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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..669cf5d --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51058 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51058) diff --git a/old/51058-0.txt b/old/51058-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index f9136e7..0000000 --- a/old/51058-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9276 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Motorcycle, Solo (Harley-Davidson Model -WLA) Technical Manual No. 9-879, by United States War Department - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Motorcycle, Solo (Harley-Davidson Model WLA) Technical Manual No. 9-879 - -Author: United States War Department - -Release Date: January 27, 2016 [EBook #51058] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARLEY-DAVIDSON MODEL WLA *** - - - - -Produced by deaurider, Brian Wilcox and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -Italic text is denoted by _underscores_, bold text is denoted =thus=. - -The original spelling, punctuation and hyphenation has been retained -except for apparent printer’s errors which have been silently corrected. - -See further notes at the end of the book. - - - - -[Illustration: Cover] - -[1]TM 9-879 - -RESTRICTED - - TECHNICAL MANUAL} WAR DEPARTMENT - No. 9-879 } Washington, 18 October 1943 - - - - -MOTORCYCLE, SOLO - -(Harley‐Davidson Model WLA) - - _Dissemination of restricted matter.—The information contained - in restricted documents, and the essential characteristics of - restricted materiel, may be given to any person known to be in the - service of the United States, and to persons of undoubted loyalty - and discretion who are cooperating in Government work, but will not - be communicated to the public or to the press except by authorized - military public relations agencies._ (_See also paragraph 18b, AR - 380-5, 28 September 1942._) - - - - -CONTENTS - - -PART ONE—VEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS - - Paragraphs Pages - - SECTION I Introduction 1-2 3-6 - - II Description and tabulated data 3-4 7-8 - - III Controls and operation 5-13 9-19 - - IV First echelon, preventive - maintenance services 14-18 20-29 - - V Lubrication 19-20 30-34 - - VI Tools and equipment stowage - on the vehicle 21-23 35-38 - - -PART TWO—ORGANIZATIONAL MAINTENANCE - - SECTION VII Maintenance allocation 24-25 39-44 - - VIII Second echelon preventive - maintenance services 26 45-59 - - IX Organization tools and equipment 27 60 - - X Trouble shooting 28-38 61-71 - - XI Engine 39-44 72-77 - - XII Engine—removal and installation 45-46 78-84 - - XIII Clutch 47-52 85-95 - - XIV Transmission 53-58 96-104 - - XV Chains and sprockets 59-66 105-114 - - XVI Fuel system 67-74 115-121 - - XVII Intake and exhaust system 75-81 122-128 - - XVIII Ignition system 82-89 129-141 - - XIX Generating system 90-95 142-148 - - XX Brake system 96-97 149-153 - - XXI Steering control 98-101 154-166 - - XXII Sheet metal and equipment 102-111 167-180 - - XXIII Battery, lighting system, horn 112-118 181-190 - - XXIV Instrument panel 119-121 191-192 - - XXV Tires, wheels, and hubs 122-127 193-199 - - REFERENCES 200 - - INDEX 201 - -[Footnote 1: For supersession of quartermaster manuals, refer to -paragraph 2.] - - - - -PART ONE—OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS - - - - -Section I - -INTRODUCTION - - - Paragraph - Scope 1 - Supersession of quartermaster manuals 2 - - -1. SCOPE. - -=a.= This technical manual[2] is published for the information and -guidance of the using arm personnel charged with the operation, -maintenance, and minor repair of this materiel. - -=b.= In addition to a description of the Harley‐Davidson motorcycle, -this manual contains technical information required for the -identification, use, and care of the materiel. The manual is divided -into two parts. Part One, section I through section VI, gives vehicle -operating instructions. Part Two, section VII through section XXV, -gives vehicle maintenance instructions to using arm personnel charged -with the responsibility of doing maintenance work within their -jurisdiction. - -=c.= In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications, -or adjustment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the -responsible ordnance service should be informed so that trained -personnel with suitable tools and equipment may be provided, or proper -instructions issued. - - -2. SUPERSESSION OF QUARTERMASTER MANUALS. - -=a.= This technical manual, together with TM 9-1879, supersedes and -replaces the following Quartermaster Corps publications: - - (1) TM 10-1175—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, - Harley‐Davidson (Model 42-WLA), 11 September 1941. - - (2) TM 10-1177—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, - Harley‐Davidson (Models 1940-41-42), 11 September 1941. - - (3) TM 10-1331—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, chain drive - Harley‐Davidson (Model 42 WLA, solo). - - (4) TM 10-1359—Instruction folder (45-A) motorcycles, solo, - Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941. - - (5) TM 10-1361—Instruction folder (45-B) motorcycle, solo, - Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941. - - -[Illustration: RA PD 315708 - -_Figure 1—Top View of Motorcycle_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 315709 - -_Figure 2—Left Side View of Motorcycle_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 315710 - -_Figure 3—Right Side View of Motorcycle_] - - -[Footnote 2: To provide operating instructions with the materiel, this -technical manual has been published in advance of complete technical -review. Any errors or omissions will be corrected by changes or, if -extensive, by an early revision.] - - - - -Section II - -DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA - - - Paragraph - Description 3 - Data 4 - - -3. DESCRIPTION (figs. 1, 2, and 3). - -=a.= This 2‐cylinder solo motorcycle is powered by a V‐type, air‐cooled -gasoline engine, operating on conventional 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle -principles. Air‐cooled engines rely upon movement of air over cylinder -and head radiating fins, and upon circulation of oil for dissipation -of excessive heat. Motorcycle engines, therefore, under no conditions -should be operated for more than 1 minute when motorcycle is not in -motion. - - -4. DATA. - -=a. Vehicle Specifications.= - - Type of engine 2‐cylinder, V‐type L‐head, air‐cooled - Cylinder bore 2-3/4 in. - Stroke 3-13/16 in. - Engine number (serial) left side engine base, - below front cylinder. - Wheelbase 4 ft 11-1/2 in. - Length over‐all 7 ft 4 in. - Width over‐all (handle bars) 3 ft 5 in. - Wheel size 18 in. - Tire size 4.00 × 18 in. - Tire type Drop center - Weight of vehicle (without rider or armament) 540 lb. - Ground clearance (skid plate) 4 in. - Kind and grade of fuel Gasoline: 72 octane or higher - High gear ratio 4.59:1 - Engine sprocket 31‐tooth - Countershaft sprocket 17‐tooth - Rear wheel sprocket 41‐tooth - -=b. Performance.= - - Maximum allowable speed 65 mph - Miles per gallon (hard surface) 35 - Cruising range (without refill) 100 miles - Fording depth (carburetor) 18 in. - -=c. Capacities.= - - Fuel capacity (left tank) 3-3/8 U.S. gal - Oil tank capacity (right tank) 1-1/8 U.S. gal - Transmission capacity 3/4 pt - - - - -Section III - -CONTROLS AND OPERATION - - Paragraph - Controls 5 - Engine prestarting instructions 6 - Starting the engine 7 - Stopping the engine 8 - Operation of vehicle 9 - Driving precautions 10 - Stopping and parking vehicle 11 - Towing vehicle to start engine 12 - Running‐in new engine (or vehicle) 13 - -[Illustration: RA PD 310201 - -_Figure 4—Controls_] - - -5. CONTROLS (fig. 4). - -=a.= Controls are peculiar to the motorcycle. The rider must become -thoroughly familiar with the location and use of all control devices -before attempting to operate vehicle. - -=b. Gasoline Valve= (figs. 5 and 6). Gasoline valve is located in left -tank, forward. Valve is closed by turning to the right, finger tight. -Turning to left opens valve. Valve is in normal operating position -when turned to left, with valve head down. Lifting valve head releases -emergency supply of fuel (3 quarts). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310202 - -_Figure 5—Fuel Supply Valve_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310293 - -_Figure 6—Fuel Supply Valve Positions_] - -=c. Throttle.= The throttle is controlled by right handle bar grip. -Turning grip inward opens throttle, turning it outward closes throttle. - -=d. Spark.= Spark is controlled by left handle bar grip. Turning grip -inward advances spark, turning it outward retards spark. - -=e. Clutch= (fig. 7). Clutch is operated by left foot (rocker‐type) -pedal, connecting with steel cable, which actuates clutch release -lever. Pedal is located on left side of motorcycle above footboard. -Forward downward (toe) position of pedal engages clutch. Rear downward -(heel) position of pedal disengages clutch. Foot pedal provided with -friction device to retain it in either engaged or disengaged position. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310204 - -_Figure 7—Clutch Pedal Positions_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310205 - -_Figure 8—Gear Shifter Lever Positions_] - -=f. Service Brake (Rear Wheel).= Foot pedal is located on right side -of motorcycle at forward end of footboard. - -=g. Auxiliary Brake (Front Wheel).= Auxiliary brake is operated by -hand lever located on left handle bar. It is used in conjunction with -service brake, as an emergency brake, or for holding vehicle while -starting engine on grade. CAUTION: _Brake is to be applied lightly and -cautiously on wet and slippery roads._ - -=h. Gear Shifter= (fig. 8). Shifter lever is located on left tank, -forward position, and operates within a guide. Shifter lever guide is -notched for positive location of gears and each position is identified, -front to rear: “1”—low gear; “N”—neutral; “2”—second gear; “3”—direct -high gear. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310206 - -_Figure 9—Carburetor Choke Lever Positions_] - -=i. Steering Damper.= Steering damper is an adjustable friction -device to damper turning action of forks, steady front wheel, and -prevent wobble in rough terrain or at high speeds, and is located on -top of steering head in center of handle bars. Move handle to right to -apply desired friction. - -=j. Foot Starter Crank= (fig. 1). The foot starter crank is located -on right side of motorcycle. Gear shifter lever must be in neutral -position, and clutch foot pedal in forward engaged position, before -using foot starter crank. Starter crank normally is in upward position. -Straddle motorcycle, place right foot on starter crank, and shift -weight of body for forceful downward crank operation to start engine. - -=k. Ignition and Light Switch.= Earlier models are provided -with switch lock, later models are nonlocking. Switch is off in -straight‐forward position. First position to right is for engine -ignition only. Second position to right is for ignition and blackout -lights. To use vehicle service lights, depress button to turn switch to -third right position. - -=l. Instrument Panel Signal Lights.= Instead of an ammeter and oil -pressure gage, signal lights indicate generator charging, and engine -oil pressure. - -(1) Green light is located on left side of instrument panel. When -engine is running, and light is out, it indicates generator is charging. - -(2) Red light is located on right side of instrument panel. When engine -is running, and light is out, it indicates engine oil is circulating. - -=m. Carburetor Choke= (fig. 9). Choke lever is in full prime position -when all the way up, and in normal running position when all the way -down. - - -6. ENGINE PRESTARTING INSTRUCTIONS. - -=a.= Before the engine is started, perform the Before‐operation Service -outlined in paragraph 15. Special care must be taken during starting -and warming‐up period to avoid unnecessary engine wear. - -=b.= The rider must acquire correct motorcycle engine starting habits, -and learn to do the job the quickest, easiest, and most dependable way. -The following pointers will be helpful to the beginner as well as to a -seasoned rider: - -(1) Mount (straddle) motorcycle to obtain firm grip on handle bars. - -(2) Leave side stand (jiffy stand) outward to support vehicle while -operating foot starter crank with right foot. - -(3) Engine starting will be benefited by use of front wheel, -hand‐operated brake, to prevent vehicle from rolling or shifting during -starting kicks. This is especially helpful if vehicle is parked on an -incline or on soft, uneven surface. - -=c.= The procedure outlined below is preparatory to starting either -cold, warm, or hot engine: - -(1) Place gear shifter lever in “N” (neutral) position (fig. 8). - -(2) See that gasoline shut‐off valve is open (fig. 5). - -(3) Engage clutch (fig. 7). - -(4) Spark control (left) grip must be turned inward to fully advanced -position, or nearly so. - -(5) Foot starter crank may travel 1/2 way downward before starting -engine. See that a full vigorous starter stroke is used. A vigorous -kick, using a full swing (not a jab) of right leg and hip, is correct -engine starting practice. - - -7. STARTING THE ENGINE. - -=a.= Procedure for starting cold, warm, or hot motorcycle engines -differs. Therefore, following instructions are used with paragraph 6 c -to cover correct procedure in all three cases. - -=b. Starting Cold Engine.= When vehicle has not been operated for -some time, and engine is normally cold, follow progressive procedure -for easiest starting. - -(1) Set carburetor choke lever in full upward (closed) position. - -(2) Open throttle wide by turning right grip inward as far as it will -go. - -(3) Prime cylinders by operating foot starter crank one or two strokes. - -(4) Set carburetor choke lever in 1/4 to 1/2 closed position for mild -weather starting: 3/4 closed (or leave fully choked) for extremely cold -weather starting. CAUTION: _It is only in extremely cold weather -that engine may start best with choke fully closed, and even then it -will have to be moved from this position immediately after engine is -started._ - -(5) Set throttle (right) grip to slightly open position. - -(6) Turn ignition switch on, first right position. - -(7) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank. - -(8) When engine starts, set throttle for moderate idling speed for -warming up, or until ready to set vehicle in motion. Do not race engine -unnecessarily. - -(9) After engine warms up, and misfires due to an overrich mixture, -gradually move choke lever downward. After engine has thoroughly warmed -up, move choke lever to fully open (downward) position. - -=c. Starting Warm Engine.= Following instructions apply to engine -when halfway between hot and cold. With engine in this condition, -carburetor choking must be handled cautiously. - -(1) Lift choke lever to first upward position from normal (1/4 closed). - -(2) Set throttle (right) grip to fully closed (outward) position. - -(3) Operate foot starter crank one or two strokes. - -(4) Set throttle grip to between 1/4 and 1/3 open position. - -(5) Turn ignition switch on. - -(6) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank. - -(7) Soon after engine starts, choke lever must be moved to fully open -(downward) position. - -(8) Turn throttle grip to control idling speed of engine. - -=d. Starting Hot Engine.= If engine has been shut off for only a -brief period and is near normal operating temperature, it is not -necessary to use carburetor choke lever. With some engines, depending -upon carburetor condition and adjustment, hot starting is easier and -more dependable if foot starter crank is operated one stroke before -turning ignition switch on. - -(1) Close throttle grip by turning fully outward. - -(2) Turn ignition switch on. - -(3) Operate foot starter crank to start engine. - -(4) When hot engine does not start readily after two or three strokes -of the foot starter crank, it is usually due to an overrich (flooded) -condition, and the proper procedure then is to open throttle wide so -that more air can enter: close throttle quickly after engine starts. -CAUTION: _After engine has warmed up to a normal operating temperature, -do not allow engine to stand idling for longer than a 1 minute -interval._ - -=e. Starting Engine with Dead Battery.= See paragraph 12. - -=f. Behavior of Instrument Panel Signal Lights.= Function of -generator (green) signal light depends upon action of cut‐out -relay; engine oil pressure (red) signal light depends upon action -of oil feed pump. Rider must, therefore, thoroughly understand -operating characteristics of both signal lights to judge condition of -generator‐battery circuit and pressure in engine oil circulating system. - -(1) When ignition light switch is turned to first (right) position, -preparatory to starting engine, both green and red signal lights should -go on. CAUTION: _When switch is turned on, immediately after engine has -been primed by cranking, red (oil pressure) signal light may not light -at once, but will light after a few seconds, due to oil pressure built -up by cranking, and is most likely to be noticed in cold weather._ - -(2) With engine started and running at medium idling speed, both signal -lights should go off. CAUTION: _Should oil pressure (red) signal light -fail to go off at speeds above idling, conditions must be brought to -attention of unit mechanic._ - -(3) At slow idle speed, or under approximately 20 miles per hour road -speed (in high gear), generator (green) signal light will normally -flash on and off, because at that speed generator voltage output is -very low and unsteady. CAUTION: _Should generator (green) signal -light fail to go off at speed above approximately 20 miles per hour, -generator is either not charging at all, or its current output is not -up to normal, and generator should be given attention at once._ - - -8. STOPPING THE ENGINE. - -=a.= Stop engine only by turning ignition and light switch to off -(straight‐ahead) position, to prevent discharge of battery through -spark coil primary circuit. - - -9. OPERATION OF VEHICLE. - -=a. Starting on Level Ground.= The engine having been warmed up and -checked for satisfactory operation, the vehicle (with operator in -riding position) is put in motion as follows: - -(1) Transfer body weight to right leg. - -(2) Fold back side stand (jiffy stand). - -(3) Disengage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with heel of left -foot. - -(4) Shift gear shifter lever into “1” (low) gear position. - -(5) Slowly engage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with toe of -left foot. - -(6) When clutch starts to “take hold,” open throttle sufficiently to -maintain engine speed. - -(7) Accelerate gradually to between 12 and 15 miles per hour in low -gear. - -(8) Close throttle quickly. - -(9) Disengage clutch. - -(10) Shift through “N” (neutral) position into “2” (second) gear. - -(11) Reengage clutch and accelerate to about 25 miles per hour. - -(12) Close throttle quickly. - -(13) Disengage clutch. - -(14) Shift into “3” (high) gear. - -(15) Reengage clutch and accelerate to desired speed. - -=b. Starting on Uneven or Soft Ground.= - -(1) If standing on an incline or in loose, heavy ground, more engine -power will be required to start vehicle without stalling engine. - -(2) It may be necessary to keep vehicle from rolling by keeping -pressure on front brake hand lever. Brake pressure is released after -vehicle starts in forward motion. - -(3) Open throttle and engage clutch at same time to provide power -needed for starting, without racing engine unnecessarily. - -(4) Motorcycle starts should be made without excessive application of -power, with consequent unnecessary spinning of rear wheel. - - -10. DRIVING PRECAUTIONS. - -=a.= Practice will enable a rider to judge at what rate of speed the -motorcycle should be moving before he shifts from a lower to higher -gear, and engine should never be permitted to labor unduly, when a -shift of gears, higher to lower, would improve operation. - -(1) Operator must not look down at gear shifter when shifting gears, -but keep his eyes on the road ahead. Do not ride the clutch. The -operator’s foot should rest on clutch foot pedal only when he is -operating it. When shifting gears, disengage clutch fully to avoid gear -damage and shifting difficulties. CAUTION: _Many transmissions are -ruined through failure to disengage clutch fully when shifting gears._ - -=b. Braking.= Rear wheel service brake must be in such condition that -medium‐hard application will cause rear wheel to lock. Application of -service brake should be gradual, with just enough force to accomplish -desired result. - -(1) Auxiliary front wheel brake, when used in conjunction with service -brake, must be applied with caution, especially on wet, muddy, or -slippery roads. - -(2) After passing through water, the brakes should be set slightly, and -the vehicle operated for a short distance, until sufficient heat has -been generated to dry the brakes. - -=c. Avoid Low Gear Operation.= Always operate vehicle in highest gear -possible, consistent with tactical situation, speed required, power -required, and kind and nature of road substance, to prevent overheating -of engine. - -=d. High Speed Tips.= Only experienced riders should indulge in -high‐speed riding. A motorcycle operated for long distances at high -speed must be given closer than ordinary attention to avoid serious -engine overheating with consequent damage. For better motorcycle -service, apply the following suggestions: - -(1) Develop habit of frequently snapping throttle shut for an instant -when running at high speed. This draws additional lubrication to piston -and cylinder and assists in cooling engine. - -(2) In cool weather, operate engine slowly until it is thoroughly -warmed up, to avoid damage to pistons, rings, cylinders, and other -parts before oil is warm enough to circulate freely. - -(3) If handle bar windshield and leg shields are used, engine is -more likely to overheat with continued high‐speed riding. Watch this -carefully. - -(4) Adjust “steering damper” for best control of motorcycle consistent -with riding speed and condition and nature of road. - - -11. STOPPING AND PARKING VEHICLE. - -=a. Stopping Vehicle.= Rider will make a “restart” easier and quicker -if he will apply the following instructions upon stopping vehicle: - -(1) Close throttle. - -(2) Disengage clutch. - -(3) Apply brake (or brakes) to slow vehicle without sliding rear tire. - -(4) Just before coming to a complete stop, shift into “N” (neutral) -position and engage clutch. CAUTION: _If immediate restart is to be -made, shift into “1” (low) gear and allow clutch foot pedal to remain -in disengaged position. (Rider will be mounted on motorcycle with -engine running.)_ - -(5) Continue brake application to complete stop. - -(6) After vehicle slows to point where it can no longer be balanced by -steering, place left foot on ground to maintain balance until right -foot can be removed from brake operating pedal. CAUTION: _Do not idle -engine longer than 1 minute._ - -(7) Stop engine by turning ignition switch off. - -=b. Parking Vehicle.= - -(1) Lean motorcycle on side (jiffy) stand. - -(2) Shift into “1” (low) gear. - -(3) Engage clutch so vehicle cannot roll. - -(4) Shut off gasoline supply by turning valve (to right) finger‐tight -against its seat. - - -12. TOWING VEHICLE TO START ENGINE. - -=a.= In emergencies when engine cannot be started with foot starter -crank, it can be started by towing the motorcycle. - -(1) Set gear shifter lever in “2” (second) gear position. - -(2) Disengage clutch. - -(3) Choke carburetor. - -(4) Turn ignition switch on. - -(5) After momentum of the towed motorcycle reaches between 10 and 15 -miles per hour, engage clutch, and continue procedure until engine -starts. - -=b. Engine Starting with Dead Battery.= Emergency engine starting -with dead battery can be effected by making use of freshly charged -battery, or by towing as outlined above. If vehicle with dead battery -is to be towed for engine starting, proceed as follows: - -(1) Disconnect battery negative wire from ground on right side of -motorcycle. - -(2) Tow motorcycle for engine starting. - -(3) After engine is started, reconnect battery ground wire to frame to -prevent damage to electrical system. - - -13. RUNNING‐IN NEW ENGINE (OR VEHICLE). - -=a.= A new motorcycle engine or newly overhauled engine must be given -proper “break‐in” consideration for at least the first 1,000 to 1,200 -miles of service. Failure to do this may result in damage that will put -engine out of active service within a short period of time. - -=b.= At the first 250 miles, check front and rear drive chains to make -sure they are receiving required amount of oil for ample lubrication. -If necessary, have chain oilers adjusted by unit mechanic. Drive chains -must be inspected for correct adjustment, and be given attention by -unit mechanic as needed. - -=c.= At first 500 miles, drain oil tank and refill with fresh oil. -Check front and rear chains (step b above). Thereafter, follow -instructions in Maintenance Operation section. - -=d.= After a new motorcycle has been run 500 to 1,000 miles it needs -to be thoroughly checked over and any loose screws and nuts tightened. -Particular attention must be given engine and transmission mounting -bolts and nuts, and to rear wheel mounting socket screws. - -=e.= Following pointers must be observed when running‐in new engine or -newly overhauled engine: - -(1) Do not exceed 30 miles per hour during first 100 miles. - -(2) Do not exceed 35 miles per hour during next 200 miles. - -(3) Do not exceed 40 miles per hour during next 400 miles. - -(4) Do not exceed 50 miles per hour during next 500 miles. - -(5) Avoid use of low gears during break‐in operation as much as -possible. - - - - -Section IV - -FIRST ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES - - Paragraph - Purpose 14 - Before‐operation service 15 - During‐operation service 16 - At‐halt service 17 - After‐operation and weekly service 18 - - -14. PURPOSE. - -=a.= To insure mechanical efficiency it is necessary that the vehicle -be systematically inspected at intervals each day it is operated and -weekly, so that defects may be discovered and corrected before they -result in serious damage or failure. Certain scheduled maintenance -services will be performed at these designated intervals. The services -set forth in this section are those performed by driver or crew before -operation, during operation, at halt, after operation, and weekly. - -=b.= Driver preventive maintenance services are listed on the back of -“Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,” W.D. -Form No. 48, to cover vehicles of all types and models. Items peculiar -to specific vehicles, but not listed on W.D. Form No. 48, are covered -in manual procedures under the items to which they are related. Certain -items listed on the form that do not pertain to the vehicle involved -are eliminated from the procedures as written into the manual. Every -organization must thoroughly school each driver in performing the -maintenance procedures set forth in manuals, whether or not they are -listed specifically on W.D. Form No. 48. - -=c.= The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this vehicle -are expanded in this manual to provide specific procedures for -accomplishment of the inspections and services. These services are -arranged to facilitate inspection and conserve the time of the driver, -and are not necessarily in the same numerical order as shown on W.D. -Form No. 48. The item numbers, however, are identical with those shown -on that form. - -=d.= The general inspection of each item applies also to any supporting -member or connection, and generally includes a check to see whether the -item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or excessively -worn. - -(1) The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual -inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or -serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by -the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken -or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or -cut. - -(2) The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” -is usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its -normal assembled position in the vehicle. - -(3) The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually -an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for -looseness. Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock -washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly. - -(4) “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn close to, or -beyond, serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not -replaced before the next scheduled inspection. - -=e.= Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics beyond -the scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the earliest -opportunity to the designated individual in authority. - - -15. BEFORE‐OPERATION SERVICE. - -=a.= This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to see -that the vehicle has not been tampered with, or sabotaged since the -After‐operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions may -have rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation and it is the duty of -the driver to determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to -carry out any mission to which it is assigned. This operation will not -be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations. - -=b. Procedures.= Before‐operation Service consists of inspecting -items listed below according to the procedure described, and correcting -or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of the service, results -should be reported promptly to the designated individual in authority. - -(1) ITEM 1, TAMPERING AND DAMAGE. Look for any injury to vehicle in -general, its accessories or equipment, that may have been caused by -tampering, sabotage, collision, falling debris, or shell fire since -parking vehicle. Look for loosened or damaged accessories, loose fuel -or oil lines, or any disconnected linkage. - -(2) ITEM 3, FUEL AND OIL. Inspect tanks for fuel and oil levels, add -oil and fuel as necessary. Any appreciable change in levels since -performing After‐operation Service should be investigated and reported -to designated authority. - -(3) ITEM 4, ACCESSORIES AND DRIVES. Examine all accessories such -as carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose -connections, loose mountings, or leaks. Examine rear chain (final -drive) for free up‐and‐down movement (slack), midway between sprockets. -Total up‐and‐down movement must not be more than 1 inch, nor less than -1/2 inch. Inspect rear chain for adequate lubrication. - -(4) ITEM 6, LEAKS, GENERAL. Examine vehicle and ground under vehicle -for indications of fuel or oil leaks. Normally a few drops of waste oil -from chains may be expected to drop from skid plate. - -(5) ITEM 11, GLASS. Clean glass on instruments; clean and adjust rear -view mirror; inspect glass for breakage. - -(6) ITEM 12, LAMPS. If tactical situation permits, observe whether -blackout and service lights operate with switch in its respective -positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that lights are -secure, and that lenses are clean and not broken. Observe whether both -filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch on left -handle bar is moved to its respective positions. - -(7) ITEM 13, WHEELS, AXLE NUTS AND SCREWS. Examine rear wheel mounting -socket screws, front and rear axle nuts, and front fork rocker stud -nuts for tightness. Observe rear chain adjusting screws for secure -locking. Inspect spokes for good condition and tightness. - -(8) ITEM 14, TIRES. Examine tires for cuts or imbedded objects in -treads or carcass. If time permits, check air pressure, which should be -18 pounds front, and 20 pounds rear (tires cold). Inspect valve caps -for presence and secure mounting. - -(9) ITEM 15, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSION. Examine front fork springs for -secure mounting and good condition. Push down rear of saddle to test -for full action of saddle post spring. - -(10) ITEM 16, STEERING AND HANDLE BAR CONTROLS. Test steering head -bearing adjustment by exerting strong upward pull at handle bar grips, -and observing whether or not there is any noticeable play in bearing. -Operate steering damper lever and observe that damper is compressed -before lever reaches right‐side position, and is fully released with -lever in left‐side position. Test handle bar grip controls for full, -free action; also test for complete opening and closing of throttle, -and full advance and retard of timer. - -(11) ITEM 17, FENDERS (MUDGUARDS), LUGGAGE CARRIER, SAFETY GUARDS, AND -STANDS. Examine these items for good condition and secure mounting. - -(12) ITEM 21, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. Inspect tools and equipment for -presence, serviceability, and proper stowage. (See tool list in par. -21.) - -(13) ITEM 7, ENGINE WARM‐UP. Start engine, noting any tendency toward -hard starting, or improper action of foot starter crank. Set throttle -to moderate idle speed. Listen for unusual noises. Watch instrument -indications and engine performance, such as misfiring. CAUTION: _Do not -idle engine longer than 1 minute with vehicle standing_. - -(14) ITEM 8, CHOKE. During idling of engine, reset choke as required to -prevent excessive choking and dilution of engine oil. - -(15) ITEM 9, INSTRUMENTS. When switch is turned on and engine is idling -at moderate speed both red light (indicating oil pressure) and green -light (indicating generator action) should be out. At lower operating -speeds generator‐indicating light may flicker. CAUTION: _Do not operate -engine with red light on (no oil pressure)_. - -(16) ITEM 10, HORN. Tactical situation permitting, test horn. - -(17) ITEM 22, ENGINE OPERATION. Engine should idle smoothly. Accelerate -and decelerate, listening for any unusual noises that may indicate -compression or exhaust leaks, worn, damaged, loose, or inadequately -lubricated engine parts, or accessories. Note any unusual smoke from -exhaust. - -(18) ITEM 23, DRIVER’S PERMIT, ACCIDENT REPORT FORM NO. 26, AND VEHICLE -MANUAL. These items must be present on vehicle and safely stowed. - -(19) ITEM 25, DURING‐OPERATION SERVICE. The During‐operation Service -should start immediately after vehicle is put in motion, in the nature -of a road test. - - -16. DURING‐OPERATION SERVICE. - -=a.= While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as rattles, -knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Be alert to detect -any odor of overheated components or units such as generator, brakes, -or clutch, fuel vapor from a leak in fuel system, exhaust gas, or other -signs of trouble. Any time the brakes are used, gears shifted, or -vehicle turned, consider this a test and notice any unsatisfactory or -unusual performance. Watch the instruments constantly. Notice promptly -any unusual instrument indication that may signify possible trouble in -system to which the instrument applies. - -=b. Procedures.= During‐operation Service consists of observing -items listed below according to the procedures following each item, -and investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice minor -deficiencies to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity, -usually at next scheduled halt. - -(1) ITEM 27, FOOT AND HAND BRAKES. The foot brake should operate -smoothly and effectively, leaving reserve pedal travel of 1 inch. -Normal free play before operation is 1 inch. Test hand brake lever for -free play, which should be 1/4 of total handle travel. Test for ease and -smoothness of operation. - -(2) ITEM 28, CLUTCH. Inspect clutch for disengagement at about 1/2 pedal -travel. Clutch should not chatter, squeal, or slip. - -(3) ITEM 29, TRANSMISSION. Gears should shift smoothly, operate -quietly, and not jump out of mesh during operation. If transmission -jumps out of mesh in any gear, this indicates need of shifter control -adjustment. - -(4) ITEM 31, ENGINE AND CONTROLS. Be alert for deficiency in engine -performance such as lack of usual power, misfiring, unusual noise, -stalling, indication of engine overheating, or unusual exhaust smoke. -Notice whether engine responds to controls satisfactorily, whether -controls appear to be in proper adjustment and are sufficiently tight. - -(5) ITEM 32, INSTRUMENTS. Observe instruments for indication of normal -functioning of systems to which they apply. - -(_a_) _Speedometer and Odometer._ Speedometer should indicate vehicle -speed without excessive noise or fluctuation. Odometer should record -trip and total mileage. - -(_b_) _Oil Pressure Signal Light._ Red light should be off during -operation. If light goes on, stop vehicle and investigate for oil -pressure failure. - -(_c_) _Generator Signal Light._ Green light should be off above 20 -miles per hour. Battery discharge is indicated by green light being on. - -(6) ITEM 33, STEERING. Adjust steering damper to desired steering -friction. Observe vehicle steering for wander, shimmy, leading to one -side, or wheel hop. - -(7) ITEM 34, RUNNING GEAR. Listen for any unusual noises from wheels, -axles, or suspension parts that might indicate looseness or damage. - -(8) ITEM 35, CHASSIS. Be alert for noises that might indicate loose -accessories, controls, attachments, or equipment. - - -17. AT‐HALT SERVICE. - -=a.= At‐halt Service may be regarded as minimum maintenance procedures -and should be performed under all tactical conditions, even though more -extensive maintenance services must be slighted or omitted altogether. - -=b. Procedures.= At‐halt Service consists of investigating any -deficiencies noted during operation, inspecting items listed below -according to the procedures following the items, and correcting any -deficiencies found. Deficiencies not corrected should be reported -promptly to the designated individual in authority. - -(1) ITEM 38, FUEL AND OIL. Replenish fuel and oil as may be required to -reach next refilling point. CAUTION: _Left tank is for fuel; right tank -is for oil. Filler caps should not be interchanged, as only fuel tank -cap is vented._ - -(2) ITEM 39, TEMPERATURES. Hand‐feel wheel hubs and brake drums for -overheating. - -(3) ITEM 40, VENTS. Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear -chain oil feed pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and -rear brake side covers are open and clean. - -(4) ITEM 42, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSIONS. Look for broken springs in fork. - -(5) ITEM 43, STEERING. Investigate any difficulty developed during -riding. - -(6) ITEM 44, WHEELS AND MOUNTING SCREWS. Inspect wheels for broken, -bent, or loose spokes. Also, look for loose axle nuts or rear wheel -mounting screws. Inspect wheel rims for good condition. - -(7) ITEM 45, TIRES. Examine tires for low pressure or damage. Remove -foreign matter from tire treads; inspect for cuts. - -(8) ITEM 46, LEAKS, GENERAL. Inspect vehicle for indication of fuel, -oil, or battery leaks. - -(9) ITEM 47, ACCESSORIES AND CHAIN. Examine accessories for loose -connections, loose mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain -for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing -connecting link spring clips. Inspect chain for adequate lubrication. - -(10) ITEM 48, AIR CLEANER. Air cleaner must be secure, with air -passages in good condition and clean. When operating under extremely -dusty or sandy conditions, inspect air cleaner frequently and service -as required. - -(11) ITEM 49, FENDERS (MUDGUARDS), LUGGAGE CARRIER, SAFETY GUARDS, AND -STANDS. Inspect these items for looseness or damage. - -(12) ITEM 52, APPEARANCE AND GLASS. Clean windshield, rear view mirror, -and light lenses; inspect for good condition, secure attachment, and -broken glass. - - -18. AFTER‐OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICE. - -=a.= After‐operation Service is particularly important, because at this -time the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies that -may have developed, and corrects those he is permitted to handle. He -should report promptly, to the designated individual in authority, the -results of his inspection. If this schedule is performed thoroughly, -the vehicle should be ready to roll again on a moment’s notice. The -Before‐operation Service, with a few exceptions, is then necessary -only to ascertain whether the vehicle is in the same condition in -which it was left upon completion of the After‐operation Service. The -After‐operation Service should never be entirely omitted, even in -extreme tactical situations, but may be reduced to the bare fundamental -services outlined for the At‐halt Service, if necessary. - -=b. Procedures.= When performing the After‐operation Service, the -driver must remember and consider any irregularities noticed during -the day in the Before‐operation. During‐operation, and At‐halt -Services. The After‐operation Service consists of inspecting and -servicing the following items. Those items of the After‐operation -Services that are marked with an asterisk (*) require additional Weekly -services, the procedures for which are indicated in step (_b_) of each -applicable item. - -(1) ITEM 54, FUEL AND OIL. Fill fuel and oil tanks; fill oil tank -within 1 inch of top; be sure to put oil in right tank and fuel in left -tank; do not interchange caps. CAUTION: _When operating under extremely -dusty conditions, drain engine oil tank and refill with fresh oil as -frequently as excessive contamination of the oil occurs_. - -(2) ITEM 55, ENGINE OPERATION. Test for satisfactory engine idle -without stalling. Accelerate and decelerate engine, noting any tendency -to miss or backfire, unusual noises, or vibration that may indicate -worn parts, loose mounting, incorrect fuel mixture, or faulty ignition. -Investigate any unsatisfactory engine operating characteristics noted -during operation. Learn to recognize noise caused by loose primary -(front) drive chain. Slack in excess of 1/2 inch total up‐and‐down -motion can cause excessive noise which sounds like engine knock. Remove -inspection cover for examination of chain. - -(3) ITEM 57, HORN. If tactical situation permits, test horn. - -(4) ITEM 59, LIGHTS. If tactical situation permits, observe whether -blackout and service lights operate with switch in its respective -positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that lights are -secure, and lenses clean and not broken. Observe whether both filaments -of service headlight operate when dimmer switch on left handle bar is -moved to its respective positions. - -(5) ITEM 56, INSTRUMENTS. Before stopping engine, inspect instruments -to see that indicator lights are still out. Stop engine. After 30 -seconds, turn on switch to see that oil pressure and generator signal -lights turn on. CAUTION: _Be sure to turn off ignition switch after -this test_. - -(6) ITEM 58, GLASS. Clean rear view mirror, windshield, instrument, and -light glass. Examine for secure mounting and breakage. - -(7) ITEM 62, *BATTERY. - -(_a_) Inspect battery carrier for good condition and secure mounting. -Inspect electrolyte level (should be 5/16 inch above plates). Inspect -for any signs of leakage of electrolyte indicating battery has been -overfilled, poorly sealed, or damaged. CAUTION: _Do not add water -unless actually needed_. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Clean dirt from top of battery, remove battery caps, -bring electrolyte level to 5/16 inch above plates, using clean, -drinkable water. Clean terminals or posts if corroded; be sure felt -washers are on terminals and properly oiled; tighten terminal bolts -cautiously, if loose. Clean and paint battery carrier if corroded. - -(8) ITEM 63, *ACCESSORIES AND CHAIN. - -(_a_) Inspect carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay -for loose connections, mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain -for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing -connecting link spring clips. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free -up‐and‐down movement (slack) midway between sprockets; maximum total -allowable deflection is 1 inch, minimum, 1/2 inch. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Tighten any accessory connections found loose. Wipe -excess dirt from rear chain. Check front chain for adjustment, and -inspect for proper lubrication. - -(9) ITEM 65, *AIR CLEANER. - -(_a_) Examine oil cup for excessive dirt and correct oil level. If air -cleaner is excessively dirty, clean elements in dry‐cleaning solvent, -refill cup with fresh oil. Dip elements in oil in oil cup, replacing -elements and attaching oil cup immediately. If gaskets are damaged, -replace. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be necessary -to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. Inspect hose -for leaks. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Inspect air cleaner for proper oil level and -excessively dirty oil. Clean and service air cleaner, tighten mounting -and hose clamps. NOTE: _Early‐type, round air cleaner does not have -removable filter elements. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash -element._ - -(10) ITEM 66, *FUEL FILTER (GASOLINE STRAINER). - -(_a_) Clean cap and screen of fuel filter. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Clean cap and screen of fuel filter, remove carburetor -bowl drain plug, and drain off water and dirt. Be sure to replace plug, -being careful to avoid cross threading. - -(11) ITEM 67, ENGINE CONTROLS. Examine throttle and spark controls -for damage to wires or for disconnected linkage. Observe for lack of -lubrication. - -(12) ITEM 68, *TIRES. - -(_a_) Remove foreign matter such as nails, glass, or stones from tire -treads. Inspect tires for abnormal tread wear, cuts, or bruises: also -for presence and tightness of valve caps. Inflate tires to 18 pounds -front, 20 pounds rear, with tires cool. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Replace badly worn or otherwise unserviceable tires. - -(13) ITEM 69, *SPRINGS AND SUSPENSION. - -(_a_) Inspect front fork for broken or sagged springs, loose bolts, -studs, and nuts. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Tighten wheel axle nuts and rear brake sleeve nut. Also -tighten rear wheel mounting socket screws very securely. - -(14) ITEM 70, STEERING. Inspect steering head for proper adjustment of -bearings. Examine steering damper for correct adjustment. - -(15) ITEM 72, *VENTS. - -(_a_) Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil -supply pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake -side covers are open and clean. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Clean crankcase breather outlet, rear chain oil supply -pipe, and grease drains in front and rear brake side covers. - -(16) ITEM 73, LEAKS, GENERAL. Look around mechanism and beneath vehicle -for indication of fuel, oil, and grease leaks. Examine around brake -drums for evidence of grease in drums or on linings. Normally a few -drops of oil may be expected to drip from skid plate. - -(17) ITEM 74, GEAR OIL LEVELS. Inspect transmission oil level with -vehicle standing on rear stand (not jiffy stand); refill, if required, -to level of filler plug opening with engine oil. CAUTION: _Do not use -gear oil_. - -(18) ITEM 76, FENDERS (MUDGUARDS), LUGGAGE CARRIER, SAFETY GUARDS, AND -STANDS. Examine these items for good condition and secure mounting. - -(19) ITEM 82, *TIGHTEN. - -(_a_) Inspect all frame and assembly nuts, bolts, and cap screws for -tightness. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Tighten all vehicle assembly or mounting nuts. Driver -is cautioned not to tamper with or tighten screws or nuts about the -circuit breaker, as doing so may disturb ignition timing. - -(20) ITEM 83, *LUBRICATE AS NEEDED. - -(_a_) Lubricate all parts where inspection reveals need for -lubrication: wipe all dirt from fittings before applying lubricant. -Report any missing fittings. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ When vehicle has been driven a sufficient number -of miles so that it is due for a regularly scheduled lubrication, -lubricate according to Lubrication Guide in manual and current -lubrication directives. Refrain from overlubricating wheel bearings, -front brake side cover bushing, and front and rear brake operating -lever camshafts. - -(21) ITEM 84, *CLEAN ENGINE AND VEHICLE. - -(_a_) Clean dirt and trash from vehicle and remove excess grease. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Wash vehicle if possible. If not, wipe off thoroughly. -Do not rub lustreless paint enough to cause shine. If vehicle is washed -in a stream, care should be taken that water or dirt does not get -into bearings, breather valve, or brakes. CAUTION: _It is extremely -important that high‐pressure streams or steam should not be directed -against wheel hubs, brakes, carburetor, air cleaner, or electrical -units_. - -(12) ITEM 64, *ELECTRICAL WIRING. - -(_a_) Inspect all ignition wiring to see that it is securely connected, -clean, and not damaged. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Inspect all wiring to see that it is securely connected -and supported, that insulation is not cracked or chafed, that loom, -shielding, and condensers are in good condition and securely attached. -Clean as required. Tighten any loose connections carefully. Radio -shielding or bonding defects, except cleaning or tightening, must be -referred to signal corps personnel. - -(23) ITEM 85, *TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. - -(_a_) See that all tools and equipment assigned to vehicle are present, -in good condition, and properly stowed. - -(_b_) _Weekly._ Check tools and equipment assigned to vehicle with -vehicle stowage list (par. 21) to see that they are present. Inspect -tools for good condition and proper stowage. Report missing or -unserviceable items to designated authority. - - - - -Section V - -LUBRICATION - - Paragraph - Introduction 19 - Lubrication guide 20 - - -19. INTRODUCTION. - -=a.= Lubrication is an essential part of preventive maintenance, -determining to a great extent serviceability of parts and assemblies. - - -=20. LUBRICATION GUIDE= (fig. 10). - -=a. General.= Lubrication instructions for this materiel are -consolidated in a Lubrication Guide (fig. 10). These specify the points -to be lubricated, the periods of lubrication, and the lubricant to be -used. Intervals indicated on the guide are for normal service. For -extreme conditions, high speed, heat, mud, snow, rough roads, dust, -etc., change engine oil and lubricate more frequently. In addition to -the items on the guide, brake, gear shifter, clutch control linkage, -and hinges must be lubricated at frequent intervals. - -=b. Supplies.= In the field it may not be possible to supply a -complete assortment of lubricants called for by the Lubrication Guide -to meet the recommendations. It will be necessary to make the best use -of those available, subject to inspection by the officer concerned, in -consultation with responsible ordnance personnel. - -=c. Lubrication Notes.= The following notes apply to the Lubrication -Guide (fig. 10). All note references in the guide itself are to the -steps below having the corresponding number: - -(1) BRAKE FITTINGS. Exercise caution when lubricating brake operating -cams and front brake cover bushing, as excess grease working out of -these bearings is likely to get onto brake lining, reducing brake -efficiency. CAUTION: _When using air‐operated grease gun, make sure not -to overlubricate brake fittings_. - -(2) BRAKE HAND LEVER OILCAN POINTS. Oil hand lever fittings and “oiler” -mounted on cable housing. Oil front brake control cable at ends of -control cable housing. - -(3) GENERATOR COMMUTATOR END BEARING. Hand‐pack with general purpose -grease, No. 2, at temperatures above zero. Below zero, use lighter -grease. This operation requires removal of generator end cover. Bearing -outer grease retainer must be loosened and swung aside for access to -bearing. If not convenient to grease bearing at specified intervals, at -least lubricate with a few drops of engine oil applied to hole in outer -grease retainer. Do not overlubricate. CAUTION: _Generator regulating -brush plate must not be shifted while bearing outer grease retainer -is loose (par. 92). Generator drive end bearing requires no attention, -since it is lubricated by oil circulating through engine._ - -[Illustration: KEY - - +-------------------------------------+ - | LUBRICANTS | - | OE—OIL, ENGINE (CRANKCASE GRADE) | - | CG—GREASE, GENERAL PURPOSE | - | No. 1 (ABOVE +32°) | - | No. 1 OR No. 0 (+32° TO +10°) | - | No. 0 (BELOW +10°) | - | WB—GREASE, GENERAL PURPOSE (No. 2) | - +-------------------------------------+ - - +--------------------------+ - | INTERVALS | - | 1/4—250 MILES | - | 1/2—500 MILES | - | 1—1000 MILES | - | 6—6000 MILES | - | * L—SPECIAL LUBRICATION | - +--------------------------+ - | CHECK DAILY | - | ----------- | - | Air Cleaner | - | Engine Oil Tank | - +--------------------------+ - -TABLE OF CAPACITIES WITH RECOMMENDATIONS AT TEMPERATURES SHOWN - - +--------------+----------+------------+--------------+------------+ - | UNIT | CAPACITY | ABOVE +32° | +32° TO +10° | BELOW +10° | - +--------------+----------+------------+--------------+------------+ - | OIL TANK | 1 GALLON | OE | OE | OE | - | | | S.A.E. 50 | S.A.E. 30 | S.A.E. 10 | - +--------------+----------+------------+--------------+------------+ - | TRANSMISSION | 3/4 pint | OE | OE | OE | - | | | S.A.E. 50 | S.A.E. 30 | S.A.E. 10 | - +--------------+----------+------------+--------------+------------+ - -RA PD 310207 - -_Figure 10_—_Lubrication Guide_] - -(4) SPARK AND THROTTLE CONTROL GRIPS. These grips require disassembly. -Twice a year, or whenever grips do not turn freely, indicating need of -lubrication, remove grips, clean parts, apply grease, and reassemble -(par. 101). - -(5) AIR CLEANER. Examine oil cup daily for excessive dirt and correct -oil level. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be -necessary to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. -Refill oil cup to indicated level with engine oil. Drain, clean, and -refill oil cup every 250 miles, depending upon operating conditions. -Every 1,000 miles (oftener if necessary), remove air cleaner filter -units, wash in dry‐cleaning solvent, lubricate, and reassemble (par. -76). NOTE: _Early type round cleaner did not have removable filter -element. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash element._ - -(6) WHEEL BEARINGS. When wheel hubs are lubricated at regular 500‐mile -interval, 1/8 ounce of grease with each greasing is sufficient. This -amounts to about 15 shots of the standard 1‐pound air gun, or four -strokes with a 1‐pound, hand‐operated gun. If vehicle has been operated -in water, wheel hubs submerged, apply hub greasing service immediately -afterward (or soon as situation permits). Do not overlubricate wheel -hub bearings, as excess grease may work into brake linings, reducing -brake efficiency. When using air‐operated grease gun, it is easy to -overlubricate wheel hub bearings. - -(7) STEERING HEAD BEARINGS. Every 50,000 miles, repack upper and lower -bearings, or whenever there is occasion to remove rigid fork for repair -or replacement (par. 98). - -(8) TANK, ENGINE OIL. Oil tank is located on right side of motorcycle. -Empty tank holds 1 U. S. gallon. Check daily and add engine oil as -necessary to refill tank within 1 inch of top. Oil level gage rod (dip -stick) is located directly below tank cap. When oil level is down to -“REFILL” mark on gage rod, 2 U. S. quarts may be added. Drain oil tank -every 1,000 miles and refill with fresh engine oil. Drain plug located -on underside of tank in forward position. In extremely dusty service, -and in winter weather, change oil oftener. - -(_a_) _Winter Caution._ Water is a by‐product of combustion in any -internal combustion engine. In a condensed state, the water vapor -formed would equal approximately the quantity of gasoline burned. Some -of this water vapor escapes past the rings into the crankcase. When -starting and warming up in cold weather, considerable vapor getting -into crankcase condenses to water before crankcase is hot enough -to exhaust the vapor, without inside condensation, through outside -breather. If engine is driven enough to get crankcase thoroughly warmed -up frequently, most of this water is again vaporized and blown out -through outside breather. However, a moderately driven engine, making -only short runs now and then, and seldom thoroughly warmed up, is -likely to accumulate an increasing amount of water in oil tank. This -water will, in freezing weather, become slush or ice and, if allowed -to accumulate too long, may block oil lines with resulting damage to -engine. Also, water mixed with oil for some time, forms a heavy sludge -of considerable acid content that is very harmful to bearings and -other internal engine parts. To sum it up briefly, an engine that is -used only for short runs during freezing weather requires frequent oil -changes along with thorough flushing of tank to remove any accumulated -sludge. - -(9) TRANSMISSION FILLER OPENING. Check oil level in transmission case -every 250 miles and add engine oil as necessary to bring level up to -filler opening. If motorcycle is run unusually long distances, inspect -more frequently. Motorcycle must be on rear stand in straight upright -position when checking oil level or filling transmission case. Use -same grade of oil used in engine, summer, and winter. If gear shifting -difficulty is caused by oil congealing in extremely cold weather, thin -oil with small amount of kerosene or dry‐cleaning solvent. Every 1,000 -miles, drain and refill transmission to level of transmission filler -plug opening with specified grade of engine oil. Transmission holds -3/4 pint of oil. To drain transmission case remove filler plug and lay -motorcycle on right side. CAUTION: _Do not leave motorcycle on side -longer than two minutes_. - -(10) DRIVE CHAINS. - -(_a_) Front and rear drive chains are automatically supplied with -lubrication by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may -need occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied -operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (or more often if operating -conditions are extremely severe) inspect front primary drive chain for -adequate lubrication (fig. 36). - -(_b_) At every 1,000‐mile period rear drive chain should have -additional lubrication as follows: Remove chain, wash thoroughly in -dry‐cleaning solvent and hang it up to dry. Then soak chain in SAE 10 -engine oil for a short period of time to allow oil to penetrate into -all chain bearings. Drain chain and wipe off excess oil. Install rear -chain (par. 63). (This attention is not required by front chain.) -Readjustment of chain oilers must be made only by organization mechanic -(par. 61). CAUTION: _Inspect frequently and make sure that rear chain -oiler supply pipe is clear, not bent or damaged_. - -=d. Before Applying Lubricant.= Always wipe dirt from the lubrication -fittings or plugs so that dirt will not enter with the lubricant. -Lubricate all chassis points after washing vehicle or after vehicle has -been operated in streams or extremely muddy or slushy roads. CAUTION: -_It is extremely important that high‐pressure cleaning streams or -steam should not be directed against ends of wheel hubs, brake side -cover bearings, air cleaner, handle bar grips, or electrical system. -To do so will seriously affect correct lubrication and functioning of -these parts._ - -=e. Oilcan Points.= All brake, transmission, and clutch control -points not fitted with grease connections should be lubricated with -engine oil. Front brake control cable, spark, and throttle control -wires must be oiled at the ends of their respective housings, -especially after washing vehicle, or after operating it in wet weather. -Keep battery terminal felt washers saturated with engine oil to prevent -corrosion of connections. - -=f. Warning Light.= Action of the engine oil feed pump is indicated -by red signal light in instrument panel. Rider must be thoroughly -familiar with operating characteristics of this signal light, to judge -condition of engine oil circulating system (par. 7 f). - - - - -Section VI - -TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT STOWAGE ON THE VEHICLE - - - Paragraph - Vehicle tools 21 - Vehicle equipment 22 - Vehicle spare parts 23 - -[Illustration: RA PD 310208 - -_Figure 11—Vehicle Tools_] - - -21. VEHICLE TOOLS (fig. 11). - -=a. Kits.= Included in the tool kit assembly are the following: - - Legend - Letter for Number Mfr’s Federal Stock Where - Fig. 11 Tool Carried Number Number Carried - - A Tool roll 1 11819-44 — In saddle bag - B Irons, tire 2 11551-X 41-I-773-75 In tool roll - *C Handle, chain tool 1 11817-40 41-H-1510-400 In tool roll - D Wrench, - 5/8-in. by 3/4-in. 1 11804-44C — In tool roll - E Wrench, - 1/2-in. by 9/16-in. 1 11804-44B — In tool roll - F Wrench, - 7/16-in. by 1/2-in. 1 11804-44A — In tool roll - G Wrench, - 5/16-in. by - 3/8-in. 1 11804-44 — In tool roll - H Wrench, - 3/8-in. by 7/16-in. - (valve tappet) 1 11905-X — In tool roll - I Wrench, adjustable 1 11813-44 — In tool roll - *J Wrench, - 3/4-in. by 1-3/4-in. - (rear axle nut - and trans.) 1 11814-35 41-W-1989-850 In tool roll - K Gage, tire 1 11562-43 —— In tool roll - *L Tool, chain repair 1 12039-38 —— In tool roll - *M Washers, - 0.002-in. thick - (chain oiler adj.) 4 674-32 —— In tool roll - *N Wrench, - 7/16-in. by 1-3/8-in. - (valve cover) 1 11806-31 41-W-3617 In tool roll - *O Wrench, - 7/16-in. by 1-1/8-in. - (use with spark - plug socket) 1 11929-39 —— In tool roll - *P Pliers, adjustable 1 11812-44 —— In tool roll - *Q Screwdriver 1 11811-X —— In tool roll - R Wrench, - 9/16-in. socket - (cyl. head bolt) 1 12047-30A 41-W01525 In tool roll - *S Wrench, - wheel mounting 1 11815-35 41-W-3825-400 In tool roll - *T Wrench, socket - (spark plug; - use with O) 1 11805-40 41-W-3332 In tool roll - Pump, tire 1 11553-41M 8-P-4900 On frame, - left side - Grease gun (in case) 1 11661-38A —— In saddle bag - -*EXCEPTION: _Earlier models furnished with smaller tool roll and kit -contain the items marked by asterisk._ - - -22. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT (figs. 12 and 13). - -=a. Attached to Vehicle.= - - Number Where - Item Carried Carried - - Saddlebags 2 On luggage carrier - Mirror, rear view 1 On left handle bar - Box, submachine gun ammunition 1 Front fender, left side - Bracket, submachine gun carrier 1 Front fender, right side - Guard, front safety 1 Attached to frame - Guard, rear safety 1 Attached to frame - Windshield, cpt 1 On handle bar - Leg shields, cpt (right and left) 2 Attached to frame - -[Illustration: RA PD 310216 - -_Figure 12—Vehicle Equipment, Left Side_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310217 - -_Figure 13—Vehicle Equipment, Right Side_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310209 - -_Figure 14—Vehicle Spare Parts_] - - -23. VEHICLE SPARE PARTS (fig. 14). - -[3]=a. Spare Parts.= - - Number Where - Item Carried Carried - - A Roll, parts kit 1 In saddlebag - H Plug, spark (and gasket) 1 In kit roll - F Link, rear chain repair 1 In kit roll - G Link, front chain repair 1 In kit roll - K Lamp‐unit, tail blackout 1 In kit roll - J Lamp‐unit, stop blackout 1 In kit roll - L Lamp‐unit, tail and stop 1 In kit roll - B Lamp bulk kit, head lamps, 5 bulbs 1 In kit roll - C Kit, tire repair 1 In kit roll - I Tape, friction 1 In kit roll - D Caps, tire valve (5 in box) 1 In kit roll - E Cores, tire valve (5 in box) 1 In kit roll - -[Footnote 3: EXCEPTION: _No spare parts kit supplied with earlier -models. Rear chain repair link only spare part furnished._] - - - - -PART TWO—VEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS - - - - -Section VII - -MAINTENANCE ALLOCATION - - Paragraph - Scope 24 - Allocation of maintenance 25 - - -24. SCOPE. - -=a.= The scope of maintenance and repair by the crew and other units -of the using arms is determined by the availability of suitable tools, -availability of necessary parts, capabilities of the mechanics, time -available, and the tactical situation. All of these are variable and no -exact system of procedure can be prescribed. - - -25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE. - -=a.= Indicated below are the maintenance duties for which tools and -parts have been provided for the using arm and maintenance personnel. -Replacements and repairs which are the responsibility of ordnance -maintenance personnel may be performed by using arm personnel when -circumstances permit, within the discretion of the commander concerned. -Echelons and words as used in this list of maintenance allocations are -defined as follows: - - FIRST AND OPERATING ORGANIZATION DRIVER, OPERATOR - SECOND ECHELON: or crew, companies and detachments, - Table III battalions, squadrons, regiments, and - AR 850-15 separate companies and detachments - (first and second echelons, respectively). - - THIRD ECHELON: Technical light and medium maintenance - Table III units, including post and port shops. - AR 850-15 - - FOURTH ECHELON: Technical heavy maintenance and field - Table III depot units including designated post - AR 850-15 and service command shops. - - FIFTH ECHELON: Technical base units. - Table III - AR 850-15 - - SERVICE: Checking and replenishing fuel, oil, - (Including preventive grease, water and antifreeze, air, and - maintenance) par. 24 a battery liquid; checking and tightening - (2) and (3) in part nuts and bolts; cleaning. - AR 850-15 - - REPLACE: To remove an unserviceable part, assembly, - Par. 24 a (5) or subassembly from a vehicle and - AR 850-15 replace it with a serviceable one. - - REPAIR: To restore to a serviceable condition, - Par. 24 a (6) in part such parts, assemblies or subassemblies - AR 850-15 as can be accomplished without completely - disassembling the assembly or - subassembly, and where heavy riveting, - or precision machining, fitting, balancing, - or alining is not required. - - REBUILD: Consists of stripping and completely - Par. 24 a (6) reconditioning and replacing in serviceable - AR 850-15 condition any vehicle or unserviceable - part, subassembly, or assembly of - the vehicle, including welding, riveting, - machining, fitting, alining, balancing, - assembling, and testing. - - RECLAMATION: Salvage of serviceable or economically - AR 850-15 repairable units and parts removed from - Par. 4 (c) in part CIR. vehicles, and their return to stock. This - 75, dated 16 March ’43 includes the process which recovers - and/or reclaims unusable articles or - component parts thereof and places - them in a serviceable condition. - - NOTES: (1) Operations allocated will normally be performed in the - echelon indicated by X. - - (2) Operations allocated to the third echelon as indicated by E may - be performed by these units in emergencies only. - - (3) Operations allocated to the fourth echelon by E are normally - fifth echelon operations. They will not be performed by the fourth - echelon, unless the unit is expressly authorized to do so by the - chief of the service concerned. - - - ECHELONS - - CLUTCH 2nd 3rd 4th 5th - - Bearings, clutch release—replace X - Clutch—replace and/or repair (reline) X - Hub, clutch—replace X - Hub, clutch—repair X - Sprocket assembly, clutch—replace X - Sprocket assembly, clutch—repair X - - - CONTROLS AND LINKAGE - - Controls and linkage—service and/or replace X - Controls and linkage—repair X - - - ELECTRICAL GROUP - - Battery—service (recharge) and/or replace X - Battery—repair X - Battery—rebuild E X - Cables, battery—replace and/or repair X - Coil, ignition—replace X - Head, speedometer—replace X - Head, speedometer—repair X - Head, speedometer—rebuild X - Horn assembly—replace X - Horn assembly—repair X - Light assemblies—service and/or replace X - Light assemblies—repair X - Panel, instrument—replace X - Panel, instrument—repair X - Switch assemblies—replace X - Switch assemblies—repair X - Wiring—replace X - - - ENGINE - (V-45″-Twin Engine) - - Bearings, main—replace E X - Bearings, connecting rod—replace E X - Breaker assembly, circuit—replace X - Breaker assembly, circuit—repair X - Breaker assembly, circuit—rebuild X - Carburetor—replace X - Carburetor—repair X - Carburetor—rebuild X - Cleaner, air—service and/or replace X - Cleaner, air—repair X - Cleaner, air—rebuild X - Cylinder assembly—replace X - Cylinder assembly—repair X - Cylinder assembly—rebuild (recondition) E X - Condenser—replace X - Engine assembly—replace *[4] X - Engine assembly—repair X - Engine assembly—rebuild E X - Gasket, cylinder head—replace X - Gears, timing—replace E X - Generator assembly—replace X - Generator assembly—repair X - Generator assembly—rebuild X - Head, cylinder—replace and/or repair X - Lines and connections—replace X - Lines and connections—repair X - Pistons, rings and pins assembly—replace E E X - Plug, spark—replace X - Points, circuit breaker—service and/or replace X - Pump assembly, feed—replace X - Pump assembly, feed—repair X - Pump assembly, feed—rebuild X - Pump assembly, oil—replace X - Pump assembly, oil—repair X - Pump assembly, oil—rebuild X - Pump assembly, oil scavenger—replace and/or - repair X - Pump assembly, oil scavenger—rebuild X - Rod, connecting—replace and/or rebuild - (recondition) X X - Sprocket, engine—replace X - Strained gasoline—replace and/or repair X - Valves—service X - - - EXHAUST GROUP - - Muffler and exhaust pipe—replace X - Muffler and exhaust pipe—repair X - - - MISCELLANEOUS - - Bars, safety—replace X - Bars, safety—repair X - Boxes, ammunition, battery and tool—replace X - Boxes, ammunition, battery and tool—repair X - Carriers, luggage and scabbard—replace X - Carriers, luggage and scabbard—repair X - Frame—replace and/or rebuild E X - Guards, mud—replace X - Guards, mud—repair X - Plate, skid—replace X - Plate, skid—repair X - Saddle—replace X - Saddle—repair X - Saddle—rebuild X - Springs, saddle post—replace X - Tank, fuel—replace X - Tank, fuel—repair X - Tank, oil—replace X - Tank, oil—repair X - - - SUSPENSION (FRONT) - - Bars, handle—replace X - Bars, handle—repair X - Damper, steering—replace X - Drum, brake—replace X - Fork, front assembly—replace X - Fork, front assembly—repair X - Fork, front assembly—rebuild X - Fork, spring—replace X - Fork, spring—repair X - Fork, spring—rebuild X - Plate, rocker—replace X - Plate, rocker—repair X - Shoe assembly, brake—service and/or replace X - Shoe assembly, brake—repair (reline) X - Springs, cushion and rebound—replace X - - - SUSPENSION (REAR) - - Chains, all—replace and/or repair X - Drum, brake, rear—replace X - Guards, chains—replace X - Guards, chains—repair X - Shoe assemblies, brake—service and/or replace X - Shoe assemblies, brake—repair (reline) X - Sprocket, rear—replace X - Wheels—replace X - Wheels—repair X - Wheels—rebuild E X - - - TIRES - - Casings and tubes—replace X - Casings—repair E X - Tubes, inner—repair X - - - TRANSMISSION - - Spring, kick starter—replace X - Sprocket, transmission countershaft—replace X - Starter, kick—replace X - Starter, kick—repair X - Transmission—replace *[4] X - Transmission—repair X - Transmission—rebuild E X - - - VEHICLE ASSEMBLY - - Motorcycle—service X - Motorcycle—rebuild (with serviceable unit - assemblies) X E - -[Footnote 4: The second echelon is authorized to remove and reinstall -items marked by an asterisk. However, when it is necessary to replace -an item marked by an asterisk with a new or rebuilt part, subassembly -or unit assembly, the assembly marked by an asterisk may be removed -from the vehicle by the second echelon _only after authority has been -obtained from a higher echelon of maintenance_.] - - - - -Section VIII - -SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE - - Paragraph - Second echelon preventive maintenance services 26 - - -26. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES. - -=a.= Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are -a preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the -responsibility of commanders of operating organizations. - -(1) FREQUENCY. The frequencies of the preventive maintenance services -outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for normal -operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions such as -extreme temperatures, and dusty or sandy terrain, it may be necessary -to perform certain maintenance services more frequently. - -(2) FIRST ECHELON PARTICIPATION. The drivers should accompany their -vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second echelon -preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily the driver -should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive maintenance -service in a reasonably clean condition; that is, it should be dry, -and not caked with mud or grease to such an extent that inspection and -servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the vehicle should not -be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain types of defects, -such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or assemblies are -more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty. - -(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general -procedures in paragraph (4) or the specific procedures in paragraph (5) -which follow, are required for the correct performance of a preventive -maintenance service, or for correction of a deficiency, other sections -of the vehicle operator’s manual pertaining to the item involved, or a -designated individual in authority, should be consulted. - -(4) GENERAL PROCEDURES. These general procedures are basic instructions -which are to be followed when performing the services on the items -listed in the specific procedures. The second echelon personnel must -be thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they will apply them -automatically. - -(_a_) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct -deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean, -correctly installed, properly lubricated, and adjusted. - -(_b_) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the -lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the -seal. - -(_c_) The general inspection of each item applies also to any -supporting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see -whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, -or excessively worn. The mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the -following explanations of these terms: - -_1._ The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual -inspection to determine whether or not the unit is damaged beyond safe -or serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further -by the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken -or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or -cut. - -_2._ The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” -is usually an external visual inspection to see whether or not it is in -its normal assembled position in the vehicle. - -_3._ The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually -an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for -looseness; such an inspection should include any brackets, lock -washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly. - -_4._ “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn, close to or -beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not -replaced before the next scheduled inspection. - -(_d_) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item -numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the services -are to be performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are to -receive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number in -one or both columns opposite a _Tighten_ procedure, means that the -actual tightening of the object must be performed. The special services -include: - -_1. Adjust._ Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the -pertinent section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins, -or other current directives. - -_2. Clean._ Clean units of the vehicle with dry‐cleaning solvent to -remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the -parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean dry‐cleaning solvent, and dry -them thoroughly. Take care to keep the parts clean until reassembled, -and be certain to keep dry‐cleaning solvent away from rubber or other -material which it will damage. Clean the protective grease coating from -new parts, since this material is not a good lubricant. - -_3. Special lubrication._ This applies both to lubrication operations -that do not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide, and to items -that do appear on such guides, but should be performed in connection -with the maintenance operations, if parts have to be disassembled for -inspection or service. - -_4. Serve._ This usually consists of performing special operations, -such as replenishing battery water, and draining and refilling units -with oil. - -_5. Tighten._ All tightening operations should be performed with -sufficient wrench‐torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the -nut according to good mechanical practice. Use torque‐indicating -wrench where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads, -or cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include -the correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins -provided to secure the tightening. - -(_e_) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete -preventive maintenance procedures at one time, these can sometimes be -handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within the -task if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac areas must -be utilized, if necessary, to assure that maintenance operations are -completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items with special -services in the columns should be given first consideration. - -(_f_) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that follow -are identical with those outlined on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which -is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles. -Certain items on the work sheet that do not apply to this vehicle -are not included in the procedures in this manual. In general, the -numerical sequence of items on the work sheet is followed in the manual -procedures, but in some instances there is deviation for conservation -of the mechanic’s time and effort. - -(5) SPECIFIC PROCEDURES. The procedures for performing each item in the -1,000‐mile maintenance procedures are described in the following chart. -Each page of the chart has a column at its left edge corresponding to -the 1,000‐mile maintenance. - - -ROAD TEST - -[Sidenote: 1000 Mile Maintenance] - -NOTE: If tactical situation does not permit a full road test, perform -items 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, and 14, which require slight or no -movement of the vehicle. When a road test is possible, it should be for -preferably 5, and not over 10 miles. - -[Sidenote: 1] - -=Before‐operation Inspection.= Perform Before‐operation Service listed -on W.D. Form No. 418. “Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance -Service Record” (described in par. 15), to determine if vehicle is in a -satisfactory condition to make the road test safely. - -[Sidenote: 2] - -=Ease of Starting.= Start engine and observe action of starter. Note if -engine responds readily. - -[Sidenote: 3] - -=Oil Circulation.= Oil circulation is normally indicated by oil signal -light (red light) in instrument panel being out. When red light is on, -oil is not circulating. Observe for excess smoke in exhaust. CAUTION: -_If red light fails to go out after engine has been started, stop -engine at once. Refer to paragraph 30 for possible causes._ - -[Sidenote: 4] - -=Instruments.= Observe instruments for proper or normal indication and -functioning of system to which they apply. - -SPEEDOMETER AND ODOMETER. Speedometer must indicate vehicle speed -without excessive noise or fluctuation; odometer must record trip and -total mileage. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT. Note whether oil signal light -(red light) indicates correctly. After ignition switch is turned on, -and before starting engine, the red light should go on, indicating no -oil circulation. When engine is started, light should go out. - -GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT. With switch on, and before starting engine, -the green signal light should go on, indicating discharge of battery. -After starting engine, increase engine speed to a medium fast idle; -green signal light should then go out, indicating generator is charging -battery. CAUTION: _Continue observation of signal lights during road -test, and if lights should fail to operate as indicated above, stop -engine, investigate cause, and correct or report trouble to proper -authority._ - -[Sidenote: 5] - -=Brake Operation.= Test foot brake for safe stop within reasonable -distance. Note squeaks or chatter that might indicate wet, oily, -dirty, or loose lining, damaged drum, or improper adjustment. Apply -hand‐operated front brake only in conjunction with rear brake and -observe whether it operates effectively in assisting to make a quicker -stop. - -[Sidenote: 6] - -=Clutch Operation.= Before moving vehicle, make sure that clutch pedal -has satisfactory free travel before it begins to disengage clutch; that -it releases clutch completely before reaching end of travel; and that -there are no unusual noises in clutch‐release mechanism. When starting -vehicle, observe whether clutch grabs, chatters, or slips when fully -engaged. - -[Sidenote: 7] - -=Gearshift.= Shift through entire gear range of transmission and -observe whether mechanism operates freely without clashing or jumping -out of gear. Note any unusual vibration that might indicate loose -engine or transmission mountings. - -[Sidenote: 8] - -=Unusual Noises.= During entire road test, listen for unusual noises -that might indicate worn, loose, damaged, or insufficiently lubricated -parts in the entire motorcycle, particularly in engine and accessories, -or in the power train. - -CAUTION: _Loose primary (front) drive chain, with slack in excess of -1/2 inch total up‐and‐down motion, can cause excessive noise which -sounds like engine knock. Remove inspection cover for examination of -chain._ - -[Sidenote: 9] - -=Steering.= Observe steering mechanism for indication of looseness -or excessive binding through full turning range. With hands resting -lightly on handle bars and vehicle in vertical position, observe -whether there is any tendency to pull to one side when operating at a -reasonable speed. Note any indication of steering instability at higher -speeds. - -[Sidenote: 10] - -=Balance.= If vehicle does not balance properly in operation, inspect -for misalinement of rear wheel. - -[Sidenote: 11] - -=Speedometer and Odometer.= Inspect speedometer for proper operation, -excessive fluctuation, or unusual noise. Observe odometer for correct -recording of trip and total mileage. - -[Sidenote: 12] - -=Throttle and Spark Controls.= Set throttle stop screw and low speed -needle adjustment so that engine will operate smoothly and will not -stall at idling speed. With vehicle running at a speed of 30 miles per -hour, or faster, in high gear, turn throttle control grip to “OPEN” -and “CLOSED” positions and note whether engine responds instantly to -throttle changes. Turn spark control grip and note whether it fully -advances and retards ignition timer. - -[Sidenote: 13] - -=Power and Operation.= Observe engine for normal pulling power, and -good operating characteristics in each speed, from first to high gear. -Also observe whether engine misses, stalls, knocks excessively, or -makes any other unusual noise. - -[Sidenote: 14] - -=Carburetor Adjustment.= No carburetor adjustment, other than idle -adjustment as performed in item 12, is required on this vehicle. - -[Sidenote: 15] - -=Brake Drum and Hub Temperature.= Immediately after completing road -test, feel front and rear brake drums and wheel hubs for overheating. - -[Sidenote: 16] - -=Power Train Temperatures.= Feel transmission for overheating. - - -MAINTENANCE OPERATION - -[Sidenote: 17] - -=Compression Test.= With throttle wide‐open, test compression with -starter. If engine lacks compression, inspect for leaks. - -[Sidenote: 18] - -=Transmission.= Inspect transmission for good condition, secure -mounting, and leaks. Inspect oil level. Drain and refill transmission -to level of transmission filler plug opening with specified grade of -engine oil. CAUTION: _Always drain transmission immediately after it -has been warmed and agitated by operation of engine. Refill as soon as -draining is completed to avoid hazard of operating without lubricant. -Tighten all mounting and assembly bolts securely._ - -[Sidenote: 20] - -=Engine Oil.= Inspect oil tank for oil level: drain and refill tank. -CAUTION: _Fill to within 1 inch of filler opening and filler cap -with specified weight of oil. Always drain immediately after engine -operation and refill as soon as draining is completed, to avoid hazard -of operating without lubricant._ - -[Sidenote: 21] - -=Battery and Carrier.= Clean top of battery. See that battery and -carrier are in good condition, and that carrier is securely mounted. -Remove cell caps: make sure that vents are open. Test specific gravity -with hydrometer and record readings on work sheet, W.D. AGO Form No. -463. Readings below 1.225 indicate need for recharge, or battery -failure. Variation between cells of more then 0.025 must be reported. -Read and record voltage of battery (6‐volt reading is normal). Bring -electrolyte to 5/16 inch above tops of plates, using clean, drinkable -water. If excessive looseness of battery in case is noted, check for -presence of rubber pad in bottom of case, and make sure rubber pad is -installed on top of battery, when battery service is completed. - -[Sidenote: 22] - -=Battery Wires and Terminals.= Inspect battery for good condition and -secure connections. Look for worn spots in wire insulation. Oil the -felt washers on battery terminals. - -[Sidenote: 23] - -=Electrical Wiring.= Inspect all electric wiring to see that it is in -good condition, securely attached, and connected. Look for worn spots -in insulation. - -[Sidenote: 24] - -=Generator Drive and Mounting, and Relay.= Inspect generator for secure -mounting. After removing left footboard assembly, remove generator and -cover. Examine commutator for cleanliness, good condition, or excessive -wear. If commutator is dirty, it must be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. -Blow out with compressed air. If commutator is in bad condition or -excessively worn, replace generator. Remove relay cover, being careful -to avoid damage to mechanism, and inspect for cleanliness. Blow out -with air if wet or dirty. CAUTION: _Do not attempt to adjust relay, or -to clean it in any other manner._ - -[Sidenote: 25] - -=Timer= (=Circuit Breaker=). Clean and remove timer cover. See that -wiring leads are securely connected and that inside of the timer is -clean. Inspect breaker points to see that they are clean, well‐lined, -engaging squarely, and are not excessively pitted, burned, or worn. -See that condenser mounting screw is tight. Breaker lever should be -free on its pivot and well insulated from the pivot pin. Determine if -breaker arm spring exerts normal force against arm. Examine camshaft -by hand‐feel to see whether it is excessively worn in its bushings; if -camshaft bushings are worn excessively, install new timer. If points -are slightly burned or pitted, dress them with a fine file. If breaker -points are unserviceable, install a new set, taking care to aline them -and to adjust gap to 0.022 inch. Apply one drop of oil to breaker arm -pivot pin. Use clean cloth to wipe cam and then coat with a very light -film of light grease. CAUTION: _Be careful to avoid getting oil or -grease on breaker points._ - -[Sidenote: 26] - -=Spark Plugs.= Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast cleaner, and -inspect for cracked insulators: inspect electrodes for good condition -and adjust gap to 0.025 to 0.030 inch; replace faulty plugs. Be sure -to install new gasket with new plug. Inspect radio suppressors on plug -cables for good condition and secure attachment. - -[Sidenote: 27] - -=Ignition and Light Switch.= Make sure that the switch is in good -condition and operating properly in all positions. - -[Sidenote: 28] - -=Lights, Service and Blackout.= See that all lights are clean, in good -condition, properly aimed, and securely mounted. Tactical situation -permitting, turn switch to each of its positions and observe whether -service and blackout lights operate properly, and whether they go out -when switched off. Operate dimmer switch on left handle bar to see -whether it depresses beam of service headlight. Apply foot brake for -check of both blackout and service stop light operation. Inspect lenses -for breakage, and headlight reflector for discoloration. Clean all -lenses. - -[Sidenote: 29] - -=Horn.= Tactical situation permitting, sound horn to test for normal -signal. Examine horn for good condition, secure mounting, and tight -wiring connections. - -[Sidenote: 30] - -=Cylinder Heads.= If cylinder head gaskets show signs of leakage, -tighten head bolts: if leakage persists, new gaskets should be -installed. A head bolt wrench (Fed‐Stock No. 41-W-1525) is available -with which head bolts can be tightened without removing tanks for -wrench clearance. If tanks are removed to permit taking off heads and -installing new gaskets, bolts should then be tightened evenly with a -torque wrench to a tension of 60 foot‐pounds minimum, or 65 foot‐pounds -maximum, when engine is cold. - -[Sidenote: 31] - -=Cylinder Hold‐down Nuts.= If these nuts are loose, or there is -excessive oil leakage around cylinder bases, tighten nuts evenly when -engine is cold. If excessive leakage persists, new gaskets should be -installed. CAUTION: _If cylinder base nuts are loose, perform item 36 -before starting engine._ - -[Sidenote: 32] - -=Engine Mountings.= Inspect top engine mounting bracket and bolt for -good condition and security. CAUTION: _Tight seating of the engine -bracket mounting bolt is a necessity for effective radio bonding. -Inspect four lower engine mounting bolts for signs of looseness. -Tighten as required._ - -[Sidenote: 33] - -=Engine Crankcase.= Examine engine crankcase for good condition and for -leaks. Make sure timing gear cover screws, and oil feed and scavenger -pump nuts, are tight. - -[Sidenote: 34] - -=Intake Manifold.= Examine manifold for good condition and secure -mounting. Make sure manifold nuts are tight. - -[Sidenote: 35] - -=Muffler and Exhaust Pipes.= Inspect muffler and exhaust pipes for good -condition, secure mounting, and for leaks. Be sure tail pipe opening is -not restricted. - -[Sidenote: 36] - -=Valve Mechanism.= When engine is cold, adjust valve tappet clearance -to 0.004-inch minimum, 0.005-inch maximum on intake valve; 0.006-inch -minimum, 0.007-inch maximum on exhaust valve. See that valve springs -are in good condition and properly secured; that valve tappet adjusting -screws and lock nuts are in good condition; and that valve covers are -in good condition, secure, and not leaking oil. - -[Sidenote: 37] - -=Starter.= Examine pedal, crank, and return spring for good condition, -correct assembly, and secure mounting. Starter should operate without -binding, and return spring should bring starter crank to its disengaged -position when foot pressure is removed. CAUTION: _Make sure that -starter crank pinch bolt is installed with head of bolt toward rear of -vehicle when crank is in upright position._ - -[Sidenote: 38] - -=Engine Cooling Fins.= Inspect engine cooling fins for good condition -and cleanliness. Remove all dirt or foreign matter. Do not apply paint -to cooling fins. - -[Sidenote: 39] - -=Filler Caps and Vents.= Wipe dirt and dust from filler caps of fuel -and oil tanks. Inspect caps and gaskets to see that they are in good -condition. Note whether vent in fuel filler cap is open. Reinstall -caps, observing that each locks properly on filler neck. Do not -interchange fuel and oil tank filler caps. - -[Sidenote: 40] - -=Fuel Tank Valves and Lines.= See that valves and lines are in good -condition, secure, and not leaking. Test fuel shut‐off valve for ample -friction to hold valve in reserve position. See that valve lifts freely -enough to operate satisfactorily. - -[Sidenote: 41] - -=Oil System Leaks.= Examine oil tank, oil lines, vent line, and -connections for good condition, secure attachment, and for leaks. - -[Sidenote: 42] - -=Carburetor and Fuel Filter= (=Gasoline Strainer=). Examine carburetor -and fuel filter for good condition, secure connections, and for leaks. -Shut off fuel tank valve and remove filter (strainer) cap and screen. -Wash cap and screen in dry‐cleaning solvent, and open shut‐off valve -slightly to flush filter body. Reassemble screen, gaskets, and cap, -being careful not to damage gaskets. Use new gaskets if necessary. -Drain water and foreign matter from carburetor bowl by removing bowl -drain plug. Open shut‐off valve slightly to flush carburetor bowl while -plug is out. Replace plug, being careful to avoid crossing threads. -Open fuel tank shut‐off valve and check for leaks. - -[Sidenote: 43] - -=Air Cleaner.= Remove oil cup; inspect condition of oil, and amount of -sediment. If service is required, remove filter elements, clean and -fill cup to NORMAL level. Wash elements in dry‐cleaning solvent, dry -thoroughly with compressed air, immerse each element in oil in cup, and -reassemble elements and oil cup to air cleaner body immediately. Make -sure gaskets are in good condition. NOTE: _Early type round cleaner -does not have removable filter element; therefore, the complete cleaner -body must be removed to wash element._ - -[Sidenote: 44] - -=Gearshift Lever and Linkage.= See that gearshift lever and linkage -are in good condition, secure, and not excessively worn. Lubricate -all joints with a few drops of engine oil. Adjust shifter lever so -that when moved to any gear position in shifter guide on tank, the -transmission is shifted to full engagement in corresponding gear. - -[Sidenote: 45] - -=Primary Drive.= Remove inspection hole cover from front chain guard. -With clutch engaged and transmission in neutral, rotate primary chain -to position of least slack. Check chain for 1/2-inch deflection. -Deflection measurement should be total up‐and‐down free movement. -Inspect chain for adequate lubrication. Loosen front and rear chain -oiler adjusting screws two turns each. Do not remove screws. Idle -engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not force. This -operation serves to flush control valves and rear chain oiler pipe. - -[Sidenote: 46] - -=Clutch Pedal and Linkage.= Inspect clutch pedal clevis connections and -cable to see that they are in good condition and not excessively worn. -Check free travel of clutch pedal to make sure it is within specified -limits. With foot pedal in fully disengaged position (heel against -footboard) clutch release lever must clear sprocket cover stud and nut -by about 1/16 inch: with foot pedal in fully engaged position, clutch -release lever must have between 1/8- and 1/4-inch of free movement -on end of foot pedal cable. Lubricate all joints with a few drops of -engine oil, including cable at each end of cable housing. - -[Sidenote: 47] - -=Rear Chain and Guard.= Inspect rear chain guard for good condition -and secure mounting. Remove chain, wash thoroughly in dry‐cleaning -solvent, and hang it up to dry. See that chain is in good condition, -not excessively worn, and has no broken rollers on side plates. Soak -chain in SAE 10 engine oil for a short period of time to allow oil -to penetrate into all rollers; drain chain, and wipe off excess oil. -Inspect countershaft sprocket, and rear wheel sprocket to see that they -are in good condition, not excessively worn, and that rear sprocket -rivets are tight. Do not reinstall chain until item 71 has been -performed. When reinstalling chain, make sure that connecting link is -in good condition and securely locked. See that open end of connecting -link spring clip is trailing in direction of chain travel. Adjust chain -(paragraph 60). - -[Sidenote: 48] - -=Final Drive Sprockets.= Inspection of final drive sprockets is made -when performing item 47. - -[Sidenote: 50] - -=Paint and Markings.= Examine vehicle for good condition and see that -paint is not rubbed to a polish, and has no bare spots that might rust -or reflect light. See that vehicle markings are legible. - -[Sidenote: 51] - -=Frame.= Examine frame for good condition; observe whether it seems to -be sprung out of alinement. - -[Sidenote: 52] - -=Steering Head and Fork Stem.= Raise front end of vehicle by placing -blocks under skid plate. Complete all following items to and including -item 71, before lowering vehicle to ground. Examine steering head and -fork stems for good condition. Note whether there is up‐and‐down play -caused by loose bearings. Move handle bars through complete range -and observe if there is any binding which might indicate improperly -adjusted or defective bearings. - -[Sidenote: 53] - -=Handle Bars.= Examine handle bars for good condition and secure -mounting. - -[Sidenote: 54] - -=Throttle Control.= See that grip is in good condition, that throttle -opens and closes completely as grip is turned to its extreme positions, -and that control wire and housing are in good condition and secure. -Lubricate lightly through hole in rear of grip to avoid rusting and -“freezing.” If grip does not rotate freely, disassemble grip, clean, -and lubricate spiral control parts. - -[Sidenote: 55] - -=Spark Control.= See that grip is in good condition, that spark is -fully advanced and retarded as the grip is turned to its extreme -positions; that the control wire and housing are in good condition and -secure. Lubricate lightly through hole in rear of grip to avoid rusting -and “freezing.” If grip does not rotate freely, disassemble grip, -clean, and lubricate spiral control parts. - -[Sidenote: 57] - -=Rear View Mirror.= Clean rear view mirror and examine for good -condition and secure mounting. - -[Sidenote: 58] - -=Front Fender= (=Mudguard=). Examine front fender for good condition -and secure mounting; see that fender does not scrape tire. - -[Sidenote: 59] - -=Weapon Carrier.= Inspect weapon carrier for good condition and secure -mounting. - -[Sidenote: 60] - -=Ammunition Box.= See that ammunition box and cover are in good -condition and securely attached. - -[Sidenote: 61] - -=Front Springs.= See that front springs and their mountings are in good -condition, correctly assembled, and secure. - -[Sidenote: 62] - -=Front Forks.= See that front forks are in good condition and securely -mounted. - -[Sidenote: 63] - -=Front Fork Rocker Plates (Rocker Arms).= See that front fork rocket -plates are in good condition, secure, and not excessively worn. Tighten -rocker plate stud nuts securely. - -[Sidenote: 64] - -=Front Fork Damper.= Inspect steering damper for good condition and to -see that it operates freely. Observe whether friction disks are glazed, -coated with grease, or excessively worn. - -[Sidenote: 65] - -=Front Brake and Control Linkage.= See that control linkage operates -freely, that all connections are tight, and that brake is adjusted so -that end of hand lever has 1/4 free travel before meeting resistance. -Look for any indications of a cracked or excessively worn brake drum: -badly worn, loose, or grease‐saturated linings. If there are any -such indications, remove wheel for closer inspection. Look for badly -worn brake side cover bushing, shackle bushings and studs, or brake -operating stud bearing. Apply a few drops of engine oil to control -cable, especially at control housing oiler at left handle bar, and to -pin joints. - -[Sidenote: 66] - -=Front Wheel Alinement and Spokes.= Examine front wheel spokes for -presence, good condition, and tightness. If loose spokes are found, -tighten evenly, taking care not to distort rim out‐of‐round, or to -cause run‐out. Examine rim for good condition, and spin wheel to see -that it has no appreciable run‐out. - -[Sidenote: 67] - -=Front Wheel Bearings.= Inspect wheel to see whether bearings are -excessively loose. Wheel should have slight amount of side play at -rim. Spin wheel and listen for unusual noises which might indicate dry -or defective bearings or races. Observe for excessive grease leak. -If wheel is found to need only slight cone readjustment to correct -excessive bearing play, remove wheel and make this adjustment (par. -126). If indications are found that hub is otherwise in bad order, -replace wheel. - -EACH SIXTH 1,000-MILE MAINTENANCE SERVICE. Remove front wheel, axle -sleeve and bearing, and, together with wheel hub, clean thoroughly in -dry‐cleaning solvent. Inspect parts for good condition: inspect brake -drum. Inspect lining for good condition and secure attachment, and see -that it is neither excessively worn nor soaked with grease. Repack -bearings, hub, and axle sleeve with specified lubricant. CAUTION: _Make -sure that hands and grease are perfectly clean, and that grease is -forced between balls onto the cone._ Reassemble and adjust bearings -according to instructions in paragraph 126, taking care to see that -wheel is properly alined. If unusual operating conditions, such as -fording streams, have indicated probable contamination of lubricant, -this service should be performed more frequently. - -[Sidenote: 68] - -=Front Wheel Axle Nuts.= Tighten axle nuts, making sure that cotter -pins are installed. Slot in stabilizer plate must be anchored on -extended end of left‐front rocker plate stud. - -[Sidenote: 69] - -=Tires, Front and Rear.= Gage tires and inflate to 18 pounds front, and -20 pounds rear (cold). Make sure that valve stems are in good condition -and correctly installed, and that valve caps are present and secure. -Examine tires for cuts, bruises, breaks, and blisters: remove imbedded -glass, nails, or other foreign matter from tire treads; observe treads -for excessive or irregular tire wear. At any inspection when unusual or -irregular tire wear becomes evident, interchange front and rear tires. - -[Sidenote: 70] - -=Rear Wheel Alinement and Spokes.= With vehicle on rear stand, inspect -in same manner as front wheel (item 66). If it is necessary to aline -wheel in frame, make sure sprockets and chains are in correct alinement. - -[Sidenote: 71] - -=Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals.= Inspect wheel to see whether bearings -are excessively loose (wheel should have a slight amount of play at -rim). Spin wheel and listen for unusual noise which might indicate -dry or defective bearings. Also observe whether there is excessive -grease leak. Test for excessive end play. If wheel is found to have -considerable side play at rim, indicating excessively worn bearings, or -there is evidence of hub assembly being in bad order otherwise, replace -wheel. If wheel must be replaced, inspect brake drum and lining for -good condition, as indicated in item 75, before reinstalling wheel. -CAUTION: _Make sure that wheel mounting socket screws are tight._ - -[Sidenote: 72] - -=Rear Wheel Axle Nut.= See that rear wheel axle nut is in good -condition and securely tightened. - -[Sidenote: 74] - -=Rear Fender= (=Mudguard=). Inspect rear fender for good condition and -secure attachment. - -[Sidenote: 75] - -=Rear Brake and Control Linkage.= See that brake control linkage -operates freely, and that all connections are secure. Look for -indications of badly worn or grease‐saturated linings. If brake -operating lever stands considerably ahead of vertical, excessive lining -wear is indicated. If grease has worked out between brake drum and -brake cover, grease‐saturated linings are indicated. In either case -the wheel should be removed for closer inspection. Inspect drum for -cracks or excessive wear. Make sure wheel mounting socket screws are -tight. Examine linkage for loose or worn pin or clevis, and for missing -washers or cotter pins. Apply a few drops of engine oil to all linkage -joints. Brake pedal should have 1-inch free travel before brake begins -to meet resistance. Adjust length of brake rod at brake operating lever -to provide 1-inch free pedal travel. - -[Sidenote: 77] - -=Footboard and Rest.= Examine footboard and rest for good condition and -secure attachment. - -[Sidenote: 78] - -=Saddle Spring and Hinge.= Examine saddle for good condition and secure -mounting, paying particular attention to torn leather, ripped seams, -sagging or broken spring in seat post, and excessive wear in front -hinge. CAUTION: _Make sure that spring wire clip properly locks the -saddle rear hinge clevis pin._ - -[Sidenote: 79] - -=Luggage Carrier.= Examine luggage carrier for good condition and -secure mounting. - -[Sidenote: 80] - -=Saddle Bags.= Examine saddle bags for good condition, cleanliness, and -secure fastening to luggage carrier. Note particularly whether leather -is torn, seams ripped, or straps and buckles missing or damaged. - -[Sidenote: 81] - -=Tools, Tire Pump, and Equipment.= Inspect tool kit, tools, tire pump, -and other equipment for good condition, cleanliness, serviceability, -and proper stowage. Make sure that tire pump is securely clamped to -motorcycle frame. Check all items with stowage list (pars. 21, 22 and -23). Make sure that vehicle manuals and Accident Report Form No. 26 are -present on vehicle and legible. - -[Sidenote: 82] - -=Safety Guards.= Inspect safety guards for good condition and secure -mounting. - -[Sidenote: 83] - -=Leg Shields.= Inspect leg shields for good condition and secure -mounting. NOTE: _Motorcycles operating in warm weather should not be -equipped with leg shields, as they seriously hamper engine cooling._ - -[Sidenote: 84] - -=Skid Plate.= Examine skid plate for good condition and secure -mounting. CAUTION: _Skid plate must be present._ - -[Sidenote: 85] - -=Vehicle Lubrication.= Lubricate all points of vehicle in accordance -with instructions in this manual, Lubrication Guide, current -lubrication bulletins or directives, and the following instructions: - -Any unit that required disassembly for inspection purposes must be -lubricated correctly unless the vehicle is to be deadlined for the -repair of that unit. Use only clean lubricant. Keep all lubricant -containers covered except when used during lubrication. Before applying -lubricant, always wipe dirt from the lubrication fitting or plug so -that dirt will not enter with the lubricant. If lubricant fittings or -plugs are missing or damaged, replace them. Clean the hole in which the -fitting is to be installed, and lubricate after the new fitting has -been installed. - -Lubricant must be applied properly. On unsealed joints or bushings, -apply lubricant until it appears at openings. However, lubricate -sparingly the front wheel hub, rear wheel hub, front brake side cover -bushing, front brake operating lever stud, and rear brake operating -lever stud, to prevent grease reaching brake linings. Rider should -be advised whenever wheel bearings are serviced or adjusted, so that -during the next road operation he may determine whether bearings or -brake drums are running hot, due to overtight adjustment of bearings, -or a dragging brake. - -Do not apply more than specified amount of lubricant to generator or -timer (circuit breaker). To do so may cause failure of the unit. - -Wipe off excess applied lubricant that may drip onto brake or operating -surfaces, soil clothes, or detract from vehicle’s appearance. - -Parts or assemblies that have already been lubricated while -disassembled for inspection, gear cases that have been drained and -refilled as mandatory items in the procedure, and those parts that -have been indicated for special lubrication, will be omitted from the -general lubrication of the vehicle. - -[Sidenote: 86] - -=Final Road Test.= Make a final road test, reinspecting items 2 to 16, -inclusive. Be sure to recheck transmission to see that lubricant is at -correct level and not leaking. Confine this road test to the minimum -distance necessary to make satisfactory observation. Correct or report -all deficiencies found during final road test to designated authority. - - - - -Section IX - -ORGANIZATION TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT - - Paragraph - Tools and equipment 27 - - -27. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. - -=a.= Refer to SNL-N 19 for common hand tools available to second -echelon. - -=b.= Refer to list given below for all special tools available to -second echelon. - - Special Tool Manufacturer’s Federal Stock - Description Number Number - - Hydrometer, battery, special HRD 11831-X 18-H-1242 - - Tool, repair, drive chain, - motorcycle universal HRD 12039-X 41-T-3320 - - Tool, spoke tightening, - special, 3/4-inch, for - small diameter spokes IMC 7-T-3259 41-T-3368-20 - - Wrench, cyl. base nut, twin HRD 12650-29 2941-W-872-10 - - Wrench, head bolt HRD 12047-30A 41-W-1525 - - Wrench, manifold, 45-in. twin HRD 12003-X 41-W-1570-10 - - Wrench, spark plug HRD 11929-40 41-W-3334 - - Wrench, spoke nipple, front wheel HRD 12032-X 41-W-3339 - - Wrench, spoke nipple, heavy - duty rear wheel HRD 12033-39 41-W-3340 - - Wrench, tappet and dbl-head - open-end 7/16- and 1-3/8-in HRD 11806-31 41-W-3617 - - - - -Section X - -TROUBLE SHOOTING - - Paragraph - Introduction 28 - Engine 29 - Engine lubricating system 30 - Fuel system 31 - Ignition system 32 - Generating system 33 - Electrical system 34 - Transmission and clutch 35 - Wheels and chains 36 - Brakes 37 - Steering 38 - - -28. INTRODUCTION. - -=a.= Trouble shooting for the entire vehicle is given in this section. -The engine trouble shooting paragraph traces trouble to a system -affecting engine performance: for example, fuel or ignition. To -trace trouble to one or more defective components of a system, it is -necessary to refer to the pertinent paragraph of this section when the -defective system or systems have been located in the engine trouble -shooting paragraph. - -=b.= The material given in this section applies to the operation of the -vehicle under normal conditions. If extreme conditions of temperature -occur, it is assumed the operator of the vehicle has prepared his -vehicle for use for the conditions encountered. - - -29. ENGINE. - -=a. Instruction.= This subparagraph traces troubles to a system -affecting engine performance. Step b below gives simple engine tests -to determine the mechanical condition of the engine. References in -step b refer to step c for engine mechanical troubles, or to pertinent -paragraphs in this section for system troubles, or when a test -indicates a special unit is faulty, to the pertinent paragraph in this -manual. - -(1) ENGINE DOES NOT TURN OVER WHEN FOOT STARTER IS OPERATED. - -(_a_) Clutch slipping. Check adjustment (par. 48). - -(_b_) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. 65). - -(_c_) Starter clutch stuck by congealed oil. Free starter clutch. Use -proper grade of oil. - -(_d_) Starter clutch worn. Refer to maintenance personnel. - -(_e_) Engine locked (seized). Refer to organization mechanic. - - -(2) ENGINE TURNS OVER WHEN CRANKED BUT DOES NOT START. - -(_a_) Fuel supply valve closed. Open valve. - -(_b_) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank. - -(_c_) Fuel system faulty. Refer to paragraph 31. - -(_d_) Ignition system faulty. Refer to paragraph 32. - -(_e_) Battery weak or dead. Refer to paragraph 34. - -(_f_) Insufficient compression. Refer to step b, below. - - -(3) WEAK COMPRESSION. Refer to step b below for test. - -(_a_) Improper valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. 43). - -(_b_) Valves sticking. Use dry‐cleaning solvent to free valve stems in -guides. - -(_c_) Faulty lubrication. Refer to paragraph 20. - -(_d_) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or faulty gasket. Tighten head -bolts or replace gasket (par. 41). - - -(4) OVERHEATING. - -(_a_) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31. - -(_b_) Dirt on cylinders. Clean fins on cylinder, especially the fins on -cylinder head. - -(_c_) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30. - -(_d_) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32. - -(_e_) Idling engine without having vehicle in motion. Do not idle -engine longer than 1 minute. - -(_f_) Valve tappet adjustment incorrect. Refer to step b (1) below for -test, to paragraph 43 for adjustment. - -(_g_) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60). - -(_h_) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to organization mechanic. - - -(5) LACK OF POWER. - -(_a_) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31. - -(_b_) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32. - -(_c_) Overheating. Refer to step (4) above. - -(_d_) Defective lubricating system. Refer to paragraph 30. - -(_e_) Poor compression. Refer to step (3) above. - -(_f_) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60). - -(_g_) Brakes dragging. Adjust (pars. 96 and 97). - - -(6) POPPING AND SPITTING THROUGH CARBURETOR. - -(_a_) Water in fuel. Water may be present in fuel tank and carburetor. -Drain and refill fuel tank and carburetor bowl. - -(_b_) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment or sticky valves. Test (step -=b= (1) below). Adjust tappets (par. 43). (_c_) Defective ignition -system. Refer to paragraph 32. - -(_d_) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31. - -(_e_) Weak and/or broken valve springs. Refer to higher authority. - - -(7) SPARK KNOCK. - -(_a_) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32. - -(_b_) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to step b (2) below. - -(_c_) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31. - -(_d_) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30. - - -(8) POUNDING AND EXCESSIVE METALLIC NOISE. - -(_a_) Front drive chain too loose. Refer to paragraph 36. - -(_b_) Engine sprocket loose on shaft. - -(_c_) Excessively loose valve tappets. Adjust (par. 43). - -(_d_) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten. - -(_e_) Transmission mounting stud nuts loose. Tighten (par. 60). - -(_f_) Spark timing incorrect. Adjust. - -(_g_) Internal parts of engine worn or broken. Notify organization -mechanic. - -=b. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.= - -(1) RINGS AND VALVES. This is a simple compression test. If possible, -make this test with the engine warm. Ignition switch must be off. Crank -engine slowly, placing entire weight of body on starter crank. Engine -compression should sustain the weight of an average size rider several -seconds before crank passes through complete range of its travel. If -engine offers little resistance to starter crank in testing either or -both cylinders, it is an indication that compression is not adequate in -one or both cylinders. No clearance or insufficient clearance at valve -tappets; valves sticking in guides; valves seating poorly; cylinder -heads leaking; spark plugs loose in heads; piston rings badly worn -and/or broken; cylinder and pistons badly worn, or lack of lubrication -could cause the above condition. Make external checks first: See that -oil is in tank, that spark plugs are tight, and examine around cylinder -heads for signs of leaking oil deposits. In extremely cold weather, -resistance to the starter crank is increased by “stiff” oil in engine -and transmission. Therefore, do not mistake this condition to indicate -actual engine compression. - -(2) ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE. Owing to constructional design of the -motorcycle, correct adjustment of the several units and components -is necessary for smooth and normally quiet engine operation. Many -motorcycles have been “deadlined” and engines exchanged because -simple tune‐up service and correct adjustment of components have been -neglected. Rough, jerky, and noisy engine action at low speed riding -is usually caused by excessively loose front and rear drive chains, -or by a transmission being loose in its frame mounting. Fast idling -of engine with the front drive chain too loose, may give the false -impression that the engine bearings and pistons need replacement -service. Engine sprocket loose on its shaft will cause a pounding noise -similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If front drive chain -is too tight, or engine sprocket and chain are badly worn, a grinding -noise results, seeming to come from the engine. Excessively loose valve -tappets will cause abnormal metallic noise in the valve timing gear -train and engine crankcase. Spark advanced too far will cause rough -engine performance at low speeds as well as spark knock, pounding, -and overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation with consequent -noise, result from loose mounting bolts. Generator mounted to give -insufficient gear‐tooth clearance will cause “howl” in gear case. - - -30. ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEM. - -=a.= Action of the oil feed pump is indicated by the red signal light -located in right side of instrument panel. (Red signal light is -normally grounded by the oil pressure switch. When oil pump pressure -is built up several pounds, diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.) -Action of the scavenger (oil return) pump is indicated (engine running) -by oil dripping from 1/8-inch hole in oil return tube (large tube) -inside oil tank, just back of oil gage rod (dip stick) tube. Since -the oil feed pump and scavenger pump are separate units, operated -individually, it is possible (due to faulty unit) for either to -function alone, thus affecting engine oil pressure and return of oil -to the tank. Action of the vent pipe (small pipe) located within the -oil tank is of a “breather” nature; its function not being indicated in -any manner. Before attempting to diagnose trouble in engine lubricating -system, rider must be familiar with and understand indications by -instrument panel signal lights (par. 7 =f=). - -=b. Red Signal Light Fails to Burn When Ignition and Light Switch is -Turned On.= - -(1) Check other lights to determine if battery is “up” and that switch -and wiring connections between battery and switch are in good order. -See that wire connection is secure and screw is tight on oil pressure -switch terminal. Failure of light to burn after these checks indicates -that either the lamp is burned out or oil pressure switch is faulty. - -(2) Test to eliminate the oil pressure switch by removing wire from -switch terminal; ground wire on switch body and note if red light burns -with ignition and light switch in “ON” position. If light burns, it -indicates that oil pressure switch is faulty, and must be replaced. -If light does not burn in making this test, it indicates that lamp is -burned out. Remove panel cover (par. 119) and replace lamp. - -=c. Red Signal Light Continues to Burn After Engine Is Operated Above -Idling Speeds.= - -(1) Check oil supply in tank. If light fails to go out after engine -is warm, or after 1 minute of operation, further checks must be made -to locate trouble, as indication points to faulty engine lubrication -system, or fault in signal circuit. Eliminate the signal system first. - -(2) Test oil pressure signal switch to panel signal light circuit. -Remove wire from oil pressure switch terminal by turning on ignition -and light switch and observing red signal light. If light burns, short -circuit in wiring exists. If light does not burn, it indicates normal -condition, leaving oil pressure switch of the signal circuit to be -tested. - -(3) Install new oil pressure switch and start engine. If red signal -light goes out after engine is operated above idling speeds, it -indicates trouble in oil pressure signal switch. If red signal light -continues to burn, it indicates trouble in oil feed pump. Replace pump -(par. 44). - -=d. Excessive Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues from -Gear Case Breather Outlet.= This is an indication that the scavenger -pump is not draining engine crankcase and returning oil to tank. With -engine running at idle speed, examine oil return in tank. Remove tank -oil cap, and with a small flashlight (tactical situation permitting), -observe whether or not oil is dripping from 1/8-inch hole in oil return -tube. Hole is on under side of tube and is located just back of oil -gage rod tube. If observation is poor, place finger over hole and -feel for pulsation of oil pressure. If oil does not return to tank, -scavenger pump is faulty. Should the crankcase breather valve be -incorrectly timed, smoke will issue from the exhaust, but not as -noticeably as when scavenger pump is not working. Refer to step e below -for this condition. - -=e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists Around -Cylinder Exhaust Ports= (=where exhaust pipes enter cylinders=). Engine -scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are one unit, operated by -worm gear located behind engine shaft pinion gear. Although scavenger -pump is not “timed,” the breather valve sleeve which drives it must be -timed to balance the engine lubricating system. If for any reason the -scavenger pump unit is removed from engine base, the breather valve -must be retimed (within the gear case) when pump assembly is replaced. -Incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil past piston rings, -causing some smoke, besides forcing oil out through exhaust ports, -causing excessive oily condition around exhaust pipes where they enter -cylinder ports. - - -31. FUEL SYSTEM. - -=a.= Many symptoms which might be attributed to the air‐fuel system -are, in reality, due to faulty ignition. Before attempting any but the -obviously required adjustments, check the ignition system thoroughly. -Gasoline tank supply valve is a dual purpose valve, and its operation -is explained in paragraph 5 =b=. - -=b.= Shut off gasoline supply valve. Disconnect fuel line at strainer, -open valve, and observe free flow of fuel from pipe. If line is -plugged, remove, clean out, and replace. - -=c.= Remove, disassemble, clean, and install fuel strainer (par. 72). - -=d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water in Fuel.= -Remove drain screw from carburetor bowl, drain bowl, and replace screw. -Take care not to cross drain screw threads when replacing. If there is -still evidence of water, dirt, or other foreign matter after bowl is -drained, replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71). Remove air cleaner oil -cup and inspect for evidence of water in oil. Drain, clean, refill to -correct level mark, and replace cup. Should above procedure fail to -eliminate trouble, drain fuel tank by removing drain plug located under -tank in forward position. Replace drain plug and refill tank with fuel. - -=e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds.= Carburetor -low speed circuit in need of adjustment (par. 68). Carburetor high -speed circuit is controlled by a fixed jet. - -=f. Impossible to Obtain Satisfactory Carburetor Adjustment: Lean -Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 Miles per Hour Speeds.= Carburetors -in service for some time become dirty and crust forms in the throttle -barrel, making satisfactory low speed adjustment difficult, if not -impossible. Replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71). - -=g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor.= Evidence of dirt in float valve, -incorrect float level, or faulty float. Replace carburetor (pars. 70 -and 71). - -=h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich.= Air cleaner oil -cup overfilled, or cleaner elements exceptionally dirty, choking off -adequate air supply to carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If oil cup -level is correct, remove, clean, and install cleaner elements (par. 76). - - -32. IGNITION SYSTEM. - -=a.= When checking ignition system for trouble, make the most obvious -and simple checks first. For example: Turn on ignition and light -switch, observe lights to ascertain battery current supply; then check -to see that current is reaching spark coil, circuit breaker, etc. -Faulty spark plugs are responsible for the great majority of engine -ignition troubles. There is no service for spark plugs other than -sandblast cleaning and correct adjustment of electrodes. Questionable -spark plugs must be replaced (par. 83). - -=b.= Remedy all poor connections in ignition wiring system (fig. 48). - -=c.= Remove circuit breaker cover, operate engine with starter pedal, -and observe opening and closing of circuit breaker points. Correct -point gap when breaker lever fiber is on highest point of cam is 0.022 -inch. For adjustment refer to paragraph 84. - -=d. Testing for High Tension Spark.= Spark at plug gaps depends -upon condition and operation of circuit breaker points, condition of -condenser, and condition of spark coil and high‐tension cables. Testing -the ignition system is best done by means of elimination, testing -each unit by replacement until trouble is located; then replacing -serviceable units which were removed. - -(1) Remove spark plug cable terminal from either plug, leaving other -cable and plug connected (to effect ground return of high‐tension -current); turn engine until circuit breaker points are closed; turn -ignition and light switch on; hold high tension cable terminal 1/4 inch -from cylinder; open and close circuit breaker points with finger and -observe spark jump at gap. If spark jumps gap, it indicates ignition -primary and secondary circuits are complete. - -(2) No spark at high‐tension gap calls for testing of primary and -secondary circuits. Turn engine until breaker points are held open; -hold cable end 1/4 inch from cylinder; turn ignition switch on and with -the bit of a screwdriver, make a good ground connection between breaker -movable (lever) point, and the ground. If a good spark is obtained -at high‐tension cable terminal gap when ground connection made by -screwdriver is broken, clean or replace faulty breaker points (par. 84). - -(3) If circuit breaker points are in good condition, but no spark (or -a very weak spark) occurs at high‐tension gap, replace condenser (par. -85) and repeat test under step (1) above. If replacement of condenser -does not remedy trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89). - -(4) If tests made under steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show ignition -system to be in good order (no units having been replaced), and -ignition trouble still exists, it means that breaker points, condenser, -and spark coil must be replaced with new units and engine road test -made with each replacement until trouble has been located and remedied. - -=e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard, -Overheats or Misses.= Clearly an indication that spark plugs are -faulty. Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast, regap points between -0.028 inch to 0.030 inch and reinstall. Replace defective plugs with -new ones of correct (No. 2) heat range (par. 83). - -=f. Engine Misses After Warm‐up, or When Quite Hot.= Replacement of -spark plugs should remedy this trouble. If it does not, then either the -condenser or spark coil is at fault. Replace condenser first (par. 85). -If new condenser fails to correct trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89). - - -33. GENERATING SYSTEM. - -=a. Panel Green Signal Light Continues to Burn Above 20 Miles -per Hour.= Correct faulty wiring and connections between battery -and generator. Refer to figure 55. Inspect condition of relay and, -if necessary, replace (par. 95). Inspect brushes and commutator of -generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. 91). If brushes are -sticking in holders or badly worn, replace generator (pars. 93 and 94). - -=b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Although Green -Signal Light Behavior Is Satisfactory.= Test battery: if it will not -hold charge, or is defective, replace (par. 113). If the machine is -used most of the time for night operation, have a higher echelon -increase the generating charging rate. Inspect brushes and commutator -of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. 91). If brushes are -badly worn or sticking in holders, replace generator (pars. 93 and 94). - - -34. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. - -=a. Panel Lamps Do Not Light When Switch Is Turned On.= Examine -each lamp and if burned out, replace (par. 120). Examine battery; if -discharged, replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring and connections -(fig. 71). Test light switch: if defective, replace (par. 116). Test -blackout light switch (in lamp body): if defective, replace lamp (par. -114). - -=b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine Is -Accelerated.= Test battery with hydrometer. If it is not fully charged, -replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring, connections, and switches -in circuit (fig. 73). If the battery runs down again after a short -period of operation, have the generator output increased (refer to a -higher echelon). - -=c. Lights Exceed Normal Brilliancy When Accelerating Engine.= -Examine battery: if defective, replace (par. 113). Remedy faulty wiring -and connections (fig. 73). Do not forget the ground connection of the -lamp body. - -=d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to Light.= If -the unit is burned out, replace it (par. 115). If the brake pedal is -not operating switch, remedy the faulty operation. Remedy all faulty -wiring and connections (fig. 73). - -=e. Horn Does Not Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Is Turned -On and Horn Button Is Pressed.= Test battery by turning on lights. If -lights are dim, replace battery (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring -and connections (fig. 73). If the horn does not respond to adjustment, -replace (par. 117). - - -35. TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH. - -=a.= Need for attention to clutch and controls is indicated by clutch -slipping under load or dragging (transmission gears will shift hard and -clash) when in disengaged position. In either case, the first thing to -be checked is adjustment of controls; this being the attention usually -needed. Indication that gear shifter controls are in need of adjustment -is when transmission gears “jump” out of engagement when accelerating -vehicle or when under heavy pull. CAUTION: _This warning must not be -disregarded._ - -(1) CLUTCH SLIPS WHEN FULLY ENGAGED. Adjust clutch control (par. 48). -Adjust clutch spring tension (par. 48). If the clutch still slips, -replace either the disks, springs, or both (par. 48). - -(2) CLUTCH DRAGS WHEN FULLY DISENGAGED. Adjust control (par. 48). -Adjust spring tension (par. 48). - -(3) CLUTCH RATTLES WHEN IN DISENGAGED POSITION, ENGINE IDLING. In -this case, the clutch probably was not properly assembled. Refer to -paragraph 51 =a=. - -(4) TRANSMISSION “JUMPS” OUT OF GEAR UPON ACCELERATING VEHICLE, OR WHEN -UNDER HEAVY PULL. Adjust shifter lever control linkage (par. 54). - -(5) TRANSMISSION GEARS SHIFT HARD OR CLASH WHEN CLUTCH IS FULLY -DISENGAGED. Adjust clutch control linkage and spring tension (par. 48). -Make sure the transmission mounting bolts and units are tight (pars. -57 and 58). Drain and fill transmission with correct lubricant (fig. -10). If the above methods fail to cure the symptom, refer to a higher -authority. - - -36. WHEELS AND CHAINS. - -=a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show Excessive -Wear on One Side of Teeth.= Adjust the position of the rear wheel axle -to aline the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission sprocket (par. -60). If they cannot be alined, the frame is out of alinement, and the -trouble must be referred to a higher authority. - -=b. Chains Produce Grinding Noise with Engine Idling and Vehicle on -Rear Stand.= If either chain is adjusted too tight, adjust to proper -tension (pars. 59 and 60). Examine both chains for presence of dirt -and grit. If dirty, clean and lubricate them (par. 20 =c= (10)). If -either chain is dry, adjust chain oilers (par. 61). Badly worn chains -and sprockets will cause this symptom; the worn parts must be replaced -(pars. 62 and 63). - -=c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance.= The chain in -this condition has not been receiving enough lubrication. Adjust chain -oiler (par. 61). If the chain is damaged from lack of oil, replace -(par. 62). - -=d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed.= Chains are too -loose. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60). - -=e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel.= Adjust bearing cones -(par. 126). If the cones and or hub races are badly worn, replace wheel -(par. 125). - -=f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (not -in brake).= The wheel bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 125). - -=g. Rear Wheel Has Excessive Side Play at Rim of Wheel.= The hub -bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 127). - -=h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play in Excess of 0.010 inch on Axle.= The -thrust washers of hub are worn or damaged. Replace wheel (par. 127). - -=i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise= -(=chain removed=). Tighten wheel mounting screws. If this does not -correct noise, replace wheel (par. 127). - - -37. BRAKES. - -=a. Rear Brake Does Not Hold When Foot Pedal Is Depressed.= If the -brake linings are wet, operate the vehicle and apply a slight pressure -to the brake pedal to dry out linings. After drying the linings adjust -brake rod length (par. 96 b). If the brake operating lever stands ahead -of the vertical position with brake applied, or the brake does not -hold, replace the defective brake shoes (par. 96). - -=b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used.= Tighten side plate -sleeve nut, if it is loose. Adjust shoe position (par. 96). If the -operating camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn, replace the -assembly (par. 96). If the brake shoe spring is defective, replace -(par. 96). If the lining on the brake shoes is loose, worn, or -defective, replace shoes (par. 96). If the brake drum is worn or -damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly (par. 96). - -=c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand).= Adjust linkage (par. -96). If it still drags, equalize shoe assemblies, and adjust linkage -(par. 96). - -=d. Front Brake Does Not Hold When Hand Lever Is Operated.= Adjust -brake control (par. 97). If brakes are wet, operate vehicle a short -distance with slight pressure on brake lever to dry out linings. If -brake does not hold, replace shoes (par. 97). - -=e. Front Brake Drags.= Adjust control linkage (par. 97). If brake -still drags, equalize shoes and readjust control linkage (par. 97). - -=f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters.= Adjust control linkage -assembly (par. 97). If malfunction continues, examine brake shoes, -shoe spring, camshaft bearing and side cover bearing. Replace any -defective parts or assemblies (par. 97). - - -38. STEERING. - -=a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side.= Inspect and correct alinement of -rear wheel (par. 60). If the front forks are bent or twisted, replace -(par. 98). If trouble persists, refer to higher authority. - -=b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side.= Adjust steering damper to -suit speed and road conditions. If this fails, inflate tires to correct -pressure. Make sure rear wheel mounting screws are tight. If the -steering head bearings are too tight, weaving will result. Check the -steering head bearings (par. 98), and adjust if necessary. - -=c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed.= Inflate tires to correct -pressure. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road conditions. If -the tire tread is unevenly worn, and shifting tires does not correct -the condition, replace the defective casings. Make sure the axle nuts -are tight. If the rocker plate studs and bushings are badly worn, or -the fork springs are broken, replace (par. 98). - - - - -Section XI - -ENGINE - - - Paragraph - Description and data 39 - Tune‐up 40 - Replacement of head gasket 41 - Carbon removal 42 - Valve tappet adjustment 43 - Replacement of oil feed pump 44 - - -39. DESCRIPTION AND DATA. - -=a. Description.= This 2‐cylinder, V‐type, air‐cooled gasoline engine -of L‐head design operates on the 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle principle. Flywheel -and connecting rod assemblies operate on roller bearings. Engine is -fitted with low‐expansion aluminum alloy, cam‐ground, horizontally -slotted pistons and with deep‐finned aluminum cylinder heads. As viewed -from left side of vehicle (drive chain side), rotation of engine is -counterclockwise. - -=b.= Lubrication system is of dry‐sump type, in which oil supply -is maintained in a tank away from engine. Oil is circulated by a -supply feed pump and a scavenger, return pump. This oil circulating -system plays a most important part in cooling the engine as well as -lubricating it. - -=c. Data.= - - Type of engine 2‐cylinder, V‐type, L‐head, - air‐cooled - Cylinder bore 2-3/4 in. - Stroke 3-13⁄16 in. - Piston displacement 45.12 cu in. - Compression ratio 5.0:1 - Horsepower (N.A.C.C. Rating) 6.05 - - Engine number (serial), left side of engine base, just below front - cylinder. - - -40. TUNE‐UP. - -=a.= Tune‐up consists of making correct adjustment to valve tappets, -circuit breaker ignition points, spark plug electrodes: checking and -correcting ignition timing; draining and flushing carburetor bowl; -cleaning and flushing gasoline strainer; cleaning muffler outlet, -servicing air cleaner, and adjusting carburetor. - -(1) Valve tappet adjustment (par. 43). - -(2) Circuit breaker point adjustment (par. 84). - -(3) Spark plug service (par. 83). - -(4) Timing ignition (par. 86). - -(5) Draining carburetor bowl (par. 73). - -(6) Cleaning fuel strainer (par. 72). - -(7) Cleaning muffler outlet requires freeing outlet of carbon deposits, -caked dirt, oil, etc., with blade of screwdriver, or other suitable -tool. Do not enlarge outlet size when cleaning. - -(8) Servicing air cleaner (par. 76). - -(9) Adjusting carburetor (par. 68). - -[Illustration: - - A—CYLINDER BRACKET SPACERS AND WASHERS - B—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME BOLT - C—CYLINDER UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET - D—SPARK CABLE CLIP - E—CYLINDER BRACKET BOLTS - F—OIL RETURN PIPE CONNECTION HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHERS - -RA PD 315711 - -_Figure 15—Disassembly for Head Gasket Replacement_] - - -41. REPLACEMENT OF HEAD GASKET (fig. 15). - -=a. Removal.= Refer to figure 15, illustrating necessary parts and -units to be removed to perform this operation. - -(1) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -(2) Remove gasoline tank and oil tank (par. 107). - -(3) Remove cylinder head bracket to frame lug bolt: this will free -clamp which secures front spark plug cable. Pay particular attention -to shim washers placed between cylinder head bracket and frame lug, as -these washers must be replaced when installing cylinder head. - -(4) Remove spark plug, or plugs. - -(5) Remove cylinder head bolts, using head bolt wrench 41-W-1525. NOTE: -_On some 42 WLA models, plain washers (0.095-inch thick), in addition -to regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers, were used to prevent -cylinder head bolts from bottoming._ - -(6) Perform carbon removal (head only). Refer to paragraph 42. - - -=b. Installing Gasket and Head= (fig. 15). - -(1) Clean top of cylinder. Apply a light application of grease or oil -to both sides of gasket before locating on cylinder head. Place head on -cylinder. - -(2) Install head bolts, using heavy washers (also 0.095-inch thick -plain washers, if any were removed). If in doubt as to use of -0.095-inch thick washers in addition to regular washers, measure depth -of bolt holes in cylinder head. Head having hole depth of 31/32 inch -must use the 0.095-inch thick washers in addition to regular washers. -Head having bolt hole depth of 1-1/16 inch does not require the -0.095-inch thick washers. - -(3) Install cylinder frame bracket with the two long bolts, special -(spool‐shaped) spacers, and flat washers. The spacers go between -cylinder heads and frame bracket. A flat washer goes under the head of -each long cylinder bolt, above the bracket; some engines may have flat -washers between the spacers and the bracket. - -(4) Tighten head bolts evenly to ensure a tight cylinder head joint. -Use head bolt wrench 41-W-1525, first turning down bolts just snug, -then tightening each bolt 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time, until all are -securely tightened. If torque wrench is available, tighten head bolts -to 60 foot‐pounds minimum, 65 foot‐pounds maximum tension when engine -is cold. - - -42. CARBON REMOVAL. - -=a.= At time cylinder head is removed for gasket replacement, carbon -must be removed from head only. - - -43. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT (fig. 16). - -=a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold.= Before loosening valve spring -covers, a light application of oil around top edge of each cover will -facilitate raising cover without damage to seal packing. - -(1) Loosen valve spring covers; use tappet and valve cover wrench -41-W-3617. - -(2) Before checking or adjusting tappet clearance, make sure valve is -seated and that tappet is at lowest position, by turning engine ahead -until like tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being adjusted) -in the other cylinder is at highest position (valve fully open). Inlet -valves are located nearest the carburetor manifold. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310211 - -_Figure 16—Valve Tappet Adjustment_] - -(4) Loosen adjusting screw lock nut (“2,” fig. 16) slightly before -turning adjusting screw (fig. 16). - -(5) Adjust inlet valve tappets to 0.004-inch minimum, and 0.005-inch -maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” fig. -16). Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if -necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened. - -(6) Adjust exhaust valve tappets to 0.006-inch minimum, and 0.007-inch -maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet. Use thickness gage to -determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after -lock nut has been securely tightened. - -(7) Before turning down valve spring covers, inspect paper gasket -between each cover and tappet guide. If broken or damaged, fit a new -gasket to prevent oil leak. Turn down and securely tighten valve spring -covers. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315712 - -_Figure 17—Oil Pump Removed_] - - -44. REPLACEMENT OF OIL FEED PUMP (fig. 17). - -=a. Removal.= - -(1) Disconnect oil tank feed pipe at oil tank. Install nipple cap on -tank nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect -oil feed pipe from oil pump nipple. - -(2) Oil pump is secured to engine gear case cover by one hexagon head -bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to provide wrench -clearance, and their location should be noted so they will be put back -where they belong when reinstalling pump. After removing screw and -nuts, remove pump. Unless a new pump gasket is available, take care -not to damage or break the old one, as this is a very special gasket -concerning both thickness and holes provided for oil channels. A -“homemade” gasket may put oiling system completely out of commission. - -=b. Installing Oil Pump.= - -(1) Clean surface of pump body mounting on gear case cover and see that -gasket is in good condition. Clean face of oil pump body. - -(2) Start pump on mounting studs, turn engine slowly and press lightly -against pump until driving dogs on end of cam gear shaft line up with -and drop into driving slot in oil pump rotor. - -(3) Insert hexagon‐head bolt and lock washer, and install the three -lock washers and nuts (two are long extension nuts) on pump mounting -studs. Make sure to replace the two extra long nuts on the studs from -which they were originally removed. - -(4) Tighten mounting bolt and three nuts securely. - -(5) Connect oil feed pipe to oil pump nipple. Remove nipple cap from -tank nipple and connect upper end of oil feed pipe to this nipple. -Tighten nipple nuts securely. - - - - -Section XII - -ENGINE—REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION - - - Paragraph - Remove engine 45 - Install engine 46 - - -=45. REMOVE ENGINE= (figs. 18, 19, and 20). - -=a.= A study of figures 18 and 19 will provide a good picture of the -steps necessary for engine removal. Do not attempt any short cut -methods, as this would consume more time and possibly cause damage to -parts or unit assemblies. - -(1) Disconnect battery ground wire at frame lug connection on right -side of vehicle. - -(2) To disconnect brake front rod from bell crank (located on right -side of rear support rod), remove cotter pin and plain washer. - -(3) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut and remove footboard front -stud nut, then pull footboard outward to free right front end of safety -guard. Disconnect brake front rod at bell crank. Remove bolt which -secures front exhaust pipe clamp. Remove nut from rear support rod, -freeing stop light switch and rear end of side bar. Remove nut from -front support rod, freeing footboard and brake assembly for removal. - -(4) Remove the two rear mounting bolts and drop rear end of skid plate -(fig. 37). - -(5) Remove muffler (par. 81). - -(6) Disconnect oil pipe from tank and install nipple cap on oil tank -feed pipe nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. -Disconnect pipe from oil pump and remove oil pipe. - -(7) Disconnect spark control wire at circuit breaker lever, and free -control housing clamp at cylinder base. - -(8) Disconnect brake rear rod from bell crank. - -(9) Disconnect red wire and black wire from front end of relay; also -green wire from generator terminal. - -(10) Remove spark plugs. - -(11) Remove engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) bracket to -frame lug bolt: this also frees front spark plug cable clamp. Pay -particular attention to shim washers (if any) between cylinder head -bracket and frame lug; these will have to be installed in the original -position. - -(12) Remove lever bottom bolt, freeing gear shifter lever from shifter -rod. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315713 - - =A=—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING - NUTS AND WASHERS - =B=—SPARK CONTROL WIRE AND HOUSING - =C=—ENGINE SPROCKET, KEY, NUT AND FRONT DRIVE CHAIN - =D=—ENGINE SPROCKET SHAFT - =E=—REAR SUPPORT ROD - =F=—INNER CHAIN GUARD - =G=—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY - =H=—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND - COTTER PIN - =J=—SPARK COIL REAR TERMINAL NUT, WASHER AND SCREW - =K=—OUTER CHAIN GUARD - =L=—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS - =M=—AIR CLEANER HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING - SCREWS - =N=—ENGINE LEFT REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLT CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND - COTTER PIN - =O=—REAR SUPPORT ROD EXTENDED NUT - =P=—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS - =Q=—FUEL PIPE AND STRAINER ASSEMBLY - =R=—ENGINE LEFT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND - COTTER PIN - =S=—GEAR SHIFTER AND ROD ATTACHING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT - =T=—TANK, LOWER FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT - =U=—ENGINE SPROCKET NUT WRENCH - -RA PD 315713B - -_Figure 18—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Left Side_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 315714 - - =A=—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS AND NUTS - =B=—SKID PLATE - =C=—STOP LIGHT SWITCH - =D=—REAR BRAKE ROD FRONT END - =E=—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME MOUNTING BOLT, SPACING WASHERS, - SPARK CABLE CLIP AND NUT - =F=—ENGINE RIGHT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND - COTTER PIN - =G=—RELAY TERMINAL SCREWS AND WASHERS - =H=—SAFETY GUARD END - =J=—RIGHT FOOTBOARD, BRAKE PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING - NUTS AND WASHERS - =K=—FRONT EXHAUST PIPE CLAMP, BOLT, WASHER AND NUT - =L=—EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY - =M=—SPARK PLUGS AND GASKETS - =N=—REAR SUPPORT ROD, WASHER AND NUT - =O=—BRAKE ROD BELLCRANK - =P=—ENGINE REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND - COTTER PIN - =Q=—OIL FEED PIPE - =R=—VENT PIPE HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHER - =S=—VENT PIPE - =T=—OIL RETURN PIPE - -RA PD 315714B - -_Figure 19—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Right Side_] - -(13) Close fuel tank valve. Remove gasoline pipe from tank nipple and -fuel filter nipple. - -(14) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever. - -(15) Disconnect air intake hose connection fitting from carburetor -(four screws) and leave attached to hose. Remove air cleaner from -mounting bracket (par. 78). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310215 - -_Figure 20—Removing Engine_] - -(16) Remove front chain guard (par. 102). - -(17) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65). - -(18) Remove two screws and locks securing inner chain guard to -crankcase. - -(19) With 13/16-inch deep socket wrench slipped over rear footboard -support rod stud, remove extended nut, and withdraw support rod from -right side of vehicle. - -(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker to coil wire and shielding -ground from coil rear terminals, disconnect oil pressure signal light -wire from oil pressure switch terminal. It will be necessary to free -air cleaner mounting bracket and swing it outward, to gain access to -coil rear shielding ground terminal. - -(21) Engine mounting bolts are secured by cotter pins and castle nuts. -Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under generator; this -bolt cannot be removed without removing generator; merely push it up -far enough to clear frame engine lug when engine is removed from frame. - -(22) Lift and remove engine from right side of frame. - - -=46. INSTALL ENGINE= (figs. 18, 19, and 20). - -a.= Installing the engine is generally the reverse of the procedure -=followed in engine removal. Pay close attention to the following -procedure because checking and adjustment of controls and other items -is necessary to satisfactory vehicle operation. - -(1) Lift engine into frame from right side of vehicle. Make sure that -mounting bolt under generator is raised to clear frame engine lug. - -(2) Pass remaining three engine mounting bolts up from under side of -frame lugs through crankcase lugs: install plain washers and castle -nuts. Fit plain washer and castle nut on mounting bolt under generator. -Securely tighten all four castle nuts and lock with cotter pins. - -(3) Connect circuit breaker to coil wire. Connect wire to coil rear -terminal and ground shielding on coil case terminal. - -(4) Connect oil pressure switch wire to switch terminal. - -(5) Pass rear footboard support rod through frame lug from right side -of vehicle and install the extended 13/16-inch nut. - -(6) Secure inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks -mounting inner chain guard to engine base. Drift edge of locks into -screw slots for security. - -(7) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain together. See that -engine shaft is clean, sprocket taper clean, and that key is in place -before tightening sprocket nut. Drift nut tight, using hammer on wrench. - -(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102). - -(9) Connect hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers, -and nuts securing air cleaner to frame bracket; then install four -screws securing hose fitting to carburetor. NOTE: _If cleaner frame -bracket was loosened and shifted to gain access to coil rear terminals, -securely mount bracket before installing air cleaner assembly._ - -(10) Connect throttle control wire to carburetor lever. Make sure that -throttle closes fully when right grip is turned outward; and that -throttle opens fully when grip is turned inward. - -(11) Install fuel pipe. Securely tighten union nuts on tank and fuel -strainer nipples. Open fuel supply valve and check connections for -leaks. - -(12) Connect gear shifter lever end to gear shifter rod by tightening -bolt and nut. - -(13) Attach engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to -frame lug, exercising care in installing required number of thin shims, -together with clamp for front spark plug cable, to fill space between -bracket and frame lug before tightening bolt nut. NOTE: _Frame lug must -be free from paint or grease to make clean “electrical” connection with -plated shims and mounting bracket for adequate radio bonding._ - -(14) Before installing spark plugs, inspect for cleanliness and correct -electrode adjustment. Service if necessary (par. 83). Replace gaskets -to ensure tight joints. - -(15) Connect red and black wires to relay: connect green wire to -generator terminal marked “SWITCH.” Refer to wiring diagram (fig. 73). - -(16) Attach rear brake rod to bell crank. Install plain washer and -secure with cotter pin. - -(17) Connect spark control wire to circuit breaker lever and secure -control wire housing clamp under cylinder base nut. Make sure that -spark advances fully (lever inward) when control grip (left handle -bar) is turned inward, and that spark retards fully when control grip -is turned outward. Make needed adjustment at control wire and lever -connection. - -(18) Remove nipple cap from tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and -connect oil feed pipe, securely tightening union nuts at tank and oil -pump. - -(19) Position exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach rear hanger -frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure muffler front mounting bracket -bolt, but do not tighten nut until skid plate rear bracket is located -on this bolt. - -(20) Lift rear end of skid plate, secure rear mounting bracket and -muffler front mounting bracket with bolt, washer, and nut. Attach skid -plate left side bracket, tightening support rod nut and bracket bolt -and nut. - -(21) Install right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly. -Install stop light switch bracket on rear support rod before placing -lock washer and tightening nut. Attach front exhaust pipe clamp to -sidebar. Install lock washer, and tighten sidebar front support rod -nut. Attach right end of front safety guard to sidebar with footboard -front support stud. Replace lock washer, and tighten nut. Also tighten -footboard rear support stud nut. Connect stop light switch control to -brake foot pedal. - -(22) Attach brake front rod to bell crank; fit plain washer and secure -with cotter pin. - -(23) Connect battery ground wire to frame lug on right side of vehicle. - -=b.= Check instrument panel signal lights for normal indications, and -see that oil is in tank before starting engine. - - - - -Section XIII - -CLUTCH - - - Paragraph - Description 47 - Maintenance and adjustment 48 - Removal of disks 49 - Inspection of disks and springs 50 - Installation of disks 51 - Replacement of clutch release bearing 52 - - -=47. DESCRIPTION= (fig. 21). - -=a.= Clutch is of simple multiple‐dry‐disk type, having two steel disks -and three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within disk -pack to “cushion” clutch operation. - - -=48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT= (figs. 22, 23, 24, and 25). - -=a.= If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will -cause very little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life -of transmission gear shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full -disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely, -control linkage and spring tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension -before correcting control adjustment. - -=b. Clutch Control Linkage= (fig. 22). Operation of foot pedal, -control cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod through -hollow transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at will. -Correct adjustment to control cable and release lever must be made -before push rod adjustment is made. - - -=c. Clutch Control Adjustment= (figs. 23, 24, 25, and 26). - -(1) ADJUSTING CABLE LENGTH. With clutch in fully disengaged position -(foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the -countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by 1/16 inch. Should clutch -release lever strike sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement -is restricted, and clutch cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control -cable must be adjusted to obtain 1/16-inch clutch release lever and -sprocket cover stud and/or nut clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch -control cable, cable adjustable end must be removed from foot pedal -stud (figs. 23 and 24). With foot pedal in forward (toe down) position, -remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable end. Release other end -of cable from notch in clutch release lever by pressing release lever -inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the foot pedal to rear -(heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off foot pedal stud. -Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to shorten -cable; turn to left (counter‐clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten -lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and -cotter pin, and install other end of cable in clutch release lever -notch. - -[Illustration: - - =A=—CLUTCH HUB COMPLETE, WITH LINER, BEARING, STUDS, ETC. - =B=—HUB DISK LINING. - =C=—LINING RIVET (6 USED). - =D=—PIN (7 USED). - =E=—STUD. - =F=—SPROCKET COMPLETE WITH DISK SPLINE RING. - =G=—LINED DISKS (2 USED). - =H=—PLAIN STEEL DISKS (2 USED). - =J=—SPRUNG STEEL DISK WITH ONE LINING. - =K=—RELEASING DISK (WITH PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW AND - ADJUSTING SCREW). - =L=—CLUTCH SPRINGS (10 USED). - =M=—STUD NUT LOCKING WASHER (3 USED). - =N=—STUD NUT (3 USED). - =O=—SPRING COMPRESSION COLLAR. - =P=—PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW. - =Q=—ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT. - =R=—RETAINING PLATE LOCK RING (3 USED). - =S=—BEARING RETAINING PLATE. - =T=—60 7/32-INCH STEEL BALLS. - =U=—BALL BEARING RETAINER. - -RA PD 310218 - -_Figure 21—Clutch, Disassembled_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310219 - -_Figure 22—Clutch Control Linkage_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310220 - -_Figure 23—Clutch Lever and Stud Nut Clearance_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310221 - -_Figure 24—Control Cable Length Adjustment_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 315715 - -_Figure 25—Clutch Adjustments_] - -(2) ADJUSTING CLEARANCE OF CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER AND PUSH ROD (fig. 25). -With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance correctly -adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have between -1/8-inch and 1/4-inch free play at end where control cable engages lever -notch (fig. 25). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch without -pressure on clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means of push -rod adjusting screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two screws -which secure inspection hole cover to chain guard (fig. 25). If clutch -release lever has less than 1/8-inch free play at end of cable, loosen -push rod adjusting screw lock nut and turn push rod adjusting screw to -the left (counter‐clockwise) to increase amount of free play. If clutch -release lever has more than 1/4-inch free play at end of cable, turn -adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to decrease amount of free -play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is obtained. Replace -inspection hole cover. CAUTION: _If end of clutch release lever has no -free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when fully engaged. -If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when disengaged; -consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash, and eventually -become damaged._ - -[Illustration: RA PD 310223 - -_Figure 26—Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension_] - -=d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension= (fig. 26). If clutch slips (does -not hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation) after -controls have been correctly adjusted (step =c= (1) and (3) above), -spring tension must be increased. NOTE: _Do not increase spring tension -any more than actually required to make clutch hold._ - -(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102). - -(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts. - -(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension. -Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one‐half turn at a -time, until clutch holds. Test clutch after each half‐turn of the -three adjusting nuts by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds -without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the -road. - -(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock -lips to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged -locks. - -(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the -distance from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of -outer (releasing) disk is 1-3/32 inches (fig. 27). In any case, do -not tighten the three adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge -of shoulder of spring collar is closer than ⅞ inch to face of outer -(releasing) disk. If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully -disengaged. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310224 - -_Figure 27—Measuring Distance Between Spring Collar and Disk_] - -(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring -tension adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be -replaced (par. 49). - -(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front -chain guard (par. 102). - - -49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. 28, 29, and 30). - -=a.= Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or -replacing. Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing -without disturbing sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is -advisable to remove releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an -assembly because it is difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and -reassemble springs in this unit. If springs show signs of overheating, -and appear to be “set,” they should be removed, measured, and replaced -if necessary (par. 50). - -[Illustration: RA PD 315716 - -_Figure 28—Removing Spring and Outer Disk Assembly_] - -(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102). - -(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat -washer, approximately 1/8-inch thick, 1-3/4-inch in diameter with -a 3/8-inch center hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace -adjusting screw lock nut just removed (fig. 28). Tighten adjusting -screw lock nut against large washer until the three clutch spring -adjusting nuts are free. Bend nut lock down, remove the three adjusting -nuts, and withdraw releasing (outer) disk and spring assembly as one -unit. Remaining lined and plain steel disks can now be removed from -sprocket and clutch shell unit without further disassembly (fig. 30). -NOTE: _At time lined and plain disks are removed from shell, observe -relative position of each disk in order of correct assembly._ - - -50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS. - -=a. Worn Disk Liners.= When disk liners are worn down flush (or -nearly flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be -replaced. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315717 - -_Figure 29—Outer Assembly Removed, Exposing Clutch Disks_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 315718 - -_Figure 30—Clutch Disks, Removed_] - -=b. Loose Liner Rivets.= If disk liner rivets are loose, replace disk -and liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order. - -=c. Oil‐soaked Disk Liners.= If lined disks are not badly worn, but -are oil‐soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and dry with air -or heat. - -=d. Shrunken or Weak Springs.= If clutch has been badly overheated -as a result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or weakened -condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened springs -are indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been tightened -to make the clutch hold until the distance between spring collar and -releasing (outer) disk is ⅞ inch. If shrunken or weak springs are -suspected, remove them for inspection. - -(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut, -freeing spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer) -disk assembly. - -(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs -is approximately 1-1/2 inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch). -Old springs found to be shrunk 1/8 inch (total free length of spring -is 1-3/8 inch or less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: _Before -replacing springs, select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32 -inch to make up the assembly._ - -(3) ASSEMBLING RELEASING DISK, SPRINGS, AND SPRING COLLAR. Place the -10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each of the -10 stud holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends of -springs, locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the -springs. Place the large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten -adjusting screw nut, and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over -and observe alinement of springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert -a 3/8-inch rod through holes to aline springs. Tighten down adjusting -screw nut; assembly is now ready for complete clutch assembly. - - -51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. 30, 29, and 28). - -=a.= It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a lined -disk. Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices are -staggered on splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined on one -side) is the last of the pack, its lined side facing the steel disk. -Before installing disks, see that bearing retaining plate lock rings -(“R,” fig. 21) are in place on the short studs, and are tight against -the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the clutch. - -(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first. - -(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the -clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward. - -(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs. - -(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side -facing outward. - -(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on -clutch hub studs. - -(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded‐end, clutch hub -studs are not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted -that the three holes (keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not -spaced equidistantly. Therefore, when installing releasing disk and -spring assembly on clutch hub studs, the three threaded studs and holes -in spring collar must be alined. Install assembly on studs, replace -the three nut locks, replace the three adjusting nuts, and tighten all -three evenly until the distance between shoulder of spring collar and -face of releasing disk is 1-1/32 inch (fig. 27). - -(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock -nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod -adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been -installed. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315719 - -_Figure 31—Removing Clutch Releasing Bearing Assembly_] - -(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102). - -(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct -according to paragraph 48. - - -52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (fig. 31). - -=a.= Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push rod -assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk. - -=b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing.= Engage clutch fully (foot pedal -toe down) and disengage clutch control cable end from slotted end of -clutch release lever. - -(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear -chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to -transmission countershaft sprocket cover. - -(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission. - -(3) Remove filler plug. - -(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver. - -(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be -necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release -bearing is exposed. - -(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from -transmission shaft. - -=c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.= - -(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into -transmission shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is -clean and well greased. - -(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts. - -(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain -oiler pipe clamp to sprocket cover. - -(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release -lever. - -(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable. - - - - -Section XIV - -TRANSMISSION - - - Paragraph - Description 53 - Control linkage 54 - Replacement of foot starter crank 55 - Replacement of starter crank spring 56 - Remove transmission 57 - Install transmission 58 - - -53. DESCRIPTION. - -=a.= Transmission has three speeds: low, second, and high, and is of -the constant‐mesh, non‐selective type. High gear is direct drive. Since -“dogs” on gear shifter clutches are used to engage transmission gears, -it is of great importance that vehicle clutch is correctly adjusted. -Clutch must be fully disengaged when shifting gears, to prevent -clashing of gears, and possible damage to the shifter clutch “dogs” -and transmission gears. It is also important that gear shifter control -linkage be kept in correct adjustment to ensure full engagement of -shifter clutch driving dogs in all positions, thus preventing possible -damage caused by dogs jumping out of engagement under driving load. -Close fitting and needle roller bearings, within the transmission, -necessitate use of engine oil (seasonal grade) in transmission case for -adequate lubrication. - - -54. CONTROL LINKAGE (fig. 32). - -=a. Transmission Shifted to Adjust Front Drive Chain.= The -transmission is located to receive power from front (engine) drive -chain and transmit power through rear drive chain to rear wheel, and -is movable on its mounting for adjustment of the front (engine) drive -chain. When front (engine) drive chain is adjusted, transmission gear -shifter control linkage is affected. Therefore, after each front drive -chain adjustment, gear shifter control linkage must be checked, and, if -necessary, correctly adjusted to ensure proper gear shifting with full -engagement of the gear shifter clutch driving “dogs” as well as prevent -transmission from jumping out of gear under load. - -=b. Checking Gear Shifter Control Linkage.= Before making adjustment -to gear shifter control linkage, make the following checks: See that -all linkage points from transmission gear shifter lever to gear shifter -hand lever are well oiled and free‐working. Check hand lever pivot bolt -nut for tightness. Observe whether there is binding or interference -with shifter rod at any point in the shifting range; this sometimes -results from a bent snifter rod. Check whether or not shifter rod -is correctly adjusted so that when hand lever is moved to any gear -position in tank shifter guide, transmission lever moves to the proper -position to fully engage shifter clutch dogs and shifter cam spring -plunger in cam‐locating notch (inside transmission). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310229 - -_Figure 32—Adjusting Gear Shifter Rod_] - -=c. Adjusting Gear Shifter Control Linkage= (fig. 32). - -(1) Set hand lever in “N” (neutral) position in shifter guide. - -(2) Remove nut and bolt to disconnect shifter rod from hand lever. - -(3) With slight backward and forward movement of shifter rod, carefully -“feel” transmission lever into exact position where shifter cam spring -plunger (inside transmission) seats fully in cam‐locating notch. - -(4) Next, see that hand lever is in exact “N” (neutral) position in -tank shifter guide. - -(5) Readjust length of shifter rod by loosening rod end lock nut, and -turning rod end (onto or off rod as necessary) until its bolt hole -lines up with bolt hole in hand lever. - -(6) Replace bolt and tighten nut. - -(7) CHECK ADJUSTMENT. It is advisable to shift hand lever into “L” -(low) and “S” (second) gear positions and check shifter rod adjustment -to be sure of having best all‐round adjustment. - -(8) When shifter clutches become worn or damaged to the extent of -jumping out of engagement under driving load, even though shifter -control linkage is correctly adjusted, transmission must be removed and -referred to higher authority for service. - - -55. REPLACEMENT OF FOOT STARTER CRANK. - -=a. Remove.= - -(1) Remove starter crank clamp bolt nut and remove bolt from crank. - -(2) Pull starter crank off squared shaft. - -=b. Install.= In installing foot starter crank, notch (for clamp‐bolt -clearance) must be in upward position in squared shaft to put return -spring tension on crank. - -(1) Use a ⅝-inch, open‐end wrench and turn square shaft -counterclockwise until bolt slot is upward. Hold shaft in this position -and press starter crank onto shaft until clamping bolt can be inserted. - -(2) Insert clamp bolt with bolt head toward rear wheel (crank in upward -position) to provide clearance when starter crank is operated. - -(3) Fit lock washer and nut and tighten nut securely. - - -56. REPLACEMENT OF STARTER CRANK SPRING (fig. 33). - -=a.= Starter crank spring fits rather snugly behind rear edge of -countershaft sprocket cover; however, it can be removed and installed -without removing sprocket cover. - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55). - -(2) With the blade of a screwdriver or with pliers, pry hooked end of -spring off stud. NOTE: _If spring is broken, this operation will not -be necessary._ Pull on spring end, at same time prying spring free of -sprocket cover so as to pull spring off square shaft. - -=c. Install.= - -(1) Turn squared shaft so that clamp bolt notch is in bottom position. -Engage square hole in spring on shaft with the hooked spring end to -rear, in line with starter spring stud. Work spring onto shaft, prying -it to rear to clear sprocket cover. Press all the way on squared shaft. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315720 - -_Figure 33—Removing Starter Crank Spring_] - -(2) Hook end of spring in place on spring stud. - -(3) Install foot starter crank (par. 55). - - -=57. REMOVE TRANSMISSION= (figs. 34 and 35). - -=a.= Transmission and clutch are assembled in one unit and must -be removed and installed together. To make sure trouble is in -transmission, check clutch adjustment (par. 48) and transmission -control linkage (par. 54) before replacing a faulty unit. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315721 - - =A=—TOOL BOX AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT - =B=—BATTERY - =C=—BATTERY BOX REAR MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, FITTINGS AND NUTS - =D=—BATTERY BOX ASSEMBLY AND COVER - =E=—BATTERY BOX FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT - =F=—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY - =G=—FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTING SCREW - =H=—TRANSMISSION MOUNTING STUD NUTS AND WASHERS - =J=—REAR CHAIN OILER PIPE - =K=—REAR CHAIN GUARD FRONT MOUNTING BOLT AND WASHERS - =L=—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUTS - =M=—REAR BRAKE ROD ASSEMBLY, WASHER AND COTTER PIN - =N=—REAR CHAIN GUARD - =O=—REAR BRAKE CLEVIS PIN, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN - -RA PD 315721B - -_Figure 34—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Right Side_] - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Drop rear end of skid plate (par. 111). - -(2) Remove front chain guard (par. 102). - -(3) Remove oil bath air cleaner and mounting bracket (par. 80). Lower -bracket bolt also secures clutch cable tube to frame tube bracket on -left side. - -(4) Remove engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65). - -(5) Remove the two mounting screws and locks in engine case to free -inner front chain guard. - -(6) Remove tool box from mounting bracket (par. 106). Remove bracket -from frame. - -(7) Remove rear brake rod (par. 96). - -(8) Remove rear drive chain (par. 63). - -(9) Remove rear drive chain guard (par. 102). Remove rear chain oiler -pipe after disconnecting at oil pump. - -(10) Remove battery box (par. 105). - -(11) Remove nut, washer, and bolt securing clutch tube assembly bracket -to frame bracket on right side of vehicle. Disengage clutch operating -cable end from end of clutch release lever and remove cable and tube -assembly. - -(12) Remove gear shifter rod by disconnecting at hand shifter lever and -at transmission gear shifter lever. - -(13) Remove the three transmission mounting stud nuts, then remove lock -washers and large plain washers (located under frame bracket), and lift -transmission sufficiently to permit removal of front chain adjusting -screw. - -(14) Loosen upper U‐bolts on ignition coil mounting, then remove the -lower U‐bolt nuts and shift coil on frame tube as far as possible -toward the front. - -(15) Remove transmission and clutch assembly from vehicle by lifting -complete unit sufficiently to free mounting studs from frame bracket; -then rotate top of transmission backward about 1/4 turn (fig. 34) and -remove unit from left side of frame (fig. 35). - - -58. INSTALL TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35). - -=a. Install from Left Side.= Working from left side of frame, tilt -top of transmission backward, and as unit passes into position, rotate -top forward, until unit is squarely in position and mounting studs pass -through slots in frame mounting bracket. - -(1) Shift ignition coil mounting back into correct position and -tighten U‐bolt nuts. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315722 - -_Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left Side of -Vehicle_ - - =A=—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND - MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS - =B=—ENGINE SPROCKET, NUT, KEY AND FRONT CHAIN - =C=—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS - =D=—INNER CHAIN GUARD - =E=—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY - =F=—OUTER CHAIN GUARD - =G=—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT - AND COTTER PIN - =H=—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY - =J=—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS - =K=—SPARK COIL LOWER MOUNTING U‐BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS - =L=—CLUTCH CABLE AND HOUSING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS - AND NUTS - =M=—GEAR SHIFTER ROD ASSEMBLY WITH ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS, PIN - AND NUT - -RA PD 315722B - -_Legend for Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left -Side of Vehicle_] - -(2) Install front chain adjusting screw. Lift transmission to engage -screw in frame notch. - -(3) Install large plain washers, lock washers, and nuts on the three -transmission mounting studs. Do not tighten. - -(4) Install gear shifter rod by connecting to hand shifter lever and -transmission gear shifter lever. - -(5) Install clutch operating cable and tube assembly. Connect cable -end to clutch release lever. Position tube assembly bracket to frame -bracket and install bolt, washer, and nut to hold in place. - -(6) Install battery box (par. 105). - -(7) Install rear drive chain guard (par. 102). - -(8) Install rear drive chain (par. 63). - -(9) Install rear brake rod (par. 96). - -(10) Install tool box bracket and tool box (par. 106). - -(11) Secure inner front chain guard to engine base by installing screw -locks and screws. After screws are tightened, drift edge of each lock -into screw slot for security. - -(12) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65). - -(13) If necessary, adjust front drive chain (par. 59). - -(14) Securely tighten transmission mounting stud nuts. - -(15) Install outer front chain guard cover (par. 102). Connect rear -chain oiler pipe to oil pump. - -(16) Install air cleaner and mounting bracket, air hose, and -connections (par. 79). - -(17) Lift skid plate into position and install two mounting bolts, lock -washers, and nuts. - -(18) Check gear shifter control, and, if necessary, adjust linkage -(par. 54). - -(19) Check rear drive chain adjustment and adjust if necessary (par. -60). - -(20) Check rear brake adjustment. If necessary, adjust rear brake -linkage (par. 96). - -(21) Check clutch controls and adjust if necessary (par. 48). - -(22) Before operating vehicle, see that transmission oil level is up to -filler opening (vehicle standing upright). - - - - -Section XV - -CHAINS AND SPROCKETS - - - Paragraph - Adjust front chain 59 - Adjust rear chain and aline rear wheel 60 - Chain oilers 61 - Replacement of front chain 62 - Replacement of rear chain 63 - Chain repair tool 64 - Replacement of engine sprocket 65 - Replacement of countershaft sprocket 66 - - -=59. ADJUST FRONT CHAIN= (figs. 36, 37, and 38). - -=a.= At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for -correct lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par. -61). - -=b.= Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making tight -and loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and chain -rotated to position of least slack at the time adjustment is made. - -=c.= A correctly adjusted front chain has 1/2-inch, or slightly more, -free up‐and‐down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection -hole. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain -must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action -and/or strike the chain guard. - -=d.= Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on its -mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control -linkage, clutch control linkage, and rear chain. - -=e. How to Adjust Front Chain.= - -(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover -from front outer chain guard, exposing chain (fig. 36). - -(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of -least slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with -finger. Use a free up‐and‐down motion of the finger to make this test. - -(3) Loosen the three transmission mounting stud nuts underneath -transmission mounting base. (It is not necessary to drop skid plate -to reach stud nuts (fig. 37).) Transmission can now be shifted on its -mounting base by means of adjusting screw, head of which protrudes -through notch of frame fitting, located at rear of transmission (fig. -38). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310233 - -_Figure 36—Front Chain Inspection Hole Cover Removed_] - -(4) Turn adjusting screw clockwise (to the right) to move transmission -backward and tighten front chain. Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise -(to the left) to move transmission forward and loosen front chain. - -(5) After moving transmission by means of adjusting screw, check front -chain adjustment; then securely tighten the three transmission mounting -stud nuts and again check chain adjustment, as tightening stud nuts -sometimes changes chain adjustment. - -(6) After front chain adjustment has been made, securely tighten the -three transmission mounting stud nuts. - -(7) Install front chain inspection hole cover and tighten screws. - -(8) Check shifter lever control linkage adjustment (par. 54). - -(9) Check clutch control linkage adjustment (par. 48). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310234 - -_Figure 37—Skid Plate Dropped to Show Location of Transmission -Mounting Nuts_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310235 - -_Figure 38—Transmission Mounting Nuts and Chain Adjusting Screw_] - - -60. ADJUST REAR CHAIN AND ALINE REAR WHEEL (fig. 39). - -=a.= In moving transmission backward on its mounting to tighten -front chain, the rear chain will be loosened. Rear chain must then -be adjusted by moving rear wheel backward. When rear wheel is moved -either forward or backward, adjustment of the rear wheel brake is -affected. - -=b.= When checking rear chain for slack midway between the sprockets, -turn wheel and rotate chain to position of least slack. Use free -up‐and‐down movement of finger to lift chain and depress it to -determine tightest position. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310236 - -_Figure 39—Brake Sleeve Nut_] - -=c.= At position of least slack, a correctly adjusted rear chain has -1/2-inch, or slightly more, free up‐and‐down movement midway between -sprockets. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). -Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky -operation and/or strike the chain guard or other chassis parts. - -=d.= At the time rear chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for -correct lubrication and if necessary, adjust rear chain oiler (par. 61). - -=e.= Rear chain adjustment and rear wheel alinement are both made by -means of the rear wheel adjusting screws. Therefore, adjustment of -either the chain or the wheel alinement can affect adjustment of the -other, making it necessary to consider both adjustments at the same -time. - -(1) Remove rear axle nut and lock washer (right side of vehicle). - -(2) Loosen brake sleeve nut enough to allow brake assembly to slide -backward or forward in frame mounting (fig. 39). - -(3) Loosen the two (right and left side) rear wheel adjusting screw -lock nuts. - -(4) Turn wheel adjusting screws clockwise (to right) to move wheel and -sprocket backward. This tightens chain. NOTE: _If chain is too tight, -turn wheel adjusting screws counterclockwise (to left) so that wheel -can be shifted forward. This will loosen chain._ Always turn the two -wheel adjusting screws an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel -alined. - -(5) Check correct alinement of wheel by noting that tire (not tire -rim) runs approximately midway between lower rear frame tubes at the -point where tubes join transmission mounting. It is desirable to have -tire run slightly closer (not more than 1/16 in.) to right than to -left side lower tube. A further check of alinement is observing that -rear sprocket runs centrally in chain. CAUTION: _If rear wheel is not -correctly alined, vehicle steering will be affected, and sprockets will -wear excessively on one side._ - -(6) With adjustment of chain and wheel alinement completed, securely -tighten wheel adjusting screw lock nuts, and brake sleeve nut: replace -axle lock washer and nut, tightening nut. - -(7) Recheck adjustment of chain as tightening brake sleeve nut and axle -nut sometimes changes the chain adjustment. - -(8) After tightening rear chain, rear brake may be found too tight. -Check and correct brake adjustment (par. 96). - - -=61. CHAIN OILERS= (fig. 40). - -=a.= Both front and rear chains are automatically lubricated by -engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional -readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied operating -conditions. Chains under most operating conditions require a very small -amount of oil; therefore, chain oilers require very fine adjustment to -supply just enough oil without waste. - -=b.= When adjusting chain oilers, it is advisable to add or remove only -one thin washer at a time and inspect chain again after vehicle has run -approximately 100 miles, to determine whether or not further adjustment -is necessary. - -=c.= If inspection of front chain through inspection hole reveals that -chain is not getting enough oil, adjust front chain oiler as follows: - -(1) Add thin (0.002-inch thick) washer under head of front chain oiler -adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head -of screw. - -(2) To check results, refer to step =b= above. - -=d.= Evidence of too much oil on front chain requires cutting down on -chain oiler. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310237 - -_Figure 40—Chain Oilers_] - -(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002-inch thick) washer from under -head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). - -(2) To check results, refer to step =b= above. - -=e.= If inspection reveals that rear chain is not getting enough oil, -and that oil pipe end is open, is not bent, and is directed on chain; -then the rear chain oiler must be adjusted. - -(1) Adjust oiler by adding thin (0.002-inch thick) washer under head of -rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers -already under head of screw. - -(2) To check results, refer to step =b= above. - -=f.= Evidence of too much oil on rear chain (supplied by oiler) -requires cutting down on chain oiler. - -(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002-inch thick) washer from under -head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). - -(2) To check results, refer to step =b= above. - -=g.= At 1000-mile intervals, loosen both front and rear chain oiler -adjusting screws (fig. 40) two turns each. Do not remove screws. Start -and idle engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not force. -This operation serves to flush oiler control valves and rear chain -oiler pipe. - - -62. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT CHAIN. - -=a.= A new or original duplex front chain is endless, not provided with -connecting link, and engine sprocket must be removed in order to remove -or replace chain. - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102). - -(2) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65). Chain can now be lifted off -clutch sprocket. - -=c. Install.= When installing a new front chain and/or sprocket, it -may be necessary to shift transmission ahead in order to get chain on -(par. 59 e). - -(1) Clean engine shaft taper and sprocket hole. - -(2) Place chain on clutch sprocket teeth and install sprocket (par. 65). - -(3) Check chain adjustment (par. 59). - -(4) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102). - - -63. REPLACEMENT OF REAR CHAIN (fig. 41). - -=a. Remove.= Support vehicle on rear stand. With transmission in “N” -(neutral) position, turn rear wheel until chain connecting link is -located on rear sprocket teeth, about straight back from axle. - -(1) Using pliers, lift split end of connecting link spring clip out of -link pin notch, taking care not to damage spring clip. Remove spring -clip from other link pin notch. - -(2) Pull off link side plate and push link out of chain ends. Replace -connecting link and spring clip in one end of chain to prevent its loss. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310238 - -_Figure 41—Rear Drive Chain and Connecting Link_] - -(3) Pull on lower half of chain, guiding upper part while it rotates -around countershaft sprocket, until removed. If a new rear chain is to -be installed, one end can be linked to the upper half end of old chain -and can be pulled onto countershaft sprocket as old chain is removed. - -=b. Install.= When installing a new rear chain and/or countershaft -sprocket, it may be necessary to set rear wheel ahead in order to get -chain on (par. 60). - -(1) Start end of chain over countershaft sprocket teeth, using starter -crank to turn sprocket. After chain end has reached front half of -sprocket, it will be necessary to guide end under sprocket and out of -sprocket cover. Center chain so that ends engage rear sprocket teeth, -back of the axle. - -(2) Install connecting link, side plate and spring clip. See that open -end of spring clip is to the rear with regard to chain travel (like the -end of an arrow). If original spring clip is bent or damaged, use a new -one. - -(3) Adjust rear chain (par. 60). - -(4) Check rear brake adjustment (par. 96). - - -=64. CHAIN REPAIR TOOL= (fig 42). - -=a.= Damaged or broken chain links can be replaced with connecting -(repair) links after bad links have been removed. To remove damaged -or broken link, push out chain side plate pins with the chain repair -tool (41-T-3320). Front chain is a double row of duplex chain; rear -chain is a single row chain. The chain tool furnished in the tool kit -is designed to accommodate both. To put a connecting link in the front -chain, it will be necessary to remove front chain guard (par. 102). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310239 - -_Figure 42—Chain Repair Tool in Use_] - -=b.= When connecting (repair) links have been fitted to chain, make -sure that spring clips are correctly and securely locked on link pin -ends. - - -65. REPLACEMENT OF ENGINE SPROCKET. - -=a. Remove.= - -(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102). - -(2) Remove engine sprocket nut (right‐hand thread). It will be -necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut. - -(3) Give flat surface of engine sprocket, near outer edge, a light -but sharp rap with a hammer, being careful not to strike and damage -sprocket teeth. Take care not to lose sprocket shaft key. - -=b. Install.= If new sprocket is being installed, it may be necessary -to shift transmission forward to get chain to fit on sprockets (par. -59). - -(1) Thoroughly clean engine shaft taper and see that key is in place. -Clean sprocket taper hole, fit front chain on sprocket teeth, and -rotate chain until keyway in sprocket lines up with key in engine -shaft. Slip sprocket onto engine shaft, install nut, and tighten -securely. Strike wrench with a hammer to make sure sprocket nut is very -tight. - -(2) Install front outer chain guard (par. 102). - - -66. REPLACEMENT OF COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET. - -=a. Remove.= - -(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55). - -(2) Remove starter crank spring (par. 56). - -(3) Remove countershaft sprocket cover (par. 52). - -(4) Bend back extension of sprocket nut lock. - -(5) Remove sprocket retaining nut. It will be necessary to strike -wrench with a hammer to loosen nut. - -(6) Give sprocket a light but sharp rap with a hammer near outer edge, -being careful not to strike the sprocket teeth, and remove sprocket -from shaft taper. Do not lose the two sprocket shaft keys. - -=b. Install.= - -(1) Clean shaft taper and taper hole in countershaft sprocket. Install -the two keys. - -(2) Install sprocket on shaft. Place rear chain on sprocket before -installing sprocket cover. - -(3) Examine nut lock and, if badly damaged, use a new one. - -(4) Install sprocket retaining nut. Tighten by striking wrench with a -hammer. NOTE: _This nut must be tight._ Bend up extension of nut lock -against side of nut. - -(5) It will be easier to install starter crank spring at this step to -avoid interference with sprocket cover. - -(6) Install sprocket cover. - -(7) Install starter crank. - - - - -Section XVI - -FUEL SYSTEM - - - Paragraph - General 67 - Carburetor adjustment 68 - Throttle control wire adjustment 69 - Carburetor removal 70 - Carburetor installation 71 - Fuel strainer 72 - Carburetor bowl cleaning 73 - Fuel pipe 74 - - -67. GENERAL. - -=a.= Carburetor is of the side‐outlet, plain‐tube type with a fixed -venturi. Fuel feed is by gravity from tank above. Carburetor has -two manual controls: the throttle, which is operated by the right -handle bar grip, and the choke, which is operated by a lever on the -carburetor itself. The high speed fuel supply is governed by a fixed -(non‐adjustable) jet. The idling to medium speed (30 mph) fuel supply -is governed by an adjustable (low speed) needle valve located on rear -side of carburetor body. - - -=68. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT= (fig. 43). - -=a.= Before attempting to adjust carburetor to correct faulty engine -performance, attention should be given other items which have a direct -bearing on and can affect carburetor adjustment as well as engine -performance. - -(1) Inspect fuel tank cap and make sure air vent is not plugged. - -(2) See that throttle control adjustment is correct (par. 69). - -(3) See that spark control adjustment is correct (par. 88). - -(4) Drain and flush carburetor bowl (par. 73). - -(5) Drain and flush fuel strainer (par. 72). - -(6) Inspect air cleaner to see that passage of air through cleaner -is not restricted by oil level being too high in oil cup, or by an -excessive accumulation of dirt in filter elements (par. 76). - -(7) Check manifold packing nuts and carburetor mounting screws for -tightness. - -(8) See that spark plugs are clean and that gaps are adjusted between -0.025 inch to 0.030 inch. If condition of spark plugs is questionable, -install new ones. - -(9) Check adjustment of valve tappets (par. 43). - -(10) Check compression of both cylinders (par. 29 b.) (1) - -(11) Check condition and adjustment of circuit breaker points (par. 84). - -(12) Check ignition to battery wiring connections (diagram fig. 48). - -(13) See that battery is not entirely discharged by turning on lights -(tactical situation permitting) and observing brilliancy. - -=b.= A carburetor, once correctly adjusted, should require little, if -any, readjusting. At most, it should not be necessary to adjust the low -speed needle more than one or two notches either way to correct mixture -to meet changes in weather conditions. - -=c. Low Speed Adjusting Needle= (figs. 43 and 44). Adjustment of this -needle valve controls only idling and low speed (up to approximately 30 -mph) fuel mixture. Turn needle valve down (to right) to make mixture -leaner. Back out (to left) needle valve to make mixture richer. Needle -valve is held in any desired position by a spring‐and‐ball plunger -which engages notches in the needle adjusting screw. - -=d. Complete Readjustment of Carburetor.= A carburetor that is badly -out of adjustment, and/or a new carburetor just installed, must be -adjusted as follows: - -(1) Turn the low speed needle valve all the way down (to right). - -(2) Back needle valve out (to left) about three full turns. With needle -valve in this position, engine will start, but mixture will probably be -too rich. - -(3) Start engine as follows: After choke lever has been moved to normal -open running position and engine is normally hot, correct adjustment -of needle valve by turning needle valve down (to right) one notch at a -time until mixture becomes so lean that engine misses, and is inclined -to stop: then back out (to left) needle valve 5 to 10 notches, or until -engine fires regularly with spark advanced and throttle closed (or as -nearly closed as it can be set and still have engine running at idling -speed). - -(4) Adjust throttle lever stop screw (fig. 43) as necessary to make -engine idle at proper speed with throttle in fully closed position. -Turning stop screw to the right makes engine idle faster. Turning stop -screw to the left makes engine idle slower. Do not idle engine at the -slowest possible speed, because an extremely slow idling adjustment -causes hard engine starting. Changing idling speed with throttle stop -screw is likely to change the low speed fuel mixture to some extent: -therefore, it will be necessary to again check and correct the low -speed needle valve adjustment (step (3) above). - -(5) Engine starting and all‐round carburetion will be improved with -low speed fuel adjustment slightly rich, rather than extremely lean. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310240 - -_Figure 43—Throttle in Fully Closed Position_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310241 - -_Figure 44—Throttle in Fully Open Position_] - - -=69. THROTTLE CONTROL WIRE ADJUSTMENT= (figs. 43 and 44). - -=a.= Carburetor throttle is opened and closed by means of the right -handle bar grip, operating a control wire (within a housing) which -connects to the throttle lever. Adjustment for full opening and closing -of the throttle to correspond with full inward and outward motion of -the handle bar grip is made at the junction of the control wire end and -the throttle lever connection. - -=b. Adjust Fully Closed Throttle= (fig. 43). See that there is about -1 inch distance between end of control wire housing and throttle lever -when in fully closed position, so that housing end does not interfere -with forward movement of throttle lever. If adjustment of control wire -housing is necessary, refer to paragraph 101. Proceed with closed -throttle adjustment. - -(1) Loosen control wire clamp screw in connector block. - -(2) Turn right handle bar grip outward as far as it will go: then -turn it inward slightly. Holding throttle grip in this position, move -throttle lever forward against its stop (closed position) and secure -control wire in connector block with clamp screw. Check closing of -throttle after tightening control wire set screw. If necessary, reset -the control wire in the connector block until throttle is closed with -full outward grip movement. - -=c. Adjust Fully Open Throttle= (fig. 44). Follow instructions under -step =b= above, then: - -(1) Turn right handle bar grip inward as far as it will go and see that -throttle lever is against its stop in fully open position. If throttle -does not open fully when grip is turned inward, reset the control wire -in the connector block to correct the adjustment. - - -70. CARBURETOR REMOVAL. - -=a. Remove Carburetor for Replacement Only.= - -(1) Shut off fuel supply valve. - -(2) Loosen connector block clamp screw and disconnect throttle control -wire at throttle lever. - -(3) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer nipple. - -(4) Loosen air cleaner hose clamp at carburetor air intake fitting, and -remove four screws and air intake fitting from carburetor. - -(5) Remove the three mounting bolts (from right side of vehicle) which -secure carburetor to manifold flange. CAUTION: _Take care not to damage -or lose gaskets found between carburetor flange and manifold flange, -and/or 1/2-inch thick steel spacer fitted between carburetor and -manifold on some models._ - -(6) Remove carburetor. - -(7) Remove fuel strainer assembly from carburetor bowl nipple. - - -71. CARBURETOR INSTALLATION - -=a.= When installing carburetor be sure to fit the 1/2-inch thick steel -spacer (if one was originally fitted) between carburetor and manifold -flanges, with two gaskets on one side and one gasket on the other side. -Later models have a longer manifold neck, extending carburetor farther -to the left, away from cylinders, and do not need the spacer. - -(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on bowl nipple. Leave coupling nut -loose until after fuel pipe is connected. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310242 - -_Figure 45—Removing Fuel Strainer_] - -(2) To install carburetor on manifold, locate carburetor flange and -two gaskets (1/2-inch steel spacer and gaskets if originally fitted) to -aline with holes in manifold flange, and insert and securely tighten -the three carburetor mounting screws. Use a 7/16-inch socket wrench, -or a large screwdriver, to securely tighten these screws. NOTE: If -carburetor manifold is loose in manifold packing nuts (_carburetor can -be lifted and manifold turns in packing nuts), tighten manifold nuts -securely, using manifold wrench_ (_41-W-1570-10_). - -(3) Insert carburetor air intake fitting into end of air hose and mount -fitting on carburetor with the four screws. Tighten air hose clamp. - -(4) Connect fuel pipe to fuel strainer nipple by tightening the union -nut and also the strainer union nut on bowl nipple. - -(5) Attach throttle control wire to throttle lever connector block and -adjust (par. 69). - -(6) Open fuel supply valve and observe for leaks. - -(7) Adjust carburetor (par. 68). - - -=72. FUEL STRAINER= (fig. 45). - -=a. Cleaning.= - -(1) Shut off fuel supply valve. - -(2) Unscrew cap from bottom of strainer body. - -(3) Lift strainer screen element with cork washer out of cap and clean -thoroughly. Remove any dirt or sediment collected in cap. NOTE: _If -compressed air is not available for cleaning, gasoline from the fuel -pipe can be used for cleaning screen and cap._ - -(4) Install one cork washer in bottom of cap, set strainer screen -element in place, and locate the other cork washer over screen element. -Turn cap with screen element and washers onto bottom of strainer body, -handtight. - -=b. Remove Strainer Assembly.= - -(1) Shut off fuel supply valve. - -(2) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer body nipple. - -(3) Remove filter assembly from carburetor bowl nipple. It will be -noted that coupling nut is an integral part of the filter body assembly. - -=c. Install Strainer Assembly.= - -(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on carburetor bowl nipple. Leave -coupling nut loose until after fuel pipe is connected. - -(2) Connect fuel pipe to strainer body nipple and tighten union nut. -Strainer coupling nut can now be tightened on bowl nipple. - -(3) Open fuel supply valve. Inspect fuel pipe and coupling nuts for -leaks. - - -73. CARBURETOR BOWL CLEANING. - -=a.= Water from fuel, water moisture, and dirt entering air cleaner -will settle in bottom of carburetor bowl and will interfere with engine -starting and carburetion. At periodic intervals bowl must be drained. -NOTE: _Before draining and flushing bowl, clean fuel strainer_ (par. -72). - -(1) Support vehicle on jiffy (side) stand. - -(2) Shut off fuel supply valve. - -(3) Remove bowl drain screw. Let fuel, water, and dirt run out of bowl. -With drain screw still removed, open fuel supply valve (turn to left) -and leave open only a few seconds, to allow fresh gasoline to flush out -bowl. - -(4) Replace bowl drain screw, taking care to avoid thread crossing. Set -screw snug, but not tight enough to strip the threads. - - -74. FUEL PIPE. - -=a. Remove.= - -(1) Shut off fuel supply valve. - -(2) Remove pipe union nut from tank nipple. Remove pipe after -disconnecting union nut from fuel strainer body nipple. - -=b. Install.= Fuel pipe must be installed without putting undue twist -or strain on pipe or end fittings. Therefore, bend and/or shape pipe -to “fit” between nipple connections before replacing and drawing up on -union nuts. - -(1) Connect lower end of pipe to fuel filter body nipple. Do not -tighten nut. - -(2) Connect upper end of pipe to tank nipple. Securely tighten this -nut. Next, tighten union nut on strainer body nipple. - - - - -Section XVII - -INTAKE AND EXHAUST SYSTEM - - - Paragraph - Description 75 - Air cleaner 76 - Hose and carburetor fitting 77 - Remove air cleaner 78 - Install air cleaner 79 - Replacement of air cleaner mounting bracket 80 - Exhaust system 81 - - -75. DESCRIPTION. - -=a. Intake System.= The air intake system consists of oil bath air -cleaner, connecting air hose, and carburetor intake hose fitting. This -system is located on left side of vehicle. - -=b. Exhaust System.= The exhaust system consists of muffler and -tailpiece assembly, front exhaust pipe assembly, and rear exhaust pipe. -Exhaust pipe ends are a slip fit in cylinder exhaust ports. - - -=76. AIR CLEANER= (figs. 46 and 47). - -=a. General.= Air cleaner should not be submerged in water, nor -should high‐pressure stream be directed into cleaner louvers (where air -enters on rear of body) when cleaning vehicle. Either water or dirt -entering air cleaner in excessive quantities will raise the oil level -in oil cup and choke off proper air supply to carburetor. - -=b. Service.= With vehicle in normal use on hard‐surfaced roads, -clean and refill air cleaner oil cup with engine oil (seasonal grade) -at least each time engine oil tank is drained and refilled. CAUTION: -_Service more frequently under dusty conditions; daily under extremely -dusty conditions. Check oil supply daily._ - -(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining -spring clips to remove oil cup. - -(2) If oil in cup is clean, with no signs of dirt and grit in oil or -cup, but the oil level is below the indicated level mark, add engine -oil (seasonal grade) to bring level up to mark. NOTE: _If oil and cup -are dirty, empty out oil and wash out cup with dry‐cleaning solvent. -Refill with clean engine oil (seasonal grade) to indicated level mark._ - -(3) Before installing oil cup make sure that the oil cup gasket is in -place and in good condition. - -(4) Check baffle plate thumb screw for tightness. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310243 - -_Figure 46—Air Cleaner Oil Cup Removed_] - -(5) Install oil cup, making sure that retaining spring clips are fully -engaged in lip of oil cup and hold oil cup securely to cleaner body. - -(6) Oil bath air cleaners on earlier models are of “round” type, oil -cup being secured to body with a metal clamp band and thumb screw. When -oil cup is removed on this type of cleaner, the baffle plate will come -out with the cup. Make sure that baffle plate is correctly installed -and that gasket is in place when installing cup. - -=c. Maintenance= (fig. 47). The rectangular‐type oil bath air cleaner -is provided with two filter elements, retained in filter body by means -of the baffle plate. If daily check reveals excessive accumulation -of dirt and grit in oil and cup, filter elements must be removed and -cleaned. NOTE: _Check several times daily under extremely dusty or -sandy conditions._ - -(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining -spring clips; remove cup. - -(2) Unscrew baffle plate thumb screw and remove baffle plate. - -(3) Filter elements may “bind” in cleaner body. If so, rap side of body -with hand to loosen them; or, if necessary, withdraw elements from body -with pliers or a hooked wire. - -(4) Check for presence and condition of gasket above the two filter -elements (in filter body); also for oil cup gasket. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310244 - -_Figure 47—Air Cleaner, Disassembled_] - -(5) Clean both filter elements thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent. -Allow elements to dry out (use air hose if available). - -(6) Clean oil cup and refill to indicated level mark. Use clean engine -oil (seasonal grade). - -(7) Dip one screen surface of each filter element about 1/2 inch into -oil in the oil cup (to “oil wet” filter pack). Install the two filter -elements, baffle plate, and oil cup immediately after “oil wetting” the -filter elements. Make sure gaskets are in place. NOTE: _Do not add more -oil to oil cup after elements have been dipped into it, because excess -oil absorbed by elements will drip back into oil cup, bringing level -back to normal._ - -(8) Round‐type oil bath air cleaner used on earlier models does not -have removable filter element. Complete cleaner body must be removed -from vehicle, immersed and agitated in cleaning solvent to wash out -dirt. After cleaning, allow filter element to dry (use air hose if -available), then apply a few squirts of engine oil to inside of cleaner -element, using oilcan. Refill cup, replace baffle plate and cup, -securely tightening clamp band thumb screw. - - -77. HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING. - -=a. Remove.= Carburetor intake and hose connection must be removed -from carburetor to remove and/or install air hose. - -(1) Loosen screws in the two hose clamps. - -(2) Remove four screws retaining carburetor air intake fitting. Remove -carburetor fitting from end of hose, and pull hose off air cleaner body -connection. - -=b. Install.= Before installing air hose, inspect for -breaks or faulty condition that might prevent airtight seal between air -cleaner and carburetor fitting. - -(1) Install one end of hose on carburetor fitting. Do not tighten clamp -screw. - -(2) Install other end of hose on air cleaner connection. Do not tighten -clamp screw. - -(3) Install carburetor fitting. Securely tighten the four screws. Next, -center air hose between carburetor fitting and air cleaner connection -and securely tighten hose clamp screws. - - -78. REMOVE AIR CLEANER. - -=a.= Loosen hose clamp screw at air cleaner body connection and remove -two nuts and gear‐toothed washers from bolts securing air cleaner -assembly to frame bracket. NOTE: _Gear‐toothed lock washers are also -used under heads of the two mounting bolts. Withdraw cleaner from end -of air hose._ - -=b.= The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on -earlier models. - - -79. INSTALL AIR CLEANER. - -=a.= Engage air cleaner hose connection in end of hose and mount -cleaner assembly on frame bracket with two bolts, gear‐toothed lock -washers, and nuts. Securely tighten mounting nuts. NOTE: _The plated -(whitened) mounting bolts, four gear‐toothed lock washers, and bolt -nuts must effect a ground connection between bracket and filter -mounting to insure adequate radio bonding._ Tighten air hose clamp -screw at cleaner body connection. - -=b.= The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on -earlier models. - - -80. REPLACEMENT OF AIR CLEANER MOUNTING BRACKET. - -=a.= Air cleaner mounting bracket and air cleaner can be removed or -installed as an assembly. - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Loosen hose clamp connection at air cleaner body. - -(2) Disconnect battery ground wire. This prevents shorting battery when -removing cleaner bracket clamp bolt. - -(3) Remove the two upper cleaner bracket frame clamp bolts. - -(4) Remove lower mounting bolt. Cleaner lower bracket mounting and -clutch cable tube mounting are secured to frame bracket by the same -whitened radio bonding bolt, gear‐toothed lock washers, and nut. Remove -nut and drop bolt to free cleaner bracket. - -=c. Install.= - -(1) Engage air hose and cleaner body connection. - -(2) Attach lower bracket first. Locate cleaner bracket so that hole -lines up with bolt holes in frame bracket and clutch cable tube -mounting. Pass whitened radio bonding bolt upward through bracket hole, -install shakeproof lock washer, and securely tighten nut. - -(3) Attach bracket to the two upper frame clips. Tighten the clamp bolt -nuts. - -(4) Connect battery ground wire. - -(5) Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner connection. - - -81. EXHAUST SYSTEM. - -=a. Remove Muffler Assembly.= - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. - -(2) Remove bolt from end of hanger bracket on left side of vehicle, and -remove bolt from muffler clamp and skid plate bracket on right side of -vehicle. Drop skid plate. - -(3) Loosen nut and bolt on clamp which secures front end of muffler at -exhaust pipe connection (clamp is attached to muffler). - -(4) Remove muffler rear hanger bracket bolt nut. Pull muffler assembly -free from exhaust pipe connection. - -=b. Install Muffler Assembly.= - -(1) Engage muffler pipe and exhaust pipe at muffler pipe clamp -connection. Do not tighten clamp bolt nut as yet. - -(2) Attach muffler rear hanger bracket to frame bracket bolt, -installing lock washer, and tightening nut. NOTE: _It may be advisable -to loosen hanger bracket on muffler so that muffler can be lined up for -front end connection._ - -(3) Tighten muffler and exhaust pipe clamp bolt nut and rear hanger nut. - -(4) Raise skid plate into position and install right side mounting bolt -which secures muffler front bracket and skid plate bracket to frame -clip. Tighten all mounting nuts. - -=c. Remove Exhaust Pipes.= - -(1) Refer to step =a= (1), (2), (3) above. - -(2) Remove right side footboard and brake pedal assembly as follows: -Loosen footboard rear support stud nut, remove front support stud -nut, and pull footboard outward to free end of safety guard. Remove -bolt which secures front exhaust pipe clamp, and remove nut from rear -support rod, freeing stop light switch and rear end of footboard -sidebar. Remove nut from front support rod, and drop footboard and -brake foot pedal assembly to provide clearance for exhaust pipe -removal. Disengage rear exhaust pipe at cylinder port, at same time -prying and pulling front exhaust pipe forward and downward to free -from cylinder port. Both exhaust pipes can now be worked downward and -removed from vehicle as an assembly. - -=d. Install Exhaust Pipes.= - -(1) Position exhaust pipe (front and rear) assembly, working it into -position so that front pipe end slips into cylinder port; then, pry and -force rear pipe end into rear cylinder port. - -(2) Mount footboard, brake foot pedal, and sidebar assembly on support -rods, installing washer and nut on front support rod. - -(3) Position and mount stop light switch on rear support rod. See that -spring and operating control wire exert a straight pull on switch -plunger when foot pedal is operated. - -(4) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure front exhaust pipe clamp -to footboard sidebar. - -(5) To attach safety guard to sidebar, pull front end of footboard away -from sidebar, line up holes in sidebar and safety guard end, then pass -footboard support stud through both pieces, and secure with washer and -nut. - -(6) Tighten footboard rear support stud nut. - -(7) To complete installation, follow procedure outlined in step =b= -(1) through (4) above. - -[Illustration: - - =10=—INSTRUMENT PANEL TERMINAL. - =12=—BATTERY POSITIVE. - =13=—BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND). - =18=—TERMINAL JUNCTION ON FRAME. - =26=—IGNITION—LIGHT SWITCH. - =28=—SPARK COIL. - =33=—CIRCUIT BREAKER. - =34=—COIL TO TIMER WIRE. - =*A=—RADIO BOND, COIL TO TIMER WIRE. - =*B=—RADIO BOND, COIL TO ENGINE. - =*C=—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER. - =*D=—SHIELDED COIL TO TIMER WIRE. - =*E=—SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS. - -RA PD 315723 - -_Figure 48—Ignition to Battery Wiring Diagram_] - - - - -Section XVIII - -IGNITION SYSTEM - - - Paragraph - Description 82 - Spark plugs 83 - Circuit breaker points 84 - Condenser 85 - Circuit breaker and timer assembly 86 - Coil to timer wire 87 - Adjust spark control 88 - Spark coil 89 - - -82. DESCRIPTION. - -=a.= The ignition system differs from that of the conventional -automotive types in that it has no distributor. A circuit breaker alone -is used. Both coil high‐tension winding ends lead directly to both -spark plugs. Thus both plugs spark at the same time, one cylinder being -on compression stroke while the other cylinder is on exhaust stroke. - - -83. SPARK PLUGS. - -=a.= Defective spark plugs are indicated by engine missing, -overheating, knocking excessively, and lacking normal power. - -=b. Type.= Spark plugs are medium heat range, manufacturer’s (H-D) -No. 3. - -=c. Cleaning.= Do not take plugs apart for cleaning. Use the -sandblast cleaner method. - -=d. Point Adjustment.= Bend electrode located in plug base to adjust -point gap 0.025 inch to 0.030 inch. - -=e. Replacement.= Use spark plug wrench (41-W-3334) to install plugs, -using new gaskets. Never draw a cool plug up tight in a hot cylinder -head, rather turn down snug and wait l/2 minute until plug base is -warm: then tighten securely. CAUTION: _Take care not to cross‐thread -when installing spark plug._ - - -=84. CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS= (fig. 49). - -=a.= Circuit breaker lever is insulated from ground and connects to -primary wire binding post by means of a “pig‐tail” wire. Stationary -point is grounded to timer base and is movable in order to adjust -circuit breaker points. Circuit breaker points that are burned or -pitted should be renewed or dressed with a clean fine‐cut, contact -point file. The file should not be used on other metals and should -not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. CAUTION: _Never use emery_ -_cloth to clean points._ Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may -not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication -that they are not functioning satisfactorily. - -=b. Remove Breaker Lever.= - -(1) To disconnect condenser terminal, remove nut from end of condenser -and remove gear‐toothed washer, plain washer, and the brass terminal -strip. Do not remove fiber washer and plain washer located back of -brass terminal strip on condenser terminal post. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310248 - -_Figure 49—Circuit Breaker Points Removed_] - -(2) Bend brass terminal strip down and remove binding nut which secures -brass terminal strip and breaker lever “pig‐tail” to primary wire -binding post. - -(3) Compress breaker lever spring at end of lever, disengaging spring. -CAUTION: _Do not lose spring._ Release and remove lever from insulated -pivot post. - -=c. Remove Adjustable Contact Point.= - -(1) Remove the two lock screws and washer plate, securing adjustable -contact point assembly to timer base. Point assembly is free to be -lifted off lever pivot stud. - -=d. Install Adjustable Contact Point.= - -(1) Install contact point assembly, replacing washer plate and the two -lock screws. Do not tighten lock screws until circuit breaker points -are adjusted (step =f= below). - -=e. Install Breaker Lever.= - -(1) Install brass terminal strip on primary wire binding post. - -(2) Connect end of brass terminal strip to condenser terminal post. -Install flat washer, gear‐toothed washer, and nut. - -(3) Install breaker lever on pivot post insulated bearing. - -(4) Install breaker lever spring. Make sure that ends of spring are -retained correctly. - -(5) NOTE: _Keep breaker lever cam very lightly greased._ - -=f. Adjusting Circuit Breaker Points= (fig. 51). - -(1) Correct point gap is 0.022 inch. Circuit breaker point faces must -seat squarely against each other. If bent, square up and aline by -bending contact plate. Turn timer breaker cam until breaker lever fiber -is located on highest point of cam. - -(2) With the adjustable point lock screws loose, shift the adjustable -point plate to obtain a 0.022-inch gap between the circuit breaker -points. Measure gap with an accurate thickness gage before retightening -lock screws, and again recheck point gap after tightening the lock -screws. NOTE: _Wrong circuit breaker point gap affects ignition timing._ - - -85. CONDENSER. - -=a.= The condenser is connected in parallel with the circuit breaker -points, one of its terminals being grounded (for the adjustable point) -to the timer base by means of the mounting screw, the other terminal -making connection with the circuit breaker lever (for the lever point) -by means of the lever “pig‐tail.” - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Unlatch circuit breaker cover retainer and remove cover. - -(2) Remove nut from end of condenser and remove gear‐toothed washer, -plain washer, and the brass terminal strip. NOTE: _A small plain washer -and a large fiber washer are located behind brass terminal strip._ - -(3) Remove screw which secures condenser to timer base. Remove -condenser. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310249 - -_Figure 50—Circuit Breaker (Timer), Disassembled_] - -=c. Install.= - -(1) Mount condenser on timer housing. Install lock washer and screw. -Make sure small plain washer and large fiber washer are in place on -condenser end terminal screw before connecting the brass terminal strip. - -(2) Connect brass terminal strip to condenser. Replace plain washer, -gear‐toothed washer and terminal nut. - -(3) Install circuit breaker cover. - - -=86. CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER ASSEMBLY= (figs. 50 and 51). - -=a.= When the circuit breaker timer shaft and base assembly must be -replaced due to excessive wear in timer shaft bearing, sheared worm -gear pin, and/or worn or damaged worm gear, engine ignition must be -retimed. Ignition timing for the V‐type twin engine is difficult and -should be attempted only by experienced personnel. - -=b. Remove= (fig. 50). Before the timer shaft and base assembly can -be removed, the circuit breaker timer head assembly must be removed. -NOTE: _If the timer head only, or timer wire, is to be replaced, it is -not necessary to remove timer shaft and base assembly, and thus throw -engine ignition out of time._ - -(1) Remove timer head cover. - -(2) Unlatch cover retainer ends from holes in the timer head and remove. - -(3) Disconnect spark control wire at timer lever. - -(4) Lift the timer head assembly off base. The head seating tension -(ground) spring (underneath shaft base) is also free, and can now be -removed. NOTE: _It is not necessary to disconnect timer to coil wire -from timer head terminal post, unless head or wire is being replaced._ - -(5) Remove the two timer base mounting screws and lock washers. It will -be noted that one screw grounds the timer to coil wire shielding. - -(6) Timer shaft and base assembly can now be lifted out of engine gear -case cover. Take care not to damage or misplace base gasket. - -=c. Install Timer Shaft and Base Assembly and Timing Ignition= -(fig. 51). This calls for retiming engine ignition as follows: (NOTE: -_Circuit breaker cam turns in clockwise direction_): - -(1) Unscrew and raise front cylinder inlet valve spring cover, using -tappet wrench (41-W-3617). - -(2) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until valve tappet -indicates front cylinder is on compression stroke (directly after front -cylinder intake valve closes). - -[Illustration: - - =A=—FLYWHEEL TIMING MARK IN CRANKCASE INSPECTION HOLE. - =B=—COVER RETAINER. - =C=—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER. - =D=—CIRCUIT BREAKER CAM. - =E=—CONDENSER. - =F=—SPARK CONTROL WIRE HOUSING. - =G=—SPARK CONTROL WIRE. - =H=—SPARK LEVER QUADRANT. - =J=—SPARK LEVER. - =K=—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND SCREW. - =L=—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND. - =M=—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD AND HAND - INDICATING ORIGINAL FACTORY TIMING. - =N=—CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS. - =O=—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT PLATE. - =P=—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT LOCK SCREWS. - =Q=—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER PIVOT (INSULATED). - =R=—BREAKER LEVER SPRING. - -RA PD 310281 - -_Figure 51—Circuit Breaker Marks and Flywheel Mark Correctly Alined_] - -(3) Remove plug from timing inspection hole in left‐side crankcase. - -(4) Continue turning engine slowly until flywheel timing mark is in -center of inspection hole (fig. 51). Do not turn engine further. - -(5) Install paper gasket and timer head tension (ground) spring on -timer shaft base assembly. Make sure bent ends of tension spring are -facing downward (away from timer base). - -(6) Insert timer shaft and base assembly all the way down into place in -timing gear case cover, trying to locate mark on small end of breaker -cam in position shown in figure 51. Do not install base mounting screws -as yet. - -(7) Install timer head assembly so that spark control lever is within -the advance and retard quadrant (fig. 51). NOTE: _Do not install cover -retainer until later._ - -(8) Fully advance spark lever (push inward toward engine) and observe -how closely mark on breaker cam lines up with breaker lever fiber. -If mark does not line up, lift timer base and turn shaft gear so its -engagement with its driving gear is changed one tooth. Check again -according to breaker cam mark and breaker lever fiber. Repeat this -procedure until gear engagement is obtained which closely alines cam -mark and breaker lever fiber. - -(9) See that timer base is turned so that timer to coil wire is toward -rear of engine. - -(10) Install timer base screws and lock washers. Make sure that timer -to coil wire shielding is grounded under head of screw farthest away -from engine (fig. 52). Securely tighten screws. - -(11) Install timer head on base and secure with ground spring and cover -retainer. Be sure ground spring is in its proper place so that when -cover retainer ends are fitted through holes in the timer head, they -will also fit into spring locating notches. It will be necessary to -press ground spring upward under timer base to engage retainer ends -in the spring notches. NOTE: _If cover retainer ends do not engage -ground spring notches, spring will have no tension and timer head -will be loose on its base._ Circuit breaker points and condenser are -electrically grounded through timer base, and ground spring holds the -head and base in close contact, thus assuring a good ground. - -(12) Connect spark control wire and timer lever and adjust (par. 88). - -(13) Engine is now timed according to original factory setting, -providing mark on side of timer head and hole in head adjusting band -are still in alinement, and circuit breaker point gap is 0.022 inch. -Even though all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as -outlined in the foregoing instructions, it is advisable to accurately -check ignition timing (step =d= following). - -=d. Recommended Recheck of Ignition Timing= (fig. 51). Even though -all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as when engine was -originally timed, ignition timing may change somewhat after engine has -been in service for a while, due to normal wear and seating of the -various moving parts that can affect ignition timing. Since accurate -ignition timing is the first essential to good engine performance, it -is advisable to check ignition timing on new vehicle after first 1,500 -miles of service, and at each 2,000 miles thereafter. - -(1) See that circuit breaker points are adjusted for correct gap of -0.022 inch (par. 84 =f=). - -(2) Advance timer lever fully (toward engine). - -(3) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until front cylinder -is on compression stroke, and continue to turn it ahead slowly until -narrow timer cam (the end with the timing mark), just starts to open -the circuit breaker points. - -[Illustration: RA PD 318205 - -_Figure 52—Shielding of Coil to Timer Wire Grounded on Base_] - -(4) An accurate test light check as to when points just start to break -can be made, using the instrument panel red light for the purpose. -Disconnect panel light wire from the oil pressure switch, attaching -this wire to the insulated terminal post on timer head. Turn ignition -and light switch on. As long as circuit breaker points are closed, -lamp will remain lit; as points start to open, lamp will go out. NOTE: -_After making use of instrument panel red light for above purpose, -reconnect wire to oil pressure switch._ - -(5) When exact position is found, where points just start to open, -flywheel mark should be in the center of the inspection hole. - -(6) If flywheel mark is not in center of hole when points open, -readjust ignition timing as necessary (slower or faster) by means of -the timer head and band adjustment. - -[Illustration: RA PD 318203 - -_Figure 53—Shielded Coil to Timer Wire Correctly Connected at Coil_] - -(7) To readjust timer head, loosen adjusting band screw and shift -timer head in band. If flywheel timing mark shows forward of center -in inspection hole, the timing is slow. To correct, shift timer head -counterclockwise against rotation of breaker cam. If flywheel mark is -to rear of center of inspection hole, timing is fast and timer head -must be shifted with rotation (clockwise) of breaker cam, to correct -timing. - -(8) With ignition timing correct, front cylinder piston is 9/32 inch -before top dead center, on compression stroke, when circuit breaker -points just start to open. At this point spark occurs, igniting front -cylinder fuel charge. - -(9) Install flywheel inspection hole plug in left crankcase. - - -=87. COIL TO TIMER WIRE= (figs. 52 and 53). - -=a.= Models provided with radio shielding are identified by “S” on -either side of instrument panel. The coil to timer wire (low‐tension -wire) on these models is shielded for radio noise suppression. - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection. - -(2) Remove the two bolts which secure upper end of air cleaner bracket -to frame tube. Swing air cleaner and bracket outward and forward to -gain access to spark coil rear terminal. - -(3) Disconnect coil to timer wire terminal from coil rear connection. -Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground connection. - -(4) Refer to paragraph 86 =b= (1) to (4) for timer head removal. - -(5) Remove timer base mounting screw which secures wire shielding (fig. -52). - -(6) Note position of coil to timer wire inside of timer head; then -remove nut washer connecting wire to insulated contact stud. - -(7) Work old wire and loom out of timer head hole and free from vehicle. - -(8) On earlier models, the coil to timer wire was soldered to end of -insulated stud. Removal of stud is necessary to remove this wire, or -replace it with a shielded wire. Note location of stud insulations -on inside and outside of timer head, for correct installation when -reassembling. - -=c. Install.= - -(1) Pass end of wire, shield terminal, and loom up through hole in -timer base. - -(2) Ground the wire shield terminal under head of timer base mounting -screw (fig. 52). - -(3) Connect wire end terminal to insulated stud so that wire leads away -from stud in direction shown (fig. 52). - -(4) Pass coil to timer wire up alongside and to rear of frame saddle -post tube to reach rear of spark coil. - -(5) Ground the wire shield terminal to coil rear ground connection -(fig. 53). - -(6) Connect wire terminal to coil rear primary connection (fig. 53). - -(7) Install timer head on base (par. 86 =c= (11)). - -(8) Connect spark control wire to timer lever and adjust (par. 88). - -(9) Connect battery negative post wire to frame ground terminal. - -(10) Swing air cleaner bracket back into place and install two bolts, -washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clips. - -(11) Replace timer cover and check engine for starting. - - -88. ADJUST SPARK CONTROL. - -=a.= Spark advance and retard is controlled by left handle bar grip. -Spark lever operates within a quadrant mounted on engine. Spark must -be fully advanced (lever inward toward engine) when handle bar grip is -turned inward to full extent of its travel. When handle bar grip is -turned outward, spark lever retards (lever outward away from engine). - -(1) With control wire in lever stud and clamp screw loose, turn left -grip fully inward; then back it out just a little. - -(2) Shift spark lever inward toward engine as far as it will go; then -tighten control wire clamp screw. Test by turning left grip fully -inward and noting position of spark lever. It should be against inner -side of quadrant (fig. 51). Retard spark and check position of lever -within quadrant; it should be against outer side of quadrant. - -(3) Check final adjustment. Readjust full advance and retard timer -lever positions as necessary when left grip is turned inward, and -outward, respectively. - - -=89. SPARK COIL= (fig. 54). - -=a.= Spark coil high‐tension cables go directly to the spark plugs, no -distributor being used. When the coil is faulty, it must be replaced, -since internal repairs are not possible. The high‐tension cables can be -replaced, however. Coil is provided with a condenser for radio noise -suppression, and metal coil case is grounded to engine by bonding. - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire from frame connection. - -(2) Free high‐tension cable ends (with radio noise suppressors) from -spark plugs. Free front cylinder high‐tension cable from clip at upper -engine frame mounting. - -(3) Loosen air intake hose connection at carburetor fitting. - -(4) Remove two nuts, washers, and bolts securing upper end of air -cleaner mounting bracket to frame clamps. - -[Illustration: RA PD 318204 - -_Figure 54—Coil Front Connections Showing Radio Bonding and Noise -Suppression Condenser_] - -(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly outward to gain access to -coil rear terminals. - -(6) Disconnect coil to timer wire from coil rear terminal screw. -Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground terminal (fig. 53). - -(7) Swing cleaner back and remove wire connections from coil front -terminal screw (fig. 54). - -(8) Disconnect radio bonding at coil front ground terminal (fig. 54). - -(9) Remove nuts and bolts which mount coil to bracket. Coil is now free -for removal. - -=c. Install.= - -(1) Mount coil on frame bracket with high‐tension cables upward, and -reinstall mounting bolts, lock washers, and nuts. Tighten nuts. - -(2) Connect terminals of the two green wires to coil front terminal -screw. Refer to wiring diagram, figure 48. - -(3) Connect radio bonding to coil front ground terminal. Tighten nut -securely. - -(4) Connect coil to timer wire terminal to coil rear terminal screw. -Connect wire shielding to coil rear ground terminal. Tighten nut -securely. - -(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly back in place and install -two bolts, lock washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clamps. -Tighten nuts securely. - -(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection. - -(7) Pass front cylinder high‐tension wire under tank, secure in cable -clip at upper engine frame mounting, and attach cable end (radio noise -suppressor) to front spark plug. Attach rear high‐tension cable end -(radio noise suppressor) to rear spark plug. - -(8) Check wiring connections (fig. 48) and test coil by engine -starting. - - - - -Section XIX - -GENERATING SYSTEM - - - Paragraph - Description 90 - Clean commutator 91 - Armature bearing special lubrication 92 - Remove generator 93 - Install generator 94 - Cut‐out relay 95 - -[Illustration: - - =8=—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT - =12=—BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL - =13=—BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (GROUND) - =14=—“SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR - =15=—“RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR - =18=—FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL - =26=—IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH - =32=—CUT‐OUT RELAY - =*H=—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER - -RA PD 317200 - -_Figure 55—Generator to Battery Wiring Diagram_] - - -90. DESCRIPTION (fig. 55). - -=a.= The generator is shunt connected. The two field coils, regulating -coil, and shunt coil are not connected in series in the conventional -manner. The regulating field coil provides adequate current output -(approx. 4 amperes) for daytime operation. The shunt field coil is -controlled through the ignition and light switch to increase current -output (approx. 8 amperes) when vehicle lights are in use. Generator -uses the third (regulating) brush system of current regulation. A -cut‐out relay serves as a magnetic switch in the generator‐battery -circuit, also operating the instrument panel green signal light to -indicate generator charge. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310259 - -_Figure 56—Generator Cover Removed for Commutator Cleaning_] - - -=91. CLEAN COMMUTATOR= (fig. 56). - -=a.= If battery is in good condition, cut‐out relay is functioning, -and wiring connections are made according to diagram (fig. 55), yet -generator does not charge or charge rate is low, proceed to clean the -commutator. - -(1) Remove left footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly, -following procedure outlined under paragraph 102 =a= (1) to (6), -to permit generator cover removal. - -(2) Remove the two end cover screws and pull end cover off generator. - -(3) Clean armature commutator with No. 00 sandpaper until bright and -clean. Blow out with air. CAUTION: _Do not remove or disturb brushes in -their holders. Never use emery cloth to clean the commutator._ - -[Illustration: RA PD 310260 - -_Figure 57—Generator End Cover and Grease Retainer Removed_] - -(4) Temporarily install footboard assembly and operate engine, to -observe whether or not generator is charging (green signal light -goes off at above 20 mph). If cleaning commutator does not remedy -generator charge, and/or commutator is badly worn, then generator must -be replaced (par. 93). If cleaning of commutator remedied generator -charge, reinstall generator end cover, and the footboard and clutch -pedal assembly (par. 102 =b=). - - -=92. ARMATURE BEARING SPECIAL LUBRICATION= (fig. 57). - -=a.= At the 6,000-mile second echelon preventive maintenance service -period, the commutator end bearing must be hand‐packed. In performing -this operation, care must be taken not to shift or move the generator -third (regulating) brush, thus disturbing generator current regulation. -Generator drive end bearing is adequately lubricated by oil circulating -through engine. - -=b. To Lubricate Commutator End Bearing.= - -(1) Remove left footboard, sidebar, and clutch pedal assembly, -following procedure outlined in paragraph 102 =a= (1) to (6). - -(2) Remove the two end cover screws and pull end cover off generator. - -(3) Remove two of the three screws which secure the outer grease -retainer plate to end of generator (fig. 57). - -(4) Loosen the other grease retainer plate screw slightly to permit -shifting plate to one side. - -(5) Pack ball bearing with general purpose grease No. 2, pressing -lubricant into bearing with finger. - -(6) Shift the outer grease retainer plate back into position. Install -the two screws removed, and securely tighten all three screws. - -(7) Install generator end cover and the two retaining screws. - -(8) Install left footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly, -following procedure outlined in paragraph 102 =b=. - - -=93. REMOVE GENERATOR= (figs. 58 and 59). - -=a.= Generator is gear driven through engine timing gear train. -Generator can be removed and installed without removing timing gear -case cover, or affecting alinement of timing gears. - -=b.= Before replacing generator because of failure of instrument panel -green signal light to indicate charge, check panel light wiring and -bulb for good condition (par. 120). - -=c.= When it has been determined that generator must be removed for -replacement, proceed as follows: - -(1) Disconnect wires from the two generator terminals marked SWITCH and -RELAY. - -(2) Remove the two long screws, through timing gear case cover, that -secure end of generator against gear case (fig. 58). - -(3) Remove strap nut, lock washer, and curved washer from end of strap -that clamps generator in its cradle on engine crankcase (fig. 59). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310261 - -_Figure 58—Removing Generator End Mounting Screws_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310262 - -_Figure 59—Removing Generator Strap Nut_] - -(4) Lift strap high enough to permit raising generator so that oil -slinger (on end of generator gear) will clear adjacent gear, and allow -generator to be removed from engine. Be sure to observe and count -number of paper shims between generator and cradle. Lay these shims -aside to be used again when generator is reinstalled. Also, note -location of hole in shims for oil drain. These shims were required in -original assembly to adjust driving gears for proper mesh and, if left -out, gears may mesh too deeply and “howl,” even though considerably -worn. Unless a new generator gasket is available, to be used when -generator is reinstalled, be careful not to damage the old one. - - -94. INSTALL GENERATOR. - -=a.= When installing generator, the important point to consider is -correct shimming of generator in its cradle to provide correct mesh of -driving gear with intermediate timing gear. Make sure same number of -paper shims are used in reassembling as were found underneath generator -when it was removed. After an engine has been run a considerable -length of time and gears have worn to some extent, they have possibly -developed sufficient lash or play to safely remove one or more of the -original shims, and thus affect closer meshing and quieter operation. -However, this should not be done unless timing gear case cover is -removed so that gear mesh and lash can be carefully checked. - -(1) Pass generator drive gear end through gear case hole, lifting -generator so that oil slinger clears intermediate timing gear. Turn -generator in its cradle so that end holes line up with long mounting -screws which pass through gear case cover. Tighten mounting screws -securely. - -(2) Install curved washer, lock washer, and nut on end of clamp strap; -tighten nut securely. - -(3) Connect red‐black wire to generator terminal marked RELAY, and -green wire to generator terminal marked SWITCH. Refer to wiring diagram -(fig. 55). - -(4) Operate engine and check generator for current output, as well as -check for gear noise. If shimming under generator is proper, generator -and timing gears will run quietly. If necessary, readjust shimming -until gears operate quietly. - - -95. CUT‐OUT RELAY. - -=a.= Operation of the instrument panel green signal light, indicating -generator charge, is controlled by the cut‐out relay. Therefore, if -relay is faulty the signal light will not operate properly, falsely -indicating generator trouble. Rust around the contact points, burned -points, and loss of armature spring tension are sources of most relay -trouble. NOTE: _Before condemning a relay because of failure of green -signal light, make light test_ (par. 120). - -=b.= Correct adjustment of relay point gaps and tensioning of armature -springs require use of precision electric meters and expert knowledge -on the subject. A faulty relay, other than removing cover and cleaning -with air, should be replaced. No adjustment of points should be -attempted. - -=c. Remove.= - -(1) Disconnect the three wires from relay terminal screws. - -(2) Remove the two mounting screws and lock washers. Remove relay from -engine base. - -=d. Install.= - -(1) Mount relay on engine base with two screws and lock washers. Make -sure that mounting is clean to make good electrical ground contact -between relay and engine. - -(2) Reconnect the three wire terminals to relay terminal screws. Follow -wiring diagram, figure 55. - -(3) Operate engine and observe action of relay, also action of -instrument panel green signal light to indicate generator charge. - - - - -Section XX - -BRAKE SYSTEM - - - Paragraph - Rear wheel brake 96 - Front wheel brake 97 - - -=96. REAR WHEEL BRAKE= (figs. 60, 61, and 62). - -=a. Linkage.= Brake foot pedal on right side of vehicle is connected -to bell crank (located on rear footboard support rod) by means of the -front brake rod (nonadjustable). The bell crank is connected to rear -brake operating lever by means of the rear brake rod with adjustable -clevis end. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310277 - -_Figure 60—Rear Brake Adjustment_] - -=b. Adjusting Rear Wheel Brake= (fig. 60). If brake operating lever -stands ahead of vertical position, excessive lining wear is indicated. -Brake shoes must be replaced (steps =c= and =d= below). Normal free -play of brake foot pedal before brake operation is 1 inch. After brake -takes effect in vehicle operation, brake foot pedal should have 1-inch -reserve travel before bottoming on footboard. If brake foot pedal -operation does not come within these limits, adjust rear brake rod as -follows: - -(1) Remove cotter pin, plain washer, and clevis pin from end of rear -brake rod clevis. - -(2) Loosen clevis lock nut on brake rod. - -(3) Turn clevis onto (clockwise) brake rod to shorten rod and take up -foot pedal free play. - -(4) Turn clevis off (counterclockwise) brake rod to lengthen rod and -increase foot pedal free play. - -(5) After making brake adjustment, spin rear wheel and make sure brake -is not dragging. When correct brake adjustment is attained, install -clevis pin in clevis and brake operating lever with plain washer, and -retain with cotter pin. NOTE: _Cotter pin must be in good condition._ - -[Illustration: RA PD 310273 - -_Figure 61—Rear Brake Assembly_] - -=c. Remove Brake Shoes= (fig. 61). - -(1) Remove rear wheel (par. 127). - -(2) Remove brake drum and sprocket assembly. Brake shoes are now -accessible. Do not remove side cover assembly from frame. - -(3) Disconnect brake rod clevis at brake operating lever. - -(4) Place end of large screwdriver blade between ends of brake shoes at -pivot stud. Move brake‐operating lever forward to hold brake shoes in -fully expanded position, and pry ends of shoes off pivot stud without -removing brake shoe springs. - -=d. Install Brake Shoes.= Observe that brake shoes are made for upper -and lower positions and are not interchangeable. Recess in end of shoe -for pivot stud head determines position of shoe in assembly. - -(1) Engage ends of springs in shoe assembly holes from the inside -before installing shoes on side cover (fig. 61). - -(2) With brake shoes and springs assembled, install so that ends of -shoes will slip over pivot stud and shaft‐operating cam. - -(3) Connect brake rod clevis to brake operating lever. - -(4) Install brake drum and sprocket assembly. Lock brake to hold drum -in place while installing wheel (fig. 84). - -(5) Install rear wheel (par. 127). NOTE: _If rear chain is in need of -adjustment, it should be done at this time._ - -(6) To equalize brake shoes, loosen nut on brake shoe adjustable pivot -stud (on outside of brake side plate), and while applying pressure -on brake foot pedal (to “center” the brake shoes within the drum), -retighten the pivot stud nut. - -(7) After new or relined shoes have been installed, check foot pedal -for free play (step =b= above). - - -=97. FRONT WHEEL BRAKE= (fig. 62). - -=a. Linkage= (=control=). Handle bar hand lever control wire which -operates front wheel brake can be adjusted and or replaced. Keep brake -control wire lubricated (through oiler in housing and at ends of -housing) with engine oil. - -=b. Remove Control Wire.= Remove control wire clamp nut from brake -lever clevis, and free lower end of control wire from clevis. - -(1) Remove cotter pin and flat washer from hollow pin, permitting -hollow pin to be pulled out of hand lever. Control wire can now be -pulled out of housing through the hole in hand lever. - -=c. Install Control Wire.= Apply grease or engine oil to -new control wire and insert, through hand lever, into control wire -housing. Use caution when inserting a new control wire into housing, -to prevent wire end from fraying. A frayed wire with loose end strands -will not feed through the housing. - -(1) With control wire in housing, insert hand lever hollow pin so that -narrow slot straddles control wire: then fit flat washer over end of -hollow pin, retaining both with cotter pin. - -(2) Insert lower end of control wire through clamp nut, then through -clevis and back through clamp nut again. Grasp end of wire with pliers -and pull until all slack is taken up. Then, while pulling wire snug, -tighten clamp nut securely. Cut off excess wire. - -(3) Adjust brake control (refer to step =d= below). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310274 - -_Figure 62—Front Brake Control and Adjusting Members_] - -=d. Adjusting Front Wheel Brake.= End of brake hand lever must -move freely about 1/4 of its travel before meeting resistance of brake -operation. - -(1) Loosen adjusting sleeve lock nut and turn adjusting sleeve as -necessary to attain correct free movement of hand lever. - -(2) After correct hand lever adjustment is made, tighten adjusting -sleeve lock nut. - -=e. Remove Brake Shoes.= - -(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125). After front wheel is removed, brake -side cover and shoe assembly is accessible for shoe replacement. - -(2) Remove brake shoes. Brake shoes and springs can be pried off pivot -stud and freed from operating cam without removing springs. - -=f. Install Brake Shoes.= Observe that brake shoes are made for upper -and lower positions and are not interchangeable. Recess in end of shoe -for pivot stud head determines position of shoe in assembly. - -(1) Engage ends of springs in shoe holes from the inside before -installing shoes in brake side plate. - -(2) With shoes and springs assembled, install the shoes so that ends of -shoes will slip over pivot stud and shaft operating cam. - -(3) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125). - -(4) Loosen nut on brake shoe adjustable pivot stud and while applying -pressure on brake hand lever, retighten pivot stud nut. This is to -center brake shoes within the brake drum. - -(5) After new or relined shoes have been installed, check brake hand -lever and, if necessary, adjust the control wire (step =d= above). - - - - -Section XXI - -STEERING CONTROL - - - Paragraph - Forks 98 - Steering damper 99 - Handle bars 100 - Handle bar controls 101 - - -=98. FORKS= (figs. 63 and 64). - -=a.= Either the spring fork can be removed and replaced, or the -complete fork assembly (spring fork and rigid) can be replaced. - -=b. Remove Spring Fork= (fig. 63). - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. - -(2) Remove the fork spring rod lock nuts (acorn‐type). - -(3) Sit on front mudguard, or otherwise provide weight, to compress -fork cushion (lower) springs. The spring rod large nuts can then be -easily removed, freeing the upper recoil and upper bumper springs for -removal. - -(4) Remove front wheel (par. 125). - -(5) Remove front mudguard (par. 104). - -(6) Remove spring fork right and left side rocker plate studs. NOTE: -_Leave rigid fork rocker studs, with rockers, attached._ - -(7) Remove spring fork from vehicle. - -=c. Install Spring Fork.= - -(1) Place buffer springs and lower cushion springs on fork rods. Apply -grease to rods. Pass fork rods up through rigid fork bracket. Bind -lower end of spring fork to lower end of rigid fork with a strap or -piece of heavy wire (fig. 64), to prevent forks from separating while -compressing cushion springs. - -(2) Install two bolts in the rigid fork brackets which mount the -mudguard; then place a rod about 8 inches long on the brackets to -provide a pry base for the leverage bar when compressing cushion -springs (fig. 64). With a leverage bar about 18 inches long, anchored -on top of the pry base rod and under the spring fork, lift upward to -compress cushion springs sufficiently to install one of the rocker -plates. Then install the other rocker plate (fig. 64). NOTE: _Left side -spring fork rocker plate stud has a button end which fits into notch in -brake stabilizer plate._ - -(3) Install mudguard (par. 104). - -(4) Install front wheel (par. 125). - -(5) Install the two spring rod bushings. Install upper bumper springs -and upper recoil springs on the fork rods, applying grease to rods. - -(6) Remove blocks from under vehicle. - -(7) Sit on mudguard to compress fork cushion (lower) springs. Tighten -the two large spring rod nuts sufficiently to provide full thread for -the spring rod lock nuts (acorn‐type). Install spring rod lock nuts and -tighten. - -(8) See that all nuts, bolts, and screws securing lamp bracket, -mudguard, scabbard carrier, and ammunition carrier are tightened -securely. - -(9) Check front wheel brake for operation. - -=d. Remove Upper Recoil Springs and/or Upper Bumper Springs.= - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Remove the fork spring rod lock nuts -(acorn‐type). - -(2) Sit on front mudguard, or otherwise provide weight, to compress -fork cushion (lower) springs. The spring rod large nuts can then be -easily removed, freeing the upper recoil and upper bumper springs for -removal. - -=e. Install Upper Recoil Springs and/or Upper Bumper -Springs.= - -(1) Apply grease to fork spring rods and install upper bumper springs. - -(2) Install upper recoil springs over bumper springs on fork spring -rods. - -(3) Sit on front mudguard to compress cushion (lower) springs -sufficiently to start on spring rod large nuts. - -(4) Tighten both spring rod large nuts. Install and tighten the two -spring rod (acorn‐type) lock nuts. - -=f. Remove and Install Lower Cushion Springs and/or Lower Buffer -Springs.= This operation calls for same procedure followed in removing -and installing spring fork (steps =b= and =c= above). - -=g. Remove Complete Fork Assembly.= - -(1) Remove ammunition box carrier (par. 103). - -(2) Remove scabbard carrier (par. 103). - -(3) Remove front wheel (par. 125). - -(4) Remove steering damper (par. 99). - - -[Illustration: RA PD 315728 - -_Figure 63—Spring Fork Disassembled_ - - =A=—UPPER (RECOIL) SPRINGS - =B=—UPPER BUMPER SPRINGS - =C=—SPRING ROD LOCK NUTS (ACORN‐TYPE) - =D=—SPRING ROD BUSHINGS - =E=—LARGE SPRING ROD NUTS - =F=—LOWER CUSHION SPRINGS - =G=—SPRING RODS - =H=—LOWER BUFFER SPRINGS - =J=—SPRING FORK ASSEMBLY - =K=—ROCKER PLATE STUD NUTS AND LOCKS - =L=—RIGHT SIDE ROCKER PLATE STUD AND WASHER - =M=—LEFT SIDE ROCKER PLATE STUD (HAS BUTTON END) AND WASHER - =N=—AMMUNITION BOX CARRIER MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT - =O=—HEADLIGHT BRACKET AND MUDGUARD BOLT, WASHER AND NUT (LEFT SIDE) - =P=—FRONT AXLE, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN - =Q=—SCABBARD CARRIER MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT - =R=—HEADLIGHT BRACKET AND MUDGUARD BOLT, MARKER LIGHT GABLE CLIP, - WASHER AND NUT (RIGHT SIDE) - =S=—BRAKE SHACKLE BOLT, LOCK AND NUT - =T=—BRAKE AND SIDE COVER ASSEMBLY - =U=—MUDGUARD BRACKET MOUNTING LOCK, WASHER AND NUTS (RIGHT SIDE) - =V=—MUDGUARD AND RIGID FORK MOUNTING SCREWS, WASHERS AND NUTS - =W=—MUDGUARD BRACKET MOUNTING LOCK, WASHER AND NUTS (LEFT SIDE) - =X=—NOTCHES IN MUDGUARD BRACKETS FOR SPECIAL LOCKS - -RA PD 3157288 - -_Legend for Figure 63—Spring Fork Disassembled_] - -(5) Remove front mudguard, after removing nuts and locks from rear -rocker plate studs, two screws and nuts securing mudguard to rigid -fork, and the two bolts mounting headlight bracket to mudguard. NOTE: -_Front mudguard blackout light wire connects to ignition and light -switch and care must be exercised not to break this wire if it is not -disconnected from the switch._ - -(6) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection. Remove -blackout light (par. 114). Remove headlight, horn, and bracket assembly -as one unit. - -(7) Remove handle bar brake fittings and brake control wire housing -from side of fork. Remove handle bars after removing handle bar bracket -lock nut and cone lock plate. It is not necessary to disconnect spark -and throttle control wire housings from frame. Unscrew fork upper -adjusting cone from fork stem, freeing fork assembly to be removed -from frame head. NOTE: _Steering head ball bearings are loose (not in -retainers) in upper and lower frame head bearing cups. Take care not to -lose balls._ - -=h. Install Fork Assembly.= With vehicle on rear stand, and front end -up by blocking under frame loop or skid plate, proceed with installing -fork assembly, as follows: - -(1) Thoroughly clean upper and lower frame head bearing cups and pack -with general purpose grease No. 2, installing fifteen 5/16-inch ball -bearings in each cup. Work grease thoroughly in between balls. - -(2) See that lower fork stem cone is clean and in place, pass fork stem -up through frame head, turning on upper adjusting cone. Do not try to -adjust bearing cone as yet. - -(3) Install handle bars by locating mounting bracket on ends of fork -sides and center stem, making sure that spark and throttle control wire -housings are in place. - -(4) Adjust upper fork stem adjusting cone so that there is no -perceptible shake in head bearings when handle bars are worked up and -down, and fork does not bind when turned to right and left extremes. - -(5) Install cone lock plate by engaging pin in one of the cone notches. - -(6) Install lock nut on stem and tighten securely. NOTE: _Check head -bearing play, as tightening lock nut sometimes makes head bearing too -tight. Readjust if necessary._ - -(7) Attach handle bar brake fittings and brake control wire housing to -side of fork. - -(8) Reinstall headlight, horn, and bracket assembly. Connect wires (per -wiring diagram fig. 73) before front mudguard is reinstalled. Install -blackout light (par. 114). Reconnect battery negative ground wire to -frame ground connection. - -(9) Install steering damper (par. 99). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310266 - -_Figure 64—Compressing Cushion Springs for Spring -Fork Assembly_] - -(10) Install front mudguard. Attach two screws, washers, and nuts for -rigid fork mounting and two bolts, washers, and nuts for headlight -bracket mounting. Fit right and left mudguard brace clip locks to right -and left side rocker plate studs respectively. Do not put on nuts until -after installing ammunition box carrier and scabbard carrier. - -(11) Install front wheel (par. 125). - -(12) Install scabbard carrier and ammunition box carrier (par. 103). - -(13) Check lights, horn, spark control, throttle control, front brake -control, steering damper control, and steering head bearing for freedom -without binding. - -=i. Remove Rocker Plate Studs.= Studs and/or rocker plates can be -removed and installed in the same operation. In removing and installing -studs, remove only one fork rocker plate at a time, leaving the other -plate attached to opposite side fork ends to hold fork springs in -compressed position. This will eliminate necessity of compressing fork -springs to fit rocker plates on studs. - -(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125). - -(2) Remove nuts and locks from rocker plate studs on right side of -vehicle. This releases gun scabbard carrier and mudguard stay clip. -NOTE: _Remove the large nut which secures the long stud to rigid fork._ - -(3) Drive out studs from fork ends, releasing rocker plate. - -(4) Install studs and rocker plate before removing studs from left side -of vehicle. - -=j. Install Rocker Plate Studs.= Apply grease to studs and insert in -rocker plate, then install large flat washers on studs before mounting -this assembly on fork ends. Make sure that short stud is in front -position, and that long stud is in rear position for the rigid fork. - -(1) Drift studs (with plate assembly) into fork end holes from the -inside. - -(2) Install special nut lock (with half round hole) on front stud and -turn stud as necessary to make lock “cup” over end of fork. Install -and tighten stud nut and bend up end of lock for security. Place lock -washer over long stud and install thick nut, securely tightening it. - -(3) Attach end of gun scabbard carrier and mudguard brace clip with -special lock to long stud, replacing washer and nut. - -(4) After right side rocker plate and/or studs have been installed, -remove and install studs and/or plate on left side of vehicle following -same step‐by‐step procedure as above. The exceptions will be ammunition -box carrier instead of scabbard carrier; also, the left side front stud -is special, having a “button” end. - -(5) Install front wheel (par. 125). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310276 - -_Figure 65—Steering Damper Assembly_] - - -=99. STEERING DAMPER= (fig. 65). - -=a. Remove= (fig. 65). - -(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125). - -(2) Remove front mudguard (par. 104). - -(3) Remove lock nut from steering damper rod, then remove upper end -parts in the following order: adjusting nut, keyed steel washer, fiber -washer, operating lever, and actuating sleeve. This entire assembly is -located in the central part of the handle bar mounting bracket. - -(4) Steering damper rod, cushion spring, pressure disk, fiber disk, and -steel disk assembly can now be withdrawn (downward) from fork stem hole. - -=b. Install= (fig. 65). Before installing steering damper, make sure -that the parts are in correct order on the lower end of the rod before -passing rod up through hole in fork stem. Check parts and order of -assembly. - -(1) Assemble parts on rod end (fig. 65), making sure that the bent down -lip of the steel pressure disk engages with notch in end of the rod -lock plate. - -(2) Pass rod with its lower end assembly up through hole in fork stem, -turning steel pressure disk to front position so that “bent‐up” lip -engages with notch in front side of rigid fork crown, at the same time -engaging curved end of steel disk torque arm in slot in underside of -frame head. Maintain pressure against end of rod to keep lower disks in -order while assembling upper rod end parts. - -(3) Install upper rod end assembly in the following order: Small plain -washer, releasing spring, adjusting sleeve screws into end of fork -stem, operating lever registers on the adjusting sleeve, fiber washer, -keyed steel washer registers in rod slot, large adjusting nut, and lock -nut. - -(4) Turn actuating sleeve all the way into fork stem and then back -it out (up) 1/2 turn or more. Register the operating lever on flat of -actuating sleeve, and see that lever has full movement to the left -without bottoming sleeve in the fork stem. - -(5) Adjust steering damper by setting adjusting (large) nut so that -operating lever must be moved nearly straight back from the free -(left‐side) position, before damper takes noticeable effect (applies -friction to movement of the handle bars). Hold large adjusting nut and -tighten the small lock nut. - -(6) Install front mudguard (par. 104). - -(7) Install front wheel (par. 125). - - -100. HANDLE BARS. - -=a. Remove Complete Assembly.= If vehicle is equipped with handle -bar windshield and rear view mirror, remove these accessories before -starting to remove handle bar assembly. - -(1) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever, and spark -control wire at timer lever. - -(2) Release spark control wire housing clip at front cylinder base bolt -(near timer). Also release housing from frame clip on left side of -vehicle. Release throttle control wire housing clip, located at tank, -lower front connection bolt. - -(3) Remove front brake hand lever fittings from handle bars. Also -release brake control wire housing at handle bar clamp. - -(4) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection and -wires at headlight. Headlight must be removed for access to the two -terminal screws (fig. 73). - -(5) Disconnect horn wire leading to handle bars and red wire (terminal -No. 17, fig. 73) leading to handle bars. - -(6) Remove steering damper rod upper end fittings in the following -order: Lock nut, adjusting nut, keyed steel washer, fiber washer, -operating lever, and operating sleeve (screws into end of fork stem). -Removal of these parts gives access to handle bar lock nut. Remove -handle bar lock nut and cone lock plate. - -(7) Loosen handle bar bracket‐fork end pinch bolts. Handle bars are now -free to be drifted off ends of fork sides and center stem. - -(8) Remove handle bar windshield apron spring guard after handle bars -are removed from vehicle. - -=b. Install Complete Assembly.= If vehicle is equipped with handle -bar windshield and rear view mirror, attach these accessories after -handle bar assembly is installed. - -(1) Attach windshield apron spring guard to handle bar bracket. Do not -tighten bolt nut until after handle bars are installed. - -(2) Start handle bar bracket holes over ends of fork, seeing that spark -control wire housing is on right side of frame head: then drive handle -bars onto fork ends, using a rawhide mallet, or a hammer and wood block. - -(3) To install cone lock plate, enter registering pin through hole in -handle bars and engage notch in the adjusting cone. Install and tighten -handle bar lock nut securely. CAUTION: _When tightening this nut, -always make sure that register (shoulder) of nut enters hole in lock -plate and handle bars._ - -(4) Check adjustment of head bearing. The fork must turn freely but -without perceptible shake. Readjust head cone to obtain proper bearing -adjustment if necessary. - -(5) Tighten handle bar bracket‐fork end pinch bolts. - -(6) Position windshield apron guard so that it clears fork springs. -Securely tighten mounting bolt nut. - -(7) Install steering damper upper end fittings (fig. 65). Make sure -that lower end disks and plates are properly engaged. Adjust (par. 99). - -(8) Connect handle bar wires to terminal plate, horn, and headlight. -Consult wiring diagram (fig. 73). Install headlight. Adjust beam and -secure mounting nut (par. 114). Connect battery negative ground wire to -frame connection. - -(9) Check operation of lights and horn, tactical situation permitting. - -(10) Attach front brake hand lever fittings to left handle bar. Secure -control wire housing in handle bar clamp, just ahead of housing oiler. -Check front brake for correct operation and, if necessary, adjust (par. -97). - -(11) Pass spark control wire housing along left side of frame front -tube, between cylinders (under carburetor) to position housing end -clamp on cylinder stud near timer. Secure clamp under cylinder stud -nut. Secure wire cable under clamp on left side of frame front tube, -with white paint mark slightly ahead of clamp front edge. Engage end of -spark control wire in timer lever and adjust spark control (par. 88). - -(12) Pass throttle control wire housing along right side of frame -front tube and over top of front cylinder head to reach carburetor -connection. Install tank (lower front) mounting bolt to secure wire -housing clamp. See that white paint mark on wire housing is slightly -ahead of clamp, then secure bolt nut on left side of vehicle. Engage -end of throttle control wire in throttle lever and adjust (par. 69). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310282 - -_Figure 66—Removing Handle Bar Grip Sleeve Retaining Nut_] - - -=101. HANDLE BAR CONTROLS= (figs. 66 and 67). - -=a.= Construction of the throttle and spark controls is the same, thus -replacing a control wire or wire housing follows the same general -procedure up to the point where control adjustment is made. Handle bar -grip sleeves (spirals) are interchangeable. - -=b. Remove Throttle Control Wire= (fig. 67). - -(1) Disconnect control wire at throttle lever connection. - -(2) Insert blade of a large, square‐shank screwdriver through hole in -end of grip and turn out end nut by using a wrench on the shank of the -screwdriver (fig. 66). Sometimes this nut is difficult to remove. In -this case, insert punch into the slot in the nut and strike punch two -or three sharp blows to “free” nut in handle bar end threads. Remove -nut as above. NOTE: _Nut remains inside the grip and is removed with -the grip and spiral sleeve assembly._ - -(3) Remove grip and spiral assembly from handle bars. Control wire and -working parts are now accessible. - -(4) Remove plain roller from pin. Remove roller block from pin. Remove -pin from plunger. - -(5) Pull plunger with wire attached out of handle bar end. Remove -hexagon head screw which secures wire to plunger. NOTE: _If wire is -broken, remove other half from housing at carburetor connection end._ - -(6) Remove any rust, dirt, or gum from grip spiral, handle bar end, -wire plunger, and inside of handle bar where plunger operates. - -[Illustration: - - =A=—END NUT. - =B=—GRIP. - =C=—GRIP SLEEVE ASSEMBLY. - =D=—ROLLER PIN. - =E=—ROLLER. - =F=—ROLLER BLOCK. - =G=—PLUNGER. - =H=—CONTROL WIRE. - =I=—WIRE RETAINING NUT. - -RA PD 310263 - -_Figure 67—Handle Bar Grip and Wire Control, Disassembled_] - -=c. Install Throttle Control Wire= (fig. 67). - -(1) Pass hollow screw over control wire with threaded end of hollow -screw facing button on end of wire. Install screw in end of plunger. -Securely tighten screw. - -(2) Apply grease or engine oil to control wire and insert end into -control wire housing. - -(3) Apply grease to plunger and push plunger and wire into handle bar -until plunger pin hole is exposed in handle bar slot. Work plunger or -turn it within handle bar so that pin hole and flat side are upward and -are centered in slot; then insert roller pin into plunger hole, roller -block (with flat sides), and roller in order named. Apply grease to -plunger pin and roller and to outside of handle bar end. - -(4) Install grip and spiral assembly by engaging plunger roller in -spiral opening in end of grip sleeve. Grip spiral sleeve nut can best -be started without danger of cross threading, by holding grip assembly -back slightly while starting nut in handle bar end. This squares nut -with end of grip sleeve, alining threads. Securely tighten nut with -screwdriver and wrench. - -(5) Connect control wire at throttle lever connection. Adjust control -(par. 69). - -=d. Remove Spark Control Wire= (fig. 67). Disconnect control wire at -timer lever and follow procedure outlined under step =b= above. - -=e. Install Spark Control Wire= (fig. 67). Follow procedure outlined -under step c above, then connect control wire at timer lever and adjust -control (par. 88). - -=f. Remove and Install Control Wire Housings.= Remove either control -wire housing after following procedure outlined above (step b), then -remove set screw on under side of handle bar, just ahead of grip sleeve -shoulder. NOTE: _Set screw for spark control wire housing is located -under headlight dimmer switch._ After set screw is removed and housing -freed from attaching clamps, housing can be pushed out through end of -handle bar. - -(1) When installing control wire housings, see that housing end is -secured in handle bar with set screw, and that housing is correctly -attached to vehicle clamps. - -(2) Install control wire and grip (step =c= above) and adjust -controls: spark (par. 88), throttle (par. 69). - - - - -Section XXII - -SHEET METAL AND EQUIPMENT - - - Paragraph - Chain guards 102 - Carriers 103 - Mudguards 104 - Battery box 105 - Tool box 106 - Tanks 107 - Stands 108 - Saddle post 109 - Safety guards 110 - Skid plate 111 - - -102. CHAIN GUARDS. - -=a. Remove Outer Front Chain Guard= (figs. 68 and 69). - -(1) Remove nut and washer which secures center of chain guard and skid -plate left‐side support bracket. - -(2) Loosen skid plate support bracket lower bolt and nut and remove -bracket from stud. - -(3) Loosen the nut which secures footboard rear stud to sidebar, then -remove nut which secures footboard front stud to sidebar. Pull front -end of footboard away from sidebar so that stud will clear end of -safety guard. - -(4) Remove extended nut which secures sidebar to frame front support -rod. - -(5) Disconnect clutch control cable end at clutch foot pedal by -removing cotter pin and plain washer from stud. - -(6) Left side footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly can -now be removed. If rear end of sidebar is lowered, the front end will -clear end of safety guard. - -(7) Remove cotter pin, nut, spring, washer, and bolt from chain guard -rear mounting. Outer front chain guard can now be removed, exposing -engine sprocket, front drive chain, and clutch assembly. - -=b. Install Outer Front Chain Guard.= - -(1) Locate outer front chain guard on center support stud (frame rear -support rod end). Line up rear mounting bracket with frame bracket. - -(2) Install bolt, washer, spring, nut, and cotter pin to secure rear -mounting. - -(3) Install footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly on frame -support rod ends. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310264 - -_Figure 68—Left Footboard Assembly Removed_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 315729 - -_Figure 69—Outer Front Chain Guard Removed_] - -(4) Attach front end of sidebar. Install extended nut and lock washer -to secure front sidebar and support rod mounting. - -(5) Install skid plate support bracket on support rod (in center of -chain guard), tightening nut on bolt. Install nut and lock washer which -secure skid plate bracket and chain guard on rear support rod. Tighten -nut. - -(6) Pull front end of footboard away from sidebar so that hole in end -of safety guard lines up with hole in sidebar, then pass footboard stud -through both pieces, installing washer and securing stud nut. Tighten -footboard rear stud nut. - -(7) Attach brake control cable end to foot pedal stud. - -=c. Remove Rear Chain Guard.= - -(1) Remove cap screw which secures rear chain oil pipe clamp, and -provides mounting for front end of chain guard on transmission sprocket -cover. Remove chain guard. - -(2) Remove chain guard from rear mounting by pushing the guard back so -that stud (with washers and spring) slips out of mounting clip notch. - -=d. Install Rear Chain Guard.= - -(1) Locate rear chain guard in position for mounting. Spread the large -washer on the rear stud to engage clip notch. Push guard forward until -front end hole lines up with chain oiler pipe clamp, then install cap -screw and washer, securing guard and clip to sprocket cover. - - -103. CARRIERS. - -=a. Remove Ammunition Box Carrier.= - -(1) Remove nut and screw which secures carrier bracket to front -mudguard. - -(2) Remove nut and lock washer from rocker plate rear stud. This frees -lower end of carrier. - -(3) Remove nut, washer, cable clip, and plain washer from rigid fork -stud. Remove carrier and box. - -=b. Install Ammunition Box Carrier.= - -(1) Locate hole in lower end of bracket on rocker plate rear stud. -Attach upper end of bracket to rigid fork stud. Replace lock washers -and nuts. Tighten nuts. - -(2) Attach carrier bracket to front mudguard with screw, washer, and -nut. Tighten nut. - -=c. Remove and Install Scabbard Carrier.= The procedure for removing -and installing scabbard carrier is the same as outlined for ammunition -box carrier, except that scabbard carrier is on left side of vehicle. -Follow procedure outlined under steps =a= and =b= above. - -=d. Remove Luggage Carrier.= - -(1) Loosen straps of both saddlebags, and remove saddlebags from -keyhole notches in luggage carrier side plates. Remove nuts from right -and left side mounting studs, which secure luggage carrier to frame -clips. Deflate rear wheel tire so that a piece of wood or suitable -object can be used to depress top part of tire under mudguard, to -provide clearance, and access to the three nuts which secure screws for -luggage carrier mudguard mounting. NOTE: _If rear wheel is removed, -mounting screws are accessible._ - -(2) Remove the three luggage carrier center mounting screws. Remove -luggage carrier from vehicle. - -=e. Install Luggage Carrier.= - -(1) Mount luggage carrier on frame clip studs. Install washers and -nuts. With rear tire deflated and depressed for clearance under -mudguard, install the three screws, lock washers, and nuts for -carrier‐mudguard mounting. NOTE: _If rear wheel is removed, mounting -screws are accessible._ - -(2) Tighten frame stud nuts to secure both sides of carrier. - -(3) Attach saddlebags and securely strap to frame stays. - -(4) Inflate tire to 20 pounds. - - -104. MUDGUARDS. - -=a. Remove Front Mudguard.= - -(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125). - -(2) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119), disconnect front mudguard -blackout marker light wire at switch. Pull wire out, free from tanks. - -(3) Remove the two screws and nuts from rigid fork and mudguard -mounting. Remove the two screws and nuts securing lamp bracket to -mudguard. - -(4) Remove bolt and nut which secure ammunition box carrier to mudguard. - -(5) Remove bolt and nut which secure gun scabbard carrier to mudguard. - -(6) Remove nuts from fork left rocker plate stud. These nuts secure -ammunition box lower bracket, and mudguard stay clip. Remove nuts from -fork right rocker plate stud. These nuts secure gun scabbard carrier -lower bracket, and mudguard stay clip. - -(7) Pull carrier brackets off rocker plate studs. Remove mudguard brace -clip locks from slots in clips so that mudguard can be dropped. When -removing mudguard from vehicle, take care not to break and/or damage -blackout light wire. - -=b. Install Front Mudguard.= - -(1) Locate mudguard in mounting position. Engage slots in stay clips -on rocker plate studs, installing the special locks in the clip slots. -NOTE: _Brace clip locks are made for right and left side installation. -Secure both clip locks with stud nuts._ - -(2) Attach ends of ammunition and scabbard carriers to rocker plate -studs. Secure with lock washers and nuts. - -(3) Mount mudguard to rigid fork bracket. Tighten the two screws, -washers, and nuts. - -(4) Attach lower end of headlight bracket to mudguard with two bolts, -washers, and nuts. - -(5) Attach ammunition box carrier bracket to mudguard. Tighten bolt, -washer, and nut. - -(6) Attach gun scabbard carrier bracket to mudguard. Tighten bolt, -washer, and nut. - -(7) Reinstall front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125). - -(8) Connect mudguard blackout light wire to switch terminal. Refer to -wiring diagram, figure 73. - -(9) Install instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -=c. Remove Rear Mudguard.= - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Remove rear wheel (par. 127). - -(2) Remove luggage carrier (par. 103). - -(3) Remove rear chain guard (par. 102). - -(4) Remove the two U‐bolt nuts which mount safety guard at upper frame -bracket. Then pull safety guard away from studs and remove studs from -frame bracket, freeing mudguard at this point. NOTE: _These two studs -screw into a “plate” nut._ - -(5) Remove bolt and nut which secure battery box left‐side bracket to -mudguard. - -(6) Remove bolt and nut which secure battery box right‐side bracket. -This bolt also secures lower tool box bracket and speedometer cable -clip to mudguard. - -(7) Remove nut and washers from bolt which secures lower end of -mudguard to frame (behind transmission). - -(8) Remove taillight connector plugs from sockets and remove cable from -mudguard spring clips. - -(9) Remove nuts from studs which secure right‐ and left‐side mudguard -brace clips to frame axle clips. Mudguard can now be removed from -vehicle. - -=d. Install Rear Mudguard.= - -(1) Locate mudguard in position for mounting. Install the two studs, -washers, and nuts which secure right‐ and left‐side brace clips to -frame axle clips. NOTE: _If brake side cover interferes with locating -nut on right side, loosen the brake sleeve nut and push brake side -cover assembly inward for clearance. Be sure to retighten brake sleeve -nut._ - -(2) Attach front lower end of mudguard. Install flat washer, lock -washer, and nut on bolt to secure lower end of mudguard to frame (in -back of transmission). - -(3) Install the two studs which mount mudguard and upper battery box -bracket on frame bracket. These two studs screw into a plate nut -located underneath the battery box bracket. Removing the battery box -cover will give more access to plate nut in this step. Install battery -box cover if it is removed for this job. - -(4) Attach rear safety guard to the two frame bracket studs. Install -washers and nuts. Securely tighten nuts and tighten U‐bolt nuts, which -secure ends of safety guard to frame stays. - -(5) Attach battery box bracket to mudguard bracket. Install bolt, -washer, and nut which secure battery box right‐side bracket, tool box -bracket lower end, and speedometer cable clip to mudguard bracket. Bolt -is inserted from front side, head toward engine. NOTE: _Speedometer -cable clip is under head of bolt._ - -(6) Attach left‐side mudguard bracket and battery box bracket. Install -bolt, washer, and nut which secure battery box left‐side bracket to -mudguard bracket. Bolt is inserted from front side, head toward engine. - -(7) Install rear chain guard (par. 102). - -(8) Locate and retain taillight cable in mudguard spring clips. Attach -connector plugs to taillights (wiring diagram, fig. 73). - -(9) Install luggage carrier (par. 103). - -(10) Install rear wheel (par. 127). - -(11) Securely tighten all bolts and nuts. - - -105. BATTERY BOX. - -=a. Remove Battery Box.= - -(1) Remove battery (par. 113). - -(2) To remove rear brake rod, disconnect clevis from brake lever, and -free front end of rod at brake shaft bell crank. - -(3) Remove rear chain guard (par. 102). - -(4) Remove tool box and bracket in one piece (par. 106). - -(5) Remove nut and bolt securing left side lower battery box mounting -to mudguard bracket. Remove nut and bolt securing battery front -mounting to frame saddle post tube bracket. - -(6) Remove the two nuts securing rear safety guard center connection -to mounting studs. Unscrew mounting studs to free the plate nut which -clamps the battery box bracket to frame cross member. - -(7) Remove battery box from right side of vehicle. - -=b. Install Battery Box.= Locate battery box in vehicle -from left side and secure upper rear mounting bracket with the two -frame cross member studs and the plate nut. Install washers and nuts -which secure safety guard to these same two studs. - -(1) Install bolt to secure battery box front mounting to frame tube. -Make sure that bolt passes through frame tube bracket from left side, -and that large plain washer bears against battery box front bracket -(bracket has open end). Tighten nut to secure box bracket to frame tube -bracket. - -(2) Install tool box and bracket (par. 106). - -(3) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure battery box left‐side -mounting to mudguard. Insert bolt from the front. - -(4) Install rear chain guard (par. 102). - -(5) Connect rear brake rod end to bell crank fitting. Attach clevis to -brake operating lever, installing plain washer, clevis pin, and cotter -pin. - -(6) Install battery (par. 113). - - -106. TOOL BOX. - -=a. General.= When tool box only is to be removed and/or installed, -it is a simple matter to open box and remove and/or install the three -large screws. Gear‐toothed lock washers and large recessed washers fit -under screw heads. - -=b. Remove Box and Bracket Assembly.= Remove bolt and nut which -secure tool box upper mounting bracket to frame clip. Lower end of -mounting bracket, battery box bracket, and speedometer cable are all -secured to the mudguard bracket by the same bolt and nut. Remove -speedometer cable from clip and remove bolt and nut, freeing tool box -and bracket assembly for removal. NOTE: _Removal of rear brake rod will -make bracket lower mounting bolt and nut more accessible._ - -=c. Install Box and Bracket Assembly.= Locate box and bracket -assembly on vehicle and install bolt, washer, and nut at the upper -frame clip mounting. To attach bracket lower end to mudguard bracket, -place bolt through speedometer cable clip, then through box mounting -bracket, battery box bracket, and mudguard bracket, securing assembly -with lock washer and nut. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310245 - -_Figure 70—Fuel and Oil Tanks Removed_] - - -=107. TANKS= (fig. 70). - -=a. General.= Fuel and oil tanks are separate, fitting together, -saddle‐type, in upper frame tubes, and are retained in position with -three mounting bolts. Either tank can be removed and/or installed -without disturbing line connections of the other tank. - -=b. Fuel Tank.= Fuel tank is located on left side of vehicle and -holds slightly over 3 U.S. gallons. It provides mounting for shifter -lever and shifter lever guide. Drain is located in forward position on -under side of tank. - -=c. Oil Tank.= Oil tank is located on right side of vehicle and holds -1 U.S. gallon. Oil feed pipe, scavenger (return) pipe, and breather -pipe connections are on under side of tank. Drain is located in forward -position on under side of tank. - -=d. Remove Fuel Tank.= - -(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection. - -(2) Loosen the two cap screws which secure caution plate and tank top -strip. - -(3) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -(4) Disconnect gear shifter lever and shifter rod by removing bolt. - -(5) Shut off fuel supply. Disconnect fuel pipe at tank union nipple. - -(6) Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the two front (one -upper and one lower) mounting bolts, and nut, lock washer, and flat -washer from the rear mounting bolt. Leave bolts in place so that oil -tank will stay in position after fuel tank is removed. Remove fuel tank -from vehicle. - -=e. Install Fuel Tank.= - -(1) Position fuel tank on vehicle. Pass the three mounting bolts -through tank brackets from right side of vehicle. It will be necessary -to pry up on tank top strip in order to slip top edge of tank under -strip. Install large flat washers, lock washers, and nuts on mounting -bolts and securely tighten the nuts. - -(2) Tighten the two cap screws, securing caution plate and tank top -strip. - -(3) Connect fuel pipe at tank nipple union. Open supply valve. - -(4) Install instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -(5) Connect gear shifter lever and shifter rod by installing bolt, lock -washer, and nut. - -(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection. - -(7) After fuel tank has been filled, check pipe connection and drain -plug for leaks. - -=f. Remove Oil Tank.= - -(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection. - -(2) Loosen the two cap screws which secure caution plate and tank top -strip. - -(3) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -(4) Drain oil from tank by removing drain plug. Use a trough (of -cardboard or tin) to keep oil from draining on engine. NOTE: _If oil -feed pipe nipple cap (manufacturer’s (H-D) No. 3583-15) is available, -it can be screwed on to tank nipple, thus eliminating draining of oil._ - -(5) Disconnect oil feed pipe at rear nipple union. - -(6) Disconnect scavenger (return) pipe at nipple union. - -(7) Disconnect breather pipe banjo‐type connection by taking out bolt. - -(8) Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the two front -(one upper and one lower) mounting bolts, and nut, lock washer, and -flat washer from rear mounting bolt. NOTE: _To prevent fuel tank -from falling out of frame, remove upper front mounting bolt and rear -mounting bolt and pass both back through fuel tank mounting brackets -from the left side of vehicle. Oil tank can then be removed, and fuel -tank will stay in place._ - -=g. Install Oil Tank.= - -(1) Position oil tank on vehicle. Make sure that composition buffer is -in place before installing mounting bolts from right side of vehicle. -Pry up on tank top strip in order to slip top edge of tank under strip. - -(2) Install large flat washers, lock washers, and nuts on mounting -bolts. Securely tighten the nuts. - -(3) Tighten the two cap screws securing caution plate and tank top -strip. - -(4) Connect oil feed pipe to tank nipple. Tank nipple is located at -lower rear end of tank. - -(5) Connect scavenger (return) pipe to tank nipple. Nipple is located -underneath tank, near center. - -(6) Connect breather pipe with banjo‐type fitting to tank. Use hollow -bolt, making sure flat washers are in place on both sides of banjo -fitting and that mounting bolt is tight. - -(7) Install instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -(8) See that oil tank drain plug and washer are in place, and that the -plug is tight. - -(9) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection. - -(10) After filling oil tank, check all pipe fittings for leaks. - - -108. STANDS. - -=a. Remove Rear Stand.= Remove nuts which secure rear stand mounting -bolts. Drift bolts out of frame clip holes, freeing stand. - -=b. Install Rear Stand.= Locate stand in position so that bracket -stop is downward and will bear against frame axle clips to support -vehicle when stand is in use. See that cupped spring washers are on -mounting bolts before attaching stand to frame. Drift mounting bolts -into frame axle clips and secure with lock washers and nuts. - -=c. Remove Jiffy Stand.= - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. - -(2) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut. Remove footboard front -support rod nut and pull footboard outward to release end of safety -guard. Remove extended nut from footboard sidebar front mounting. -Remove nut securing upper end of skid plate hanger and sidebar rear -mounting (located in center of chain guard cover). Loosen nut and bolt -which secure skid plate hanger bracket to skid plate: drop bracket. -Disconnect clutch control cable from foot pedal stud to prevent damage -to cable end piece. Remove left footboard, clutch foot pedal, and -sidebar assembly from support rod ends. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310269 - -_Figure 71—Saddle and Suspension_] - -(3) Remove the two nuts from U‐bolt which secure safety guard bracket -to frame tube, remove bracket from U‐bolt, and slide safety guard -assembly out of support rod. - -=d. Install Jiffy Stand.= - -(1) Install safety guard assembly on support rod and secure mounting -bracket to frame tube with U‐bolt, washers, and nuts. - -(2) Install footboard, clutch foot pedal, and sidebar assembly. Attach -skid plate hanger bracket and secure to support rod. Attach clutch -control cable end to foot pedal stud, installing plain washer and -cotter pin. Install washer and extended nut on end of front support -rod. Securely tighten nut. Attach front end of sidebar to end of -safety guard by pulling front of footboard outward, alining hole in -safety guard end with hole in sidebar, and passing footboard front -support stud through both parts, securing with washer and nut. Tighten -footboard rear support stud nut. - -(3) Return vehicle to operating position. - - -=109. SADDLE POST= (fig. 71). - -=a.= Saddle is mounted on saddle bar by means of three mounting bolts -and can be shifted forward or backward to provide three positions -on saddle bar. Spacer collars can be added and or removed from the -two rear mountings to raise or lower rear of saddle to alter riding -position. Saddle bar hinges on frame bracket and is clevis‐connected -to saddle spring post. Saddle and saddle bar can be lifted upward and -forward after releasing spring latch (on left side) from groove in -clevis pin end and removing clevis pin from saddle bar. - -=b. Remove Saddle Spring Post.= Support vehicle on rear stand. -Raise saddle and saddle bar after removing saddle post clevis pin. -Remove bolt and nut from left‐side skid plate bracket and remove nut -to free right‐side skid plate bracket at muffler pipe clamp and frame -connection. Drop skid plate. Remove saddle spring post clamp nut, which -is located underneath frame at bottom end of saddle post frame tube. -Saddle spring post assembly can be pulled upward out of frame tube. - -=c. Install Saddle Spring Post.= When saddle spring post assembly is -inserted in frame tube, see that flat side machined on post rod end nut -registers in flat side of hole in bottom of frame tube. Install and -securely tighten saddle spring post clamp nut at bottom end of frame -tube. Lift skid plate and secure in position with left‐side bracket -bolt, washer, and nut and with right bracket bolt, washer, and nut -(this also secures muffler pipe clamp to frame clip). Lower saddle and -saddle bar into position. Insert clevis pin from right side and secure -with spring latch, making sure that spring is in pin groove. - - -110. SAFETY GUARDS. - -=a. Remove Front Safely Guard.= - -(1) Loosen nuts which secure right and left footboard rear support -studs to sidebars. Remove nuts which secure right and left footboard -front support studs (and mount ends of safety guard) to sidebars. Pull -front end of each footboard outward so that support stud will free end -of safety guard. Remove four nuts from the two U‐bolts which mount -safety guard upper bracket to frame tube. Remove safety guard. - -=b. Install Front Safety Guard.= Locate safety guard and mount upper -bracket to frame tube with the two U‐bolts, washers, and nuts, but do -not tighten nuts as yet. Pull front end of right footboard outward, -line up hole in safety guard end with hole in sidebar, and pass -footboard front support stud through both parts, securing with washer -and nut. Follow same procedure to mount left end of safety guard. -Tighten U‐bolt nuts securely. - -=c. Remove Rear Safety Guard.= Remove nuts from U‐bolts which mount -ends of safety guard to lower frame stays. Remove the two nuts from -upper safety guard mounting. After removing U‐bolts, safety guard can -be removed from vehicle. - -=d. Install Rear Safety Guard.= Position safety guard on vehicle. -Install U‐bolts, washers, and nuts for lower end mounting on frame -stays. Do not tighten nuts. Engage upper mounting holes on studs and -replace washers and nuts. Tighten all mounting nuts. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310234 - -_Figure 72—Showing Skid Plate Dropped_] - - -111. SKID PLATE. - -=a.= Rear end of skid plate must be dropped when removing and or -replacing muffler assembly, saddle spring post, transmission, and -engine. - -=b. Drop Skid Plate= (fig. 72). - -(1) Remove nut from bolt which secures skid plate side mounting bracket -to frame clip. This bolt also mounts muffler tube clamp to frame clip. - -(2) Remove left side mounting. Remove nut and bolt which secures lower -end of hanger bracket to skid plate on left side of vehicle. Drop rear -end of skid plate. - -=c. Install Dropped Skid Plate.= - -(1) Lift rear end of skid plate into position. Attach right‐side -bracket at frame clip bolt. Secure mounting with washer and nut. - -(2) Attach lower end of left‐side hanger bracket to skid plate. Install -bolt, washer, and nut. Tighten nut. - -=d. Remove and/or Install Skid Plate.= - -(1) To remove skid plate from vehicle, follow instructions in step b -above; then remove nut and bolt from U‐clamp which secures skid plate -to frame bracket, and remove nut and belt from clamp which secures -right front end to support rod. - -(2) To install skid plate, mount right front end to support rod clamp, -and install bolt and nut to secure U‐clamp under frame bracket. Then -follow instructions in step =c= above. - - - - -Section XXIII - -BATTERY, LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORN - - - Paragraph - Description 112 - Battery 113 - Headlights 114 - Taillights 115 - Ignition and light switch 116 - Horn 117 - Wiring 118 - - -112. DESCRIPTION. - -=a.= Lighting system and horn are supplied 6‐volt current from the -22‐ampere‐hour battery. Negative side of battery and system is -grounded. Blackout lights and service lights are controlled by the -same switch (ignition and light switch) which also controls ignition. -Blackout headlight has auxiliary control switch in body. Service -headlight upper and lower beam is controlled by toggle switch on -left handle bar. Horn is operated by button on left handle bar after -ignition and light switch is in “ON” position. Blackout stop light and -service stop light are operated by brake foot pedal switch. - - -113. BATTERY. - -=a.= The 3‐cell, 15‐plate, 6‐volt, 22‐ampere‐hour battery is located -in battery box back of frame seat post tube, and is accessible for -inspection and or service after removing box cover. Normally charged -battery has specific gravity reading of 1.275. Normally discharged -battery has specific gravity of 1.150. - -=b. Check Electrolyte Level= (fig. 74). - -(1) Raise saddle and bar assembly after releasing and removing swivel -pin. - -(2) Loosen wing thumb nuts on box top hold‐down studs sufficiently to -disengage bracket slots, then lift off box cover. - -(3) Remove the three filler plugs. Check and or adjust electrolyte -level. See that electrolyte level is 5/16 inch above plates. If -necessary, bring electrolyte to that level, using clean, drinkable -water. - -(4) Clean top of battery before installing box cover. - -(5) Clean terminals or posts, if corroded. Make sure that the felt -washers are on posts and are saturated with engine oil. - -=c. Remove Battery.= Raise saddle and bar assembly. Release and -remove swivel pin. Loosen wing thumb nuts on box top hold‐down studs -sufficiently to disengage bracket slots, then lift off box cover. -Disconnect positive and negative wires from battery terminals. Lift -battery upward out of battery box. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310278 - -_Figure 73—Complete Wiring Diagram_ - - 1. SWITCH TERMINAL (Three Wires connected)—=Black= wire from - blackout marker light 24; taillight cable =green= wire from - blackout taillight 22; single wire direct from blackout headlight - as shown by dotted line in illustration 43, or horn and headlight - cable =black= wire from junction terminal 35 as shown in - illustration 44. - - 2. SWITCH TERMINAL (Four wires connected)—Generator and relay - cable =green= wire from “=switch=” terminal (14) of - generator; taillight cable =black= wire from service stop - and taillight (23); horn and headlight cable =red= wire from - junction terminal 17; =black= wire from speedometer light (11). - - 3. SWITCH TERMINAL (Two wires connected)—Generator and relay cable - =red= wire from terminal marked “BAT” on relay; coil and - battery cable =red= wire from junction terminal 18. - - 4. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—=Black= wire from oil - signal light terminal (10). - - 5. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Taillight cable - =yellow= wire from blackout stop lamp (21). - - 6. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Battery and coil cable - =black= wire from junction terminal 19. - - 7. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Taillight cable =red= - wire from service stop and taillight (23). - - 8. GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Generator - and relay cable =black= wire from relay right front terminal. - - 9. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (One wire - connected)—=Black= wire from oil pressure switch (16). - - 10. SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (Four wires connected)—=Black= wire - (under switch panel) from generator signal light terminal (8); - =black= wire from switch terminal (4); battery and coil cable - =green= wire from coil front terminal; horn and headlight - cable =green= wire from horn. - - 11. SPEEDOMETER LIGHT—=Black= wire from switch terminal 2. - - 12. BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL (LEFT SIDE)—=Red= wire with - =black= tracer from junction terminal 18. - - 13. BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (RIGHT SIDE)—=Black= wire from - ground clamp on frame. - - 14. “SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR—Generator and relay cable - =green= wire from switch terminal 2. - - 15. “RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR—=Red= wire with =black - tracer= from relay rear terminal. - - 16. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL SWITCH—=Black= wire from signal light - terminal 9. - - 17. JUNCTION TERMINAL (BAKELITE TERMINAL PLATE ON HORN - MOUNTING)—Horn and headlight cable =red= wire from switch - terminal 2,—=red= wire with =black tracer= from - handlebar toggle switch (31). - - 18. FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL (in motorcycle frame, under - saddle)—Coil and battery cable =red= wire from switch - terminal 3; =red= wire with =black tracer= from battery - positive terminal (12). - - 19. REAR JUNCTION TERMINAL (in motorcycle frame, under - saddle)—Coil and battery cable =black= wire from switch - terminal 6; =red= wire from stop light switch (20). - -RA PD 310278B - - 20. STOP LIGHT SWITCH—=Red= wire from junction terminal 19; - =green= wire from coil terminal. - - 21. BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT (Top socket in right taillight)—Taillight - cable =yellow= wire from switch terminal 5. - - 22. BLACKOUT TAILLIGHTS—Taillight cable =green= wire from - switch terminal 1. - - 23. SERVICE TAIL AND STOP LIGHT (top socket in left taillight—two - wires in one plug)—Taillight cable =black= wire from switch - terminal 2 is for service taillight, and taillight cable =red= - wire from switch terminal 7 is for service stop light. - - 24. BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT (ON FRONT MUDGUARD)—=Black= wire - from switch terminal 1. - - 25. SERVICE HEADLIGHT—=Black= wire with =red tracer= - from handlebar toggle switch (31) to large terminal screw; - =red= wire with =yellow tracer= from handlebar toggle - switch to small terminal screw. - - 26. IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH (TOP VIEW)—Switch “OFF” in - straight‐ahead position. - - 27. BLACKOUT HEADLIGHT—Blackout headlight is fitted with - independent switch in lamp body. - - 28. SPARK COIL—Coil and battery cable =green= wire from - terminal 10 to coil front terminal; =green= wire from stop - light switch (20) to coil front terminal; low tension wire (34) - from circuit breaker (33) to coil rear terminal. - - 29. HORN—Horn and headlight cable =green= wire from terminal - 10; =black= wire from horn switch (30). - - 30. HORN SWITCH—=Black= wire from horn. - - 31. HANDLEBAR TOGGLE SWITCH—=Black= wire with =red - tracer= from service headlight terminal with large terminal - screw; =red= wire with =yellow tracer= to service - headlight terminal with small terminal screw; =red= wire with - =black tracer= from junction terminal 17. - - 32. CUT‐OUT RELAY—=Red= wire with =black tracer= from - “=relay=” terminal of generator to relay rear terminal; - generator and relay cable =red= wire from switch terminal 3 to - relay terminal marked “BAT”; generator and relay cable =black= - wire from terminal 8, to relay right front terminal. - - 33. IGNITION CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER—Low tension wire (34) from - coil rear terminal. - - 34. CIRCUIT BREAKER‐TO‐COIL LOW TENSION WIRE—See Description 33. - - 35. JUNCTION TERMINAL ON BAKELITE TERMINAL PLATE—Horn and - headlight cable =black= wire from switch terminal 1; wire from - blackout headlight (27). - -All WLA model motorcycles originally equipped with radio interference -suppression‐devices, or to which suppression‐devices have been added, -can be identified by a large letter S stenciled on left and right sides -of instrument panel cover. - - =*A= GROUND TERMINALS ON COIL HOUSING. - =*B= FLEXIBLE BRAID CONDUCTOR. - =*C= CONDENSER. - =*D= SHIELDED CIRCUIT BREAKER‐TO‐COIL LOW TENSION WIRE. - =*E= SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS. - =*H= CONDENSER. - -RA PD 310278C - -_Legend for Figure 73—Complete Wiring Diagram_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310247 - -_Figure 74—Battery Box Open and Filler Plugs Removed for Service_] - -=d. Install Battery.= See that rubber mat is in place in bottom of -battery box and install battery in box so that positive post is on left -side of vehicle, and negative post is on right side of vehicle. Connect -wires to battery positive and negative posts. Fit rubber mat on top -of battery. Install cover and securely tighten thumb wing nuts. Lower -saddle and bar assembly. Install swivel pin on right side of vehicle so -that retaining spring fits in groove in end of swivel pin. - - -114. HEADLIGHTS. - -=a. Service Headlight.= - -(1) Remove nut which secures light body to bracket, observing that -conical washer bears against cup of bracket for secure light mounting. -Disconnect wires from light body terminals. - -(2) Before installing service headlight, connect wires to light body -terminals, noting that black wire with red tracer connects with the -larger terminal screw. Mount light on bracket. Position conical‐shaped -washer and lock washer and install mounting stud nut. Do not tighten -mounting nut. - -=b. Adjust Service Headlight.= Adjustment should be made in darkened -area or at night, tactical situation permitting. Vehicle must be -standing on a level surface about 25 feet away from and headed toward a -wall or screen upon which a horizontal line has been drawn at exactly -the same height as service headlight center. Set handle bar toggle -switch in “BRIGHT” position and check light beam for height and -direction. The top of main beam of light should register on wall or -screen even with, but not higher than, the horizontal line mentioned. -Tilt light body in bracket up or down to correctly aim it in relation -to the horizontal line, making sure that light body is not turned -either to right or left. Securely tighten mounting stud nut. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310275 - -_Figure 75—Blackout Headlight Installation_] - -=c. Blackout Headlight.= Blackout headlight is mounted on bracket -which attaches to left upper side of front fork. Blackout headlight -operates when ignition and light switch is turned to the second right -position. However, blackout headlight is fitted with an independent -switch in light body to permit turning it off while other blackout -lights are in use. Blackout headlight body is secured to mounting -bracket by means of a conical washer, lock washer, and mounting nut, -providing a swivel mounting to permit light adjustment. - -=d. Blackout Marker Light.= The blackout marker light is secured to -front mudguard by means of a hollow mounting stud, with plain washer, -lock washer, and nut. Light wire passes through hollow stud and is -protected by tubing on under side of mudguard. Blackout marker light -wire connects with No. 1 post on ignition and light switch. Lamp is on -with ignition and light switch in second right position. - - -115. TAILLIGHTS. - -=a. Blackout Stop and Taillight.= Blackout stop and taillight is -mounted on right side of taillight bracket. Light is provided with -top unit to provide blackout stop light controlled by brake‐operated -stop light switch. Bottom unit in the blackout stop and taillight is -regularly used as service blackout taillight and is controlled by -ignition and light switch. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310272 - -_Figure 76—Ignition and Light Switch, Front and Back Positions_] - -=b. Service Stop and Taillight.= Light is located on left side of -light mounting bracket. Top unit is used for service stop and taillight -(double filament lamp). Taillight filament is controlled by ignition -and light switch; stop lamp filament is controlled by brake‐operated -stop light switch. Stop light does not operate in daytime when ignition -only is turned on. Bottom unit serves as a spare blackout taillight. -In case the regularly used (right‐side) blackout taillamp fails, its -socket plug can be transferred to this taillight socket. - -=c. Stop and Taillight Switch.= This switch is operated by brake -pedal and is located on end of rear support rod on right side of -vehicle. Refer to wiring diagram (fig. 73) and paragraph 118 for wiring -connections. - - -116. IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH. - -=a.= Earlier models are provided with lock, later models are -non‐locking. - -[Illustration: - - =8=—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT. - =14=—GENERATOR TERMINAL TO SWITCH. - =15=—GENERATOR TERMINAL TO RELAY. - =26=—IGNITION‐LIGHT SWITCH. - =32=—RELAY. - =35=—TERMINAL STRIP BINDING POST. - =36=—MAGNETIC SWITCH FOR BLACKOUT LIGHT. - =H=—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER. - -RA PD 310279 - -_Figure 77—Blackout Headlight Magnetic Switch on Later Models_] - -=b. Remove.= Disconnect battery ground wire. Remove instrument panel -cover (par. 119). Disconnect all wires from switch. Remove the four -switch mounting screws and spacers. Switch is now free for removal. - -=c. Install.= Mount switch on instrument panel base. Install four -screws and spacers. Connect wires (fig. 73). Connect battery negative -ground wire to frame. Turn switch on. Check lights and horn, tactical -situation permitting. Install instrument panel cover (par. 119). - -[Illustration: RA PD 310270 - -_Figure 78—Wiring Cables, Left Side_] - -[Illustration: RA PD 310271 - -_Figure 79—Wiring Cables, Right Side_] - - -117. HORN. - -=a. Description.= Horn is mounted to headlight bracket by means of -four bolts, lock washers, and nuts. One horn terminal is connected with -operating button, and other terminal is connected to No. 4 ignition and -light switch terminal (fig. 73). - -=b. Adjust.= Tone adjusting screw is located in rear side of horn. If -horn fails to operate and moving the adjusting screw does not remedy -the trouble, horn must be replaced. NOTE: _Do not change position of -the adjusting screw located in center of diaphragm._ - - -118. WIRING. - -=a. Cable System.= Since ignition and lights are controlled by the -ignition and light switch, all wires terminate at the ignition and -light switch. Cables for wire protection are used, making it necessary -to replace cables rather than individual wires. A study of figure 73 -will be helpful when removing or installing any of the wiring cables. -Also study figures 78 and 79 and note how cables are arranged on frame, -and how they lead to the switch panel. - -=b. Remove and Install Cables.= When it becomes necessary to replace -wiring cables leading to the ignition and light switch, both fuel and -oil tanks must be removed (par. 107) and instrument panel cover removed -(par. 119) for accessibility. - - - - -Section XXIV - -INSTRUMENT PANEL - - - Paragraph - Panel cover 119 - Indicator lights 120 - Speedometer head 121 - - -=119. PANEL COVER= (fig. 80). - -=a. Remove.= Remove speedometer light switch knob and remove screw. -Remove hexagon‐head screw on front of cover. Remove two screws from -side of cover. Remove two screws and washers which fasten plate to -right side of cover. Lift cover off panel. - -[Illustration: RA PD 315731 - -_Figure 80—Panel Cover Removed_] - -=b. Install.= Position cover on panel. Install two side mounting -screws and washers and install hexagon‐head screw, plain washer, and -lock washer in front end of cover. Attach cover side plate, installing -two screws and washers. Install speedometer light switch knob and screw. - - -120. INDICATOR LIGHTS. - -=a.= Three 2-c.p. single‐contact lamps are located on instrument panel. -One for oil pressure (red) indicator light: one for generator‐charge -(green) indicator light, and one for speedometer illumination. - -=b. Remove and/or Install.= Remove and/or install panel cover (par. -119). - -=c. Test Generator‐Charge (Green) Indicator Lamp.= Disconnect black -wire from relay terminal (top terminal at front end of relay) and -ground on relay base. Turn ignition and light switch on. Lamp should -light. If it does not light, check wire for condition and/or replace -lamp after removing panel cover (par. 119). - -=d. Test Oil Pressure (Red) Indicator Lamp.= Disconnect wire from oil -pressure switch. Ground the wire on engine. Turn ignition and light -switch on. Lamp should light. If it does not light, check wire for -condition and/or replace lamp after removing panel cover (par. 119). If -lamp and wiring are satisfactory, replace oil pressure switch. - - -121. SPEEDOMETER HEAD. - -=a. Remove.= Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119). Loosen the -two tank front mounting bolts and remove rear mounting bolt to free -speedometer cable clamp. Disconnect speedometer cable at drive unit. -Free cable from clip located below tool box. Remove two screws which -mount head to frame. Pull head upward, working cable forward under -tank, until head and cable connection nut is clear of frame. Unscrew -cable nut. NOTE: _Cable may be secured to frame tube, between tanks, -with friction tape. If so, cut tape._ - -=b. Install.= Attach speedometer head to cable end and tighten nut. -Pass cable down into frame hole, pulling on rear of cable at same time. -Mount speedometer head to frame with two screws and lock washers. -Install panel cover (par. 119). Secure cable clamp under head of tank -rear mounting bolt. Secure cable in clip, located under tool box. -Attach end of cable to drive unit. Tighten the two tank front mounting -bolts. - - - - -Section XXV - -TIRES, WHEELS, AND HUBS - - - Paragraph - Description 122 - Tires 123 - Rims and spokes 124 - Front wheel replacement 125 - Front wheel hub adjustment 126 - Rear wheel replacement 127 - - -122. DESCRIPTION. - -=a.= Wheels have drop center rims to accommodate 4.00 x 18 tires. -Front and rear wheels are not interchangeable. Front wheel hub is -of ball‐bearing design, having cone adjustment similar to that of a -bicycle hub. Rear wheel hub is of roller‐bearing design and must be -taken apart for adjustment. Both wheels have “knock‐out” type axles. - - -123. TIRES. - -=a. Description.= Wheel rims are of the drop‐center type, having a -depression, or well, in center of rim. The rim well, being smaller in -circumference than the rest of the rim, allows one casing bead to fit -loosely in it while other bead is being worked over edge of rim. Bear -in mind the importance of keeping one bead in rim well while other bead -is being worked onto or off rim. NOTE: _It is not always necessary to -completely remove casing from rim. Removing one side only allows inner -tube to be removed and reinstalled, and also allows inside of casing to -be inspected._ - -=b. Remove.= - -(1) Remove wheel from vehicle and lay wheel on its side. To remove -front wheel, refer to paragraph 125. To remove rear wheel, refer to -paragraph 127. - -(2) Remove valve cap and valve core to free all air from tube. - -(3) Press casing head into rim well to within a short distance of each -side of valve. - -(4) Using tire iron “B” in vehicle kit (fig. 11), start bead over edge -of rim at valve. Do not use force when starting bead over edge of rim -with tire iron, because bead wires may be broken or stretched, and tire -ruined. With first bead in rim well, bead on other side can be started -easily over edge of rim. After a portion of second bead is started over -rim edge, casing can be further removed from wheel without aid of tire -iron. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310254 - -_Figure 81—Disassembly for Front Wheel Removal_] - -=c. Install.= Before applying casing to rim, see that rubber rim -strip is in place in rim well and that rim strip valve hole alines with -valve hole in rim. - -(1) Start either bead of casing over rim edge. Work around wheel until -entire bead is on rim. - -(2) Place inner tube in casing. NOTE: _Inner tube may be placed in -casing before or after first bead of casing is on rim._ Insert valve -stem through hole in rim and start valve stem lock nut. While pressing -first bead into rim well, work remaining bead over edge of rim, -starting directly opposite valve stem. Work both ways around wheel -toward valve. - -(3) Inflate front tire to 18 pounds, and rear tire to 20 pounds. - -(4) Reinstall front wheel (par. 125): reinstall wheel (par. 127). -CAUTION: _Tire casings are balanced and must be applied to rim with -balance mark located at valve stem. On Firestone tires the balance mark -is a red triangle, and on Goodyear tires a red dot._ - - -124. RIMS AND SPOKES. - -=a.= Wheels with broken and or missing spokes, with rims in badly -kinked and or distorted condition, or having considerable run‐out, must -be replaced. - -=b.= Loose wheel spokes must be tightened evenly, being careful not -to distort rim out‐of‐round or cause run‐out. Use spoke nipple wrench -(41-W-3339) for front wheel spokes, and wrench (41-W-3340) for rear -wheel spokes. - - -=125. FRONT WHEEL REPLACEMENT= (fig. 81). - -=a. Remove.= - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Raise front end of vehicle by -blocking up under frame loop on skid plate. - -(2) Remove brake shackle bolt from rigid fork on left side of vehicle. - -(3) Front axle is knock‐out type. Remove cotter pin and axle castle -nut and pull out axle. Wheel is free for removal. CAUTION: _Before -removing axle note how slot in brake stabilizer plate is fitted over -the extended (button) end of the left‐front rocker plate stud. It is -necessary that this be correctly assembled when replacing front wheel._ - -(4) Roll wheel forward and remove brake assembly from brake drum, -leaving the assembly attached to brake control wire and control wire -housing. - -=b. Install= (fig. 81). NOTE: _At the time wheel and brake assembly -is located in front fork, and before axle is installed, make sure that -the curved slot in brake stabilizer plate engages with the button end -of the left‐front rocker plate stud._ - -(1) Install brake assembly in brake drum. - -(2) Roll wheel into position. Engage stabilizer plate notch and rocker -plate stud button end, and at same time insert front axle. - -(3) Install castle nut (no lock washer used) on axle and securely -tighten. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310252 - -_Figure 82—Front Hub Prepared for Cone Adjustment_] - -(4) Use good cotter pin to secure nut. - -(5) Install brake shackle bolt and special lock washer and nut. Tighten -nut. - -(6) Check front brake control wire and housing to make sure everything -is in order and correctly adjusted (par. 97). - -(7) Remove blocking from under vehicle. - - -126. FRONT WHEEL HUB ADJUSTMENT. - -=a.= Front wheel, ball‐bearing hub, is similar to a bicycle front hub -as far as adjustment is concerned. Do not completely disassemble hub -for adjustment as balls are not in retainers, and will fall out when -cone is removed. Hub is provided with grease deflector sleeve and felt -retainer. NOTE: _Earlier models are not equipped with grease deflector -sleeve or felt retainer washer. Front wheel should have slight play or -shake on bearings, and should turn freely._ - -[Illustration: RA PD 315733 - -_Figure 83—Disassembly for Rear Wheel Removal_] - -(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125). - -(2) Back off cone lock nut to end of axle sleeve. Do not remove nut. - -(3) Turn cone on axle sleeve to the right (clockwise) to take up wheel -play, and to the left (counterclockwise) to give more wheel play. -Adjust so that wheel has slight play on bearing. - -(4) Tighten cone lock nut. After tightening nut, again try for slight -wheel play on bearing. Sometimes tightening lock nut takes up on -bearing play. If necessary, readjust for desired results when cone lock -nut is tight. - -(5) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125). - -(6) Check adjustment of front brake. - - -=127. REAR WHEEL REPLACEMENT= (figs. 83 and 84). - -=a. Remove.= - -(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. - -(2) Release mudguard rear stays. Loosen mounting nuts, and raise end of -mudguard for wheel clearance. - -[Illustration: RA PD 310253 - -_Figure 84—Brake Rod Lock_] - -(3) Remove the five wheel mounting socket screws which secure wheel -hub to brake shell and sprocket assembly. Use vehicle kit wrench “S” -and sleeve (handle) “C” (fig. 11). NOTE: _Wrench can be inserted from -left side through holes in hub, and wheel must be turned to bring each -mounting screw directly to the rear of axle for accessibility._ - -(4) Use brake rod lock to set and lock brake to prevent brake shell and -sprocket from coming off brake assembly while wheel is being removed. -Apply brake pedal and shift brake rod lock against tool box bracket, -securing lock in this position with wing nut (fig. 84). - -(5) Remove axle nut (right side of vehicle), using vehicle kit wrench -“J” (fig. 11). - -(6) Pull out axle from left side of vehicle. - -(7) Remove spacer from between wheel hub end and left side of frame. - -(8) Wheel is now free to come out by pulling and working it away from -dowel pins located in brake shell assembly. A wheel being removed for -the first time may offer some resistance. It will be observed that -chain, sprocket, and brake assembly remain in the vehicle frame. - -=b. Install= (figs. 83 and 84). - -(1) Position wheel on brake shell dowel pins. Work hub onto dowels as -far as it will go. - -(2) Install axle spacer at left end of hub so that axle will pass -through it and the hub. - -(3) Install axle from left side of vehicle. Pass it through sleeve and -hub, with end of axle engaging the frame left axle clip notch. - -(4) See that lock washer is in place. Turn on and securely tighten axle -nut, using vehicle kit wrench “J” (fig. 11). - -(5) Loosen wing nut clamping brake rod lock. Move brake rod lock -forward so that it will not strike any object when brake is operated; -tighten wing nut to retain in position (fig. 84). - -(6) Install and securely tighten the five wheel mounting socket screws. - -(7) Lower mudguard into position and attach ends of rear stays. -Securely tighten the clamping nuts. - - - - -REFERENCES - - - STANDARD NOMENCLATURE LISTS - Motorcycle, chain drive (Harley‐Davidson) SNL G-523 - - Cleaning, preserving and lubricating materials, - recoil fluids, special oils, and miscellaneous - related items SNL K-1 - - Soldering, brazing, and welding materials, gases, - and related items SNL K-2 - - Tools, maintenance, for the repair of automotive - vehicles SNL G-27 - - Tool sets—motor transport SNL N-19 - - Tool sets for ordnance service command, automotive - shops SNL N-30 - - Current Standard Nomenclature Lists are listed above. - - An up‐to‐date list of SNL’s is maintained in the - Index to Maintenance Publications OFSB 1-1 - - - EXPLANATORY PUBLICATIONS - Military motor vehicles AR 850-15 - - Automotive Materiel - Automotive electricity TM 10-580 - Electric fundamentals TM 10-455 - The motor vehicle TM 10-510 - Chassis, body, and trailer units TM 10-550 - - Maintenance and Repair - Automotive lubrication TM 10-540 - Motor transport inspections TM 10-545 - Tire repair and retread TM 9-1868 - Cleaning, preserving, lubricating and welding - materials and similar items issued by the - ordnance TM 9-850 - Detailed lubrication instructions for ordnance - materiel OFSB 6-series - - Protection of Materiel - Explosives and demolitions FM 5-25 - Defense against chemical attack FM 21-40 - Decontamination of Armored Force vehicles FM 17-59 - Chemical decontamination, materials and equipment TM 3-220 - - List of Publications for Training FM 21-6 - - Storage and Shipment - Registration of motor vehicles AR 850-10 - Storage of motor vehicle equipment AR 850-18 - Ordnance storage and shipment chart, - group G—Major items OSSC-G - - - - -INDEX - - - A Page No. - - Air cleaner, 122 - - Allocation of maintenance by echelons, 40 - - Ammunition box carrier, 169 - - Armature bearing special lubrication, 145 - - Auxiliary brake, 12 - - - B - - Battery, lighting system, horn - battery - check electrolyte level, 181 - installation, 185 - removal, 181 - description, 181 - horn - adjustment, 190 - description, 190 - ignition and light switch - installation, 188 - removal, 188 - service headlights - adjustment, 185 - blackout, 186 - marker, 187 - taillights - blackout stop and taillight, 187 - service stop and taillight, 187 - wiring - cable system, 190 - removal and installation, 190 - - Brake system - brake shoe installation, 151 - brake shoe removal, 150 - front wheel brake, 151 - rear wheel brake - adjustment, 149 - linkage, 149 - - - C - - Carburetor - adjustment, 116 - bowl cleaning, 120 - installation, 118 - removal, 118 - - Chains and sprockets - chain oilers, 109 - chain repair tool, 113 - countershaft sprocket replacement, 114 - engine sprocket replacement, 113 - front chain adjustment, 105 - front chain replacement, 111 - rear chain adjustment, 107 - rear chain replacement, 111 - rear wheel alinement, 107 - - Clutch - control adjustment, 85 - description, 86 - disk and spring inspection, 91 - disk installation, 93 - disk removal, 90 - maintenance and adjustment, 86 - release bearing - installation, 95 - removal, 95 - spring tension adjustment, 89 - - Controls and operation - controls - auxiliary brake (front wheel), 12 - carburetor choke, 13 - clutch, 10 - foot starter crank, 12 - gasoline valve, 9 - gear shifter, 12 - ignition and light switch, 12 - instrument panel signal lights, 13 - service brake (rear wheel), 12 - spark, 10 - steering damper, 12 - throttle, 10 - driving precautions - avoid low gear operation, 17 - braking, 17 - high‐speed tips, 17 - engine prestarting instructions, 13 - operation of vehicle - starting on level ground, 16 - starting on uneven or soft ground, 16 - running‐in new engine (or vehicle), 19 - starting engine - behavior of instrument panel signal lights, 15 - cold engine, 14 - engine with dead battery, 15 - hot engine, 15 - warm engine, 14 - stopping and parking vehicle - parking vehicle, 18 - stopping vehicle, 17 - stopping the engine, 16 - towing vehicle to start engine - engine starting with dead battery, 18 - - - D - - Data, tabulated - engine, 72 - vehicle specifications, 7 - capacities, 8 - performance, 7 - - Description - battery, lighting system, horn, 181 - clutch, 86 - engine, 72 - generating system, 142 - ignition system, 129 - intake and exhaust system, 122 - tires, wheels and hubs, 193 - transmission, 96 - - Description of vehicle, 7 - - - E - - Echelon system of maintenance allocation, 40 - - Engine - carbon removal, 74 - data, 72 - description, 72 - head, gasket replacement - installation, 74 - removal, 73 - installation, 82 - oil feed pump replacement, 77 - removal, 78 - tune‐up, 72 - valve tappet adjustment, 74 - - Exhaust system, 126 - - - F - - First echelon preventive maintenance services - after‐operation and weekly service, 25 - at‐halt service, 24 - before‐operation service, 21 - during‐operation service, 23 - purpose, 20 - - Fuel system - carburetor - installation, 118 - removal, 118 - carburetor adjustment - complete readjustment of carburetor, 116 - low speed adjusting needle, 116 - carburetor bowl cleaning, 120 - fuel pipe - installation, 121 - removal, 121 - fuel strainer - cleaning, 120 - install strainer assembly, 120 - remove strainer assembly, 120 - general, 115 - throttle control wire adjustment - closed throttle, 118 - open throttle, 118 - - - G - - Generating system - armature bearing special lubrication, 145 - commutator cleaning, 143 - cut‐out relay, 147 - description, 142 - generator installation, 147 - generator removal, 145 - - Generator removal and installation, 145, 147 - - - H - - Horn, 190 - - - I - - Ignition system - circuit breaker and timer assembly installation, 133 - recommended recheck of ignition timing, 135 - removal, 133 - circuit breaker points - adjustable contact point installation, 131 - adjustable contact point removal, 131 - adjustment, 131 - breaker lever installation, 131 - breaker lever removal, 130 - coil to timer wire - installation, 138 - removal, 138 - condenser - installation, 133 - removal, 131 - description, 129 - spark coil - installation, 140 - removal, 139 - spark control adjustment, 139 - spark plugs - cleaning, 129 - point adjustment, 129 - replacement, 129 - type, 129 - - Installation procedure - air cleaner, 126 - ammunition box carrier, 169 - battery, 185 - battery box, 173 - carburetor, 118 - circuit breaker and timer assembly, 133 - circuit breaker lever, 131 - circuit breaker points, 131 - clutch release bearing, 95 - coil to timer wire, 138 - condenser, 133 - control wire housings, 166 - engine, 82 - engine head gasket, 74 - exhaust pipe, 127 - foot starter, 98 - fork assembly, 158 - front wheel, 196 - fuel pipe, 121 - fuel strainer assembly, 120 - fuel tank, 175 - generator, 147 - handle bar assembly, 163 - ignition and light switch, 188 - instrument panel cover, 191 - jiffy stand, 177 - luggage carrier, 170 - mudguards, 171 - muffler assembly, 127 - oil tank, 176 - outer front chain guard, 167 - rear chain guard, 169 - rear stand, 176 - rear wheel, 199 - saddle post, 178 - safety guards, 178 - scabbard carrier, 169 - skid plates, 180 - spark coil, 140 - spark control wire, 166 - speedometer, 192 - spring forks, 154 - starter crank springs, 101 - steering damper, 161 - throttle control wire, 165 - tires, 195 - tool box and bracket assembly, 173 - upper bumper springs, 155 - upper coil springs, 155 - wiring, 190 - - Instrument panel - indicator lights, 191 - panel cover - installation, 191 - removal, 191 - speedometer - installation, 192 - removal, 192 - - Intake and exhaust system - air cleaner - general, 122 - installation, 126 - maintenance, 123 - removal, 125 - service, 122 - air cleaner mounting bracket replacement, 126 - description - exhaust, 122 - intake, 122 - exhaust system - muffler assembly installation, 127 - muffler assembly removal, 126 - pipe installation, 127 - hose and carburetor fitting - installation, 125 - removal, 125 - - Introduction - scope of manual, 3 - supersession of quartermaster manuals, 3 - - - L - - Lighting system, 181 - - Lubrication - introduction, 30 - lubrication guide, 30 - general, 30 - lubrication notes, 30 - oilcan points, 34 - supplies, 30 - warning light, 34 - - - M - - Maintenance allocation - allocation of maintenance by echelons - clutch, 40 - controls and linkage, 40 - electrical group, 41 - engine (V‐45″ twin engine), 41 - exhaust group, 42 - miscellaneous, 42 - suspension (front), 43 - suspension (rear), 43 - tires, 44 - transmission, 44 - vehicle assembly, 44 - scope of maintenance, 39 - - Manual, scope of, 3 - - - O - - Organization tools and equipment, 60 - - - P - - Preventive maintenance services - first echelon, 20 - second echelon, 45 - - - R - - References - explanatory publications - automotive materiel, 200 - list of publications for training, 200 - maintenance and repair, 200 - protection of materiel, 200 - storage and shipment, 200 - standard nomenclature lists, 200 - - Removal procedure - air cleaner, 125 - ammunition box carrier, 169 - battery, 181 - battery box, 172 - carbon, 74 - carburetor, 118 - circuit breaker and timer assembly, 133 - circuit breaker lever, 130 - condenser, 131 - control wire housings, 166 - engine, 78 - engine head gasket, 73 - foot starter, 98 - fork assembly, 155 - front wheel, 195 - fuel pipe, 121 - fuel strainer assembly, 120 - fuel tank, 174 - generator, 145 - handle bar assembly, 162 - ignition coil to timer wire, 138 - instrument panel cover, 191 - jiffy stand, 176 - luggage carrier, 170 - mudguards, 170, 171 - muffler assembly, 126 - oil tank, 175 - outer front chain guard, 167 - rear chain guard, 169 - rear stand, 176 - rear wheel, 198 - release bearing (clutch), 95 - saddle post, 178 - safety guards, 178 - scabbard carrier, 169 - skid plates, 180 - spark coil, 139 - spark control wire, 166 - speedometer, 192 - spring forks, 154 - starter crank spring, 98 - steering damper, 161 - throttle control wire, 164 - tires, 193 - tool box and bracket assembly, 173 - upper bumper springs, 155 - upper coil springs, 155 - - Road test chart of maintenance operations, 49 - - - S - - Second echelon preventive maintenance - road test chart, 47 - maintenance operation, 49 - services - first echelon participation, 45 - frequency, 45 - general procedures, 45 - specific procedures, 47 - - Sheet metal and equipment - battery box - installation, 173 - removal, 172 - carriers - ammunition box carrier installation, 169 - ammunition box carrier removal, 169 - fuel tank - installation, 175 - removal, 174 - chain guards - outer front chain guard installation, 167 - outer front chain guard removal, 167 - rear chain guard installation, 169 - rear chain guard removal, 169 - jiffy stand - installation, 177 - removal, 176 - luggage carrier - installation, 170 - removal, 170 - mudguard (front) - installation, 171 - removal, 170 - mudguard (rear) - installation, 171 - removal, 171 - oil tank - installation, 176 - removal, 175 - rear stand - installation, 176 - removal, 176 - saddle post - description, 178 - installation, 178 - removal, 178 - safety guards - installation, 178 - removal, 178 - scabbard carrier - installation, 169 - removal, 169 - skid plates - installation, 180 - removal, 180 - tanks - fuel tank, 173 - general, 173 - oil tank, 173 - tool box - box and bracket assembly installation, 173 - box and bracket assembly removal, 173 - - Spark plugs, 129 - - Speedometer - installation, 192 - removal, 192 - - Steering control - control wire housings - installation, 166 - removal, 166 - fork assembly (complete) - installation, 158 - removal, 155 - rocker plate studs, 160 - forks (springs) - installation, 154 - removal, 154 - handle bar controls - install throttle control wire, 165 - remove throttle control wire, 164 - handle bars - installation of assembly, 163 - removal of assembly, 162 - spark control wire - installation, 166 - removal, 166 - steering damper - installation, 161 - removal, 161 - upper coil springs and upper bumper springs - installation, 155 - removal, 155 - - Stowage on vehicle (tools and equipment), 35 - - - T - - Tabulated data - engine, 72 - vehicle specifications, 7 - capacities, 8 - performance, 7 - - Tires, wheels, and hubs - description, 193 - front wheel - hub adjustment, 197 - installation, 196 - removal, 195 - rear wheel - installation, 199 - removal, 198 - rims and spokes, 195 - tires - description, 193 - installation, 195 - removal, 193 - - Tools and equipment stowage on the vehicle - vehicle equipment, 36 - vehicle spare parts, 38 - vehicle tools, 35 - - Transmission - control linkage - adjustment, 97 - checking gear shifter control linkage, 96 - transmission shifted to adjust front drive chain, 96 - description, 96 - foot starter - installation, 98 - removal, 98 - installation, 101 - removal, 99 - starter crank springs - installation, 98 - removal, 98 - - Trouble shooting - brakes, 70 - electrical system, 68 - engine - instruction, 61 - tests to determine mechanical condition, 63 - engine lubricating system, 64 - fuel system, 65 - generating system, 68 - ignition system, 66 - introduction, 61 - steering, 71 - transmission and clutch, 69 - wheels and chains, 69 - - - W - - Wheels and hubs, 195 - - Wiring, 190 - - - - -[A.G. 300.7 (17 Aug. 1943)] - -BY ORDER OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR: - - G. C. MARSHALL, - _Chief of Staff_. - - - OFFICIAL: - J. A. ULIO, - _Major General_, - _The Adjutant General_. - - - DISTRIBUTION: R9 (4): IR 5, 7 and 17 (5): Bn 9 (2): IBn 5, 6, - 7 and 17 (5): C9 (8): IC 5, 6, 7 and 17 (5) - -(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6) - -RAPD3OEC43-81M - -PUBLICATIONS DEPARTMENT ‐ RARITAN ARSENAL - - - - -Transcriber’s notes: - -In the Fig. 51 caption M—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD -AND HAND - ‘HAND’ should possibly read ‘BAND’. - -In the echelon table, section 25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE, ‘strained -gasoline’ should possibly read ‘strainer gasoline’. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Motorcycle, Solo (Harley-Davidson -Model WLA) Technical Manual No. 9, by United States War Department - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARLEY-DAVIDSON MODEL WLA *** - -***** This file should be named 51058-0.txt or 51058-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/0/5/51058/ - -Produced by deaurider, Brian Wilcox and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Motorcycle, Solo (Harley-Davidson Model WLA) Technical Manual No. 9-879 - -Author: United States War Department - -Release Date: January 27, 2016 [EBook #51058] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARLEY-DAVIDSON MODEL WLA *** - - - - -Produced by deaurider, Brian Wilcox and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="486" height="600" alt="cover" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="heading"> -<tr> -<th class="tdr" colspan="3"><a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">1</a><span class="sansserif">TM 9–879</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<th class="tdc" colspan="3"><span class="sansserif">RESTRICTED</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc" rowspan="3"><span class="sansserif">TECHNICAL MANUAL <br />No. 9–879 </span></td> -<td class="giantm">⎫<br />⎬<br />⎭</td> -<td class="tdr"><span class="sansserif">WAR DEPARTMENT</span><br /><span class="sansserif add4em sansserif">Washington, 18 October 1943</span></td> -</tr></table></div> - - -<h1 id="MOTORCYCLE_SOLO"><span class="sansserif">MOTORCYCLE, SOLO</span><br /> - -<span class="smaller sansserif">(Harley‐Davidson Model WLA)</span></h1> - - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p class="noindent"><span class="small sansserif"><i>Dissemination of restricted matter.—The information contained -in restricted documents, and the essential characteristics of -restricted materiel, may be given to any person known to be in the -service of the United States, and to persons of undoubted loyalty -and discretion who are cooperating in Government work, but will not -be communicated to the public or to the press except by authorized -military public relations agencies.</i> (<i>See also paragraph 18b, AR -380–5, 28 September 1942.</i>)</span></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2 id="CONTENTS"><span class="sansserif">CONTENTS</span></h2> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="2" summary="toc"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc" colspan="5"><span class="sansserif">PART ONE—VEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> </td> -<td class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraphs</span></td> -<td class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Pages</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Section</span></td> -<td class="tdr vertt">I</td> -<td><p class="indent">Introduction</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">1–2</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_3">3</a>–6</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">II</td> -<td><p class="indent">Description and tabulated data</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">3–4</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_7">7</a>–8</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">III</td> -<td><p class="indent">Controls and operation</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">5–13</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_9">9</a>–19</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">IV</td> -<td><p class="indent">First echelon, preventive maintenance services</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">14–18</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_20">20</a>–29</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">V</td> -<td><p class="indent">Lubrication</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">19–20</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_30">30</a>–34</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">VI</td> -<td><p class="indent">Tools and equipment stowage on the vehicle</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">21–23</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_35">35</a>–38</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th class="tdc" colspan="5"><span class="sansserif">PART TWO—ORGANIZATIONAL MAINTENANCE</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Section</span></td> -<td class="tdr vertt">VII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Maintenance allocation</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">24–25</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_39">39</a>–44</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">VIII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Second echelon preventive maintenance services</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">26</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_45">45</a>–59</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">IX</td> -<td><p class="indent">Organization tools and equipment</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">27</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">X</td> -<td><p class="indent">Trouble shooting</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">28–38</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_61">61</a>–71</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XI</td> -<td><p class="indent">Engine</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">39–44</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_72">72</a>–77</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Engine—removal and installation</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">45–46</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_78">78</a>–84</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XIII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Clutch</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">47–52</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_85">85</a>–95</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XIV</td> -<td><p class="indent">Transmission</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">53–58</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_96">96</a>–104 -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XV</td> -<td><p class="indent">Chains and sprockets</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">59–66</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_105">105</a>–114</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XVI</td> -<td><p class="indent">Fuel system</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">67–74</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_115">115</a>–121</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XVII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Intake and exhaust system</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">75–81</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_122">122</a>–128</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XVIII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Ignition system</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">82–89</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_129">129</a>–141</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XIX</td> -<td><p class="indent">Generating system</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">90–95</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_142">142</a>–148</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XX</td> -<td><p class="indent">Brake system</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">96–97</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_149">149</a>–153</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XXI</td> -<td><p class="indent">Steering control</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">98–101</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_154">154</a>–166</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XXII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Sheet metal and equipment</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">102–111</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_167">167</a>–180</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XXIII</td> -<td><p class="indent">Battery, lighting system, horn</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">112–118</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_181">181</a>–190</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XXIV</td> -<td><p class="indent">Instrument panel</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">119–121</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_191">191</a>–192</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr vertt">XXV</td> -<td><p class="indent">Tires, wheels, and hubs</p></td> -<td class="tdr vertb">122–127</td> -<td class="tdr vertb"> <a href="#Page_193">193</a>–199</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">References</span></td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Index</span></td> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -<td class="tdr vertb"><a href="#Page_201">201</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">1</span></a> For supersession of quartermaster manuals, refer to paragraph <a href="#para_2">2.</a></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h2 id="PART_ONE_OPERATING_INSTRUCTIONS"><span class="sansserif">PART ONE—OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS</span></h2></div> - -<h3 id="Section_I"><span class="small sansserif">Section I</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">INTRODUCTION</span></h3> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc I"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Scope</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_1">1</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Supersession of quartermaster manuals</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_2">2</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_1">1. SCOPE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> This technical manual<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> is published for the information -and guidance of the using arm personnel charged with the operation, -maintenance, and minor repair of this materiel.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> In addition to a description of the Harley‐Davidson -motorcycle, this manual contains technical information required for -the identification, use, and care of the materiel. The manual is -divided into two parts. Part One, section I through section VI, gives -vehicle operating instructions. Part Two, section VII through section -XXV, gives vehicle maintenance instructions to using arm personnel -charged with the responsibility of doing maintenance work within their -jurisdiction.</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications, -or adjustment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the -responsible ordnance service should be informed so that trained -personnel with suitable tools and equipment may be provided, or proper -instructions issued.</p> - -<h4 id="para_2">2. SUPERSESSION OF QUARTERMASTER MANUALS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> This technical manual, together with TM 9–1879, supersedes -and replaces the following Quartermaster Corps publications:</p> - -<p class="hangingindent8">(1) TM 10–1175—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, -Harley‐Davidson (Model 42–WLA), 11 September 1941.</p> - -<p class="hangingindent8">(2) TM 10–1177—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, -Harley‐Davidson (Models 1940–41–42), 11 September 1941.</p> - -<p class="hangingindent8">(3) TM 10–1331—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, chain drive -Harley‐Davidson (Model 42 WLA, solo).</p> - -<p class="hangingindent8">(4) TM 10–1359—Instruction folder (45–A) motorcycles, solo, -Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941.</p> - -<p class="hangingindent8">(5) TM 10–1361—Instruction folder (45–B) motorcycle, solo, -Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 404px;"> -<a name="fig_1" id="fig_1"></a> -<img src="images/i_004.jpg" width="404" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315708<br /> - -<i>Figure 1—Top View of Motorcycle</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_2" id="fig_2"></a> -<img src="images/i_005.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315709<br /> -<i>Figure 2—Left Side View of Motorcycle</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_3" id="fig_3"></a> -<img src="images/i_006.jpg" width="600" height="356" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315710<br /> - -<i>Figure 3—Right Side View of Motorcycle</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">2</span></a> To provide operating instructions with the materiel, this -technical manual has been published in advance of complete technical -review. Any errors or omissions will be corrected by changes or, if -extensive, by an early revision.</p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_II"><span class="small sansserif">Section II</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc II"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_3">3</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Data</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_4">4</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_3">3. DESCRIPTION (figs. <a href="#fig_1">1</a>, <a href="#fig_2">2</a>, and <a href="#fig_3">3</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> This 2‐cylinder solo motorcycle is powered by a V‐type, -air‐cooled gasoline engine, operating on conventional 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle -principles. Air‐cooled engines rely upon movement of air over cylinder -and head radiating fins, and upon circulation of oil for dissipation -of excessive heat. Motorcycle engines, therefore, under no conditions -should be operated for more than 1 minute when motorcycle is not in -motion.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_4">4. DATA.</h4> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="data"> -<tr> -<td class="vertt" colspan="2"><b>a. Vehicle Specifications.</b></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Type of engine</td><td class="tdr vertb">2‐cylinder, V‐type L‐head, air‐cooled</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Cylinder bore</td><td class="tdr vertb">2¾ in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Stroke</td><td class="tdr vertb">3<sup>13</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt" colspan="2"><p class="indent">Engine number (serial) left side engine base, below front cylinder.</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Wheelbase</td><td class="tdr vertb">4 ft 11½ in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Length over‐all</td><td class="tdr vertb">7 ft 4 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Width over‐all (handle bars)</td><td class="tdr vertb">3 ft 5 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Wheel size</td><td class="tdr vertb">18 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Tire size</td><td class="tdr vertb">4.00 × 18 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Tire type</td><td class="tdr vertb">Drop center</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Weight of vehicle (without rider or armament)</p></td><td class="tdr vertb">540 lb.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Ground clearance (skid plate)</td><td class="tdr vertb">4 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Kind and grade of fuel</td><td class="tdr vertb">Gasoline: 72 octane or higher</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">High gear ratio</td><td class="tdr vertb">4.59:1</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Engine sprocket</td><td class="tdr vertb">31‐tooth</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Countershaft sprocket</td><td class="tdr vertb">17‐tooth</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Rear wheel sprocket</td><td class="tdr vertb">41‐tooth</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt" colspan="2"><b>b. Performance.</b></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Maximum allowable speed</td><td class="tdr vertb">65 mph</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Miles per gallon (hard surface)</td><td class="tdr vertb">35</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Cruising range (without refill)</td><td class="tdr vertb">100 miles -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Fording depth (carburetor)</td><td class="tdr vertb">18 in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt" colspan="2"><b>c. Capacities.</b></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Fuel capacity (left tank)</td><td class="tdr vertb">3<sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> U.S. gal</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Oil tank capacity (right tank)</td><td class="tdr vertb">1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> U.S. gal</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">Transmission capacity</td><td class="tdr vertb">¾ pt</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_III"><span class="small sansserif">Section III</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">CONTROLS AND OPERATION</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc III"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Controls</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_5">5</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Engine prestarting instructions</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_6">6</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Starting the engine</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_7">7</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Stopping the engine</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_8">8</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Operation of vehicle</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_9">9</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Driving precautions</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_10">10</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Stopping and parking vehicle</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_11">11</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Towing vehicle to start engine</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_12">12</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Running‐in new engine (or vehicle)</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_13">13</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_4" id="fig_4"></a> -<img src="images/i_009.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310201<br /> - -<i>Figure 4—Controls</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_5">5. CONTROLS (<a href="#fig_4">fig. 4</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Controls are peculiar to the motorcycle. The rider must -become thoroughly familiar with the location and use of all control -devices before attempting to operate vehicle.</p> - -<p id="para_5b"><b>b. Gasoline Valve</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_5">5</a> and <a href="#fig_6">6</a>). Gasoline valve is located in -left tank, forward. Valve is closed by turning to the right, finger -tight. Turning to left opens valve. Valve is in normal operating -position<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> when turned to left, with valve head down. Lifting valve head -releases emergency supply of fuel (3 quarts).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_5" id="fig_5"></a> -<img src="images/i_010.jpg" width="600" height="284" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310202<br /> -<i>Figure 5—Fuel Supply Valve</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_6" id="fig_6"></a> -<img src="images/i_010bot.jpg" width="600" height="278" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310293<br /> -<i>Figure 6—Fuel Supply Valve Positions</i></p></div> - -<p><b>c. Throttle.</b> The throttle is controlled by right handle -bar grip. Turning grip inward opens throttle, turning it outward closes -throttle.</p> - -<p><b>d. Spark.</b> Spark is controlled by left handle bar grip. -Turning grip inward advances spark, turning it outward retards spark.</p> - -<p><b>e. Clutch</b> (<a href="#fig_7">fig. 7</a>). Clutch is operated by left foot -(rocker‐type) pedal, connecting with steel cable, which actuates -clutch release lever. Pedal is located on left side of motorcycle -above footboard. Forward downward (toe) position of pedal engages -clutch. Rear downward (heel) position of pedal disengages clutch. Foot -pedal provided with friction device to retain it in either engaged or -disengaged position.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_7" id="fig_7"></a> -<img src="images/i_011.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310204<br /> -<i>Figure 7—Clutch Pedal Positions</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_8" id="fig_8"></a> -<img src="images/i_011bot.jpg" width="600" height="504" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310205<br /> -<i>Figure 8—Gear Shifter Lever Positions</i></p></div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span></p> - -<p><b>f. Service Brake (Rear Wheel).</b> Foot pedal is located on -right side of motorcycle at forward end of footboard.</p> - -<p><b>g. Auxiliary Brake (Front Wheel).</b> Auxiliary brake is -operated by hand lever located on left handle bar. It is used in -conjunction with service brake, as an emergency brake, or for holding -vehicle while starting engine on grade. CAUTION: <i>Brake is to be -applied lightly and cautiously on wet and slippery roads.</i></p> - -<p><b>h. Gear Shifter</b> (<a href="#fig_8">fig. 8</a>). Shifter lever is located on -left tank, forward position, and operates within a guide. Shifter lever -guide is notched for positive location of gears and each position is -identified, front to rear: “1”—low gear; “N”—neutral; “2”—second -gear; “3”—direct high gear.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_9" id="fig_9"></a> -<img src="images/i_012.jpg" width="600" height="335" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RA PD 310206<br /> -<i>Figure 9—Carburetor Choke Lever Positions</i></p></div> - -<p><b>i. Steering Damper.</b> Steering damper is an adjustable -friction device to damper turning action of forks, steady front wheel, -and prevent wobble in rough terrain or at high speeds, and is located -on top of steering head in center of handle bars. Move handle to right -to apply desired friction.</p> - -<p><b>j. Foot Starter Crank</b> (<a href="#fig_1">fig. 1</a>). The foot starter crank -is located on right side of motorcycle. Gear shifter lever must be in -neutral position, and clutch foot pedal in forward engaged position, -before using foot starter crank. Starter crank normally is in upward -position. Straddle motorcycle, place right foot on starter crank, and -shift weight of body for forceful downward crank operation to start -engine.</p> - -<p><b>k. Ignition and Light Switch.</b> Earlier models are -provided with switch lock, later models are nonlocking. Switch is off -in straight‐forward position. First position to right is for engine -ignition only.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> Second position to right is for ignition and blackout -lights. To use vehicle service lights, depress button to turn switch to -third right position.</p> - -<p><b>l. Instrument Panel Signal Lights.</b> Instead of an ammeter -and oil pressure gage, signal lights indicate generator charging, and -engine oil pressure.</p> - -<p>(1) Green light is located on left side of instrument panel. When -engine is running, and light is out, it indicates generator is charging.</p> - -<p>(2) Red light is located on right side of instrument panel. When engine -is running, and light is out, it indicates engine oil is circulating.</p> - -<p><b>m. Carburetor Choke</b> (<a href="#fig_9">fig. 9</a>). Choke lever is in full -prime position when all the way up, and in normal running position when -all the way down.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_6">6. ENGINE PRESTARTING INSTRUCTIONS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Before the engine is started, perform the Before‐operation -Service outlined in paragraph <a href="#para_15">15</a>. Special care must be taken during -starting and warming‐up period to avoid unnecessary engine wear.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> The rider must acquire correct motorcycle engine starting -habits, and learn to do the job the quickest, easiest, and most -dependable way. The following pointers will be helpful to the beginner -as well as to a seasoned rider:</p> - -<p>(1) Mount (straddle) motorcycle to obtain firm grip on handle bars.</p> - -<p>(2) Leave side stand (jiffy stand) outward to support vehicle while -operating foot starter crank with right foot.</p> - -<p>(3) Engine starting will be benefited by use of front wheel, -hand‐operated brake, to prevent vehicle from rolling or shifting during -starting kicks. This is especially helpful if vehicle is parked on an -incline or on soft, uneven surface.</p> - -<p id="para_6c"><b>c.</b> The procedure outlined below is preparatory to starting -either cold, warm, or hot engine:</p> - -<p>(1) Place gear shifter lever in “N” (neutral) position (<a href="#fig_8">fig. 8</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) See that gasoline shut‐off valve is open (<a href="#fig_5">fig. 5</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Engage clutch (<a href="#fig_7">fig. 7</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Spark control (left) grip must be turned inward to fully advanced -position, or nearly so.</p> - -<p>(5) Foot starter crank may travel ½ way downward before starting -engine. See that a full vigorous starter stroke is used. A vigorous -kick, using a full swing (not a jab) of right leg and hip, is correct -engine starting practice.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span></p> - - -<h4 id="para_7">7. STARTING THE ENGINE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Procedure for starting cold, warm, or hot motorcycle engines -differs. Therefore, following instructions are used with paragraph <a href="#para_6c">6 c</a> -to cover correct procedure in all three cases.</p> - -<p><b>b. Starting Cold Engine.</b> When vehicle has not been -operated for some time, and engine is normally cold, follow progressive -procedure for easiest starting.</p> - -<p>(1) Set carburetor choke lever in full upward (closed) position.</p> - -<p>(2) Open throttle wide by turning right grip inward as far as it will -go.</p> - -<p>(3) Prime cylinders by operating foot starter crank one or two strokes.</p> - -<p>(4) Set carburetor choke lever in ¼ to ½ closed position for mild -weather starting: ¾ closed (or leave fully choked) for extremely cold -weather starting. CAUTION: <i>It is only in extremely cold weather -that engine may start best with choke fully closed, and even then it -will have to be moved from this position immediately after engine is -started.</i></p> - -<p>(5) Set throttle (right) grip to slightly open position.</p> - -<p>(6) Turn ignition switch on, first right position.</p> - -<p>(7) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.</p> - -<p>(8) When engine starts, set throttle for moderate idling speed for -warming up, or until ready to set vehicle in motion. Do not race engine -unnecessarily.</p> - -<p>(9) After engine warms up, and misfires due to an overrich mixture, -gradually move choke lever downward. After engine has thoroughly warmed -up, move choke lever to fully open (downward) position.</p> - -<p><b>c. Starting Warm Engine.</b> Following instructions apply -to engine when halfway between hot and cold. With engine in this -condition, carburetor choking must be handled cautiously.</p> - -<p>(1) Lift choke lever to first upward position from normal (¼ closed).</p> - -<p>(2) Set throttle (right) grip to fully closed (outward) position.</p> - -<p>(3) Operate foot starter crank one or two strokes.</p> - -<p>(4) Set throttle grip to between ¼ and <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> open position.</p> - -<p>(5) Turn ignition switch on.</p> - -<p>(6) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.</p> - -<p>(7) Soon after engine starts, choke lever must be moved to fully open -(downward) position.</p> - -<p>(8) Turn throttle grip to control idling speed of engine.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span></p> - -<p><b>d. Starting Hot Engine.</b> If engine has been shut off for -only a brief period and is near normal operating temperature, it is not -necessary to use carburetor choke lever. With some engines, depending -upon carburetor condition and adjustment, hot starting is easier and -more dependable if foot starter crank is operated one stroke before -turning ignition switch on.</p> - -<p>(1) Close throttle grip by turning fully outward.</p> - -<p>(2) Turn ignition switch on.</p> - -<p>(3) Operate foot starter crank to start engine.</p> - -<p>(4) When hot engine does not start readily after two or three strokes -of the foot starter crank, it is usually due to an overrich (flooded) -condition, and the proper procedure then is to open throttle wide so -that more air can enter: close throttle quickly after engine starts. -CAUTION: <i>After engine has warmed up to a normal operating temperature, -do not allow engine to stand idling for longer than a 1 minute -interval.</i></p> - -<p><b>e. Starting Engine with Dead Battery.</b> See paragraph <a href="#para_12">12</a>.</p> - -<p id="para_7f"><b>f. Behavior of Instrument Panel Signal Lights.</b> Function -of generator (green) signal light depends upon action of cut‐out -relay; engine oil pressure (red) signal light depends upon action -of oil feed pump. Rider must, therefore, thoroughly understand -operating characteristics of both signal lights to judge condition of -generator‐battery circuit and pressure in engine oil circulating system.</p> - -<p>(1) When ignition light switch is turned to first (right) position, -preparatory to starting engine, both green and red signal lights should -go on. CAUTION: <i>When switch is turned on, immediately after engine has -been primed by cranking, red (oil pressure) signal light may not light -at once, but will light after a few seconds, due to oil pressure built -up by cranking, and is most likely to be noticed in cold weather.</i></p> - -<p>(2) With engine started and running at medium idling speed, both signal -lights should go off. CAUTION: <i>Should oil pressure (red) signal light -fail to go off at speeds above idling, conditions must be brought to -attention of unit mechanic.</i></p> - -<p>(3) At slow idle speed, or under approximately 20 miles per hour road -speed (in high gear), generator (green) signal light will normally -flash on and off, because at that speed generator voltage output is -very low and unsteady. CAUTION: <i>Should generator (green) signal -light fail to go off at speed above approximately 20 miles per hour, -generator is either not charging at all, or its current output is not -up to normal, and generator should be given attention at once.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span></p> - - -<h4 id="para_8">8. STOPPING THE ENGINE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Stop engine only by turning ignition and light switch to off -(straight‐ahead) position, to prevent discharge of battery through -spark coil primary circuit.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_9">9. OPERATION OF VEHICLE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Starting on Level Ground.</b> The engine having been -warmed up and checked for satisfactory operation, the vehicle (with -operator in riding position) is put in motion as follows:</p> - -<p>(1) Transfer body weight to right leg.</p> - -<p>(2) Fold back side stand (jiffy stand).</p> - -<p>(3) Disengage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with heel of left -foot.</p> - -<p>(4) Shift gear shifter lever into “1” (low) gear position.</p> - -<p>(5) Slowly engage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with toe of -left foot.</p> - -<p>(6) When clutch starts to “take hold,” open throttle sufficiently to -maintain engine speed.</p> - -<p>(7) Accelerate gradually to between 12 and 15 miles per hour in low -gear.</p> - -<p>(8) Close throttle quickly.</p> - -<p>(9) Disengage clutch.</p> - -<p>(10) Shift through “N” (neutral) position into “2” (second) gear.</p> - -<p>(11) Reengage clutch and accelerate to about 25 miles per hour.</p> - -<p>(12) Close throttle quickly.</p> - -<p>(13) Disengage clutch.</p> - -<p>(14) Shift into “3” (high) gear.</p> - -<p>(15) Reengage clutch and accelerate to desired speed.</p> - -<p><b>b. Starting on Uneven or Soft Ground.</b></p> - -<p>(1) If standing on an incline or in loose, heavy ground, more engine -power will be required to start vehicle without stalling engine.</p> - -<p>(2) It may be necessary to keep vehicle from rolling by keeping -pressure on front brake hand lever. Brake pressure is released after -vehicle starts in forward motion.</p> - -<p>(3) Open throttle and engage clutch at same time to provide power -needed for starting, without racing engine unnecessarily.</p> - -<p>(4) Motorcycle starts should be made without excessive application of -power, with consequent unnecessary spinning of rear wheel.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_10">10. DRIVING PRECAUTIONS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Practice will enable a rider to judge at what rate of speed -the motorcycle should be moving before he shifts from a lower to -higher<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> gear, and engine should never be permitted to labor unduly, -when a shift of gears, higher to lower, would improve operation.</p> - -<p>(1) Operator must not look down at gear shifter when shifting gears, -but keep his eyes on the road ahead. Do not ride the clutch. The -operator’s foot should rest on clutch foot pedal only when he is -operating it. When shifting gears, disengage clutch fully to avoid gear -damage and shifting difficulties. CAUTION: <i>Many transmissions are -ruined through failure to disengage clutch fully when shifting gears.</i></p> - -<p><b>b. Braking.</b> Rear wheel service brake must be in such -condition that medium‐hard application will cause rear wheel to lock. -Application of service brake should be gradual, with just enough force -to accomplish desired result.</p> - -<p>(1) Auxiliary front wheel brake, when used in conjunction with service -brake, must be applied with caution, especially on wet, muddy, or -slippery roads.</p> - -<p>(2) After passing through water, the brakes should be set slightly, and -the vehicle operated for a short distance, until sufficient heat has -been generated to dry the brakes.</p> - -<p><b>c. Avoid Low Gear Operation.</b> Always operate vehicle -in highest gear possible, consistent with tactical situation, speed -required, power required, and kind and nature of road substance, to -prevent overheating of engine.</p> - -<p><b>d. High Speed Tips.</b> Only experienced riders should -indulge in high‐speed riding. A motorcycle operated for long distances -at high speed must be given closer than ordinary attention to avoid -serious engine overheating with consequent damage. For better -motorcycle service, apply the following suggestions:</p> - -<p>(1) Develop habit of frequently snapping throttle shut for an instant -when running at high speed. This draws additional lubrication to piston -and cylinder and assists in cooling engine.</p> - -<p>(2) In cool weather, operate engine slowly until it is thoroughly -warmed up, to avoid damage to pistons, rings, cylinders, and other -parts before oil is warm enough to circulate freely.</p> - -<p>(3) If handle bar windshield and leg shields are used, engine is -more likely to overheat with continued high‐speed riding. Watch this -carefully.</p> - -<p>(4) Adjust “steering damper” for best control of motorcycle consistent -with riding speed and condition and nature of road.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_11">11. STOPPING AND PARKING VEHICLE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Stopping Vehicle.</b> Rider will make a “restart” easier -and quicker if he will apply the following instructions upon stopping -vehicle:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Close throttle.</p> - -<p>(2) Disengage clutch.</p> - -<p>(3) Apply brake (or brakes) to slow vehicle without sliding rear tire.</p> - -<p>(4) Just before coming to a complete stop, shift into “N” (neutral) -position and engage clutch. CAUTION: <i>If immediate restart is to be -made, shift into “1” (low) gear and allow clutch foot pedal to remain -in disengaged position. (Rider will be mounted on motorcycle with -engine running.)</i></p> - -<p>(5) Continue brake application to complete stop.</p> - -<p>(6) After vehicle slows to point where it can no longer be balanced by -steering, place left foot on ground to maintain balance until right -foot can be removed from brake operating pedal. CAUTION: <i>Do not idle -engine longer than 1 minute.</i></p> - -<p>(7) Stop engine by turning ignition switch off.</p> - -<p><b>b. Parking Vehicle.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Lean motorcycle on side (jiffy) stand.</p> - -<p>(2) Shift into “1” (low) gear.</p> - -<p>(3) Engage clutch so vehicle cannot roll.</p> - -<p>(4) Shut off gasoline supply by turning valve (to right) finger‐tight -against its seat.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_12">12. TOWING VEHICLE TO START ENGINE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> In emergencies when engine cannot be started with foot -starter crank, it can be started by towing the motorcycle.</p> - -<p>(1) Set gear shifter lever in “2” (second) gear position.</p> - -<p>(2) Disengage clutch.</p> - -<p>(3) Choke carburetor.</p> - -<p>(4) Turn ignition switch on.</p> - -<p>(5) After momentum of the towed motorcycle reaches between 10 and 15 -miles per hour, engage clutch, and continue procedure until engine -starts.</p> - -<p><b>b. Engine Starting with Dead Battery.</b> Emergency engine -starting with dead battery can be effected by making use of freshly -charged battery, or by towing as outlined above. If vehicle with dead -battery is to be towed for engine starting, proceed as follows:</p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect battery negative wire from ground on right side of -motorcycle.</p> - -<p>(2) Tow motorcycle for engine starting.</p> - -<p>(3) After engine is started, reconnect battery ground wire to frame to -prevent damage to electrical system.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_13">13. RUNNING‐IN NEW ENGINE (OR VEHICLE).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> A new motorcycle engine or newly overhauled engine must be -given proper “break‐in” consideration for at least the first 1,000 to -1,200 miles of service. Failure to do this may result in damage that -will put engine out of active service within a short period of time.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> At the first 250 miles, check front and rear drive chains -to make sure they are receiving required amount of oil for ample -lubrication. If necessary, have chain oilers adjusted by unit mechanic. -Drive chains must be inspected for correct adjustment, and be given -attention by unit mechanic as needed.</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> At first 500 miles, drain oil tank and refill with fresh -oil. Check front and rear chains (step b above). Thereafter, follow -instructions in Maintenance Operation section.</p> - -<p><b>d.</b> After a new motorcycle has been run 500 to 1,000 miles it -needs to be thoroughly checked over and any loose screws and nuts -tightened. Particular attention must be given engine and transmission -mounting bolts and nuts, and to rear wheel mounting socket screws.</p> - -<p><b>e.</b> Following pointers must be observed when running‐in new -engine or newly overhauled engine:</p> - -<p>(1) Do not exceed 30 miles per hour during first 100 miles.</p> - -<p>(2) Do not exceed 35 miles per hour during next 200 miles.</p> - -<p>(3) Do not exceed 40 miles per hour during next 400 miles.</p> - -<p>(4) Do not exceed 50 miles per hour during next 500 miles.</p> - -<p>(5) Avoid use of low gears during break‐in operation as much as -possible.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_IV"><span class="small sansserif">Section IV</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">FIRST ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc IV"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Purpose</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_14">14</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Before‐operation service</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_15">15</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>During‐operation service</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_16">16</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>At‐halt service</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_17">17</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>After‐operation and weekly service</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_18">18</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_14">14. PURPOSE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> To insure mechanical efficiency it is necessary that the -vehicle be systematically inspected at intervals each day it is -operated and weekly, so that defects may be discovered and corrected -before they result in serious damage or failure. Certain scheduled -maintenance services will be performed at these designated intervals. -The services set forth in this section are those performed by driver or -crew before operation, during operation, at halt, after operation, and -weekly.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Driver preventive maintenance services are listed on the back -of “Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,” -W.D. Form No. 48, to cover vehicles of all types and models. Items -peculiar to specific vehicles, but not listed on W.D. Form No. 48, are -covered in manual procedures under the items to which they are related. -Certain items listed on the form that do not pertain to the vehicle -involved are eliminated from the procedures as written into the manual. -Every organization must thoroughly school each driver in performing the -maintenance procedures set forth in manuals, whether or not they are -listed specifically on W.D. Form No. 48.</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this -vehicle are expanded in this manual to provide specific procedures for -accomplishment of the inspections and services. These services are -arranged to facilitate inspection and conserve the time of the driver, -and are not necessarily in the same numerical order as shown on W.D. -Form No. 48. The item numbers, however, are identical with those shown -on that form.</p> - -<p><b>d.</b> The general inspection of each item applies also to any -supporting member or connection, and generally includes a check to see -whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or -excessively worn.</p> - -<p>(1) The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual -inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or -serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by -the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> not broken -or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or -cut.</p> - -<p>(2) The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” -is usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its -normal assembled position in the vehicle.</p> - -<p>(3) The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually -an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for -looseness. Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock -washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.</p> - -<p>(4) “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn close to, or -beyond, serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not -replaced before the next scheduled inspection.</p> - -<p><b>e.</b> Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics -beyond the scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the -earliest opportunity to the designated individual in authority.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_15">15. BEFORE‐OPERATION SERVICE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to -see that the vehicle has not been tampered with, or sabotaged since the -After‐operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions may -have rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation and it is the duty of -the driver to determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to -carry out any mission to which it is assigned. This operation will not -be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations.</p> - -<p><b>b. Procedures.</b> Before‐operation Service consists of -inspecting items listed below according to the procedure described, -and correcting or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of -the service, results should be reported promptly to the designated -individual in authority.</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Item 1, Tampering and Damage.</span> Look for any injury to -vehicle in general, its accessories or equipment, that may have been -caused by tampering, sabotage, collision, falling debris, or shell fire -since parking vehicle. Look for loosened or damaged accessories, loose -fuel or oil lines, or any disconnected linkage.</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Item 3, Fuel and Oil.</span> Inspect tanks for fuel and oil -levels, add oil and fuel as necessary. Any appreciable change in levels -since performing After‐operation Service should be investigated and -reported to designated authority.</p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Item 4, Accessories and Drives.</span> Examine all accessories -such as carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose -connections, loose mountings, or leaks. Examine rear chain (final -drive) for free up‐and‐down movement (slack), midway between sprockets. -Total up‐and‐down movement must not be more than 1 inch, nor less than -½ inch. Inspect rear chain for adequate lubrication.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Item 6, Leaks, General.</span> Examine vehicle and ground under -vehicle for indications of fuel or oil leaks. Normally a few drops of -waste oil from chains may be expected to drop from skid plate.</p> - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Item 11, Glass.</span> Clean glass on instruments; clean and -adjust rear view mirror; inspect glass for breakage.</p> - -<p>(6) <span class="smcap">Item 12, Lamps.</span> If tactical situation permits, observe -whether blackout and service lights operate with switch in its -respective positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that -lights are secure, and that lenses are clean and not broken. Observe -whether both filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch -on left handle bar is moved to its respective positions.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Item 13, Wheels, Axle Nuts and Screws.</span> Examine rear wheel -mounting socket screws, front and rear axle nuts, and front fork rocker -stud nuts for tightness. Observe rear chain adjusting screws for secure -locking. Inspect spokes for good condition and tightness.</p> - -<p>(8) <span class="smcap">Item 14, Tires.</span> Examine tires for cuts or imbedded objects -in treads or carcass. If time permits, check air pressure, which should -be 18 pounds front, and 20 pounds rear (tires cold). Inspect valve caps -for presence and secure mounting.</p> - -<p>(9) <span class="smcap">Item 15, Springs and Suspension.</span> Examine front fork -springs for secure mounting and good condition. Push down rear of -saddle to test for full action of saddle post spring.</p> - -<p>(10) <span class="smcap">Item 16, Steering and Handle Bar Controls.</span> Test steering -head bearing adjustment by exerting strong upward pull at handle bar -grips, and observing whether or not there is any noticeable play in -bearing. Operate steering damper lever and observe that damper is -compressed before lever reaches right‐side position, and is fully -released with lever in left‐side position. Test handle bar grip -controls for full, free action; also test for complete opening and -closing of throttle, and full advance and retard of timer.</p> - -<p>(11) <span class="smcap">Item 17, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, -and Stands.</span> Examine these items for good condition and secure -mounting.</p> - -<p>(12) <span class="smcap">Item 21, Tools and Equipment.</span> Inspect tools and equipment -for presence, serviceability, and proper stowage. (See tool list in -par. <a href="#para_21">21</a>.)</p> - -<p>(13) <span class="smcap">Item 7, Engine Warm‐up.</span> Start engine, noting any tendency -toward hard starting, or improper action of foot starter crank. Set -throttle to moderate idle speed. Listen for unusual noises. Watch -instrument indications and engine performance, such as misfiring. -CAUTION: <i>Do not idle engine longer than 1 minute with vehicle -standing</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span></p> - -<p>(14) <span class="smcap">Item 8, Choke.</span> During idling of engine, reset choke as -required to prevent excessive choking and dilution of engine oil.</p> - -<p>(15) <span class="smcap">Item 9, Instruments.</span> When switch is turned on and engine -is idling at moderate speed both red light (indicating oil pressure) -and green light (indicating generator action) should be out. At lower -operating speeds generator‐indicating light may flicker. CAUTION: <i>Do -not operate engine with red light on (no oil pressure)</i>.</p> - -<p>(16) <span class="smcap">Item 10, Horn.</span> Tactical situation permitting, test horn.</p> - -<p>(17) <span class="smcap">Item 22, Engine Operation.</span> Engine should idle smoothly. -Accelerate and decelerate, listening for any unusual noises that -may indicate compression or exhaust leaks, worn, damaged, loose, or -inadequately lubricated engine parts, or accessories. Note any unusual -smoke from exhaust.</p> - -<p>(18) <span class="smcap">Item 23, Driver’s Permit, Accident Report Form No. 26, and -Vehicle Manual.</span> These items must be present on vehicle and safely -stowed.</p> - -<p>(19) <span class="smcap">Item 25, During‐operation Service.</span> The During‐operation -Service should start immediately after vehicle is put in motion, in the -nature of a road test.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_16">16. DURING‐OPERATION SERVICE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as -rattles, knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Be alert -to detect any odor of overheated components or units such as generator, -brakes, or clutch, fuel vapor from a leak in fuel system, exhaust gas, -or other signs of trouble. Any time the brakes are used, gears shifted, -or vehicle turned, consider this a test and notice any unsatisfactory -or unusual performance. Watch the instruments constantly. Notice -promptly any unusual instrument indication that may signify possible -trouble in system to which the instrument applies.</p> - -<p><b>b. Procedures.</b> During‐operation Service consists of -observing items listed below according to the procedures following each -item, and investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice -minor deficiencies to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity, -usually at next scheduled halt.</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Item 27, Foot and Hand Brakes.</span> The foot brake should -operate smoothly and effectively, leaving reserve pedal travel of 1 -inch. Normal free play before operation is 1 inch. Test hand brake -lever for free play, which should be ¼ of total handle travel. Test for -ease and smoothness of operation.</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Item 28, Clutch.</span> Inspect clutch for disengagement at about -½ pedal travel. Clutch should not chatter, squeal, or slip.</p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Item 29, Transmission.</span> Gears should shift smoothly, -operate quietly, and not jump out of mesh during operation. If -transmission<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> jumps out of mesh in any gear, this indicates need of -shifter control adjustment.</p> - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Item 31, Engine and Controls.</span> Be alert for deficiency in -engine performance such as lack of usual power, misfiring, unusual -noise, stalling, indication of engine overheating, or unusual exhaust -smoke. Notice whether engine responds to controls satisfactorily, -whether controls appear to be in proper adjustment and are sufficiently -tight.</p> - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Item 32, Instruments.</span> Observe instruments for indication -of normal functioning of systems to which they apply.</p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) <i>Speedometer and Odometer.</i> Speedometer should indicate vehicle -speed without excessive noise or fluctuation. Odometer should record -trip and total mileage.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Oil Pressure Signal Light.</i> Red light should be off during -operation. If light goes on, stop vehicle and investigate for oil -pressure failure.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>Generator Signal Light.</i> Green light should be off above 20 -miles per hour. Battery discharge is indicated by green light being on.</p> - -<p>(6) <span class="smcap">Item 33, Steering.</span> Adjust steering damper to desired -steering friction. Observe vehicle steering for wander, shimmy, leading -to one side, or wheel hop.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Item 34, Running Gear.</span> Listen for any unusual noises from -wheels, axles, or suspension parts that might indicate looseness or -damage.</p> - -<p>(8) <span class="smcap">Item 35, Chassis.</span> Be alert for noises that might indicate -loose accessories, controls, attachments, or equipment.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_17">17. AT‐HALT SERVICE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> At‐halt Service may be regarded as minimum maintenance -procedures and should be performed under all tactical conditions, even -though more extensive maintenance services must be slighted or omitted -altogether.</p> - -<p><b>b. Procedures.</b> At‐halt Service consists of investigating -any deficiencies noted during operation, inspecting items listed below -according to the procedures following the items, and correcting any -deficiencies found. Deficiencies not corrected should be reported -promptly to the designated individual in authority.</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Item 38, Fuel and Oil.</span> Replenish fuel and oil as may be -required to reach next refilling point. CAUTION: <i>Left tank is for -fuel; right tank is for oil. Filler caps should not be interchanged, as -only fuel tank cap is vented.</i></p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Item 39, Temperatures.</span> Hand‐feel wheel hubs and brake -drums for overheating.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Item 40, Vents.</span> Make sure that crankcase breather outlet -and rear chain oil feed pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in -front and rear brake side covers are open and clean.</p> - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Item 42, Springs and Suspensions.</span> Look for broken springs -in fork.</p> - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Item 43, Steering.</span> Investigate any difficulty developed -during riding.</p> - -<p>(6) <span class="smcap">Item 44, Wheels and Mounting Screws.</span> Inspect wheels for -broken, bent, or loose spokes. Also, look for loose axle nuts or rear -wheel mounting screws. Inspect wheel rims for good condition.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Item 45, Tires.</span> Examine tires for low pressure or damage. -Remove foreign matter from tire treads; inspect for cuts.</p> - -<p>(8) <span class="smcap">Item 46, Leaks, General.</span> Inspect vehicle for indication of -fuel, oil, or battery leaks.</p> - -<p>(9) <span class="smcap">Item 47, Accessories and Chain.</span> Examine accessories for -loose connections, loose mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain -for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing -connecting link spring clips. Inspect chain for adequate lubrication.</p> - -<p>(10) <span class="smcap">Item 48, Air Cleaner.</span> Air cleaner must be secure, -with air passages in good condition and clean. When operating under -extremely dusty or sandy conditions, inspect air cleaner frequently and -service as required.</p> - -<p>(11) <span class="smcap">Item 49, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, -and Stands.</span> Inspect these items for looseness or damage.</p> - -<p>(12) <span class="smcap">Item 52, Appearance and Glass.</span> Clean windshield, rear -view mirror, and light lenses; inspect for good condition, secure -attachment, and broken glass.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_18">18. AFTER‐OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> After‐operation Service is particularly important, because at -this time the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies -that may have developed, and corrects those he is permitted to -handle. He should report promptly, to the designated individual in -authority, the results of his inspection. If this schedule is performed -thoroughly, the vehicle should be ready to roll again on a moment’s -notice. The Before‐operation Service, with a few exceptions, is -then necessary only to ascertain whether the vehicle is in the same -condition in which it was left upon completion of the After‐operation -Service. The After‐operation Service should never be entirely omitted, -even in extreme tactical situations, but may be reduced to the bare -fundamental services outlined for the At‐halt Service, if necessary.</p> - -<p><b>b. Procedures.</b> When performing the After‐operation -Service, the driver must remember and consider any irregularities -noticed during<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span> the day in the Before‐operation. During‐operation, and -At‐halt Services. The After‐operation Service consists of inspecting -and servicing the following items. Those items of the After‐operation -Services that are marked with an asterisk (*) require additional Weekly -services, the procedures for which are indicated in step (<i>b</i>) of each -applicable item.</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Item 54, Fuel and Oil.</span> Fill fuel and oil tanks; fill oil -tank within 1 inch of top; be sure to put oil in right tank and fuel -in left tank; do not interchange caps. CAUTION: <i>When operating under -extremely dusty conditions, drain engine oil tank and refill with fresh -oil as frequently as excessive contamination of the oil occurs</i>.</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Item 55, Engine Operation.</span> Test for satisfactory engine -idle without stalling. Accelerate and decelerate engine, noting any -tendency to miss or backfire, unusual noises, or vibration that may -indicate worn parts, loose mounting, incorrect fuel mixture, or -faulty ignition. Investigate any unsatisfactory engine operating -characteristics noted during operation. Learn to recognize noise caused -by loose primary (front) drive chain. Slack in excess of ½ inch total -up‐and‐down motion can cause excessive noise which sounds like engine -knock. Remove inspection cover for examination of chain.</p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Item 57, Horn.</span> If tactical situation permits, test horn.</p> - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Item 59, Lights.</span> If tactical situation permits, observe -whether blackout and service lights operate with switch in its -respective positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that -lights are secure, and lenses clean and not broken. Observe whether -both filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch on left -handle bar is moved to its respective positions.</p> - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Item 56, Instruments.</span> Before stopping engine, inspect -instruments to see that indicator lights are still out. Stop engine. -After 30 seconds, turn on switch to see that oil pressure and generator -signal lights turn on. CAUTION: <i>Be sure to turn off ignition switch -after this test</i>.</p> - -<p>(6) <span class="smcap">Item 58, Glass.</span> Clean rear view mirror, windshield, -instrument, and light glass. Examine for secure mounting and breakage.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Item 62, *Battery.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Inspect battery carrier for good condition and secure mounting. -Inspect electrolyte level (should be <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch above plates). Inspect -for any signs of leakage of electrolyte indicating battery has been -overfilled, poorly sealed, or damaged. CAUTION: <i>Do not add water -unless actually needed</i>.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Clean dirt from top of battery, remove battery caps, -bring electrolyte level to <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch above plates, using clean, -drinkable water. Clean terminals or posts if corroded; be sure felt -washers are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> on terminals and properly oiled; tighten terminal bolts -cautiously, if loose. Clean and paint battery carrier if corroded.</p> - -<p>(8) <span class="smcap">Item 63, *Accessories and Chain.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Inspect carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay -for loose connections, mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain -for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing -connecting link spring clips. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free -up‐and‐down movement (slack) midway between sprockets; maximum total -allowable deflection is 1 inch, minimum, ½ inch.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Tighten any accessory connections found loose. Wipe -excess dirt from rear chain. Check front chain for adjustment, and -inspect for proper lubrication.</p> - -<p>(9) <span class="smcap">Item 65, *Air Cleaner.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Examine oil cup for excessive dirt and correct oil level. If air -cleaner is excessively dirty, clean elements in dry‐cleaning solvent, -refill cup with fresh oil. Dip elements in oil in oil cup, replacing -elements and attaching oil cup immediately. If gaskets are damaged, -replace. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be necessary -to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. Inspect hose -for leaks.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Inspect air cleaner for proper oil level and -excessively dirty oil. Clean and service air cleaner, tighten mounting -and hose clamps. NOTE: <i>Early‐type, round air cleaner does not have -removable filter elements. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash -element.</i></p> - -<p>(10) <span class="smcap">Item 66, *Fuel Filter (Gasoline Strainer).</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Clean cap and screen of fuel filter.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Clean cap and screen of fuel filter, remove carburetor -bowl drain plug, and drain off water and dirt. Be sure to replace plug, -being careful to avoid cross threading.</p> - -<p>(11) <span class="smcap">Item 67, Engine Controls.</span> Examine throttle and spark -controls for damage to wires or for disconnected linkage. Observe for -lack of lubrication.</p> - -<p>(12) <span class="smcap">Item 68, *Tires.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Remove foreign matter such as nails, glass, or stones from tire -treads. Inspect tires for abnormal tread wear, cuts, or bruises: also -for presence and tightness of valve caps. Inflate tires to 18 pounds -front, 20 pounds rear, with tires cool.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Replace badly worn or otherwise unserviceable tires.</p> - -<p>(13) <span class="smcap">Item 69, *Springs and Suspension.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Inspect front fork for broken or sagged springs, loose bolts, -studs, and nuts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span></p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Tighten wheel axle nuts and rear brake sleeve nut. Also -tighten rear wheel mounting socket screws very securely.</p> - -<p>(14) <span class="smcap">Item 70, Steering.</span> Inspect steering head for proper -adjustment of bearings. Examine steering damper for correct adjustment.</p> - -<p>(15) <span class="smcap">Item 72, *Vents.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil -supply pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake -side covers are open and clean.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Clean crankcase breather outlet, rear chain oil supply -pipe, and grease drains in front and rear brake side covers.</p> - -<p>(16) <span class="smcap">Item 73, Leaks, General.</span> Look around mechanism and -beneath vehicle for indication of fuel, oil, and grease leaks. Examine -around brake drums for evidence of grease in drums or on linings. -Normally a few drops of oil may be expected to drip from skid plate.</p> - -<p>(17) <span class="smcap">Item 74, Gear Oil Levels.</span> Inspect transmission oil level -with vehicle standing on rear stand (not jiffy stand); refill, if -required, to level of filler plug opening with engine oil. CAUTION: <i>Do -not use gear oil</i>.</p> - -<p>(18) <span class="smcap">Item 76, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, -and Stands.</span> Examine these items for good condition and secure -mounting.</p> - -<p>(19) <span class="smcap">Item 82, *Tighten.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Inspect all frame and assembly nuts, bolts, and cap screws for -tightness.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Tighten all vehicle assembly or mounting nuts. Driver -is cautioned not to tamper with or tighten screws or nuts about the -circuit breaker, as doing so may disturb ignition timing.</p> - -<p>(20) <span class="smcap">Item 83, *Lubricate as Needed.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Lubricate all parts where inspection reveals need for -lubrication: wipe all dirt from fittings before applying lubricant. -Report any missing fittings.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> When vehicle has been driven a sufficient number -of miles so that it is due for a regularly scheduled lubrication, -lubricate according to Lubrication Guide in manual and current -lubrication directives. Refrain from overlubricating wheel bearings, -front brake side cover bushing, and front and rear brake operating -lever camshafts.</p> - -<p>(21) <span class="smcap">Item 84, *Clean Engine and Vehicle.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Clean dirt and trash from vehicle and remove excess grease.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Wash vehicle if possible. If not, wipe off thoroughly. -Do not rub lustreless paint enough to cause shine. If vehicle is washed -in a stream, care should be taken that water or dirt does not get -into bearings, breather valve, or brakes. CAUTION: <i>It is extremely -important<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> that high‐pressure streams or steam should not be directed -against wheel hubs, brakes, carburetor, air cleaner, or electrical -units</i>.</p> - -<p>(12) <span class="smcap">Item 64, *Electrical Wiring.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Inspect all ignition wiring to see that it is securely connected, -clean, and not damaged.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Inspect all wiring to see that it is securely connected -and supported, that insulation is not cracked or chafed, that loom, -shielding, and condensers are in good condition and securely attached. -Clean as required. Tighten any loose connections carefully. Radio -shielding or bonding defects, except cleaning or tightening, must be -referred to signal corps personnel.</p> - -<p>(23) <span class="smcap">Item 85, *Tools and Equipment.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) See that all tools and equipment assigned to vehicle are present, -in good condition, and properly stowed.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Weekly.</i> Check tools and equipment assigned to vehicle with -vehicle stowage list (par. <a href="#para_21">21</a>) to see that they are present. Inspect -tools for good condition and proper stowage. Report missing or -unserviceable items to designated authority.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_V"><span class="small sansserif">Section V</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">LUBRICATION</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc V"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Introduction</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_19">19</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Lubrication guide</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_20">20</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_19">19. INTRODUCTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Lubrication is an essential part of preventive maintenance, -determining to a great extent serviceability of parts and assemblies.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_20">20. LUBRICATION GUIDE (<a href="#fig_10">fig. 10</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. General.</b> Lubrication instructions for this materiel -are consolidated in a Lubrication Guide (<a href="#fig_10">fig. 10</a>). These specify the -points to be lubricated, the periods of lubrication, and the lubricant -to be used. Intervals indicated on the guide are for normal service. -For extreme conditions, high speed, heat, mud, snow, rough roads, dust, -etc., change engine oil and lubricate more frequently. In addition to -the items on the guide, brake, gear shifter, clutch control linkage, -and hinges must be lubricated at frequent intervals.</p> - -<p><b>b. Supplies.</b> In the field it may not be possible -to supply a complete assortment of lubricants called for by the -Lubrication Guide to meet the recommendations. It will be necessary -to make the best use of those available, subject to inspection by the -officer concerned, in consultation with responsible ordnance personnel.</p> - -<p><b>c. Lubrication Notes.</b> The following notes apply to the -Lubrication Guide (<a href="#fig_10">fig. 10</a>). All note references in the guide itself -are to the steps below having the corresponding number:</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Brake Fittings.</span> Exercise caution when lubricating brake -operating cams and front brake cover bushing, as excess grease working -out of these bearings is likely to get onto brake lining, reducing -brake efficiency. CAUTION: <i>When using air‐operated grease gun, make -sure not to overlubricate brake fittings</i>.</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Brake Hand Lever Oilcan Points.</span> Oil hand lever fittings -and “oiler” mounted on cable housing. Oil front brake control cable at -ends of control cable housing.</p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Generator Commutator End Bearing.</span> Hand‐pack with general -purpose grease, No. 2, at temperatures above zero. Below zero, use -lighter grease. This operation requires removal of generator end cover. -Bearing outer grease retainer must be loosened and swung aside for -access to bearing. If not convenient to grease bearing at specified -intervals, at least lubricate with a few drops of engine oil applied -to hole in outer grease retainer. Do not overlubricate. CAUTION: -<i>Generator regulating brush plate must not be shifted while<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a><br /><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> bearing -outer grease retainer is loose (par. <a href="#para_92">92</a>). Generator drive end bearing -requires no attention, since it is lubricated by oil circulating -through engine.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_10" id="fig_10"></a> -<a name="i_031" id="i_031"></a> -<img src="images/i_031.jpg" width="507" height="600" alt="" /> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="key"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc" colspan="7">—— <span class="normal sansserif">KEY</span> ——</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_left_yes" colspan="3"><span class="sansserif">INTERVALS</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_left_yes" colspan="3"><span class="sansserif">LUBRICANTS</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">¼</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">250 MILES</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">OE</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">OIL, ENGINE (CRANKCASE GRADE)</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">½</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">500 MILES</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">CG</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">GREASE, GENERAL PURPOSE</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">1</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">1000 MILES</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_left_yes"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">No. 1 (ABOVE +32°)</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">6</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">6000 MILES</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_left_yes"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">No. 1 OR No. 0 (+32° TO +10°)</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">* L</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">SPECIAL LUBRICATION</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_left_yes"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">No. 0 (BELOW +10°)</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdc bord_left_yes bord_right_yes bord_top_yes" colspan="3"><span class="sansserif u">CHECK DAILY</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">WB</span></td> -<td>—</td> -<td class="bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">GREASE, GENERAL PURPOSE (No. 2)</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdc bord_left_yes bord_right_yes" colspan="3"><span class="sansserif">Air Cleaner</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="bord_top_yes" colspan="3"> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdc bord_left_yes bord_right_yes bord_bot_yes" colspan="3"><span class="sansserif">Engine Oil Tank</span></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="capacities"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc" colspan="5"><span class="normal sansserif">TABLE OF CAPACITIES WITH RECOMMENDATIONS AT TEMPERATURES SHOWN</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">UNIT</span></td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">CAPACITY</span></td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">ABOVE +32°</span></td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">+32° TO +10°</span></td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">BELOW +10°</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_left_yes"><span class="sansserif">OIL TANK</span></td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif">1 GALLON</span></td> -<td class="bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif"> OE<br /> S.A.E. 50</span></td> -<td class="bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif"> OE<br /> S.A.E. 30</span></td> -<td class="bord_top_yes bord_right_yes"><span class="sansserif"> OE<br /> S.A.E. 10</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_left_yes bord_bot_yes"><span class="sansserif">TRANSMISSION</span></td> -<td class="tdc bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_bot_yes"><span class="sansserif">¾ pint</span></td> -<td class="bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_bot_yes"><span class="sansserif"> OE<br /> S.A.E. 50</span></td> -<td class="bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_bot_yes"><span class="sansserif"> OE<br /> S.A.E. 30</span></td> -<td class="bord_top_yes bord_right_yes bord_bot_yes"><span class="sansserif"> OE<br /> S.A.E. 10</span></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310207<br /> -<i>Figure 10</i>—<i>Lubrication Guide</i></p></div> - - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Spark and Throttle Control Grips.</span> These grips require -disassembly. Twice a year, or whenever grips do not turn freely, -indicating need of lubrication, remove grips, clean parts, apply -grease, and reassemble (par. <a href="#para_101">101</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Air Cleaner.</span> Examine oil cup daily for excessive dirt and -correct oil level. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be -necessary to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. -Refill oil cup to indicated level with engine oil. Drain, clean, and -refill oil cup every 250 miles, depending upon operating conditions. -Every 1,000 miles (oftener if necessary), remove air cleaner filter -units, wash in dry‐cleaning solvent, lubricate, and reassemble (par. -<a href="#para_76">76</a>). NOTE: <i>Early type round cleaner did not have removable filter -element. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash element.</i></p> - -<p>(6) <span class="smcap">Wheel Bearings.</span> When wheel hubs are lubricated at regular -500‐mile interval, <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> ounce of grease with each greasing is sufficient. -This amounts to about 15 shots of the standard 1‐pound air gun, or four -strokes with a 1‐pound, hand‐operated gun. If vehicle has been operated -in water, wheel hubs submerged, apply hub greasing service immediately -afterward (or soon as situation permits). Do not overlubricate wheel -hub bearings, as excess grease may work into brake linings, reducing -brake efficiency. When using air‐operated grease gun, it is easy to -overlubricate wheel hub bearings.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Steering Head Bearings.</span> Every 50,000 miles, repack upper -and lower bearings, or whenever there is occasion to remove rigid fork -for repair or replacement (par. <a href="#para_98">98</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) <span class="smcap">Tank, Engine Oil.</span> Oil tank is located on right side of -motorcycle. Empty tank holds 1 U. S. gallon. Check daily and add engine -oil as necessary to refill tank within 1 inch of top. Oil level gage -rod (dip stick) is located directly below tank cap. When oil level is -down to “REFILL” mark on gage rod, 2 U. S. quarts may be added. Drain -oil tank every 1,000 miles and refill with fresh engine oil. Drain plug -located on underside of tank in forward position. In extremely dusty -service, and in winter weather, change oil oftener.</p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) <i>Winter Caution.</i> Water is a by‐product of combustion in any -internal combustion engine. In a condensed state, the water vapor -formed would equal approximately the quantity of gasoline burned. Some -of this water vapor escapes past the rings into the crankcase. When -starting and warming up in cold weather, considerable vapor getting -into crankcase condenses to water before crankcase is hot enough -to exhaust the vapor, without inside condensation, through outside -breather. If engine is driven enough to get crankcase thoroughly warmed -up frequently, most of this water is again vaporized<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> and blown out -through outside breather. However, a moderately driven engine, making -only short runs now and then, and seldom thoroughly warmed up, is -likely to accumulate an increasing amount of water in oil tank. This -water will, in freezing weather, become slush or ice and, if allowed -to accumulate too long, may block oil lines with resulting damage to -engine. Also, water mixed with oil for some time, forms a heavy sludge -of considerable acid content that is very harmful to bearings and -other internal engine parts. To sum it up briefly, an engine that is -used only for short runs during freezing weather requires frequent oil -changes along with thorough flushing of tank to remove any accumulated -sludge.</p> - -<p>(9) <span class="smcap">Transmission Filler Opening.</span> Check oil level in -transmission case every 250 miles and add engine oil as necessary -to bring level up to filler opening. If motorcycle is run unusually -long distances, inspect more frequently. Motorcycle must be on rear -stand in straight upright position when checking oil level or filling -transmission case. Use same grade of oil used in engine, summer, and -winter. If gear shifting difficulty is caused by oil congealing in -extremely cold weather, thin oil with small amount of kerosene or -dry‐cleaning solvent. Every 1,000 miles, drain and refill transmission -to level of transmission filler plug opening with specified grade of -engine oil. Transmission holds ¾ pint of oil. To drain transmission -case remove filler plug and lay motorcycle on right side. CAUTION: <i>Do -not leave motorcycle on side longer than two minutes</i>.</p> - -<p id="para_20c_10">(10) <span class="smcap">Drive Chains.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Front and rear drive chains are automatically supplied with -lubrication by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may -need occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied -operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (or more often if operating -conditions are extremely severe) inspect front primary drive chain for -adequate lubrication (<a href="#fig_36">fig. 36</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) At every 1,000‐mile period rear drive chain should have -additional lubrication as follows: Remove chain, wash thoroughly in -dry‐cleaning solvent and hang it up to dry. Then soak chain in SAE 10 -engine oil for a short period of time to allow oil to penetrate into -all chain bearings. Drain chain and wipe off excess oil. Install rear -chain (par. <a href="#para_63">63</a>). (This attention is not required by front chain.) -Readjustment of chain oilers must be made only by organization mechanic -(par. <a href="#para_61">61</a>). CAUTION: <i>Inspect frequently and make sure that rear chain -oiler supply pipe is clear, not bent or damaged</i>.</p> - -<p><b>d. Before Applying Lubricant.</b> Always wipe dirt from the -lubrication fittings or plugs so that dirt will not enter with the -lubricant. Lubricate all chassis points after washing vehicle or after -vehicle has been operated in streams or extremely muddy or slushy -roads. CAUTION: <i>It is extremely important that high‐pressure cleaning -streams<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> or steam should not be directed against ends of wheel -hubs, brake side cover bearings, air cleaner, handle bar grips, or -electrical system. To do so will seriously affect correct lubrication -and functioning of these parts.</i></p> - -<p><b>e. Oilcan Points.</b> All brake, transmission, and clutch -control points not fitted with grease connections should be lubricated -with engine oil. Front brake control cable, spark, and throttle -control wires must be oiled at the ends of their respective housings, -especially after washing vehicle, or after operating it in wet weather. -Keep battery terminal felt washers saturated with engine oil to prevent -corrosion of connections.</p> - -<p><b>f. Warning Light.</b> Action of the engine oil feed pump -is indicated by red signal light in instrument panel. Rider must be -thoroughly familiar with operating characteristics of this signal -light, to judge condition of engine oil circulating system (par. <a href="#para_7f">7 f</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_VI"><span class="small sansserif">Section VI</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT STOWAGE ON THE VEHICLE</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc VI"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Vehicle tools</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_21">21</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Vehicle equipment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_22">22</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Vehicle spare parts</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_23">23</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_11" id="fig_11"></a> -<img src="images/i_035.jpg" width="600" height="287" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310208<br /> -<i>Figure 11—Vehicle Tools</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_21">21. VEHICLE TOOLS (<a href="#fig_11">fig. 11</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Kits.</b> Included in the tool kit assembly are the -following:</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="tool kit"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc"><span class="smallest sansserif">Legend<br />Letter for<br /><a href="#fig_11">Fig. 11</a></span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Tool</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Number Carried</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Mfr’s Number</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Federal Stock Number</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Where Carried</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> A</td> -<td><p class="indent">Tool roll</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11819–44</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In saddle bag</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> B</td> -<td><p class="indent">Irons, tire</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">2</td> -<td class="vertb">11551–X</td> -<td class="vertb">41–I–773–75</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td></tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*C</td> -<td><p class="indent">Handle, chain tool</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11817–40</td> -<td class="vertb">41–H–1510–400</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> D</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–in. by ¾–in.</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11804–44C</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> E</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, ½–in. by <sup>9</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in.</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11804–44B</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> F</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, <sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in. by ½–in.</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11804–44A</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> G</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in. by <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–in.</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11804–44</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> H</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, ⅜–in. by <sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in. (valve tappet)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11905–X</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> I</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, adjustable</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11813–44</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*J</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, ¾–in. by 1¾–in. (rear axle nut and trans.)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11814–35</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–1989–850</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> K</td> -<td><p class="indent">Gage, tire</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11562–43</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*L</td> -<td><p class="indent">Tool, chain repair</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">12039–38</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*M</td> -<td><p class="indent">Washers, 0.002–in. thick (chain oiler adj.)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">4</td> -<td class="tdr vertb">674–32 </td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*N</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, <sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in. by 1⅜–in. (valve cover)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11806–31</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3617</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*O</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, <sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in. by 1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–in. (use with spark plug socket)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11929–39</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*P</td> -<td><p class="indent">Pliers, adjustable</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11812–44</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*Q</td> -<td><p class="indent">Screwdriver</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11811–X</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt"> R</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, <sup>9</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–in. socket (cyl. head bolt)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">12047–30A</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W01525</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*S</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, wheel mounting</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11815–35</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3825–400</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">*T</td> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, socket (spark plug; use with O)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11805–40</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3332</td> -<td class="vertb">In tool roll</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Pump, tire</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11553–41M</td> -<td class="vertb">8–P–4900</td> -<td class="vertb">On frame, left side</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Grease gun (in case)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb">11661–38A</td> -<td class="vertb"><span class="add2em">——</span></td> -<td class="vertb">In saddle bag</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<p>*EXCEPTION: <i>Earlier models furnished with smaller tool roll and kit -contain the items marked by asterisk.</i></p> - - -<h4 id="para_22">22. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT (figs. <a href="#fig_12">12</a> and <a href="#fig_13">13</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Attached to Vehicle.</b></p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="attached"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc"><span class="smallest sansserif">Item</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Number Carried</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Where Carried</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Saddlebags</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">2</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">On luggage carrier</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Mirror, rear view</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">On left handle bar</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Box, submachine gun ammunition</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">Front fender, left side</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Bracket, submachine gun carrier</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">Front fender, right side</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Guard, front safety</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">Attached to frame</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Guard, rear safety</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">Attached to frame</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Windshield, cpt</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">On handle bar</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Leg shields, cpt (right and left)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">2</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">Attached to frame</p></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_12" id="fig_12"></a> -<img src="images/i_037.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RA PD 310216<br /> -<i>Figure 12—Vehicle Equipment, Left Side</i></p></div> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_13" id="fig_13"></a> -<img src="images/i_037bot.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310217<br /> -<i>Figure 13—Vehicle Equipment, Right Side</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_14" id="fig_14"></a> -<img src="images/i_038.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310209<br /> -<i>Figure 14—Vehicle Spare Parts</i></p></div> - - -<h4 id="para_23">23. VEHICLE SPARE PARTS (<a href="#fig_14">fig. 14</a>).</h4> - -<p><a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">3</a><b>a. Spare Parts.</b></p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="spare parts"> -<tr> -<th> </th> -<th class="tdc"><span class="smallest sansserif">Item</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Number Carried</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Where Carried</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">A</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Roll, parts kit</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In saddlebag</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">H</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Plug, spark (and gasket)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">F</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Link, rear chain repair</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">G</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Link, front chain repair</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">K</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Lamp‐unit, tail blackout</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">J</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Lamp‐unit, stop blackout</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">L</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Lamp‐unit, tail and stop</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">B</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Lamp bulk kit, head lamps, 5 bulbs</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">C</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Kit, tire repair</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">I</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Tape, friction</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">D</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Caps, tire valve (5 in box)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt">E</td> -<td class="vertt"><p class="indent">Cores, tire valve (5 in box)</p></td> -<td class="vertb tdc">1</td> -<td class="vertb"><p class="indent">In kit roll</p></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">3</span></a> EXCEPTION: <i>No spare parts kit supplied with earlier -models. Rear chain repair link only spare part furnished.</i></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="PART_TWO_VEHICLE_MAINTENANCE_INSTRUCTIONS">PART TWO—VEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS</h2> -</div> - -<h3 id="Section_VII"><span class="small sansserif">Section VII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">MAINTENANCE ALLOCATION</span></h3> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc VII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Scope</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_24">24</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Allocation of maintenance</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_25">25</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_24">24. SCOPE.</h4> - -<p class="p1" id="para_24a"><b>a.</b> The scope of maintenance and repair by the crew and other -units of the using arms is determined by the availability of suitable -tools, availability of necessary parts, capabilities of the mechanics, -time available, and the tactical situation. All of these are variable -and no exact system of procedure can be prescribed.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_25">25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Indicated below are the maintenance duties for which tools -and parts have been provided for the using arm and maintenance -personnel. Replacements and repairs which are the responsibility of -ordnance maintenance personnel may be performed by using arm personnel -when circumstances permit, within the discretion of the commander -concerned. Echelons and words as used in this list of maintenance -allocations are defined as follows:</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="6" summary="allocation of maintenance"> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">First and Second Echelon</span>:<br />Table III<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt"> Operating organization driver, operator -or crew, companies and detachments, -battalions, squadrons, regiments, and -separate companies and detachments -(first and second echelons, respectively).</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Third Echelon</span>:<br />Table III<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">Technical light and medium maintenance units, including post and port shops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Fourth Echelon</span>:<br />Table III<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">Technical heavy maintenance and field depot units including -designated post and service command shops.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Fifth Echelon</span>:<br />Table III<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">Technical base units.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Service</span>:<br />(Including preventive maintenance) par. 24 a -(2) and (3) in part AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">Checking and replenishing fuel, oil, grease, water and antifreeze, -air, and battery liquid; checking and tightening nuts and bolts; cleaning.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Service</span>:<br />(Including preventive maintenance) par. 24 a -(2) and (3) in part AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">Checking and replenishing fuel, oil, grease, water and antifreeze, -air, and battery liquid; checking and tightening nuts and bolts; cleaning.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span><span class="smcap">Replace</span>:<br />Par. 24 a (5)<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">To remove an unserviceable part, assembly, or subassembly from a vehicle -and replace it with a serviceable one.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Repair</span>:<br />Par. 24 a (6) in part<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">To restore to a serviceable condition, -such parts, assemblies or subassemblies -as can be accomplished without completely -disassembling the assembly or -subassembly, and where heavy riveting, -or precision machining, fitting, balancing, -or alining is not required.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Rebuild</span>:<br />Par. 24 a (6)<br />AR 850–15</td> -<td class="vertt">Consists of stripping and completely -reconditioning and replacing in serviceable -condition any vehicle or unserviceable -part, subassembly, or assembly of -the vehicle, including welding, riveting, -machining, fitting, alining, balancing, -assembling, and testing.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="vertt"><span class="smcap">Reclamation</span>:<br /> -AR 850–15 Par. 4 (c) in part CIR. 75, dated 16 March ’43</td> -<td class="vertt">Salvage of serviceable or economically -repairable units and parts removed from -vehicles, and their return to stock. This -includes the process which recovers -and/or reclaims unusable articles or -component parts thereof and places them in a serviceable condition.</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<p class="hangingindent3p8">NOTES: (1) Operations allocated will normally be performed in the -echelon indicated by X.<br /> -<br /> -(2) Operations allocated to the third echelon as indicated by E may -be performed by these units in emergencies only.<br /> -<br /> -(3) Operations allocated to the fourth echelon by E are normally -fifth echelon operations. They will not be performed by the fourth -echelon, unless the unit is expressly authorized to do so by the -chief of the service concerned.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="allocation of maintenance"> -<tr> -<th> </th> -<th class="tdc" colspan="4"><span class="normal">ECHELONS</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">CLUTCH</td> -<td><span class="smallest sansserif">2nd</span></td> -<td><span class="smallest sansserif">3rd</span></td> -<td><span class="smallest sansserif">4th</span></td> -<td><span class="smallest sansserif">5th</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bearings, clutch release—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Clutch—replace and/or repair (reline)</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Hub, clutch—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Hub, clutch—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Sprocket assembly, clutch—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Sprocket assembly, clutch—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">CONTROLS AND LINKAGE</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Controls and linkage—service and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Controls and linkage—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span>ELECTRICAL GROUP</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Battery—service (recharge) and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Battery—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Battery—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cables, battery—replace and/or repair</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Coil, ignition—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Head, speedometer—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Head, speedometer—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Head, speedometer—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Horn assembly—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Horn assembly—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td></tr> -<tr> -<td>Light assemblies—service and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Light assemblies—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Panel, instrument—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Panel, instrument—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Switch assemblies—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Switch assemblies—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Wiring—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">ENGINE</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">(V–45″–Twin Engine)</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bearings, main—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bearings, connecting rod—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Breaker assembly, circuit—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Breaker assembly, circuit—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Breaker assembly, circuit—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cleaner, air—service and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cleaner, air—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cleaner, air—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cylinder assembly—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cylinder assembly—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cylinder assembly—rebuild (recondition)</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Condenser—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Engine assembly—replace</td> -<td>*<a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">4</a></td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> -Engine assembly—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Engine assembly—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Gasket, cylinder head—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Gears, timing—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Generator assembly—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Generator assembly—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Generator assembly—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Head, cylinder—replace and/or repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Lines and connections—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Lines and connections—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pistons, rings and pins assembly—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Plug, spark—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Points, circuit breaker—service and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, feed—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, feed—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, feed—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, oil—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, oil—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, oil—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, oil scavenger—replace and/or repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Pump assembly, oil scavenger—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Rod, connecting—replace and/or rebuild (recondition)</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Sprocket, engine—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Strained gasoline—replace and/or repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Valves—service</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">EXHAUST GROUP</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Muffler and exhaust pipe—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Muffler and exhaust pipe—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">MISCELLANEOUS</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bars, safety—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bars, safety—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Boxes, ammunition, battery and tool—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Boxes, ammunition, battery and tool—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carriers, luggage and scabbard—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carriers, luggage and scabbard—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Frame—replace and/or rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Guards, mud—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span>Guards, mud—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Plate, skid—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Plate, skid—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Saddle—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Saddle—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Saddle—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Springs, saddle post—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tank, fuel—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tank, fuel—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tank, oil—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tank, oil—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">SUSPENSION (FRONT)</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bars, handle—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bars, handle—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Damper, steering—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Drum, brake—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fork, front assembly—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fork, front assembly—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fork, front assembly—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fork, spring—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fork, spring—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fork, spring—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Plate, rocker—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Plate, rocker—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Shoe assembly, brake—service and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Shoe assembly, brake—repair (reline)</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Springs, cushion and rebound—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">SUSPENSION (REAR)</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Chains, all—replace and/or repair</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Drum, brake, rear—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Guards, chains—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Guards, chains—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Shoe assemblies, brake—service and/or replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Shoe assemblies, brake—repair (reline)</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Sprocket, rear—replace</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Wheels—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Wheels—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Wheels—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> -TIRES</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Casings and tubes—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Casings—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tubes, inner—repair</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">TRANSMISSION</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Spring, kick starter—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Sprocket, transmission countershaft—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Starter, kick—replace</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Starter, kick—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -Transmission—replace</td> -<td>*<a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">4</a></td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Transmission—repair</td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Transmission—rebuild</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>E</td> -<td>X</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="5"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc">VEHICLE ASSEMBLY</td> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Motorcycle—service</td> -<td>X</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Motorcycle—rebuild (with serviceable unit -assemblies)</td> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td>X</td> -<td>E</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><span class="label">4</span> The second echelon is authorized to remove and reinstall -items marked by an asterisk. However, when it is necessary to replace -an item marked by an asterisk with a new or rebuilt part, subassembly -or unit assembly, the assembly marked by an asterisk may be removed -from the vehicle by the second echelon <i>only after authority has been -obtained from a higher echelon of maintenance</i>.</p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_VIII"><span class="small sansserif">Section VIII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc VIII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Second echelon preventive maintenance services</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_26">26</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_26">26. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are -a preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the -responsibility of commanders of operating organizations.</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Frequency.</span> The frequencies of the preventive maintenance -services outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for -normal operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions -such as extreme temperatures, and dusty or sandy terrain, it may be -necessary to perform certain maintenance services more frequently.</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">First Echelon Participation.</span> The drivers should accompany -their vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second echelon -preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily the driver -should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive maintenance -service in a reasonably clean condition; that is, it should be dry, -and not caked with mud or grease to such an extent that inspection and -servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the vehicle should not -be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain types of defects, -such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or assemblies are -more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty.</p> - -<p>(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general -procedures in paragraph (<a href="#general_procedures">4</a>) or the specific procedures in paragraph (<a href="#specific_procedures">5</a>) -which follow, are required for the correct performance of a preventive -maintenance service, or for correction of a deficiency, other sections -of the vehicle operator’s manual pertaining to the item involved, or a -designated individual in authority, should be consulted.</p> - -<p id="general_procedures">(4) <span class="smcap">General Procedures.</span> These general procedures are basic -instructions which are to be followed when performing the services -on the items listed in the specific procedures. The second echelon -personnel must be thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they -will apply them automatically.</p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct -deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean, -correctly installed, properly lubricated, and adjusted.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the -lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the -seal.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) The general inspection of each item applies also to any -supporting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> -whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, -or excessively worn. The mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the -following explanations of these terms:</p> - -<p><i>1.</i> The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual -inspection to determine whether or not the unit is damaged beyond safe -or serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further -by the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken -or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or -cut.</p> - -<p><i>2.</i> The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” -is usually an external visual inspection to see whether or not it is in -its normal assembled position in the vehicle.</p> - -<p><i>3.</i> The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually -an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for -looseness; such an inspection should include any brackets, lock -washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.</p> - -<p><i>4.</i> “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn, close to or -beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not -replaced before the next scheduled inspection.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item -numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the services -are to be performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are to -receive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number in -one or both columns opposite a <i>Tighten</i> procedure, means that the -actual tightening of the object must be performed. The special services -include:</p> - -<p><i>1. Adjust.</i> Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the -pertinent section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins, -or other current directives.</p> - -<p><i>2. Clean.</i> Clean units of the vehicle with dry‐cleaning solvent to -remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the -parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean dry‐cleaning solvent, and dry -them thoroughly. Take care to keep the parts clean until reassembled, -and be certain to keep dry‐cleaning solvent away from rubber or other -material which it will damage. Clean the protective grease coating from -new parts, since this material is not a good lubricant.</p> - -<p><i>3. Special lubrication.</i> This applies both to lubrication operations -that do not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide, and to items -that do appear on such guides, but should be performed in connection -with the maintenance operations, if parts have to be disassembled for -inspection or service.</p> - -<p><i>4. Serve.</i> This usually consists of performing special operations, -such as replenishing battery water, and draining and refilling units -with oil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span></p> - -<p><i>5. Tighten.</i> All tightening operations should be performed with -sufficient wrench‐torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the -nut according to good mechanical practice. Use torque‐indicating -wrench where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads, -or cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include -the correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins -provided to secure the tightening.</p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete -preventive maintenance procedures at one time, these can sometimes be -handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within the -task if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac areas must -be utilized, if necessary, to assure that maintenance operations are -completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items with special -services in the columns should be given first consideration.</p> - -<p>(<i>f</i>) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that follow -are identical with those outlined on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which -is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles. -Certain items on the work sheet that do not apply to this vehicle -are not included in the procedures in this manual. In general, the -numerical sequence of items on the work sheet is followed in the manual -procedures, but in some instances there is deviation for conservation -of the mechanic’s time and effort.</p> - -<p id="specific_procedures">(5) <span class="smcap">Specific Procedures.</span> The procedures for performing each -item in the 1,000‐mile maintenance procedures are described in the -following chart. Each page of the chart has a column at its left edge -corresponding to the 1,000‐mile maintenance.</p> - -<p class="center">ROAD TEST</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="road test"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc vertt"><span class="smallest sansserif">1000 Mile Maintenance</span></th> -<th><span class="normal">NOTE: If tactical situation does not permit a full road test, perform -items 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, and 14, which require slight or no -movement of the vehicle. When a road test is possible, it should be for -preferably 5, and not over 10 miles.</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">1</td> -<td><b>Before‐operation Inspection.</b> Perform Before‐operation -Service listed on W.D. Form No. 418. “Driver’s Trip Ticket and -Preventive Maintenance Service Record” (described in par. 15), to -determine if vehicle is in a satisfactory condition to make the -road test safely.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">2</td> -<td><b>Ease of Starting.</b> Start engine and observe action of -starter. Note if engine responds readily.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">3</td> -<td><b>Oil Circulation.</b> Oil circulation is normally indicated by -oil signal light (red light) in instrument panel being out. When -red light is on, oil is not circulating. Observe for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> excess smoke -in exhaust. CAUTION: <i>If red light fails to go out after engine -has been started, stop engine at once. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_30">30</a> for -possible causes.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">4</td> -<td><b>Instruments.</b> Observe instruments for proper or normal -indication and functioning of system to which they apply.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><span class="smcap">Speedometer and Odometer.</span> Speedometer must indicate -vehicle speed without excessive noise or fluctuation; odometer must -record trip and total mileage. <span class="smcap"> Oil Pressure Signal Light.</span> -Note whether oil signal light (red light) indicates correctly. -After ignition switch is turned on, and before starting engine, the -red light should go on, indicating no oil circulation. When engine -is started, light should go out.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><span class="smcap">Generator Signal Light.</span> With switch on, and before -starting engine, the green signal light should go on, indicating -discharge of battery. After starting engine, increase engine -speed to a medium fast idle; green signal light should then go -out, indicating generator is charging battery. CAUTION: <i>Continue -observation of signal lights during road test, and if lights should -fail to operate as indicated above, stop engine, investigate cause, -and correct or report trouble to proper authority.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">5</td> -<td><b>Brake Operation.</b> Test foot brake for safe stop within -reasonable distance. Note squeaks or chatter that might indicate -wet, oily, dirty, or loose lining, damaged drum, or improper -adjustment. Apply hand‐operated front brake only in conjunction -with rear brake and observe whether it operates effectively in -assisting to make a quicker stop.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">6</td> -<td><b>Clutch Operation.</b> Before moving vehicle, make sure that -clutch pedal has satisfactory free travel before it begins to -disengage clutch; that it releases clutch completely before -reaching end of travel; and that there are no unusual noises in -clutch‐release mechanism. When starting vehicle, observe whether -clutch grabs, chatters, or slips when fully engaged.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">7</td> -<td><b>Gearshift.</b> Shift through entire gear range of transmission -and observe whether mechanism operates freely without clashing or -jumping out of gear. Note any unusual vibration that might indicate -loose engine or transmission mountings.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">8</td> -<td><b>Unusual Noises.</b> During entire road test, listen for unusual -noises that might indicate worn, loose, damaged, or insufficiently -lubricated parts in the entire motorcycle, particularly in engine -and accessories, or in the power train.<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> -CAUTION: <i>Loose primary (front) drive chain, with slack in excess -of ½ inch total up‐and‐down motion, can cause excessive noise which -sounds like engine knock. Remove inspection cover for examination -of chain.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">9</td> -<td><b>Steering.</b> Observe steering mechanism for indication of -looseness or excessive binding through full turning range. With -hands resting lightly on handle bars and vehicle in vertical -position, observe whether there is any tendency to pull to one -side when operating at a reasonable speed. Note any indication of -steering instability at higher speeds.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">10</td> -<td><b>Balance.</b> If vehicle does not balance properly in operation, -inspect for misalinement of rear wheel.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">11</td> -<td><b>Speedometer and Odometer.</b> Inspect speedometer for proper -operation, excessive fluctuation, or unusual noise. Observe -odometer for correct recording of trip and total mileage.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">12</td> -<td><b>Throttle and Spark Controls.</b> Set throttle stop screw and low -speed needle adjustment so that engine will operate smoothly and -will not stall at idling speed. With vehicle running at a speed of -30 miles per hour, or faster, in high gear, turn throttle control -grip to “OPEN” and “CLOSED” positions and note whether engine -responds instantly to throttle changes. Turn spark control grip and -note whether it fully advances and retards ignition timer.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">13</td> -<td><b>Power and Operation.</b> Observe engine for normal pulling -power, and good operating characteristics in each speed, from first -to high gear. Also observe whether engine misses, stalls, knocks -excessively, or makes any other unusual noise.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">14</td> -<td><b>Carburetor Adjustment.</b> No carburetor adjustment, other -than idle adjustment as performed in item 12, is required on this -vehicle.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">15</td> -<td><b>Brake Drum and Hub Temperature.</b> Immediately after completing -road test, feel front and rear brake drums and wheel hubs for -overheating.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">16</td> -<td><b>Power Train Temperatures.</b> Feel transmission for overheating.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class="normal">MAINTENANCE OPERATION</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">17</td> -<td><b>Compression Test.</b> With throttle wide‐open, test compression -with starter. If engine lacks compression, inspect for leaks.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">18</td> -<td><b>Transmission.</b> Inspect transmission for good condition, -secure mounting, and leaks. Inspect oil level. Drain and refill<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> -transmission to level of transmission filler plug opening with -specified grade of engine oil. CAUTION: <i>Always drain transmission -immediately after it has been warmed and agitated by operation of -engine. Refill as soon as draining is completed to avoid hazard -of operating without lubricant. Tighten all mounting and assembly -bolts securely.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">20</td> -<td><b>Engine Oil.</b> Inspect oil tank for oil level: drain and refill -tank. CAUTION: <i>Fill to within 1 inch of filler opening and filler -cap with specified weight of oil. Always drain immediately after -engine operation and refill as soon as draining is completed, to -avoid hazard of operating without lubricant.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">21</td> -<td><b>Battery and Carrier.</b> Clean top of battery. See that battery -and carrier are in good condition, and that carrier is securely -mounted. Remove cell caps: make sure that vents are open. Test -specific gravity with hydrometer and record readings on work sheet, -W.D. AGO Form No. 463. Readings below 1.225 indicate need for -recharge, or battery failure. Variation between cells of more then -0.025 must be reported. Read and record voltage of battery (6‐volt -reading is normal). Bring electrolyte to <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch above tops of -plates, using clean, drinkable water. If excessive looseness of -battery in case is noted, check for presence of rubber pad in -bottom of case, and make sure rubber pad is installed on top of -battery, when battery service is completed.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">22</td> -<td><b>Battery Wires and Terminals.</b> Inspect battery for good -condition and secure connections. Look for worn spots in wire -insulation. Oil the felt washers on battery terminals.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">23</td> -<td><b>Electrical Wiring.</b> Inspect all electric wiring to see that it -is in good condition, securely attached, and connected. Look for worn -spots in insulation.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">24</td> -<td><b>Generator Drive and Mounting, and Relay.</b> Inspect generator -for secure mounting. After removing left footboard assembly, -remove generator and cover. Examine commutator for cleanliness, -good condition, or excessive wear. If commutator is dirty, it must -be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. Blow out with compressed air. -If commutator is in bad condition or excessively worn, replace -generator. Remove relay cover, being careful to avoid damage to -mechanism, and inspect for cleanliness. Blow out with air if wet or -dirty. CAUTION: <i>Do not attempt to adjust relay, or to clean it in -any other manner.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">25</td> -<td><b>Timer</b> (<b>Circuit Breaker</b>). Clean and remove timer -cover. See that wiring leads are securely connected and that inside -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span>of the timer is clean. Inspect breaker points to see that they -are clean, well‐lined, engaging squarely, and are not excessively -pitted, burned, or worn. See that condenser mounting screw is -tight. Breaker lever should be free on its pivot and well insulated -from the pivot pin. Determine if breaker arm spring exerts normal -force against arm. Examine camshaft by hand‐feel to see whether -it is excessively worn in its bushings; if camshaft bushings are -worn excessively, install new timer. If points are slightly burned -or pitted, dress them with a fine file. If breaker points are -unserviceable, install a new set, taking care to aline them and -to adjust gap to 0.022 inch. Apply one drop of oil to breaker arm -pivot pin. Use clean cloth to wipe cam and then coat with a very -light film of light grease. CAUTION: <i>Be careful to avoid getting -oil or grease on breaker points.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">26</td> -<td><b>Spark Plugs.</b> Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast -cleaner, and inspect for cracked insulators: inspect electrodes -for good condition and adjust gap to 0.025 to 0.030 inch; replace -faulty plugs. Be sure to install new gasket with new plug. Inspect -radio suppressors on plug cables for good condition and secure -attachment.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">27</td> -<td><b>Ignition and Light Switch.</b> Make sure that the switch is in -good condition and operating properly in all positions.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">28</td> -<td><b>Lights, Service and Blackout.</b> See that all lights are clean, -in good condition, properly aimed, and securely mounted. Tactical -situation permitting, turn switch to each of its positions and -observe whether service and blackout lights operate properly, -and whether they go out when switched off. Operate dimmer switch -on left handle bar to see whether it depresses beam of service -headlight. Apply foot brake for check of both blackout and service -stop light operation. Inspect lenses for breakage, and headlight -reflector for discoloration. Clean all lenses.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">29</td> -<td><b>Horn.</b> Tactical situation permitting, sound horn to test for -normal signal. Examine horn for good condition, secure mounting, -and tight wiring connections.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">30</td> -<td><b>Cylinder Heads.</b> If cylinder head gaskets show signs of -leakage, tighten head bolts: if leakage persists, new gaskets -should be installed. A head bolt wrench (Fed‐Stock No. 41–W–1525) -is available with which head bolts can be tightened without -removing tanks for wrench clearance. If tanks are removed to -permit taking off heads and installing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> new gaskets, bolts should -then be tightened evenly with a torque wrench to a tension of 60 -foot‐pounds minimum, or 65 foot‐pounds maximum, when engine is cold.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">31</td> -<td><b>Cylinder Hold‐down Nuts.</b> If these nuts are loose, or there -is excessive oil leakage around cylinder bases, tighten nuts evenly -when engine is cold. If excessive leakage persists, new gaskets -should be installed. CAUTION: <i>If cylinder base nuts are loose, -perform item 36 before starting engine.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">32</td> -<td><b>Engine Mountings.</b> Inspect top engine mounting bracket and -bolt for good condition and security. CAUTION: <i>Tight seating of -the engine bracket mounting bolt is a necessity for effective radio -bonding. Inspect four lower engine mounting bolts for signs of -looseness. Tighten as required.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">33</td> -<td><b>Engine Crankcase.</b> Examine engine crankcase for good -condition and for leaks. Make sure timing gear cover screws, and -oil feed and scavenger pump nuts, are tight.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">34</td> -<td><b>Intake Manifold.</b> Examine manifold for good condition and -secure mounting. Make sure manifold nuts are tight.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">35</td> -<td><b>Muffler and Exhaust Pipes.</b> Inspect muffler and exhaust pipes -for good condition, secure mounting, and for leaks. Be sure tail -pipe opening is not restricted.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">36</td> -<td><b>Valve Mechanism.</b> When engine is cold, adjust valve tappet -clearance to 0.004–inch minimum, 0.005–inch maximum on intake -valve; 0.006–inch minimum, 0.007–inch maximum on exhaust valve. See -that valve springs are in good condition and properly secured; that -valve tappet adjusting screws and lock nuts are in good condition; -and that valve covers are in good condition, secure, and not -leaking oil.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">37</td> -<td><b>Starter.</b> Examine pedal, crank, and return spring for good -condition, correct assembly, and secure mounting. Starter should -operate without binding, and return spring should bring starter -crank to its disengaged position when foot pressure is removed. -CAUTION: <i>Make sure that starter crank pinch bolt is installed -with head of bolt toward rear of vehicle when crank is in upright -position.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">38</td> -<td><b>Engine Cooling Fins.</b> Inspect engine cooling fins for good -condition and cleanliness. Remove all dirt or foreign matter. Do -not apply paint to cooling fins.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">39</td> -<td><b>Filler Caps and Vents.</b> Wipe dirt and dust from filler caps -of fuel and oil tanks. Inspect caps and gaskets to see that they -are in good condition. Note whether vent in fuel filler <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span>cap is -open. Reinstall caps, observing that each locks properly on filler -neck. Do not interchange fuel and oil tank filler caps.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">40</td> -<td><b>Fuel Tank Valves and Lines.</b> See that valves and lines are in -good condition, secure, and not leaking. Test fuel shut‐off valve for -ample friction to hold valve in reserve position. See that valve lifts -freely enough to operate satisfactorily.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">41</td> -<td><b>Oil System Leaks.</b> Examine oil tank, oil lines, vent line, -and connections for good condition, secure attachment, and for -leaks.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">42</td> -<td><b>Carburetor and Fuel Filter</b> (<b>Gasoline Strainer</b>). -Examine carburetor and fuel filter for good condition, secure -connections, and for leaks. Shut off fuel tank valve and remove -filter (strainer) cap and screen. Wash cap and screen in -dry‐cleaning solvent, and open shut‐off valve slightly to flush -filter body. Reassemble screen, gaskets, and cap, being careful not -to damage gaskets. Use new gaskets if necessary. Drain water and -foreign matter from carburetor bowl by removing bowl drain plug. -Open shut‐off valve slightly to flush carburetor bowl while plug is -out. Replace plug, being careful to avoid crossing threads. Open -fuel tank shut‐off valve and check for leaks.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">43</td> -<td><b>Air Cleaner.</b> Remove oil cup; inspect condition of oil, and -amount of sediment. If service is required, remove filter elements, -clean and fill cup to NORMAL level. Wash elements in dry‐cleaning -solvent, dry thoroughly with compressed air, immerse each element -in oil in cup, and reassemble elements and oil cup to air cleaner -body immediately. Make sure gaskets are in good condition. NOTE: -<i>Early type round cleaner does not have removable filter element; -therefore, the complete cleaner body must be removed to wash -element.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">44</td> -<td><b>Gearshift Lever and Linkage.</b> See that gearshift lever -and linkage are in good condition, secure, and not excessively -worn. Lubricate all joints with a few drops of engine oil. Adjust -shifter lever so that when moved to any gear position in shifter -guide on tank, the transmission is shifted to full engagement in -corresponding gear.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">45</td> -<td><b>Primary Drive.</b> Remove inspection hole cover from front chain -guard. With clutch engaged and transmission in neutral, rotate -primary chain to position of least slack. Check chain for ½–inch -deflection. Deflection measurement should<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> be total up‐and‐down -free movement. Inspect chain for adequate lubrication. Loosen front -and rear chain oiler adjusting screws two turns each. Do not remove -screws. Idle engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do -not force. This operation serves to flush control valves and rear -chain oiler pipe.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">46</td> -<td><b>Clutch Pedal and Linkage.</b> Inspect clutch pedal clevis connections -and cable to see that they are in good condition and not -excessively worn. Check free travel of clutch pedal to make sure -it is within specified limits. With foot pedal in fully disengaged -position (heel against footboard) clutch release lever must clear -sprocket cover stud and nut by about <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch: with foot pedal in -fully engaged position, clutch release lever must have between <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>– -and ¼–inch of free movement on end of foot pedal cable. Lubricate -all joints with a few drops of engine oil, including cable at each -end of cable housing.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">47</td> -<td><b>Rear Chain and Guard.</b> Inspect rear chain guard for good condition -and secure mounting. Remove chain, wash thoroughly in dry‐cleaning -solvent, and hang it up to dry. See that chain is in good -condition, not excessively worn, and has no broken rollers on side -plates. Soak chain in SAE 10 engine oil for a short period of time -to allow oil to penetrate into all rollers; drain chain, and wipe -off excess oil. Inspect countershaft sprocket, and rear wheel -sprocket to see that they are in good condition, not excessively -worn, and that rear sprocket rivets are tight. Do not reinstall -chain until item 71 has been performed. When reinstalling chain, -make sure that connecting link is in good condition and securely -locked. See that open end of connecting link spring clip is -trailing in direction of chain travel. Adjust chain (paragraph <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">48</td> -<td><b>Final Drive Sprockets.</b> Inspection of final drive sprockets is made -when performing item 47.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">50</td> -<td><b>Paint and Markings.</b> Examine vehicle for good condition and see that -paint is not rubbed to a polish, and has no bare spots that might -rust or reflect light. See that vehicle markings are legible.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">51</td> -<td><b>Frame.</b> Examine frame for good condition; observe whether it seems -to be sprung out of alinement.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">52</td> -<td><b>Steering Head and Fork Stem.</b> Raise front end of vehicle by placing -blocks under skid plate. Complete all following items to and -including item 71, before lowering vehicle to ground. Examine -steering head and fork stems for good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> condition. Note whether -there is up‐and‐down play caused by loose bearings. Move handle -bars through complete range and observe if there is any binding -which might indicate improperly adjusted or defective bearings.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">53</td> -<td><b>Handle Bars.</b> Examine handle bars for good condition and -secure mounting.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">54</td> - - - -<td><b>Throttle Control.</b> See that grip is in good condition, that -throttle opens and closes completely as grip is turned to its -extreme positions, and that control wire and housing are in good -condition and secure. Lubricate lightly through hole in rear of -grip to avoid rusting and “freezing.” If grip does not rotate -freely, disassemble grip, clean, and lubricate spiral control parts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">55</td> -<td><b>Spark Control.</b> See that grip is in good condition, that -spark is fully advanced and retarded as the grip is turned to its -extreme positions; that the control wire and housing are in good -condition and secure. Lubricate lightly through hole in rear of -grip to avoid rusting and “freezing.” If grip does not rotate -freely, disassemble grip, clean, and lubricate spiral control parts.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">57</td> -<td><b>Rear View Mirror.</b> Clean rear view mirror and examine for -good condition and secure mounting.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">58</td> -<td><b>Front Fender</b> (<b>Mudguard</b>). Examine front fender for -good condition and secure mounting; see that fender does not scrape -tire.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">59</td> -<td><b>Weapon Carrier.</b> Inspect weapon carrier for good condition -and secure mounting.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">60</td> -<td><b>Ammunition Box.</b> See that ammunition box and cover are in -good condition and securely attached.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">61</td> -<td><b>Front Springs.</b> See that front springs and their mountings -are in good condition, correctly assembled, and secure.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">62</td> -<td><b>Front Forks.</b> See that front forks are in good condition and -securely mounted.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">63</td> -<td><b>Front Fork Rocker Plates</b> (<b>Rocker Arms).</b> See that front fork -rocket plates are in good condition, secure, and not excessively -worn. Tighten rocker plate stud nuts securely.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">64</td> -<td><b>Front Fork Damper.</b> Inspect steering damper for good -condition and to see that it operates freely. Observe whether -friction disks are glazed, coated with grease, or excessively worn.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">65</td> -<td><b>Front Brake and Control Linkage.</b> See that control linkage -operates freely, that all connections are tight, and that <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span>brake is -adjusted so that end of hand lever has ¼ free travel before meeting -resistance. Look for any indications of a cracked or excessively -worn brake drum: badly worn, loose, or grease‐saturated linings. If -there are any such indications, remove wheel for closer inspection. -Look for badly worn brake side cover bushing, shackle bushings and -studs, or brake operating stud bearing. Apply a few drops of engine -oil to control cable, especially at control housing oiler at left -handle bar, and to pin joints.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">66</td> -<td><b>Front Wheel Alinement and Spokes.</b> Examine front wheel spokes -for presence, good condition, and tightness. If loose spokes are -found, tighten evenly, taking care not to distort rim out‐of‐round, -or to cause run‐out. Examine rim for good condition, and spin wheel -to see that it has no appreciable run‐out.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">67</td> -<td><b>Front Wheel Bearings.</b> Inspect wheel to see whether bearings -are excessively loose. Wheel should have slight amount of side -play at rim. Spin wheel and listen for unusual noises which -might indicate dry or defective bearings or races. Observe for -excessive grease leak. If wheel is found to need only slight cone -readjustment to correct excessive bearing play, remove wheel and -make this adjustment (par. <a href="#para_126">126</a>). If indications are found that hub -is otherwise in bad order, replace wheel.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><span class="smcap">Each Sixth 1,000–Mile Maintenance Service.</span> Remove front -wheel, axle sleeve and bearing, and, together with wheel hub, -clean thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent. Inspect parts for good -condition: inspect brake drum. Inspect lining for good condition -and secure attachment, and see that it is neither excessively worn -nor soaked with grease. Repack bearings, hub, and axle sleeve with -specified lubricant. CAUTION: <i>Make sure that hands and grease are -perfectly clean, and that grease is forced between balls onto the -cone.</i> Reassemble and adjust bearings according to instructions in -paragraph <a href="#para_126">126</a>, taking care to see that wheel is properly alined. -If unusual operating conditions, such as fording streams, have -indicated probable contamination of lubricant, this service should -be performed more frequently.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">68</td> -<td><b>Front Wheel Axle Nuts.</b> Tighten axle nuts, making sure -that cotter pins are installed. Slot in stabilizer plate must be -anchored on extended end of left‐front rocker plate stud.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">69</td> -<td><b>Tires, Front and Rear.</b> Gage tires and inflate to 18 pounds -front, and 20 pounds rear (cold). Make sure that valve stems are -in good condition and correctly installed, and that valve caps are -present and secure. Examine tires for <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span>cuts, bruises, breaks, and -blisters: remove imbedded glass, nails, or other foreign matter -from tire treads; observe treads for excessive or irregular tire -wear. At any inspection when unusual or irregular tire wear becomes -evident, interchange front and rear tires.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">70</td> -<td><b>Rear Wheel Alinement and Spokes.</b> With vehicle on rear stand, -inspect in same manner as front wheel (item 66). If it is necessary -to aline wheel in frame, make sure sprockets and chains are in -correct alinement.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">71</td> -<td><b>Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals.</b> Inspect wheel to see whether -bearings are excessively loose (wheel should have a slight amount -of play at rim). Spin wheel and listen for unusual noise which -might indicate dry or defective bearings. Also observe whether -there is excessive grease leak. Test for excessive end play. If -wheel is found to have considerable side play at rim, indicating -excessively worn bearings, or there is evidence of hub assembly -being in bad order otherwise, replace wheel. If wheel must be -replaced, inspect brake drum and lining for good condition, as -indicated in item 75, before reinstalling wheel. CAUTION: <i>Make -sure that wheel mounting socket screws are tight.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">72</td> -<td><b>Rear Wheel Axle Nut.</b> See that rear wheel axle nut is in good -condition and securely tightened.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">74</td> -<td><b>Rear Fender</b> (<b>Mudguard</b>). Inspect rear fender for good -condition and secure attachment.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">75</td> -<td><b>Rear Brake and Control Linkage.</b> See that brake control -linkage operates freely, and that all connections are secure. Look -for indications of badly worn or grease‐saturated linings. If brake -operating lever stands considerably ahead of vertical, excessive -lining wear is indicated. If grease has worked out between brake -drum and brake cover, grease‐saturated linings are indicated. In -either case the wheel should be removed for closer inspection. -Inspect drum for cracks or excessive wear. Make sure wheel mounting -socket screws are tight. Examine linkage for loose or worn pin or -clevis, and for missing washers or cotter pins. Apply a few drops -of engine oil to all linkage joints. Brake pedal should have 1–inch -free travel before brake begins to meet resistance. Adjust length -of brake rod at brake operating lever to provide 1–inch free pedal -travel.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">77</td> -<td><b>Footboard and Rest.</b> Examine footboard and rest for good -condition and secure attachment.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">78</td> -<td><b>Saddle Spring and Hinge.</b> Examine saddle for good condition -and secure mounting, paying particular attention to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span>torn leather, -ripped seams, sagging or broken spring in seat post, and excessive -wear in front hinge. CAUTION: <i>Make sure that spring wire clip -properly locks the saddle rear hinge clevis pin.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">79</td> -<td><b>Luggage Carrier.</b> Examine luggage carrier for good condition -and secure mounting.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">80</td> -<td><b>Saddle Bags.</b> Examine saddle bags for good condition, -cleanliness, and secure fastening to luggage carrier. Note -particularly whether leather is torn, seams ripped, or straps and -buckles missing or damaged.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">81</td> -<td><b>Tools, Tire Pump, and Equipment.</b> Inspect tool kit, tools, -tire pump, and other equipment for good condition, cleanliness, -serviceability, and proper stowage. Make sure that tire pump is -securely clamped to motorcycle frame. Check all items with stowage -list (pars. <a href="#para_21">21</a>, <a href="#para_22">22</a> and <a href="#para_23">23</a>). Make sure that vehicle manuals and -Accident Report Form No. 26 are present on vehicle and legible.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">82</td> -<td><b>Safety Guards.</b> Inspect safety guards for good condition and -secure mounting.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">83</td> -<td><b>Leg Shields.</b> Inspect leg shields for good condition and -secure mounting. NOTE: <i>Motorcycles operating in warm weather -should not be equipped with leg shields, as they seriously hamper -engine cooling.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">84</td> -<td><b>Skid Plate.</b> Examine skid plate for good condition and secure -mounting. CAUTION: <i>Skid plate must be present.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">85</td> -<td><b>Vehicle Lubrication.</b> Lubricate all points of vehicle in -accordance with instructions in this manual, Lubrication Guide, -current lubrication bulletins or directives, and the following -instructions:</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td>Any unit that required disassembly for inspection purposes must -be lubricated correctly unless the vehicle is to be deadlined -for the repair of that unit. Use only clean lubricant. Keep all -lubricant containers covered except when used during lubrication. -Before applying lubricant, always wipe dirt from the lubrication -fitting or plug so that dirt will not enter with the lubricant. -If lubricant fittings or plugs are missing or damaged, replace -them. Clean the hole in which the fitting is to be installed, and -lubricate after the new fitting has been installed.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td>Lubricant must be applied properly. On unsealed joints or bushings, -apply lubricant until it appears at openings. However, lubricate -sparingly the front wheel hub, rear wheel hub, front brake side -cover bushing, front brake operating<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> lever stud, and rear brake -operating lever stud, to prevent grease reaching brake linings. -Rider should be advised whenever wheel bearings are serviced or -adjusted, so that during the next road operation he may determine -whether bearings or brake drums are running hot, due to overtight -adjustment of bearings, or a dragging brake.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td>Do not apply more than specified amount of lubricant to generator -or timer (circuit breaker). To do so may cause failure of the unit.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td>Wipe off excess applied lubricant that may drip onto brake or -operating surfaces, soil clothes, or detract from vehicle’s -appearance.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td>Parts or assemblies that have already been lubricated while -disassembled for inspection, gear cases that have been drained and -refilled as mandatory items in the procedure, and those parts that -have been indicated for special lubrication, will be omitted from -the general lubrication of the vehicle.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc vertt">86</td> -<td><b>Final Road Test.</b> Make a final road test, reinspecting -items 2 to 16, inclusive. Be sure to recheck transmission to see -that lubricant is at correct level and not leaking. Confine this -road test to the minimum distance necessary to make satisfactory -observation. Correct or report all deficiencies found during final -road test to designated authority.</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_IX"><span class="small sansserif">Section IX</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">ORGANIZATION TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc IX"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tools and equipment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_27">27</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_27">27. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Refer to SNL–N 19 for common hand tools available to second -echelon.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Refer to list given below for all special tools available to -second echelon.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="tool kit"> -<tr> -<th class="tdc"><span class="smallest sansserif">Special Tool Description</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Manufacturer’s Number</span></th> -<th class="tdc vertb"><span class="smallest sansserif">Federal Stock Number</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Hydrometer, battery, special</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 11831–X</td> -<td class="vertb">18–H–1242</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Tool, repair, drive chain, motorcycle universal</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 12039–X</td> -<td class="vertb">41–T–3320</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Tool, spoke tightening, special, ¾–inch, for small diameter spokes</p></td> -<td class="vertb">IMC 7–T–3259</td> -<td class="vertb">41–T–3368–20</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, cyl. base nut, twin</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 12650–29</td> -<td class="vertb">2941–W–872–10</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, head bolt</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 12047–30A</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–1525</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, manifold, 45–in. twin</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 12003–X</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–1570–10</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, spark plug</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 11929–40</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3334</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, spoke nipple, front wheel</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 12032–X</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3339</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, spoke nipple, heavy duty rear wheel</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 12033–39</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3340</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p class="indent">Wrench, tappet and dbl–head open–end <sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>– and 1⅜–in</p></td> -<td class="vertb">HRD 11806–31</td> -<td class="vertb">41–W–3617</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_X"><span class="small sansserif">Section X</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">TROUBLE SHOOTING</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc X"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Introduction</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_28">28</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Engine</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_29">29</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Engine lubricating system</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_30">30</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fuel system</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_31">31</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Ignition system</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_32">32</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Generating system</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_33">33</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Electrical system</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_34">34</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Transmission and clutch</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_35">35</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Wheels and chains</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_36">36</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Brakes</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_37">37</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Steering</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_38">38</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_28">28. INTRODUCTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Trouble shooting for the entire vehicle is given in this -section. The engine trouble shooting paragraph traces trouble to a -system affecting engine performance: for example, fuel or ignition. To -trace trouble to one or more defective components of a system, it is -necessary to refer to the pertinent paragraph of this section when the -defective system or systems have been located in the engine trouble -shooting paragraph.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> The material given in this section applies to the operation -of the vehicle under normal conditions. If extreme conditions of -temperature occur, it is assumed the operator of the vehicle has -prepared his vehicle for use for the conditions encountered.</p> - -<h4 id="para_29">29. ENGINE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Instruction.</b> This subparagraph traces troubles to a -system affecting engine performance. Step b below gives simple engine -tests to determine the mechanical condition of the engine. References -in step b refer to step c for engine mechanical troubles, or to -pertinent paragraphs in this section for system troubles, or when a -test indicates a special unit is faulty, to the pertinent paragraph in -this manual.</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Engine Does Not Turn Over When Foot Starter Is Operated.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Clutch slipping. Check adjustment (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. <a href="#para_65">65</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Starter clutch stuck by congealed oil. Free starter clutch. Use -proper grade of oil.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Starter clutch worn. Refer to maintenance personnel.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span></p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) Engine locked (seized). Refer to organization mechanic.</p> - - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Engine Turns Over When Cranked but Does Not Start.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Fuel supply valve closed. Open valve.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Fuel system faulty. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_31">31</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Ignition system faulty. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_32">32</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) Battery weak or dead. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_34">34</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>f</i>) Insufficient compression. Refer to step b, below.</p> - - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Weak Compression.</span> Refer to step b below for test.</p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Improper valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. <a href="#para_43">43</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Valves sticking. Use dry‐cleaning solvent to free valve stems in -guides.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Faulty lubrication. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_20">20</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or faulty gasket. Tighten head -bolts or replace gasket (par. <a href="#para_41">41</a>).</p> - - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Overheating.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_31">31</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Dirt on cylinders. Clean fins on cylinder, especially the fins on -cylinder head.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_30">30</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_32">32</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) Idling engine without having vehicle in motion. Do not idle -engine longer than 1 minute.</p> - -<p>(<i>f</i>) Valve tappet adjustment incorrect. Refer to step b (1) below for -test, to paragraph <a href="#para_43">43</a> for adjustment.</p> - -<p>(<i>g</i>) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. <a href="#para_59">59</a> and <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>h</i>) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to organization mechanic.</p> - - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Lack of Power.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_31">31</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_32">32</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Overheating. Refer to step (4) above.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Defective lubricating system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_30">30</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) Poor compression. Refer to step (3) above.</p> - -<p>(<i>f</i>) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. <a href="#para_59">59</a> and <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>g</i>) Brakes dragging. Adjust (pars. <a href="#para_96">96</a> and <a href="#para_97">97</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) <span class="smcap">Popping and Spitting Through Carburetor.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Water in fuel. Water may be present in fuel tank and carburetor. -Drain and refill fuel tank and carburetor bowl.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment or sticky valves. Test (step -<b>b</b> (1) below). Adjust tappets (par. <a href="#para_43">43</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> (<i>c</i>) Defective -ignition system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_32">32</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_31">31</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) Weak and/or broken valve springs. Refer to higher authority.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Spark Knock.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_32">32</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to step b (2) below.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_31">31</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_30">30</a>.</p> - -<p>(8) <span class="smcap">Pounding and Excessive Metallic Noise.</span></p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) Front drive chain too loose. Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_36">36</a>.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) Engine sprocket loose on shaft.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) Excessively loose valve tappets. Adjust (par. <a href="#para_43">43</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten.</p> - -<p>(<i>e</i>) Transmission mounting stud nuts loose. Tighten (par. <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p>(<i>f</i>) Spark timing incorrect. Adjust.</p> - -<p>(<i>g</i>) Internal parts of engine worn or broken. Notify organization -mechanic.</p> - -<p id="para_29b"><b>b. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.</b></p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Rings and Valves.</span> This is a simple compression test. If -possible, make this test with the engine warm. Ignition switch must -be off. Crank engine slowly, placing entire weight of body on starter -crank. Engine compression should sustain the weight of an average size -rider several seconds before crank passes through complete range of -its travel. If engine offers little resistance to starter crank in -testing either or both cylinders, it is an indication that compression -is not adequate in one or both cylinders. No clearance or insufficient -clearance at valve tappets; valves sticking in guides; valves seating -poorly; cylinder heads leaking; spark plugs loose in heads; piston -rings badly worn and/or broken; cylinder and pistons badly worn, or -lack of lubrication could cause the above condition. Make external -checks first: See that oil is in tank, that spark plugs are tight, and -examine around cylinder heads for signs of leaking oil deposits. In -extremely cold weather, resistance to the starter crank is increased by -“stiff” oil in engine and transmission. Therefore, do not mistake this -condition to indicate actual engine compression.</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Abnormal Engine Noise.</span> Owing to constructional design of -the motorcycle, correct adjustment of the several units and components -is necessary for smooth and normally quiet engine operation. Many -motorcycles have been “deadlined” and engines exchanged because -simple tune‐up service and correct adjustment of components have been -neglected. Rough, jerky, and noisy engine action at low speed riding -is usually caused by excessively loose front and rear drive chains, -or by a transmission being loose in its frame mounting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> Fast idling -of engine with the front drive chain too loose, may give the false -impression that the engine bearings and pistons need replacement -service. Engine sprocket loose on its shaft will cause a pounding noise -similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If front drive chain -is too tight, or engine sprocket and chain are badly worn, a grinding -noise results, seeming to come from the engine. Excessively loose valve -tappets will cause abnormal metallic noise in the valve timing gear -train and engine crankcase. Spark advanced too far will cause rough -engine performance at low speeds as well as spark knock, pounding, -and overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation with consequent -noise, result from loose mounting bolts. Generator mounted to give -insufficient gear‐tooth clearance will cause “howl” in gear case.</p> - -<h4 id="para_30">30. ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEM.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Action of the oil feed pump is indicated by the red signal -light located in right side of instrument panel. (Red signal light is -normally grounded by the oil pressure switch. When oil pump pressure -is built up several pounds, diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.) -Action of the scavenger (oil return) pump is indicated (engine running) -by oil dripping from <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–inch hole in oil return tube (large tube) inside -oil tank, just back of oil gage rod (dip stick) tube. Since the oil -feed pump and scavenger pump are separate units, operated individually, -it is possible (due to faulty unit) for either to function alone, thus -affecting engine oil pressure and return of oil to the tank. Action -of the vent pipe (small pipe) located within the oil tank is of a -“breather” nature; its function not being indicated in any manner. -Before attempting to diagnose trouble in engine lubricating system, -rider must be familiar with and understand indications by instrument -panel signal lights (par. <a href="#para_7f">7 <b>f</b></a>).</p> - -<p><b>b. Red Signal Light Fails to Burn When Ignition and Light -Switch is Turned On.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Check other lights to determine if battery is “up” and that switch -and wiring connections between battery and switch are in good order. -See that wire connection is secure and screw is tight on oil pressure -switch terminal. Failure of light to burn after these checks indicates -that either the lamp is burned out or oil pressure switch is faulty.</p> - -<p>(2) Test to eliminate the oil pressure switch by removing wire from -switch terminal; ground wire on switch body and note if red light burns -with ignition and light switch in “ON” position. If light burns, it -indicates that oil pressure switch is faulty, and must be replaced. -If light does not burn in making this test, it indicates that lamp is -burned out. Remove panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>) and replace lamp.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Red Signal Light Continues to Burn After Engine Is -Operated Above Idling Speeds.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Check oil supply in tank. If light fails to go out after engine -is warm, or after 1 minute of operation, further checks must be made -to locate trouble, as indication points to faulty engine lubrication -system, or fault in signal circuit. Eliminate the signal system first.</p> - -<p>(2) Test oil pressure signal switch to panel signal light circuit. -Remove wire from oil pressure switch terminal by turning on ignition -and light switch and observing red signal light. If light burns, short -circuit in wiring exists. If light does not burn, it indicates normal -condition, leaving oil pressure switch of the signal circuit to be -tested.</p> - -<p>(3) Install new oil pressure switch and start engine. If red signal -light goes out after engine is operated above idling speeds, it -indicates trouble in oil pressure signal switch. If red signal light -continues to burn, it indicates trouble in oil feed pump. Replace pump -(par. <a href="#para_44">44</a>).</p> - -<p><b>d. Excessive Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues -from Gear Case Breather Outlet.</b> This is an indication that the -scavenger pump is not draining engine crankcase and returning oil to -tank. With engine running at idle speed, examine oil return in tank. -Remove tank oil cap, and with a small flashlight (tactical situation -permitting), observe whether or not oil is dripping from <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–inch hole -in oil return tube. Hole is on under side of tube and is located just -back of oil gage rod tube. If observation is poor, place finger over -hole and feel for pulsation of oil pressure. If oil does not return to -tank, scavenger pump is faulty. Should the crankcase breather valve -be incorrectly timed, smoke will issue from the exhaust, but not as -noticeably as when scavenger pump is not working. Refer to step e below -for this condition.</p> - -<p><b>e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists -Around Cylinder Exhaust Ports</b> (<b>where exhaust pipes enter -cylinders</b>). Engine scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are -one unit, operated by worm gear located behind engine shaft pinion -gear. Although scavenger pump is not “timed,” the breather valve sleeve -which drives it must be timed to balance the engine lubricating system. -If for any reason the scavenger pump unit is removed from engine base, -the breather valve must be retimed (within the gear case) when pump -assembly is replaced. Incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil -past piston rings, causing some smoke, besides forcing oil out through -exhaust ports, causing excessive oily condition around exhaust pipes -where they enter cylinder ports.</p> - -<h4 id="para_31">31. FUEL SYSTEM.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Many symptoms which might be attributed to the air‐fuel -system are, in reality, due to faulty ignition. Before attempting any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> -but the obviously required adjustments, check the ignition system -thoroughly. Gasoline tank supply valve is a dual purpose valve, and its -operation is explained in paragraph <a href="#para_5b">5 <b>b</b></a>.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Shut off gasoline supply valve. Disconnect fuel line at -strainer, open valve, and observe free flow of fuel from pipe. If line -is plugged, remove, clean out, and replace.</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> Remove, disassemble, clean, and install fuel strainer (par. -<a href="#para_72">72</a>).</p> - -<p><b>d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water -in Fuel.</b> Remove drain screw from carburetor bowl, drain bowl, -and replace screw. Take care not to cross drain screw threads when -replacing. If there is still evidence of water, dirt, or other foreign -matter after bowl is drained, replace carburetor (pars. <a href="#para_70">70</a> and <a href="#para_71">71</a>). -Remove air cleaner oil cup and inspect for evidence of water in oil. -Drain, clean, refill to correct level mark, and replace cup. Should -above procedure fail to eliminate trouble, drain fuel tank by removing -drain plug located under tank in forward position. Replace drain plug -and refill tank with fuel.</p> - -<p><b>e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds.</b> -Carburetor low speed circuit in need of adjustment (par. <a href="#para_68">68</a>). -Carburetor high speed circuit is controlled by a fixed jet.</p> - -<p><b>f. Impossible to Obtain Satisfactory Carburetor Adjustment: -Lean Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 Miles per Hour Speeds.</b> -Carburetors in service for some time become dirty and crust forms -in the throttle barrel, making satisfactory low speed adjustment -difficult, if not impossible. Replace carburetor (pars. <a href="#para_70">70</a> and <a href="#para_71">71</a>).</p> - -<p><b>g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor.</b> Evidence of dirt in -float valve, incorrect float level, or faulty float. Replace carburetor -(pars. <a href="#para_70">70</a> and <a href="#para_71">71</a>).</p> - -<p><b>h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich.</b> Air cleaner -oil cup overfilled, or cleaner elements exceptionally dirty, choking -off adequate air supply to carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If oil -cup level is correct, remove, clean, and install cleaner elements (par. -<a href="#para_76">76</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_32">32. IGNITION SYSTEM.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> When checking ignition system for trouble, make the most -obvious and simple checks first. For example: Turn on ignition and -light switch, observe lights to ascertain battery current supply; then -check to see that current is reaching spark coil, circuit breaker, etc. -Faulty spark plugs are responsible for the great majority of engine -ignition troubles. There is no service for spark plugs other than -sandblast cleaning and correct adjustment of electrodes. Questionable -spark plugs must be replaced (par. <a href="#para_83">83</a>).</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Remedy all poor connections in ignition wiring system ( -<a href="#fig_48">fig. 48</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c.</b> Remove circuit breaker cover, operate engine with starter -pedal, and observe opening and closing of circuit breaker points. -Correct point gap when breaker lever fiber is on highest point of cam -is 0.022 inch. For adjustment refer to paragraph <a href="#para_84">84</a>.</p> - -<p><b>d. Testing for High Tension Spark.</b> Spark at plug gaps -depends upon condition and operation of circuit breaker points, -condition of condenser, and condition of spark coil and high‐tension -cables. Testing the ignition system is best done by means of -elimination, testing each unit by replacement until trouble is located; -then replacing serviceable units which were removed.</p> - -<p>(1) Remove spark plug cable terminal from either plug, leaving other -cable and plug connected (to effect ground return of high‐tension -current); turn engine until circuit breaker points are closed; turn -ignition and light switch on; hold high tension cable terminal ¼ inch -from cylinder; open and close circuit breaker points with finger and -observe spark jump at gap. If spark jumps gap, it indicates ignition -primary and secondary circuits are complete.</p> - -<p>(2) No spark at high‐tension gap calls for testing of primary and -secondary circuits. Turn engine until breaker points are held open; -hold cable end ¼ inch from cylinder; turn ignition switch on and with -the bit of a screwdriver, make a good ground connection between breaker -movable (lever) point, and the ground. If a good spark is obtained -at high‐tension cable terminal gap when ground connection made by -screwdriver is broken, clean or replace faulty breaker points (par. <a href="#para_84">84</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) If circuit breaker points are in good condition, but no spark (or -a very weak spark) occurs at high‐tension gap, replace condenser (par. -<a href="#para_85">85</a>) and repeat test under step (1) above. If replacement of condenser -does not remedy trouble, replace spark coil (par. <a href="#para_89">89</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) If tests made under steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show ignition -system to be in good order (no units having been replaced), and -ignition trouble still exists, it means that breaker points, condenser, -and spark coil must be replaced with new units and engine road test -made with each replacement until trouble has been located and remedied.</p> - -<p><b>e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard, -Overheats or Misses.</b> Clearly an indication that spark plugs are -faulty. Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast, regap points between -0.028 inch to 0.030 inch and reinstall. Replace defective plugs with -new ones of correct (No. 2) heat range (par. <a href="#para_83">83</a>).</p> - -<p><b>f. Engine Misses After Warm‐up, or When Quite Hot.</b> -Replacement of spark plugs should remedy this trouble. If it does not, -then either the condenser or spark coil is at fault. Replace condenser -first (par. <a href="#para_85">85</a>). If new condenser fails to correct trouble, replace -spark coil (par. <a href="#para_89">89</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span></p> - - -<h4 id="para_33">33. GENERATING SYSTEM.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Panel Green Signal Light Continues to Burn Above 20 Miles -per Hour.</b> Correct faulty wiring and connections between battery -and generator. Refer to <a href="#fig_55">figure 55</a>. Inspect condition of relay and, -if necessary, replace (par. <a href="#para_95">95</a>). Inspect brushes and commutator of -generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. <a href="#para_91">91</a>). If brushes are -sticking in holders or badly worn, replace generator (pars. <a href="#para_93">93</a> and <a href="#para_94">94</a>).</p> - -<p><b>b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Although -Green Signal Light Behavior Is Satisfactory.</b> Test battery: if it -will not hold charge, or is defective, replace (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>). If the -machine is used most of the time for night operation, have a higher -echelon increase the generating charging rate. Inspect brushes and -commutator of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. <a href="#para_91">91</a>). If -brushes are badly worn or sticking in holders, replace generator (pars. -<a href="#para_93">93</a> and <a href="#para_94">94</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_34">34. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Panel Lamps Do Not Light When Switch Is Turned On.</b> -Examine each lamp and if burned out, replace (par. <a href="#para_120">120</a>). Examine -battery; if discharged, replace (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>). Remedy defective wiring and -connections (<a href="#fig_71">fig. 71</a>). Test light switch: if defective, replace (par. -<a href="#para_116">116</a>). Test blackout light switch (in lamp body): if defective, replace -lamp (par. <a href="#para_114">114</a>).</p> - -<p><b>b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine -Is Accelerated.</b> Test battery with hydrometer. If it is not fully -charged, replace (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>). Remedy defective wiring, connections, and -switches in circuit (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>). If the battery runs down again after a -short period of operation, have the generator output increased (refer -to a higher echelon).</p> - -<p><b>c. Lights Exceed Normal Brilliancy When Accelerating -Engine.</b> Examine battery: if defective, replace (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>). Remedy -faulty wiring and connections (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>). Do not forget the ground -connection of the lamp body.</p> - -<p><b>d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to -Light.</b> If the unit is burned out, replace it (par. <a href="#para_115">115</a>). If the -brake pedal is not operating switch, remedy the faulty operation. -Remedy all faulty wiring and connections (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span></p> - -<p><b>e. Horn Does Not Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Is -Turned On and Horn Button Is Pressed.</b> Test battery by turning on -lights. If lights are dim, replace battery (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>). Remedy defective -wiring and connections (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>). If the horn does not respond to -adjustment, replace (par. <a href="#para_117">117</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_35">35. TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Need for attention to clutch and controls is indicated by -clutch slipping under load or dragging (transmission gears will shift -hard and clash) when in disengaged position. In either case, the first -thing to be checked is adjustment of controls; this being the attention -usually needed. Indication that gear shifter controls are in need of -adjustment is when transmission gears “jump” out of engagement when -accelerating vehicle or when under heavy pull. CAUTION: <i>This warning -must not be disregarded.</i></p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Clutch Slips When Fully Engaged.</span> Adjust clutch control -(par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>). Adjust clutch spring tension (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>). If the clutch still -slips, replace either the disks, springs, or both (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Clutch Drags When Fully Disengaged.</span> Adjust control (par. -48). Adjust spring tension (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Clutch Rattles When in Disengaged Position, Engine Idling.</span> -In this case, the clutch probably was not properly assembled. Refer to -paragraph <a href="#para_51a">51 <b>a</b></a>.</p> - -<p>(4) <span class="smcap">Transmission “Jumps” Out of Gear Upon Accelerating Vehicle, or -When Under Heavy Pull.</span> Adjust shifter lever control linkage (par. -<a href="#para_54">54</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) <span class="smcap">Transmission Gears Shift Hard or Clash When Clutch is Fully -Disengaged.</span> Adjust clutch control linkage and spring tension (par. -<a href="#para_48">48</a>). Make sure the transmission mounting bolts and units are tight -(pars. <a href="#para_57">57</a> and <a href="#para_58">58</a>). Drain and fill transmission with correct lubricant -(<a href="#fig_10">fig. 10</a>). If the above methods fail to cure the symptom, refer to a -higher authority.</p> - -<h4 id="para_36">36. WHEELS AND CHAINS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show -Excessive Wear on One Side of Teeth.</b> Adjust the position of the -rear wheel axle to aline the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission -sprocket (par. <a href="#para_60">60</a>). If they cannot be alined, the frame is out of -alinement, and the trouble must be referred to a higher authority.</p> - -<p><b>b. Chains Produce Grinding Noise with Engine Idling and -Vehicle on Rear Stand.</b> If either chain is adjusted too tight, -adjust to proper tension (pars. <a href="#para_59">59</a> and <a href="#para_60">60</a>). Examine both chains for -presence of dirt and grit. If dirty, clean and lubricate them (par. <a href="#para_20c_10">20 -<b>c</b> (10)</a>). If either chain is dry, adjust chain oilers (par. <a href="#para_61">61</a>). -Badly worn chains and sprockets will cause this symptom; the worn parts -must be replaced (pars. <a href="#para_62">62</a> and <a href="#para_63">63</a>).</p> - -<p><b>c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance.</b> The -chain in this condition has not been receiving enough lubrication.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> -Adjust chain oiler (par. <a href="#para_61">61</a>). If the chain is damaged from lack of oil, -replace (par. <a href="#para_62">62</a>).</p> - -<p><b>d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed.</b> Chains -are too loose. Adjust (pars. <a href="#para_59">59</a> and <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p><b>e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel.</b> Adjust -bearing cones (par. <a href="#para_126">126</a>). If the cones and or hub races are badly worn, -replace wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p><b>f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise -(not in brake).</b> The wheel bearings are defective. Replace wheel -(par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p><b>g. Rear Wheel Has Excessive Side Play at Rim of Wheel.</b> -The hub bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>).</p> - -<p><b>h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play in Excess of 0.010 inch on -Axle.</b> The thrust washers of hub are worn or damaged. Replace wheel -(par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>).</p> - -<p><b>i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating -Noise</b> (<b>chain removed</b>). Tighten wheel mounting screws. If -this does not correct noise, replace wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_37">37. BRAKES.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Rear Brake Does Not Hold When Foot Pedal Is Depressed.</b> -If the brake linings are wet, operate the vehicle and apply a slight -pressure to the brake pedal to dry out linings. After drying the -linings adjust brake rod length (par. <a href="#para_96b">96 b</a>). If the brake operating -lever stands ahead of the vertical position with brake applied, or the -brake does not hold, replace the defective brake shoes (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p><b>b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used.</b> Tighten -side plate sleeve nut, if it is loose. Adjust shoe position (par. -<a href="#para_96">96</a>). If the operating camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn, -replace the assembly (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>). If the brake shoe spring is defective, -replace (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>). If the lining on the brake shoes is loose, worn, -or defective, replace shoes (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>). If the brake drum is worn or -damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p><b>c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand).</b> Adjust -linkage (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>). If it still drags, equalize shoe assemblies, and -adjust linkage (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p><b>d. Front Brake Does Not Hold When Hand Lever Is Operated.</b> -Adjust brake control (par. <a href="#para_97">97</a>). If brakes are wet, operate vehicle a -short distance with slight pressure on brake lever to dry out linings. -If brake does not hold, replace shoes (par. <a href="#para_97">97</a>).</p> - -<p><b>e. Front Brake Drags.</b> Adjust control linkage (par. <a href="#para_97">97</a>). -If brake still drags, equalize shoes and readjust control linkage (par. -<a href="#para_97">97</a>).</p> - -<p><b>f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters.</b> Adjust -control linkage assembly (par. <a href="#para_97">97</a>). If malfunction continues, examine -brake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> shoes, shoe spring, camshaft bearing and side cover bearing. -Replace any defective parts or assemblies (par. <a href="#para_97">97</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_38">38. STEERING.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side.</b> Inspect and correct -alinement of rear wheel (par. <a href="#para_60">60</a>). If the front forks are bent or -twisted, replace (par. <a href="#para_98">98</a>). If trouble persists, refer to higher -authority.</p> - -<p><b>b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side.</b> Adjust steering -damper to suit speed and road conditions. If this fails, inflate tires -to correct pressure. Make sure rear wheel mounting screws are tight. If -the steering head bearings are too tight, weaving will result. Check -the steering head bearings (par. <a href="#para_98">98</a>), and adjust if necessary.</p> - -<p><b>c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed.</b> Inflate tires -to correct pressure. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road -conditions. If the tire tread is unevenly worn, and shifting tires does -not correct the condition, replace the defective casings. Make sure the -axle nuts are tight. If the rocker plate studs and bushings are badly -worn, or the fork springs are broken, replace (par. <a href="#para_98">98</a>).</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XI"><span class="small sansserif">Section XI</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">ENGINE</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XI"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description and data</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_39">39</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tune‐up</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_40">40</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of head gasket</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_41">41</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carbon removal</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_42">42</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Valve tappet adjustment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_43">43</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of oil feed pump</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_44">44</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_39">39. DESCRIPTION AND DATA.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Description.</b> This 2‐cylinder, V‐type, air‐cooled -gasoline engine of L‐head design operates on the 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle -principle. Flywheel and connecting rod assemblies operate on roller -bearings. Engine is fitted with low‐expansion aluminum alloy, -cam‐ground, horizontally slotted pistons and with deep‐finned aluminum -cylinder heads. As viewed from left side of vehicle (drive chain side), -rotation of engine is counterclockwise.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Lubrication system is of dry‐sump type, in which oil supply -is maintained in a tank away from engine. Oil is circulated by a -supply feed pump and a scavenger, return pump. This oil circulating -system plays a most important part in cooling the engine as well as -lubricating it.</p> - -<p><b>c. Data.</b></p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="engine data"> -<tr> -<th><span class="normal">Type of engine</span></th> -<th><span class="normal">2‐cylinder, V‐type, L‐head, air‐cooled</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cylinder bore</td> -<td>2¾ in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Stroke</td> -<td>3<sup>13</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Piston displacement</td> -<td>45.12 cu in.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Compression ratio</td> -<td>5.0:1</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Horsepower (N.A.C.C. Rating)</td> -<td>6.05</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2"><p class="indent">Engine number (serial), left side of engine base, just below front -cylinder.</p></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_40">40. TUNE‐UP.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Tune‐up consists of making correct adjustment to valve -tappets, circuit breaker ignition points, spark plug electrodes: -checking and correcting ignition timing; draining and flushing -carburetor bowl; cleaning and flushing gasoline strainer; cleaning -muffler outlet, servicing air cleaner, and adjusting carburetor.</p> - -<p>(1) Valve tappet adjustment (par. <a href="#para_43">43</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Circuit breaker point adjustment (par. <a href="#para_84">84</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Spark plug service (par. <a href="#para_83">83</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Timing ignition (par. <a href="#para_86">86</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Draining carburetor bowl (par. <a href="#para_73">73</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Cleaning fuel strainer (par. <a href="#para_72">72</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Cleaning muffler outlet requires freeing outlet of carbon deposits, -caked dirt, oil, etc., with blade of screwdriver, or other suitable -tool. Do not enlarge outlet size when cleaning.</p> - -<p>(8) Servicing air cleaner (par. <a href="#para_76">76</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Adjusting carburetor (par. <a href="#para_68">68</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_15" id="fig_15"></a> -<a name="i_073" id="i_073"></a> -<img src="images/i_073.jpg" width="600" height="453" alt="" /> -<p class="noindent"> -A—CYLINDER BRACKET SPACERS AND WASHERS<br /> -B—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME BOLT<br /> -C—CYLINDER UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET<br /> -D—SPARK CABLE CLIP<br /> -E—CYLINDER BRACKET BOLTS<br /> -F—OIL RETURN PIPE CONNECTION HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHERS -</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315711<br /> -<i>Figure 15—Disassembly for Head Gasket Replacement</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_41">41. REPLACEMENT OF HEAD GASKET (<a href="#fig_15">fig. 15</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Removal.</b> Refer to <a href="#i_073">figure 15</a>, illustrating necessary -parts and units to be removed to perform this operation.</p> - -<p>(1) Remove instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove gasoline tank and oil tank (par. <a href="#para_107">107</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove cylinder head bracket to frame lug bolt: this will free -clamp which secures front spark plug cable. Pay particular attention -to shim washers placed between cylinder head bracket and frame lug, as -these washers must be replaced when installing cylinder head.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove spark plug, or plugs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Remove cylinder head bolts, using head bolt wrench 41–W–1525. NOTE: -<i>On some 42 WLA models, plain washers (0.095–inch thick), in addition -to regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers, were used to prevent -cylinder head bolts from bottoming.</i></p> - -<p>(6) Perform carbon removal (head only). Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_42">42</a>.</p> - -<p><b>b. Installing Gasket and Head</b> (<a href="#fig_15">fig. 15</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Clean top of cylinder. Apply a light application of grease or oil -to both sides of gasket before locating on cylinder head. Place head on -cylinder.</p> - -<p>(2) Install head bolts, using heavy washers (also 0.095–inch thick -plain washers, if any were removed). If in doubt as to use of -0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers, measure depth -of bolt holes in cylinder head. Head having hole depth of 31/32 inch -must use the 0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers. -Head having bolt hole depth of 1<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch does not require the -0.095–inch thick washers.</p> - -<p>(3) Install cylinder frame bracket with the two long bolts, special -(spool‐shaped) spacers, and flat washers. The spacers go between -cylinder heads and frame bracket. A flat washer goes under the head of -each long cylinder bolt, above the bracket; some engines may have flat -washers between the spacers and the bracket.</p> - -<p>(4) Tighten head bolts evenly to ensure a tight cylinder head joint. -Use head bolt wrench 41–W–1525, first turning down bolts just snug, -then tightening each bolt <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> to ¼ turn at a time, until all are securely -tightened. If torque wrench is available, tighten head bolts to 60 -foot‐pounds minimum, 65 foot‐pounds maximum tension when engine is cold.</p> - -<h4 id="para_42">42. CARBON REMOVAL.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> At time cylinder head is removed for gasket replacement, -carbon must be removed from head only.</p> - -<h4 id="para_43">43. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT (<a href="#fig_16">fig. 16</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold.</b> Before loosening -valve spring covers, a light application of oil around top edge of each -cover will facilitate raising cover without damage to seal packing.</p> - -<p>(1) Loosen valve spring covers; use tappet and valve cover wrench -41–W–3617.</p> - -<p>(2) Before checking or adjusting tappet clearance, make sure valve is -seated and that tappet is at lowest position, by turning engine ahead -until like tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> adjusted) -in the other cylinder is at highest position (valve fully open). Inlet -valves are located nearest the carburetor manifold.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_16" id="fig_16"></a> -<img src="images/i_075.jpg" width="600" height="515" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310211<br /> -<i>Figure 16—Valve Tappet Adjustment</i></p></div> - -<p>(4) Loosen adjusting screw lock nut (“2,” <a href="#fig_16">fig. 16</a>) slightly before -turning adjusting screw (<a href="#fig_16">fig. 16</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Adjust inlet valve tappets to 0.004–inch minimum, and 0.005–inch -maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” <a href="#fig_16">fig. -16</a>). Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if -necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.</p> - -<p>(6) Adjust exhaust valve tappets to 0.006–inch minimum, and 0.007–inch -maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet. Use thickness gage to -determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after -lock nut has been securely tightened.</p> - -<p>(7) Before turning down valve spring covers, inspect paper gasket -between each cover and tappet guide. If broken or damaged, fit a new -gasket to prevent oil leak. Turn down and securely tighten valve spring -covers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span></p> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_17" id="fig_17"></a> -<img src="images/i_076.jpg" width="600" height="931" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315712<br /> -<i>Figure 17—Oil Pump Removed</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_44">44. REPLACEMENT OF OIL FEED PUMP (<a href="#fig_17">fig. 17</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Removal.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect oil tank feed pipe at oil tank. Install nipple cap on -tank nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect -oil feed pipe from oil pump nipple.</p> - -<p>(2) Oil pump is secured to engine gear case cover by one hexagon head -bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to provide wrench -clearance, and their location should be noted so they will be put back -where they belong when reinstalling pump. After removing screw and -nuts, remove pump. Unless a new pump gasket is available, take care -not to damage or break the old one, as this is a very special gasket -concerning both thickness and holes provided for oil channels. A -“homemade” gasket may put oiling system completely out of commission.</p> - -<p><b>b. Installing Oil Pump.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Clean surface of pump body mounting on gear case cover and see that -gasket is in good condition. Clean face of oil pump body.</p> - -<p>(2) Start pump on mounting studs, turn engine slowly and press lightly -against pump until driving dogs on end of cam gear shaft line up with -and drop into driving slot in oil pump rotor.</p> - -<p>(3) Insert hexagon‐head bolt and lock washer, and install the three -lock washers and nuts (two are long extension nuts) on pump mounting -studs. Make sure to replace the two extra long nuts on the studs from -which they were originally removed.</p> - -<p>(4) Tighten mounting bolt and three nuts securely.</p> - -<p>(5) Connect oil feed pipe to oil pump nipple. Remove nipple cap from -tank nipple and connect upper end of oil feed pipe to this nipple. -Tighten nipple nuts securely.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XII"><span class="small sansserif">Section XII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">ENGINE—REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Remove engine</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_45">45</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Install engine</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_46">46</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_45">45. REMOVE ENGINE (figs. <a href="#fig_18">18</a>, <a href="#fig_19">19</a>, and <a href="#fig_20">20</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> A study of figures 18 and 19 will provide a good picture of -the steps necessary for engine removal. Do not attempt any short cut -methods, as this would consume more time and possibly cause damage to -parts or unit assemblies.</p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect battery ground wire at frame lug connection on right -side of vehicle.</p> - -<p>(2) To disconnect brake front rod from bell crank (located on right -side of rear support rod), remove cotter pin and plain washer.</p> - -<p>(3) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut and remove footboard front -stud nut, then pull footboard outward to free right front end of safety -guard. Disconnect brake front rod at bell crank. Remove bolt which -secures front exhaust pipe clamp. Remove nut from rear support rod, -freeing stop light switch and rear end of side bar. Remove nut from -front support rod, freeing footboard and brake assembly for removal.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove the two rear mounting bolts and drop rear end of skid plate -(<a href="#fig_37">fig. 37</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Remove muffler (par. <a href="#para_81">81</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Disconnect oil pipe from tank and install nipple cap on oil tank -feed pipe nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. -Disconnect pipe from oil pump and remove oil pipe.</p> - -<p>(7) Disconnect spark control wire at circuit breaker lever, and free -control housing clamp at cylinder base.</p> - -<p>(8) Disconnect brake rear rod from bell crank.</p> - -<p>(9) Disconnect red wire and black wire from front end of relay; also -green wire from generator terminal.</p> - -<p>(10) Remove spark plugs.</p> - -<p>(11) Remove engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) bracket to -frame lug bolt: this also frees front spark plug cable clamp. Pay -particular attention to shim washers (if any) between cylinder head -bracket and frame lug; these will have to be installed in the original -position.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span></p> - -<p>(12) Remove lever bottom bolt, freeing gear shifter lever from shifter -rod.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_18" id="fig_18"></a> -<img src="images/i_079.jpg" width="600" height="479" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315713</p> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—SPARK CONTROL WIRE AND HOUSING</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—ENGINE SPROCKET, KEY, NUT AND FRONT DRIVE CHAIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—ENGINE SPROCKET SHAFT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—REAR SUPPORT ROD</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—INNER CHAIN GUARD</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—SPARK COIL REAR TERMINAL NUT, WASHER AND SCREW</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—OUTER CHAIN GUARD</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—AIR CLEANER HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING SCREWS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>N</b>—ENGINE LEFT REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLT CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>O</b>—REAR SUPPORT ROD EXTENDED NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>P</b>—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>Q</b>—FUEL PIPE AND STRAINER ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>R</b>—ENGINE LEFT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>S</b>—GEAR SHIFTER AND ROD ATTACHING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>T</b>—TANK, LOWER FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>U</b>—ENGINE SPROCKET NUT WRENCH</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315713B<br /> -<i>Figure 18—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Left Side</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_19" id="fig_19"></a> -<img src="images/i_080.jpg" width="600" height="460" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315714 -</p> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS AND NUTS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—SKID PLATE</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—STOP LIGHT SWITCH</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—REAR BRAKE ROD FRONT END</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME MOUNTING BOLT, SPACING WASHERS, SPARK CABLE CLIP AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—ENGINE RIGHT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—RELAY TERMINAL SCREWS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—SAFETY GUARD END</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—RIGHT FOOTBOARD, BRAKE PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—FRONT EXHAUST PIPE CLAMP, BOLT, WASHER AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—SPARK PLUGS AND GASKETS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>N</b>—REAR SUPPORT ROD, WASHER AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>O</b>—BRAKE ROD BELLCRANK</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>P</b>—ENGINE REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>Q</b>—OIL FEED PIPE</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>R</b>—VENT PIPE HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHER</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>S</b>—VENT PIPE</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>T</b>—OIL RETURN PIPE</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315714B<br /> -<i>Figure 19—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Right Side</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span></p> - -<p>(13) Close fuel tank valve. Remove gasoline pipe from tank nipple and -fuel filter nipple.</p> - -<p>(14) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever.</p> - -<p>(15) Disconnect air intake hose connection fitting from carburetor -(four screws) and leave attached to hose. Remove air cleaner from -mounting bracket (par. <a href="#para_78">78</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_20" id="fig_20"></a> -<img src="images/i_081.jpg" width="600" height="615" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310215<br /> -<i>Figure 20—Removing Engine</i></p></div> - -<p>(16) Remove front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(17) Remove engine sprocket (par. <a href="#para_65">65</a>).</p> - -<p>(18) Remove two screws and locks securing inner chain guard to -crankcase.</p> - -<p>(19) With <sup>13</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–inch deep socket wrench slipped over rear footboard -support rod stud, remove extended nut, and withdraw support rod from -right side of vehicle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span></p> - -<p>(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker to coil wire and shielding -ground from coil rear terminals, disconnect oil pressure signal light -wire from oil pressure switch terminal. It will be necessary to free -air cleaner mounting bracket and swing it outward, to gain access to -coil rear shielding ground terminal.</p> - -<p>(21) Engine mounting bolts are secured by cotter pins and castle nuts. -Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under generator; this -bolt cannot be removed without removing generator; merely push it up -far enough to clear frame engine lug when engine is removed from frame.</p> - -<p>(22) Lift and remove engine from right side of frame.</p> - -<h4 id="para_46">46. INSTALL ENGINE (figs. <a href="#fig_18">18</a>, <a href="#fig_19">19</a>, and <a href="#fig_20">20</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1">a.<b> Installing the engine is generally the reverse of the procedure -</b>followed in engine removal. Pay close attention to the following -procedure because checking and adjustment of controls and other items -is necessary to satisfactory vehicle operation.</p> - -<p>(1) Lift engine into frame from right side of vehicle. Make sure that -mounting bolt under generator is raised to clear frame engine lug.</p> - -<p>(2) Pass remaining three engine mounting bolts up from under side of -frame lugs through crankcase lugs: install plain washers and castle -nuts. Fit plain washer and castle nut on mounting bolt under generator. -Securely tighten all four castle nuts and lock with cotter pins.</p> - -<p>(3) Connect circuit breaker to coil wire. Connect wire to coil rear -terminal and ground shielding on coil case terminal.</p> - -<p>(4) Connect oil pressure switch wire to switch terminal.</p> - -<p>(5) Pass rear footboard support rod through frame lug from right side -of vehicle and install the extended <sup>13</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–inch nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Secure inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks -mounting inner chain guard to engine base. Drift edge of locks into -screw slots for security.</p> - -<p>(7) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain together. See that -engine shaft is clean, sprocket taper clean, and that key is in place -before tightening sprocket nut. Drift nut tight, using hammer on wrench.</p> - -<p>(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Connect hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers, -and nuts securing air cleaner to frame bracket; then install four -screws securing hose fitting to carburetor. NOTE: <i>If cleaner frame -bracket was loosened and shifted to gain access to coil rear terminals, -securely mount bracket before installing air cleaner assembly.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span></p> - -<p>(10) Connect throttle control wire to carburetor lever. Make sure that -throttle closes fully when right grip is turned outward; and that -throttle opens fully when grip is turned inward.</p> - -<p>(11) Install fuel pipe. Securely tighten union nuts on tank and fuel -strainer nipples. Open fuel supply valve and check connections for -leaks.</p> - -<p>(12) Connect gear shifter lever end to gear shifter rod by tightening -bolt and nut.</p> - -<p>(13) Attach engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to -frame lug, exercising care in installing required number of thin shims, -together with clamp for front spark plug cable, to fill space between -bracket and frame lug before tightening bolt nut. NOTE: <i>Frame lug must -be free from paint or grease to make clean “electrical” connection with -plated shims and mounting bracket for adequate radio bonding.</i></p> - -<p>(14) Before installing spark plugs, inspect for cleanliness and correct -electrode adjustment. Service if necessary (par. <a href="#para_83">83</a>). Replace gaskets -to ensure tight joints.</p> - -<p>(15) Connect red and black wires to relay: connect green wire to -generator terminal marked “SWITCH.” Refer to wiring diagram (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>).</p> - -<p>(16) Attach rear brake rod to bell crank. Install plain washer and -secure with cotter pin.</p> - -<p>(17) Connect spark control wire to circuit breaker lever and secure -control wire housing clamp under cylinder base nut. Make sure that -spark advances fully (lever inward) when control grip (left handle -bar) is turned inward, and that spark retards fully when control grip -is turned outward. Make needed adjustment at control wire and lever -connection.</p> - -<p>(18) Remove nipple cap from tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and -connect oil feed pipe, securely tightening union nuts at tank and oil -pump.</p> - -<p>(19) Position exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach rear hanger -frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure muffler front mounting bracket -bolt, but do not tighten nut until skid plate rear bracket is located -on this bolt.</p> - -<p>(20) Lift rear end of skid plate, secure rear mounting bracket and -muffler front mounting bracket with bolt, washer, and nut. Attach skid -plate left side bracket, tightening support rod nut and bracket bolt -and nut.</p> - -<p>(21) Install right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly. -Install stop light switch bracket on rear support rod before placing -lock washer and tightening nut. Attach front exhaust pipe clamp to -sidebar. Install lock washer, and tighten sidebar front<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> support rod -nut. Attach right end of front safety guard to sidebar with footboard -front support stud. Replace lock washer, and tighten nut. Also tighten -footboard rear support stud nut. Connect stop light switch control to -brake foot pedal.</p> - -<p>(22) Attach brake front rod to bell crank; fit plain washer and secure -with cotter pin.</p> - -<p>(23) Connect battery ground wire to frame lug on right side of vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Check instrument panel signal lights for normal indications, -and see that oil is in tank before starting engine.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XIII"><span class="small sansserif">Section XIII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">CLUTCH</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XIII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_47">47</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Maintenance and adjustment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_48">48</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Removal of disks</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_49">49</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Inspection of disks and springs</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_50">50</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Installation of disks</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_51">51</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of clutch release bearing</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_52">52</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_47">47. DESCRIPTION (<a href="#fig_21">fig. 21</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Clutch is of simple multiple‐dry‐disk type, having two steel -disks and three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within -disk pack to “cushion” clutch operation.</p> - -<h4 id="para_48">48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT (figs. <a href="#fig_22">22</a>, <a href="#fig_23">23</a>, <a href="#fig_25">24</a>, and <a href="#fig_25">25</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will -cause very little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life -of transmission gear shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full -disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely, -control linkage and spring tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension -before correcting control adjustment.</p> - -<p><b>b. Clutch Control Linkage</b> (<a href="#fig_22">fig. 22</a>). Operation of foot -pedal, control cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod -through hollow transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at -will. Correct adjustment to control cable and release lever must be -made before push rod adjustment is made.</p> - -<p><b>c. Clutch Control Adjustment</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_23">23</a>, <a href="#fig_24">24</a>, <a href="#fig_25">25</a>, and <a href="#fig_26">26</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) <span class="smcap">Adjusting Cable Length.</span> With clutch in fully disengaged -position (foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the -countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch. Should clutch -release lever strike sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement -is restricted, and clutch cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control -cable must be adjusted to obtain <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–inch clutch release lever and -sprocket cover stud and/or nut clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch -control cable, cable adjustable end must be removed from foot pedal -stud (figs. <a href="#fig_23">23</a> and <a href="#fig_24">24</a>). With foot pedal in forward (toe down) position, -remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable end. Release other end -of cable from notch in clutch release lever by pressing release lever -inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the foot pedal to rear -(heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off foot pedal stud. -Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to shorten -cable; turn to left (counter‐clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten -lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and -cotter pin, and install other end of cable in clutch release lever -notch.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_21" id="fig_21"></a> -<img src="images/i_086.jpg" width="600" height="194" alt="" /> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—CLUTCH HUB COMPLETE, WITH LINER, BEARING, STUDS, ETC.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—HUB DISK LINING.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—LINING RIVET (6 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—PIN (7 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—STUD.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—SPROCKET COMPLETE WITH DISK SPLINE RING.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—LINED DISKS (2 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—PLAIN STEEL DISKS (2 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—SPRUNG STEEL DISK WITH ONE LINING.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—RELEASING DISK (WITH PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW AND ADJUSTING SCREW).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—CLUTCH SPRINGS (10 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—STUD NUT LOCKING WASHER (3 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>N</b>—STUD NUT (3 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>O</b>—SPRING COMPRESSION COLLAR.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>P</b>—PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>Q</b>—ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>R</b>—RETAINING PLATE LOCK RING (3 USED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>S</b>—BEARING RETAINING PLATE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>T</b>—60 7/32–INCH STEEL BALLS.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>U</b>—BALL BEARING RETAINER.</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310218<br /> -<i>Figure 21—Clutch, Disassembled</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_22" id="fig_22"></a> -<img src="images/i_087.jpg" width="600" height="376" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310219<br /> -<i>Figure 22—Clutch Control Linkage</i></p></div> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_23" id="fig_23"></a> -<img src="images/i_087bot.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310220<br /> -<i>Figure 23—Clutch Lever and Stud Nut Clearance</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_24" id="fig_24"></a> -<img src="images/i_088.jpg" width="600" height="442" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310221<br /> -<i>Figure 24—Control Cable Length Adjustment</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_25" id="fig_25"></a> -<img src="images/i_088bot.jpg" width="600" height="331" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315715<br /> -<i>Figure 25—Clutch Adjustments</i></p></div> - -<p>(2) <span class="smcap">Adjusting Clearance of Clutch Release Lever and Push Rod</span> -(<a href="#fig_25">fig. 25</a>). With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance -correctly adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have -between <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–inch and ¼–inch free play at end where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> control cable engages -lever notch (<a href="#fig_25">fig. 25</a>). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch -without pressure on clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means -of push rod adjusting screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two -screws which secure inspection hole cover to chain guard (<a href="#fig_25">fig. 25</a>). If -clutch release lever has less than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–inch free play at end of cable, -loosen push rod adjusting screw lock nut and turn push rod adjusting -screw to the left (counter‐clockwise) to increase amount of free play. -If clutch release lever has more than ¼–inch free play at end of cable, -turn adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to decrease amount of -free play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is obtained. -Replace inspection hole cover. CAUTION: <i>If end of clutch release -lever has no free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when -fully engaged. If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when -disengaged; consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash, -and eventually become damaged.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_26" id="fig_26"></a> -<img src="images/i_089.jpg" width="600" height="365" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310223<br /> -<i>Figure 26—Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension</i></p></div> - -<p><b>d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension</b> (<a href="#fig_26">fig. 26</a>). If clutch -slips (does not hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation) -after controls have been correctly adjusted (step <b>c</b> (1) and (3) -above), spring tension must be increased. NOTE: <i>Do not increase spring -tension any more than actually required to make clutch hold.</i></p> - -<p>(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts.</p> - -<p>(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension. -Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one‐half turn at a -time, until clutch holds. Test clutch after each half‐turn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> of the -three adjusting nuts by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds -without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the -road.</p> - -<p>(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock -lips to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged -locks.</p> - -<p>(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the -distance from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of -outer (releasing) disk is 1–3/32 inches (<a href="#fig_27">fig. 27</a>). In any case, do -not tighten the three adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge -of shoulder of spring collar is closer than ⅞ inch to face of outer -(releasing) disk. If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully -disengaged.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_27" id="fig_27"></a> -<img src="images/i_090.jpg" width="600" height="424" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310224<br /> -<i>Figure 27—Measuring Distance Between Spring Collar and Disk</i></p></div> - -<p>(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring -tension adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be -replaced (par. <a href="#para_49">49</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front -chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_49">49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. <a href="#fig_28">28</a>, <a href="#fig_29">29</a>, and <a href="#fig_30">30</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or -replacing. Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> -without disturbing sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is -advisable to remove releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an -assembly because it is difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and -reassemble springs in this unit. If springs show signs of overheating, -and appear to be “set,” they should be removed, measured, and replaced -if necessary (par. <a href="#para_50">50</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_28" id="fig_28"></a> -<img src="images/i_091.jpg" width="600" height="461" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315716<br /> -<i>Figure 28—Removing Spring and Outer Disk Assembly</i></p></div> - -<p>(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat -washer, approximately <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–inch thick, 1¾–inch in diameter with a ⅜–inch -center hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace adjusting screw -lock nut just removed (<a href="#fig_28">fig. 28</a>). Tighten adjusting screw lock nut -against large washer until the three clutch spring adjusting nuts are -free. Bend nut lock down, remove the three adjusting nuts, and withdraw -releasing (outer) disk and spring assembly as one unit. Remaining lined -and plain steel disks can now be removed from sprocket and clutch shell -unit without further disassembly (<a href="#fig_30">fig. 30</a>). NOTE: <i>At time lined and -plain disks are removed from shell, observe relative position of each -disk in order of correct assembly.</i></p> - -<h4 id="para_50">50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Worn Disk Liners.</b> When disk liners are worn down flush -(or nearly flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be -replaced.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_29" id="fig_29"></a> -<img src="images/i_092.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315717<br /> -<i>Figure 29—Outer Assembly Removed, Exposing Clutch Disks</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_30" id="fig_30"></a> -<img src="images/i_092bot.jpg" width="600" height="509" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315718<br /> -<i>Figure 30—Clutch Disks, Removed</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span></p> - -<p><b>b. Loose Liner Rivets.</b> If disk liner rivets are loose, -replace disk and liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order.</p> - -<p><b>c. Oil‐soaked Disk Liners.</b> If lined disks are not badly -worn, but are oil‐soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and -dry with air or heat.</p> - -<p><b>d. Shrunken or Weak Springs.</b> If clutch has been badly -overheated as a result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or -weakened condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened -springs are indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been -tightened to make the clutch hold until the distance between spring -collar and releasing (outer) disk is ⅞ inch. If shrunken or weak -springs are suspected, remove them for inspection.</p> - -<p>(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut, -freeing spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer) -disk assembly.</p> - -<p>(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs -is approximately 1½ inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch). -Old springs found to be shrunk <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> inch (total free length of spring -is 1⅜ inch or less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: <i>Before -replacing springs, select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32 -inch to make up the assembly.</i></p> - -<p>(3) <span class="smcap">Assembling Releasing Disk, Springs, and Spring Collar.</span> -Place the 10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each -of the 10 stud holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends -of springs, locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the -springs. Place the large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten -adjusting screw nut, and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over -and observe alinement of springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert a -⅜–inch rod through holes to aline springs. Tighten down adjusting screw -nut; assembly is now ready for complete clutch assembly.</p> - -<h4 id="para_51">51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. <a href="#fig_30">30</a>, <a href="#fig_29">29</a>, and <a href="#fig_28">28</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1" id="para_51a"><b>a</b>. It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a -lined disk. Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices -are staggered on splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined -on one side) is the last of the pack, its lined side facing the steel -disk. Before installing disks, see that bearing retaining plate lock -rings (“R,” <a href="#fig_21">fig. 21</a>) are in place on the short studs, and are tight -against the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the clutch.</p> - -<p>(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first.</p> - -<p>(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the -clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward.</p> - -<p>(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side -facing outward.</p> - -<p>(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on -clutch hub studs.</p> - -<p>(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded‐end, clutch hub -studs are not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted -that the three holes (keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not -spaced equidistantly. Therefore, when installing releasing disk and -spring assembly on clutch hub studs, the three threaded studs and holes -in spring collar must be alined. Install assembly on studs, replace -the three nut locks, replace the three adjusting nuts, and tighten all -three evenly until the distance between shoulder of spring collar and -face of releasing disk is 1–1/32 inch (<a href="#fig_27">fig. 27</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock -nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod -adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been -installed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_31" id="fig_31"></a> -<img src="images/i_094.jpg" width="600" height="538" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315719<br /> -<i>Figure 31—Removing Clutch Releasing Bearing Assembly</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span></p> - -<p>(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct -according to paragraph <a href="#para_48">48.</a></p> - -<h4 id="para_52">52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (<a href="#fig_31">fig. 31</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push -rod assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing.</b> Engage clutch fully -(foot pedal toe down) and disengage clutch control cable end from -slotted end of clutch release lever.</p> - -<p>(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear -chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to -transmission countershaft sprocket cover.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove filler plug.</p> - -<p>(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver.</p> - -<p>(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be -necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release -bearing is exposed.</p> - -<p>(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from -transmission shaft.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into -transmission shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is -clean and well greased.</p> - -<p>(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts.</p> - -<p>(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain -oiler pipe clamp to sprocket cover.</p> - -<p>(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release -lever.</p> - -<p>(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XIV"><span class="small sansserif">Section XIV</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">TRANSMISSION</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XIV"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_53">53</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Control linkage</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_54">54</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of foot starter crank</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_55">55</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of starter crank spring</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_56">56</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Remove transmission</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_57">57</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Install transmission</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_58">58</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_53">53. DESCRIPTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Transmission has three speeds: low, second, and high, and -is of the constant‐mesh, non‐selective type. High gear is direct -drive. Since “dogs” on gear shifter clutches are used to engage -transmission gears, it is of great importance that vehicle clutch is -correctly adjusted. Clutch must be fully disengaged when shifting -gears, to prevent clashing of gears, and possible damage to the shifter -clutch “dogs” and transmission gears. It is also important that gear -shifter control linkage be kept in correct adjustment to ensure full -engagement of shifter clutch driving dogs in all positions, thus -preventing possible damage caused by dogs jumping out of engagement -under driving load. Close fitting and needle roller bearings, within -the transmission, necessitate use of engine oil (seasonal grade) in -transmission case for adequate lubrication.</p> - -<h4 id="para_54">54. CONTROL LINKAGE (<a href="#fig_32">fig. 32</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Transmission Shifted to Adjust Front Drive Chain.</b> The -transmission is located to receive power from front (engine) drive -chain and transmit power through rear drive chain to rear wheel, and -is movable on its mounting for adjustment of the front (engine) drive -chain. When front (engine) drive chain is adjusted, transmission gear -shifter control linkage is affected. Therefore, after each front drive -chain adjustment, gear shifter control linkage must be checked, and, if -necessary, correctly adjusted to ensure proper gear shifting with full -engagement of the gear shifter clutch driving “dogs” as well as prevent -transmission from jumping out of gear under load.</p> - -<p><b>b. Checking Gear Shifter Control Linkage.</b> Before making -adjustment to gear shifter control linkage, make the following checks: -See that all linkage points from transmission gear shifter lever to -gear shifter hand lever are well oiled and free‐working. Check hand -lever pivot bolt nut for tightness. Observe whether there is binding -or interference with shifter rod at any point in the shifting range; -this sometimes results from a bent snifter rod. Check whether<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> or not -shifter rod is correctly adjusted so that when hand lever is moved to -any gear position in tank shifter guide, transmission lever moves to -the proper position to fully engage shifter clutch dogs and shifter cam -spring plunger in cam‐locating notch (inside transmission).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_32" id="fig_32"></a> -<img src="images/i_097.jpg" width="600" height="599" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310229<br /> -<i>Figure 32—Adjusting Gear Shifter Rod</i></p></div> - -<p><b>c. Adjusting Gear Shifter Control Linkage</b> (<a href="#fig_32">fig. 32</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Set hand lever in “N” (neutral) position in shifter guide.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove nut and bolt to disconnect shifter rod from hand lever.</p> - -<p>(3) With slight backward and forward movement of shifter rod, carefully -“feel” transmission lever into exact position where shifter cam spring -plunger (inside transmission) seats fully in cam‐locating notch.</p> - -<p>(4) Next, see that hand lever is in exact “N” (neutral) position in -tank shifter guide.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Readjust length of shifter rod by loosening rod end lock nut, and -turning rod end (onto or off rod as necessary) until its bolt hole -lines up with bolt hole in hand lever.</p> - -<p>(6) Replace bolt and tighten nut.</p> - -<p>(7) <span class="smcap">Check Adjustment.</span> It is advisable to shift hand lever -into “L” (low) and “S” (second) gear positions and check shifter rod -adjustment to be sure of having best all‐round adjustment.</p> - -<p>(8) When shifter clutches become worn or damaged to the extent of -jumping out of engagement under driving load, even though shifter -control linkage is correctly adjusted, transmission must be removed and -referred to higher authority for service.</p> - -<h4 id="para_55">55. REPLACEMENT OF FOOT STARTER CRANK.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove starter crank clamp bolt nut and remove bolt from crank.</p> - -<p>(2) Pull starter crank off squared shaft.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> In installing foot starter crank, notch (for -clamp‐bolt clearance) must be in upward position in squared shaft to -put return spring tension on crank.</p> - -<p>(1) Use a <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub>–inch, open‐end wrench and turn square shaft -counterclockwise until bolt slot is upward. Hold shaft in this position -and press starter crank onto shaft until clamping bolt can be inserted.</p> - -<p>(2) Insert clamp bolt with bolt head toward rear wheel (crank in upward -position) to provide clearance when starter crank is operated.</p> - -<p>(3) Fit lock washer and nut and tighten nut securely.</p> - -<h4 id="para_56">56. REPLACEMENT OF STARTER CRANK SPRING (<a href="#fig_33">fig. 33</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Starter crank spring fits rather snugly behind rear edge of -countershaft sprocket cover; however, it can be removed and installed -without removing sprocket cover.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. <a href="#para_55">55</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) With the blade of a screwdriver or with pliers, pry hooked end of -spring off stud. NOTE: <i>If spring is broken, this operation will not -be necessary.</i> Pull on spring end, at same time prying spring free of -sprocket cover so as to pull spring off square shaft.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Turn squared shaft so that clamp bolt notch is in bottom position. -Engage square hole in spring on shaft with the hooked spring end to -rear, in line with starter spring stud. Work spring onto<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> shaft, prying -it to rear to clear sprocket cover. Press all the way on squared shaft.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_33" id="fig_33"></a> -<img src="images/i_099.jpg" width="600" height="758" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315720<br /> -<i>Figure 33—Removing Starter Crank Spring</i></p></div> - - -<p>(2) Hook end of spring in place on spring stud.</p> - -<p>(3) Install foot starter crank (par. <a href="#para_55">55</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_57">57. REMOVE TRANSMISSION (figs. <a href="#fig_34">34</a> and <a href="#fig_35">35</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Transmission and clutch are assembled in one unit and -must be removed and installed together. To make sure trouble is in -transmission,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a><br /><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> check clutch adjustment (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>) and transmission -control linkage (par. <a href="#para_54">54</a>) before replacing a faulty unit.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_34" id="fig_34"></a> -<img src="images/i_100.jpg" width="600" height="610" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315721 -</p> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—TOOL BOX AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—BATTERY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—BATTERY BOX REAR MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, FITTINGS AND NUTS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—BATTERY BOX ASSEMBLY AND COVER</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—BATTERY BOX FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTING SCREW</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—TRANSMISSION MOUNTING STUD NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—REAR CHAIN OILER PIPE</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—REAR CHAIN GUARD FRONT MOUNTING BOLT AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUTS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—REAR BRAKE ROD ASSEMBLY, WASHER AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>N</b>—REAR CHAIN GUARD</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>O</b>—REAR BRAKE CLEVIS PIN, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315721B<br /> -<i>Figure 34—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Right Side</i></p></div> - - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Drop rear end of skid plate (par. <a href="#para_111">111</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove oil bath air cleaner and mounting bracket (par. <a href="#para_80">80</a>). Lower -bracket bolt also secures clutch cable tube to frame tube bracket on -left side.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. <a href="#para_65">65</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Remove the two mounting screws and locks in engine case to free -inner front chain guard.</p> - -<p>(6) Remove tool box from mounting bracket (par. <a href="#para_106">106</a>). Remove bracket -from frame.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove rear brake rod (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) Remove rear drive chain (par. <a href="#para_63">63</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Remove rear drive chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>). Remove rear chain oiler -pipe after disconnecting at oil pump.</p> - -<p>(10) Remove battery box (par. <a href="#para_105">105</a>).</p> - -<p>(11) Remove nut, washer, and bolt securing clutch tube assembly bracket -to frame bracket on right side of vehicle. Disengage clutch operating -cable end from end of clutch release lever and remove cable and tube -assembly.</p> - -<p>(12) Remove gear shifter rod by disconnecting at hand shifter lever and -at transmission gear shifter lever.</p> - -<p>(13) Remove the three transmission mounting stud nuts, then remove lock -washers and large plain washers (located under frame bracket), and lift -transmission sufficiently to permit removal of front chain adjusting -screw.</p> - -<p>(14) Loosen upper U‐bolts on ignition coil mounting, then remove the -lower U‐bolt nuts and shift coil on frame tube as far as possible -toward the front.</p> - -<p>(15) Remove transmission and clutch assembly from vehicle by lifting -complete unit sufficiently to free mounting studs from frame bracket; -then rotate top of transmission backward about ¼ turn (<a href="#fig_34">fig. 34</a>) and -remove unit from left side of frame (<a href="#fig_35">fig. 35</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_58">58. INSTALL TRANSMISSION (figs. <a href="#fig_34">34</a> and <a href="#fig_35">35</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Install from Left Side.</b> Working from left side of -frame, tilt top of transmission backward, and as unit passes into -position, rotate top forward, until unit is squarely in position and -mounting studs pass through slots in frame mounting bracket.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Shift ignition coil mounting back into correct position and tighten -U‐bolt nuts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_35" id="fig_35"></a> -<img src="images/i_102.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315722<br /> -<i>Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left Side of Vehicle</i></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—ENGINE SPROCKET, NUT, KEY AND FRONT CHAIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—INNER CHAIN GUARD</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—OUTER CHAIN GUARD</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—SPARK COIL LOWER MOUNTING U‐BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—CLUTCH CABLE AND HOUSING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—GEAR SHIFTER ROD ASSEMBLY WITH ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS, PIN AND NUT</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315722B<br /> -<i>Legend for Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal -from Left Side of Vehicle</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Install front chain adjusting screw. Lift transmission to engage -screw in frame notch.</p> - -<p>(3) Install large plain washers, lock washers, and nuts on the three -transmission mounting studs. Do not tighten.</p> - -<p>(4) Install gear shifter rod by connecting to hand shifter lever and -transmission gear shifter lever.</p> - -<p>(5) Install clutch operating cable and tube assembly. Connect cable -end to clutch release lever. Position tube assembly bracket to frame -bracket and install bolt, washer, and nut to hold in place.</p> - -<p>(6) Install battery box (par. <a href="#para_105">105</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Install rear drive chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) Install rear drive chain (par. <a href="#para_63">63</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Install rear brake rod (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p>(10) Install tool box bracket and tool box (par. <a href="#para_106">106</a>).</p> - -<p>(11) Secure inner front chain guard to engine base by installing screw -locks and screws. After screws are tightened, drift edge of each lock -into screw slot for security.</p> - -<p>(12) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. <a href="#para_65">65</a>).</p> - -<p>(13) If necessary, adjust front drive chain (par. <a href="#para_59">59</a>).</p> - -<p>(14) Securely tighten transmission mounting stud nuts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p> - -<p>(15) Install outer front chain guard cover (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>). Connect rear -chain oiler pipe to oil pump.</p> - -<p>(16) Install air cleaner and mounting bracket, air hose, and -connections (par. <a href="#para_79">79</a>).</p> - -<p>(17) Lift skid plate into position and install two mounting bolts, lock -washers, and nuts.</p> - -<p>(18) Check gear shifter control, and, if necessary, adjust linkage -(par. <a href="#para_54">54</a>).</p> - -<p>(19) Check rear drive chain adjustment and adjust if necessary (par. -<a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p>(20) Check rear brake adjustment. If necessary, adjust rear brake -linkage (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p>(21) Check clutch controls and adjust if necessary (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>).</p> - -<p>(22) Before operating vehicle, see that transmission oil level is up to -filler opening (vehicle standing upright).</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XV"><span class="small sansserif">Section XV</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">CHAINS AND SPROCKETS</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XV"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Adjust front chain</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_59">59</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Adjust rear chain and aline rear wheel</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_60">60</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Chain oilers</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_61">61</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of front chain</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_62">62</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of rear chain</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_63">63</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Chain repair tool</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_64">64</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of engine sprocket</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_65">65</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of countershaft sprocket</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_66">66</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_59">59. ADJUST FRONT CHAIN (figs. <a href="#fig_36">36</a>, <a href="#fig_37">37</a>, and <a href="#fig_38">38</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for -correct lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par. -<a href="#para_61">61</a>).</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making -tight and loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and -chain rotated to position of least slack at the time adjustment is made.</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> A correctly adjusted front chain has ½–inch, or slightly -more, free up‐and‐down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection -hole. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain -must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action -and/or strike the chain guard.</p> - -<p><b>d.</b> Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on -its mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control -linkage, clutch control linkage, and rear chain.</p> - -<p><b>e. How to Adjust Front Chain.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover -from front outer chain guard, exposing chain (<a href="#fig_36">fig. 36</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of -least slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with -finger. Use a free up‐and‐down motion of the finger to make this test.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Loosen the three transmission mounting stud nuts underneath -transmission mounting base. (It is not necessary to drop skid plate -to reach stud nuts (<a href="#fig_37">fig. 37</a>).) Transmission can now be shifted on its -mounting base by means of adjusting screw, head of which protrudes -through notch of frame fitting, located at rear of transmission (<a href="#fig_38">fig. -38</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_36" id="fig_36"></a> -<img src="images/i_106.jpg" width="600" height="636" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310233<br /> -<i>Figure 36—Front Chain Inspection Hole Cover Removed</i></p></div> - -<p>(4) Turn adjusting screw clockwise (to the right) to move transmission -backward and tighten front chain. Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise -(to the left) to move transmission forward and loosen front chain.</p> - -<p>(5) After moving transmission by means of adjusting screw, check front -chain adjustment; then securely tighten the three transmission mounting -stud nuts and again check chain adjustment, as tightening stud nuts -sometimes changes chain adjustment.</p> - -<p>(6) After front chain adjustment has been made, securely tighten the -three transmission mounting stud nuts.</p> - -<p>(7) Install front chain inspection hole cover and tighten screws.</p> - -<p>(8) Check shifter lever control linkage adjustment (par. <a href="#para_54">54</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span></p> - -<p>(9) Check clutch control linkage adjustment (par. <a href="#para_48">48</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_37" id="fig_37"></a> -<img src="images/i_107.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310234<br /> -<i>Figure 37—Skid Plate Dropped to Show Location of Transmission -Mounting Nuts</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_38" id="fig_38"></a> -<img src="images/i_107bot.jpg" width="600" height="338" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310235<br /> -<i>Figure 38—Transmission Mounting Nuts and Chain Adjusting Screw</i></p></div> - - -<h4 id="para_60">60. ADJUST REAR CHAIN AND ALINE REAR WHEEL (<a href="#fig_39">fig. 39</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> In moving transmission backward on its mounting to tighten -front chain, the rear chain will be loosened. Rear chain must then -be adjusted by moving rear wheel backward. When rear wheel is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> moved -either forward or backward, adjustment of the rear wheel brake is -affected.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> When checking rear chain for slack midway between the -sprockets, turn wheel and rotate chain to position of least slack. Use -free up‐and‐down movement of finger to lift chain and depress it to -determine tightest position.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_39" id="fig_39"></a> -<img src="images/i_108.jpg" width="600" height="590" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310236<br /> -<i>Figure 39—Brake Sleeve Nut</i></p></div> - -<p><b>c.</b> At position of least slack, a correctly adjusted rear -chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up‐and‐down movement midway -between sprockets. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest -point). Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky -operation and/or strike the chain guard or other chassis parts.</p> - -<p><b>d.</b> At the time rear chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for -correct lubrication and if necessary, adjust rear chain oiler (par. <a href="#para_61">61</a>).</p> - -<p><b>e.</b> Rear chain adjustment and rear wheel alinement are both made -by means of the rear wheel adjusting screws. Therefore, adjustment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> of -either the chain or the wheel alinement can affect adjustment of the -other, making it necessary to consider both adjustments at the same -time.</p> - -<p>(1) Remove rear axle nut and lock washer (right side of vehicle).</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen brake sleeve nut enough to allow brake assembly to slide -backward or forward in frame mounting (<a href="#fig_39">fig. 39</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Loosen the two (right and left side) rear wheel adjusting screw -lock nuts.</p> - -<p>(4) Turn wheel adjusting screws clockwise (to right) to move wheel and -sprocket backward. This tightens chain. NOTE: <i>If chain is too tight, -turn wheel adjusting screws counterclockwise (to left) so that wheel -can be shifted forward. This will loosen chain.</i> Always turn the two -wheel adjusting screws an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel -alined.</p> - -<p>(5) Check correct alinement of wheel by noting that tire (not tire -rim) runs approximately midway between lower rear frame tubes at the -point where tubes join transmission mounting. It is desirable to have -tire run slightly closer (not more than <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> in.) to right than to -left side lower tube. A further check of alinement is observing that -rear sprocket runs centrally in chain. CAUTION: <i>If rear wheel is not -correctly alined, vehicle steering will be affected, and sprockets will -wear excessively on one side.</i></p> - -<p>(6) With adjustment of chain and wheel alinement completed, securely -tighten wheel adjusting screw lock nuts, and brake sleeve nut: replace -axle lock washer and nut, tightening nut.</p> - -<p>(7) Recheck adjustment of chain as tightening brake sleeve nut and axle -nut sometimes changes the chain adjustment.</p> - -<p>(8) After tightening rear chain, rear brake may be found too tight. -Check and correct brake adjustment (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_61">61. CHAIN OILERS (<a href="#fig_40">fig. 40</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Both front and rear chains are automatically lubricated by -engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional -readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied operating -conditions. Chains under most operating conditions require a very small -amount of oil; therefore, chain oilers require very fine adjustment to -supply just enough oil without waste.</p> - -<p id="para_61b"><b>b.</b> When adjusting chain oilers, it is advisable to add or remove -only one thin washer at a time and inspect chain again after vehicle -has run approximately 100 miles, to determine whether or not further -adjustment is necessary.</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> If inspection of front chain through inspection hole reveals -that chain is not getting enough oil, adjust front chain oiler as -follows:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Add thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of front chain oiler -adjusting screw (<a href="#fig_40">fig. 40</a>). Do not remove any washers already under head -of screw.</p> - -<p>(2) To check results, refer to step <a href="#para_61b"><b>b</b></a> above.</p> - -<p><b>d.</b> Evidence of too much oil on front chain requires cutting down -on chain oiler.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_40" id="fig_40"></a> -<img src="images/i_110.jpg" width="600" height="609" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310237<br /> -<i>Figure 40—Chain Oilers</i></p></div> - -<p>(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under -head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (<a href="#fig_40">fig. 40</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) To check results, refer to step <a href="#para_61b"><b>b</b></a> above.</p> - -<p><b>e.</b> If inspection reveals that rear chain is not getting enough -oil, and that oil pipe end is open, is not bent, and is directed on -chain; then the rear chain oiler must be adjusted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Adjust oiler by adding thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of -rear chain oiler adjusting screw (<a href="#fig_40">fig. 40</a>). Do not remove any washers -already under head of screw.</p> - -<p>(2) To check results, refer to step <a href="#para_61b"><b>b</b></a> above.</p> - -<p><b>f.</b> Evidence of too much oil on rear chain (supplied by oiler) -requires cutting down on chain oiler.</p> - -<p>(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under -head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (<a href="#fig_40">fig. 40</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) To check results, refer to step <a href="#para_61b"><b>b</b></a> above.</p> - -<p><b>g.</b> At 1000–mile intervals, loosen both front and rear chain -oiler adjusting screws (<a href="#fig_40">fig. 40</a>) two turns each. Do not remove screws. -Start and idle engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not -force. This operation serves to flush oiler control valves and rear -chain oiler pipe.</p> - - -<h4 id="para_62">62. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT CHAIN.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> A new or original duplex front chain is endless, not provided -with connecting link, and engine sprocket must be removed in order to -remove or replace chain.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove engine sprocket (par. <a href="#para_65">65</a>). Chain can now be lifted off -clutch sprocket.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b> When installing a new front chain and/or -sprocket, it may be necessary to shift transmission ahead in order to -get chain on (par. <a href="#para_59">59</a> e).</p> - -<p>(1) Clean engine shaft taper and sprocket hole.</p> - -<p>(2) Place chain on clutch sprocket teeth and install sprocket (par. <a href="#para_65">65</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Check chain adjustment (par. <a href="#para_59">59</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Install outer front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_63">63. REPLACEMENT OF REAR CHAIN (<a href="#fig_41">fig. 41</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b> Support vehicle on rear stand. With -transmission in “N” (neutral) position, turn rear wheel until chain -connecting link is located on rear sprocket teeth, about straight back -from axle.</p> - -<p>(1) Using pliers, lift split end of connecting link spring clip out of -link pin notch, taking care not to damage spring clip. Remove spring -clip from other link pin notch.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Pull off link side plate and push link out of chain ends. Replace -connecting link and spring clip in one end of chain to prevent its loss.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_41" id="fig_41"></a> -<img src="images/i_112.jpg" width="600" height="437" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310238<br /> -<i>Figure 41—Rear Drive Chain and Connecting Link</i></p></div> - -<p>(3) Pull on lower half of chain, guiding upper part while it rotates -around countershaft sprocket, until removed. If a new rear chain is to -be installed, one end can be linked to the upper half end of old chain -and can be pulled onto countershaft sprocket as old chain is removed.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> When installing a new rear chain and/or -countershaft sprocket, it may be necessary to set rear wheel ahead in -order to get chain on (par. <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Start end of chain over countershaft sprocket teeth, using starter -crank to turn sprocket. After chain end has reached front half of -sprocket, it will be necessary to guide end under sprocket and out of -sprocket cover. Center chain so that ends engage rear sprocket teeth, -back of the axle.</p> - -<p>(2) Install connecting link, side plate and spring clip. See that open -end of spring clip is to the rear with regard to chain travel (like the -end of an arrow). If original spring clip is bent or damaged, use a new -one.</p> - -<p>(3) Adjust rear chain (par. <a href="#para_60">60</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Check rear brake adjustment (par. <a href="#para_96">96</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_64">64. CHAIN REPAIR TOOL (fig 42).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Damaged or broken chain links can be replaced with connecting -(repair) links after bad links have been removed. To remove damaged -or broken link, push out chain side plate pins with the chain repair -tool (41–T–3320). Front chain is a double row of duplex chain; rear -chain is a single row chain. The chain tool furnished in the tool kit -is designed to accommodate both. To put a connecting link in the front -chain, it will be necessary to remove front chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_42" id="fig_42"></a> -<img src="images/i_113.jpg" width="600" height="259" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310239<br /> -<i>Figure 42—Chain Repair Tool in Use</i></p></div> - -<p><b>b.</b> When connecting (repair) links have been fitted to chain, -make sure that spring clips are correctly and securely locked on link -pin ends.</p> - -<h4 id="para_65">65. REPLACEMENT OF ENGINE SPROCKET.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove engine sprocket nut (right‐hand thread). It will be -necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.</p> - -<p>(3) Give flat surface of engine sprocket, near outer edge, a light -but sharp rap with a hammer, being careful not to strike and damage -sprocket teeth. Take care not to lose sprocket shaft key.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> If new sprocket is being installed, it may -be necessary to shift transmission forward to get chain to fit on -sprockets (par. <a href="#para_59">59</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Thoroughly clean engine shaft taper and see that key is in place. -Clean sprocket taper hole, fit front chain on sprocket teeth, and -rotate chain until keyway in sprocket lines up with key in engine -shaft. Slip sprocket onto engine shaft, install nut, and tighten<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span> -securely. Strike wrench with a hammer to make sure sprocket nut is very -tight.</p> - -<p>(2) Install front outer chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_66">66. REPLACEMENT OF COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. <a href="#para_55">55</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove starter crank spring (par. <a href="#para_56">56</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove countershaft sprocket cover (par. <a href="#para_52">52</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Bend back extension of sprocket nut lock.</p> - -<p>(5) Remove sprocket retaining nut. It will be necessary to strike -wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Give sprocket a light but sharp rap with a hammer near outer edge, -being careful not to strike the sprocket teeth, and remove sprocket -from shaft taper. Do not lose the two sprocket shaft keys.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Clean shaft taper and taper hole in countershaft sprocket. Install -the two keys.</p> - -<p>(2) Install sprocket on shaft. Place rear chain on sprocket before -installing sprocket cover.</p> - -<p>(3) Examine nut lock and, if badly damaged, use a new one.</p> - -<p>(4) Install sprocket retaining nut. Tighten by striking wrench with a -hammer. NOTE: <i>This nut must be tight.</i> Bend up extension of nut lock -against side of nut.</p> - -<p>(5) It will be easier to install starter crank spring at this step to -avoid interference with sprocket cover.</p> - -<p>(6) Install sprocket cover.</p> - -<p>(7) Install starter crank.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XVI"><span class="small sansserif">Section XVI</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">FUEL SYSTEM</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XVI"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>General</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_67">67</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor adjustment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_68">68</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Throttle control wire adjustment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_69">69</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor removal</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_70">70</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor installation</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_71">71</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fuel strainer</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_72">72</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carburetor bowl cleaning</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_73">73</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Fuel pipe</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_74">74</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_67">67. GENERAL.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Carburetor is of the side‐outlet, plain‐tube type with a -fixed venturi. Fuel feed is by gravity from tank above. Carburetor -has two manual controls: the throttle, which is operated by the right -handle bar grip, and the choke, which is operated by a lever on the -carburetor itself. The high speed fuel supply is governed by a fixed -(non‐adjustable) jet. The idling to medium speed (30 mph) fuel supply -is governed by an adjustable (low speed) needle valve located on rear -side of carburetor body.</p> - -<h4 id="para_68">68. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT (<a href="#fig_43">fig. 43</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Before attempting to adjust carburetor to correct faulty -engine performance, attention should be given other items which have -a direct bearing on and can affect carburetor adjustment as well as -engine performance.</p> - -<p>(1) Inspect fuel tank cap and make sure air vent is not plugged.</p> - -<p>(2) See that throttle control adjustment is correct (par. <a href="#para_69">69</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) See that spark control adjustment is correct (par. <a href="#para_88">88</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Drain and flush carburetor bowl (par. <a href="#para_73">73</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Drain and flush fuel strainer (par. <a href="#para_72">72</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Inspect air cleaner to see that passage of air through cleaner -is not restricted by oil level being too high in oil cup, or by an -excessive accumulation of dirt in filter elements (par. <a href="#para_76">76</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Check manifold packing nuts and carburetor mounting screws for -tightness.</p> - -<p>(8) See that spark plugs are clean and that gaps are adjusted between -0.025 inch to 0.030 inch. If condition of spark plugs is questionable, -install new ones.</p> - -<p>(9) Check adjustment of valve tappets (par. <a href="#para_43">43</a>).</p> - -<p>(10) Check compression of both cylinders (par. <a href="#para_29b">29 b</a>.) (1)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span></p> - -<p>(11) Check condition and adjustment of circuit breaker points (par. <a href="#para_84">84</a>).</p> - -<p>(12) Check ignition to battery wiring connections (diagram <a href="#fig_48">fig. 48</a>).</p> - -<p>(13) See that battery is not entirely discharged by turning on lights -(tactical situation permitting) and observing brilliancy.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> A carburetor, once correctly adjusted, should require little, -if any, readjusting. At most, it should not be necessary to adjust the -low speed needle more than one or two notches either way to correct -mixture to meet changes in weather conditions.</p> - -<p><b>c. Low Speed Adjusting Needle</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_43">43</a> and <a href="#fig_44">44</a>). -Adjustment of this needle valve controls only idling and low speed -(up to approximately 30 mph) fuel mixture. Turn needle valve down (to -right) to make mixture leaner. Back out (to left) needle valve to make -mixture richer. Needle valve is held in any desired position by a -spring‐and‐ball plunger which engages notches in the needle adjusting -screw.</p> - -<p><b>d. Complete Readjustment of Carburetor.</b> A carburetor that -is badly out of adjustment, and/or a new carburetor just installed, -must be adjusted as follows:</p> - -<p>(1) Turn the low speed needle valve all the way down (to right).</p> - -<p>(2) Back needle valve out (to left) about three full turns. With needle -valve in this position, engine will start, but mixture will probably be -too rich.</p> - -<p>(3) Start engine as follows: After choke lever has been moved to normal -open running position and engine is normally hot, correct adjustment -of needle valve by turning needle valve down (to right) one notch at a -time until mixture becomes so lean that engine misses, and is inclined -to stop: then back out (to left) needle valve 5 to 10 notches, or until -engine fires regularly with spark advanced and throttle closed (or as -nearly closed as it can be set and still have engine running at idling -speed).</p> - -<p>(4) Adjust throttle lever stop screw (<a href="#fig_43">fig. 43</a>) as necessary to make -engine idle at proper speed with throttle in fully closed position. -Turning stop screw to the right makes engine idle faster. Turning stop -screw to the left makes engine idle slower. Do not idle engine at the -slowest possible speed, because an extremely slow idling adjustment -causes hard engine starting. Changing idling speed with throttle stop -screw is likely to change the low speed fuel mixture to some extent: -therefore, it will be necessary to again check and correct the low -speed needle valve adjustment (step (3) above).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Engine starting and all‐round carburetion will be improved with low -speed fuel adjustment slightly rich, rather than extremely lean.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_43" id="fig_43"></a> -<img src="images/i_117.jpg" width="600" height="435" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310240<br /> -<i>Figure 43—Throttle in Fully Closed Position</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_44" id="fig_44"></a> -<img src="images/i_117bot.jpg" width="600" height="484" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310241<br /> -<i>Figure 44—Throttle in Fully Open Position</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_69">69. THROTTLE CONTROL WIRE ADJUSTMENT (figs. <a href="#fig_43">43</a> and <a href="#fig_44">44</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Carburetor throttle is opened and closed by means of the -right handle bar grip, operating a control wire (within a housing) -which connects to the throttle lever. Adjustment for full opening and -closing of the throttle to correspond with full inward and outward -motion of the handle bar grip is made at the junction of the control -wire end and the throttle lever connection.</p> - -<p><b>b. Adjust Fully Closed Throttle</b> (<a href="#fig_43">fig. 43</a>). See that -there is about 1 inch distance between end of control wire housing and -throttle lever when in fully closed position, so that housing end does -not interfere with forward movement of throttle lever. If adjustment of -control wire housing is necessary, refer to paragraph <a href="#para_101">101</a>. Proceed with -closed throttle adjustment.</p> - -<p>(1) Loosen control wire clamp screw in connector block.</p> - -<p>(2) Turn right handle bar grip outward as far as it will go: then -turn it inward slightly. Holding throttle grip in this position, move -throttle lever forward against its stop (closed position) and secure -control wire in connector block with clamp screw. Check closing of -throttle after tightening control wire set screw. If necessary, reset -the control wire in the connector block until throttle is closed with -full outward grip movement.</p> - -<p><b>c. Adjust Fully Open Throttle</b> (<a href="#fig_44">fig. 44</a>). Follow -instructions under step <b>b</b> above, then:</p> - -<p>(1) Turn right handle bar grip inward as far as it will go and see that -throttle lever is against its stop in fully open position. If throttle -does not open fully when grip is turned inward, reset the control wire -in the connector block to correct the adjustment.</p> - -<h4 id="para_70">70. CARBURETOR REMOVAL.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Carburetor for Replacement Only.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen connector block clamp screw and disconnect throttle control -wire at throttle lever.</p> - -<p>(3) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer nipple.</p> - -<p>(4) Loosen air cleaner hose clamp at carburetor air intake fitting, and -remove four screws and air intake fitting from carburetor.</p> - -<p>(5) Remove the three mounting bolts (from right side of vehicle) which -secure carburetor to manifold flange. CAUTION: <i>Take care not to damage -or lose gaskets found between carburetor flange and manifold flange, -and/or ½–inch thick steel spacer fitted between carburetor and manifold -on some models.</i></p> - -<p>(6) Remove carburetor.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove fuel strainer assembly from carburetor bowl nipple.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_71">71. CARBURETOR INSTALLATION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> When installing carburetor be sure to fit the ½–inch thick -steel spacer (if one was originally fitted) between carburetor and -manifold flanges, with two gaskets on one side and one gasket on -the other side. Later models have a longer manifold neck, extending -carburetor farther to the left, away from cylinders, and do not need -the spacer.</p> - -<p>(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on bowl nipple. Leave coupling nut -loose until after fuel pipe is connected.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_45" id="fig_45"></a> -<img src="images/i_119.jpg" width="600" height="589" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310242<br /> -<i>Figure 45—Removing Fuel Strainer</i></p></div> - - -<p>(2) To install carburetor on manifold, locate carburetor flange and -two gaskets (½–inch steel spacer and gaskets if originally fitted) to -aline with holes in manifold flange, and insert and securely tighten -the three carburetor mounting screws. Use a <sup>7</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–inch socket wrench, -or a large screwdriver, to securely tighten these screws. NOTE: If -carburetor manifold is loose in manifold packing nuts (<i>carburetor can -be lifted and manifold turns in packing nuts), tighten manifold nuts -securely, using manifold wrench</i> (<i>41–W–1570–10</i>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Insert carburetor air intake fitting into end of air hose and mount -fitting on carburetor with the four screws. Tighten air hose clamp.</p> - -<p>(4) Connect fuel pipe to fuel strainer nipple by tightening the union -nut and also the strainer union nut on bowl nipple.</p> - -<p>(5) Attach throttle control wire to throttle lever connector block and -adjust (par. <a href="#para_69">69</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Open fuel supply valve and observe for leaks.</p> - -<p>(7) Adjust carburetor (par. <a href="#para_68">68</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_72">72. FUEL STRAINER (<a href="#fig_45">fig. 45</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Cleaning.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.</p> - -<p>(2) Unscrew cap from bottom of strainer body.</p> - -<p>(3) Lift strainer screen element with cork washer out of cap and clean -thoroughly. Remove any dirt or sediment collected in cap. NOTE: <i>If -compressed air is not available for cleaning, gasoline from the fuel -pipe can be used for cleaning screen and cap.</i></p> - -<p>(4) Install one cork washer in bottom of cap, set strainer screen -element in place, and locate the other cork washer over screen element. -Turn cap with screen element and washers onto bottom of strainer body, -handtight.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Strainer Assembly.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.</p> - -<p>(2) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer body nipple.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove filter assembly from carburetor bowl nipple. It will be -noted that coupling nut is an integral part of the filter body assembly.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install Strainer Assembly.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on carburetor bowl nipple. Leave -coupling nut loose until after fuel pipe is connected.</p> - -<p>(2) Connect fuel pipe to strainer body nipple and tighten union nut. -Strainer coupling nut can now be tightened on bowl nipple.</p> - -<p>(3) Open fuel supply valve. Inspect fuel pipe and coupling nuts for -leaks.</p> - -<h4 id="para_73">73. CARBURETOR BOWL CLEANING.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Water from fuel, water moisture, and dirt entering air -cleaner will settle in bottom of carburetor bowl and will interfere -with engine starting and carburetion. At periodic intervals bowl must -be drained. NOTE: <i>Before draining and flushing bowl, clean fuel -strainer</i> (par. <a href="#para_72">72</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on jiffy (side) stand.</p> - -<p>(2) Shut off fuel supply valve.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove bowl drain screw. Let fuel, water, and dirt run out of bowl. -With drain screw still removed, open fuel supply valve (turn to left) -and leave open only a few seconds, to allow fresh gasoline to flush out -bowl.</p> - -<p>(4) Replace bowl drain screw, taking care to avoid thread crossing. Set -screw snug, but not tight enough to strip the threads.</p> - -<h4 id="para_74">74. FUEL PIPE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove pipe union nut from tank nipple. Remove pipe after -disconnecting union nut from fuel strainer body nipple.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> Fuel pipe must be installed without putting -undue twist or strain on pipe or end fittings. Therefore, bend and/or -shape pipe to “fit” between nipple connections before replacing and -drawing up on union nuts.</p> - -<p>(1) Connect lower end of pipe to fuel filter body nipple. Do not -tighten nut.</p> - -<p>(2) Connect upper end of pipe to tank nipple. Securely tighten this -nut. Next, tighten union nut on strainer body nipple.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XVII"><span class="small sansserif">Section XVII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">INTAKE AND EXHAUST SYSTEM</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XVII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_75">75</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Air cleaner</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_76">76</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Hose and carburetor fitting</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_77">77</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Remove air cleaner</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_78">78</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Install air cleaner</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_79">79</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Replacement of air cleaner mounting bracket</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_80">80</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Exhaust system</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_81">81</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_75">75. DESCRIPTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Intake System.</b> The air intake system consists of oil -bath air cleaner, connecting air hose, and carburetor intake hose -fitting. This system is located on left side of vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>b. Exhaust System.</b> The exhaust system consists of muffler -and tailpiece assembly, front exhaust pipe assembly, and rear exhaust -pipe. Exhaust pipe ends are a slip fit in cylinder exhaust ports.</p> - -<h4 id="para_76">76. AIR CLEANER (figs. <a href="#fig_46">46</a> and <a href="#fig_47">47</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. General.</b> Air cleaner should not be submerged in water, -nor should high‐pressure stream be directed into cleaner louvers (where -air enters on rear of body) when cleaning vehicle. Either water or dirt -entering air cleaner in excessive quantities will raise the oil level -in oil cup and choke off proper air supply to carburetor.</p> - -<p><b>b. Service.</b> With vehicle in normal use on hard‐surfaced -roads, clean and refill air cleaner oil cup with engine oil (seasonal -grade) at least each time engine oil tank is drained and refilled. -CAUTION: <i>Service more frequently under dusty conditions; daily under -extremely dusty conditions. Check oil supply daily.</i></p> - -<p>(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining -spring clips to remove oil cup.</p> - -<p>(2) If oil in cup is clean, with no signs of dirt and grit in oil or -cup, but the oil level is below the indicated level mark, add engine -oil (seasonal grade) to bring level up to mark. NOTE: <i>If oil and cup -are dirty, empty out oil and wash out cup with dry‐cleaning solvent. -Refill with clean engine oil (seasonal grade) to indicated level mark.</i></p> - -<p>(3) Before installing oil cup make sure that the oil cup gasket is in -place and in good condition.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Check baffle plate thumb screw for tightness.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_46" id="fig_46"></a> -<img src="images/i_123.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310243<br /> -<i>Figure 46—Air Cleaner Oil Cup Removed</i></p></div> - -<p>(5) Install oil cup, making sure that retaining spring clips are fully -engaged in lip of oil cup and hold oil cup securely to cleaner body.</p> - -<p>(6) Oil bath air cleaners on earlier models are of “round” type, oil -cup being secured to body with a metal clamp band and thumb screw. When -oil cup is removed on this type of cleaner, the baffle plate will come -out with the cup. Make sure that baffle plate is correctly installed -and that gasket is in place when installing cup.</p> - -<p><b>c. Maintenance</b> (<a href="#fig_47">fig. 47</a>). The rectangular‐type oil bath -air cleaner is provided with two filter elements, retained in filter -body by means of the baffle plate. If daily check reveals excessive -accumulation of dirt and grit in oil and cup, filter elements must be -removed and cleaned. NOTE: <i>Check several times daily under extremely -dusty or sandy conditions.</i></p> - -<p>(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining -spring clips; remove cup.</p> - -<p>(2) Unscrew baffle plate thumb screw and remove baffle plate.</p> - -<p>(3) Filter elements may “bind” in cleaner body. If so, rap side of body -with hand to loosen them; or, if necessary, withdraw elements from body -with pliers or a hooked wire.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Check for presence and condition of gasket above the two filter -elements (in filter body); also for oil cup gasket.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_47" id="fig_47"></a> -<img src="images/i_124.jpg" width="354" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310244<br /> -<i>Figure 47—Air Cleaner, Disassembled</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Clean both filter elements thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent. -Allow elements to dry out (use air hose if available).</p> - -<p>(6) Clean oil cup and refill to indicated level mark. Use clean engine -oil (seasonal grade).</p> - -<p>(7) Dip one screen surface of each filter element about ½ inch into -oil in the oil cup (to “oil wet” filter pack). Install the two filter -elements, baffle plate, and oil cup immediately after “oil wetting” the -filter elements. Make sure gaskets are in place. NOTE: <i>Do not add more -oil to oil cup after elements have been dipped into it, because excess -oil absorbed by elements will drip back into oil cup, bringing level -back to normal.</i></p> - -<p>(8) Round‐type oil bath air cleaner used on earlier models does not -have removable filter element. Complete cleaner body must be removed -from vehicle, immersed and agitated in cleaning solvent to wash out -dirt. After cleaning, allow filter element to dry (use air hose if -available), then apply a few squirts of engine oil to inside of cleaner -element, using oilcan. Refill cup, replace baffle plate and cup, -securely tightening clamp band thumb screw.</p> - -<h4 id="para_77">77. HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b> Carburetor intake and hose connection must be -removed from carburetor to remove and/or install air hose.</p> - -<p>(1) Loosen screws in the two hose clamps.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove four screws retaining carburetor air intake fitting. Remove -carburetor fitting from end of hose, and pull hose off air cleaner body -connection.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> Before installing air hose, inspect for -breaks or faulty condition that might prevent airtight seal between air -cleaner and carburetor fitting.</p> - -<p>(1) Install one end of hose on carburetor fitting. Do not tighten clamp -screw.</p> - -<p>(2) Install other end of hose on air cleaner connection. Do not tighten -clamp screw.</p> - -<p>(3) Install carburetor fitting. Securely tighten the four screws. Next, -center air hose between carburetor fitting and air cleaner connection -and securely tighten hose clamp screws.</p> - -<h4 id="para_78">78. REMOVE AIR CLEANER.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Loosen hose clamp screw at air cleaner body connection and -remove two nuts and gear‐toothed washers from bolts securing air -cleaner assembly to frame bracket. NOTE: <i>Gear‐toothed lock washers are -also used under heads of the two mounting bolts. Withdraw cleaner from -end of air hose.</i></p> - -<p><b>b.</b> The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on -earlier models.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_79">79. INSTALL AIR CLEANER.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Engage air cleaner hose connection in end of hose and mount -cleaner assembly on frame bracket with two bolts, gear‐toothed lock -washers, and nuts. Securely tighten mounting nuts. NOTE: <i>The plated -(whitened) mounting bolts, four gear‐toothed lock washers, and bolt -nuts must effect a ground connection between bracket and filter -mounting to insure adequate radio bonding.</i> Tighten air hose clamp -screw at cleaner body connection.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on -earlier models.</p> - -<h4 id="para_80">80. REPLACEMENT OF AIR CLEANER MOUNTING BRACKET.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Air cleaner mounting bracket and air cleaner can be removed -or installed as an assembly.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Loosen hose clamp connection at air cleaner body.</p> - -<p>(2) Disconnect battery ground wire. This prevents shorting battery when -removing cleaner bracket clamp bolt.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove the two upper cleaner bracket frame clamp bolts.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove lower mounting bolt. Cleaner lower bracket mounting and -clutch cable tube mounting are secured to frame bracket by the same -whitened radio bonding bolt, gear‐toothed lock washers, and nut. Remove -nut and drop bolt to free cleaner bracket.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Engage air hose and cleaner body connection.</p> - -<p>(2) Attach lower bracket first. Locate cleaner bracket so that hole -lines up with bolt holes in frame bracket and clutch cable tube -mounting. Pass whitened radio bonding bolt upward through bracket hole, -install shakeproof lock washer, and securely tighten nut.</p> - -<p>(3) Attach bracket to the two upper frame clips. Tighten the clamp bolt -nuts.</p> - -<p>(4) Connect battery ground wire.</p> - -<p>(5) Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner connection.</p> - -<h4 id="para_81">81. EXHAUST SYSTEM.</h4> - -<p class="p1" id="para_81a"><b>a. Remove Muffler Assembly.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove bolt from end of hanger bracket on left side of vehicle, and -remove bolt from muffler clamp and skid plate bracket on right side of -vehicle. Drop skid plate.</p> - -<p>(3) Loosen nut and bolt on clamp which secures front end of muffler at -exhaust pipe connection (clamp is attached to muffler).</p> - -<p>(4) Remove muffler rear hanger bracket bolt nut. Pull muffler assembly -free from exhaust pipe connection.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span></p> - -<p><b>b. Install Muffler Assembly.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Engage muffler pipe and exhaust pipe at muffler pipe clamp -connection. Do not tighten clamp bolt nut as yet.</p> - -<p>(2) Attach muffler rear hanger bracket to frame bracket bolt, -installing lock washer, and tightening nut. NOTE: <i>It may be advisable -to loosen hanger bracket on muffler so that muffler can be lined up for -front end connection.</i></p> - -<p>(3) Tighten muffler and exhaust pipe clamp bolt nut and rear hanger nut.</p> - -<p>(4) Raise skid plate into position and install right side mounting bolt -which secures muffler front bracket and skid plate bracket to frame -clip. Tighten all mounting nuts.</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Exhaust Pipes.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Refer to step <a href="#para_81a"><b>a</b></a> (1), (2), (3) above.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove right side footboard and brake pedal assembly as follows: -Loosen footboard rear support stud nut, remove front support stud -nut, and pull footboard outward to free end of safety guard. Remove -bolt which secures front exhaust pipe clamp, and remove nut from rear -support rod, freeing stop light switch and rear end of footboard -sidebar. Remove nut from front support rod, and drop footboard and -brake foot pedal assembly to provide clearance for exhaust pipe -removal. Disengage rear exhaust pipe at cylinder port, at same time -prying and pulling front exhaust pipe forward and downward to free -from cylinder port. Both exhaust pipes can now be worked downward and -removed from vehicle as an assembly.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Exhaust Pipes.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Position exhaust pipe (front and rear) assembly, working it into -position so that front pipe end slips into cylinder port; then, pry and -force rear pipe end into rear cylinder port.</p> - -<p>(2) Mount footboard, brake foot pedal, and sidebar assembly on support -rods, installing washer and nut on front support rod.</p> - -<p>(3) Position and mount stop light switch on rear support rod. See that -spring and operating control wire exert a straight pull on switch -plunger when foot pedal is operated.</p> - -<p>(4) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure front exhaust pipe clamp -to footboard sidebar.</p> - -<p>(5) To attach safety guard to sidebar, pull front end of footboard away -from sidebar, line up holes in sidebar and safety guard end, then pass -footboard support stud through both pieces, and secure with washer and -nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Tighten footboard rear support stud nut.</p> - -<p>(7) To complete installation, follow procedure outlined in step -<b>b</b> (1) through (4) above.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_48" id="fig_48"></a> -<img src="images/i_128.jpg" width="417" height="600" alt="" /> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>10</b>—INSTRUMENT PANEL TERMINAL.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>12</b>—BATTERY POSITIVE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>13</b>—BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>18</b>—TERMINAL JUNCTION ON FRAME.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>26</b>—IGNITION—LIGHT SWITCH.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>28</b>—SPARK COIL.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>33</b>—CIRCUIT BREAKER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>34</b>—COIL TO TIMER WIRE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>*A</b>—RADIO BOND, COIL TO TIMER WIRE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>*B</b>—RADIO BOND, COIL TO ENGINE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>*C</b>—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>*D</b>—SHIELDED COIL TO TIMER WIRE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>*E</b>—SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS.</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315723<br /> -<i>Figure 48—Ignition to Battery Wiring Diagram</i></p></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XVIII"><span class="small sansserif">Section XVIII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">IGNITION SYSTEM</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XVIII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_82">82</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Spark plugs</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_83">83</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Circuit breaker points</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_84">84</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Condenser</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_85">85</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Circuit breaker and timer assembly</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_86">86</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Coil to timer wire</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_87">87</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Adjust spark control</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_88">88</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Spark coil</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_89">89</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_82">82. DESCRIPTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> The ignition system differs from that of the conventional -automotive types in that it has no distributor. A circuit breaker alone -is used. Both coil high‐tension winding ends lead directly to both -spark plugs. Thus both plugs spark at the same time, one cylinder being -on compression stroke while the other cylinder is on exhaust stroke.</p> - -<h4 id="para_83">83. SPARK PLUGS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Defective spark plugs are indicated by engine missing, -overheating, knocking excessively, and lacking normal power.</p> - -<p><b>b. Type.</b> Spark plugs are medium heat range, -manufacturer’s (H–D) No. 3.</p> - -<p><b>c. Cleaning.</b> Do not take plugs apart for cleaning. Use -the sandblast cleaner method.</p> - -<p><b>d. Point Adjustment.</b> Bend electrode located in plug base -to adjust point gap 0.025 inch to 0.030 inch.</p> - -<p><b>e. Replacement.</b> Use spark plug wrench (41–W–3334) to -install plugs, using new gaskets. Never draw a cool plug up tight in -a hot cylinder head, rather turn down snug and wait l/2 minute until -plug base is warm: then tighten securely. CAUTION: <i>Take care not to -cross‐thread when installing spark plug.</i></p> - -<h4 id="para_84">84. CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS (<a href="#fig_49">fig. 49</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Circuit breaker lever is insulated from ground and connects -to primary wire binding post by means of a “pig‐tail” wire. Stationary -point is grounded to timer base and is movable in order to adjust -circuit breaker points. Circuit breaker points that are burned or -pitted should be renewed or dressed with a clean fine‐cut, contact -point file. The file should not be used on other metals and should -not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. CAUTION: <i>Never use emery</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> -<i>cloth to clean points.</i> Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may -not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication -that they are not functioning satisfactorily.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Breaker Lever.</b></p> - -<p>(1) To disconnect condenser terminal, remove nut from end of condenser -and remove gear‐toothed washer, plain washer, and the brass terminal -strip. Do not remove fiber washer and plain washer located back of -brass terminal strip on condenser terminal post.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_49" id="fig_49"></a> -<img src="images/i_130.jpg" width="600" height="592" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310248<br /> -<i>Figure 49—Circuit Breaker Points Removed</i></p></div> - -<p>(2) Bend brass terminal strip down and remove binding nut which secures -brass terminal strip and breaker lever “pig‐tail” to primary wire -binding post.</p> - -<p>(3) Compress breaker lever spring at end of lever, disengaging spring. -CAUTION: <i>Do not lose spring.</i> Release and remove lever from insulated -pivot post.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Adjustable Contact Point.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove the two lock screws and washer plate, securing adjustable -contact point assembly to timer base. Point assembly is free to be -lifted off lever pivot stud.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Adjustable Contact Point.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Install contact point assembly, replacing washer plate and the two -lock screws. Do not tighten lock screws until circuit breaker points -are adjusted (step <b>f</b> below).</p> - -<p><b>e. Install Breaker Lever.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Install brass terminal strip on primary wire binding post.</p> - -<p>(2) Connect end of brass terminal strip to condenser terminal post. -Install flat washer, gear‐toothed washer, and nut.</p> - -<p>(3) Install breaker lever on pivot post insulated bearing.</p> - -<p>(4) Install breaker lever spring. Make sure that ends of spring are -retained correctly.</p> - -<p>(5) NOTE: <i>Keep breaker lever cam very lightly greased.</i></p> - -<p id="para_84f"><b>f. Adjusting Circuit Breaker Points</b> (<a href="#fig_51">fig. 51</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Correct point gap is 0.022 inch. Circuit breaker point faces must -seat squarely against each other. If bent, square up and aline by -bending contact plate. Turn timer breaker cam until breaker lever fiber -is located on highest point of cam.</p> - -<p>(2) With the adjustable point lock screws loose, shift the adjustable -point plate to obtain a 0.022–inch gap between the circuit breaker -points. Measure gap with an accurate thickness gage before retightening -lock screws, and again recheck point gap after tightening the lock -screws. NOTE: <i>Wrong circuit breaker point gap affects ignition timing.</i></p> - -<h4 id="para_85">85. CONDENSER.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> The condenser is connected in parallel with the circuit -breaker points, one of its terminals being grounded (for the adjustable -point) to the timer base by means of the mounting screw, the other -terminal making connection with the circuit breaker lever (for the -lever point) by means of the lever “pig‐tail.”</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Unlatch circuit breaker cover retainer and remove cover.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove nut from end of condenser and remove gear‐toothed washer, -plain washer, and the brass terminal strip. NOTE: <i>A small plain washer -and a large fiber washer are located behind brass terminal strip.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Remove screw which secures condenser to timer base. Remove -condenser.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_50" id="fig_50"></a> -<img src="images/i_132.jpg" width="361" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310249<br /> -<i>Figure 50—Circuit Breaker (Timer), Disassembled</i></p></div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Mount condenser on timer housing. Install lock washer and screw. -Make sure small plain washer and large fiber washer are in place on -condenser end terminal screw before connecting the brass terminal strip.</p> - -<p>(2) Connect brass terminal strip to condenser. Replace plain washer, -gear‐toothed washer and terminal nut.</p> - -<p>(3) Install circuit breaker cover.</p> - -<h4 id="para_86">86. CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER ASSEMBLY (figs. <a href="#fig_50">50</a> and <a href="#fig_51">51</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> When the circuit breaker timer shaft and base assembly must -be replaced due to excessive wear in timer shaft bearing, sheared worm -gear pin, and/or worn or damaged worm gear, engine ignition must be -retimed. Ignition timing for the V‐type twin engine is difficult and -should be attempted only by experienced personnel.</p> - -<p id="para_86b"><b>b. Remove</b> (<a href="#fig_50">fig. 50</a>). Before the timer shaft and base -assembly can be removed, the circuit breaker timer head assembly must -be removed. NOTE: <i>If the timer head only, or timer wire, is to be -replaced, it is not necessary to remove timer shaft and base assembly, -and thus throw engine ignition out of time.</i></p> - -<p>(1) Remove timer head cover.</p> - -<p>(2) Unlatch cover retainer ends from holes in the timer head and remove.</p> - -<p>(3) Disconnect spark control wire at timer lever.</p> - -<p>(4) Lift the timer head assembly off base. The head seating tension -(ground) spring (underneath shaft base) is also free, and can now be -removed. NOTE: <i>It is not necessary to disconnect timer to coil wire -from timer head terminal post, unless head or wire is being replaced.</i></p> - -<p>(5) Remove the two timer base mounting screws and lock washers. It will -be noted that one screw grounds the timer to coil wire shielding.</p> - -<p>(6) Timer shaft and base assembly can now be lifted out of engine gear -case cover. Take care not to damage or misplace base gasket.</p> - -<p id="para_86c"><b>c. Install Timer Shaft and Base Assembly and Timing -Ignition</b> (<a href="#fig_51">fig. 51</a>). This calls for retiming engine ignition as -follows: (NOTE: <i>Circuit breaker cam turns in clockwise direction</i>):</p> - -<p>(1) Unscrew and raise front cylinder inlet valve spring cover, using -tappet wrench (41–W–3617).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until valve tappet -indicates front cylinder is on compression stroke (directly after front -cylinder intake valve closes).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_51" id="fig_51"></a> -<img src="images/i_134.jpg" width="600" height="478" alt="" /> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—FLYWHEEL TIMING MARK IN CRANKCASE INSPECTION HOLE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—COVER RETAINER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—CIRCUIT BREAKER CAM.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—CONDENSER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—SPARK CONTROL WIRE HOUSING.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—SPARK CONTROL WIRE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—SPARK LEVER QUADRANT.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—SPARK LEVER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND SCREW.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD AND HAND INDICATING ORIGINAL FACTORY TIMING.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>N</b>—CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>O</b>—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT PLATE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>P</b>—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT LOCK SCREWS.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>Q</b>—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER PIVOT (INSULATED).</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>R</b>—BREAKER LEVER SPRING.</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310281<br /> -<i>Figure 51—Circuit Breaker Marks and Flywheel Mark Correctly Alined</i></p></div> - -<p>(3) Remove plug from timing inspection hole in left‐side crankcase.</p> - -<p>(4) Continue turning engine slowly until flywheel timing mark is in -center of inspection hole (<a href="#fig_51">fig. 51</a>). Do not turn engine further.</p> - -<p>(5) Install paper gasket and timer head tension (ground) spring on -timer shaft base assembly. Make sure bent ends of tension spring are -facing downward (away from timer base).</p> - -<p>(6) Insert timer shaft and base assembly all the way down into place in -timing gear case cover, trying to locate mark on small end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> of breaker -cam in position shown in figure 51. Do not install base mounting screws -as yet.</p> - -<p>(7) Install timer head assembly so that spark control lever is within -the advance and retard quadrant (<a href="#fig_51">fig. 51</a>). NOTE: <i>Do not install cover -retainer until later.</i></p> - -<p>(8) Fully advance spark lever (push inward toward engine) and observe -how closely mark on breaker cam lines up with breaker lever fiber. -If mark does not line up, lift timer base and turn shaft gear so its -engagement with its driving gear is changed one tooth. Check again -according to breaker cam mark and breaker lever fiber. Repeat this -procedure until gear engagement is obtained which closely alines cam -mark and breaker lever fiber.</p> - -<p>(9) See that timer base is turned so that timer to coil wire is toward -rear of engine.</p> - -<p>(10) Install timer base screws and lock washers. Make sure that timer -to coil wire shielding is grounded under head of screw farthest away -from engine (<a href="#fig_52">fig. 52</a>). Securely tighten screws.</p> - -<p>(11) Install timer head on base and secure with ground spring and cover -retainer. Be sure ground spring is in its proper place so that when -cover retainer ends are fitted through holes in the timer head, they -will also fit into spring locating notches. It will be necessary to -press ground spring upward under timer base to engage retainer ends -in the spring notches. NOTE: <i>If cover retainer ends do not engage -ground spring notches, spring will have no tension and timer head -will be loose on its base.</i> Circuit breaker points and condenser are -electrically grounded through timer base, and ground spring holds the -head and base in close contact, thus assuring a good ground.</p> - -<p>(12) Connect spark control wire and timer lever and adjust (par. <a href="#para_88">88</a>).</p> - -<p>(13) Engine is now timed according to original factory setting, -providing mark on side of timer head and hole in head adjusting band -are still in alinement, and circuit breaker point gap is 0.022 inch. -Even though all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as -outlined in the foregoing instructions, it is advisable to accurately -check ignition timing (step <b>d</b> following).</p> - -<p><b>d. Recommended Recheck of Ignition Timing</b> (<a href="#fig_51">fig. 51</a>). -Even though all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as -when engine was originally timed, ignition timing may change somewhat -after engine has been in service for a while, due to normal wear and -seating of the various moving parts that can affect ignition timing. -Since accurate ignition timing is the first essential to good engine -performance, it is advisable to check ignition timing on new vehicle -after first 1,500 miles of service, and at each 2,000 miles thereafter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) See that circuit breaker points are adjusted for correct gap of -0.022 inch (par. <a href="#para_84f">84 <b>f</b></a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Advance timer lever fully (toward engine).</p> - -<p>(3) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until front cylinder -is on compression stroke, and continue to turn it ahead slowly until -narrow timer cam (the end with the timing mark), just starts to open -the circuit breaker points.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_52" id="fig_52"></a> -<img src="images/i_136.jpg" width="600" height="571" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 318205<br /> -<i>Figure 52—Shielding of Coil to Timer Wire Grounded on Base</i></p></div> - -<p>(4) An accurate test light check as to when points just start to break -can be made, using the instrument panel red light for the purpose. -Disconnect panel light wire from the oil pressure switch, attaching -this wire to the insulated terminal post on timer head. Turn ignition -and light switch on. As long as circuit breaker points are closed, -lamp will remain lit; as points start to open, lamp will go out. NOTE: -<i>After making use of instrument panel red light for above purpose, -reconnect wire to oil pressure switch.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) When exact position is found, where points just start to open, -flywheel mark should be in the center of the inspection hole.</p> - -<p>(6) If flywheel mark is not in center of hole when points open, -readjust ignition timing as necessary (slower or faster) by means of -the timer head and band adjustment.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_53" id="fig_53"></a> -<img src="images/i_137.jpg" width="600" height="614" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 318203<br /> -<i>Figure 53—Shielded Coil to Timer Wire Correctly Connected at Coil</i></p></div> - -<p>(7) To readjust timer head, loosen adjusting band screw and shift -timer head in band. If flywheel timing mark shows forward of center -in inspection hole, the timing is slow. To correct, shift timer head -counterclockwise against rotation of breaker cam. If flywheel mark is -to rear of center of inspection hole, timing is fast and timer head -must be shifted with rotation (clockwise) of breaker cam, to correct -timing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span></p> - -<p>(8) With ignition timing correct, front cylinder piston is 9/32 inch -before top dead center, on compression stroke, when circuit breaker -points just start to open. At this point spark occurs, igniting front -cylinder fuel charge.</p> - -<p>(9) Install flywheel inspection hole plug in left crankcase.</p> - -<h4 id="para_87">87. COIL TO TIMER WIRE (figs. <a href="#fig_52">52</a> and <a href="#fig_53">53</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Models provided with radio shielding are identified by “S” on -either side of instrument panel. The coil to timer wire (low‐tension -wire) on these models is shielded for radio noise suppression.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove the two bolts which secure upper end of air cleaner bracket -to frame tube. Swing air cleaner and bracket outward and forward to -gain access to spark coil rear terminal.</p> - -<p>(3) Disconnect coil to timer wire terminal from coil rear connection. -Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground connection.</p> - -<p>(4) Refer to paragraph <a href="#para_86b">86 <b>b</b></a> (1) to (4) for timer head removal.</p> - -<p>(5) Remove timer base mounting screw which secures wire shielding (<a href="#fig_52">fig. -52</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Note position of coil to timer wire inside of timer head; then -remove nut washer connecting wire to insulated contact stud.</p> - -<p>(7) Work old wire and loom out of timer head hole and free from vehicle.</p> - -<p>(8) On earlier models, the coil to timer wire was soldered to end of -insulated stud. Removal of stud is necessary to remove this wire, or -replace it with a shielded wire. Note location of stud insulations -on inside and outside of timer head, for correct installation when -reassembling.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Pass end of wire, shield terminal, and loom up through hole in -timer base.</p> - -<p>(2) Ground the wire shield terminal under head of timer base mounting -screw (<a href="#fig_52">fig. 52</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Connect wire end terminal to insulated stud so that wire leads away -from stud in direction shown (<a href="#fig_52">fig. 52</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Pass coil to timer wire up alongside and to rear of frame saddle -post tube to reach rear of spark coil.</p> - -<p>(5) Ground the wire shield terminal to coil rear ground connection -(<a href="#fig_53">fig. 53</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Connect wire terminal to coil rear primary connection (<a href="#fig_53">fig. 53</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span></p> - -<p>(7) Install timer head on base (par. <a href="#para_86c">86 <b>c</b></a> (11)).</p> - -<p>(8) Connect spark control wire to timer lever and adjust (par. <a href="#para_88">88</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Connect battery negative post wire to frame ground terminal.</p> - -<p>(10) Swing air cleaner bracket back into place and install two bolts, -washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clips.</p> - -<p>(11) Replace timer cover and check engine for starting.</p> - -<h4 id="para_88">88. ADJUST SPARK CONTROL.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Spark advance and retard is controlled by left handle bar -grip. Spark lever operates within a quadrant mounted on engine. Spark -must be fully advanced (lever inward toward engine) when handle bar -grip is turned inward to full extent of its travel. When handle bar -grip is turned outward, spark lever retards (lever outward away from -engine).</p> - -<p>(1) With control wire in lever stud and clamp screw loose, turn left -grip fully inward; then back it out just a little.</p> - -<p>(2) Shift spark lever inward toward engine as far as it will go; then -tighten control wire clamp screw. Test by turning left grip fully -inward and noting position of spark lever. It should be against inner -side of quadrant (<a href="#fig_51">fig. 51</a>). Retard spark and check position of lever -within quadrant; it should be against outer side of quadrant.</p> - -<p>(3) Check final adjustment. Readjust full advance and retard timer -lever positions as necessary when left grip is turned inward, and -outward, respectively.</p> - -<h4 id="para_89">89. SPARK COIL (<a href="#fig_54">fig. 54</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Spark coil high‐tension cables go directly to the spark -plugs, no distributor being used. When the coil is faulty, it must be -replaced, since internal repairs are not possible. The high‐tension -cables can be replaced, however. Coil is provided with a condenser for -radio noise suppression, and metal coil case is grounded to engine by -bonding.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire from frame connection.</p> - -<p>(2) Free high‐tension cable ends (with radio noise suppressors) from -spark plugs. Free front cylinder high‐tension cable from clip at upper -engine frame mounting.</p> - -<p>(3) Loosen air intake hose connection at carburetor fitting.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Remove two nuts, washers, and bolts securing upper end of air -cleaner mounting bracket to frame clamps.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_54" id="fig_54"></a> -<img src="images/i_140.jpg" width="600" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 318204<br /> -<i>Figure 54—Coil Front Connections Showing Radio Bonding and Noise -Suppression Condenser</i></p></div> - -<p>(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly outward to gain access to -coil rear terminals.</p> - -<p>(6) Disconnect coil to timer wire from coil rear terminal screw. -Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground terminal (<a href="#fig_53">fig. 53</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Swing cleaner back and remove wire connections from coil front -terminal screw (<a href="#fig_54">fig. 54</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) Disconnect radio bonding at coil front ground terminal (<a href="#fig_54">fig. 54</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Remove nuts and bolts which mount coil to bracket. Coil is now free -for removal.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Mount coil on frame bracket with high‐tension cables upward, and -reinstall mounting bolts, lock washers, and nuts. Tighten nuts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Connect terminals of the two green wires to coil front terminal -screw. Refer to wiring diagram, figure <a href="#fig_48">48</a>.</p> - -<p>(3) Connect radio bonding to coil front ground terminal. Tighten nut -securely.</p> - -<p>(4) Connect coil to timer wire terminal to coil rear terminal screw. -Connect wire shielding to coil rear ground terminal. Tighten nut -securely.</p> - -<p>(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly back in place and install -two bolts, lock washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clamps. -Tighten nuts securely.</p> - -<p>(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.</p> - -<p>(7) Pass front cylinder high‐tension wire under tank, secure in cable -clip at upper engine frame mounting, and attach cable end (radio noise -suppressor) to front spark plug. Attach rear high‐tension cable end -(radio noise suppressor) to rear spark plug.</p> - -<p>(8) Check wiring connections (<a href="#fig_48">fig. 48</a>) and test coil by engine -starting.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XIX"><span class="small sansserif">Section XIX</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">GENERATING SYSTEM</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XIX"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_90">90</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Clean commutator</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_91">91</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Armature bearing special lubrication</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_92">92</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Remove generator</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_93">93</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Install generator</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_94">94</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cut‐out relay</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_95">95</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_55" id="fig_55"></a> -<a name="i_142" id="i_142"></a> -<img src="images/i_142.jpg" width="600" height="462" alt="" /> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>8</b>—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>12</b>—BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>13</b>—BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (GROUND)</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>14</b>—“SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>15</b>—“RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>18</b>—FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>26</b>—IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>32</b>—CUT‐OUT RELAY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>*H</b>—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 317200<br /> -<i>Figure 55—Generator to Battery Wiring Diagram</i></p></div> - - -<h4 id="para_90">90. DESCRIPTION (<a href="#fig_55">fig. 55</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> The generator is shunt connected. The two field coils, -regulating coil, and shunt coil are not connected in series in the -conventional manner. The regulating field coil provides adequate -current output (approx. 4 amperes) for daytime operation. The shunt -field coil is controlled through the ignition and light switch to -increase<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> current output (approx. 8 amperes) when vehicle lights -are in use. Generator uses the third (regulating) brush system of -current regulation. A cut‐out relay serves as a magnetic switch in the -generator‐battery circuit, also operating the instrument panel green -signal light to indicate generator charge.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_56" id="fig_56"></a> -<img src="images/i_143.jpg" width="600" height="671" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310259<br /> -<i>Figure 56—Generator Cover Removed for Commutator Cleaning</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_91">91. CLEAN COMMUTATOR (<a href="#fig_56">fig. 56</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> If battery is in good condition, cut‐out relay is -functioning, and wiring connections are made according to diagram (<a href="#fig_55">fig. -55</a>), yet generator does not charge or charge rate is low, proceed to -clean the commutator.</p> - -<p>(1) Remove left footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly, -following procedure outlined under paragraph <a href="#para_102">102 <b>a</b></a> (1) to (6), -to permit generator cover removal.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Remove the two end cover screws and pull end cover off generator.</p> - -<p>(3) Clean armature commutator with No. 00 sandpaper until bright and -clean. Blow out with air. CAUTION: <i>Do not remove or disturb brushes in -their holders. Never use emery cloth to clean the commutator.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_57" id="fig_57"></a> -<img src="images/i_144.jpg" width="600" height="623" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310260<br /> -<i>Figure 57—Generator End Cover and Grease Retainer Removed</i></p></div> - -<p>(4) Temporarily install footboard assembly and operate engine, to -observe whether or not generator is charging (green signal light -goes off at above 20 mph). If cleaning commutator does not remedy -generator charge, and/or commutator is badly worn, then generator must -be replaced (par. <a href="#para_93">93</a>). If cleaning of commutator remedied generator -charge, reinstall generator end cover, and the footboard and clutch -pedal assembly (par. <a href="#para_102b">102 <b>b</b></a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_92">92. ARMATURE BEARING SPECIAL LUBRICATION (<a href="#fig_57">fig. 57</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> At the 6,000–mile second echelon preventive maintenance -service period, the commutator end bearing must be hand‐packed. In -performing this operation, care must be taken not to shift or move the -generator third (regulating) brush, thus disturbing generator current -regulation. Generator drive end bearing is adequately lubricated by oil -circulating through engine.</p> - -<p><b>b. To Lubricate Commutator End Bearing.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove left footboard, sidebar, and clutch pedal assembly, -following procedure outlined in paragraph <a href="#para_102">102 <b>a</b></a> (1) to (6).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove the two end cover screws and pull end cover off generator.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove two of the three screws which secure the outer grease -retainer plate to end of generator (<a href="#fig_57">fig. 57</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Loosen the other grease retainer plate screw slightly to permit -shifting plate to one side.</p> - -<p>(5) Pack ball bearing with general purpose grease No. 2, pressing -lubricant into bearing with finger.</p> - -<p>(6) Shift the outer grease retainer plate back into position. Install -the two screws removed, and securely tighten all three screws.</p> - -<p>(7) Install generator end cover and the two retaining screws.</p> - -<p>(8) Install left footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly, -following procedure outlined in paragraph <a href="#para_102b"> <b>b</b></a>.</p> - -<h4 id="para_93">93. REMOVE GENERATOR (figs. <a href="#fig_58">58</a> and <a href="#fig_59">59</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Generator is gear driven through engine timing gear train. -Generator can be removed and installed without removing timing gear -case cover, or affecting alinement of timing gears.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Before replacing generator because of failure of instrument -panel green signal light to indicate charge, check panel light wiring -and bulb for good condition (par. <a href="#para_120">120</a>).</p> - -<p><b>c.</b> When it has been determined that generator must be removed -for replacement, proceed as follows:</p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect wires from the two generator terminals marked SWITCH and -RELAY.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove the two long screws, through timing gear case cover, that -secure end of generator against gear case (<a href="#fig_58">fig. 58</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove strap nut, lock washer, and curved washer from end of strap -that clamps generator in its cradle on engine crankcase (<a href="#fig_59">fig. 59</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_58" id="fig_58"></a> -<img src="images/i_146.jpg" width="600" height="456" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310261<br /> -<i>Figure 58—Removing Generator End Mounting Screws</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_59" id="fig_59"></a> -<img src="images/i_146bot.jpg" width="600" height="466" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310262<br /> -<i>Figure 59—Removing Generator Strap Nut</i></p></div> - -<p>(4) Lift strap high enough to permit raising generator so that oil -slinger (on end of generator gear) will clear adjacent gear, and allow -generator to be removed from engine. Be sure to observe and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> count -number of paper shims between generator and cradle. Lay these shims -aside to be used again when generator is reinstalled. Also, note -location of hole in shims for oil drain. These shims were required in -original assembly to adjust driving gears for proper mesh and, if left -out, gears may mesh too deeply and “howl,” even though considerably -worn. Unless a new generator gasket is available, to be used when -generator is reinstalled, be careful not to damage the old one.</p> - -<h4 id="para_94">94. INSTALL GENERATOR.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> When installing generator, the important point to consider is -correct shimming of generator in its cradle to provide correct mesh of -driving gear with intermediate timing gear. Make sure same number of -paper shims are used in reassembling as were found underneath generator -when it was removed. After an engine has been run a considerable -length of time and gears have worn to some extent, they have possibly -developed sufficient lash or play to safely remove one or more of the -original shims, and thus affect closer meshing and quieter operation. -However, this should not be done unless timing gear case cover is -removed so that gear mesh and lash can be carefully checked.</p> - -<p>(1) Pass generator drive gear end through gear case hole, lifting -generator so that oil slinger clears intermediate timing gear. Turn -generator in its cradle so that end holes line up with long mounting -screws which pass through gear case cover. Tighten mounting screws -securely.</p> - -<p>(2) Install curved washer, lock washer, and nut on end of clamp strap; -tighten nut securely.</p> - -<p>(3) Connect red‐black wire to generator terminal marked RELAY, and -green wire to generator terminal marked SWITCH. Refer to wiring diagram -(<a href="#fig_55">fig. 55</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Operate engine and check generator for current output, as well as -check for gear noise. If shimming under generator is proper, generator -and timing gears will run quietly. If necessary, readjust shimming -until gears operate quietly.</p> - -<h4 id="para_95">95. CUT‐OUT RELAY.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Operation of the instrument panel green signal light, -indicating generator charge, is controlled by the cut‐out relay. -Therefore, if relay is faulty the signal light will not operate -properly, falsely indicating generator trouble. Rust around the contact -points, burned points, and loss of armature spring tension are sources -of most relay trouble. NOTE: <i>Before condemning a relay because of -failure of green signal light, make light test</i> (par. <a href="#para_120">120</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span></p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Correct adjustment of relay point gaps and tensioning of -armature springs require use of precision electric meters and expert -knowledge on the subject. A faulty relay, other than removing cover and -cleaning with air, should be replaced. No adjustment of points should -be attempted.</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect the three wires from relay terminal screws.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove the two mounting screws and lock washers. Remove relay from -engine base.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Mount relay on engine base with two screws and lock washers. Make -sure that mounting is clean to make good electrical ground contact -between relay and engine.</p> - -<p>(2) Reconnect the three wire terminals to relay terminal screws. Follow -wiring diagram, figure 55.</p> - -<p>(3) Operate engine and observe action of relay, also action of -instrument panel green signal light to indicate generator charge.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XX"><span class="small sansserif">Section XX</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">BRAKE SYSTEM</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XX"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Rear wheel brake</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_96">96</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Front wheel brake</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_97">97</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_96">96. REAR WHEEL BRAKE (figs. <a href="#fig_60">60</a>, <a href="#fig_61">61</a>, and <a href="#fig_62">62</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Linkage.</b> Brake foot pedal on right side of vehicle -is connected to bell crank (located on rear footboard support rod) -by means of the front brake rod (nonadjustable). The bell crank is -connected to rear brake operating lever by means of the rear brake rod -with adjustable clevis end.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_60" id="fig_60"></a> -<img src="images/i_149.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310277<br /> -<i>Figure 60—Rear Brake Adjustment</i></p></div> - -<p id="para_96b"><b>b. Adjusting Rear Wheel Brake</b> (<a href="#fig_60">fig. 60</a>). If brake -operating lever stands ahead of vertical position, excessive lining -wear is indicated. Brake shoes must be replaced (steps <b>c</b> and -<b>d</b> below). Normal free play of brake foot pedal before brake -operation is 1 inch. After brake takes effect in vehicle operation, -brake foot pedal should have 1–inch reserve travel before bottoming on -footboard. If brake foot pedal operation does not come within these -limits, adjust rear brake rod as follows:</p> - -<p>(1) Remove cotter pin, plain washer, and clevis pin from end of rear -brake rod clevis.</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen clevis lock nut on brake rod.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Turn clevis onto (clockwise) brake rod to shorten rod and take up -foot pedal free play.</p> - -<p>(4) Turn clevis off (counterclockwise) brake rod to lengthen rod and -increase foot pedal free play.</p> - -<p>(5) After making brake adjustment, spin rear wheel and make sure brake -is not dragging. When correct brake adjustment is attained, install -clevis pin in clevis and brake operating lever with plain washer, and -retain with cotter pin. NOTE: <i>Cotter pin must be in good condition.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_61" id="fig_61"></a> -<a name="i_150" id="i_150"></a> -<img src="images/i_150.jpg" width="600" height="624" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310273<br /> -<i>Figure 61—Rear Brake Assembly</i></p></div> - -<p><b>c. Remove Brake Shoes</b> (<a href="#fig_61">fig. 61</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Remove rear wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove brake drum and sprocket assembly. Brake shoes are now -accessible. Do not remove side cover assembly from frame.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Disconnect brake rod clevis at brake operating lever.</p> - -<p>(4) Place end of large screwdriver blade between ends of brake shoes at -pivot stud. Move brake‐operating lever forward to hold brake shoes in -fully expanded position, and pry ends of shoes off pivot stud without -removing brake shoe springs.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Brake Shoes.</b> Observe that brake shoes are made -for upper and lower positions and are not interchangeable. Recess in -end of shoe for pivot stud head determines position of shoe in assembly.</p> - -<p>(1) Engage ends of springs in shoe assembly holes from the inside -before installing shoes on side cover (<a href="#fig_61">fig. 61</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) With brake shoes and springs assembled, install so that ends of -shoes will slip over pivot stud and shaft‐operating cam.</p> - -<p>(3) Connect brake rod clevis to brake operating lever.</p> - -<p>(4) Install brake drum and sprocket assembly. Lock brake to hold drum -in place while installing wheel (<a href="#fig_84">fig. 84</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Install rear wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>). NOTE: <i>If rear chain is in need of -adjustment, it should be done at this time.</i></p> - -<p>(6) To equalize brake shoes, loosen nut on brake shoe adjustable pivot -stud (on outside of brake side plate), and while applying pressure -on brake foot pedal (to “center” the brake shoes within the drum), -retighten the pivot stud nut.</p> - -<p>(7) After new or relined shoes have been installed, check foot pedal -for free play (step <b>b</b> above).</p> - -<h4 id="para_97">97. FRONT WHEEL BRAKE (<a href="#fig_62">fig. 62</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Linkage</b> (<b>control</b>). Handle bar hand lever -control wire which operates front wheel brake can be adjusted and or -replaced. Keep brake control wire lubricated (through oiler in housing -and at ends of housing) with engine oil.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Control Wire.</b> Remove control wire clamp nut -from brake lever clevis, and free lower end of control wire from clevis.</p> - -<p>(1) Remove cotter pin and flat washer from hollow pin, permitting -hollow pin to be pulled out of hand lever. Control wire can now be -pulled out of housing through the hole in hand lever.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install Control Wire.</b> Apply grease or engine oil to -new control wire and insert, through hand lever, into control wire -housing. Use caution when inserting a new control wire into housing, -to prevent wire end from fraying. A frayed wire with loose end strands -will not feed through the housing.</p> - -<p>(1) With control wire in housing, insert hand lever hollow pin so that -narrow slot straddles control wire: then fit flat washer over end of -hollow pin, retaining both with cotter pin.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Insert lower end of control wire through clamp nut, then through -clevis and back through clamp nut again. Grasp end of wire with pliers -and pull until all slack is taken up. Then, while pulling wire snug, -tighten clamp nut securely. Cut off excess wire.</p> - -<p>(3) Adjust brake control (refer to step <b>d</b> below).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_62" id="fig_62"></a> -<img src="images/i_152.jpg" width="600" height="445" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310274<br /> -<i>Figure 62—Front Brake Control and Adjusting Members</i></p></div> - -<p><b>d. Adjusting Front Wheel Brake.</b> End of brake hand lever -must move freely about ¼ of its travel before meeting resistance of -brake operation.</p> - -<p>(1) Loosen adjusting sleeve lock nut and turn adjusting sleeve as -necessary to attain correct free movement of hand lever.</p> - -<p>(2) After correct hand lever adjustment is made, tighten adjusting -sleeve lock nut.</p> - -<p><b>e. Remove Brake Shoes.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>). After front wheel is removed, brake -side cover and shoe assembly is accessible for shoe replacement.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove brake shoes. Brake shoes and springs can be pried off pivot -stud and freed from operating cam without removing springs.</p> - -<p><b>f. Install Brake Shoes.</b> Observe that brake shoes are -made for upper and lower positions and are not interchangeable. Recess -in end of shoe for pivot stud head determines position of shoe in -assembly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Engage ends of springs in shoe holes from the inside before -installing shoes in brake side plate.</p> - -<p>(2) With shoes and springs assembled, install the shoes so that ends of -shoes will slip over pivot stud and shaft operating cam.</p> - -<p>(3) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Loosen nut on brake shoe adjustable pivot stud and while applying -pressure on brake hand lever, retighten pivot stud nut. This is to -center brake shoes within the brake drum.</p> - -<p>(5) After new or relined shoes have been installed, check brake hand -lever and, if necessary, adjust the control wire (step <b>d</b> above).</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XXI"><span class="small sansserif">Section XXI</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">STEERING CONTROL</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XXI"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Forks</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_98">98</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Steering damper</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_99">99</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Handle bars</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_100">100</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Handle bar controls</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_101">101</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_98">98. FORKS (figs. <a href="#fig_63">63</a> and <a href="#fig_64">64</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Either the spring fork can be removed and replaced, or the -complete fork assembly (spring fork and rigid) can be replaced.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Spring Fork</b> (<a href="#fig_63">fig. 63</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove the fork spring rod lock nuts (acorn‐type).</p> - -<p>(3) Sit on front mudguard, or otherwise provide weight, to compress -fork cushion (lower) springs. The spring rod large nuts can then be -easily removed, freeing the upper recoil and upper bumper springs for -removal.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Remove front mudguard (par. <a href="#para_104">104</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Remove spring fork right and left side rocker plate studs. NOTE: -<i>Leave rigid fork rocker studs, with rockers, attached.</i></p> - -<p>(7) Remove spring fork from vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install Spring Fork.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Place buffer springs and lower cushion springs on fork rods. Apply -grease to rods. Pass fork rods up through rigid fork bracket. Bind -lower end of spring fork to lower end of rigid fork with a strap or -piece of heavy wire (<a href="#fig_64">fig. 64</a>), to prevent forks from separating while -compressing cushion springs.</p> - -<p>(2) Install two bolts in the rigid fork brackets which mount the -mudguard; then place a rod about 8 inches long on the brackets to -provide a pry base for the leverage bar when compressing cushion -springs (<a href="#fig_64">fig. 64</a>). With a leverage bar about 18 inches long, anchored -on top of the pry base rod and under the spring fork, lift upward to -compress cushion springs sufficiently to install one of the rocker -plates. Then install the other rocker plate (<a href="#fig_64">fig. 64</a>). NOTE: <i>Left side -spring fork rocker plate stud has a button end which fits into notch in -brake stabilizer plate.</i></p> - -<p>(3) Install mudguard (par. <a href="#para_104">104</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Install front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Install the two spring rod bushings. Install upper bumper springs -and upper recoil springs on the fork rods, applying grease to rods.</p> - -<p>(6) Remove blocks from under vehicle.</p> - -<p>(7) Sit on mudguard to compress fork cushion (lower) springs. Tighten -the two large spring rod nuts sufficiently to provide full thread for -the spring rod lock nuts (acorn‐type). Install spring rod lock nuts and -tighten.</p> - -<p>(8) See that all nuts, bolts, and screws securing lamp bracket, -mudguard, scabbard carrier, and ammunition carrier are tightened -securely.</p> - -<p>(9) Check front wheel brake for operation.</p> - -<p><b>d. Remove Upper Recoil Springs and/or Upper Bumper -Springs.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Remove the fork spring rod lock nuts -(acorn‐type).</p> - -<p>(2) Sit on front mudguard, or otherwise provide weight, to compress -fork cushion (lower) springs. The spring rod large nuts can then be -easily removed, freeing the upper recoil and upper bumper springs for -removal.</p> - -<p><b>e. Install Upper Recoil Springs and/or Upper Bumper -Springs.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Apply grease to fork spring rods and install upper bumper springs.</p> - -<p>(2) Install upper recoil springs over bumper springs on fork spring -rods.</p> - -<p>(3) Sit on front mudguard to compress cushion (lower) springs -sufficiently to start on spring rod large nuts.</p> - -<p>(4) Tighten both spring rod large nuts. Install and tighten the two -spring rod (acorn‐type) lock nuts.</p> - -<p><b>f. Remove and Install Lower Cushion Springs and/or Lower -Buffer Springs.</b> This operation calls for same procedure followed in -removing and installing spring fork (steps <b>b</b> and <b>c</b> above).</p> - -<p><b>g. Remove Complete Fork Assembly.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove ammunition box carrier (par. <a href="#para_103">103</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove scabbard carrier (par. <a href="#para_103">103</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Remove steering damper (par. <a href="#para_99">99</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_63" id="fig_63"></a> -<img src="images/i_156.jpg" width="501" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315728<br /> -<i>Figure 63—Spring Fork Disassembled</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—UPPER (RECOIL) SPRINGS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—UPPER BUMPER SPRINGS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—SPRING ROD LOCK NUTS (ACORN‐TYPE)</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—SPRING ROD BUSHINGS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—LARGE SPRING ROD NUTS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—LOWER CUSHION SPRINGS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—SPRING RODS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—LOWER BUFFER SPRINGS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>J</b>—SPRING FORK ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>K</b>—ROCKER PLATE STUD NUTS AND LOCKS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>L</b>—RIGHT SIDE ROCKER PLATE STUD AND WASHER</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>M</b>—LEFT SIDE ROCKER PLATE STUD (HAS BUTTON END) AND WASHER</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>N</b>—AMMUNITION BOX CARRIER MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>O</b>—HEADLIGHT BRACKET AND MUDGUARD BOLT, WASHER AND NUT (LEFT SIDE)</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>P</b>—FRONT AXLE, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>Q</b>—SCABBARD CARRIER MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>R</b>—HEADLIGHT BRACKET AND MUDGUARD BOLT, MARKER LIGHT GABLE CLIP, WASHER AND NUT (RIGHT SIDE)</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>S</b>—BRAKE SHACKLE BOLT, LOCK AND NUT</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>T</b>—BRAKE AND SIDE COVER ASSEMBLY</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>U</b>—MUDGUARD BRACKET MOUNTING LOCK, WASHER AND NUTS (RIGHT SIDE)</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>V</b>—MUDGUARD AND RIGID FORK MOUNTING SCREWS, WASHERS AND NUTS</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>W</b>—MUDGUARD BRACKET MOUNTING LOCK, WASHER AND NUTS (LEFT SIDE)</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>X</b>—NOTCHES IN MUDGUARD BRACKETS FOR SPECIAL LOCKS</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 3157288<br /> -<i>Legend for Figure 63—Spring Fork Disassembled</i></p> -</div> - -<p>(5) Remove front mudguard, after removing nuts and locks from rear -rocker plate studs, two screws and nuts securing mudguard to rigid -fork, and the two bolts mounting headlight bracket to mudguard. NOTE: -<i>Front mudguard blackout light wire connects to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> ignition and light -switch and care must be exercised not to break this wire if it is not -disconnected from the switch.</i></p> - -<p>(6) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection. Remove -blackout light (par. <a href="#para_114">114</a>). Remove headlight, horn, and bracket assembly -as one unit.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove handle bar brake fittings and brake control wire housing -from side of fork. Remove handle bars after removing handle bar bracket -lock nut and cone lock plate. It is not necessary to disconnect spark -and throttle control wire housings from frame. Unscrew fork upper -adjusting cone from fork stem, freeing fork assembly to be removed -from frame head. NOTE: <i>Steering head ball bearings are loose (not in -retainers) in upper and lower frame head bearing cups. Take care not to -lose balls.</i></p> - -<p><b>h. Install Fork Assembly.</b> With vehicle on rear stand, and -front end up by blocking under frame loop or skid plate, proceed with -installing fork assembly, as follows:</p> - -<p>(1) Thoroughly clean upper and lower frame head bearing cups and pack -with general purpose grease No. 2, installing fifteen <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>–inch ball -bearings in each cup. Work grease thoroughly in between balls.</p> - -<p>(2) See that lower fork stem cone is clean and in place, pass fork stem -up through frame head, turning on upper adjusting cone. Do not try to -adjust bearing cone as yet.</p> - -<p>(3) Install handle bars by locating mounting bracket on ends of fork -sides and center stem, making sure that spark and throttle control wire -housings are in place.</p> - -<p>(4) Adjust upper fork stem adjusting cone so that there is no -perceptible shake in head bearings when handle bars are worked up and -down, and fork does not bind when turned to right and left extremes.</p> - -<p>(5) Install cone lock plate by engaging pin in one of the cone notches.</p> - -<p>(6) Install lock nut on stem and tighten securely. NOTE: <i>Check head -bearing play, as tightening lock nut sometimes makes head bearing too -tight. Readjust if necessary.</i></p> - -<p>(7) Attach handle bar brake fittings and brake control wire housing to -side of fork.</p> - -<p>(8) Reinstall headlight, horn, and bracket assembly. Connect wires (per -wiring diagram <a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>) before front mudguard is reinstalled. Install -blackout light (par. <a href="#para_114">114</a>). Reconnect battery negative ground wire to -frame ground connection.</p> - -<p>(9) Install steering damper (par. <a href="#para_99">99</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_64" id="fig_64"></a> -<img src="images/i_159.jpg" width="389" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310266<br /> -<i>Figure 64—Compressing Cushion Springs for Spring -Fork Assembly</i></p></div> - -<p>(10) Install front mudguard. Attach two screws, washers, and nuts for -rigid fork mounting and two bolts, washers, and nuts for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> headlight -bracket mounting. Fit right and left mudguard brace clip locks to right -and left side rocker plate studs respectively. Do not put on nuts until -after installing ammunition box carrier and scabbard carrier.</p> - -<p>(11) Install front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(12) Install scabbard carrier and ammunition box carrier (par. <a href="#para_103">103</a>).</p> - -<p>(13) Check lights, horn, spark control, throttle control, front brake -control, steering damper control, and steering head bearing for freedom -without binding.</p> - -<p><b>i. Remove Rocker Plate Studs.</b> Studs and/or rocker plates -can be removed and installed in the same operation. In removing -and installing studs, remove only one fork rocker plate at a time, -leaving the other plate attached to opposite side fork ends to hold -fork springs in compressed position. This will eliminate necessity of -compressing fork springs to fit rocker plates on studs.</p> - -<p>(1) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove nuts and locks from rocker plate studs on right side of -vehicle. This releases gun scabbard carrier and mudguard stay clip. -NOTE: <i>Remove the large nut which secures the long stud to rigid fork.</i></p> - -<p>(3) Drive out studs from fork ends, releasing rocker plate.</p> - -<p>(4) Install studs and rocker plate before removing studs from left side -of vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>j. Install Rocker Plate Studs.</b> Apply grease to studs and -insert in rocker plate, then install large flat washers on studs before -mounting this assembly on fork ends. Make sure that short stud is in -front position, and that long stud is in rear position for the rigid -fork.</p> - -<p>(1) Drift studs (with plate assembly) into fork end holes from the -inside.</p> - -<p>(2) Install special nut lock (with half round hole) on front stud and -turn stud as necessary to make lock “cup” over end of fork. Install -and tighten stud nut and bend up end of lock for security. Place lock -washer over long stud and install thick nut, securely tightening it.</p> - -<p>(3) Attach end of gun scabbard carrier and mudguard brace clip with -special lock to long stud, replacing washer and nut.</p> - -<p>(4) After right side rocker plate and/or studs have been installed, -remove and install studs and/or plate on left side of vehicle following -same step‐by‐step procedure as above. The exceptions will be ammunition -box carrier instead of scabbard carrier; also, the left side front stud -is special, having a “button” end.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Install front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_65" id="fig_65"></a> -<img src="images/i_161.jpg" width="600" height="535" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310276<br /> -<i>Figure 65—Steering Damper Assembly</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_99">99. STEERING DAMPER (<a href="#fig_65">fig. 65</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove</b> (<a href="#fig_65">fig. 65</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove front mudguard (par. <a href="#para_104">104</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove lock nut from steering damper rod, then remove upper end -parts in the following order: adjusting nut, keyed steel washer, fiber -washer, operating lever, and actuating sleeve. This entire assembly is -located in the central part of the handle bar mounting bracket.</p> - -<p>(4) Steering damper rod, cushion spring, pressure disk, fiber disk, and -steel disk assembly can now be withdrawn (downward) from fork stem hole.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install</b> (<a href="#fig_65">fig. 65</a>). Before installing steering damper, -make sure that the parts are in correct order on the lower end of the -rod before passing rod up through hole in fork stem. Check parts and -order of assembly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span></p> - -<p>(1) Assemble parts on rod end (<a href="#fig_65">fig. 65</a>), making sure that the bent down -lip of the steel pressure disk engages with notch in end of the rod -lock plate.</p> - -<p>(2) Pass rod with its lower end assembly up through hole in fork stem, -turning steel pressure disk to front position so that “bent‐up” lip -engages with notch in front side of rigid fork crown, at the same time -engaging curved end of steel disk torque arm in slot in underside of -frame head. Maintain pressure against end of rod to keep lower disks in -order while assembling upper rod end parts.</p> - -<p>(3) Install upper rod end assembly in the following order: Small plain -washer, releasing spring, adjusting sleeve screws into end of fork -stem, operating lever registers on the adjusting sleeve, fiber washer, -keyed steel washer registers in rod slot, large adjusting nut, and lock -nut.</p> - -<p>(4) Turn actuating sleeve all the way into fork stem and then back -it out (up) ½ turn or more. Register the operating lever on flat of -actuating sleeve, and see that lever has full movement to the left -without bottoming sleeve in the fork stem.</p> - -<p>(5) Adjust steering damper by setting adjusting (large) nut so that -operating lever must be moved nearly straight back from the free -(left‐side) position, before damper takes noticeable effect (applies -friction to movement of the handle bars). Hold large adjusting nut and -tighten the small lock nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Install front mudguard (par. <a href="#para_104">104</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Install front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_100">100. HANDLE BARS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Complete Assembly.</b> If vehicle is equipped with -handle bar windshield and rear view mirror, remove these accessories -before starting to remove handle bar assembly.</p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever, and spark -control wire at timer lever.</p> - -<p>(2) Release spark control wire housing clip at front cylinder base bolt -(near timer). Also release housing from frame clip on left side of -vehicle. Release throttle control wire housing clip, located at tank, -lower front connection bolt.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove front brake hand lever fittings from handle bars. Also -release brake control wire housing at handle bar clamp.</p> - -<p>(4) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection and -wires at headlight. Headlight must be removed for access to the two -terminal screws (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Disconnect horn wire leading to handle bars and red wire (terminal -No. 17, <a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>) leading to handle bars.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span></p> - -<p>(6) Remove steering damper rod upper end fittings in the following -order: Lock nut, adjusting nut, keyed steel washer, fiber washer, -operating lever, and operating sleeve (screws into end of fork stem). -Removal of these parts gives access to handle bar lock nut. Remove -handle bar lock nut and cone lock plate.</p> - -<p>(7) Loosen handle bar bracket‐fork end pinch bolts. Handle bars are now -free to be drifted off ends of fork sides and center stem.</p> - -<p>(8) Remove handle bar windshield apron spring guard after handle bars -are removed from vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install Complete Assembly.</b> If vehicle is equipped with -handle bar windshield and rear view mirror, attach these accessories -after handle bar assembly is installed.</p> - -<p>(1) Attach windshield apron spring guard to handle bar bracket. Do not -tighten bolt nut until after handle bars are installed.</p> - -<p>(2) Start handle bar bracket holes over ends of fork, seeing that spark -control wire housing is on right side of frame head: then drive handle -bars onto fork ends, using a rawhide mallet, or a hammer and wood block.</p> - -<p>(3) To install cone lock plate, enter registering pin through hole in -handle bars and engage notch in the adjusting cone. Install and tighten -handle bar lock nut securely. CAUTION: <i>When tightening this nut, -always make sure that register (shoulder) of nut enters hole in lock -plate and handle bars.</i></p> - -<p>(4) Check adjustment of head bearing. The fork must turn freely but -without perceptible shake. Readjust head cone to obtain proper bearing -adjustment if necessary.</p> - -<p>(5) Tighten handle bar bracket‐fork end pinch bolts.</p> - -<p>(6) Position windshield apron guard so that it clears fork springs. -Securely tighten mounting bolt nut.</p> - -<p>(7) Install steering damper upper end fittings (<a href="#fig_65">fig. 65</a>). Make sure -that lower end disks and plates are properly engaged. Adjust (par. <a href="#para_99">99</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) Connect handle bar wires to terminal plate, horn, and headlight. -Consult wiring diagram (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>). Install headlight. Adjust beam and -secure mounting nut (par. <a href="#para_114">114</a>). Connect battery negative ground wire to -frame connection.</p> - -<p>(9) Check operation of lights and horn, tactical situation permitting.</p> - -<p>(10) Attach front brake hand lever fittings to left handle bar. Secure -control wire housing in handle bar clamp, just ahead of housing oiler. -Check front brake for correct operation and, if necessary, adjust (par. -<a href="#para_97">97</a>).</p> - -<p>(11) Pass spark control wire housing along left side of frame front -tube, between cylinders (under carburetor) to position housing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> end -clamp on cylinder stud near timer. Secure clamp under cylinder stud -nut. Secure wire cable under clamp on left side of frame front tube, -with white paint mark slightly ahead of clamp front edge. Engage end of -spark control wire in timer lever and adjust spark control (par. <a href="#para_88">88</a>).</p> - -<p>(12) Pass throttle control wire housing along right side of frame -front tube and over top of front cylinder head to reach carburetor -connection. Install tank (lower front) mounting bolt to secure wire -housing clamp. See that white paint mark on wire housing is slightly -ahead of clamp, then secure bolt nut on left side of vehicle. Engage -end of throttle control wire in throttle lever and adjust (par. <a href="#para_69">69</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_66" id="fig_66"></a> -<img src="images/i_164.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310282<br /> -<i>Figure 66—Removing Handle Bar Grip Sleeve Retaining Nut</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_101">101. HANDLE BAR CONTROLS (figs. <a href="#fig_66">66</a> and <a href="#fig_67">67</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Construction of the throttle and spark controls is the same, -thus replacing a control wire or wire housing follows the same general -procedure up to the point where control adjustment is made. Handle bar -grip sleeves (spirals) are interchangeable.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Throttle Control Wire</b> (<a href="#fig_67">fig. 67</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect control wire at throttle lever connection.</p> - -<p>(2) Insert blade of a large, square‐shank screwdriver through hole in -end of grip and turn out end nut by using a wrench on the shank of the -screwdriver (<a href="#fig_66">fig. 66</a>). Sometimes this nut is difficult to remove. In -this case, insert punch into the slot in the nut and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> strike punch two -or three sharp blows to “free” nut in handle bar end threads. Remove -nut as above. NOTE: <i>Nut remains inside the grip and is removed with -the grip and spiral sleeve assembly.</i></p> - -<p>(3) Remove grip and spiral assembly from handle bars. Control wire and -working parts are now accessible.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove plain roller from pin. Remove roller block from pin. Remove -pin from plunger.</p> - -<p>(5) Pull plunger with wire attached out of handle bar end. Remove -hexagon head screw which secures wire to plunger. NOTE: <i>If wire is -broken, remove other half from housing at carburetor connection end.</i></p> - -<p>(6) Remove any rust, dirt, or gum from grip spiral, handle bar end, -wire plunger, and inside of handle bar where plunger operates.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_67" id="fig_67"></a> -<img src="images/i_165.jpg" width="600" height="219" alt="" /> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>A</b>—END NUT.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>B</b>—GRIP.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>C</b>—GRIP SLEEVE ASSEMBLY.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>D</b>—ROLLER PIN.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>E</b>—ROLLER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>F</b>—ROLLER BLOCK.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>G</b>—PLUNGER.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—CONTROL WIRE.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>I</b>—WIRE RETAINING NUT.</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310263<br /> -<i>Figure 67—Handle Bar Grip and Wire Control, Disassembled</i></p></div> - -<p><b>c. Install Throttle Control Wire</b> (<a href="#fig_67">fig. 67</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Pass hollow screw over control wire with threaded end of hollow -screw facing button on end of wire. Install screw in end of plunger. -Securely tighten screw.</p> - -<p>(2) Apply grease or engine oil to control wire and insert end into -control wire housing.</p> - -<p>(3) Apply grease to plunger and push plunger and wire into handle bar -until plunger pin hole is exposed in handle bar slot. Work plunger or -turn it within handle bar so that pin hole and flat side are upward and -are centered in slot; then insert roller pin into plunger hole, roller -block (with flat sides), and roller in order named. Apply grease to -plunger pin and roller and to outside of handle bar end.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Install grip and spiral assembly by engaging plunger roller in -spiral opening in end of grip sleeve. Grip spiral sleeve nut can best -be started without danger of cross threading, by holding grip assembly -back slightly while starting nut in handle bar end. This squares nut -with end of grip sleeve, alining threads. Securely tighten nut with -screwdriver and wrench.</p> - -<p>(5) Connect control wire at throttle lever connection. Adjust control -(par. <a href="#para_69">69</a>).</p> - -<p><b>d. Remove Spark Control Wire</b> (<a href="#fig_67">fig. 67</a>). Disconnect -control wire at timer lever and follow procedure outlined under step -<b>b</b> above.</p> - -<p><b>e. Install Spark Control Wire</b> (<a href="#fig_67">fig. 67</a>). Follow procedure -outlined under step c above, then connect control wire at timer lever -and adjust control (par. <a href="#para_88">88</a>).</p> - -<p><b>f. Remove and Install Control Wire Housings.</b> Remove -either control wire housing after following procedure outlined above -(step b), then remove set screw on under side of handle bar, just -ahead of grip sleeve shoulder. NOTE: <i>Set screw for spark control wire -housing is located under headlight dimmer switch.</i> After set screw is -removed and housing freed from attaching clamps, housing can be pushed -out through end of handle bar.</p> - -<p>(1) When installing control wire housings, see that housing end is -secured in handle bar with set screw, and that housing is correctly -attached to vehicle clamps.</p> - -<p>(2) Install control wire and grip (step <b>c</b> above) and adjust -controls: spark (par. <a href="#para_88">88</a>), throttle (par. <a href="#para_69">69</a>).</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XXII"><span class="small sansserif">Section XXII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">SHEET METAL AND EQUIPMENT</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XXII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Chain guards</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_102">102</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Carriers</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_103">103</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Mudguards</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_104">104</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Battery box</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_105">105</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tool box</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_106">106</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tanks</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_107">107</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Stands</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_108">108</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Saddle post</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_109">109</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Safety guards</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_110">110</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Skid plate</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_111">111</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_102">102. CHAIN GUARDS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Outer Front Chain Guard</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_68">68</a> and <a href="#fig_69">69</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Remove nut and washer which secures center of chain guard and skid -plate left‐side support bracket.</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen skid plate support bracket lower bolt and nut and remove -bracket from stud.</p> - -<p>(3) Loosen the nut which secures footboard rear stud to sidebar, then -remove nut which secures footboard front stud to sidebar. Pull front -end of footboard away from sidebar so that stud will clear end of -safety guard.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove extended nut which secures sidebar to frame front support -rod.</p> - -<p>(5) Disconnect clutch control cable end at clutch foot pedal by -removing cotter pin and plain washer from stud.</p> - -<p>(6) Left side footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly can -now be removed. If rear end of sidebar is lowered, the front end will -clear end of safety guard.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove cotter pin, nut, spring, washer, and bolt from chain guard -rear mounting. Outer front chain guard can now be removed, exposing -engine sprocket, front drive chain, and clutch assembly.</p> - -<p id="para_102b"><b>b. Install Outer Front Chain Guard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Locate outer front chain guard on center support stud (frame rear -support rod end). Line up rear mounting bracket with frame bracket.</p> - -<p>(2) Install bolt, washer, spring, nut, and cotter pin to secure rear -mounting.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span></p> - -<p>(3) Install footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly on frame -support rod ends.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_68" id="fig_68"></a> -<img src="images/i_168.jpg" width="600" height="494" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310264<br /> -<i>Figure 68—Left Footboard Assembly Removed</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_69" id="fig_69"></a> -<img src="images/i_168bot.jpg" width="600" height="443" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315729<br /> -<i>Figure 69—Outer Front Chain Guard Removed</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Attach front end of sidebar. Install extended nut and lock washer -to secure front sidebar and support rod mounting.</p> - -<p>(5) Install skid plate support bracket on support rod (in center of -chain guard), tightening nut on bolt. Install nut and lock washer which -secure skid plate bracket and chain guard on rear support rod. Tighten -nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Pull front end of footboard away from sidebar so that hole in end -of safety guard lines up with hole in sidebar, then pass footboard stud -through both pieces, installing washer and securing stud nut. Tighten -footboard rear stud nut.</p> - -<p>(7) Attach brake control cable end to foot pedal stud.</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Rear Chain Guard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove cap screw which secures rear chain oil pipe clamp, and -provides mounting for front end of chain guard on transmission sprocket -cover. Remove chain guard.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove chain guard from rear mounting by pushing the guard back so -that stud (with washers and spring) slips out of mounting clip notch.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Rear Chain Guard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Locate rear chain guard in position for mounting. Spread the large -washer on the rear stud to engage clip notch. Push guard forward until -front end hole lines up with chain oiler pipe clamp, then install cap -screw and washer, securing guard and clip to sprocket cover.</p> - -<h4 id="para_103">103. CARRIERS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Ammunition Box Carrier.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove nut and screw which secures carrier bracket to front -mudguard.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove nut and lock washer from rocker plate rear stud. This frees -lower end of carrier.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove nut, washer, cable clip, and plain washer from rigid fork -stud. Remove carrier and box.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install Ammunition Box Carrier.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Locate hole in lower end of bracket on rocker plate rear stud. -Attach upper end of bracket to rigid fork stud. Replace lock washers -and nuts. Tighten nuts.</p> - -<p>(2) Attach carrier bracket to front mudguard with screw, washer, and -nut. Tighten nut.</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove and Install Scabbard Carrier.</b> The procedure for -removing and installing scabbard carrier is the same as outlined for -ammunition box carrier, except that scabbard carrier is on left side of -vehicle. Follow procedure outlined under steps <b>a</b> and <b>b</b> -above.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span></p> - -<p><b>d. Remove Luggage Carrier.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Loosen straps of both saddlebags, and remove saddlebags from -keyhole notches in luggage carrier side plates. Remove nuts from right -and left side mounting studs, which secure luggage carrier to frame -clips. Deflate rear wheel tire so that a piece of wood or suitable -object can be used to depress top part of tire under mudguard, to -provide clearance, and access to the three nuts which secure screws for -luggage carrier mudguard mounting. NOTE: <i>If rear wheel is removed, -mounting screws are accessible.</i></p> - -<p>(2) Remove the three luggage carrier center mounting screws. Remove -luggage carrier from vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>e. Install Luggage Carrier.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Mount luggage carrier on frame clip studs. Install washers and -nuts. With rear tire deflated and depressed for clearance under -mudguard, install the three screws, lock washers, and nuts for -carrier‐mudguard mounting. NOTE: <i>If rear wheel is removed, mounting -screws are accessible.</i></p> - -<p>(2) Tighten frame stud nuts to secure both sides of carrier.</p> - -<p>(3) Attach saddlebags and securely strap to frame stays.</p> - -<p>(4) Inflate tire to 20 pounds.</p> - -<h4 id="para_104">104. MUDGUARDS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Front Mudguard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>), disconnect front mudguard -blackout marker light wire at switch. Pull wire out, free from tanks.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove the two screws and nuts from rigid fork and mudguard -mounting. Remove the two screws and nuts securing lamp bracket to -mudguard.</p> - -<p>(4) Remove bolt and nut which secure ammunition box carrier to mudguard.</p> - -<p>(5) Remove bolt and nut which secure gun scabbard carrier to mudguard.</p> - -<p>(6) Remove nuts from fork left rocker plate stud. These nuts secure -ammunition box lower bracket, and mudguard stay clip. Remove nuts from -fork right rocker plate stud. These nuts secure gun scabbard carrier -lower bracket, and mudguard stay clip.</p> - -<p>(7) Pull carrier brackets off rocker plate studs. Remove mudguard brace -clip locks from slots in clips so that mudguard can be dropped. When -removing mudguard from vehicle, take care not to break and/or damage -blackout light wire.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span></p> - -<p><b>b. Install Front Mudguard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Locate mudguard in mounting position. Engage slots in stay clips -on rocker plate studs, installing the special locks in the clip slots. -NOTE: <i>Brace clip locks are made for right and left side installation. -Secure both clip locks with stud nuts.</i></p> - -<p>(2) Attach ends of ammunition and scabbard carriers to rocker plate -studs. Secure with lock washers and nuts.</p> - -<p>(3) Mount mudguard to rigid fork bracket. Tighten the two screws, -washers, and nuts.</p> - -<p>(4) Attach lower end of headlight bracket to mudguard with two bolts, -washers, and nuts.</p> - -<p>(5) Attach ammunition box carrier bracket to mudguard. Tighten bolt, -washer, and nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Attach gun scabbard carrier bracket to mudguard. Tighten bolt, -washer, and nut.</p> - -<p>(7) Reinstall front wheel and brake assembly (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) Connect mudguard blackout light wire to switch terminal. Refer to -wiring diagram, <a href="#fig_73">figure 73</a>.</p> - -<p>(9) Install instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Rear Mudguard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Remove rear wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Remove luggage carrier (par. <a href="#para_103">103</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Remove rear chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Remove the two U‐bolt nuts which mount safety guard at upper frame -bracket. Then pull safety guard away from studs and remove studs from -frame bracket, freeing mudguard at this point. NOTE: <i>These two studs -screw into a “plate” nut.</i></p> - -<p>(5) Remove bolt and nut which secure battery box left‐side bracket to -mudguard.</p> - -<p>(6) Remove bolt and nut which secure battery box right‐side bracket. -This bolt also secures lower tool box bracket and speedometer cable -clip to mudguard.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove nut and washers from bolt which secures lower end of -mudguard to frame (behind transmission).</p> - -<p>(8) Remove taillight connector plugs from sockets and remove cable from -mudguard spring clips.</p> - -<p>(9) Remove nuts from studs which secure right‐ and left‐side mudguard -brace clips to frame axle clips. Mudguard can now be removed from -vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Rear Mudguard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Locate mudguard in position for mounting. Install the two studs, -washers, and nuts which secure right‐ and left‐side brace clips<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> to -frame axle clips. NOTE: <i>If brake side cover interferes with locating -nut on right side, loosen the brake sleeve nut and push brake side -cover assembly inward for clearance. Be sure to retighten brake sleeve -nut.</i></p> - -<p>(2) Attach front lower end of mudguard. Install flat washer, lock -washer, and nut on bolt to secure lower end of mudguard to frame (in -back of transmission).</p> - -<p>(3) Install the two studs which mount mudguard and upper battery box -bracket on frame bracket. These two studs screw into a plate nut -located underneath the battery box bracket. Removing the battery box -cover will give more access to plate nut in this step. Install battery -box cover if it is removed for this job.</p> - -<p>(4) Attach rear safety guard to the two frame bracket studs. Install -washers and nuts. Securely tighten nuts and tighten U‐bolt nuts, which -secure ends of safety guard to frame stays.</p> - -<p>(5) Attach battery box bracket to mudguard bracket. Install bolt, -washer, and nut which secure battery box right‐side bracket, tool box -bracket lower end, and speedometer cable clip to mudguard bracket. Bolt -is inserted from front side, head toward engine. NOTE: <i>Speedometer -cable clip is under head of bolt.</i></p> - -<p>(6) Attach left‐side mudguard bracket and battery box bracket. Install -bolt, washer, and nut which secure battery box left‐side bracket to -mudguard bracket. Bolt is inserted from front side, head toward engine.</p> - -<p>(7) Install rear chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) Locate and retain taillight cable in mudguard spring clips. Attach -connector plugs to taillights (wiring diagram, <a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>).</p> - -<p>(9) Install luggage carrier (par. <a href="#para_103">103</a>).</p> - -<p>(10) Install rear wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>).</p> - -<p>(11) Securely tighten all bolts and nuts.</p> - -<h4 id="para_105">105. BATTERY BOX.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Battery Box.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove battery (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) To remove rear brake rod, disconnect clevis from brake lever, and -free front end of rod at brake shaft bell crank.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove rear chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Remove tool box and bracket in one piece (par. <a href="#para_106">106</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Remove nut and bolt securing left side lower battery box mounting -to mudguard bracket. Remove nut and bolt securing battery front -mounting to frame saddle post tube bracket.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span></p> - -<p>(6) Remove the two nuts securing rear safety guard center connection -to mounting studs. Unscrew mounting studs to free the plate nut which -clamps the battery box bracket to frame cross member.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove battery box from right side of vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install Battery Box.</b> Locate battery box in vehicle -from left side and secure upper rear mounting bracket with the two -frame cross member studs and the plate nut. Install washers and nuts -which secure safety guard to these same two studs.</p> - -<p>(1) Install bolt to secure battery box front mounting to frame tube. -Make sure that bolt passes through frame tube bracket from left side, -and that large plain washer bears against battery box front bracket -(bracket has open end). Tighten nut to secure box bracket to frame tube -bracket.</p> - -<p>(2) Install tool box and bracket (par. <a href="#para_106">106</a>).</p> - -<p>(3) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure battery box left‐side -mounting to mudguard. Insert bolt from the front.</p> - -<p>(4) Install rear chain guard (par. <a href="#para_102">102</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Connect rear brake rod end to bell crank fitting. Attach clevis to -brake operating lever, installing plain washer, clevis pin, and cotter -pin.</p> - -<p>(6) Install battery (par. <a href="#para_113">113</a>).</p> - -<h4 id="para_106">106. TOOL BOX.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. General.</b> When tool box only is to be removed and/or -installed, it is a simple matter to open box and remove and/or install -the three large screws. Gear‐toothed lock washers and large recessed -washers fit under screw heads.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Box and Bracket Assembly.</b> Remove bolt and nut -which secure tool box upper mounting bracket to frame clip. Lower end -of mounting bracket, battery box bracket, and speedometer cable are -all secured to the mudguard bracket by the same bolt and nut. Remove -speedometer cable from clip and remove bolt and nut, freeing tool box -and bracket assembly for removal. NOTE: <i>Removal of rear brake rod will -make bracket lower mounting bolt and nut more accessible.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Install Box and Bracket Assembly.</b> Locate box and -bracket assembly on vehicle and install bolt, washer, and nut at the -upper frame clip mounting. To attach bracket lower end to mudguard -bracket, place bolt through speedometer cable clip, then through box -mounting bracket, battery box bracket, and mudguard bracket, securing -assembly with lock washer and nut.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_70" id="fig_70"></a> -<img src="images/i_174.jpg" width="600" height="510" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310245<br /> -<i>Figure 70—Fuel and Oil Tanks Removed</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_107">107. TANKS (<a href="#fig_70">fig. 70</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. General.</b> Fuel and oil tanks are separate, fitting -together, saddle‐type, in upper frame tubes, and are retained in -position with three mounting bolts. Either tank can be removed and/or -installed without disturbing line connections of the other tank.</p> - -<p><b>b. Fuel Tank.</b> Fuel tank is located on left side of -vehicle and holds slightly over 3 U.S. gallons. It provides mounting -for shifter lever and shifter lever guide. Drain is located in forward -position on under side of tank.</p> - -<p><b>c. Oil Tank.</b> Oil tank is located on right side of vehicle -and holds 1 U.S. gallon. Oil feed pipe, scavenger (return) pipe, and -breather pipe connections are on under side of tank. Drain is located -in forward position on under side of tank.</p> - -<p><b>d. Remove Fuel Tank.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen the two cap screws which secure caution plate and tank top -strip.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Disconnect gear shifter lever and shifter rod by removing bolt.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span></p> - -<p>(5) Shut off fuel supply. Disconnect fuel pipe at tank union nipple.</p> - -<p>(6) Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the two front (one -upper and one lower) mounting bolts, and nut, lock washer, and flat -washer from the rear mounting bolt. Leave bolts in place so that oil -tank will stay in position after fuel tank is removed. Remove fuel tank -from vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>e. Install Fuel Tank.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Position fuel tank on vehicle. Pass the three mounting bolts -through tank brackets from right side of vehicle. It will be necessary -to pry up on tank top strip in order to slip top edge of tank under -strip. Install large flat washers, lock washers, and nuts on mounting -bolts and securely tighten the nuts.</p> - -<p>(2) Tighten the two cap screws, securing caution plate and tank top -strip.</p> - -<p>(3) Connect fuel pipe at tank nipple union. Open supply valve.</p> - -<p>(4) Install instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Connect gear shifter lever and shifter rod by installing bolt, lock -washer, and nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.</p> - -<p>(7) After fuel tank has been filled, check pipe connection and drain -plug for leaks.</p> - -<p><b>f. Remove Oil Tank.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen the two cap screws which secure caution plate and tank top -strip.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p>(4) Drain oil from tank by removing drain plug. Use a trough (of -cardboard or tin) to keep oil from draining on engine. NOTE: <i>If oil -feed pipe nipple cap (manufacturer’s (H–D) No. 3583–15) is available, -it can be screwed on to tank nipple, thus eliminating draining of oil.</i></p> - -<p>(5) Disconnect oil feed pipe at rear nipple union.</p> - -<p>(6) Disconnect scavenger (return) pipe at nipple union.</p> - -<p>(7) Disconnect breather pipe banjo‐type connection by taking out bolt.</p> - -<p>(8) Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the two front -(one upper and one lower) mounting bolts, and nut, lock washer, and -flat washer from rear mounting bolt. NOTE: <i>To prevent fuel tank -from falling out of frame, remove upper front mounting bolt and rear -mounting bolt and pass both back through fuel tank mounting brackets -from the left side of vehicle. Oil tank can then be removed, and fuel -tank will stay in place.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span></p> - -<p><b>g. Install Oil Tank.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Position oil tank on vehicle. Make sure that composition buffer is -in place before installing mounting bolts from right side of vehicle. -Pry up on tank top strip in order to slip top edge of tank under strip.</p> - -<p>(2) Install large flat washers, lock washers, and nuts on mounting -bolts. Securely tighten the nuts.</p> - -<p>(3) Tighten the two cap screws securing caution plate and tank top -strip.</p> - -<p>(4) Connect oil feed pipe to tank nipple. Tank nipple is located at -lower rear end of tank.</p> - -<p>(5) Connect scavenger (return) pipe to tank nipple. Nipple is located -underneath tank, near center.</p> - -<p>(6) Connect breather pipe with banjo‐type fitting to tank. Use hollow -bolt, making sure flat washers are in place on both sides of banjo -fitting and that mounting bolt is tight.</p> - -<p>(7) Install instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p>(8) See that oil tank drain plug and washer are in place, and that the -plug is tight.</p> - -<p>(9) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.</p> - -<p>(10) After filling oil tank, check all pipe fittings for leaks.</p> - -<h4 id="para_108">108. STANDS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Rear Stand.</b> Remove nuts which secure rear stand -mounting bolts. Drift bolts out of frame clip holes, freeing stand.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install Rear Stand.</b> Locate stand in position so that -bracket stop is downward and will bear against frame axle clips to -support vehicle when stand is in use. See that cupped spring washers -are on mounting bolts before attaching stand to frame. Drift mounting -bolts into frame axle clips and secure with lock washers and nuts.</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Jiffy Stand.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut. Remove footboard front -support rod nut and pull footboard outward to release end of safety -guard. Remove extended nut from footboard sidebar front mounting. -Remove nut securing upper end of skid plate hanger and sidebar rear -mounting (located in center of chain guard cover). Loosen nut and bolt -which secure skid plate hanger bracket to skid plate: drop bracket. -Disconnect clutch control cable from foot pedal stud to prevent damage -to cable end piece. Remove left footboard, clutch foot pedal, and -sidebar assembly from support rod ends.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_71" id="fig_71"></a> -<img src="images/i_177.jpg" width="398" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310269<br /> -<i>Figure 71—Saddle and Suspension</i></p></div> - -<p>(3) Remove the two nuts from U‐bolt which secure safety guard bracket -to frame tube, remove bracket from U‐bolt, and slide safety guard -assembly out of support rod.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Jiffy Stand.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Install safety guard assembly on support rod and secure mounting -bracket to frame tube with U‐bolt, washers, and nuts.</p> - -<p>(2) Install footboard, clutch foot pedal, and sidebar assembly. Attach -skid plate hanger bracket and secure to support rod. Attach<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> clutch -control cable end to foot pedal stud, installing plain washer and -cotter pin. Install washer and extended nut on end of front support -rod. Securely tighten nut. Attach front end of sidebar to end of -safety guard by pulling front of footboard outward, alining hole in -safety guard end with hole in sidebar, and passing footboard front -support stud through both parts, securing with washer and nut. Tighten -footboard rear support stud nut.</p> - -<p>(3) Return vehicle to operating position.</p> - -<h4 id="para_109">109. SADDLE POST (<a href="#fig_71">fig. 71</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Saddle is mounted on saddle bar by means of three mounting -bolts and can be shifted forward or backward to provide three positions -on saddle bar. Spacer collars can be added and or removed from the -two rear mountings to raise or lower rear of saddle to alter riding -position. Saddle bar hinges on frame bracket and is clevis‐connected -to saddle spring post. Saddle and saddle bar can be lifted upward and -forward after releasing spring latch (on left side) from groove in -clevis pin end and removing clevis pin from saddle bar.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove Saddle Spring Post.</b> Support vehicle on rear -stand. Raise saddle and saddle bar after removing saddle post clevis -pin. Remove bolt and nut from left‐side skid plate bracket and remove -nut to free right‐side skid plate bracket at muffler pipe clamp and -frame connection. Drop skid plate. Remove saddle spring post clamp nut, -which is located underneath frame at bottom end of saddle post frame -tube. Saddle spring post assembly can be pulled upward out of frame -tube.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install Saddle Spring Post.</b> When saddle spring post -assembly is inserted in frame tube, see that flat side machined on post -rod end nut registers in flat side of hole in bottom of frame tube. -Install and securely tighten saddle spring post clamp nut at bottom end -of frame tube. Lift skid plate and secure in position with left‐side -bracket bolt, washer, and nut and with right bracket bolt, washer, and -nut (this also secures muffler pipe clamp to frame clip). Lower saddle -and saddle bar into position. Insert clevis pin from right side and -secure with spring latch, making sure that spring is in pin groove.</p> - -<h4 id="para_110">110. SAFETY GUARDS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove Front Safely Guard.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Loosen nuts which secure right and left footboard rear support -studs to sidebars. Remove nuts which secure right and left footboard -front support studs (and mount ends of safety guard) to sidebars. Pull -front end of each footboard outward so that support stud will free end -of safety guard. Remove four nuts from the two U‐bolts which mount -safety guard upper bracket to frame tube. Remove safety guard.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span></p> - -<p><b>b. Install Front Safety Guard.</b> Locate safety guard and -mount upper bracket to frame tube with the two U‐bolts, washers, and -nuts, but do not tighten nuts as yet. Pull front end of right footboard -outward, line up hole in safety guard end with hole in sidebar, and -pass footboard front support stud through both parts, securing with -washer and nut. Follow same procedure to mount left end of safety -guard. Tighten U‐bolt nuts securely.</p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Rear Safety Guard.</b> Remove nuts from U‐bolts -which mount ends of safety guard to lower frame stays. Remove the two -nuts from upper safety guard mounting. After removing U‐bolts, safety -guard can be removed from vehicle.</p> - -<p><b>d. Install Rear Safety Guard.</b> Position safety guard on -vehicle. Install U‐bolts, washers, and nuts for lower end mounting on -frame stays. Do not tighten nuts. Engage upper mounting holes on studs -and replace washers and nuts. Tighten all mounting nuts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_72" id="fig_72"></a> -<img src="images/i_179.jpg" width="600" height="355" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310234<br /> -<i>Figure 72—Showing Skid Plate Dropped</i></p></div> - -<h4 id="para_111">111. SKID PLATE.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Rear end of skid plate must be dropped when removing and -or replacing muffler assembly, saddle spring post, transmission, and -engine.</p> - -<p><b>b. Drop Skid Plate</b> (<a href="#fig_72">fig. 72</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Remove nut from bolt which secures skid plate side mounting bracket -to frame clip. This bolt also mounts muffler tube clamp to frame clip.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span></p> - -<p>(2) Remove left side mounting. Remove nut and bolt which secures lower -end of hanger bracket to skid plate on left side of vehicle. Drop rear -end of skid plate.</p> - -<p><b>c. Install Dropped Skid Plate.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Lift rear end of skid plate into position. Attach right‐side -bracket at frame clip bolt. Secure mounting with washer and nut.</p> - -<p>(2) Attach lower end of left‐side hanger bracket to skid plate. Install -bolt, washer, and nut. Tighten nut.</p> - -<p><b>d. Remove and/or Install Skid Plate.</b></p> - -<p>(1) To remove skid plate from vehicle, follow instructions in step b -above; then remove nut and bolt from U‐clamp which secures skid plate -to frame bracket, and remove nut and belt from clamp which secures -right front end to support rod.</p> - -<p>(2) To install skid plate, mount right front end to support rod clamp, -and install bolt and nut to secure U‐clamp under frame bracket. Then -follow instructions in step <b>c</b> above.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XXIII"><span class="small sansserif">Section XXIII</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">BATTERY, LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORN</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XXIII"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_112">112</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Battery</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_113">113</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Headlights</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_114">114</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Taillights</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_115">115</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Ignition and light switch</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_116">116</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Horn</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_117">117</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Wiring</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_118">118</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_112">112. DESCRIPTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Lighting system and horn are supplied 6‐volt current from -the 22‐ampere‐hour battery. Negative side of battery and system is -grounded. Blackout lights and service lights are controlled by the -same switch (ignition and light switch) which also controls ignition. -Blackout headlight has auxiliary control switch in body. Service -headlight upper and lower beam is controlled by toggle switch on -left handle bar. Horn is operated by button on left handle bar after -ignition and light switch is in “ON” position. Blackout stop light and -service stop light are operated by brake foot pedal switch.</p> - -<h4 id="para_113">113. BATTERY.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> The 3‐cell, 15‐plate, 6‐volt, 22‐ampere‐hour battery is -located in battery box back of frame seat post tube, and is accessible -for inspection and or service after removing box cover. Normally -charged battery has specific gravity reading of 1.275. Normally -discharged battery has specific gravity of 1.150.</p> - -<p><b>b. Check Electrolyte Level</b> (<a href="#fig_74">fig. 74</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Raise saddle and bar assembly after releasing and removing swivel -pin.</p> - -<p>(2) Loosen wing thumb nuts on box top hold‐down studs sufficiently to -disengage bracket slots, then lift off box cover.</p> - -<p>(3) Remove the three filler plugs. Check and or adjust electrolyte -level. See that electrolyte level is <sup>5</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub> inch above plates. If -necessary, bring electrolyte to that level, using clean, drinkable -water.</p> - -<p>(4) Clean top of battery before installing box cover.</p> - -<p>(5) Clean terminals or posts, if corroded. Make sure that the felt -washers are on posts and are saturated with engine oil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Remove Battery.</b> Raise saddle and bar assembly. Release -and remove swivel pin. Loosen wing thumb nuts on box top hold‐down -studs sufficiently to disengage bracket slots, then lift off box cover. -Disconnect positive and negative wires from battery terminals. Lift -battery upward out of battery box.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_73" id="fig_73"></a> -<img src="images/i_182.jpg" width="376" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310278<br /> -<i>Figure 73—Complete Wiring Diagram</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">1. SWITCH TERMINAL (Three Wires connected)—<b>Black</b> wire from -blackout marker light 24; taillight cable <b>green</b> wire from -blackout taillight 22; single wire direct from blackout headlight -as shown by dotted line in illustration 43, or horn and headlight -cable <b>black</b> wire from junction terminal 35 as shown in -illustration 44.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">2. SWITCH TERMINAL (Four wires connected)—Generator and relay -cable <b>green</b> wire from “<b>switch</b>” terminal (14) of -generator; taillight cable <b>black</b> wire from service stop -and taillight (23); horn and headlight cable <b>red</b> wire from -junction terminal 17; <b>black</b> wire from speedometer light (11).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">3. SWITCH TERMINAL (Two wires connected)—Generator and relay cable -<b>red</b> wire from terminal marked “BAT” on relay; coil and -battery cable <b>red</b> wire from junction terminal 18.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">4. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—<b>Black</b> wire from oil -signal light terminal (10).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">5. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Taillight cable -<b>yellow</b> wire from blackout stop lamp (21).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">6. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Battery and coil cable -<b>black</b> wire from junction terminal 19.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">7. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Taillight cable <b>red</b> -wire from service stop and taillight (23).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">8. GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Generator -and relay cable <b>black</b> wire from relay right front terminal.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">9. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (One wire -connected)—<b>Black</b> wire from oil pressure switch (16).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">10. SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (Four wires connected)—<b>Black</b> wire -(under switch panel) from generator signal light terminal (8); -<b>black</b> wire from switch terminal (4); battery and coil cable -<b>green</b> wire from coil front terminal; horn and headlight -cable <b>green</b> wire from horn.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">11. SPEEDOMETER LIGHT—<b>Black</b> wire from switch terminal 2.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">12. BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL (LEFT SIDE)—<b>Red</b> wire with -<b>black</b> tracer from junction terminal 18.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">13. BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (RIGHT SIDE)—<b>Black</b> wire from -ground clamp on frame.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">14. “SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR—Generator and relay cable -<b>green</b> wire from switch terminal 2.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">15. “RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR—<b>Red</b> wire with <b>black -tracer</b> from relay rear terminal.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">16. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL SWITCH—<b>Black</b> wire from signal light -terminal 9.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">17. JUNCTION TERMINAL (BAKELITE TERMINAL PLATE ON HORN -MOUNTING)—Horn and headlight cable <b>red</b> wire from switch -terminal 2,—<b>red</b> wire with <b>black tracer</b> from -handlebar toggle switch (31).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">18. FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL (in motorcycle frame, under -saddle)—Coil and battery cable <b>red</b> wire from switch -terminal 3; <b>red</b> wire with <b>black tracer</b> from battery -positive terminal (12).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">19. REAR JUNCTION TERMINAL (in motorcycle frame, under -saddle)—Coil and battery cable <b>black</b> wire from switch -terminal 6; <b>red</b> wire from stop light switch (20).</span></p></div> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310278B -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">20. STOP LIGHT SWITCH—<b>Red</b> wire from junction terminal 19; -<b>green</b> wire from coil terminal.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">21. BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT (Top socket in right taillight)—Taillight -cable <b>yellow</b> wire from switch terminal 5.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">22. BLACKOUT TAILLIGHTS—Taillight cable <b>green</b> wire from -switch terminal 1.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">23. SERVICE TAIL AND STOP LIGHT (top socket in left taillight—two -wires in one plug)—Taillight cable <b>black</b> wire from switch -terminal 2 is for service taillight, and taillight cable <b>red</b> -wire from switch terminal 7 is for service stop light.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">24. BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT (ON FRONT MUDGUARD)—<b>Black</b> wire -from switch terminal 1.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">25. SERVICE HEADLIGHT—<b>Black</b> wire with <b>red tracer</b> -from handlebar toggle switch (31) to large terminal screw; -<b>red</b> wire with <b>yellow tracer</b> from handlebar toggle -switch to small terminal screw.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">26. IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH (TOP VIEW)—Switch “OFF” in -straight‐ahead position.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">27. BLACKOUT HEADLIGHT—Blackout headlight is fitted with -independent switch in lamp body.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">28. SPARK COIL—Coil and battery cable <b>green</b> wire from -terminal 10 to coil front terminal; <b>green</b> wire from stop -light switch (20) to coil front terminal; low tension wire (34) -from circuit breaker (33) to coil rear terminal.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">29. HORN—Horn and headlight cable <b>green</b> wire from terminal -10; <b>black</b> wire from horn switch (30).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">30. HORN SWITCH—<b>Black</b> wire from horn.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">31. HANDLEBAR TOGGLE SWITCH—<b>Black</b> wire with <b>red -tracer</b> from service headlight terminal with large terminal -screw; <b>red</b> wire with <b>yellow tracer</b> to service -headlight terminal with small terminal screw; <b>red</b> wire with -<b>black tracer</b> from junction terminal 17.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">32. CUT‐OUT RELAY—<b>Red</b> wire with <b>black tracer</b> from -“<b>relay</b>” terminal of generator to relay rear terminal; -generator and relay cable <b>red</b> wire from switch terminal 3 to -relay terminal marked “BAT”; generator and relay cable <b>black</b> -wire from terminal 8, to relay right front terminal.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">33. IGNITION CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER—Low tension wire (34) from -coil rear terminal.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">34. CIRCUIT BREAKER‐TO‐COIL LOW TENSION WIRE—See Description 33.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">35. JUNCTION TERMINAL ON BAKELITE TERMINAL PLATE—Horn and -headlight cable <b>black</b> wire from switch terminal 1; wire from -blackout headlight (27).</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif">All WLA model motorcycles originally equipped with radio interference -suppression‐devices, or to which suppression‐devices have been added, -can be identified by a large letter S stenciled on left and right sides -of instrument panel cover.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif"><b>*A</b> GROUND TERMINALS ON COIL HOUSING.</span></p> -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif"><b>*B</b> FLEXIBLE BRAID CONDUCTOR.</span></p> -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif"><b>*C</b> CONDENSER.</span></p> -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif"><b>*D</b> SHIELDED CIRCUIT BREAKER‐TO‐COIL LOW TENSION WIRE.</span></p> -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif"><b>*E</b> SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS.</span></p> -<p class="hangingindent1"><span class="sansserif"><b>*H</b> CONDENSER.</span></p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310278C<br /> -<i>Legend for Figure 73—Complete Wiring Diagram</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_74" id="fig_74"></a> -<img src="images/i_185.jpg" width="600" height="307" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310247<br /> -<i>Figure 74—Battery Box Open and Filler Plugs Removed -for Service</i></p></div> - -<p><b>d. Install Battery.</b> See that rubber mat is in place in -bottom of battery box and install battery in box so that positive -post is on left side of vehicle, and negative post is on right side -of vehicle. Connect wires to battery positive and negative posts. Fit -rubber mat on top of battery. Install cover and securely tighten thumb -wing nuts. Lower saddle and bar assembly. Install swivel pin on right -side of vehicle so that retaining spring fits in groove in end of -swivel pin.</p> - -<h4 id="para_114">114. HEADLIGHTS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Service Headlight.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove nut which secures light body to bracket, observing that -conical washer bears against cup of bracket for secure light mounting. -Disconnect wires from light body terminals.</p> - -<p>(2) Before installing service headlight, connect wires to light body -terminals, noting that black wire with red tracer connects with the -larger terminal screw. Mount light on bracket. Position conical‐shaped -washer and lock washer and install mounting stud nut. Do not tighten -mounting nut.</p> - -<p><b>b. Adjust Service Headlight.</b> Adjustment should be made -in darkened area or at night, tactical situation permitting. Vehicle -must be standing on a level surface about 25 feet away from and headed -toward a wall or screen upon which a horizontal line has been drawn at -exactly the same height as service headlight center. Set handle bar -toggle switch in “BRIGHT” position and check light<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> beam for height and -direction. The top of main beam of light should register on wall or -screen even with, but not higher than, the horizontal line mentioned. -Tilt light body in bracket up or down to correctly aim it in relation -to the horizontal line, making sure that light body is not turned -either to right or left. Securely tighten mounting stud nut.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_75" id="fig_75"></a> -<img src="images/i_186.jpg" width="514" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310275<br /> -<i>Figure 75—Blackout Headlight Installation</i></p></div> - -<p><b>c. Blackout Headlight.</b> Blackout headlight is mounted -on bracket which attaches to left upper side of front fork. Blackout -headlight operates when ignition and light switch is turned to the -second right position. However, blackout headlight is fitted with -an independent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> switch in light body to permit turning it off while -other blackout lights are in use. Blackout headlight body is secured -to mounting bracket by means of a conical washer, lock washer, and -mounting nut, providing a swivel mounting to permit light adjustment.</p> - -<p><b>d. Blackout Marker Light.</b> The blackout marker light is -secured to front mudguard by means of a hollow mounting stud, with -plain washer, lock washer, and nut. Light wire passes through hollow -stud and is protected by tubing on under side of mudguard. Blackout -marker light wire connects with No. 1 post on ignition and light -switch. Lamp is on with ignition and light switch in second right -position.</p> - -<h4 id="para_115">115. TAILLIGHTS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Blackout Stop and Taillight.</b> Blackout stop and -taillight is mounted on right side of taillight bracket. Light is -provided with top unit to provide blackout stop light controlled by -brake‐operated stop light switch. Bottom unit in the blackout stop -and taillight is regularly used as service blackout taillight and is -controlled by ignition and light switch.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_76" id="fig_76"></a> -<img src="images/i_187.jpg" width="600" height="357" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310272<br /> -<i>Figure 76—Ignition and Light Switch, Front and Back Positions</i></p></div> - -<p><b>b. Service Stop and Taillight.</b> Light is located on left -side of light mounting bracket. Top unit is used for service stop and -taillight (double filament lamp). Taillight filament is controlled -by ignition and light switch; stop lamp filament is controlled by -brake‐operated stop light switch. Stop light does not operate in -daytime when ignition only is turned on. Bottom unit serves as a spare -blackout taillight. In case the regularly used (right‐side) blackout -taillamp fails, its socket plug can be transferred to this taillight -socket.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Stop and Taillight Switch.</b> This switch is operated by -brake pedal and is located on end of rear support rod on right side of -vehicle. Refer to wiring diagram (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>) and paragraph <a href="#para_118">118</a> for wiring -connections.</p> - -<h4 id="para_116">116. IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Earlier models are provided with lock, later models are -non‐locking.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_77" id="fig_77"></a> -<img src="images/i_188.jpg" width="600" height="424" alt="" /> - -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>8</b>—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>14</b>—GENERATOR TERMINAL TO SWITCH.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>15</b>—GENERATOR TERMINAL TO RELAY.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>26</b>—IGNITION‐LIGHT SWITCH.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>32</b>—RELAY.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>35</b>—TERMINAL STRIP BINDING POST.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>36</b>—MAGNETIC SWITCH FOR BLACKOUT LIGHT.</p> -<p class="hangingindent1p8"><b>H</b>—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER.</p> - -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310279<br /> -<i>Figure 77—Blackout Headlight Magnetic Switch on Later Models</i></p></div> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b> Disconnect battery ground wire. Remove -instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>). Disconnect all wires from switch. -Remove the four switch mounting screws and spacers. Switch is now free -for removal.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b> Mount switch on instrument panel base. -Install four screws and spacers. Connect wires (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>). Connect -battery negative ground wire to frame. Turn switch on. Check lights and -horn, tactical situation permitting. Install instrument panel cover -(par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_78" id="fig_78"></a> -<img src="images/i_189.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310270<br /> -<i>Figure 78—Wiring Cables, Left Side</i></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_79" id="fig_79"></a> -<img src="images/i_189bot.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310271<br /> -<i>Figure 79—Wiring Cables, Right Side</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_117">117. HORN.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Description.</b> Horn is mounted to headlight bracket -by means of four bolts, lock washers, and nuts. One horn terminal is -connected with operating button, and other terminal is connected to No. -4 ignition and light switch terminal (<a href="#fig_73">fig. 73</a>).</p> - -<p><b>b. Adjust.</b> Tone adjusting screw is located in rear side -of horn. If horn fails to operate and moving the adjusting screw does -not remedy the trouble, horn must be replaced. NOTE: <i>Do not change -position of the adjusting screw located in center of diaphragm.</i></p> - -<h4 id="para_118">118. WIRING.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Cable System.</b> Since ignition and lights are controlled -by the ignition and light switch, all wires terminate at the ignition -and light switch. Cables for wire protection are used, making it -necessary to replace cables rather than individual wires. A study of -figure 73 will be helpful when removing or installing any of the wiring -cables. Also study figures 78 and 79 and note how cables are arranged -on frame, and how they lead to the switch panel.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove and Install Cables.</b> When it becomes necessary -to replace wiring cables leading to the ignition and light switch, both -fuel and oil tanks must be removed (par. <a href="#para_107">107</a>) and instrument panel -cover removed (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>) for accessibility.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XXIV"><span class="small sansserif">Section XXIV</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">INSTRUMENT PANEL</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XXIV"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Panel cover</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_119">119</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Indicator lights</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_120">120</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Speedometer head</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_121">121</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_119">119. PANEL COVER (<a href="#fig_80">fig. 80</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b> Remove speedometer light switch knob and -remove screw. Remove hexagon‐head screw on front of cover. Remove two -screws from side of cover. Remove two screws and washers which fasten -plate to right side of cover. Lift cover off panel.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_80" id="fig_80"></a> -<img src="images/i_191.jpg" width="600" height="482" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315731<br /> -<i>Figure 80—Panel Cover Removed</i></p></div> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> Position cover on panel. Install two side -mounting screws and washers and install hexagon‐head screw, plain -washer, and lock washer in front end of cover. Attach cover side plate, -installing two screws and washers. Install speedometer light switch -knob and screw.</p> - -<h4 id="para_120">120. INDICATOR LIGHTS.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Three 2–c.p. single‐contact lamps are located on instrument -panel. One for oil pressure (red) indicator light: one for -generator‐charge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> (green) indicator light, and one for speedometer -illumination.</p> - -<p><b>b. Remove and/or Install.</b> Remove and/or install panel -cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p><b>c. Test Generator‐Charge (Green) Indicator Lamp.</b> -Disconnect black wire from relay terminal (top terminal at front end -of relay) and ground on relay base. Turn ignition and light switch -on. Lamp should light. If it does not light, check wire for condition -and/or replace lamp after removing panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p><b>d. Test Oil Pressure (Red) Indicator Lamp.</b> Disconnect -wire from oil pressure switch. Ground the wire on engine. Turn ignition -and light switch on. Lamp should light. If it does not light, check -wire for condition and/or replace lamp after removing panel cover (par. -<a href="#para_119">119</a>). If lamp and wiring are satisfactory, replace oil pressure switch.</p> - -<h4 id="para_121">121. SPEEDOMETER HEAD.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b> Remove instrument panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>). -Loosen the two tank front mounting bolts and remove rear mounting bolt -to free speedometer cable clamp. Disconnect speedometer cable at drive -unit. Free cable from clip located below tool box. Remove two screws -which mount head to frame. Pull head upward, working cable forward -under tank, until head and cable connection nut is clear of frame. -Unscrew cable nut. NOTE: <i>Cable may be secured to frame tube, between -tanks, with friction tape. If so, cut tape.</i></p> - -<p><b>b. Install.</b> Attach speedometer head to cable end and -tighten nut. Pass cable down into frame hole, pulling on rear of cable -at same time. Mount speedometer head to frame with two screws and lock -washers. Install panel cover (par. <a href="#para_119">119</a>). Secure cable clamp under head -of tank rear mounting bolt. Secure cable in clip, located under tool -box. Attach end of cable to drive unit. Tighten the two tank front -mounting bolts.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h3 id="Section_XXV"><span class="small sansserif">Section XXV</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="sansserif">TIRES, WHEELS, AND HUBS</span></h3></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="toc XXV"> -<tr> -<th> </th><th class="tdr"><span class="smallest sansserif">Paragraph</span></th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Description</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_122">122</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tires</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_123">123</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Rims and spokes</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_124">124</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Front wheel replacement</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_125">125</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Front wheel hub adjustment</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_126">126</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Rear wheel replacement</td><td class="tdc"><a href="#para_127">127</a></td> -</tr></table></div> - -<h4 id="para_122">122. DESCRIPTION.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Wheels have drop center rims to accommodate 4.00 x 18 tires. -Front and rear wheels are not interchangeable. Front wheel hub is -of ball‐bearing design, having cone adjustment similar to that of a -bicycle hub. Rear wheel hub is of roller‐bearing design and must be -taken apart for adjustment. Both wheels have “knock‐out” type axles.</p> - -<h4 id="para_123">123. TIRES.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Description.</b> Wheel rims are of the drop‐center type, -having a depression, or well, in center of rim. The rim well, being -smaller in circumference than the rest of the rim, allows one casing -bead to fit loosely in it while other bead is being worked over edge of -rim. Bear in mind the importance of keeping one bead in rim well while -other bead is being worked onto or off rim. NOTE: <i>It is not always -necessary to completely remove casing from rim. Removing one side only -allows inner tube to be removed and reinstalled, and also allows inside -of casing to be inspected.</i></p> - -<p><b>b. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Remove wheel from vehicle and lay wheel on its side. To remove -front wheel, refer to paragraph <a href="#para_125">125</a>. To remove rear wheel, refer to -paragraph <a href="#para_127">127</a>.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove valve cap and valve core to free all air from tube.</p> - -<p>(3) Press casing head into rim well to within a short distance of each -side of valve.</p> - -<p>(4) Using tire iron “B” in vehicle kit (<a href="#fig_11">fig. 11</a>), start bead over edge -of rim at valve. Do not use force when starting bead over edge of rim -with tire iron, because bead wires may be broken or stretched, and tire -ruined. With first bead in rim well, bead on other side can be started -easily over edge of rim. After a portion of second bead is started over -rim edge, casing can be further removed from wheel without aid of tire -iron.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 482px;"> -<a name="fig_81" id="fig_81"></a> -<img src="images/i_194.jpg" width="482" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">RA PD 310254<br /> -<i>Figure 81—Disassembly for Front Wheel Removal</i></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span></p> - -<p><b>c. Install.</b> Before applying casing to rim, see that -rubber rim strip is in place in rim well and that rim strip valve hole -alines with valve hole in rim.</p> - -<p>(1) Start either bead of casing over rim edge. Work around wheel until -entire bead is on rim.</p> - -<p>(2) Place inner tube in casing. NOTE: <i>Inner tube may be placed in -casing before or after first bead of casing is on rim.</i> Insert valve -stem through hole in rim and start valve stem lock nut. While pressing -first bead into rim well, work remaining bead over edge of rim, -starting directly opposite valve stem. Work both ways around wheel -toward valve.</p> - -<p>(3) Inflate front tire to 18 pounds, and rear tire to 20 pounds.</p> - -<p>(4) Reinstall front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>): reinstall wheel (par. <a href="#para_127">127</a>). -CAUTION: <i>Tire casings are balanced and must be applied to rim with -balance mark located at valve stem. On Firestone tires the balance mark -is a red triangle, and on Goodyear tires a red dot.</i></p> - -<h4 id="para_124">124. RIMS AND SPOKES.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Wheels with broken and or missing spokes, with rims in badly -kinked and or distorted condition, or having considerable run‐out, must -be replaced.</p> - -<p><b>b.</b> Loose wheel spokes must be tightened evenly, being careful -not to distort rim out‐of‐round or cause run‐out. Use spoke nipple -wrench (41–W–3339) for front wheel spokes, and wrench (41–W–3340) for -rear wheel spokes.</p> - -<h4 id="para_125">125. FRONT WHEEL REPLACEMENT (<a href="#fig_81">fig. 81</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Raise front end of vehicle by -blocking up under frame loop on skid plate.</p> - -<p>(2) Remove brake shackle bolt from rigid fork on left side of vehicle.</p> - -<p>(3) Front axle is knock‐out type. Remove cotter pin and axle castle -nut and pull out axle. Wheel is free for removal. CAUTION: <i>Before -removing axle note how slot in brake stabilizer plate is fitted over -the extended (button) end of the left‐front rocker plate stud. It is -necessary that this be correctly assembled when replacing front wheel.</i></p> - -<p>(4) Roll wheel forward and remove brake assembly from brake drum, -leaving the assembly attached to brake control wire and control wire -housing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span></p> - -<p><b>b. Install</b> (<a href="#fig_81">fig. 81</a>). NOTE: <i>At the time wheel and brake -assembly is located in front fork, and before axle is installed, make -sure that the curved slot in brake stabilizer plate engages with the -button end of the left‐front rocker plate stud.</i></p> - -<p>(1) Install brake assembly in brake drum.</p> - -<p>(2) Roll wheel into position. Engage stabilizer plate notch and rocker -plate stud button end, and at same time insert front axle.</p> - -<p>(3) Install castle nut (no lock washer used) on axle and securely -tighten.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_82" id="fig_82"></a> -<img src="images/i_196.jpg" width="600" height="542" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310252<br /> -<i>Figure 82—Front Hub Prepared for Cone Adjustment</i></p></div> - -<p>(4) Use good cotter pin to secure nut.</p> - -<p>(5) Install brake shackle bolt and special lock washer and nut. Tighten -nut.</p> - -<p>(6) Check front brake control wire and housing to make sure everything -is in order and correctly adjusted (par. <a href="#para_97">97</a>).</p> - -<p>(7) Remove blocking from under vehicle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span></p> - -<h4 id="para_126">126. FRONT WHEEL HUB ADJUSTMENT.</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a.</b> Front wheel, ball‐bearing hub, is similar to a bicycle front -hub as far as adjustment is concerned. Do not completely disassemble -hub for adjustment as balls are not in retainers, and will fall out -when cone is removed. Hub is provided with grease deflector sleeve -and felt retainer. NOTE: <i>Earlier models are not equipped with grease -deflector sleeve or felt retainer washer. Front wheel should have -slight play or shake on bearings, and should turn freely.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_83" id="fig_83"></a> -<img src="images/i_197.jpg" width="561" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 315733<br /> -<i>Figure 83—Disassembly for Rear Wheel Removal</i></p></div> - -<p>(1) Remove front wheel (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(2) Back off cone lock nut to end of axle sleeve. Do not remove nut.</p> - -<p>(3) Turn cone on axle sleeve to the right (clockwise) to take up wheel -play, and to the left (counterclockwise) to give more wheel play. -Adjust so that wheel has slight play on bearing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span></p> - -<p>(4) Tighten cone lock nut. After tightening nut, again try for slight -wheel play on bearing. Sometimes tightening lock nut takes up on -bearing play. If necessary, readjust for desired results when cone lock -nut is tight.</p> - -<p>(5) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. <a href="#para_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Check adjustment of front brake.</p> - -<h4 id="para_127">127. REAR WHEEL REPLACEMENT (figs. <a href="#fig_83">83</a> and <a href="#fig_84">84</a>).</h4> - -<p class="p1"><b>a. Remove.</b></p> - -<p>(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.</p> - -<p>(2) Release mudguard rear stays. Loosen mounting nuts, and raise end of -mudguard for wheel clearance.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="fig_84" id="fig_84"></a> -<img src="images/i_198.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"> -RA PD 310253<br /> -<i>Figure 84—Brake Rod Lock</i></p></div> - - -<p>(3) Remove the five wheel mounting socket screws which secure wheel -hub to brake shell and sprocket assembly. Use vehicle kit wrench “S” -and sleeve (handle) “C” (<a href="#fig_11">fig. 11</a>). NOTE: <i>Wrench can be inserted from -left side through holes in hub, and wheel must be turned to bring each -mounting screw directly to the rear of axle for accessibility.</i></p> - -<p>(4) Use brake rod lock to set and lock brake to prevent brake shell and -sprocket from coming off brake assembly while wheel is being removed. -Apply brake pedal and shift brake rod lock against<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span> tool box bracket, -securing lock in this position with wing nut (<a href="#fig_84">fig. 84</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Remove axle nut (right side of vehicle), using vehicle kit wrench -“J” (<a href="#fig_11">fig. 11</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Pull out axle from left side of vehicle.</p> - -<p>(7) Remove spacer from between wheel hub end and left side of frame.</p> - -<p>(8) Wheel is now free to come out by pulling and working it away from -dowel pins located in brake shell assembly. A wheel being removed for -the first time may offer some resistance. It will be observed that -chain, sprocket, and brake assembly remain in the vehicle frame.</p> - -<p><b>b. Install</b> (figs. <a href="#fig_83">83</a> and <a href="#fig_84">84</a>).</p> - -<p>(1) Position wheel on brake shell dowel pins. Work hub onto dowels as -far as it will go.</p> - -<p>(2) Install axle spacer at left end of hub so that axle will pass -through it and the hub.</p> - -<p>(3) Install axle from left side of vehicle. Pass it through sleeve and -hub, with end of axle engaging the frame left axle clip notch.</p> - -<p>(4) See that lock washer is in place. Turn on and securely tighten axle -nut, using vehicle kit wrench “J” (<a href="#fig_11">fig. 11</a>).</p> - -<p>(5) Loosen wing nut clamping brake rod lock. Move brake rod lock -forward so that it will not strike any object when brake is operated; -tighten wing nut to retain in position (<a href="#fig_84">fig. 84</a>).</p> - -<p>(6) Install and securely tighten the five wheel mounting socket screws.</p> - -<p>(7) Lower mudguard into position and attach ends of rear stays. -Securely tighten the clamping nuts.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h2 id="REFERENCES">REFERENCES</h2></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="myleft" border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="references"> -<tr> -<th colspan="3">STANDARD NOMENCLATURE LISTS</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Motorcycle, chain drive (Harley‐Davidson)</p></td> -<td class="vertb">SNL G–523</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Cleaning, preserving and lubricating materials, -recoil fluids, special oils, and miscellaneous related items</p></td> -<td class="vertb">SNL K–1</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Soldering, brazing, and welding materials, gases, -and related items</p></td> -<td class="vertb">SNL K–2</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Tools, maintenance, for the repair of automotive vehicles</p></td> -<td class="vertb">SNL G–27</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Tool sets—motor transport</p></td> -<td class="vertb">SNL N–19</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Tool sets for ordnance service command, automotive shops</p></td> -<td class="vertb">SNL N–30</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Current Standard Nomenclature Lists are listed above.</p></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">An up‐to‐date list of SNL’s is maintained in the Index to Maintenance Publications</p></td> -<td class="vertb">OFSB 1–1</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th colspan="3">EXPLANATORY PUBLICATIONS</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Military motor vehicles</p></td> -<td class="vertb">AR 850–15</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th colspan="3">Automotive Materiel</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Automotive electricity</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 10–580</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Electric fundamentals</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 10–455</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">The motor vehicle</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 10–510</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Chassis, body, and trailer units</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 10–550</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th colspan="3">Maintenance and Repair</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Automotive lubrication</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 10–540</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Motor transport inspections</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 10–545</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Tire repair and retread</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 9–1868</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Cleaning, preserving, lubricating and welding -materials and similar items issued by the -ordnance</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 9–850</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Detailed lubrication instructions for ordnance -materiel</p></td> -<td class="vertb">OFSB 6–series</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th colspan="3">Protection of Materiel</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Explosives and demolitions</p></td> -<td class="vertb">FM 5–25</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Defense against chemical attack</p></td> -<td class="vertb">FM 21–40</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Decontamination of Armored Force vehicles</p></td> -<td class="vertb">FM 17–59</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Chemical decontamination, materials and equipment</p></td> -<td class="vertb">TM 3–220</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th colspan="2">List of Publications for Training</th> -<td class="vertb">FM 21–6</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<th colspan="3">Storage and Shipment</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Registration of motor vehicles</p></td> -<td class="vertb">AR 850–10</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Storage of motor vehicle equipment</p></td> -<td class="vertb">AR 850–18</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td><p class="indent">Ordnance storage and shipment chart, group G—Major items</p></td> -<td class="vertb">OSSC–G</td> -</tr></table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span></p> - -<div class="chapter"><h2 id="INDEX">INDEX</h2></div> - -<ul class="index"> -<li class="ifrst">A<span class="add4em">Page No.</span></li> -<li class="ifrst">Air cleaner, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> -<li class="indx">Allocation of maintenance by echelons, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Ammunition box carrier, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Armature bearing special lubrication, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Auxiliary brake, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -B</li> -<li class="ifrst">Battery, lighting system, horn</li> -<li class="isubone">battery</li> -<li class="isubtwo">check electrolyte level, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> -<li class="isubone">horn</li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustment, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">description, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ignition and light switch</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> -<li class="isubone">service headlights</li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustment, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">blackout, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">marker, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> -<li class="isubone">taillights</li> -<li class="isubtwo">blackout stop and taillight, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">service stop and taillight, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> -<li class="isubone">wiring</li> -<li class="isubtwo">cable system, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal and installation, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Brake system</li> -<li class="isubone">brake shoe installation, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> -<li class="isubone">brake shoe removal, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> -<li class="isubone">front wheel brake, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear wheel brake</li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustment, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">linkage, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -C</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Carburetor</li> -<li class="isubone">adjustment, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> -<li class="isubone">bowl cleaning, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubone">installation, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isubone">removal, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Chains and sprockets</li> -<li class="isubone">chain oilers, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> -<li class="isubone">chain repair tool, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> -<li class="isubone">countershaft sprocket replacement, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine sprocket replacement, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> -<li class="isubone">front chain adjustment, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> -<li class="isubone">front chain replacement, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear chain adjustment, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear chain replacement, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear wheel alinement, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Clutch</li> -<li class="isubone">control adjustment, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> -<li class="isubone">disk and spring inspection, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> -<li class="isubone">disk installation, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> -<li class="isubone">disk removal, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> -<li class="isubone">maintenance and adjustment, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> -<li class="isubone">release bearing</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spring tension adjustment, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Controls and operation</li> -<li class="isubone">controls</li> -<li class="isubtwo">auxiliary brake (front wheel), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">carburetor choke, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">clutch, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">foot starter crank, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">gasoline valve, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">gear shifter, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">ignition and light switch, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">instrument panel signal lights, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">service brake (rear wheel), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">spark, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">steering damper, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">throttle, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> -<li class="isubone">driving precautions</li> -<li class="isubtwo">avoid low gear operation, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">braking, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">high‐speed tips, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine prestarting instructions, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> -<li class="isubone">operation of vehicle</li> -<li class="isubtwo">starting on level ground, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">starting on uneven or soft ground, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> -<li class="isubone">running‐in new engine (or vehicle), <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> -<li class="isubone">starting engine</li> -<li class="isubtwo">behavior of instrument panel signal lights, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">cold engine, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">engine with dead battery, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">hot engine, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">warm engine, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> -<li class="isubone">stopping and parking vehicle</li> -<li class="isubtwo">parking vehicle, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">stopping vehicle, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> -<li class="isubone"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> -stopping the engine, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> -<li class="isubone">towing vehicle to start engine</li> -<li class="isubtwo"> engine starting with dead battery, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -D</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Data, tabulated</li> -<li class="isubone">engine, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isubone">vehicle specifications, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">capacities, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">performance, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Description</li> -<li class="isubone">battery, lighting system, horn, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> -<li class="isubone">clutch, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isubone">generating system, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ignition system, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="isubone">intake and exhaust system, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tires, wheels and hubs, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> -<li class="isubone">transmission, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Description of vehicle, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -E</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Echelon system of maintenance allocation, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Engine</li> -<li class="isubone">carbon removal, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> -<li class="isubone">data, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isubone">head, gasket replacement</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> -<li class="isubone">installation, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> -<li class="isubone">oil feed pump replacement, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> -<li class="isubone">removal, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tune‐up, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isubone">valve tappet adjustment, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Exhaust system, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -F</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -First echelon preventive maintenance services</li> -<li class="isubone">after‐operation and weekly service, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> -<li class="isubone">at‐halt service, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> -<li class="isubone">before‐operation service, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> -<li class="isubone">during‐operation service, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> -<li class="isubone">purpose, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Fuel system</li> -<li class="isubone">carburetor</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isubone">carburetor adjustment</li> -<li class="isubtwo">complete readjustment of carburetor, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">low speed adjusting needle, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> -<li class="isubone">carburetor bowl cleaning, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel pipe</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel strainer</li> -<li class="isubtwo">cleaning, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">install strainer assembly, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">remove strainer assembly, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubone">general, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> -<li class="isubone">throttle control wire adjustment</li> -<li class="isubtwo">closed throttle, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">open throttle, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -G</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Generating system</li> -<li class="isubone">armature bearing special lubrication, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> -<li class="isubone">commutator cleaning, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> -<li class="isubone">cut‐out relay, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> -<li class="isubone">generator installation, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> -<li class="isubone">generator removal, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Generator removal and installation, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -H</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Horn, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -I</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Ignition system</li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker and timer assembly installation, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">recommended recheck of ignition timing, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker points</li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustable contact point installation, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustable contact point removal, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustment, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> -breaker lever installation, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">breaker lever removal, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> -<li class="isubone">coil to timer wire</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> -<li class="isubone">condenser</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark coil</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark control adjustment, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark plugs</li> -<li class="isubtwo">cleaning, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">point adjustment, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">replacement, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">type, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Installation procedure</li> -<li class="isubone">air cleaner, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ammunition box carrier, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">battery, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> -<li class="isubone">battery box, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubone">carburetor, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker and timer assembly, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker lever, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker points, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubone">clutch release bearing, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> -<li class="isubone">coil to timer wire, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> -<li class="isubone">condenser, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> -<li class="isubone">control wire housings, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine head gasket, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> -<li class="isubone">exhaust pipe, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> -<li class="isubone">foot starter, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fork assembly, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> -<li class="isubone">front wheel, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel pipe, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel strainer assembly, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel tank, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> -<li class="isubone">generator, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> -<li class="isubone">handle bar assembly, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ignition and light switch, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> -<li class="isubone">instrument panel cover, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isubone">jiffy stand, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> -<li class="isubone">luggage carrier, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isubone">mudguards, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isubone">muffler assembly, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> -<li class="isubone">oil tank, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubone">outer front chain guard, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear chain guard, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear stand, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear wheel, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> -<li class="isubone">saddle post, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubone">safety guards, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubone">scabbard carrier, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">skid plates, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark coil, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark control wire, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubone">speedometer, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spring forks, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> -<li class="isubone">starter crank springs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> -<li class="isubone">steering damper, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> -<li class="isubone">throttle control wire, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tires, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tool box and bracket assembly, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubone">upper bumper springs, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="isubone">upper coil springs, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="isubone">wiring, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Instrument panel</li> -<li class="isubone">indicator lights, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isubone">panel cover</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isubone">speedometer</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Intake and exhaust system</li> -<li class="isubone">air cleaner</li> -<li class="isubtwo">general, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">maintenance, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">service, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> -<li class="isubone">air cleaner mounting bracket replacement, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description</li> -<li class="isubtwo">exhaust, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">intake, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> -<li class="isubone">exhaust system</li> -<li class="isubtwo">muffler assembly installation, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">muffler assembly removal, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">pipe installation, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> -<li class="isubone">hose and carburetor fitting</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Introduction</li> -<li class="isubone">scope of manual, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> -<li class="isubone">supersession of quartermaster manuals, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> -L</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Lighting system, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Lubrication</li> -<li class="isubone">introduction, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isubone">lubrication guide, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">general, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">lubrication notes, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">oilcan points, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">supplies, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">warning light, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -M</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Maintenance allocation</li> -<li class="isubone">allocation of maintenance by echelons</li> -<li class="isubtwo">clutch, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">controls and linkage, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">electrical group, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">engine (V‐45″ twin engine), <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">exhaust group, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">miscellaneous, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">suspension (front), <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">suspension (rear), <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">tires, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">transmission, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">vehicle assembly, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> -<li class="isubone">scope of maintenance, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Manual, scope of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -O</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Organization tools and equipment, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -P</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Preventive maintenance services</li> -<li class="isubone">first echelon, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> -<li class="isubone">second echelon, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -R</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -References</li> -<li class="isubone">explanatory publications</li> -<li class="isubtwo">automotive materiel, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">list of publications for training, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">maintenance and repair, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">protection of materiel, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">storage and shipment, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="isubone">standard nomenclature lists, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Removal procedure</li> -<li class="isubone">air cleaner, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ammunition box carrier, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">battery, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> -<li class="isubone">battery box, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> -<li class="isubone">carbon, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> -<li class="isubone">carburetor, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker and timer assembly, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> -<li class="isubone">circuit breaker lever, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> -<li class="isubone">condenser, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> -<li class="isubone">control wire housings, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine head gasket, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> -<li class="isubone">foot starter, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fork assembly, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="isubone">front wheel, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel pipe, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel strainer assembly, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel tank, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> -<li class="isubone">generator, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> -<li class="isubone">handle bar assembly, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ignition coil to timer wire, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> -<li class="isubone">instrument panel cover, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isubone">jiffy stand, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubone">luggage carrier, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isubone">mudguards, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isubone">muffler assembly, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> -<li class="isubone">oil tank, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> -<li class="isubone">outer front chain guard, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear chain guard, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear stand, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear wheel, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> -<li class="isubone">release bearing (clutch), <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> -<li class="isubone">saddle post, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubone">safety guards, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubone">scabbard carrier, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">skid plates, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark coil, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark control wire, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubone">speedometer, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spring forks, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> -<li class="isubone">starter crank spring, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isubone">steering damper, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> -<li class="isubone">throttle control wire, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tires, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tool box and bracket assembly, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubone">upper bumper springs, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="isubone">upper coil springs, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Road test chart of maintenance operations, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> -S</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Second echelon preventive maintenance</li> -<li class="isubone">road test chart, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">maintenance operation, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isubone">services</li> -<li class="isubtwo">first echelon participation, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">frequency, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">general procedures, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">specific procedures, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Sheet metal and equipment</li> -<li class="isubone">battery box</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> -<li class="isubone">carriers</li> -<li class="isubtwo">ammunition box carrier installation, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">ammunition box carrier removal, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel tank</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> -<li class="isubone">chain guards</li> -<li class="isubtwo">outer front chain guard installation, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">outer front chain guard removal, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">rear chain guard installation, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">rear chain guard removal, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">jiffy stand</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubone">luggage carrier</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isubone">mudguard (front)</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isubone">mudguard (rear)</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isubone">oil tank</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear stand</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isubone">saddle post</li> -<li class="isubtwo">description, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubone">safety guards</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> -<li class="isubone">scabbard carrier</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> -<li class="isubone">skid plates</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tanks</li> -<li class="isubtwo">fuel tank, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">general, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">oil tank, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tool box</li> -<li class="isubtwo">box and bracket assembly installation, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">box and bracket assembly removal, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Spark plugs, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Speedometer</li> -<li class="isubone">installation, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isubone">removal, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Steering control</li> -<li class="isubone">control wire housings</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fork assembly (complete)</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">rocker plate studs, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> -<li class="isubone">forks (springs)</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> -<li class="isubone">handle bar controls</li> -<li class="isubtwo">install throttle control wire, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">remove throttle control wire, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> -<li class="isubone">handle bars</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation of assembly, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal of assembly, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> -<li class="isubone">spark control wire</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> -<li class="isubone">steering damper</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> -<li class="isubone">upper coil springs and upper bumper springs</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> -Stowage on vehicle (tools and equipment), <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -T</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Tabulated data</li> -<li class="isubone">engine, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> -<li class="isubone">vehicle specifications, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">capacities, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">performance, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> -<li class="indx">Tires, wheels, and hubs</li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> -<li class="isubone">front wheel</li> -<li class="isubtwo">hub adjustment, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rear wheel</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> -<li class="isubone">rims and spokes, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> -<li class="isubone">tires</li> -<li class="isubtwo">description, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Tools and equipment stowage on the vehicle</li> -<li class="isubone">vehicle equipment, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> -<li class="isubone">vehicle spare parts, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> -<li class="isubone">vehicle tools, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Transmission</li> -<li class="isubone">control linkage</li> -<li class="isubtwo">adjustment, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">checking gear shifter control linkage, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">transmission shifted to adjust front drive chain, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> -<li class="isubone">description, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> -<li class="isubone">foot starter</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isubone">installation, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> -<li class="isubone">removal, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> -<li class="isubone">starter crank springs</li> -<li class="isubtwo">installation, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">removal, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Trouble shooting</li> -<li class="isubone">brakes, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> -<li class="isubone">electrical system, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine</li> -<li class="isubtwo">instruction, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> -<li class="isubtwo">tests to determine mechanical condition, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> -<li class="isubone">engine lubricating system, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> -<li class="isubone">fuel system, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> -<li class="isubone">generating system, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> -<li class="isubone">ignition system, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> -<li class="isubone">introduction, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> -<li class="isubone">steering, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> -<li class="isubone">transmission and clutch, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> -<li class="isubone">wheels and chains, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> -<li class="ifrst"> -W</li> -<li class="ifrst"> -Wheels and hubs, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> -<li class="indx"> -Wiring, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -</ul> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="p2 noindent chapter">[A.G. 300.7 (17 Aug. 1943)]</p> - -<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">By order of the Secretary of War</span>:<br /> -<br /> -<span class="add8em">G. C. MARSHALL,</span><br /> -<span class="add10em"><i>Chief of Staff</i>.</span></p> - -<p class="p2 noindent"><span class="smcap">Official</span>:<br /> -<span class="add2em">J. A. ULIO,</span><br /> -<span class="add4em"><i>Major General</i>,</span><br /> -<span class="add6em"><i>The Adjutant General</i>.</span></p> - -<p class="hangingindent6"><span class="smcap">Distribution</span>: R9 (4): IR 5, 7 and 17 (5): Bn 9 (2): IBn 5, 6,<br /> -7 and 17 (5): C9 (8): IC 5, 6, 7 and 17 (5)</p> - -<p class="center">(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21–6)</p> - -<p class="noindent"><span class="sansserif smaller"><b>RAPD3OEC43–81M</b></span></p> - -<p class="center noindent"><span class="sansserif smallest"><b>PUBLICATIONS DEPARTMENT ‐ RARITAN ARSENAL</b></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="transnote"><p>Transcriber’s notes:</p> -<p>The original spelling, punctuation and hyphenation has been retained -except for apparent printer’s errors which have been silently corrected.</p> -<p>In the Fig. 51 caption M—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD -AND HAND - ‘HAND’ should possibly read ‘BAND’.</p> -<p>In the echelon table, section 25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE, ‘strained -gasoline’ should possibly read ‘strainer gasoline’.</p> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Motorcycle, Solo (Harley-Davidson -Model WLA) Technical Manual No. 9, by United States War Department - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARLEY-DAVIDSON MODEL WLA *** - -***** This file should be named 51058-h.htm or 51058-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/0/5/51058/ - -Produced by deaurider, Brian Wilcox and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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