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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..faed434 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51042 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51042) diff --git a/old/51042-0.txt b/old/51042-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index d51248a..0000000 --- a/old/51042-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1418 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Nakimu Caves, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Nakimu Caves - Glacier Dominion Park, B. C. - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: January 26, 2016 [EBook #51042] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NAKIMU CAVES *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - - - - - - - - - - The Nakimu Caves - Glacier Dominion Park, B. C. - - - [Illustration: On the road to the Caves—Ross Peak in centre.] - - DOMINION PARKS BRANCH - Department of the Interior - OTTAWA - 1914 - - - - - THE NAKIMU CAVES - GLACIER DOMINION PARK, B.C. - - -Near the summit of the Selkirk range of mountains in British Columbia is -one of the most curious series of subterranean caves in the world. Being -of recent discovery and, up to the present, almost inaccessible except -to the most agile and daring they remain practically unknown to the -world at large, but to those bold spirits who have dared their black -depths they have offered an experience, weird, thrilling and wonderful. -Less than a thousand visitors at present make the journey to the Caves -each year. - -To the graphic description of Arthur O. Wheeler, president and founder -of the Canadian Alpine Club, together with the report of W. S. Ayres, -the mining engineer who was commissioned by this department to report on -the Caves, the substance of this pamphlet is indebted. - -The Dominion Government is at present having work done which will render -accessible to the public this unusual and somewhat gruesome curiosity. A -good road is already built between the little alplike town of Glacier to -within 6,000 feet of the Caves and a trail connects this point with the -entrance. The distance is about seven miles by saddle pony from the -beautiful Canadian Pacific Railway hotel at Glacier to the end of the -road, and the whole journey can be finished on foot in five hours. The -ride is through scenes almost incomparable, perhaps even in the Rocky or -Selkirk mountains. - -The Yoho valley, in which flows the Cougar Creek, in the bed of which -are the Caves, possesses magnificent vistas of varied mountain scenery. -To quote Wheeler:—“It is difficult to express the wonder of the colour -contrasts that meet the eye in the ever changing panorama of snow-clad -peak, rock precipice dazzling névé, shining glacier ice and bronze-green -forest of pines, midst which nestle magic lakes of changing shades of -blue and green.” - -Mr. Wheeler remarks that the Cougar valley, in the bed of which are the -Caves, is of special interest for two reasons other than the Caves:— - -1. “It is of that special type known as ‘a hanging valley,’ or one that -has been carved out in a U-shaped cross-section by the action of glacial -erosion, and not in the form of a V, as would have occurred through the -action of water erosion alone. It is, moreover, a very pronounced form -of its type. The numerous small glaciers that still line the sides and -head of the valley give it exceeding great beauty and interest in summer -time.” - -2. “I know of no other spot in the Selkirks where alpine flora is more -abundant and varied, and this fact alone is an attraction not to be -despised.” - - - Description of the Valley of the Caves, - by A. O. Wheeler. - -“The valley of Cougar creek is divided into two parts of distinctly -different characteristics. The upper valley, a great spoon-shaped basin -extending from Lookout point to Cougar pass, is a most pronounced form -of the type known as ‘hanging valley,’ or one that has been carved out -in a U-shaped cross section by the eroding power of a glacier at one -time filling up its bottom. This glacier has now shrunk to very small -proportions at the extreme head of the valley. The floor is on a -comparatively low grade and, at one point, is covered for about half a -mile by a small lake-bed in which some water lies during the summer. The -entire length of the upper valley may be put at 2½ miles. It is inclosed -by the rocky steeps of Mount Bagheera, Catamount peak and Mount Ursus -Major, on the north, and of Cougar mountain on the south. On the sides -of these massives are small glaciers, busy at work tearing down the -entire structures. At the head of the valley, Cougar pass leads across -the shrunken glacier to a steep ravine descending to the railway at some -distance below Ross Peak station. - - [Illustration: On the road to the Caves—Showing Cougar Valley; Mts. - Ursus Major and Bagheera in distance.] - - [Illustration: Douglas Falls—Near the Caves.] - -“It would be difficult to find a more beautiful example of the alpine -valley. In every direction silver water-falls leap down the sides from -the glaciers and melting snows of the surrounding peaks. These collect -at the bottom of the valley in one central stream which bounds in -foaming cascades to the little lake-bed mentioned above. It leaves this, -and, continually augmented by falls from above, rushes through luxurious -meadow-lands in a second series of cascades that have worn down to -bedrock, showing where a thin veneer of soil is overlaying it. The -alpine meadows and park-lands, as well as the open mountain slopes of -the valley, are throughout the spring and summer decked with a gorgeous -array of flowers of varied hues which, in places, are so profuse and -brilliant that it seems as though nature had spread a carpet of rainbow -colours for the delight and wonder of her visitors. In early spring, the -giant Adder’s Tongue (_Erythronium gigantium_) covers whole acres with a -brilliant yellow. These flowers are the first, and may be seen pushing -their heads up through the snow. Like all spring flowers in this region, -they follow the melting snows, and may be found higher up in the valley -as late as August. Almost coincident with them is the Globe flower -(_Trollius laxus_), a plant of much beauty and great wealth of blossom. -Next come the scarlet and crimson Painter’s Brush (_Castilleia_), -showing everywhere in the open and on the lower slopes with a blaze of -glory. Later still, the blue Larkspur (_Delphinium bicolor_) and purple -and pink Asters replace the earlier series, the crimson and yellow -Monkey-flower (_Mimulus_) are found in the beds of the streams and where -moisture is prevalent; high up in the valley and on the alp-lands below -the rocks are seen the False Heaths (_Bryanthus_ and _Cassiope_) and, -highest of all, the pink-flowering moss (_Silene acaulis_), found in -magnificently flowered bunches directly below the ice. There are very -many other species more rare, and just as beautiful in blossom, but of -not so frequent or noticeable occurrence. - -“The timber consists, in this upper valley, chiefly of spruce and -balsam, trees which, at this elevation, in the Selkirks attain a grace -and beauty that is not noticed in the more crowded areas of lower -altitudes. Here they rise symmetrically to a great height, and their -sweeping lower boughs form shaded canopies that are most inviting during -the sultry summer weather. - -“As the head of the valley is approached, a short climb will convey the -explorer to the ice of several small glaciers where he may study with -ease their formation and action, look into miniature crevasses and see -how moraines of rock detritus are formed by the downward flow of the -ice. - -“At the site of the Caves, Cougar Creek valley turns from a -northeasterly to a southeasterly direction, and falls sharply 2,000 feet -from Lookout point to the tank, as compared with 1,200 feet for the -upper valley in the same distance, about two miles. The lower valley is -V-shaped and has, for the most part, been carved out by the action of -water erosion. The sides except immediately adjacent to the railway are -timbered only in patches and are for the most part covered by closely -growing alders, bracken and rank grass which have replaced the timber -where the slopes have been swept clear by avalanches from the heights -above. Through the latter half of this section of the valley the stream -flows in a narrow canyon and the fall is steep. As soon as the corner is -turned and the slopes of the Illecillewaet valley reached, a magnificent -forest growth of Douglas fir (_Pseudotsuga Douglasii_), hemlock (_Tsuga -Mertensiana_), cedar (_Thuga gigantea_), and a few scattered trees of -white pine (_Pinus strobus_) is passed through. - - [Illustration: Goat Falls—Near the entrance to the Caves.] - -“From a natural history point of view, the upper valley is exceptional, -due largely to the absence of visitors in the past. The Rocky Mountain -goat (_Haplocerus montanus_) may be seen frequently, and his tracks are -everywhere along the heights. During one of our visits a grizzly bear -(_Ursus ferox_) was killed by Deutschman. The black bear (_Ursus -americana_) is plentiful at the head of bear creek across Baloo pass, -and it may be safely assumed that he does not fail to visit Cougar -valley. Of the smaller mammals, the hoary marmot or whistler (_Arctomys -Columbianus_) is plentiful in both the upper and lower valley, and is -here found in large numbers, larger in size and giving forth a louder -and more shrill whistle than in the main range of the Rockies. Its -startling note is very human and resembles much the noise that delights -the heart of the small boy, produced by placing the fingers between the -lips. Say’s squirrel (_Spermophilus lateralis_) and Parry’s marmot -(_Spermophilus Parryi_) are also found, the latter in great numbers. The -Little Chief hare (_Logomys princeps_) is frequently seen disporting -itself among the rocks, and its comical antics and quaint squeak, -resembling that of a toy rabbit, are very amusing. - -“The birds are few, and in the upper valley are chiefly confined to the -Ptarmigan (_Lagopus leucurus_), of which a flock may nearly always be -seen, the water ousel or dipper (_Cinclus Mexicanus_), a funny little -dark grey chap who flits from stone to stone along the cascades and -falls of the valley, continually bobbing and dipping as though it were -the object and aim of his existence. This bird has a very sweet note. Of -other birds the black-headed jay (_Cyanocitta stelleri annectens_) and -the Rocky Mountain Whisky Jack (_Perisoreus Canadensis capitalis_) are -the most apparent. - -“Taken as a whole, this wonderful valley is worthy of a visit quite -independently of the attractions offered by the Caves, and it would be -difficult to find a more representative or better type of valley to -illustrate the various phases of nature in the Selkirks—scenery, -geology, natural history and botany.” - -It was in the year 1904 that Charles Henry Deutschman of Revelstoke, a -British subject, while prospecting and hunting big game, discovered the -Caves in series. - -The next person to enter the Caves after Deutschman was A. Johnston, -editor of the Revelstoke _Mail-Herald_. Next, in May, 1905, a party of -twelve persons, including W. S. Ayres, the mining engineer, Howard -Douglas, superintendent of Rocky Mountains Park, and R. B. Bennett, the -Associated Press correspondent at Vancouver and now member of the -Dominion House representing Calgary, visited the Caves. Most of this -party, however, returned to Glacier on the following day and left -Messrs. Ayres, Deutschman, Johnston, Benson and Field to make further -explorations. - - [Illustration: On the road to the Caves—Mt. Avalanche, Eagle Peak, Mt. - Sir Donald.] - - - Mr. Ayres’ Description of this Exploration. - -“On the morning of May 30, the entire party entered the cave by the -opening which I have designated on the map as ‘Entrance No. 1.’ Pools of -water more or less filled with ice were encountered, which greatly -impeded our progress, and finally a very deep one, at a distance of 237 -feet from the surface, barred further progress until a raft could be -prepared. Retracing our steps to the surface we sought an entrance in -‘The Canyon’ by means of a rope. This passage was about 70 feet below -the natural surface and about 100 feet above the bottom of ‘The Canyon,’ -was very small and blocked with ice. I have designated this opening as -‘Entrance No. 2,’ on the map. - -“Another opening was found which is recorded as ‘Entrance No. 3.’ Here, -by crawling through a very narrow passage on hands and knees and then -descending a steep narrow water groove for about 50 feet the brink of a -very large cavern was reached that was estimated to be 256 feet deep, -but its length and breadth were, owing to their great extent and to the -insufficiency of lights at hand, inaccessible. It was observable, -however, that several openings led off from this great cavern. The -plunge and roar of a great waterfall somewhere down in the depths of -this cavern reverberates in every inch of space, and produces in the -listener sensations so weird that even those that have elsewhere met its -counterpart are at first startled. - -“No further attempt was made at this time to explore the cave through -this entrance for the reason that the three hundred feet of rope sent by -Mr. Ford, resident engineer of the C.P.R., for our use, had not yet been -brought up to the cave from the water tank. On the following day another -obstacle presented itself. The rapidly melting snow formed a sudden rush -of water which poured down the mountain side and into this opening, and -made it not only inaccessible for the time being, but proved it to be -positively dangerous to enter for any extended explorations until the -snow has practically disappeared. - -“On the afternoon of May 31, and the forenoon of June 1, a raft and -additional ladders were constructed to cross over the large pool that -impeded our progress on May 30 in ‘Entrance No. 1.’ While we were eating -our noon meal on the 31st, Cougar creek overflowed into this entrance. -We made the attempt to descend but were drenched with water, and our -lights were put out. We constructed a dam to prevent this, as far as -possible, and at 6 a.m. on June 2 we again descended into the cave by -this entrance, and found at a distance of 331 feet from the surface a -large square chamber, 50 feet wide by 60 feet, that was accessible. A -large portion of its length was inaccessible owing to Cougar creek, -which flows across it, and to accumulated ice. We named this chamber -‘The Auditorium.’ - -“At a point in the main entrance just as we emerge from ‘The -Auditorium,’ a branch passage was found which again joins the main -entrance about 100 feet from the surface. This branch passage is marked -on the map as A-B. Another branch passage was found to connect this -entrance with the surface and it is designated on the map as B-C. A -diligent search in this part of the cave disclosed no other accessible -openings. - -“A descent by ropes to the bottom of the canyon at ‘Entrance No. 2’ was -considered but it was deemed entirely unsafe, owing to the very large -accumulated mass of snow which might slide into it at any moment, and -without warning. Besides this, no entry can be made until Cougar creek -has subsided to a mere brook. - -“The falls, designated on the map as ‘Lower Goat Falls,’ were visited -with the hope that an entrance might be effected to the very large -cavern by the passage through which the water from the fall enters; but -it was practically filled with water and ice. The falls consist of two -vertical drops, the upper one is about 30 feet and the lower one 50 -feet. A large amount of water is delivered into the cave from these -falls, the place of entry being immediately at its foot. It is called -‘Entrance No. 4.’ - -“No other openings were discovered by which access might be had to the -large cavern, and we are barred from entering it by those openings -already described, and for the reasons given, until such time as the -spring floods may have fully subsided.” - -Mr. A. O. Wheeler, D.L.S., accompanied by Deutschman, was the next -explorer, and the following is Mr. Wheeler’s description of their -experiences in the new caves which were discovered during this visit:— - - - Mr. Wheeler’s Exploration and Description of the Caves. - -“Up to this time, only the Gopher Bridge series and the Mill Bridge -series (see map) had been explored. It was not until a day or two before -the close of the survey, August 4, that an attempt was made to penetrate -the huge opening seen at the north end of the bottom of the gorge. On -the date named, the writer descended by means of a knotted rope, and was -followed by Deutschman. The stream was then at high water, and pouring -into the opening with a tremendous rush and swirl of waters. Although -the creek was crossed by wading waist deep in the icy torrent, it was -found impossible to penetrate more than a couple of hundred feet into -the depth. Later in the month Deutschman, alone and unaided, penetrated -this opening and worked his way across the stream, discovering what is -now referred to as the Gorge series, or the series of passageways -reached by the opening from the Gorge. And here the writer begs to say a -word or two concerning this remarkable man. The work of exploration he -has done without assistance, shows a character utterly devoid of fear. -The descent into depths of blackest darkness, lighted only by the dim -rays of a tallow dip, without a rope or other aid except in a case of -direst necessity, requires more than courage; it requires strength of -purpose and power of will far beyond the ordinary degree. For, added to -the thick darkness, there was always the fierce vibrating roar of -subterranean torrents, a sound most nerve shaking in a position -sufficiently uncanny and demoralizing without it. Huge cracks had to be -crossed, and precipitous descents made in pitch darkness, where, it is -safe to say, a misstep would have instant death, either suddenly or -through disablement. Now that ladders are placed and ropes set, and the -sure path pointed out by this intrepid guide, it is difficult to realize -how in the first place the passage could possibly have been made -without. - - [Illustration: Typical Alpland—On Mt. Abbott about 1 mile south of - Glacier.] - -“The first visitor after Deutschman to the Gorge series was a Mr. Lang, -of Golden, B.C., who very nearly met with a serious accident when -climbing up the rope from the bottom of the gorge to the floor of the -valley, 80 feet above. He had nearly reached the top when his strength -gave out, and he slid back down the rope, arriving at the bottom in a -much bruised condition, but fortunately with no bones broken.” - -Mr. Wheeler furnishes a splendid detail description of the various -series of caves, and it is thought well to reproduce this description -_in extenso_:— - - - Gopher Bridge Series. - -“On leaving the lake-bed above mentioned, Cougar creek flows in a series -of cascades for a little more than half a mile through open alpine -meadowland, broken here and there by knolls crowned with scrubby spruce. -Suddenly, without warning, it drops into a cavity and, 450 feet farther -down, quietly issues from its underground way. During this disappearance -the stream has only dropped 30 feet. The intervening space between the -entry into and exit from the ground has been named ‘Gopher Bridge’ by -the first party visiting the Caves, owing to the large numbers of -Parry’s marmot, which much resembles a gopher, to be seen in the -immediate vicinity, and the underlying passages are here referred to as -the Gopher Bridge series. Directly opposite the disappearance of the -creek, two striking cascades tumble down the mountain side and uniting, -flow for a short space parallel to Cougar creek; then, vanishing into a -hole in the ground, they join the main stream by a subterranean passage. -They are known as ‘Gopher Falls,’ and the place where they disappear as -the ‘Gopher Hole’ (see map of Caves). - -“The Gopher Bridge series of passageways was at first entered by the -opening shown on the map as ‘Old Entrance.’ It was a very disagreeable -operation, entailing much wriggling and squeezing through narrow cracks -over dirty rocks. Eventually, a point of vantage was reached directly -over the subterranean torrent. At the time of the first exploration the -writer took acetylene bicycle lamps, whose bull’s-eyes enabled the pitch -darkness to be pierced to some extent. Magnesium wire also was lighted, -and, by its aid, for a brief minute, the interior was bathed in dazzling -brightness. Standing on a narrow ledge that overhangs a black abyss, the -eye is first drawn by a subterranean waterfall heard roaring immediately -on the left. It appears to pour from a dark opening above it. Below, -between black walls of rock, may be seen the foam-flecked torrent -hurtling down the incline until lost in sense shadows. Overhead, -fantastic spurs and shapes reach out into the blackness and the entire -surroundings are so weird and uncanny that it is easy to imagine Dante -seated upon one of these spurs deriving impressions for his inferno. As -the brilliant light goes out the thick darkness makes itself felt, and -instinctively you feel to see if Charon is not standing beside you. This -subterranean stream, with its unearthly surroundings, is somewhat -suggestive of the Styx, and incidentally supplied the name ‘Avernus’ for -the cavern of the waterfall. - -“At one time the stream entered by this opening, but a natural dam has -gradually been formed causing it to find a new opening at the spot where -it is now shown disappearing on the map. About midway between the -entrance of the creek and the old entrance, Deutschman has excavated a -small natural opening to a size sufficiently large enough to admit an -average person with comfort. A small passage joins with the underground -way of the creek, and by following along its edge you eventually come to -the point of vantage previously described. _En route_, several small -chambers are passed, originally carved out of the rock in the form of -potholes by the swirl and swish of the waters, but since much distorted -in shape owing to disintegration of the cleavage planes. The spot is -unique and wonderful, and the sensations it produces eerie in the -extreme. It is well worthy of a visit. - -[Illustration: On the road 2 miles from Glacier—Ross Peak in distance.] - - - Mill Bridge Series. - -“On making its exit at the eastern end of Gopher Bridge, Cougar creek -pours down a narrow rock-cut for a distance of 350 feet, when it again -disappears in a whirl of flying spray below the surface of the valley. -It reappears, 300 feet farther on at the bottom of a deep gorge, having -dropped 85 feet while underground. The interval between the exit and -entrance has been named Mill bridge by the party previously mentioned, -on account of the roar of the water as it rushes underground through the -choked entrance, resembling the noise made by a big mill in full -operation. - -“The rock-cut above referred to is narrow, about 8 to 10 feet wide, and -of regular appearance. The upper half presents a series of cascades and -falls, and the sides show curious small potholes that are in the process -of erosion from the soft limestone. It has been named ‘The Flume,’ owing -to its resemblance to a millrace. There are several openings at the -point where the creek disappears, and its last spectacular leap as it -vanishes underground is very striking. 70 feet farther east is a larger -opening, at one time the point where the stream disappeared, but as the -rush of water cut deeper in the rock channel it took advantage of a -handy crack and gradually carved out for itself the opening where the -full volume now descends. - -“About the centre of the flume, on the eastern side, and 30 feet from -it, is the entrance to the Mill Bridge series of the caves, shown on the -map as ‘Entrance No. 1.’ This entrance is a mere cleft in the rock -strata, and is only wide enough to admit of the passage of a man’s body. -The total length of the underground passageway, at one time -accommodating a very considerable volume of water, is 400 feet. The -height varies from a minimum of 10 feet to a maximum of 25 feet, and the -width from 3 to 15 feet. At its eastern end it opens to an -irregularly-shaped chamber of approximately 60 by 70 feet, with a -greatest height of 20 feet. This chamber has been named ‘The Auditorium’ -by the first exploring party. Cougar creek in its flow beneath Mill -bridge passes through the Auditorium, and as it falls 75 feet in a -distance of 200 feet, from its entrance beneath Mill bridge to the -Auditorium, the chamber is replete with its roar, and the name is -appropriate, though hardly in the conventional sense of the word. Faint -daylight enters through the passageway of the waters and serves to make -the surroundings look dim and mysterious. The frosts of winter also -reach this spot, and in the spring stalactites and stalagmites, formed -of huge icicles, are seen in columnar groups surrounding the dashing -waters and extending some distance into the chamber itself. In this -particular spot disintegration has created much havoc and the walls no -longer show the marks of water erosion, while the floor is heaped with -rock debris fallen from the ceiling. The passageway, however, that -connects it with the surface is still intact as a sample of the power of -water erosion. It is composed of a series of potholes, connected one -with the other by short narrow passages. The bottom of each succeeding -pothole, as you recede from the entrance, is at a lower elevation, -sometimes as much as ten or fifteen feet. To make access possible, -Deutschman has, with the assistance of a bridge carpenter loaned by T. -Kilpatrick, superintendent of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company at -Revelstoke, placed rough ladders from floor to floor. Most of these -potholes hold water in the hollows at the bottom, and, in one case, the -water is so deep—4 or 5 feet—and the potholes so wide that a floating -bridge had to be built. When it is realized that every bit of timber -used in these constructions had to be hewn from the tree and transported -on the shoulder or back, over a road hardly accessible for a mountain -goat, to the place where it was utilized, some idea of the magnitude of -the work can be formed. - -“At one spot the passageway twists in a loop, and here the potholes are -of such a curiously spiral form that it has been named ‘The Corkscrew.’ -Across this bend, about 12 feet above the main floor, a gallery extends -for 120 feet. It is of a similar pothole formation, but on a smaller -scale than the main passageway. Directly below it, at the lower end, is -a peculiar sharp spike of rock that has evidently been subsequently -carved out by water pouring from this gallery, as is readily shown by -the erosionmarks on the component rocks. In addition to the lines of -erosion on the rock spike and in the gallery pothole, honey-combing is -seen on the right and high up on the left and, still farther on the -left, spatulated markings to the depth of half an inch, or a little -over, which is a very common feature in all three series. - -“Throughout the Mill Bridge series, with the exception of the -Auditorium, the floors and ceilings are of water-worn rock, and -practically no debris has fallen away pointing to the fact that this -channel is of more recent origin, and the rock through which it has worn -of a more compact stratification. - -“At one time it was reported that the roof of this passage was set with -sparkling quartz crystals. It turned out, however, that they were only -drops of water that had collected through leakage or condensation. Some -of the potholes are very curiously marked by thin incrustations of -carbonate of lime spreading over their concave surfaces in florescent -patterns. Overhead in many places are seen projecting spurs that have -withstood the action of the water owing to superior hardness, or that, -through some deflection of the current, have not had the same force -brought to bear upon them. The waters of Cougar creek are derived from -the melting glaciers and snow deposits lining the sides of the peaks -enclosing the valley and, in consequence, carry a considerable quantity -of sediment, composed of very fine rock particles. The quantity of -sediment carried would, of course, be greatest when the stream was at -flood stage. This sediment has doubtless been a factor of much -importance in the erosive power of the waters, and a residue may to-day -be seen as a very thin mud-coloured coating on the walls and floors of -the passageways, where it has been deposited by the subsiding waters. At -a very high stage of water in the creek there was an overflow into -Entrance No. 1 that made the first exploration by W. S. Ayres and party -a wet and somewhat dangerous operation. This overflow, however, was -dammed back by Deutschman, and no further trouble has since been -experienced with it. - - - The Gorge Series. - -“As stated above, the exit of Cougar creek from Mill bridge takes place -at the bottom of a narrow crack, or gorge, running at right angles to -the general direction of the stream. The Gorge is 300 feet in length, -about 50 feet wide, and is spanned by two natural rock bridges. The -sides are composed of badly shattered limestone. On emerging from its -subterranean course beneath Mill bridge, the creek flows through the -Gorge 80 feet below the floor of the valley. At the lower or north end -is the opening that leads to the largest and most interesting of the -series of passageways forming the Nakimu Caves. The Gorge forms a very -striking feature of the external scenery, and several places are -accessible from which views may be had into its depths that are wild and -impressive in the extreme. The opening is a dome-shaped break in the -wall forming the north end. Into this the stream tumbles with wild fury -over a confusion of huge fragments of rock piled up in the passageway. -It creates leaps and falls and a dissemination of spray that makes the -opening to the outer world, as seen from below, appear through a -luminous mist. The aperture is some thirty feet wide and about the same -height. - -[Illustration: View from Road—Mt. Avalanche, Eagle Peak, Mt. Sir Donald.] - -“Proceeding downwards, at the foot of the falls, the channel resumes its -normal direction of a little south of east. It is necessary here to -cross the stream, which swings northward into lower depths, and from now -on the passageways are quite free from wet, though somewhat damp from -the moistness of the Atmosphere. At the turn of the Creek’s direction -you enter a chamber 150 feet long, 25 feet wide and from 10 feet high at -the upper end to 30 feet at the lower end. This chamber is dimly -illuminated by the daylight from outside. It is in a bad state of ruin, -and the floor is heaped with debris thrown from the ceiling and sides. -The roof is composed of one immense slab of rock sloping with the dip of -the strata. The creek has broken through the northeast wall nearly in -the middle of the chamber and disappears into the blackness with a dull -reverberating roar. Fifty feet beyond the creek, the passage turns north -again and it is necessary to descend a rock face of some 12 feet. On it -are natural notches or footholds that would seem as though they had been -cut with a cold-chisel for the special purpose; for persons unaccustomed -to climbing, it is well to use a rope to steady the descent at this -spot. The creek is now heard far down, welling through some rock-cut -with a dull, intermittent pounding, resembling the blows of an immense -sledge-hammer. Forty feet to the right, through a low roofed passage -about 2 feet high, you creep into the ‘Dropping Cave.’ It is about 30 by -40 feet and 6 to 10 feet high, and so named from the fact that water -drops from the roof in all directions. The floor is composed of broken -rock fragments, and the walls and ceilings of dark blue limestone marked -in places by irregular streaks of white crystalline calcite. At the -eastern end, a very narrow passage between fallen masses of rock, -affording barely room to squeeze through, leads to ‘The Witches -Ball-room.’ It is 1½ to 2 feet wide, 3 to 4 feet high and some 20 feet -in length. - -“The Ball-room is roughly triangular in shape with sides of about 60 -feet, and an estimated height of 50 feet. The largest portion of the -space is occupied by an enormous rock that has fallen from the roof. -This rock has a generally level surface, and is just the spot where a -group of witch-hags might be expected to caper round the ghastly fumes -of some hellish cauldron at a Sabbath meeting; hence the name, in -sympathy with the ill-omened and weird surroundings. On all sides, -except that of the passage, are deep cracks partly choked up by fallen -blocks but still exposing many deep and pitch-black holes leading to the -unknown, where the underground stream is heard roaring dully. By one of -these, at the northeast corner of the chamber, W. S. Ayres and C. H. -Deutschman penetrated to ‘The Terror’ and ‘The Old Mill,’ the former 60 -odd feet below the Ball-room. Their explorations in this quarter are -shown on the accompanying map, in red, and a description of them will be -found in Mr. Ayres’ supplementary report. Many of the fallen blocks show -crystalline calcite markings similar to those found in the Dropping -Cave. - -“Leaving the Ball-room the passage leads southeasterly for a distance of -125 feet to where there is a parting of the ways. The upper end is a -vaulted chamber, 15 to 20 feet wide and about 20 feet high, a crack on -the left, leading to the depths below, has been partly filled by fallen -rock debris. The broken blocks of which the floor is composed show -crystallized dark blue limestone, veined with white ribbons of calcite. -For the lower portion, the passage lies between separated limestone -strata from 3 to 7 feet apart; the floor, of broken boulders and slabs -is very irregular. Both roof and floor are water-worn and show erosion -markings. They descend until they meet 20 to 30 feet below. The -subterranean stream is heard with a muffled roar on the left. On the -right, three passages, met at intervals, lead to two circular -funnel-like chambers, the more distant of which has been named ‘The -Pit.’ - -“It is now necessary to return to the surface and seek ingress to the -caves by means of Entrance No. 3, not far from the Gorge on the eastern -side. Entrance No. 3 is close by Lookout point and is the first -accessible opening seen on the journey up the valley. A descent is made -some 10 or 12 feet by a rough ladder, placed by Deutschman, to a small -cavern where there is just room for three persons to crouch. Off this, a -very narrow slit, through which it is barely possible to squeeze, opens -to a narrow chute. Down this chute, by means of a rope placed around the -body, a descent can be made some 20 feet, to the brink of space. From -the final ledge a stone will drop a long way before it strikes. The -total distance from the opening to the brink of the Pit is 60 feet. - -“When surveying the Gorge series, the writer discovered a very peculiar -passage, shown on the map as the ‘Marbleway.’ It was of a perfectly -eroded structure, composed of a number of small connected potholes in a -dark bluish-grey limestone, shot in every direction by ribbon streaks of -white crystalline calcite. The walls were dripping with moisture and -rendered the limestone dead black and the veins of calcite vivid white, -the whole resembling a rich glistening marble. This passage was followed -to the larger one shown on the map, and that in turn to the circular -chamber named ‘The Pit.’ It seemed probable that this was the spot where -stones, dropped from the ledge attained by Entrance No. 3, first struck, -so Deutschman was sent to reconnoitre and, not long afterwards, his face -could be seen near the extreme apex of the roof peering down through the -dim halo of his tallow dip. A stone tied to a cord and subsequently -measured showed the drop to the floor of the Pit to be 120 feet. - -“The chamber is about 20 feet in diameter and rises like a gigantic -funnel to something over the height named. The walls are similar to -those of the Marbleway, and some of the effects are very peculiar, -reminding the beholder of forked lightning on a dead black background. -At the bottom of the Pit was seen a very queer slab of rock, shaped -almost perfectly like a monumental tombstone, and having directly in its -centre, as though carved by hand, a cross (+). The descent from the -floor of the Pit to the main passage, although slightly precipitous in -one or two places, is quite easy, the distance being 120 and 130 feet by -the main way and Marbleway, respectively. The walls of the Pit funnel -are water-worn and, at one time, a stream flowed into it by Entrance No. -3, doubtless being the cause of the formation of the chamber. The -stream, which now only carries off the surplus flow from the melting -snows, has found another subterranean opening and joins Cougar creek in -its underground way, somewhere beyond the Ball-room. - -“At the meeting of the ways above referred to, the lower or eastern one -is named ‘The Slanting Way’ from the fact that the passage is formed by -a separation of the limestone strata, and lies across their dip. The -upper passage has an arched roof and has been named ‘The Subway.’ Both -are difficult to traverse: the former on account of the broken debris -and sloping rock of which the floors are formed, and of two -uncomfortably narrow places which can be squeezed through with -difficulty; the latter on account of the close proximity of floor and -ceiling and the necessity of bending nearly double for a considerable -part of the distance while traversing it. The lower passage is the -easier of the two. The strata forming the Slanting Way are from five to -ten feet apart. The slabs of both roof and floor are water-worn and bear -spatulated erosion marks, like incipient honey-combing. On the east, or -left side, as you advance, are deep cracks in the strata, at the bottom -of whose depths Cougar creek may be heard echoing loudly through the -vaulted ways. Stones dropped into these seem to rebound for a long time -before resting. About the centre of the Slanting Way the cracks in the -strata expand and a descent may be made to the bed of Cougar creek below -the Turbine. The Turbine is reached by a rather difficult passage -requiring some skill in climbing. The end of the passage is an irregular -opening in the rock. Across a chasm, at whose bottom flows the main -stream, a number of water-spouts rush out with great force and a noise -resembling that produced by water falling into the pit of a turbine. For -an account of this section see Ayres’ report. Near the south end of the -Slanting Way is a curious pothole on the left-hand side. Directly beyond -it the floor and walls are covered by an incrustation of carbonate of -lime, varying in thickness from 2 to 6 inches. It is of a light creamy -colour, shading off in some places to a delicate salmon. The formation -has a florescent appearance and resembles, mostly, cauliflower heads set -closely together, a simile derived from W. S. Ayres’ report. Owing to -the beautiful floral decorations, this particular spot has been named -‘The Art Gallery.’ - -“Similar decorations are found throughout the Caves, though not so -extensively as at this and a few other places. At some, there is only a -thin veneer of the carbonate formation and, at others, rock-milk -(_agaric mineral_) is seen on the floors and boulders. The writer did -not observe any stalagmites, nor any stalactites worth speaking of. The -longest did not exceed 15 inches, and resembled, more than anything -else, a thin icicle of that length; its chief interest being that it was -clear and transparent, as though made of ice, and as brittle as glass. - -“The Subway is about 10 to 15 feet wide and from 7 to 2 feet high; the -roof is arched and covered by moisture drops, which are very unpleasant -when they find their way down your back. The floor is of broken rock, -rising to a ridge along the centre of the passageway. - -“From the meeting of the ways, just beyond the Art Gallery, the passage -continues southeasterly, ever increasing in interest. In the next 200 -feet, it varies in width from 15 to 30 feet with a height of 10 to 15 -feet. On the right is a narrow twisting side-opening named ‘The Gimlet.’ -On the left are two concave sections of old potholes, leading into the -most subterranean depths. They are profusely decorated by florescent -carbonate incrustations, the first one being named ‘The Dome’ from its -perfect formation. Minor passageways lead from them at a still greater -depth. The most southerly one connects with ‘Judgment Hall,’ to be -described further on (see map). In this section the underground course -of Cougar creek crosses the corridor, at a considerable depth below, and -the roar of the hidden waters is transferred from the left to the right -hand. - -“A narrow opening, 1½ feet wide and 15 feet long, now leads to -‘Carbonate Grotto’ where are seen very fine calcium decorations. The -Cavern containing the grotto is about 60 by 30 feet, with a height -varying from 10 to 15 feet. For the next 130 feet the passage varies -from 8 feet wide and 5 feet high at the upper end to 20 feet wide and 5 -feet high at the lower end. The sides are hung with rock shelves, and -spotted with lime incrustations; the bottom is much impeded by fallen -blocks. You now find yourself in a cul-de-sac and apparently at the end -of the series. Not so, however, for by squeezing through a narrow -opening on the right, barely noticeable in the darkness, you are enabled -to descend to probably the largest cavern of all, at a depth of 57 feet -below the corridor just left. The chamber, 200 feet long, 20 feet wide -and 40 to 50 feet high has been named ‘Judgment Hall,’ on account of a -pillar which might stand for the pillar of justice. The floor is -littered by blocks broken from the roof and sides which lie piled in -great heaps at the north end. The roof is roughly arched, and the sides -rise upwards in parallel ledges resembling shelves. Roof, sides, and the -rocks piled on the floor, are covered by the white calcite and, in many -places, present most beautiful patterns and beds of florescent -formations. The north end is connected by a rough passage with one of -the potholes referred to below the meeting of the ways. - -“Near the centre of the western wall, a narrow gap leads to a very -beautiful, though small, chamber named ‘The White Grotto’ by W. S. -Ayres. The carbonate decorations here are of great beauty and delicacy. -The passage in which the chamber is found is 40 feet long, 15 feet wide -and 10 feet high. The final cave has been named the ‘Bridal Chamber’ by -W. S. Ayres, owing to the purity of its lime draperies and the general -beauty of its floral decorations. It is small, and beyond this point -exploration has not yet been carried. The passage breaks off in a -precipice falling to a deep chasm, at the bottom of which a subterranean -stream, probably Cougar creek, may be heard. - -“This is the farthest point to which the present survey has been -carried. It is 240 feet from the Wind crack, previously referred to as -being seen on the way up the valley, and is only 54 feet above it; it is -safe to assume that there is a connection between. The wind issuing from -the crack is probably due to a water blast caused by the subterranean -stream falling into the chasm at the end of the exploration. - -“There are two other passages, or rather sets of passages, that have not -yet been mentioned, viz.: ‘The Ice Cave,’ situated above the deep -entrance from the Gorge. It is reached from the valley floor and is not -of large dimensions, presenting only one chamber of any size, which has -been christened ‘The Temple.’ The series has been named the Ice Cave -from the fact that the initial passage entrance is blocked by ice all -the year round, and an entry is effected over this blockage. - -“The second set of passages are entered immediately below the Goat -falls, which pour into them until late in October, when they become -ice-bound. Last October, the writer followed two of the passages—one for -about 150 feet, the other for about 50 feet—but could get no farther -without material for bridging. The formation resembles the passage -leading to the Auditorium, but on a smaller scale, viz., a series of -well formed potholes connected one with the other. It is assumed that -the flow from the Goat falls, the big bulk of which passes through these -two channels, empties into the main waterway at the Turbine, but its -course may possibly be more direct. If it does not, however, it is -difficult to know where the water flowing in at the Turbine comes from. - -“It is still something more than half a mile from the end of the present -exploration to the final point at which the subterranean waters of -Cougar creek are returned to the surface bed. There may consequently be -accessible passageways that are yet undiscovered but, as the surface -grade over this unknown interior is much steeper and the subterranean -creek bed is approaching the surface, it seems probable that, if -existing, they will be found inaccessible. - -“The fact of W. S. Ayres having at two places within the Gorge series -reached the actual bed of the subterranean stream would point to there -being no further passages below that level. It would, therefore, appear -that the largest accessible portion of the series is now on record. Much -of the part shown in red on the accompanying map is difficult of access -and dangerous to unskilled climbers. Indeed, for that matter, there are -plenty of difficult places throughout.” - - - Formation of the Caves. - -Mr. Ayres thinks that the Caves have been formed entirely by water -erosion, but Mr. Wheeler differs from him in this respect. Mr. Ayres -says:— - -“The rocks in which the Cave occurs are of very hard crystalline -limestone, dipping about 30 degrees to the east. In ‘Entrance No. 1’ -these beds are very thick and are made up of alternate bands of white, -mottled and grey marble. Some of the bands are very highly impregnated -with fine sharp sand, so much so, in fact, that excellent whetstones can -be made from them. - - [Illustration: On the road 3½ miles from Glacier. - White Pine may be observed along the route—a very unusual spectacle in - the Selkirk range of mountains.] - -“The Cave has, undoubtedly, been formed entirely by water erosion. The -stream which formed it, Cougar creek, is entirely made up of glacier and -snow water, and above the cave is free from any lime salts. Its -capacity, therefore, to dissolve lime rock when brought in contact with -it, is at its maximum. The fine grains of sharp sand, loosened from the -lime rock and caught in the swift current of the small stream that at -first found its way through a shrinkage crack of some particular bed of -limestone, have undoubtedly given the water an uncommon erosive power, -which, through the countless years of the cave’s history, has enabled -that mountain torrent to carve out a mammoth channel in solid marble. - -“The absence of all stalactites and stalagmites, such as are usually -found in caves, and the presence of curiously carved marble walls, -wonderfully carved in fantastic shapes and sombre colouring, suddenly -make one realize that he is far removed from things familiar.” - -The Indian word “Nakimu,” by which the Caves are generally known, has -the Anglo-Saxon equivalent of “grumbling.” - -This might imply that in some distant past a seismic disturbance in the -interior of the mountain resulted in its Indian appellation, or, on the -other hand, it may be due solely to the rumbling sound of the -subterranean torrent. - -Mr. Wheeler, in differing from Mr. Ayres as to the factors mainly -instrumental in forming the underground channels and caverns as seen -to-day, states his conviction that an agency, more potent and -far-reaching than mere erosion and disintegration by the ordinary -processes of nature, has been at work. - -In his arguments in this connection he says:— - -“From the point where Cougar creek first drops beneath Gopher bridge, -the old surface channel may be traced, though dammed and nearly -obliterated in places. If the natural dam shown at the first point of -entrance were removed, the stream would again revert to the old -entrance. Southwest of the old entrance is a still older natural dam, -whose removal would allow the stream to proceed to the Mill bridge; -thence, following the ravine between the two camp grounds, it would pass -directly across the Gorge, supposing that great rift not yet to exist, -and flowing past ‘Entrance No. 3,’ would descend in a cataract beyond -Lookout point. - -“There is no doubt that these particular beds of limestone are badly -shattered in the mass. It is shown by the fact that the surrounding -streams, the Gopher falls, the periodical stream flowing to Entrance No. -3, and that of the Goat falls all join the main stream by underground -ways. There are several other instances where the present bed of the -creek could hardly be due to shrinkage and erosion, as in the case of -the deep rift of the Gorge lying directly across the dip of the strata -(the strata dip a little south of east, at an angle between 35 degrees -and 40 degrees). The same thing is noticed in the subterranean bed of -the creek from the east end of the Witches Ball-room to where it crosses -the main corridor near the Art Gallery. - -“From October 16 to 21, last, during the survey made of the Gorge series -by the writer, though it was well below zero at the camp in the woods, -there was no frost found in the cave interiors at a short distance from -the entrance. Thus, two of the highest factors of disintegration, sun -and frost, are lacking, when accounting for the wholesale cleavage that -has taken place within the old waterways. The enormous size of the -blocks, moreover, and the indication that the largest of them had been -displaced a very long time ago would point to the agency of a severe -shock or series of shocks such as would be caused by an earthquake or -some similar seismic disturbance. That such disturbances have taken -place and acted in this particular locality is borne out by other -curious phenomena for which it is difficult to find a different -explanation. - -“In 1904, Prof. W. H. Sherzer, on behalf of the Smithsonian Institution -of Washington, D.C., visited the Canadian Rockies for the purpose of -studying their glaciers. Among a series of five, he made a special study -of the Illecillewaet glacier situated about seven and a half miles from -the Caves. At some distance from the present ice-tongue of the glacier, -were found two moraines about a third of a mile apart, composed of -enormous blocks of quartzite, weighing in some single instances as much -as 1,250 tons, and retaining the original shape in which they were cast -from the peaks above to the snow-field and glacier transporting them to -the place where they are now found. Prof. Sherzer has named these ‘Block -Moraines’ in distinction to ordinary moraines composed of ice-worn, -rounded boulders imbedded in a species of cement, commonly known as -boulder clay. - -“The question is: How and at what time were these block moraines formed. -At the present day the glaciers are wholly incapable of transporting -such a load, and no such quantities of material are to be found upon the -snow-field, below the peaks, as would be necessary to form a similar -moraine, even during a protracted period of rest on the part of the -glacier. - -“In the endeavor to ascertain a date for their formation, Prof. Sherzer -cut down trees growing between the two moraines and counted the rings of -growth. The oldest was found to have an age of 550 years. Trees, also, -growing on the inner or younger moraine were measured and the age of the -oldest ascertained to be 447 years. Allowing for the time required for -the collection of sufficient soil to permit of growth taking place, the -moraine, therefore, would be between 500 and 600 years old. - -“Professor Sherzer points to the probability of seismic disturbances -being the cause of these block moraines and that the material of which -they are formed had been shaken from the peaks to the snow-field below. -Making due allowance for the period of transportation of the material -forming the inner moraine, the earthquake would thus have occurred -during the thirteenth century. (See ‘Glacial Studies in the Canadian -Rockies and Selkirks, Smithsonian Expedition of 1904,’ by William -Hittell Sherzer, Ph. D.) - -“That disturbances of this nature have taken place in Canada at a much -more recent date is pointed out in the above report by the following -quotation from the ‘_Jesuite Relations_,’ Thwaites translations, vol. -xlvii, pp. 37-57; 183-223: ‘On the fifth of February, 1663, towards -half-past five in the evening, a loud roaring was heard at the same time -throughout the length and breadth of Canadas. . . . On level ground, -hills have arisen; mountains, on the other hand, have been depressed and -flattened. Chasms of wonderful depth, exhaling a foul stench, have been -hollowed out in many places, plains lie open, far and wide, where there -were formerly very dense and lofty forests. Cliffs, although not quite -levelled with the soil, have been shattered and overturned.’ - -[Illustration: Government building at the Caves for the use of visitors.] - -“If the origin of block moraines can be accounted for by seismic -disturbances, it is not improbable to assume that at some remote date a -similar occurrence has shattered this bed of crystalline limestone and -precipitated Cougar creek from its surface course into subterranean -channels, which, through the course of ages, it has enlarged to their -present size, and that subsequent shocks have been mainly responsible -for the large quantities of fallen debris that litter the interiors. -Under such a condition of affairs, the crack of the Gorge, and similar -chasms found below the surface, would be accounted for.” - -The gist of Mr. Ayres’ arguments concerning the probable age of the cave -is contained in the following paragraphs:— - -“The marble rocks in which the cave is formed belong most probably to -the Devonian age. No fossils were found, however, to positively verify -this conclusion. The limestone rocks have not been completely changed -into marble at all points as was observed under ‘Gopher Bridge’ and in -‘The Terror.’ Notwithstanding the fact that the rocks belong to a -comparatively old series, yet the beginning of the cave undoubtedly -dates from a very recent geological time. - -“Assuming the rate of erosion to be one thirty-second of an inch in a -year, then to cut down one hundred feet of rock, which is about the -average amount eroded in the main cave, would require 38,400 years. Any -actual rate greater or less than this assumption would increase or -diminish the age of the cave. In several places along Cougar creek in -the bottom of the cave an excellent opportunity is afforded to determine -actually the present annual rate of erosion. A micrometer measuring -apparatus should be used and the area of cross-section of the rock -eroded per year thus accurately computed. Also the ratio between the -area of the cross-section of the average stream and the area of the rock -eroded should be determined. And finally, the quantity of water passing -the given section in one year, and its velocity, should be accurately -measured. - -“In contemplating the foregoing suggestion as to the probable age of the -cave, it should be borne in mind that where gravel and sand lodge in the -bed of the stream the rate of erosion is many times less than where the -bed is continually swept clean by a more rapid current.” - - - EXCURSION SUGGESTIONS. - -Nakimu Caves may be reached by travelling to Glacier, in Glacier Park, -B.C., on the Canadian Pacific railway, and from that point either by -walking or riding on a pony a distance of about seven miles along -excellent road and trail. - - [Illustration: A pic-nic party at the Caves.] - -The distance to the Nakimu Caves from Glacier House by way of the wagon -road—Illecillewaet river and Cougar creek, is 7 miles; by horse trail, -via Rogers pass over the summit of Baloo pass to the Caves, the distance -is 3 miles farther. Baloo pass is 6681 feet above sea-level, and from -the summit is an extensive view, including not only the Hermit range and -McDonald, but the Dawson peaks, Bishop range and the mountains that girt -Cougar valley. - -At the Caves is a government building especially adapted for campers, -with cook stoves and other conveniences. Parties desiring to camp can -make arrangements by writing to C. H. Deutschman, The Caves, Glacier, -B.C. - -This camp is the starting point for many easy and hard rock climbs. - -From Cheops, whose altitude is 8,506 feet above sea-level, but only -3,300 feet above the cabin, the view is unsurpassed, owing to its -central location. The climb takes 3½ hours and, from the top, over 200 -glaciers can be counted, and on a clear day the Rocky mountains, 150 -miles away, can be seen guarding the horizon with rugged peaks. - -Cougar mountain (altitude, 7,882 feet, 2,500 feet above the camp) is an -easier and shorter climb of 2 hours. - -Ursus Major, altitude, 8,930 feet; Ursus Minor, altitude, 9,026 feet; -Catamount, altitude, 8,956 feet; Bagheera, altitude, 9,096 feet and many -others, are within the limit of a day’s climb. - -The ice caves under the Glacier at the head of Cougar valley are also -worth a visit. For botanists, this is a paradise, the alpine and -sub-alpine flowers being gorgeous and abundant, and many rare species -are found here. Over 150 species can be gathered in a short time in July -or August. - -A two days’ camping trip may be undertaken as follows:— - -From Glacier House via Baloo pass to the Nakimu Caves, exploring Bear -creek and Cougar valleys, spending the night at Camp, visiting “The -Caves” and arriving at Glacier in time for dinner the following evening. - - [Illustration: DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR - TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP - SHOWING THE POSITION OF - THE NAKIMU CAVES - in Cougar Creek Valley, Selkirk Mts. - British Columbia] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - ---Some palpable typographical errors were corrected. - ---Copyright and publisher’s information was included from the printed - copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Nakimu Caves, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NAKIMU CAVES *** - -***** This file should be named 51042-0.txt or 51042-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/0/4/51042/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Nakimu Caves - Glacier Dominion Park, B. C. - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: January 26, 2016 [EBook #51042] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NAKIMU CAVES *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - - - - - - - - - - The Nakimu Caves - Glacier Dominion Park, B. C. - - - [Illustration: On the road to the Caves--Ross Peak in centre.] - - DOMINION PARKS BRANCH - Department of the Interior - OTTAWA - 1914 - - - - - THE NAKIMU CAVES - GLACIER DOMINION PARK, B.C. - - -Near the summit of the Selkirk range of mountains in British Columbia is -one of the most curious series of subterranean caves in the world. Being -of recent discovery and, up to the present, almost inaccessible except -to the most agile and daring they remain practically unknown to the -world at large, but to those bold spirits who have dared their black -depths they have offered an experience, weird, thrilling and wonderful. -Less than a thousand visitors at present make the journey to the Caves -each year. - -To the graphic description of Arthur O. Wheeler, president and founder -of the Canadian Alpine Club, together with the report of W. S. Ayres, -the mining engineer who was commissioned by this department to report on -the Caves, the substance of this pamphlet is indebted. - -The Dominion Government is at present having work done which will render -accessible to the public this unusual and somewhat gruesome curiosity. A -good road is already built between the little alplike town of Glacier to -within 6,000 feet of the Caves and a trail connects this point with the -entrance. The distance is about seven miles by saddle pony from the -beautiful Canadian Pacific Railway hotel at Glacier to the end of the -road, and the whole journey can be finished on foot in five hours. The -ride is through scenes almost incomparable, perhaps even in the Rocky or -Selkirk mountains. - -The Yoho valley, in which flows the Cougar Creek, in the bed of which -are the Caves, possesses magnificent vistas of varied mountain scenery. -To quote Wheeler:--"It is difficult to express the wonder of the colour -contrasts that meet the eye in the ever changing panorama of snow-clad -peak, rock precipice dazzling nv, shining glacier ice and bronze-green -forest of pines, midst which nestle magic lakes of changing shades of -blue and green." - -Mr. Wheeler remarks that the Cougar valley, in the bed of which are the -Caves, is of special interest for two reasons other than the Caves:-- - -1. "It is of that special type known as 'a hanging valley,' or one that -has been carved out in a U-shaped cross-section by the action of glacial -erosion, and not in the form of a V, as would have occurred through the -action of water erosion alone. It is, moreover, a very pronounced form -of its type. The numerous small glaciers that still line the sides and -head of the valley give it exceeding great beauty and interest in summer -time." - -2. "I know of no other spot in the Selkirks where alpine flora is more -abundant and varied, and this fact alone is an attraction not to be -despised." - - - Description of the Valley of the Caves, - by A. O. Wheeler. - -"The valley of Cougar creek is divided into two parts of distinctly -different characteristics. The upper valley, a great spoon-shaped basin -extending from Lookout point to Cougar pass, is a most pronounced form -of the type known as 'hanging valley,' or one that has been carved out -in a U-shaped cross section by the eroding power of a glacier at one -time filling up its bottom. This glacier has now shrunk to very small -proportions at the extreme head of the valley. The floor is on a -comparatively low grade and, at one point, is covered for about half a -mile by a small lake-bed in which some water lies during the summer. The -entire length of the upper valley may be put at 2 miles. It is inclosed -by the rocky steeps of Mount Bagheera, Catamount peak and Mount Ursus -Major, on the north, and of Cougar mountain on the south. On the sides -of these massives are small glaciers, busy at work tearing down the -entire structures. At the head of the valley, Cougar pass leads across -the shrunken glacier to a steep ravine descending to the railway at some -distance below Ross Peak station. - - [Illustration: On the road to the Caves--Showing Cougar Valley; Mts. - Ursus Major and Bagheera in distance.] - - [Illustration: Douglas Falls--Near the Caves.] - -"It would be difficult to find a more beautiful example of the alpine -valley. In every direction silver water-falls leap down the sides from -the glaciers and melting snows of the surrounding peaks. These collect -at the bottom of the valley in one central stream which bounds in -foaming cascades to the little lake-bed mentioned above. It leaves this, -and, continually augmented by falls from above, rushes through luxurious -meadow-lands in a second series of cascades that have worn down to -bedrock, showing where a thin veneer of soil is overlaying it. The -alpine meadows and park-lands, as well as the open mountain slopes of -the valley, are throughout the spring and summer decked with a gorgeous -array of flowers of varied hues which, in places, are so profuse and -brilliant that it seems as though nature had spread a carpet of rainbow -colours for the delight and wonder of her visitors. In early spring, the -giant Adder's Tongue (_Erythronium gigantium_) covers whole acres with a -brilliant yellow. These flowers are the first, and may be seen pushing -their heads up through the snow. Like all spring flowers in this region, -they follow the melting snows, and may be found higher up in the valley -as late as August. Almost coincident with them is the Globe flower -(_Trollius laxus_), a plant of much beauty and great wealth of blossom. -Next come the scarlet and crimson Painter's Brush (_Castilleia_), -showing everywhere in the open and on the lower slopes with a blaze of -glory. Later still, the blue Larkspur (_Delphinium bicolor_) and purple -and pink Asters replace the earlier series, the crimson and yellow -Monkey-flower (_Mimulus_) are found in the beds of the streams and where -moisture is prevalent; high up in the valley and on the alp-lands below -the rocks are seen the False Heaths (_Bryanthus_ and _Cassiope_) and, -highest of all, the pink-flowering moss (_Silene acaulis_), found in -magnificently flowered bunches directly below the ice. There are very -many other species more rare, and just as beautiful in blossom, but of -not so frequent or noticeable occurrence. - -"The timber consists, in this upper valley, chiefly of spruce and -balsam, trees which, at this elevation, in the Selkirks attain a grace -and beauty that is not noticed in the more crowded areas of lower -altitudes. Here they rise symmetrically to a great height, and their -sweeping lower boughs form shaded canopies that are most inviting during -the sultry summer weather. - -"As the head of the valley is approached, a short climb will convey the -explorer to the ice of several small glaciers where he may study with -ease their formation and action, look into miniature crevasses and see -how moraines of rock detritus are formed by the downward flow of the -ice. - -"At the site of the Caves, Cougar Creek valley turns from a -northeasterly to a southeasterly direction, and falls sharply 2,000 feet -from Lookout point to the tank, as compared with 1,200 feet for the -upper valley in the same distance, about two miles. The lower valley is -V-shaped and has, for the most part, been carved out by the action of -water erosion. The sides except immediately adjacent to the railway are -timbered only in patches and are for the most part covered by closely -growing alders, bracken and rank grass which have replaced the timber -where the slopes have been swept clear by avalanches from the heights -above. Through the latter half of this section of the valley the stream -flows in a narrow canyon and the fall is steep. As soon as the corner is -turned and the slopes of the Illecillewaet valley reached, a magnificent -forest growth of Douglas fir (_Pseudotsuga Douglasii_), hemlock (_Tsuga -Mertensiana_), cedar (_Thuga gigantea_), and a few scattered trees of -white pine (_Pinus strobus_) is passed through. - - [Illustration: Goat Falls--Near the entrance to the Caves.] - -"From a natural history point of view, the upper valley is exceptional, -due largely to the absence of visitors in the past. The Rocky Mountain -goat (_Haplocerus montanus_) may be seen frequently, and his tracks are -everywhere along the heights. During one of our visits a grizzly bear -(_Ursus ferox_) was killed by Deutschman. The black bear (_Ursus -americana_) is plentiful at the head of bear creek across Baloo pass, -and it may be safely assumed that he does not fail to visit Cougar -valley. Of the smaller mammals, the hoary marmot or whistler (_Arctomys -Columbianus_) is plentiful in both the upper and lower valley, and is -here found in large numbers, larger in size and giving forth a louder -and more shrill whistle than in the main range of the Rockies. Its -startling note is very human and resembles much the noise that delights -the heart of the small boy, produced by placing the fingers between the -lips. Say's squirrel (_Spermophilus lateralis_) and Parry's marmot -(_Spermophilus Parryi_) are also found, the latter in great numbers. The -Little Chief hare (_Logomys princeps_) is frequently seen disporting -itself among the rocks, and its comical antics and quaint squeak, -resembling that of a toy rabbit, are very amusing. - -"The birds are few, and in the upper valley are chiefly confined to the -Ptarmigan (_Lagopus leucurus_), of which a flock may nearly always be -seen, the water ousel or dipper (_Cinclus Mexicanus_), a funny little -dark grey chap who flits from stone to stone along the cascades and -falls of the valley, continually bobbing and dipping as though it were -the object and aim of his existence. This bird has a very sweet note. Of -other birds the black-headed jay (_Cyanocitta stelleri annectens_) and -the Rocky Mountain Whisky Jack (_Perisoreus Canadensis capitalis_) are -the most apparent. - -"Taken as a whole, this wonderful valley is worthy of a visit quite -independently of the attractions offered by the Caves, and it would be -difficult to find a more representative or better type of valley to -illustrate the various phases of nature in the Selkirks--scenery, -geology, natural history and botany." - -It was in the year 1904 that Charles Henry Deutschman of Revelstoke, a -British subject, while prospecting and hunting big game, discovered the -Caves in series. - -The next person to enter the Caves after Deutschman was A. Johnston, -editor of the Revelstoke _Mail-Herald_. Next, in May, 1905, a party of -twelve persons, including W. S. Ayres, the mining engineer, Howard -Douglas, superintendent of Rocky Mountains Park, and R. B. Bennett, the -Associated Press correspondent at Vancouver and now member of the -Dominion House representing Calgary, visited the Caves. Most of this -party, however, returned to Glacier on the following day and left -Messrs. Ayres, Deutschman, Johnston, Benson and Field to make further -explorations. - -[Illustration: On the road to the Caves--Mt. Avalanche, Eagle Peak, Mt. - Sir Donald.] - - - Mr. Ayres' Description of this Exploration. - -"On the morning of May 30, the entire party entered the cave by the -opening which I have designated on the map as 'Entrance No. 1.' Pools of -water more or less filled with ice were encountered, which greatly -impeded our progress, and finally a very deep one, at a distance of 237 -feet from the surface, barred further progress until a raft could be -prepared. Retracing our steps to the surface we sought an entrance in -'The Canyon' by means of a rope. This passage was about 70 feet below -the natural surface and about 100 feet above the bottom of 'The Canyon,' -was very small and blocked with ice. I have designated this opening as -'Entrance No. 2,' on the map. - -"Another opening was found which is recorded as 'Entrance No. 3.' Here, -by crawling through a very narrow passage on hands and knees and then -descending a steep narrow water groove for about 50 feet the brink of a -very large cavern was reached that was estimated to be 256 feet deep, -but its length and breadth were, owing to their great extent and to the -insufficiency of lights at hand, inaccessible. It was observable, -however, that several openings led off from this great cavern. The -plunge and roar of a great waterfall somewhere down in the depths of -this cavern reverberates in every inch of space, and produces in the -listener sensations so weird that even those that have elsewhere met its -counterpart are at first startled. - -"No further attempt was made at this time to explore the cave through -this entrance for the reason that the three hundred feet of rope sent by -Mr. Ford, resident engineer of the C.P.R., for our use, had not yet been -brought up to the cave from the water tank. On the following day another -obstacle presented itself. The rapidly melting snow formed a sudden rush -of water which poured down the mountain side and into this opening, and -made it not only inaccessible for the time being, but proved it to be -positively dangerous to enter for any extended explorations until the -snow has practically disappeared. - -"On the afternoon of May 31, and the forenoon of June 1, a raft and -additional ladders were constructed to cross over the large pool that -impeded our progress on May 30 in 'Entrance No. 1.' While we were eating -our noon meal on the 31st, Cougar creek overflowed into this entrance. -We made the attempt to descend but were drenched with water, and our -lights were put out. We constructed a dam to prevent this, as far as -possible, and at 6 a.m. on June 2 we again descended into the cave by -this entrance, and found at a distance of 331 feet from the surface a -large square chamber, 50 feet wide by 60 feet, that was accessible. A -large portion of its length was inaccessible owing to Cougar creek, -which flows across it, and to accumulated ice. We named this chamber -'The Auditorium.' - -"At a point in the main entrance just as we emerge from 'The -Auditorium,' a branch passage was found which again joins the main -entrance about 100 feet from the surface. This branch passage is marked -on the map as A-B. Another branch passage was found to connect this -entrance with the surface and it is designated on the map as B-C. A -diligent search in this part of the cave disclosed no other accessible -openings. - -"A descent by ropes to the bottom of the canyon at 'Entrance No. 2' was -considered but it was deemed entirely unsafe, owing to the very large -accumulated mass of snow which might slide into it at any moment, and -without warning. Besides this, no entry can be made until Cougar creek -has subsided to a mere brook. - -"The falls, designated on the map as 'Lower Goat Falls,' were visited -with the hope that an entrance might be effected to the very large -cavern by the passage through which the water from the fall enters; but -it was practically filled with water and ice. The falls consist of two -vertical drops, the upper one is about 30 feet and the lower one 50 -feet. A large amount of water is delivered into the cave from these -falls, the place of entry being immediately at its foot. It is called -'Entrance No. 4.' - -"No other openings were discovered by which access might be had to the -large cavern, and we are barred from entering it by those openings -already described, and for the reasons given, until such time as the -spring floods may have fully subsided." - -Mr. A. O. Wheeler, D.L.S., accompanied by Deutschman, was the next -explorer, and the following is Mr. Wheeler's description of their -experiences in the new caves which were discovered during this visit:-- - - - Mr. Wheeler's Exploration and Description of the Caves. - -"Up to this time, only the Gopher Bridge series and the Mill Bridge -series (see map) had been explored. It was not until a day or two before -the close of the survey, August 4, that an attempt was made to penetrate -the huge opening seen at the north end of the bottom of the gorge. On -the date named, the writer descended by means of a knotted rope, and was -followed by Deutschman. The stream was then at high water, and pouring -into the opening with a tremendous rush and swirl of waters. Although -the creek was crossed by wading waist deep in the icy torrent, it was -found impossible to penetrate more than a couple of hundred feet into -the depth. Later in the month Deutschman, alone and unaided, penetrated -this opening and worked his way across the stream, discovering what is -now referred to as the Gorge series, or the series of passageways -reached by the opening from the Gorge. And here the writer begs to say a -word or two concerning this remarkable man. The work of exploration he -has done without assistance, shows a character utterly devoid of fear. -The descent into depths of blackest darkness, lighted only by the dim -rays of a tallow dip, without a rope or other aid except in a case of -direst necessity, requires more than courage; it requires strength of -purpose and power of will far beyond the ordinary degree. For, added to -the thick darkness, there was always the fierce vibrating roar of -subterranean torrents, a sound most nerve shaking in a position -sufficiently uncanny and demoralizing without it. Huge cracks had to be -crossed, and precipitous descents made in pitch darkness, where, it is -safe to say, a misstep would have instant death, either suddenly or -through disablement. Now that ladders are placed and ropes set, and the -sure path pointed out by this intrepid guide, it is difficult to realize -how in the first place the passage could possibly have been made -without. - - [Illustration: Typical Alpland--On Mt. Abbott about 1 mile south of - Glacier.] - -"The first visitor after Deutschman to the Gorge series was a Mr. Lang, -of Golden, B.C., who very nearly met with a serious accident when -climbing up the rope from the bottom of the gorge to the floor of the -valley, 80 feet above. He had nearly reached the top when his strength -gave out, and he slid back down the rope, arriving at the bottom in a -much bruised condition, but fortunately with no bones broken." - -Mr. Wheeler furnishes a splendid detail description of the various -series of caves, and it is thought well to reproduce this description -_in extenso_:-- - - - Gopher Bridge Series. - -"On leaving the lake-bed above mentioned, Cougar creek flows in a series -of cascades for a little more than half a mile through open alpine -meadowland, broken here and there by knolls crowned with scrubby spruce. -Suddenly, without warning, it drops into a cavity and, 450 feet farther -down, quietly issues from its underground way. During this disappearance -the stream has only dropped 30 feet. The intervening space between the -entry into and exit from the ground has been named 'Gopher Bridge' by -the first party visiting the Caves, owing to the large numbers of -Parry's marmot, which much resembles a gopher, to be seen in the -immediate vicinity, and the underlying passages are here referred to as -the Gopher Bridge series. Directly opposite the disappearance of the -creek, two striking cascades tumble down the mountain side and uniting, -flow for a short space parallel to Cougar creek; then, vanishing into a -hole in the ground, they join the main stream by a subterranean passage. -They are known as 'Gopher Falls,' and the place where they disappear as -the 'Gopher Hole' (see map of Caves). - -"The Gopher Bridge series of passageways was at first entered by the -opening shown on the map as 'Old Entrance.' It was a very disagreeable -operation, entailing much wriggling and squeezing through narrow cracks -over dirty rocks. Eventually, a point of vantage was reached directly -over the subterranean torrent. At the time of the first exploration the -writer took acetylene bicycle lamps, whose bull's-eyes enabled the pitch -darkness to be pierced to some extent. Magnesium wire also was lighted, -and, by its aid, for a brief minute, the interior was bathed in dazzling -brightness. Standing on a narrow ledge that overhangs a black abyss, the -eye is first drawn by a subterranean waterfall heard roaring immediately -on the left. It appears to pour from a dark opening above it. Below, -between black walls of rock, may be seen the foam-flecked torrent -hurtling down the incline until lost in sense shadows. Overhead, -fantastic spurs and shapes reach out into the blackness and the entire -surroundings are so weird and uncanny that it is easy to imagine Dante -seated upon one of these spurs deriving impressions for his inferno. As -the brilliant light goes out the thick darkness makes itself felt, and -instinctively you feel to see if Charon is not standing beside you. This -subterranean stream, with its unearthly surroundings, is somewhat -suggestive of the Styx, and incidentally supplied the name 'Avernus' for -the cavern of the waterfall. - -"At one time the stream entered by this opening, but a natural dam has -gradually been formed causing it to find a new opening at the spot where -it is now shown disappearing on the map. About midway between the -entrance of the creek and the old entrance, Deutschman has excavated a -small natural opening to a size sufficiently large enough to admit an -average person with comfort. A small passage joins with the underground -way of the creek, and by following along its edge you eventually come to -the point of vantage previously described. _En route_, several small -chambers are passed, originally carved out of the rock in the form of -potholes by the swirl and swish of the waters, but since much distorted -in shape owing to disintegration of the cleavage planes. The spot is -unique and wonderful, and the sensations it produces eerie in the -extreme. It is well worthy of a visit. - -[Illustration: On the road 2 miles from Glacier--Ross Peak in distance.] - - - Mill Bridge Series. - -"On making its exit at the eastern end of Gopher Bridge, Cougar creek -pours down a narrow rock-cut for a distance of 350 feet, when it again -disappears in a whirl of flying spray below the surface of the valley. -It reappears, 300 feet farther on at the bottom of a deep gorge, having -dropped 85 feet while underground. The interval between the exit and -entrance has been named Mill bridge by the party previously mentioned, -on account of the roar of the water as it rushes underground through the -choked entrance, resembling the noise made by a big mill in full -operation. - -"The rock-cut above referred to is narrow, about 8 to 10 feet wide, and -of regular appearance. The upper half presents a series of cascades and -falls, and the sides show curious small potholes that are in the process -of erosion from the soft limestone. It has been named 'The Flume,' owing -to its resemblance to a millrace. There are several openings at the -point where the creek disappears, and its last spectacular leap as it -vanishes underground is very striking. 70 feet farther east is a larger -opening, at one time the point where the stream disappeared, but as the -rush of water cut deeper in the rock channel it took advantage of a -handy crack and gradually carved out for itself the opening where the -full volume now descends. - -"About the centre of the flume, on the eastern side, and 30 feet from -it, is the entrance to the Mill Bridge series of the caves, shown on the -map as 'Entrance No. 1.' This entrance is a mere cleft in the rock -strata, and is only wide enough to admit of the passage of a man's body. -The total length of the underground passageway, at one time -accommodating a very considerable volume of water, is 400 feet. The -height varies from a minimum of 10 feet to a maximum of 25 feet, and the -width from 3 to 15 feet. At its eastern end it opens to an -irregularly-shaped chamber of approximately 60 by 70 feet, with a -greatest height of 20 feet. This chamber has been named 'The Auditorium' -by the first exploring party. Cougar creek in its flow beneath Mill -bridge passes through the Auditorium, and as it falls 75 feet in a -distance of 200 feet, from its entrance beneath Mill bridge to the -Auditorium, the chamber is replete with its roar, and the name is -appropriate, though hardly in the conventional sense of the word. Faint -daylight enters through the passageway of the waters and serves to make -the surroundings look dim and mysterious. The frosts of winter also -reach this spot, and in the spring stalactites and stalagmites, formed -of huge icicles, are seen in columnar groups surrounding the dashing -waters and extending some distance into the chamber itself. In this -particular spot disintegration has created much havoc and the walls no -longer show the marks of water erosion, while the floor is heaped with -rock debris fallen from the ceiling. The passageway, however, that -connects it with the surface is still intact as a sample of the power of -water erosion. It is composed of a series of potholes, connected one -with the other by short narrow passages. The bottom of each succeeding -pothole, as you recede from the entrance, is at a lower elevation, -sometimes as much as ten or fifteen feet. To make access possible, -Deutschman has, with the assistance of a bridge carpenter loaned by T. -Kilpatrick, superintendent of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company at -Revelstoke, placed rough ladders from floor to floor. Most of these -potholes hold water in the hollows at the bottom, and, in one case, the -water is so deep--4 or 5 feet--and the potholes so wide that a floating -bridge had to be built. When it is realized that every bit of timber -used in these constructions had to be hewn from the tree and transported -on the shoulder or back, over a road hardly accessible for a mountain -goat, to the place where it was utilized, some idea of the magnitude of -the work can be formed. - -"At one spot the passageway twists in a loop, and here the potholes are -of such a curiously spiral form that it has been named 'The Corkscrew.' -Across this bend, about 12 feet above the main floor, a gallery extends -for 120 feet. It is of a similar pothole formation, but on a smaller -scale than the main passageway. Directly below it, at the lower end, is -a peculiar sharp spike of rock that has evidently been subsequently -carved out by water pouring from this gallery, as is readily shown by -the erosionmarks on the component rocks. In addition to the lines of -erosion on the rock spike and in the gallery pothole, honey-combing is -seen on the right and high up on the left and, still farther on the -left, spatulated markings to the depth of half an inch, or a little -over, which is a very common feature in all three series. - -"Throughout the Mill Bridge series, with the exception of the -Auditorium, the floors and ceilings are of water-worn rock, and -practically no debris has fallen away pointing to the fact that this -channel is of more recent origin, and the rock through which it has worn -of a more compact stratification. - -"At one time it was reported that the roof of this passage was set with -sparkling quartz crystals. It turned out, however, that they were only -drops of water that had collected through leakage or condensation. Some -of the potholes are very curiously marked by thin incrustations of -carbonate of lime spreading over their concave surfaces in florescent -patterns. Overhead in many places are seen projecting spurs that have -withstood the action of the water owing to superior hardness, or that, -through some deflection of the current, have not had the same force -brought to bear upon them. The waters of Cougar creek are derived from -the melting glaciers and snow deposits lining the sides of the peaks -enclosing the valley and, in consequence, carry a considerable quantity -of sediment, composed of very fine rock particles. The quantity of -sediment carried would, of course, be greatest when the stream was at -flood stage. This sediment has doubtless been a factor of much -importance in the erosive power of the waters, and a residue may to-day -be seen as a very thin mud-coloured coating on the walls and floors of -the passageways, where it has been deposited by the subsiding waters. At -a very high stage of water in the creek there was an overflow into -Entrance No. 1 that made the first exploration by W. S. Ayres and party -a wet and somewhat dangerous operation. This overflow, however, was -dammed back by Deutschman, and no further trouble has since been -experienced with it. - - - The Gorge Series. - -"As stated above, the exit of Cougar creek from Mill bridge takes place -at the bottom of a narrow crack, or gorge, running at right angles to -the general direction of the stream. The Gorge is 300 feet in length, -about 50 feet wide, and is spanned by two natural rock bridges. The -sides are composed of badly shattered limestone. On emerging from its -subterranean course beneath Mill bridge, the creek flows through the -Gorge 80 feet below the floor of the valley. At the lower or north end -is the opening that leads to the largest and most interesting of the -series of passageways forming the Nakimu Caves. The Gorge forms a very -striking feature of the external scenery, and several places are -accessible from which views may be had into its depths that are wild and -impressive in the extreme. The opening is a dome-shaped break in the -wall forming the north end. Into this the stream tumbles with wild fury -over a confusion of huge fragments of rock piled up in the passageway. -It creates leaps and falls and a dissemination of spray that makes the -opening to the outer world, as seen from below, appear through a -luminous mist. The aperture is some thirty feet wide and about the same -height. - - [Illustration: View from Road--Mt. Avalanche, Eagle Peak, Mt. Sir - Donald.] - -"Proceeding downwards, at the foot of the falls, the channel resumes its -normal direction of a little south of east. It is necessary here to -cross the stream, which swings northward into lower depths, and from now -on the passageways are quite free from wet, though somewhat damp from -the moistness of the Atmosphere. At the turn of the Creek's direction -you enter a chamber 150 feet long, 25 feet wide and from 10 feet high at -the upper end to 30 feet at the lower end. This chamber is dimly -illuminated by the daylight from outside. It is in a bad state of ruin, -and the floor is heaped with debris thrown from the ceiling and sides. -The roof is composed of one immense slab of rock sloping with the dip of -the strata. The creek has broken through the northeast wall nearly in -the middle of the chamber and disappears into the blackness with a dull -reverberating roar. Fifty feet beyond the creek, the passage turns north -again and it is necessary to descend a rock face of some 12 feet. On it -are natural notches or footholds that would seem as though they had been -cut with a cold-chisel for the special purpose; for persons unaccustomed -to climbing, it is well to use a rope to steady the descent at this -spot. The creek is now heard far down, welling through some rock-cut -with a dull, intermittent pounding, resembling the blows of an immense -sledge-hammer. Forty feet to the right, through a low roofed passage -about 2 feet high, you creep into the 'Dropping Cave.' It is about 30 by -40 feet and 6 to 10 feet high, and so named from the fact that water -drops from the roof in all directions. The floor is composed of broken -rock fragments, and the walls and ceilings of dark blue limestone marked -in places by irregular streaks of white crystalline calcite. At the -eastern end, a very narrow passage between fallen masses of rock, -affording barely room to squeeze through, leads to 'The Witches -Ball-room.' It is 1 to 2 feet wide, 3 to 4 feet high and some 20 feet -in length. - -"The Ball-room is roughly triangular in shape with sides of about 60 -feet, and an estimated height of 50 feet. The largest portion of the -space is occupied by an enormous rock that has fallen from the roof. -This rock has a generally level surface, and is just the spot where a -group of witch-hags might be expected to caper round the ghastly fumes -of some hellish cauldron at a Sabbath meeting; hence the name, in -sympathy with the ill-omened and weird surroundings. On all sides, -except that of the passage, are deep cracks partly choked up by fallen -blocks but still exposing many deep and pitch-black holes leading to the -unknown, where the underground stream is heard roaring dully. By one of -these, at the northeast corner of the chamber, W. S. Ayres and C. H. -Deutschman penetrated to 'The Terror' and 'The Old Mill,' the former 60 -odd feet below the Ball-room. Their explorations in this quarter are -shown on the accompanying map, in red, and a description of them will be -found in Mr. Ayres' supplementary report. Many of the fallen blocks show -crystalline calcite markings similar to those found in the Dropping -Cave. - -"Leaving the Ball-room the passage leads southeasterly for a distance of -125 feet to where there is a parting of the ways. The upper end is a -vaulted chamber, 15 to 20 feet wide and about 20 feet high, a crack on -the left, leading to the depths below, has been partly filled by fallen -rock debris. The broken blocks of which the floor is composed show -crystallized dark blue limestone, veined with white ribbons of calcite. -For the lower portion, the passage lies between separated limestone -strata from 3 to 7 feet apart; the floor, of broken boulders and slabs -is very irregular. Both roof and floor are water-worn and show erosion -markings. They descend until they meet 20 to 30 feet below. The -subterranean stream is heard with a muffled roar on the left. On the -right, three passages, met at intervals, lead to two circular -funnel-like chambers, the more distant of which has been named 'The -Pit.' - -"It is now necessary to return to the surface and seek ingress to the -caves by means of Entrance No. 3, not far from the Gorge on the eastern -side. Entrance No. 3 is close by Lookout point and is the first -accessible opening seen on the journey up the valley. A descent is made -some 10 or 12 feet by a rough ladder, placed by Deutschman, to a small -cavern where there is just room for three persons to crouch. Off this, a -very narrow slit, through which it is barely possible to squeeze, opens -to a narrow chute. Down this chute, by means of a rope placed around the -body, a descent can be made some 20 feet, to the brink of space. From -the final ledge a stone will drop a long way before it strikes. The -total distance from the opening to the brink of the Pit is 60 feet. - -"When surveying the Gorge series, the writer discovered a very peculiar -passage, shown on the map as the 'Marbleway.' It was of a perfectly -eroded structure, composed of a number of small connected potholes in a -dark bluish-grey limestone, shot in every direction by ribbon streaks of -white crystalline calcite. The walls were dripping with moisture and -rendered the limestone dead black and the veins of calcite vivid white, -the whole resembling a rich glistening marble. This passage was followed -to the larger one shown on the map, and that in turn to the circular -chamber named 'The Pit.' It seemed probable that this was the spot where -stones, dropped from the ledge attained by Entrance No. 3, first struck, -so Deutschman was sent to reconnoitre and, not long afterwards, his face -could be seen near the extreme apex of the roof peering down through the -dim halo of his tallow dip. A stone tied to a cord and subsequently -measured showed the drop to the floor of the Pit to be 120 feet. - -"The chamber is about 20 feet in diameter and rises like a gigantic -funnel to something over the height named. The walls are similar to -those of the Marbleway, and some of the effects are very peculiar, -reminding the beholder of forked lightning on a dead black background. -At the bottom of the Pit was seen a very queer slab of rock, shaped -almost perfectly like a monumental tombstone, and having directly in its -centre, as though carved by hand, a cross (+). The descent from the -floor of the Pit to the main passage, although slightly precipitous in -one or two places, is quite easy, the distance being 120 and 130 feet by -the main way and Marbleway, respectively. The walls of the Pit funnel -are water-worn and, at one time, a stream flowed into it by Entrance No. -3, doubtless being the cause of the formation of the chamber. The -stream, which now only carries off the surplus flow from the melting -snows, has found another subterranean opening and joins Cougar creek in -its underground way, somewhere beyond the Ball-room. - -"At the meeting of the ways above referred to, the lower or eastern one -is named 'The Slanting Way' from the fact that the passage is formed by -a separation of the limestone strata, and lies across their dip. The -upper passage has an arched roof and has been named 'The Subway.' Both -are difficult to traverse: the former on account of the broken debris -and sloping rock of which the floors are formed, and of two -uncomfortably narrow places which can be squeezed through with -difficulty; the latter on account of the close proximity of floor and -ceiling and the necessity of bending nearly double for a considerable -part of the distance while traversing it. The lower passage is the -easier of the two. The strata forming the Slanting Way are from five to -ten feet apart. The slabs of both roof and floor are water-worn and bear -spatulated erosion marks, like incipient honey-combing. On the east, or -left side, as you advance, are deep cracks in the strata, at the bottom -of whose depths Cougar creek may be heard echoing loudly through the -vaulted ways. Stones dropped into these seem to rebound for a long time -before resting. About the centre of the Slanting Way the cracks in the -strata expand and a descent may be made to the bed of Cougar creek below -the Turbine. The Turbine is reached by a rather difficult passage -requiring some skill in climbing. The end of the passage is an irregular -opening in the rock. Across a chasm, at whose bottom flows the main -stream, a number of water-spouts rush out with great force and a noise -resembling that produced by water falling into the pit of a turbine. For -an account of this section see Ayres' report. Near the south end of the -Slanting Way is a curious pothole on the left-hand side. Directly beyond -it the floor and walls are covered by an incrustation of carbonate of -lime, varying in thickness from 2 to 6 inches. It is of a light creamy -colour, shading off in some places to a delicate salmon. The formation -has a florescent appearance and resembles, mostly, cauliflower heads set -closely together, a simile derived from W. S. Ayres' report. Owing to -the beautiful floral decorations, this particular spot has been named -'The Art Gallery.' - -"Similar decorations are found throughout the Caves, though not so -extensively as at this and a few other places. At some, there is only a -thin veneer of the carbonate formation and, at others, rock-milk -(_agaric mineral_) is seen on the floors and boulders. The writer did -not observe any stalagmites, nor any stalactites worth speaking of. The -longest did not exceed 15 inches, and resembled, more than anything -else, a thin icicle of that length; its chief interest being that it was -clear and transparent, as though made of ice, and as brittle as glass. - -"The Subway is about 10 to 15 feet wide and from 7 to 2 feet high; the -roof is arched and covered by moisture drops, which are very unpleasant -when they find their way down your back. The floor is of broken rock, -rising to a ridge along the centre of the passageway. - -"From the meeting of the ways, just beyond the Art Gallery, the passage -continues southeasterly, ever increasing in interest. In the next 200 -feet, it varies in width from 15 to 30 feet with a height of 10 to 15 -feet. On the right is a narrow twisting side-opening named 'The Gimlet.' -On the left are two concave sections of old potholes, leading into the -most subterranean depths. They are profusely decorated by florescent -carbonate incrustations, the first one being named 'The Dome' from its -perfect formation. Minor passageways lead from them at a still greater -depth. The most southerly one connects with 'Judgment Hall,' to be -described further on (see map). In this section the underground course -of Cougar creek crosses the corridor, at a considerable depth below, and -the roar of the hidden waters is transferred from the left to the right -hand. - -"A narrow opening, 1 feet wide and 15 feet long, now leads to -'Carbonate Grotto' where are seen very fine calcium decorations. The -Cavern containing the grotto is about 60 by 30 feet, with a height -varying from 10 to 15 feet. For the next 130 feet the passage varies -from 8 feet wide and 5 feet high at the upper end to 20 feet wide and 5 -feet high at the lower end. The sides are hung with rock shelves, and -spotted with lime incrustations; the bottom is much impeded by fallen -blocks. You now find yourself in a cul-de-sac and apparently at the end -of the series. Not so, however, for by squeezing through a narrow -opening on the right, barely noticeable in the darkness, you are enabled -to descend to probably the largest cavern of all, at a depth of 57 feet -below the corridor just left. The chamber, 200 feet long, 20 feet wide -and 40 to 50 feet high has been named 'Judgment Hall,' on account of a -pillar which might stand for the pillar of justice. The floor is -littered by blocks broken from the roof and sides which lie piled in -great heaps at the north end. The roof is roughly arched, and the sides -rise upwards in parallel ledges resembling shelves. Roof, sides, and the -rocks piled on the floor, are covered by the white calcite and, in many -places, present most beautiful patterns and beds of florescent -formations. The north end is connected by a rough passage with one of -the potholes referred to below the meeting of the ways. - -"Near the centre of the western wall, a narrow gap leads to a very -beautiful, though small, chamber named 'The White Grotto' by W. S. -Ayres. The carbonate decorations here are of great beauty and delicacy. -The passage in which the chamber is found is 40 feet long, 15 feet wide -and 10 feet high. The final cave has been named the 'Bridal Chamber' by -W. S. Ayres, owing to the purity of its lime draperies and the general -beauty of its floral decorations. It is small, and beyond this point -exploration has not yet been carried. The passage breaks off in a -precipice falling to a deep chasm, at the bottom of which a subterranean -stream, probably Cougar creek, may be heard. - -"This is the farthest point to which the present survey has been -carried. It is 240 feet from the Wind crack, previously referred to as -being seen on the way up the valley, and is only 54 feet above it; it is -safe to assume that there is a connection between. The wind issuing from -the crack is probably due to a water blast caused by the subterranean -stream falling into the chasm at the end of the exploration. - -"There are two other passages, or rather sets of passages, that have not -yet been mentioned, viz.: 'The Ice Cave,' situated above the deep -entrance from the Gorge. It is reached from the valley floor and is not -of large dimensions, presenting only one chamber of any size, which has -been christened 'The Temple.' The series has been named the Ice Cave -from the fact that the initial passage entrance is blocked by ice all -the year round, and an entry is effected over this blockage. - -"The second set of passages are entered immediately below the Goat -falls, which pour into them until late in October, when they become -ice-bound. Last October, the writer followed two of the passages--one -for about 150 feet, the other for about 50 feet--but could get no -farther without material for bridging. The formation resembles the -passage leading to the Auditorium, but on a smaller scale, viz., a -series of well formed potholes connected one with the other. It is -assumed that the flow from the Goat falls, the big bulk of which passes -through these two channels, empties into the main waterway at the -Turbine, but its course may possibly be more direct. If it does not, -however, it is difficult to know where the water flowing in at the -Turbine comes from. - -"It is still something more than half a mile from the end of the present -exploration to the final point at which the subterranean waters of -Cougar creek are returned to the surface bed. There may consequently be -accessible passageways that are yet undiscovered but, as the surface -grade over this unknown interior is much steeper and the subterranean -creek bed is approaching the surface, it seems probable that, if -existing, they will be found inaccessible. - -"The fact of W. S. Ayres having at two places within the Gorge series -reached the actual bed of the subterranean stream would point to there -being no further passages below that level. It would, therefore, appear -that the largest accessible portion of the series is now on record. Much -of the part shown in red on the accompanying map is difficult of access -and dangerous to unskilled climbers. Indeed, for that matter, there are -plenty of difficult places throughout." - - - Formation of the Caves. - -Mr. Ayres thinks that the Caves have been formed entirely by water -erosion, but Mr. Wheeler differs from him in this respect. Mr. Ayres -says:-- - -"The rocks in which the Cave occurs are of very hard crystalline -limestone, dipping about 30 degrees to the east. In 'Entrance No. 1' -these beds are very thick and are made up of alternate bands of white, -mottled and grey marble. Some of the bands are very highly impregnated -with fine sharp sand, so much so, in fact, that excellent whetstones can -be made from them. - - [Illustration: On the road 3 miles from Glacier. -White Pine may be observed along the route--a very unusual spectacle in - the Selkirk range of mountains.] - -"The Cave has, undoubtedly, been formed entirely by water erosion. The -stream which formed it, Cougar creek, is entirely made up of glacier and -snow water, and above the cave is free from any lime salts. Its -capacity, therefore, to dissolve lime rock when brought in contact with -it, is at its maximum. The fine grains of sharp sand, loosened from the -lime rock and caught in the swift current of the small stream that at -first found its way through a shrinkage crack of some particular bed of -limestone, have undoubtedly given the water an uncommon erosive power, -which, through the countless years of the cave's history, has enabled -that mountain torrent to carve out a mammoth channel in solid marble. - -"The absence of all stalactites and stalagmites, such as are usually -found in caves, and the presence of curiously carved marble walls, -wonderfully carved in fantastic shapes and sombre colouring, suddenly -make one realize that he is far removed from things familiar." - -The Indian word "Nakimu," by which the Caves are generally known, has -the Anglo-Saxon equivalent of "grumbling." - -This might imply that in some distant past a seismic disturbance in the -interior of the mountain resulted in its Indian appellation, or, on the -other hand, it may be due solely to the rumbling sound of the -subterranean torrent. - -Mr. Wheeler, in differing from Mr. Ayres as to the factors mainly -instrumental in forming the underground channels and caverns as seen -to-day, states his conviction that an agency, more potent and -far-reaching than mere erosion and disintegration by the ordinary -processes of nature, has been at work. - -In his arguments in this connection he says:-- - -"From the point where Cougar creek first drops beneath Gopher bridge, -the old surface channel may be traced, though dammed and nearly -obliterated in places. If the natural dam shown at the first point of -entrance were removed, the stream would again revert to the old -entrance. Southwest of the old entrance is a still older natural dam, -whose removal would allow the stream to proceed to the Mill bridge; -thence, following the ravine between the two camp grounds, it would pass -directly across the Gorge, supposing that great rift not yet to exist, -and flowing past 'Entrance No. 3,' would descend in a cataract beyond -Lookout point. - -"There is no doubt that these particular beds of limestone are badly -shattered in the mass. It is shown by the fact that the surrounding -streams, the Gopher falls, the periodical stream flowing to Entrance No. -3, and that of the Goat falls all join the main stream by underground -ways. There are several other instances where the present bed of the -creek could hardly be due to shrinkage and erosion, as in the case of -the deep rift of the Gorge lying directly across the dip of the strata -(the strata dip a little south of east, at an angle between 35 degrees -and 40 degrees). The same thing is noticed in the subterranean bed of -the creek from the east end of the Witches Ball-room to where it crosses -the main corridor near the Art Gallery. - -"From October 16 to 21, last, during the survey made of the Gorge series -by the writer, though it was well below zero at the camp in the woods, -there was no frost found in the cave interiors at a short distance from -the entrance. Thus, two of the highest factors of disintegration, sun -and frost, are lacking, when accounting for the wholesale cleavage that -has taken place within the old waterways. The enormous size of the -blocks, moreover, and the indication that the largest of them had been -displaced a very long time ago would point to the agency of a severe -shock or series of shocks such as would be caused by an earthquake or -some similar seismic disturbance. That such disturbances have taken -place and acted in this particular locality is borne out by other -curious phenomena for which it is difficult to find a different -explanation. - -"In 1904, Prof. W. H. Sherzer, on behalf of the Smithsonian Institution -of Washington, D.C., visited the Canadian Rockies for the purpose of -studying their glaciers. Among a series of five, he made a special study -of the Illecillewaet glacier situated about seven and a half miles from -the Caves. At some distance from the present ice-tongue of the glacier, -were found two moraines about a third of a mile apart, composed of -enormous blocks of quartzite, weighing in some single instances as much -as 1,250 tons, and retaining the original shape in which they were cast -from the peaks above to the snow-field and glacier transporting them to -the place where they are now found. Prof. Sherzer has named these 'Block -Moraines' in distinction to ordinary moraines composed of ice-worn, -rounded boulders imbedded in a species of cement, commonly known as -boulder clay. - -"The question is: How and at what time were these block moraines formed. -At the present day the glaciers are wholly incapable of transporting -such a load, and no such quantities of material are to be found upon the -snow-field, below the peaks, as would be necessary to form a similar -moraine, even during a protracted period of rest on the part of the -glacier. - -"In the endeavor to ascertain a date for their formation, Prof. Sherzer -cut down trees growing between the two moraines and counted the rings of -growth. The oldest was found to have an age of 550 years. Trees, also, -growing on the inner or younger moraine were measured and the age of the -oldest ascertained to be 447 years. Allowing for the time required for -the collection of sufficient soil to permit of growth taking place, the -moraine, therefore, would be between 500 and 600 years old. - -"Professor Sherzer points to the probability of seismic disturbances -being the cause of these block moraines and that the material of which -they are formed had been shaken from the peaks to the snow-field below. -Making due allowance for the period of transportation of the material -forming the inner moraine, the earthquake would thus have occurred -during the thirteenth century. (See 'Glacial Studies in the Canadian -Rockies and Selkirks, Smithsonian Expedition of 1904,' by William -Hittell Sherzer, Ph. D.) - -"That disturbances of this nature have taken place in Canada at a much -more recent date is pointed out in the above report by the following -quotation from the '_Jesuite Relations_,' Thwaites translations, vol. -xlvii, pp. 37-57; 183-223: 'On the fifth of February, 1663, towards -half-past five in the evening, a loud roaring was heard at the same time -throughout the length and breadth of Canadas. . . . On level ground, -hills have arisen; mountains, on the other hand, have been depressed and -flattened. Chasms of wonderful depth, exhaling a foul stench, have been -hollowed out in many places, plains lie open, far and wide, where there -were formerly very dense and lofty forests. Cliffs, although not quite -levelled with the soil, have been shattered and overturned.' - -[Illustration: Government building at the Caves for the use of visitors.] - -"If the origin of block moraines can be accounted for by seismic -disturbances, it is not improbable to assume that at some remote date a -similar occurrence has shattered this bed of crystalline limestone and -precipitated Cougar creek from its surface course into subterranean -channels, which, through the course of ages, it has enlarged to their -present size, and that subsequent shocks have been mainly responsible -for the large quantities of fallen debris that litter the interiors. -Under such a condition of affairs, the crack of the Gorge, and similar -chasms found below the surface, would be accounted for." - -The gist of Mr. Ayres' arguments concerning the probable age of the cave -is contained in the following paragraphs:-- - -"The marble rocks in which the cave is formed belong most probably to -the Devonian age. No fossils were found, however, to positively verify -this conclusion. The limestone rocks have not been completely changed -into marble at all points as was observed under 'Gopher Bridge' and in -'The Terror.' Notwithstanding the fact that the rocks belong to a -comparatively old series, yet the beginning of the cave undoubtedly -dates from a very recent geological time. - -"Assuming the rate of erosion to be one thirty-second of an inch in a -year, then to cut down one hundred feet of rock, which is about the -average amount eroded in the main cave, would require 38,400 years. Any -actual rate greater or less than this assumption would increase or -diminish the age of the cave. In several places along Cougar creek in -the bottom of the cave an excellent opportunity is afforded to determine -actually the present annual rate of erosion. A micrometer measuring -apparatus should be used and the area of cross-section of the rock -eroded per year thus accurately computed. Also the ratio between the -area of the cross-section of the average stream and the area of the rock -eroded should be determined. And finally, the quantity of water passing -the given section in one year, and its velocity, should be accurately -measured. - -"In contemplating the foregoing suggestion as to the probable age of the -cave, it should be borne in mind that where gravel and sand lodge in the -bed of the stream the rate of erosion is many times less than where the -bed is continually swept clean by a more rapid current." - - - EXCURSION SUGGESTIONS. - -Nakimu Caves may be reached by travelling to Glacier, in Glacier Park, -B.C., on the Canadian Pacific railway, and from that point either by -walking or riding on a pony a distance of about seven miles along -excellent road and trail. - - [Illustration: A pic-nic party at the Caves.] - -The distance to the Nakimu Caves from Glacier House by way of the wagon -road--Illecillewaet river and Cougar creek, is 7 miles; by horse trail, -via Rogers pass over the summit of Baloo pass to the Caves, the distance -is 3 miles farther. Baloo pass is 6681 feet above sea-level, and from -the summit is an extensive view, including not only the Hermit range and -McDonald, but the Dawson peaks, Bishop range and the mountains that girt -Cougar valley. - -At the Caves is a government building especially adapted for campers, -with cook stoves and other conveniences. Parties desiring to camp can -make arrangements by writing to C. H. Deutschman, The Caves, Glacier, -B.C. - -This camp is the starting point for many easy and hard rock climbs. - -From Cheops, whose altitude is 8,506 feet above sea-level, but only -3,300 feet above the cabin, the view is unsurpassed, owing to its -central location. The climb takes 3 hours and, from the top, over 200 -glaciers can be counted, and on a clear day the Rocky mountains, 150 -miles away, can be seen guarding the horizon with rugged peaks. - -Cougar mountain (altitude, 7,882 feet, 2,500 feet above the camp) is an -easier and shorter climb of 2 hours. - -Ursus Major, altitude, 8,930 feet; Ursus Minor, altitude, 9,026 feet; -Catamount, altitude, 8,956 feet; Bagheera, altitude, 9,096 feet and many -others, are within the limit of a day's climb. - -The ice caves under the Glacier at the head of Cougar valley are also -worth a visit. For botanists, this is a paradise, the alpine and -sub-alpine flowers being gorgeous and abundant, and many rare species -are found here. Over 150 species can be gathered in a short time in July -or August. - -A two days' camping trip may be undertaken as follows:-- - -From Glacier House via Baloo pass to the Nakimu Caves, exploring Bear -creek and Cougar valleys, spending the night at Camp, visiting "The -Caves" and arriving at Glacier in time for dinner the following evening. - - [Illustration: DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR - TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP - SHOWING THE POSITION OF - THE NAKIMU CAVES - in Cougar Creek Valley, Selkirk Mts. - British Columbia] - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Some palpable typographical errors were corrected. - ---Copyright and publisher's information was included from the printed - copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Nakimu Caves, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NAKIMU CAVES *** - -***** This file should be named 51042-8.txt or 51042-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/0/4/51042/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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text-indent:-3em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; text-align:left; } -p.t15, div.t15,.t15 { margin-left:19em; text-indent:-3em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; text-align:left; } -p.lr, div.lr, span.lr { display:block; margin-left:0em; margin-right:1em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; text-align:right; } -dt.lr { width:100%; margin-left:0em; margin-right:0em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:1em; text-align:right; } -dl dt.lr a { text-align:left; clear:left; float:left; } - -.fnblock { margin-top:2em; } -.fndef { text-align:justify; margin-top:1.5em; margin-left:1.5em; text-indent:-1.5em; } -.fndef p.fncont, .fndef dl { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0em; } -dl.catalog dd { font-style:italic; } -dl.catalog dt { margin-top:1em; } -.author { text-align:right; margin-top:0em; margin-bottom:0em; display:block; } - -dl.biblio dt { margin-top:.6em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt div { display:block; float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -dl.undent dt { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0em; } -dl.undent dd { margin-left:4em; text-indent:-3em; } -dl.undent dd.t { margin-left:5em; text-indent:-3em; } -dl.undent dd.t2 { margin-left:6em; text-indent:-3em; } -dl.undent dt.r { text-align:right; }</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Nakimu Caves, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Nakimu Caves - Glacier Dominion Park, B. C. - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: January 26, 2016 [EBook #51042] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NAKIMU CAVES *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="The Nakimu Caves, Glacier Dominion Park, B. C." width="500" height="788" /> -</div> -<h1>The Nakimu Caves -<br /><span class="smaller">Glacier Dominion Park, B. C.</span></h1> -<div class="img" id="pic1"> -<img src="images/pic000.jpg" alt="" width="538" height="800" /> -<p class="captionc">On the road to the Caves—Ross Peak in centre.</p> -</div> -<p class="center small">DOMINION PARKS BRANCH -<br />Department of the Interior -<br />OTTAWA -<br />1914</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<h1 title="">THE NAKIMU CAVES -<br /><span class="smaller">GLACIER DOMINION PARK, B.C.</span></h1> -<p>Near the summit of the Selkirk range of mountains in -British Columbia is one of the most curious series of subterranean -caves in the world. Being of recent discovery and, up to the -present, almost inaccessible except to the most agile and daring -they remain practically unknown to the world at large, but to -those bold spirits who have dared their black depths they have -offered an experience, weird, thrilling and wonderful. Less -than a thousand visitors at present make the journey to the -Caves each year.</p> -<p>To the graphic description of Arthur O. Wheeler, president -and founder of the Canadian Alpine Club, together with the -report of W. S. Ayres, the mining engineer who was commissioned -by this department to report on the Caves, the substance of -this pamphlet is indebted.</p> -<p>The Dominion Government is at present having work done -which will render accessible to the public this unusual and somewhat -gruesome curiosity. A good road is already built between -the little alplike town of Glacier to within 6,000 feet of the Caves -and a trail connects this point with the entrance. The distance -is about seven miles by saddle pony from the beautiful Canadian -Pacific Railway hotel at Glacier to the end of the road, and the -whole journey can be finished on foot in five hours. The ride -is through scenes almost incomparable, perhaps even in the -Rocky or Selkirk mountains.</p> -<p>The Yoho valley, in which flows the Cougar Creek, in the -bed of which are the Caves, possesses magnificent vistas of -varied mountain scenery. To quote Wheeler:—“It is difficult -to express the wonder of the colour contrasts that meet the eye -in the ever changing panorama of snow-clad peak, rock precipice -dazzling névé, shining glacier ice and bronze-green forest of -pines, midst which nestle magic lakes of changing shades of -blue and green.”</p> -<p>Mr. Wheeler remarks that the Cougar valley, in the bed of -which are the Caves, is of special interest for two reasons other -than the Caves:—</p> -<p>1. “It is of that special type known as ‘a hanging valley,’ -or one that has been carved out in a U-shaped cross-section by -the action of glacial erosion, and not in the form of a V, as would -have occurred through the action of water erosion alone. It -is, moreover, a very pronounced form of its type. The numerous -small glaciers that still line the sides and head of the valley -give it exceeding great beauty and interest in summer time.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div> -<p>2. “I know of no other spot in the Selkirks where alpine -flora is more abundant and varied, and this fact alone is an attraction -not to be despised.”</p> -<h3 id="c1">Description of the Valley of the Caves, -<br />by A. O. Wheeler.</h3> -<p>“The valley of Cougar creek is divided into two parts of -distinctly different characteristics. The upper valley, a great -spoon-shaped basin extending from Lookout point to Cougar -pass, is a most pronounced form of the type known as ‘hanging -valley,’ or one that has been carved out in a U-shaped cross -section by the eroding power of a glacier at one time filling up -its bottom. This glacier has now shrunk to very small proportions -at the extreme head of the valley. The floor is on a comparatively -low grade and, at one point, is covered for about -half a mile by a small lake-bed in which some water lies during -the summer. The entire length of the upper valley may be put -at 2½ miles. It is inclosed by the rocky steeps of Mount -Bagheera, Catamount peak and Mount Ursus Major, on the -north, and of Cougar mountain on the south. On the sides -of these massives are small glaciers, busy at work tearing down -the entire structures. At the head of the valley, Cougar pass -leads across the shrunken glacier to a steep ravine descending -to the railway at some distance below Ross Peak station.</p> -<div class="img" id="pic2"> -<img src="images/pic001.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="556" /> -<p class="captionc">On the road to the Caves—Showing Cougar Valley; Mts. Ursus Major and Bagheera in distance.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<div class="img" id="pic3"> -<img src="images/pic002.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="764" /> -<p class="captionc">Douglas Falls—Near the Caves.</p> -</div> -<p>“It would be difficult to find a more beautiful example of -the alpine valley. In every direction silver water-falls leap -down the sides from the glaciers and melting snows of the surrounding -peaks. These collect at the bottom of the valley in -one central stream which bounds in foaming cascades to the -little lake-bed mentioned above. It leaves this, and, continually -augmented by falls from above, rushes through luxurious -meadow-lands in a second series of cascades that have worn -down to bedrock, showing where a thin veneer of soil is overlaying -it. The alpine meadows and park-lands, as well as the -open mountain slopes of the valley, are throughout the spring -and summer decked with a gorgeous array of flowers of varied -hues which, in places, are so profuse and brilliant that it seems -as though nature had spread a carpet of rainbow colours for the -delight and wonder of her visitors. In early spring, the giant -Adder’s Tongue (<i>Erythronium gigantium</i>) covers whole acres -with a brilliant yellow. These flowers are the first, and may -be seen pushing their heads up through the snow. Like all -spring flowers in this region, they follow the melting snows, -and may be found higher up in the valley as late as August. -<span class="pb" id="Page_6">6</span> -Almost coincident with them is the Globe flower (<i>Trollius laxus</i>), -a plant of much beauty and great wealth of blossom. Next -come the scarlet and crimson Painter’s Brush (<i>Castilleia</i>), -showing everywhere in the open and on the lower slopes with -a blaze of glory. Later still, the blue Larkspur (<i>Delphinium -bicolor</i>) and purple and pink Asters replace the earlier series, -the crimson and yellow Monkey-flower (<i>Mimulus</i>) are found in -the beds of the streams and where moisture is prevalent; high -up in the valley and on the alp-lands below the rocks are seen -the False Heaths (<i>Bryanthus</i> and <i>Cassiope</i>) and, highest of all, -the pink-flowering moss (<i>Silene acaulis</i>), found in magnificently -flowered bunches directly below the ice. There are very many -other species more rare, and just as beautiful in blossom, but of -not so frequent or noticeable occurrence.</p> -<p>“The timber consists, in this upper valley, chiefly of spruce -and balsam, trees which, at this elevation, in the Selkirks attain -a grace and beauty that is not noticed in the more crowded -areas of lower altitudes. Here they rise symmetrically to a -great height, and their sweeping lower boughs form shaded -canopies that are most inviting during the sultry summer -weather.</p> -<p>“As the head of the valley is approached, a short climb -will convey the explorer to the ice of several small glaciers where -he may study with ease their formation and action, look into -miniature crevasses and see how moraines of rock detritus are -formed by the downward flow of the ice.</p> -<p>“At the site of the Caves, Cougar Creek valley turns from -a northeasterly to a southeasterly direction, and falls sharply -2,000 feet from Lookout point to the tank, as compared with -1,200 feet for the upper valley in the same distance, about two -miles. The lower valley is V-shaped and has, for the most part, -been carved out by the action of water erosion. The sides -except immediately adjacent to the railway are timbered only -in patches and are for the most part covered by closely growing -alders, bracken and rank grass which have replaced the timber -where the slopes have been swept clear by avalanches from the -heights above. Through the latter half of this section of the -valley the stream flows in a narrow canyon and the fall is steep. -As soon as the corner is turned and the slopes of the Illecillewaet -valley reached, a magnificent forest growth of Douglas fir -(<i>Pseudotsuga Douglasii</i>), hemlock (<i>Tsuga Mertensiana</i>), cedar -(<i>Thuga gigantea</i>), and a few scattered trees of white pine (<i>Pinus -strobus</i>) is passed through.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div> -<div class="img" id="pic4"> -<img src="images/pic003.jpg" alt="" width="473" height="800" /> -<p class="captionc">Goat Falls—Near the entrance to the Caves.</p> -</div> -<p>“From a natural history point of view, the upper valley -is exceptional, due largely to the absence of visitors in the past. -The Rocky Mountain goat (<i>Haplocerus montanus</i>) may be seen -frequently, and his tracks are everywhere along the heights. -During one of our visits a grizzly bear (<i>Ursus ferox</i>) was killed -by Deutschman. The black bear (<i>Ursus americana</i>) is plentiful -at the head of bear creek across Baloo pass, and it may be safely -assumed that he does not fail to visit Cougar valley. Of the -smaller mammals, the hoary marmot or whistler (<i>Arctomys -Columbianus</i>) is plentiful in both the upper and lower valley, -and is here found in large numbers, larger in size and giving -forth a louder and more shrill whistle than in the main range -of the Rockies. Its startling note is very human and resembles -much the noise that delights the heart of the small boy, produced -<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span> -by placing the fingers between the lips. Say’s squirrel (<i>Spermophilus -lateralis</i>) and Parry’s marmot (<i>Spermophilus Parryi</i>) -are also found, the latter in great numbers. The Little Chief -hare (<i>Logomys princeps</i>) is frequently seen disporting itself -among the rocks, and its comical antics and quaint squeak, -resembling that of a toy rabbit, are very amusing.</p> -<p>“The birds are few, and in the upper valley are chiefly -confined to the Ptarmigan (<i>Lagopus leucurus</i>), of which a flock -may nearly always be seen, the water ousel or dipper (<i>Cinclus -Mexicanus</i>), a funny little dark grey chap who flits from stone -to stone along the cascades and falls of the valley, continually -bobbing and dipping as though it were the object and aim of -his existence. This bird has a very sweet note. Of other birds -the black-headed jay (<i>Cyanocitta stelleri annectens</i>) and the -Rocky Mountain Whisky Jack (<i>Perisoreus Canadensis capitalis</i>) -are the most apparent.</p> -<p>“Taken as a whole, this wonderful valley is worthy of a -visit quite independently of the attractions offered by the -Caves, and it would be difficult to find a more representative or -better type of valley to illustrate the various phases of nature -in the Selkirks—scenery, geology, natural history and botany.”</p> -<p>It was in the year 1904 that Charles Henry Deutschman -of Revelstoke, a British subject, while prospecting and hunting -big game, discovered the Caves in series.</p> -<p>The next person to enter the Caves after Deutschman was -A. Johnston, editor of the Revelstoke <i>Mail-Herald</i>. Next, in -May, 1905, a party of twelve persons, including W. S. Ayres, -the mining engineer, Howard Douglas, superintendent of Rocky -Mountains Park, and R. B. Bennett, the Associated Press -correspondent at Vancouver and now member of the Dominion -House representing Calgary, visited the Caves. Most of this -party, however, returned to Glacier on the following day and -left Messrs. Ayres, Deutschman, Johnston, Benson and Field -to make further explorations.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<div class="img" id="pic5"> -<img src="images/pic004.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="343" /> -<p class="captionc">On the road to the Caves—Mt. Avalanche, Eagle Peak, Mt. Sir Donald.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div> -<h3 id="c2">Mr. Ayres’ Description of this Exploration.</h3> -<p>“On the morning of May 30, the entire party entered the -cave by the opening which I have designated on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as -‘Entrance No. 1.’ Pools of water more or less filled with ice -were encountered, which greatly impeded our progress, and -finally a very deep one, at a distance of 237 feet from the surface, -barred further progress until a raft could be prepared. Retracing -our steps to the surface we sought an entrance in ‘The -Canyon’ by means of a rope. This passage was about 70 feet -below the natural surface and about 100 feet above the bottom -of ‘The Canyon,’ was very small and blocked with ice. I have -designated this opening as ‘Entrance No. 2,’ on the <a href="#map1">map</a>.</p> -<p>“Another opening was found which is recorded as ‘Entrance -No. 3.’ Here, by crawling through a very narrow passage on -hands and knees and then descending a steep narrow water -groove for about 50 feet the brink of a very large cavern was -reached that was estimated to be 256 feet deep, but its length -and breadth were, owing to their great extent and to the insufficiency -of lights at hand, inaccessible. It was observable, -however, that several openings led off from this great cavern. -The plunge and roar of a great waterfall somewhere down in -the depths of this cavern reverberates in every inch of space, -and produces in the listener sensations so weird that even those -that have elsewhere met its counterpart are at first startled.</p> -<p>“No further attempt was made at this time to explore the -cave through this entrance for the reason that the three hundred -feet of rope sent by Mr. Ford, resident engineer of the C.P.R., -for our use, had not yet been brought up to the cave from the -water tank. On the following day another obstacle presented -itself. The rapidly melting snow formed a sudden rush of water -which poured down the mountain side and into this opening, -and made it not only inaccessible for the time being, but proved -it to be positively dangerous to enter for any extended explorations -until the snow has practically disappeared.</p> -<p>“On the afternoon of May 31, and the forenoon of June 1, -a raft and additional ladders were constructed to cross over the -large pool that impeded our progress on May 30 in ‘Entrance -No. 1.’ While we were eating our noon meal on the 31st, -Cougar creek overflowed into this entrance. We made the -attempt to descend but were drenched with water, and our lights -were put out. We constructed a dam to prevent this, as far as -possible, and at 6 a.m. on June 2 we again descended into the cave -by this entrance, and found at a distance of 331 feet from the -surface a large square chamber, 50 feet wide by 60 feet, that -was accessible. A large portion of its length was inaccessible -owing to Cougar creek, which flows across it, and to accumulated -ice. We named this chamber ‘The Auditorium.’</p> -<p>“At a point in the main entrance just as we emerge from -‘The Auditorium,’ a branch passage was found which again joins -the main entrance about 100 feet from the surface. This -<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span> -branch passage is marked on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as A-B. Another branch -passage was found to connect this entrance with the surface -and it is designated on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as B-C. A diligent search in -this part of the cave disclosed no other accessible openings.</p> -<p>“A descent by ropes to the bottom of the canyon at ‘Entrance -No. 2’ was considered but it was deemed entirely unsafe, -owing to the very large accumulated mass of snow which might -slide into it at any moment, and without warning. Besides -this, no entry can be made until Cougar creek has subsided to -a mere brook.</p> -<p>“The falls, designated on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as ‘Lower Goat Falls,’ -were visited with the hope that an entrance might be effected -to the very large cavern by the passage through which the water -from the fall enters; but it was practically filled with water and -ice. The falls consist of two vertical drops, the upper one is -about 30 feet and the lower one 50 feet. A large amount of -water is delivered into the cave from these falls, the place of -entry being immediately at its foot. It is called ‘Entrance -No. 4.’</p> -<p>“No other openings were discovered by which access might -be had to the large cavern, and we are barred from entering it -by those openings already described, and for the reasons given, -until such time as the spring floods may have fully subsided.”</p> -<p>Mr. A. O. Wheeler, D.L.S., accompanied by Deutschman, -was the next explorer, and the following is Mr. Wheeler’s description -of their experiences in the new caves which were discovered -during this visit:—</p> -<h3 id="c3">Mr. Wheeler’s Exploration and Description of the Caves.</h3> -<p>“Up to this time, only the Gopher Bridge series and the -Mill Bridge series (see <a href="#map1">map</a>) had been explored. It was not -until a day or two before the close of the survey, August 4, that -an attempt was made to penetrate the huge opening seen at the -north end of the bottom of the gorge. On the date named, the -writer descended by means of a knotted rope, and was followed -by Deutschman. The stream was then at high water, and -pouring into the opening with a tremendous rush and swirl of -waters. Although the creek was crossed by wading waist deep -in the icy torrent, it was found impossible to penetrate more -than a couple of hundred feet into the depth. Later in the month -Deutschman, alone and unaided, penetrated this opening and -worked his way across the stream, discovering what is now -referred to as the Gorge series, or the series of passageways -reached by the opening from the Gorge. And here the writer -begs to say a word or two concerning this remarkable man. The -work of exploration he has done without assistance, shows a -character utterly devoid of fear. The descent into depths of -blackest darkness, lighted only by the dim rays of a tallow dip, -without a rope or other aid except in a case of direst necessity, -requires more than courage; it requires strength of purpose and -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -power of will far beyond the ordinary degree. For, added to -the thick darkness, there was always the fierce vibrating roar -of subterranean torrents, a sound most nerve shaking in a position -sufficiently uncanny and demoralizing without it. Huge cracks -had to be crossed, and precipitous descents made in pitch darkness, -where, it is safe to say, a misstep would have instant death, -either suddenly or through disablement. Now that ladders are -placed and ropes set, and the sure path pointed out by this -intrepid guide, it is difficult to realize how in the first place -the passage could possibly have been made without.</p> -<div class="img" id="pic6"> -<img src="images/pic005.jpg" alt="" width="525" height="800" /> -<p class="captionc">Typical Alpland—On Mt. Abbott about 1 mile south of Glacier.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<p>“The first visitor after Deutschman to the Gorge series was -a Mr. Lang, of Golden, B.C., who very nearly met with a serious -accident when climbing up the rope from the bottom of the gorge -to the floor of the valley, 80 feet above. He had nearly reached -the top when his strength gave out, and he slid back down the -rope, arriving at the bottom in a much bruised condition, but -fortunately with no bones broken.”</p> -<p>Mr. Wheeler furnishes a splendid detail description of the -various series of caves, and it is thought well to reproduce this -description <i>in extenso</i>:—</p> -<h3 id="c4"><span class="sc">Gopher Bridge Series.</span></h3> -<p>“On leaving the lake-bed above mentioned, Cougar creek -flows in a series of cascades for a little more than half a mile -through open alpine meadowland, broken here and there by -knolls crowned with scrubby spruce. Suddenly, without warning, -it drops into a cavity and, 450 feet farther down, quietly issues -from its underground way. During this disappearance the -stream has only dropped 30 feet. The intervening space -between the entry into and exit from the ground has been named -‘Gopher Bridge’ by the first party visiting the Caves, owing to -the large numbers of Parry’s marmot, which much resembles a -gopher, to be seen in the immediate vicinity, and the underlying -passages are here referred to as the Gopher Bridge series. Directly -opposite the disappearance of the creek, two striking cascades -tumble down the mountain side and uniting, flow for a short -space parallel to Cougar creek; then, vanishing into a hole in -the ground, they join the main stream by a subterranean passage. -They are known as ‘Gopher Falls,’ and the place where they -disappear as the ‘Gopher Hole’ (see <a href="#map1">map</a> of Caves).</p> -<p>“The Gopher Bridge series of passageways was at first -entered by the opening shown on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as ‘Old Entrance.’ -It was a very disagreeable operation, entailing much wriggling -and squeezing through narrow cracks over dirty rocks. Eventually, -a point of vantage was reached directly over the subterranean -torrent. At the time of the first exploration the -writer took acetylene bicycle lamps, whose bull’s-eyes enabled -the pitch darkness to be pierced to some extent. Magnesium -wire also was lighted, and, by its aid, for a brief minute, the interior -was bathed in dazzling brightness. Standing on a narrow -ledge that overhangs a black abyss, the eye is first drawn by a -subterranean waterfall heard roaring immediately on the left. -It appears to pour from a dark opening above it. Below, -between black walls of rock, may be seen the foam-flecked -torrent hurtling down the incline until lost in sense shadows. -Overhead, fantastic spurs and shapes reach out into the blackness -and the entire surroundings are so weird and uncanny that it is -easy to imagine Dante seated upon one of these spurs deriving -impressions for his inferno. As the brilliant light goes out the -thick darkness makes itself felt, and instinctively you feel to -<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span> -see if Charon is not standing beside you. This subterranean -stream, with its unearthly surroundings, is somewhat suggestive -of the Styx, and incidentally supplied the name ‘Avernus’ for -the cavern of the waterfall.</p> -<p>“At one time the stream entered by this opening, but a -natural dam has gradually been formed causing it to find a new -opening at the spot where it is now shown disappearing on the -<a href="#map1">map</a>. About midway between the entrance of the creek and -the old entrance, Deutschman has excavated a small natural -opening to a size sufficiently large enough to admit an average -person with comfort. A small passage joins with the underground -way of the creek, and by following along its edge you -eventually come to the point of vantage previously described. -<i>En route</i>, several small chambers are passed, originally carved -out of the rock in the form of potholes by the swirl and swish -of the waters, but since much distorted in shape owing to -disintegration of the cleavage planes. The spot is unique and -wonderful, and the sensations it produces eerie in the extreme. -It is well worthy of a visit.</p> -<div class="img" id="pic7"> -<img src="images/pic006.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="725" /> -<p class="captionc">On the road 2 miles from Glacier—Ross Peak in distance.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<h3 id="c5"><span class="sc">Mill Bridge Series.</span></h3> -<p>“On making its exit at the eastern end of Gopher Bridge, -Cougar creek pours down a narrow rock-cut for a distance of -350 feet, when it again disappears in a whirl of flying spray below -the surface of the valley. It reappears, 300 feet farther on at -the bottom of a deep gorge, having dropped 85 feet while underground. -The interval between the exit and entrance has been -named Mill bridge by the party previously mentioned, on account -of the roar of the water as it rushes underground through the -choked entrance, resembling the noise made by a big mill in -full operation.</p> -<p>“The rock-cut above referred to is narrow, about 8 to 10 -feet wide, and of regular appearance. The upper half presents -a series of cascades and falls, and the sides show curious small -potholes that are in the process of erosion from the soft limestone. -It has been named ‘The Flume,’ owing to its resemblance to a -millrace. There are several openings at the point where the -creek disappears, and its last spectacular leap as it vanishes -underground is very striking. 70 feet farther east is a -larger opening, at one time the point where the stream disappeared, -but as the rush of water cut deeper in the rock channel -it took advantage of a handy crack and gradually carved out -for itself the opening where the full volume now descends.</p> -<p>“About the centre of the flume, on the eastern side, and 30 -feet from it, is the entrance to the Mill Bridge series of the caves, -shown on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as ‘Entrance No. 1.’ This entrance is a -mere cleft in the rock strata, and is only wide enough to admit -of the passage of a man’s body. The total length of the underground -passageway, at one time accommodating a very considerable -volume of water, is 400 feet. The height varies from a -minimum of 10 feet to a maximum of 25 feet, and the width -from 3 to 15 feet. At its eastern end it opens to an irregularly-shaped -chamber of approximately 60 by 70 feet, with a greatest -height of 20 feet. This chamber has been named ‘The Auditorium’ -by the first exploring party. Cougar creek in its flow -beneath Mill bridge passes through the Auditorium, and as it -falls 75 feet in a distance of 200 feet, from its entrance beneath -Mill bridge to the Auditorium, the chamber is replete with its -roar, and the name is appropriate, though hardly in the conventional -sense of the word. Faint daylight enters through the -passageway of the waters and serves to make the surroundings -look dim and mysterious. The frosts of winter also reach this -spot, and in the spring stalactites and stalagmites, formed of -huge icicles, are seen in columnar groups surrounding the dashing -waters and extending some distance into the chamber itself. -In this particular spot disintegration has created much havoc -and the walls no longer show the marks of water erosion, while -the floor is heaped with rock debris fallen from the ceiling. The -passageway, however, that connects it with the surface is still -intact as a sample of the power of water erosion. It is composed -<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span> -of a series of potholes, connected one with the other by short -narrow passages. The bottom of each succeeding pothole, as -you recede from the entrance, is at a lower elevation, sometimes -as much as ten or fifteen feet. To make access possible, Deutschman -has, with the assistance of a bridge carpenter loaned by -T. Kilpatrick, superintendent of the Canadian Pacific Railway -Company at Revelstoke, placed rough ladders from floor to -floor. Most of these potholes hold water in the hollows at -the bottom, and, in one case, the water is so deep—4 or 5 -feet—and the potholes so wide that a floating bridge had to -be built. When it is realized that every bit of timber used in -these constructions had to be hewn from the tree and transported -on the shoulder or back, over a road hardly accessible for a -mountain goat, to the place where it was utilized, some idea -of the magnitude of the work can be formed.</p> -<p>“At one spot the passageway twists in a loop, and here the -potholes are of such a curiously spiral form that it has been named -‘The Corkscrew.’ Across this bend, about 12 feet above the -main floor, a gallery extends for 120 feet. It is of a similar -pothole formation, but on a smaller scale than the main passageway. -Directly below it, at the lower end, is a peculiar sharp -spike of rock that has evidently been subsequently carved out -by water pouring from this gallery, as is readily shown by the -erosionmarks on the component rocks. In addition to the lines -of erosion on the rock spike and in the gallery pothole, honey-combing -is seen on the right and high up on the left and, still -farther on the left, spatulated markings to the depth of half an -inch, or a little over, which is a very common feature in all three -series.</p> -<p>“Throughout the Mill Bridge series, with the exception -of the Auditorium, the floors and ceilings are of water-worn -rock, and practically no debris has fallen away pointing to the -fact that this channel is of more recent origin, and the rock -through which it has worn of a more compact stratification.</p> -<p>“At one time it was reported that the roof of this passage -was set with sparkling quartz crystals. It turned out, however, -that they were only drops of water that had collected through -leakage or condensation. Some of the potholes are very curiously -marked by thin incrustations of carbonate of lime spreading -over their concave surfaces in florescent patterns. Overhead -in many places are seen projecting spurs that have withstood -the action of the water owing to superior hardness, or that, -through some deflection of the current, have not had the same -force brought to bear upon them. The waters of Cougar creek -are derived from the melting glaciers and snow deposits lining -the sides of the peaks enclosing the valley and, in consequence, -carry a considerable quantity of sediment, composed of very -fine rock particles. The quantity of sediment carried would, -of course, be greatest when the stream was at flood stage. This -sediment has doubtless been a factor of much importance in the -erosive power of the waters, and a residue may to-day be seen -<span class="pb" id="Page_17">17</span> -as a very thin mud-coloured coating on the walls and floors of -the passageways, where it has been deposited by the subsiding -waters. At a very high stage of water in the creek there was -an overflow into Entrance No. 1 that made the first exploration -by W. S. Ayres and party a wet and somewhat dangerous -operation. This overflow, however, was dammed back by -Deutschman, and no further trouble has since been experienced -with it.</p> -<h3 id="c6"><span class="sc">The Gorge Series.</span></h3> -<p>“As stated above, the exit of Cougar creek from Mill -bridge takes place at the bottom of a narrow crack, or gorge, -running at right angles to the general direction of the stream. -The Gorge is 300 feet in length, about 50 feet wide, and is spanned -by two natural rock bridges. The sides are composed of badly -shattered limestone. On emerging from its subterranean -course beneath Mill bridge, the creek flows through the Gorge -80 feet below the floor of the valley. At the lower or north end -is the opening that leads to the largest and most interesting of -the series of passageways forming the Nakimu Caves. The -Gorge forms a very striking feature of the external scenery, and -several places are accessible from which views may be had into -its depths that are wild and impressive in the extreme. The -opening is a dome-shaped break in the wall forming the north -end. Into this the stream tumbles with wild fury over a confusion -of huge fragments of rock piled up in the passageway. It -creates leaps and falls and a dissemination of spray that makes -the opening to the outer world, as seen from below, appear -through a luminous mist. The aperture is some thirty feet -wide and about the same height.</p> -<div class="img" id="pic8"> -<img src="images/pic007.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="567" /> -<p class="captionc">View from Road—Mt. Avalanche, Eagle Peak, Mt. Sir Donald.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div> -<p>“Proceeding downwards, at the foot of the falls, the channel -resumes its normal direction of a little south of east. It is -necessary here to cross the stream, which swings northward -into lower depths, and from now on the passageways are quite -free from wet, though somewhat damp from the moistness of -the Atmosphere. At the turn of the Creek’s direction you enter -a chamber 150 feet long, 25 feet wide and from 10 feet high at -the upper end to 30 feet at the lower end. This chamber is -dimly illuminated by the daylight from outside. It is in a bad -state of ruin, and the floor is heaped with debris thrown from -the ceiling and sides. The roof is composed of one immense -slab of rock sloping with the dip of the strata. The creek has -broken through the northeast wall nearly in the middle of the -chamber and disappears into the blackness with a dull reverberating -roar. Fifty feet beyond the creek, the passage turns -north again and it is necessary to descend a rock face of some 12 -feet. On it are natural notches or footholds that would seem -as though they had been cut with a cold-chisel for the special -purpose; for persons unaccustomed to climbing, it is well to use -a rope to steady the descent at this spot. The creek is now heard -far down, welling through some rock-cut with a dull, intermittent -pounding, resembling the blows of an immense sledge-hammer. -Forty feet to the right, through a low roofed passage -about 2 feet high, you creep into the ‘Dropping Cave.’ It is -about 30 by 40 feet and 6 to 10 feet high, and so named from the -fact that water drops from the roof in all directions. The floor -is composed of broken rock fragments, and the walls and ceilings -of dark blue limestone marked in places by irregular streaks of -white crystalline calcite. At the eastern end, a very narrow -passage between fallen masses of rock, affording barely room to -squeeze through, leads to ‘The Witches Ball-room.’ It is 1½ to -2 feet wide, 3 to 4 feet high and some 20 feet in length.</p> -<p>“The Ball-room is roughly triangular in shape with sides -of about 60 feet, and an estimated height of 50 feet. The largest -portion of the space is occupied by an enormous rock that has -fallen from the roof. This rock has a generally level surface, -and is just the spot where a group of witch-hags might be expected -to caper round the ghastly fumes of some hellish cauldron at a -Sabbath meeting; hence the name, in sympathy with the ill-omened -and weird surroundings. On all sides, except that of -the passage, are deep cracks partly choked up by fallen blocks -but still exposing many deep and pitch-black holes leading to -the unknown, where the underground stream is heard roaring -dully. By one of these, at the northeast corner of the chamber, -W. S. Ayres and C. H. Deutschman penetrated to ‘The Terror’ -and ‘The Old Mill,’ the former 60 odd feet below the Ball-room. -Their explorations in this quarter are shown on the accompanying -<a href="#map1">map</a>, in red, and a description of them will be found in Mr. -Ayres’ supplementary report. Many of the fallen blocks show -crystalline calcite markings similar to those found in the Dropping -Cave.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div> -<p>“Leaving the Ball-room the passage leads southeasterly for -a distance of 125 feet to where there is a parting of the ways. -The upper end is a vaulted chamber, 15 to 20 feet wide and -about 20 feet high, a crack on the left, leading to the depths -below, has been partly filled by fallen rock debris. The broken -blocks of which the floor is composed show crystallized dark blue -limestone, veined with white ribbons of calcite. For the lower -portion, the passage lies between separated limestone strata -from 3 to 7 feet apart; the floor, of broken boulders and slabs -is very irregular. Both roof and floor are water-worn and show -erosion markings. They descend until they meet 20 to 30 feet -below. The subterranean stream is heard with a muffled roar -on the left. On the right, three passages, met at intervals, lead -to two circular funnel-like chambers, the more distant of which -has been named ‘The Pit.’</p> -<p>“It is now necessary to return to the surface and seek ingress -to the caves by means of Entrance No. 3, not far from the Gorge -on the eastern side. Entrance No. 3 is close by Lookout point -and is the first accessible opening seen on the journey up the -valley. A descent is made some 10 or 12 feet by a rough ladder, -placed by Deutschman, to a small cavern where there is just room -for three persons to crouch. Off this, a very narrow slit, through -which it is barely possible to squeeze, opens to a narrow chute. -Down this chute, by means of a rope placed around the body, -a descent can be made some 20 feet, to the brink of space. -From the final ledge a stone will drop a long way before it strikes. -The total distance from the opening to the brink of the Pit is -60 feet.</p> -<p>“When surveying the Gorge series, the writer discovered -a very peculiar passage, shown on the <a href="#map1">map</a> as the ‘Marbleway.’ -It was of a perfectly eroded structure, composed of a number of -small connected potholes in a dark bluish-grey limestone, shot -in every direction by ribbon streaks of white crystalline calcite. -The walls were dripping with moisture and rendered the limestone -dead black and the veins of calcite vivid white, the whole -resembling a rich glistening marble. This passage was followed -to the larger one shown on the <a href="#map1">map</a>, and that in turn to the -circular chamber named ‘The Pit.’ It seemed probable that -this was the spot where stones, dropped from the ledge attained -by Entrance No. 3, first struck, so Deutschman was sent to -reconnoitre and, not long afterwards, his face could be seen -near the extreme apex of the roof peering down through the dim -halo of his tallow dip. A stone tied to a cord and subsequently -measured showed the drop to the floor of the Pit to be 120 feet.</p> -<p>“The chamber is about 20 feet in diameter and rises like -a gigantic funnel to something over the height named. The walls -are similar to those of the Marbleway, and some of the effects -are very peculiar, reminding the beholder of forked lightning -on a dead black background. At the bottom of the Pit was seen -a very queer slab of rock, shaped almost perfectly like a monumental -tombstone, and having directly in its centre, as though -<span class="pb" id="Page_20">20</span> -carved by hand, a cross (+). The descent from the floor of the -Pit to the main passage, although slightly precipitous in one -or two places, is quite easy, the distance being 120 and 130 feet -by the main way and Marbleway, respectively. The walls of -the Pit funnel are water-worn and, at one time, a stream flowed -into it by Entrance No. 3, doubtless being the cause of the formation -of the chamber. The stream, which now only carries -off the surplus flow from the melting snows, has found another -subterranean opening and joins Cougar creek in its underground -way, somewhere beyond the Ball-room.</p> -<p>“At the meeting of the ways above referred to, the lower -or eastern one is named ‘The Slanting Way’ from the fact that -the passage is formed by a separation of the limestone strata, -and lies across their dip. The upper passage has an arched roof -and has been named ‘The Subway.’ Both are difficult to traverse: -the former on account of the broken debris and sloping rock of -which the floors are formed, and of two uncomfortably narrow -places which can be squeezed through with difficulty; the latter -on account of the close proximity of floor and ceiling and the -necessity of bending nearly double for a considerable part of -the distance while traversing it. The lower passage is the easier -of the two. The strata forming the Slanting Way are from five -to ten feet apart. The slabs of both roof and floor are water-worn -and bear spatulated erosion marks, like incipient honey-combing. -On the east, or left side, as you advance, are deep -cracks in the strata, at the bottom of whose depths Cougar -creek may be heard echoing loudly through the vaulted ways. -Stones dropped into these seem to rebound for a long time -before resting. About the centre of the Slanting Way the cracks -in the strata expand and a descent may be made to the bed of -Cougar creek below the Turbine. The Turbine is reached by -a rather difficult passage requiring some skill in climbing. The -end of the passage is an irregular opening in the rock. Across -a chasm, at whose bottom flows the main stream, a number of -water-spouts rush out with great force and a noise resembling -that produced by water falling into the pit of a turbine. For -an account of this section see Ayres’ report. Near the south -end of the Slanting Way is a curious pothole on the left-hand -side. Directly beyond it the floor and walls are covered by an -incrustation of carbonate of lime, varying in thickness from 2 -to 6 inches. It is of a light creamy colour, shading off in some -places to a delicate salmon. The formation has a florescent -appearance and resembles, mostly, cauliflower heads set closely -together, a simile derived from W. S. Ayres’ report. Owing to -the beautiful floral decorations, this particular spot has been -named ‘The Art Gallery.’</p> -<p>“Similar decorations are found throughout the Caves, -though not so extensively as at this and a few other places. At -some, there is only a thin veneer of the carbonate formation and, -at others, rock-milk (<i>agaric mineral</i>) is seen on the floors and -boulders. The writer did not observe any stalagmites, nor any -<span class="pb" id="Page_21">21</span> -stalactites worth speaking of. The longest did not exceed 15 -inches, and resembled, more than anything else, a thin icicle of -that length; its chief interest being that it was clear and transparent, -as though made of ice, and as brittle as glass.</p> -<p>“The Subway is about 10 to 15 feet wide and from 7 to 2 -feet high; the roof is arched and covered by moisture drops, -which are very unpleasant when they find their way down your -back. The floor is of broken rock, rising to a ridge along the -centre of the passageway.</p> -<p>“From the meeting of the ways, just beyond the Art Gallery, -the passage continues southeasterly, ever increasing in interest. -In the next 200 feet, it varies in width from 15 to 30 feet with -a height of 10 to 15 feet. On the right is a narrow twisting -side-opening named ‘The Gimlet.’ On the left are two concave -sections of old potholes, leading into the most subterranean -depths. They are profusely decorated by florescent carbonate -incrustations, the first one being named ‘The Dome’ from its -perfect formation. Minor passageways lead from them at a -still greater depth. The most southerly one connects with -‘Judgment Hall,’ to be described further on (see <a href="#map1">map</a>). In -this section the underground course of Cougar creek crosses the -corridor, at a considerable depth below, and the roar of the hidden -waters is transferred from the left to the right hand.</p> -<p>“A narrow opening, 1½ feet wide and 15 feet long, now -leads to ‘Carbonate Grotto’ where are seen very fine calcium -decorations. The Cavern containing the grotto is about 60 by -30 feet, with a height varying from 10 to 15 feet. For the next -130 feet the passage varies from 8 feet wide and 5 feet high at -the upper end to 20 feet wide and 5 feet high at the lower end. -The sides are hung with rock shelves, and spotted with lime -incrustations; the bottom is much impeded by fallen blocks. -You now find yourself in a cul-de-sac and apparently at the end -of the series. Not so, however, for by squeezing through a -narrow opening on the right, barely noticeable in the darkness, -you are enabled to descend to probably the largest cavern of all, -at a depth of 57 feet below the corridor just left. The chamber, -200 feet long, 20 feet wide and 40 to 50 feet high has been named -‘Judgment Hall,’ on account of a pillar which might stand for -the pillar of justice. The floor is littered by blocks broken from -the roof and sides which lie piled in great heaps at the north end. -The roof is roughly arched, and the sides rise upwards in parallel -ledges resembling shelves. Roof, sides, and the rocks piled on -the floor, are covered by the white calcite and, in many places, -present most beautiful patterns and beds of florescent formations. -The north end is connected by a rough passage with one of the -potholes referred to below the meeting of the ways.</p> -<p>“Near the centre of the western wall, a narrow gap leads -to a very beautiful, though small, chamber named ‘The White -Grotto’ by W. S. Ayres. The carbonate decorations here are -of great beauty and delicacy. The passage in which the chamber -is found is 40 feet long, 15 feet wide and 10 feet high. The final -<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span> -cave has been named the ‘Bridal Chamber’ by W. S. Ayres, -owing to the purity of its lime draperies and the general beauty -of its floral decorations. It is small, and beyond this point -exploration has not yet been carried. The passage breaks off -in a precipice falling to a deep chasm, at the bottom of which -a subterranean stream, probably Cougar creek, may be heard.</p> -<p>“This is the farthest point to which the present survey has -been carried. It is 240 feet from the Wind crack, previously -referred to as being seen on the way up the valley, and is only -54 feet above it; it is safe to assume that there is a connection -between. The wind issuing from the crack is probably due to a -water blast caused by the subterranean stream falling into the -chasm at the end of the exploration.</p> -<p>“There are two other passages, or rather sets of passages, -that have not yet been mentioned, viz.: ‘The Ice Cave,’ situated -above the deep entrance from the Gorge. It is reached from -the valley floor and is not of large dimensions, presenting only -one chamber of any size, which has been christened ‘The -Temple.’ The series has been named the Ice Cave from the -fact that the initial passage entrance is blocked by ice all the -year round, and an entry is effected over this blockage.</p> -<p>“The second set of passages are entered immediately -below the Goat falls, which pour into them until late in October, -when they become ice-bound. Last October, the writer followed -two of the passages—one for about 150 feet, the other for about -50 feet—but could get no farther without material for bridging. -The formation resembles the passage leading to the Auditorium, -but on a smaller scale, viz., a series of well formed potholes -connected one with the other. It is assumed that the flow from -the Goat falls, the big bulk of which passes through these two -channels, empties into the main waterway at the Turbine, but -its course may possibly be more direct. If it does not, however, -it is difficult to know where the water flowing in at the Turbine -comes from.</p> -<p>“It is still something more than half a mile from the end -of the present exploration to the final point at which the subterranean -waters of Cougar creek are returned to the surface -bed. There may consequently be accessible passageways that -are yet undiscovered but, as the surface grade over this unknown -interior is much steeper and the subterranean creek bed is -approaching the surface, it seems probable that, if existing, -they will be found inaccessible.</p> -<p>“The fact of W. S. Ayres having at two places within the -Gorge series reached the actual bed of the subterranean stream -would point to there being no further passages below that level. -It would, therefore, appear that the largest accessible portion -of the series is now on record. Much of the part shown in red -on the accompanying <a href="#map1">map</a> is difficult of access and dangerous -to unskilled climbers. Indeed, for that matter, there are plenty -of difficult places throughout.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div> -<h3 id="c7">Formation of the Caves.</h3> -<p>Mr. Ayres thinks that the Caves have been formed entirely -by water erosion, but Mr. Wheeler differs from him in this respect. -Mr. Ayres says:—</p> -<p>“The rocks in which the Cave occurs are of very hard -crystalline limestone, dipping about 30 degrees to the east. In -‘Entrance No. 1’ these beds are very thick and are made up of -alternate bands of white, mottled and grey marble. Some of -the bands are very highly impregnated with fine sharp sand, -so much so, in fact, that excellent whetstones can be made from -them.</p> -<div class="img" id="pic9"> -<img src="images/pic008.jpg" alt="" width="588" height="800" /> -<p class="captionc">On the road 3½ miles from Glacier. -<br />White Pine may be observed along the route—a very unusual spectacle in the Selkirk range of mountains.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div> -<p>“The Cave has, undoubtedly, been formed entirely by water -erosion. The stream which formed it, Cougar creek, is entirely -made up of glacier and snow water, and above the cave is free -from any lime salts. Its capacity, therefore, to dissolve lime rock -when brought in contact with it, is at its maximum. The -fine grains of sharp sand, loosened from the lime rock and caught -in the swift current of the small stream that at first found its -way through a shrinkage crack of some particular bed of limestone, -have undoubtedly given the water an uncommon erosive -power, which, through the countless years of the cave’s history, -has enabled that mountain torrent to carve out a mammoth -channel in solid marble.</p> -<p>“The absence of all stalactites and stalagmites, such as are -usually found in caves, and the presence of curiously carved -marble walls, wonderfully carved in fantastic shapes and sombre -colouring, suddenly make one realize that he is far removed from -things familiar.”</p> -<p>The Indian word “Nakimu,” by which the Caves are -generally known, has the Anglo-Saxon equivalent of “grumbling.”</p> -<p>This might imply that in some distant past a seismic -disturbance in the interior of the mountain resulted in its Indian -appellation, or, on the other hand, it may be due solely to the -rumbling sound of the subterranean torrent.</p> -<p>Mr. Wheeler, in differing from Mr. Ayres as to the factors -mainly instrumental in forming the underground channels and -caverns as seen to-day, states his conviction that an agency, -more potent and far-reaching than mere erosion and disintegration -by the ordinary processes of nature, has been at work.</p> -<p>In his arguments in this connection he says:—</p> -<p>“From the point where Cougar creek first drops beneath -Gopher bridge, the old surface channel may be traced, though -dammed and nearly obliterated in places. If the natural -dam shown at the first point of entrance were removed, the -stream would again revert to the old entrance. Southwest of -the old entrance is a still older natural dam, whose removal -would allow the stream to proceed to the Mill bridge; thence, -following the ravine between the two camp grounds, it would -pass directly across the Gorge, supposing that great rift not yet -to exist, and flowing past ‘Entrance No. 3,’ would descend in -a cataract beyond Lookout point.</p> -<p>“There is no doubt that these particular beds of limestone -are badly shattered in the mass. It is shown by the fact that -the surrounding streams, the Gopher falls, the periodical stream -flowing to Entrance No. 3, and that of the Goat falls all join the -main stream by underground ways. There are several other -instances where the present bed of the creek could hardly be due -to shrinkage and erosion, as in the case of the deep rift of the -Gorge lying directly across the dip of the strata (the strata dip -a little south of east, at an angle between 35 degrees and 40 -degrees). The same thing is noticed in the subterranean bed -<span class="pb" id="Page_25">25</span> -of the creek from the east end of the Witches Ball-room to -where it crosses the main corridor near the Art Gallery.</p> -<p>“From October 16 to 21, last, during the survey made of -the Gorge series by the writer, though it was well below zero at -the camp in the woods, there was no frost found in the cave -interiors at a short distance from the entrance. Thus, two of -the highest factors of disintegration, sun and frost, are lacking, -when accounting for the wholesale cleavage that has taken place -within the old waterways. The enormous size of the blocks, -moreover, and the indication that the largest of them had been -displaced a very long time ago would point to the agency of a -severe shock or series of shocks such as would be caused by an -earthquake or some similar seismic disturbance. That such -disturbances have taken place and acted in this particular locality -is borne out by other curious phenomena for which it is -difficult to find a different explanation.</p> -<p>“In 1904, Prof. W. H. Sherzer, on behalf of the Smithsonian -Institution of Washington, D.C., visited the Canadian -Rockies for the purpose of studying their glaciers. Among a -series of five, he made a special study of the Illecillewaet glacier -situated about seven and a half miles from the Caves. At some -distance from the present ice-tongue of the glacier, were found -two moraines about a third of a mile apart, composed of enormous -blocks of quartzite, weighing in some single instances as much -as 1,250 tons, and retaining the original shape in which they were -cast from the peaks above to the snow-field and glacier transporting -them to the place where they are now found. Prof. -Sherzer has named these ‘Block Moraines’ in distinction to -ordinary moraines composed of ice-worn, rounded boulders -imbedded in a species of cement, commonly known as boulder -clay.</p> -<p>“The question is: How and at what time were these block -moraines formed. At the present day the glaciers are wholly -incapable of transporting such a load, and no such quantities of -material are to be found upon the snow-field, below the peaks, -as would be necessary to form a similar moraine, even during -a protracted period of rest on the part of the glacier.</p> -<p>“In the endeavor to ascertain a date for their formation, -Prof. Sherzer cut down trees growing between the two moraines -and counted the rings of growth. The oldest was found to have -an age of 550 years. Trees, also, growing on the inner or younger -moraine were measured and the age of the oldest ascertained to -be 447 years. Allowing for the time required for the collection -of sufficient soil to permit of growth taking place, the moraine, -therefore, would be between 500 and 600 years old.</p> -<p>“Professor Sherzer points to the probability of seismic -disturbances being the cause of these block moraines and that -the material of which they are formed had been shaken from the -peaks to the snow-field below. Making due allowance for the -period of transportation of the material forming the inner moraine, -<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span> -the earthquake would thus have occurred during the thirteenth -century. (See ‘Glacial Studies in the Canadian Rockies and -Selkirks, Smithsonian Expedition of 1904,’ by William Hittell -Sherzer, Ph. D.)</p> -<p>“That disturbances of this nature have taken place in -Canada at a much more recent date is pointed out in the above -report by the following quotation from the ‘<i>Jesuite Relations</i>,’ -Thwaites translations, vol. xlvii, pp. 37-57; 183-223: ‘On the -fifth of February, 1663, towards half-past five in the evening, -a loud roaring was heard at the same time throughout the -length and breadth of Canadas. . . . On level ground, -hills have arisen; mountains, on the other hand, have been -depressed and flattened. Chasms of wonderful depth, exhaling -a foul stench, have been hollowed out in many places, plains lie -open, far and wide, where there were formerly very dense and -lofty forests. Cliffs, although not quite levelled with the soil, -have been shattered and overturned.’</p> -<div class="img" id="pic10"> -<img src="images/pic009.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="751" /> -<p class="captionc">Government building at the Caves for the use of visitors.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<p>“If the origin of block moraines can be accounted for by -seismic disturbances, it is not improbable to assume that at -some remote date a similar occurrence has shattered this bed -of crystalline limestone and precipitated Cougar creek from its -surface course into subterranean channels, which, through the -course of ages, it has enlarged to their present size, and that -subsequent shocks have been mainly responsible for the large -quantities of fallen debris that litter the interiors. Under such -a condition of affairs, the crack of the Gorge, and similar chasms -found below the surface, would be accounted for.”</p> -<p>The gist of Mr. Ayres’ arguments concerning the probable -age of the cave is contained in the following paragraphs:—</p> -<p>“The marble rocks in which the cave is formed belong -most probably to the Devonian age. No fossils were found, -however, to positively verify this conclusion. The limestone -rocks have not been completely changed into marble at all -points as was observed under ‘Gopher Bridge’ and in ‘The Terror.’ -Notwithstanding the fact that the rocks belong to a comparatively -old series, yet the beginning of the cave undoubtedly -dates from a very recent geological time.</p> -<p>“Assuming the rate of erosion to be one thirty-second of an -inch in a year, then to cut down one hundred feet of rock, which -is about the average amount eroded in the main cave, would -require 38,400 years. Any actual rate greater or less than this -assumption would increase or diminish the age of the cave. In -several places along Cougar creek in the bottom of the cave an -excellent opportunity is afforded to determine actually the present -annual rate of erosion. A micrometer measuring apparatus -should be used and the area of cross-section of the rock eroded -per year thus accurately computed. Also the ratio between the -area of the cross-section of the average stream and the area of -the rock eroded should be determined. And finally, the quantity -of water passing the given section in one year, and its velocity, -should be accurately measured.</p> -<p>“In contemplating the foregoing suggestion as to the -probable age of the cave, it should be borne in mind that where -gravel and sand lodge in the bed of the stream the rate of erosion -is many times less than where the bed is continually swept -clean by a more rapid current.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div> -<h3 id="c8">EXCURSION SUGGESTIONS.</h3> -<p>Nakimu Caves may be reached by travelling to Glacier, -in Glacier Park, B.C., on the Canadian Pacific railway, and -from that point either by walking or riding on a pony a distance -of about seven miles along excellent road and trail.</p> -<div class="img" id="pic11"> -<img src="images/pic010.jpg" alt="" width="584" height="800" /> -<p class="captionc">A pic-nic party at the Caves.</p> -</div> -<p>The distance to the Nakimu Caves from Glacier House by -way of the wagon road—Illecillewaet river and Cougar creek, -is 7 miles; by horse trail, via Rogers pass over the summit of -Baloo pass to the Caves, the distance is 3 miles farther. Baloo -pass is 6681 feet above sea-level, and from the summit is an -extensive view, including not only the Hermit range and McDonald, -but the Dawson peaks, Bishop range and the mountains -that girt Cougar valley.</p> -<p>At the Caves is a government building especially adapted -for campers, with cook stoves and other conveniences. Parties -desiring to camp can make arrangements by writing to C. H. -Deutschman, The Caves, Glacier, B.C.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<p>This camp is the starting point for many easy and hard rock -climbs.</p> -<p>From Cheops, whose altitude is 8,506 feet above sea-level, -but only 3,300 feet above the cabin, the view is unsurpassed, -owing to its central location. The climb takes 3½ hours and, -from the top, over 200 glaciers can be counted, and on a clear -day the Rocky mountains, 150 miles away, can be seen guarding -the horizon with rugged peaks.</p> -<p>Cougar mountain (altitude, 7,882 feet, 2,500 feet above the -camp) is an easier and shorter climb of 2 hours.</p> -<p>Ursus Major, altitude, 8,930 feet; Ursus Minor, altitude, -9,026 feet; Catamount, altitude, 8,956 feet; Bagheera, altitude, -9,096 feet and many others, are within the limit of a day’s -climb.</p> -<p>The ice caves under the Glacier at the head of Cougar valley -are also worth a visit. For botanists, this is a paradise, the alpine -and sub-alpine flowers being gorgeous and abundant, and many -rare species are found here. Over 150 species can be gathered -in a short time in July or August.</p> -<p>A two days’ camping trip may be undertaken as follows:—</p> -<p>From Glacier House via Baloo pass to the Nakimu Caves, -exploring Bear creek and Cougar valleys, spending the night at -Camp, visiting “The Caves” and arriving at Glacier in time -for dinner the following evening.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div> -<div class="img" id="map1"> -<img src="images/map_lr.jpg" alt="" width="685" height="600" /> -<p class="captionc">DEPARTMENT <span class="sc">OF THE</span> INTERIOR -<br />TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP -<br /><span class="smaller">SHOWING THE POSITION OF</span> -<br /><span class="large">THE NAKIMU CAVES</span> -<br /><span class="small"><span class="sc">in Cougar Creek Valley, Selkirk Mts. -<br />British Columbia</span></span><br /><a class="ab" href="images/map_hr.jpg">High-resolution Map</a></p> -</div> -<h2 id="c9">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul><li>Some palpable typographical errors were corrected.</li> -<li>Copyright and publisher’s information was included from the printed copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication.</li></ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Nakimu Caves, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE NAKIMU CAVES *** - -***** This file should be named 51042-h.htm or 51042-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/0/4/51042/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, and the online -Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at -http://www.pgdpcanada.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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