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diff --git a/old/50962-0.txt b/old/50962-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 8066a1b..0000000 --- a/old/50962-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8373 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Brighter Britain! (Volume 2 of 2), by William Delisle Hay - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Brighter Britain! (Volume 2 of 2) - or Settler and Maori in Northern New Zealand - -Author: William Delisle Hay - -Release Date: January 18, 2016 [EBook #50962] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRIGHTER BRITAIN! (VOLUME 2 OF 2) *** - - - - -Produced by Heiko Evermann, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - BRIGHTER BRITAIN! - OR - SETTLER AND MAORI - IN - _NORTHERN NEW ZEALAND._ - - - BY - WILLIAM DELISLE HAY, - - AUTHOR OF - "THREE HUNDRED YEARS HENCE," "THE DOOM OF THE GREAT CITY," ETC. - - "Queen of the seas, enlarge thyself! - Send thou thy swarms abroad! - For in the years to come,— - Where'er thy progeny, - Thy language and thy spirit shall be found,— - If— - —in that Austral world long sought, - The many-isled Pacific,— - When islands shall have grown, and cities risen - In cocoa-groves embower'd; - Where'er thy language lives, - By whatsoever name the land be call'd, - That land is English still." - SOUTHEY. - - - IN TWO VOLUMES.—VOL. II. - - LONDON: - RICHARD BENTLEY AND SON, - NEW BURLINGTON STREET. - - 1882. - - _(All rights reserved.)_ - - - - - PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL II. - - -CHAPTER PAGE - -I. OUR SPECIAL PRODUCTS 1 - -II. OUR CLASSIC GROUND 29 - -III. MAORI MANNERS. I. 71 - -IV. MAORI MANNERS. II. 100 - -V. MAORI MANNERS. III. 135 - -VI. OUR NATURALIST'S NOTE-BOOK 184 - -VII. THE DEMON DOG—A YARN 232 - -VIII. OUR LUCK 272 - - APPENDIX 303 - - - - -BRIGHTER BRITAIN! - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -OUR SPECIAL PRODUCTS. - - -Northern New Zealand has two special products, which are peculiar -to the country, and found nowhere else. They are kauri timber and -kauri-gum. When speaking of Northern New Zealand in these sketches, -I do not thereby intend the whole of the North Island, as has been -previously explained; I mean that northern part of it which may be more -properly designated "The Land of the Kauri." - -The kauri grows throughout all that part of the old province of -Auckland which lies to the north of S. lat. 37° 30' or 38°. It does -not grow naturally anywhere south of the thirty-eighth parallel -of latitude, nor, I believe, can it be induced to flourish under -cultivation south of its natural boundary line. - -The kauri is indigenous to this comparatively small section of New -Zealand. It is one of the _Coniferæ_, or pines, and is named by -botanists _Dammara Australis_. The only tree of similar species that -affords a timber nearly resembling the kauri, though not of such good -quality, is one that is found in Fiji; the _Dammara Vitiensis_. It may -be as well to mention that kauri and Maori rhyme together, and are -pronounced "kowry" and "mowry."[1] - -[1] See _Pronunciation of Maori Names_, in the Appendix. - -The kauri was first brought into notice by Captain Cook, who, it will -be remembered, passed many months in New Zealand altogether, and the -greater part of the time in the north. He discovered that kauri was -superior to Norway pine, or indeed, to any other wood then known, for -spars and topmasts of vessels. Other explorers endorsed his opinion of -it, and in 1820 the British Government sent a ship, the _Dromedary_, -to New Zealand, for the purpose of obtaining kauri timber. It was then -classed high at Lloyd's. - -Subsequently a demand for kauri timber arose in Sydney and elsewhere. -Some trade in it was established with the Maoris; and little -communities of English sawyers settled here and there along the coast -of New Zealand. This was one among other causes that led to the -colonization of the country in 1840. Thus the kauri holds a place in -history, having had its share in making this our Brighter Britain. - -The value of the kauri to New Zealand at large, and to the North -in particular, can hardly be overrated. It is an important export, -being sent to other parts of the colony, to Australia, the South Sea -Islands, and elsewhere. In its own country it is used for every purpose -to which timber is applicable. The many other trees of the bush are -neglected for the sake of it; while it is more plentiful than any of -them. Settlers in other parts of the colony, beyond the limit of the -kauri's growth, make use of their native timbers, but lament that the -cost of transport prevents them from importing kauri, so much superior -is it. Wherever it is necessary to bring timber from a distance, as in -comparatively treeless Otago for example, kauri is preferred; though it -will have to be brought from further away than totara, miro, or matai, -which are cut in southern forests. - -One may say that the kauri is to Northern New Zealand what the oak has -been to England, and even more. There, houses are built of it almost -exclusively; it is used in the construction of vessels, for fencing, -furniture, and all the more general purposes. And its valuable resin is -the kauri gum of commerce; but that I must speak of separately. - -Not alone is the kauri monarch in the forests of New Zealand, but it -must rank among the royallest trees the earth produces. It grows, for -the most part, in forests sacred to itself, not mixing with the common -herd of trees. In this respect other kinds of pine are similar. Also, -each distinct tract of kauri bush, or forest, contains trees of a -certain uniformity of age, consequently of size. In the aggregate vast -tracts are covered with it. The largest forest of kauri is that between -the Hokianga and the Kaipara waters, which, I believe, is to be put -down at nearly a thousand square miles in extent, bush of a more varied -description intervening here and there among it. After it come the -kauri forests of Mongonui, Whangaroa, and Coromandel. - -There are few experiences more impressive to the feelings than to stand -alone in the recesses of a kauri forest. Unlike the character of the -mixed bush—the forest where trees of many other kinds are found—the -kauri bush is weirdly depressing from its terrible monotony. It is -solemn, sombre, and gloomy to the last degree. Yet is there a profound -majesty about it that awes one in spite of oneself. - -The trees stand closely together, not branching out much till near -the top. They cover range and gully, mountain and plain, in unbroken -succession. At the base they may girth as much as up to fifty feet. -Forty feet of girth is not uncommon, and thirty feet is often the -average. They soar up straight to a hundred, a hundred and fifty, even -to a hundred and eighty feet before branching, and then their leafy -crowns, interlaced together, form a canopy through which daylight -hardly penetrates. - -The boles of these woodland giants are mostly black and smooth, -sometimes covered with twigs, though this chiefly in the smaller -trees. Supple-jack, bush-lawyer, mounga, various creeper-ferns with -magnificent fronds, and sometimes flowering clematis, swing from trunk -to trunk and knit the columns together. Below there is not the thick -undergrowth that prevails in the varied bush, but a lighter tangle -of shrubs. Ferns, among which several varieties like the maidenhair -predominate, grow waist-high in rank luxuriance. - -The sublime grandeur of a kauri forest is hardly equalled by anything -else of the kind in nature. One seems to stand amid the aisles -of a mighty temple, shut out from the world and imprisoned amid -endless ranks of tremendous columns. Stillness and silence deepen -the profundity of gloom around one. The fiercest gale may be raging -overhead, and not a leaf is stirred within the dark coverts; only the -faint murmur of the foliage far above betrays what is passing. Of life -there is nothing visible. The little fantails, the traveller's friends -in the bush, hover around one, and they are all one sees, unless it -be, perchance, the rapid flash of a rat running up some trunk, or the -scuttling of a kiwi or weka amid the fern. - -To get some real notion of what these forests are like let us compare -them with English woods. The latter bear the palm of beauty, but the -former that of grandeur from their very vastness. The largest wood in -England is but the size of one dingle in a kauri forest, and is flat -and tame contrasted with the hilly ruggedness of the land here. Again, -measure the girth of English beeches, oaks, elms, and ashes. The oldest -and best grown woods will not give you an average girth of ten feet. -Trees girthing fifteen to twenty feet are rare and singular. What is -this to the giant kauri? - -If we look at height there is another difference. English trees are -remarkable for their limbs and branches. Take these away, and the stick -that remains seldom averages more than thirty or forty feet. If it -reaches to sixty the tree is regarded as something extraordinary. But -the splendid dome of foliage, the beautiful spread of boughs, which is -the glory of English oak or chestnut, is forbidden to the kauri. Its -magnificence resides solely in its stick, which is more like a factory -chimney than anything else. You get an impression of immensity, you -feel a veritable pigmy as you walk, mile after mile, among trees -whose girth is thirty feet, and whose branches only begin a hundred -and thirty feet from the ground; while, every now and then, you come -upon some patriarch of fifty feet girth and a hundred and eighty feet, -perhaps, of stick. - -An assertion has been made, that if the present rate of consumption be -kept up, some eighty years will see the end of the kauri forests. This -may be true, but I do not think it is. I fancy that it is a calculation -made in ignorance of the real extent of the kauri bush. Also, that no -true idea was conceived of the enormous bulk of the trees, and the -countless number of them to be found far back from the rivers, in the -less accessible regions of the bush. I think I might say, with quite as -much show of reason, that if the present rate of consumption were even -doubled, as it doubtless will be, a century may elapse before economy -in cutting kauri need be studied. - -When working with parties of the Government Land Survey, I had good -opportunities for getting some idea of the stupendous supplies of kauri -timber. I once counted forty trees on a measured acre. Of these the -smallest had a girth of twenty feet, with a stick of about eighty feet -in height; the largest might be about double that. We estimated that -these trees would yield a million feet of sawn timber. Of course that -is an exceptional instance, but it must be remembered that there are -hundreds of square miles of kauri bush in the aggregate. - -The annual output of the saw-mills is reckoned to be sixty million -feet of sawn kauri timber, the value of which may be roughly put at -£300,000. Much of this is used up in the colony; but an increasing -export trade, amounting in value to £40,000 or £50,000 per annum, is -carried on with Australia, Fiji, and the South Sea Islands. There are -some twenty large saw-mills in various parts of the kauri forests, and -there are other small ones which supply local demands; together these -employ a large number of hands. - -The largest mill is that at Te Kopura, on the Wairoa river, some -forty-five miles above its outfall into the Kaipara harbour. It can -turn out 120,000 feet per week. At Aratapu, higher up the same river, -there is another mill, turning out 80,000 feet per week. These mills -are working on the outskirts of the great Kaipara-Hokianga forest. -Vessels drawing seventeen feet of water can come up the Wairoa to -load at them. The mill at Whangaroa, on the east coast, ranks next in -point of size, turning out sawn timber to the average annual value -of £23,000. At Whangapoua, in Coromandel, are two mills, cutting -about 160,000 feet per week between them. The cost of their plant was -£25,000. The Whangapoua kauri bush extends over some 30,000 acres. - -Sawn kauri is sold at the mills at 9_s._ 6_d._ to 11_s._ 6_d._ per -hundred feet. The high freights cause it to cost 15_s._ to 17_s._ in -the southern ports, and, I believe, it is sold at about the same in -Sydney or the Islands. It would not be easy to say what is the average -yield of a tree, the difference being very considerable. Some put it -down at 10,000 feet, but I am sure that is an under estimate. - -A stick of fifty feet length, and thirty feet in circumference at the -base, might be reckoned to yield about 20,000 feet of sawn timber. The -value of this would be £100. Deducting £40 as the cost of felling, -transporting to the mill, and cutting up, a profit of £60 is left. This -is a fair example. When a stick of a hundred and fifty feet, with a -girth of forty or fifty feet, is in question, both work and profit are -larger, of course. - -The stump of one of these titanic trees is no small affair. It is big -enough to build a small house upon, if sawn flat. I remember once -making one of a party of eight, and dancing a quadrille on the stump of -a kauri. - -There is a variety of the tree known as the mottled kauri. The wood -of this is very curious and beautiful, and fetches a high price for -cabinet work. It is not very common, and when a big tree of this kind -is come upon, it is a source of great gratification to its owner, for -it may yield him £500 or £600 of absolute profit. - -Felling big trees with the axe is tremendous labour. Till recently it -was the only means employed here. Perhaps you may have to cut five or -six feet deep into the tree, in order to reach the heart of it. To do -this an enormous gash must be made, so large in fact, that scaffoldings -have to be erected within it, to permit the workmen to reach their -mark. Only two men can cut at the same gash at a time; but frequent -shifts are resorted to, so as to "keep the pot boiling." Now, a saw -working between portable engines is more generally employed upon the -big trees. - -When the great stick has been laid prostrate, with a crash that -resounds for miles, and a shock that makes the whole hillside quiver, -it is cut into lengths, and roughly squared with long-handled axes. -Then comes the process of getting it to the mill, which may possibly be -a considerable distance off. - -The hilly and rugged character of the land nearly always prevents -anything like a tramway system being adopted; and, for a long time, -trees were only cut where they could be readily run down into the -water. But a system has been introduced, by an American bushman, I -believe, which is now generally used, and by means of which the largest -trees can be got out anywhere in this country of heights and hollows. - -The logs are easily collected in the bottom of the nearest gully, as -they can be readily sent down the sides of the ranges by means of -screw-jacks, rollers and slides. When the sides of the gully have been -denuded of their timber, and a huge collection of logs lies piled in -the bottom, preparation is made to further their descent to the river. -A dam is built right across the ravine below the logs, constructed of -timber, earth, stones, and whatever material comes handiest. - -When the winter rains commence, the first day or two of continued -downpour causes every little water-course to swell into a foaming -torrent. The stream in the gully pours down a great volume of water, -which, checked by the dam, spreads out behind it into a broad lake that -fills all the lower ground. In this flood the mighty logs are borne up, -and float upon its surface. - -The sides of the dam, which is angularly shaped, are chiefly supported -by logs set up endways as buttresses upon the lower side. To these -supports ropes are attached, which are carried up the hillsides out -of reach of the water, above the level of the swollen flood pent in -by the dam. Then men and horses, or bullocks, haul with sudden and -united effort upon the ropes; the chief supports are torn away; the -dam breaks down in various places; the waters overflow and stream -through the breaches. Or, sometimes, the dam is flushed by breaching -it with gunpowder or dynamite. Soon the mass of water moves with -irresistible force, breaking down what is left of the dam and sweeping -everything before it. Then, in mighty volume, it rushes down the gully, -bearing onward with it the great collection of massive logs that it -has floated. Sometimes the first flush carries the timber down to the -open river. Sometimes the entire process has to be repeated more than -once or twice, if the distance be long, or the nature of the ground -necessitate it. - -When they fall into the river, or inlet of the sea, as the case may -be, the logs are brought up by booms ready to receive them. They are -then chained together in rafts and floated down to the mill, which, -of course, gives upon the water-highway. Often such a flush will -constitute a whole year's work, or longer; and will provide a supply of -raw material for the saw-mill that will last it as long. But exactly -the same process may be practically and profitably carried out for only -a few logs, where the gully is not large, and not too far from the -river. - -Our own special little community are pioneer farmers, of course, and we -do not employ ourselves in this way. Still, some of us have in former -years acted the part of lumberers, or bushmen proper, when we were -working at any jobs that turned up. The work we have is heavy enough in -all conscience, but it is light compared to the tremendous labour that -bushmen have to get through. - -The lowest rate of wages for bushmen is 25_s._ per week, and all found. -But the rate varies, better men getting better wages, the paucity -of hands affecting the scale, and strikes for more pay occurring -sometimes. I have known the hands of a saw-mill to get as much as seven -or nine shillings per day. - -Usually there are comfortable barracks for the men employed at a mill; -but, when working up in the bush, these are not always available, and -the workmen are lodged in huts, or shanties, upon the ground, being in -much the same case as we are in our shanty. Their employers supply them -with all necessaries, and have to be pretty careful in this respect, as -your bushman will not work unless he gets tucker according to a very -liberal scale. Beef, mutton and pork, bread, potatoes, kumera and tea -he gets in unlimited quantities, besides various other items that need -not be catalogued. - -Most of our produce is taken by the saw-mills at the market-price. We -have even sent them our fat steers and wethers, instead of shipping -them to Auckland; and one year we made a good thing by growing cabbages -and fresh vegetables for the bushmen. Like English colliers, they look -to have the best food going; and, what is more, they get it. Yet it -must be remembered that the bushman's work is terribly hard. It needs -the employment of all the physical strength and vigour a man has to -bestow, and this must be used with a continued pertinacity that is -excessively trying. - -Kauri-gum—or Kapia, as the Maoris call it—which has been just -alluded to, is another peculiar product of this northern extremity -of New Zealand. It is not of any practical service to the colonists, -as the timber of the tree which produces it is, but it is an export -of considerably greater value. It is the solidified sap, or resin of -the kauri, but not in a fresh form; it is that resin in a hardened -condition found buried in the ground. - -There are tracts of country, known as gum-fields, in which the -kauri-gum is to be dug up most plentifully. These places are stretches -of bleak moorland for the most part, though not invariably. The soil -in them consists very much of a heavy yellow clay, loose and friable -near the surface. It is impregnated with fragments and particles of -gum, which may be found in numerous spots to occur in layers and -collections of larger pieces, varying in size up to blocks the size of -a man's body. It is not usual to collect pieces smaller than the closed -fist—minuter fragments not being considered remunerative to the digger. - -The gum is found just below the surface of the ground, and sometimes -down to the depth of six or eight feet. The finding of it, collecting -and bringing to market, affords a sufficiently profitable occupation -to have constituted a distinct class of men, who go by the name of -gum-diggers. - -Gum-fields are poor lands usually, though some are adapted for -settlement. The country lying between Riverhead, Helensville, and -Ararimu, which I described when relating our journey up-country, is -a fair example of a gum-field. But gum is also found in the kauri -forests, round the roots of the trees, especially of old, partly -decayed, or wholly dead specimens. It is also to be found pretty -generally throughout all the land of the kauri. Of course it cannot -be discovered everywhere, or in all soils, but traces of it will be -apparent somewhere in any single square mile; and in every sort of -land throughout the limit of the kauri's growth, gum will be found here -and there. Thus, on our farm and in the surrounding bush, although -these are distinctly not gum-lands, there are little patches of ground, -of a few acres in extent, whence we have got a ton or two of gum at -times. - -It is worthy of remark that the fresh resin of the living trees is not -of any commercial value. Great masses of gum are often found in forks -and clefts of the trees, and about the roots; but of this, only a -little of the latter is generally worth anything, the rest being soft -and in a condition that renders it valueless. It seems that the gum -must be buried underground for a considerable time, an unknown term of -years, before it attains the degree of hardness and other qualities -that merchants require. - -I have been told that the Maoris collect the soft, fresh gum and -bury it, so that they or their descendants may dig it up again after -sufficient time has elapsed for it to undergo the requisite changes. -Whether this is so or not I am unable to say of my personal knowledge. -I have never met with any instance of the kind, and have strong doubts -as to the forecasting care with which such a tale credits the Maoris. -They are certainly not given to providing for a distant future in a -general way. - -It would seem that the deposits of gum in the soil are all that -remains of ancient kauri forests. These must once have covered the -open fern-lands, where no trace of them now remains, except rich -gum-holes here and there. It would seem that the kauri had, in the -course of ages, exhausted the soil on which they grew, of constituents -necessary to their growth, and had then naturally died out in such -localities. The existing forests are, of course, making new deposits, -which will some day be available. Felling the trees necessarily causes -a diminution of this, but possibly some means may yet be discovered of -rendering the fresh, soft gum equally useful with the semi-fossil kind. - -Kauri-gum is very like amber in general appearance, and is similar to -it in chemical characteristics; but it is much more brittle, and hence -is not of such value for ornaments. Many colonists amuse themselves -with carving and polishing trinkets of gum, but they chip too readily -to permit of their ever being of value. Kauri-gum has sometimes been -fraudulently substituted for amber, but the better specimens of the -latter have a yellow tint which is seldom seen in the New Zealand -product. Our gum exists of various shades of brown and sherry-colour, -both clear and clouded. The most highly-prized variety is colourless -like glass, or nearly so, and some is found almost black, not unlike -jet. Flies, fragments of moss, and so on, are occasionally seen -embedded in it. - -Kauri-gum was first brought into notice at the time of the first -colonization, in 1840 and 1841. It was then collected chiefly by -Maoris, and was sold by them to the store-keepers. Its value at that -time was only £5 or £6 per ton; and about a hundred tons was all the -annual export for some years. - -Since then, however, an increasing demand for it arose in the -United States. New York and Boston now take two-thirds of all the -gum exported; and of what is sent home to England the greater part -is re-shipped thence to American ports. The number of gum-diggers -regularly employed is supposed to have exceeded four thousand at times; -now they average some two thousand altogether. The amount of the export -steadily increased from the first, until, in 1870-71-72, it reached -to some fifteen thousand tons for the three years, valued at half a -million sterling. - -Subsequent to this there was very considerable falling off in the -export. The number of diggers decreased, fields were declared worked -out, and it was thought that the supplies were exhausted. But after a -year or two, it was discovered that gum existed in many places where -its presence had been hitherto unsuspected; and it was also made -clear that large deposits were often underlying the two or three feet -of surface-soil previously worked, on the fields it was thought were -exhausted. - -A fresh impulse was given to gum-digging, and the amount of the export -rose again. In 1878, it stood at 3410 tons; in 1879, at 3247 tons; -in 1880, as much as 5500 tons was shipped, valued at £236,500. From -1853 to 1880 inclusive, about 70,000 tons were sent out, export value -£2,100,000. It would thus seem that kauri-gum is more plentiful now -than ever, while its average value has risen to £43 per ton. - -Some American scientist has given it as his opinion that the kauri-gum -exported from 1840 to 1880 must have required a forest-growth of ten -thousand years to have produced it; but then we know that scientists -will go making these rash assertions on the very vaguest premises. How -long ago the kauri forests that covered the now open fern-lands died -out, it would be hard to say. And how long they had stood before that -is an equally difficult problem to solve. Of the trees in the forests -now standing we can easily calculate the age. Some of them were already -big trees at the period when Julius Cæsar was colonizing the other -Britain. Doubtless the forests here were pretty much what they are -to-day, when Norman and Saxon and Dane were fighting for the throne. - -Gum-diggers receive an all-round price for the gum they bring down to -the stores, which fluctuates somewhat in amount. It usually averages -about £30 a ton. Before reaching its final market, the gum is cleaned, -picked, and carefully assorted and re-assorted into six or eight -different classes. The very best of these has been known to sell at -£144 per ton in New York; the others at varying prices down to £25 or -£20 for the lowest class. The average price is now £43 per ton. - -The use to which kauri-gum is put is the manufacture of varnish. At -least this is the general theory. It is made into a varnish much -resembling that of copal; and gum copal, as the reader will remember, -is the product of the _Hymenea verrucosa_ of tropical Eastern Africa, -where it is dug from the ground much as kauri-gum is here. - -Varnish-making is the assigned use of kauri-gum, but there is a dark -suspicion afloat in our Brighter Britain that this is not the only -nor the chief one. It is hinted that the Yankees use it to adulterate -something or other with, or to fix up some compound of a wholly -different kind. I will not say that O'Gaygun is solely responsible for -this insinuation, but he certainly fosters it in every way he can. - -In the mind of our Milesian ally there exists a profound belief that -the principal object in life of an American is to invent new and -profitable ways of adulteration, or to discover means of perfecting -colossal shams, and thereby defrauding a guileless public, such as -ourselves. - -For my own part, I disagree with O'Gaygun on this point. Experience -has led me to believe that the English manufacturer and trader -stand unrivalled in all the arts of adulteration. The Yankee is a -babe compared to them at this game. In fact, so far as exports are -concerned, it would seem as if the British merchant could not help a -greater or lesser measure of chicanery. What the Yankee sends to us is -generally good; this in other matters besides hardware. - -But O'Gaygun's views are warped, and his conclusions are mainly drawn -from the remembrance of one incident, the tale of which he is never -weary of narrating. - -It seems that, shortly before he came out to New Zealand, O'Gaygun was -concerned with others in the exportation from Ireland to America of a -certain mineral. It was a heavy, white, glistening earth, which I take -to have been witherite, or carbonate of baryta. - -This stuff was sold ostensibly for paint-making, and certain Yankee -merchants bought up all they could of it. Shipload after shipload went -to America, and the Irish speculators were in high glee as the demand -for it increased; although such a quantity had been shipped as would -have sufficed to have whitewashed the entire two continents. - -At last the real destination of the mineral came to light. It was -powdered and mixed with flour, which America was then exporting largely -to Europe. It made the finest flours heavier, and made seconds rank as -first-class. So, according to O'Gaygun, hundreds and thousands of tons -of this witherite were eaten by cheated Europe in the form of bread. A -whole mountain, so he says, was shipped to the land of the Stars and -Stripes; and as much as was sent came back to Europe as flour. - -When the thing was blown upon, of course, the export gradually -ceased. And I believe that O'Gaygun and his associates were blamed -for participation in the fraud. Therefore he, poor, deluded Irishman, -has ever since held the Yankee to be of very nature iniquitous in all -his dealings. Well, let us hope that kauri-gum is, after all, only an -innocent varnish basis, as is generally stated, and that it is not -eaten as pork or beans or anything by a too-confiding British public. - -The gum-diggers of Northern New Zealand are a peculiar body of -nomads. They are recruited from every nation, and from every rank of -society, and, like the communities gathered together on Australian or -Californian gold-fields, present a strange medley of opposites. - -Among them one may come across men who are graduates of the -universities. One may find members of noble houses, representatives of -historic names; nay, twice I have met men born to titles gum-digging. -Then one may find diggers who should belong to professions they have -abandoned—civil, military, learned, artistic. Clerks, accountants, -secretaries, and shopmen swell the ranks of our Bohemian army. There -are guileless peasants, natives of Norfolk or Devon, France or Germany, -perhaps; and there are runaway sailors, ex-convicts, tinkers, tailors, -printers' devils, pirates, rowdies, negroes, Kanakas, Maoris, Chinamen; -a collection of gentlemen educated to every pursuit under the sun, in -fact. - -Throughout all this heterogeneous assemblage there exists entire -equality, but little fraternization. Each man is as good as his fellow; -there is no recognized line of demarcation between man and man. Yet -gum-diggers are not gregarious as a rule; they are too jealous, each -of another's possible luck, to admit of general brotherhood. Generally -little gangs associate together and work in company; but it is rare -that they do so on communistic principles. More often, each member of -the gang works entirely for his own hand, though they may have food and -so on in common. - -There is precious little feeling of _caste_, or prejudice on account of -different social ranks, remaining to us in this free land. What there -is, however, places gum-diggers, as a class, on the bottommost level -of society. Not that even that distinction conveys any slight upon -individual gum-diggers; it is more a sort of abstract principle, than -anything real or practical. - -Still, they are sneered at occasionally by other colonists. It is a -favourite theory that, if you should see some particularly haughty -swell come out with all the pomp of a first-class passage, some -grandiose creature of the scapegrace-fine-gentleman sort, with such -airs and dignity as befit a man who feels that the colony was made -for him, and not he for the colony, you may chuckle over his probable -descent to gum-digging very soon. You have to get out of his lordly -path while the air of the quarter-deck is round him, feeling that -this humble country is only too much honoured by his mere presence in -it. But, in a few months' time, you come across him on the gum-field, -in ankle-jacks and ragged shirt, picking up a scanty living. He is -Captain Gorgeous Dashabout no longer. - -There is a certain charm about gum-digging, particularly to people of -unsettled and gypsy-like disposition. You have no boss. You can do as -you like; work when you like, and how you like; and lie on your back -when it pleases you to do so, without fear of being rowed at by any -one. Moreover, with ordinary luck, you can make as good wages as by -working on a farm, and that with less actual toil, though possibly some -additional hardship. - -Gum-diggers must be equipped as lightly as possible. It is commonly -said that a blanket, a spade, a gum-spear, a knife, a hatchet, a billy, -a pipe, some provisions and tobacco, together with the clothes he -stands in, constitute all that a gum-digger needs in the way of outfit. -He really cannot afford to possess much more, for he must hump all his -belongings on his own back, over mountain and dale, forest and morass. -This is one reason why small parties associate together, besides for -company. They can then manage to carry a better sufficiency of things -with them from camp to camp. - -Where proximity to a settlement, a road, or a river permits of it, it -is possible for gum-diggers to make their camps pretty comfortable. -Often it is not necessary to move camp for months at a time, when -the surrounding field is pretty rich in gum-holes. But they are not a -provident class, seldom caring for anything beyond the present moment. - -The occupation is simplicity itself. Once the prospecting has been -accomplished and the district determined on, the party move to it as -best they can. Nearly always there is a long tramp through the wilds, -with the necessaries on back and shoulders. Then a camp is formed in -some favourable spot near a stream; a rude hut is constructed of such -material as is at hand; and a store of firewood is cut. - -For work, each man straggles about all day by himself, with his spear -and spade and sack. He tries every likely looking place with the spear, -which is simply an iron rod, sharp at one end, and with a wooden handle -at the other. When the end of the spear touches buried gum, there is a -peculiar clip or "feel," which the digger knows. Then he digs out the -gum, fills his sack, and carries it to camp, continuing to work the -same spot as long as it yields anything, when he goes on to look for -another. In the evenings he scrapes and cleans the day's take with his -knife. - -Sometimes a digger will not get a shilling's worth of gum in a whole -week's work; sometimes he will find five or six pounds' worth in an -hour. Generally speaking, and taking one week with another, he may -earn £2 to £4 a week. When enough has been collected and scraped it -is carried down to the nearest bush-store or settlement, where it is -at once sold. Provisions are bought, and the surplus may be banked, -though, in nine cases out of ten, it goes in a "lush up." Some -gum-diggers save till they can get down to Auckland, and then they have -a high old time of it as long as the money lasts. - -It will be seen how this kind of life appeals to the ne'er-do-well. -Luck and chance are elements in it; and it is a free, roving, -devil-may-care existence. Hence it is that scapegraces take to it so -kindly, and prefer its risks and manifest hardships to the steady work -of farm-labourers or bushmen. - -Gum-diggers seldom make much money. They get a living, and that is -about all. Now and then they may do better, but it only results in a -"burst." Yet gum-digging has often been a great assistance to settlers. -We have taken to it at times, in order to raise a little ready money, -when the farm was not paying. Many a small, needy settler has found -it a resource to stave off ruin. To energetic and industrious men it -offers good wages on the whole, and, as a temporary thing, many such -have taken advantage of it. - -There are even men among the regular gum-diggers who are superior to -their class. These may save all they make, till they have enough to -start a small pioneer-farm, or to set up in some handicraft. Thus, in -spite of the acknowledged evil repute of the gum-digger, there will be -and are, in our Brighter Britain, comfortable homes, whose proprietors -will tell you that they are founded and built upon kauri-gum, so to -speak. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -OUR CLASSIC GROUND. - - -When the history of New Zealand comes to be written, and when a new -generation finds time to look back upon the country's past, that also -having grown with the coming years, a new want will imperceptibly -arise. A desire will develop in people's minds for something to -reverence. Out of the crudest materials will be erected monuments to -the past, and the older these become the more they will be esteemed, -while the events they speak of will come to be regarded as of greater -and greater importance. So it has been with England; so it has been in -America; so it will be in Australia and New Zealand. Nay, already the -first symptoms of the feeling are beginning to appear among us. - -America has gathered all the force of sacred memories round Plymouth -Rock and Bunker Hill, Manhattan and Yorktown, and other places -commemorative of the crises, or romantic episodes, of her history. -So, in like manner, shall our descendants find spots connected with -the long ago, whose tales shall serve to quicken the glow of patriotic -sentiment in their hearts. - -Laugh, reader, if you like. The early events of our history seem so -trivial to you now. You cannot get up any enthusiasm about them, -anyhow. Yet future generations will have another and more generous -feeling. A time will come when crowds of tourists, guide-book in hand, -will rush from southern cities to "do" those quiet places that now -seem utterly forgotten. Take my word for it; that of a man who never -romanced! - -Probably there will be spots of more or less renown scattered up and -down throughout all the country. But the region destined to be most -widely known and justly celebrated, held in high regard from its wealth -of associations with the earliest days of our history, and esteemed -not lightly either for its natural scenery, is that comprised within -the three counties of Bay of Islands, Mongonui, and Hokianga. Already, -even, this is worthy to be named the classic ground of New Zealand. - -Some of our little community in the Kaipara go up into the Bay not -infrequently. We have good friends living up in that part, and we go on -pleasure as well as on business. Dandy Jack is up there oftenest of -any, for he does some trade in those districts in horses and cattle. -One or two of us go to help him, and we have, on certain occasions, -joined land-surveying expeditions, whose head-quarters were in the Bay. -So that, on the whole, we know the three counties tolerably well. - -Our route from here lies through the Maungaturoto bush, and up to -Mangapai and Whangarei, a distance of forty-and-odd miles. Beyond that -is another stretch of about the same distance, before the Kawakawa is -reached. The greater part of the way lies through dense forest, but -there is a track along which it is possible to ride. This is called -a road in these parts, but as the most experienced bushman is apt to -lose it altogether on occasions, its actual character may be guessed. -I believe Dandy Jack did once accomplish the whole journey to the -Kawa-kawa in two days. As a rule, however, it takes us four. The -nature of the track is not adapted for quick riding, so that twenty or -twenty-five miles is about as much as we can make in the day. - -We have to camp out at nights, of course, except the one night we put -up at Whangarei, but this is no uncommon experience for us. There are -some creeks to be crossed that are rather ugly when full of water; one -or two must be swum sometimes. It is a fearful and arduous job to bring -cattle along this road, as might be expected. Some are pretty sure -to be lost out of the drove, while some will get stuck in the mud of -marshes and crossings, and a rare job it is to extricate them. - -Once we had a pack-horse with us, laden with stores and utensils for -a surveyor's camp. He was led with a rope as we rode. Just at one of -the worst parts he broke away and bolted, kicking and bucking as he -went, the result being that the baggage went flying in all directions. -It took us half a day or more to recapture the horse, and to pick up -his scattered load. This will serve to illustrate some of the pleasing -incidents of travel in the bush. - -On one occasion Old Colonial, Dandy Jack, and I were camped somewhere -beyond Whangarei. We were making the journey up to fetch down some -cattle. We were in a little dingle beside a small stream. The huge -fire was blazing merrily in front, lighting up the tree-trunks with -weird effect, and making the shadows of the forest round us seem more -profound. Near by our horses were tethered, and we lay, now our supper -was done, rolled in our blankets, pipes in mouth, and heads pillowed on -our saddles. - -We were talking of some improvements that had been recently effected -in the settlements, and from that we got to speculating on the future. -Dandy Jack was wearily sighing for the good time when there should be -a decent road constructed along this route. - -"Wonder whether I shall live to see it;" he said. - -"Of course you will," replied Old Colonial, who is nothing if not -optimistic in his views. - -"I tell you what; we shall all live to see not only a good road through -this, but farms and settlements and hotels along it!" - -"Bravo!" returned Dandy Jack. "Then I'll start a coach to run from -Kawa-kawa to Whangarei, and on to Mangawai, or across to Te Pahi, -perhaps. Might pick up some trade, don't you think?" - -"I reckon your coach would be a failure, old man," continued Old -Colonial. "I expect to see a railway one of these days, connecting -Auckland with the Bay, and all the places between. Not much room for -your coach then!" - -"Oh, they'll not make a railroad up here this century." - -"I expect they will, though," said our chief, impressively. - -"And, look here! I'll tell you what's going to help make business for -it. The Bay and Hokianga are our classic ground." - -"Classic ground?" - -"Certainly. Here are the places where Captain Cook came, and Tasman, -and all the early voyagers. Here's where the first missionaries -came; where colonization commenced; where British sovereignty was -established. Here's where the history of the early days has got to be -written. Here's where Hongi lived, and Hone Heke after him; where the -first Maori war was fought; where battles were won, and pas stormed, -and treaties signed. This is the most illustrious district in the whole -colony. Whatever memories we've got date from here. I tell you that -streams of tourists will want to come and see these places some day. We -ought to make more of them now than we do." - -So rhapsodized Old Colonial, after a manner that occasionally affects -him, while the forest gleamed redly round us with the reflection of -our camp-fire, and a bittern boomed in mockery and remonstrance from a -neighbouring swamp. I heard Dandy Jack softly murmuring to the trees— - - "Meet nurse for a poetic child; - Land of brown heath and shaggy wood! - Land of the mountain and the flood!" - -And when Old Colonial attempted to continue— - -"If this isn't classic ground, what is, I should like to know? -Posterity will—--" - -Dandy Jack cut him short with a loud declamation from "Locksley -Hall." But I remembered the allusion to classic ground, in spite of -our merriment at the time, and, accordingly, it finds effect in this -chapter. - -The little settlement of Mangapai is much like those we are accustomed -to in the Kaipara. It is situated on a creek and inlet of the Whangarei -Harbour. But the township of Whangarei itself, some eight miles further -north, is in a considerably more advanced stage than anything we can -show. - -The harbour is something like our Kaipara, only of less extent. It -is a considerable inlet of the sea, with Heads at the entrance, some -tidal rivers, and creeks navigable for a short distance. There is -direct communication by sea with Auckland, kept up by means of sundry -schooners and sailing-craft. The large steamer _Iona_, which plies -between Auckland, Bay of Islands, and Mongonui every week, calls at -Whangarei Heads on each trip for passengers. A small steamer plies -within the harbour itself. - -Whangarei township is a remarkably favourable specimen of a bush -settlement. It stands on a river, and is about seventeen miles distant -from the Heads. The little town occupies a flat, rendered very -picturesque by the gardens about the houses, and by a surrounding -amphitheatre of bush-clothed heights. There is a church, hotels, -stores, schools, mills, streets and roads, even a local newspaper, to -bear evidence to the energy and prosperity of the settlers. - -The district round about the Whangarei waters is rich soil for the most -part, mainly covered with bush in its natural condition. Settlement -took place here a good many years before it was begun in the Kaipara, -consequently more improvement has been effected. The pioneer farms and -homesteads show a surprising amount of comfort. They have lots of grass -for pasturage, and two or three thousand acres of plough-lands in the -aggregate as well. - -Then there are two special industries in the place. One is -lime-burning, the product being sent to supply Auckland demands for -it. The other is coal-mining. A mine was opened here some years ago, -and was afterwards flooded and consequently closed, remaining unworked -for some time. It has now again been re-opened, and is in full swing -of work, though the operations are only carried out in a small way -comparatively. - -One would think that the road, so called, connecting two settlements of -such relative importance as Whangarei and Kawa-kawa, would be a better -one than it is. The distance is between forty and fifty miles, and -there is no settlement between. The road is just a track, along which -it is possible to ride and drive cattle. A good part of the way lies -through heavy bush. - -But there is really very little traffic between these places, and what -there is can be best transacted by sea. It is the general fashion in a -country like this. Each settlement requires water-communication with -Auckland, and cares little at present for anything else. A settler -makes a road down to the river, or to the settlement on the river, -sufficient for his own purposes, and as short as possible. That is all -he particularly wants. The necessity for roads between settlements, and -to open up the back-country, only grows gradually with time. Of course -in other parts of the colony, where there is not water everywhere as in -the North, the case is widely different. A good road or a railway is -the first and chief thing needed there. - -At Kawa-kawa we are in the Bay of Islands, and consequently within -the classic ground. Indeed, south-east of Kawa-kawa is the site of -the famous pa of Ruapekapeka, which was a strong native fortress, -constructed with a degree of skill, and science almost, that astonished -military engineers. - -The Kawa-kawa river gives its name to the district. There is a good -deal of settlement and pioneer-farming round here and in Pakaru -district, but the chief industry of the place is coal-mining. A -hundred to a hundred and fifty colliery hands are employed, forming, -with their families, a good nucleus of population. Manganese and cement -are also mined here. - -The seam is twelve and a half feet thick; and the output about three -thousand tons a month. There are some half-dozen miles of railway, -connecting the mine with a suitable shipping-place, near where -the river joins the waters of the bay itself. A fleet of coasters -is constantly employed carrying coal to Grahamstown and Auckland. -Extensive coal-beds exist in many parts of the North, but Whangarei and -Kawa-kawa are the only workings at present. I have seen some carbonized -cocoa-nuts extracted from the Kawa-kawa mine, which prove that the -cocoa-nut palm must once have grown here, though it does not now. - -There is nothing particularly classic about a colliery village, -however, although it may be situated in a primeval solitude, and amid -woodland scenery, where axe and spade are busy converting the wilds -into cultivated farms. The river winds down through grand mountainous -tracts, and then we find ourselves on the bosom of the gloriously -beautiful bay, the most picturesque and most romantic of all places in -the North—more, the home of the first chapters of our history. - -I will not go so far as to say that the Bay of Islands is as lovely as -Sydney Harbour, nor can I allow that it throws certain choice bits of -scenery in the Kaipara and the Hokianga estuaries entirely into the -shade. But it certainly is a most picturesque place. The views are so -varied, so wholly unique; and the stories connected with every corner -of the bay throw such a romantic halo over the whole, that I feel quite -justified in endorsing the opinion that the Bay of Islands is, and -always must be, the most remarkable place in Northern New Zealand. - -The entrance of the bay is guarded by two great rocky headlands, Cape -Wiwiki and Cape Brett. These stand some twelve miles apart, and the -distance from them to the back of the bay is about twenty miles. But -numerous inlets open up into the land, and four considerable creeks, -the Keri-keri, Waitangi, Kawa-kawa, and Waitari fall into the bay, -forming large estuaries at their junction with it. The promontories, -headlands, and indentations of the shores, together with the hundred -islands and islets that thickly stud the waters, diversify the scenery -very much, and cause you to think, as you sail or row between them, -that you are gliding from river into river and from channel into -channel, with broad lake-like reaches interspersed. - -About fifteen miles from Cape Brett, and on the same side of the bay, a -promontory of considerable size juts out. Upon the inner side of this -stands Kororareka, capital of the Bay, and its port of entry. - -Officialism has recently been trying very hard to alter the name of -this place into Russell, which action is much deprecated by settlers, -who insist upon retaining the old native name. The reason for the -proposed change is not very clear, and why this particular town should -have been so singled out is equally inexplicable to the unofficial -mind. It seems to be a great pity, in any case, to bestow such names -as Smithville, or Russell, or New London upon growing settlements, -the future cities of a future nation. It is a pity because they are -not distinctive, nor expressive of the country upon which they are -grafted. How much better to retain the old native names, which carry -with them sound and meaning both original and peculiar. Educated -Americans are beginning to find this out, and to regret the loss of an -indigenous character, which springs from the vulgarity and confusion -of their nomenclature. How much better are such names as Pensacola or -Tallahassee, than New Orleans or New York? - -In New Zealand native names have been very largely retained, though -less so in the south than in the north. But jacks in office are for -ever trying to perpetuate their own names, or those of individuals whom -they toady, by making them do duty for towns or counties or rivers. It -is a "vulgarian atrocity," similar to that which moves a cockney soul -to scratch its ignoble appellative upon pyramid or monolith. - -In this particular instance, it is a positive shame to hurl such an -insulting degradation into our classic ground. Kororareka, under -that name, is the oldest settlement in the colony. It is intimately -associated with early history. Kororareka—"The Beach of Shells"—was -once a native kainga. Then it became a whaling station, and earned -notoriety as a piratical stronghold, and the pandemonium of the -Pacific. From that it was erected into the first capital of the colony, -metropolis and seat of government for all New Zealand, under Mr. Busby, -the British resident, and, in 1840, Captain Hobson, the first governor. -It was plundered and burnt by Heke and Kawiti, and was a central point -of the first Maori war. - -Kororareka is a quiet little village now, and is never likely to -grow into much more, unless it should become a manufacturing centre. -Other places must take the trade of the district eventually. Hence, -Kororareka will always rest its chief claim to note upon its past -history; so to call it Russell is to spoil its little romance. It is -an outrageous vandalism, a nonsensical piece of spite or idiotcy that, -in a philological and sentimental sense, is almost to be regarded as a -crime. - -As you come into sight of Kororareka from the bay, you are favourably -impressed by its appearance. The town stands upon a wide flat, bordered -by a high beach of white shingle and shells, from the centre of which -a large wharf runs out for shipping to come alongside. A street of -houses, stores and hotels principally, faces the beach, and gives the -place all the airs of a miniature Brighton or Margate. Some other -straggling streets run back from this. - -The background is a low grassy range, evidently farm-lands. This range -shuts out all view of the bay on the other side of the promontory. -To the right it merges into the mountain tract that sentinels the -Waitari and Kawa-kawa estuaries. On the left rises an abrupt and wooded -hill, fissured with many romantic little glens and hollows. From this -eminence, to which a road winds up from the town through the woods, a -most magnificent view is obtainable. A great part of the panorama of -this island-studded harbour lies stretched below one's feet; and on the -highest crest is a certain famous flagstaff. - -Kororareka is not very large. The resident population is probably -not more than two or three hundred. Farming industry round it is -comparatively small. Its communication overland with other places is -not good, and the hilly character of the contiguous land presents great -difficulties in the way of the formation of roads. The place depends on -its harbour, which is much used by whalers, who come here to tranship -or sell oil, and to take in supplies. Quiet and dead-alive as it seems -in general, there are times when a number of vessels are assembled -here, and when bustle and business is consequently pretty brisk. - -Before settled government and colonization overtook New Zealand, -this spot had achieved an unsavoury reputation. Originally a native -town, it had gradually become the resort of whaling-ships. Traders -established themselves here, and a rowdy population of runaway sailors, -ex-convicts, bad characters, and debauched Maoris filled the place. -Drunkenness and riot were the general order of things; and it was even -said that Kororareka was developing into a nest of pirates. There was -no sort of government to restrain the evil, and man's passions, as -usual, were transforming a natural Eden into a moral hell. - -During these days of anarchy there is no doubt that Kororareka was a -sad thorn in the side to the missionaries, who were achieving wonderful -results among the native tribes. The wanton profligacy of whites in -Kororareka infected their converts, and interfered sadly with the -Christianizing of the Maoris. Moreover, other places of a like nature -began to spring up here and there on the coasts. - -One would have thought that sober, God-fearing men would have hailed -the establishment of British government, and would have done much to -further colonization. Such, however, was far from being the idea or -action of the early missionaries. So far as the missionaries in New -Zealand were themselves concerned, they would seem to have turned a -very cold shoulder to such of their countrymen as adventured thither, -independently of the missions. So we are informed by one or two -travellers who visited the country between 1814 and 1840. Nor is this -feeling at all to be wondered at, considering the class of men who came -to Kororareka. The European adventurers who came to New Zealand then -were so generally of a loose and lawless order, that it is scarcely -matter for surprise that missionaries should have looked askance at -every white man they saw. - -This feeling spread to the Societies at home in England, and was, -doubtless, much exaggerated among their more zealous, but less -large-minded supporters. It became mingled with a desire to preserve -New Zealand for its aboriginal race; to convert and civilize that -people; and to foster their self-government under the direct influence -of the missionaries. And it must be borne in mind that the missionaries -were really unacquainted with the extent of the country, and with the -actual number of its native inhabitants; while people in England had -very vague ideas regarding their antipodes. - -A party was formed in England, which has been styled "the Exeter Hall -party." The persons adhering to its views did all in their power to -prevent English colonization, or English government being established -in New Zealand. The merits of the question as between them and their -opponents need not concern us now. - -The existence of such a place as Kororareka was felt to be a curse to -the whole of the South Sea, and did not fail to affect even Sydney, -two thousand miles away. There were not wanting some to press upon -the Imperial Government the necessity of annexation and of active -steps being taken. The Exeter Hall party, however, frustrated their -endeavours, actuated thereto by motives that time has shown to have -been founded on miscomprehension and mistake. - -Guided by the Exeter Hall influence, and by representations made by the -missionaries, the Imperial Government took a decided step in 1835. They -recognized New Zealand as independent, treated with a confederation -of Maori chiefs, and bestowed a national flag upon the country, thus -forfeiting the claim acquired from Captain Cook's original discovery. -Mr. Busby was appointed to be British resident at Kororareka; as, -however, he had no force to act with, he was unable to preserve order -in that place, and he had neither influence nor power wherewith to -uphold the dignity of his office and of the country he represented. - -Persons in England who had been desirous of seeing New Zealand -converted into an appanage of the British crown, covered their -disappointment by forming an association, styled "The New Zealand -Company," much upon the basis of the old East Indian Company. They -proceeded to form settlements upon a system of their own; a pioneering -expedition being sent out in 1839, and the first body of emigrants -landing at Port Nicholson in 1840. Their action, together with the -outcry caused by the condition of things at Kororareka, caused the -Imperial Government to reverse its former policy. - -Another circumstance operated to hasten the Government's decision. -French Roman Catholic missions had been established in New Zealand, -and were gaining many converts among the Maoris. In 1837 a French -nobleman, one Baron de Thierry, purchased a large area in Hokianga, -and sought to establish himself there as a sovereign prince. Then the -French Government prepared to annex the islands as a possession of -France. - -In January, 1840, Captain Hobson arrived at Kororareka in command of -H.M.S _Rattlesnake_, instructed to hoist the British standard, which -he only succeeded in doing a few hours before a French ship arrived -for a similar purpose. Captain Hobson at once found a staunch ally in -the person of Tamati Waka, a powerful Ngapuhi chief. By this man's -influence the Christianized chiefs of the North were gathered together, -and induced to sign the famous Treaty of Waitangi, on March 5, 1840. -That instrument is the title-deed of the colony. It was the formal -cession of sovereignty to Queen Victoria, by the principal men of the -Maori nation. - -The missionaries have been severely criticized for the policy and -line of action adopted by them, and by the Exeter Hall party at -home. Doubtless much might be said on either side, were it in any -way desirable to reopen a somewhat bitter controversy. One thing is -certain, that nowhere, and at no time, have missionaries of the Church -of England, and of the Wesleyan body, found their labours followed -by more signal success than in New Zealand; and the zeal, fortitude, -and high-souled devotion of the pioneers of the gospel in our Brighter -Britain, must surely win the admiration of even the enemies of -Christianity. - -Not far from Cape Wiwiki, on the northern shore of the Bay of Islands, -and half a day's sail away from Kororareka, is a spot of great -interest. Sheltered within high craggy headlands, and shut out from the -open bay by a rocky and bush-clothed island, is a bright and peaceful -little cove. There are but few signs of life here; the place looks -almost deserted. A couple of houses are visible, divided by rising -ground; and a farm lies round them, bounded by hills wearing the -evergreen verdure of the forest. - -Walking about this farm, you perceive that it is not of very great -extent—a hundred acres or so, probably. But you are at once struck -with something that is strange to you, after the pioneer homesteads of -the Kaipara. The turf is old and smooth, the fields are drained and -level, the ditches are embanked, the hedges full-grown and thick, the -imported trees are in maturity. Everything denotes that this is no new -clearing. Abundant evidence is all around to testify to the truth of -what the hospitable farmer will tell you, namely, that the cultivation -here is sixty years old. - -This place is Te Puna, ever to be renowned as the site of the first -mission, established here by the Rev. Samuel Marsden, in 1814. - -The incentives those early missionaries had to go to New Zealand were -certainly not of an engaging kind. They knew that the natives were -a fierce and bloodthirsty set of savages, that they were constantly -at war among themselves, and were addicted to cannibalism. Although -some few individuals had visited Sydney, and seemed tractable -enough, assuring Mr. Marsden of their good will and power to protect -missionaries, yet there was no sort of certainty. The Maoris were known -to be badly disposed to strangers, on the whole, and many stories of -their treachery were current. Since Marion du Fresne, with fifteen men, -was killed by Maoris in the Bay of Islands, there had been various -instances of a similar kind. Only a year or two before, the ship _Boyd_ -had been seized in Whangaroa Harbour, and her company, numbering fifty -persons, had been butchered and eaten. - -With these facts before their minds to encourage them, Marsden and his -brave companions went unhesitatingly into what must have seemed the -very jaws of death, resolved to sow the gospel seed in this virgin -wild. In December, 1814, the Revs. Marsden, Kendall, King, and Nicholas -landed here at Te Puna. Public worship was held here for the first time -on Christmas Day. - -At that period there was a large population on the shores and islands -of the bay, which has since disappeared or moved elsewhere, for the -most part. There would seem to have been a considerable kainga either -at or near Te Puna. Here, therefore, land was bought, houses and a -church of some kind put up, and the mission duly inaugurated. One of -the missionaries was actually accompanied by his wife, and she gave -birth to a son shortly after they landed. He was the first white man -born in New Zealand, and he still resides near the bay, with other -families descended from the same parents. Some of us have often -partaken of their hospitality. - -There is no mission at Te Puna now, and only the two households for -population, but the original mission continued there a good many -years. Soon after its origination, another station was opened on the -Keri-keri river, about twenty miles from Te Puna. Here there is a stone -block-house, which was erected for defence, if necessary. It is now -used as a store. There is besides a most comfortable homestead, the -residence of a family descended from one of the early missionaries. -It is a very pleasant spot, with all the air of an English country -grange, save and except that block-house, and other mementoes of the -past that our hospitable hosts have been pleased to show us. - -Some miles along the shore of the bay, from the point where the -Keri-keri estuary opens from it, we come to Paihia, at the mouth of -the Waitangi. This is directly opposite to Kororareka, from which -it is five or six miles distant. Just down the shore is a villa -residence, and one or two other houses, indicating the farm of a -wealthy settler. A splendidly situated home that, with its glorious -view over the picturesque bay, its surrounding gardens and orchards, -and its background of woods and mountains. Here was where the first -printing-press in New Zealand was set up. - -Near by, but opening upon the Waitangi rather than on the bay, is a -deep, dark glen. At the bottom of it, and filling the lower ground, -are the wharès and cultivations of a good-sized Maori kainga. There -are some frame-houses, too, which show how civilized our brown -fellow-subjects are becoming. And from here we can row up the winding -Waitangi river to another point of interest. - -Some miles above, the influx of the tides is stopped by high falls, -just as it also is in the Keri-keri river, close to the old station. -Waitangi Falls is the port for all the inland country on this side. -There is a young settlement here, and the place is remarkable for being -the spot where the famous treaty was signed. Moreover, the falls are -well worth looking at. - -One of the most interesting stories relating to the Bay of Islands is -that of the first Maori war, which was waged around it from 1845 to -1847. It has been related often enough, and I can only find room for -some very brief details. Such as they are, they are mostly gathered -from the oral narrations of eye-witnesses, both English and Maori, -whose testimony I feel more inclined to believe than that of some -printed accounts I have seen. - -Hone Heke was the leader of one of the sections into which the great -Ngapuhi tribe had split after the death of the celebrated Hongi Hika, -who expired March 5, 1828. Captain Hobson's friend, Tamati Waka, -was chief of another section; while Kawiti, another chief, headed a -third. These persons were then paramount over pretty nearly the whole -region lying between Mongonui and the Kaipara. They had been among -the confederate chiefs whom the British Government recognized as -independent in 1835; and their signatures were, subsequently to that, -attached to the Treaty of Waitangi. - -Shortly after the proclamation of New Zealand as a British possession, -Governor Hobson, seeing that Kororareka was unsuited for a metropolis, -removed the seat of government to the Waitemata, and there commenced a -settlement which is now the city of Auckland. Order had been restored -in the former place, but its importance and its trade now fell away. - -The Ngapuhi had some grievances to put up with. The trade of the Bay -was much lessened; import duties raised the price of commodities; while -the growing importance of Auckland gave advantages to the neighbouring -tribes, the Ngatitai, Ngapaoa, Waikato, and Ngaterangi, which the -Ngapuhi of the Bay of Islands had formerly monopolized. It needed but -little to foment the discontent of a somewhat turbulent ruler such as -Hone Heke. - -In the year 1844 this chief, visiting Kororareka, and probably venting -his dissatisfaction at the new regime pretty loudly, was incited by -certain of the bad characters, who had previously had it all their -own way in the place. They taunted him with having become the slave -of a woman, showing him the flag, and explaining that it meant his -slavery to Queen Victoria, together with all Maoris. In such a way they -proceeded to work up his feelings, probably without other intention -than to take a rise out of the Maori's misconception of the matter. - -Hone Heke took the thing seriously. He said that he did not consider -himself subject to any one. He was an independent chief, merely in -alliance with the British, and had signed the Treaty of Waitangi in -expectation of receiving certain rewards thereby, which it appeared had -been changed into penalties. As for the flag, if that was an emblem of -slavery, a Pakeha fetish, or an insult to Maoridom, it was clear that -it ought to be removed, and he was the man to do it. - -Accordingly, he and his followers then present, marched at once up the -hill above Kororareka, and cut down the flagstaff that had been set -up there. Then they withdrew quietly enough. The settlers were much -disconcerted, having no means of coercing Heke, and not knowing to what -this might lead. However, they set the flagstaff up again. - -Hone Heke appeared once more with his band, this time in fierce anger. -They cut down the restored flagstaff, and either threw it into the -sea, or burnt it, or carried it off. Heke also threatened to destroy -Kororareka if any attempt was made to fly the British flag again. - -H.M.S. _Hazard_ now came up from Auckland, where considerable -excitement agitated the young settlement. The flagstaff was again -restored, and, this time, a small block-house was built round it, which -was garrisoned by half a dozen soldiers. - -Now, Hongi Hika, previous to his death, had enjoined a certain policy -upon his successors. He had told them never to make war upon such -Pakeha as came to preach, to farm, or to trade. These were not to be -plundered or maltreated in any way. They were friends whose presence -could only tend to the advantage of the Maori. But the English -sovereign kept certain people whose only business was to fight. They -might be known by the red coats they wore, and by having stiff necks -with a collar round them. "Kill these wherever you see them," said -Hongi; "or they will kill you." - -So Hone Heke sent an ultimatum into Kororareka, to the effect that, -on a certain specified day, he should burn the town, cut down the -flagstaff, and kill the soldiers. The attack was fixed for night, and -it came with exact punctuality. Most of the inhabitants took refuge -on board the _Hazard_ and some other craft then lying in the harbour; -while these prepared to guard the beach from a canoe attack. Captain -Robertson of the _Hazard_, with some forty marines and blue-jackets, -aided also by a party of settlers, took up a position on the landward -side of the town. - -Hone Heke's own mind seems to have principally been occupied with -the flagstaff. The main attack he left to Kawiti, who had joined -him, with five hundred men. Heke himself, with a chosen band, crept -round unperceived through the bush, and lay in wait near the top of -the flagstaff hill, in a little dingle, which is yet pointed out to -visitors. Here they lay for some hours, awaiting the signal of Kawiti's -attack upon the town below. While in this position, Heke kept his men -quiet by reading the Bible to them, expounding the Scriptures as he -read; for all these Ngapuhi, whether friends or foes, were professed -Christians at that period. - -By-and-by, the sound of firing and shouting in the town, together with -the blazing of some of the houses, attracted the attention of the -soldiers in the little block-house round the flagstaff. Unsuspecting -any danger close at hand, they came out on to the hill, the better to -descry what was doing below. Then Heke's ambush sprang suddenly up, -and rushed between them and the open door of the block-house, thus -capturing it, and either killing or putting the startled soldiers to -flight instantaneously. - -Meanwhile a furious battle was taking place in Kororareka. Captain -Robertson and his small force were outflanked and driven in upon the -town, fighting bravely and desperately. But the numbers of the Maoris -were too great for them to contend with, and Robertson, with half his -men, was killed, the rest escaping with difficulty to the ships. Then -the victorious assailants rushed upon the devoted settlement, speedily -joined by Heke's band on the opposite side. The stores and houses -were plundered and set on fire, and soon Kororareka was a charred and -smoking heap of ruins, only the two churches being left absolutely -untouched. This was the first engagement during the war, and was a -decided success for the rebels. The fall of Kororareka took place March -11, 1845; Heke having first cut down the flagstaff in July of the -previous year. - -The news reached Auckland a day or two later, and something like a -panic occurred there. The settlers were armed and enrolled at once, and -the place prepared for defence; for it was said that Heke and Kawiti -had determined to destroy that settlement as well. Had they been able -to march upon it then, it is possible that their attack could not have -been successfully withstood, so limited were means of defence at that -time. - -But Tamati Waka, the stout-hearted friend of the British, led out his -section of the Ngapuhi at once, and took up arms against their kinsmen -under Heke. He prevented the rebels from leaving their own districts, -and thus saved Auckland, allowing time for reinforcements to reach -New Zealand, and so for the war to be carried into Heke's own country. -All through the campaign he did efficient service on our behalf, -contributing much to the final establishment of peace. - -Tamati Waka Nene, to give him his full name, had been a savage -cannibal warrior in the days of Hongi. On one occasion then he had -led a taua, or war-party, of the Ngapuhi far to the south of Hauraki -Gulf, destroying and literally "eating-up" a tribe in the Kati-kati -district. Subsequently, he embraced Christianity and civilization, but -it is evident that the old warrior spirit was strong in him to the -last. He was an extremely sagacious and intelligent politician, fully -comprehending the advantages that must accrue to his race from British -rule. He enjoyed a government pension for some years after the war, -and, when he died, a handsome monument was erected over his remains -in Kororareka churchyard. It stands not far from where bullet and -axe-marks in the old fence still show the spot where Robertson fell. - -When Heke found himself pledged to war, he sent intimations to all the -settlers living about Waimate, Keri-keri, and the north of the bay, -mostly missionary families. He said he had no quarrel with them, and -would protect their persons and property if they would trust him. Some -remained, and some took refuge in Auckland. Those who stayed were never -in any way molested; Heke kept his word to them to the letter. But of -those who fled he allowed his men to pillage the farms and houses, by -way of utu for not believing him. - -As soon as the authorities were in a position to do so, a strong -force was sent into the Bay district, to operate in conjunction with -Tamati Waka's men in putting down the insurrection. Three engagements -were fought, resulting in advantage to the British. The rebels were -then besieged in the fortified pa of Ohaeawae, some twenty-five miles -inland. No artillery had been brought up, and the consequence was that -our troops were repulsed from before this pa again and again, with -severe loss. But the victory was too much for the rebels, who suffered -considerably themselves, and ran short of ammunition. One night they -silently evacuated the place, which was entered next day by the -British, and afterwards destroyed. Very similar experiences followed -shortly after at the pa of Okaehau. - -Finally, in 1847, the insurgents were beleaguered in the pa of -Ruapekapeka, situated near the Waitari river. This they considered -impregnable, and it was indeed magnificently defended with earthworks -and palisades, arranged in such a manner as to excite the wonder and -admiration of engineers. A model of it was subsequently made and sent -home. - -Some artillery had now been got up, with immense labour and difficulty -owing to the rugged character of the ground. These guns were brought to -bear upon the pa. But the Maoris had hung quantities of loose flax over -the palisades, which fell into place again after the passage of a ball, -and hid the breach it had made. Thus the besiegers could not tell what -they had effected, while the defenders were enabled to repair the gaps -unseen. - -The pa was taken in rather a curious way. It happened that no -engagement had been fought on a Sunday, and the rebels, being earnest -Christians, and having—as Maoris have to this day—a respect for the -Sabbath, more exaggerated than that of the Scots even, concluded that -an armistice was a matter of course. When Sunday morning came, they -went out of the pa at the back to hold worship after their manner. -Tamati Waka's men, perceiving this, conquered their own Sabbatical -leanings, and, finding an opening, rushed into the pa, followed by the -British troops. The disconcerted worshippers attempted to retake the -pa, but were speedily routed and scattered. - -This event terminated the war. The insurgents were broken and -disheartened, their numbers reduced, their strongholds captured, and -their ammunition exhausted. They soon all laid down arms and sued for -pardon. Ever since, all the sections of the rebel tribe have been -perfectly peaceable, and take pride in the epithet earned by Tamati -Waka's force, "the loyal Ngapuhi," which is now to be applied to the -entire tribe. - -This first Maori war presents some considerable contrasts to those -which had afterwards to be waged with other tribes, in Wellington, -Nelson, Taranaki, and Waikato. It was characterized by humanity on both -sides, and by an approach to the usages of conflict between civilized -peoples. The Ngapuhi had had the missionaries among them longer than -any other tribe, and had benefited greatly from their teaching. Some -barbarity they still showed, perhaps, but their general conduct was -widely different from what it would have been twenty or thirty years -before. - -At the attack on Kororareka, a woman and several other fugitives were -made prisoners. They were treated kindly, and next day Hone Heke sent -them on board the ships in the harbour. A settler informed me that -he was once conveying wounded soldiers in a bullock-dray, from the -front at Ohaeawae down to the bay. On the road, a party of Heke's men -suddenly appeared out of the bush and surrounded them. They were quite -friendly, however, grounding their arms for a sociable smoke and chat. -They counted the wounded soldiers, giving them fruit, and assisting -at the passage of a dangerous creek. At parting, they merely reminded -the soldiers that if they came back they would be killed, as they, the -rebels, intended to kill or drive away all the red-coats. - -Waimate is the most important centre to the north of the Bay of -Islands; it lies about ten miles inland from Waitangi Falls. The roads -from Waitangi to Waimate, to Ohaeawae and Okaehau, are really good. A -buggy might even be driven along them with perfect ease. Only, between -Waitangi and Waimate there is a formidable creek, the bridge over -which is continually being swept away by floods. Then one must cross -by a difficult and shifting ford, and, if the creek be full, it may be -necessary to swim one's horse over, as once happened to me, I remember. - -On proceeding inland in this district, the ground loses its ruggedness. -It is not flat, exactly, but it is only gently undulating, and not -so violently broken as in most other parts of the north. The soil is -volcanic, the ground mostly open, and much of it splendidly fertile, -like that of the Bay of Naples. There are extinct craters and old lava -streams here and there; but there has been no evidence of activity in -them within the memory of man or of Maori tradition. The district of -active volcanoes, solfataras, hot-springs, geysers, and so on, lies -beyond the limits of the Land of the Kauri altogether. - -Waimate was settled by the early missionaries. It includes lands -held by the representatives of three parent Societies. It is a large -village, composed of residences that may well be termed villas. Nearly -all the inhabitants belong to missionary families, and they form a sort -of little aristocracy here to themselves. There is a kind of old-world -air about the place: it seems to be standing still while the rest of -New Zealand is progressing fast and furiously around it. The people -are the soul of kindly hospitality, but they are a little exclusive -from the very fact of having lived here all their lives, and of having -seen but little of the outside world. For the same reason, and because -new settlers do not come up, owing to the land not being readily -obtainable, they are somewhat averse from movement, and inclined to jog -along in a settled groove. - -I know of no place in the colony that presents such a striking -resemblance to a quiet, stick-in-the-mud, rural locality of the old -country. The Europeans are the gentry, and the Maoris round might pose -as the rest of the population. - -There is a handsome church at Waimate, but there is no hotel, though -there are very good ones at Waitangi and Ohaeawae. There are yards and -pens to accommodate a horse, cattle, sheep, and pig-market, which is -held here at regular intervals. Waimate is a great farming centre, some -of the lands about it having been under the plough for fifty years; -still, it is a trifle backward in its modes, the farmers not striving -to make a pile, but being content to keep themselves in competence. -This may also be esteemed a central point of modern Maori civilization. - -There are a number of young families growing up at Waimate, amid the -softening influences of its homely refinement. Among them are an -unusual number of young ladies. Whatever may be the faults of the -place, with regard to its lack of energy and backwardness in farming -industry, it redeems them all by the abundant crop of first-class -British rosebuds it is raising for the delectation of hungry bachelors. - -Well do I remember, once, Dandy Jack rejoining a party of us, who were -up at Kawa-kawa on business. There was such a look of beatified content -upon his face, that we all exclaimed at it. He told us he had been -stopping at a house where there were ten lovely girls, between the ages -of fourteen and twenty-six. He had come to bring us an invitation to -go and visit there, too. Within half an hour every horse was saddled, -and every individual of us, having completed his most killing toilette, -was on the road to this bush-nursery of Beauty! - -Six or eight miles from Waimate we come to Ohaeawae, a place of very -great interest. The most conspicuous object is the beautiful church, -whose tall spire mounts from a rising ground in the centre of the -settlement. That church occupies the very site of the old pa, and, what -is more, it was built entirely at the expense, and partly by the actual -labour, of the very Maoris who fought the British here in Heke's war. - -With the exception of the principal store and hotel, and possibly of -one or two other houses near, Ohaeawae is a Maori town. A few miles -further along the road is yet another straggling settlement, whose name -I forget, and all is mainly Maori. These natives here are even further -ahead than we are in the Kaipara. They have good frame-houses in all -styles of carpentering; they have pastures fattening their flocks and -herds and droves; they have their ploughs and agricultural machinery; -and fields of wheat, potatoes, maize, and what not. They use the -telegraph and the post-office for business or pleasure; they have their -own schools, police, and handicrafts of various kinds. In short, as a -body, they seem quite as much civilized as if they were white instead -of brown. I suppose that, round Ohaeawae and Okaehau and Waimate, the -Maori may be seen in the highest state of advancement to which he has -anywhere attained. But more of him anon. - -Between these settlements and the Hokianga waters, the roads become -more inchoate again, and one passes through wild land, which gets more -and more covered with bush as one proceeds. Hokianga, though it has -its history of the early days, in common with the Bay, is far behind -it in progress. In fact, Hokianga is a long way less forward than the -Kaipara, and there are very few settlers in it. Its principal features -are steep and lofty ranges, and a rich luxuriance of forest. The -scenery is magnificent. - -Winding along down the Waima or Taheke rivers, no eye so dull but must -admire the glorious woodland beauties around. Soft green willows sweep -the waters, and hide the banks below their foliage like some natural -jalousie. Above is a bewildering thicket of beauty. Ferns, fern-trees, -fern-creepers, every variety of frond, mingled with hanging masses of -white star-flower, pohutukawa trees one blaze of crimson, trees and -shrubs of a hundred varieties. And above tower lofty ranges, covered -to the topmost summit with dense impenetrable woods, sparkling and -gleaming with a thousand tints in the brilliant sunshine and clear -atmosphere. - -As the boat travels down the stream, teal and wild-duck splash and -glide and scuttle and fly before it. The wild birds of the bush, that -some will have it are becoming extinct, are here to be seen in greater -numbers than anywhere else I know of. Those rare green and scarlet -parrots tumble and shriek on the summits of the trees, while the large -purple sultana-ducks peep forth occasionally. - -Here and there some vista opens, disclosing a little Maori kainga, -or the house and clearing of a settler, who thinks more, perhaps, of -living amidst such natural beauty than of making a prosaic pile in any -less attractive spot. I love the Kaipara, and I am in honour bound to -deem Te Puke Tapu on the Arapaoa the acme and perfection of woodland -glory—but, in the Hokianga, splendid and magnificent, one forgets -other places. - -Take that gorge of the main estuary, for example, just above Wirineki, -where the Iwi Rua raises its wild peaks, and sends its tremendous -shoulders with their ridgy backs and dark ravines, all clothed in -overwhelming wealth of forest, rushing down to the blue water. What can -one say but that it is simply sublime! As Wales is to Scotland, so is -this to the Yosemite. - -There is but little industry in Hokianga. There are some sawmills, but -they are comparatively small, and do not add very largely to our timber -trade. There are some farms, but they, too, are small and doing little. -There are schools, but their work is limited. - -The principal settlement is Hurd's Point, to which place a steamer -comes from the Manukau once a fortnight. It is claimed here that -this is actually the oldest settlement in New Zealand, prior even -to Kororareka. A man named Hurd came here early in the century, and -established a store for trade with the Maoris; sailing vessels from -Sydney occasionally communicating with him. - -The Point is about sixteen miles from the Heads. There are somewhere -about a dozen good houses, two hotels and stores. A gentleman who lives -here has even more manifold occupations than our Mayor of Te Pahi. But -the population of this, and of the district generally, is mainly Maori, -or Maori half-breed. One can trace in Hokianga some reminiscences of -the French invasion, of Baron Thierry, and of the Pikopo, as the Maoris -term the Roman Catholic mission. - -While the civilization of the Maoris has advanced further here and at -Ohaeawae than it has almost anywhere else, it is curious that some very -primitive kaingas lie to the north of Hokianga. I suppose that nowhere -in the North could you find places where there is less of Pakeha -civilization and more of ancient Maori manners, than in one or two of -these. They are completely secluded, and have scarcely any intercourse -with strangers. - -At these places I have been hospitably entertained, in true Maori -fashion, and have found a large amount of genial, kindly friendliness. -Some of the elders had not forgotten Heke's war, in which they had -taken part. It seemed to them to be an event of yesterday only. They -spoke of it as of something amusing, a good joke on the whole, and -without any apparent feeling that there had been anything serious in it. - -Yet these people questioned me eagerly about Akarana (Auckland), and -things among the Pakeha. I rose into immense dignity among them because -I had seen and could describe Te Kwini (the Queen), Te Pirinti Weri -(the Prince of Wales), Te Pirintiti Weri (the Princess of Wales), and -Te Pikanini (the young princes and princesses). All the inhabitants -of the kainga, men, women, and children, gathered round the fire in -front of my wharè to hear what I had to tell them. There was no end to -their questions, and a sort of rapturous excitement spread among them -as I dilated on the subject of our royal family. I think it would be -no difficult thing to raise a Maori legion for foreign service. And I -am quite sure that nowhere, in all the realm upon which the sun never -sets, has Queen Victoria more devoted and enthusiastic subjects than -she has among her "loyal Ngapuhi." - - * * * * * - -Such is a brief, a very brief account of our most interesting region, -crammed as it is with mementoes of the past, that will grow dearer -and more valued to this country as time recedes from them. I have but -glanced at some prominent features. It would take a volume or two to -contain all that might be written. - -But when that railway which Old Colonial talks of is completed, -I intend to write a guide-book to the three counties, with full -historical details. It ought to be a good spec., you know, when crowds -of tourists are rushing to "do" our classic ground! - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -MAORI MANNERS. - -I. - - -Old Colonial says that no book about Northern New Zealand, past or -present, would be complete without some special reference to Maori -manners. So, with his larger experience to aid me, I am going to try -and depict them, in brief and to a limited extent. Perhaps the best way -to begin is by sketching the early history of the race, so far as it -is known. Also, we will be pedantic for the nonce, and such words of -the native tongue as are used shall be free from European corruptions. -Thus, to begin with, there being no "s" in the language, which only -consists of fourteen letters, and no plural termination, Maori (pr. -_mowry_) stands for either one or many, and Pakeha (white man, -stranger, pr. _Pah-kay-hah_) signifies either the singular or plural -number.[2] - -[2] See _Pronunciation of Maori Names_, in the Appendix. - -The Maori are a Turanian race, belonging to the Polynesian family of -the Malay branch. According to their own traditions, they came to New -Zealand from some island in the South Sea, known to them as Hawaiiki. -Probably they had migrated in the first instance from the Malay -Peninsula. A certain number of large canoes landed the pilgrim fathers -of the race on the shores of Ahinamaui,[3] the names of which are -remembered, each of the tribes tracing its ancestry to one. The date -of this incursion is reckoned to have been about A.D. 1400; -the calculation being arrived at by comparison of certain genealogical -tally-sticks kept among the tribes. - -[3] The North Island. - -The Maori would seem to have degenerated from some more civilized -condition, as is evidenced by the remains among them of astronomical -knowledge, and of a higher political constitution, the basis of which -is discoverable in their institution of the tapu. They brought with -them to New Zealand the kumera (sweet potato), the taro (bread-root), -the hue (gourd), the seeds of the koraka tree, the dog, the pukeko -(swamp-hen), and one or two of the parrot tribe. They found in New -Zealand an aboriginal race of men, inferior to themselves. They also -found several species of gigantic birds, called by them moa, and by -naturalists _Dinornis_, _Aptornis_, and _Palapteryx_. - -The Maori, of course, made war upon both man and bird, the latter for -food from the first, and the former probably for the same purpose -eventually. They had succeeded in exterminating both before Europeans -had a chance of making acquaintance with them. Bones of the moa are -frequently found, and, till recently, it was believed that living -specimens existed in the recesses of forest and mountain. But of the -aboriginal race no trace remains, unless, as some have thought, there -be an admixture of their blood in the few Maori of Otago and Stewart -Island. - -New Zealand was discovered by Abel Jan van Tasman, in 1642, to whom -it owes its name—a name, by the way, that may one day be changed to -Zealandia, perhaps, just as New Holland has become Australia, and Van -Diemen's Land, Tasmania. The natives received the Dutch navigator with -hostility, massacring a boat's crew. He, therefore, drew off and left, -merely coasting for a short distance. No one else visited the country -until 1769, when Cook arrived in it for the first time. - -Captain Cook was likewise received with hostility by the Maori, on his -first landing in Poverty Bay. But afterwards, in the Bay of Plenty, -Mercury Bay, and the Bay of Islands, he met with better treatment, -and was able to establish friendly relations with certain tribes. He -spent altogether nearly a year in New Zealand, between 1769 and 1777, -in which last year he left for Hawaii, to meet his death there in -Kealakekua Bay. He circumnavigated the islands, which had previously -been supposed to form part of a great Antarctic continent. He also -bestowed upon the Maori the pig and the potato, and has left us some -still interesting accounts of what he observed in the country. - -Subsequently to Cook's last visit, and in the intervals between his -voyages, other explorers touched here. De Lunéville, De Surville, -Crozet, D'Urville, and Du Fresne, the French navigators, followed in -the footsteps of Tasman and Cook. Then, too, whalers began to call -along the coasts; and, by-and-by, traders from Sydney adventured hither -for timber, and flax (_phormium_), and pigs, and smoked heads. But it -was a risky thing in those days to do business with the Maori. Any -fancied slight or injury was resented most terribly. Several ships were -lost altogether, their crews being butchered and eaten; while boats' -crews and individual mariners were lost by others. - -In 1772, Du Fresne, with fifteen of his men, was killed in the Bay of -Islands. He had aroused the wrath of the natives by trespassing on tapu -ground; and they also avenged on him an action of De Lunéville's, who -had rashly put a chief in irons. In 1809, the ship _Boyd_ was taken in -Whangaroa Harbour, and all her company killed, because the captain had -flogged a Maori thief. Again, in 1816, we hear of the American brig -_Agnes_ meeting with a similar fate in Poverty Bay, or thereabouts. - -From the end of last century down to 1840, a few individual white -men took up their residence among the Maori here and there. These -Pakeha-Maori, as they are called, were runaway sailors, or such as -had been shipwrecked or made prisoners, or were wild, adventurous -characters who preferred the savage life to the restraints of -civilization. They married Maori women, raised families, and conformed -to all the native customs, sometimes becoming chiefs and leaders in -war. When some fitful intercourse was established with Sydney, these -men were the medium of trade, and achieved immense importance in that -way. It soon became the fashion among the chiefs of tribes for each to -have his own special Pakeha-Maori. Force was sometimes resorted to to -obtain these men. They were captured and compelled to remain, while -wars between rival tribes were conducted for the possession of them. -Rutherford, a survivor of the _Agnes_, was one such. His experiences -of twelve years' residence among the Maori are recorded in Lord -Brougham's compilation. Judge Maning has related the tale of another, -at a somewhat later date. - -In 1814, as has been elsewhere mentioned, the Rev. Samuel Marsden, -together with some other missionaries, landed in the Bay of Islands; -and from that event, New Zealand's real history may be said to commence. - -The story of Marsden's interest in New Zealand is not without a certain -romantic element. He was chaplain to the Government of New South Wales. -At Sydney he had many opportunities of hearing of New Zealand, and of -the terrible race of fighting man-eaters who inhabited it. Traders -spoke freely of all they knew, and the barbarities, treacheries, and -fearful deeds of the Maori, much exaggerated, no doubt, were matters of -common report. Moreover, individual Maori sometimes shipped as sailors -on board the vessels that touched on their coasts; and so Marsden was -able to judge of the character of the race from the actual specimens he -saw. We may be sure that he was favourably impressed by their evident -superiority in every way to the black aborigines of Australia. - -Marsden was in England in 1809, and there he vainly endeavoured to -awaken sympathy on behalf of the Maori, and to persuade the Christian -public to make effort for their help. On his return, he noticed, among -the sailors of his ship, a coloured man, very sick and dejected. Him -he made acquaintance with, finding him to be Ruatara, a Maori of the -chieftain rank, belonging to the Ngapuhi tribe. - -Ruatara had had an eventful time of it. In 1805, when a mere lad of -eighteen, he had shipped on board a whaler, hoping thereby to see -something of the world. In her he was treated badly, being marooned on -a desert island for some months, and eventually brought back again to -New Zealand, without more experience than a whaling cruise in the South -Sea could give him. - -But, nothing daunted by these vicissitudes, he again shipped on board -a whaler, and in her was carried to London. This was the acme of his -desires, for his great idea was to see King George. But, all the time -the ship lay in dock, Ruatara was scarcely allowed to go on shore, -even, and was not permitted to carry his wishes into execution. He -appears to have been brutally ill-treated, and was finally turned -over to a convict ship, the _Ann_, bound for Port Jackson. On board -of her Marsden sailed, and saw and took this forlorn wretch, ill and -disappointed, under his protection. - -Arrived in Sydney, Marsden took Ruatara to his own house, and kept him -there as his guest for some months, doing his best, meanwhile, we may -be sure, to enlighten the mind of the barbarian whom Providence had -thrown in his way. Finally, he took means to send Ruatara home to his -own country. - -The Church Missionary Society, stirred by Marsden's representations, at -last sent out a missionary party. But on their arrival in Sydney the -members of it hesitated about venturing to New Zealand—the affair of -the _Boyd_, and similar deeds, being just then fresh in the colonial -mind. Marsden, however, was not to be daunted. - -In 1814 he sent a vessel to the Bay of Islands, loaded with useful -presents, and bearing an invitation to Ruatara to visit him once more. -It was readily accepted, not only by Ruatara, but also by several other -chiefs, including the subsequently famous Hongi Hika, who was uncle to -Ruatara. These persons were hospitably entertained by Marsden at his -residence at Paramatta. Towards the end of the year, they returned to -New Zealand, and with them went Marsden and his companions, landing at -Te Puna in December of that year, as has been elsewhere spoken of. - -This is the first appearance of the redoubtable Hongi. Both he and -Ruatara took the missionaries under their protection, and firmly -maintained that attitude as long as they lived. Neither of them -embraced Christianity; but Hongi's care for the missionaries is shown -in the charge he gave to his successors on his death-bed concerning -them, which I have recorded in a previous chapter. Ruatara was a -man of much milder disposition than his uncle, though both appeared -well-mannered, courteous, amiable, and eminently sagacious when among -Europeans. Ruatara would probably have become a convert, had he not -died soon after the advent of Marsden. - -During this period many of the Maori evinced great desire to travel, -and especially to see England and its king. They were ready to -undergo any amount of hardship and ill-treatment to accomplish this. -Numbers shipped as seamen on board such vessels as would receive -them. Sometimes they resorted to amusing tricks in order to get -carried to England. Tupei Kupa, for example, a powerful chief in the -neighbourhood of Cook Straits, came on board a ship passing along the -coast, and resisted all endeavours, even force, to make him return. He -was eventually made to serve as a sailor, and seems to have become a -general favourite. He resided some time in Liverpool, afterwards being -sent home by Government. - -Hongi was affected by the same spirit. In 1820 he, accompanied by -another chief, Waikato, and under the charge of Rev. Mr. Kendall, -visited England. There he was presented to King George, and was made -much of. The two chiefs aided Mr. Kendall and Professor Lee in the -compilation of the first Maori vocabulary. They returned to Sydney -loaded with many and valuable presents. - -But in Sydney the true character of Hongi came out. He realized all -his property, and converted it into muskets, powder, and ball. With -these he sailed joyfully back to his own country. Arrived there, he set -about arming his fighting men and instructing them in the use of the -new acquisitions. He also became very friendly to such trading vessels -as touched on his coasts, giving them cargoes of such produce as the -country afforded in return for more arms. - -This chief's ambition was to constitute himself king of all New -Zealand, just as King George was sovereign over all Britain. His -theory of the way to bring this about seems to have been by killing -and eating all who opposed the project. There were some thirty tribes -of the Maori, and these were divided and subdivided into various -little sections. Sometimes a powerful chief was dominant over a large -confederation; and, again, each little kainga regarded itself as -independent. - -Originally, Hongi was ariki (head chief or king) of the Ngapuhi, and -ruled over the inhabitants of the districts round the Bay of Islands, -and between that and the west coast. As soon as he had returned from -England, and had achieved the possession of fire-arms, he converted his -previously somewhat loose lordship into a real despotism. He organized -a taua (army, regiment, or war-party), and quickly reduced any unruly -sections to obedience. Then he attacked the Ngatipo of Whangaroa, the -Ngararawa of Whangape, and the Ngaopuri of the North Cape. These he -massacred, devoured, and dispersed, swelling the ranks of his army with -accessions from among the subdued tribes. - -After this, various expeditions, under the command of Hongi, or his -sub-chiefs, marched southward to slay and eat all and sundry. The -Ngatewhatua, a populous tribe of the Kaipara districts, had to bear the -brunt of Hongi's advance, and were almost annihilated. He penetrated -a long way south, ever victorious over every one by reason of his -superior weapons. There is little doubt that he must have sometimes led -an army of as many as five thousand men, mostly armed with muskets. -This was a prodigious force for Maori war, irrespective of the enormous -advantage of powder and ball over the native merè (battle-axe) and patu -(a sort of halberd). - -Such was the spirit of the Maori, and such their warlike ferocity, that -tribes never thought of submitting peaceably, or fled from superior -strength. They always fought first. It is difficult to realize, -nowadays, the awful carnage that Hongi instituted. Districts were -depopulated, tribes annihilated, men, women, and children, in scores -and hundreds, were butchered and eaten; pa and kainga were burnt and -destroyed. - -Far to the south went the bloodthirsty conquerors, even into -what afterwards came to be the province of Wellington. Ngapaoa, -Ngatewaikato, Ngatimaniapoto, Ngatiawa, and many another tribe felt -the full force of Hongi's lust for conquest. Even to the East Cape his -terrible warriors came, decimating Ngateurewera and Ngatiporu. Of these -latter they once roasted and ate fifteen hundred, at a single one of -their cannibal orgies. - -But Hongi did not become king of New Zealand after all. He received -a wound in battle, which brought him to his death in 1828. In spite -of his propensities for war and cannibalism, both of which, one may -say, were hereditary in the Maori blood at that time, Hongi would -seem to have possessed many good qualities. His intellect was quick -and vigorous, and would have distinguished him among any people. His -ingenuity was great, both in overcoming difficulties and in the -arts which the Maori used, or that had been taught him by Europeans. -His bravery was undoubted, and was mingled with much large-hearted -generosity. He had good impulses, and was singularly affectionate to -his own family. To him missionaries and white traders owed the first -footing they obtained in the country, and the ability to hold their own -there afterwards. - -From the period of Marsden's first visit the labours of the -missionaries began to bear fruit, and Christianity spread, at first -slowly, but afterwards with marvellous rapidity and completeness. Soon -after Hongi's death a more peaceful era commenced: arms were less often -employed; cannibalism was given up among christianized tribes; and -peaceful arts were more attended to. In 1823, a Wesleyan mission was -established, first of all in Whangaroa; and, in 1837, a Roman Catholic -one was commenced in Hokianga. By 1840 the whole of the tribes of -the Maori were professedly Christian, and had relinquished their old -warlike customs. - -In 1864 there arose a singular religious revival among the Maori, known -by the name of Hau-hau. This was just at the period when the Waikato -war was concluded, and when certain sections of various tribes in the -interior had declared themselves independent under a king of their own -election. Hau-hau was instituted by some of the old tohunga (priests, -prophets, and medicine-men), mainly from political motives. They said -that as there was an English Church, a Scottish Church, and a Roman -Church, that there ought also to be a distinctive Maori Church. They -accordingly set to work to form one. - -Hau-hau consists of a frenzied form of Christianity, mingled with some -observances taken from the Mosaic Law, and comprehending old heathenish -usages grafted upon the new order of things. From the extraordinary -excitement its professors manifest, some people have thought that -mesmeric influence had a part in it. - -Hau-hau became a political movement, being inseparably connected with -the "king" rebellion. The Kingite Maori have given a good deal of -trouble in former years, but have now been quiescent for long. Their -territory occupies Kawhia county on the West Coast, being bounded by -the Waikato, Waipa, and Mokau rivers, and the sea. Their numbers are -but few. - -Till lately these rebels held themselves wholly aloof from intercourse -with the outside world, and threatened any one who should enter their -territory. At last they began to bring produce to the nearest Pakeha -market, and to buy stores, though still maintaining their reserve. In -1881 there arose some dispute about land that had been confiscated -after the war, but that had not been taken possession of. There was -talk of a furious row between the rebels and the settlers. This was -magnified by English newspapers into a "threatened Maori war," an -absurd piece of ignorance, truly! - -The "war" was put an end to the other day, by a few policemen arresting -the "King," in the midst of his dominions and surrounded by his -subjects, and conveying him off to durance vile at Wellington. A -demonstration of Taranaki volunteers was enough. No blood was spilt; no -violence offered. - -Maori wars are things of the past entirely. When are British -journalists going to awake to that fact? Now, settlers outnumber Maori -everywhere ten to one. There are roads and railways and steamers, -sufficient to convey constabulary to any riotous neighbourhood pretty -quickly. But the great point is that the Maori of the present day are -decent, quiet, and orderly folk. They are intelligent, and possess as -much civilization as would be found in many rural districts of England, -Scotland, and Wales—I will not add of Ireland, too, for fear I should -be Boycotted! Maori and settler are on perfectly equal terms, and the -former know it; moreover, they are not an homogeneous people, but -live scattered in small communities. The Kingites, who are the least -civilized, and who profess not to acknowledge our authority, showed -what they thought of the possibilities of war by their submission to -a party of constables the other day. There is no strength among them -to make a war if they wished it, which they are much too sagacious to -do. Riots, or brigandage, even, in isolated localities, are less to be -feared than similar outbreaks in Lancashire or Staffordshire. - -To read, as we did a short while ago, in influential London newspapers, -that war with the Maori was again imminent, strikes us as excessively -ludicrous. "Our shanty" even regards it as a dire insult, and there was -some talk among us of going to war ourselves—with the fourth estate in -England. Anyhow, it shows how little our friends at home really know -about this land of the blest and the free. Have there not been books -enough written about it _yet_? - -There are, it is true, a good many Maori who adhere to primitive -custom. Here and there you may find a kainga, containing from a score -to a hundred souls, where there is not much apparent advance from the -state of things fifty years back. But even here you will find that men -and women turn out in European clothes, on occasions of state; that -the children receive schooling of some sort; that there is a surprising -degree of intelligence and knowledge of the great world and its ways; -and that there is a fervent, and often dogmatic, Christianity among the -inhabitants. - -On the other hand, there are Maori of a more cultivated condition, -and these have no small influence with their less sophisticated -compatriots. Maori members sit in both houses of the Legislature; -Maori have votes at elections; there are some comparatively wealthy -Maori; there are Maori farmers, store-keepers, hotel-keepers, artisans, -policemen, postmen, teachers, and clergymen. There are two or three -Maori newspapers, partly written by Maori, for Maori to buy and read. -They are no longer to be regarded as savages, or as a distinct race, -even. They are but one of the classes of our community. - -The present total Maori population is no more than 42,819; and the -European population is 463,729. In 1874 the Maori numbered 46,016, so -they have decreased considerably since then. But it is probable that -the numbers six years ago were not taken with the same accuracy as at -the last census, so that it would, perhaps, be too hasty to say that -the race has decreased by 3000 during the last six years; yet this -estimate cannot be very far from the truth. - -There is no doubt that the Maori race are dying out, and that with -great rapidity. At the beginning of this century—about 1820—the -missionaries estimated their numbers to be 100,000, a guess that most -likely fell far short of the truth. The frightful slaughtering that -followed the introduction of fire-arms had, no doubt, much to do with -the diminution of the population, but evidently that can have no effect -at the present day; nor have the wars we have fought with certain -tribes, subsequent to 1840, been of such a bloody nature as to be set -down among the immediate causes of decrease. - -It has been too hastily assumed that the Maori were lessening before -the advent of Europeans. It has been erroneously supposed that they -were half-starved, and that they had no option but to resort to -cannibalism. Both conclusions are certainly mistaken ones, I feel -convinced. - -In the first place, when the Maori came to New Zealand, four or five -centuries ago, only a very limited number could have arrived. A long -and hazardous voyage must have been undertaken in frail canoes, -and it is not to be supposed that an entire nation could have so -migrated. Moreover, it is probable that the immigrants were driven -here accidentally, by stress of weather, possibly. Otherwise, if they -were able to voyage about so successfully in the open ocean, at will, -surely they would have kept up communication with "Hawaiiki," or other -islands, which we know they did not. - -It seems clear, therefore, that but a few people originated the Maori -inhabitants of New Zealand, and as these were certainly at one time -very numerous, it is apparent that after their coming they had gone on -increasing and multiplying. At what period, and for what reason, did -this process of increase become checked, and change to one of decrease? - -When Europeans first became acquainted with the country, the Maori had -by no means occupied the whole of it, or even nearly so, nor had they -exhausted its resources for the support of life. They were cannibals; -but it has been abundantly proved that they were not so from necessity. -Cannibalism was a part of the ceremonial of war and victory—nothing -more. It was never looked upon as a mere means of livelihood. - -It is true, that the Maori had no animals except dogs and rats, both of -which they ate; but flesh is not an absolute necessity of existence. -They had fish of many kinds in marvellous profusion; they cultivated -assiduously the kumera and taro, alone sufficient for the support of -life. Such crops as these hardly ever fail in this climate. Then there -was the fern-root everywhere, a regular article of diet with them, -and sundry other roots and herbs. Some writers have assumed that when -the moa had been hunted down and destroyed, there was no other food -available, and so the tribes turned on each other. This is monstrously -absurd. There is no evidence to show that moa were ever so plentiful as -to have been a principal part of the food-supply. There is plenty of -traditional evidence to prove that other and smaller birds were more -generally used as diet. There is no proof that the Maori were ever in -want of means of subsistence. As matter of fact they were not. They -never knew what famine was, in the sense in which it has at times been -understood in Western Ireland or the Hebrides. - -Now war, at that prehistoric period, was a very different thing from -what it afterwards became, when fire-arms were introduced. From the -very earliest time, according to their legends, war was the main -employment of the Maori. But their wars were not of a kind to cause -large devastation. Usually they were Homeric combats, where one or two -persons were slain on either side. Vast preparations were made for an -event of this kind. Rival tribes mustered all their strength; and, with -much ceremony, the taua of each came together at some appointed place. -Then for days there was much talking and boasting, and various single -duels, resulting in little or nothing. Eventually a general engagement -would ensue. Hundreds might take part in it, but rarely were there a -dozen or a score of casualties. So we gather from such accounts as have -reached us. Incessant though the inter-tribal conflicts were, they -were not of such a murderous sort as to cause large general decrease. -Extreme old age was a very frequent thing, among even prominent -fighting-men, just as now there are numerous very aged Maori. - -So, it would seem that neither war nor want were destroying the race -before the coming of the Pakeha; consequently it is not surprising to -find that the fact of their decreasing at all at that period is no -fact, and is but an opinion, a theory, an assumption that appears to be -devoid of any foundation whatsoever. - -When fire-arms were introduced, general butcheries commenced. Hongi -initiated this era. But other tribes eventually obtained the coveted -weapon, and then there was a carnival of blood all through the land. -Here we find the first real cause for general decrease. These fearful -wars must have enormously diminished the numbers of the race. - -But when Christianity laid hold of the Maori, and when colonization -came after it, there was no longer any reason left for a decrease -among the native population, at least, so one would have thought; yet -the numbers of the Maori have been growing less and less with startling -rapidity. The decrease that is going on now, and that has been going on -since 1840, is evidently not owing to war or to want. Other causes for -it must be sought for. The first Maori census was taken in 1874, and -now another enumeration has been made, showing a considerable falling -off since the other. Scarcely an old settler but will tell of districts -he knows, where years ago there was a much larger native population -than there is to-day. It is evident that, as civilization advances, and -as Pakeha grow more numerous in the country, the Maori are disappearing -faster and faster. - -Many causes have been assigned for this. The anti-alcoholists—of whom -we have many eminent and enthusiastic professors in the colony—of -course, put drink down as the chief reason. I do not think it is, -myself. Some Maori may drink themselves to death, but, so far as my -experience goes, I have found them to be remarkably abstemious as a -rule. Many Maori will not touch liquor at all; many more will take a -little, but decline to drink excessively. As one such remarked to me -once— - -"Little rum good. Makee jolly, dance, sing! Much rum bad. Makee -sleepy, makee head sore, belly sore, all sore!" - -A drunken Maori is comparatively rare in the North, at least, as far -as my observation goes. I am rather inclined to take medical evidence -on the subject of Maori decrease. Certain diseases, introduced by -the Pakeha, have spread among them extensively, and work fatally to -their constitutions. The women are thereby rendered less capable of -maternity, and the children fewer and more sickly. - -A good deal of sentiment has been unnecessarily wasted upon this -matter. We do not need to raise a cry of lamentation over the departing -Maori. Let him go; we shall get on well enough without him! When the -ordinary Englishman refers to the matter, he says— - -"They're a splendid race, those _Maries_! and it's a thousand pities -they should be dying out so fast!" - -With this commonly begins and ends the sum of his knowledge of the -matter. Now, the Maori is not altogether such an absolutely superior -person. Relatively to some other aboriginal races—the Australian -black, for instance, and perhaps most of the North American tribes—the -Maori may truly be described as a splendid race; but compared with -the Anglo-Saxon, the Maori is nowhere. He cannot match our physical -development nor our intellectual capacity, average compared with -average. - -So, let the Maori go. We do not wish him to, particularly. We are -indifferent about the matter. We would not hurry him on any account. -Nay, we will even sympathize with him, and sorrow for him—a little. We -are content to know that he will make room for a superior race. It is -but the process of Nature's sovereign law. The weaker is giving way to -the stronger; the superior species is being developed at the expense of -the inferior. - -In appearance, the Maori strike you favourably. Their features are -good, being quite in Caucasian mould, though inclining a little to -coarseness. Their heads are well shaped, their bodies and limbs well -developed and muscular. They are somewhat long in the back and short in -the leg, as compared with Europeans; and both men and women are able to -pikau (hump, or carry on the back and shoulders) great weights for long -distances. - -The colour of the skin varies. In some it is almost a coppery brown, in -others a dusky olive. The hair is black or brown, occasionally reddish. -The faces are open and intelligent, capable of much expression, and -pleasing when in repose. The eyes are large and full, and the teeth -naturally of dazzling whiteness and regularity. Some of the young -girls are comely and pretty, but as they grow old they often get -repulsively ugly. - -The average height is perhaps a little over that of Englishmen; but -the Maori are seldom over six feet, and not often below five feet six -inches. Deformed persons are to be seen in every kainga, where they are -looked upon as, to some extent, privileged by their misfortune. - -The moku (tattooing) has gone out of fashion, and is seldom seen on -young men now, except among very conservative communities. Plenty of -the older men, however, show it, and are still proud of it. The women -were never marked much, a line or two about the mouth, and on the chin, -was all they were allowed. - -The moku was not mere ornament or disfigurement. It had a distinct -heraldic meaning, and the practice had attained to quite high art. The -designs are most elaborate, and were traced with exceeding care. They -consist of concentric lines and geometric devices, each pattern having -its peculiar signification. The markings are of a blue colour; they are -principally displayed on the face and breast; and they are so deeply -set that the skin is ridged and furrowed, looking as if carved. - -The lower classes had but little moku, the more intricate and elaborate -patterns being reserved for men of rank. The higher a chief was, the -more elaboration did his moku display. When a man rose in rank, he -received additional decoration; just as civilized governments confer -orders, crosses, and stars upon distinguished generals or statesmen. -Often the face was so covered that even the nostrils, eyelids, and -lobes of the ears were adorned with minute tracery. - -The operator who was entrusted with the making of the moku, was a -man of great importance, though he might be of the lowest rank. The -possession of a skilled artist on skin was thought so much of in the -old days, that wars were sometimes waged to determine who should -benefit by his talent. He was a sort of R.A., and M.R.C.S., and -king-at-arms in combination. - -This individual had his cases of instruments, little hoe-shaped chisels -and gouges and knives, made of sharks' teeth, flint, bone, and wood. -Very neat and beautifully finished weapons they were. The pigments -consisted of charcoal, a prepared red earth, and the juice of the hinau -tree. - -The proud and happy patient was laid down on his back, and forcibly -held in position by assistants. Then the operator sketched out the -pattern on his face with charcoal. Each line or dot was chiselled in -with a suitable tool, a wooden hammer being used to send the blade -well into the flesh. The blood of course gushed freely forth, and was -scraped off with an implement made for the purpose. The pigments were -rubbed into the incisions as these were proceeded with. As may well -be supposed, the pain was simply excruciating, but it was considered -unmanly to flinch from it. - -Subsequent inflammation was generally severe, and might last for weeks, -while the whole operation would have to be effected bit by bit, over -possibly a year or two. To add to the hero's misery, all this while he -was tapu, or unclean, and could not touch food with his hands, or live -in a wharè (house). Unless he was sedulously attended to by the ladies -of his family, as was the proper thing, he would undergo no trifling -amount of inconvenience. - -The moku served a curious purpose at one time. Clumsy though Maori -fingers are, they seem to have a natural aptitude for sketching and -carving. So, when the earliest missionaries and others called upon -certain chiefs to sign the title-deeds of estates they had bought from -them, the Maori did so by drawing little sketches of the moku that -adorned their faces. Each said, "That is me, and no one else." These -curious autographs are still preserved by the Societies in London. - -It was the practice in the old days to preserve the heads of -distinguished men who were slain in battle. This was done by smoking -and drying them in such a way as to keep the emblazoned skin intact. As -soon as traders began to come from Sydney, they were ready to barter -valuable commodities for these relics, which commanded high fancy -prices among the museums and curio-hunters of Europe. - -Great inducements were, therefore, offered to trading Maori to bring -heads into market. The product seemed to be going to bring wealth into -the country, and industrial enterprise in this direction speedily -quickened. Trading tribes went to war on all sides, in order that the -supply of heads might be fully up to the demand for them. - -When this resource failed, some ingenious and business-like potentate -hit upon a splendid device. Procuring the services of a first-class -artist, he caused him to adorn a number of slaves with the most -elaborate and high-art designs. Nothing was to be spared; they were to -be decorated in the grandest style. - -When a ship came that way again, and inquiry was made by her captain -as to the ruling prices and possible supply of heads, among other -commodities, the new commercial scheme of these simple people was at -once propounded to him. The chief caused a row of emblazoned slaves -to be marshalled before the trader, and told that gentleman to pick -out those he admired. Further, he was assured that such as he deigned -to choose should be at once decapitated, their heads cured _secundem -artem_, and delivered on board his ship with promptitude and dispatch, -at the usual market rates. - -The new plan was pronounced kapai (good), and gave universal -satisfaction. Not only did it encourage a noble and national art, but -the revenue of the kingdom was thereby largely increased. We can hardly -realize, perhaps, the intense chagrin of these merry folk when they -found that the missionaries discouraged their laudable efforts in this -direction, not to mention that those teachers also interdicted the -time-honoured custom of anthropophagy. I have often fancied I heard -some ancient Maori sighing and lamenting for the good old times, the -merry days when he was young! - -But, possibly, it is as well that the moku and the head-curing process -should be now among the number of lost and vanished arts. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -MAORI MANNERS. - -II. - - -The Maori tongue is akin to several of the South Sea dialects. The -language of the distant Sandwich Islands corresponds most nearly to it. -A Maori and a Hawaiian can understand one another to a great extent. -It is strange that intervening groups should be inhabited by people of -wholly different races, who speak in altogether different tongues. - -For ordinary colloquial purposes a sufficiency of Maori is readily -acquired, though those who study it deeply discover many difficulties. -The alphabet contains only fourteen letters, consequently the sound of -many words, expressing wholly distinct ideas, is frequently confusingly -similar. The grammar is not overcharged with those bugbears of -childhood—moods, tenses, and declensions. The tone and inflection of -the voice are used to convey a varied meaning to the same word, in -many instances. A sentence will have different significations according -to the inflection used in uttering it, and to the gestures that -accompany it. The idiom is singular, but rather graceful. - -The written language has been constructed by the missionaries and -others, as has been done with various other tongues in Polynesia and -elsewhere. Bibles and sundry more books have been translated and -printed in Maori. In fact, there is beginning to be quite a Maori -literature, for, besides translations, there have been published -several volumes of Maori legends, proverbs, songs, etc., and there are -two or three journals regularly issued in the language. - -Most of the rising generation are able to read and write in their own -tongue, if not in English also; for they all have been, or go, to -school. They cannot readily articulate all our sounds, but education -is doing much to remedy this; also, they are rather inclined to adhere -to their own idiom, which is, of course, to be expected. Very few of -the elder Maori have these Pakeha accomplishments, or care to exercise -them. A queer pride and prejudice keep them from attempting to learn or -speak English. But I have found that a good many of them know a great -deal more than they are disposed to allow. - -The ancient Maori would seem to have had some notion of hieroglyphic -or picture-writing. The moku is one example of this, and others are -to be found in the symbolic carvings of door-lintels and of standard -posts, inscriptions on rocks and trees, and the sacred whalebone staves -of the tohunga, whereon were kept a genealogical record of the families -of high rank. - -Oral tradition was well kept up among the Maori, and certain of them -may be termed deep scholars in it. They are a long-winded race, and -very great at a korero (talk or debate), without which nothing was or -can be done. They can reel off immeasurable quantities of legendary -history or romance, in prose and verse, having astounding memories -for this sort of thing. Oratory was cultivated as an art by them, -and many are remarkably eloquent; but the style of their orations -principally consists in the recitation of proverbs and traditions, -and the application of them to affairs of the moment. Sir George Grey -is, perhaps, more intimately acquainted with these things, and with -the Maori language, than any other Pakeha, and he has collected and -published some of their poems and sayings. - -Decidedly the most noteworthy Maori institution was that of the tapu. -It exists in various forms throughout the South Sea. There is the tambu -of Fiji, and the tabu of other islands, essentially the same thing. -But it was among the Maori that it appears to have been brought to its -greatest perfection. We have drawn from it our word _taboo_, which we -use to express anything that is rigidly forbidden or disallowed. But -the Maori tapu went far deeper than that. To use the words of another -writer, "it comprised everything that we would call law, custom, -etiquette, prejudice, and superstition, and had therefore its good as -well as its bad effects." - -Except in some of its superstitious aspects, the tapu is now a thing of -the past, and is spoken of here as such. I have not studied the subject -very deeply, but have picked up enough knowledge of it to enable me to -give a general idea of what it was. - -Tapu appeared under many different phases, and was intimately connected -with all the concerns of life. A river was tapu at certain well-known -seasons, thus providing a close time for the fish. No person might -disturb it in any way; no one might fish or bathe in it; nor might a -canoe venture upon its surface until the tapu was removed. - -A wood was tapu, in like manner, when birds were nesting, tawhera -fruit maturing, or rats multiplying. This was in effect a game-law. -Similarly, the fields and gardens, the cultivations of kumera and taro, -used not to be fenced until the introduction of pigs rendered that -necessary. Human trespassers were kept off by means of the inviolable -tapu. Burglars and thieves were prevented from entering empty houses, -or from appropriating property, by the same simple means. - -The application of the tapu was exceedingly simple. A carved and -painted rod was stuck up; a bunch of flax was prominently displayed; a -rag from the person, a bone, a bunch of hair set in some conspicuous -situation, any of these were sufficient indications of the awful -mystery. But to remove the tapu was a wholly different matter. That -could not be done so easily. In all cases of importance a whole ritual -had to be gone through before the tapu could be lifted. Ceremonies -of high import were sometimes necessary, even a sort of propitiatory -sacrifice seems occasionally to have been made. The karakia, a kind of -invocation or prayer, had to be uttered with due solemnity, and this -necessitated the intervention of the tohunga. - -Here let me explain who this personage was. Like poets, the tohunga -was born, not made. What gave him his particular sanctity or dignity, -how he was chosen, set apart, or elected to office, are things that no -Pakeha can understand. They are sublime and fearful mysteries, into -which not even the greatest friend of the Maori has ever been able to -penetrate. All we have ever learnt regarding the tohunga is simply -that there he _was_, the acknowledged priest, prophet, seer, sorcerer, -medical man, judge and jury, executioner, and general adviser of the -tribe, while also being the grand vizier of the chief, if indeed he was -not the chief himself. He might belong to any class. He might be an -ariki (sovereign), a tana (noble), a rangatira (gentleman), or one of -the commonalty. He might even be a kuki (slave), or, as has been known, -a wahine (woman). This, then, was the individual with whom rested the -imposition or lifting of the tapu, in all the more solemn cases, and he -was the arbiter and arranger of all its various and intricate modes of -application. - -The penalties for infringement of tapu depended upon the particular -phase of it that was broken. Often instant death was dealt out to -offenders; it was inevitable in all important cases. But slighter -punishment was sufficient in instances of a less comprehensive kind. -Tapu was rarely broken except through accident or ignorance, for -dark and gloomy horrors of a spectral kind hovered round it in Maori -imagination. Yet if tapu was infringed, neither ignorance of it, nor -unavoidable accident was held to be the slightest excuse. Bloody -massacres have taken place, and furious wars been waged, simply to -avenge some unintentional breach of tapu. - -No notion of chastity seems to have belonged to Maori women. They were -children of nature, and by no means prudish. Whilst young and free, -unengaged to any gentleman, a Maori girl was permitted to have as -many followers as she liked, and she was not exactly what we should -term virtuous. If pretty she was a general pet in the kainga, and a -merry time she had of it. One of the ordinary rules of hospitality -as practised in a Maori village, still not entirely obsolete in some -places, proves the engaging openness of manners and unrestricted -freedom which prevailed socially. The number of half-breed children -occasionally seen about a kainga, show the easy way in which certain -Pakeha have fallen in with Maori customs. - -But tapu provided a marriage law of singular stringency. So soon as a -girl was married, nay, merely betrothed, no more license for her. She -was tapu to her husband, and if the terrors of the unseen world should -not be enough to keep her in the straight path, death was the penalty -for the slightest deviation therefrom. She was the slave as well as the -wife of her lord, and this continued until, and sometimes even after, -his death, unless he should permit a sort of formal divorce. - -The person of an ariki was highly tapu. The sublime essence rested, -if anywhere, most particularly in his head. His hair might not be cut -or dressed without the observance of most formal etiquette. It was a -fearful breach of tapu to pass anything over or above his head. Any -man was tapu, or unclean, if he were wounded, sick, or undergoing the -moku. He might not enter a house, or eat food with his hands. But an -ariki in this condition was, of course, tapu in much higher degree. -One such dignitary, entering the canoe of another person, accidentally -scratched his toe with a splinter. Blood flowing from the wound made -the boat tapu, and it thereby became the property of the chief. The -owner surrendered at once, not even dreaming of complaint. - -Burial places were naturally tapu. A Maori of the olden time would -rather die than break their sanctity; and his descendants of the -present day have hardly got over the feeling. They were called wahi -tapu, and no one dared to enter them. The tohunga and his assistants -passed within them to bury the dead, but only with much karakia and -ceremony. Spirits of some kind were supposed to keep watch and ward -over them, and to wreak terrible vengeance upon trespassers. Water -flowing from a wahi tapu was sacred, and whatever it touched became -tinctured with the same dread property. Rather a nuisance, sometimes, -one would think, such as when a storm of rain should send a new -watercourse from some wahi tapu on a hill-side down into the river, or -through the kainga. Either would thus be rendered tapu, and have to be -deserted at once. - -Certain lands, at the present day, cannot be bought from their Maori -owners because of wahi tapu upon them. It will be remembered that our -show-place is in this category. There is a wahi tapu, a cavern in this -instance, near the Bay of Islands, that will yield treasure-trove to -curio-hunters some day. With the bodies of the dead were placed their -arms, valuables, and personals generally. There is said to be a great -store of such riches in this place. Of course, no Maori will go very -near it, and the few Pakeha of the district who know its whereabouts -would not break the tapu, having too much to lose, and not caring to -risk Maori wrath. - -In the earliest days of intercourse with Europeans, the tapu was -sometimes made useful in business; useful, that is, to the Maori, but -certainly not to the trader. For instance, a Sydney vessel sails into -Hokianga, or some other river, and is boarded by the ariki of the -neighbourhood. This gentleman is perfectly satisfied with the trader's -goods, but cannot agree as to the price to be paid for them in pigs, -lumber, and flax. The Pakeha wants so much; the Maori offers so -little. Long chaffering results in no better understanding. At length -the chief departs indignantly, previously putting the tapu upon the -ship and her cargo. No other natives will now approach or do business; -even other tribes will not infringe the tapu. If the skipper wished to -sail off to some other part, he could not do so, except by risking a -battle, or spoiling his chances of future trade. Generally, he would -come to terms with the chief, after an exasperating delay. - -The mana (power) of an ariki was very great; and, in a lesser degree -the next ranks, the tana and rangatira, possessed it also. As there was -little or nothing externally to distinguish the greatest of chiefs from -the meanest of his subjects, "the dignity that doth hedge a king" was -conferred and kept up by the mysterious agencies of the tapu. Possibly -this was a good reason for its universal supremacy. - -The tapu descended into the commonest details of daily life, and it -reached to the most solemn and obscurest depths of the Maori mythology. -It was a law—a code of laws, based on superstition, elaborated with -diplomatic skill, enforced by human justice, universally and entirely -accepted, and in its most important aspects was invested with the -grimmest terrors of the unseen world. - -A Maori would certainly rather die than enter the precincts of a wahi -tapu; his terrors would probably kill him if he were so much as touched -by a ngarara, or little green lizard. Incredible as it may seem, the -Maori were indeed sometimes killed by fear. Instances are on record of -individuals who have unknowingly violated the tapu, in some one of its -important phases. No one else might be aware of the crime, so that the -culprit would have nothing to dread from human justice. But he has been -so absolutely terror-stricken, that he has gone straight away into the -bush, laid down, and died there. - -Everything about an ariki was invested with a sacred mystery. His -clothes, weapons, ornaments, or house could not even be touched by the -inferior. He must eat alone, could not carry food, could not blow the -fire, could not do many things, lest his tapu should unwittingly slay -some unfortunate person, or his mana become impaired. - -The law of the tapu made government possible among the Maori, and bound -them together in their tribes; just as the law of Moses made government -possible among the Hebrews. Indeed, in many of its applications the -tapu is strangely similar to the Jewish code. Sometimes it may seem -ridiculous to us in certain of its forms, so do many of our customs -seem ridiculous to the Maori. The other day, one of the Maori members -of the House of Representatives rose in his place to oppose a motion -for an hour's adjournment of business. He said that the Pakeha system -of adjourning for refreshment every now and then was a ridiculous -one. Honourable members went and got more or less drunk—so the Maori -alleged—and then returned only to wrangle or go to sleep. It would -be better to conclude the business on hand, and do the drinking -afterwards, observed this sapient legislator. Some "teetotallers'" -organ, commenting on the incident, said "his remarks actually shamed -the House into decent behaviour for a day or two." - -The early missionaries made a dead set against the tapu as a heathen -custom, and herein, I think, their policy was a mistaken one. But its -whole working was not known to them at that period, and, besides that, -it caused them no inconsiderable annoyance. The following story is -recorded—by a writer who was himself one of the missionaries—of the -first serious blow that heathenism received in New Zealand, and from -which originated the acceptance of Christianity by all the tribes of -the Maori. - -An early party of missionaries had settled at Keri-keri, in the Bay of -Islands district, and were on friendly terms with the natives. But when -the customary tapu of the Keri-keri river was in force, it caused the -mission people great annoyance. The river was their only road, and they -could not now pass up or down it; their communications with Te Puna, -the principal mission centre in the bay itself, were thus stopped. -Stores were required, and at last, in defiance of the native tradition, -the mission boat was manned and rowed down the river, thus breaking -through the inviolable tapu. - -The rage and terror of the Maori were excessive, as may be supposed, -and they looked to see the outraged atua (spirits) exterminate the rash -Pakeha. But nothing happened, so the Maori determined to avenge the -insult themselves, as their fathers had done on Du Fresne, for a very -similar violation of tapu. They seized the mission boat on its return, -and tied up its occupants preparatory to killing and eating them. Then -a whole tribe divided the boat's cargo among themselves. - -Now, it so chanced that the bulk of the stores, which the boat was -bringing up from Te Puna to Keri-keri, consisted of two items: pots -and tins of preserves of different kinds, and a supply of medicines. -The Maori devoured the first greedily, and then, as they did not know -what else the drugs could be intended for, out of a mere sense of -consistency they swallowed salts, jalap, ipecacuanha, castor oil, and -so on, as greedily and copiously as they had the jams and pickles. - -The result may readily be imagined. Dire prostration of that unhappy -tribe. Instant release of the captives, amid the grovellings and -supplications of the now anguished and disordered Maori. Triumphant and -unexpected victory of the missionary mana. That tribe became instant -converts, and were received into the fold of the Church. Had not the -missionaries broken through the dreaded tapu unharmed? And had not the -avengers of their insulted deities been visited with strange and awful -punishment for their presumption in daring to meddle with these Pakeha? -What further evidence was needed to demonstrate the superiority of the -missionaries over all the Maori gods and devils? - -Most strange, too, is another circumstance that operated to the same -end. The Maori had oracles, or some kind of divination that was -practised by the tohunga. Again and again were these oracles consulted, -as to whether the Pakeha religion or the Maori mythology was best -worthy of belief. The answer was invariable—so the missionaries tell -us. It declared Jesus Christ to be the only true God. So the tapu Maori -was set aside; and, little by little, the tapu Pakeha, or Christianity, -replaced it. - -At the present day all Maori are professed Christians, and, as a rule, -very earnest ones. Among the younger there is a state of mind more -approaching to our standards, but with the elders it is different. -They were born under a different _régime_. Their young minds were -filled with hereditary impressions that conversion has been naturally -powerless to shake off altogether. Their vague and foggy mythology -is still believed in, though they formulate their notion of it in -Scriptural words and phrases. - -They have long laid aside the old habits of war and cannibalism, but -political necessity brought this about, quite as much as Christianity. -And the old warlike spirit is by no means dead, any more than the dark -and gloomy mysteries of the ancient belief. These crop out sometimes -from beneath the veneer of the newer mental garment. - -It was believed that the spirits of the dead—of the good dead, the -brave warrior dead, apparently—had a long and toilsome journey before -them. They had to cross mountains and marshes, and to find their way -through forests and over rivers. Many terrible difficulties had to be -encountered, and all sorts of spirit foes were ready to contest the -narrow path. At last the end of the earth was reached, Cape Reinga, -in the extreme north. An awfully tapu place this to living Maori. -Here came the spirits of the dead at last, after accomplishing their -journey, beset as it had been with many perils. And from the top of -Cape Reinga, a mighty rock projecting into the sea, they took their -last look at earth and dived into the water. Then they had to swim out -beyond the Three Kings Islands, where the gate of Paradise was supposed -to be situated. - -Many a tattooed Christian cannot give up his belief in this idea, -and he still retains it, reconciling it in some dim way with his new -theology. - -There is a little emerald-green lizard in the bush, called by the Maori -ngarara. It is dreadfully tapu, and an old warrior would rather die -than touch it. It is believed to contain a spirit, some say an evil -demon, others the ghost of a wicked man. There is some uncertainty on -that point, even among the most learned tohunga. At any rate it is most -excessively tapu. It seems that to throw a ngarara at a Maori, or even -to bring it near him, or show it to him, is a crime of a very heinous -character. Wars were the consequence of such acts, once upon a time. -I did not know of this superstition regarding the ngarara, and nearly -lost my life in consequence. At least, I have been told the case was as -bad as that. - -This was the way of it. Once, when engaged in land-surveying, I had a -gang of Maori workmen, to cut the lines through the bush and do the -general work of the party. Among these were two or three half-breeds, -youngish men, and a couple of old moku Maori, with others. The two -old fellows always struck me as being more like Irishmen of the -peasant class than anything else. They always had some whimsical -joke or another, there was a normally comic look in their faces, and -they possessed that quaint affectation of childishness, and love of -laughter, which are proverbially characteristic of the Irish peasant. - -We had been some weeks out, and had got on very well together. Like all -the others, the two old boys were remarkably pious. They had a sort of -Bible-class and prayer-meeting every night and morning in the camp. I -used to call them "the two apostles," because their baptismal names -happened to be Pita (Peter) and Pora (Paul). - -One day, when we were all at work on the line, I happened to pick up a -pretty little ngarara. Without thinking of what I was doing, I held it -out to Pita and Pora, who were nearest to me, asking them what it was, -and finally I threw it lightly towards them, saying, "Catch!" - -The two apostles became suddenly transformed. They yelled, they -screeched, they leapt and danced, they chanted the terrific war-song -of their tribe. Never shall I forget the sudden and fierce convulsion -that completely changed every feature of their faces and bodies. I no -longer knew my two apostles, they had changed into demoniac savages in -a whirlwind of wrath. - -I stood admiringly watching them, never supposing this exhibition was -real, but imagining it was simply a new joke got up for my behoof. The -two came gradually closer towards me, clashing their axes together, -and seeming like a pair of ferocious panthers. But I noticed that the -rest of the gang had stopped work and were looking on. They were not -laughing, but seemed excited and concerned. Then it occurred to me that -something was not right, and that it would be as well to withdraw. - -Just as Pita and Pora were brandishing their axes within a few feet -of me, yelling and dancing, or rather bounding, towards me, the two -half-breeds rushed swiftly past them and threw themselves between us. -Without a word they seized me by the arms and dragged me into the -thicket. Then they explained, saying— - -"Run for your life! They mean to kill you!" - -When I rejoined the working-party an hour or two later, Pita and Pora -were calm again, and had resumed their work. They merely growled and -menaced me. Afterwards, when we were lying side by side in camp, Pita -reverted to the matter as a pleasant episode. He told me all about the -ngarara, how tapu it was, and what a dreadful insult I had unwittingly -put upon him and his mate. He said they would certainly have killed me -in their wild gust of passion, though they would have been sorry for it -afterwards. It was all over now, he added, because he and Pora had had -time to reflect, and remembered that I was a poor ignorant Pakeha who -knew no better. Besides, they were Christians, which they had forgotten -in their heat. Now, they were my two apostles once more. I understand -that Pora alluded feelingly to the matter during an exposition of the -Scriptures, with which he favoured the rest of the gang the following -Sunday. - -At the present day, the rites and ceremonies of the tohunga have -entirely given place to Christian observances; and, as is the wont of -primitive intelligences, the Maori are most rigorous observers of all -outward forms, whatever degree of fervour they may have spiritually -attained. In the young days of Christianity here, the converts ascribed -to the missionaries a magical mana, such as they had formerly believed -to reside in the tohunga. This was the natural result of that terrible -day of wrath on the Keri-keri, when a "great awakening" was brought -about through the instrumentality and efficacy of Epsom salts, and -when the mana of the tapu Pakeha was thereby so fully demonstrated. -Consequently, the ceremonial prescribed and the doctrines inculcated by -the missionaries were most unquestioningly accepted. - -The Maori adopted religion with a marvellous zeal, and, had it not been -for European colonization, sectarianism, and other reasons, they might -have become a startling example of fervid Christianity. The differences -between denominations, even in the early days, created much bitterness, -and, as we have seen, led to Hau-hau. It has needed, at times, all -the mana of the missionary, and more, to prevent actual hostilities -between communities professing the differing creeds of the Episcopal, -Wesleyan, or Roman Catholic bodies. One often meets with sad examples -of sectarian animosity manifested among these simple people. - -In the early days the missionaries were a political power. Long before -the Treaty of Waitangi was signed they had attained a supreme and -widespread influence among the tribes. As has been already noticed, it -was their desire to have formed a Christian Maori nation, under their -own ægis; and, to effect this, they seem to have disregarded the wants -of their own countrymen. But all this is retrospective matter, with -which it is not now necessary to deal. Neither may I revert to the -action of missionaries in the young days of the colony, either with -regard to the general government, or to the land-sharking attributed -to certain of their number. Too much acrimony has been given rise to -already by the discussion of such topics. - -The missionary influence has now less practical power, perhaps, than -clerical direction in England. Only among secluded hapu (communities) -is anything resembling the old force to be found, and there it is -necessarily limited and localized. It is felt more among the elders -than among the younger generations, who have learnt to read and write, -have mixed more with Pakeha, and whose minds are consequently more -open, and less inclined to accept spiritual authority as absolute. -Their conceptions are not the same as their fathers', to whose minds -Christianity came as a new form of tapu, and to whom the missionary -appeared as possessor of a more powerful mana than the tohunga. - -Sunday is a kind of tapu day with the Maori. They are often more -Sabbatarian than Scotsmen, and more pharisaic than the Pharisees -themselves. To the letter of the law they pay the minutest attention, -whether they estimate its spirit rightly or not. - -But there is great diversity of character in this as in other matters, -and what is recorded of one tribe or community will not always apply -to all. The perfect equality with the Pakeha that the Maori enjoy, and -the degree of education that has grown up among them, have produced -effects. Among others is a gradual change from fervour to hypocrisy, -and from an exaggerated piety to a lesser regard for the forms of -religion. Year by year fewer tales will be told of Maori affectations, -simple pieties, or childish formalism. - -Religion is often the fashion in some of their communities, and is -entertained with the most rigid observance. Travellers coming to a -Maori kainga upon a Sunday, have been denied shelter and food until -sunrise on Monday; and, when Monday came, they have been cheated by the -same tattooed Pharisees, who were too sanctimonious to sell a potato -to a hungry traveller upon the Sabbath, or to help him build a hut as -shelter from the wind and rain. - -Maori look upon a money collection in church as a part of the ceremony, -on no account to be omitted. The service, they think, is incomplete -without it. But they will not give more than one penny, on any account -whatever. The warden, who is taking round the plate, has to make change -for numerous sixpences, shillings, and even notes (£1) in the course -of his progress through the church, in order that the Maori may give -their pennies—no more and no less. If a man or woman cannot raise a -penny, he or she will usually stop away from church altogether, rather -than be remiss in the important ceremony of putting a copper in the -plate. In the rare case, when one is found in church without possessing -a copper to give, he will _make believe_ to put something in the plate -when it comes to him, and—by way, I suppose, of strengthening the -deception—will make a horrible grimace at the collector. - -There are many very quaint scenes to be witnessed in connection -with a Maori church, which, until they were used to them, must -have sorely tried the gravity of the missionaries and the white -part of the congregation. The Maori behave with an exaggerated -decorum and seriousness of deportment that is in itself sufficiently -laughter-provoking, especially since their eyes are always roving -stealthily round to see who is observing them. They sing with such -earnestness that at times it almost amounts to fury; and they join in -the responses with loud and emphatic fervour. They will weep abundantly -and noisily when moved thereto by certain prayers, or by pathetic -incidents from Scripture history; or they will laugh uproariously at -passages that tickle their fancy. - -Nothing whatever can keep these simple and excitable people from -showing their feelings, as aroused by Scripture reading or by the -sermon. They listen to the preacher precisely as they do to their own -traditions, when told by a native story-teller in the wharè. Their -ejaculations are frequent, and prove the intense and vivid interest -they take in the stories told them. I have seen a church-ful of Maori -grinding their teeth, stamping their feet, waving their arms, and -actually raging, when the treachery of Judas was being related to them. - -On the other hand, I have seen the same people violently nodding their -heads, grinning with appreciation, exclaiming kapai! (good), and -showing thorough approbation, over the somewhat questionable business -transactions of the patriarch Jacob with Esau and Laban. The stories -of Daniel and the lions, and of the other young men who were thrown -into the fiery furnace, are high favourites with the Maori. The lions' -den finds a parallel in their own mythology, and is recognized by them -as being meant for the mysterious cave of the Taniwha, or gigantic -lizard-dragon, of which they possess legends. - -Dress is a most important item of Sunday ceremony among the Maori, -and it is astonishing how well they will turn out. In the seclusion -of their own kainga they frequently lay aside civilized attire, and -are seen either quite naked, or only loosely enveloped in a dirty -blanket; but elsewhere they usually wear shirt and trousers, much the -same as settlers. To go to church, as also on high-days and holidays, -they appear in wonderfully correct costume; for most Maori have earned -money enough, at one time or another, with which to rig themselves -out at the stores. Coats of broadcloth, alpaca, or light silk; snowy -shirt-collars and cuffs; dangling watch-chains, with perhaps a bouquet -in the buttonhole, and a bright-coloured satin scarf; "billy-cock" or -"wide-awake" hats, white cork helmets, or possibly even a "chimney-pot" -hat; accurate trousers and unquestionable boots; in such guise does the -Maori rangatira of the present day saunter into church, side by side -with the far less well-got-up English-born New Zealand gentleman. - -Only one item of the old barbaric splendour—besides the moku on the -face—is retained, and that is nearly always seen; namely, the earrings -and ornaments. These are prominent features, and their size causes them -to be well displayed. The ear ornaments are of considerable variety. -A polished slip of greenstone (jade), about six or eight inches in -length, is most highly thought of. Then there are dog's teeth, boar's -tusks, polished shells and pebbles, bunches of soft white feathers like -marabouts, fresh flowers, and yards upon yards of streaming ribbon. -But this ornamentation is not unsightly, though at first it may seem -somewhat incongruous with the rest of the costume. Some of us used to -discuss the advisability of decorating our own ears in the same way, -with a view, perhaps, of looking more attractive in the eyes of the -Maori maidens. - -The Maori young ladies are not, perhaps, strikingly beautiful—our -Rakope always excepted—but they have good features, plump, graceful -figures, and an altogether comely and agreeable _tout ensemble_. -Their white teeth and juicy lips, sparkling eyes and dimpling cheeks, -ever-ready smiles and roguish glances, make them a very pleasant sight -to see. One loses all distaste for the brown complexion, and even for -the two or three lines of moku on the chin, though most of the present -generation are without those marks. - -The dress of a Maori girl, under ordinary circumstances, is a print -frock and nothing else, unless it be a straw hat. But, like the -gentlemen, she can come out a grand swell sometimes. You may see all -the latest Auckland fashions in a Maori church. The general run of the -girls' costume is a dress of calico or some similar stuff, clean and -well put together, with a tartan shawl of the most vivid hues over -the shoulders, a jaunty hat decorated with flowers and feathers, and -a general profusion of natural flowers and fluttering ribbons in the -flowing hair. Boots and socks are worn on such occasions, much to the -wearers' discomfort, I believe. - -But the rangatira girls have learnt from the Pakeha ladies to indulge -a passion for fine clothes, and it is seldom that they do not find -means to gratify their vanity. A Maori _young lady_—for the rangatira -hold themselves as of gentle blood at the very least—has several ways -open to her of acquiring sufficient pin-money to place her wardrobe on -a proper footing. The first and easiest method is evidently to worry -"papa" into selling some of his land; but the Maori paterfamilias is -not always pleased to allow his daughters to interfere with his own -peculiar line of business. - -Of course miss declines to go out to service as a domestic in any -settler's family, even if she were fitted for such a post—that is -menial work, and suitable only for the inferior kuki girls. But she -does not always object to do open-air labour about a farm, dig potatoes -and kumera, reap and shell maize, assist among the flocks at shearing -time, and take a job of humping. Often she will go gum-digging or -flax-picking—one or other of these is her favourite means of raising -the wind, unless she can find a market for fish, fruit, or eggs. Any -way, get money she must, and will, and does, somehow or another, and -on Sundays and gala-days she will appear at church or at the settlement -arrayed in a style that would do credit to Regent Street. - -At our bush-balls the Maori girls appear in muslins, ribbons, silks, -and laces—though these may not always be of the cleanest or newest. -And I have even seen silk stockings—white or pink, with "clocks" up -the sides—and sandal-shoes upon their feet. - -Nor is our modern Maori belle merely a dressed-up savage. Educated at -the mission or government schools, she can always read and write in -Maori, and often in English better than she can speak it. She has some -idea of elementary arithmetic, geography, and history, and can use a -needle and thread, study the English fashion-books, and sometimes even -use her pencil and draw a little. Still, I am bound to say, all these -improvements are but superficial; the Maori blood is in the girl and is -bound to show itself, however far advanced may be her education. - -Whilst young and unmarried, and even in the early days of matrimony, -the Maori girl's life is happy enough. She is petted and caressed by -everybody, particularly if more than ordinarily comely; but in the -after years she becomes a beast of burden, a hewer of wood and drawer -of water, an inferior being, who may be soundly thrashed when her lord -considers it good to do so. And the less said about the older women -the better; they rapidly pass through every degree of homeliness, -until they at last attain to a surpassing and appalling hideousness. -In the best and foremost of the Maori girls of the period there is -a constant struggle between the acquired Pakeha refinements and the -primitive habits of the kainga. This leads to many ludicrous scenes, -two instances of which I will describe. - -One Sunday I saw the young and handsome daughter of a chief of some -rank stepping out of church, and got up to death in a costume that was -evidently the result of a recent visit to Auckland itself. For the -benefit of my lady readers I will try to describe her dress—so far as -an ex-bushman may essay such a task. - -Her robe was of pale green silk, adorned with lace trimmings, darker -green fringes, and pale pink satin borderings. It had a panier and -train, and was shaped and fitted with great taste, and as a fashionable -milliner might turn it out. The lady wore cuffs and collar of white -lace, with pink satin bows, also a gorgeous cameo brooch, a gold -watch-chain, and lavender kid gloves. Her head was adorned with a -wide-brimmed white hat, high-crowned, and having one side looped up. -It was ornamented with dark green velvet, some gay artificial flowers, -a stuffed humming-bird, and a long drooping ostrich feather. Her hair -was elaborately dressed in the latest type of chignon; in one hand she -carried a gorgeous parasol, all ribbons and fringes and lace, and in -the other she had a large feathery fan; while from beneath the white -edge of her petticoat two pretty little boots peeped out. - -Of course my lady was the cynosure of all eyes, and her delighted -vanity was boundless. She minced and rustled down the pathway like -a peacock, utterly disdaining all her kindred, male and female, and -immensely proud of her own "Englishness." She tossed her head and -twisted herself about as a child would do, and wore on her face -a chronic smile of supreme self-contentment, while her eyes were -wandering all about to note the effect her grandeur was producing. - -As her ladyship would not condescend to let any one speak to her, so -grand and dignified did she feel, it happened that, when she got to -the outskirts of the settlement, she found herself alone, and then, I -suppose, her assumption of Englishness suddenly left her. One or two of -us had stolen after her, keeping hidden among the bushes at the side -of the road, and thence witnessing what followed. - -Presently appeared on the scene two or three old Maori women, horrible, -repulsive-looking hags, scantily draped in the filthiest and most -ragged of blankets, their brows thatched with disgusting masses of -hair and dirt. These witches gathered round the young belle, loudly -expressing their admiration, and fingering over her Pakeha attire. Then -her ladyship experienced a sudden revulsion of feeling, and returned -all at once to the level of common humanity. Relinquishing all her -airs and graces, she whipped up her silken skirts, squatted down on -her hams, drew out a short black pipe, and, cheek-by-jowl with her -ancient compatriots, enjoyed a hearty smoke, while relating with great -animation the events of the morning. - -On another occasion I was riding down to the Bay of Islands, when I -came up behind a couple who were riding leisurely along in the same -direction. Save and except their shaggy, ungroomed horses, they might -have just ridden out of Hyde Park into the middle of that wild country. -One was a lady, attired in an elegant, blue, velveteen riding-habit, -with hat and feather to match, and with silky brown hair falling over -her shoulders down to her horse's croup. Her cavalier, from the top -of his white helmet down to his spurred boot-heels, was got up with -considerably more regard to effect than is ordinarily seen in the bush. - -And there was a good deal of spooning going on, apparently, though that -is not so uncommon when couples ride out together, even in the bush. -The gentleman was carrying the lady's parasol and other paraphernalia, -was leaning over, holding her hand, looking into her eyes, and all the -rest of it. - -"Ho, ho!" I thought to myself, "that will be Miss Dash, I presume, whom -the Blanks expected to visit them. And who is the fellow, I wonder!" - -So I rode quickly after them, coming up without attracting attention, -my horse's unshod hoofs making scarcely any noise on the soft road. -To my amazement, the amorous pair turned out to be Henere Tangiao, a -half-breed, who had been the foreman of a gang of native labourers -I had lately discharged; and his fair companion was his very recent -bride, formerly Miss Mata Akepiro. - -They greeted me with great cordiality, only a little overcome by -self-consciousness of their "store-clothes," that had been donned to do -honour to some settlers they had been to visit. Said Mrs. Tangiao to -me, showing her pretty teeth, and with only a little more Maori accent -than I am able to reproduce— - -"You come see our house, Mitta Hay; you come see old Maori kainga at -Matapa? You come plenty plenty soon, good!" - -I accepted the invitation, and did go some days after that. The house -was a little wooden cottage, built outside the enclosed kainga of raupo -wharè, or reed-grass cabins, of the rest of the tribe. It was a wharè -Pakeha, built by Henere in right of the admixture of English blood in -his veins, and not, I truly believe, from any preference for that style -of building over the old Maori kind. - -There was no one about when I arrived, so I walked through the two -rooms and out at the back. The rooms were furnished with a few tables -and chairs and other things, much after the style of married settlers -in a small way. Out behind the house was an open space, where a -fire was burning, with a billy boiling upon it. Close to the fire, -superintending the cooking, her hair hanging in elf-locks round her -head and over her face, squatting on the ground with her chin on her -knees, a pipe in her mouth, and a dirty blanket over her shoulders as -her only garment, was Mrs. Tangiao, the lady of the riding-habit. - -Naturally, you would suppose that such an elegant and civilized young -bride would blush with shame and dismay at being discovered by me in -such utter _déshabillé_. Not a bit of it! Up she jumped, all smiles -and welcomes, her blanket falling off as she did so, and leaving her -as naked as a mahogany Venus. Even this did not discompose her in the -least, as she warmly shook hands with me, and with truly childlike -innocence offered her lips for a fraternal salute. - -But the most comical part of the whole affair is yet to be told. -A hearty coo-ee or two brought up Henere, who was at work in his -cultivation at no great distance. After he had shaken me by the hand -and warmly welcomed me, he began to scold the unlucky Mata. Not on -the score of indelicacy or indecency, though; no such thought as that -crossed his brain, good easy man! He only reproved his wife for not -showing sufficient and proper honour to her "rangatira Pakeha" guest, -which could not be done, he considered, unless she were completely -attired in full Pakeha costume. - -So, while I sat on the verandah and sipped some tea, Henere commenced -to dress up his bride before my very eyes. He put on and fastened every -article of her best clothes, combed and brushed out her redundant hair, -decked and ornamented her with all the ribbons and laces and so on of -which her wardrobe could boast. Meanwhile, the lady remained quite -passive under his hands, sitting or standing or turning about as -required, but all the while with serious unmoved expression of face, -and puckered-up lips. Her large wondering eyes she kept fixed intently -upon me, to note the effect the processes of her toilette were having -upon me. I was very nearly strangled with suppressed laughter, but it -would have mortally offended these simple, earnest people to have shown -the least sense of the ridiculous. - -When all was finished, and Mrs. Tangiao was costumed in English -fashion, and very nicely, too, let me say, her husband made her enter -the sitting-room and sit down upon a chair. Then he turned to me, -unbounded satisfaction visible in his beaming face, inflated breast, -and gesturing hands. - -"You come see common Maori, sah? You come find Pakeha gentleman, Pakeha -lady, Pakeha house! Good, good! Now you sit talk to my missee, I get -Pakeha dinner." - -After the meal we took a stroll through the kainga, Mata trying to -attitudinize after the fashion of the white ladies she had seen in the -settlements; and Henere loftily informing his neighbours that "_We -three Pakeha_ come to see _your_ Maori town"—a piece of humour that -was thoroughly enjoyed by both men and women, who made great capital -for numberless jokes out of it. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -MAORI MANNERS. - -III. - - -Half-breeds, or Anglo-Maori men and women, form no inconsiderable -section of the native community. Some have said of them, that -they inherit the vices of both their parents, and the virtues of -neither, but I cannot say that my own observation goes to support -such a sweeping allegation. I have had some good friends among the -Anglo-Maori, and never noticed any predominant vice in their character -at all. - -In complexion and general appearance, the Anglo-Maori resemble -Spaniards or Italians, though they possess more or less marked traits -of either the English or the Maori blood that mixes in their veins. -Their physique is usually good, though they incline to slenderness -and delicacy. They are by no means to be stigmatized as idle, but -their capacity for work seems less than that of either parent. They -lack the shrewdness of the Maori, and have not the mental power of -the Anglo-Saxon. When a half-breed is bad, he seems to be wholly so, -without any redeeming good qualities. - -The Anglo-Maori women are nearly all very graceful and good-looking. -There are some among them that are only to be described in the -strongest language, as exceedingly beautiful. I have met a voluptuous -beauty of this mixed race, an educated and fashionable lady, whose rare -and exquisite loveliness might have made her the cause and heroine of -another Trojan war. Once I knew one who possessed the most magnificent -hair I ever expect to see. - -We were playing croquet, I remember, some half a dozen people. The -ladies had been bathing, I think; at any rate, they wore their hair -flowing loose. I never saw anything like it. She, my partner in the -game, had a complete mantle of dark-brown silky tresses. Her hair -fell in volumes round her, and actually trailed on the ground when -she stood upright. What an advertisement she would have been for a -"hair-restorer!" - -You know that at croquet one sometimes kneels to place the balls at a -lady's feet, in order that she may have them in proper position for -striking. That envious wind! It would blow my partner's beautiful -long hair about. And, when performing that kneeling operation, the -hair _would_ come fluttering about one, and getting entangled round -one's neck somehow. And then, dark tender eyes would look down with a -sweep of velvety lashes, and gaze mockingly through the silky meshes of -unruly floating hair, and one would be asked in caressing tones— - -"Oh, dear! I'm afraid I've caught you! Have I, really?" - -That game was a dreadfully embarrassing one, yet quite too delicious -and delightfully utter. - -Anglo-Maori may be said to be divided into two distinct classes—those -whose education has been chiefly or altogether English, and those who -have "tumbled up" in the kainga, in all respects like Maori. The first -are very much the fewest. A small number have been thoroughly well -educated, perhaps in Sydney or in England, and are in all respects -ladies and gentlemen of the English pattern. Some of these ladies -have married well, into the best Australian or English society. I am -told that two or three have even secured titles. Their beauty and -sprightliness would cause them to be an ornament to any society. But -the bulk of the Anglo-Maori are more like my friend Henere Tangiao, -not appreciably different from the pure Maori among whom their lot is -cast, save in a more Caucasian physique and a lighter complexion. - -Intermarriage between the races is generally considered to be a very -good and desirable thing by the Maori. Not that they hold themselves -in any degree inferior to the Pakeha, or think a Maori girl elevated -by wedding one; but they are aware of their own coming extinction as a -race, and they think that intermarriage might serve to perpetuate Maori -blood. It will be remembered that our native neighbours in the Kaipara -are strongly inclined to this view. - -Settlers look upon mixed marriages with different feelings. I think -that most of us are in favour of them theoretically, but perhaps a less -number care to regard them from a nearer point of view. There are some, -of course, who are violently opposed to them in any case. But there is -here none of that _caste_ feeling which prevails in India against the -Eurasians, or in America and the West Indies against negro admixture. - -Nearly all such alliances have been between Pakeha men and Maori women. -There have been instances of Englishwomen marrying men of the other -race, but they have been very rare, nor do I recollect any such case -myself. An Englishwoman, even of the lowest class, would find it -difficult to reconcile herself to the life of the wharè and to the -abject servitude, which is the lot of even the helpmate of an ariki. -The condition in which they keep their wives is even yet little better -than it used to be in former days. Moreover, there would always be the -fear of polygamy. - -Polygamy is not often met with now among the Maori, yet it is not -entirely extinct, though it has become somewhat unofficial in kind. The -missionaries set their faces against it from the very first, and made -the putting away of his superfluous wives the condition of a convert's -acceptance for baptism. They seem, indeed, to have carried their -opposition to polygamy to rather too great a length, forgetting that a -new phase of thought, when it operates practically, should be a gradual -growth, if its effect is to be deep and permanent. - -Under the first strong influence of conversion the Maori readily gave -in to missionary insistence in this matter; but after awhile the old -habit reconquered them. Then came individual relapses into barbarism, -individual antagonism with the missionaries, and much division and -heart-burning. It would have been better, in my humble opinion, to -have ignored polygamy, or at least not to have pointed at it so -particularly. It would have been better to have allowed things to -remain as they were, in this respect, and to have relied on bringing -up the young generations to the Christian observance of matrimony. -Indeed, some few missionaries did adopt a line of action something like -this, and found it the wisest in the long run. - -By-and-by, the Maori began to seriously argue the matter. They took -their Bibles, which they had been taught to regard as the standard of -right and wrong, and asked the missionaries to show them where polygamy -was forbidden. Nay, was it not divinely sanctioned in many parts of the -Old Testament? - -The Maori is naturally an acute reasoner and casuist, and those -missionaries who stood out so emphatically against polygamy now -found themselves worsted on their own ground. The arguments that -have prevailed throughout Christendom in favour of monogamy were not -accepted by the Maori. They wanted direct Biblical ordinance, and as -that was not forthcoming they assumed that polygamy was lawful, or, at -least, some of them chose to do so. Then there was great joy. There -were marriages and giving in marriage, after the good old custom. -Probably, this controversy on the matrimonial question was one of the -causes that afterwards eventuated in Hau-hau. - -In these days polygamy is very rare, chiefly because the men outnumber -the women, and because Maori find it expedient to conform to Pakeha -custom. I visited a hapu once, whose chief had three wives; but he was -an earnest Christian—_à la Maori_. He held prayers morning and evening -in front of his wharè, at which all the people of the kainga attended. -He conducted a long and lugubrious service every Sunday, expounding the -Scriptures and preaching like a Spurgeon. He kept the Sabbath rigidly -sacred, and interlarded his conversation with texts. Altogether he was -a model man, never getting drunk except when he visited the township, -never cheating anybody unless he was doing business with him. - -_Bonâ-fide_ marriages between white men and Maori women are seldomer -contracted now than they used to be. I knew a man whose Maori bride -brought him ten thousand acres of rich land as a dowry. She was a -delicious little brown innocent, just such another as Mrs. Tangiao. -Another man I knew married a Maori girl out of gratitude, she having -saved his life from her own people in the early warlike days. She had -acted towards him in a similar way to that in which Rahab of Jericho -did to the Hebrew spies. - -Alliances of a less enduring kind than these are matters of not -infrequent occurrence. I have hinted at the hospitable customs of the -primitive kainga, and the peculiar freedom, in certain respects, of -unmarried Maori girls. It is not necessary to say any more on that -head, I think. In justice to the race, it is only fair to say, that no -more faithful or virtuous _wife_ exists than a Maori one. Derelictions -of conjugal duty both were and are very rarely known, in spite of -somewhat arbitrary match-making. Such are a heinous crime in Maori eyes. - -There are certain drawbacks that are apt to mar the conjugal felicity -of the Pakeha who weds a Maori. He is received as a member of the hapu -from which he has selected his bride, and is looked upon by all Maori -as being in a closer relationship to them than other Pakeha. This adds -other inconveniences to those arising from your wife's predilection for -squatting on the drawing-room floor and smoking her pipe; her careless -_negligé_ in dress, except on state occasions; and her many little -delightful and eccentric propensities. For, you have married not only -your wife, but also all her relations and kindred. - -They will visit you, twenty or thirty at a time, and stop a week or -longer. They will slaughter your pigs and sheep, dig up your potatoes -and kumera, and feed freely upon them. Your grocery bill will attain -to frightful proportions; and the friendly mob will camp all over -the house, just how and where it pleases them. If you resent these -proceedings, your wife will cry and upbraid you, and might even desert -you altogether, while the hapu would look upon it as the deadliest -insult. As a _per contra_, your wife's tribe will stand by you in all -difficulties and dangers. They will fight for you with pleasure, will -die for you and with you if required; and a slight put upon you by -anybody whatsoever, is put upon the tribe in equal degree. - -You may cajole these ladies and gentlemen into helping you with any -work that is going forward, but the perquisites they will take to -themselves will be safe to ruin you. You may return their visits, -as much as you like, but that will not reimburse you much. All that -remains to you to do is to sell your land, and to remove to some -distant part of the country, where there are no Maori. You must, in -such a case, carefully prepare some artful and specious tale to satisfy -your numerous relations-in-law, and mitigate their grief at losing you. -Lastly, you must not take your wife out of New Zealand, for she will -pine, and possibly die, if you do. - -Although the old Maori are commonly spoken of as savages, they -certainly did possess a degree of civilization of their own. They had -a traditional history, a well-defined mythology, a code of laws based -on the tapu, a perfect tribal organization, industries and arts of no -mean kind. Among them were men, renowned long after their death in song -and story, as great statesmen, warriors, poets, artists, and so on. -Their dwellings are of simple construction, but they are superior to -Irish cabins by a long way. Many of them were extravagantly decorated -with carvings and ornaments. The fortified pa were planned with -surprising engineering skill, and could be defended against English -troops. Even where artillery was brought against the pa, the earthworks -made the siege no light work. Sometimes our troops were actually -repulsed from before these forts, as at Ohaeawae and Okaehau. - -The Maori cultivations were often extensive, though, before the coming -of Captain Cook, the articles cultivated were not of great variety. -Taro, the farinaceous bulb of an arum; Kumera, the tuber of a species -of convolvulus; and Hue, the calabash or gourd, were the crops; to -which Cook and those who came after him added potatoes, maize, wheat, -oats and barley, turnips, cabbages, peas, beans, fruit-trees, and many -other things, which were sedulously grown and spread among their tribes -by the Maori. - -In many ways the Maori proved their patient and careful industry. -They made for themselves tools of all kinds—axes, adzes, chisels, -knives—out of flint and jade, shells and shark's-teeth; and they -also contrived various formidable weapons. Many of these articles are -accurately curved and shaped, polished and carved. With tools of this -nature the Maori levelled the gigantic kauri pine, and cut from its -trunk the ponderous waka-taua, or war-canoe; cut and shaped with an -accuracy that would stand the test of nice geometrical instruments. - -The war-canoes were fitted with richly carved prows, stern-posts, and -side-pieces, often inlaid with shells and greenstone. They were sixty -or seventy feet in length; and would hold over a hundred men. With -forty or fifty paddles on a side, one of these canoes could be driven -through the water with all the velocity of a steam-ram or racing skiff. - -Not only canoes, but also the fronts of dwelling and council-houses -were adorned with elaborate workmanship. Then there was a kind of -wooden statuary, which was set up in kainga and wahi-tapu; and there -were picture-writings cut upon rocks and trees. Weapons, tools, -personal ornaments, tiki—or image-amulets—and so forth, showed -very great care and cleverness in design. The ornamentation was very -intricate, was finished off with surprising nicety, and was executed -in a style that cannot but excite our wonder. For, it is to be -recollected, that the Maori possessed no metal tools or instruments. - -Grotesque and curious as is Maori sculpture, it yet clearly evidences -some artistic leanings. There was doubtless some sort of Society of -Arts among the tribes. For, certain men or women, peculiarly skillful -in some special particular, became persons of great renown throughout -the land, and their services were sought after by favour, force, and -fraud. - -The highest branch of art, or, at least, what was esteemed to be such, -was the Maori heraldry, and its emblazonment upon the living skin. -Artists skilled in this making of the moku—tattooers, as we Pakeha -call them—were tremendous dignitaries. Their talents were a gift, were -held to be genius, and no means were hesitated at which could secure -one of these persons to a tribe. Battles were fought for them, and -poetical biographies of some of them are even yet current. Such was the -Art-cultus of the Maori. - -In pursuing the subject of ancient Maori civilization, there are many -points worthy of note. Dress is one of these. Although the Maori were -accustomed to walk about completely naked—save and except the moku on -their face, chest, and thighs—yet they had garments that were always -donned on state occasions, at night, and when the weather was cold. - -Of course they had no idea of indecency, and, indeed, have only a -forced and artificial sense of it now. Naked as they were in person, -they were still more natural in mind, and this quality is still -notably apparent. It is not possible for a Maori to talk for five -minutes without uttering words, metaphors, and allusions, that to us -convey the most revolting and shocking notions, though the speaker is -entirely unconscious of anything but the simplest matter of fact. The -language, as colloquially used, is full of stumbling blocks to English -refinement, and it is for this reason, doubtless, that few settlers' -wives and daughters learn it at all, even though they may be living in -the midst of Maori. - -The garments of the Maori consisted of a breech-clout and a toga, made -principally from phormium fibre. I have called the chief universal -garment a _toga_, instead of giving it the ordinary designation of -"mat," or "blanket," because it was worn after the manner of the old -Roman toga; and, though a heavy, bundling kind of dress, it gave a -certain sort of dignity to the wearer. These two articles were all the -garments proper, but several ornaments were added to them. A kind of -helmet was occasionally worn; and sandals were used by persons with -delicate feet, when walking over rough ground. - -The mats were made in considerable variety, of dog-skins, and of -flax-fibre. Some were very elaborate and adorned with fringes, tassels, -and embroidery, being dyed of various colours. Some, made from a -choice species of phormium, were soft and silky. Into the threads of -others were woven feathers of the kiwi and other birds. These two last -kinds were highly prized. - -The whole process of making the simplest of these dresses shows a -degree of patient, industrial enterprise, highly creditable to the -operators. First of all, the flax (_Phormium tenax_) was gathered, -dried, macerated, beaten, and the fibre picked out with the fingers, -combed, bleached, and otherwise prepared. By these arduous and -laborious processes it was entirely freed from the gum which permeates -the leaf, and could be wound into thread of various degrees of -fineness. That accomplished, it was woven into cloth, upon a frame -of wooden pins stuck into the ground. Fringes and embroidery were -manufactured with the simplest possible appliances, and the juice of -sundry trees, plants, and berries, yielded good dyes of different hues. - -The kaitaka, a toga with a silky gloss and texture, was very highly -esteemed; but a still rarer and most valuable garment was the Weweru -mo te huru kiwi, or toga of kiwi's feathers. This was an ample robe of -woven flax, upon the outside of which were the feathers. Now, as each -feather of the kiwi is about two or three inches long, and only a line -or so in breadth—more like a coarse hair than any other feather, in -fact—and as each feather was separately worked into the texture of -the flax, and as these feathers were so plentifully disposed upon the -mat as to give it the appearance of thick fur, some idea may be gained -of the prodigious labour involved in making such a toga, from first to -last. - -The commonest and coarsest mat took a woman six months to make; the -kaitaka took much longer; while the feather robe occupied the exclusive -time of several women for a period of two or three years. But then, it -was a grand property, lasting not only a lifetime, but capable of being -handed down from generation to generation. It was quite impervious to -rain or wind, and though somewhat bulky, was of light weight. Besides -these, a chief prized his robe of long-haired white and yellow dogskins. - -There was another kind of closely-woven dress, te pukaha, which -served as defensive armour against javelins and lances, before the -introduction of muskets. There were various differences of make, -indicating a species of sumptuary law; but all the dresses, of men and -women, of chiefs and slaves, had the same common characteristics. - -The Maori neither are nor were at any time pinched for food. An -erroneous impression has gone abroad that their cannibalism was the -result of a lack of anything else to eat. This is a totally wrong -idea, as I had occasion to point out in a former chapter, when speaking -as to the causes which are bringing about the extinction of the race. -The act of cannibalism was a part of the system of warfare; it was the -last outrage upon an always detested foeman; the utmost indignity that -revenge could heap upon the enemy. Although, in the earlier part of -this century, no less than fifteen hundred prisoners of war were killed -and eaten at a single feast by Hongi and his army, and six hundred -on another occasion, yet the last authenticated act of cannibalism -took place in 1843; and, nowadays, Maori rather avoid allusion to the -subject. But it was only the prisoners of war who were eaten, and that -usually just after the battle, before the heat and intoxication of the -conquerors' spirits had evaporated. They never ate human flesh at other -times, and prisoners whose lives were spared became slaves—an easy -kind of slavery it was, too. - -In the primitive times, should the crops of a hapu fail them, or become -too soon exhausted, there was always fish in the rivers and fern-root -in the valleys, so that, however "hard up" a man might be, he would -not need to starve very long. Though the moa was probably very scarce, -if not entirely extinct, towards the beginning of this century, yet -the bush abounded with birds that the Maori knew well how to catch. -Pigeons, nestors, parrots, rail, kiwi, swamp-fowl, water-fowl, owls, -parson-birds, all these and more were eaten; while the native dogs and -rats were held to be great dainties. The former were bred in numbers, -and were fattened up for food, and their skins were highly valued for -togas and mantles. An elaborate code of ceremonies, songs, and customs -are connected with rat-hunting, showing that rats were so numerous as -to be no inconsiderable part of the food supply. - -Then there were certain grubs and insects that were held to be delicate -morsels. The loathsome larva of the weta, a large white grub, is -speared on a stick, toasted at the fire, and eaten with a silent -rapture that my pen could only feebly pourtray. - -In the bays and tidal rivers are the mango or sharks—the most -highly-prized food-fish—the tamure or schnapper, the whapuka or -rock-cod, the kahawai or mackerel, the porahi or herring, the kanae -or mullet, the patiki or sole, and many others. On the shores are -oysters, mussels, cockles, mutton-fish, crabs, and other shell-fish in -profuse abundance. In the fresh-water creeks are eels (tuna), lampreys -(pipiharau), and whitebait (inanga). - -Among indigenous vegetable productions came first the universal -fern-root (_Pteris esculenta_), which was cooked in various ways -and made into a kind of bread. Then there was the tap-root of the -cabbage-tree palm, yielding a highly farinaceous food when baked; the -pith or young shoot of the nikau; the root of the toi; the root of the -raupo, and the pollen of the same plant made into bread; the berries of -hinau, similarly treated; the flower and fruit of kiekie or tawhera; -a species of seaweed boiled with the juice of tupakihi berries, and -forming a nutritious jelly; some orchids, green spinach, cresses, and -fungi; the inner stems of mamaku or tree-fern; the berries of poroporo, -tawa-tawa, koraka, kahi katea, rimu, and other trees. - -The expressed juice of the tupakihi berry is called by the Maori -tutu. It is a pleasantly insipid drink when fresh made, but appears -to undergo a slight fermentation when allowed to stand some time, and -when mixed with some other ingredient. The seeds are always carefully -eliminated from this preparation, as they contain a dangerous narcotic -principle. The old Maori say, that in ancient times, before going -into battle, they used to eat taro to make them strong and enduring, -shark-meat to make them ferocious, and used to drink tutu to make them -brave and unflinching. - -The Maori cooking operations were, in former times, always performed by -women and slaves; now, though women are invariably the cooks in the -kainga, yet no man considers it beneath him to prepare his own food -when obliged to do so. Most of the old methods of cooking have fallen -very much into disuse, since the modern Maori possess kettles, iron -camp-ovens, billies, and other Pakeha appliances; but still, in remote -spots, one may come across a relic of the olden time. - -The only method of boiling formerly employed was by dropping heated -stones into the water contained in a calabash or rind of the hue. -Expert as they were in this process, it was still a rather toilsome -and ineffective one, and in these days of kettles and pans it is never -returned to. Fish and meat were frequently roasted on the clear side -of the fire in the ordinary hunters' fashion, but the great national -culinary institution was the earth-oven, the kopa or hangi. - -A pit was dug in the ground, one foot or more in depth, and suited in -size to the quantity of provisions to be cooked. In this hole a fire -was built, completely filling it, and in the fire a number of pebble -stones were heated. When the fire had reached a proper heat it was -entirely raked out of the pit. A layer of the red-hot stones was laid -along the bottom, by means of improvised tongs of green wood, and these -were carefully and quickly covered with certain green leaves. Then the -pork or fish or potatoes, previously washed, cleaned, and wrapped up in -green flax, were put into the hangi; a quantity of the red-hot stones -were put over and round it; water was poured over the whole; green -flax mats were hastily heaped on top and tucked in at the sides; and, -lastly, the pit was filled in with earth well stamped and beaten down. - -In the course of an hour or more, according to the size of the joint, -the hangi was opened, the provisions lifted out, the wrappings -unfolded, and their contents placed in baskets of green flax, and thus -dinner was served. The steam, generated under pressure in the ovens, -was forced into every fibre of the articles cooking, so that these -were most thoroughly done. Whole pigs—and whole human bodies in the -cannibal times—are cooked in these hangi to perfection. I have eaten -meat and vegetables done in them, that could not have been better -cooked by a _chef de cuisine_ decorated with the red ribbon of _la -Légion d'honneur_. - -It was one of the old customs never to eat in the living-houses. -Cooking was always performed in the open air, and usually is so still. -A rude shelter protected the fire in rainy weather; and at such times -the meal was eaten under the verandah of the wharè. - -Burial customs among the old Maori were peculiar and complicated, and -differed much among various hapu. In the case of slaves and inferiors, -the bodies were thrown aside in some place where they could not be -offensive to the living, or they were hastily interred on the beach, or -somewhere in the forest. - -The death of a chief, or rangatira of note, was an affair of great -importance. It was announced by loud wailing and crying—the Maori idea -of grief being a noisy and demonstrative one. The corpse was washed -and painted, dressed in the finest garments and ornaments possessed -by the defunct, and laid in state in the verandah of the wharè, with -a great display of weapons and trophies of various kinds around it. -All the near relations of the deceased assembled to cry over him, and -many—particularly of the ladies of his family—gashed their faces, -breasts, and arms, with shells and obsidian knives. It was thought to -be the most decorous and decent show of mourning to have the face and -breast completely covered with the dried and clotted blood resulting -from the numerous self-inflicted gashes. - -After a day or two of these ceremonies, the body was taken by the -tohunga and his assistants within the sacred grove, or wahi tapu. -There, still wrapped in his most cherished robes, with all his -ornaments, weapons, and ensigns of dignity around him, with baskets of -food to support him on his journey to the other world—and, in olden -times, with a strangled wife and slave or two—the corpse was left, -either placed in the fork of a tree, on an ornamental platform or -stage, or buried in the ground. - -Meanwhile, during the progress of these ceremonies, many karakia, or -prayers, were uttered; and the multitude of friends, relations, and -followers assembled outside the wahi tapu made the air resound with -their frantic shouts and yells, with the firing of guns, and every -possible kind of noise. When the body had been thus deposited and left, -a great feast took place, something after the manner of an Irish wake. - -In the course of a couple of years or so after, when the tohunga deemed -that decomposition was complete, a second series of ceremonies took -place. This was called the hahunga, or scraping of the bones. Amid -renewed wailing and weeping from the assembled friends, the bones of -the dead were collected by the tohunga. They were scraped clean with -a good deal of ceremony and karakia, were painted, garnished with -feathers, wrapped up in rich mats, and abundantly wept over. Finally, -they were deposited high up in some sacred tree, or in a fissure of the -rock, or upon an elevated stage profusely ornamented, and then they -were done with. - -Many burying-places still exist, filled with these weird mementoes of -the past. Of course no Maori, however Christianized or civilized he -may be, will knowingly trespass within their limits; but Pakeha do so -frequently. Collectors of "curios" have found in these places a rich -field for treasure-seeking; but, even at the present day, and among the -most law-abiding tribes, it is by no means safe to go curio-hunting in -the old and apparently forgotten wahi tapu. The Maori are intensely -averse from allowing any stranger to penetrate these places, and if -they caught any one despoiling their dead, it would rouse a flame among -them not easily to be appeased. Certain lands upon which are situated -such sacred spots are not to be bought for love or money from their -Maori owners. Still, as the rising generation steps into the shoes of -its fathers, prejudices of this kind give way before the influence of -Pakeha gold. - -Some land, in a settled district that I know well, was much sought -after a year or two ago by persons settling in the neighbourhood, it -being of particularly choice quality; but the central part of this -block being a burial-place, the old chief, who was the principal -owner, refused large offers, and would not part with an acre of the -sacred soil for any inducement that could be held out to him. Lately, -however, he died, and his young heirs were persuaded—not without much -difficulty, though—to sell the block to an English settler. - -Nowadays, the burial of a man of rank is conducted upon different -principles. I witnessed the interment of a lady of high rank among -the Ngapuhi, at Waimate, which may serve to illustrate modern customs -in this respect. The deceased, though externally differing but little -from the usual dirty, repulsive-looking, and hag-like appearance of -old Maori women, was yet a personage of great note and consequence. -She was the last lineal descendant of a great chief, and possessed all -the authority of a queen or princess-absolute herself. Consequently, -when she died, the hapu—or section of the tribe—of which she was -the undisputed head resolved to celebrate the occasion with the most -gorgeous obsequies it was in their power to get up. - -The body was laid in state and wailed over, but there was not much -cutting of faces done, only a sort of compromise between the old custom -and the usages of a more enlightened age—a scratch or two here and -there, made by the most conservative among the mourners. A coffin was -made, or procured, and a rich pall of black velvet and white silk -covered it. The procession then set out for Waimate, distant some eight -or ten miles from the deceased's kainga. - -The coffin was borne on a litter between two horses, and the procession -was formed by several hundred mounted Maori, of both sexes and all -ages, all dressed in their best attire, some with crape scarves, but -mostly without. They proceeded in a long straggling line, the coffin -being borne along in front, and in that manner wound over the ranges -and through the bush towards the settlement and mission-church of -Waimate. - -At times there was much cheerful laughter and talking in the -procession, and parties would suddenly dash out of the ranks for a -furious gallop. Then there would be a mournful wave pass over the -cavalcade, and long-drawn wails and cries of sorrow would break forth -from all. This again would alternate with sudden gaiety; and so, in -such manner, the churchyard was reached. The horses were tethered all -round the churchyard fence, and their riders, augmented by a crowd of -others who had assembled on foot, and by the whole population of the -settlement, entered the church. - -The service was conducted in the ordinary manner of the Church of -England. But when the coffin was lowered into the grave, the Maori who -crowded round it appeared heart-broken with grief. Tears streamed down -every face, eyes were turned up to heaven, while sobs and moans and -clamorous wailing broke out on all sides. - -A few minutes after the service was completed the sorrowing crowd -dispersed, all hastening in the direction of the village where the -funeral feast was to be held. Many of the cavaliers started off with -loud whoops, upon an exciting race at the utmost speed of their horses, -while all banished, for the time being, every semblance of grief. - -I went to the kainga in the evening, as unobtrusively as possible, to -see how the feasting was conducted. Men and women sat, stood, lay, -or lounged about, clustering round the fires and ovens every now and -then to do some feeding, or laughing, chatting, smoking, and generally -enjoying themselves. But, every now and then, some one would set up a -loudly-chanted lament, and instantly all would crouch upon the ground -in a sitting posture, and, while the tears fell in abundance from -their eyes, would wail and rock themselves about in the most terrible -anguish of grief, apparently. In a minute or two this would subside, -and all would return at once, and without an effort, to their former -cheerfulness. - -O'Gaygun, who had accompanied me, said that if there had only been -a fiddler present, to play _The Coina_ or _Savournah Deelish_, the -resemblance to a wake in "ould Oireland" would have been complete; for -"lashins of whiskey was goin', annyhow!" - -In this manner several days and nights were spent. I am afraid to -say how many sheep and pigs were killed, how many tons of potato and -kumera, and sacks of flour, were devoured; but the total, I know, -was something prodigious. The stores at Ohaeawae and Waitangi did a -roaring trade in supplying tea, sugar, tobacco, liquor, and the other -requirements of the feasters. - -There was a very singular custom prevalent among the Maori called -the moru. If a misfortune of any kind happened to a man, all his -neighbours, headed by his nearest and dearest friends, instantly came -down upon him and pillaged him of everything he possessed. - -In 1827, Mr. Earle, who resided some time in New Zealand, and -afterwards published a narrative of his experiences, relates that the -houses or huts belonging to himself and his companions on Kororareka -Beach accidentally caught fire. The fire took place at a rather -critical moment, just when a number of Maori had arrived to do battle -with the Kororareka natives, who were Earle's allies. Directly the -fire broke out, both parties suspended preparations for hostilities -and rushed upon the devoted little settlement, which they pillaged of -everything that could be carried off. Earle and his party could do -nothing to prevent them, and they were thus stripped of the greater -part of their possessions, according to the custom of the moru. - -A peculiarity of the Maori race is the singular power that imagination -has over them. It seems, indeed, to take practical effect, and the -suddenness with which the will can operate is not less startling than -the action so induced. - -A Maori can throw himself into a transport of rage, grief, joy, or -fear, at a moment's notice. This is not acting either, it is grim -reality, as many an instance proves. For example, there is Hau-hau. -The principal manifestation in that singular new religion is the -ecstasy and excitement into which whole congregations appear to throw -themselves. There is something akin to the mesmeric phenomena in the -extraordinary gusts of feeling that sweep over a Hau-hau conventicle. -The leader works himself up first, and then the rest follow. They -shout, they scream, they roll on the ground, they weep, they groan, -and, while in this state, appear insensible to every external influence -but the strange excitement that possesses them. - -Any Maori can die when he likes. He wills it, and the fact is -accomplished. He says, perhaps, "I am going to die on Wednesday next!" -and when the day comes, he really goes into the bush, lays down and -expires. - -Then they can weep at will. A tangi (weeping) can be performed by -any Maori at a moment's notice. Though they are a cheerful and -laughter-loving people, they make the tangi a frequent ceremony. A -Maori will be laughing and talking in the greatest glee and high -spirits, when he is suddenly accosted by a friend of his whom he may -not have seen for some time. Instantly the two will crouch upon the -ground with faces close together, and, rocking their bodies from side -to side, wailing and sobbing, the tears will drop from their eyes and -roll down their cheeks more abundantly than most Britons would think -possible; like a shower of summer rain, in fact. - -This is the ordinary mode of recognition of friends, founded, no -doubt, upon the insecurity of life that formerly prevailed. Partings -are effected in the same way; and on all occasions where grief is -really felt, or where it is considered necessary or in accordance with -etiquette to put on the semblance of grief, a tangi takes place. - -Modern usage, however, following even more closely in the European -style with every succeeding generation, has rather spoilt this among -other customs. That is to say, most young Maori of the period do not -tangi unless they are really affected with the emotion of grief, -although they do not seem to have lost the power of weeping at will. - -One of our neighbours, who had formed a close intimacy with the Maori -of the district, went home on a visit to England. We heard that he -intended to return in the ill-fated ship _Cospatrick_, and when the -news arrived of the terrible disaster which overtook that vessel, we -mourned our friend as among the lost. - -A party of his Maori friends arrived at his farm, and held there a sort -of combined tangi and prayer-meeting. When he finally turned up, having -luckily come out in another ship, the Maori assembled from all sides, -and so warmly did they congratulate him on his safety, that they were -obliged to hold another tangi to give proper effect to their feelings. -Though there may seem to be something childlike and pleasing about this -custom theoretically, I cannot say that it is particularly agreeable in -practice or to participate in. - -The old Maori method of salutation was to press the noses together. -Like many more old customs, it is now nearly quite forgotten; the -Pakeha handshaking and the Pakeha kissing having altogether superseded -it. Only once was I subjected to the nose-pressing process, which was -done to me by a very old rangatira,—our very good friend the Rev. -Tama-te-Whiti, in fact—who took that means of showing a more than -ordinary esteem for me on a certain occasion elsewhere spoken of. - -In these days the Maori no longer manufacture any of their old tools, -weapons, ornaments, clothes, etc. They now buy Pakeha goods at the -stores, and prefer them to their old appliances; in fact, the latter -are becoming very scarce, since the bulk of them are eagerly bought up -by collectors as "curios." Very few of the waka-taua, or war-canoes, -are now in native possession, though, until recently, there used to be -a race of them at the Auckland regatta on Anniversary Day (January 29). - -The various sorts of ordinary canoes are still plentiful enough, though -they are probably destined to disappear before very long. The Maori -do not make them now, they build or purchase boats made after the -Pakeha fashion. The old canoe is an ungainly and uncomfortable vessel, -hollowed out of the trunk of a single tree. It rides flat on the water, -and is very seaworthy, being with difficulty upset, and going as well -when full of water as when dry. The canoes are driven by slender -spear-shaped paddles, that are dug into the water, as it were; with -them a great speed can be attained, nevertheless. The ordinary canoes -will carry from a dozen to a score of persons; but some are larger, -like the war-canoes, and would hold a hundred or more, pretty tightly -packed, though. - -The race at the Auckland regatta used to be an exciting sight. The -canoes, with their high, carved prows and stern-posts, were richly -decorated with all sorts of barbaric ornaments. (It was only the -waka-taua that were so furnished, ordinary canoes not having prows, -stern-posts, or bulwarks attached to them.) They were crammed with -rowers, chosen from among the strongest men of the contesting hapu. -At the stern, upon a sort of deck, stood the chief, costumed in his -bravest robes and ornaments, and carrying a patu, truncheon, or long -wand in his hand. - -The race would start with boat-chaunts among the paddlers, gradually -enlivened by jibing shouts at the rival canoes. Then, as the race -grew hotter, the foam would begin to fly as the paddles dashed up the -water; the chiefs would stamp and rage on their platforms, shouting -encouragement to their own men and yelling defiance to the others. When -the termination of the race drew near, the yells and screams would -be deafening, the energy of the paddlers exerted to the utmost, the -gesticulations and cries of the chiefs only to be compared to those -of frenzied madmen, and the excitement and fury of all concerned would -seem only to be ended in bloodshed. - -But all this excitement would quiet down after the goal was won, and -no fighting or ill-feeling was the consequence. Nowadays, at the -various regattas held on the rivers at different times, craft of all -kinds, owned and manned by Maori, will amicably contest with those of -settlers; and, whether in the whaleboat or the skiff, the Maori are -formidable opponents to the Pakeha, who by no means invariably snatch -the prize. - -In common with the disappearance of the canoe is that of many other -articles of native manufacture. Their old tools and weapons are -rarities even among themselves, having long ago been bartered away for -the more useful instruments of the Pakeha; and the art of making them -has been forgotten. Even the almost sacred merè ponamu is a thing of -the past. It was a large axe formed of "greenstone," or transparent -green jade, often exquisitely shaped and polished. It was sometimes -mounted on an elaborate handle, much carved and ornamented; or, in -most cases, it was shaped in the short club-like form of the favourite -weapon, all in one piece, and adapted for one hand. - -The merè ponamu was the special weapon of the ariki, and was emblematic -of his dignity. A good deal of sanctity attached to it, and it was held -to be a tribal treasure. When defeated or threatened with its loss, the -ariki or tohunga would hide the merè; and often the hiding-place would -be unknown, since the chief might be killed before he could reveal -it to his successor. In such a case the most careful and painstaking -search would be afterwards entered upon by the tribe, who would even -continue it for years, until the treasure was discovered. - -It will be remembered how Tuwharè hid the tiki of the Ngatewhatua, -after the capture of Marahemo by Hongi. A tiki is a grotesque image, -carved out of the same stone—ponamu—as the merè. Much the same degree -of sanctity attached to either. Merè made of wood, bone, or other kinds -of stone had, of course, no especial value. When a new ariki was called -to lead the tribe, he was invested with the merè ponamu with much -important ceremony, just as Turkish sultans are girded with the sword -of Othman, in token of their assumption of supreme power. - -Not many years ago, it chanced that a gum-digger accidentally found a -merè ponamu in the bush. The first person he happened to meet was a -Maori, to whom he showed his "find." The Maori examined it carefully, -and questioned the digger as to the precise locality in which he had -found it. He then asked the digger to sell it to him, which, after -some demur, the latter eventually consented to do, the price he put on -the "curio" being three notes (£3). The Maori went off to fetch the -money; and by-and-by returned to the digger's camp with one or two of -his compatriots. The sale was then concluded, and after the Pakeha -had expressed himself as satisfied with the bargain, he was somewhat -chagrined at being told that the merè was the long-lost weapon of a -great chief, which had been unsuccessfully searched for during long -years, and that, had he demanded three hundred pounds instead of only -three, the tribe would have found means to raise it, so much did they -prize the relic. - -It speaks highly for the sense of justice and peaceableness of the -modern Maori that no thought of forcibly taking possession of the merè -seems to have occurred to these men, although the digger was alone, and -they were numerous. How different might the climax have been had they -been Irish peasants instead of semi-civilized Maori! - -The Maori have no sense of honour, but they have a keen love of -justice, which suffices to take its place. Manifestations of their -principles of equity are often very amusing to us; but they might -sometimes serve to improve the decisions of our law-courts, despite -their crudity. They are generally based on the idea of utu, or -compensation, and are deliciously simple. Thus, adultery is now -punished among the Maori themselves in the following fashion:— - -The chiefs hold a korero, or palaver, over the offenders, and settle -the amount of utu to be paid. The man has to pay a fine to the husband, -father, or nearest relative of the woman; she, in like manner, is -sentenced to pay a similar sum to the wife, mother, or nearest relative -of the man. If a culprit has no property, he or she has to go to work -among the Pakeha, or dig gum, or raise it in some such fashion. There -never seems to be any attempt to evade a fine of this kind; it is -always faithfully paid to the last penny. - -A Maori stole a bag of sugar from a store. He was pulled up before the -local magistrate, and sent for a month's imprisonment. When the term -expired and he returned to the tribe, the chiefs held a korero over -him as usual. To their ideas of equity, the imprisonment counted for -nothing, it was simply one of the stupid Pakeha customs, and had merely -delayed the course of real (Maori) justice. Accordingly, the thief was -sentenced to pay the value of the stolen sugar to the proprietor of -the store. Next, he had to pay utu to the same person; and, finally, he -had to pay utu to the chiefs as representing the tribe, to compensate -them for the loss of credit the community had sustained through his -offence. - -The following incident occurred in a district not otherwise alluded to -in these sketches, and the locality of which is purposely concealed. -Should it meet the eye of any person concerned, I beg he will hold me -excused for recording it. It could only be identified by himself. I -insert it simply because it is the best instance within my knowledge of -Maori justice, and of modern Maori manners in this particular. - -There were two brothers who had settled in a remote district. The -elder of the two had occasion to go over to Sydney on business for -some months, and left the younger to manage the farm in his absence. -The young fellow had only a hired lad to bear him company, besides -occasional visits from some of his chums among the neighbouring -settlers. By-and-by the lad left him, and he hired a couple of Maori -girls to do some of the necessary work. - -I have described what Maori girls are like, and so, here, close -intercourse very soon had its natural result, and human nature -triumphed over Pakeha morality. The girls went back to their kainga -after a time, and, after the wont of their race, made no secret of -anything that had occurred. - -Now the ariki of the little hapu had "got religion," as I have heard -it phrased, and tried his best to be sanctimonious and pharisaic. He -chose to affect violent rage on hearing of the young farmer's breach -of Pakeha moral law, and sent off a demand for a large sum of money as -utu, in default of payment of which he promised to come up and burn the -farmer's house and drive off his stock. - -The settler resented and repudiated this claim for utu altogether, and, -hearing that the Maori were getting their guns ready for the raid, he -summoned all his neighbours to assist in his defence. A dozen or more -of them armed and came over to stop with him, and a very pretty little -disturbance seemed imminent. - -However, there was a clergyman who had great influence with the -hapu. At first, he probably helped to kindle the chief's ire by -inveighing against the hideous guilt of the farmer, after the manner -of unworldly clerics; but, seeing subsequently the direction things -were about to take, he altered his tactics. Knowing the Maori character -thoroughly, he took what was certainly the best possible step under the -circumstances. - -Instead of preaching against war and bloodshed, he stopped the -war-party, as it was setting off, by intimating that the house, -land, and bulk of the stock belonged to the absent brother, and that -it would, therefore, be wrong to touch it. Maori justice instantly -perceived the point, and a korero was immediately held to discuss it. -Then the chief and his advisers began to find themselves in a hopeless -muddle. They could not withdraw the claim for utu honourably—according -to their notions—and in default of it they must exact something. At -the same time, it was repugnant to their ideas of justice to meddle -with what belonged to an unoffending man, and he an absentee to boot. -So the korero lasted day after day, and the Maori could find no way out -of their dilemma. - -Meanwhile, the father of the girl who had caused the mischief, and who -was a greedy old wretch, happily cut the Gordian knot. While things -were still unsettled, he sneaked off one day alone, and made his way to -the farm. There he intimated to the young settler that he was prepared -to take five notes for his daughter's wrong, and would consider all -claims liquidated by it. The young man's blood was up, however, and he -refused to pay the fraction of a penny as utu. But some of his friends -were cooler; and after a long palaver the young fellow consented to -purchase a horse from the Maori, at a price somewhat above its value. - -Back went the outraged father to the hapu and told what he had done. -The ariki scolded him heartily for his baseness, that is to say, for -the small amount of utu he had exacted. But all were overjoyed at -the incident, which served to make a way out of the difficulty. An -ambassador was sent up to the farm with the following message from the -ariki, which I roughly translate— - -"Oh, friend! There is now peace, and things are smooth between us. Pita -is a fool, he took what was too little. That is his affair, and I have -told him my mind. You have made utu to him and the wretch is satisfied. -That ends all. I have no more to say. We are friends as before." - -And now arose a new phase of Maori character. They are always very -desirous to get up alliances between the races, and will do anything to -induce a Pakeha to marry a Maori girl. Even such informal engagements -as that just hinted at are so far from being repugnant to them, -that they generally show an increased regard for the Pakeha who is -indiscreetly amorous among their _unmarried_ women. - -The chief in this case was governed, in the first instance, by an -artificial veneer of sentiment inculcated by the new religion. Now that -this was broken through, and the vexed question of utu disposed of, -the genuine Maori feeling rose to the surface, and a warm friendliness -arose for the Pakeha—the _rangatira_ Pakeha be it remembered—who had -shown that he "liked the Maori girls." - -Accompanied by a score or so of the rangatira of his hapu, the -ariki rode over to the young settler's place. As proof of the -re-establishment of cordial relations, kitsful of peaches, melons, -kumera, taro, and other gifts were carried by the party. The young man -met them with all hospitality, killed a pig and feasted the party for a -couple of days, presented a dog to the ariki, and finally paid a return -visit to the kainga, where he was received with open arms by the entire -hapu. He has ever since remained a prime favourite with the Maori, -who, singularly enough, respected him for his line of action when the -difficulty arose, almost as much as they warmed to him for his amorous -predilection. - -Little misunderstandings of this sort now and then arise between Pakeha -and Maori, but they are generally smoothed down in some such fashion as -the above. The worst difficulties are those where Maori of different -tribes come into collision with one another, when the ancient feuds -and hatreds spring up and cause much trouble. Especially is this the -case when Christian sectarianism is an added element of bitterness and -strife. I remember an instance of this that occurred in the north in -1875 or 1876. - -There was a Land Court held in what was then quite a new district, -and at it the chiefs of a Ngapuhi hapu laid claim to a certain block, -which they had agreed to sell to a settler. But a Ngatewhatua, who was -present by the merest chance, disputed the claim on the ground that -the block formed a part of his tribal territory. The Ngapuhi ridiculed -him, and replied that their tribe under Hongi had, in former times, -conquered the Ngatewhatua and annexed their territory, leaving only a -corner for the remnant of the conquered to live on. This was according -to ancient Maori law. - -But the Ngatewhatua declared that, also in accordance with Maori usage, -the conquerors having never taken possession of the district nor -resided on any part of the block, it reverted to its original owners, -the Ngatewhatua. Both sides had thus a fair show of right, and neither -having occupied the land within the memory of man, it was difficult to -decide which had the best claim. - -The commissioner left the Maori to come to some agreement among -themselves, for he could not adjust their differences, while he was -bound to find a native owner for the block before the Crown grant -could be made out. Both sides now withdrew in great dudgeon, while the -few Pakeha in the neighbourhood began to feel somewhat nervous and -anxious as to what was to follow. - -The Ngatewhatua returned to his hapu and related all that had occurred. -A korero was immediately held and rapidly concluded. It was agreed at -once that decisive action was necessary; so the ariki ordered his men -to take their guns and other arms, to launch their boats, and proceed -with him to the township where the Land Court was being held. All the -available men of the hapu, some forty or fifty in number, were ready at -the chief's command, and at once set off; while messages were sent to -warn other communities of the Ngatewhatua, and to invite them to take -part in the coming fray. - -In due time, the ariki of the Ngatewhatua and his band arrived at the -scene of action. They rowed up the river to the township where the Land -Court was being held, and which was near the disputed block, with all -the pomp and circumstance of Maori war, so far as it was possible in -their modern civilized condition. - -Near the little township, awaiting their arrival, was a still more -numerous body of armed Ngapuhi, who greeted them with yells of -defiance. The few officials and Pakeha at the place did their best to -allay the excitement of the natives, but without success. They were -not listened to, or were told to leave things alone. This was a purely -Maori question, with which Pakeha had nothing to do; _they_ were not in -any way threatened; let them keep out of it, then. - -But the settlers knew that this faction fight, if it once took place -and resulted in bloodshed, might lead to a general conflagration among -the northern tribes. They were at their wit's end to know what to do. -It was no use sending to Auckland, for there were very few of the armed -constabulary there; and, had there been more, they could not have got -up to the scene of action within a week's time. The next best thing -that could be done had been done—messengers had been sent off post -haste to summon a certain Wesleyan missionary, who of all men had the -greatest influence with the Ngatewhatua, and would be patiently heard -by the Ngapuhi, although the hapu concerned were professedly converts -to Roman Catholicism. - -This gentleman resided near the principal Ngatewhatua kainga, and was -unluckily absent from home when the news came from the Land Court. Had -he been there, the ariki would have probably consulted him, and the war -party would consequently not have started. But he was absent on a visit -to a distant river. - -The reverend gentleman was not very popular among the scattered -settlers in the district, and had often made himself obnoxious to them, -as they considered. He had lived among the Maori many years; and, being -a somewhat narrow-minded man, seemed to look upon the settlers as -disturbers of that Christian peace which he believed had covered the -tribe among whom he ministered. However, when the emergency arose and -he received notice of the impending conflict between the rival tribes, -he proved himself equal to the occasion. Taking boat to a suitable -point, he there borrowed a horse from a farmer; and, riding at full -speed for some thirty miles across the ranges and through the bush, -arrived at the township just in the nick of time. - -Meanwhile, the rival Maori had been occupied in the usual preliminaries -to a fight. The Ngatewhatua had disembarked; and on the following day -the two parties were drawn up, facing one another, at a short distance -apart. The korero then commenced, and was kept up hour after hour -by alternate orators on either side. These delivered themselves in -the verbose and florid style customary, running up and down between -the lines, and using very unparliamentary language, I have no doubt. -The men of the two factions were seated on the ground meanwhile, -occasionally grimacing or defying each other. The modern veneer of -civilization and Christianity seemed entirely to have disappeared, -and the ancient Maori manners to have superseded it. At length, such -a pitch of rage was reached that the war-dance appeared inevitable, -and after that nothing would stop the conflict. It was just at this -juncture that the missionary rode up. Dismounting, he at once strode -between the rival lines, being greeted with growls and opprobrious -epithets by the Ngapuhi, and with cries of "Go home! Go home!" from his -own flock. - -I think I can see that scene now. In the foreground the broad surface -of the river, flowing between low banks covered with light scrub. To -the right the few houses of the little settlement, with a group of -pale-faced Pakeha, men, women, and children, anxiously awaiting the -upshot of the "muss." In front, a stretch of open land, partly grassed -and partly covered with fern, with stumps and logs here and there -visible. Behind it clumps of scrub, and, close to, the line of the -heavy bush, extending all round and covering the hill-ranges that rise -further back. - -In the centre of this scene are the two bands of Maori; brown -tatterdemalions in ragged shirts and trousers, armed with guns, and -merè, and patu, and axes, some squatting on the ground, some standing -erect, all convulsed with anger and ungovernably excited. Before each -rank is the ariki, and one or two principal men on either side. - -Between the two armies strides the tall, gaunt form of the missionary, -his arms raised and gesticulating, his grey hair and beard floating on -the wind. Heedless of his reception he begins to talk. He is a perfect -master of Maori oratory, with its long quotations from old tradition -and from the Bible, its short pithy sentences, its queer interjectional -effects. Gradually the tumult quiets down, the Maori begin to listen, -the Ngapuhi forget they are Catholics. - -For two mortal hours he talks to them, preaches at them. What arguments -he uses I cannot say; they are effective ones evidently, for there is -a perfect hush among the combatants at last, and all eyes are turned -attentively upon the speaker. Finally, he proposes an equal sharing of -the sum to be obtained for the disputed land. There is hesitation—he -enforces the point, drives it home to the minds of his hearers. Then -comes an "Ai!" from the Ngatewhatua ariki, followed by a reluctant -"Kuia!" from the Ngapuhi chief. A chorus of "Ai! Ai! Kuia! Kuia!" "Yes! -agreed!" resounds on all sides; the dispute is at an end. - -But all is not over, the happy moment must be seized by the minister -of the gospel. Standing on a little knoll between the lately hostile -taua, he slowly uncovers, raises one hand upwards, looks to heaven, -solemnly enunciates the Lord's Prayer. The effect is marvellous, -the Maori go down on their knees around him and fervently chorus -the words as he utters them, while tears stream from many eyes, and -groans of contrition break from many breasts. The prayer finished, -the missionary looks about him on the rival warriors, who now crouch -like chidden children before him. He commands them, in the Name they -have just invoked, to lay aside their weapons, and to be friends. With -unquestioning faith and simple alacrity they obey his summons, and -Ngapuhi and Ngatewhatua rush into each other's arms. - -That night a grand feast is held to cement the new-made friendship; -and next day the two chiefs go arm-in-arm to the Land Court, there -to conclude the sale of the disputed land, while the bulk of their -followers, with much friendly leave-taking, depart on their several -ways. - -So eventuated the worst difficulty of the kind that has arisen in the -North for many years. The affair made no stir beyond the district, -for "our special correspondent" was not present, while settlers and -officials had very good reasons for not giving publicity to the -matter. In view of emigration, and all the rest of it, government, and -colonists too, have a disposition to hush up any little perplexities of -such a sort; so only a short and garbled account of this narrow escape -from a battle reached the Auckland papers, which may be found in them -by those who like to look for it. - -I think this anecdote may serve to conclude my sketches of Maori -manners. It shows the childlike temper of the Maori, their easily -excited passions, quick gusts of rage, and equally ready return to -docility and good-humour. It is an instance of how modern Maori -character is driven by two widely different forces, and of how it -oscillates between two systems—the tapu Maori and the tapu Pakeha. It -illustrates with strange force—more so than any other incident which -has happened in this generation, perhaps—that wonderful power, once -so extensive and real, but now almost obsolete except in such rare -instances as this—that influence which I have previously spoken of, -and have named "the Mana of the Missionary." - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -OUR NATURALIST'S NOTE-BOOK. - - -"It is impossible to imagine, in the wildest and most picturesque -walks of Nature, a sight more sublime and majestic, or which can -more forcibly challenge the admiration of the traveller, than a New -Zealand forest,"—writes an early voyager to this country. From the -first, those who visited these shores were struck with the extent and -beauty of our forests, the size of the trees, and the wealth of the -vegetation. And, at the present day, the emigrant from Scotland or -England, brought here into the depths of the bush, fails not to feel -his inmost nature responding to the glory and the grandeur of the -scenery. - -The woodlands of Northern New Zealand may be divided into two general -classes, the heavy bush and the light bush. The first is the true -primeval forest, the growth, probably, of two or three thousand years. -This is by far the most abundant and extensive of the two. There is -nothing in Great Britain to afford comparison with it. - -The light bush, on the other hand, is not dissimilar to a very wild -and luxuriant English wood, if one excepts the difference of the -vegetation. It fills up the gullies, and covers the hill-sides, where -Maori cultivation once occupied the ground. It is by no means so -extensive as the heavy bush, but may be said to fringe it here and -there, and to border once populous rivers. These copsewoods spring -up very rapidly. Light bush that is only forty years old will rival -English woods that have stood a century, in the relative size of the -trees. The jungle is so dense that it is often almost impervious to -passage altogether, until the axe has cleared a road. It has a rich -and fresh appearance when looked at as a whole, a verdancy and wealth -of varying tints, a general beauty that seems to make our name for it -appear an ill-chosen one; for we generally call the light bush "scrub." - -The heavy bush, in these northern districts, is divisible into two -kinds. There is the kauri bush and the mixed bush. The first, as its -name implies, is forest where the kauri grows alone, or, at least, -preponderates. It has already been described. It is something solemn -and tremendous in the last degree, grand and gloomy, and even awful. -There are but few trees produced anywhere in the world that can -rival the mammoth kauri in bulk. When we consider the closeness with -which the trees stand, the uniform mightiness of their endless ranks, -stretching on over hill and dale for many a mile, it is not easy to say -where we may look to find anything to match or compare with kauri bush. - -The mixed bush is very different. Here one is in an actual land of -enchantment. Uniformity is gone; unending variety is in place of it. -The eye is almost wearied with delight, wonder, and admiration at all -around, for there is ever something new, something to prevent the sense -of monotony growing up in the mind. - -The trees are not of one size, any more than of one kind. Their -maximum girth and height fall considerably below that of the largest -kauri. Still, one may see kahikatea, kawaka, kotukutuku, matai, miro, -pukatea, puriri, rata, rimu, taraire, totara, and many another, whose -girth may be as much as thirty feet and more, perhaps; and that may -attain a hundred feet or more of height before "heading." Nor are these -trees but so many columns. There are trees that branch all round with -great domes of foliage. There are some that send several huge limbs -upshooting to the sky. There are crooked trees, gnarled trees, bare -trees and richly covered ones, leaning trees and fallen trees, a -confusion and profusion of arboreal forms. - -There is exuberant vegetation above, around, below. Waist-deep in a -rich, rare fernery you stand, and, if you have an artistic soul, gaze -rapturously about you. From the heights you peer down into the gullies, -look abroad over distant sweeps of river, glance through vistas of -greenery, over panoramas of wild woodland beauty, carrying your sight -away to the far-off hills bathed in sunshine; and all is mantled with -the glorious woods. - -The mighty trunks and monster limbs of the trees about you are -covered with huge masses of moss, shrouded in climbing ivy-ferns, -festooned with flowering creepers, and covered with natural hanging -gardens to their lofty summits. Around you are the varied forms and -colours of more than a hundred different shrubs and trees, evergreen, -and flower-bearing in their seasons. There is the cabbage-tree -palm, with bare shank and top-knot; the nikau palm, with weird and -wondrous frondage; the lancewood, upright and slender, with crest of -copper-tinted hair-like leaves; the fern-tree, a vast umbrella of -emerald green. There is the twisting squirming rata; the gaunt and -powerful kahikatea; the golden kowhai; the dark velvet-covered rimu; -the feathery red tawai; the perfumy mangiao; and more that it would -take days to particularize. Flowers of bright tint load the trees or -shrubs that bear them—scarlet, white, crimson, orange, yellow, blue; -and hanging creepers shower festooned cataracts of foliage and blossom -down from middle air. And everywhere are ferns, ferns, ferns! abundant, -luxuriant, and of endless variety. - -You stroll in perfect safety through this gorgeous temple of nature. -There is nothing harmful, nothing to fear in all our paradisaic -wilderness. No snake, no scorpion, no panther; no danger from beast, or -bird, or reptile, or hostile man; nothing to cause the apprehension of -the timidest lady. Only a pig, maybe, rushing frantically off in terror -at your approach; only a mosquito, sometimes, to remind you you are -mortal. - -Our Brighter Britain is the natural home of the poet and the artist. -Not the least doubt about that. We shall develop great ones some -day here. Even the Maori, originally a bloodthirsty and ferocious -savage, is deeply imbued with the poetry of the woods. His commonest -phraseology shows it. "The month when the pohutukawa flowers;" "the -season when the kowhai is in bloom;" so he punctuates time. And the -years that are gone he softly names "dead leaves!" - -There are over a hundred distinct species of trees indigenous to this -country, and goodness knows how many shrubs and other plants. Sir -J. D. Hooker has classified our flora, though doubtless not without -omissions. We, the inhabitants of our shanty, are trying to study the -natural history of our adopted home. What we have learnt of it—not -much, perhaps, yet more than many settlers seem to care to know—we -place in our note-book, which I now set forth for all and sundry to -criticize. - -The Kauri (_Dammara Australis_) is the king of the forest, and must -have foremost place. It has already been described fully, in the -chapter on our special products, in which I also spoke of kauri-gum, -the Kapia of the natives. - -The Kahikatea, "white pine" (_Podocarpus dacrydioides_), comes next -in order. It attains a hundred and twenty feet or so of stick, and -may girth nearly forty feet. It has not much foliage, but rejoices in -great, gaunt limbs. Kahikatea bush often occupies marshy ground, and, -if unmixed, has a somewhat bare and spectral aspect. The timber is -good, but soft, and may be used for deals. - -The Totara (_Podocarpus Totara_) attains as great a size. It yields -a timber highly prized where kauri cannot be got. The wood is -close-grained, and reckoned very valuable. Mottled totara is as much -esteemed for cabinet work as mottled kauri. - -The Rimu (_Dacrydium cupressinum_) is a beautiful species of cypress; -"Black Pine," as bushmen call it. It yields a highly valued timber, -used for furniture and interior work. The tree is often as gigantic as -the kahikatea, but is stately and finely foliaged. - -The Tawai (_Fagus Menziesii_), called "red birch" by settlers, is a -favourite for fencing when young. It attains a hundred feet; and yields -a good strong timber. - -The Tawairaunui (_Fagus fusca_) is a species of the former, known as -"black birch." It is stronger and more durable, attains a greater size, -but is not so plentiful in the North. The juice is saccharine, like -that of the American maple. - -The Puriri (_Vitex littoralis_) is sometimes called "teak," or -"ironwood." The tree is less than the last. The timber is hard, heavy, -very durable, very hard to work, and of a greenish colour. It is -commonly used for piles and posts, where the maximum of toughness and -durability is required. - -The Kowhai (_Sophora tetraptera_) yields timber similar to that of the -puriri, but of somewhat inferior quality. It is a fine tree, branching -well, and bearing a gold-coloured blossom, whose honey attracts -multitudes of tui (parson-birds) in the season. - -The Pohutukawa (_Metrosideros tomentosa_) is called "the Settlers' -Christmas Tree," as its scarlet flowers appear about that time. It does -not attain more than fifty or sixty feet of height, but is bulky, and -has a rich foliage. The wood is most important, being used for knees -and ribs in ship building. The bark is astringent, medicinal, and is -used in tanneries. - -The Hinau (_Elaeocarpus dentatus_) produces a good bark for tanning and -dyeing. It is not among the largest trees. The Maori used its juice as -a dye, and in the process of moku. - -The Tanekaha (_Phyllocladus trichomanoides_) is a larger tree again. -The timber is used for planks and spars. The bark gives a red-brown -dye, formerly used by the Maori, and is exceedingly rich in tannin. - -The Kamahi (_Weinmannia racemosa_) is a small tree. It bears a pretty -flower, and is a great ornament. The bark is used in tanneries. - -The Kohekohe (_Dysoxylum spectabile_) reaches sixty feet. It has -magnificent foliage, yields a good timber for fencing, makes first-rate -shingles, and contains a bitter principle of tonic quality, like -quassia. - -The Kawa-kawa (_Piper excelsum_) is a large shrub of the pepper tribe, -allied to kava and cubebs. It is ornamental, and has an aromatic scent. - -The Pukatea (_Atherosperma N.Z._) is a tree of the second largest -class. Its timber is soft but durable, and is much used for -boat-building. It is a remarkably handsome tree. - -The Rata (_Metrosideros robusta_) is of the myrtle tribe. When young -it is a creeper and a parasite, called then Ratapiki. It gradually -strangles and absorbs the tree round which it climbs, becoming -eventually a forest giant, gnarled and twisted. In all its stages it -bears a gorgeous scarlet flower. The timber is used for rails, posts, -and shingles. - -The Ti, or "cabbage-tree palm" (_Cordyline Australis_), grows as high -as fifty feet. It branches into various stems, each bearing a head of -leaves. The leaf yields a strong fibre. The plentiful seeds are full of -oil. The root is farinaceous, and was an item of Maori diet. It is very -abundant. - -The Toi (_Cordyline indivisa_) is a more ornamental, rarer, and smaller -species of "cabbage-tree;" the leaf is larger, handsomer, and also -fibre-yielding. Its root is also esculent, like that of the Ti. The -name of Toi likewise belongs to a herb (_Barbarea vulgaris_), the -leaves of which are eaten like cabbage or spinach. - -The Tingahere, or "lancewood" (_Cordyline stricta_), is another -species of the same family. It is of very singular appearance, its -head resembling a tuft of copper-coloured feathers or hair. There are -several more members of this tribe to be seen pretty frequently in the -mixed bush. - -The Nikau (_Areca sapida_) attains forty or fifty feet. It is a -handsome palm, bearing enormous fronds, often fifteen feet or more -in length. They are used for thatching wharès in the forest. Within -the crown of the leaves is an edible pith, a stick of pinky-white -stuff, the size of a man's arm, eating like celery and cocoa-nut in -combination; it is refreshing and wholesome. - -The Tawhera or Kie-kie (_Freycinetia Banksii_) appears to be sometimes -a parasite, sometimes a shrub, and sometimes a small tree. It is a -curious plant, with tufts of stringy leaves. It bears a fruit very much -esteemed by the Maori, which resembles a green pine-apple, small, and -eats like honey and cream. - -The Koraka (_Corynocarpus levigata_) was brought to New Zealand by -the Maori. It is a small tree, with fine, dark, glossy foliage, which -cattle are very fond of. The fruit is edible; the kernel containing -"korakine," a narcotic poison. This property, however, appears to be -dissipated by heat, as I have known the kernels to be roasted, ground, -and made into coffee, without bad result. - -The Maire (_Santalum Cunninghamii_) is not a large tree, but the wood -is extremely hard, heavy, and finely grained. It was used by the Maori -for war-clubs, and is now sawn and utilized for many purposes. Bushmen -call it "Black Maire," to distinguish it from the following:— - -The Maire-tawhake (_Eugenia Maire_), or "White Maire." - -The Maire-aunui (_Olea Cunninghamii_), which, together with the last, -is a much bigger tree than the maire, but does not yield such valuable -timber. - -The Kotukutuku (_Fuchsia excorticata_) is akin to the fuchsia seen -in gardens at home. It is here a huge tree, standing eighty feet -in height, and with great girth. The flower is fine, and the fruit -agreeable eating. - -The Kawaka (_Libocedrus Doniana_) is a grand tree of the largest class. -Its timber is dark and heavy, but is too brittle to work well. It -serves some purposes, however. - -The Mangiao (_Tetranthera calicaris_) is a smaller tree, but one that -yields a timber exceptionally useful to carpenters and joiners. It -is also largely used in the ship-yards. The wood is fragrant with an -aromatic odour, as is also the leaf and blossom. - -The Matai, or "Red Pine" (_Podocarpus spicata_), needs special mention. -Its wood is durable; soft when fresh, it has the property of hardening -with time. - -The Miro, "Black Pine" (_Podocarpus ferruginea_), is, like the matai, -a large-sized tree. Its timber is close-grained and durable, but is -somewhat brittle. - -The Ake-ake (_Dodonæa viscosa_) gives a handsome wood for cabinet work, -which is said to be imperishable. - -The Horopito, or "Pepper-tree" (_Drimys axillaris_) yields also an -ornamental timber. Though the tree is of small size its wood is useful -for veneers. Its fruit, leaves, and bark contain medicinal properties. - -The Ohoeka (_Panax crassifolium_) is a small shrub-like tree, whose -wood is noted for singular lightness, flexibility, and elasticity. - -The Manuka or Manukau (_Leptospermum scoparium, et ericoides_), is the -"ti-tree" of settlers. In one condition it is low shrubbery, not unlike -heather, called then Rawiri by the Maori. "Second-growth ti-tree" is -like a plantation of cane, coming up very densely. This brushwood is -useful for small purposes about a house. It develops into wattles and -stakes after twenty years or so; these are of great value for fencing. -Finally, the plant becomes one of the largest forest-trees, yielding -a hard, close-grained timber. There are red and white varieties. The -Maori particularize it as Kahikatea, when in the tree condition. A -sort of manna, which exudes from the plant in all stages, is called by -them Piamanuka. Ti-tree springs upon any land that has been cleared -or burnt, and comes up densely and rapidly. It is the chief weed the -pioneer farmer has to contend with. - -The Tawa (_Nesodaphne Tawa_) grows to nearly as great a size as the -kahikatea, though branching and spreading more. Its timber, however, is -soft and not of value. - -The Taraire (_Nesodaphne Taraire_) is a huge and handsome tree of a -kindred species. Like the tawa, its wood is light and brittle. The -berries of both are eaten, usually after having been boiled. - -The Whau (_Entelea arborescens_) is a small tree, noticeable for its -fine foliage. The wood is light, and the tree yields a fair substitute -for cork. - -The Whau-whau-paku (_Panax arborea_) is similarly to be noticed for its -elegant glossy leaf. - -The Patate (_Schefflera digitata_) is another small tree remarkable on -the same account. - -The Piripiriwhata (_Carpodetus serratus_) grows to about thirty feet in -height. The timber is something like that of the ash, and is excellent -for axe-handles, cart-shafts, etc. - -The Rama-rama (_Myrtus bullata_) has a good hard wood, but is small. -Its pink flower is a great ornament. - -The Raukawa (_Panax Edgerleyi_) is a larger ornamental tree. - -The Rewa-rewa (_Knightia excelsa_) approaches to the second class of -the great trees. It is often a hundred feet in height, but the trunk is -slender. Its wood has a splendidly showy grain for cabinet work. - -The Tarata (_Pittosporum eugenioides_) is a small tree noted for its -purple blossom. - -The Tawairauriki (_Fagus Solandri_) is the "White Birch" of settlers. -It reaches upwards of a hundred feet; but its timber is inferior and -less durable than that of either the red or black varieties. - -The Titoki (_Alectryon excelsum_) is one of the larger trees. Its -timber is strong, tough, and durable. Its seed is full of a fine fixed -oil, which the Maori used to extract and employ as an unguent. - -The Manawa, or "mangrove" (_Avicennia officinalis_), is very plentiful -in the north, along the shores of tidal waters. The wood is found -useful for some minor purposes, and might be used as a source of crude -soda, perhaps. - -The Ngaio (_Myoporum laetum_) is a small bushy tree, capable of being -grown into hedges. - -The Neinei (_Dracophyllum latifolium_) is but a small tree. The wood is -hard, and is valued for making mallets and the handles of implements. - -The Mapau (_Myrsine Urvillei_) affords good material for fencing. - -The Mapauriki (_Pittosporum tenuifolium_) has handsome foliage, and a -dark purple flower, and can be grown as a shelter tree. - -The Kaiwhiria (_Hedycarya dentata_) is remarkable on the same account. - -The Houhere (_Populnea Hoheria_) is a fine large tree of the linden -kind. Like that tree, its inner bark may be utilized for bass and -matting. The flower is snow-white, and very handsome. - -The Kaikomako (_Pennantia corymbosa_) will be much cultivated as a -garden ornament. The flower is sweet-scented, and the fruit is edible. - -This comprises the catalogue of native trees, so far as they are known -in our shanty; but, it is said that there are nearly as many more -varieties indigenous to the country, though considerably scarcer than -any of those mentioned. - -There are some shrubs noticeable for one reason and another. We are in -the habit of collecting the seeds of such as have remarkably handsome -blooms or leafage, and sending them home for our friends to try and -raise in their conservatories. A few of our trees and shrubs will -bear the English climate, if properly attended to. I have seen fair -specimens in botanical gardens. Still, they will never attain their -full proportions there. Our favourite flowering or foliage shrubs are -these:— - -The Akakura (_Metrosideros scandens_), a beautiful climber, which will -develop into a tree if allowed to grow. It bears flowers like tufts of -crimson silk. - -The Akepiro (_Olearia furfuracea_), a shrub with velvety foliage. - -The Angi-angi (_Geniostoma ligustrifolium_), a shrub with a white -flower. - -The Kaikaiatua (_Rhabdothamnus Solandri_). The Maori evidently -appreciated some part of this plant, the name of it signifying "Food -of Gods," precisely the same title by which the old Greeks spoke of -certain dainty mushrooms. It has a fine orange and red-striped blossom. - -The Kapuka (_Griselinia littoralis_), a small tree with a yellow-green -foliage. - -The Karamu or Papaumu (_Coprosma_, _sp._), a family of pretty flowering -shrubs. - -The Karetu (_Hierochloe redolens_), which is not a shrub exactly, but a -grass, renowned for its delicious scent. - -The Kihi-kihi (_Pittosporum crassifolium_), a shrub with purple -flowers, akin to the mapauriki. - -The Kohia (_Passiflora tetandra_), the seeds of which yield a bland -oil, that may probably be some day utilized. - -The Korokio (_Corokia Buddleoides_), a fine erect tree, bearing a -conspicuous red berry. - -The Koromiko (_Veronica_, _sp._), these pretty species are astringent, -and their shoots are a remedy for scouring in cattle. - -The Kotukutuku (_Fuchsia excorticata_), when full-grown, it becomes one -of the largest trees. - -The Kowhaingutukaka (_Clianthus puniceus_), bears especially fine red -and orange blossoms. - -The Kumerahu (_Pomaderris elliptica_), is sweet-scented. - -The Mairehau (_Phebalium nudum_), grows well. - -The Oho (_Panax Lessonii_), is recommended, but we do not admire it. - -The Pere (_Alseuosmia Banksii_), a straggling, spreading bush. - -The Pikiarero (_Clematis indivisa_), is very plentiful in the forest. -It has fine white, sweet-scented flowers. - -The Ratapiki (_Metrosideros Florida_), is a species much the same as -the akakura. - -The Rohutu (_Myrtus pedunculata_), is pretty. - -The Toro (_Persoonia Toro_), becomes a tree. It has rich foliage. - -Besides these there are one or two climbers and shrubs that are -plentiful everywhere, and must be noticed for other peculiarities. They -are these:— - -The Kareao (_Rhipogonum scandens_), well-known to settlers under the -detested name of "supple-jack." It grows in long, winding canes, -the thickness of one's finger, and so horny that they will turn an -axe-edge. It often binds acres of trees together in impenetrable -thickets, making the bushman's labour excessively difficult. -Walking-stick makers export selected canes, and they are split and used -as withes. The root is astringent, and is said to resemble sarsaparilla -in medicinal virtue. - -The Tataramoa (_Rubus Australis_) is equally well-known under the -designation of "bush-lawyer." Its stems are flexile, and more like rope -than cane, but every part of the plant is fibrous and very strong. It -grows in much the same manner as supple-jack, but is luckily not quite -so plentiful. It rejoices in abundant foliage, and each leaf is armed -with hooked thorns, which lay hold of anything attempting to brush past -them. Hence the name; for it is needful to disengage each particular -thorn with care and circumspection. There is no pulling away from a -bush-lawyer, unless one is prepared to leave clothes and skin hanging -on the bush, so tenacious is its hold. The plant belongs to the bramble -tribe, and has a white flower and a red berry. - -The Mounga-mounga (_Lygodium articulatum_) is the delight of persons -camping out. It has a stem like small twine, which depends from the -trees in immense bundles of spiral coils. Bunches of it make capital -bedding, being, in fact, a natural spring-mattress. - -The Tupakihi (_Coriaria ruscifolia_) is a shrub growing chiefly on -poor open land. The whole plant is highly astringent, but is also said -to contain a narcotic principle. Cattle occasionally eat it, and get -poisoned. It bears bunches of juicy berries which are wholesome to -eat, but upon them is a seed that is dangerously full of the poisonous -principle. The beverage called tutu, which the old Maori esteemed, was -made from the berries of this plant. When it was boiled with a certain -seaweed (_Porphyra_) a nutritious jelly was formed. Tutu was probably -not universally known among the Maori, but only to certain tribes. It -appears to have been intoxicating, for warriors who required a "drop of -somethink short" were accustomed to imbibe it on the eve of battle. - -New Zealand is well-known to be a great place for ferns. They exist in -incredible profusion everywhere. Botanists have enumerated a hundred -and thirty indigenous species, of which some forty are peculiar to the -country. We are always sending roots, seeds, and dried species home, -but I cannot attempt to catalogue them. Several kinds resembling that -beautifully delicate fern called the maidenhair are among our commonest -species. Their luxuriance is astonishing. They cover acres and acres of -ground in the bush, and come up to one's waist and armpits. - -The Tuakura (_Dicksonia squarrosa_) and the Ponga (_Cyathea dealbata_) -are the two principal varieties of fern-tree. Groves of them, -overshadowing some lonely creek, at the bottom of a wild, wooded gully, -are indeed a sight to see. Growing to twenty, thirty, or forty feet in -height, the graceful drooping fronds that spread around a single tree -form a natural arbour, capable of sheltering a number of persons. - -The Raurau (_Pteris aquilina_, _var. esculenta_) is a fern of the -nature of English bracken. It covers all the better-class open lands, -and occurs among the undergrowth of the bush. It sometimes grows very -large, the fronds overtopping one's head as one walks or rides through -it. The root is a Maori edible. - -The ivy-ferns, climbing-ferns, or creeper-ferns (_Polypodia_, _sp._, -_Hymenophylla_, _sp._), are very beautiful. They are everywhere in the -bush, ascending to the tops of the tallest trees, twining on every -limb, and throwing out bunches of fronds to hide it. Some have broad, -glossy leaves as big as a table-top; others are digitate, pedatisect, -tripinnate, and all the rest of it, or assume strange new shapes, like -that of the kidney-fern (_Trichomanes reniforme_), for instance. - -Like the ferns, the mosses of the country are legion in number, and -marvellously luxuriant in growth. They, too, are everywhere. Great -masses of moss form hanging-gardens on the trees; for, collecting a -quantity of detritus and moisture, a sort of soil is formed, in which -small ferns, tawhera, orchids, plants of various kinds, and fungi, -flourish. In and about these hanging-gardens, these ferneries high up -upon the great trees, are the homes and habitations of birds, rats, -bees, beetles, lizards, and butterflies. - -The Harakeke or Korati (_Phormium tenax_) is the justly celebrated New -Zealand flax. It is plentiful everywhere, on bush-land and open-land, -rich soil and poor soil, hill and dale, from the Reinga to the Bluff. -Throughout the North you cannot go a hundred yards in any direction -without seeing a clump of it. In many districts of both islands it -covers hundreds of acres entirely. - -Flax resembles the English flag, or iris, in appearance, but the -blades are thicker, heavier, and glossy. Usually, from four to six -feet long, in favourable situations they grow to ten or twelve feet. -The colour is a bright green, variegated in some of the species with -white, yellow, or red. The plant grows in dense clumps, or bushes, and -from the centre of each root rises a tall stem bearing flowers, white, -yellow, salmon, flesh-pink, red, in different varieties. The flowers -are peculiarly rich in honey; and Maori children are fond of sucking -them. The resulting seed is oily and resinous, the seed-stems being -commonly used for torches. - -The leaves of the harakeke are composed of a strong fibre, which ranks -next to silk in degree of tenacity. The whole plant is impregnated with -gum, quantities of which are found about the base of the leaves. The -gum is astringent, and the root is rich in tannin. This fresh gum was -used by the Maori for every purpose of cement and glue. The root had -its place in their pharmacopeia. - -From the earliest times that Europeans had any knowledge of New -Zealand, this flax-fibre has excited great attention. The quality of -the Maori manufactures from it was sufficient to arouse earnest inquiry -into the nature of the material. The robes and dresses they wove out of -phormium yarn were articles often of considerable beauty, finish, and -design. The kaitaka, for instance, made from a choice variety of flax, -has a gloss like silk or satin, and, though thick, is perfectly soft -and flexible. All these garments were so durable that they could be -handed down from generation to generation. - -But the labour involved in making these articles was prodigious, and -would have rendered them above all price in a community where an -individual's time was commutable into cash. The fibre was separated by -hand, and freed from the all-permeating gum by toilsome manipulative -processes. This work of freeing the fibre from gum has always been the -great difficulty. Even yet success has not been wholly achieved. No -European machinery or process has yet been perfected that will turn out -an article like the Maori manufacture, and at a practicable cost. If it -could be done, the fabric would bring immense wealth to this country. - -Very early in this century phormium fibre was brought to Sydney and to -England. The manufacture of cloth from it was essayed at Knaresborough, -in Yorkshire, but it was found that the fibre was destroyed by boiling -it with chemicals, which had been resorted to for removal of the gum. -However, it soon became known as of value for cordage, canvas, and -paper-making. Phormium rope, tested against the best Manilla rope, bulk -for bulk, has been over and over again proved the stronger and most -durable. - -Many mills have been erected, and much capital sunk in the production -of the dressed fibre, and in experimenting to render it more workable -at commensurate cost. In the North less has been done in this way than -elsewhere. There are mills at Whangarei, at Aratapu, and at sundry -other places; but it is evident that further south must lie the chief -fields of flax industry. In Taranaki and in Westland, for example, -there are miles and miles of nothing but flax. The supply of leaf is -there simply inexhaustible. - -In the commercial world New Zealand flax-fibre was highly esteemed at -one time, but has fallen out of favour. During 1873 the colony exported -dressed fibre to the value of £143,799, but in 1875 this export fell -to £11,742, and, though it has recovered slightly, it has not reached -the original standard. This has been owing to the action of English -rope-makers, who continue to prefer Manilla hemp, and to depreciate -the price of our product, in spite of its acknowledged superiority. A -short-sighted policy on their part, it promises to result well for the -colony. Unable to find a market for the raw material, New Zealanders -are beginning to manufacture rope, canvas, and paper themselves. There -is not a doubt that their products will take the foremost place, and -bring great wealth to the country. - -Experimenting with flax has been a regular craze. Many a man has lost -all his capital in it. You have only to see what the Maori have done -with the fibre, and to recognize the enormous supply of the material, -to get bitten by this mania. It seems so manifestly certain that there -must be a way of working up the material by machinery at a reasonable -cost, and producing a fabric such as the Maori did, which could be sold -at a profit. Only find out the way to do it, and the fortunes that -could be made would be boundless in extent. - -In the green state, the flax leaf is most useful to both settler and -Maori. Every purpose for which cordage of any kind is wanted, is easily -supplied by cutting some leaves from the nearest clump, splitting -and tying them together. They look unsightly, but they are just as -strong as need be. Whether it is a bridle, a halter, a boat-cable, or -a boot-lace that is required, green flax-leaf out of the nearest bush -supplies it. And the Maori plait kits and baskets for all purposes with -it. - -Take it altogether, in the green state and in the manufactured -condition, in the present and prospectively, as what it has been and -what it will become, there is nothing in the country to equal the value -of the phormium. Few countries have a natural product so useful, and of -such vast importance to their future welfare. - -The vegetable edibles of the bush have already been alluded to in the -description of Maori manners. There would be no need for any one to -starve, if he were lost in the forest for months, did he but know the -native esculents, even if he were unable to supplement them by catching -birds or fish. Almost every Maori—at any rate of the old school—is -a good practical botanist and naturalist. He knows the properties and -native name of every plant; and he knows the habits of each bird, or -fish, or insect, and how to catch it. When the Pakeha condescends to go -to the Maori for instruction in these particulars, he will be sure to -gain something by it. - -The principal edible, because the most widespread, was the fern-root. -It was prepared in several ways. The most elaborate consisted in -macerating, steaming, and kneading the gummy fibrous stuff, and -keeping the resulting mess until a kind of fermentation began in it. -The readiest way was to simply roast the scraped root, then to beat -it into softness between two stones. When cold, this last became hard -like biscuit. It is tolerably nutritious, but not particularly nice, -according to Pakeha notions. - -The root of the ti, and of the toi, too, I believe, is far better food, -but was neither so plentiful nor so easily grubbed up. Baked or boiled -it is not bad eating, being very farinaceous. The earliest missionary -settlers made beer from a wort of it. Whether this was known to the -Maori previous to the advent of the Pakeha, I have been unable to -discover. - -The pith of the nikau is wholesome, nutritious, and palatable. The tree -is plentiful enough in the North. Unlike the root of the cabbage-tree -just mentioned, it is eaten raw. There is a bushy grass (_Gahnia_ and -_Cladium_), strong spiny stuff, in the forest, which also has an edible -pith. - -The root of the raupo (_Typha angustifolia_), the swamp-grass of which -the Maori construct their wharè, is edible, similarly to that of the -cabbage-tree. Punga-punga, the pollen of the raupo, used to be made -into bread. - -There are one or two other roots and piths also esculent, but neither -so good nor so plentiful as those just recorded. There are the fruits -of the hinau, rimu, matai, miro, kahikatea, koraka, tawa, kohekohe, -taraire, tawhera, and other trees and shrubs. And there is the interior -of the stem of one of the fern trees. - -There are the native spinach or Renga-renga (_Tetragonia expansa_), the -Pana-pana, or cress (_Cardamine hirsuta_), and the Reti-reti, or sorrel -(_Oxalis magellanica_), which do for salad and green vegetables. As -they are plentiful, they might be more freely used by settlers and -bushmen than they are. - -To them may be added the Toi (_Barbarea vulgaris_), a herb which served -the ancient Maori as cabbage. Then there is a native celery (_Apium -australe_), a nettle (_Urtica incisa_), and a dandelion (_Taraxacum -dens-leonis_), all of which might be eaten. The Maori also made use of -the root of an orchid (_Gastrodia Cunninghamii_), and the root of a -bindweed (_Convolvulus sepium_). They called the first Hirituriti, and -the latter Panake. These roots are farinaceous and nourishing, and were -baked and consumed in large quantities. - -The three plants cultivated by the Maori—Kumera (_Ipomœa Batatas_), -Hue (_Cucurbita_, _sp._), and Taro (_Caladium esculentum_), are all to -be found growing wild. There are also now to be found wild many of our -garden vegetables, including the potato, tomato, capsicum, tobacco, -cabbage, cape gooseberry (_Physalis Peruviana_), watercress—called -Kowhiti by the natives—and many more. - -Lastly, the Maori made use of several seaweeds and a number of fungi. -But, as Britons at home persist in despising all other fungi but the -field mushroom and the truffle, I suppose they will hardly take to -such food here, dainty though it is. One fungus (_Hirneola_, _sp._) -is gathered here to a small extent for export to China. It fetches -about 15_s._ to £1 per cwt., and about £1000 worth are annually -exported. It grows plentifully on certain trees. The field mushroom -(_Agaricus campestris_), well known in England, has appeared on our -paddocks, sometimes in enormous quantities. Together with its congener -the horse-mushroom (_A. arvensis_), this fungus is not indigenous, -according to Maori information on the subject. I have heard the species -called "Harori-kai-pakeha," which conveys the idea that the field -mushroom is an introduced species. But the Maori applied the name -of Harori to several species belonging to the families _Agaricus_, -_Amanita_, _Lepiota_, etc., which we call "toadstools." They were -accustomed to eat certain of these, and do so still, if they happen to -find them in the bush. All fungi growing on trees they call Hakeke, or -Popoiahakeke. Of these, they were accustomed to eat the three or four -species of _Hirneola_, which are indigenous, and one or two _Polypori_ -besides. One of the latter tribe yielded them a surgical appliance. -A mushroom they name Putawa, is a _Boletus_. Probably more than one -species of this family was customarily eaten. The Maori also ate the -Pukurau (_Lycoperdon Fontainesii_), and possibly other species of -puff-balls besides. They knew the esculent value of the Pekepekekiore -(_Hydnum Clathroides_), but their chiefest dainty and most esteemed -treasure among fungi, is the Paruwhatitiri, or "thunder-dirt" -(_Ileodictyon cibarium_). The volva of this extraordinary fungus is -eaten, and is regarded as a great dainty. There are many species of -fleshy fungi in the bush, but little is known of them, either by Maori, -settlers, or scientists. - -New Zealand did without quadrupeds in the old times, save and except -the kiore, or rat. This was a delicacy much esteemed by Maori -bon-vivants, and was regularly hunted by them with great ceremonial. -It is rapidly becoming extinct, only being found now in the remote -recesses of the forest. The Norwegian rat, which centuries ago -exterminated the aboriginal British rat, has somehow come over here -with the Pakeha, and is rapidly rendering the kiore a thing of the -past, while spreading through the land in its place. - -There was some talk of the discovery of a kind of otter, but, I -believe, that has been proved a myth altogether. There were some bats, -and there was the dog, kararehe or peropero. The kararehe, however, was -never wild to any extent. It had been brought here by the Maori, and -was kept domesticated by them. They prized its flesh for food, and its -skin for robes. - -Captain Cook's pigs are now numerous everywhere, as has been described -in another chapter. Besides them, cattle, goats, sheep, and cats are -now found wild in certain localities, and in considerable number. - -We have, luckily, no snakes, and the only reptiles are pretty little -ngarara, or lizards (_Mocoa zelandica_, and _M. ornata_), together -with a few frogs in some districts. The Maori have legends respecting -enormous ngarara that they say once existed here. They have a tale of -these taniwha which is somewhat parallel to our nursery stories of -dragons. - -Instead of animals New Zealand possessed an extraordinary class of -gigantic birds, the famous moa, in fact. The kiwi (_Apteryx_) remains -as an example of this family. The kiwi, of which there are four known -species, varies from the size of a common hen to that of a goose. It -has neither wings nor tail; and its dull brown feathers resemble coarse -hair. It has a long flexible bill, and thick powerful legs, which -divide into four strong claws. - -The kiwi is a night-bird, lying hid by day. It is very shy, -disappearing from the neighbourhood of settlements and haunting -the recesses of the forest, where I have found it to be still very -plentiful. The kiwi lays a very large egg in proportion to its size. -A bird of four and a half pounds will lay an egg of fourteen ounces -weight. The Maori used to catch considerable numbers of them, and -do still in some parts, using their flesh for food, their skins for -leather, and their feathers for weaving into chiefs' robes. Having -eaten kiwi old and young, baked and boiled, roast and fried, I am able -to state that its meat is tougher and more tasteless than barbecued -boot-soles. - -The Maori have two ways of catching kiwi. They hunt them with dogs -trained to the work; that is one method. The dog flushes the kiwi, -which runs swiftly and silently off among the undergrowth. The dog -follows by scent. At last the kiwi is driven into some swamp, where it -half buries itself in the mud, and stupidly stands till it is caught. - -Another plan is to light a fire by night in some secluded and likely -thicket, the hunter lying concealed near. He imitates the cry of -the kiwi, and so lures it to the fire, where it stands dazzled and -stupefied till he seizes it. A party I was out with once caught a dozen -birds so one night. - -The now extinct moa appear to have been very similar to kiwi, only -of gigantic size. Plenty of their skeletons are found, enabling -naturalists to tell us all about them, corroborated by the tradition of -the Maori. They seem to have been in existence up to the end of last -century, and, till lately, it was thought that individual specimens -might even yet be found in unexplored localities. This hope no longer -remains. - -There were three families of moa (_Dinornis_, _Aptornis_, -_Palapteryx_), subdivided into several species. The smallest was five -feet, and the largest sixteen feet in height. They were of enormous -bulk, too; one species had legs thicker than a man's thigh. But huge as -they were, they were shy and stupid, and not formidable, so that the -Maori were able to run them down and club them to death. - -If the moa's egg was as large in proportion to the bird as the kiwi's -is to it, it must have been a monster. And if, as naturalists lead us -to infer, the moa was but a magnified kiwi in all respects, it is to be -supposed that its flesh would be correspondingly tougher and coarser. -In that case, I do not see why the Maori should be blamed for turning -cannibal in preference to eating it. - -The first voyagers to New Zealand speak with special unction of the -multitudes of birds, and especially of singing birds. They could -scarcely do so now. The native birds have noticeably diminished in -number, though they are yet to be found plentifully enough in the -remote bush. The Maori say in their picturesque manner— - -"When the big Pakeha bird (ship) swam upon the sea to Ahinamaui, the -little Maori birds flew away." - -Some have thought that the introduction of honey-bees has caused the -disappearance of honey-sucking birds. A more probable reason is that -advanced by Dr. Buller, namely, that the Norwegian rat is the real -cause. This little beast swarms throughout the forest country, and robs -nests of eggs and young. - -But the Maori birds are by no means so few in number as some writers -would have us believe; and they are being rapidly augmented by numerous -species from other countries, imported and acclimatized, which are -thriving apace and multiplying prodigiously. I shall only have room to -mention a few of our native species, such as are peculiarly noticeable -or comparatively common. - -The Tui (_Prosthemadera N.Z._) is commonly known as "parson-bird," -from two white projecting feathers on the neck, which exactly parody -a clergyman's falling bands. It is somewhat larger than the English -starling, with plumage resembling it, but more metallic in colour and -glossier. It sucks honey from flowers, and eats berries. It has a -cheerful song, and can imitate like a mocking-bird. I have often seen -scores of tui at a time on blossoming kowhai trees. Tui give regular -concerts in the early morning, and the motions of the bird when singing -resemble those of a preacher, a curious addition to the likeness -conveyed by its "bands." Tui fatten so excessively on phormium seeds, -that the Maori have a fable that they peck a hole in their breasts, -to let the superfluous oil out. The bird is a favourite for caging, -both with Maori and settlers. It can be taught to whistle tunes and -articulate words. It is good eating. - -The Kuku (_Carpophaga N.Z._) is a wood-pigeon, a good deal larger than -the English species. It has splendid plumage, of a dark, flashing, -metallic green, with touches of red, and a white breast. It appears to -be migratory, coming down in flocks every now and then, especially when -the cabbage trees are in seed. On these oily beans it gets absurdly -fat, like the tui, so much so, that when you shoot a bird and it falls -to the ground, you find the skin split, and the fat oozing forth. -The kuku appear in hundreds and thousands sometimes, and numbers may -easily be shot. The Maori snare them and spear them by scores. They are -capital eating. - -The Weka (_Ocydromus Earli_) is found plentifully in the woods. -Settlers call it the "bush-hen." It has a pretty mottled plumage of -partridge tints, and its flesh eats like grouse. The weka is somewhat -larger than the English water-hen. It is getting less abundant every -year. There is a larger bird in the bush of kindred species, rarer, and -distinguished by more showy colours, which I have seen once or twice, -but could not identify. Probably it may have been a cross between the -weka and the common domestic fowl. - -The Pukeko (_Porphyrio melanotus_) is a splendid water-bird, larger -than the biggest duck. It is known as the "swamp-hen." Its purple -colouring and crimson beak give it quite a royal and magnificent -appearance. This bird is getting rapidly more numerous instead of the -contrary. It has quite taken to Pakeha domination, apparently, and -could probably be domesticated. The pukeko was brought here by the -Maori. It is fine eating. - -The Kaka (_Nestor meridionalis_) is a large bird of the parrot kind. -Its plumage is of a greenish brown, with scarlet under the wings. -It is common and good eating. There are several varieties of kaka, -some in which the colouring is dull, and others in which it is richly -variegated. It eats insects and berries, and sucks the honey from -flowers. Its note is harsh and clamorous. - -The Kakariki (_Platycercus N.Z._) comprehend several species of small -parrot or parrakeet. They are distinguished by brilliant emerald-green -and scarlet feathers. Occasionally a good many may be seen. They are -noisy fellows—like all parrots. - -The Kuimako or Kohorimako (_Anthornis melanura_) is a bird about the -size of a thrush. Its plumage is olive-green, with purple about the -head. It has a sweet note, that has been compared to the tinkling and -chiming of silver bells; hence its common name, "the bell-bird." It is -our nightingale. Once chorusing in flocks, singing at daybreak, it may -still be often heard, but, sad to say, is getting scarcer. - -The Kahu (_Circus Gouldi_) is chief among several of the hawk tribe. It -looks almost eagle-like, as its broad wings skim across the sky. It is -a sad marauder among the settler's poultry. Sometimes two or three of -them will combine and attack a turkey or lamb. They do good by keeping -down rats on open ground. - -The Ruru (_Spiloglaux N.Z._) is a small brown owl, heard everywhere -at night. It is called the "morepork," from its doleful iteration of -apparently that word. There is also a singular green owl-parrot, the -kakapo (_Strigops habroptilus_), which lives in holes in the ground. -It attacks sheep and tears their backs. It does not belong to our -catalogue, as it is not found in the Land of the Kauri, principally -inhabiting Canterbury and Otago. I believe there are one or two other -species of owls besides them. - -The Kaiaia (_Hieracidea Brunnea_) is a sparrow-hawk, smaller than -the kahu. It will probably have its work cut out in keeping down the -English sparrows that have been introduced, and are likely to get too -numerous. By the same native name the "quail-hawk" (_Hieracidea N.Z._) -is also known. Both of these hawks are so exceedingly fierce that they -will attack anything, either singly or in concert. They have even been -known to fly at men, and to pounce at game in their hands. - -The Patatai (_Rallus Philippensis_) is a small land-rail, plumaged much -like a partridge. It may not infrequently be seen; and makes a dainty -dish. - -The Matuku (_Botaurus pœciloptilus_) is a bittern, long-legged and -billed. It is of dull hues, and its monotonous boom may be heard from -the swamps. The Maori are expert at catching them; but I cannot say -that bittern-meat is good. There is a smaller species of bittern, a -blue heron, and possibly others of the family, all known under the -common name of matuku. - -The Kotare (_Halcyon vagans_) is a kingfisher, whose bright plumage -flits continually through the mangroves, where it principally makes -its home. It is larger than our English species, and of much the same -hues, sea-green and ultramarine, with orange-tawny under the wings. - -The Kawau (_Phalacrocorax_, _sp._) is one of the commonest birds. There -are half a dozen distinct species, known to us by the general name of -shag or cormorant. They have a black back and a white breast. Some have -blue, green, and other tints of colouring. They build in trees, in -large "shaggeries," and haunt the seashore and the banks of the rivers. - -The Kuaka (_Limosa Baueri_) is the bird spoken of as "curlew" and "grey -snipe" by colonists. Large flocks are to be seen on our rivers, feeding -on the mud-banks. When they are assembled in numbers, it is often -possible to creep cautiously within range, and take a pot-shot at the -crowd as it rises. A number may thus be bagged. The Maori used to net -them by night. They are fairly good eating. - -The Titi or "mutton-bird" (_Puffinus brevicaudus_) is a species of -petrel common throughout the South Sea. They breed in burrows far -inland, consorting in immense flocks. An island in Bass' Straits is -resorted to by them annually, in such incredible numbers, that one -estimate, arrived at by calculating the cubic space they occupied, -gave a hundred and fifty millions as their probable numbers. On our -coasts they often come in legions. The Maori catch them by stretching -nets along the seashore at night. The birds, flying low, and returning -after dark to their inland roosting-places, are thus trapped in great -quantities. The Maori used to preserve them in calabashes, partly -cooked, and potted in the oily fat that had exuded from them. They were -thus made into a sort of "canned provisions," which might be stored up -against times of dearth, or made an article of trade with inland tribes. - -The Koreke (_Coturnix N.Z._), the native quail, was once very -plentiful, though more so on the grassy downs of the south than here. -The natives used to net koreke in great quantities, much as they did -the titi and kuaka. Now, the bird is scarce in our part of the country. -Only rarely do we see a flock of half a dozen or so. But their place -is amply filled by various imported species of game-birds, now getting -very plentiful. - -The Huia (_Heteralocha Gouldi_) must just be mentioned, as it is one -of the most striking of New Zealand species. It is only found in the -mountains of Wellington and Nelson provinces, consequently not in our -districts. The huia is a large bird, of a uniform glossy black colour, -shot with green. It has a long bent bill, and brilliant orange wattles. - -The Koheperoa (_Eudynamis Taitensis_) is a long-tailed, brown-plumaged -cuckoo, which comes here from the South Sea Islands in the month of -October—our May. Its habits appear to be much the same as those of -the English cuckoo. I only once saw one closely, but have heard them -oftener. - -The Popo or Popotea (_Orthonyx albicilla_) is a little brown bird with -a white head, which sings like a chaffinch, and principally lives about -rata trees. We see them not infrequently. - -The Riroriro (_Gerygone flaviventris_) is a little warbler seen about -in company with the tauhau. - -The Toutou (_Miro longipes_) is a small grey and white bird, which some -people have said is called the New Zealand robin. It is to be seen in -the bush now and then, and seems tame, but _we_ prefer to call another -species _our_ robin. - -The Pihoi (_Anthus N.Z._) is the so-called native "lark." It is a -ground pipit, and may often be seen fluttering and chirping about a -bush road. - -The Korohea (_Turnagra Hectori_) is the native thrush, and a poor -imitation it is of the English throstle. It is scarce. Sometimes its -song may be listened to with pleasure. - -The Kokako (_Glaucopis Wilsoni_) is a crow, and is not uncommon in the -Kaipara. It has blue wattles on the beak. Its note is peculiar, being -sometimes a low, hollow boom, and at others a shrill and somewhat -bell-like tone. - -The Putoto (_Ortygometra Tabuensis_) is a crake, often confounded by -settlers with the patatai. It is a smaller bird altogether, having -partridge tints on the back, and a grey breast. It chiefly inhabits -raupo swamps. - -The Torea, or oyster-catcher (_Haematopus longirostris_) is one of the -sea-coast birds, and is often to be seen about our tidal rivers. It is -a black bird. - -The Kotuku, or crane (_Ardea syrmatophora_), must just be mentioned, -though none of us ever saw one. But the Maori have a proverb—"as rare -as the kotuku." - -There are various species of duck indigenous to the country, and -seen in great flocks on the rivers. Some of them have really fine -plumage, and others are dull in colour. We shoot and eat them all -indiscriminately, and consider them very good. The species we -have identified in the Kaipara and Hokianga are—the Putangi, or -"paradise-duck" (_Casarca variegata_); the grey duck, or Parera (_Anas -superciliosa_); the brown duck, an allied species or variety of the -last; the Papanga, or "teal," or "widgeon" (_Fuligula N.Z._), and -some other varieties that may be imported birds, or crosses, or other -native species. Besides these are numerous species of seabirds: gulls, -albatross, tern, skua, penguin, etc. We never eat them, of course, -though the Maori do, as they occasionally shoot some for the sake of -their feathers. - -The Tauhau (_Zosterops lateralis_) is a beautiful little green bird, -much like a wren. It has a gold or silvery ring round the eye. It is -much seen about gardens and clearings, and settlers know it as the -"blight-bird." It frequents second-growth ti-tree, where its little -mossy nest and four or five pale blue eggs may often be found. This -bird is said to have only recently come to the country, from no one -knows where. It is quite at home now, and we see its nest oftener than -that of any other species. - -The Waka-waka (_Rhipidura flabellifera_) is _the_ robin of our Brighter -Britain. It is a fantail, or flycatcher. It has dark brown tints pied -with white and black. When one is working or travelling in the bush, a -pair of these dear little birds will stay with one all day. They appear -beside you in the morning, and remain with you till night. They flutter -and flirt about you, sitting on twigs and regarding you with a bright -beady eye, whilst chirruping in a soft, unobtrusive undertone. We find -their nests sometimes, in bush-lawyer or supple-jack clumps, or in -birch-trees, They are curiously built with spiders' webs. - -Many a rough, rude bushman has grown quite sentimental regarding these -little companions of man, and would visit with dire vengeance any -attempt to harm them. The Maori, as usual, have quaint superstitious -fancies about them. An old fellow, who in youth had been "out" with -Hone Heke, was once my companion on a journey through the forest. He -alluded feelingly to the waka-waka that, as usual, were fluttering -about us. - -"Ah!" he said, "they are little spirits" (atua nuke-nuke). "They come -to see what men are doing in the bush by day, and go back to tell God -at night. To-night they will say, 'we saw the Maori and the Pakeha -together in the forest. They ate of the same, and drank of the same, -and slept together in one blanket, and were brothers.' And God will -say, 'It is good!'" - -These are the birds known to the naturalists of our shanty, but -there are plenty more species, rarer, or whose habitat is limited to -districts south of this. And now, too, any ornithological catalogue of -the country must contain the names of numerous acclimatised species, -many of which are getting almost too abundant. We have many English -song-birds and insect-eaters; larks and linnets and thrushes, etc. And -we have game in any quantity in some districts, rapidly extending all -over the islands, of the following descriptions: The English pheasant -(_Phasianus colchicus_), the Chinese pheasant (_Phasianus torquatus_), -the partridge (_Perdix cinerea_), the Californian quail (_Ortyx -Californicus_), the Australian quail (_Coturnix pectoralis_), and some -others. - -I have already said something about insects, when describing our home -life. I spoke of the mosquito (_Culex_), of the sandfly (_Simulium_), -and of the kauri-bug (_Polyzosteria N.Z._). I think I also mentioned a -certain not wholly unknown and _nimble_ creature, which the Maori are -accustomed to term Pakeha-nuke-nuke, or "little stranger." - -Then there is the Cricket (_Cicada_), which swarms on the clearings, -eating down the grass, and doing damage in the gardens and fields. It -is the chief enemy of farmers. We have to keep large flocks of turkeys -on the clearings to keep down the crickets. They devour the insect -greedily, getting to a marvellous size on the food, and acquiring a -delicacy and flavour far beyond that of stubble-fed birds. A plague of -caterpillars also appears sometimes, which must be combated by similar -means. - -We have flies in hosts, innumerable spiders, some of them as big -as walnuts, with hairy legs like a crab's claws, huge flying -locust-grasshoppers, goat-chafers, cock-chafers, dragon-flies, beetles, -and butterflies, the last not often remarkable for size or brilliance. -There are two unique creatures that must have special reference made to -them. - -The Hotete is the so-called "vegetating caterpillar." It is a grub -two or three inches long, and out of its head there grows a parasitic -fungus (_Sphaeria Robertsii_), in the form of a long spire or blade, -six or seven inches in length, with a seed-spur on the top. The natives -eat the hotete. It is the larva of _Hepialus virescens_, a kind of -locust. - -The Weta (_Deinacrida heteracantha_) is a creature of the locust form -living in dead-wood. Its body may reach to three inches in length, -and be about the thickness of one's thumb. It is covered with horny -scales, resembling those of a shrimp, but of a darker brown colour. -The head is perfectly black, and resembles a small lobster, with the -claws and mandibles projecting downwards. There are two large staring -eyes, and two immense antennæ. It has six legs, the latter pair being -very strong and large, while all are armed with serrated edges or -files, and with hooked claws. Behind, there is a horny, wedge-like -spine. From the hinder claws to the tip of the antennæ the weta may -measure sixteen inches, if a full-grown specimen. It bores its way -through dead-wood, in which it lives. Sometimes you get a weta on your -clothes, and feel horrified; but it is perfectly harmless, though you -will have to take it in pieces to get it off you. The larva of this -reptile, a huge sickly-white maggot, is a great prize to a Maori. He -fixes it on a stick, toasts it at the fire, and eats it with every sign -and expression of extravagant delight. I must say that the odour of the -toasted grub is very appetizing, still, I never could bring myself to -try one. - -The poisonous spider of Taranaki—if, indeed, it really exists—is -unknown in our part of the country. We have numbers of bees. Nearly -every hollow tree contains comb. The shanty is seldom without a -bucketful of honey, for the consumption of those who like it. These -bees are a naturalized importation though; there were none indigenous, -I understand. - -When touching on the Maori commissariat I alluded to our fish. We have, -indeed, a wealth of fish in all the tidal waters. Sharks, schnapper, -rock-cod, mackerel, mullet, herring, sole, halibut, albacore, -barracouta, king-fish, and others. All sorts of ways of fishing may be -practised successfully. One can always get fresh fish for supper, for -half an hour's trouble; and a day or night's netting or spearing will -provide ample store for smoking, drying, or salting. There are eight -kinds of whales, so bay-whaling is carried on round the coast. There -are also seals and dolphins. - -The Maori think most of shark-meat, which they cure largely. It is -stinking stuff. We are always ready to lend a hand at a shark-hunt, -which is good sport, but we decline our share of the plunder. We prefer -the substantial schnapper, the goodly whapuka or kanae, or the luscious -porahi. - -Cockles, mussels, clams, mutton-fish, oysters, and other molluscs -abound in the mud and on the rocks. In the freshwater streams are eels, -lampreys, and whitebait; and now salmon and trout have been introduced -into many of them, and are doing well. People who admire a fish diet -should come here. They could revel in profusion of it, as the Maori did -and do. - -When the naturalist's note-book of our shanty shall have become -enlarged and more copious, I may possibly be able to add to this slight -sketch of the natural history of Northern New Zealand. But perhaps I -have already said more than enough to weary the hapless reader. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -THE DEMON DOG—A YARN. - - -Old Colonial is good at spinning yarns, and there is one of his I -should like to put in here, because it is so thoroughly descriptive of -the very first essays at pioneer-farming in this district. - -One night, when we were all comfortably settled to our pipes round the -fire in our shanty, by general request, Old Colonial began as follows— - -"Ah! it's a good many years since I first came up into this district, -new as it is even yet. Near as Auckland is, comparatively, the people -there know no more about us than the folks at home. I've stuck close -to the district, as I like it, and think it's as good as any in the -colony. But, you see, other people don't. New-chums, if they hear of -the Kaipara at all, learn that it's very hilly, and all bush of one -kind or another, and that frightens them; so they go south to the open -districts. And then, Government is more interested in getting settlers -elsewhere than here. People are told that there are no roads up here, -and that the Maori hold the greater part of the land. That is enough -for them, of course, and they don't come up to see for themselves. As -there is no decent map of the colony available as yet, naturally they -cannot know that what with our tidal rivers and freshwater creeks, -intersecting the district in all directions as they do, we really want -no roads, as no one will settle in the back country until the water -frontage is filled up, which will not be for many years yet. Then, our -Maoris are the best neighbours any one could wish to live among, and -are only too well pleased to sell lands and welcome new settlers. - -"After all, we are just a trifle out of the way, you must allow. -Although we've got Tom's little steamer now, running regularly on the -rivers, still, communication with the city means two transhipments and -a portage, with tremendously heavy freights, unless you can charter a -cutter yourself and go all round by the open sea. So that, though we -settlers may think the Kaipara in every way desirable, there's good -reason for those who have never been in it to give their preference to -the Waikato, or Wanganui, or Canterbury. - -"However, I dare say you are beginning to wonder what all this has to -do with my tale of old times. Not being a professional story-teller, -I suppose I'm not over good at shaping a yarn, especially at the -beginning, but—there's some more rum in that bottle!—if you'll have -patience I shall get into the thick of it directly. - -"Well, the district being what it is in this year of grace eighteen -hundred and seventy, you may easily suppose that, sixteen years ago, it -was quite like coming into an undiscovered world to come up here. At -that time I believe that Karl was really the only settler in the entire -tract of country; and as that comprises between two and three thousand -square miles, and as there were no more Maoris then than there are now, -probably not more than a total of a thousand altogether in all the -little kainga round, it could scarcely be called a populous part of New -Zealand. - -"I don't know what had tempted Karl to select up this way. Probably -accident led him into the Kaipara, and when here he saw his way to -something. There is no doubt that if things had gone straight he might -now have been one of the richest men in the province. However, things -did not go straight, and why they didn't is the subject of my tale. - -"I first happened upon Karl in Auckland, sixteen years ago it is now, -as I have just told you. He was a German by race, but English by -education, and seemed to have knocked about the world a good bit. He -was a tall, powerful man, quiet and composed in general demeanour, -rather pleasant to get on with, well-informed and gentlemanly, but with -a decidedly rough and wild side to his character, which only appeared -now and then. I agreed to hire with him for a spell, and accompanied -him on his return to this district. - -"A year or so previously Karl had purchased Hapuakohe on the Arapaoa -river—that is the place we went to help with the cattle at the other -day, and the best farm in the district it is now. Karl had got about -six thousand acres dirt cheap, as land goes to-day, and had settled on -it at once. Being the first purchaser from the tribe, the Maoris of -the district held him in high esteem, and a lot of the young men gave -him their labour at the start, as part of the bargain. They helped -him to get timber and build a shanty and sheds, to enclose a bit of -ground for potatoes, and so on, and to put up a stockyard. Then Karl -chartered a small vessel from the Manukau, and brought up his various -necessaries—a few head of cattle, some pigs, fowls, a dog or two, and -so forth. - -"Of course he was going to commence with running cattle in the bush, as -we do at present, but a happy chance saved him from the necessity of -this, and all its attendant hard work. Some part of his place had been -in Maori occupation comparatively recently, and was only covered with -fern and ti-tree bush. The season was a very dry one, unusually so, and -Karl was able to burn off all this stuff tolerably clean. He still had -some capital left, and with that was able to buy grass seed, though at -a ruinous price in those times, and sow down his burns. By this means -he got something like a thousand acres of pasture after the rains -came—a thundering good lift, you will say, for a settler in his second -year only. - -"But Karl's grass was not to be compared with what we get on our -clearings. In the first place, the land was poor, and the seed did not -take so well; then, he had sown rather scantily, so that a good deal -of fern and flax and ti-tree came up with the young grass, and made it -patchy and poor. Still, it was a great thing for these parts, where -there is no native grass, for it enabled Karl to run sheep at once. - -"Of course the grass was not all in one piece. It ran in and out among -the standing bush, occupying the lower levels of ranges and the rising -grounds at the bottom of gullies, spreading altogether over a good -stretch of country. Karl got up sheep to stock it, but his capital -was exhausted; and he ran into debt both for the sheep themselves, and -with the shipper who brought them up. Not that this seemed of much -consequence, for a year or two's increase of wool and lambs would pay -off the debt and leave something in hand. But the Maori help he had -didn't last very long; and as his creditors, being poor men, pressed -him a good deal, Karl had to come into Auckland and raise money on -mortgage. - -"Land was low enough in value all over the colony, at that time, and -a block up this way was not thought much of, you may be sure, so that -Karl only got enough, by mortgaging his whole six thousand acres, to -pay off his two creditors and leave him a very small balance. Well, the -prospect was good enough, as any one but a new-chum can see, but all -hung upon the sheep. There did not seem a great risk, but still there -always is a certain amount of that with sheep. Disease did not trouble -Karl much; there need be no great fear on that account in this country, -if a little care be taken. Drought, too, was no matter for anxiety, as -the land was sufficiently well-watered. But it was out of the question -to fence in the grass, so we had to take what chance there was of the -sheep straying, or of the damage wild pigs might do to the young turf, -or of dingoes. - -"Ah! you may laugh, but dingoes were what we feared most then. It has -been proved by this time that if ever dingoes or runaway curs did -exist, they are practically a myth, as far as this part of the island -is concerned. Still, that was not so sure in those days, and the -suspicion that they were in the bush was always a source of trouble -to sheep farmers. The pigs' ravages we could check by a thorough hunt -once or twice a year; and there was not much to fear from the sheep's -straying, as, except one or two particular breeds, they will not go -far into the bush or away from the grass. But the wild dogs were a -different matter, if they came, and no one could be quite sure that any -night might not find them among the flock. - -"Such was the position of affairs when I came to live with Karl. Stop! -I am forgetting one circumstance, the most important, in fact; for, -if it had not been for her, I don't believe Karl would have cared so -much about his farm. He was just the sort of man who is perfectly -indifferent to ruin if it comes, so far as he himself is concerned; but -she made his views of the future entirely of another colour. - -"When loitering about Auckland, while he was getting his mortgage -arranged, Karl got introduced to one or two families. He was not what -you would term a society man, but, for all that, he managed to make -up to a certain young lady he met. They fell in love with one another -and got engaged, with all the usual rapidity of such affairs out here. -There was even some talk of an immediate marriage, but the lady's -father would not hear of that when he came to know Karl's position. -He did not oppose the match in any way, but only stipulated for its -postponement until Karl should have paid off his mortgage, and built a -house more suitable for a family man than his then existing shanty. So -Karl, inflamed with as violent a passion as I ever saw in any man, had -to wait, three years as he calculated, until he was in a really proper -condition to marry. This was a tremendous incentive to him to go ahead -with vigour. - -"When Karl returned to the bush I came with him, and took up my -residence as one of the party at Hapuakohe. Besides myself Karl had -one other chum, and there were two Maori boys who were generally on -the farm, and who gave a good deal of labour in exchange for somewhat -indefinite wages. They were yet unsophisticated in those days, and were -not so fully aware of the pecuniary value of their own labour and time -as they are now. Of course our work was hard and continuous. Looking -after the sheep, especially at lambing time, and shearing them when the -season came round, was the principal item. Then there was occasionally -some job or other with the little herd: half a dozen cows, a bull, and -a few young beasts, who roamed over bush and grass as they pleased, -and had to be got up sometimes, or some trifling dairy work done. Then -there were the usual garden crops, and the pigs to be seen to. Besides -this, one of us had to row and sail the whole fifty miles down to -Helensville every now and then, since there was no nearer place then -where we could have obtained our stores. - -"Nearly six months of the year we were hard at work falling bush and -making new grassed clearings. We made no attempt at fencing, for -Karl considered that the acquisition of more grass for his rapidly -increasing flock was of paramount importance. Getting material, and -fencing the Hapuakohe grass in, would indeed have been a stupendous -task for our three pairs of hands to undertake, owing to the straggling -character of the cleared land, and the consequent extent of the lines -of fence required; moreover, there was no real necessity for it on a -mere sheep-walk. The sheep would not stray very much, and, as Karl -said, the only other reason was the dingoes, and no fence we could -construct would have kept them out. But Karl had made great inquiries -in Auckland, and from the natives, about these alleged wild dogs. He -had not only been unable to find any one who had ever seen one, but -even any one who knew any other person that had. So we almost succeeded -in banishing the thought of them from our minds. - -"Thus a couple of years passed away, and Karl's wool sales enabled him -to bank a small instalment towards paying off his mortgage. However, it -was evident that more than another year must elapse before he was in a -position to marry, for the wages paid to the other man and I, together -with current expenses, cost of more grass seed, and so forth, ate into -the realized sum very deeply. On the other hand, the large annual -increase of the flock would make the returns of each succeeding year -very much greater. But I must tell you of our other chum, since it was -about this time that Karl killed him. - -"Ah! I thought that would startle you and fix your attention. Yes, -there's a murder in my tale, coming presently. Listen! - -"Brail, his name was; the only name I ever knew him by. He was a short, -thickset man, a beggar to work, no matter what he was at. He professed -to be English, but there was evidently some foreign blood in him, for -his skin was darker than ours. His black bristling beard came up nearly -to his eyes, and gave him a formidably ferocious look. He was reserved -and silent, though civil enough to me in a general way. I gathered -little by little, and at various times, that there was a bond of old -standing between Karl and this man. Though he was a paid labourer, just -as I was myself, yet it seemed that they had known one another for -years. It could hardly be friendship as that is ordinarily understood; -for Brail was a disagreeable companion at the best of times, and he and -Karl were for ever snapping and snarling at each other. I concluded -that the latent savagery which was in each, though differently -manifested, formed a sort of tie between them. - -"This Brail had a sullen hang-dog expression, and, at times, a -fierce gleam in his scowling eyes that I did not like. Neither did -Tama-te-Whiti, the old Maori chief, who was my very good friend in -those days, as he has ever remained since. Tama used to visit Hapuakohe -sometimes, and I well recollect his aversion for Brail. After speaking -with him, Tama would often turn to me with an expression of profound -contempt, and hiss out, 'kakino tangata!' I never really knew anything -of the former relations of Karl and this man. I formed a theory from -various little things that reached me, which may be true or may not. -I imagine that Brail had been a convict, possibly a runaway and -bushranger in Australia; that Karl, induced by some old-time regard -for him, had aided him to escape to New Zealand, and had found him an -asylum with himself. Something like this seems probable. - -"Brail possessed a dog, which I must specially mention. It was one of -those big yellow, shaggy-haired curs that are of the original Maori -breed. This beast was trained into a very fair sheep-dog, and did its -work along with the colleys belonging to the farm. It was the one thing -upon earth that Brail seemed really to love, but even in this he showed -his half-barbarous nature; for he would sometimes beat and kick the -poor cur in the most brutal way, and again would caress and fondle it -like a child. Whatever he did to it the dog never left him. It could -scarcely be called obedient, but night or day, waking or sleeping, it -never left its master. The animal was intelligent enough, and had that -curious likeness to Brail that one may notice a dog often gets for its -master. But he prided himself that the dog had some tincture of human -nature in it. He had bought it, when a year old, from a Maori woman, -at the price of two plugs of tobacco; and it seems that this woman had -suckled the whelp herself, in its early infancy, having lost a new-born -child of her own. You know that this peculiar custom of giving suck to -young puppies is not an uncommon thing among Maori women. Brail's dog, -as you will see by-and-by, had certainly acquired some super-canine -qualities, but whether from its human foster-mother or from the -teachings of its master, I cannot tell. - -"Karl was indifferent to the beast. He was a hard man, and a rough -one with all animals. He had no love or tenderness for them; nor did -they show attachment to him. His own dogs obeyed him as their master, -but did not love him as their friend. He cherished his sheep, looking -on them as valuable property, without any feeling for them as living -things. It is a character common in the bush. And this made a frequent -cause for squabbles between him and Brail. Not that Brail cared for -animals a bit more than Karl did, in a general way; only for that -yellow dog of his. Though he often ill-treated it himself, it made him -savage to see any one else do so; and Karl rarely came near it without -a kick or a blow, more to tease Brail, I think, than for any other -reason. - -"All this time Karl used to make excursions down to Auckland as often -as he could, to see his lady-love. He was getting more and more hopeful -about his prospects; and would frequently talk about them to me, and -about her also. But he never spoke on these topics before Brail; and I -could see that he began to have thoughts of getting rid of the coarse, -ill-mannered, foul-tongued ruffian, before he brought his bride up to -the place. As it was, Brail rarely left the run. When he did go down to -Helensville, or across to Whangarei, he invariably indulged in heavy -drinking at the stores. He would fight and brawl with any sawyers or -gum-diggers that might be hanging about; so that 'Karl's black devil -of a chum' was no welcome sight at either settlement. And Karl was -becoming more fastidious, as intercourse with his betrothed refined and -softened his character. - -"One day Karl, in entering the shanty, stumbled over the great carcase -of the yellow dog, as it lay stretched out upon the floor. He kicked it -savagely, and the brute turned and snapped at his leg; though his tall -boots prevented the bite from doing him any harm. However, Karl, being -enraged, seized an axe or something that was standing near and made a -blow at the cur. But Brail rushed forward and seized his arm, and with -one of his usual oaths growled out— - -"'Can't you leave that dog alone? I tell you there'll be a row one of -these times!' - -"The two glared at one another silently for a moment, and then Karl, -still heated, threw down the axe and, laughing lightly, said— - -"'Oh no, there won't; because I'm going to give up both you and the -cur!' - -"'What?' cried Brail, and his teeth set, while an ashen pallor -overspread his face, and his eyes seemed drawn in under his heavy -lowering brows. - -"Karl looked at him, and then seemed vexed, as though he had said -something more than he intended. - -"'There,' he said hastily, 'don't put yourself out. I merely meant that -you'd better look for work somewhere else soon, as I intend altering -things a bit.' - -"'Oh, that's all, is it?' returned Brail, looking relieved. 'It's -well it is all you meant, you know!' and with that he went out. Karl -followed him, and some more passed between them that I did not catch. -But there was a wicked look about Brail that I did not admire. - -"Nothing further came of the incident; both men seemed to have -forgotten it when next they met. Only a day or two after, as we were -working together, Brail addressed a series of rather curious remarks -to me. It never struck me at the time, but afterwards I thought he -must have been trying to find out whether Karl had told me anything of -his—Brail's—past history. I did not know anything of it then, and so -Brail seemed satisfied. - -"It was a custom of ours for one or two to camp out sometimes, when -working on a distant part of the farm, so as to save two or three -miles tramp backwards and forwards every morning and evening. So, after -this, Brail built himself a hut in a little gully some three miles -distant from the shanty. There were some lambing ewes lying on the -grass in that direction, and Brail had to watch these, while falling -bush on one side of the gully at the same time. So he moved up to his -hut, carrying his necessaries along with him, and accompanied by his -dog. - -"Perhaps a fortnight after Brail had been camping up there, I was -milking some of the cows near the shanty towards evening. While so -occupied, I heard Karl's coo-ee from the direction of Brail's camp, -where I knew he had gone. I answered, and presently the signal—three -short quick coo-ees—informed me I had to go to him at once. I coo-ee'd -the answer that I was coming, finished my milking, took the cans into -the shanty, and set out. I ran up along the range, and had got more -than half-way towards Brail's clearing before I saw anything of Karl. I -was in an ill temper at having to go so far, being tired with the day's -work, and so it never struck me that anything might be wrong. - -"Presently I saw Karl sitting on a log, and as I made towards him, -he rose and walked to me. I noticed there was blood on his shirt and -pants, but that simply made me conclude that he had killed a sheep, -and that I was summoned to help carry the mutton home before the flies -could get to it. I merely said crossly— - -"'Well, where is it?' - -"Karl pointed towards Brail's camp without speaking, and we both walked -on. Presently he spoke, in such hoarse, shaky tones, that I turned and -looked closely at him. There was trouble and distress in his face of an -unusual sort. - -"'Old man,' he said, 'you'll stand by me, won't you?' - -"'Of course,' I answered. - -"'Are Wi and Tara back?' he asked then, meaning our two Maori boys, who -had been away at their own village for several days. I replied in the -negative, whereat he responded with a fervent 'Thank God!' - -"'What's up?' I ejaculated in wonder. - -"'I've killed Brail!' he whispered hoarsely. - -"'Good God!' I cried. 'What do you mean, Karl?' and I sat down -involuntarily; for the announcement came almost like a blow. He stood -beside me, evidently deeply agitated. - -"'Look here, old man! You're a true chum, I know. You'll keep this -matter dark, for my sake—for _her_ sake, rather. See here, I swear to -you it was justifiable—nay, it was accident!' - -"I simply nodded. He went on— - -"'I went down to where he was at work without a thought of this; that -I swear before Almighty God. Then that beast of his, that damned dog, -flew at me. I raised my axe to strike at it. He came forward with that -fierce rage on him that you may have noticed sometimes. I heard him -grind his teeth and hiss between them, "You will have it then; you! the -only man who knows my secret, b—— you!" And then he rushed at me with -his knife in hand. I hardly know how it happened. I struck at him with -the axe, meaning to knock the knife out of his hand. That was all I had -in my mind, I take God as my witness—it was all. But somehow, I know -not how, the axe caught him on the head. It was sharp, it was heavy; it -cut through the bone as through the rind of a gourd. He fell—dead!' - -"Karl spoke in hoarse, hurried, spasmodic tones. He wrung my hand in -his, and looked beseechingly into my eyes. - -"'Old man, you and I can share this—secret! You know me; you know I -would not lie to you, not even for my life. You can believe the truth -as I have told it you.' - -"I waved his hand away, then took and wrung it hard. There was no need -for more. I knew the man, I knew what he wanted of me. I understood at -once. It was not fear for himself, it was for her, his wife that was -to be. He had little cause to fear, indeed, for, with such evidence as -I must perforce have given, no jury would have convicted him of more -than manslaughter. But, why make the matter public at all? No one knew -of it, except us two. No one need know of it. The shock of such a thing -would be terrible for the innocent girl he hoped to marry. It might, -probably would, break off the match. - -"All this flashed across my mind. I had been in wild, lawless -countries; I had seen many a violent death; it was no new and terrible -thing to me. Boys! what would you have done? I liked Karl; I loved him, -I think. We were friends; and the dead man I had detested. I believed -every word he had said, as I believe it still. What need for more? -Should I be the one to destroy all his future hopes, just for the sake -of blurting about this miserable affair, to serve no particular end -that I could see? No! - -"I put my hands on poor Karl's shoulders, and looked him steadily in -the face. - -"'Come,' I said, 'let us put this thing out of sight, and—forget it.' - -"He grasped my hands in his, while the tears that welled from his eyes -betrayed the depth and extent of his feelings. Then we went to where -the body lay. I fetched a spade from the hut, and, under the shadow of -some stretching fern-trees, in a secluded nook deep in the heart of a -bit of bush that neither axe nor fire was ever likely to touch, we dug -Brail's grave. - -"We scarcely spoke at all. There was no need for words, for each -of us understood the other so well. When I stripped the body bare, -preparatory to laying it in its final resting-place, Karl simply -nodded. He knew, without my telling him, why I did so. He comprehended -that, in after time, if those bones were ever laid bare, there would -be no vestiges of clothes or tell-tale buttons to give a clue to the -remains. It might be supposed, in such a case, they were those of some -slain warrior of Ngatewhatua or Ngapuhi. - -"And then we gathered together every fragment of the dead man's -property, and laid the things in his hut, and heaped up dead wood and -dry brush, and set fire to the pile, and watched the bonfire blaze to -ashes. And we scattered the ashes in a raupo swamp, and quietly went -home. - -"Anxious we were for some time after, but there was little reason for -us to be so. The Maoris knew that Brail had intended leaving, and -were not surprised when we said he had gone. I myself had conveyed -a message from him to the storekeeper at Helensville, stating that -he was looking for another job. What easier than to tell them there -that he had swagged it through the bush to the east coast settlements? -What simpler than to answer inquiries for him in that direction, by -saying he had gone south? But no one ever cared to make close inquiry -after him. The few who knew him did not like him. Poor wretch! ruffian -as he was, I felt some pity for him; he, lying buried in the bush, -friendless, unloved except by a dog as unlovable as he had been himself. - -"As regards that dog, Karl had told me he had killed it, though he -seemed somewhat confused about the matter when I thought of it and -questioned him. He said that, after he had struck down Brail, his mind -was so overwhelmed with the sudden horror of the affair, that he only -faintly recollected what followed immediately. He fancied the dog -attacked him; at any rate, he was sure he had chopped at it or stabbed -it with his knife, and he distinctly remembered throwing its dead -carcase to one side. So the matter was dismissed, it being merely a -passing matter of surprise to me that I had not noticed the dog's body -at the time. Yet I felt no call to go and look for it subsequently. - -"Months flew by, and the thought of the unlucky affair was becoming -less and less burdensome to us. Shearing time had come and gone, and -the Maoris and one or two men from the settlements, who had come up to -help us with it, had departed. Karl went down to Auckland in the cutter -he had chartered to transfer the season's wool there. It would be the -first time he had seen his betrothed since Brail's death. Ever since -then he had been moody and depressed in spirits, melancholy and unlike -himself. But the soft feminine influence had a vast soothing power over -his mind, and he returned to Hapuakohe cheerful and happy. Care seemed -no longer to weigh him down. - -"Indeed, the prospect was brightening considerably for him. Wool was up -in price; and Karl had not only paid the interest on his mortgage, but -had now a good sum in bank towards paying off the principal. There were -now between two and three thousand sheep on his clearings, and, barring -accidents, another year ought to see him a free man and able to marry. -I, too, participated in the good fortune that seemed to be with us, for -I each year took the bulk of my wages in sheep, continuing them on the -run with Karl's, on the usual system of half gains half risk. - -"Karl was never weary of talking to me of his future wife; about his -love for her, and hers for him; and we even ventured on castle-building -by the fireside of nights. The new house was planned, its site fixed -on, and the cost of it reckoned up. All the free happy life that was to -be we talked over in pleasant anticipation. I was to get a place of my -own and marry, too. But there! You know the sort of talk when times are -good. - -"One night we were sleeping as usual, in our bunks on opposite sides of -the shanty. The fire was out, but the moon shone brightly through many -a chink and crevice in the walls and roof. Suddenly I was awakened by a -terrific scream from my chum. Hastily throwing off my blanket, I leapt -out of the bunk and looked across at him. He was standing in the centre -of the floor, the sweat pouring from his face and chest, his hair wet -with it, his eyes starting, and his whole form shaking so that he could -hardly keep erect. - -"'Karl!' I cried, 'for Heaven's sake, what is it?' - -"My voice seemed to bring him to himself, and, after I had got him a -drink of cold tea, he became calmer, and was able to talk. - -"'My God! I've had a fearful dream!' he said. - -"'A nightmare, I suppose?' responded I. - -"'I don't know,' he returned; 'it was something more frightful than I -ever experienced before. So horribly real, too.' - -"After a while he continued— - -"'I thought that Brail stood before me, just as he did that day when -I—when I—killed him. His face had a detestably evil look, and he -menaced me with his hands. I seemed to hear him say, "My vengeance -is to come!" Then his form gradually changed into that of his big -yellow dog, with fangs like a dragon's, and eyes that burnt horribly. -It seemed to take the shape of a devil's face, springing at me out -of hell, and I heard a confused sound of "Blood for blood!" Then the -horror of it forced me to scream and awake.' - -"Of course I affected to laugh at Karl's dream; one always does -that with the victims of nightmare, I'm sure I don't know why, for -there's nothing laughable about such things when you come to think -of it. However, I discoursed in light fashion about the effects of -imagination, disordered stomachs, and heavy suppers, though I saw all -that I said had no particular effect on his mind. By-and-by we turned -in again, and I slept till morning without further disturbance. - -"When morning came I found that the dream still weighed heavily on -Karl's spirits. He seemed to be possessed of the idea that it 'meant -something,' though precisely what he could not say. He was downhearted -and anxious, and his thoughts naturally turned to the sheep. They -meant so much to him, poor fellow! He proposed that we should both make -a thorough tour of the run, and asked me to catch a couple of horses -that we might the better do so. For we had a few 'scrubbers' about the -place, finding them necessary as economizing our time and strength in -getting about the extensive farm. - -"We set off after breakfast, Karl riding along the top of the range and -I along the bottom, with the dogs following us as of course. The first -gully, the same in which the shanty stood, had nothing to show us. The -sheep on the clearings in it were feeding about as usual. But when we -crossed over the range, and came in view of the wide basin on the other -side, where was nearly five hundred acres of grass, we were surprised -to find no sheep at all visible. We traversed it in all directions, -sending the dogs round all the standing bush, and then we crossed the -further range into a gully where a narrow strip of pasture extended -for some two miles. As we came out of a piece of bush into this, we -perceived the sheep. They were not feeding about in scattered groups, -as was usual, but were collected in one flock, huddled up together. -Some were lying down, panting, and all looked distressed and scared. It -was easy to see they had been driven, and that quite recently. - -"Karl galloped down the slope immediately, but I reined in for a -moment, looking to see if anything was visible to account for this. -Then a shout from Karl made me hasten to join him. He had dismounted, -and was kneeling beside a ewe that lay prostrate on the hill-side. As -I came up he looked at me with a terrible despair in his eyes, and, -pointing to the sheep, said quietly— - -"'That is what my dream meant. Look!' - -"I jumped down and examined the ewe. It was dead; and the mangled -throat and torn wool plainly told the cause. - -"'Wild dogs!' I ejaculated with a bitter curse. - -"We remounted and rode slowly about the clearings, narrowly observing -the condition of the flocks. We found seven-and-thirty sheep dead or -dying, the work of the dog or dogs on the previous night. A good many -more were apparently injured from the driving. We made every possible -search for the beasts that had done this, but not a trace of them was -discoverable. - -"Karl seemed overwhelmed by the disaster. A dark superstition seemed -to have come over him, and to its influence he despairingly succumbed. -Notwithstanding that, however, the innate courage of the man impelled -him, now and to the end, to strive with every nerve against the evil -fate that was pursuing him. Though he despaired from the first, -unnecessarily, as I thought, he was not the sort of man to sit still -with his hands in his pockets. No, he would fight to the last. We -discussed what was possible to be done that day as we surveyed the -slaughtered sheep. Karl croaked gloomily— - -"'There is little use doing anything, however. There is the hand of -God, or of the devil, I know not which, in this. It is a judgment on -me—come from Brail's grave. Through a dog I came to kill him, by a dog -his vengeance comes upon me!' - -"'Bosh!' said I, 'you are letting that nightmare of yours ferment in -your mind. What we've got to do is not to go fancying a pack of nursery -tales, but to set about exterminating these brutes before they do more -damage.' - -"And then a thought struck me. I continued— - -"'By the way, you're quite sure you killed that yellow dog?' - -"'Certain,' was his emphatic reply. - -"I took occasion, as we were riding near the place, to go and make -a thorough search for the skeleton of the dog. I could not find it, -however, though the thick undergrowth about there might certainly -have hidden it all the while. But this satisfied me; I took up an -unreasoning notion that Brail's beast was the sheep-killer, though I -could not attempt to account for why it had never been seen by us, if -it were still living. I thought Karl might easily have been mistaken -in his agitation, in thinking he had killed it; though why it should -have disappeared for nearly a year, and then suddenly and mysteriously -started on a career of crime, was beyond me. Perhaps it had gone mad in -solitude; perhaps Brail's idea of its possessing half-human attributes -by right of its peculiar nurture, might have something in it. The dog -might have learnt a species of rascally cunning from its master. I did -not know; I do not now. Doubtless these thoughts did not all enter my -mind at that time, but have matured since. There is a weird and uncanny -feature in the whole thing that I cannot explain. I simply relate the -facts as I know them, without trying to explain the unexplainable." - - * * * * * - -Here, Old Colonial paused, and lit his pipe meditatively. We, knowing -his hatred of interruptions, said nothing, and presently he took up the -thread of his yarn again. - - * * * * * - -"So we drove the sheep that night upon the clearings in the home gully, -and kept watch over them. But we knew we could not keep them there -long, because of their number, and the scantiness of the feed at that -season. Next day, Karl proceeded to lay poisoned meat about the run; -while I rowed up the river to Tama-te-Whiti's kainga. I told the news -to the Maoris, and Tama, with a score of his men, accompanied me back -to Hapuakohe. - -"We feasted the Maoris that night upon the slaughtered mutton, and held -a great talk upon what should be done. In the morning we sallied forth -to commence a systematic hunt through the surrounding bush, the natives -being delighted to engage in this, especially as there was a prospect, -unfortunately, of unlimited fresh mutton. To our horror, we found that -the enemy had been at work again on the preceding night, and many more -sheep were killed and crippled. This gave us a fresh impulse, and we -went at the hunt with a will. Separating into four parties, under the -respective leadership of Karl, Tama, myself, and another Maori, we -mapped out the country before us to be carefully traversed. Every piece -of bush, every swamp and possible shelter that lay in our way did we -thoroughly beat. The clearings were examined, the dead sheep looked -to, and every attempt was made to find traces of the dingoes; but when -night brought the day's work to a close, we had all been entirely -unsuccessful. Not the smallest trace of the wild dogs had been seen; -only some of the bush-pigs had been found and a few killed incidentally. - -"It is needless for me to continue in detail. For nearly a fortnight -after, the same complete want of success persevered with us. In vain -we scoured the bush far and wide by day, in vain we lay out watching -all night, in vain we had recourse to every stratagem that our united -cunning could devise. The result was always the same. Nothing rewarded -our almost frantic efforts. And almost every night, under our very -noses so to speak, frightful ravages were committed among the flocks. - -"There was something so strange and uncommon about these night attacks, -something so weird in our inability to obtain even a glimpse of the -perpetrators, that the superstitious fancies of the Maoris began to -come into play. I was getting nervous about Karl, for he was gloomy -and abstracted, as well he might be, poor man! I alone knew he was -imagining things and regarding himself as the victim of a dead man's -vengeance. I knew that each fresh loss among the sheep went to his -heart like a knife, for it seemed to divide him further from wedded -happiness. Despair appeared to weigh him down more and more heavily. I -began to fear for his reason. - -"The intelligence of our misfortune was spreading through the country. -Our Maori friends had augmented in number, coming from Tanoa and -Matakohe and all round. The cordial kindness and brotherhood of the -bush rushed in sympathy towards us. From Helensville came a boat-load -of such necessaries as it was thought we should stand most in need -of, with word to say that men would follow. The rough bushmen on the -Wairoa sent to say they would come to our assistance if we needed them. -The generous settlers of Whangarei sent word that they were coming -in a body, to help us hunt down the dingoes, or to put up fences and -pens for us, that Karl might pay for when he could, or not, it did not -matter. - -"All this simple self-sacrificing kindness touched us deeply, but it -failed to rouse my poor chum's spirits. - -"'It is no use,' he murmured. 'I am doomed to ruin. A third of the -flock is gone already. The rest will follow. _She_ can never be mine -now.' - -"'Stuff!' I replied to him. 'Rouse yourself, man. Do not despair yet. -Come, we have work to do. Let us first of all settle these damnation -curs!' - -"'I am with you there! I am with you there!' he answered, his eyes -glittering fiercely, as he rose and grasped his gun. - -"Then came a night I remember well. I lay with Tama and some five or -six Maoris in the bush on the top of a range, that overlooked a wide -stretch of grass in the gullies on either side below us. The night was -balmy and moonlit, for it was near Christmas time, and I was wearied, -so I slept. Around us in the distance sparkled the camp-fires of the -other watchers. Presently I was roused by Tama, who, in an excited -whisper, bade me listen. I peered forth from the edge of the jungle, -and could hear a low, dull, rushing sound. I knew what that meant. -It was a large flock of sheep, running hard. In a moment they came -into view out of the shadows, heading straight for where we crouched, -plainly visible in the flood of moonlight that streamed upon the open -side of the range. I could hear the quick breathing of the Maoris -beside me, as I leant forward keenly intent upon the flock, my gun -ready in my hands. I watched the flock as it streamed rapidly along the -hill-side, and saw that here and there, in its track behind, lay single -sheep, crippled by stumps or holes in the ground, or, as I knew by -experience, with mangled throats that spoke of the fangs of murderous -brutes. We waited and watched, the moonlight gleaming on the barrels of -our ready guns. The flock passed close below us, tearing along in the -utmost extremity of panic. And our levelled weapons were ready. - -"As I am a sinful sinner, what I tell you is the plain unvarnished -truth. As the flock passed below our eyes, we saw no beast of any kind -but sheep. No dog was visible there, that I could swear to. And yet, -close before us, a fine fat wether suddenly leapt up and dropped, so -near that we could see the fresh blood spurting from a wound in its -throat. I rushed out upon the clearing and looked at it; I looked after -the vanishing flock and all around me, but no sign of the destroyer -could I see. A horrible thrill passed all through me, for this was -something mysterious, unnatural, and unnerving. I could not resist the -sudden shivery feeling that crept over me at this most unaccountable -occurrence. - -"And then, from close beside me, rose Tama's shrill coo-ee. Louder and -louder it rang out into the still night, till answers came pealing -from the camps on the ranges around us. After a little we saw the -other watchers coming to us from their various posts on the run, until -presently all were collected together, a silent wondering group—a -hundred Maoris, and Karl and I. Then Tama spoke. What he said I do -not know. It was some vague relation of what we had seen, together -with frequent references to the 'tahipo'—devil—and some 'kararehe -tahipo'—demon dog. But the wild excitement of the chief, the deadly -terror that possessed him, soon infected all the others. They gathered -round him in an eager cluster, and the deep 'Ai,' and 'kuia' that broke -from one and another, testified their earnest attention and concurrence. - -"Then they knelt down, there on the grass around the dead wether. It -was a curious group we made in the moonlight on the hill-side, just -beyond the shadows of the bush. And Tama lifted up his voice—literally -so—and prayed. He prayed through the Lord's Prayer, and the Creed, -and through half the questions and answers of the Catechism beside. -Being agitated, no doubt, he scarcely knew exactly what he was saying. -And then it seemed to me, as well as I could follow the Maori, that he -indulged in an extempore delivery, half prayer, half incantation, to -meet the special requirements of the case. - -"When this performance, so grotesque yet so simply serious, was over, -these half-savage Christians rose and began to take leave of us. They -could not stay to fight devils, they said; God and his angels could -alone do that, and they had prayed that it might be so. Many blubbered -as they shook hands with us; they would have willingly fought for us -with anything of flesh and blood, but terror of the unseen had now -overmastered their sympathy. They hurried away over the range and down -to the beach where their canoes lay, and so, flying from haunted -Hapuakohe, they left us two alone. - -"All this could not fail to have its effect on one's mind. I felt -very uncomfortable, but Karl seemed to take everything as though he -had expected it. When daylight came, and I was able to reason more -calmly about the mystery, I thought I saw a possible solution. It was -evident there could not be several dogs, or we must have seen them, -or traces of them. Probably there was only one, for, great as was the -havoc that had been wrought, I did not think it was impossible for a -single ferocious beast to have caused it. And then I reflected that a -dog might look so like a sheep in the moonlight, as not to be readily -detected among a flock. Why, I remembered that a shaggy, grayish-yellow -cur, such as Brail's dog had been, for instance, was positively -indistinguishable amid a flock of sheep at night, especially when the -moon was shining. But the extraordinary cunning and careful scheming -that seemed apparent in this case were, I confess, beyond my powers to -fathom; nor have I been able to account for them to this day. - -"We did what we could, we two, while we waited for the promised help -from the settlements. You might think we could have shepherded the -flock near the shanty, and guarded them with our dogs; but that we -had found to be impossible. First, grass was scarce there, and we had, -of course, no other feed to give them. Then, they had got so wild with -the constant chasing, that we must have been continually worrying them -with our own dogs, which would only have made matters worse. There was -literally nothing to be done, but to watch for and kill the dingo. - -"Oh! it was a piteous sight to see the dead sheep lying scattered -about the clearings. And among the survivors there were so many hurt -that must die, so many more that were injured so as to be practically -valueless; for the chasing on the rough, stump-covered hill-sides had -done more damage than the actual fangs of the wild dog. I was myself -a sufferer, but my loss was as nothing to poor Karl's. He, I saw, was -ruined, if not irretrievably, at least for some years to come. But this -made his marriage impossible now, unless the lady's parents took a very -different view of things. Surely, I thought, the news must by this time -have got to Auckland. Perhaps the father had already resolved to break -off the match in consequence. I was only a plain, simple bush-farmer, -and it seemed to me that if this girl were true in her love for Karl, -she would certainly leave her father and come to him in his trouble. I -thought I would myself write and tell her to do so, for, you see, I -feared that he would go melancholy mad for loss of her. But the end of -it was come." - - * * * * * - -Again Old Colonial paused, and gazed intently into the fire, with a -sad, grave expression shadowing over his usually jolly, sunburnt face. - - * * * * * - -"I left my camp one morning and strolled across the run to the place -where Karl had been watching. He had selected the top of a steep -bluff that jutted out into the river and that, on the landward side, -overlooked a great extent of the run. As I climbed up the range I -shouted to him repeatedly, but, as there was no answer, I concluded -he was sleeping, and so walked quietly on till I came out on the top. -There were the smouldering remains of his fire, the billy in which -he had boiled his tea, his blanket lying as he had left it, but Karl -himself was not there. I shouted again and looked about me, and then -something made me start. - -"It was his gun lying on the ground. I picked it up, and saw that it -had been discharged. There was blood upon the stock, and stuck to -the hammer was a wisp of coarse yellow hair. Amazed, and filled with -a sudden cold sensation of fear, I examined the ground about me. I -saw grass and bushes trampled and broken as though there had been a -struggle on the spot. I saw splashes and blots of blood here, there, -and everywhere. And then something prompted me to look over the cliff. -What I saw nearly caused me to fall, so horribly did my heart leap in -my throat. Down below there, on the cruel rocks, head downwards on the -beach, lay his body. Dead he was, you could see that from the top. Poor -Karl! - -"I rushed down through the gully on the left, and made my way to where -he lay. His head was broken by the fall, but there were horrible wounds -besides upon his throat and limbs, gaping, torn, and deep, too plainly -the marks of some fierce beast's teeth. And as I knelt beside the body, -weeping, stupified, agonized by the horror of the thing, a fancy crept -into my poor brains that I had been a witness of that scene upon the -bluff the night before; when nought but the moon was there to see, with -the creek singing through the bush in the gully, and the river-tide -sweeping along below. - -"I fancied I saw him sitting moody and despairing by the fire. And up -through the thick jungle of the gully comes stealing the great yellow -body of that dreadful brute, that devilish cur that had first ruined -him and now meant to kill him. I saw it spring upon him as he sat, with -fangs gleaming and savage eyes of fire. I saw the flash of his gun, -the swinging blow, the curse of the man, and the growl of the dog. I -could fancy the ferocious joy upon the face of the half-maddened man as -he grappled with his foe. I saw the hard, fierce struggle—glistening -teeth opposed to flashing steel. And then I saw him conquer, but—only -to seize the ponderous brute, to hurl it from the cliff far into the -river, and, staggering, wounded to the death, overbalancing, to fall -headlong himself. - -"I was roused from this dream by the trampling of horses' feet. It -was the men from Whangarei—kind, cheery, sympathetic souls. They had -ridden all the way—all the fifty miles along the Maori track through -the forest. Poor as they were, they had put aside their own concerns, -and had come over to help us in our trouble. - -"But they were too late—too late! except to help me lay my poor dead -chum to rest. - - * * * * * - -"Ah! you guess now who the lady is that was our hostess at Hapuakohe -the other day. Karl bequeathed to her, as a matter of course, all he -had to leave. But she knows only a small part of what I have been -telling you. There are portions of the tale that neither she nor her -husband know aught of. You can guess what they are. Never hint at -this story in their presence, or in that of their children. I know I -can rely on your silence. Moreover, there is nothing to give rise to -mention of it, for no sheep-worrying wild-dogs, or dingoes, have ever -been heard of in the Kaipara since the day that Karl died. - -"When we were over there, I took the opportunity of visiting the place -where I laid him, long, long ago, as it seems to me now. A thicket of -ferns hides all traces of the grave, and the wooden cross that marked -it has fallen and decayed among them. - -"What matter! He is at rest. And the kind trees that shadow round -him scatter the golden kowhai bells and crimson pohutukawa blossoms -upon his mossy coverlet. The tide flows at his feet, risping over the -oyster-beds, swirling among the mangroves, hurrying to the distant -sea; just as it did on that night so long ago, when it bore with it -away through the moonlit forest—away in secret and unfathomable -mystery—the accursed carcase of the Demon Dog." - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -OUR LUCK. - - -The sun has just risen, and brilliant gleams of light are playing -upon the waters of the Firth of Thames. Above, in the air, rise the -rugged summits of the mountains, that golden range which stretches down -through Coromandel, from Cape Colville to Aroha, a hundred and twenty -miles of El Dorado. And just before us, occupying a flat at the base of -the hills, is the gold-field centre, Grahamstown. - -The steamer which has brought us from Auckland, leaving late last -night, is just drawing alongside the little wharf at Shortland, having, -for some occult reason, passed by the long wooden pier that runs out -into the stream a little lower down, at Grahamstown proper. She is -loaded to the water's edge with a human cargo. There is hardly standing -room aboard of her, though she is a fair-sized craft. Men crowd every -available part of her. Men of all kinds—from the smooth-faced, sleek -young clerk, clean as to linen, gay as to dress, fresh from the -city atmosphere which has hitherto bounded his experience, up to the -hirsute, sun-browned, rough-looking bushman, in jumper, moleskins, -and ankle-jacks. There are men of various nationalities, and of -every class, all eager, expectant, and excited, huddled together -promiscuously, and all have talked through the whole weary night of but -one subject—gold. - -There is a "rush"; that is the explanation of the crowded steamer, of -other crowded steamers and sailing-craft, that have come and will come, -of men on horseback and men on foot, who are converging through the -roadless country from all sides upon the valley of the Thames. A day or -two hence, a new extension of the gold-field is to be proclaimed and -opened. Rumour says the prospectors have struck a reef of unexampled -richness; and almost every one in Northern New Zealand is burning with -anxiety to be on the spot and take up a claim. - -Our shanty has experienced the gold-fever, mainly through the influence -of O'Gaygun. Things had not been very brisk with us of late, and so -it was determined to take a temporary spell of gold-mining. All the -community are partners in the enterprize, but only four of us are -actually going on to the field. Old Colonial was not to be drawn away -from the Pahi, and he, with some of the others, remains to carry on the -farm. O'Gaygun, the Little'un, and the writer, are now landing from the -steamer, while Dandy Jack, who preceded us, is already in Grahamstown. - -You see, even gold-seeking requires some little capital to start one -at it. Here, the mining is all in quartz, which necessitates it. There -is no alluvial washing to enable one to pan out one's dust, and pay -one's way with it from week to week. Now, it happened that we had -scarcely any ready money, so we had to raise it. About a fortnight ago -we chartered a schooner in the Kaipara, loaded her with fat steers, a -few horses, some sheep, barrels of pork, sacks of potatoes, and other -produce, and sent her off. She was to round the North Cape, and to run -for the Thames, and Dandy Jack went with her. In anticipation of the -coming rush, we reckoned that he would be able to sell all the cargo at -a good figure, and have a tolerable sum in hand to carry us on when we -took up our claim. Subsequently, we three others went down to Auckland, -and took the steamer thence. - -The crowd, slowly disgorged on Shortland wharf, turns to walk towards -Grahamstown for the most part. The two places are one town now, being -connected by a street about a mile long. Less than ten years ago -Shortland was the original and only township, and then consisted of a -single store, kept by a half-breed. The land was all owned by natives, -and the stubborn old chief of the district, Te Moananui, could not be -prevailed on to part with territory to the Pakeha. - -Then came the discovery of gold; and at last government got a strip of -land from the Maoris. It was opened as a gold-field on July 27, 1867. -Messrs. Hunt, Cobley, Clarkson, and White are closely connected with -the early history of the place. They were the original prospectors, and -struck it rich. Though having scarcely money enough to buy tools with -at the start, they made a princely fortune out of their claim. - -Later, the Caledonian eclipsed even the enormous success of Hunt's -claim, yielding no less than ten tons of gold during the first year. -Some other claims have done well, and more, of course, have altogether -failed. But the most money has been made on the Stock Exchange. Each -claim is necessarily worked by a company, and some of its scrip is got -into the market. A share may one day not be worth a five pound note, -nay, has even been given for a day's board at an hotel; a month later a -quarter of that share may change hands at £10,000. - -This young town looks a good deal more than its actual age. A good -street runs right from Shortland to Grahamstown, and though there are -gaps here and there, showing how close the untilled wilderness is to -the pavement, yet the shops, the public buildings, the vehicles and -foot-passengers, all evidence a settled town life. There are some short -side-streets, neat houses and trim gardens; there is quite a nucleus at -the Grahamstown end, where the principal batteries and crushing-mills -are situated. There are ten churches and five banks, besides other -public establishments in the place; for the borough has a resident -population of over five thousand, and about as many more in the suburbs -of Tararu and Parawai, and in the district of the gold-field generally. -Such a rush as is now taking place must also largely augment the -population. - -We make straight for the Governor Bowen Hotel, for we are thoroughly -ready for breakfast. There we meet Dandy Jack, calm as ever amid the -stormy excitement that is raging all around, though a feverish glitter -in his eye shows that inwardly he is as other men. He tells us that -he has realized the cargo, but has not done so well with it as we had -sanguinely expected. The Thames was better supplied with provisions -than we supposed. Nevertheless, we have a fair sum in hand to make a -start with. - -Dandy Jack has kept the horses; he says we shall need them. It appears -that the new field is twenty miles or so from here, in a district -called Ohinemuri. The Warden is camped there, and will proclaim the -gold-field two days from now. Not until that is done can any one take -out the necessary permit to dig for gold. And then there will be a -terrible race from the camp to the range where the prospectors' claim -is situated; for every one, of course, will wish to peg out his claim -as near as possible to that reserved for the original discoverers. It -seems that every one is buying or stealing horses for this exciting -event; and Dandy Jack has refused incredibly handsome offers, and kept -the animals he so luckily brought here in order that we may have a -chance of picking out a good claim. - -It is settled among us that Dandy Jack and O'Gaygun shall at once start -for the Warden's Camp. They will go by the native track through the -bush, and will ride, of course. The other two horses they will lead, -loading them with our tools and swag. The Little'un and I remain at -Grahamstown, as we wish to see all we can of gold-mining there. We -shall reach the new field in time for the reading of the proclamation, -getting there by means of a steamer, that is already plying briskly up -and down the river Thames. - -After seeing off the two cavaliers and their packhorses, the Little'un -and I begin roaming about the settlement. By certain friendly offices -we are enabled to visit various claims, among which are Hunt's, the -Kuranui, the Caledonian, and the Golden Crown, of course. We have here -opportunity for seeing all the methods employed for quarrying out the -auriferous rock, and we get much valuable information, and many useful -practical hints regarding geological strata, the lay of the quartz, the -character and variations of gold-reefs, etc. - -Then we visit the great pump, the principal feature of interest in -Grahamstown, as it is, perhaps, the most stupendous enterprise in -the colony as yet. Water had proved a source of much trouble in the -Caledonian and other claims, which penetrated to some depth. An -association was therefore formed for the erection of a pump. £50,000 -was the cost of its erection, and as much more is being spent in -sinking to lower levels. - -The engine has a nominal force of 350 horse power. The cylinder is -eighty-two inches in diameter, and the length of stroke ten feet. The -pump pipes are twenty-five inches diameter; and the machine can raise -ten tons of water per minute. Its operation already extends to a depth -of four hundred feet below the sea-level. The output of the field, -from 1867 to 1875, has been roughly estimated to have been 1,080,202 -ounces, valued at £3,465,093. - -The next objects of interest to us are the quartz-crushing batteries. -Of these we are told there are thirty-six on the field. The smallest -has four stampers, and the largest sixty-two. Most of them have between -twenty and forty stampers. - -We watch some of them at work; seeing the mighty pestles thundering -down upon the blocks and fragments of stone, grinding them slowly into -powder. We see tons and tons of hard shining quartz fed under the feet -of the rows of stampers. Then we see the sandy dust into which the -rock has been disintegrated, undergoing a washing to separate from it -the minute particles of gold. We see it puddled up with water in great -vats, and converted into a thin mud. We see this liquid sent over -"beds," and "floors," and "ladders," and "blanketings," and washed -again and again. Finally we see the gold that was in it collected as -sediment from the various washings. Yellow heaps of it are piled in -appointed places, waiting for removal. Then comes the final process, -the refining with mercury and fire, and the casting of the gold into -ingots. - -Not all the batteries or claims are being worked, for many of their -crews are either gone or going to the new field. But this stoppage is -merely temporary. After the fresh excitement has subsided, the men will -come back to their work, finding that £2 10_s._ or £3 a week of wages -is better than making nothing out of a claim of one's own. - -So we see as much of the place as we can, even climbing up the rugged -ranges, and from their wild summits looking down over the whole -panorama of the gold-field, with the waters of the firth beyond it, -and the bush-clothed heights upon the further shore. And then we -find a novel interest in the _table d'hôtes_ at the hotels, with the -singularly mingled company assembled at them. Everywhere is a feverish -excitement; everywhere every one can talk of nothing but the new Ophir -that is so soon to be opened. - -We even indulge in a game or two of billiards, a rare novelty and -luxury to us bush-farmers of the Kaipara. And we gaze with admiration -and reverence upon the well-displayed charms and attractions of the -barmaids in the saloons. - -One of these ladies, more affable and less assuming than her sisters, -who are haughtily inflated with the deep reverence and homage of -thirsty crowds of men, actually condescends to favour us with a few -words of conversation. We are gratified and honoured beyond measure. - -This most gracious lady informs us that the proprietor of her bar is -about to erect an hotel on the new field, and that she is going up -to tend bar there. But it appears that the glorious profession of -which she is a member is not what it was. Certain regulations that -mine-owners have lately made, anent the taking of "specimens" from -the mines by the paid miners, have almost destroyed a poor girl's -chances. She relates a legend about "the first barmaid" who appeared -at Grahamstown, her predecessor at this very bar. That lady was the -cynosure and magnet for countless courtiers, of course, and she would -seem to have been a very practical and square-headed young woman. Her -many admirers found that to gain a word, a look, a smile, a ravishment -of whatever kind, it was needful to offer a frequent "specimen" for the -lady's acceptance. - -"She was dashing, you know, but not a beauty by any means," says our -informant, with a toss of her be-chignoned head. After a few months, -she sent a boxful of "specimens," the cherished donations of her -hundred slaves, to be crushed at one of the batteries. They realized, -so rumour hath it, some ten or twelve thousand pounds. And the fair -one, satisfied with having blandished this pile out of the Thames, and -probably finding her opportunities at an end, winged her triumphant -flight back to England. - -The gorgeous and bedizened beauty who treats us to this tale, hopes to -do likewise at Ohinemuri. Her attractions are greater than those of -the lucky princess she has been telling us about; or, no doubt, she -secretly considers that they are. She hopes to see us at her new bar, -and trusts we will remember to bring her a "specimen" now and then. -This with a flash of black eyes, that makes the giant Little'un shiver -with emotion in his number fourteen boots, and leaves us both helpless -victims of the siren. - -The afternoon of the next day finds us on board the river steamer, -making our way to the spot where, as we fondly hope, fortune lies -waiting for us. The steamer is cram full, of course, but the voyage -is not to be a long one. Although the Thames river is navigable for -nearly fifty miles, up to the base of Aroha Mountain, we have not got -to go very far up it. Something under a score of miles separates the -new gold-field from Grahamstown. Perhaps a dozen miles from the mouth -of the river we enter its tributary, the Ohinemuri creek. The whole -district around is known as the Ohinemuri Plains, being a portion of -the lower valley of the Thames. - -Our experience of the Grahamstown neighbourhood had led us to expect -anything but a picturesque country. We are agreeably disappointed. The -river winds through what are called plains here, but the term is only -relatively applied. The "plains" are broken with spurs and undulations -from the higher ranges that bound them, and the country is anything but -one uniform level. - -On either hand rise heavy mountainous ranges, sometimes receding far -into the distance, sometimes approaching nearer to the river. Tracts -of splendid forest clothe the country, interspersed with bare rock, -open fern-land, low jungles of light scrub, marsh, and fen. Forest and -mountain form a background to the broad valley through which winds the -(really) silver Thames, abounding with fish, its low banks and firm -sandy shores rich with a luxuriant shrubbery. Further up, every mile -adds to the beauty of the scene around. - -And all this great valley, containing a million acres doubtless, is as -Nature made it, unmarred by the hand of man, save some little spots -here and there, where Maori kaingas are situated, and that limited area -which the gold-seeker now calls his own. It is easy to see that this -must eventually become a magnificent expanse of farming tracts. - -At present all this land is still owned by the natives, a morose -and sullen tribe. Great difficulty was experienced in getting the -Grahamstown field out of their hands, and still more trouble has -surrounded the acquisition by Government of the new extension. The -chief, Te Hira, has been overruled by his counsellors, and has -reluctantly consented to the sale of a portion of his territory. -Already is he disgusted with the advent of the Pakeha, and talks of -retiring with his chief adherents to some wilder solitude. But his -sister, Mere Kuru, who holds equal dignity with himself, seems disposed -to change her ancient habits. She is said to be even welcoming the new -order of things, and is qualifying herself to become a leader of modern -Maori fashionable society. She rules a large kainga, situated on the -Ohinemuri creek, about midway between Cashell's and Paeroa, the two new -landing-places for the gold-field. - -At the latter place we disembark, and proceed at once to the Warden's -camp, which is not far off. It is a scene of glorious confusion. Round -about the tent of the official, with its flag, are grouped sundry other -tents, huts, wharès, breakwinds of every conceivable kind, and of every -possible material. It is dark now, as evening has descended, and the -numerous camp-fires make a lurid light to heighten the wildness of -the scene. Crowds of men are grouped about them, eating, drinking, -singing, shouting, or talking noisily of the everlasting subject—gold. - -Through the camp we pick our way, stumbling over stumps and roots and -boulders, splashing into deep mud and mire, visiting every fire, and -asking for the whereabouts of our chums. We begin to think we shall -never find them amid the confusion of the wild, disorderly camp, and -have some thoughts of applying for hospitality at the next fire. At -length one man, whom we have asked, replies to our questions— - -"Do you mean a pretty sort of chap, looking like a dancing-man or a -barber, and a big, red-headed Irisher with him for a mate? They're over -yonder, camped in Fern-tree Gully. Got some horses with 'em, yes!" - -We thought this evidently must refer to Dandy Jack and O'Gaygun, so we -stumbled down the little dell, and found our surmise was right. We were -quickly welcomed, and supplied with supper. - -Our friends had erected a rude breakwind of poles and fern-fronds, -sufficient to shelter our party from the rain while we slept, should -there be any. A huge fire blazed in front of it; while not far off, -and well in view, the horses were tethered. They were secured in far -more than ordinary fashion, with headstalls, and lariats, and hobbles. -Dandy Jack said there was momentary fear of their being stolen, by -miners anxious to use them on the momentous morrow, and it was even -thought necessary for one of us to keep watch over them all night, -which duty we performed by turns. There was little fear of anything -else being plundered; indeed, next day we left our swag exposed on -the ground without anything being taken. But horses meant odds in the -coming lottery, and the most honest men were willing, just at that -excited moment, to annex temporarily the first they came across. - -At length morning comes, bringing with it the eventful day, the 3rd -of March, 1875, which is to see the opening of the new field. From -earliest dawn the camp is astir; and as the sun climbs the sky, so does -the intense hubbub increase. Oh, for an artist's brush to delineate -that scene! Pen and ink are far too feeble. - -Men move about like swarming bees, eagerly talking and shouting with -all and sundry. Groups are gathered here and there, their eyes one -minute glancing anxiously towards the Warden's tent, the next moment -looking out across the wooded plain, as it swims in the morning -sunshine, towards the towering ranges in the distance, where an abrupt -alteration in their outline shows the situation of the Gorge, the spot -where the prospectors' claim is known to be, the goal of every hope -to-day. - -No one dares to leave his horse now for an instant. Those that have -any, like ourselves, for the most part remain mounted, restlessly -circling about the camp. Every man that could beg, borrow, or steal -it, appears to have got a riding-beast of some sort. A few are even -bestriding bullocks, judging, probably, that in the general scrimmage -and stampede, even those ungainly steeds will distance men on foot. - -We are all equipped with everything immediately necessary, and are -ready for the start. A tumultuous assemblage it is that is now moving -in a perfect frenzy of excitement about the Warden's tent. A concourse -of men—rough men and gentle men, blackguards and honest, young and -old, ragged and spruce, grave and gay, but all fevered to their heart's -core with the burning fury of the gold-digger. - -Amid the throng there move a few Maoris from the neighbouring kainga. -Queer, old, tattooed worthies, half-dressed in European rags, half -draped in frowzy blankets. These are stolid, disdainful. They have come -to see the Pakeha in their mad state. And there are others, younger -men, smiling and chattering, evidently anxious to get excited, too, -could they only understand what all the fuss is about. There is a -contemptuous air about them, a kind of pity for the curious insanity -that is rife among the Pakeha about them. - -And now the wished-for hour approaches. A rude table is rigged up in -front of the Warden's tent, at which clerks take their places. Two or -three of the armed constabulary are visible, ostensibly to keep order, -which it would take more than all the force to do. And a riotous throng -of horsemen and footmen wrestle and struggle for front places near the -table. Apparently, two or three thousand men are waiting eagerly for -the word to start. - -Then the Warden steps forth, looking grave and dignified in his -official coat and cap. He is the only calm person present, and is -received with vociferous exclamation by the crowd. He holds in his -hand a roll of papers, which he proceeds at once to open, mounting a -convenient stump by way of a rostrum. Then he commences to read—the -Riot Act, one would say, looking at the seething, roaring mob around. -In fact, it is the proclamation of the Ohinemuri gold-field, under the -Mining Act of the colonial legislature. But no one can hear a word. - -Presently the reading is done, the Warden lifts his cap with a smile, -announcing that the field is open. A tumult of cheering breaks forth, -and then every one rushes at the clerk's table, and, fighting and -struggling for precedence, dumps down his note (£1) for the "Miner's -Right," which is his license and authority to dig for gold within the -limits of the field. - -I cannot describe that fierce conflict round the table and tent; it -is all confusion in my mind. It is a wild jumble of warring words, -and furiously struggling shoulders and elbows, arms and legs. Somehow -we get our licenses early, mainly owing, I think, to the stalwart -proportions and weighty muscles of the Little'un and O'Gaygun. Out -of the plunging crowd we fight and tear our way, duly armed with our -"authorities." As does every one so do we, namely, fling ourselves -on our horses' backs, and ride headlong across the country in the -direction of the Gorge. - -What a race that is! No run with a pack of English foxhounds could -compare with it. Never a fox-hunter that dared have ridden as we rode -that day, across a country so rough and shaggy. But our incitement is -greater than ever fox-hunter had, for it is a frantic chase for wealth, -with all the madness of gambling thrown into it. It is a race whose -goal is gold! - -There is no road, of course. Our way lies across a country jungled -with fern and scrub and bush. The ground is broken with abrupt descents -and short but rugged rises. There are streams and marshes to be plunged -through or jumped over. There are devious twists and turns to be made -to avoid insurmountable obstacles. Scarce is there a track to show -the way, merely the faintest indication of one cut through the wooded -tracts by the surveyor's gang. And we have six miles and more to make, -riding with frantic eagerness and reckless speed, conscious that two -thousand men have entered for the race, and that only a few can win. - -Thoroughly well mounted, and accustomed from our cattle-driving -experiences to such rough riding as this, we four chums do justice to -the start we managed to get. Not more than a score or so are ahead of -us, and some of them we are overhauling. - -There are dozens of casualties, of course. As we gallop along I see a -man and horse go down, on the steep side of a gully. They roll over -together, and together flounder to the bottom. The unlucky rider -screams with pain, for his legs and ribs are broken, and calls to us -to help him. We hesitate half a moment, but the gold-fever is on us, -and we hurry on. At such a time humanity is dead, even in the most -honourable breast. It is like a battle. - -Again, Dandy Jack and O'Gaygun are in front of me. Before them rides a -regular Thames miner, bestriding a lean and weedy horse of very poor -description. It is easy to see, too, that he is not accustomed to the -saddle, though he is urging his beast to its utmost, and doing all -he knows to get on. We are coursing along the side of a slope, dense -ti-tree jungle above and below us, and only a rough narrow way through -it. The miner's horse ahead stumbles and trips, grows frightened, and -becomes unmanageable, turning broadside on in the narrow path and -blocking it. - -I hear Dandy Jack and O'Gaygun shout in warning, but the miner has no -time to get out of their way. Riding abreast they charge down upon him, -utterly regardless of consequences. Over goes horse and man beneath the -shock of their rushing steeds, and, a moment later, my nag leaps over -the fallen and follows at their heels. - -Oh, the rush and fury of that ride! My head still swims as I think -of it. All sense of care is gone; all thought of risk or accident -banished. A wild, mad excitement surges through every vein, and boils -up within my brain. I only know that hundreds are hurrying after me, -and before me there is a dazzle and glitter of gold. Who heeds the -fallen, the vanquished, the beaten in the race? Who cares for peril to -life or limb? There is but one idea the mind can hold—on! on! - -By-and-by, and when our panting, foaming horses seem utterly giving -out, responding neither to voice nor spur, bit nor whip, we find -ourselves within the Gorge. A splendid mountain scene is that, had -we but time to look at it. We have not. Our worn-out steeds carry -us wearily up and along the steep hill-side, beneath and among the -trees that cast their umbrage all over the golden ground. Climbing, -struggling, pressing ever onward, we pass the grim defile, and, in the -wild and beautiful solitude of primeval nature, we find our goal. - -Through the trees we spy a clearing, lying open and sunlit on the steep -mountain-side. A clearing, hardly to be so designated, for it is merely -a space of some few acres where fallen, half-burnt trees lie prostrate, -jumbled in inextricable confusion with boulders, rocks, jutting crags, -and broken mounds of fresh-turned soil and stone. A handkerchief upon -a post, some newly-split and whitened stakes set here and there around -the _débris_, the babble and vociferation of men, those who have got -before us, around and about, all sufficiently proclaims that our race -is at an end, and that this before us is the prospectors' claim. - -There is no time to be lost, for many behind us are coming on, and -will be upon the ground a few minutes later. And more and more are -coming, pressing onward from the rear with feverish ardour. We spring -from our now useless steeds and hasten to select our ground. Above, and -on each side, nay, even immediately below the prospectors' claim, those -lucky first ones are already pegging out their lawful areas. Depending -on certain indications that a hasty glance reveals, and on advice that -Dandy Jack has previously received in mysterious confidence from one of -the prospectors, we pass below the ground already seized, and there, -a little to the right, we proceed to set up the stakes and clear the -ground that we claim as ours. - -As we proceed to make the dispositions which secure to us that which -we have already named "O'Gaygun's Claim," the row and racket around -rings fiercer over the mountain side. Parties of men are arriving every -moment on the ground, and proceeding at once to map out rock and bush -into squares and parallelograms, and to peg out their several claims. -With the prospectors' claim for centre and nucleus, the area of the -occupied ground momentarily increases. Above, around, below, we are -hemmed in by earth-hungry gold-seekers, who each and all are greedy as -starved tigers for their prey. - -Not without many disputes is the work accomplished. Oath and -remonstrance, angry quarrelling and bandying of words soon transform -that peaceful fastness of nature into a pandemonium of humanity; and -words give place to blows, as boundaries are fixed, and claims measured -off. Fierce fights are waged over many an inch and yard of ground. The -heated blood of the gold-seeker brooks little opposition, and I fear -that even revolvers and knives are shown, if not used, between rival -claimants. - -Yet the hot fury of the rush subsides after a time, and each party -proceeds to investigate what authority allows it, and to reconcile -divisions with its neighbours. Fires are built and camps are formed, -for no one dare leave his claim unoccupied, and preparations are made -for a night more confused and uncomfortable than those previously spent -at the Warden's camp. - -Next day the work commences. The Warden and his aids register the -claims and their respective owners. Parties are told off to cut and -construct a road. Miners begin to build up huts and habitations, and -to bring up from the river their swags, provisions, and tools. Trees -fall beneath the axe; rocks are shattered and the ground disturbed -with pick and spade; while pounding and panning, assaying and testing -goes on vigorously. For no one knows exactly how the reefs will run, -or where the richest stone will be found. Nor can that be more than -conjectured until tunnelling has been carried to some depth. Most of -the claims will prove abortive and valueless; only a few will yield -paying quantities of gold; only one or two, perhaps, will bring wealth -to their owners. We work and hope. - - * * * * * - -Three months later, what have been the results, and what are the -prospects? I stand at the door of the rude hut we live in, and look -abroad over the gold-field, pondering. It is evening, a memorable -evening for us, as will presently appear. But we are depressed and -down-spirited, for luck has not been with us. "O'Gaygun's Claim" -is apparently one of the blankest of blanks in the lottery of the -gold-field. - -What a difference is apparent in the scene around from that it -presented three months ago, when we rode here in wild excitement and -hot haste. The grand and lonely Gorge is now populous with life. Trees -have fallen beneath the axe, and even their stumps have altogether -disappeared over a great extent. The wide hill-side has been riven and -torn and excavated by pick and spade, and gaping tunnels yawn here and -there. Houses and huts and tents have risen all around, and a rough -young town now hangs upon the mountain's shoulder. - -Newness and rawness and crudity are prevailing features of the place, -yet still it begins to look like the abode and workshop of civilized -men. Stores and hotels, primitive but encouraging, hang out their signs -to view; and a road, rough but practicable, winds down across the lower -ground to Paeroa, the river landing-place, where, too, another township -is being nursed into existence. Down below a couple of crushing-mills -are already set up and hard at work, belching forth volumes of smoke, -that almost hides from my view the turbid, muddy waters of the creek -in the gully, as it rolls furiously along. The thunder and thud of the -batteries, the jarring and whirring of machinery, the bustle and stir -of active and unceasing toil, reverberate with noisy clamour among -the rocks, and proclaim that this stronghold of wild nature has been -captured and occupied by man. - -We four chums have not done well; indeed, we have done very badly. We -have prospected our claim in all directions, but without success, and -are now sinking a tunnel deep into the hill-side, in hopes of striking -the reef that ought, we think, to run in a certain direction from where -its upper levels are being successfully quarried in the prospectors' -claim above us. We have stuck to the claim so far, urged by some -fanciful belief not to give it up, and it bids fair to ruin us. Our -funds are quite exhausted, and in another week we shall be compelled to -give up the claim, to take work on wages here or at Grahamstown, and so -raise means to get ourselves back to the Kaipara. - -For the expenses have been great. What with buying provisions at -frightful prices, buying implements and some bits of machinery, paying -for the crushing of quartz that never yielded more than delusive traces -of gold, and so on and so forth, our slender capital has melted away -into nothingness. True, we have formed ourselves into a company, and -have tried to sell some scrip. But the market is flooded with mining -shares just now, and ours are not worth a bottle of whisky apiece. -Moreover, "O'Gaygun's Claim" is fast becoming the laughing-stock of -the field. There are no believers in it except ourselves. Every other -claim that proved as valueless as ours has been long ago abandoned; -only we stick to our tunnel, driving at it with frantic energy. And -our life is harder here than in our shanty. We are ill-provided, and -have all the wet and mud and mire of the rainy season now to help make -things uncomfortable for us. Our food is coarse, and not too plentiful. -Damper, tea, salt-pork, potatoes, and not always all of those. Is it -any wonder we are despondent? - -As I stand there that evening, cogitating over the gloomy outlook, two -of the others come out of the tunnel bearing a sackful of stone between -them. I see a new expression on their faces, and eagerly turn to them. - -"Something fresh. Hush! Not a word. Come into the house, quick!" - -So says Dandy Jack to me, hoarsely and hurriedly. Alas! poor man, he is -hardly a dandy at present, and even his complacent calm seems to have -forsaken him at last. - -In the hut we anxiously crowd together, examining the specimens just -brought out of the mine. There are lumps of grey and dirty-white -quartz, flecked with little spots and speckles of metallic yellow. Is -it gold? That is the question. - -"Ah! it's just the same ould story!" growls O'Gaygun. "Mica or pyrites, -that's about all we've the luck to find, bad cess to them! All's not -gould that glitters, boys; an' there's precious little av the thrue -stuff comin' our way." - -"Shut up, you Irish croaker!" says Dandy Jack, without moving, as he -lies on his face near the fire, intently examining a piece of quartz, -licking it with his tongue, scratching it with his nails, and hefting -it in his palms. "There's many a rough dirty stone that hides good gold -within it. And," he adds, rising up, "we _have_ got it this time. Boys! -_we've struck the reef!_" - -A few minutes later we were scouring down to the battery, bearing -samples of the precious stone; and before the camp had gone to rest -that night a hubbub and excitement had spread through it, for, it was -the common topic of talk that rich stone had been discovered upon -"O'Gaygun's Claim." Next day and next week we were besieged. Crowds -wanted to see the claim, numbers wanted to buy shares in it, and would -give hundreds and even thousands of pounds for them. We were elate, -excited, conceited, madder than ever with our luck, that at last had -come. - -Well, eventually it proved that the find was but a "blind reef," a -"pocket," a mere isolated dribble from the main continuous vein we had -at first supposed we had struck. But it filled our pockets, giving us -more wealth than we had ever before possessed. Had we been wiser we -might have made more money by selling the claim directly after the -find; but we held on too long. However, we made a very pretty little -pile, not a fortune exactly, but the nucleus of one; and finally we -sold the claim for a good round sum to a joint stock company, cleared -out, and separated on the various ways we had chalked out for ourselves. - - * * * * * - -I find I can write no more, for many things are happening. O'Gaygun has -set up as a stockbroker in Auckland, and will gamble away his share of -our luck in gold-mine scrip. Dandy Jack has bought a large improved -farm, and is collecting and importing a stud of brood mares. He is -going to develop the equine resources of the colony. The Little'un has -gone to Canterbury, intending to run sheep upon a large scale. And I am -going to Australia and Fiji, perhaps home to England—who knows! - -At Te Pahi amazing progress is taking place. A wharf is being -constructed at the township, and a fine new steamer is being contracted -for. Some new settlers have been tempted to come up into the district, -and gangs of workmen are being hired from afar. A church has been -subscribed for, and will soon be built. The Saint is erecting an hotel; -and the Fiend is putting up a flour-mill. Old Colonial is going to get -married, and a grand mansion, in the style of the Member's residence, -is going up near the site of our shanty. - -As I stand on the deck of the vessel that bears me away from New -Zealand, I am filled with profound regrets at leaving the life I have -grown to love so well. But it is not for long; only for a season have I -said farewell to the friends with whom I have toiled and struggled so -long. I shall return some day, soon, to make my home in the beautiful -land where the kauri grows. And the sun shines more brilliantly -than ever upon the shores receding from my gaze, fit emblem of the -prosperity of that glad new country, which we who love it like to call -our "Brighter Britain." - - - - -APPENDIX. - -SOME BOOKS ON NEW ZEALAND. - - -George F. Angas. "The New Zealanders." Folio. London. 1847. - - _A large collection of handsomely coloured plates._ - -"Rambles at the Antipodes." 8vo. London. 1859. Illustrated. - - _Contains a slight account of New Zealand, in addition to matter - relating to Australia._ - -"The Australian Hand-book." (Gordon and Gotch.) London, Sydney, etc. -1881, and annually. - - _Extensive and varied information. Copious details of much value - relating to New Zealand._ - -Lady M. A. Barker. "Station Life in New Zealand." London. 1871. - - _Description of home-life and experiences in Canterbury Province._ - -Alexander Bathgate. "Colonial Experiences." Glasgow. 1874. - - _Chiefly relates to Otago, and mining matters._ - -Alexander Bathgate. "Waitaruna; a Tale of New Zealand Life." London. -1881. - -John Bathgate. (Judge.) "New Zealand; its Resources and Prospects." -Edinburgh. 1880. - - _A useful summary of facts and figures._ - -C. D. Barraud. "New Zealand; Graphic and Descriptive." London. 1877. -Illustrations by C. D. B. Letter-press by W. L. Travers. Folio. - - _An elaborately got up and beautiful album of New Zealand scenery. - Coloured plates._ - -Beaven's "Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand." London. 1842. - -J. C. Bidwell. "Rambles in New Zealand." London. 1841. - - _One of the earliest recorded visits to the Lakes, the Hot-springs, - and Tongariro._ - -S. C. Brees. "Pictorial Illustrations of New Zealand." London. 1846. - -Walter Brodie. "Past and Present state of New Zealand." London. 1845. - -W. Brown. "New Zealand and its Aborigines." London. 1845. - -Brunner's "Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of the South -Island." In the Geographical Society's "Proceedings." 1846. - - _B. received the Society's gold medal for this exploit._ - -"The Laws of England, compiled and translated into Maori." By desire of -Governor Browne. Auckland. 1858. - -Lord Brougham. "The New Zealanders." Published in Knight's Library of -Entertaining Knowledge. London. 1830. - - _Edited by Lord B. Compiled from all the data available at that time. - Contains the narrative of Rutherford, a sailor who lived among the - Maoris. Has very quaint woodcuts._ - -James Busby. "Our Colonial Empire, and the Case of New Zealand." -London. 1865. - - _The writer was British Resident for a short while before colonization - in 1840. The book deals with governmental matters._ - -Rev. J. Berry. Narrative in "Constable's Miscellany." Vol. iv. London. -1820. - -W. L. Buller, Sc.D. etc. "A History of the Birds of New Zealand." -London. 1873. Quarto. Coloured plates. - - _The best and most complete work on New Zealand ornithology. - Handsomely illustrating 145 species._ - -W. L. Buller, Sc.D. etc. An Essay on the "Ornithology of New Zealand." -Published for the Commissioners of the New Zealand Exhibition. Dunedin. -1865. - -Rev. Jas. Buller. "New Zealand, Past and Present." London. 1880. - - _A short historical sketch._ - -Chambers' "Emigrants' Manual." Edinburgh. 1849. - - _There have been more recent editions of this._ - -George T. Chapman. "Gazetteer of Auckland Province." Auckland. 1867. - -G. T. Chapman. "The Traveller's Guide to New Zealand." Auckland. 1872. - -G. T. Chapman. "The Circumnavigator. Cook Centenary." Auckland. 1870. - - _This volume is a creditable performance for the young publishing - industries of the colony._ - -"A Chequered Career; or, Fifteen Years in Australia and New Zealand." -London. 1881. - - _Amusing light reading._ - -The Church Missionary Society's Proceedings, Reports, and Publications. -From 1814 and after. London. - -"Captain Cook's Voyages." - -A. Clayden. "The England of the Pacific." London. 1879. - - _Lectures, and letters furnished to the "Daily News." Illustrated._ - -An Old Colonist. "Colonial Experiences; or Incidents and Reminiscences -of Thirty-four Years in New Zealand." London. 1877. - - _Some interesting details of early days in Wellington and Nelson._ - -J. C. Crawford. "Travels in New Zealand and Australia." London. 1880. - - _Of slight interest._ - -Major Richard A. Cruise. "Ten Months' Residence in New Zealand." -London. 1823. - - _He commanded a detachment sent in charge of convicts to Tasmania, - afterwards proceeding to New Zealand in the "Dromedary," which vessel - had been despatched by the British Government to cut spars of kauri - timber._ - -M. Crozet. "Nouveau Voyage à la Mer du Sud." Paris. 1805. - - _Contains an account of the massacre of Marion du Fresne and his - people in 1772._ - -C. Darwin. "Voyage of a Naturalist." London. 1845. - -E. Dieffenbach, M.D. "Travels in New Zealand." 2 vols. Illustrated. -London. 1843. - - _This was considered the standard descriptive work until Dr. - Hochstetter's book appeared and superseded it._ - -Sir Charles W. Dilke. "Greater Britain. A Record of Travel in -English-speaking countries." London. 1868. 2 vols. - - _He visited New Zealand, among other places._ - -Dumont D'Urville. "Voyages dans l'Astrolabe." Paris. 1833. - - _Contains some excellent plates of New Zealand plants._ - -Augustus Earle. "Narrative of Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand" in -1827. London. 1832. - - _Readable. This author was inclined to be antagonistic to the early - missionaries._ - -William Ellis. "Polynesian Researches." 5 vols. London. 1831. - -Captain Fitzroy. "Voyages of the 'Adventure' and the 'Beagle.'" London. -1839. - - _Captain F. was subsequently Governor of New Zealand._ - -Sir William Fox. "The Six Colonies of New Zealand." London. 1851. - - _Sir William was at one time Premier of New Zealand and has recently - received the honour of a baronetcy._ - -Sir William Fox. "The War in New Zealand." London. 1860 and 1866. - -Captain F. Fuller. "Five Years' Residence in New Zealand." London. 1859. - - _The writer was a settler in Canterbury._ - -Sir George Grey. "Journal of Expedition overland from Auckland to -Taranaki, in 1849." Auckland. 1851. - -Sir G. Grey. "Ko Nga Moteatea, etc.—Poems and Chaunts of the Maori." -Wellington. 1851. - -Sir G. Grey. "Ko Nga Mahinga, etc.—Mythology and Traditions of the -Maori." London. 1854. - -Sir G. Grey. "Ko Nga Whakapehapeha, etc.—Proverbs and Sayings of the -Maori." Capetown. 1857. - -Sir G. Grey. "Maori Mementos." Auckland. 1855. - -Sir G. Grey. "Polynesian Mythology, and Ancient Traditional History of -the Maori Race." London. 1855. - - _Sir George is, perhaps, the best living master of the Maori tongue._ - -J. E. Gorst. "The Maori King." London. 1864. - - _The history of the Waikato War, admirably related._ - -John Gould. "Birds of Australia." 8 vols. Large folio. London. 1849-68. - - _The supplement to the eighth volume contains some of the New Zealand - birds. They are accurately drawn and coloured, life-size. The same - author's "Handbook of Birds of Australia" contains scientific - descriptions of some New Zealand species._ - -Dr. J. Hann. "Meteorological Report, and Essay on the Climate of New -Zealand." Colonial Meteorological Department. Wellington. 1874. - -T. Heale. "New Zealand and the New Zealand Company." London. 1842. - -Dr. J. Hector. "Reports." Geological Survey Department. Wellington. -1868, and since. - -Dr. J. Hector, and E. von Martens. "Critical List of the Mollusca -of New Zealand." Colonial Museum and Geological Survey Department. -Wellington. 1873. - -Dr. Ferdinand von Hochstetter. "New Zealand, its Physical Geography, -Geology, and Natural History." Translated into English by E. Sauter. -Stuttgart. 1867. - - _A valuable and standard work. Well illustrated in colours._ - -Sir Joseph D. Hooker. "The Botany of the Antarctic Voyage of H.M. -Discovery Ships Erebus and Terror. Part II. Flora Novæ Zelandiæ." 2 -vols. Quarto. London. 1853. - - _A splendidly illustrated work._ - -Sir J. D. Hooker. "Handbook of the New Zealand Flora." London. 1864. - - _The standard botanical work._ - -W. Howitt. "The History of Discovery in Australia, Tasmania, and New -Zealand." London. 1865. 2 vols. - - _The second volume contains some account of exploring expeditions in - New Zealand._ - -Charles Hursthouse. "Account of the New Plymouth Settlement." London. -1849. - -Charles Hursthouse. "New Zealand or Zealandia, the Britain of the -South." London. 1857. - - _Copious information of a thoroughly reliable and practical sort. - Racily written. The best book ever offered to possible emigrants._ - -F. W. Hutton. "The Tertiary Mollusca and Echinodermata of New Zealand." -Colonial Museum and Geological Survey Department. Wellington. 1873. - -F. W. Hutton. "Catalogue of the Echinodermata of New Zealand." With -Diagnoses, etc. Colonial Museum and Geological Survey Department. -Wellington. 1872. - -F. W. Hutton and G. Hector. "The Fishes of New Zealand." Illustrated. -Colonial Museum and Geological Survey Department. Wellington. 1872. - - _Good._ - -F. W. Hutton. "The Marine Mollusca of New Zealand." Colonial Museum and -Geological Survey Department. Wellington. 1873. - -"Land Mollusca of New Zealand." Collected from various authors. -Colonial Museum and Geological Survey Department. Wellington. 1873. - -J. Jameson. "New Zealand." London. 1842. - -Lacy Kemp. "Pocket Vocabulary of Colloquial Maori and English." -Auckland. 1848. - -Alex. Kennedy. "New Zealand." London. 1874. - - _A capital history in brief._ - -Professor Lee (Cambridge). "Grammar of the Language of New Zealand," -compiled from data furnished by Mr. Kendall, Hongi and Waikato. London. -1820. - - _Known as "Kendall's Grammar."_ - -Judge Maning. "Old New Zealand; being Incidents of Native Customs and -Character in the Old Times." By a Pakeha-Maori. London. 1863. - - _A stirring narrative of "the old days" of war and cannibalism._ - -Judge Maning. "Old New Zealand; together with a History of the War in -the North against the Chief Heke, in 1845, as told by a Chief of the -Ngapuhi." Edited by the Earl of Pembroke. London. 1876. - - _The addition is striking and characteristic._ - -A. Marjoribanks. "Travels in New Zealand." London. 1846. - -Rev. Samuel Marsden. "Journal of Visits to New Zealand." London. 1822, -etc. - - _Originally published in the C.M.S. "Proceedings." Mr. Marsden made - five visits to New Zealand. He was the first to preach the gospel - there._ - -Dr. S. M. D. Martin. "New Zealand, with Historical Remarks." London. -1845. - -Rev. R. Maunsell. "Grammar of the New Zealand Language." Auckland. -1842. Revised edition, London. 1862. - -Colonel Mundy. "Our Antipodes." 3 vols. London. 1852. - - _Vol. 3 contains an account of New Zealand._ - -D. L. Mundy. "The Southern Wonderland. Rotomahana, etc." A series of -Photographic Views. Folio. London. 1875. - - _Very fine. There are other photographs published in London, besides - those contained in this volume._ - -"The Natural Wonders of New Zealand." London. 1881. - - _A revised edition of Chapman's Guide. An historical and descriptive - account of the Hot Lakes._ - -"The New Zealand Company's Reports." London. 1840-1858. - - _These are very copious._ - -John L. Nicholas. "Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand." 2 vols. -London. 1817. - - _An interesting account of the Rev. S. Marsden's first landing - in New Zealand in 1814. The author went with the pioneer band of - missionaries._ - -Commander R. A. Oliver. "Lithographic Drawings from Sketches in New -Zealand." Folio. London. 1852. - - _Coloured pictures; fair, but not equal to Angas'._ - -"Outline of the Political and Physical Geography of Australia, -Tasmania, and New Zealand." Collin's Series of School-books. London and -Glasgow. 1876. - -"Poenamo. Sketches of the early days of New Zealand." London. 1880. - - _Deals with Hauraki Gulf. Of very trifling interest._ - -J. S. Polack. "Travels in New Zealand." 2 vols. London. 1838. - -J. S. Polack. "Manners and Customs of the New Zealanders." 2 vols. -London. 1840. Illustrated. - - _Both Mr. Polack's books are very quaint and amusing._ - -G. S. Baden-Powell. "New Homes for the Old Country." London. 1872. - - _Mostly deals with Australian life, but also contains some New Zealand - information._ - -W. T. Power. "Sketches of New Zealand." London. 1849. - -Abbé Rochon. "Voyages aux Indes Orientales." Tom. iii. Paris. 1802. - - _Contains accounts of the voyages of the French explorers, De - Bougainville, De Surville, Marion du Fresne, Crozet, and others._ - -Richard Rose. "The New Zealand Guide." London. 1879. - - _A little manual for intending emigrants. Gives some useful - information._ - -"Robinson Crusoe," translated into Maori. Wellington. 1851. - -E. Shortland. "The Southern Districts in New Zealand." London. 1851. - -E. Shortland. "Traditions and Superstitions of the New Zealanders." -London. 1854. - -John Savage. "Some Account of New Zealand." London. 1807. - - _He visited the Bay of Islands, and brought home a Maori to England. - Extremely interesting._ - -W. Swainson. "New Zealand and its Colonization." London. 1859. - -W. Swainson. "New Zealand and the War." London. 1862. - - _Both books deal with details of law and government._ - -(S. W. Silver and Co.) "Handbook for Australia, New Zealand, and Fiji." -London, etc. 1874. - -Rev. Richard Taylor, F.G.S. "A Leaf from the Natural History of New -Zealand." Auckland. 1848. - -Rev. R. Taylor. "New Zealand and its Inhabitants." London. 1856. - -Rev. R. Taylor. "The Past and Present of New Zealand." London. 1868. - -Rev. R. Taylor. "Te Ika a Maui." London. 1870. - - _This is the best of Mr. Taylor's books, containing a very exhaustive - and studious account of old Maori manners and customs. All his books - are good; but missionary class prejudice is occasionally somewhat - strong in the others._ - -Rev. R. Taylor. "Maori-English Dictionary." Auckland. 1870. - -Charles Terry. "New Zealand, its Advantages and Prospects." London. -1842. - - _Refers to Auckland._ - -Arthur S. Thomson, M.D. "The Story of New Zealand, Past and Present, -Savage and Civilized." 2 vols. London. 1859. Illustrated. - - _A good and valuable work. A standard authority on the history of - the wars between the first settlers and the Maoris. Appended is a - Catalogue of New Zealand bibliography down to 1859, fairly full and - accurate._ - -Mrs. C. Thomson. "Twelve Years in Canterbury, New Zealand; from a -Lady's Journal." London. 1867. - - _Small details of home life and personal matters._ - -Anthony Trollope. "New Zealand." London. 1874. - - _The result of a rapid tour through the Colony._ - -Miss Tucker. "The Southern Cross and the Southern Crown, or the Early -History of the Gospel in New Zealand." London. 1855. - - _A big title, but a little book._ - -Sir Julius Vogel. "Great Britain and her Colonies." London. 1865. - -Sir Julius Vogel. "New Zealand and the South Sea Islands, and their -Relation to the Empire." London. 1878. - - _Deals with the author's great scheme of federation and colonization, - enunciated by him when Premier of New Zealand._ - -Sir Julius Vogel. "The Official Handbook of New Zealand." Papers -by various hands, collected and edited by Sir Julius Vogel. With -illustrations and maps. London. 1875. - - _The best and latest compilation of the kind._ - -Sir Julius Vogel. "Land and Farming in New Zealand." Information -respecting the mode of acquiring land; with particulars as to farming, -wages, prices, etc. Also the Land Acts of 1877, and maps. - - _Contains very good maps. This, together with the Handbook, are - published at the New Zealand Government offices in London, and are - designed to furnish every information to all classes of inquirers._ - -E. Jerningham Wakefield. "Adventures in New Zealand." 2 vols. London. -1845. - - _Interesting. Together with it was published a volume of sketches and - views._ - -E. Jerningham Wakefield. "Handbook of New Zealand." London. 1848. - -The Wellington Chamber of Commerce. "Annual Reports." Wellington. 1864, -etc. - -The Wesleyan Missionary "Reports." London. 1820, and since. Also, -from the same date, various publications of the Society for Promoting -Christian Knowledge; of the Aborigines' Protection Society; of the -London Missionary Society; and, the "Missionary Register." - -Whateley's "Easy Letters on Money Matters," translated into Maori. -Wellington. 1851. - -Rev. John Williams. "A Narrative of Missionary Enterprises." London. -1838. - -Rev. W. Williams (Bishop of Waiapu). "A Dictionary and Grammar of the -New Zealand Language." Auckland. 1844. - - _Later and improved editions have been published in London, in 1852 - and 1871._ - -Ven. W. L. Williams. "First Lessons in Maori." London. 1872. - -N.B. I cannot claim that the above list is a complete one. It is not. -It merely contains the books I have been able to come across. Dr. -Thomson compiled a careful list of all publications relating to New -Zealand down to the year 1859. Such a task would be very much more -arduous now, and the result would not repay the trouble bestowed on -it. There have been, both before and since 1859, shoals of pamphlets -bearing on matters connected with the colony. Since that year, too, the -periodical literature of Great Britain, Australia, the United States, -and other countries, has contained countless articles on New Zealand -subjects. Finally, "Brighter Britain" has now a literature of its -own. Its press and its publishers are busy. Yet, I think, that in the -foregoing catalogue will be found all, or nearly all, the substantial -volumes immediately relating to New Zealand that the general reader, or -particular inquirer, need care to become acquainted with. - - -THE NEW ZEALAND PRESS. - -(Transcriber's Note: This table has been split into two sections) - --------------+------------------+-------------------------+---------+ - |Population accord-| | | - |ing to Census and | | | - |estimates 1879-80.| | | - Name of Town. +--------+---------+ Title of Newspaper or | Issue. | - | | Popula- | Journal. | | - |Popula- | tion of | | | - |tion of |Town and | | | - | Town. |District.| | | - --------------+--------+---------+-------------------------+---------+ - Auckland | 13,758 | 31,401 | The Southern Cross | Daily | - | | | The New Zealand Herald | " | - | | | The Evening Star | " | - | | | The Weekly News | Weekly | - | | | The Weekly Herald | " | - | | | The Saturday Night | " | - | | | The Presbyterian Church | | - | | | News | Monthly | - | | | The Church Gazette | " | - | | | The New Zealand Almanac | Annually| - | | | | | - Coromandel | 2,053 | | The Coromandel Mail |Tri-weekly| - | | | The Coromandel News | " | - | | | | | - Grahamstown, | 5,424 | 10,423 | The Thames Advertiser | Daily | - _with | | | The Thames Evening Star | " | - Shortland_ | | | The Thames Exchange | Weekly | - | | | Enoch | " | - | | | | | - Gisborne | 1,204 | | The Poverty Bay Standard|Bi-weekly| - | | | The Poverty Bay Herald | Daily | - | | | | | - Kororareka | 329 | | The Northern Luminary | Weekly | - (_Russell_) | | | | | - Whangarei | 1,288 | 2,906 |The Whangarei Comet and | | - | | | Northern Advocate | Weekly | - | | | | | - Hamilton | 1,243 | -- |The Waikato Times |Tri-weekly| - | | | | | - Ngaruawahia | 277 | -- |The Waikato News | " | - (_Newcastle_)| | | | | - | | | | | - Tauranga | 793 | 2,770 |The Bay of Plenty Times | Weekly | - | | | | | - New Plymouth | 2,678 | -- |The Taranaki Herald |Bi-weekly| - | | |The Taranaki News | Weekly | - | | |The Evening Budget | Daily | - | | | | | - Wairoa | 120 | -- |The Wairoa Free Press | Weekly | - (_Clyde_) | | | | | - | | | | | - Napier | 6,550 | -- |The Hawke's Bay Herald | Daily | - | | |The Hawke's Bay Telegraph| " | - | | |The Hawke's Bay Times |Bi-weekly| - | | |The Hawke's Bay Weekly - | | | Courier | Weekly | - | | |The Hawke's Bay Weekly | | - | | Z Telegraph | " | - | | |The Hawke's Bay Weekly | | - | | | Mercury | " | - | | |The Hawke's Bay Evening | | - | | | Star | Daily | - | | |Te Wananga (_Maori_) | Weekly | - | | | | | - WELLINGTON | 18,953 | 21,005 |The New Zealand Times | Daily | - | | |The Wellington Independent| " | - | | |The Wellington Tribune | " | - | | |The Evening Post | " | - | | |The Evening Argus | " | - | | |The New Zealand Mail | Weekly | - | | |The New Zealander | " | - | | |The Illustrated New | | - | | | Zealand News | " | - | | |Te Waka Maori (_Maori_)|Fortnightly| - | | |The New Zealand Magazine | Monthly | - | | |The New Zealand Bradshaw | " | - | | |The Church Chronicle | " | - | | |The New Zealand Quarterly| | - | | | Review |Quarterly| - | | | | | - Greytown | 1,400 | -- |The Wairarapa Standard |Bi-weekly| - | | | | | - Carterton | 446 | -- |The Wairarapa Guardian | " | - | | | | | - Masterton | 1,673 | -- |The Wairarapa Daily | Daily | - | | | | | - Palmerston | 880 | -- |The Manawatu Times | Weekly | - (_North_) | | | | | - | | | | | - Foxton | 563 | -- |The Manawatu Herald | " | - | | | | | - Wanganui | 4,163 | 7,744 |The Wanganui Chronicle | Daily | - | | |The Wanganui Evening Herald| " | - | | |The Weekly Chronicle | Weekly | - | | |The Weekly Herald | " | - | | | | | - Carlyle | 405 | -- |The Patea Mail | " | - | | | | | - Hawera | 500 | -- |The Hawera and Normanby Star| " | - | | | | | - Marton | 850 | -- |The Rangitikei Advocate | " | - | | | | | - Nelson | 6,804 | 8,810 |The Nelson Times | Daily | - | | |The Nelson Evening Mail | " | - | | |The Nelson Colonist |Tri-weekly| - | | | | | - Westport | 1,166 | 1,800 |The Buller News | Daily | - | | |The Westport Evening Star| Daily | - | | |The Westport Times | " | - | | | | | - Charleston | 185 | -- |The Charleston Herald |Bi-weekly| - | | |The Charleston News | Weekly | - | | | | | - Reefton | 1,031 | 2,645 |The Inangahua Courier | Daily | - | | |The Inangahua Herald |Tri-weekly| - | | |The Inangahua Times | " | - | | | | | - Lyell | 250 | -- |The Lyell Argus |Bi-weekly| - | | | | | - Blenheim | 1,701 | -- |The Marlborough Express | Daily | - | | |The Marlborough Times | " | - | | |The Weekly Express | Weekly | - | | |The Weekly Times | " | - | | | | | - Kaikoura | 200 | 600 |The Kaikoura Herald | " | - | | | | | - Picton | 703 | 3,009 |The Marlborough Press | " | - | | | | | - Hokitika | 3,203 | -- |The West Coast Times | Daily | - | | |The Evening Star | " | - | | |The Westland Register | Weekly | - | | |The Leader | " | - | | | | | - Greymouth | 2,921 | -- |The Grey River Argus | Daily | - | | |The Greymouth Star | " | - | | |The Weekly Argus | Weekly | - | | |The Grey River Press | " | - | | | | | - Ross | 1,068 | -- |The Ross Guardian |Tri-weekly| - | | | | | - Lyttelton | 3,653 | -- |The Lyttelton Times | Daily | - | | |The Lyttelton Evening Star| " | - | | |The Lyttelton Globe | Weekly | - | | |The Canterbury Times | " | - | | |The Canterbury | | - | | | Illustrated Press | " | - | | | | | - Christchurch | 15,156 | 32,031 |The Canterbury Press | Daily | - | | |The Evening Globe | " | - | | |The Weekly Press | Weekly | - | | |The New Zealand Sun | " | - | | |The Illustrated News | " | - | | |The New Zealand Presbyterian| " | - | | |The New Zealand Church | | - | | | News | Monthly | - | | |Te Mokomaka (_Maori_) | " | - | | |The New Zealand Wesleyan | " | - | | |The Licensed Victuallers'| | - | | | Gazette | " | - | | | | | - Kaiapoi | 1,083 | 6,284 |The North Canterbury News| Daily | - | | | | | - Rangiora | -- | 2,888 |The North Canterbury News| " | - | | | | | - Akaroa | 642 | 2,232 |The Akaroa Mail | Weekly | - | | | | | - Ashburton | 1,200 | -- |The Ashburton Mail | Daily | - | | |The Evening Herald | " | - | | |The Ashburton Guardian | Weekly | - | | | | | - Te Muka | 200 | -- |Te Muka Herald | " | - | | | | | - Timaru | 3,791 | -- |The Timaru Herald | Daily | - | | |The South Canterbury Times| " | - | | |The Evening Telegraph | " | - | | |The Geraldine Chronicle | Weekly | - | | | | | - Waiemate | -- | 4,269 |The Waiemate Times |Bi-weekly| - | | |The Waietangi Tribune | " | - | | | | | - Dunedin | 23,959 | 34,674 |The Otago Times | Daily | - | | |The Otago Morning Herald | " | - | | |The Otago Guardian | " | - | | |The Otago Evening Tribune| " | - | | |The Otago Evening Star | " | - | | |The Otago Witness | Weekly | - | | |The Otago Southern Mercury| " | - | | |The Christian Record | " | - | | |The Otago Penny Post | " | - | | |The Age | " | - | | |The New Zealand Tablet (R.C.)| " | - | | |The Saturday Advertiser | " | - | | |The New Zealand News | " | - | | |The Illustrated New | | - | | | Zealand Herad | Monthly | - | | |The New Zealand | | - | | | Temperance Herald | " | - | | |The New Zealand Churchman| " | - | | |The New Zealand Presbyterian| " | - | | | | | - Clyde | 312 | -- |The Dunstan Times | Weekly | - | | | | | - Cromwell | 424 | -- |The Cromwell Argus | " | - | | | | | - Gore | 300 | -- |The Mataura Ensign | " | - | | | | | - Invercargill | 4,283 | 6,000 |The Southland Times | Daily | - | | |The Southland News | " | - | | | The Weekly Times | Weekly | - | | | The Weekly News | " | - | | | | | - Lawrence | 855 | 5,400 | The Tuapeka Times |Bi-weekly| - | | | | | - Tapanui | 335 | | The Tapanui Courier | Weekly | - | | | | | - Tokomairiro | 1,161 | | The Bruce Herald |Bi-weekly| - (_Milton_) | | | The Bruce Standard | " | - | | | | | - Naseby | 546 | | The Mount Ida Chronicle | Weekly | - | | | | | - Balclutha | 900 | | The Clutha Mail | " | - | | | | | - Oamaru | 5,098 | | The North Otago Times | Daily | - | | | The Oamaru Evening Mail | " | - | | | The North Otago Weekly | | - | | | Times | Weekly | - | | | The Oamaru Weekly Mail | " | - | | | | | - Palmerston | 825 | | The Shag Valley Herald | " | - | | | The Waikouaiti Times | " | - | | | | | - Arrowtown | 363 | | The Arrow Observer | " | - | | | | | - Queenstown | 574 | 2,266 | The Wakatipu Mail | " | - | | | | | - Riverton | 867 | 4,194 | The Western Star | " | - | | | | | - ---------------+----------------+----------- - |County in which | - Name of Town. | the Town is | Former - | situated. | Province. - --------------+----------------+----------- - Auckland |Eden |Auckland - | | - Coromandel |Coromandel |Auckland - | | - Grahamstown, |Thames |Auckland - _with | | - Shortland_ | | - | | - Gisborne |Cook |Auckland - | | - Kororareka |Bay of Islands |Auckland - (_Russell_) | | - | | - Whangarei |Whangarei |Auckland - | | - Hamilton |Waikato |Auckland - | | - Ngaruawahia |Waipa |Auckland - (_Newcastle_)| | - | | - Tauranga |Tauranga |Auckland - | | - New Plymouth |Taranaki |Taranaki - | | - Wairoa |Wairoa |Hawke's Bay - (_Clyde_) | | - | | - Napier |Hawke's Bay |Hawke's Bay - | | - WELLINGTON |Hutt |Wellington - | | - Greytown |Wairarapa West |Wellington - | | - Carterton |Wairarapa West |Wellington - | | - Masterton |Wairarapa West |Wellington - | | - Palmerston |Manawatu |Wellington - (_North_) | | - | | - Foxton |Manawatu |Wellington - | | - Wanganui |Wanganui |Wellington - | | - Carlyle |Patea |Taranaki - | | - Hawera |Patea |Taranaki - | | - Marton |Rangitikei |Wellington - | | - Nelson |Waimea |Nelson - | | - Westport |Buller |Nelson - | | - Charleston |Buller |Nelson - | | - Reefton |Inangahua |Nelson - | | - Lyell |Buller |Nelson - | | - Blenheim |Marlborough |Marlborough - | | - Kaikoura |Kaikoura |Marlborough - | | - Picton |Sounds |Marlborough - | | - Hokitika |Westland |Westland - | | - Greymouth |Grey |Westland - | | - Ross |Westland |Westland - | | - Lyttelton |Selwyn |Canterbury - | | - Christchurch |Selwyn |Canterbury - | | - Kaiapoi |Ashley |Canterbury - | | - Rangiora |Ashley |Canterbury - | | - Akaroa |Akaroa |Canterbury - | | - Ashburton |Ashburton |Canterbury - | | - Te Muka |Geraldine |Canterbury - | | - Timaru |Geraldine |Canterbury - | | - Waiemate |Waiemate |Canterbury - | | - Dunedin |Taieri |Otago - | | - Clyde |Vincent |Otago - | | - Cromwell |Vincent |Otago - | | - Gore |Southland |Otago - | | - Invercargill |Southland |Otago - | | - Lawrence |Tuapeka |Otago - | | - Tapanui |Tuapeka |Otago - | | - Tokomairiro |Bruce |Otago - (_Milton_) | | - | | - Naseby |Maniatoto |Otago - | | - Balclutha |Clutha |Otago - | | - Oamaru |Waitaki |Otago - | | - Palmerston |Waikouaiti |Otago - | | - Arrowtown |Lake |Otago - | | - Queenstown |Lake |Otago - | | - Riverton |Wallace |Otago - - -I must apologize for any omissions or inaccuracies that may be found -to appear in the above list. The materials were not collected without -considerable trouble, and every care has been taken to ensure fulness. -The figures are derived from returns published according to the census -and estimates of 1879 and 1880. Their incompleteness was unavoidable. - - -POPULATION OF NEW ZEALAND. - - _European._ In 1844 the total European population was 13,128 - " 1851 " " " 26,707 - " 1856 " " " 45,540 - " 1861 " " " 99,021 - " 1866 " " " 204,114 - " 1871 " " " 256,393 - " 1874 " " " 299,684 - " 1879-80 " " " 463,729 - _Maori._ In 1820 the total Maori population was 100,000 (supposed). - " 1874 " " " 46,016 - " 1879-80 " " " 42,819 - -The present total population of all New Zealand, both of Europeans and -Maoris, may be set down at 506,548. - - -POLITICAL DIVISIONS. - -In 1876, the old provincial divisions, with all their cumbrous local -governments and legislative machinery, were finally abolished. -Politically speaking, therefore, the provinces of Auckland, Taranaki, -Hawke's Bay, Wellington, Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury, Otago, and -Westland no longer exist. The names are still retained to some extent -in general use, but they will probably pass away as the new arrangement -takes deeper hold. The colony is now divided into sixty-three counties, -which are here enumerated, together with the three principal cities, -towns, villages, or settlements comprised within each. The arrangement -is from North to South. - - County. Towns or Settlements. - - Mongonui Mongonui, Whangaroa, Ahipara. - Hokianga Hokianga, Whangape, Kaikohe. - Bay of Islands Kororareka, Kawakawa, Waimate. - Whangarei Whangarei, Mangapai, Waipu. - Hobson Tokatoka, Aratapu, Pahi. - Rodney Mangawai, Omaha, Mahurangi. - Waitemata Helensville, Whangaparoa, Riverhead. - Eden AUCKLAND, Onehunga, Otahuhu. - Manukau Waiuku, Papakura, Pukekohe. - Coromandel Port Fitzroy, Kapanga, Tokatea. - Thames Grahamstown, Tairua, Ohinemuri. - Waikato Mercer, Hamilton, Cambridge. - Waipa Ngaruawahia, Te Awamutu, Alexandra. - Raglan Raglan, Port Waikato. - Piako Piako. - Tauranga Tauranga, Maketu, Ohinemutu. - Kawhia Kawhia, Aotea, Kuiti. - West Taupo Orakau, Tokano. - East Taupo Tapuaeharuru, Cox's. - Whakatane Opotiki, Whakatane, Matata. - Cook Gisborne, Ormond, Uawa. - Wairoa Mahia, Clyde, Mohaka. - Hawke's Bay NAPIER, Hastings, Havelock. - Wanganui Wanganui, Makirikiri, Kai Iwi. - Taranaki NEW PLYMOUTH, Oakura, Raleigh. - Patea Carlyle, Hawera, Normanby. - Rangitikei Bulls, Marton, Turakina. - Manawatu Foxton, Palmerston, Fielding. - Waipawa Waipawa, Waipukerau, Wallingford. - Wairarapa East Akiteo, Mataikuna, Whareama. - Wairarapa West Featherston, Greytown, Masterton. - Hutt WELLINGTON, Hutt, Karori. - Collingwood Collingwood, Clifton, Takaka. - Waimea NELSON, Wakefield, Foxhill. - Sounds Picton, Gore, Bulwer. - Marlborough BLENHEIM, Renwick, Tuamarina. - Inangahua Reefton, Howard, Hampden. - Buller Westport, Charleston, Lyell. - Grey Greymouth, Cobden, Ahaura. - Amuri Waiau, Hanmer Bridge, Tarndale. - Kaikoura Kaikoura, Hapuka, Clarence. - Cheviot Cheviot, Hawkswood. - Ashley Kaiapoi, Rangiora, West Oxford. - Akaroa Wairewa, Akaroa. - Selwyn CHRISTCHURCH, Lyttelton, Selwyn. - Westland HOKITIKA, Ross, Kumara. - Ashburton Ashburton, Rangitata, Rakaia. - Geraldine Timaru, Geraldine, Te Muka. - Waiemate Waiemate, Makikihi, Waihoa. - Waitaki Oamaru, Herbert, Moeraki. - Waikouaiti Palmerston, Waikouaiti, Port Chalmers. - Peninsula Calversham, Tairoa. - Taieri DUNEDIN, Outram, Berwick. - Maniatoto Naseby, St. Bathans, Hamilton. - Vincent Clyde, Cromwell, Gladstone. - Lake Queenstown, Arrowtown, Cardrona. - Fiord (No settlement). - Wallace Riverton, Wallace, Howells. - Southland Invercargill, Dacre, Athol. - Tuapeka Lawrence, Tapanui, Roxburgh. - Bruce Milton, Kaitangata, Waihora. - Clutha Balclutha, Clinton, Waipaheu. - Stewart Island Paterson. - - -PRONUNCIATION OF MAORI NAMES. - -The letters of the Maori Alphabet are only fourteen in number. They -are—a, e, h, i, k, m, n, ng, o, p, r, t, u, w. The vowels have an -Italian sound. - - The Maori a is pronounced like aw and ah. - " e " " a and eh. - " i " " ee. - " o " " o and oo (short). - " u " " oo (long). - -When two vowels come together in a syllable, both are pronounced in a -single breath. Thus:— - - The Maori au becomes ow, as in _cow_. - " ao the same. - " ae becomes i, as in _sigh_. - " ai the same. - " ei becomes ee, as in _keep_. - -Ng always has a nasal sound, as in _ringing_. G is never hard. - -In common use among colonists, many names are becoming corrupted, -principally by the shortening of vowel sounds. Thus, Wakatipu, the -proper pronunciation of which should be Waw-kah-tee´-poo, has become -Wacky-tip. The elision of a final vowel in certain instances, is common -among the Maori themselves. - -The following examples, selected from names occurring in this book, may -be of use. Chief stress is to be laid upon the syllable indicated by an -accent mark. - - Arapaoa Ah-rah-pow´-ah - Ararimu Ah-rah-ree´-moo - Aratapu Ah-rah-tah´-poo - Ariki Ah-ree´-kee - Atua Ah´-too-ah - Hauraki How´-rah-kee - Hinau Hee´-now - Hokianga Ho-kee-ang´-ah - Hone Heke Ho´-nay Hek´-ky - Hongi Hika Hong´-ee Hee´-kah - Hoteo Ho-tay´-o - Hue Hoo´-eh - Kahikatea Ki-kah-tay´-ah - Kai Ki - Kainga Ki´-ng-ah - Kaipara Ki´-pah-rah - Kamahi Kah-mi´ - Kapai Kah´-pi - Kapuka Kah´-poo-kah - Kararehe Kah-rah´-ray - Kareao Kah-ray-ow´ - Kauri Kow´-ree - Kawa Kaw´-ah - Kawau Kah-wow´ - Kawiti Kaw´-ee-tee - Keri-keri Kirry-kirry - Kiwi Kee´-wee - Kihi-kihi Kēē-kēē - Kiore Kee-or´-eh - Kopura Ko´-poo-rah - Koraka Ko-rah´-kah - Korero Kor´-ră-ro - Kororareka Kor-or-ar´-ek-ah - Kotuku Ko-too´-koo - Kowhai Ko´-i - Kumera Koo´-meh-rah - Mahurangi Mow´-ă-rang´-ee - Maire Mi´-ray - Manukau Man´-oo-kow - Mangapai Mong´-ah-pi - Mangawai Mong-ah-wi´ - Mangiao Mong-ee-ow´ - Maori Mow´-ree - Matakohe Mah-tah-ko´-eh - Marahemo Mah-rah-hay´-mo - Maungakahia Mong-ah-ki´-ah - Mihake Mee´-hak-ă - Mongonui Mong-o-noo´-ee - Ngapuhi Ng-ah´-poo-ee - Ngatewhatua Ng-ah´-tay-whot´-oo-ah - Ohaeawae O-hi´-ah-wi - Okaehau O-ki´-how - Onehunga O-nay-hung´-ah - Otamatea O-tah-mah-tay´-ah - Oruawharo Or-oo-ah-whah´-ro - Pahi Pah´-hee - Paparoa Pah-pah-ro´-ah - Pakeha Pah´-kay-hah - Pohutukawa Paw´-tah-kow-ah - Ponamu Po-nam´-oo - Puna Poo´-nah - Puriri Poo-ry´-ry - Rakope Raw´-kop-ă - Rangatira Rang-ah-tee´-rah - Rangitopuni Rang-ee-to-poo´-nee - Raupo Row´-poo - Reinga Ray-eeng´-ah - Rimu Ree´-moo - Taheke Tah´-hak-ky - Tamatewhiti Tom'-ah-tay-whee'-tee - Taupo Tow'-poo - Tawhera Taff'-rah - Taua Tow'-ah - Tapu Tah'-poo - Te Tay - Ti Tee - Wahine Wah-hee'-nay - Waimate Wi'-matty - Waitangi Wi'-tang-ee - Waitemata Wi'-tay-mah'-tah - Whangarei Whong-ah-ree' - Whare Whah'-ray - Whau Whow - Wairoa Wi'-raw - Wairau Wi'-row - -THE END. - -PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES. -_S. & H._ - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Other -variations in spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and accents remain -unchanged. - -The extensive table of the New Zealand Press in the appendix has been -divided to facilitate display on narrow screens. - -Italics are represented thus _italic_. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Brighter Britain! (Volume 2 of 2), by -William Delisle Hay - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRIGHTER BRITAIN! 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