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diff --git a/old/50933-8.txt b/old/50933-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 31de869..0000000 --- a/old/50933-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5017 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the Southwest, by -Charles Francis Saunders - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Finding the Worth While in the Southwest - -Author: Charles Francis Saunders - -Release Date: January 15, 2016 [EBook #50933] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - - Finding the Worth While - in the Southwest - - - BY - CHARLES FRANCIS SAUNDERS - Author of "Finding the Worth While in California," - "The Indians of the Terraced Houses," etc. - - - _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_ - - "The Sun goes West, - Why should not I?" - _Old Song._ - - - NEW YORK - ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY - 1918 - - Copyright, 1918, by - Robert M. McBride & Co. - - Published May, 1918 - - TO - M. H. R. - Kinswoman most dear - This little volume is affectionately inscribed. - - - - - PREFACE - - -No part of the United States is so foreign of aspect as our great -Southwest. The broad, lonely plains, the deserts with their mystery and -color, the dry water courses, the long, low mountain chains seemingly -bare of vegetation, the oases of cultivation where the fruits of the -Orient flourish, the brilliant sunshine, the deliciousness of the pure, -dry air--all this suggests Syria or northern Africa or Spain. Added to -this are the remains everywhere of an old, old civilization that once -lived out its life here--it may have been when Nineveh was building or -when Thebes was young. Moreover, there is the contemporary interest of -Indian and Mexican life such as no other part of the country affords. - -In this little volume the author has attempted, in addition to outlining -practical information for the traveler, to hint at this wealth of human -association that gives the crowning touch to the Southwest's charm of -scenery. The records of Spanish explorers and missionaries, the legends -of the aborigines (whose myths and folklore have been studied and -recorded by scholars like Bandelier, Matthews, Hough, Cushing, -Stevenson, Hodge, Lummis, and others) furnish the raw material of a -great native literature. Painters long since discovered the fascination -of our Southwest; writers, as yet, have scarcely awakened to it. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - I Santa Fe, the Royal City of St. Francis's Holy Faith 1 - II The Upper Rio Grande, its Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings 20 - III Roundabout Albuquerque 43 - IV The Dead Cities of the Salines 56 - V Of Acoma, City of the Marvellous Rock; and Laguna 68 - VI To Zuñi, the Center of the Earth, via Gallup 82 - VII El Morro, the Autograph Rock of the Conquistadores 93 - VIII The Storied Land of the Navajo 102 - IX The Homes of the Hopis, Little People of Peace 116 - X The Petrified Forest of Arizona 130 - XI Flagstaff as a Base 137 - XII The Grand Cañon of the Colorado River in Arizona 150 - XIII Montezuma's Castle and Well, Which Montezuma Never Saw 162 - XIV San Antonio 176 - XV In the Country of the Giant Cactus 188 - XVI Southern California 204 - A Postscript on Climate, Ways and Means 222 - Index 227 - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - FACING PAGE - An Acoma Indian Dance 72 - Laguna, the Mother Pueblo of Seven 73 - Bead Maker, Zuñi Pueblo 82 - A Street in Acoma Pueblo 83 - Old Church, Acoma Pueblo 88 - A Sunny Wall in Zuñi 89 - Casa Blanca or White House 116 - El Morro or Inscription Rock, N. M. 117 - In the North Petrified Forest 135 - A Corner in Santa Fe, N. M. 136 - Old Governor's Palace, Santa Fe, N. M. 162 - Montezuma's Castle 163 - San José de Aguayo 184 - San Xavier del Bac, Arizona 185 - - - - - CHAPTER I - SANTA FE--THE ROYAL CITY OF SAINT FRANCIS'S HOLY FAITH - - -Someone--I think it was that picturesque historian of our Southwest, Mr. -Charles F. Lummis--has summed up New Mexico as "sun, silence and adobe;" -and of these three components the one that is apt to strike the Eastern -newcomer most forcibly is adobe. This homely gift of nature--hard as -brick in dry weather, plastic as putty and sticky as glue in wet--is the -bulwark of the New Mexican's well-being. His crops are raised in it; he -fences in his cattle with it; he himself lives in it; for of it are -built those colorless, square, box-like houses, flat-roofed and eaveless -which, on our first arrival in New Mexico, we declared an architectural -abomination, and within a week fell eternally in love with. An adobe -house wall is anywhere from two to five feet thick, a fact that conduces -to coolness in summer, warmth in winter, and economy at all seasons. -Given possession of a bit of ground, you grub up a few square yards of -the earth, mix it with water and wheat chaff, and shovel the mixture -into a wooden mold. You then lift the mold and lo! certain big, brown -bricks upon the ground. These the fiery New Mexican sun bakes hard for -you in a couple of days--bricks that are essentially the same as those -of ancient Babylon and Egypt, and the recipe for which (received by the -Spanish probably from their Moorish conquerors) is one of Spain's most -valued contributions to America. Old Santa Fe was built entirely of this -material, and most of latter day Santa Fe still is, though there is a -growing disposition on the part of the well-to-do to substitute burned -brick and concrete. - -As a rule these adobe dwellings are of one story, and the more -pretentious are constructed partly or entirely about an inner court, -such as in Spain is called a _patio_, but in New Mexico a _plazita_, -that is, a little plaza. A cheerful sanctuary is this _plazita_, where -trees cast dappled shadows and hollyhocks and marigolds bloom along the -sunny walls. Upon it the doors and windows of the various rooms open, -and here the family life centers. By the kitchen door Trinidad prepares -her _frijoles_ and chili, while the children tease her for tidbits; upon -the grass the house rugs and _serapes_ are spread on cleaning days, in -kaleidoscopic array, and beaten within an inch of their lives; here, of -summer evenings Juan lounges and smokes and Juanita swings in the -hammock strumming a guitar, or the family gramophone plays "La -Golondrina." - -Comparisons are always invidious, but if there be among the cities of -the United States, one that is richer in picturesqueness, in genuine -romance, in varied historic, archaeologic and ethnologic interest, than -Santa Fe, it has still I think to make good its claims. The distinction -of being the oldest town in our country, as has sometimes been claimed, -is, however, not Santa Fe's.[1] Indeed, the exact date of its founding -is still subject to some doubt, though the weight of evidence points to -1605. Nor was it even the original white settlement in New Mexico. That -honor belongs to the long since obliterated San Gabriel, the site of -which was on or near the present-day hamlet of Chamita, overlooking the -Rio Grande about 35 miles north of Santa Fe. There in 1598 the conqueror -of New Mexico, Don Juan de Oñate (a rich citizen of Zacatecas, and the -Spanish husband, by the way, of a granddaughter of Montezuma) -established his little capital, maintaining it there until the second -town was founded. To this latter place was given the name _La Villa Real -de Santa Fé de San Francisco de Asís_--the Royal City of Saint Francis -of Assisi's Holy Faith. Naturally that was too large a mouthful for -daily use, and it was long ago pared down to just Santa Fe, though Saint -Francis never lost his status as the city's patron. In point of -antiquity, the most that can justly be claimed for it is that it is the -first permanent white settlement in the West. - -The situation of Santa Fe is captivating, in the midst of a sunny, -breeze-swept plain in the lap of the Southern Rockies, at an elevation -of 7000 feet above the sea. Through the middle of the city flows the -little, tree-bordered Rio de Santa Fé, which issues a couple of miles -away from a gorge in the imposing Sierra Sangre de Cristo (the Mountains -of the Blood of Christ), whose peaks, often snow-clad, look majestically -down in the north from a height of 10,000 to 13,000 feet. The town is -reached from Lamy[2] by a branch of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe -Railway, which climbs due north for 18 miles through an uninhabitated -waste dotted with low-growing piñon, juniper and scrub. At the station a -small army of bus, hack and automobile men greet you with enthusiasm, -and to reach your hotel you have only the choice of them or your own -trotters, for street cars there are none. In Santa Fe, however, no place -is far from any other place--the population is but a scant 8500. Of -these a large percentage is of Spanish blood, and Spanish speech and -Spanish signs engage your attention on every hand. - -The hub of the city is the Plaza--warm and sunny in winter, shady and -cool in summer. Seated here on a bench you soon arrive at a lazy man's -notion of the sort of place you are in. Here the donkeys patter by laden -with firewood--dearest of Santa Fe's street pictures; here Mexican -peddlers of apples and _dulces_, _piñones_ and shoe-strings ply their -mild trade, and Tesuque Indians, with black hair bound about with -scarlet _bandas_, pass by to the trader's, their blankets bulging with -native pottery, or, in season, their wagons loaded with melons, grapes, -apples, and peaches. Of afternoons the newsboys loiter about crying the -papers, and you have a choice of your news in English or Spanish; and on -Sundays and holidays the band plays athletically in its little kiosk, -the crowd promenading around and around the while very much as in Old -Mexico, and strewing the ground behind it with piñon and peanut shells. - -Close to the Plaza, too, cluster many of the historied spots of Santa -Fe; indeed, the Plaza itself is a chief one. On this bit of ground it is -confidently believed that Oñate must have camped in 1605--if it was -1605--when the capital was transferred from San Gabriel; and there is no -doubt whatever that here was the seething center of the famous Pueblo -revolt of 1680, when 3000 infuriated Indians cooped the entire Spanish -population of Santa Fe within the Governor's Palace opposite, and kept -them there for a week. Then the whites made a brave sortie, caught and -hanged 50 Indians in the Plaza and escaped to Old Mexico--their exit -being celebrated shortly afterwards in this same Plaza by the Indians' -making a bonfire of all Spanish archives and church belongings they -could lay hands on. Here 13 years later came De Vargas, the re-conqueror -of New Mexico (bearing it is said the very standard under which Oñate -had marched in the original conquest), and with his soldiers knelt -before the reinstated cross. And it was in this Plaza in 1846, during -our Mexican War, that General Stephen Kearny ran up the Stars and -Stripes and took possession of the territory in the name of the United -States. It was the Plaza, too, that formed the western terminus of the -Old Santa Fe Trail--that famous highway of trade that bound New Mexico -with Anglo-Saxondom throughout the Mexican regime in the Southwest and -until the iron horse and Pullman cars superseded mules and Conestoga -wagons. At the old adobe hotel known as La Fonda, a remnant of which -still stands at this writing just across from the southeast corner of -the Plaza, travelers and teamsters, plainsmen and trappers found during -half a century that boisterous brand of cheer dear to the pioneer -soul--cheer made up quite largely of cards, _aguardiente_ and the -freedom of firearms, but gone now, let us trust, out of the world -forever since the world has lost its frontiers. - -Facing the Plaza on the north is the ancient _Palacio Real_ or -Governor's Palace--a long, one-storied adobe building occupying the -length of the block, and faced with the covered walk or portico (they -call such a _portal_ in New Mexico) which in former years was a feature -of every building of importance in Santa Fe. Within its thick walls for -nearly three centuries the governors of New Mexico resided--Spaniards, -Pueblo Indians, Spaniards again, Mexicans and finally Americans.[3] In -1909 the building was set aside as the home of the Museum of New Mexico -(since removed to a handsome edifice of its own in the New Mexico style -of architecture across the street), and of the School of American -Research.[4] Some careful restoration work was then done, necessary to -remove modern accretions and lay bare certain interesting architectural -features incorporated by the original builders, such as the handwrought -woodwork, the fireplaces, doorways, etc., so that the edifice as it -appears today is outwardly very much as it must have looked a century or -two ago. The festoons of dried Indian ears, however, which are said to -have been a rather constant adornment of the _portal_ in old times, are -now, to the relief of sensitive souls, humanely absent. Within, the -Palace is a mine of information for the curious in the history, -archaeology and ethnology of our Southwest, and a leisurely visit to it -makes a useful preliminary to one's travels about the State. The -building is open to all without charge. - -A short block from the Plaza is the Cathedral of San Francisco, whose -unfinished trunks of towers are a prominent feature in Santa Fe's low -sky-line. You may or may not get something from a visit to it. It is a -modern structure, still incomplete, built upon and about an older church -believed to date from 1622. Beneath the altar reposes all that is mortal -of two seventeenth century Franciscan missionaries to the New Mexico -aborigines. Of one of these, Padre Gerónimo de la Llana, I cannot -forbear a word of mention. He was a true brother of Saint Francis, and -for many years ministered lovingly to the Indians of the long since -ruined pueblo of Quaraí, a place of which more later. At Quaraí he died -in 1659, and his body was interred in the old church there whose walls -still stand, one of the most striking ruins in New Mexico. To his -Indians he was no less than a saint, and when (under attacks from -Apaches, doubtless) they abandoned their pueblos about 1670, they bore -with them what remained of their dear _padre santo_ to Tajique, a pueblo -some 15 miles distant, and buried him there. But in those days Apaches -never ceased from raiding, and from Tajique, too, some years later, -those Pueblo folk were forced to flee--this time across the rugged -Sierra Manzano to Isleta on the Rio Grande. That was a journey of too -great hardship, I suppose, to admit of carrying the now crumbled padre -with them; so he was left in his unmarked tomb in a savage-harried land, -to be quite forgotten until 85 years later (in 1759) pious old Governor -F. A. Marin del Valle heard of him. A search was speedily set on foot -and after a long quest the bones of Padre Gerónimo were found, brought -to Santa Fe, and becomingly once more interred. Then, alas! the poor -brother dropped out of mind again until in 1880, when during some work -upon the new Cathedral, the discovery of an inscription set in the wall -121 years before by Governor del Valle led to the finding of the grave. -I think you will be interested to read the quaint Spanish epitaphs of -this fine old friar, and of his companion, too, Padre Asencio de Zárate, -sometime of Picurís pueblo. They may be found behind the high altar, -which hides them. - -Also in the Cathedral, it is believed, rests the mortality of Don Diego -de Vargas, _el Reconquistador_, but unmarked. You will find many an echo -of him in Santa Fe, for he it was who in 1692 re-conquered New Mexico -for Spain after the Pueblo uprising of 1680 had swept the Spaniards out -of the province and for twelve years kept them out. Every year in June -Santa Fe celebrates its De Vargas Day, when a procession, bearing at its -head an image of the Virgin, marches from the Cathedral to the little -Rosario Chapel that is dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary (or as Santa -Féans sometimes call her, _La Conquistadora_, the Lady Conqueror). It -occupies the spot, on the city outskirts, where according to tradition -De Vargas knelt on the eve of his second entry into the capital -(December 16, 1693), and invoking the blessing of the Virgin upon his -arms, promised her a chapel if she vouchsafed him victory on the morrow. -It is a scant half-hour's stroll thither from the Plaza, and you will -enjoy the walk through the city's half foreign scenes, though the -building itself is disappointing because of its handling by tasteless -renovators. Much more picturesque, though modernized with an astonishing -steeple, is the little church of Guadalupe, standing amid Lombardy -poplars on the south bank of the river. A quiet, reposeful, little -temple, this, with beautifully carved ceiling beams and a curious, if -crude, altar-piece representing the appearances of Mexico's Heavenly -Patroness to Juan Diego. - -Of the churches in Santa Fe, however, the one that is made most of by -visitors, is the square-towered adobe of San Miguel. It is a pleasant -twenty-minute walk from the Plaza (and, by all means, do walk when you -go, for the way thither is too picturesque to be whisked over in an -automobile)--through quiet, unpaved streets lined with one-storied adobe -houses and often too narrow to accommodate any but a mere thread of -sidewalk, where you bump into burros and, like as not, have utter -strangers tip their hats to you with a _buenos dias, señor_. You pass -the Bishop's sequestered gardens and the high-walled grounds of the -Convent and Academy of the Sisters of Loretto, with glimpses through a -postern gate of old-fashioned flower beds; and further on, the touching -little cemetery of the Sisters, each simple grave marked by a cross -whereon vines and fragrant flowers lean lovingly; and so, on stepping -stones, to the south side of the little Rio de Santa Fe. Then mounting -the hill past more gardens where hollyhocks--_la barra de San José_ (St. -Joseph's rod) the New Mexicans call them--nod at you over the walls, and -children prattle in Spanish and women sing at their work, there you are -before old San Miguel. - -Your first feeling is a bit of a shock, for the renovator's hand has -fallen heavily upon San Miguel and, frankly speaking, it is a rather -hideous old church as viewed from the street. When, however, you have -rung the sacristan's bell and a Christian Brother from the adjoining -Catholic college has come with the keys to usher you within, you pass in -a twinkling into the twilight heart of the Seventeenth Century. Here are -blackened, old religious paintings said to have been carried by the -Conquistadores as standards of defense in battle; a wonderful old bell -inscribed with a prayer to St. Joseph and bearing an all but illegible -date that looks surprisingly like 1356, and maybe it is; a charming old -wooden cross-beam supporting the _coro_, or choir gallery, its color -mellowed by time and its surface carved with rude but beautiful flutings -and flourishes by some long-vanished hand of the wilderness; and so -on--all delightfully embellished by the naïve expositions of the kindly -Brother who acts as cicerone. And do not leave without a glimpse through -the side door of the sunny quiet garden close, that lies between the -church and the college building. As to the age of San Miguel, there has -been much misinformation given--claims of its dating from 1543 being -quite groundless. The known fact is that it was established as a chapel -for the Mexican (Tlascalan) Indians who were part of the original Santa -Fe colony. It therefore dates from some time on the hither side of 1605. -In 1680 it suffered partial destruction in the Pueblo uprising, though -its walls survived; and, after some repairs by order of De Vargas, it -was finally restored completely in 1710, by the Spanish governor of that -time, the Marquis de la Peñuela. The record of this fact inscribed in -Spanish upon the main beam of the gallery is still one of the -interesting "bits" in the church. Probably it is safe to call San Miguel -the oldest existing building for Christian worship in the United States. - -If you are in a hurry you may "do" Santa Fe and its immediate environs -in a carriage or an automobile in a couple of days, and departing -secretly think it a rather overrated little old place. To get into the -atmosphere of it, however, you should drop hurry at its gates and make -up your mind to spend at least a week there, and longer if you can. -Lounge in the Plaza and watch the ebb and flow of the city life that -gathers here; drop into the Indian trading stores and get a taste for -aboriginal art. White man's schooling has brought about of late years a -decline in the quality of Indian handicraft, but there is still a lot of -interest in these Santa Fe curio shops--Navajo and Chímayo blankets, -Pueblo pottery, Navajo silver jewelry, Apache baskets, moccasins, -bead-work, quaint tobacco pouches, Spanish and Mexican -things--_serapes_, _mantillas_, rusty daggers, old silver snuff -boxes--and what not. Mount the hill at the city's northern edge, and sit -on the ruined walls of the old _garita_ (where the Mexican customs used -to be levied upon imports by the Santa Fe Trail). There you get a -magnificent bird's-eye view of the city in its mountain fastness, and if -the day be waning you will have a sunset for your benediction, long to -remember. Extend your rambles sometimes to the outskirts for -unadvertised sights--the little ranches with their outdoor threshing -floors of beaten earth where in August you may see the wheat tramped out -by horses, sheep or goats, and winnowed by tossing in the breeze; -_paisanas_ washing their linen on stones by the brookside as in Italy or -Spain; and the gaunt _descansos_ or crosses of rest, marking stopping -places of funerals, and carving in illiterate Spanish scrawled upon the -wood, prayers for the repose of departed souls. If you are fortunate -enough to have a little Spanish, your enjoyment will be enhanced by -stopping at humble doorways for a bit of chat with Juan Bautista the -woodchopper, or Maria Rosalía the laundress. You will be civilly -welcome, if you yourself are civil, and be handed a chair, if there be -one, and will be refreshed to learn something of the essential oneness -and kindliness of the human family whether clothed in white skin or -brown. It is this pervading air of Old Worldliness that makes the -peculiar charm of Santa Fe for the leisurely traveler--its romance and -its history are not altogether hidden away in books, but are an obvious -part of its living present. - -Moreover, Santa Fe is the starting point for numerous interesting -out-of-town trips. These are story for another chapter.[5] - - - - - CHAPTER II - THE UPPER RIO GRANDE, ITS PUEBLOS AND ITS CLIFF DWELLINGS - - -Of course you must make the trip--a half day will suffice for it--from -Santa Fe to Tesuque, a village of the Pueblo Indians 9 miles to the -north, and you should pronounce it _Te-soo'kay_. If your knowledge of -Indians has been limited to the variety seen in Wild West Shows and -historical pictures, you will be surprised at those you find at Tesuque. -This is a quaint adobe village around a spacious plaza upon which an -ancient, whitewashed Catholic church faces. The houses when of more than -one story are built terrace-like, so that the roof of the first story -forms a front yard to the second. Ladders lean against the outer walls, -by which access is gained to the upper rooms. The population of about -150 live very much like their Mexican neighbors, raising by irrigation -crops of corn, beans, peaches, melons, and alfalfa, accepting meanwhile -from the liberal hand of Nature rabbits, _piñones_ and wild plums, and -pasturing sheep and cattle on the communal pueblo lands which Spain -granted them centuries ago and which our Government confirmed to them -upon the acquisition of New Mexico. Their method of town building is not -borrowed from the whites, but is their own; and because the Spanish -Conquistadores of the sixteenth century found the region sprinkled with -such permanent villages, called _pueblos_ in Spanish, they named the -people Pueblo Indians--a term which well characterizes them in -contra-distinction to the nomadic tribes, whose villages moved as the -tribe moved. - -Tesuque is a type of a score or so of pueblos scattered along a line of -some 300 miles in northern New Mexico and Arizona. Formerly the dress of -these Indians was quite distinctive, but association with the whites has -modified its quality of late years, though it still retains some of the -old features--particularly in the case of the women, who are more -disposed than the men to conservatism. Their native costume is a dark -woolen gown belted at the waist and falling a little below the knees, -and a sort of cape of colored muslin fastened about the neck and hanging -down the back. The lower part of the legs is often swathed in a buckskin -extension of the moccasins in which the feet are encased. The hair is -banged low upon the forehead and both women's and men's are clubbed at -the back and bound with red yarn. The native attire of the men is a -loose cotton shirt worn outside short, wide trousers. Instead of a hat a -narrow _banda_ of colored cotton or silk is bound about the hair. - -Each village has its local government--and a very competent sort it -is--of a democratic nature, a governor, as well as a few other -officials, being elected annually by popular vote. Besides these, there -is a permanent council of old men who assist in the direction of -affairs. Most of the Pueblo Indians are nominal adherents to Roman -Catholicism, but have by no means lost hold of their pagan faith. On the -patron saint's day a public fiesta is always held. After mass in the -church, there are native dances and ceremonies, accompanied by feasting -continuing well into the night. November 12, St. James's Day, is the day -celebrated by Tesuque, and visitors are many.[6] - -The Pueblos are as a class industrious, fun-loving, and friendly to -white visitors. They are naturally hospitable and quickly responsive to -any who treat them sympathetically and as fellow human beings. The -lamentable fact that white Americans have too often failed in this -respect, acting towards them as though they were animals in a zoo, is -largely responsible for tales we hear of Indian surliness and ill-will. -Pueblo women are skillful potters, and while Tesuque does not now excel -in this art, one may pick up some interesting souvenirs both in clay and -beadwork. At any rate, you will enjoy seeing these things being made in -the common living-room of the house, while the corn is being ground on -the _metates_ or mealing stones, and the mutton stew simmers on the open -hearth. A knowledge of values first obtained at reputable traders' shops -in Santa Fe, is advisable, however, before negotiating directly with the -Indians, as they are becoming pretty well schooled in the art of -charging "all the traffic will bear." Tesuque produces a specialty in -the shape of certain dreadful little pottery images called "rain gods," -which must not be taken seriously as examples of sound Pueblo art.[7] - -Thirty-three miles north of Santa Fe on the Denver and Rio Grande -Railway is the village of Española, where a plain but comfortable hotel -makes a convenient base for visiting several points of interest in the -upper Rio Grande Valley. A mile to the south is Santa Clara pueblo,[8] -long famous for its beautiful shining black pottery almost Etruscan in -shape. The clay naturally burns red, but a second baking with the fuel -(dried chips of cattle manure), pulverized finely and producing a dense -black smoke, gives the ware its characteristic lustrous black. Seven -miles further down the river but on the other side, is another pueblo, -San Ildefonso, a picturesque village of 125 Indians, near the base of La -Mesa Huérfana. This is a flat-topped mountain of black lava, on whose -summit in 1693, several hundred Pueblos entrenched themselves and for -eight months stubbornly resisted the attempts of the Spanish under De -Vargas to bring them to terms. That was practically the last stand of -Pueblo rebeldom, which thirteen years before had driven every Spaniard -from the land. San Ildefonso has public fiestas on January 23 and -September 6. - -Six miles north of Española and close to the Rio Grande is San Juan -pueblo, with a population of about 400 Indians. Here one is in the very -cradle of the white civilization of the Southwest. At this spot in the -summer of 1598, Don Juan de Oñate--he of the Conquest--arrived with his -little army of Spaniards, his Franciscan missionaries, his colonist -families, a retinue of servants and Mexican Indians, his wagons and -cattle, to found the capital of the newly won "kingdom" later to be -called New Mexico. The courtesy of the Indians there, who temporarily -gave up their own houses to the Spaniards, was so marked that their -pueblo became known as _San Juan de los Caballeros_ (Saint John of the -Gentlemen). Oñate's settlement--of which no vestige now remains--is -believed to have been situated just across the Rio Grande from San Juan, -about where the hamlet and railway station of Chamita now stands. San -Juan pueblo is further distinguished as the birthplace of Popé, the -Indian to whose executive genius is due the success of the Pueblo -Rebellion of 1680. A picturesque figure, that same Popé, of the timber -dramatic heroes are made of. It is said that, while meditating the -rebellion, he journeyed to the enchanted lagoon of Shípapu, the place -where in the dim past the Pueblos had emerged from the underworld and -whither they return at death. There he conferred with the spirits of his -ancestors, who endued him with power to lead his people to victory.[9] -The San Juan women make a good black pottery similar to that of Santa -Clara. On Saint John's Day, June 24, occurs a public fiesta, with -procession and dances, attracting visitors, white and red, from far and -near. - -Having got thus far up the Rio Grande, let nothing deter you from -visiting Taos (they pronounce it _Towss_). By automobile it is about 50 -miles northeast of Española or you can reach it quite expeditiously by -Denver & Rio Grande train to Taos Junction and auto-connection thence -about 30 miles to Taos.[10] Situated in a fertile plain, 7000 feet above -the sea, in the heart of the Southern Rockies, Taos is one of the most -charming places in America. It is in three parts. There is the outlying -hamlet Ranchos de Taos; then the picturesque Mexican town Fernandez de -Taos, famous in recent years for a resident artist colony whose pictures -have put Taos in the world of art; and lastly, there is the pueblo of -Taos. From very early times the pueblo has played an important role in -New Mexican history. It was here the San Juaneño Popé found the readiest -response to his plans of rebellion. Later the location on the confines -of the Great Plains made it an important trading center with the more -northern Indians. The annual summer fair for _cambalache_, or traffic by -barter, held at Taos in the latter part of the eighteenth century, was a -famous event, the Plains tribes bringing skins and furs and Indian -captives to trade for horses, beads and metal implements. The commercial -opportunities combined with the fertility of the soil and an unfailing -water supply led to the founding of Fernandez de Taos by whites. In the -days of Mexican supremacy part of the traffic over the Santa Fe Trail -passed this way and a custom house was here. The ruins of a large adobe -church in the pueblo form a memento of the troublous days of 1847, when -a small rebellion participated in by Mexicans and a few Taos Indians -took place here and the American governor, Bent, was murdered. At -Fernandez de Taos, the famous frontiersman Kit Carson lived for many -years, and here his grave may still be seen. - -Taos pueblo, housing an Indian population of about 500, is the most -northern in New Mexico, and perhaps the most perfect specimen existing -of Pueblo architecture. It consists of two imposing pyramidal house -clusters of 5 to 7 stories--aboriginal apartment houses--and between -them happily flows the little Rio de Taos sparkling out of the Glorieta -Cañon near whose mouth the pueblo stands. The three-mile drive or walk -from Fernandez de Taos is very lovely, with the pueblo's noble -background of mountains before you, their purple and green flanks -wonderfully mottled and dashed in autumn with the gold of the aspen -forests. The men of Taos are a tall, athletic sort, quite different in -appearance from the more southern Pueblos. They wear the hair parted in -the middle and done at the side in two braids which hang in front of the -shoulders. They are much addicted to their blankets; and one often sees -them at work with the blankets fastened about the waist and falling to -the knees like a skirt. In warm weather they sometimes substitute a -muslin sheet for the woolen blanket, and few sights are more striking -than a Taos man thus muffled to his eyebrows in pure white. - -Annually on September 30th occurs the _Fiesta de San Gerónimo de Taos_, -which is one of the most largely attended of all Pueblo functions. -Crowds of Americans, Mexicans and Indians (a sprinkling of Apaches among -Pueblos of several sorts) line the terraced pyramids and make a scene so -brilliant and strange that one wonders that it can be in America. The -evening before, near sundown, there is a beautiful Indian dance in the -plaza of the pueblo, the participants bearing branches of quivering -aspens. With the sunset light upon the orange and yellow of the foliage -as the evening shadows gather, it is an unforgettable sight. Yes, you -must by all means see Taos. There are hotel accommodations at Fernandez -de Taos.[11] - -But Española serves, too, as a base for outings of quite another sort. -One of these is to the remarkable prehistoric cliff village known as the -Puyé in the Santa Clara Cañon, about 10 miles west of Española. Here at -the edge of a pine forest a vast tufa cliff rises, its face marked with -pictographs of unknown antiquity and honeycombed with dwellings of a -vanished people, probably ancestors, of some of the present-day -Pueblos.[12] These cliff chambers are quite small, and their walls bear -still the soot from prehistoric fires. Climbing by an ancient trail to -the summit of the mesa of which the cliff is a side, you come upon the -leveled ruins of what was once a magnificent, terraced community house, -built of tufa blocks and containing hundreds of rooms. Rambling from -room to room, picking up now a bit of broken pottery, now a charred -corn-cob, poking into the ashes of fireplaces where the last embers were -quenched before history in America began, you experience, I hope, a -becoming sense of your youth as a white American. And the view from this -noble tableland--a view those ancient people had every day of their -lives! One wonders had they eyes to see it--the lovely valley of the Rio -Grande, purple chain after chain of mountains on every side, the jagged -peaks of the Sangre de Cristo, the Glorietas, the Jemes, and dim on the -far horizon, the Sierra Blanca in Colorado. - -Also dotting the same plateau (this region by the way, is now called -Pajarito[13] Park) are numerous other prehistoric community houses--the -Otowi (with its curious tent-like rock formations), the Tsánkawi, the -Tchrega--all of absorbing interest to the archaeologic mind, but -offering not much that seems new to the average tourist who has seen the -Puyé. One, however, known as the Tyuonyi in the cañon of the Rito de los -Frijoles[14] should not be missed. It may be reached via Buckman, a -station on the D. & R. G. 12 miles south of Española. Thence it is about -15 miles over all sorts of a road to the brink of Frijoles Cañon. A -steep foot-trail there leads you down, a thousand feet or more, into the -gorge and after a short walk you are at the comfortable ranch house of -Judge A. G. Abbott, custodian of the Bandelier National Monument, under -which name the neighboring ruins are officially designated by the United -States Government, which owns them.[15] Considered merely as scenery, -the little, secluded cañon is one of the loveliest spots in New Mexico, -with its stretches of emerald meadows, its perennial stream and its -peaceful forest of stately pines. But it is the human interest given by -the vacant houses of a forgotten race--the cavate dwellings of the pink -and white tufa cliffs and the ruined communal dwellings on the cañon -floor and on the mesa top near by--that brings most visitors. That noted -ethnologist, the late Adolf F. Bandelier, wrote a romance with the scene -laid here and at the Puyé. It is entitled "The Delightmakers," and a -reading of it will not only lend a living interest to these places, but -yield a world of information as to the mind and customs of the Pueblo -Indians. Visitors have the School of American Archaeology at Santa Fe to -thank for the painstaking work of excavation extending over years, that -uncovered many of these ancient dwelling places of their centuries of -accumulated debris. - -To return to Española. Ten miles to the eastward in the valley of the -Santa Cruz river is the quaint little church of Santuario, a sort of New -Mexican Lourdes, famous these many years for its miraculous cures. A -trip thither makes a noteworthy day's outing. It may be done by -automobile over a road of many tribulations, but a horse and buggy are -more satisfactory and far more in keeping with the primitive country. My -own visit was achieved on foot, eased by a lift of a couple of miles -from a kindly Mexican on horseback, who set me up behind him, _en -ancas_, as they call it. It was mid-August--a season which in northern -New Mexico is as sunshiny and showery as a sublimated Eastern April. The -intense blue of the sky was blotted here and there with piled-up cloud -masses, which broke at times in streamers of rain upon the purple ranges -of the Sangre de Cristo ahead of me--and after that, descending shafts -of light. As soon as I had crossed the Rio Grande and Española was -behind me, I was in pure Mexico. The Santa Cruz Valley is an -agricultural region, but it is the agriculture of centuries ago that is -in vogue there. Wheat, for instance, is trodden out by horses, sheep or -goats, on outdoor threshing floors of beaten earth, winnowed by tossing -shovelfuls into the air, washed of its grit and dirt in the nearest -_acéquia_, then spread out in the sun to dry, and finally ground in -primitive little log mills whose rumbling stones are turned by tiny -water wheels. Little New Mexican Davids, bare of foot and dreamy-eyed, -loiter along behind their nibbling flocks in the stubble of the shorn -fields or the wild herbage of the river bottom. Peaches and melons, -onions and corn, lie drying on the roofs, and strips of meat hang -"jerking" from stretched lines in the _plazitas_ of the houses. The -cross is still a dominant feature in this land of yesterday. Now it -glitters on the belfry of the family chapel among the trees of some -ranch; now it is outlined against the sky on the crest of a hill, a -_calvario_ of the Penitentes;[16] now it crowns a heap of stones by the -wayside, where a funeral has stopped to rest. - -Of the villages strewn along this delightful way, some are hamlets of -half a dozen straggling little adobes drowsing under their rustling -cottonwoods. Others are more important. One particularly I -remember--Santo Niño. That means "village of the Holy Child," and His -peace that placid morning seemed to rest upon it. The streets were -narrow shady lanes, where irrigation ditches running full made a -murmuring music, flowing now by adobe walls, now by picket fences where -hollyhocks and marigolds and morning-glories looked pleasantly out. It -was a village not of houses merely, but of comfortable old orchards, -too, and riotous gardens where corn and beans, chilis and melons locked -elbows in happy comradery. I think every one I met was Mexican--the -women in sombre black rebosos, the men more or less unkempt and -bandit-appearing in ample-crowned sombreros, yet almost without -exception offering me the courtesy of a raised hand and a _buenos dias, -señor_. Santa Cruz de la Cañada--another of these villages--deserves a -special word of mention, for next to Santa Fe it is the oldest -officially established _villa_ (a form of Spanish organized town), in -New Mexico, dating as such from 1695, though in its unincorporated state -antedating the Pueblo Rebellion. Long a place of importance, its ancient -glory paled as Santa Fe and Albuquerque grew. Today it numbers a scant -couple of hundred inhabitants, but it is interesting to the tourist for -its fine old church facing the grassy plaza of the village. The church -interior is enriched with a number of ancient pictures and carvings of -an excellence beyond one's expectations. - -Then there is Chímayo, into which you pass just before crossing the -river to Santuario. To the general public Chímayo appeals because of its -blankets and its apricots, but to me it remains a place of tender memory -because of a certain hospitable _tienda de abarrotes_ (or, as we should -say, grocery store). Entering it in the hope of finding crackers and -cheese, wherewith to make a wayside luncheon, I was given instead a -characteristic Mexican meal as exquisitely cooked as ever I had; yet it -was but a couple of corn tortillas, a bowl of pink beans done to -liquidity, and a cup of black coffee. As to the blankets of Chímayo, -they are woven in sizes from a pillow-cover to a bed-spread, of -Germantown yarn, and you find them on sale everywhere in the curio shops -of the Southwest, competing in a modest way with the Navajo product. The -weaving is a fireside industry, prosecuted in the intervals of other -work both by women and men, and the bump-bump of the primitive looms is -the characteristic melody of the place. - -I had to ford the little river, shoes and stockings in hand, to reach -Santuario, and was not sure when I got there. An old _paisano_, sitting -in the shade of a wall, informed me, however, that the little cluster of -adobes on a hillside, into which I soon came from the river, was really -the place--"of great fame, señor. Here come people of all nations to be -cured--Mexicans, Americans, Apaches--from far, very far." The adobe -church, half hidden behind some huge cottonwoods, was open--of crude -construction without and within, but very picturesque. Passing within -the wooden doors, which are curiously carved with a maze of lettering -that I found it impossible to decipher, I was in a twilight faintly -illumined by the shining of many candles set upon the floor in front of -a gaudy altar. Upon the walls hung beskirted figures of saints in -various colors and wearing tin crowns. There were, too, crude little -shrines upon which pilgrims had scrawled their names. A figure of San -Diego on horseback with a quirt on his wrist, cowboy style, was -particularly lively, I thought. In a room adjoining the altar is a hole -from which pilgrims take handfuls of earth--red adobe, apparently--the -outward instrumentality that is depended upon for the cures. - -The history of this queer chapel is interesting. Long before it was -built the efficacy of that hole of earth was believed far and wide, and -the place resorted to by health seekers. Finally in 1816 a pious -_paisano_ named Bernardo Abeyta, who had prospered greatly in his -affairs, was impelled to erect this church as a testimony of gratitude -to God. Dying he bequeathed it to Doña Carmen Chaves, his daughter, who -kept for all comers the church and its pit of healing, and lived in a -modest way upon the fees which grateful pilgrims bestowed upon her. -After her death, the property descended to her daughter, who maintains -it in the same way. It is said the fame of the spot is known even in old -Mexico, whence pilgrims sometimes come.[17] The earth is utilized either -internally dissolved in water, or outwardly made into a mud wash and -rubbed on the body. The chapel is dedicated to _El Señor de -Esquipulas_--the Christ of Esquipulas--Esquipulas being a little village -of Guatemala whose great church enshrines a famous image of the Lord -believed to perform miraculous cures. - -For a glimpse in small compass of the unsuspected picturesqueness of -rural New Mexico, I know of nothing better than this little jaunt from -Española to Santuario. - - NOTE: Horseback tours through the Pecos and Santa Fe National Forests - are practicabilities, with Santa Fe, Española or Buckman as a base. - There is a company or two at Santa Fe that make a specialty of - outfitting parties, furnishing riding and pack animals, cooks and all - needful accessories, for a fixed sum. Trout fishing is good in many of - the mountain streams. You may arrange your own itinerary, or if you do - not know what you want, trips will be outlined to suit your particular - interests. In the latter event, a consultation with the Supervisor of - the Santa Fe National Forest, whose office is in Santa Fe, would be - helpful. For people of sound wind who like to see the world from - mountain tops, a trip over the Dalton Trail to the Pecos River and - thence to the Truchas Peaks is repaying. From that elevation of about - 13,000 feet, there is a magnificent outlook over much of New Mexico - and some of Colorado and Arizona. - - - - - CHAPTER III - ROUNDABOUT ALBUQUERQUE - - -Albuquerque is the metropolis and trade heart of central New Mexico, and -the talk of its solid citizens runs naturally on cattle and wool, mines -and lumber, grapes and apples and the agricultural glories of the Rio -Grande valley. The average tourist gives it only the half-hour during -which the train stops there, and remembers it mainly for the noteworthy -Harvey Indian collection at the station (a liberal education, by the -way, in the handicraft of the Southwestern aborigines) and for the -snap-shots he tried to take (and was foiled in) of the picturesque -Pueblo pottery sellers on the platform.[18] In itself, indeed, the busy -little city has not a great deal that is distinctive enough to interest -tourists excepting the Spanish quarter known as Old Albuquerque, on the -outskirts--a picturesque survival of the Hispanic regime. There stands -the old church dedicated to the city's patron saint, San Felipe. As a -base to visit certain other places, however, Albuquerque is very -convenient. For instance, there is the pueblo of Isleta, 12 miles south. - -It is from Isleta that many of the pottery makers come whom you see -offering their wares on the railway platform at Albuquerque, and a -pleasant day may be put in rambling about the streets of the pueblo, -chatting and trafficking with the hospitable people, who are a very -wide-awake, independent sort of Indians. You may go thither by train; or -you may drive (a much better way), following the west bank of the Rio -Grande, and enjoying the beauty of a typical bit of rural New Mexico, -now austere and sun-scorched, now relenting in vineyards, fields of corn -and lush alfalfa, and orchards of apple and peach, sandwiched between -sleepy little Mexican villages smothered in trees and old-fashioned -flowers. Much of New Mexico is as foreign in aspect as Spain, and the -flat-roofed, eaveless ranch houses, low and rambling, with enclosed -plazitas, and high-walled corrals adjoining, into which the teams are -driven at night and the gates shut to the outer world, bring to you the -atmosphere of Don Quixote or Lazarillo de Tormes. Architecturally, -Isleta differs widely from the orthodox pueblo type, its houses being -usually of one story and extended over a liberal area, as must needs be -to shelter its thousand or so of people. They are quite up-to-date -farmers, these Isleteños, and the pueblo is as busy at harvest time as a -beehive, what with fruit drying, corn husking, and alfalfa baling.[19] -Their homes are generally neatly kept, often adorned within with -bright-colored blankets, pretty water ollas, and the whitewashed walls -hung with pictures of Virgin and saints--impressing you as homes of a -thrifty and well-doing race. Indeed these people are reputed the richest -of all the Pueblos. It is, I believe, a matter of record that in 1862, -when a detachment of the United States army was stranded penniless in -New Mexico, an Isleta Indian loaned it $18,000 cash, simply taking the -commander's receipt as evidence. After waiting patiently for twelve -years for the government to have the politeness to return the money -without being asked for it, and hearing nothing, he and the governor of -Isleta, accompanied by the local United States Indian agent, made a trip -to Washington to see about it. Through the personal interest of -President Grant, the money was at last returned. - -On August 28, St. Augustine's Day, occurs the annual public fiesta, with -the usual open air Indian dances after mass in the church. The large -circular _estufa_, or native ceremonial chamber, entered by a ladder let -down through an opening in the roof, is a conspicuous feature of the -pueblo. You will find such places, in one form or another, in all the -Pueblo villages, and in the Cliff Dwellers' towns. They were originally -used as the sleeping apartments of the men. Nowadays the men sleep at -home, but the _estufas_ are still resorted to by them as a sort of -club-room or lounge when religious ceremonies are not going on inside. -Despite membership in the Roman Catholic Church the average Pueblo's -main hold on the unseen that is eternal is through his primitive pagan -faith, whose rites he still practices. Entrance to the _estufas_ is not, -as a rule, readily granted to white people, and should never be -undertaken without permission first obtained. As a matter of fact, there -is on ordinary occasions nothing to see but a dimly lighted chamber with -bare floor and walls, and a small, boxed-in fire-pit near the base of -the ladder. - -To the big old adobe church of Saint Augustine in the center of the -pueblo, there attaches a queer legend sure to delight the traveler whose -interest is less in historical verities than in the fanciful flights of -the human mind. I refer to the tradition of the Rising of Padre -Padilla's Coffin. Among the Franciscan friars who accompanied Coronado -on his famous march to what he called Quivira--the country of the -Wichita Indians in Kansas--was Padre Juan de Padilla. This intrepid -servant of God (when Coronado turned homeward), remained with two lay -brothers on the Kansas plains with the view of Christianizing those -Indians. The outcome of the matter was that he was killed by them on -November 30, 1544. Now tradition has it that somehow in the heavenly -ordering, the body of the martyred padre got miraculously transferred -from Kansas to a place under the church altar at Isleta; and it is -firmly believed (and the belief is backed up by the circumstantial -testimony of solid citizens) that periodically the coffin, which is a -section of a hollowed cottonwood trunk, rises plainly to view in the -church, disclosing to whomsoever may then be present, the padre rather -mummified but still in his black whiskers. To prove it there are people -who will show you bits of his gown nipped off surreptitiously by -eye-witnesses and preserved as precious amulets.[20] - -Northward from Albuquerque for 40 miles, the beautiful valley of the Rio -Grande contains much of appeal to the student of history and of Indian -life. That is the region called in the chronicle of Coronado's -expedition, the Province of Tigüex (pronounced _tee-wesh_); and here -that doughty conquistador spent his first New Mexican winter (1540-41) -at a pueblo now vanished, in the neighborhood, it is believed, of the -picturesque town of Bernalillo[21] 17 miles north of Albuquerque. It was -a winter so marked with wanton deeds of deviltry by the soldiery towards -the peaceably disposed natives, that the whole region was soon seething -in revolt--but helpless revolt because of the guns and horses of those -profligate swashbucklers, who disgraced the Christianity they professed. - -Several pueblos are still extant in that stretch. There is Sandia, a -moribund little place 10 miles from Albuquerque, and within walking -distance of Alameda Station on the railway, but hardly worth the trip. -North of Bernalillo a couple of miles is a summer pueblo, Ranchitos de -Santa Ana (the little farms of Santa Ana), occupied during the growing -season by Indians whose home pueblo, Santa Ana, is a dozen miles to the -northwest in a virtual desert overlooking the saline flats of the Jemes -River. Thither they go to dwell in winter and eat up the crops raised in -summer beside the great river. In the same direction 13 miles beyond -Santa Ana (25 from Bernalillo) is the important pueblo of the Jemes -(_Hay'-mes_) Indians, about 500 in number.[22] The village is -beautifully situated at the mouth of San Diego Cañon. Its public fiesta -is held on St. James's Day, November 12, and is much attended by -Americans, Mexicans, Pueblos, Navajos and Apaches. The region nearby is -sprinkled with ruins of old pueblos which are the subject of -considerable literature of the antiquarian sort. A capital and reliable -popular article on the Jemes Indians by Mr. A. B. Reagan, appeared in -the April, 1917, issue of "El Palacio," the journal of the -Archaeological Society of New Mexico. A few miles before reaching Jemes -the traveler passes the once powerful, but now small pueblo of Sia -(_See-a_), with a population of barely 100. Its decline is attributed in -part to remorseless inter-killing on suspicion of witchcraft, a sort of -superstition that the Pueblos, unlike ourselves, have not yet outgrown. -Its festival is on August 15, the Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady, -and is attended by many visiting Indians, especially Navajos, who give -it a special tinge of picturesqueness. From Albuquerque Jemes may be -reached directly by auto-mail stage which passes the pueblo and then -proceeds 13 miles further to Jemes Springs postoffice in San Diego -Cañon. Near this place are some medicinal springs of local repute--iron, -soda and sulphur--and a modest hotel of the country sort. The stage -leaves Albuquerque daily except Sunday, and if you do not mind a bit of -roughing it, the trip (about 50 miles to Jemes pueblo) will be an -experience to talk about. - -Continuing up the Rio Grande from Bernalillo, you next come (10 miles -from Bernalillo, or 3 from Algodones Station on the Santa Fe) to the -pueblo of San Felipe at the foot of a long, black, treeless mesa on the -west bank of the river. Its fine, white Mission church, dating back some -200 years, is a prominent sight from the car windows of Santa Fe trains. -The ruins of a previous church and pueblo of the San Felipeños are -visible on the summit of the mesa, and a climb to them will reward you, -at least with a fine view of the Rio Grande valley. San Felipe's -principal public fiesta is held May 1. - -Another dozen miles up the river--but now on the east side--is the -pueblo of Santo Domingo, whose 800 Indians are about the most -set-in-their-ways of any in New Mexico. This conservatism serves, -however, to make their Green Corn Dance (held on August 4, the feast day -of their patron Saint Dominic), of especial worth, because the ceremony -has been comparatively little debased by the hybrid innovations which -are spoiling many of the native rites of the Pueblos. There are some -preliminary ceremonies the afternoon before, which it is interesting to -view. The pueblo is easily reached, as it is but a couple of miles from -Domingo station on the Santa Fe railway. The visitor is forewarned that -there is a particularly strong objection at Santo Domingo to -picture-taking and cameras are blacklisted. Even artists of the brush -have been ejected from the village. In passing, it should be stated that -the dances of the Pueblos are not jollifications as among white people, -but religious ceremonials--expressions of thanksgiving to their supernal -protectors for blessings received and prayers for favors to come, as -rain and bountiful crops. Santo Domingo is famous for its beautiful -pottery--a heavy ware, but remarkable for an almost Greek grace of form, -adorned with geometric designs in black on pink or creamy white. - -Still ascending the Rio Grande, you reach (by a pleasant drive of 10 -miles from Domingo Station) the pueblo of Cochití (_co-chee-teé_), where -the ethnologist Bandelier once lived for a time, and studied the race he -came to know so well. It has more the appearance of a Mexican village -than of an Indian pueblo, for the houses are generally of one story and -detached one from another. The people, too (there are about 250), seem -more or less Mexicanized, but are hospitable and good-natured. The local -tradition is that it was the ancestors of the Cochiteños who occupied -the cliff dwellings of the Rito de los Frijoles. One who is robust -enough for horseback tours may secure a guide at Cochití and ascend to -that wild and beautiful region by immemorial trails through a rugged -mountain country dotted with ruins of several former homes and shrines -of the Cochití people, who in prehistoric times seem to have been -confirmed wanderers. The principal public fiesta at this pueblo occurs -on July 14, Saint Bonaventure's Day, and is well worth attending, though -I know of no especial features distinguishing it. Pottery is made here, -too--some of it of a queer type running to animal forms, corpulent and -impossible. Both Cochití and Santo Domingo may be readily visited in one -day, if arrangements are made in advance through the Santa Fe agent at -Domingo. They are equally easy of access from Santa Fe and Albuquerque. - - - - - CHAPTER IV - THE DEAD CITIES OF THE SALINES - - -Southeasterly from Albuquerque some 20 miles the Manzano Mountains lift -their piny crests and drift southward to the Gallinas. From their feet -eastward stretches the wide treeless Estancia Valley, and in the lap of -it lies a noteworthy cluster of saline ponds and lagoons, whose bitter -waters, shining in the blistering sun, are a mockery to the thirsty. -These are "the accursed lakes"[23] of Pueblo tradition--originally fresh -and abounding in fish, they say, but now lifeless and undrinkable, -cursed of the ancient gods because of the sinfulness of a witch who -dwelt there once. If you would know how this change came about, you -should read the tale called "The Accursed Lake" in Mr. Charles F. -Lummis's delightful book "Pueblo Indian Folk Stories." These lakes are -all heavily alkaline except one and that is saline--a source of salt -from time immemorial to the Indians of the pueblos. Coming from near and -far, they would plant their prayer plumes by its white margin and -sprinkle its waves with sacred meal in recognition of the divine -largesse they were about to receive. For the Indian tradition is that -this lake was the abode of a divinity whom they called Salt Old Woman or -Salt Mother, and the salt was her free gift to men. She is -circumstantially described as wearing white boots and a white cotton -dress, and carrying in her hand a white abalone shell, which was so soft -and pliable that she could fold it like a handkerchief.[24] It is said -the salt of this lake has found its way through barter to Parral in Old -Mexico. - -To the tourist the attraction in the Estancia Valley is the presence of -some quaint old plaza villages dating from the days of the Spanish -occupation, and certain imposing ruins of Franciscan Mission churches of -seventeenth century construction standing in the midst of crumbled -Pueblo towns. These are not in the open valley but in the foothills of -the Manzanos and the Gallinas, and are easily visited from Mountainair, -an American town on the "Belén Cut-off" of the Santa Fe Railway. Here is -a small hotel, and automobiles may be hired. - -The most famous of the ruins is the Gran Quivira at the edge of the -Gallinas foothills, 24 miles south of Mountainair. They are the remains -of a large pueblo of low, stone houses, covering altogether about 80 -acres and once housing perhaps a couple of thousand souls. There are the -ruins of several _estufas_, of irrigation works, and of two Christian -churches. The pueblo occupies the narrow crest of a ridge overlooking a -vast, lonely, cedar- and piñon-dotted plain that reaches to far-off, -dreamy mountain ranges. It is in a solitude of solitudes wrapped in the -silence of death, and as almost everywhere in the plateau region of -northern New Mexico and Arizona, one has the feeling of being alone on -the roof of the world, though the elevation here is really but 6800 -feet. The most conspicuous feature of this shattered town is the larger -of the two churches whose gaunt, gray, roofless walls of flat limestone -pieces laid in mortar and rising to a height of 30 feet, are visible to -the traveler long before he reaches the place. Seen "from the northeast, -through vistas of cedars and junipers," to quote Bandelier, "the ruins -shine in pallid light like some phantom city of the desert." Adjoining -the church, are the ruins of a _convento_ of several small rooms and a -refectory, built about an interior courtyard. The whole has an -unfinished appearance, and Bandelier believed that work on the building -was suddenly interrupted and never resumed. - -Indeed, the whole place is shrouded in mystery--its beginning and its -end are alike in the twilight. No record has been left by the old -chroniclers of any mission called Gran Quivira; but there is frequent -mention by them of Tabirá, whose location fairly corresponds to this. -That was a town of the Piro Pueblos, where an important Mission was -established about 1630 by Padre Francisco de Acevedo. It ceased to be -heard of after half a century, and it is believed that repeated raids of -the barbarous Apaches--the red terror of the peacable Pueblos--caused -the abandonment of the village. In all human probability that Tabirá is -this Gran Quivira, but how the latter name became attached to these -ruins has never been satisfactorily explained; for, as has already been -stated, Quivira was Coronado's name for the country of the Wichitas, far -away in Kansas. The Piro people, who are believed to have inhabitated -this pueblo (and that of Abó, of which something shortly), are about as -extinct as their towns. Only an insignificant remnant, and these -speaking an alien tongue, exist today, in the Mexican State of -Chihuahua. - -The hill which the Gran Quivira ruins occupy is of limestone, and -underlaid, as limestone hills often are, with hollownesses that give -back in places an audible echo to one's footfalls. Popular fancy has -been caught by these givings-off of the underworld, and all sorts of -fables have attached themselves to this desolate place. These have -mostly to do with buried treasure. It has been thought, for instance, -that here in the caverns of this hill is really the store of gold and -jewels, the hope of which, like a will-of-the-wisp, lured Coronado on -and ever on, to disappointment and a broken heart. Another tradition -(quoted by Mr. Paul A. F. Walter, in "The Cities That Died of Fear"[25]) -tells of a hidden cave in the hill where the last Piros are said to have -retreated with their belongings, including vast treasure brought from -Mexico by the Franciscan Fathers,[26] and that an earthquake sealed them -and their treasure up together. Of course, such stories have brought -hither innumerable treasure seekers, who for years have gophered the -hill industriously but have got nothing but sore muscles, arrowheads, -and broken pottery. The most picturesque of these delvers was a blind -woman, a Mrs. Clara Corbyn, who acquired homestead rights on the north -end of Gran Quivira. Lacking the wherewithal to finance excavations, she -traveled the country over from the Pacific to the Atlantic, endeavoring -to procure money backing for her scheme, and to that end even wrote a -musical romance, which she called "La Gran Quivira." Failing, she died -not long ago in Los Angeles--of a broken heart, it is said--and the -Museum of New Mexico eventually secured her homestead interest.[27] The -major portion of these ruins belongs to the United States, forming the -Gran Quivira National Monument. - -Abó, that other dead pueblo of the Piros, is about 12 miles southwest of -Mountainair, or 4 miles west of Abó station on the Santa Fe Railway. -Gran Quivira you see on its hilltop for miles before you reach it, but -of Abó your first view comes with the shock of an unexpected delight. -Your car climbs a hill through a bit of wooded wilderness, and, the -crest attained, there flashes on your sight from below, an exquisite -little sunlit valley. In the midst of it is a hillock, and on and about -this is scattered the desolated, roofless pueblo with its noble church, -ruined too, of San Gregorio de Abó. A thread of living water--the Arroyo -de Abó--cuts its way through the valley which is bounded on the west by -the lovely chain of the Manzanos. Unfortunately, the ruin of the old -church still goes on--the decay hastened, I believe, by the fact that -latter-day settlers have borne off much of its stone and timber for -their private use. As it now stands, the high, jagged walls of the -building resemble as much as anything a gigantic broken tooth, and -standing in this solitary place are picturesque to a degree. The -material is red sandstone and the edifice dates from about 1630--the -founder being the same Padre de Acevedo that is credited with -establishing Gran Quivira. He died here at Abó, and was buried in the -church on August 1, 1644. This pueblo, like Gran Quivira, is believed to -have been abandoned because of Apache raids, and was extinct before the -great rebellion of 1680.[28] - -A few miles from the old pueblo, and close to the railway line there are -some low cliffs, forming one side of a gorge once called _El Cañon de la -Pintada_, or the Painted Rocks of Abó Cañon. This spot is a sort of -aboriginal picture gallery worth a visit by the curious in such matters. -The sheltered places on the cliff-face are adorned for a considerable -distance with drawings of evident antiquity in various colors--yellow, -green, red, white. They are mostly representative of human figures, one -or two apparently of the clowns who play prankish parts in many of the -present-day Pueblo ceremonies. Others are symbols that still survive in -the religious rites of the Pueblos. - -Eight miles northwest of Mountainair (and a little more due north of -Abó) is Quaraí, another forsaken pueblo, the ruins of whose fine old -Mission church may be seen a mile away. My own first view of it was -dramatic enough, the red, sandstone walls 20 feet high or more, gaunt -and jagged, silhouetted sharply against a sky black with storm clouds -whence rain banners wavered downward, and athwart them now and then -forked lightnings shot and spit. Quaraí was a walled town, and some -excavation work, done recently by the Santa Fe archaeologists, has -brought to light among other things the remains of a round community -building resembling the Tyuonyi in the Cañon Rito de los Frijoles.[29] -Close at hand is a cottonwood grove refreshed by an abundant spring, a -favorite picnic ground for the country folk roundabout. Other ruins in -the vicinity and signs of ancient fields here and there indicate that -Quaraí was a place of importance in its day, and doubtless for a long -time before the Spanish occupation. Its church is believed to have been -built about 1628 and was dedicated to La Inmaculada Concepcion. This was -the Mission of that Padre de la Llana whose remains, after much travel, -are now at rest beneath the altar in the Cathedral at Santa Fe. - -About 7 miles northward from Quaraí, nestling at the foot of Manzano -Peak,[30] is an excellent example of the old-fashioned plaza village, -called Manzano, which is Spanish for apple tree. The reason for the name -is the presence there of a couple of ancient apple orchards, which are -believed to date back to the time of the Franciscan Missions, and -doubtless were set out by the Fathers of Quaraí, some 250 years ago. The -village is of the typical adobe architecture of New Mexico, and though -not so old as it looks, having been settled about 1825, it is very -foreign of aspect. With its plaza, its old-fashioned flowers in the -gardens, its houses massed one above another on the side of a hill that -is topped by a great wooden cross, its murmurous _acéquia_, and its fine -old Spanish _torreon_ or tower of defense, Manzano holds features of -picturesqueness enough to be worth a trip in itself. A unique feature of -the place is the Manzano Lake which occupies a depression in the midst -of the village--a charming sheet of water, beautiful and fragrant in -season with water lilies. The source of the Lake is a magnificent spring -hardby. To reach it, one climbs the hillside a quarter-mile or so, and -then descends into a shaded hollow, where the cool water gushes up into -a colossal bowl, and brimming over quickly sinks into the ground to -re-appear below and form the village lake. The spring is locally known -as _El Ojo del Gigante_--the Giant's Eye--and is famed throughout the -State as a very marvel among springs. - -If one have time and inclination, the Estancia Valley, its lakes and -ruins and Mexican villages may be made the objective of a trip by -automobile from Santa Fe or Albuquerque. The roads in good weather are -fair, as unimproved roads go, and in the mountain part pass through a -wooded region of much loveliness--sunny park-like forests of pine and -oak, with numerous rivulets and charming wild gardens. From Albuquerque -to Mountainair by this route is about 75 miles. - - - - - CHAPTER V - OF ACOMA, CITY OF THE MARVELLOUS ROCK, AND LAGUNA - - -The oldest occupied town in the United States, and in point of situation -perhaps the most poetic, is Acoma (_ah'co-ma_), occupying the flat -summit of a huge rock mass whose perpendicular sides rise 350 feet out -of a solitary New Mexican plain.[31] It is situated 15 miles southwest -of the Santa Fe Railway station of Laguna, where modest accommodations -are provided for travelers who stop over. The inhabitants of Acoma, -numbering about 700, are Pueblo Indians, whose ancestors founded this -rockborne town before the white history of the Southwest began. Coronado -found it here in 1540. _El Peñol Maravilloso_--the Rock Marvellous--the -old chroniclers called it. "A city the strangest and strongest," says -Padre Benavides, writing of it in 1630, "that there can be in the -world." - -They will take you from Laguna to Acoma in an automobile over a road, -little better than a trail, whose traversability depends more or less on -weather conditions not only that day, but the day before.[32] It winds -through a characteristic bit of central New Mexico landscape, breezy, -sunlit and long-vistaed, treeless save for scattering piñon and juniper. -Wild flowers bespangle the ground in season; and mountains--red, purple, -amethystine, weather-worn into a hundred fantastic shapes--rise to view -on every hand. In July and August the afternoon sky customarily becomes -massed with cloud clusters, and local showers descend in long, wavering -bands of darkness--here one, there another. Traveling yourself in -sunshine beneath an island of clear turquoise in such a stormy sky, you -may count at one time eight or ten of these picturesque streamers of -rain on the horizon circle. Jagged lightnings play in one quarter of the -heavens while broken rainbows illumine others. Nowhere else in our -country is the sky so very much alive as in New Mexico and Arizona in -summer. Nowhere else, I think, as in this land of fantastic rock forms, -of deep blue skies, and of wide, golden, sunlit plains, do you feel so -much like an enchanted traveler in a Maxfield Parrish picture. - -Though the cliffs of Acoma are visible for several miles before you -reach the Rock, you are almost at its base before you distinguish any -sign of the village--the color of its terraced houses being much the -same as that of the mesa upon which they are set. The soft rocky faces -have been cut into grotesque shapes by the sand of the plain which the -winds of ages have been picking up and hurling against them. There are -strange helmeted columns, slender minarets and spires that some day -perhaps a tempest will snap in two, dark, cool caverns which your fancy -pictures as dens of those ogreish divinities you have read of Indians' -believing in. - -Your first adventure at Acoma--and it is a joyous one--is climbing the -Rock to the village on top. There are several trails. One is broad and -easy, whereby the Pueblo flocks come up from the plains to be folded for -the night, and men ahorseback travel. Shorter is the one your Indian -guide will take you, by a gradual sandy ascent, to the base of the -cliff. There you are face to face with a crevice up which you ascend by -an all but perpendicular aboriginal stairway of stone blocks and -boulders piled upward in the crack. Handholes cut in the rock wall -support you over ticklish places, until finally you clamber out upon the -flat summit. In Coronado's time you would have been confronted there by -a wall of loose stones which the Acomas had built to roll down on the -heads of the unwelcome. Today, instead, the visitor is apt to be greeted -by an official of the pueblo exacting a head-tax of a dollar for the -privilege of seeing the town, and picture-taking extra! - -I think this precipitous trail is the one known as _El Camino del Padre_ -(the Father's Way), which is associated with a pretty bit of history. -The first permanent Christian missionary at Acoma was the Franciscan -Juan Ramirez. Now the Acomas had never been friendly to the Spaniards, -and it was only after a three days' hard battle in 1599, resulting in -the capture and burning of the town by the Spaniards, that the Indians -accepted vassalage to that inexplicable king beyond the sea.[33] -Naturally, no friendly feeling was engendered by this episode; so when -this Padre Ramirez, years afterward, was seen approaching the Rock one -day--it was in 1629--quite alone and unarmed save with cross and -breviary (having walked all the way from Santa Fe, a matter of 175 -miles) the Acomas decided to make short work of him. The unsuspecting -father started briskly up the rocky stairway, and when he came within -easy range, the watching Indians shot their arrows at him. Then a -remarkable thing happened. A little girl, one of a group looking over -the edge of the precipice, lost her balance and fell out of sight -apparently to her death. A few minutes later, the undaunted padre whom -the shelter of the cliff had saved from the arrows, appeared at the head -of the trail holding in his arms the little child smiling and quite -unharmed. Unseen by the Indians, she had lit on a shelving bit of rock -from which the priest had tenderly lifted her. So obvious a miracle -completely changed the Indians' feelings towards the long-gowned -stranger, and he remained for many years, teaching his dusky wards -Spanish and so much of Christian doctrine as they would assimilate. It -was this Fray Juan Ramirez, it is said, who had built the animal trail -which has been mentioned. - -[Illustration] - - AN ACOMA INDIAN DANCE - - The dances of the Pueblo Indians are not social diversions but - serious religious ceremonies. - -[Illustration] - - LAGUNA, THE MOTHER PUEBLO OF SEVEN - - This pueblo, languishing while neighboring Acoma flourished, - borrowed the latter's picture of St. Joseph to change her fortune, - prospered accordingly, and then refused to return the picture, thus - precipitating a lawsuit unique in our annals. - -Most visitors spend a couple of hours at Acoma, and return the same day -to the railroad. This, at a pinch, suffices for a ramble about the -streets, and for looking into doorways for glimpses of the primitive -family life, chaffering with the women for the pretty pottery for which -Acoma is famed,[34] and for a visit to the natural rock cisterns whence -girls are continually coming with dripping ollas balanced on their -heads. And of course, there is the old adobe church with its balconied -_convento_, to be seen. It dates from about 1700. As the Rock was bare -of building material, this had all to be brought up from below on the -backs of Indian neophytes--the timbers from the mountains 20 miles away. -The graveyard is a remarkable piece of work founded on the sloping rock -by building retaining walls of stone (40 feet high, at the outer end) -and filling in with sandy earth lugged patiently up from the plain. - -A conspicuous feature in the view from the Rock of Acoma is a solitary -mesa or rock-table, 3 miles to the northward, which the Acomas call -Katzímo, and the Spaniards named _La Mesa Encantada_ (the Enchanted -Mesa). Its flat top is 430 perpendicular feet above the plain, and can -now be reached only with scaling ladders and ropes. Formerly there was a -single trail up the side. The Indian tradition is that long, long ago, -before the coming of the white invaders, the village of the Acomas -occupied the summit. One day, while all the population except a few old -people were working in the fields below, a tempest completely swept away -the upper part of the trail; so that the inhabitants could never again -reach their homes. They began life over again by building a new pueblo -on the Rock of Acoma.[35] - -The annual public fiesta of Acoma is held September 2, the day of San -Estéban Rey--that is, of St. Stephen the King, Acoma's patron saint and -Hungary's. It is attended by a picturesque crowd of Mexicans, Navajos -and Pueblos, besides a sprinkling of Americans. Among the visitors are -thrifty Isleteños, their farm wagons loaded with melons, grapes and -peaches for sale and barter. As on all such occasions in the Rio Grande -pueblos, there is first a great clanging of the church bells to get the -people to mass; after which, the saint's statue beneath a canopy is -brought out from the church, and all the people march in procession -behind it, the cross, and the padre, while to the accompaniment of a -solemn chant the firing of guns and a wild clamor of discordant church -bells, the image is carried to a booth of green boughs in the plaza, -there to rest and receive the homage of the people. Throughout the day -baskets heaped with fruit, loaves of bread, vegetables and candles are -laid at the saint's feet, and at intervals the edibles are handed out to -the crowd, or tossed in the air to be scrambled for amid much hilarity. -In the afternoon there is an Indian dance, participated in by men and -women in colorful costumes, the women's heads adorned with _tablitas_ -(curious, painted boards set upright and cut into shapes symbolic of -clouds and what not). A choir of men with a drum made of a section of -cottonwood log, supplies the music, chanting in unison the ancient songs -of thanksgiving efficacious long before St. Stephen was ever heard of in -Acoma, and not to be lightly abandoned. At sundown the saint is returned -to his place in the church, and the evening is given over to such -jollity as personal fancy dictates, usually including a _baile_, or -dance, by the Mexicans and such white folk as stay, and it must be -confessed, too often a surreptitious bout with John Barleycorn smuggled -in by bootleggers. - -There are no accommodations for visitors at Acoma, but if you have a -taste for mild adventure you will enjoy--in retrospect anyhow--lodging a -night or two with some family in the village, if you have brought your -own provisions. This gives you a leisurely opportunity to watch the -people at their daily tasks, and to enjoy the exquisite outlook at -evening and early morning from the Rock. A night on an Acoma housetop -beneath the brilliant stars is like being transported to Syria. Take it -as a rule that if you desire to learn anything worth while of Indian -life, you must abandon hurry; and the more you pump an Indian, the less -he will tell you. The best things in the Southwest come to the waiting -traveler, not to the hustler. As to the language, in every pueblo there -is someone who talks English enough to act as interpreter, but if you -know a little Spanish, you may do without any intermediary in the Rio -Grande villages. - -The natural pendant to a visit to Acoma is one to Laguna pueblo, 2 miles -from the station of the same name.[36] Like Acoma, it is built upon a -rock, but Laguna's is merely a low outcropping little above the level of -the ground. The pueblo is full of picturesque bits, and the fall and -rise of the streets continually give you skyey silhouettes, the delight -of artists who like liberal foregrounds. The mature coloring of the -houses in time-mellowed, pearly tones, coupled with the fact that the -old trail leading from the outskirts of the pueblo to the spring is worn -deep in the rock floor by the wear of generations of moccasined feet, -gives one the impression that Laguna is of great antiquity. -Nevertheless, it is not, having been founded about 1697. In 1699 it -received its name San José de la Laguna--Saint Joseph of the Lake--the -appropriateness of which is not now apparent as there is no lake there. -In those days, however, there was a lagoon nearby, due largely to the -damming of the little River San José by beavers. English is very -generally spoken in this pueblo. - -Some 60 years ago Laguna was the defendant in a curious lawsuit brought -against it by Acoma. Fray Juan Ramirez--he of the _Camino del -Padre_--had put Acoma under the patronage of Saint Joseph, spouse of Our -Lady and patron of the Church Universal, and in the Acoma church the -saint's picture hung for many years, a source of local blessing as the -Acomas firmly believed. Now while Acoma prospered Laguna had many -misfortunes--crop failures, sickness and so on; and with a view to -bettering matters Laguna asked Acoma for the loan of Saint Joseph. This -request was granted with the understanding that the loan should be for -one month only. But alas, recreant Laguna, once in possession, refused -to give back the picture, which was proving as "good medicine" there as -had been the case at Acoma. At last the padre was called on to settle -the dispute and he suggested that lots be drawn for it. This was done -and the picture fell to Acoma. The Lagunas proved poor losers, however, -and made off with the painting by force--which enraged the Acomas to the -fighting point, and war was only averted by the padre's persuading them -to do what a Pueblo Indian is very loth to do, submit the case to the -white man's courts. Lawyers were engaged by both pueblos, and after a -hot wrangle involving an appeal to the Supreme Court of New Mexico, the -picture was awarded to Acoma. Evidently the saint himself approved the -judgment, for tradition has it that when the Acoma delegation appointed -to fetch the picture back were half way to Laguna, their astonished eyes -were greeted by the sight of it reposing under a mesquite bush. -Evidently, upon receipt of the news, it had set out of its own accord -for home! - -In proof of which the traveler today may see the painting in the old -church at Acoma.[37] - -Laguna's principal public fiesta is held annually on September 18, and -adds to the usual ceremonies of the saint's day at a pueblo the features -of a country fair, for the Lagunas are notable agriculturists. The -Mission church interior at Laguna, by the way, possesses features of -interest in the way of Indian decoration and ancient Spanish paintings, -particularly those of the altar done on stretched hide. Visitors may be -accommodated in Indian houses, if they court that experience, or at the -residence of a Protestant missionary near by. The National Old Trails -transcontinental highway passes the pueblo. - - - - - CHAPTER VI - TO ZUÑI, THE CENTER OF THE EARTH, VIA GALLUP - - -Gallup, New Mexico, has never made much of a stir as a tourist center, -but like many a spot of modest pretensions, it is deserving beyond its -gettings. As an example of the "city beautiful" it is not, in my -judgment, a success; but as a base and a fitting-out point for some of -the most interesting parts of the Southwest, it is to be heartily -commended.[38] Particularly is this so now that the motor car has so -largely supplanted the horse-drawn vehicle for excursions afield. There -are comfortable hotel accommodations and there are Harvey meals -obtainable. - -[Illustration] - - BEAD MAKER, ZUÑI PUEBLO - - Necklaces of flat, round beads made from sea shells form a common - adornment of Pueblo Indians. - -[Illustration] - - A STREET IN ACOMA PUEBLO - - The ladders afford means of access to the upper stories. - -From Gallup (which is on one of the main automobile routes followed by -transcontinental motorists) good trips radiate in many directions--85 -miles to Cañon de Chelly, for instance, and its cliff dwellings amidst -surpassing scenery; 75 miles to the Pueblo Bonito ruins in Chaco Cañon; -125 miles to the Hopi country; 42 miles to Zuñi pueblo; 75 miles to -Inscription Rock of the Conquistadores. The great Navajo reservation -with its picturesque aboriginal life reaches almost to Gallup's back -door, and even the Mesa Verde National Park,[39] can be done from Gallup -in 4 or 5 days for the round trip, if the weather conditions are right. - -This chapter has to do with the famous Indian pueblo of Zuñi, which lies -to the south, about 2½ hours by motor car. The road is all sorts from a -motorist's standpoint; so be your own best friend and take it -good-naturedly, for fussing will not mend it. In a few minutes you are -beyond sight of houses and railroads, and in a twinkling Time's clock -has whirled back a couple of centuries. You pass, perhaps, a Navajo -woman astride her pony, a sheepskin or two tied to the saddle, on her -way to the trader's for coffee and tobacco; and then a Mexican teamster -crouching over a bit of camp-fire where his chili and beans are stewing, -his wagon piled high with wool sacks drawn up by the roadside. Now a -solitary adobe ranch house, or a lone trader's log hut is seen in a -wilderness of sagey plain; and now a flock of sheep drift into the road -out of the piñon- and cedar-scrub, a couple of bright-eyed Navajo -children shepherding in their wake. By and by you pass another sort of -Indian on horseback, a slightly built man with long jet-black hair -lifted by the breeze, a red _banda_ encircling it--he is a Zuñi. And -then topping a low hill, you are greeted by the distant sight of a long -flat-topped mesa, creamy pink against a blue sky. It is Towa-yálleni, -Zuñi's Mountain of the Sacred Corn. A turn in the road, and the great -yellow plain of Zuñi spreads out before you, the Zuñi River threading -its midst, and on its bank the old pueblo humps itself like a huge -anthill, hardly distinguishable in color from the plain itself. - -Zuñi (with a population of some 1600) is historically perhaps the most -interesting of all the Pueblo towns, for it is the present-day -representative of those Seven Cities of Cíbola, the fable of whose -wealth led to the discovery of New Mexico in the sixteenth century. -There really were seven Zuñi villages in Coronado's time, all of which -have long since disappeared, though sites of at least five are known. -The present Zuñi pueblo seems to have been built about the year 1700, -replacing that one of the ancient seven known as Hálona. This occupied -the opposite or south bank of the river in Coronado's time--a spot now -partially covered by the buildings of a white trader. - -If you are going to hold your car and return to Gallup the same day, -there will probably be 3 or 4 hours available for a stroll about the -pueblo. The houses, of a characteristic reddish tone, rise from -one-storied structures on the outskirts to 5 stories at the center of -the town, and you will enjoy mounting by ladders and stepping stones to -that uppermost height for the lovely view over the plain to the -mountains that hem in the Zuñi valley. The narrow streets without -sidewalks open out now and then into small plazas, and some communicate -with one another by tunnels. Beehive ovens squat upon the roofs in -dome-like fashion and contribute a suggestion of the Orient--of Cairo or -Syria. Dogs, turkeys, pigs and burros have equal right with humanity in -the cramped thoroughfares, and if one is of a cleanly habit, one needs -to watch one's steps. But dirt and picturesqueness were ever comrades, -and Zuñi is truly picturesque. From the open door issues the hum of the -busy mealing stones, and the fragrance of the crushed corn; perhaps, -too, to your ravished ears, the high-keyed melody of grinding songs -shrilled by the women as they work. - -Look in, and if your manner is respectful and the girls not over shy, -you will be allowed the enjoyment of a charming picture of kneeling, -swaying bodies and of down-turned faces veiled in falling hair. Ollas of -native ware stand about with water; parti-colored blankets of Navajo or -Zuñi weave hanging from wall or ceiling give a touch of brightness in -the dim light of the room; in the triangular corner fireplace dinner -simmers within a bowl of native pottery set upon the coals. If fortune -favors you there may be a potter at her moulding, or, in the street, -jars being fired or bread being put to bake in the adobe ovens; or in -some plaza a ceremonial dance in costume may be in progress. Zuñi is -still comfortably pagan--the ancient Catholic church is a ruin and the -modern Protestant mission is by no means overworked--and throughout the -year the red gods of Zuñi have homage paid them in many a ceremony rich -in symbolism and pure beauty.[40] - -On the outskirts of the pueblo in August, one may have a sight of wheat -thrashing on the open-air thrashing floors, the grain being trodden out -in oriental fashion by horses, sheep or goats. Or there may be a -straight-away horse race over the plain with a picturesque crowd looking -on; or a _gallo_ race, the part of the rooster (_gallo_) humanely taken -in these latter days by a sack buried to the neck in the sand. A quieter -feature of interest is the quaint little vegetable gardens on a slope by -the river--each tiny garden enclosed with a thin adobe wall. These are -tended by the women who daily bring water in ollas and pails to irrigate -the plants. - -[Illustration] - - OLD CHURCH, ACOMA PUEBLO - - Dating from about 1700. Tradition has it that it was 40 years in - building. All material was carried up on Indians' backs from the - plain 350 feet below, by an almost precipitous trail. - -[Illustration] - - A SUNNY WALL IN ZUÑI - - The men of Zuñi are famous knitters. This one is making his wife a - pair of leggings. - -A short walk from the pueblo brings you to Hepatina (_hay'-pa-tee-na_) a -stone shrine erected on the plain, which in the Zuñi conception, marks -the center of the earth; for the unreconstructed Zuñi believes naturally -enough, just as your and my ancestors did a few centuries ago, that the -earth is flat. Hither in the days of long ago, a guardian divinity of -the Zuñis brought them as to the safest place in the world--the farthest -from the edge--preceding them in the form of a water strider. The -double-barred cross, which you will see sometimes on Zuñi pottery, or -fashioned in silver, is the symbol of that divine guide. There has been, -by the way, some good pottery made at Zuñi, and the visitor interested -in that art may still enjoy the adventure of a house-to-house ceramic -hunt with chances of a pleasurable outcome. - -The accommodations for visitors in the pueblo are very limited. Perhaps -one of the couple of white resident traders or the school teacher may be -complaisant enough to take you in; and there are certain Indian houses -where lodging can surely be had. If you are not of a meticulous sort, I -would recommend a stop-over long enough at least to visit the mesa -Towa-yálleni, which Cushing has put into literature as Thunder Mountain. -It looks near the pueblo, but is really 4 miles distant. On its summit -centuries ago there was a pueblo of the Zuñis, the broken down walls of -which, overrun with cactus and brush, are still quite evident. Curious -pictographs of the ancients may be traced on many a rock; and if one -knows where to look, there are pagan shrines where prayer plumes are yet -offered to the Divine Ones. Among such are those of the Twin War Gods, -whose home is believed to have been on Towa-yálleni--"little fellows -that never give up." I was once informed by a Zuñi, "gone away now may -be gone up, may be gone down; _quien sabe_?"[41] It was on this mountain -the Zuñis found a refuge after their losing fight with Coronado in 1540; -and again in 1632 they retreated hither after killing their missionary, -Padre Letrado, of whom we shall hear again at Inscription Rock in the -next chapter. And here they were in 1692 when De Vargas forced their -surrender in the re-conquest. Tradition has it, too, that here long, -long ago, the people fled for safety when an offended deity flooded them -out of their villages in the plain; and the water still rising, a -desperate sacrifice was called for. A boy and a girl were tossed from -the summit into the angry flood. In a twinkling, the children were -transformed into pinnacles of rock and the waters sank appeased. You can -see these spires of stone today from Zuñi, and old people will tell you -that the one with a double point is the boy. A peculiar virtue resides -in that petrified humanity it seems. If a childless couple resort to the -base of the pinnacles and there plant prayer plumes, there will be -granted to them the children of their desire. - -There are trails, steep and rough, up Towa-yálleni's sides, and if you -can make the trip with an intelligent and communicative old Zuñi (most -of the young ones seem to know or care little about the ancient things), -you will have a remarkable outing. An hour or two spent on that lonely -breeze-swept, sun-kissed mesa-top, with the ruined town, its broken -shrines, its historic and legendary memories, will induct you, as no -amount of reading will, into the atmosphere of the Southwest's romantic -past. There used to be--and for all I know still is--a trail that a -rider on horseback can follow, at the northeastern side of the mesa. The -ancient peach orchard through which it wound owes its existence to seed -brought to Zuñi by the Spaniards. - - NOTE: Five miles northeast of Zuñi, is Black Rock, where travelers - with an interest in Government education of the Indians may see a - Reservation School in operation. Within a radius of 15 or 20 miles of - the main pueblo are 3 farming villages occupied in summer by Zuñis to - be near certain tracts of tillable land. One of these, Ojo Caliente, - 15 miles southwest of Zuñi, is close to the site of ancient - Háwikuh--the first Pueblo town seen by white men. Upon it in 1539, - intrepid Fray Marcos de Niza looked down from a nearby height, and - then, warned by the murder of his avant-courier, the negro Estévanico, - beat a prudent retreat to Mexico. Coronado captured the place in the - following year, and thence made his first report of the famous 7 - cities to the viceroy in Mexico. It is the scene of one of the most - charming of Cushing's Zuñi folk tales, "The Foster Child of the Deer." - Extensive excavations have recently been made there by Government - ethnologists. - - - - - CHAPTER VII - EL MORRO, THE AUTOGRAPH ROCK OF THE CONQUISTADORES - - -Thirty-five miles eastward from Zuñi (2 hours by automobile, if the -roads are dry) is a huge rock mass of pale pink sandstone whose sides -rise sheer a couple of hundred feet against a turquoise sky. It stands -in the midst of a lonely plain whose wild grasses are nibbled by the -passing flocks of wandering Navajos, and so far as I know, there is no -nearer human habitation than the little Mormon settlement of Ramah, -through which you pass to reach the rock. This cliff has a story to tell -of such unique interest that the United States Government has acquired -the mesa of which it is a spur for a National Monument. It is known as -Inscription Rock, or El Morro (the latter a not uncommon -Spanish-American designation for a bold promontory), and was a landmark -as early as the sixteenth century for the Spanish expeditions bound -between Santa Fe, Acoma and Zuñi. Water, feed, and wood were here -available, as they are today, making the foot of the high cliff a good -camping place, and here as a matter of fact during the sixteenth, -seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries, many a Spanish military party did -camp, and having rested themselves and their cattle, went on refreshed -to do the errands of their King and Church. - -And hither one day in 1849, just after New Mexico had become part of the -United States, came Lieut. J. H. Simpson, U. S. A., with some troopers -on a military reconnaissance, and discovered that the base of the cliff -was a veritable album of those old Conquistadores; bearing not only the -names of the Spanish explorers but frequently an accompaniment of date -and comment that form important contributory evidence touching the early -history of the Southwest. Simpson made copies of a number of the -inscriptions, and these were published with translations (not always -accurate) in his report to the Secretary of War.[42] Most of those -recordings carved in the soft rock with sword or dagger point are still -fresh and legible, so little have centuries of dry New Mexico weather -worn the clear-cut lettering. If you go to see them, you will be a -dry-as-dust indeed if you do not feel an odd sort of thrill as you put -your finger tips upon the chiseled autographs of the men who won for -Spain an empire and held it dauntlessly. For most of these records are -not idle scribblings of the witless, but careful work by people with a -purpose, whose names are mentioned in the documents of the time. Here -are the names, for instance, of Oñate, the conqueror, and of De Vargas, -the re-conqueror, the very flower of the warrior brotherhood. The Rock -is a monument such as has no duplicate in the country; and some day when -our historians have got the Southwest in proper perspective, and waked -up to a realization of the heroism and romance that went into the making -of it, El Morro will perhaps be really protected (if its priceless -inscriptions survive so long) and not left as it is now to vandal -tourists to hack and carve their silly names upon. - -It takes knowledge of old Spanish abbreviations to get at the sense of -many of the records, but even the casual visitor cannot but be struck by -the artistry that characterizes many of the petrographs. One who has -Spanish enough to give zest to the quest could easily spend a couple of -days, camped at this fascinating spot, spelling out the quaint old -notations, peopling again in fancy this ancient camp-ground with the -warriors of long ago in helmet and cuirass, their horses housed in -leather; and ever with them the Franciscan soldiers of the Cross in gray -gown and cord with dangling crucifix. Then there is the enjoyment of the -place itself--the sunny solitude, and the glorious, extended views, the -long blue line of the Zuñi Mountains, the pale spires of La Puerta de -los Gigantes (the Giants' Gate). Then, if you like, is the climb to the -mesa's summit for yet wider views, and a sight of the ruined old pueblo -there, whereof history has naught to tell--only tradition, which says -that it was once a Zuñian town. - -There is some doubt as to the earliest inscription on the Rock. One -questionable writing, unsigned, appears to be 1580. Next in point of -antiquity is the undoubted record of Oñate, cut across an earlier Indian -petrograph, and reads _literatim_: "Paso por aqi el adelantado don jua -de oñate del descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 del abril del 1606." -(That is: Passed by here the provincial chief Don Juan de Oñate from the -discovery of the South Sea on 16th of April, 1606.) The discovery he -records as of the South Sea (i.e., Pacific Ocean) was really of the Gulf -of California, for Oñate doubtless believed as most of the world did in -his day that California was an island. Oddly enough, though, he made a -mistake in the date, which documentary evidence proves to have been 1605 -not 1606. - -The inscription of De Vargas, the reconqueror, following the Pueblo -rebellion of 1680, reads: "Aqui estaba el Genl Dn. Do de Vargas quien -conquisto a nuestra santa fe y la real corona todo el nuevo Mexico a su -costa año de 1692." (Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas who -conquered to our holy faith and the royal crown all New Mexico, at his -own expense, year of 1692.) - -Records of especial interest, too, are two of 1629, telling of the -passing by of Governor Silva Nieto. One is in rhymed verse[43] and -refers to Nieto as the "bearer of the Faith to Zuñi;" that is, he had -acted as escort of the first Christian missionaries to pagan Zuñi. A -tragic sequel to that inscription is a short one that is so abbreviated -that scholars have had a hard tussle with it. The puzzle has been -solved, however. You will know this petroglyph by the signature Lujan, a -soldier, and the date 1632; and it reads, Englished: "They passed on 23 -March 1632 to the avenging of Padre Letrado's death." Zuñi did not take -kindly to its missionaries and killed them periodically. This Padre -Letrado was one of the martyrs--shot to death as he preached, holding -out his crucifix to his murderers.[44] - -In delicate, almost feminine, characters is a modest inscription that -reads, translated: "I am from the hand of Felipe de Avellano, 16 -September, soldier." There is something touching, I think, about that -personified periphrase, and I am glad that, in spite of the omission of -the year, historians have identified the writer. He was a common soldier -of the garrison at Zuñi after the reconquest, and met death there in -1700. - -It is unfortunate that this noble and unique monument should be left -exposed as it is to vandals. Almost every white visitor thinks it is his -duty to scratch his name up alongside the historic ones and there is no -guardian to forbid--only an unregarded sign of the Department of the -Interior tacked on a nearby tree. A year ago the Department, in response -to private representation, promised to put up a fence of protection, and -perhaps this has been done; but a fence is a perfectly inadequate -measure. If the East possessed one such autograph in stone (of Joliet, -or La Salle, or Cartier), as El Morro bears by the half dozen, I wonder -if the few hundred a year necessary to support a local guardian would -not be forthcoming? When will our nation take seriously the colonial -history of the Southwest as just as much its own as that of the Atlantic -side of the Continental Divide? - -At the shortest, it is a matter of two days to achieve a visit to El -Morro from the railway. Gallup is the best stop-off. There an automobile -may be hired, and the night spent at Ramah, where accommodations may be -had at the trader's unless you prefer to camp at the Rock itself, which, -if you like such adventure and are prepared, is a joyous thing to do. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - THE STORIED LAND OF THE NAVAJO - - -The Navajos are the Bedouins of our Southwest, and there are about -22,000 of them--a fine, independent tribe of Indians occupying a -semi-desert, mountainous reservation in northwestern New Mexico, -northeastern Arizona and a small corner of Utah. Indeed they occupy -somewhat more, for they are confirmed rovers and are frequently found -setting up their _hogans_, shepherding their sheep, and weaving their -blankets, well across their government-fixed borders. One is sure to see -some of them in Gallup, where they come to trade--the men generally in -dark velveteen shirts worn loose outside the trousers, their long, -black, uncut hair filleted about with red _bandas_ and caught up behind -in a club or knot. Both men and women are expert riders, sitting their -ponies as firmly as centaurs; and both are extravagantly fond of silver -jewelry, of which they often wear small fortunes in necklaces, belts, -bracelets, rings and buttons hammered by their own silversmiths from -coin of Mexico. If you see them wearing blankets, as you will when the -weather requires it, these will be the gaudy products of Yankee looms, -which they buy for less than the price they receive for their own famous -weave. So, thrifty traders that they are, they let the white folk have -the latter and content themselves with the cheaper machine-made article -bought from an American merchant. - -It is part of the fun of a visit to the Hopi towns that you must cross a -section of the Navajo Reservation and thus get a glimpse of life in the -latter; but there is a special trip which I would like to recommend from -Gallup as a starting point, that brings one more intimately into touch -with the tribe. That is to Chin Lee and the Cañon de Chelly,[45] about -100 miles northwest of Gallup. There is a choice of roads, so that the -going and returning may be by different routes. The trip may be done by -time economists in an automobile in two or three days, but a more -enjoyable plan for easy-going folk is to take eight or ten days to it by -horseback or wagon, camping by the way. And do it preferably in -September or early October, for then the mid-year rains are usually -over, the air clear and sparkling, and feed for horses sufficiently -abundant. The elements that enter into the landscape are primarily those -that go to the making of the grandeur of the Grand Cañon region, but -scattered and distant, not concentrated. There is a similar sculpturing -of the land into pinnacles and terraces, cones perfect or truncated, -battlemented castles and airy spires, appearing, when afar, mistily in -an atmosphere of amethyst and mauve and indefinite tones of yellow and -pink. Now the road threads open, sunny forests of pine and oak, the -latter in autumnal dress of crimson and gold and surprising you with -acorns as sweet as chinquapins. Again, it traverses broad, unwatered, -semi-desert plains dotted with fragrant sage-brush and riotous -sunflowers, the only animated things in sight being prairie dogs and -jackrabbits, or an occasional band of Navajo ponies. As the morning -advances, cumulus clouds rise in stately squadrons above the horizon and -move across the sky dropping drifting shadows; at noon over a fire of -sage stumps you heat up your beans and brew your coffee in the grateful -shade of your wagon; night finds you at some hospitable trader's post, -or enjoying your blankets at the sign of _La belle étoile_. Only at long -intervals will you come upon sign of human life. At Fort Defiance, 30 -miles north of Gallup, is a Government Reservation school for the -Navajos, and a mile from it an Episcopal medical mission--a living -monument to the loving interest of Miss Eliza Thackara in these Indians. -Eight miles south of Fort Defiance is the Franciscan Mission of St. -Michael's to the Navajo, where, if you are interested, the hospitable -Brothers can show you what sort of a job it is to transform an ungroomed -savage into Christian semblance. At Ganado, Arizona, 45 miles from -Gallup, is the trading post of Mr. J. L. Hubbell, whose name for a -generation has in that part of the world been a synonym for -hospitality.[46] - -Nevertheless, there is more life than you see, for the native _hogan_, -or one-roomed dwelling of logs covered with earth, is so inconspicuous -that you may pass within a few rods of one and never detect it. The -Navajos do not congregate in villages but each family wants a -lot--miles, indeed--of elbow room. - -Chin Lee, mentioned above, is not Chinese as it sounds, but the Navajo -name of a spacious valley into which Cañon de Chelly debouches. If you -have a taste for mythology, it will interest you to know that here, -according to tradition, Estsán-atlehi (the chief goddess of the Navajo -pantheon and wife of the Sun-god), traveling from the east once camped -with her attendant divinities for a great ceremony and a footrace. She -was on her way to her home in the great water of the west, where in a -floating house she still lives, and receives her lord the Sun every -evening when his daily work is finished.[47] There is a trading post at -Chin Lee, and beyond the broad flat in front of it is the entrance to -Cañon de Chelly. This is a narrow, tortuous rift in the earth, some 20 -miles long, whose perpendicular sides of red sandstone rise 800 to 1000 -feet. Opening into it are two side gorges, Monument and Del Muerto -Cañons. A shallow stream of sweet water--sometimes, however, hidden -beneath the sands--creeps along the cañon floor, widens in the plain -into the Rio de Chelly, and flowing northward joins the San Juan in -southern Utah. So in time does it contribute its bit to the tawny flood -that pours through the Grand Cañon of the Colorado.[48] - -The interests that hold the visitor in Cañon de Chelly are several. -There is, first, the stupendous scenery. Men and animals traversing this -level floor seem pygmies at the foot of the smooth, vertical walls, -carved and stained by the master-artist Time working through who knows -how many milleniums. The windings of the gorge keep one in perpetual -expectancy of something going to happen just around the corner, and -create an atmosphere of mystery that is little short of thrilling. In -places the cañon widens out in sunlit coves and wild-grass meadows, -where clustered reeds[49] rustle and wild flowers bloom. Quite as often, -though, the walls are so close together that the sunshine never reaches -the bottom and the grim surroundings suggest some overwhelming picture -of Doré's. - -Then there are the ancient dwellings in the cliffs--little, crumbling -cities of the dead. Perched high up in shallow cavities of the flat -wall, some are inaccessible except by ladders; others, may be reached by -scrambling up talus slopes. One famous one, known as Mummy Cave, in -Cañon del Muerto, should by all means be visited; but even more striking -is one in the main cañon called _La Casa Blanca_ or the White House. The -upper story of this majestic ruin, which strikingly resembles some -medieval castle, is colored white; and the whole line of the immense -edifice set high above the earth and projected against the dark -background of a natural cavity in the enormous cliff, makes a dramatic -picture. The effect is heightened when we learn that in Navajo folk-lore -it plays a part as the abode of certain genii or minor divinities who, -the faithful believe, still haunt the edifice. - -In places the cliffs are prehistoric art galleries, adorned with -pictographs of unheard-of birds and animals, human hands outspread, -geometrical designs, and attenuated figures of men in various attitudes. - -Lastly, there is the interest of a present-day Indian life, for the -cañon is the free, joyous home of numerous Navajo families, that come -and go as fancy dictates. Their _hogans_, often with a hand-loom for -blanket weaving[50] swung from a nearby tree are set inconspicuously -here and there at the base of the towering cliffs, wherever there is a -bit of land suitable for the raising of corn, beans and melons. Peach -orchards, too, are here, from seed of Spanish introduction centuries -ago. Flocks of sheep and goats are continually on the move up and down -the cañon, which is musical with their bleatings and the wild melody of -the shepherds' songs. It is a picturesque sight at evening to see the -homing bands crowding into the primitive folds which sometimes are a -mere crevice in the rock walls with a rude fence thrown across the -opening. - -During the wars which for many years marked the intercourse of the -Navajos with the whites--both Spaniards and Americans--the Cañon de -Chelly was a notable stronghold of the red men. It was here that in 1864 -Kit Carson and his troopers at last succeeded in breaking the backbone -of the Indian resistance. Today the Navajos are as peaceable as the -Pueblos. - -According to Navajo legends, the boundaries of their land were marked -out for them by the gods who brought them up through the great reed from -the lower world.[51] These landmarks were in the form of mountains -especially created for the purpose of earth brought from the lower -world, and were seven in number. Of these the Sacred Mountain of the -East is believed to be Pelado Peak, 20 miles northeast of Jemes pueblo -and it was made fast to the earth by a bolt of lightning; the Sacred -Mountain of the South is known to be Mount San Matéo, 20 miles or so -northwest of Laguna pueblo, held in place by a great stone knife thrust -through it from summit to base; the Sacred Mountain of the West, is the -San Francisco Mountain, 12 miles north of Flagstaff, Arizona, fastened -down by a sunbeam; and the Sacred Mountain of the North is some one of -the San Juan range, which a rainbow held in place. The other three are -peaks of the mid-region, only one of which, Hosta Butte in Bernalillo -County, New Mexico, has been identified.[52] Two of these mountains are -plainly visible from the Santa Fe Railway trains and by motorists -following the National Old Trails transcontinental highway--namely, the -San Francisco Mountain (12,611 feet) and Mount San Matéo (11,389 feet). -Both are extinct volcanoes. The vicinity of Mount San Matéo (which is -also known as Mount Taylor)[53] is the scene of a thrilling tradition. -There it was that the Navajo Gods of War (children of the Sun and of the -Waterfall), mounted upon a rainbow, met and slew with lightning bolts -the boy-eating giant, Ye-itso. The latter was a monster so huge that the -spread of his two feet was a day's journey for a man, his footfalls were -as thunder, and when he drank his draught exhausted a lake. His head, -cut off by the War-gods and tossed away, was changed into El Cabezon, a -truncated cone of a mountain visible 40 miles northeast from San Matéo; -and his blood flowing in a deluge to the south and west is what we white -folk in our ignorance call a hardened lava-flow, as we watch it from the -car window for miles westward from McCarty's. Look at it again with the -eyes of faith, and is not its semblance that of coagulated, blackened -blood? - -So you see in this glorious Southwest we may still follow in the very -footsteps of the gods, and regard the world as it seems through the eyes -of a primitive and poetic race--see in the lightning the weapon of the -red gods, in the rainbows their bridges to traverse chasms withal, in -the sunbeams their swift cars of passage. There is something rather -exhilarating, I think, to know that in our materialistic America there -is a region where the Ancient Ones still haunt as in the youth of the -world. To be sure the white man's schools are operating to break up this -primitive faith; but the ingrained genius of a race is not made over in -a generation. One may stumble still upon Navajo religious ceremonies, -held in the open, with their picturesque rites and maskings and wild -music. They differ markedly from the ceremonies of the Pueblos, and are, -as a rule, undertaken under the charge of medicine men primarily for the -cure of the sick. There are no fixed dates for any of these ceremonies, -and casual travelers do not often see them, as they are most likely to -be held during the cold weather, when few visitors care to penetrate -into the country. An exceedingly interesting adjunct of many of the -Navajo rites is the dry sand painting, of a symbolic character and often -of striking beauty, made in color upon a prepared flooring of sand. The -design is "drawn" on this by dribbling upon it the dry ground -pigments--white, red, yellow, black and gray--from between the artist's -thumb and fore-finger. The picture must be done in one day, several men -sometimes working upon it at once. When completed the sick man is placed -upon it and treated; and after that, the picture is obliterated.[54] - - - - - CHAPTER IX - THE HOMES OF THE HOPIS, LITTLE PEOPLE OF PEACE - - -Now that the automobile has become a common mode of travel even in the -desert, you may reach the pueblos of the Hopi Indians quite comfortably -from Gallup.[55] The distance is about 130 miles to the first of the -villages. The road is via St. Michael's (where the Franciscan Brothers -maintain a Mission for the Navajos); Ganado, where Mr. J. L. Hubbell's -trading post stands; and Keam's Cañon, where Mr. Lorenzo Hubbell, -hospitable son of a hospitable father, has another trading post. As far -as Ganado (70 miles) the way is identical with the first part of one -road to the Cañon de Chelly. From Ganado westward there are 60 miles of -pure wilderness, semi-desert, treeless, but in summer and autumn -splendid in places with sheets of wild flowers in purple and yellow. On -every hand--sometimes near, sometimes afar--are the characteristic mesa -formations of the Southwest carved by the elements into curious shapes -to which the fancy readily suggests names. One that you will pass is a -strikingly good model of a battleship's dismantled hull, and goes by the -name of Steamboat Rock--a pleasant conceit for this desert, which, the -geologists tell us, was once a sea bottom. Nowhere is sign of humanity, -save perhaps, some wandering Navajos or a chance traveler like yourself. - -[Illustration] - - CASA BLANCA OR WHITE HOUSE - - A prehistoric Cliff dwelling set amidst the stupendous scenery of - the Cañon de Chelly, Arizona--the reputed haunt of certain Navajo - gods. - -[Illustration] - - EL MORRO OR INSCRIPTION ROCK, N. M. - - This remarkable cliff bears near its base a score or more of - autographs carved in the stone by the Spanish conquerors during the - 17th and 18th centuries. - -At last there comes a change over the country ahead of you--a -transfiguration to broad sweeps of pink and pallid yellow, with here and -there a streak of white or of green, and on the far horizon a wall of -purple. The Painted Desert is before you, and upon the very tip of a -long promontory streaked horizontally with brown and red and yellow, and -laid upon the desert like a gigantic arm thrust out, you see the -castellated sky-line formed by the pueblos of the First Hopi Mesa. The -geography of the Hopi country is like this: Three long, narrow mesas -extending fingerlike into the Painted Desert, the tips about 10 miles -each from the next. On the First Mesa (which is the easternmost) are -three villages in an almost continuous row--Hano (called also Tewa), -which you plump breathlessly into at the top of the one steep trail -which is your means of access to all; then Sichúmovi, and lastly, at the -mesa's extremity with all the desert in front, is Walpi, a most -picturesque pile rising in terraces to 4 stories and suggesting some -mediaeval fortress. The Second Mesa is forked at its tip, with -Mishóngnovi and Shipaúlovi set superbly along one tine, and -Shimópovi[56] on the other. On the Third Mesa stands old Oraibi, largest -and until recently most populous of all. Some years ago, however, it -suffered a secession of fully half its population, who are now -established a few miles away on the same mesa forming the independent -pueblos of Hótavila and Bácavi.[57] - -The situation of these little towns is magnificent beyond words, -overlooking the Painted Desert, ever changing, ever wonderful, ever -challenging the spiritual in you, and stretching to where the San -Francisco Peaks, the Mogollones and the White Mountains notch the dim -horizon line. The elevation (6000 feet above the sea) and the purity and -dryness of the air, combine to make the climate particularly healthful -and enjoyable. Winter brings frosts and some snow, alternating with -brilliant sunshine. Summer, the season that interests the average -visitor, is as a rule delightful--the afternoon thunder showers of July -and August being only a refreshment and a source of added -picturesqueness in the form of superb cloud effects, spectacular -lightning, and splendid rainbows. Mid-day is warm enough for old men to -loiter in the sun in a costume that is pared down to a breech clout and -little children joyously wear nothing at all; yet both need covering in -the shade. As for the summer nights, they are always deliciously cool -and for outdoor sleeping are ideal. The flat-roofed, eaveless houses are -usually of flat stones laid in mud mortar, and though terraced, do not -usually exceed two or three stories in height. The arrangement is in -streets and plazas, the _kivas_ or ceremonial chambers (corresponding to -the _estufas_ of the Rio Grande pueblos) being underground and reached -by a descending ladder, whose upper part--two rungless poles--stick -picturesquely up in the air. There is a growing tendency to build the -new houses at the bases of the cliffs, particularly at the First and -Third Mesas--a reversal to first principles; for when Don Pedro de -Tovar, a lieutenant of Coronado, with Padre Juan de Padilla (of whom we -heard at Isleta) and a few soldiers, visited in 1540 this province of -Tusayan, as they called the country, they reported the Hopis dwelling at -the foot of the mesas. It was only later, probably after the Pueblo -Rebellion of 1680, that the towns were rebuilt upon the mesa summits -where we now find them. The sites of two former Walpis may still be -traced below the First Mesa together with the ruins of an ancient -Franciscan Mission, some of whose timbers, they say, form part of the -existing pagan _kivas_. The Hopi never took kindly to missionary effort -by the whites. Every _padre_ among them was murdered at the time of the -Rebellion, and they would never tolerate another. Even kind Padre Garcés -(of whom we shall hear in a subsequent chapter) the Oraibians kept -sitting outdoors in a street corner for two days, and then evicted him -from their town. In 1700, one pueblo whose inhabitants showed a -hospitable feeling to the preaching of a persistent friar, was attacked -by neighboring Hopis, set on fire and such of the inhabitants as were -not killed, were carried to other towns. Of that pueblo--its name was -Awátobi--you may see some ruined remnants yet about 9 miles southeast of -Walpi.[58] - -The attraction that draws most visitors to the country of the Hopi -Indians is the famous Snake Dance held annually in August. The date is a -movable one and not known positively until 9 days in advance, when the -information may be had of the Santa Fe railway officials, who make it a -point to be posted. This remarkable ceremony, in which live snakes, a -large proportion of them venomous rattlers, are handled by the dance -participants as nonchalantly as if they were kittens, is in fact a -prayer for rain, in which the snakes (never harmed or their fangs -extracted as is sometimes ignorantly supposed), are intermediaries -between the people and the gods of water. It is moreover the -dramatization of a Hopi myth concerning the origin of the two -clans--Antelope and Snake--who perform the ceremony. The myth has to do -with the adventures of a young man who, impelled by curiosity to know -where the river waters went, made a trip on a hollow log down the -Colorado to its mouth. There he had many dealings with the Snake people, -in whose ways he was instructed by the friendly Spider Woman. Finally he -married the Snake chief's daughter, and brought her to his own country. -The first children of this union were snakes, which the Hopis drove -away, but the next were human, and these, the ancestors of the present -Snake Clan, came to Walpi to live. The entire ceremony continues -throughout 9 days, and is conducted secretly in the underground _kiva_ -until near sunset of the last day. Then the priests dramatically emerge -into the upper air, and the dance with the snakes occurs. It is all over -in about half an hour, but that half hour is what brings the -crowd--about the most thrilling and wide-awake performance that is -offered anywhere in America. Though the Snake Dance takes place -annually, all the villages do not hold it the same year. The most -frequented presentations are those at Walpi, held in the odd years, as -1917, 1919, etc., and at Oraibi, the latter in the even years, as 1918, -1920, etc. - -The Snake Dance attracts largely through the horror awakened in most of -us by reptiles, though it possesses many elements of majestic beauty, -too. There are numerous other Hopi ceremonies whose dominant feature to -the white onlooker is simple beauty; for instance, the picturesque Flute -ceremony held at springs below the mesas, and then along the ascending -trails to the mesa-top accompanied by songs, the music of native flutes -and the scattering of flowers. This ceremony, which is also the -dramatization of a legend[59] as well as an invocation for rain, -alternates with the Snake Dance, being held at about but not at the -identical time with it, and always at other pueblos than those holding -the Snake Dance. This permits attenders at one to witness the other -also. Then at all the pueblos there are the autumnal Basket Dances of -the women, and in spring and summer the many beautiful Katchina Dances. -Katchinas are the deified spirits of the Hopis' ancestors, and are -intercessors with the greater gods for divine favors for the Hopis. They -are supposed to reside amid the San Francisco Peaks, where the home of -the Sun god is, the great dispenser of blessings. Their annual visits -(Indians of the pueblo impersonating the gods) are the occasions of much -merry-making, of songs and processions, and dances in mask and gay -costumes. Each god has his distinctive mask and dress, and the queer -little wooden "dolls" (as the traders call them, though "Katchina" is -the better word), which the visitors find in Hopi houses are careful -representations of these, made for the children of the household to -familiarize themselves with the characteristic aspect of each divinity. -"These dances," to quote Mr. Walter Hough, whose excellent little work, -"The Hopi," should be read by every intending visitor, "show the -cheerful Hopi at his best--a true spontaneous child of nature. They are -the most characteristic ceremonies of the pueblos, most musical, -spectacular and pleasing. They are really more worthy of the attention -of white people than the forbidding Snake Dance, which overshadows them -by the elements of horror." - -Visitors who allow themselves to be hurried up to the Hopi towns the day -before the Snake Dance and then packed off home the next morning, as -most of them do, may think they have had a good time, but it is largely -the bliss of ignorance. They do not know what they have missed by not -spending a week or two. To be sure accommodations are limited and -primitive, but one must expect to rough it more or less in Indian -country. Still the Hopis are not savages and one can be made -comfortable. It is generally possible to rent one of the small houses at -the foot of the mesa, if one does not bring one's own camp outfit, and -there are traders at most of the villages where supplies of necessaries -may be obtained. Climb the trail to the sunny, breeze-swept mesa top; -get acquainted with the merry, well-behaved little children--easy -enough, particularly if you have a little stock of candy; watch the -women making _piki_ (the thin wafer-like corn-bread of many colors that -is the Hopi staff of life), or molding or burning pottery; see the men -marching off, huge hoes on shoulder, to cultivate their corn and beans, -sometimes miles away, in damp spots of the desert, or coming -inward-bound driving burros laden with firewood or products of the -field. All this, in an architectural setting that is as picturesque as -Syria, replete with entrancing "bits" that are a harvest to the artist -or the kodaker. After a day or two you will have had your measure pretty -well taken by the population, and granting your manners have been -decent, you will be making friends, and every day will show you -something new in the life of this most interesting race. Of course there -is a difference in the different towns--the customs of some have been -more modified than others by contact with the whites and the influence -of the Government educational system. The Walpians and their neighbors -are perhaps the most Americanized; the people of Hótavila and Shimópovi, -the least so. - -The Hopis possess arts of great interest. Pottery of beautiful form and -design is made at Hano[60] of the First Mesa. This tiny village has the -honor of being the home of the most famous of Indian potters, Nampéyo, -whose work is so exquisite that it looks distinctive in any company. Her -daughter Kwatsoa seems nearly as gifted. Then there is basketry. -Curiously enough the East Mesa makes no baskets whatever, and the -baskets of the Middle Mesa are quite of another sort from those of the -Third Mesa, and both so different from all other Indian baskets -whatsoever, as to be recognized at a glance. The Third Mesa baskets are -woven wicker work usually in the form of a tray or plaque, the design -symbolizing birds, clouds, butterflies, etc., in glaring aniline dyes. -Those of the Second Mesa are in heavy coils sewed together with a thread -of the yucca wrapping, and in various shapes from flat to globular, the -latter sometimes provided with handles. Weaving is an ancient Hopi art -that is now unfortunately decadent. In pre-Spanish days and for some -time afterwards, the Hopi cultivated a native cotton,[61] and cotton is -still woven by them into ceremonial kilts and cord. Formerly they were -famous weavers of rabbit-skin blankets. The visitor may still run across -an occasional one in the pueblos, but the blanket of wool has long since -displaced them. The Hopis make of weaving a man's business, which is -usually carried on in the _kivas_ when these are not being used for -religious purposes. They specialize in women's _mantas_, or one-piece -dresses, of a dark color with little or no ornamentation. - - - - - CHAPTER X - THE PETRIFIED FOREST OF ARIZONA - - -Everybody enjoys his stop off at the Petrified Forest. For one thing, -this sight is as easy of achievement as falling off a log, and that -counts heavily with your average American tourist. Even if your train -drops you at Adamana[62] in the middle of the night, as some trains do, -there will be somebody there to carry your bag and pilot you the couple -of hundred yards to the lone hotel which, with the railroad station and -the water tank, is practically all there is of Adamana. Then you are put -comfortably to bed in a room that awaits you. In the morning you are -given a leisurely breakfast at your own hour, and packed in an -automobile to see one part of the Forest; brought home to luncheon; and -in the afternoon motored off to another part. If you are an invalid or -just naturally lazy, you need not even leave your seat in the -conveyance. After that it is your choice to proceed on your travels, or -stay over another day and visit more distant parts of the Forest. In -seeing the Forest, you incidentally have several miles of reasonably -easy driving over the vast northern Arizona plateau with its wide views -to the edge of a world hemmed in with many a dreamy mountain range and -long, colorful, flat-topped mesas breaking away in terraces and steps to -the plains. You will quite possibly see coyotes and jackrabbits and -prairie dogs, cattle grazing the wild grasses, a Navajo Indian or two, -cowboys on their loping ponies, perhaps a round-up with its trailing -chuckwagon. You will steep yourself in the delicious Arizona sunshine, -and be humbled before the majesty of the glorious Arizona sky, blue as -sapphire and piled high at times with colossal masses of cumulus clouds -that forevermore will mean Arizona to you. - -The Forest is unfortunately mis-named, for it is not a forest. There is -not a single standing trunk, such as you may see occasionally in Utah or -the Yellowstone. In the midst of a treeless plain the broken logs litter -the ground in sections rarely over 25 feet long, oftenest in short -chunks as if sawn apart, and in chips and splinters innumerable. Trunk -diameters of 2 or 3 feet are common, and as high as 6 feet has been -reported. It seems likely that the trees did not grow where they now lie -but have been washed hither in some prehistoric swirl of waters, (as -logs are carried down stream in our latter-day puny freshets,) becoming -stranded in certain depressions of the land where we now find them, -often having had their woody tissue gradually replaced by silica and -agatized. Whence they came nobody knows, nor when. The guess of the -unlettered guide who shows you about, may be as near right as the -trained geologist's, who locates the time of their fall as the Triassic -Age, and their old home as perhaps beside some inland sea; but whether -that was one million years ago or twenty, who can say, further than that -they surely antedate the appearance of man upon this planet. The trees -are evidently of different sorts, but mostly conifers apparently related -to our present day araucarias, of which the Norfolk Island pine is a -familiar example. Mr. F. H. Knowlton, botanist of the Smithsonian -Institution, identifies then as _Araucarioxylon Arizonicum_, an extinct -tree once existing also in the east-central United States.[63] Limbs and -branches in anything approaching entirety are not found--only the trunks -and infinite fragments are here. The coloration due to the presence of -iron oxides in the soil at the time of silicification is often -exquisite, in shades of pink, yellow, blue, brown, crimson--a never -failing source of delight to visitors. Dr. L. F. Ward, of the United -States Geological Survey, has said that "there is no other petrified -forest in which the wood assumes so many varied and interesting forms -and colors.... The state of mineralization in which much of this wood -exists almost places it among the gems or precious stones. Not only are -chalcedony, opals and agates found among them, but many approach the -condition of jasper and onyx."[64] - -The parts of the Forest that tourists usually visit are the so-called -First Forest, about 6 miles south of Adamana (which contains the huge -trunk that spans a picturesque chasm 45 feet wide, and is known as the -Natural Bridge[65]); the Second Forest, 2½ miles further south; and the -North Forest. The last is 9 miles due north from Adamana, at the edge of -such a chaotic, burned-out bit of volcanic waste, as is in itself worth -seeing, breaking away gradually into the Painted Desert. If for any -reason, your time is too limited to admit of your visiting more than one -section of the Forest, by all means, let that section be this North -Forest. The trees are less numerous and the fragments are less -strikingly colored than in the parts to the south, but that background -of color and mystery given by the desert, lends a fascination and gives -to the picture a composition that is unique and unforgettable. - -There is, moreover, the so-called Third or Rainbow Forest,[66] 13 miles -southwest of Adamana. This region contains the most numerous and the -largest trunks, some of them (partially underground) measuring upwards -of 200 feet in length. The especially rich coloring of the wood here has -given rise to the local name "Rainbow." - -In several parts of the Petrified Forest (a large portion of which is -now, by the way, a National Monument), are the ruins of many small -prehistoric Indian villages. The relics found indicate that four -different stocks of Indians have lived among these shattered trees, one -clearly Hopi, another probably Zuñian, the others undetermined (one -apparently of cannibalistic habits). Dr. Walter Hough has written very -entertainingly of this human interest of the Petrified Forest in -Harpers' Magazine for November, 1902. The houses of the Rainbow Forest -were unique in aboriginal architecture in that they were constructed of -petrified logs. To quote Dr. Hough: "It is probable that prehistoric -builders never chose more beautiful stones for the construction of their -habitations than the trunks of the trees which flourished ages before -man appeared on the earth. This wood agate also furnished material for -stone hammers, arrowheads and knives, which are often found in ruins -hundreds of miles from the Forest."[67] - -[Illustration] - - IN THE NORTH PETRIFIED FOREST - - Near Adamana, Arizona. A glimpse of the famous Painted Desert in the - background. - -[Illustration] - - A CORNER IN SANTA FE, N. M. - - The New Mexican capital retains to this day many picturesque - features of the Spanish and Mexican dominance. - - - - - CHAPTER XI - FLAGSTAFF AS A BASE - - -A score of years ago Flagstaff[68] was chiefly known to the traveler as -the gateway to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, 70 miles to the -northwest. One may still reach that marvelous chasm by automobile from -Flagstaff, arriving at Grand View after 5 or 6 hours' driving, now -through a park-like forest of yellow pine, now across an open plateau -region with alluring views of far-off mountain ranges and of the Painted -Desert. The completion of the railroad spur from Williams to the Grand -Cañon, however, put a quietus upon the operation of the horse stages -from Flagstaff; and since the passing of the Grand Cañon business the -town has cut small figure in tourist itineraries, its energies since -being concentrated on the less precarious profits from lumber, cattle -and wool. Nevertheless, its situation in a clearing of the beautiful -Coconino National Forest, 7000 feet above the sea makes it a convenient -base for visiting certain attractions of a remarkable nature thereabout, -as lava beds, ice caves, extinct volcanoes, prehistoric cliff[69] and -cinder-cone dwellings, the Painted Desert, and the famous San Francisco -Peaks, fabled home of the Hopi Katchinas and the scene of many an Indian -legend. The town has several hotels of a modest sort, and is on the line -of the National Old Trails transcontinental motor highway; and if you -have your own car or the wherewithal to rent one in Flagstaff, you can -be very happy in this neighborhood for a week or two. The town itself, -with a population of a couple of thousand, has a certain picturesqueness -of an up-to-date frontier fashion, in which automobiles and soda-pop -largely take the place of ponies, pistols and "forty-rod," for at this -writing the hand of "bone dry" Prohibition rests paternally upon -Arizona. Especially interesting are Saturday nights, when the streets -are likely to be thronged with lumberjacks, cowpunchers and -ranchers--American and Mexican--come to town to swap news and trade, to -see the "shows," play pool and listen to the "rag" of blatant -gramophones. A Navajo or two, standing in the glare of the electric -lights, may add a touch of aboriginal color to the scene--teamsters for -some desert trading post. - -Dominating Flagstaff, as Mont Blanc dominates Chamonix, is the isolated -mountain mass, the highest in Arizona, called the San Francisco Peaks, -snow-crowned seven or eight months in the year and familiar to every -traveler by the Santa Fe's transcontinental trains. Their clustered -half-dozen summits in the form of graceful cones attain a maximum -elevation of 12,611 feet above the sea (5600 feet above Flagstaff) and -have been a famous landmark from the time of the Spanish conquistadores, -who named them, to the present day. The Navajos, as has been told in a -previous chapter, assign to the great mountain a divine construction -from earth brought up in the Emergence from the underworld, the gods who -built it pinning it down poetically with a sunbeam. Matter-of-fact -geologists, however, consider the mass as merely an extinct volcano with -its top blown off, and find its flanks covered with the congealed lava -streams of successive eruptions. The disintegrated surfaces of lava make -a fertile bed for the abundant forests, gardens of wild flowers, and -natural fields of indigenous grasses that clothe the base and sides up -to within a few hundred feet of the craggy top. If you have a taste for -mountain climbing and fine outlooks, by all means give a day or two to -the San Francisco Mountain. It is of easiest ascent, and the views, full -of delight from the moment you leave Flagstaff, attain at the summit a -climax that is nothing short of dramatic. The whole of the northern and -central Arizona plateau is spread below and about you in such glory of -color (if the atmospheric conditions be right) as you have never dreamt -of. You can pick out the farther wall of the Grand Cañon and the -Buckskin Mountains beyond; the companion volcanic cones of Kendrick, -Bill Williams,[70] and Sitgreaves to the westward; the Mogollon Mesa -stretching south towards Phoenix; the Verde Valley; the Red Rock Country -and Oak Creek Cañon; Sunset Peak;[71] and most striking of all, the -glory of the Painted Desert stretching illimitably to the northeast, -with the Little Colorado River winding across it to join the Big -Colorado 60 miles due north of you. The opportunity to enjoy that -unobscured outlook upon the desert from a point over a mile above it, is -alone a sufficient reward for the trip. It is like looking on another -world, so unearthly are the tones in which that marvelous waste is -dyed--indefinite shades of yellow, pink, crimson, brown, cream, green; -so striking the sculpturing of its mesas and promontories. Then, too, if -you have a spark of romance in your make-up, will it not be an event to -tread the very pathways of the gods with whom the Indian fancy has -peopled the glades and gorges of this hoary old volcano, as the Greeks -peopled Ida--to know that somewhere in these sunny, piny slopes is the -fabled house of the Sun God, who, when he would travel, summons a -rainbow, as you or I would ring for a taxicab, and to whom, it is said, -the Hopis still send prayer plumes by a messenger who trots the 70 miles -from the pueblos hither between sunrise and sunset of a summer day? - -Would it not give you a thrill to feel when passing through the aspen -groves that dot the upper heights, that in such a rustling wood here -upon this very mountain, when the world was young, the Hero-Children of -the Spider Woman slew the wicked Giant Elk who ravaged the land of the -Hopi--those Hero-Children of whom one was Youth, begotten of the Light, -and the other Echo, begotten of the Raindrop?[72] - -From Flagstaff to the tip of Humphrey's Peak, the highest of all, is 10 -miles in a bee-line, or about 15 as pedestrians and horses go. Of this -distance about 5 miles are by a good road practicable for automobiles, -now winding through open forest, now skirting some ranch--a pleasant, -old-fashioned highway bordered with worm fences and thickets of wild -rose and goldenrod. From a certain point on the road to the Peaks, which -are always in view, an easy trail leads through a charming forest to -which the absence of underbrush gives a park-like character, open and -sunny and carpeted in places with wild flowers. The prevailing trees for -a couple of thousand feet of the ascent are yellow pines, rising at -their best to a height of over 100 feet and probably of an age of 300 to -500 years. Above this yellow pine belt the trail steepens and zigzags -sharply bringing you out at last amid broken stone and volcanic scoriae -where no trees are, only shy sub-alpine plants clinging by their toes to -the crevices of the rocks. Here a hog-back joins Humphrey's Peak (12,611 -feet) and Agassiz (12,330 feet), and you have the choice of mounting to -either or both. Under the eastern slopes of these peaks a glacier 2 -miles long once headed, whose bed is now a large valley within the -mountain's folds dropping downward to the northeast. To the geological, -this valley with its moraine and glaciated rocks is a source of especial -interest, since it constitutes one of the southernmost instances of ice -action within the United States.[73] - -A good walker used to high altitudes can do the round trip from -Flagstaff to the summit and back in a day of 12 hours, but he should be -sure to carry water. For the average tourist, however, horseback is -recommended with a guide (procurable at Flagstaff). Added interest will -be secured by arranging to camp over night upon the mountain, for in -this way the superb light effects of early morning and evening may be -enjoyed at leisure. Owing to snow on the peaks most of the year, the -ascent must usually be made between mid-June and mid-October. June is -probably the best month, if snow is absent, as the atmosphere is then -apt to be at its clearest; after that, September or early October is the -choice. July and August are months of frequent, almost daily, -thunderstorms, which, of course, are disturbing factors in more ways -than one. Flagstaff, by the way, is credited by the United States' -Geological Survey with a greater rainfall than any other station in -Arizona, and this is attributed to its nearness to the San Francisco -Mountain. - -Should you desire a closer acquaintance with that harlequin of wastes, -the Painted Desert, there are from Flagstaff two trips you can take -across an end of it with reasonable success in a motor car. One is to -the Hopi village of Oraibi by way of Tolcheco, and the other to Tuba. -The distance in each case is about 70 miles. To Tuba there is a -semi-weekly automobile stage (with shovel and water bags strapped to -it), making the round trip usually inside of one day. It is an -interesting excursion, taking you close to Sunset Peak, with its -remarkable rosy crest, and over the Little Colorado River by a bridge -that makes the traveler independent of the sudden rises of that erratic -stream. You will pass here and there mounds that are the crumbled -remains of prehistoric pueblos, and again stone chips and bits of trunks -of petrified trees, the scattered fragments of vanished forests of which -the Petrified Forest of Adamana is our most perfect remnant. Sometimes -we pass beneath ruddy cliffs eroded and weathered into such -grotesqueness of face and figure as would make Alice out of Wonderland -feel at home, squat toads and humped camels and ogres with thick -grinning lips. Farther away, mesas jutting into the desert present the -semblance of cities with towers and ramparts in ghostly tones of pink -and yellow and cream.[74] Occasionally an auto-truck, hauling goods to -or from some desert trade-post, passes you, and sometimes a wagon train -of wool, horse-drawn, in charge of Navajo teamsters. Approaching Tuba, -you cross the Moenkopi Wash, and are refreshed with the greenery of the -farms of the Hopis, who from time immemorial have occupied this haunt of -moisture. If you have time to visit the little pueblo of Moenkopi, 2 -miles from Tuba and perched on the mesa edge overlooking the farms, it -will interest you. It is the westernmost of all the Hopi villages, its -population of a couple of hundred enjoying life in Indian fashion with -abounding dances and thanksgiving. At Tuba itself, there is not much for -the casual visitor, except a couple of Indian trading establishments and -a Government Boarding School with its concomitant buildings connected -with the Agency of the Western Navajo Reservation. The region -roundabout, however, includes enough points of local interest to occupy -a two or three weeks' vacation very pleasantly. Accommodations are -obtainable at a trader's or one of the Government houses, and saddle -horses may be hired from the Indians. Some 65 miles to the north are -certain remarkably fine pueblo- or Cliff dwelling-ruins, known as Betata -Kin and Keet Seel, in Marsh Pass.[75] - -Twenty or thirty miles south of Flagstaff is a region of unique -interest, known as the Oak Creek Valley, whither Flagstaffians motor in -season to fish for trout and enjoy a bit of Arcady. There are a public -resort or two and a number of ranches in the valley, tributary to which -is some of the wildest scenery in the Southwest. In adjacent cañons, -whose sides often rise an almost sheer 800 to 1000 feet, are the ruined -habitations of a prehistoric people (probably ancestors of certain -existing Hopi clans)--cliff houses, cavate dwellings and fortified -eminences, the last advantageously adopted by the Apaches in the wars of -half a century ago. The dominant color of the rock is bright red, -frequently in horizontal bands, and has gained the region the popular -appellation of "The Red Rock Country." The cañon walls and outstanding -rock masses have been worn by the elements into columns, minarets, -steeples, temples and other architectural semblances such as are shown -surpassingly in the Grand Cañon. Indian pictographs abound--some -prehistoric, some evidently of modern Apache doing. Dr. J. W. Fewkes, -the scientific discoverer of the region a quarter of a century ago, -thought himself justified in comparing it to the Garden of the Gods, -than which it is much more extended.[76] - - - - - CHAPTER XII - THE GRAND CAÑON OF THE COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA - - -From Williams, on the Santa Fe's transcontinental line, a branch runs -due north across 65 miles of the great Colorado Plateau and lands the -traveler at the very rim of the Grand Cañon--one of the most enjoyable, -most novel, most awakening sights among the Southwest's marvels. Even if -your arrival be at darkest midnight, you will _feel_ the nearness of -that awful void in the unseen--a strange and humbling experience. For -accommodations you have the choice of American plan and what passes in -the wilderness for luxury at the big El Továr Hotel,[77] or of lodging -yourself more economically but comfortably enough in cabin or tent at -the nearby Bright Angel Camp with meals _á la carte_ at the Harvey Café. -Then you will want to know what to see. - -The Grand Cañon is among those stupendous natural wonders that the -traveler needs time to adjust himself to; and I am inclined to believe -that his first act in wisdom is to sit down at the rim with a -comprehensive map before him and spend a leisurely hour studying -geography. Fortunately a very good practical map is included in the -Santa Fe's folder that describes the Cañon, and this may be had of any -agent for the asking. The names, taken from all sorts of mythologies and -philosophies--Hindu, Chinese, Norse, British, Greek, Egyptian, with a -dash of Aztec and latter day American--and given to the various -prominent shapes simulating temples, pagodas, castles, towers, -colonnades and what not, are rather bewildering and indeed seem out of -place in mid-Arizona. In better taste, I think, are the more simply -named spots that commemorate adjacent native tribes as Hopi, Walapai, -Zuñi; old white dwellers by the rim like Bass, Rowe and Hance; and -explorers associated with the Cañon, such as Powell, Escalante and -Cárdenas. Cárdenas, it may not be amiss to state, was the officer -dispatched by Coronado from Zuñi to learn the truth about the great -gorge and river, the report of which Tovar had brought him from the -Hopis. It was Cárdenas and his little company of a dozen soldiers, who, -one autumn day of 1540, were the first white men to look into the mighty -chasm. At the bottom they could detect the great river flowing, -seemingly a mere thread of a rivulet; but their attempts to reach it -were fruitless, so precipitous they found the Cañon walls.[78] The -stream that first received the name of Colorado, is the one we now call -Little Colorado. Oñate dubbed it so--Spanish for red--because of the -color of its turbid waters. The greater river in Cárdenas's day was -known as _el Rio del Tizón_, the river of the Fire-brand--a name given -it by explorers of its lower waters because of certain Indians on its -bank whom the Spaniards saw warming themselves with brands taken from -the fire. The Colorado River as we now know it, and including its -tributaries the Grand and the Green, drains a region only secondary to -the basin of the Mississippi. Its length from the headwaters of the -Green in Wyoming to the outlet into the Gulf of California is about 2000 -miles. The Grand Cañon (including 65 miles above the junction with the -Little Colorado and known as Marble Cañon) is 283 miles in length, the -walls varying from 3000 to nearly 6000 feet high and rising from the -river in a series of huge steps or terraces, so that the width, which at -the river is from about 100 to 600 feet, increases to several miles at -the rim. The deepest part of the chasm is near the hotels, and the river -there flows over a mile below them.[79] The Cañon walls are the delight -of geologists, who find there in orderly arrangement (stratum upon -stratum in banded colors) the deposits of the successive ages of the -earth from the archaean granite to the lava flows of recent geologic -time. A succinct and readable account of the geological features of the -Cañon will be found in the United States Geological Survey's admirable -Guide Book of the Western United States, Part C--a book of especial -value to the car-window observer on the Santa Fe route. - -Trains to the Cañon are arranged so that travelers may reach it in the -early morning and leave the same evening. In a way this is unfortunate, -for it offers a temptation, almost irresistible to an American tourist, -to "do" the place in a day and go on to some other sight. Of course no -one _can_ do it in a day, but he can do certain things, and he can get a -notion of the general scheme. Three days at least would best be planned -for, and of course more still would be better. The principal features -that should not be missed, may be summed up as follows: A horseback trip -down into the Cañon by either Bright Angel Trail or the Hermit Trail; -the drive (15 miles the round) over the Hermit Rim road; the auto trip -(26 miles the round) to Grand View Point. There are, moreover, several -short drives of four or five miles by public coach to vantage points -along the rim, costing a dollar or two per passenger; and of course -walks innumerable, among which that to Hopi Point, about 2 miles -northwest from the railway terminus, is particularly to be recommended -for its sunset view of the Cañon. Another pleasant short rim walk is to -Yavapai Point, 1½ miles to the eastward. From both these points the view -is superb. - -The trip down the Bright Angel[80] trail to the river and back is an all -day jaunt. To the tenderfoot it is a somewhat harrowing experience to be -borne downward at an angle of 45 degrees more or less on the back of a -wobbling animal, whose head at times hangs over eternity, and whose only -footing is on a narrow shelf scratched out of a precipitous wall of the -Cañon. However, as nothing tragical happens, and as there is no escape -once you are started on the _descensus Averni_, you soon find enjoyment -in the novel trip, zigzagging ever downward through successive geologic -ages marked by rock strata in white, red, brown and blue. - -Something over half way down there is a grateful let-up, when the trail -runs out upon a plateau watered by a musical little brook. This place is -known as "The Indian Garden." It is enclosed on three sides by lofty -reddish walls, and here some Havasupai Indians are said to have had in -comparatively recent times a village, and to have cultivated the land. -Long before them, however, _en el tiempo de cuanto ha_, as the Pueblo -story tellers say in poetic Spanish ("in the time of how long ago"), -another race must have tilled the same soil, as the near-by cliffs -maintain numerous remains of rock dwellings and other evidences of human -occupancy. It is a pleasant, flowery, romantic spot, this Indian Garden, -in the Cañon's crimson heart, with its fascinating environment of rock -sculpturings that seem the towers, palaces and temples of an enchanted -city awaiting the lifting of a spell. At the plateau's outer edge you -have a stupendous view of the colossal gorge and the muddy torrent of -the river, leaping and roaring 1300 feet below. You may make the Indian -Garden the limit of your descent, or you may continue to the river -itself, corkscrewing down among the crevices and rockbound ways and -echoes of the inexorable wall until you come out upon a little beach, -past which, more terrible than beautiful, the savage torrent thunders -and cascades and tears its course to freedom. You will be glad to get -into the blessed upper world again, but you would not have missed the -experience for a greater cost of clambering. - -The Hermit Rim road is a first-class modern highway (so far barred, -thank heaven, to automobiles), extending about 7½ miles westward from El -Tovar by way of Hopi Point to the Hermit Basin. Part of it passes -through beautiful stretches of park-like forest, emerging upon the dizzy -brink of the Cañon with magnificent outlooks over chasm and river to -distant mountains and cloud-piled sky. If you enjoy walking, it is -pleasant to do this trip one way in the public coach and the other afoot -by way of Rowe's Well. The Hermit Rim Road ends at the head of a -comparatively new trail to the river, a sort of trail _de luxe_, 4 feet -wide and protected by a stone wall very reassuring to the apprehensive. -As on the Bright Angel trail, there is a plateau midway. Here a public -camp is maintained, where accommodations for an over-night stay may be -had. From this camp to the river must be done afoot--an easy grade, it -is said, but I cannot speak from personal knowledge. There is a trail -connecting the lower portions of Hermit and Bright Angel trails, so that -one may go to the river by one route and return by the other. This -consumes 3 days ordinarily, and must be taken as a camping trip with its -concomitant ups and downs. It is hardly to be recommended to any but the -reasonably robust--and good natured! - -Grand View Point, 13 miles east of El Tovar--a beautiful drive that may -be done by motor car through the Coconino Forest--is the terminus of the -old-time stage route from Flagstaff. The view at the point is perhaps -the finest of all--quite different from that at El Tovar and more -extended: owing to the greater width between the main walls of the -Cañon; to the fact that the river here makes a sharp turn to the north; -and the further fact that the relative lowness of the eastern wall of -the bend opens up a vista towards the desert, which at El Tovar is -hidden. The Grand View round trip with a look-around at Grand View Point -may be done in half a day from El Tovar, but if one can afford to give a -day or two to it, the material is here to be worth the extra time. Here -is a hotel to care for you. Particularly of interest is the trail to -Moran Point, some half dozen miles to the east, an exquisite outlook and -the view point of Thomas Moran's famous picture of the Cañon which -occupies a place in the Capitol at Washington. There is a trail down to -the river from Grand View Point, and another by way of Red Cañon, -heading a little to the west of Moran Point. A connecting trail at the -bottom of the Cañon makes it possible to descend by one trail and return -by the other, if one goes prepared to camp by the river. There are, by -the way, several varieties of fish in the Colorado, one, the so-called -Colorado salmon,[81] being a good table fish, though the catching -involves no sport, as it is not gamey. - -The Grand Cañon may be visited at any season, though in winter there is -often snow upon the rim and upper levels. Usually there is not enough to -interfere seriously with reaching the various points of interest; and as -one descends into the gorge, one soon passes out of wintry into warmer -and still warmer conditions. Even in December some flowers will be -blooming in the bottom of the Cañon. July and August constitute the -usual summer rainy season, when frequent thunderstorms are to be -expected, particularly in the afternoons. They are usually of short -duration. The atmospheric effects accompanying and succeeding them are -often magnificent.[82] - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - MONTEZUMA'S CASTLE AND WELL, WHICH MONTEZUMA NEVER SAW - - -If you happen never to have speculated in copper or archaeology and are -not a Southwesterner, it is quite likely that you have not heard of the -Verde Valley. It is a somewhat sinuous cleft up and down the very center -of Arizona, holding in its heart the Verde River (_el Rio Verde_, or -Green River, of the Spaniards) which has its source under the San -Francisco Peaks, and after 150 miles or so through cramped cañons and -sunny bottomlands of more or less fertility, joins the Salt River about -50 miles east of the latter's junction with the Gila. On the western -edge of its upper reaches are the smelter towns of Clarkdale and -Jerome,[83] and the famous copper mines of the United Verde Company. -Across the valley from these, to the eastward and bordering the great -Mogollon Mesa that divides the basin of the Little Colorado and the -Gila, is that Red Rock country referred to in a previous chapter, -together with the Verde's beautiful tributary, Oak Creek; while some 30 -miles to the south there enters the Verde another stream called Beaver -Creek. It is upon the latter the scene of this present chapter is laid. - -[Illustration] - - OLD GOVERNOR'S PALACE, SANTA FE, N. M. - - The center for three centuries of the political life of New Mexico, - under the successive regimes of Spaniard, Indian, Mexican and - American. - -[Illustration] - - MONTEZUMA'S CASTLE - - Near Camp Verde, Arizona. A beautiful specimen of prehistoric Cliff - architecture, with which, however, Montezuma had nothing to do. - -Today the valley of the Verde maintains but a sparse population. Here -and there is a white man's hamlet; here and there are wickiups of the -now peaceable Apaches; and where, between the cliffs that wall in much -of the valley, there is level land enough to make farming operations -possible, there are scattering ranches strung along. Time was, however, -when the valley was the home of an abounding aboriginal population. How -long ago that was no one knows, further than that it was before--and -probably long before--the 16th century Spaniards discovered the Upper -Verde and reported silver outcroppings there. The bordering cliffs and -hilltops are dotted and honeycombed with the ruins of pueblos, stone -fortresses and cave dwellings to an extent that has made the region -unusually attractive to the archaeologists. Two of these prehistoric -remains on Beaver Creek hold especial interest also for the lay -traveler. They are the so-called Casa Montezuma, or Montezuma's Castle, -and Montezuma's Well. The former, a strikingly fine example of a cliff -ruin as imposing in its way as a castle on the Rhine, has been made a -National Monument and is under such protection of the United States -government as goes with a printed notice tacked upon a tree nearby, for -there is no resident guardian. The Well is upon a private ranch 8 miles -north of the Castle. It need hardly be said that Montezuma, whose name -is popularly joined to both, had nothing whatever to do with either; nor -indeed had any Aztec, though people who get their ancient history from -newspapers, will tell you that the ruins are of Aztec construction. Both -Castle and Well are close to the Arizona State Highway, and may be -reached by a 50 or 60 mile drive from Flagstaff, or half that from -Jerome. Another way to reach them is from Prescott by automobile livery. -Yet another is by rail from Prescott to Cherry Creek (Dewey Postoffice) -on the Crown King branch of the Santa Fe, and then by auto-stage through -the picturesque Cherry Creek Cañon 32 miles to Campe Verde on the Verde -River. Campe Verde was formerly an army post of importance during the -Apache wars, but is now peaceful enough for the most pacific, -maintaining a hotel, a garage, a barber shop, an ice-cream and soda-pop -saloon, a store or two, and similar amenities of 20th century living as -delightful as unexpected in this out-of-the-way corner of our country. - -And I think here is as good a place as any to say a word about the -modern Southwestern mail stage. It is, of course, motor-driven in this -mechanical age, and lacks the peculiar dash and picturesqueness of the -4- and 6-horse vehicles of other days. Nevertheless, much of the charm -that enveloped western stage travel then clings to the modern -auto-stage. There is the same immersion in glorious, wild scenery; the -same thrill of excitement as you spin down mountain grades and around -curves with a cañon yawning hungrily beside you; the same exhilaration -of association with fellow passengers of types foreign to Broadway or La -Salle Street; many times there is the same driver, who, surrendering the -ribbon for a steering wheel, has not at all changed his nature. The seat -beside him is still the premium place, and if he takes a fancy to you, -he will exude information, anecdote and picturesque fiction as freely as -a spring its refreshing waters. To travel a bit by stage, when occasion -offers, gives a flavor to your Southwestern outing that you will be -sorry to have missed. Besides, it sometimes saves you money and time. - -From Camp Verde to Montezuma's Castle is a pleasant 3 mile jaunt. Of -course you may miss the trail, as I did, and walk six, but if you keep -close to Beaver Creek, with a sharp eye ahead, you can detect the ruin -from nearly a mile away, snugly ensconced high up in a niche of a pale -cliff, overlooking the valley. It is a comparatively small ruin, but -there is a charm in its very compactness. And there is the charm, too, -of color, the general tone of the buildings being pink set in a framing -of white. The base is about 75 feet above the level of the creek that -flows at the foot of the cliff--flows, that is, when water happens to be -in it, which is not always. The structure itself is perhaps 30 feet -high, with substantial squared walls of masonry, and is in 5 stories, -access from one to another being either by openings in the ceilings or -by modern ladders fastened against the outside walls. How the ancients -managed the ascent from the ground, there is none to tell us. An -interesting feature is a bowed parapet or battlement (the height of -one's shoulder), which surmounts the fourth story, and from below hides -the fifth story rooms which are placed well back against the innermost -part of the cliff recess and roofed by its overhang. Be sure you climb -to that battlemented upper story (it will be no easy job, for you have -to swing yourself up to it through the ceiling of the fourth), and -leaning upon the parapet, enjoy the solitude that stretches before -you--from the sycamores lining Beaver Creek at the cliff's foot, across -the mesquite-dotted mesa, and the green bottomlands of the Verde to the -long purple range of the Black Hills in the dim southwest. If any sound -there be, it is the whisper of the wind in the trees far below, or the -cooing of the wild doves, which haunt the place. So do bats, and a -certain queer acidulous smell that pervades the rooms is attributable to -them. As you walk about, your feet stir up the dust of ages. Here and -there on the mud-plastered walls are human finger prints dried in the -material when it was laid on by prehistoric hands. In some of the rooms, -particularly in certain cave dwellings (which, following the natural -ledges, you will find scooped out of the tufa cliff beside the Castle), -the ceiling and walls are blackened still with soot from the smoke of -pre-Columbian fires. You may pick up bits of pottery, as you stroll, -corn-cobs wizened of the ages, broken metates, or malpais rubbing -stones, mute reminders of the human drama once enacted here. The airy -battlement is pierced with downward-pointing loopholes through which -arrows were doubtless shot at foes below. It is this abounding and -evident human touch, this mystery of a long vanished human life, that -lends to Southwestern travel a unique fascination, reaching to something -in us that is not awakened by purely natural aspects more sublime but -disassociated from man. In spite of the fact that men will kill one -another, mistreat, enslave and exploit one another, men never lose a -supreme interest in men; stronger than all is the yearning of the human -heart for other human hearts. Is it love outwearing love's antithesis? - -Montezuma's Well is 8 miles further up Beaver Creek, and is reached by a -public highway quite practicable for automobiles when the fords of the -creek are not running high water. You pass a ranch every mile or so, and -the Well itself is found to be situated inside the wire fences of one. -After the hospitable and unexacting solitude of Montezuma's Castle, you -will experience a bit of a shock, perhaps, at the fences and in finding -that a fee of half a dollar is imposed for entrance to the Well. -Nevertheless the sight is worth the money. Proceeding from the ranch -house across an eighth of a mile of open, treeless mesa, you come quite -without warning, to a crater-like[84] opening 500 feet across, yawning -at your feet. Its walls drop almost perpendicularly some 60 feet or more -to a round pool of clear water steel blue, except around the margins, -where accumulations of pondweed give it a brown tinge. There is a -precipitous, stony trail down which you may pick your way to the water's -edge; and there, as in the bottom of a colossal mush-bowl, you are hid -from the world and the world from you. Catclaw and wild grape, hackberry -and wild walnut and salt-bush make a scrubby cover roundabout, with -datura and cleome and blooming wild tobacco adding a flower-touch. There -is here as at Montezuma's Castle a peculiar sense of loneliness and -silence--broken only by an occasional bird note, or the hum of vagabond -bees. In the clear, still waters of the pool are reflections of the -cliffs, and raising your eyes to them you recognize in the southern side -a few squat little stone houses wedged in between the strata of the rock -walls. You can, if you choose, easily climb to some of them, and -stooping through the small doorways get a taste of what it was like to -be a cliff dweller. At the north end of the pond there is a thicket of -willows and cottonwoods, and there the waters find their exit by an -underground passage that would lead them into Beaver Creek (which flows -beyond the hill) were it not that they are diverted to irrigate the -ranch lands. Near this place of disappearance, is a very interesting -feature of the Well--a series of natural caverns reaching far back under -the hill, forming an irregular dwelling of many rooms, with occasional -bits of built-in wall of mud-plastered stone. Upon such a wall at the -very entrance of the cavern is the tiny imprint of a child's hand, left -we must suppose, by some prehistoric toddler steadying itself--how many, -many centuries ago, who can tell?--against the freshly plastered -surface, just as a baby, uncertain of its feet, would do to-day. At the -time Mr. Chas. F. Lummis wrote his fascinating volume, "Some Strange -Corners of our Country," and described Montezuma's Castle and Well, the -precious imprint was perfect; but some witless latter-day visitor has -pecked out the palm with his vandal jack-knife, destroying in a moment -what Time, the arch-destroyer, had respected for centuries. Still the -marks of the baby fingers were left when I visited the place a year ago -and I hope still are, to link the fancy tenderly with that ancient -people, our elder brethren. - -The proprietor of the Well, Mr. W. B. Back, will guide you about and -light you into the cavern's recesses, piloting you with a lantern -through passages so low and narrow at times that you must go almost on -hands and knees until he brings you, far within, into a spacious and -utterly dark rock-chamber with a stream of living water coursing -musically through it, where further investigation is barred. He will -also transport you in an anachronous row-boat across the bosom of the -Well. It seems the soundings deepen suddenly from 80 feet at the outer -part to 500 feet and no bottom at the center. There the water rises as -in a funnel from its unknown source. At the outlet beyond the hill the -waters gush from beneath a high, darkling cliff in an impetuous stream -that varies little in volume throughout the year, the measurement being -about 112 miner's inches. Your guide takes you there, too (passing on -the way the ruins of an ancient pueblo that once occupied the mesa near -the Well's edge), and you will enjoy the sight of that brisk little -torrent fringed with a riot of maiden-hair fern and columbine, and -darkened by the shadows from huge sycamores that foregather about it. -The ancient Well-dweller, knew perfectly the value of that water and led -it by ditches, the remains of which you may yet see, to irrigate their -corn- and bean-fields a mile away. Apaches, who within recent years have -been the only Indians dwelling in the region, profess no knowledge of -the people who built the houses here. Mr. Back (who, by the way, in 1889 -filed as a homesteader on the land about the Well including the Well -itself as a water right) informed me that the Apaches regard the place -with disfavor. "_Aqua no 'ueno_," one old man told him, "water no good. -Long time ago, you _sabe_, three Indian _mujeres_ all same women, you -_sabe_, she swim out in water, and go round and round, you _sabe_, in -the middle, and by 'em by, she go down, all three. Never come back. No, -no--_no 'ueno_." The water is warmish, but quite drinkable--if you can -forget about those Apache ladies who are still in it. - -It would seem reasonable that so remarkable a natural phenomenon as is -the Well, situated in a region as populous with aborigines as the Verde -Valley once was, would have a place in Indian folk lore; and as a matter -of fact Dr. J. W. Fewkes[85] has learned that the Hopis know of its -existence, and claim it as the home of some of their ancestors. -Moreover, the tales of some of their old men indicate that they regard -the place as the house of the Plumed Serpent, a divinity peculiarly dear -to the desert dwelling Hopis of today, as the guardian of the waters and -springs. Indeed, it is, perhaps, as a shrine of the divine that the Well -is most truly to be considered; and in view of the extensive pueblo that -once flourished on the rim, it may be that the houses of the Well walls -were used in connection with religious observances rather than as a -habitation of the common people. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - SAN ANTONIO - - -If you are a Southwesterner, born or naturalized, returning from a visit -"back East," your spirits rise with a jump when the trainmen call out -"San Antone!" For this is the frontier of your own dear country, and you -feel the thrill that goes with getting home again and being among your -own people. Dusty and a bit down at the heel in spots is San Antonio, -you think? Yes, son, but it is picturesque; and there are adobes and -Mexicans, Stetson hats and cart-wheel dollars once more, and it is where -the Southwest begins, if you are westbound on the S. P. - -San Antonio more than anywhere else in Texas has an Old World -atmosphere. The former Spanish capital of the province, there are parts -of it that impart to the visitor much the same feeling that Monterey, -that other Spanish capital, gives him in California--the feeling that -_may be_ this is the United States, but it needs to be demonstrated. Of -course, being a city of 100,000 people and commercially important, it -has its well-groomed, American side, but unless you are in San Antonio -merely in quest of health and comfort,[86] it is not that spick-and-span -side that appeals to your traveler's taste. You will prefer those -streets, irregular and even unpaved (often their Spanish names still -clinging to them), of the older quarters, where cracked one-storied -adobes in open sunshine, elbow stately old tree-embowered mansions, -whose tangled gardens seem to hide in their unkempt corners untold -romances. You will like the Mexican quarter with its queer little shops, -and the market square with its picturesque crowds of swarthy _peones_, -donkeys and country teams of odd sorts, its squatting street venders of -_tortillas_, cakes, _dulces_, songbooks, religious pictures and -shoe-strings. You will like, too, the bridges over the little river that -winds cosily about through the midst of the town, and the waterside -lawns where trees cast a comfortable shade and summer houses invite to -tea _al fresco_. There are literally dozens of those bridges, with -railings at a convenient height to lean your elbows on and dream away an -idle half-hour. Moreover, you will like the many charming parks and -plazas, where you may sit under a palm tree and enjoy the passing tide -of open-air life and make more acquaintances in half an hour than you -would in New York in a year. - -The Main Plaza is dominated by the cathedral of San Fernando, which -dates from 1738, though little of the original structure remains--most -of the present building having been constructed about half a century -ago. What is left of the original church is in the rear, backing on -another and larger square, the old _Plaza de Armas_, or Military Plaza -as it is now called. - -Modern San Antonio has risen out of the consolidation of the presidio of -San Antonio de Béjar, the Mission of Antonio de Valero (both mission and -presidio founded in 1718) and the _villa_--a form of Spanish -municipality--of San Fernando, founded in 1730. The Mission, after -abandonment as a religious institution, was turned into a fortress and -barracks, and acquired the name of Alamo.[87] The Church of the Mission -and what is left of the main building of the Fort are the most famous -historical buildings in the city. They face on the Alamo Plaza, and are -of such unique interest as to draw, in themselves, many visitors to San -Antonio; for they are in a sense to Texas what Faneuil Hall is to New -England, the cradle of its liberty. Late in 1835, when Texas was still a -part of Mexico, San Antonio was stormed and captured by a band of -insurgent American-Texans under the leadership of "Old Ben" Milam, who -was killed in the fight. (You will see his statue in Milam Square, if -you are interested enough to look it up). The Alamo, which was well -outside the San Antonio of those days, was surrendered with the city. -Here the Texans later entrenched themselves, and in February and March -of the following year were besieged for 12 days by 4000 Mexicans under -General Santa Ana. Of the Texans, there were less than 200, including -some women and children. Refusing to surrender, every man of them was -killed in the final assault upon the place, the only survivors -(according to H. H. Bancroft) being 3 women, 2 children and one negro -boy servant. "Remember the Alamo" became the war-cry of the Texans in -the subsequent struggle that ended in the independence of the province. - -The little Alamo Church and part of the main building that we see -to-day, form only a small portion of the establishment that existed in -1836 and was occupied by the Texan defenders. Besides this church part -(now maintained as a public monument) there was the large two-story -_convento_-fortress divided into rooms and used as armory and barracks, -part of which now exists and is cared for by the State of Texas; also a -prison building and courtyard; the whole covering between 2 and 3 acres. -Prominent among the Alamo defenders was that picturesque character and -popular Southwestern hero, Davy Crockett. Another was James Bowie, to -whom many authorities attribute the invention of the famous knife that -bears the Bowie name, but Bancroft says it was Rezin Bowie, a brother of -James, who originated it. These and others of the participants in the -Texan war of independence are commemorated in the names of streets, -parks and public houses throughout the city. As for the Alamo, it is -bait in all sorts of business ventures--giving name to saloons, -suspenders, grocery stores, restaurants, lodging houses and what not. - -Next to the Alamo, the sightseer (unless an enthusiasm for matters -military takes him straight to San Antonio's famous army post, Sam -Houston), will find worth while a visit to the old Franciscan Missions, -now in ruins, that are strung along the San Antonio River to the south -of the city. There are four of these, the first about 2 miles from the -Alamo, the rest at similar intervals of a couple of miles. Americans -have got in the way of calling them, in numerical fashion, First, -Second, Third and Fourth Missions, respectively, to the neglect of their -fine old Spanish names. The First, which is on the southern outskirts of -the city, and may be reached by a moderate walk from a street car line, -is the Mission _Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepcion de Acuña_ (Our -Lady of the Immaculate Conception, of Acuña). From quite a distance one -catches sight of its twin square towers with pyramidal tops and its high -dome peeping above a tangle of mesquite, chinnaberry and pecan trees, -and sprawling juisache bushes. A Mexican family lives in an end of the -ruined _convento_ part, and a small fee is charged for showing the -inside of the church and permitting you to climb the belfry for a fine -view over the country. The façade is interesting with much curious -sculpturing. The knotted cord of St. Francis winds above the austere -polygonal "arch" of the doorway, upon which is this Spanish inscription: -_A su patrono y princessa con estas armas atiende esta mission y -defiende el_ _punto de su pureza_. (With these arms this Mission attends -her Patroness and Princess and defends the state of her immaculateness.) -This is an obvious allusion to the controversy long maintained among -old-time theologians concerning the dogma of the Virgin Mary's -immaculate conception--a doctrine defended and preached by the -Franciscans from the first. In the corners immediately above the arch -are two medallions, the one bearing an unusual form of the Franciscan -Order's coat-of-arms--the Saviour's naked arm and the sleeved arm of St. -Francis nailed together to the Cross; the other carved in the semblance -of five blood-drops, to symbolize perhaps the stigmata of St. Francis. -Upon the keystone is another elaborate embellishment now much worn by -the elements. The central figure of this is plainly representative of -the consecrated elements in the Lord's Supper--a slender Spanish chalice -surmounted by the Sacred Host. Worn figures at the sides of the chalice -may have represented clouds or adoring angels. The whole carving of the -keystone obviously typifies the Church's missionary purpose. The front -was once gaily frescoed in red, yellow, blue and orange; but Time's -remorseless hand has fallen heavily on that. Begun in 1731, the building -was not completed until 1752. After Mexican independence from Spain was -accomplished, this Mission as well as the others, was abandoned and was -not infrequently used by both Mexican and United States troops for -barracks and stables. Some 30 years ago Bishop Neraz of San Antonio had -La Purísima Concepcion cleared of rubbish and re-dedicated to Our Lady -of Lourdes.[88] - -[Illustration] - - SAN JOSÉ DE AGUAYO - - The sculptured window of this old Franciscan Mission near San - Antonio, Texas, is widely famed for its refined beauty. - -[Illustration] - - SAN XAVIER DEL BAC, ARIZONA. - - Though largely restored, this survival of early 17th-century - missionary effort, is one of the most interesting antiquities of its - class in the United States. - -The Second Mission, properly called San José de Aguayo, was the first -founded of the four, dating from 1720. It was 11 years a-building, and -the date of its completion, March 5, 1731, seems to have determined the -beginning of the remaining three Missions in the chain, all of which -were founded on their present sites in that same year.[89] It was in its -day the most flourishing of the Texas Missions, as, in its ruins, it is -the most beautiful. The builder indulged to the uttermost his love of -florid carving, and the broken façade of the roofless church is a marvel -of ornate sculpturing--of saints, life size or in bust, cherubs' heads -and flaming hearts, volutes and arabesques and conchoids innumerable. -But it is good sculpture and an amazing thing that it should have been -wrought to the glory of God in that wilderness of what was Northern -Mexico, near two centuries ago. Doubtless it was the work of some -artisan (I have read that his name was Juan Huisar) brought up from Old -Mexico where such ecclesiastical art was encouraged from the beginning -of the Spanish occupation; and for assistants Indians were employed. -Around the corner from this front is a window in the baptistry that -makes you exclaim for the beauty of it, so exquisite is it in its -sculptured setting, so delicate and of so simple loveliness is its -_reja_, or grating of wrought iron. And about it in the broken chinks of -crumbling masonry is a fern garden of Nature's own sowing, of a sort -that thrives in the sunshine and aridity of the Southwest and nowhere -else, a species that botanists call _Notholaena sinuata_. The Mission is -quite abandoned now save for an occasional service at a modest little -altar in one room. A neighboring Mexican family has the key and supplies -a guide. - -These two Missions are usually all the hurrying tourist sees; but an -hour more, if you are in an automobile, is enough to afford a glance at -the other two, which, if less interesting, are still a pleasant -adventure. The Third (6 miles from San Antonio) is Mission _San Juan -Capistrano_ (Saint John of Capistrano, in Italy), and the Fourth is _San -Francisco de la Espada_ (Saint Francis of the Sword). The last has -undergone some restoration to fit it for the resident priest, who -ministers to a Mexican flock quartered roundabout. The entire round of -the Missions can be easily done by motor car in half a day; but take a -day to it, if you can spare the time, picnic somewhere by the river, and -do the beautiful old places with leisure and reverence. Surely one can -do worse things, to quote Sidney Lanier, "than to steal out here from -town ... and dream back the century and a half of strange, lonesome, -devout, hymn-haunted and Indian-haunted years that have trailed past -these walls." - -Annually during the last week of April, there is held in San Antonio an -open air carnival called the Fiesta San Jacinto. The name commemorates -the decisive battle of San Jacinto, fought April 21, 1836, between -Mexicans and Texans, and ending the War of Texan Independence. Elaborate -celebrations mark the festival, which is almost as well known in the -Southwest as the New Orleans Mardi Gras. - - NOTE: Readers interested in particulars of the history of the San - Antonio Missions will be repaid by consulting the valuable work of - Miss Adina DeZavala, entitled: "History and Legends of The Alamo and - Other Missions in and Around San Antonio." - - - - - CHAPTER XV - IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GIANT CACTUS - - -There are two Arizonas. There is that wide, breezy plateau region of the -north, a mile and more above sea level, where our travels so far have -been; and there is the much lower desert region of the south slanting -downward from the Gila River to Sonoran Mexico, from which country there -is little to distinguish it physically. This desert region, known to the -Spaniards as Pimería Alta (that is, the upper country of the Pima -Indians), was the only portion of what was afterwards called Arizona to -possess a white population until several years after our Mexican War. -The tourist to-day penetrates it in two general ways. Near the Mexican -frontier the Southern Pacific transcontinental line traverses it, -passing through Yuma and Tucson and reaching up to Phoenix by a branch -from Maricopa. From the north a branch of the Santa Fe system runs -southward from Ash Fork through Prescott directly to Phoenix. - -Phoenix is the State capital, a very modern little city dating from -1817, with a population of perhaps 20,000. There is a touch of poetry in -the name, which was given to symbolize the rising of a new civilization -from the ashes of that prehistoric culture the evidences of whose -existence cover so much of Southern Arizona. Here, where 50 years ago -was pure desert lorded over by the giant Sahuaro--that huge tree-cactus -which is Arizona's State emblem--we find today surrounding Phoenix a -pleasant land of ranches watered by full irrigation canals flowing in -the shade of palms and cottonwoods, where besides the common staples of -potatoes, corn and alfalfa, there is the exotic grace of the orange and -the fig, the olive, the date and the apricot. This is the valley of the -Salt River, whose waters are impounded by the huge Roosevelt Dam, some -80 miles east of Phoenix. Travelers desirous of studying desert -reclamation will find Phoenix a good center for their observations. - -If you value your personal comfort, the time to visit Phoenix is between -November and May. During the rest of the year the weather normally is -remorselessly hot to the unacclimated. My own acquaintance with the city -began in August. In a hazy way I had noticed something unaccustomed -about the look of the population, the men particularly, but failed to -analyze it until a sociable street car conductor remarked to me, -"Stranger here?" "Yes," said I, "my first day." "We always know -strangers right away," he continued. "You see, they wear their coats." -Then I took a fresh look around and though it was a fairly crowded -street, I failed to see a man who was not in his shirt sleeves. The -winter and early spring, however, are delicious with the peculiar purity -and dryness of the desert air to which a touch of frost at night may -give added vitality. - -That interesting 120 mile automobile highway called the Apache Trail -finds at Phoenix its western terminus. Its eastern end is at Globe, a -mining town on modern lines in the center of a rich copper district.[90] -This point is connected by rail with Bowie, 124 miles distant, on the -Southern Pacific Railway. Transcontinental travelers by this route, -either east- or west-bound, are now given the opportunity of varying -their trip by taking this motor drive over the Apache Trail, linking up -with the train again at the point of ending. The feature of the motor -trip, which consumed 9 to 12 hours, is the chance it yields the traveler -to get a more intimate acquaintance with the Arizona countryside than is -possible from a car window. Mines and cattle ranges, stupendous cañons, -strange rock-sculpturings in glowing colors, the desert with its -entrancing vistas, its grotesque and often beautiful plant-life, even a -glimpse of prehistoric ruins--all this the drive affords; and to it is -added the impressive sight of the Roosevelt Dam with its beautiful, -winding driveway upon the breast and its exhibition of man-made -waterfalls and 30-mile lake, an unoffended Nature looking indulgently -down from surrounding precipices and mountain crests and seeming to say, -"Son, not so bad." There is a hotel at the Dam, on a promontory -overlooking the water--and in the water bass and "salmon" are said to -be. A stop-over here is necessary if you wish to visit the Cliff -Dwellings, 5 miles to the eastward, officially known as the Tonto -National Monument. - -The Apache Trail detour cuts the traveler out of stopping off at one of -the most interesting little cities of the Southwest--Tucson.[91] It may -be that not all will find this oasis town, lapped in the desert and girt -about with low mountains, as much to their liking as I do, but I believe -it possesses features worth going back on one's tracks to see; for it -has a decided character of its own. With an out-and-out modern American -side, there is the grace of an historic past, whose outward and visible -sign is a picturesque Spanish quarter in adobe, pink, blue and glaring -white, clustering about a sleepy old plaza and trailing off through a -fringe of Indian _ranchería_ to the blazing desert. The region -roundabout is associated with pretty much all the history that Arizona -had until it became part of the United States. The Santa Cruz Valley, in -which Tucson lies, was a highway of travel during three centuries -between Old Mexico and the Spanish settlements and Missions of Pimería -Alta. Through this valley or the neighboring one of San Pedro (there is -a difference of opinion on this point), Brother Marcos de Niza, the -first white man to put foot in Arizona, must have passed in 1539 on his -way to Zuñi's Seven Cities; and this way, the following year, came -Coronado upon the expedition that made of New Mexico a province of -Spain. A century later the region was the scene of the spiritual labors -of Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino, a devoted Jesuit missionary to the -Indians--a man of mark in his time, to whom is credited the founding of -the Spanish Mission San Francisco Xavier del Bac, about 9 miles south of -Tucson. The present beautiful structure, however (Tucson's crack sight -for tourists), was not erected until long after Padre Kino's day. - -San Xavier is, in itself, worth a stop-over at Tucson. You may make the -round trip from the railway station in a couple of hours by automobile, -getting en route a taste of genuine desert scenery, with its scattered -covering of creosote bush, mesquite, cat's claw, ocotillo and sahuaro. -The Mission building is one of the most beautiful examples of Spanish -ecclesiastical architecture in our country; and the pure white -structure, lonely in the desert, its glistening walls and stately towers -and dome silhouetted against a sapphire sky, makes a striking sight, -oriental in its suggestion. The church part is still used for religious -services, and other portions form the residence of Sisters of a Catholic -order who conduct a school for the children of the Papago Indians. The -primitive habitations of the latter, scattered about within easy access -of the Mission, are the Mission's only near neighbors. A small fee -admits one to the church. A feature of interest at the front is the -coat-of-arms in relief of the Order of Saint Francis of Assisi.[92] This -is evidence enough that the present structure, which was begun in 1783 -and finished in 1797, was erected by Franciscans, although, as already -stated, the Mission itself was founded about a century previously by -Jesuits. In 1768 and for ten succeeding years, the resident missionary -at San Xavier was Padre Francisco Garcés, one of the most remarkable -characters in the Southwest's history. An enthusiastic young priest in -his early thirties when he came to San Xavier, and possessed of a -powerful physique, he journeyed on foot up and down the valleys of the -Gila and the Colorado (even penetrating into California and to the Hopi -village of Oraibi), tirelessly searching out Indians, and preaching to -them Christ and the gospel of reconciliation. He was indeed the original -Christian Pacifist of the Southwest, urging upon the Indian tribes -everywhere that they should settle their differences peaceably and live -together as brothers. To prove his faith he would never suffer a -military escort to accompany him in his wilderness pioneering, but took -only an Indian companion or two as interpreter, and a mule to carry his -ecclesiastical impedimenta. Neither would he bear any weapon for -defense, but went "equipped only with charity and apostolic zeal."[93] -His kindly, joyous character, so endeared him to the aborigines, that, -as he himself records, a village would often refuse to supply him a -guide to the next tribe, wanting to keep him for themselves. Under such -circumstances, he would set out alone. He was a rare puzzle to those -barbarians, both because they found it difficult to decide whether in -his long gown and clean-shaven face he was man or woman, and because he -strangely wanted nothing of them but the chance to give them a free -passport to Heaven--an inexplicable sort of white man, indeed! - -While on your Mission pilgrimage, it will be worth while to continue -southward some 50 miles more to Mission San José de Tumacácori. The road -is fairly good and about 7 hours will suffice for the round from Tucson -by automobile; or the train may be taken on the Nogales branch of the -Southern Pacific to Tubac station, whence a walk southward a couple of -miles brings you to the Mission.[94] The buildings, mostly of adobe, are -in ruins and very picturesque with a domed sanctuary and a huge square -belfry, now broken and dismantled. They and a few acres surrounding them -now form the Tumacácori National Monument, under the care of the United -States Government. This Mission in the wilderness was once, next to San -Xavier, the most important in what is now Arizona. It was established by -Jesuits in 1754, though the present church building is of Franciscan -structure of much later date, having been completed in 1822, replacing -one destroyed by the ceaselessly raiding Apaches.[95] Of interest, too, -in this vicinity, is the ancient village of Tubac, 2 miles north of -Tumacácori. Here in the 18th century was a Spanish presidio thought -needful for supplementing the preaching of the friars by the argument of -the sword. To Californians and those interested in the history of the -Golden State, the place has an appeal because here during several years -Don Juan Bautista Anza was commandant--the sturdy soldier who conceived -the idea of a practicable overland route from Mexico across the deserts -to the Spanish settlements on the California coast, and in 1775-6 -convoyed over this route the colonists who founded San Francisco. Today -Tubac is an unpretentious little adobe hamlet sprawling about a -gravelly, sunny knoll, and looking across the Santa Cruz River with its -fringe of billowy cottonwoods to the blue line of the Santa Rita and San -Gaetano ranges. At Rosy's Café I got a modest but comforting luncheon, -and on your way to Tumacácori you, too, might do worse. - -West of Tucson 65 miles is the little town of Casa Grande, which takes -its name from one of the most famous prehistoric ruins in the United -States, standing about 18 miles to the northeast, near the Gila River. -If you have a taste for prehistoric architecture, you will enjoy Casa -Grande, for it is _sui generis_ among our country's antiquities. If, on -the other hand, you are just an ordinary tourist, you must decide for -yourself whether a half day's motor trip across the desert to see a -ruinous, cubical mud house topped with a corrugated iron roof, in the -midst of a sunburnt wilderness, will or will not be worth your while. -What touches the fancy is that here, centuries doubtless before Columbus -(perhaps before the time of the Cliff Dwellers) dwelt and toiled an -unknown people whose remains are of a type that possesses important -points of difference from those found elsewhere within the limits of the -United States, though similar ruins exist in Mexico. Casa Grande is -Spanish for Great House, and is given to this ruin because its -outstanding feature is a huge block of a building of three or four -stories in height, and thick walls of _caliche_--a mixture of mud, lime -and pebbles molded into form and dried, somewhat as modern concrete -walls are built up. The unique character of the Casa Grande caused it to -be set aside 25 years ago as a National Monument, and important work has -since been done there by Government ethnologists, in the way of -strengthening and repairing the crumbling walls and cleaning up the -rooms. Extensive excavations have also been made close by, resulting in -uncovering the foundations of a numerous aggregation of houses plazas, -enclosing walls, etc. These reveal the fact that in some age the place -was a walled city of importance, even if it was of mud--a sort of -American Lutetia, to which Fate denied the glory of becoming a Paris. -The huge building in the center--the Casa Grande--probably served partly -as a religious temple, but principally as a citadel where in time of -attack by enemies the people took refuge. Access to the upper stories -was doubtless by ladders outside, as in modern pueblos. Indeed, this is -but one of several walled-in compounds of buildings that formerly -existed in the Gila Valley, and are now but shapeless heaps of earth. -Some of these close to the main Casa Grande ruin have been excavated and -their plan laid bare. The remains of an extensive irrigation system are -still in evidence, water having been drawn from the Gila. - -The first white man of unimpeachable record to see Casa Grande was that -Padre Eusebio Kino, of whom we heard at San Xavier and who gave the ruin -its Spanish name. He learned of it from his Indians, and in 1694 visited -the place, saying mass in one of its rooms. There is some reason to -identify the spot with Chichiticale, or Red House, a ruin noted in the -reports of Fray Marcos de Niza and of Coronado, both of whom probably -passed not far from Casa Grande on their way to Zuñi, but most scholars -now reject this theory of identity. After Kino the ruin was frequently -examined by explorers and written about up to the American occupation. -Anza and his San Francisco colonists camped a few miles distant, and the -commandant with his two friars, Padres Garcés and Font, inspected the -place with great interest on October 31, 1775. Font in his diary gives a -circumstantial account of it, calling it _La Casa de Moctezuma_ -(Montezuma's House), and narrates a tradition of the neighboring Pima -Indians as to its origin. It seems[96] that long ago, nobody knows how -long, there came to that neighborhood an old man of so harsh and crabbed -a disposition that he was called Bitter Man (_el Hombre 'Amargo_, in -Padre Font's version). With him were his daughter and son-in-law, and -for servants he had the Storm Cloud and the Wind. Until then the land -had been barren, but Bitter Man had with him seeds which he sowed, and -with the help of the two servants abundant crops grew year after year, -and were harvested. It was these people who built the Great House, and -they dwelt there, though not without quarrels because of Bitter Man's -character, so that even Storm Cloud and Wind left him at times, but they -came back. After many years, however, all went away--whither, who -knows--and were heard of no more forever. - -Casa Grande may also be reached by conveyance from Florence on the -Arizona Eastern Railway, from which point it is distant a dozen miles or -so. Owing to the extreme summer heat of this desert country, the trip to -the ruin is most comfortably made in the late autumn, winter or early -spring. There is a resident care-taker who acts as guide. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA - - -"Shall they say of you, you have been to Rome and not seen the Pope?" -Yet that is what will be said if you turn back at the Colorado River and -leave Southern California out of your Southwestern travels. However, few -people do that. The fear is that in their haste to reach that tourist -playground, they may neglect too much of what the preceding chapters -have dwelt upon. Intent upon seeing the Pope, they may do scant justice -to Rome. - -By Southern California is meant California south of the Teháchapi -Mountains and their western prolongation ending in Santa Barbara County -at the sea. It is not a political division, but Nature's--in its -physical aspect differing quite markedly from Central and Northern -California. Long regarded with a sort of mild contempt by the Americans -who settled Central California and who habitually spoke of the South as -"the cow counties," Southern California has in the last quarter century -attained a reputation not short of gilt-edged. Lonely, treeless plains -and valleys and brush-clad mesas that a comparatively few years ago were -counted desert and good for nothing except for cattle ranges and sheep -runs, have become, with the development of water, pleasant lands of -fruitfulness supporting a numerous and progressive population. The -extensive cultivation of the orange, the lemon, the fig, the grape, the -English walnut, the apricot, the olive; the planting of the eucalyptus, -the palm and a hundred kinds of exotic shade and ornamental trees; the -dotting of the landscape with villas of a distinguished sort of -architecture patterned on Italian and Spanish models--all this has -wrought a transformation that makes even more appropriate today than 25 -years ago the sobriquet of "Our Italy" given the region by Charles -Dudley Warner. - -Here wealthy Easterners maintain winter homes as they keep summer -estates on the Atlantic Coast, and less well-to-do folk--retired -farmers, tradesmen or professional people--buy a bungalow and settle -down to the enjoyment of a good climate and the luxury of having roses -and green peas in their winter gardens. Not only Americans but those of -other nationalities have discovered that Southern California totals a -remarkable number of points in the problem of comfortable living--a -healthful and delightful climate (notably in winter), a fruitful soil -capable of raising everything natural to the temperate zone besides a -large number of things sub-tropical, a beautiful and varied terrain -embracing seaside, valley and mountain, and an admirable system of -capital roads. For the tourist there is not only the attraction of this -beauty and comfort, but there is the drawing of historic interest, -touched with that indefinable sense of romance that attaches wherever -Spain has had a foothold. In Southern California as elsewhere in the -Southwest, that Spanish flavor is very evident, manifested in the -presence of a considerable Spanish-speaking population, in the remains -of Spanish-built Missions and ranch houses, and in the persistence of -Spanish geographic nomenclature. - -The hub of Southern California is Los Angeles, which in a generation has -expanded from a sleepy little half-Spanish pueblo of a few thousand to a -metropolis of half a million, with a taste for the latest in everything -and the money to indulge it. It is the natural center from which to do -one's sightseeing, though Pasadena, adjoining it on the north, is almost -as convenient and, indeed, preferred by many who are not in a hurry and -prefer surroundings more rural. Pasadena is a little city of 40,000, -beautifully situated on a shelving mesa at the base of the Sierra Madre -and overlooking the fertile San Gabriel Valley. It is nationally famous -for its numerous fine estates and the winter residences of wealthy -Easterners; but outside of that it possesses mile upon mile of -tree-lined streets where modest homes of the bungalow type look out from -a setting of vine and shrub and flower. Each New Year's Day the city -becomes the objective of tens of thousands of visitors to view the -Tournament of Roses, an outdoor fiesta whose distinctive feature is a -street floral pageant. - -From Los Angeles lines of transportation radiate to all points of -interest. You have your pick of steam railways, electric lines, -auto-stages and ocean steamers. Hundreds of miles of first class, -hard-surfaced roads make Southern California a motorist's paradise, and -automobiling is here so notable a feature of tourist life that, if -possible, the traveler should make provision for it when packing his -pocket book. Public automobiles are abundant and the prices reasonable -enough, from $1.50 per hour upward, with special rates for trips. If you -are able to club with others for a car, you may find this the cheapest -form of travel. Maps and specific information as to drives may be had at -offices of the Automobile Club of Southern California.[97] - -For those who do not care for motoring or find it too expensive, most of -the desirable points are reached by electric and steam lines, or by -auto-stages. There are several daily excursions scheduled by the Pacific -Electric Railway, which afford at a minimum of expense a satisfactory -means of getting a comprehensive idea of Southern California. One of -these, to Mount Lowe (a prominent peak of the Sierra Madre), may be -substituted for the automobile drive up Mount Wilson. The visit to San -Juan Capistrano Mission may be made by train, the railway station being -close by. There is a resident priest and religious services are -regularly held in one of the restored rooms. The Mission was founded in -1775, and the church part--now a ruin, the result of an earthquake in -1812--marked in its prime the high-tide of Mission architecture in -California. - -The Franciscan Mission establishments in California are among the most -interesting historical monuments of our country; and those of the -southern end of the State remain to-day especially noteworthy. Ten miles -from Los Angeles is Mission San Gabriel (founded in 1771 on the bank of -the Rio Hondo a few miles east of the present site, to which it was -removed in 1775). It was for many years a principal center of -civilization in the province, the settlement antedating the founding of -Los Angeles by several years. Of the original establishment little -remains but the church part, which is in a state of good preservation -and serves as a place of worship for a considerable congregation, -largely of Spanish descent. Mission San Fernando (about 25 miles west of -the heart of Los Angeles) is deserted, save by a caretaker. The fine -corridored _convento_, flush with the highway, is its most conspicuous -feature today, but the Mission was once of notable extent. A cloistered -walk formerly connected the _convento_ with the ruined church in the -rear. If you stroll on past the church to the ancient olive orchard -beyond and look back, having the two date palms there in your -foreground, you will get a charming picture of the noble old temple -where Padre "Napoleon" strove, during a third of the Mission's -existence, to steer his dusky children heavenward. Apropos of these -California Missions (whose plan was quite different from those of New -Mexico and Arizona) it should be borne in mind that originally each -consisted of a huge hollow square of buildings, facing within on an open -courtyard. The church occupied part or all of one side, the other sides -consisting of living rooms for the one or two padres (the _convento_ -part), kitchens, store rooms, shops where the neophytes were taught and -labored, and the _monjerio_ or sleeping apartment of the Indian widows -and unmarried girls of the Mission. Outside this compound were the huts -of the Indian converts, arranged in streets and forming an orderly -village of sometimes a couple of thousand souls.[98] - -South of Los Angeles, 125 miles, is San Diego, reached either by rail, -steamer, or automobile. If the last way is chosen, going and returning -may be done over different highways, one following the coast, the other -running further inland via Riverside. Both roads are excellent. Forty -miles before reaching San Diego, you pass within calling distance of -Mission San Luis Rey (St. Louis, the King)--4 miles east of Oceanside, a -railroad stop where conveyance may be had for the Mission. San Luis Rey -was founded in 1798 and in its proportions rivaled San Juan Capistrano. -It is still an imposing establishment, though restored with rather too -heavy a hand to suit the artistic sense. The situation is charming, on a -knoll in the midst of a noble valley, emerald green in winter and -spring, the San Luis Rey River flowing close by the Mission. A community -of hospitable Franciscan brothers occupies the premises, and religious -services are regularly held in the church. Twenty miles further up the -river (eastward), a pleasant drive, is San Luis Rey's sub-mission or -_asistencia_, San Antonio de Pala, which no lover of the picturesque -should miss visiting. White-walled and red-tiled, the quaint little -church with a remarkable, white bell-tower set not on it but beside it, -is one's beau ideal of an old mission. The setting, too, is satisfying. -On every hand are the mountains; a stone's throw away ripples the little -river; and clustered close by is a picturesque village of about 300 -Indians, to whom a resident priest, with rooms in the Mission, is -_cura_. Both Mission San Luis Rey and this outpost of Pala were -constructed by Indians under the supervision of the famous Padre Peyri, -one of the most forceful and devoted of the early Franciscans in -California. He gave the best of his life to his wilderness flock, and -years after his departure, the Indians, in reverence of his memory, -would still offer up their prayers before his picture as before a -saint's. - -San Diego, a city claiming a population of 100,000, is spread over -seaward-looking hills affording a delightful view of the land-locked Bay -of San Diego and the Pacific Ocean going down to China. The mountains of -Old Mexico, too, only 20 miles away, make a feature in the prospect. If -you are in any doubt what to do in San Diego, you need only stroll -around to the neighborhood of the Plaza, and you will be shown. Street -cars, automobiles, "rubberneck" busses and tourist agency windows are -hung with notices of places to see and trips to take, and the streets -are sprinkled with uniformed officials emblazoned with gold lace, to -give you details. You may have a good time on any of these jaunts, if -you are good-natured and like a bit of roughing it (for San Diego's -vicinity has not as yet reached Los Angeles County's excellence in -roads); but to give you a start I would itemize the following as not to -be overlooked: - -The exquisite gardens at Balboa Park (where the Panama-California -Exposition of 1915-16 was held), affording in epitome a charming object -lesson in what California gardens offer both in exotic and native -plants; the drive to and along the headland of Point Loma for the fine -views; by ferry across the bay to Coronado's famous hotel and beach; the -ride by railway or automobile to La Jolla (pronounced _lah ho' yah_), a -pleasant little seaside resort with interesting cliffs and surf-drenched -rocks; by street car to Old Town (where San Diego had its beginning), to -visit the Estudillo house--a former Spanish home intelligently restored -and interesting as a bit of old-time architecture with its tiled inner -corridors about a flowery patio. It is locally known as "Ramona's -Marriage Place," because it was here, according to the novel, that the -priest lived who married Ramona and Alessandro. On the hill back of Old -Town once stood Padre Junípero Serra's first Mission in California, -founded in 1769; but it is all gone now, the site being marked by a -large cross made of the original red tiles that once littered the -ground. It is but a short walk worth taking both for the view and for -the sentiment of standing on the spot where white civilization in -California had its beginning. Five miles up the valley that stretches -eastward at your feet is what is left of the second Mission (established -in 1774). This historic building has been sadly neglected and is but a -ruined shell, which only reverence for its past makes interesting. -Across the road from it is the old olive orchard, believed to be the -original planting of the olive in the State. - -San Diego's back country offers many interesting trips by auto-stage or -private car, the roads being as a rule good but with the ups and downs -of a hilly region. There are several good hotels in the mountains at a -distance of 60 miles or so from San Diego, so that the night may be -spent here if desired. Pine Hills, Mesa Grande, and Warner's Hot Springs -may be mentioned as desirable objectives. The trip by auto-stage or your -own car via Campo to El Centro or Calexico (at the Mexican border) in -the Imperial Valley will prove an unforgettable experience. The Imperial -Valley is a depression below sea-level in the Colorado Desert of -California, which after lying desolate for ages has of late been made -exceedingly productive by diverting irrigation water to it from the -Colorado River. This trip had best be made between November and May, as -the desert heat in summer and early autumn is intense. If you have your -own car and desire the experience of more desert, return may be made -around the Salton Sea through the Coachella Valley (where dates are now -extensively grown), to Palm Springs and Riverside. - -While we have rambled along the coast between Los Angeles and San Diego, -our eyes will often have been caught by the sight of a long, low island -well out to sea. It is Santa Catalina, whose reputation as a -sea-angler's paradise is world wide. It has also a most delightful -climate--its and San Diego's being perhaps the most equable of any on -the Coast. The marine gardens that line the shores are also of wide -fame, and are made visible by boats with glass bottoms, through which -one looks down into the transparent waters of another world where waving -kelps and sea mosses are the forests and bright colored fish, sea -anemones, jelly fish, sea cucumbers and other queer creatures are the -inhabitants. The trip thither and return may be accomplished from Los -Angeles, between breakfast and evening dinner, if you do not care to -stay longer. - -A hundred miles northwest of Los Angeles lies Santa Barbara (a little -city of 15,000), rich in beautiful homes and flowery gardens. It is -delightfully situated with the ocean at its feet and the Santa Inés -Mountains at its back, and may be reached from Los Angeles either by -train or by a picturesque motor drive through valleys, over mountains -and beside the sea. Here is the best preserved of all the existing -Franciscan Missions in California--never abandoned since its founding in -1786, though now for many a year there have been no Indians in its care. -It is the residence of a Franciscan community, and the members in their -long brown gowns and white cord girdles may be seen any day at their -various tasks about the grounds--one of which is the piloting of -visitors through the church. - -Driving, horseback-riding, playing golf, or simply sitting still and -enjoying being alive in the midst of fine scenery, are the principal -occupations of Santa Barbara's visitors. Among the longer drives should -be mentioned the 40 miles to the Ojai Valley by way of the lovely -Casitas Passes, and the 45 miles across the Santa Inés Mountains to the -Mission Santa Inés in the valley of the same name. The latter trip is -made more enjoyable if two days are taken to it, the mountains being -crossed by the San Marcos Pass[99] into the Valley of Santa Inés, famous -for its majestic oaks, and the night passed at Los Olivos, 6 miles north -of the Mission Mattei's Tavern at Los Olivos, is one of the most -comfortable country inns in California. The return should be made by the -Gaviota Pass and the seaside road back to Santa Barbara. The Mission of -Santa Inés (which is Spanish for Saint Agnes, whose eve gives title to -Keat's immortal poem), is sight enough to make the trip worth -while--with white walls, red-tiled roofs and flowery, corridored front, -in a valley rimmed about with mountains. The Mission was long abandoned -and in ruins, but when the present hospitable rector took charge some 15 -years ago, he began a careful restoration and with his own hands did -much of the necessary labor to put it as we see it today.[100] - - - - - A POSTSCRIPT ON CLIMATE, WAYS AND MEANS. - - -While the climate of the Southwest is characterized by abundant sunshine -and a low degree of relative humidity, it has periods of considerable -moisture precipitation. In winter this takes the form of snow in the -northern and central portions of New Mexico and Arizona (which lie at an -elevation of 5000 feet and more above sea level). The snow, however, -except upon the mountains, disappears rather rapidly under the hot -sunshine of midday, so that the traveler has a fair chance to sandwich -his trips between the storms. The mid-year precipitation of rain is -generally during July and August, and throughout all parts of both those -States it descends usually in severe electrical storms. These occur as a -rule in the afternoon and pass quickly, but while they last they are apt -to be very, very wet. They are the occasion of sky effects of cloud and -rainbow wonderful enough to compensate for whatever discomfort the rain -may cause. In most sections the summer temperatures are on the whole -agreeable, but in the much lower altitudes of parts of southern Arizona -and New Mexico, desert conditions largely prevail, with a degree of heat -in summer that is trying to sight-seers. - -In Southern California climatic conditions differ greatly from those -east of the Colorado River. The coast year is divided naturally into a -dry season and a wet--the latter normally extending from October or -November to April or May. From about mid-spring to about mid-autumn no -rainfall whatever is to be expected, except in the high mountains where -there are occasional thundershowers during summer. The winter -precipitation comes usually in intermittent rain-storms of perhaps two -or three days' duration (on the higher mountains these come as snow), -the intervening periods generally characterized by pleasant, sunshiny -days and by nights with temperatures (particularly during December and -January), not infrequently as low as 30 degrees Fahr. These minimums, -however, rarely hold over an hour or so; and curiously enough, though -they result in early morning frosts, only the tenderest vegetation is -killed, the mercury rising rapidly after sunrise; so that a great -variety of garden flowers bloom, and many vegetables mature, in the open -throughout the winter. A marked feature of the California 24 hours is -the wide difference between the temperature at midday and that at night, -amounting to 35 or 40 degrees F. This condition is fairly constant and -to be counted on daily. Similarly there is a very marked difference -between shade and sun. A respectful regard for this fact will save the -traveler many a bad cold. In summer, though the mercury may run well up -into the 90's and sometimes even to over 100 degrees, the accompanying -relative humidity is low, so that it may be said that as a rule one -suffers less from heat on the Pacific Coast than on the Atlantic at a -dozen degrees lower. - -As regards clothing, a simple and safe rule for travelers in the -Southwest is to bring with them the same sort that they would wear in -New York, season for season. No part of the Southwest is tropical, or -even Floridian. - -In the matter of expenses, Southern California has had a wider -experience in catering to tourists than Arizona and New Mexico and its -facilities are now thoroughly systematized, so that the average man may, -if he chooses, live there about as cheaply as at home, or he may have -the most luxurious accommodations at the larger resorts on a basis that -only the very wealthy are familiar with. European plan is that most in -vogue in California hotels, and the one most satisfactory for the -traveler, who, in his rambles, often finds himself at meal-time far from -his hostelry. Unless you want to pay more, you may calculate on $1.00 to -$1.50 a night for a comfortable room. In Arizona and New Mexico the -sparser settlement of the country results in plainer accommodations, but -the rates are reasonable--room $1.00 a day and up; American plan rate -under normal conditions about $3.00 a day. At many points in these two -States the railways conduct hotels for the accommodation of their -patrons, and they are, in my experience, uniformly good. - -The charge for saddle-horses varies greatly. In out-of-the-way places -where the horses range for their feed, ponies may be had for a dollar a -day; but at the popular resorts, the rent of a good mount is generally -in the neighborhood of $3.00 a day; it may be even more. There is a -similar irregularity as to automobile rates. The latter are largely -influenced by the character of the trip, as 50 miles on some roads would -involve greater expense to the owner than 100 miles on others. A return -of $15 or $20 a day for a car is not infrequently considered -satisfactory, but harder trips naturally necessitate a much higher -charge. In bargaining for transportation in the Southwest, where it may -be a day's journey between stopping places, it is well to remember that -the lowest priced is not always the cheapest. It pays to pay for -responsibility. - - - - - FOOTNOTES - - -[1]In 1883 New Mexico enterprisingly celebrated a so-called 300th - anniversary of the founding of Santa Fe, basing that function on the - assumption that Antonio de Espejo, who made an extended exploration - of the province in 1582-3, had planted a colony there. But there is - no evidence whatever that he did. - -[2]The name commemorates the first Catholic Archbishop of Santa Fe, John - B. Lamy (1850-1885), an apostolic man much beloved by the New - Mexicans, to whom he appears to have been a true spiritual father. - -[3]General Lew Wallace, while governor of New Mexico, wrote the last - three books of "Ben Hur" in the old Palace. "When in the city," he - informed a correspondent, as quoted in Twitchell's "Leading Facts of - New Mexico History," "my habit was to shut myself night after night - in the bedroom back of the executive office proper, and write there - till after twelve o'clock.... The retirement, impenetrable to - incoming sound, was as profound as a cavern's." - -[4]An establishment of the Archaeological Institute of America, which - maintains schools also at Athens, Rome and Jerusalem. The Santa Fe - school has for years conducted research work among the ancient - remains in the Southwest, Guatemala, and other parts of the American - continent. In connection with this, it holds annually a field summer - school open to visitors. - -[5]The climate is part of Santa Fe's cherished assets, the atmosphere - being characterized by great dryness. In summer the heat is rarely - oppressive, and the nights are normally cool and refreshing. During - July and August frequent thunder showers, usually occurring in the - afternoon, are to be expected. In winter the mercury occasionally - touches zero, and there is more or less of wind and snow interfering - temporarily with the tourist's outings; but the sunshine is warm and - the snow melts quickly. Autumn is ideal with snappy nights and - mornings and warm, brilliantly sunny mid-days. - -[6]The traveler should be warned that Indians as a rule object to being - photographed. Originally they had an idea that ill fortune attended - the operation, but the objection nowadays is usually grounded on a - natural distaste to being made a show of, or the desire to make a - little money. In the latter case, they may succumb to the offer of a - dime if they cannot get 25 cents. It is only just and courteous to - ask permission of the subject (putting yourself in his place). This - is particularly needful at dances. Sometimes photographing these is - not tolerated; in other cases, a fee paid to the governor secures a - license for the day. - -[7]About 10 miles beyond Tesuque is the pueblo of Nambé, prettily - situated under the shoulder of the fine, snowy peak, Santa Fe Baldy, - with the lovely Nambé Falls not far away. The Indian population is - barely 100 and the village is becoming Mexicanized. Its saint's day - is October 4, when the annual fiesta occurs. - -[8]Population about 275. Its public fiesta is held August 12. - -[9]James Mooney, "The Ghost-Dance Religion." - -[10]You may, if you choose, do Taos from Santa Fe in your own or a hired - automobile via Tesuque and San Juan pueblos, giving a day each way to - the journey. Nambé, San Ildefonso and Santa Clara may be included by - slight detours, but the time in that case must be stretched. - -[11]Col. R. E. Twitchell quotes a tradition of the Taos people to the - effect that they came to their present home under divine guidance, - the site being indicated to them by the drop of an eagle's feather - from the sky. - -[12]The skulls of the Cliff Dwellers indicate them to have been a - "long-headed" race, while the modern Pueblos are so only in part. It - is likely, therefore, that the latter Indians are of mixed stocks. - There is, however, abundant traditionary evidence that certain clans - of the present-day Pueblos are of Cliff descent. - -[13]Pronounced _Pah'ha-ree-to_, and meaning _little bird_. - -[14]_Recto day loce Free-ho'les_, i. e., _brook of the beans_. - -[15]From Santa Fe to the Tyuonyi and return may be made by automobile in - one strenuous day, including 2 or 3 hours at the ruins. It is better, - if possible, to board at the ranch in the cañon for a few days, both - for the purpose of examining the ruins at leisure and making some of - the interesting side trips from that point; notably to the Stone - Lions of Cochití, unique examples of aboriginal carving on stone, and - to _La Cueva Pintada_ (the Painted Cave) where are some remarkable - symbolic pictographs. Arrangements should be made with the ranch in - advance by telephone. - -[16]An ecclesiastical order existent in rural New Mexico, probably - deriving from the Third Order of Saint Francis, and distinguished by - practices of self-flagellation for the remission of sins. They are - particularly active during Lent, when they form processions, beat - themselves with knotted whips, strap bundles of cactus to their - backs, and walk barefoot or on their knees over flint-strewn ground, - bearing heavy crosses. Some of their exercises are held at the - crosses on these hill-top _calvarios_ (calvaries). The Catholic - Church discourages their practices; but they possess considerable - political power in New Mexico and of recent years the order has - become regularly incorporated as a secret fraternity under the State - law. - -[17]L. Bradford Prince, "Spanish Mission Churches of New Mexico." - -[18]The original form of the name is Alburquerque, given in honor of a - Duke of Alburquerque, who was viceroy of New Spain at the time the - place was founded as a _villa_ in 1706. - -[19]The name Isleta means "islet," given, according to Dr. F. W. Hodge, - because formerly the Rio Grande and an arroyo from the mountains - islanded the pueblo between them. - -[20]The church authorities, it should be said, do not endorse this - tradition. Father Zepherin Engelhardt, the historian of the - Franciscans in the Southwest, tells me that there were other - missionaries named Padilla besides Padre Juan, and the burial of one - of these in the church at Isleta, may have given color to the story. - -[21]Pronounced _bair-na-lee'yo_. It is a diminutive of Bernal, and the - place was so named because settled by descendants of Bernal Diaz, a - soldier of Cortés and contemporary chronicler of the conquest of - Mexico. It was at Bernalillo that De Vargas died, in 1704. - -[22]Including a score or so descended from the Pecos tribe who moved to - Jemes in 1838 from Pecos Pueblo. This now deserted pueblo (whose - ruins have lately been systematically excavated and whose fine old - Mission church, visible from the Santa Fe transcontinental trains, - has undergone some careful restoration) may be reached by conveyance - from the Valley Ranch near Glorieta station on the Santa Fe. In - Coronado's time Pecos was the most populous town in the country. It - is called Cicuyé by the old chroniclers. - -[23]The nearest railway station to these lakes is Estancia on the New - Mexican Central. - -[24]Harrington, "The Ethno-geography of the Tewa Indians." - -[25]Papers of the School of American Archaeology, No. 35. - -[26]Popular tradition persistently associates gold-hoarding with the - Franciscan Missionaries throughout the Southwest, ignoring the fact - that the members of the Seraphic Order were pledged to poverty, and - had small interest in any wealth except the unsearchable riches of - Christ, to share which with their humble Indian charges was their - sole mission in the wilderness. As for the New Mexico Indians, they - knew nothing of any mineral more precious than turquoise. - -[27]Paul A. F. Walter, "The Cities That Died of Fear." - -[28]Apropos of these ruined Missions, it is interesting to know that the - construction was undoubtedly the work of women--house-building being - one of the immemorial duties and cherished privileges of Pueblo - womankind. - -[29]Paul A. P. Walter, "The Cities That Died of Fear." - -[30]The Manzano range reaches an elevation of 10,600 feet here. - -[31]The formation is that known throughout New Mexico as a _mesa_ - (Spanish for _table_). Such flat-topped hills--high or low--have been - brought into being by the washing away in ancient times of the - surrounding earth. - -[32]New Mexico rural roads are in a certain Mark Tapleyian sense ideal - for motorists. Traversing unfenced plains, as they often do, if they - develop bad spots the motorist turns aside and has little difficulty - in scouting out a detour. After a rain, however, they are gummy and - slippery in adobe country until the sun hardens the clay, which it - does rather quickly. - -[33]Some of the Acomas in despair, threw themselves from the cliffs and - so died rather than surrender. A stirring account of the storming of - Acoma will be found in "The Spanish Pioneers," by Chas. F. Lummis. - -[34]Remarkable for its light weight and ornamentation with - conventionalized leaf forms, birds, etc. Unfortunately the education - of the young Indians in Government schools is causing a decline at - all the pueblos in this purely American art. - -[35]The reader, curious to know what is on top of Katzimo, is referred - to an article, "Ascent of the Enchanted Mesa," by F. W. Hodge, in the - Century Magazine, May, 1898. - -[36]Strictly speaking Laguna is the mother pueblo in a family of seven, - the other half dozen being summer or farming villages scattered about - within a radius of a few miles, so established to be near certain - fertile lands. Some of these, as Pojuate, are picturesque enough to - warrant a visit, if there is time. The population of all 7 is - estimated at about 1500. - -[37]For a lively account of this authentic bit of history, the reader is - referred to the chapter "A Saint in Court" in Mr. C. F. Lummis's - "Some Strange Corners of our Country." - -[38]Gallup is also a principal shipping point for Navajo blankets. - Travelers interested in this aboriginal handiwork will here find - large stocks to select from at the traders' stores. - -[39]In the southwestern corner of Colorado. Here are hundreds of - prehistoric dwellings built in the cañon walls representing probably - the finest and best preserved architecture of the unknown vanished - races that once peopled our Southwest. Government archaeologists, who - have a particularly warm regard for the Mesa Verde, have been making - careful excavations and restorations here for years, and have mapped - out a program that will consume many more. The so-called Sun Temple, - excavated in 1915, apparently a communal edifice for the performance - of religious dramas, is the only one of its kind so far brought to - light in the United States. (See "Sun Temple of Mesa Verde National - Park," by J. W. Fewkes. 1916, Gov't Printing office.) A public camp - for tourists is maintained near the ruins during the summer months, - the high elevation (8500 feet) rendering snow likely at other - seasons. The nearest railway station is Mancos, Col., on the D. & R. - G., whence an auto-stage runs to the Park camp. - -[40]The most famous is the Shálako which occurs annually about December - 1, largely a night ceremony of great impressiveness. The central - figures are giant effigies representing divinities, whose motive - power is a Zuñi man hidden within each. They enter from the plain at - dusk, and to the plain return the next morning, after a night of - dancing and feasting by the people. - -[41]For some of the adventures of this famous couple, see F. H. - Cushing's, "Zuñi Folk Tales." - -[42]Reports of the Secretary of War, Senate Ex. Doc. 64, First Session - 31st Congress, 1850. A more illuminating account of the Rock is given - by Mr. Chas. F. Lummis in "Some Strange Corners of Our Country." An - able supplement to this is a paper by H. L. Broomall and H. E. Hoopes - in Proceedings of Delaware County Institute of Science, Vol. I, No. - 1, Media, Pa. - -[43]There were poets among the Conquistadores. A printed source relied - upon by historians for authentic particulars of Oñate's tour of - conquest is a rhymed chronicle by one of his lieutenants, Don Gaspar - de Villagrán. I believe New Mexico is the only one of our States that - can seriously quote an epic poem in confirmation of its history. This - New Mexican Homer, as H. H. Bancroft calls him, printed his book in - 1610 at Alcalá. A reprint, published in Mexico a few years ago, may - be consulted in public libraries. The original is one of the rarest - of Americana. - -[44]The Spaniards, whose avenging expedition Lujan's cutting upon El - Morro records, never found Letrado's body, the Zuñis having made way - with it. Earnestly desiring some relic of the martyred friar, the - soldiers were rewarded by seeing in the air a cord which descended - into their hands, and this was divided among them. So says Vetancurt, - old chronicler of Franciscan martyrdom in New Mexico. - -[45]Pronounced not as though it rhymed with _jelly_, but _chay_ (or less - correctly _shay_) rhyming with _hay_. The word is a Spanish way of - recording the cañon's Navajo name Tse-yi, meaning "among the cliffs." - -[46]To him, more than to any other man, is ascribed the credit of saving - the Navajo blanket industry from being hopelessly vulgarized by - ignorant and unscrupulous dealers. - -[47]"Navaho Legends," by Dr. Washington Matthews. - -[48]Automobiles must be left at Chin Lee, where horses for exploring the - cañon may be had, if arranged for in advance. - -[49]Botanically, _Phragmites communis_, common throughout the United - States in damp places. It was through the hollow stem of one of this - species divinely enlarged, that the Navajos and Pueblos came up in - company from the underworld into this present world of light. So at - least runs the Navajo Origin legend. - -[50]The origin of the Navajo blanket is picturesque. At the time of the - Spanish conquest, the tribe was too insignificant to be mentioned. It - grew, however, rather rapidly, and in raids upon the Pueblos took - many of the latter prisoners. From these (the Pueblos had long been - weavers of native cotton) they picked up the textile art; and then - stealing sheep from the Spaniards, they inaugurated the weaving of - the woolen blanket. Only the women of the tribe are weavers, and - Doctor Matthews states that in his time, some 30 years ago, they did - it largely as an artistic recreation, just as the ladies of - civilization do embroidery or tatting. - -[51]The place of emergence is fancied to have been in an island in a - small lake in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. - -[52]Dr. W. Matthews, "Navaho Legends." - -[53]The nearest railway station is McCarty's, from which it lies 12 - miles to the northeast. - -[54]The classic work on Navajo customs and myths is "Navaho Legends," by - Dr. Washington Matthews--a U. S. army surgeon who resided on their - Reservation for years. To a sympathetic attitude towards the race, he - added the practical qualification of a thorough knowledge of the - language. - -[55]Other routes from railroad points are from Winslow, Ariz., 80 miles - to the First Mesa or 75 miles to the Second Mesa; from Cañon Diablo, - Ariz., 75 miles to the Third Mesa; from Holbrook, Ariz., 90 miles to - the First Mesa. The routes from Gallup and Holbrook possess the - advantage of avoiding the crossing of the Little Colorado River, - which becomes at times impassable from high water. - -[56]A variant of this pueblo's name is Shongópovi. - -[57]The population of the Hopi pueblos is approximately: Walpi, 250; - Sichúmovi, 100; Hano, 150; Mishong-novi, 250; Shipaulovi, 200; - Shimapovi, 200; Oraibi, 300; Hótavila, 400; Pacavi, 100. Another Hopi - village (until recently considered a summer or farming outpost of - Oraibi) is Moenkopi, 40 miles further west, with a population of - about 200. - -[58]Hopi, or Hopi-tuh, the name these Indians call themselves, means - "the peaceful," a truthful enough appellation, for they suffer much - before resorting to force. By outsiders they have often been called - Moki, a term never satisfactorily explained, except that it is - considered uncomplimentary. - -[59]The myth has to do with the arrival of the Flute clan at Walpi - bringing with them effective paraphernalia for compelling rain to - fall. The Walpians opposed the entrance of the stranger, and this is - symbolized in the ceremony by lines of white corn meal successively - sprinkled by priests across the trail, as the procession advances - towards the village. - -[60]The inhabitants of Hano are not pure Hopi, but descended from Tewa - Pueblos of the Rio Grande region, who took up their residence here - after 1680, invited by the Hopis as a help against Apache - depredation. Though these Tewas have intermarried with their Hopi - neighbors, they are proud of their distinct ancestry, have preserved - their own language, and still practise some of their ancient - religious rites. - -[61]Mr. F. L. Lewton investigated and described this species as - _Gossypium Hopi_. Smithsonian Institution, Misc. Coll. Vol. 60, No. - 6. - -[62]This name is not Spanish or Indian for anything but just a playful - transmogrification of Adam Hanna, an old time Arizonian who once - lived there. - -[63]U. S. Geological Survey's Guide Book of the Western United States, - Part C. - -[64]Report on the Petrified Forests of Arizona, Dept. of Interior, 1900. - -[65]The cracking of the wood in recent years has lately required the - bolstering up of this interesting petrified bridge by artificial - support, so that venturesome visitors may still enjoy walking across - it. - -[66]This is also readily reached from Holbrook station on the Santa Fe - railway, where conveyance may be obtained. The distance from Holbrook - is 18 miles. - -[67]Automobile service may be had at Adamana for a number of points of - interest within reach. Among these are the fine pueblo ruins of - Kin-tyel (Wide House) 48 miles to the northeast--a village believed - to have been built by certain clans of the Zuñis in their prehistoric - migrations. - -[68]The name is said to date from a certain Fourth of July, some 60 - years ago, when a party of emigrants camped on the site of the future - town and flew the Stars and Stripes from a pole erected in honor of - the National holiday. - -[69]Those of Walnut Cañon, about 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff, are - especially easy of access. For particulars concerning the cinder-cone - ruins (9 miles northeast of Flagstaff and also 12 miles east) the - student is referred to Dr. J. W. Fewkes's descriptions in the 22nd - Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology, pp. 35-39. - -[70]The name commemorates "Old" Bill Williams, a noted frontiersman of - the 1830's and '40's, identified with Fremont's fourth and ill-fated - expedition, which Williams undertook to guide across the Rockies and - failed because of the snow and cold. A tributary of the Colorado - River also bears his name. - -[71]About 10 miles eastwardly; a remarkable little volcanic mountain - with a cratered summit, the glowing red rock of which it is made up - giving the upper part of the mountain the appearance at any time of - day of being illumined by the setting sun. It may be made the - objective of a pleasant half day's trip from Flagstaff. - -[72]"The Hopi," Walter Hough. - -[73]H. H. Robinson, "The San Francisco Volcanic Field," Washington, - 1913. - -[74]The varied tints of the Painted Desert are due to the coloration of - the rocks and clays which form its surface. Some additional tone is - given at times by the vegetation that springs up after rainfall. - -[75]These two together with a third called Inscription House Ruin (20 - miles west of Betata Kin and so named because of certain Spanish - inscriptions upon it dated 1661) form what is called the Navajo - National Monument. At Kayenta, a post office and trading post of - Messrs. Wetherill and Colville some 20 miles southeast of Betata Kin, - pack outfits and guide may be secured to visit these ruins. Dr. J. W. - Fewkes's description, Bulletin 50, Bureau of American Ethnology, - should be consulted for details. - -[76]The Red Rock country is also reached via Cornville and Sedona by - conveyance from Clarkdale on the Verde Valley branch of the Santa Fe - Railway, or from Jerome on the United Verde railroad. - -[77]The name commemorates that lieutenant of Coronado's, Don Pedro de - Tovar, who in 1540 visited the Hopi villages, where he learned of the - existence of the Grand Cañon, and carried the news of it back to - Coronado at Zuñi. - -[78]The exact spot of this first view is not known--the point that today - bears the name of Cárdenas being a random guess. - -[79]The first complete exploration of the river cañons was made in 1869, - by an expedition in charge of Major J. W. Powell, the noted - ethnologist and geologist. He had boats especially built for the - trip. It was an undertaking of supreme danger, forming, as Mr. F. S. - Dellenbaugh says in his interesting "Romance of the Colorado River," - "one of the distinguished feats of history;" for not one of the - pioneering party could have any conception of what physical obstacles - were before them when the boats set out at the Cañon's head into the - unknown. Powell was a Civil War veteran and had but one hand. He made - a second and more leisurely trip in 1871-72. - -[80]Bright Angel is the name given by the first Powell expedition to a - creek entering the river here from the north; its bright, clear - waters being in striking contrast to a turbid little tributary - discovered not long before, which the men had dubbed "Dirty Devil - Creek." - -[81]It is not a true salmon. Dr. David Starr Jordan identifies it as - _Ptychocheilus lucius_, and it is really a huge chub or minnow. There - is a record of one caught weighing 80 pounds; more usual are - specimens of 10 and 12 pounds. - -[82]An interesting trip with the Grand Cañon as a base is to Cataract - Cañon, a side gorge of the Grand Cañon about 40 miles west of El - Tovar. The trip may be made by wagon to the head of the trail leading - down into an arm of Cataract Cañon, but the final lap--about 15 - miles--must be on horseback or afoot. At the bottom is the - reservation of a small tribe of Indians--the Havasupais--occupying a - fertile, narrow valley hedged in by high cliffs of red limestone. - There are numerous springs and the water is used to irrigate the - fields and peach orchards of the tribe. These Indians are much - Americanized, and live under the paternal care of a local Government - agency. A feature of the Cañon is the number of fine water falls. To - one exquisite one, called Bridal Veil, it would be hard to find - anywhere a mate. A camping trip eastward from Grand View along the - rim to the Little Colorado Junction may also be made a pleasant - experience, rendered particularly glorious by the desert views. - -[83]Jerome is reached by a little railway from Jerome Junction on the - Ash Fork and Phoenix division of the Santa Fe; Clarkdale, by a branch - from Cedar Glade on the same division. The Clarkdale branch threads - for much of the way the picturesque cañon of the upper Verde River. - -[84]There is, however, no evidence of volcanic action in the vicinity; - so the depression--deep as it is--is doubtless the result of solvent - or erosive action of the waters of the Well. (J. W. Fewkes, 17th Ann. - Rep. Bureau of American Ethnology.) - -[85]17th Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology. - -[86]The climate is noted for its mildness and salubrity. There is a - local saying, "If a man wants to die in San Antonio, he must go - somewhere else!" - -[87]Pronounced _ah'la-mo_, Spanish for cottonwood. The name was probably - given from cottonwoods growing near by. The Church of the Alamo was - erected in 1744. - -[88]The reader, curious for details of the San Antonio Missions, as well - as items of local secular history, is referred to Wm. Corner's "San - Antonio de Béxar." He will also be interested in a picturesque sketch - of San Antonio as it was nearly half a century ago, by the Southern - poet Sidney Lanier, who in quest of health passed the winter of - 1872-3 here, and here made his resolve, faithfully carried out, to - devote the remainder of his life to music and poetry. The sketch is - printed in a collection of Lanier's essays entitled "Retrospects and - Prospects." - -[89]These three Missions were originally located about 15 years earlier - on sites some distance from San Antonio. Scarcity of irrigation water - is given as one important cause of their removal in 1731 to the banks - of the San Antonio River. - -[90]Silver and gold gave it its start. Its name is believed to be due to - a huge bowlder or globe of silver weighing 300 pounds, found there in - 1876. - -[91]Pronounced _Too-son'_. It is the name applied by the neighboring - Papago Indians to a mountain at the west of the present town, and - according to Dr. W. J. McGee, means "black base." Tucson's first - appearance in history seems to have been in 1763, as an Indian - village whose spiritual needs were served by the missionaries of San - Xavier del Bac. In 1776 a Spanish presídio was established here, and - the little pueblo became San Agustin de Tucson. An edifice, - originally a church dedicated to St. Augustine but now a lodging - house, still faces the old Spanish plaza of the town. - -[92]"An escutcheon with a white ground filed in with a twisted cord ... - and a cross on which are nailed one arm of Our Saviour and one of St. - Francis, representing the union of the disciple and the divine Master - in charity and love. The arm of our Lord is bare while that of St. - Francis is covered." (Salpointe, "Soldiers of the Cross.") - -[93]Engelhardt, "The Franciscans in Arizona." The diaries of Garcés are - marked by naïve charm and simplicity. One, translated and elaborately - annotated by the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has been published under the - title "On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer." - -[94]It stands on the west (opposite) side of the river from the railway, - a fact that may be fraught with trouble; for the river, which is - ordinarily insignificant enough to be crossed on a plank, is capable - of becoming after storms a raging flood 200 feet wide and 20 deep. - Under such circumstances, it is the part of wisdom to motor from - Tucson. - -[95]In the sanctuary were interred, and I suppose still repose, the - bones of the Franciscan Padres Baltasar Carillo and Narciso - Gutierres, whom Archbishop Salpointe in his "Soldiers of the Cross," - credits with being the supervising builders both of the present - church of Tumacácori and that of San Xavier. - -[96]Dr. F. W. Fewkes gives this and several other folk tales concerning - the Casa Grande in the 28th Report of the Bureau of American - Ethnology, which should be consulted for an exhaustive account of the - ruin and the Government excavation work. - -[97]The following all-day trips are especially recommended: - - 1. To Redlands, in the San Bernardino foothills, one of the most - beautiful of California towns, and Riverside with its famous Mission - Inn (about 145 miles the round, including the ascent of Mt. - Roubidoux), traversing a beautiful orange and lemon district and - paralleling the stately Sierra Madre, whose highest peaks are - snow-capped in winter. (If there is time for another day this trip - may be extended in winter or spring to include the run to Palm - Springs in the desert, 50 miles beyond Redlands. This is - particularly enjoyable in March and April when the wild flowers of - the desert are in bloom--a surprising and lovely sight. There is a - good hotel at Palm Springs, but it is safest to arrange ahead for - accommodations). - - 2. To Mission San Juan Capistrano (about 120 miles the round), one - of the most interesting and poetic in its half ruin of the old - Franciscan California establishments. The road traverses the rich - agricultural districts tributary to Whittier and Santa Ana, and a - portion of the extensive Irvine, or San Joaquin Ranch (about 100,000 - acres). A detour may be made to include Laguna and Arch Beaches and - a run (over an inferior road) of ten miles overlooking a picturesque - rock-bound bit of Pacific surf. - - 3. To Mount Wilson Peak (50 miles the round, but includes 9 miles of - tortuous mountain road with a grade as high as 23% in one or two - spots). On this peak (6000 feet above the sea) are situated the - buildings of the Carnegie Solar Observatory, which, however, are not - open to the public. The views from the peak are very beautiful. The - trip can also be made by public auto-stage. There is a hotel at the - summit. - - 4. To Camulos Rancho (95 miles the round), a good example of the old - style Spanish-California ranch, utilized by Mrs. Jackson as the - scene of part of her novel "Ramona." It is situated in the Santa - Clara Valley of the South. A stop may be made en route at Mission - San Fernando. The return trip may be made by way of Topanga Cañon - and the seaside town of Santa Monica, if an extra hour can be given - to it. - - Half-day drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles are too numerous to - be itemized here, but the following may be mentioned: - - 1. To the Mission San Fernando by way of Hollywood (famous for its - beautiful homes, and latterly as the capital of "Movie-land") and - through the Cahuenga Pass, returning via the Topanga Cañon, the - beach and Santa Monica. - - 2. To Sunland via Alhambra and Santa Anita Avenue to the Foothill - Boulevard, Altadena, and La Cañada, returning via Roscoe and - Tropico. - - 3. To Mission San Gabriel, returning by way of Pasadena's famous - residential districts of Oak Knoll and Orange Grove Boulevard, - thence over the Arroyo Seco Bridge and past the Annandale Country - Club, back to the city. - - 4. To Whittier and the citrus-fruit belt of the San Gabriel Valley - via either Turnbull or Brea Cañons (the latter picturesque with oil - derricks) returning by the Valley Boulevard. - -[98]"The California Padres and their Missions," by C. F. Saunders and J. - S. Chase. - -[99]The San Marcos road has some stiff grades and should only be - traveled by experienced drivers. - -[100]For a more detailed account of the tourist attractions in Southern - California, reference is made to the author's "Finding the Worth - While in California." - - - - - INDEX - - - A - Abó, 60, 62. - Acevedo, Fr. Francisco, de, 60, 63. - Acoma Pueblo, 68. - Adamana, 130. - Alamo, The, 179. - Albuquerque, 43. - Anza, Juan Bautista, 198, 202. - Apache Trail, 190. - Arch Beach, 209. - Awátobi, 121. - - - B - Bácavi Pueblo, 119. - Bandelier, A. F., 34, 54, 59. - Beaver Creek, 164. - Bernalillo, 49. - Betata Kin Ruins, 148. - Bill Williams, 141. - Bitter Man, Legend of, 202. - Bowie, James, 181. - Buckman, 33, 41. - - - C - Camp Verde, 165. - Camulos Rancho, 210. - Cañon de Chelly, 103, 107. - Cañon Diablo, 116. - Carson, Kit, 29, 111. - Casa Grande Ruins, 200. - Chaco Cañon, 83. - Chímayo, 38. - Chin Lee, 103, 106. - Clarkdale, 149, 162. - Cliff Dwellings, 108, 148, 192. - Coachella Valley, 218. - Cochití Pueblo, 54. - Colorado Desert, 217. - Crockett, Davy, 181. - Cueva Pintada, La, 33. - - - E - El Cabezon, 113. - Española, 24, 41. - Estancia Valley, 56, 67. - - - F - Flagstaff, 137. - Fort Defiance, 105. - Frijoles Cañon, 33. - - - G - Gallup, 82, 102. - Ganado, 105. - Garcés, Fr. Francisco, 121, 195, 202. - 228 - Globe, 191. - Gran Quivira, 58, 60, 62, 63. - Grand Cañon, 150. - - - H - Hano Pueblo, 118, 128. - Háwikuh, 92. - Holbrook, 135. - Hollywood, 210. - Hosta Butte, 112. - Hopi Mesas, 118. - Hótavila Pueblo, 119. - - - I - Imperial Valley, 217. - Inscription House Ruin, 148. - Inscription Rock, 83, 93. - Isleta Pueblo, 44. - - - J - Jemes Pueblo, 50. - Jemes Springs, 51. - Jerome, 149, 162. - - - K - Kayenta, 148. - Keam's Cañon, 116. - Kearney, Stephen, 8. - Keet-Seel Ruins, 148. - Kino, Fr. Eusebio, 193, 201. - Kin-tyel Ruins, 136. - - - L - Laguna Beach, 209. - Laguna Pueblo, 68, 78. - La Jolla, 216. - Lake, The Accursed, 57. - Lamy, Bishop, 5. - Lanier, Sidney, 184, 187. - Letrado, Padre, 90, 99. - Lions of Cochití, Stone, 33. - Llana, Fr. Gerónimo de la, 11, 65. - Los Angeles, 207. - Los Olivos, 220. - - - M - Manzano, 66. - McCarty's, 112. - Mesa Encantada, 74. - Mesa Grande, 217. - Mesa Verde National Park, 83. - Mishóngnovi Pueblo, 118. - Mission Churches: - Arizona. - San José de Tumacácori, 197. - San Xavier del Bac, 195. - California. - San Antonio de Pala, 214. - San Diego, 213. - San Fernando, 210, 211. - 229 - San Gabriel, 211. - San Juan Capistrano, 210. - San Luis Rey, 213. - San Miguel, 14. - Santa Barbara, 219. - Santa Inés, 220. - New Mexico. - Pecos, 50. - San Augustin, Isleta, 47. - San Estéban, Acoma, 75. - San Felipe, 52. - San José, Laguna, 81. - Santa Cruz, 38. - Texas. - Purísima Concepcion, 182. - San Fernando, 178. - San Francisco de la Espada, 190. - San José de Aguayo, 184. - San Juan Capistrano, 190. - Moenkopi Pueblo, 147. - Montezuma's Castle, 162, 166. - Montezuma's Well, 162, 170. - Morro, El, 93. - Mount Lowe, 209. - Mount Taylor, 112. - Mount Wilson, 209. - Mountainair, 58. - - - N - Nambé Pueblo, 24. - National Monuments: - Bandelier, 33. - Casa Grande, 200. - El Morro, 93. - Gran Quivira, 62. - Grand Cañon, 150. - Montezuma Castle, 164. - Navajo, 148. - Petrified Forests of Arizona, 135. - Tonto, 192. - Tumacácori, 198. - Navajo blanket, origin of, 110. - Navajo Indian Reservation, 102. - Navajo Sacred Mountains, 111. - - - O - Oak Creek Cañon, 141. - Ojai Valley, 220. - Ojo Caliente, 92. - Ojo del Gigante, 67. - Oñate, Juan de, 4, 7, 26, 95, 97. - Oraibi Pueblo, 118. - Otowi, 32. - - - P - Padre Padilla's Coffin, 47. - Painted Desert, 117, 134, 141, 145. - Painted Rocks of Abó, 64. - Pajarito Park, 32. - 230 - Pala, 214. - Palm Springs, 218. - Pasadena, 207. - Pecos National Forest, 41. - Pecos Pueblo, 50. - Pelado Peak, 111. - Penitentes, Order of, 36. - Petrified Forest of Arizona, 130. - Phoenix, 189. - Photographing Indians, 23. - Pimería Alta, 188. - Popé, 26, 28. - Pueblo Bonito, 83. - Pueblo Indians, characteristics, 23. - Puyé, 31. - - - Q - Quaraí, 11, 64. - - - R - Rainbow Forest, 135. - Ramah, 93, 100. - Ramirez, Fr. Juan, 72. - Redlands, 208. - Red Rock Country, 149, 163. - Rito de los Frijoles, 33, 54, 63. - Riverside, 208, 218. - Roosevelt Dam, 189, 191. - - - S - San Antonio, 176. - San Diego, 213. - San Felipe Pueblo, 52. - San Francisco Mountain, 112, 140. - San Francisco Peaks, 125, 138, 139. - San Gabriel Mission, 211. - San Ildefonso Pueblo, 25. - San Juan Pueblo, 25. - San Matéo Mountain, 111. - San Xavier del Bac Mission, 192, 194. - Sandía Pueblo, 49. - Santa Ana Pueblo, 50. - Santa Barbara, 219. - Santa Catalina Island, 218. - Santa Clara Pueblo, 25. - Santa Cruz Valley, N. M., 35. - Santa Cruz Valley, Ariz., 193. - Santa Cruz de la Canada, N. M., 37. - Santa Fe, 1. - Santa Inés Mission, 220. - Santa Mónica, 210. - Santo Domingo Pueblo, 52. - Santo Niño, 37. - Santuario, 34, 39. - Shálako Dance, Zuñi, 88. - Shimópovi Pueblo, 118. - Shípapu, 27. - Shipaúlovi Pueblo, 118. - Shongópovi Pueblo, 118. - Sia Pueblo, 51. - Sichúmovi Pueblo, 118. - 231 - Simpson, Lieut., J. H., 94. - Stages, Modern Auto-, 165. - Steamboat Rock, 117. - St. Michael's Mission, 105, 116. - - - T - Tabirá, 59. - Tajique, 11. - Taos, 27. - Tchrega, 32. - Tesuque Pueblo, 20. - Tewa Pueblo, 118, 128. - Topanga Cañon, 210. - Towa-yálleni, 85, 90. - Truchas Peaks, 42. - Tsankawi, 32. - Tuba, 147. - Tubac, 197, 199. - Tucson, 192. - Tumacácori, 198. - Tyuonyi, 33, 65. - - - V - Vargas, Diego de, 7, 12, 25, 49, 90, 95, 98. - Verde Valley, 162. - - - W - Wallace, Lew, 11. - Walnut Cañon, 138. - Walpi Pueblo, 118, 123. - Warner's Hot Springs, 217. - Whittier, 209, 210. - Wide House Ruins, 136. - Winslow, 116. - - - Z - Zárate, Fr. Ascencio de, 12. - Zuñi, 82. - - - - - Glacier National Park - - -Every day brings a new experience--crowded with scenic delight--at -Glacier National Park--Uncle Sam's playground in the Montana Rockies. - -Maybe you are going over the "Notch"--sky-high Gunsight Pass--on a -surefooted horse--a real mountaineer experience. Perhaps you're gliding -amid tremendous scenes over a modern motor trail through the thick of -the wilds. Another day, you pow-wow with the picturesque Blackfeet -Indians. - -Send for descriptive literature with maps and photographic views of the -Park's beauty spots and definite information as to cost. Write - - C. E. STONE - Passenger Traffic Manager - ST. PAUL, MINN. - -[Illustration] - - - - - Outwest Outings - "Off the beaten path" - New Mexico and Arizona - - - Rainbow Bridge - Grand Canyon of Arizona - Petrified Forest - Painted Desert - Ancient Indian Pueblos - Prehistoric Cliff Ruins - New Mexico Rockies - Santa Fe - - Ask for new booklet - "Off the beaten Path" - of Maps and Pictures - W. J. Black, Pass. Traf. Mgr. - AT&SF Ry--1118 Ry. Exch. Chi· - -[Illustration] - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Some palpable typographical errors were corrected. - ---Copyright and publisher's information was included from the printed - copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the -Southwest, by Charles Francis Saunders - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - -***** This file should be named 50933-8.txt or 50933-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/9/3/50933/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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