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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c59f9ac --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #50933 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50933) diff --git a/old/50933-0.txt b/old/50933-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 87c23c0..0000000 --- a/old/50933-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5011 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the Southwest, by -Charles Francis Saunders - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Finding the Worth While in the Southwest - -Author: Charles Francis Saunders - -Release Date: January 15, 2016 [EBook #50933] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - - Finding the Worth While - in the Southwest - - - BY - CHARLES FRANCIS SAUNDERS - Author of “Finding the Worth While in California,” - “The Indians of the Terraced Houses,” etc. - - - _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_ - - “The Sun goes West, - Why should not I?” - _Old Song._ - - - NEW YORK - ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY - 1918 - - Copyright, 1918, by - Robert M. McBride & Co. - - Published May, 1918 - - TO - M. H. R. - Kinswoman most dear - This little volume is affectionately inscribed. - - - - - PREFACE - - -No part of the United States is so foreign of aspect as our great -Southwest. The broad, lonely plains, the deserts with their mystery and -color, the dry water courses, the long, low mountain chains seemingly -bare of vegetation, the oases of cultivation where the fruits of the -Orient flourish, the brilliant sunshine, the deliciousness of the pure, -dry air—all this suggests Syria or northern Africa or Spain. Added to -this are the remains everywhere of an old, old civilization that once -lived out its life here—it may have been when Nineveh was building or -when Thebes was young. Moreover, there is the contemporary interest of -Indian and Mexican life such as no other part of the country affords. - -In this little volume the author has attempted, in addition to outlining -practical information for the traveler, to hint at this wealth of human -association that gives the crowning touch to the Southwest’s charm of -scenery. The records of Spanish explorers and missionaries, the legends -of the aborigines (whose myths and folklore have been studied and -recorded by scholars like Bandelier, Matthews, Hough, Cushing, -Stevenson, Hodge, Lummis, and others) furnish the raw material of a -great native literature. Painters long since discovered the fascination -of our Southwest; writers, as yet, have scarcely awakened to it. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - I Santa Fe, the Royal City of St. Francis’s Holy Faith 1 - II The Upper Rio Grande, its Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings 20 - III Roundabout Albuquerque 43 - IV The Dead Cities of the Salines 56 - V Of Acoma, City of the Marvellous Rock; and Laguna 68 - VI To Zuñi, the Center of the Earth, via Gallup 82 - VII El Morro, the Autograph Rock of the Conquistadores 93 - VIII The Storied Land of the Navajo 102 - IX The Homes of the Hopis, Little People of Peace 116 - X The Petrified Forest of Arizona 130 - XI Flagstaff as a Base 137 - XII The Grand Cañon of the Colorado River in Arizona 150 - XIII Montezuma’s Castle and Well, Which Montezuma Never Saw 162 - XIV San Antonio 176 - XV In the Country of the Giant Cactus 188 - XVI Southern California 204 - A Postscript on Climate, Ways and Means 222 - Index 227 - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - FACING PAGE - An Acoma Indian Dance 72 - Laguna, the Mother Pueblo of Seven 73 - Bead Maker, Zuñi Pueblo 82 - A Street in Acoma Pueblo 83 - Old Church, Acoma Pueblo 88 - A Sunny Wall in Zuñi 89 - Casa Blanca or White House 116 - El Morro or Inscription Rock, N. M. 117 - In the North Petrified Forest 135 - A Corner in Santa Fe, N. M. 136 - Old Governor’s Palace, Santa Fe, N. M. 162 - Montezuma’s Castle 163 - San José de Aguayo 184 - San Xavier del Bac, Arizona 185 - - - - - CHAPTER I - SANTA FE—THE ROYAL CITY OF SAINT FRANCIS’S HOLY FAITH - - -Someone—I think it was that picturesque historian of our Southwest, Mr. -Charles F. Lummis—has summed up New Mexico as “sun, silence and adobe;” -and of these three components the one that is apt to strike the Eastern -newcomer most forcibly is adobe. This homely gift of nature—hard as -brick in dry weather, plastic as putty and sticky as glue in wet—is the -bulwark of the New Mexican’s well-being. His crops are raised in it; he -fences in his cattle with it; he himself lives in it; for of it are -built those colorless, square, box-like houses, flat-roofed and eaveless -which, on our first arrival in New Mexico, we declared an architectural -abomination, and within a week fell eternally in love with. An adobe -house wall is anywhere from two to five feet thick, a fact that conduces -to coolness in summer, warmth in winter, and economy at all seasons. -Given possession of a bit of ground, you grub up a few square yards of -the earth, mix it with water and wheat chaff, and shovel the mixture -into a wooden mold. You then lift the mold and lo! certain big, brown -bricks upon the ground. These the fiery New Mexican sun bakes hard for -you in a couple of days—bricks that are essentially the same as those of -ancient Babylon and Egypt, and the recipe for which (received by the -Spanish probably from their Moorish conquerors) is one of Spain’s most -valued contributions to America. Old Santa Fe was built entirely of this -material, and most of latter day Santa Fe still is, though there is a -growing disposition on the part of the well-to-do to substitute burned -brick and concrete. - -As a rule these adobe dwellings are of one story, and the more -pretentious are constructed partly or entirely about an inner court, -such as in Spain is called a _patio_, but in New Mexico a _plazita_, -that is, a little plaza. A cheerful sanctuary is this _plazita_, where -trees cast dappled shadows and hollyhocks and marigolds bloom along the -sunny walls. Upon it the doors and windows of the various rooms open, -and here the family life centers. By the kitchen door Trinidad prepares -her _frijoles_ and chili, while the children tease her for tidbits; upon -the grass the house rugs and _serapes_ are spread on cleaning days, in -kaleidoscopic array, and beaten within an inch of their lives; here, of -summer evenings Juan lounges and smokes and Juanita swings in the -hammock strumming a guitar, or the family gramophone plays “La -Golondrina.” - -Comparisons are always invidious, but if there be among the cities of -the United States, one that is richer in picturesqueness, in genuine -romance, in varied historic, archaeologic and ethnologic interest, than -Santa Fe, it has still I think to make good its claims. The distinction -of being the oldest town in our country, as has sometimes been claimed, -is, however, not Santa Fe’s.[1] Indeed, the exact date of its founding -is still subject to some doubt, though the weight of evidence points to -1605. Nor was it even the original white settlement in New Mexico. That -honor belongs to the long since obliterated San Gabriel, the site of -which was on or near the present-day hamlet of Chamita, overlooking the -Rio Grande about 35 miles north of Santa Fe. There in 1598 the conqueror -of New Mexico, Don Juan de Oñate (a rich citizen of Zacatecas, and the -Spanish husband, by the way, of a granddaughter of Montezuma) -established his little capital, maintaining it there until the second -town was founded. To this latter place was given the name _La Villa Real -de Santa Fé de San Francisco de Asís_—the Royal City of Saint Francis of -Assisi’s Holy Faith. Naturally that was too large a mouthful for daily -use, and it was long ago pared down to just Santa Fe, though Saint -Francis never lost his status as the city’s patron. In point of -antiquity, the most that can justly be claimed for it is that it is the -first permanent white settlement in the West. - -The situation of Santa Fe is captivating, in the midst of a sunny, -breeze-swept plain in the lap of the Southern Rockies, at an elevation -of 7000 feet above the sea. Through the middle of the city flows the -little, tree-bordered Rio de Santa Fé, which issues a couple of miles -away from a gorge in the imposing Sierra Sangre de Cristo (the Mountains -of the Blood of Christ), whose peaks, often snow-clad, look majestically -down in the north from a height of 10,000 to 13,000 feet. The town is -reached from Lamy[2] by a branch of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe -Railway, which climbs due north for 18 miles through an uninhabitated -waste dotted with low-growing piñon, juniper and scrub. At the station a -small army of bus, hack and automobile men greet you with enthusiasm, -and to reach your hotel you have only the choice of them or your own -trotters, for street cars there are none. In Santa Fe, however, no place -is far from any other place—the population is but a scant 8500. Of these -a large percentage is of Spanish blood, and Spanish speech and Spanish -signs engage your attention on every hand. - -The hub of the city is the Plaza—warm and sunny in winter, shady and -cool in summer. Seated here on a bench you soon arrive at a lazy man’s -notion of the sort of place you are in. Here the donkeys patter by laden -with firewood—dearest of Santa Fe’s street pictures; here Mexican -peddlers of apples and _dulces_, _piñones_ and shoe-strings ply their -mild trade, and Tesuque Indians, with black hair bound about with -scarlet _bandas_, pass by to the trader’s, their blankets bulging with -native pottery, or, in season, their wagons loaded with melons, grapes, -apples, and peaches. Of afternoons the newsboys loiter about crying the -papers, and you have a choice of your news in English or Spanish; and on -Sundays and holidays the band plays athletically in its little kiosk, -the crowd promenading around and around the while very much as in Old -Mexico, and strewing the ground behind it with piñon and peanut shells. - -Close to the Plaza, too, cluster many of the historied spots of Santa -Fe; indeed, the Plaza itself is a chief one. On this bit of ground it is -confidently believed that Oñate must have camped in 1605—if it was -1605—when the capital was transferred from San Gabriel; and there is no -doubt whatever that here was the seething center of the famous Pueblo -revolt of 1680, when 3000 infuriated Indians cooped the entire Spanish -population of Santa Fe within the Governor’s Palace opposite, and kept -them there for a week. Then the whites made a brave sortie, caught and -hanged 50 Indians in the Plaza and escaped to Old Mexico—their exit -being celebrated shortly afterwards in this same Plaza by the Indians’ -making a bonfire of all Spanish archives and church belongings they -could lay hands on. Here 13 years later came De Vargas, the re-conqueror -of New Mexico (bearing it is said the very standard under which Oñate -had marched in the original conquest), and with his soldiers knelt -before the reinstated cross. And it was in this Plaza in 1846, during -our Mexican War, that General Stephen Kearny ran up the Stars and -Stripes and took possession of the territory in the name of the United -States. It was the Plaza, too, that formed the western terminus of the -Old Santa Fe Trail—that famous highway of trade that bound New Mexico -with Anglo-Saxondom throughout the Mexican regime in the Southwest and -until the iron horse and Pullman cars superseded mules and Conestoga -wagons. At the old adobe hotel known as La Fonda, a remnant of which -still stands at this writing just across from the southeast corner of -the Plaza, travelers and teamsters, plainsmen and trappers found during -half a century that boisterous brand of cheer dear to the pioneer -soul—cheer made up quite largely of cards, _aguardiente_ and the freedom -of firearms, but gone now, let us trust, out of the world forever since -the world has lost its frontiers. - -Facing the Plaza on the north is the ancient _Palacio Real_ or -Governor’s Palace—a long, one-storied adobe building occupying the -length of the block, and faced with the covered walk or portico (they -call such a _portal_ in New Mexico) which in former years was a feature -of every building of importance in Santa Fe. Within its thick walls for -nearly three centuries the governors of New Mexico resided—Spaniards, -Pueblo Indians, Spaniards again, Mexicans and finally Americans.[3] In -1909 the building was set aside as the home of the Museum of New Mexico -(since removed to a handsome edifice of its own in the New Mexico style -of architecture across the street), and of the School of American -Research.[4] Some careful restoration work was then done, necessary to -remove modern accretions and lay bare certain interesting architectural -features incorporated by the original builders, such as the handwrought -woodwork, the fireplaces, doorways, etc., so that the edifice as it -appears today is outwardly very much as it must have looked a century or -two ago. The festoons of dried Indian ears, however, which are said to -have been a rather constant adornment of the _portal_ in old times, are -now, to the relief of sensitive souls, humanely absent. Within, the -Palace is a mine of information for the curious in the history, -archaeology and ethnology of our Southwest, and a leisurely visit to it -makes a useful preliminary to one’s travels about the State. The -building is open to all without charge. - -A short block from the Plaza is the Cathedral of San Francisco, whose -unfinished trunks of towers are a prominent feature in Santa Fe’s low -sky-line. You may or may not get something from a visit to it. It is a -modern structure, still incomplete, built upon and about an older church -believed to date from 1622. Beneath the altar reposes all that is mortal -of two seventeenth century Franciscan missionaries to the New Mexico -aborigines. Of one of these, Padre Gerónimo de la Llana, I cannot -forbear a word of mention. He was a true brother of Saint Francis, and -for many years ministered lovingly to the Indians of the long since -ruined pueblo of Quaraí, a place of which more later. At Quaraí he died -in 1659, and his body was interred in the old church there whose walls -still stand, one of the most striking ruins in New Mexico. To his -Indians he was no less than a saint, and when (under attacks from -Apaches, doubtless) they abandoned their pueblos about 1670, they bore -with them what remained of their dear _padre santo_ to Tajique, a pueblo -some 15 miles distant, and buried him there. But in those days Apaches -never ceased from raiding, and from Tajique, too, some years later, -those Pueblo folk were forced to flee—this time across the rugged Sierra -Manzano to Isleta on the Rio Grande. That was a journey of too great -hardship, I suppose, to admit of carrying the now crumbled padre with -them; so he was left in his unmarked tomb in a savage-harried land, to -be quite forgotten until 85 years later (in 1759) pious old Governor F. -A. Marin del Valle heard of him. A search was speedily set on foot and -after a long quest the bones of Padre Gerónimo were found, brought to -Santa Fe, and becomingly once more interred. Then, alas! the poor -brother dropped out of mind again until in 1880, when during some work -upon the new Cathedral, the discovery of an inscription set in the wall -121 years before by Governor del Valle led to the finding of the grave. -I think you will be interested to read the quaint Spanish epitaphs of -this fine old friar, and of his companion, too, Padre Asencio de Zárate, -sometime of Picurís pueblo. They may be found behind the high altar, -which hides them. - -Also in the Cathedral, it is believed, rests the mortality of Don Diego -de Vargas, _el Reconquistador_, but unmarked. You will find many an echo -of him in Santa Fe, for he it was who in 1692 re-conquered New Mexico -for Spain after the Pueblo uprising of 1680 had swept the Spaniards out -of the province and for twelve years kept them out. Every year in June -Santa Fe celebrates its De Vargas Day, when a procession, bearing at its -head an image of the Virgin, marches from the Cathedral to the little -Rosario Chapel that is dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary (or as Santa -Féans sometimes call her, _La Conquistadora_, the Lady Conqueror). It -occupies the spot, on the city outskirts, where according to tradition -De Vargas knelt on the eve of his second entry into the capital -(December 16, 1693), and invoking the blessing of the Virgin upon his -arms, promised her a chapel if she vouchsafed him victory on the morrow. -It is a scant half-hour’s stroll thither from the Plaza, and you will -enjoy the walk through the city’s half foreign scenes, though the -building itself is disappointing because of its handling by tasteless -renovators. Much more picturesque, though modernized with an astonishing -steeple, is the little church of Guadalupe, standing amid Lombardy -poplars on the south bank of the river. A quiet, reposeful, little -temple, this, with beautifully carved ceiling beams and a curious, if -crude, altar-piece representing the appearances of Mexico’s Heavenly -Patroness to Juan Diego. - -Of the churches in Santa Fe, however, the one that is made most of by -visitors, is the square-towered adobe of San Miguel. It is a pleasant -twenty-minute walk from the Plaza (and, by all means, do walk when you -go, for the way thither is too picturesque to be whisked over in an -automobile)—through quiet, unpaved streets lined with one-storied adobe -houses and often too narrow to accommodate any but a mere thread of -sidewalk, where you bump into burros and, like as not, have utter -strangers tip their hats to you with a _buenos dias, señor_. You pass -the Bishop’s sequestered gardens and the high-walled grounds of the -Convent and Academy of the Sisters of Loretto, with glimpses through a -postern gate of old-fashioned flower beds; and further on, the touching -little cemetery of the Sisters, each simple grave marked by a cross -whereon vines and fragrant flowers lean lovingly; and so, on stepping -stones, to the south side of the little Rio de Santa Fe. Then mounting -the hill past more gardens where hollyhocks—_la barra de San José_ (St. -Joseph’s rod) the New Mexicans call them—nod at you over the walls, and -children prattle in Spanish and women sing at their work, there you are -before old San Miguel. - -Your first feeling is a bit of a shock, for the renovator’s hand has -fallen heavily upon San Miguel and, frankly speaking, it is a rather -hideous old church as viewed from the street. When, however, you have -rung the sacristan’s bell and a Christian Brother from the adjoining -Catholic college has come with the keys to usher you within, you pass in -a twinkling into the twilight heart of the Seventeenth Century. Here are -blackened, old religious paintings said to have been carried by the -Conquistadores as standards of defense in battle; a wonderful old bell -inscribed with a prayer to St. Joseph and bearing an all but illegible -date that looks surprisingly like 1356, and maybe it is; a charming old -wooden cross-beam supporting the _coro_, or choir gallery, its color -mellowed by time and its surface carved with rude but beautiful flutings -and flourishes by some long-vanished hand of the wilderness; and so -on—all delightfully embellished by the naïve expositions of the kindly -Brother who acts as cicerone. And do not leave without a glimpse through -the side door of the sunny quiet garden close, that lies between the -church and the college building. As to the age of San Miguel, there has -been much misinformation given—claims of its dating from 1543 being -quite groundless. The known fact is that it was established as a chapel -for the Mexican (Tlascalan) Indians who were part of the original Santa -Fe colony. It therefore dates from some time on the hither side of 1605. -In 1680 it suffered partial destruction in the Pueblo uprising, though -its walls survived; and, after some repairs by order of De Vargas, it -was finally restored completely in 1710, by the Spanish governor of that -time, the Marquis de la Peñuela. The record of this fact inscribed in -Spanish upon the main beam of the gallery is still one of the -interesting “bits” in the church. Probably it is safe to call San Miguel -the oldest existing building for Christian worship in the United States. - -If you are in a hurry you may “do” Santa Fe and its immediate environs -in a carriage or an automobile in a couple of days, and departing -secretly think it a rather overrated little old place. To get into the -atmosphere of it, however, you should drop hurry at its gates and make -up your mind to spend at least a week there, and longer if you can. -Lounge in the Plaza and watch the ebb and flow of the city life that -gathers here; drop into the Indian trading stores and get a taste for -aboriginal art. White man’s schooling has brought about of late years a -decline in the quality of Indian handicraft, but there is still a lot of -interest in these Santa Fe curio shops—Navajo and Chímayo blankets, -Pueblo pottery, Navajo silver jewelry, Apache baskets, moccasins, -bead-work, quaint tobacco pouches, Spanish and Mexican things—_serapes_, -_mantillas_, rusty daggers, old silver snuff boxes—and what not. Mount -the hill at the city’s northern edge, and sit on the ruined walls of the -old _garita_ (where the Mexican customs used to be levied upon imports -by the Santa Fe Trail). There you get a magnificent bird’s-eye view of -the city in its mountain fastness, and if the day be waning you will -have a sunset for your benediction, long to remember. Extend your -rambles sometimes to the outskirts for unadvertised sights—the little -ranches with their outdoor threshing floors of beaten earth where in -August you may see the wheat tramped out by horses, sheep or goats, and -winnowed by tossing in the breeze; _paisanas_ washing their linen on -stones by the brookside as in Italy or Spain; and the gaunt _descansos_ -or crosses of rest, marking stopping places of funerals, and carving in -illiterate Spanish scrawled upon the wood, prayers for the repose of -departed souls. If you are fortunate enough to have a little Spanish, -your enjoyment will be enhanced by stopping at humble doorways for a bit -of chat with Juan Bautista the woodchopper, or Maria Rosalía the -laundress. You will be civilly welcome, if you yourself are civil, and -be handed a chair, if there be one, and will be refreshed to learn -something of the essential oneness and kindliness of the human family -whether clothed in white skin or brown. It is this pervading air of Old -Worldliness that makes the peculiar charm of Santa Fe for the leisurely -traveler—its romance and its history are not altogether hidden away in -books, but are an obvious part of its living present. - -Moreover, Santa Fe is the starting point for numerous interesting -out-of-town trips. These are story for another chapter.[5] - - - - - CHAPTER II - THE UPPER RIO GRANDE, ITS PUEBLOS AND ITS CLIFF DWELLINGS - - -Of course you must make the trip—a half day will suffice for it—from -Santa Fe to Tesuque, a village of the Pueblo Indians 9 miles to the -north, and you should pronounce it _Te-soo´kay_. If your knowledge of -Indians has been limited to the variety seen in Wild West Shows and -historical pictures, you will be surprised at those you find at Tesuque. -This is a quaint adobe village around a spacious plaza upon which an -ancient, whitewashed Catholic church faces. The houses when of more than -one story are built terrace-like, so that the roof of the first story -forms a front yard to the second. Ladders lean against the outer walls, -by which access is gained to the upper rooms. The population of about -150 live very much like their Mexican neighbors, raising by irrigation -crops of corn, beans, peaches, melons, and alfalfa, accepting meanwhile -from the liberal hand of Nature rabbits, _piñones_ and wild plums, and -pasturing sheep and cattle on the communal pueblo lands which Spain -granted them centuries ago and which our Government confirmed to them -upon the acquisition of New Mexico. Their method of town building is not -borrowed from the whites, but is their own; and because the Spanish -Conquistadores of the sixteenth century found the region sprinkled with -such permanent villages, called _pueblos_ in Spanish, they named the -people Pueblo Indians—a term which well characterizes them in -contra-distinction to the nomadic tribes, whose villages moved as the -tribe moved. - -Tesuque is a type of a score or so of pueblos scattered along a line of -some 300 miles in northern New Mexico and Arizona. Formerly the dress of -these Indians was quite distinctive, but association with the whites has -modified its quality of late years, though it still retains some of the -old features—particularly in the case of the women, who are more -disposed than the men to conservatism. Their native costume is a dark -woolen gown belted at the waist and falling a little below the knees, -and a sort of cape of colored muslin fastened about the neck and hanging -down the back. The lower part of the legs is often swathed in a buckskin -extension of the moccasins in which the feet are encased. The hair is -banged low upon the forehead and both women’s and men’s are clubbed at -the back and bound with red yarn. The native attire of the men is a -loose cotton shirt worn outside short, wide trousers. Instead of a hat a -narrow _banda_ of colored cotton or silk is bound about the hair. - -Each village has its local government—and a very competent sort it is—of -a democratic nature, a governor, as well as a few other officials, being -elected annually by popular vote. Besides these, there is a permanent -council of old men who assist in the direction of affairs. Most of the -Pueblo Indians are nominal adherents to Roman Catholicism, but have by -no means lost hold of their pagan faith. On the patron saint’s day a -public fiesta is always held. After mass in the church, there are native -dances and ceremonies, accompanied by feasting continuing well into the -night. November 12, St. James’s Day, is the day celebrated by Tesuque, -and visitors are many.[6] - -The Pueblos are as a class industrious, fun-loving, and friendly to -white visitors. They are naturally hospitable and quickly responsive to -any who treat them sympathetically and as fellow human beings. The -lamentable fact that white Americans have too often failed in this -respect, acting towards them as though they were animals in a zoo, is -largely responsible for tales we hear of Indian surliness and ill-will. -Pueblo women are skillful potters, and while Tesuque does not now excel -in this art, one may pick up some interesting souvenirs both in clay and -beadwork. At any rate, you will enjoy seeing these things being made in -the common living-room of the house, while the corn is being ground on -the _metates_ or mealing stones, and the mutton stew simmers on the open -hearth. A knowledge of values first obtained at reputable traders’ shops -in Santa Fe, is advisable, however, before negotiating directly with the -Indians, as they are becoming pretty well schooled in the art of -charging “all the traffic will bear.” Tesuque produces a specialty in -the shape of certain dreadful little pottery images called “rain gods,” -which must not be taken seriously as examples of sound Pueblo art.[7] - -Thirty-three miles north of Santa Fe on the Denver and Rio Grande -Railway is the village of Española, where a plain but comfortable hotel -makes a convenient base for visiting several points of interest in the -upper Rio Grande Valley. A mile to the south is Santa Clara pueblo,[8] -long famous for its beautiful shining black pottery almost Etruscan in -shape. The clay naturally burns red, but a second baking with the fuel -(dried chips of cattle manure), pulverized finely and producing a dense -black smoke, gives the ware its characteristic lustrous black. Seven -miles further down the river but on the other side, is another pueblo, -San Ildefonso, a picturesque village of 125 Indians, near the base of La -Mesa Huérfana. This is a flat-topped mountain of black lava, on whose -summit in 1693, several hundred Pueblos entrenched themselves and for -eight months stubbornly resisted the attempts of the Spanish under De -Vargas to bring them to terms. That was practically the last stand of -Pueblo rebeldom, which thirteen years before had driven every Spaniard -from the land. San Ildefonso has public fiestas on January 23 and -September 6. - -Six miles north of Española and close to the Rio Grande is San Juan -pueblo, with a population of about 400 Indians. Here one is in the very -cradle of the white civilization of the Southwest. At this spot in the -summer of 1598, Don Juan de Oñate—he of the Conquest—arrived with his -little army of Spaniards, his Franciscan missionaries, his colonist -families, a retinue of servants and Mexican Indians, his wagons and -cattle, to found the capital of the newly won “kingdom” later to be -called New Mexico. The courtesy of the Indians there, who temporarily -gave up their own houses to the Spaniards, was so marked that their -pueblo became known as _San Juan de los Caballeros_ (Saint John of the -Gentlemen). Oñate’s settlement—of which no vestige now remains—is -believed to have been situated just across the Rio Grande from San Juan, -about where the hamlet and railway station of Chamita now stands. San -Juan pueblo is further distinguished as the birthplace of Popé, the -Indian to whose executive genius is due the success of the Pueblo -Rebellion of 1680. A picturesque figure, that same Popé, of the timber -dramatic heroes are made of. It is said that, while meditating the -rebellion, he journeyed to the enchanted lagoon of Shípapu, the place -where in the dim past the Pueblos had emerged from the underworld and -whither they return at death. There he conferred with the spirits of his -ancestors, who endued him with power to lead his people to victory.[9] -The San Juan women make a good black pottery similar to that of Santa -Clara. On Saint John’s Day, June 24, occurs a public fiesta, with -procession and dances, attracting visitors, white and red, from far and -near. - -Having got thus far up the Rio Grande, let nothing deter you from -visiting Taos (they pronounce it _Towss_). By automobile it is about 50 -miles northeast of Española or you can reach it quite expeditiously by -Denver & Rio Grande train to Taos Junction and auto-connection thence -about 30 miles to Taos.[10] Situated in a fertile plain, 7000 feet above -the sea, in the heart of the Southern Rockies, Taos is one of the most -charming places in America. It is in three parts. There is the outlying -hamlet Ranchos de Taos; then the picturesque Mexican town Fernandez de -Taos, famous in recent years for a resident artist colony whose pictures -have put Taos in the world of art; and lastly, there is the pueblo of -Taos. From very early times the pueblo has played an important role in -New Mexican history. It was here the San Juaneño Popé found the readiest -response to his plans of rebellion. Later the location on the confines -of the Great Plains made it an important trading center with the more -northern Indians. The annual summer fair for _cambalache_, or traffic by -barter, held at Taos in the latter part of the eighteenth century, was a -famous event, the Plains tribes bringing skins and furs and Indian -captives to trade for horses, beads and metal implements. The commercial -opportunities combined with the fertility of the soil and an unfailing -water supply led to the founding of Fernandez de Taos by whites. In the -days of Mexican supremacy part of the traffic over the Santa Fe Trail -passed this way and a custom house was here. The ruins of a large adobe -church in the pueblo form a memento of the troublous days of 1847, when -a small rebellion participated in by Mexicans and a few Taos Indians -took place here and the American governor, Bent, was murdered. At -Fernandez de Taos, the famous frontiersman Kit Carson lived for many -years, and here his grave may still be seen. - -Taos pueblo, housing an Indian population of about 500, is the most -northern in New Mexico, and perhaps the most perfect specimen existing -of Pueblo architecture. It consists of two imposing pyramidal house -clusters of 5 to 7 stories—aboriginal apartment houses—and between them -happily flows the little Rio de Taos sparkling out of the Glorieta Cañon -near whose mouth the pueblo stands. The three-mile drive or walk from -Fernandez de Taos is very lovely, with the pueblo’s noble background of -mountains before you, their purple and green flanks wonderfully mottled -and dashed in autumn with the gold of the aspen forests. The men of Taos -are a tall, athletic sort, quite different in appearance from the more -southern Pueblos. They wear the hair parted in the middle and done at -the side in two braids which hang in front of the shoulders. They are -much addicted to their blankets; and one often sees them at work with -the blankets fastened about the waist and falling to the knees like a -skirt. In warm weather they sometimes substitute a muslin sheet for the -woolen blanket, and few sights are more striking than a Taos man thus -muffled to his eyebrows in pure white. - -Annually on September 30th occurs the _Fiesta de San Gerónimo de Taos_, -which is one of the most largely attended of all Pueblo functions. -Crowds of Americans, Mexicans and Indians (a sprinkling of Apaches among -Pueblos of several sorts) line the terraced pyramids and make a scene so -brilliant and strange that one wonders that it can be in America. The -evening before, near sundown, there is a beautiful Indian dance in the -plaza of the pueblo, the participants bearing branches of quivering -aspens. With the sunset light upon the orange and yellow of the foliage -as the evening shadows gather, it is an unforgettable sight. Yes, you -must by all means see Taos. There are hotel accommodations at Fernandez -de Taos.[11] - -But Española serves, too, as a base for outings of quite another sort. -One of these is to the remarkable prehistoric cliff village known as the -Puyé in the Santa Clara Cañon, about 10 miles west of Española. Here at -the edge of a pine forest a vast tufa cliff rises, its face marked with -pictographs of unknown antiquity and honeycombed with dwellings of a -vanished people, probably ancestors, of some of the present-day -Pueblos.[12] These cliff chambers are quite small, and their walls bear -still the soot from prehistoric fires. Climbing by an ancient trail to -the summit of the mesa of which the cliff is a side, you come upon the -leveled ruins of what was once a magnificent, terraced community house, -built of tufa blocks and containing hundreds of rooms. Rambling from -room to room, picking up now a bit of broken pottery, now a charred -corn-cob, poking into the ashes of fireplaces where the last embers were -quenched before history in America began, you experience, I hope, a -becoming sense of your youth as a white American. And the view from this -noble tableland—a view those ancient people had every day of their -lives! One wonders had they eyes to see it—the lovely valley of the Rio -Grande, purple chain after chain of mountains on every side, the jagged -peaks of the Sangre de Cristo, the Glorietas, the Jemes, and dim on the -far horizon, the Sierra Blanca in Colorado. - -Also dotting the same plateau (this region by the way, is now called -Pajarito[13] Park) are numerous other prehistoric community houses—the -Otowi (with its curious tent-like rock formations), the Tsánkawi, the -Tchrega—all of absorbing interest to the archaeologic mind, but offering -not much that seems new to the average tourist who has seen the Puyé. -One, however, known as the Tyuonyi in the cañon of the Rito de los -Frijoles[14] should not be missed. It may be reached via Buckman, a -station on the D. & R. G. 12 miles south of Española. Thence it is about -15 miles over all sorts of a road to the brink of Frijoles Cañon. A -steep foot-trail there leads you down, a thousand feet or more, into the -gorge and after a short walk you are at the comfortable ranch house of -Judge A. G. Abbott, custodian of the Bandelier National Monument, under -which name the neighboring ruins are officially designated by the United -States Government, which owns them.[15] Considered merely as scenery, -the little, secluded cañon is one of the loveliest spots in New Mexico, -with its stretches of emerald meadows, its perennial stream and its -peaceful forest of stately pines. But it is the human interest given by -the vacant houses of a forgotten race—the cavate dwellings of the pink -and white tufa cliffs and the ruined communal dwellings on the cañon -floor and on the mesa top near by—that brings most visitors. That noted -ethnologist, the late Adolf F. Bandelier, wrote a romance with the scene -laid here and at the Puyé. It is entitled “The Delightmakers,” and a -reading of it will not only lend a living interest to these places, but -yield a world of information as to the mind and customs of the Pueblo -Indians. Visitors have the School of American Archaeology at Santa Fe to -thank for the painstaking work of excavation extending over years, that -uncovered many of these ancient dwelling places of their centuries of -accumulated debris. - -To return to Española. Ten miles to the eastward in the valley of the -Santa Cruz river is the quaint little church of Santuario, a sort of New -Mexican Lourdes, famous these many years for its miraculous cures. A -trip thither makes a noteworthy day’s outing. It may be done by -automobile over a road of many tribulations, but a horse and buggy are -more satisfactory and far more in keeping with the primitive country. My -own visit was achieved on foot, eased by a lift of a couple of miles -from a kindly Mexican on horseback, who set me up behind him, _en -ancas_, as they call it. It was mid-August—a season which in northern -New Mexico is as sunshiny and showery as a sublimated Eastern April. The -intense blue of the sky was blotted here and there with piled-up cloud -masses, which broke at times in streamers of rain upon the purple ranges -of the Sangre de Cristo ahead of me—and after that, descending shafts of -light. As soon as I had crossed the Rio Grande and Española was behind -me, I was in pure Mexico. The Santa Cruz Valley is an agricultural -region, but it is the agriculture of centuries ago that is in vogue -there. Wheat, for instance, is trodden out by horses, sheep or goats, on -outdoor threshing floors of beaten earth, winnowed by tossing shovelfuls -into the air, washed of its grit and dirt in the nearest _acéquia_, then -spread out in the sun to dry, and finally ground in primitive little log -mills whose rumbling stones are turned by tiny water wheels. Little New -Mexican Davids, bare of foot and dreamy-eyed, loiter along behind their -nibbling flocks in the stubble of the shorn fields or the wild herbage -of the river bottom. Peaches and melons, onions and corn, lie drying on -the roofs, and strips of meat hang “jerking” from stretched lines in the -_plazitas_ of the houses. The cross is still a dominant feature in this -land of yesterday. Now it glitters on the belfry of the family chapel -among the trees of some ranch; now it is outlined against the sky on the -crest of a hill, a _calvario_ of the Penitentes;[16] now it crowns a -heap of stones by the wayside, where a funeral has stopped to rest. - -Of the villages strewn along this delightful way, some are hamlets of -half a dozen straggling little adobes drowsing under their rustling -cottonwoods. Others are more important. One particularly I -remember—Santo Niño. That means “village of the Holy Child,” and His -peace that placid morning seemed to rest upon it. The streets were -narrow shady lanes, where irrigation ditches running full made a -murmuring music, flowing now by adobe walls, now by picket fences where -hollyhocks and marigolds and morning-glories looked pleasantly out. It -was a village not of houses merely, but of comfortable old orchards, -too, and riotous gardens where corn and beans, chilis and melons locked -elbows in happy comradery. I think every one I met was Mexican—the women -in sombre black rebosos, the men more or less unkempt and -bandit-appearing in ample-crowned sombreros, yet almost without -exception offering me the courtesy of a raised hand and a _buenos dias, -señor_. Santa Cruz de la Cañada—another of these villages—deserves a -special word of mention, for next to Santa Fe it is the oldest -officially established _villa_ (a form of Spanish organized town), in -New Mexico, dating as such from 1695, though in its unincorporated state -antedating the Pueblo Rebellion. Long a place of importance, its ancient -glory paled as Santa Fe and Albuquerque grew. Today it numbers a scant -couple of hundred inhabitants, but it is interesting to the tourist for -its fine old church facing the grassy plaza of the village. The church -interior is enriched with a number of ancient pictures and carvings of -an excellence beyond one’s expectations. - -Then there is Chímayo, into which you pass just before crossing the -river to Santuario. To the general public Chímayo appeals because of its -blankets and its apricots, but to me it remains a place of tender memory -because of a certain hospitable _tienda de abarrotes_ (or, as we should -say, grocery store). Entering it in the hope of finding crackers and -cheese, wherewith to make a wayside luncheon, I was given instead a -characteristic Mexican meal as exquisitely cooked as ever I had; yet it -was but a couple of corn tortillas, a bowl of pink beans done to -liquidity, and a cup of black coffee. As to the blankets of Chímayo, -they are woven in sizes from a pillow-cover to a bed-spread, of -Germantown yarn, and you find them on sale everywhere in the curio shops -of the Southwest, competing in a modest way with the Navajo product. The -weaving is a fireside industry, prosecuted in the intervals of other -work both by women and men, and the bump-bump of the primitive looms is -the characteristic melody of the place. - -I had to ford the little river, shoes and stockings in hand, to reach -Santuario, and was not sure when I got there. An old _paisano_, sitting -in the shade of a wall, informed me, however, that the little cluster of -adobes on a hillside, into which I soon came from the river, was really -the place—“of great fame, señor. Here come people of all nations to be -cured—Mexicans, Americans, Apaches—from far, very far.” The adobe -church, half hidden behind some huge cottonwoods, was open—of crude -construction without and within, but very picturesque. Passing within -the wooden doors, which are curiously carved with a maze of lettering -that I found it impossible to decipher, I was in a twilight faintly -illumined by the shining of many candles set upon the floor in front of -a gaudy altar. Upon the walls hung beskirted figures of saints in -various colors and wearing tin crowns. There were, too, crude little -shrines upon which pilgrims had scrawled their names. A figure of San -Diego on horseback with a quirt on his wrist, cowboy style, was -particularly lively, I thought. In a room adjoining the altar is a hole -from which pilgrims take handfuls of earth—red adobe, apparently—the -outward instrumentality that is depended upon for the cures. - -The history of this queer chapel is interesting. Long before it was -built the efficacy of that hole of earth was believed far and wide, and -the place resorted to by health seekers. Finally in 1816 a pious -_paisano_ named Bernardo Abeyta, who had prospered greatly in his -affairs, was impelled to erect this church as a testimony of gratitude -to God. Dying he bequeathed it to Doña Carmen Chaves, his daughter, who -kept for all comers the church and its pit of healing, and lived in a -modest way upon the fees which grateful pilgrims bestowed upon her. -After her death, the property descended to her daughter, who maintains -it in the same way. It is said the fame of the spot is known even in old -Mexico, whence pilgrims sometimes come.[17] The earth is utilized either -internally dissolved in water, or outwardly made into a mud wash and -rubbed on the body. The chapel is dedicated to _El Señor de -Esquipulas_—the Christ of Esquipulas—Esquipulas being a little village -of Guatemala whose great church enshrines a famous image of the Lord -believed to perform miraculous cures. - -For a glimpse in small compass of the unsuspected picturesqueness of -rural New Mexico, I know of nothing better than this little jaunt from -Española to Santuario. - - NOTE: Horseback tours through the Pecos and Santa Fe National Forests - are practicabilities, with Santa Fe, Española or Buckman as a base. - There is a company or two at Santa Fe that make a specialty of - outfitting parties, furnishing riding and pack animals, cooks and all - needful accessories, for a fixed sum. Trout fishing is good in many of - the mountain streams. You may arrange your own itinerary, or if you do - not know what you want, trips will be outlined to suit your particular - interests. In the latter event, a consultation with the Supervisor of - the Santa Fe National Forest, whose office is in Santa Fe, would be - helpful. For people of sound wind who like to see the world from - mountain tops, a trip over the Dalton Trail to the Pecos River and - thence to the Truchas Peaks is repaying. From that elevation of about - 13,000 feet, there is a magnificent outlook over much of New Mexico - and some of Colorado and Arizona. - - - - - CHAPTER III - ROUNDABOUT ALBUQUERQUE - - -Albuquerque is the metropolis and trade heart of central New Mexico, and -the talk of its solid citizens runs naturally on cattle and wool, mines -and lumber, grapes and apples and the agricultural glories of the Rio -Grande valley. The average tourist gives it only the half-hour during -which the train stops there, and remembers it mainly for the noteworthy -Harvey Indian collection at the station (a liberal education, by the -way, in the handicraft of the Southwestern aborigines) and for the -snap-shots he tried to take (and was foiled in) of the picturesque -Pueblo pottery sellers on the platform.[18] In itself, indeed, the busy -little city has not a great deal that is distinctive enough to interest -tourists excepting the Spanish quarter known as Old Albuquerque, on the -outskirts—a picturesque survival of the Hispanic regime. There stands -the old church dedicated to the city’s patron saint, San Felipe. As a -base to visit certain other places, however, Albuquerque is very -convenient. For instance, there is the pueblo of Isleta, 12 miles south. - -It is from Isleta that many of the pottery makers come whom you see -offering their wares on the railway platform at Albuquerque, and a -pleasant day may be put in rambling about the streets of the pueblo, -chatting and trafficking with the hospitable people, who are a very -wide-awake, independent sort of Indians. You may go thither by train; or -you may drive (a much better way), following the west bank of the Rio -Grande, and enjoying the beauty of a typical bit of rural New Mexico, -now austere and sun-scorched, now relenting in vineyards, fields of corn -and lush alfalfa, and orchards of apple and peach, sandwiched between -sleepy little Mexican villages smothered in trees and old-fashioned -flowers. Much of New Mexico is as foreign in aspect as Spain, and the -flat-roofed, eaveless ranch houses, low and rambling, with enclosed -plazitas, and high-walled corrals adjoining, into which the teams are -driven at night and the gates shut to the outer world, bring to you the -atmosphere of Don Quixote or Lazarillo de Tormes. Architecturally, -Isleta differs widely from the orthodox pueblo type, its houses being -usually of one story and extended over a liberal area, as must needs be -to shelter its thousand or so of people. They are quite up-to-date -farmers, these Isleteños, and the pueblo is as busy at harvest time as a -beehive, what with fruit drying, corn husking, and alfalfa baling.[19] -Their homes are generally neatly kept, often adorned within with -bright-colored blankets, pretty water ollas, and the whitewashed walls -hung with pictures of Virgin and saints—impressing you as homes of a -thrifty and well-doing race. Indeed these people are reputed the richest -of all the Pueblos. It is, I believe, a matter of record that in 1862, -when a detachment of the United States army was stranded penniless in -New Mexico, an Isleta Indian loaned it $18,000 cash, simply taking the -commander’s receipt as evidence. After waiting patiently for twelve -years for the government to have the politeness to return the money -without being asked for it, and hearing nothing, he and the governor of -Isleta, accompanied by the local United States Indian agent, made a trip -to Washington to see about it. Through the personal interest of -President Grant, the money was at last returned. - -On August 28, St. Augustine’s Day, occurs the annual public fiesta, with -the usual open air Indian dances after mass in the church. The large -circular _estufa_, or native ceremonial chamber, entered by a ladder let -down through an opening in the roof, is a conspicuous feature of the -pueblo. You will find such places, in one form or another, in all the -Pueblo villages, and in the Cliff Dwellers’ towns. They were originally -used as the sleeping apartments of the men. Nowadays the men sleep at -home, but the _estufas_ are still resorted to by them as a sort of -club-room or lounge when religious ceremonies are not going on inside. -Despite membership in the Roman Catholic Church the average Pueblo’s -main hold on the unseen that is eternal is through his primitive pagan -faith, whose rites he still practices. Entrance to the _estufas_ is not, -as a rule, readily granted to white people, and should never be -undertaken without permission first obtained. As a matter of fact, there -is on ordinary occasions nothing to see but a dimly lighted chamber with -bare floor and walls, and a small, boxed-in fire-pit near the base of -the ladder. - -To the big old adobe church of Saint Augustine in the center of the -pueblo, there attaches a queer legend sure to delight the traveler whose -interest is less in historical verities than in the fanciful flights of -the human mind. I refer to the tradition of the Rising of Padre -Padilla’s Coffin. Among the Franciscan friars who accompanied Coronado -on his famous march to what he called Quivira—the country of the Wichita -Indians in Kansas—was Padre Juan de Padilla. This intrepid servant of -God (when Coronado turned homeward), remained with two lay brothers on -the Kansas plains with the view of Christianizing those Indians. The -outcome of the matter was that he was killed by them on November 30, -1544. Now tradition has it that somehow in the heavenly ordering, the -body of the martyred padre got miraculously transferred from Kansas to a -place under the church altar at Isleta; and it is firmly believed (and -the belief is backed up by the circumstantial testimony of solid -citizens) that periodically the coffin, which is a section of a hollowed -cottonwood trunk, rises plainly to view in the church, disclosing to -whomsoever may then be present, the padre rather mummified but still in -his black whiskers. To prove it there are people who will show you bits -of his gown nipped off surreptitiously by eye-witnesses and preserved as -precious amulets.[20] - -Northward from Albuquerque for 40 miles, the beautiful valley of the Rio -Grande contains much of appeal to the student of history and of Indian -life. That is the region called in the chronicle of Coronado’s -expedition, the Province of Tigüex (pronounced _tee-wesh_); and here -that doughty conquistador spent his first New Mexican winter (1540-41) -at a pueblo now vanished, in the neighborhood, it is believed, of the -picturesque town of Bernalillo[21] 17 miles north of Albuquerque. It was -a winter so marked with wanton deeds of deviltry by the soldiery towards -the peaceably disposed natives, that the whole region was soon seething -in revolt—but helpless revolt because of the guns and horses of those -profligate swashbucklers, who disgraced the Christianity they professed. - -Several pueblos are still extant in that stretch. There is Sandia, a -moribund little place 10 miles from Albuquerque, and within walking -distance of Alameda Station on the railway, but hardly worth the trip. -North of Bernalillo a couple of miles is a summer pueblo, Ranchitos de -Santa Ana (the little farms of Santa Ana), occupied during the growing -season by Indians whose home pueblo, Santa Ana, is a dozen miles to the -northwest in a virtual desert overlooking the saline flats of the Jemes -River. Thither they go to dwell in winter and eat up the crops raised in -summer beside the great river. In the same direction 13 miles beyond -Santa Ana (25 from Bernalillo) is the important pueblo of the Jemes -(_Hay´-mes_) Indians, about 500 in number.[22] The village is -beautifully situated at the mouth of San Diego Cañon. Its public fiesta -is held on St. James’s Day, November 12, and is much attended by -Americans, Mexicans, Pueblos, Navajos and Apaches. The region nearby is -sprinkled with ruins of old pueblos which are the subject of -considerable literature of the antiquarian sort. A capital and reliable -popular article on the Jemes Indians by Mr. A. B. Reagan, appeared in -the April, 1917, issue of “El Palacio,” the journal of the -Archaeological Society of New Mexico. A few miles before reaching Jemes -the traveler passes the once powerful, but now small pueblo of Sia -(_See-a_), with a population of barely 100. Its decline is attributed in -part to remorseless inter-killing on suspicion of witchcraft, a sort of -superstition that the Pueblos, unlike ourselves, have not yet outgrown. -Its festival is on August 15, the Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady, -and is attended by many visiting Indians, especially Navajos, who give -it a special tinge of picturesqueness. From Albuquerque Jemes may be -reached directly by auto-mail stage which passes the pueblo and then -proceeds 13 miles further to Jemes Springs postoffice in San Diego -Cañon. Near this place are some medicinal springs of local repute—iron, -soda and sulphur—and a modest hotel of the country sort. The stage -leaves Albuquerque daily except Sunday, and if you do not mind a bit of -roughing it, the trip (about 50 miles to Jemes pueblo) will be an -experience to talk about. - -Continuing up the Rio Grande from Bernalillo, you next come (10 miles -from Bernalillo, or 3 from Algodones Station on the Santa Fe) to the -pueblo of San Felipe at the foot of a long, black, treeless mesa on the -west bank of the river. Its fine, white Mission church, dating back some -200 years, is a prominent sight from the car windows of Santa Fe trains. -The ruins of a previous church and pueblo of the San Felipeños are -visible on the summit of the mesa, and a climb to them will reward you, -at least with a fine view of the Rio Grande valley. San Felipe’s -principal public fiesta is held May 1. - -Another dozen miles up the river—but now on the east side—is the pueblo -of Santo Domingo, whose 800 Indians are about the most set-in-their-ways -of any in New Mexico. This conservatism serves, however, to make their -Green Corn Dance (held on August 4, the feast day of their patron Saint -Dominic), of especial worth, because the ceremony has been comparatively -little debased by the hybrid innovations which are spoiling many of the -native rites of the Pueblos. There are some preliminary ceremonies the -afternoon before, which it is interesting to view. The pueblo is easily -reached, as it is but a couple of miles from Domingo station on the -Santa Fe railway. The visitor is forewarned that there is a particularly -strong objection at Santo Domingo to picture-taking and cameras are -blacklisted. Even artists of the brush have been ejected from the -village. In passing, it should be stated that the dances of the Pueblos -are not jollifications as among white people, but religious -ceremonials—expressions of thanksgiving to their supernal protectors for -blessings received and prayers for favors to come, as rain and bountiful -crops. Santo Domingo is famous for its beautiful pottery—a heavy ware, -but remarkable for an almost Greek grace of form, adorned with geometric -designs in black on pink or creamy white. - -Still ascending the Rio Grande, you reach (by a pleasant drive of 10 -miles from Domingo Station) the pueblo of Cochití (_co-chee-teé_), where -the ethnologist Bandelier once lived for a time, and studied the race he -came to know so well. It has more the appearance of a Mexican village -than of an Indian pueblo, for the houses are generally of one story and -detached one from another. The people, too (there are about 250), seem -more or less Mexicanized, but are hospitable and good-natured. The local -tradition is that it was the ancestors of the Cochiteños who occupied -the cliff dwellings of the Rito de los Frijoles. One who is robust -enough for horseback tours may secure a guide at Cochití and ascend to -that wild and beautiful region by immemorial trails through a rugged -mountain country dotted with ruins of several former homes and shrines -of the Cochití people, who in prehistoric times seem to have been -confirmed wanderers. The principal public fiesta at this pueblo occurs -on July 14, Saint Bonaventure’s Day, and is well worth attending, though -I know of no especial features distinguishing it. Pottery is made here, -too—some of it of a queer type running to animal forms, corpulent and -impossible. Both Cochití and Santo Domingo may be readily visited in one -day, if arrangements are made in advance through the Santa Fe agent at -Domingo. They are equally easy of access from Santa Fe and Albuquerque. - - - - - CHAPTER IV - THE DEAD CITIES OF THE SALINES - - -Southeasterly from Albuquerque some 20 miles the Manzano Mountains lift -their piny crests and drift southward to the Gallinas. From their feet -eastward stretches the wide treeless Estancia Valley, and in the lap of -it lies a noteworthy cluster of saline ponds and lagoons, whose bitter -waters, shining in the blistering sun, are a mockery to the thirsty. -These are “the accursed lakes”[23] of Pueblo tradition—originally fresh -and abounding in fish, they say, but now lifeless and undrinkable, -cursed of the ancient gods because of the sinfulness of a witch who -dwelt there once. If you would know how this change came about, you -should read the tale called “The Accursed Lake” in Mr. Charles F. -Lummis’s delightful book “Pueblo Indian Folk Stories.” These lakes are -all heavily alkaline except one and that is saline—a source of salt from -time immemorial to the Indians of the pueblos. Coming from near and far, -they would plant their prayer plumes by its white margin and sprinkle -its waves with sacred meal in recognition of the divine largesse they -were about to receive. For the Indian tradition is that this lake was -the abode of a divinity whom they called Salt Old Woman or Salt Mother, -and the salt was her free gift to men. She is circumstantially described -as wearing white boots and a white cotton dress, and carrying in her -hand a white abalone shell, which was so soft and pliable that she could -fold it like a handkerchief.[24] It is said the salt of this lake has -found its way through barter to Parral in Old Mexico. - -To the tourist the attraction in the Estancia Valley is the presence of -some quaint old plaza villages dating from the days of the Spanish -occupation, and certain imposing ruins of Franciscan Mission churches of -seventeenth century construction standing in the midst of crumbled -Pueblo towns. These are not in the open valley but in the foothills of -the Manzanos and the Gallinas, and are easily visited from Mountainair, -an American town on the “Belén Cut-off” of the Santa Fe Railway. Here is -a small hotel, and automobiles may be hired. - -The most famous of the ruins is the Gran Quivira at the edge of the -Gallinas foothills, 24 miles south of Mountainair. They are the remains -of a large pueblo of low, stone houses, covering altogether about 80 -acres and once housing perhaps a couple of thousand souls. There are the -ruins of several _estufas_, of irrigation works, and of two Christian -churches. The pueblo occupies the narrow crest of a ridge overlooking a -vast, lonely, cedar- and piñon-dotted plain that reaches to far-off, -dreamy mountain ranges. It is in a solitude of solitudes wrapped in the -silence of death, and as almost everywhere in the plateau region of -northern New Mexico and Arizona, one has the feeling of being alone on -the roof of the world, though the elevation here is really but 6800 -feet. The most conspicuous feature of this shattered town is the larger -of the two churches whose gaunt, gray, roofless walls of flat limestone -pieces laid in mortar and rising to a height of 30 feet, are visible to -the traveler long before he reaches the place. Seen “from the northeast, -through vistas of cedars and junipers,” to quote Bandelier, “the ruins -shine in pallid light like some phantom city of the desert.” Adjoining -the church, are the ruins of a _convento_ of several small rooms and a -refectory, built about an interior courtyard. The whole has an -unfinished appearance, and Bandelier believed that work on the building -was suddenly interrupted and never resumed. - -Indeed, the whole place is shrouded in mystery—its beginning and its end -are alike in the twilight. No record has been left by the old -chroniclers of any mission called Gran Quivira; but there is frequent -mention by them of Tabirá, whose location fairly corresponds to this. -That was a town of the Piro Pueblos, where an important Mission was -established about 1630 by Padre Francisco de Acevedo. It ceased to be -heard of after half a century, and it is believed that repeated raids of -the barbarous Apaches—the red terror of the peacable Pueblos—caused the -abandonment of the village. In all human probability that Tabirá is this -Gran Quivira, but how the latter name became attached to these ruins has -never been satisfactorily explained; for, as has already been stated, -Quivira was Coronado’s name for the country of the Wichitas, far away in -Kansas. The Piro people, who are believed to have inhabitated this -pueblo (and that of Abó, of which something shortly), are about as -extinct as their towns. Only an insignificant remnant, and these -speaking an alien tongue, exist today, in the Mexican State of -Chihuahua. - -The hill which the Gran Quivira ruins occupy is of limestone, and -underlaid, as limestone hills often are, with hollownesses that give -back in places an audible echo to one’s footfalls. Popular fancy has -been caught by these givings-off of the underworld, and all sorts of -fables have attached themselves to this desolate place. These have -mostly to do with buried treasure. It has been thought, for instance, -that here in the caverns of this hill is really the store of gold and -jewels, the hope of which, like a will-of-the-wisp, lured Coronado on -and ever on, to disappointment and a broken heart. Another tradition -(quoted by Mr. Paul A. F. Walter, in “The Cities That Died of Fear”[25]) -tells of a hidden cave in the hill where the last Piros are said to have -retreated with their belongings, including vast treasure brought from -Mexico by the Franciscan Fathers,[26] and that an earthquake sealed them -and their treasure up together. Of course, such stories have brought -hither innumerable treasure seekers, who for years have gophered the -hill industriously but have got nothing but sore muscles, arrowheads, -and broken pottery. The most picturesque of these delvers was a blind -woman, a Mrs. Clara Corbyn, who acquired homestead rights on the north -end of Gran Quivira. Lacking the wherewithal to finance excavations, she -traveled the country over from the Pacific to the Atlantic, endeavoring -to procure money backing for her scheme, and to that end even wrote a -musical romance, which she called “La Gran Quivira.” Failing, she died -not long ago in Los Angeles—of a broken heart, it is said—and the Museum -of New Mexico eventually secured her homestead interest.[27] The major -portion of these ruins belongs to the United States, forming the Gran -Quivira National Monument. - -Abó, that other dead pueblo of the Piros, is about 12 miles southwest of -Mountainair, or 4 miles west of Abó station on the Santa Fe Railway. -Gran Quivira you see on its hilltop for miles before you reach it, but -of Abó your first view comes with the shock of an unexpected delight. -Your car climbs a hill through a bit of wooded wilderness, and, the -crest attained, there flashes on your sight from below, an exquisite -little sunlit valley. In the midst of it is a hillock, and on and about -this is scattered the desolated, roofless pueblo with its noble church, -ruined too, of San Gregorio de Abó. A thread of living water—the Arroyo -de Abó—cuts its way through the valley which is bounded on the west by -the lovely chain of the Manzanos. Unfortunately, the ruin of the old -church still goes on—the decay hastened, I believe, by the fact that -latter-day settlers have borne off much of its stone and timber for -their private use. As it now stands, the high, jagged walls of the -building resemble as much as anything a gigantic broken tooth, and -standing in this solitary place are picturesque to a degree. The -material is red sandstone and the edifice dates from about 1630—the -founder being the same Padre de Acevedo that is credited with -establishing Gran Quivira. He died here at Abó, and was buried in the -church on August 1, 1644. This pueblo, like Gran Quivira, is believed to -have been abandoned because of Apache raids, and was extinct before the -great rebellion of 1680.[28] - -A few miles from the old pueblo, and close to the railway line there are -some low cliffs, forming one side of a gorge once called _El Cañon de la -Pintada_, or the Painted Rocks of Abó Cañon. This spot is a sort of -aboriginal picture gallery worth a visit by the curious in such matters. -The sheltered places on the cliff-face are adorned for a considerable -distance with drawings of evident antiquity in various colors—yellow, -green, red, white. They are mostly representative of human figures, one -or two apparently of the clowns who play prankish parts in many of the -present-day Pueblo ceremonies. Others are symbols that still survive in -the religious rites of the Pueblos. - -Eight miles northwest of Mountainair (and a little more due north of -Abó) is Quaraí, another forsaken pueblo, the ruins of whose fine old -Mission church may be seen a mile away. My own first view of it was -dramatic enough, the red, sandstone walls 20 feet high or more, gaunt -and jagged, silhouetted sharply against a sky black with storm clouds -whence rain banners wavered downward, and athwart them now and then -forked lightnings shot and spit. Quaraí was a walled town, and some -excavation work, done recently by the Santa Fe archaeologists, has -brought to light among other things the remains of a round community -building resembling the Tyuonyi in the Cañon Rito de los Frijoles.[29] -Close at hand is a cottonwood grove refreshed by an abundant spring, a -favorite picnic ground for the country folk roundabout. Other ruins in -the vicinity and signs of ancient fields here and there indicate that -Quaraí was a place of importance in its day, and doubtless for a long -time before the Spanish occupation. Its church is believed to have been -built about 1628 and was dedicated to La Inmaculada Concepcion. This was -the Mission of that Padre de la Llana whose remains, after much travel, -are now at rest beneath the altar in the Cathedral at Santa Fe. - -About 7 miles northward from Quaraí, nestling at the foot of Manzano -Peak,[30] is an excellent example of the old-fashioned plaza village, -called Manzano, which is Spanish for apple tree. The reason for the name -is the presence there of a couple of ancient apple orchards, which are -believed to date back to the time of the Franciscan Missions, and -doubtless were set out by the Fathers of Quaraí, some 250 years ago. The -village is of the typical adobe architecture of New Mexico, and though -not so old as it looks, having been settled about 1825, it is very -foreign of aspect. With its plaza, its old-fashioned flowers in the -gardens, its houses massed one above another on the side of a hill that -is topped by a great wooden cross, its murmurous _acéquia_, and its fine -old Spanish _torreon_ or tower of defense, Manzano holds features of -picturesqueness enough to be worth a trip in itself. A unique feature of -the place is the Manzano Lake which occupies a depression in the midst -of the village—a charming sheet of water, beautiful and fragrant in -season with water lilies. The source of the Lake is a magnificent spring -hardby. To reach it, one climbs the hillside a quarter-mile or so, and -then descends into a shaded hollow, where the cool water gushes up into -a colossal bowl, and brimming over quickly sinks into the ground to -re-appear below and form the village lake. The spring is locally known -as _El Ojo del Gigante_—the Giant’s Eye—and is famed throughout the -State as a very marvel among springs. - -If one have time and inclination, the Estancia Valley, its lakes and -ruins and Mexican villages may be made the objective of a trip by -automobile from Santa Fe or Albuquerque. The roads in good weather are -fair, as unimproved roads go, and in the mountain part pass through a -wooded region of much loveliness—sunny park-like forests of pine and -oak, with numerous rivulets and charming wild gardens. From Albuquerque -to Mountainair by this route is about 75 miles. - - - - - CHAPTER V - OF ACOMA, CITY OF THE MARVELLOUS ROCK, AND LAGUNA - - -The oldest occupied town in the United States, and in point of situation -perhaps the most poetic, is Acoma (_ah´co-ma_), occupying the flat -summit of a huge rock mass whose perpendicular sides rise 350 feet out -of a solitary New Mexican plain.[31] It is situated 15 miles southwest -of the Santa Fe Railway station of Laguna, where modest accommodations -are provided for travelers who stop over. The inhabitants of Acoma, -numbering about 700, are Pueblo Indians, whose ancestors founded this -rockborne town before the white history of the Southwest began. Coronado -found it here in 1540. _El Peñol Maravilloso_—the Rock Marvellous—the -old chroniclers called it. “A city the strangest and strongest,” says -Padre Benavides, writing of it in 1630, “that there can be in the -world.” - -They will take you from Laguna to Acoma in an automobile over a road, -little better than a trail, whose traversability depends more or less on -weather conditions not only that day, but the day before.[32] It winds -through a characteristic bit of central New Mexico landscape, breezy, -sunlit and long-vistaed, treeless save for scattering piñon and juniper. -Wild flowers bespangle the ground in season; and mountains—red, purple, -amethystine, weather-worn into a hundred fantastic shapes—rise to view -on every hand. In July and August the afternoon sky customarily becomes -massed with cloud clusters, and local showers descend in long, wavering -bands of darkness—here one, there another. Traveling yourself in -sunshine beneath an island of clear turquoise in such a stormy sky, you -may count at one time eight or ten of these picturesque streamers of -rain on the horizon circle. Jagged lightnings play in one quarter of the -heavens while broken rainbows illumine others. Nowhere else in our -country is the sky so very much alive as in New Mexico and Arizona in -summer. Nowhere else, I think, as in this land of fantastic rock forms, -of deep blue skies, and of wide, golden, sunlit plains, do you feel so -much like an enchanted traveler in a Maxfield Parrish picture. - -Though the cliffs of Acoma are visible for several miles before you -reach the Rock, you are almost at its base before you distinguish any -sign of the village—the color of its terraced houses being much the same -as that of the mesa upon which they are set. The soft rocky faces have -been cut into grotesque shapes by the sand of the plain which the winds -of ages have been picking up and hurling against them. There are strange -helmeted columns, slender minarets and spires that some day perhaps a -tempest will snap in two, dark, cool caverns which your fancy pictures -as dens of those ogreish divinities you have read of Indians’ believing -in. - -Your first adventure at Acoma—and it is a joyous one—is climbing the -Rock to the village on top. There are several trails. One is broad and -easy, whereby the Pueblo flocks come up from the plains to be folded for -the night, and men ahorseback travel. Shorter is the one your Indian -guide will take you, by a gradual sandy ascent, to the base of the -cliff. There you are face to face with a crevice up which you ascend by -an all but perpendicular aboriginal stairway of stone blocks and -boulders piled upward in the crack. Handholes cut in the rock wall -support you over ticklish places, until finally you clamber out upon the -flat summit. In Coronado’s time you would have been confronted there by -a wall of loose stones which the Acomas had built to roll down on the -heads of the unwelcome. Today, instead, the visitor is apt to be greeted -by an official of the pueblo exacting a head-tax of a dollar for the -privilege of seeing the town, and picture-taking extra! - -I think this precipitous trail is the one known as _El Camino del Padre_ -(the Father’s Way), which is associated with a pretty bit of history. -The first permanent Christian missionary at Acoma was the Franciscan -Juan Ramirez. Now the Acomas had never been friendly to the Spaniards, -and it was only after a three days’ hard battle in 1599, resulting in -the capture and burning of the town by the Spaniards, that the Indians -accepted vassalage to that inexplicable king beyond the sea.[33] -Naturally, no friendly feeling was engendered by this episode; so when -this Padre Ramirez, years afterward, was seen approaching the Rock one -day—it was in 1629—quite alone and unarmed save with cross and breviary -(having walked all the way from Santa Fe, a matter of 175 miles) the -Acomas decided to make short work of him. The unsuspecting father -started briskly up the rocky stairway, and when he came within easy -range, the watching Indians shot their arrows at him. Then a remarkable -thing happened. A little girl, one of a group looking over the edge of -the precipice, lost her balance and fell out of sight apparently to her -death. A few minutes later, the undaunted padre whom the shelter of the -cliff had saved from the arrows, appeared at the head of the trail -holding in his arms the little child smiling and quite unharmed. Unseen -by the Indians, she had lit on a shelving bit of rock from which the -priest had tenderly lifted her. So obvious a miracle completely changed -the Indians’ feelings towards the long-gowned stranger, and he remained -for many years, teaching his dusky wards Spanish and so much of -Christian doctrine as they would assimilate. It was this Fray Juan -Ramirez, it is said, who had built the animal trail which has been -mentioned. - -[Illustration] - - AN ACOMA INDIAN DANCE - - The dances of the Pueblo Indians are not social diversions but - serious religious ceremonies. - -[Illustration] - - LAGUNA, THE MOTHER PUEBLO OF SEVEN - - This pueblo, languishing while neighboring Acoma flourished, - borrowed the latter’s picture of St. Joseph to change her fortune, - prospered accordingly, and then refused to return the picture, thus - precipitating a lawsuit unique in our annals. - -Most visitors spend a couple of hours at Acoma, and return the same day -to the railroad. This, at a pinch, suffices for a ramble about the -streets, and for looking into doorways for glimpses of the primitive -family life, chaffering with the women for the pretty pottery for which -Acoma is famed,[34] and for a visit to the natural rock cisterns whence -girls are continually coming with dripping ollas balanced on their -heads. And of course, there is the old adobe church with its balconied -_convento_, to be seen. It dates from about 1700. As the Rock was bare -of building material, this had all to be brought up from below on the -backs of Indian neophytes—the timbers from the mountains 20 miles away. -The graveyard is a remarkable piece of work founded on the sloping rock -by building retaining walls of stone (40 feet high, at the outer end) -and filling in with sandy earth lugged patiently up from the plain. - -A conspicuous feature in the view from the Rock of Acoma is a solitary -mesa or rock-table, 3 miles to the northward, which the Acomas call -Katzímo, and the Spaniards named _La Mesa Encantada_ (the Enchanted -Mesa). Its flat top is 430 perpendicular feet above the plain, and can -now be reached only with scaling ladders and ropes. Formerly there was a -single trail up the side. The Indian tradition is that long, long ago, -before the coming of the white invaders, the village of the Acomas -occupied the summit. One day, while all the population except a few old -people were working in the fields below, a tempest completely swept away -the upper part of the trail; so that the inhabitants could never again -reach their homes. They began life over again by building a new pueblo -on the Rock of Acoma.[35] - -The annual public fiesta of Acoma is held September 2, the day of San -Estéban Rey—that is, of St. Stephen the King, Acoma’s patron saint and -Hungary’s. It is attended by a picturesque crowd of Mexicans, Navajos -and Pueblos, besides a sprinkling of Americans. Among the visitors are -thrifty Isleteños, their farm wagons loaded with melons, grapes and -peaches for sale and barter. As on all such occasions in the Rio Grande -pueblos, there is first a great clanging of the church bells to get the -people to mass; after which, the saint’s statue beneath a canopy is -brought out from the church, and all the people march in procession -behind it, the cross, and the padre, while to the accompaniment of a -solemn chant the firing of guns and a wild clamor of discordant church -bells, the image is carried to a booth of green boughs in the plaza, -there to rest and receive the homage of the people. Throughout the day -baskets heaped with fruit, loaves of bread, vegetables and candles are -laid at the saint’s feet, and at intervals the edibles are handed out to -the crowd, or tossed in the air to be scrambled for amid much hilarity. -In the afternoon there is an Indian dance, participated in by men and -women in colorful costumes, the women’s heads adorned with _tablitas_ -(curious, painted boards set upright and cut into shapes symbolic of -clouds and what not). A choir of men with a drum made of a section of -cottonwood log, supplies the music, chanting in unison the ancient songs -of thanksgiving efficacious long before St. Stephen was ever heard of in -Acoma, and not to be lightly abandoned. At sundown the saint is returned -to his place in the church, and the evening is given over to such -jollity as personal fancy dictates, usually including a _baile_, or -dance, by the Mexicans and such white folk as stay, and it must be -confessed, too often a surreptitious bout with John Barleycorn smuggled -in by bootleggers. - -There are no accommodations for visitors at Acoma, but if you have a -taste for mild adventure you will enjoy—in retrospect anyhow—lodging a -night or two with some family in the village, if you have brought your -own provisions. This gives you a leisurely opportunity to watch the -people at their daily tasks, and to enjoy the exquisite outlook at -evening and early morning from the Rock. A night on an Acoma housetop -beneath the brilliant stars is like being transported to Syria. Take it -as a rule that if you desire to learn anything worth while of Indian -life, you must abandon hurry; and the more you pump an Indian, the less -he will tell you. The best things in the Southwest come to the waiting -traveler, not to the hustler. As to the language, in every pueblo there -is someone who talks English enough to act as interpreter, but if you -know a little Spanish, you may do without any intermediary in the Rio -Grande villages. - -The natural pendant to a visit to Acoma is one to Laguna pueblo, 2 miles -from the station of the same name.[36] Like Acoma, it is built upon a -rock, but Laguna’s is merely a low outcropping little above the level of -the ground. The pueblo is full of picturesque bits, and the fall and -rise of the streets continually give you skyey silhouettes, the delight -of artists who like liberal foregrounds. The mature coloring of the -houses in time-mellowed, pearly tones, coupled with the fact that the -old trail leading from the outskirts of the pueblo to the spring is worn -deep in the rock floor by the wear of generations of moccasined feet, -gives one the impression that Laguna is of great antiquity. -Nevertheless, it is not, having been founded about 1697. In 1699 it -received its name San José de la Laguna—Saint Joseph of the Lake—the -appropriateness of which is not now apparent as there is no lake there. -In those days, however, there was a lagoon nearby, due largely to the -damming of the little River San José by beavers. English is very -generally spoken in this pueblo. - -Some 60 years ago Laguna was the defendant in a curious lawsuit brought -against it by Acoma. Fray Juan Ramirez—he of the _Camino del Padre_—had -put Acoma under the patronage of Saint Joseph, spouse of Our Lady and -patron of the Church Universal, and in the Acoma church the saint’s -picture hung for many years, a source of local blessing as the Acomas -firmly believed. Now while Acoma prospered Laguna had many -misfortunes—crop failures, sickness and so on; and with a view to -bettering matters Laguna asked Acoma for the loan of Saint Joseph. This -request was granted with the understanding that the loan should be for -one month only. But alas, recreant Laguna, once in possession, refused -to give back the picture, which was proving as “good medicine” there as -had been the case at Acoma. At last the padre was called on to settle -the dispute and he suggested that lots be drawn for it. This was done -and the picture fell to Acoma. The Lagunas proved poor losers, however, -and made off with the painting by force—which enraged the Acomas to the -fighting point, and war was only averted by the padre’s persuading them -to do what a Pueblo Indian is very loth to do, submit the case to the -white man’s courts. Lawyers were engaged by both pueblos, and after a -hot wrangle involving an appeal to the Supreme Court of New Mexico, the -picture was awarded to Acoma. Evidently the saint himself approved the -judgment, for tradition has it that when the Acoma delegation appointed -to fetch the picture back were half way to Laguna, their astonished eyes -were greeted by the sight of it reposing under a mesquite bush. -Evidently, upon receipt of the news, it had set out of its own accord -for home! - -In proof of which the traveler today may see the painting in the old -church at Acoma.[37] - -Laguna’s principal public fiesta is held annually on September 18, and -adds to the usual ceremonies of the saint’s day at a pueblo the features -of a country fair, for the Lagunas are notable agriculturists. The -Mission church interior at Laguna, by the way, possesses features of -interest in the way of Indian decoration and ancient Spanish paintings, -particularly those of the altar done on stretched hide. Visitors may be -accommodated in Indian houses, if they court that experience, or at the -residence of a Protestant missionary near by. The National Old Trails -transcontinental highway passes the pueblo. - - - - - CHAPTER VI - TO ZUÑI, THE CENTER OF THE EARTH, VIA GALLUP - - -Gallup, New Mexico, has never made much of a stir as a tourist center, -but like many a spot of modest pretensions, it is deserving beyond its -gettings. As an example of the “city beautiful” it is not, in my -judgment, a success; but as a base and a fitting-out point for some of -the most interesting parts of the Southwest, it is to be heartily -commended.[38] Particularly is this so now that the motor car has so -largely supplanted the horse-drawn vehicle for excursions afield. There -are comfortable hotel accommodations and there are Harvey meals -obtainable. - -[Illustration] - - BEAD MAKER, ZUÑI PUEBLO - - Necklaces of flat, round beads made from sea shells form a common - adornment of Pueblo Indians. - -[Illustration] - - A STREET IN ACOMA PUEBLO - - The ladders afford means of access to the upper stories. - -From Gallup (which is on one of the main automobile routes followed by -transcontinental motorists) good trips radiate in many directions—85 -miles to Cañon de Chelly, for instance, and its cliff dwellings amidst -surpassing scenery; 75 miles to the Pueblo Bonito ruins in Chaco Cañon; -125 miles to the Hopi country; 42 miles to Zuñi pueblo; 75 miles to -Inscription Rock of the Conquistadores. The great Navajo reservation -with its picturesque aboriginal life reaches almost to Gallup’s back -door, and even the Mesa Verde National Park,[39] can be done from Gallup -in 4 or 5 days for the round trip, if the weather conditions are right. - -This chapter has to do with the famous Indian pueblo of Zuñi, which lies -to the south, about 2½ hours by motor car. The road is all sorts from a -motorist’s standpoint; so be your own best friend and take it -good-naturedly, for fussing will not mend it. In a few minutes you are -beyond sight of houses and railroads, and in a twinkling Time’s clock -has whirled back a couple of centuries. You pass, perhaps, a Navajo -woman astride her pony, a sheepskin or two tied to the saddle, on her -way to the trader’s for coffee and tobacco; and then a Mexican teamster -crouching over a bit of camp-fire where his chili and beans are stewing, -his wagon piled high with wool sacks drawn up by the roadside. Now a -solitary adobe ranch house, or a lone trader’s log hut is seen in a -wilderness of sagey plain; and now a flock of sheep drift into the road -out of the piñon- and cedar-scrub, a couple of bright-eyed Navajo -children shepherding in their wake. By and by you pass another sort of -Indian on horseback, a slightly built man with long jet-black hair -lifted by the breeze, a red _banda_ encircling it—he is a Zuñi. And then -topping a low hill, you are greeted by the distant sight of a long -flat-topped mesa, creamy pink against a blue sky. It is Towa-yálleni, -Zuñi’s Mountain of the Sacred Corn. A turn in the road, and the great -yellow plain of Zuñi spreads out before you, the Zuñi River threading -its midst, and on its bank the old pueblo humps itself like a huge -anthill, hardly distinguishable in color from the plain itself. - -Zuñi (with a population of some 1600) is historically perhaps the most -interesting of all the Pueblo towns, for it is the present-day -representative of those Seven Cities of Cíbola, the fable of whose -wealth led to the discovery of New Mexico in the sixteenth century. -There really were seven Zuñi villages in Coronado’s time, all of which -have long since disappeared, though sites of at least five are known. -The present Zuñi pueblo seems to have been built about the year 1700, -replacing that one of the ancient seven known as Hálona. This occupied -the opposite or south bank of the river in Coronado’s time—a spot now -partially covered by the buildings of a white trader. - -If you are going to hold your car and return to Gallup the same day, -there will probably be 3 or 4 hours available for a stroll about the -pueblo. The houses, of a characteristic reddish tone, rise from -one-storied structures on the outskirts to 5 stories at the center of -the town, and you will enjoy mounting by ladders and stepping stones to -that uppermost height for the lovely view over the plain to the -mountains that hem in the Zuñi valley. The narrow streets without -sidewalks open out now and then into small plazas, and some communicate -with one another by tunnels. Beehive ovens squat upon the roofs in -dome-like fashion and contribute a suggestion of the Orient—of Cairo or -Syria. Dogs, turkeys, pigs and burros have equal right with humanity in -the cramped thoroughfares, and if one is of a cleanly habit, one needs -to watch one’s steps. But dirt and picturesqueness were ever comrades, -and Zuñi is truly picturesque. From the open door issues the hum of the -busy mealing stones, and the fragrance of the crushed corn; perhaps, -too, to your ravished ears, the high-keyed melody of grinding songs -shrilled by the women as they work. - -Look in, and if your manner is respectful and the girls not over shy, -you will be allowed the enjoyment of a charming picture of kneeling, -swaying bodies and of down-turned faces veiled in falling hair. Ollas of -native ware stand about with water; parti-colored blankets of Navajo or -Zuñi weave hanging from wall or ceiling give a touch of brightness in -the dim light of the room; in the triangular corner fireplace dinner -simmers within a bowl of native pottery set upon the coals. If fortune -favors you there may be a potter at her moulding, or, in the street, -jars being fired or bread being put to bake in the adobe ovens; or in -some plaza a ceremonial dance in costume may be in progress. Zuñi is -still comfortably pagan—the ancient Catholic church is a ruin and the -modern Protestant mission is by no means overworked—and throughout the -year the red gods of Zuñi have homage paid them in many a ceremony rich -in symbolism and pure beauty.[40] - -On the outskirts of the pueblo in August, one may have a sight of wheat -thrashing on the open-air thrashing floors, the grain being trodden out -in oriental fashion by horses, sheep or goats. Or there may be a -straight-away horse race over the plain with a picturesque crowd looking -on; or a _gallo_ race, the part of the rooster (_gallo_) humanely taken -in these latter days by a sack buried to the neck in the sand. A quieter -feature of interest is the quaint little vegetable gardens on a slope by -the river—each tiny garden enclosed with a thin adobe wall. These are -tended by the women who daily bring water in ollas and pails to irrigate -the plants. - -[Illustration] - - OLD CHURCH, ACOMA PUEBLO - - Dating from about 1700. Tradition has it that it was 40 years in - building. All material was carried up on Indians’ backs from the - plain 350 feet below, by an almost precipitous trail. - -[Illustration] - - A SUNNY WALL IN ZUÑI - - The men of Zuñi are famous knitters. This one is making his wife a - pair of leggings. - -A short walk from the pueblo brings you to Hepatina (_hay´-pa-tee-na_) a -stone shrine erected on the plain, which in the Zuñi conception, marks -the center of the earth; for the unreconstructed Zuñi believes naturally -enough, just as your and my ancestors did a few centuries ago, that the -earth is flat. Hither in the days of long ago, a guardian divinity of -the Zuñis brought them as to the safest place in the world—the farthest -from the edge—preceding them in the form of a water strider. The -double-barred cross, which you will see sometimes on Zuñi pottery, or -fashioned in silver, is the symbol of that divine guide. There has been, -by the way, some good pottery made at Zuñi, and the visitor interested -in that art may still enjoy the adventure of a house-to-house ceramic -hunt with chances of a pleasurable outcome. - -The accommodations for visitors in the pueblo are very limited. Perhaps -one of the couple of white resident traders or the school teacher may be -complaisant enough to take you in; and there are certain Indian houses -where lodging can surely be had. If you are not of a meticulous sort, I -would recommend a stop-over long enough at least to visit the mesa -Towa-yálleni, which Cushing has put into literature as Thunder Mountain. -It looks near the pueblo, but is really 4 miles distant. On its summit -centuries ago there was a pueblo of the Zuñis, the broken down walls of -which, overrun with cactus and brush, are still quite evident. Curious -pictographs of the ancients may be traced on many a rock; and if one -knows where to look, there are pagan shrines where prayer plumes are yet -offered to the Divine Ones. Among such are those of the Twin War Gods, -whose home is believed to have been on Towa-yálleni—“little fellows that -never give up.” I was once informed by a Zuñi, “gone away now may be -gone up, may be gone down; _quien sabe_?”[41] It was on this mountain -the Zuñis found a refuge after their losing fight with Coronado in 1540; -and again in 1632 they retreated hither after killing their missionary, -Padre Letrado, of whom we shall hear again at Inscription Rock in the -next chapter. And here they were in 1692 when De Vargas forced their -surrender in the re-conquest. Tradition has it, too, that here long, -long ago, the people fled for safety when an offended deity flooded them -out of their villages in the plain; and the water still rising, a -desperate sacrifice was called for. A boy and a girl were tossed from -the summit into the angry flood. In a twinkling, the children were -transformed into pinnacles of rock and the waters sank appeased. You can -see these spires of stone today from Zuñi, and old people will tell you -that the one with a double point is the boy. A peculiar virtue resides -in that petrified humanity it seems. If a childless couple resort to the -base of the pinnacles and there plant prayer plumes, there will be -granted to them the children of their desire. - -There are trails, steep and rough, up Towa-yálleni’s sides, and if you -can make the trip with an intelligent and communicative old Zuñi (most -of the young ones seem to know or care little about the ancient things), -you will have a remarkable outing. An hour or two spent on that lonely -breeze-swept, sun-kissed mesa-top, with the ruined town, its broken -shrines, its historic and legendary memories, will induct you, as no -amount of reading will, into the atmosphere of the Southwest’s romantic -past. There used to be—and for all I know still is—a trail that a rider -on horseback can follow, at the northeastern side of the mesa. The -ancient peach orchard through which it wound owes its existence to seed -brought to Zuñi by the Spaniards. - - NOTE: Five miles northeast of Zuñi, is Black Rock, where travelers - with an interest in Government education of the Indians may see a - Reservation School in operation. Within a radius of 15 or 20 miles of - the main pueblo are 3 farming villages occupied in summer by Zuñis to - be near certain tracts of tillable land. One of these, Ojo Caliente, - 15 miles southwest of Zuñi, is close to the site of ancient - Háwikuh—the first Pueblo town seen by white men. Upon it in 1539, - intrepid Fray Marcos de Niza looked down from a nearby height, and - then, warned by the murder of his avant-courier, the negro Estévanico, - beat a prudent retreat to Mexico. Coronado captured the place in the - following year, and thence made his first report of the famous 7 - cities to the viceroy in Mexico. It is the scene of one of the most - charming of Cushing’s Zuñi folk tales, “The Foster Child of the Deer.” - Extensive excavations have recently been made there by Government - ethnologists. - - - - - CHAPTER VII - EL MORRO, THE AUTOGRAPH ROCK OF THE CONQUISTADORES - - -Thirty-five miles eastward from Zuñi (2 hours by automobile, if the -roads are dry) is a huge rock mass of pale pink sandstone whose sides -rise sheer a couple of hundred feet against a turquoise sky. It stands -in the midst of a lonely plain whose wild grasses are nibbled by the -passing flocks of wandering Navajos, and so far as I know, there is no -nearer human habitation than the little Mormon settlement of Ramah, -through which you pass to reach the rock. This cliff has a story to tell -of such unique interest that the United States Government has acquired -the mesa of which it is a spur for a National Monument. It is known as -Inscription Rock, or El Morro (the latter a not uncommon -Spanish-American designation for a bold promontory), and was a landmark -as early as the sixteenth century for the Spanish expeditions bound -between Santa Fe, Acoma and Zuñi. Water, feed, and wood were here -available, as they are today, making the foot of the high cliff a good -camping place, and here as a matter of fact during the sixteenth, -seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries, many a Spanish military party did -camp, and having rested themselves and their cattle, went on refreshed -to do the errands of their King and Church. - -And hither one day in 1849, just after New Mexico had become part of the -United States, came Lieut. J. H. Simpson, U. S. A., with some troopers -on a military reconnaissance, and discovered that the base of the cliff -was a veritable album of those old Conquistadores; bearing not only the -names of the Spanish explorers but frequently an accompaniment of date -and comment that form important contributory evidence touching the early -history of the Southwest. Simpson made copies of a number of the -inscriptions, and these were published with translations (not always -accurate) in his report to the Secretary of War.[42] Most of those -recordings carved in the soft rock with sword or dagger point are still -fresh and legible, so little have centuries of dry New Mexico weather -worn the clear-cut lettering. If you go to see them, you will be a -dry-as-dust indeed if you do not feel an odd sort of thrill as you put -your finger tips upon the chiseled autographs of the men who won for -Spain an empire and held it dauntlessly. For most of these records are -not idle scribblings of the witless, but careful work by people with a -purpose, whose names are mentioned in the documents of the time. Here -are the names, for instance, of Oñate, the conqueror, and of De Vargas, -the re-conqueror, the very flower of the warrior brotherhood. The Rock -is a monument such as has no duplicate in the country; and some day when -our historians have got the Southwest in proper perspective, and waked -up to a realization of the heroism and romance that went into the making -of it, El Morro will perhaps be really protected (if its priceless -inscriptions survive so long) and not left as it is now to vandal -tourists to hack and carve their silly names upon. - -It takes knowledge of old Spanish abbreviations to get at the sense of -many of the records, but even the casual visitor cannot but be struck by -the artistry that characterizes many of the petrographs. One who has -Spanish enough to give zest to the quest could easily spend a couple of -days, camped at this fascinating spot, spelling out the quaint old -notations, peopling again in fancy this ancient camp-ground with the -warriors of long ago in helmet and cuirass, their horses housed in -leather; and ever with them the Franciscan soldiers of the Cross in gray -gown and cord with dangling crucifix. Then there is the enjoyment of the -place itself—the sunny solitude, and the glorious, extended views, the -long blue line of the Zuñi Mountains, the pale spires of La Puerta de -los Gigantes (the Giants’ Gate). Then, if you like, is the climb to the -mesa’s summit for yet wider views, and a sight of the ruined old pueblo -there, whereof history has naught to tell—only tradition, which says -that it was once a Zuñian town. - -There is some doubt as to the earliest inscription on the Rock. One -questionable writing, unsigned, appears to be 1580. Next in point of -antiquity is the undoubted record of Oñate, cut across an earlier Indian -petrograph, and reads _literatim_: “Paso por aqi el adelantado don jua -de oñate del descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 del abril del 1606.” -(That is: Passed by here the provincial chief Don Juan de Oñate from the -discovery of the South Sea on 16th of April, 1606.) The discovery he -records as of the South Sea (i.e., Pacific Ocean) was really of the Gulf -of California, for Oñate doubtless believed as most of the world did in -his day that California was an island. Oddly enough, though, he made a -mistake in the date, which documentary evidence proves to have been 1605 -not 1606. - -The inscription of De Vargas, the reconqueror, following the Pueblo -rebellion of 1680, reads: “Aqui estaba el Genl Dn. Do de Vargas quien -conquisto a nuestra santa fe y la real corona todo el nuevo Mexico a su -costa año de 1692.” (Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas who -conquered to our holy faith and the royal crown all New Mexico, at his -own expense, year of 1692.) - -Records of especial interest, too, are two of 1629, telling of the -passing by of Governor Silva Nieto. One is in rhymed verse[43] and -refers to Nieto as the “bearer of the Faith to Zuñi;” that is, he had -acted as escort of the first Christian missionaries to pagan Zuñi. A -tragic sequel to that inscription is a short one that is so abbreviated -that scholars have had a hard tussle with it. The puzzle has been -solved, however. You will know this petroglyph by the signature Lujan, a -soldier, and the date 1632; and it reads, Englished: “They passed on 23 -March 1632 to the avenging of Padre Letrado’s death.” Zuñi did not take -kindly to its missionaries and killed them periodically. This Padre -Letrado was one of the martyrs—shot to death as he preached, holding out -his crucifix to his murderers.[44] - -In delicate, almost feminine, characters is a modest inscription that -reads, translated: “I am from the hand of Felipe de Avellano, 16 -September, soldier.” There is something touching, I think, about that -personified periphrase, and I am glad that, in spite of the omission of -the year, historians have identified the writer. He was a common soldier -of the garrison at Zuñi after the reconquest, and met death there in -1700. - -It is unfortunate that this noble and unique monument should be left -exposed as it is to vandals. Almost every white visitor thinks it is his -duty to scratch his name up alongside the historic ones and there is no -guardian to forbid—only an unregarded sign of the Department of the -Interior tacked on a nearby tree. A year ago the Department, in response -to private representation, promised to put up a fence of protection, and -perhaps this has been done; but a fence is a perfectly inadequate -measure. If the East possessed one such autograph in stone (of Joliet, -or La Salle, or Cartier), as El Morro bears by the half dozen, I wonder -if the few hundred a year necessary to support a local guardian would -not be forthcoming? When will our nation take seriously the colonial -history of the Southwest as just as much its own as that of the Atlantic -side of the Continental Divide? - -At the shortest, it is a matter of two days to achieve a visit to El -Morro from the railway. Gallup is the best stop-off. There an automobile -may be hired, and the night spent at Ramah, where accommodations may be -had at the trader’s unless you prefer to camp at the Rock itself, which, -if you like such adventure and are prepared, is a joyous thing to do. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - THE STORIED LAND OF THE NAVAJO - - -The Navajos are the Bedouins of our Southwest, and there are about -22,000 of them—a fine, independent tribe of Indians occupying a -semi-desert, mountainous reservation in northwestern New Mexico, -northeastern Arizona and a small corner of Utah. Indeed they occupy -somewhat more, for they are confirmed rovers and are frequently found -setting up their _hogans_, shepherding their sheep, and weaving their -blankets, well across their government-fixed borders. One is sure to see -some of them in Gallup, where they come to trade—the men generally in -dark velveteen shirts worn loose outside the trousers, their long, -black, uncut hair filleted about with red _bandas_ and caught up behind -in a club or knot. Both men and women are expert riders, sitting their -ponies as firmly as centaurs; and both are extravagantly fond of silver -jewelry, of which they often wear small fortunes in necklaces, belts, -bracelets, rings and buttons hammered by their own silversmiths from -coin of Mexico. If you see them wearing blankets, as you will when the -weather requires it, these will be the gaudy products of Yankee looms, -which they buy for less than the price they receive for their own famous -weave. So, thrifty traders that they are, they let the white folk have -the latter and content themselves with the cheaper machine-made article -bought from an American merchant. - -It is part of the fun of a visit to the Hopi towns that you must cross a -section of the Navajo Reservation and thus get a glimpse of life in the -latter; but there is a special trip which I would like to recommend from -Gallup as a starting point, that brings one more intimately into touch -with the tribe. That is to Chin Lee and the Cañon de Chelly,[45] about -100 miles northwest of Gallup. There is a choice of roads, so that the -going and returning may be by different routes. The trip may be done by -time economists in an automobile in two or three days, but a more -enjoyable plan for easy-going folk is to take eight or ten days to it by -horseback or wagon, camping by the way. And do it preferably in -September or early October, for then the mid-year rains are usually -over, the air clear and sparkling, and feed for horses sufficiently -abundant. The elements that enter into the landscape are primarily those -that go to the making of the grandeur of the Grand Cañon region, but -scattered and distant, not concentrated. There is a similar sculpturing -of the land into pinnacles and terraces, cones perfect or truncated, -battlemented castles and airy spires, appearing, when afar, mistily in -an atmosphere of amethyst and mauve and indefinite tones of yellow and -pink. Now the road threads open, sunny forests of pine and oak, the -latter in autumnal dress of crimson and gold and surprising you with -acorns as sweet as chinquapins. Again, it traverses broad, unwatered, -semi-desert plains dotted with fragrant sage-brush and riotous -sunflowers, the only animated things in sight being prairie dogs and -jackrabbits, or an occasional band of Navajo ponies. As the morning -advances, cumulus clouds rise in stately squadrons above the horizon and -move across the sky dropping drifting shadows; at noon over a fire of -sage stumps you heat up your beans and brew your coffee in the grateful -shade of your wagon; night finds you at some hospitable trader’s post, -or enjoying your blankets at the sign of _La belle étoile_. Only at long -intervals will you come upon sign of human life. At Fort Defiance, 30 -miles north of Gallup, is a Government Reservation school for the -Navajos, and a mile from it an Episcopal medical mission—a living -monument to the loving interest of Miss Eliza Thackara in these Indians. -Eight miles south of Fort Defiance is the Franciscan Mission of St. -Michael’s to the Navajo, where, if you are interested, the hospitable -Brothers can show you what sort of a job it is to transform an ungroomed -savage into Christian semblance. At Ganado, Arizona, 45 miles from -Gallup, is the trading post of Mr. J. L. Hubbell, whose name for a -generation has in that part of the world been a synonym for -hospitality.[46] - -Nevertheless, there is more life than you see, for the native _hogan_, -or one-roomed dwelling of logs covered with earth, is so inconspicuous -that you may pass within a few rods of one and never detect it. The -Navajos do not congregate in villages but each family wants a lot—miles, -indeed—of elbow room. - -Chin Lee, mentioned above, is not Chinese as it sounds, but the Navajo -name of a spacious valley into which Cañon de Chelly debouches. If you -have a taste for mythology, it will interest you to know that here, -according to tradition, Estsán-atlehi (the chief goddess of the Navajo -pantheon and wife of the Sun-god), traveling from the east once camped -with her attendant divinities for a great ceremony and a footrace. She -was on her way to her home in the great water of the west, where in a -floating house she still lives, and receives her lord the Sun every -evening when his daily work is finished.[47] There is a trading post at -Chin Lee, and beyond the broad flat in front of it is the entrance to -Cañon de Chelly. This is a narrow, tortuous rift in the earth, some 20 -miles long, whose perpendicular sides of red sandstone rise 800 to 1000 -feet. Opening into it are two side gorges, Monument and Del Muerto -Cañons. A shallow stream of sweet water—sometimes, however, hidden -beneath the sands—creeps along the cañon floor, widens in the plain into -the Rio de Chelly, and flowing northward joins the San Juan in southern -Utah. So in time does it contribute its bit to the tawny flood that -pours through the Grand Cañon of the Colorado.[48] - -The interests that hold the visitor in Cañon de Chelly are several. -There is, first, the stupendous scenery. Men and animals traversing this -level floor seem pygmies at the foot of the smooth, vertical walls, -carved and stained by the master-artist Time working through who knows -how many milleniums. The windings of the gorge keep one in perpetual -expectancy of something going to happen just around the corner, and -create an atmosphere of mystery that is little short of thrilling. In -places the cañon widens out in sunlit coves and wild-grass meadows, -where clustered reeds[49] rustle and wild flowers bloom. Quite as often, -though, the walls are so close together that the sunshine never reaches -the bottom and the grim surroundings suggest some overwhelming picture -of Doré’s. - -Then there are the ancient dwellings in the cliffs—little, crumbling -cities of the dead. Perched high up in shallow cavities of the flat -wall, some are inaccessible except by ladders; others, may be reached by -scrambling up talus slopes. One famous one, known as Mummy Cave, in -Cañon del Muerto, should by all means be visited; but even more striking -is one in the main cañon called _La Casa Blanca_ or the White House. The -upper story of this majestic ruin, which strikingly resembles some -medieval castle, is colored white; and the whole line of the immense -edifice set high above the earth and projected against the dark -background of a natural cavity in the enormous cliff, makes a dramatic -picture. The effect is heightened when we learn that in Navajo folk-lore -it plays a part as the abode of certain genii or minor divinities who, -the faithful believe, still haunt the edifice. - -In places the cliffs are prehistoric art galleries, adorned with -pictographs of unheard-of birds and animals, human hands outspread, -geometrical designs, and attenuated figures of men in various attitudes. - -Lastly, there is the interest of a present-day Indian life, for the -cañon is the free, joyous home of numerous Navajo families, that come -and go as fancy dictates. Their _hogans_, often with a hand-loom for -blanket weaving[50] swung from a nearby tree are set inconspicuously -here and there at the base of the towering cliffs, wherever there is a -bit of land suitable for the raising of corn, beans and melons. Peach -orchards, too, are here, from seed of Spanish introduction centuries -ago. Flocks of sheep and goats are continually on the move up and down -the cañon, which is musical with their bleatings and the wild melody of -the shepherds’ songs. It is a picturesque sight at evening to see the -homing bands crowding into the primitive folds which sometimes are a -mere crevice in the rock walls with a rude fence thrown across the -opening. - -During the wars which for many years marked the intercourse of the -Navajos with the whites—both Spaniards and Americans—the Cañon de Chelly -was a notable stronghold of the red men. It was here that in 1864 Kit -Carson and his troopers at last succeeded in breaking the backbone of -the Indian resistance. Today the Navajos are as peaceable as the -Pueblos. - -According to Navajo legends, the boundaries of their land were marked -out for them by the gods who brought them up through the great reed from -the lower world.[51] These landmarks were in the form of mountains -especially created for the purpose of earth brought from the lower -world, and were seven in number. Of these the Sacred Mountain of the -East is believed to be Pelado Peak, 20 miles northeast of Jemes pueblo -and it was made fast to the earth by a bolt of lightning; the Sacred -Mountain of the South is known to be Mount San Matéo, 20 miles or so -northwest of Laguna pueblo, held in place by a great stone knife thrust -through it from summit to base; the Sacred Mountain of the West, is the -San Francisco Mountain, 12 miles north of Flagstaff, Arizona, fastened -down by a sunbeam; and the Sacred Mountain of the North is some one of -the San Juan range, which a rainbow held in place. The other three are -peaks of the mid-region, only one of which, Hosta Butte in Bernalillo -County, New Mexico, has been identified.[52] Two of these mountains are -plainly visible from the Santa Fe Railway trains and by motorists -following the National Old Trails transcontinental highway—namely, the -San Francisco Mountain (12,611 feet) and Mount San Matéo (11,389 feet). -Both are extinct volcanoes. The vicinity of Mount San Matéo (which is -also known as Mount Taylor)[53] is the scene of a thrilling tradition. -There it was that the Navajo Gods of War (children of the Sun and of the -Waterfall), mounted upon a rainbow, met and slew with lightning bolts -the boy-eating giant, Ye-itso. The latter was a monster so huge that the -spread of his two feet was a day’s journey for a man, his footfalls were -as thunder, and when he drank his draught exhausted a lake. His head, -cut off by the War-gods and tossed away, was changed into El Cabezon, a -truncated cone of a mountain visible 40 miles northeast from San Matéo; -and his blood flowing in a deluge to the south and west is what we white -folk in our ignorance call a hardened lava-flow, as we watch it from the -car window for miles westward from McCarty’s. Look at it again with the -eyes of faith, and is not its semblance that of coagulated, blackened -blood? - -So you see in this glorious Southwest we may still follow in the very -footsteps of the gods, and regard the world as it seems through the eyes -of a primitive and poetic race—see in the lightning the weapon of the -red gods, in the rainbows their bridges to traverse chasms withal, in -the sunbeams their swift cars of passage. There is something rather -exhilarating, I think, to know that in our materialistic America there -is a region where the Ancient Ones still haunt as in the youth of the -world. To be sure the white man’s schools are operating to break up this -primitive faith; but the ingrained genius of a race is not made over in -a generation. One may stumble still upon Navajo religious ceremonies, -held in the open, with their picturesque rites and maskings and wild -music. They differ markedly from the ceremonies of the Pueblos, and are, -as a rule, undertaken under the charge of medicine men primarily for the -cure of the sick. There are no fixed dates for any of these ceremonies, -and casual travelers do not often see them, as they are most likely to -be held during the cold weather, when few visitors care to penetrate -into the country. An exceedingly interesting adjunct of many of the -Navajo rites is the dry sand painting, of a symbolic character and often -of striking beauty, made in color upon a prepared flooring of sand. The -design is “drawn” on this by dribbling upon it the dry ground -pigments—white, red, yellow, black and gray—from between the artist’s -thumb and fore-finger. The picture must be done in one day, several men -sometimes working upon it at once. When completed the sick man is placed -upon it and treated; and after that, the picture is obliterated.[54] - - - - - CHAPTER IX - THE HOMES OF THE HOPIS, LITTLE PEOPLE OF PEACE - - -Now that the automobile has become a common mode of travel even in the -desert, you may reach the pueblos of the Hopi Indians quite comfortably -from Gallup.[55] The distance is about 130 miles to the first of the -villages. The road is via St. Michael’s (where the Franciscan Brothers -maintain a Mission for the Navajos); Ganado, where Mr. J. L. Hubbell’s -trading post stands; and Keam’s Cañon, where Mr. Lorenzo Hubbell, -hospitable son of a hospitable father, has another trading post. As far -as Ganado (70 miles) the way is identical with the first part of one -road to the Cañon de Chelly. From Ganado westward there are 60 miles of -pure wilderness, semi-desert, treeless, but in summer and autumn -splendid in places with sheets of wild flowers in purple and yellow. On -every hand—sometimes near, sometimes afar—are the characteristic mesa -formations of the Southwest carved by the elements into curious shapes -to which the fancy readily suggests names. One that you will pass is a -strikingly good model of a battleship’s dismantled hull, and goes by the -name of Steamboat Rock—a pleasant conceit for this desert, which, the -geologists tell us, was once a sea bottom. Nowhere is sign of humanity, -save perhaps, some wandering Navajos or a chance traveler like yourself. - -[Illustration] - - CASA BLANCA OR WHITE HOUSE - - A prehistoric Cliff dwelling set amidst the stupendous scenery of - the Cañon de Chelly, Arizona—the reputed haunt of certain Navajo - gods. - -[Illustration] - - EL MORRO OR INSCRIPTION ROCK, N. M. - - This remarkable cliff bears near its base a score or more of - autographs carved in the stone by the Spanish conquerors during the - 17th and 18th centuries. - -At last there comes a change over the country ahead of you—a -transfiguration to broad sweeps of pink and pallid yellow, with here and -there a streak of white or of green, and on the far horizon a wall of -purple. The Painted Desert is before you, and upon the very tip of a -long promontory streaked horizontally with brown and red and yellow, and -laid upon the desert like a gigantic arm thrust out, you see the -castellated sky-line formed by the pueblos of the First Hopi Mesa. The -geography of the Hopi country is like this: Three long, narrow mesas -extending fingerlike into the Painted Desert, the tips about 10 miles -each from the next. On the First Mesa (which is the easternmost) are -three villages in an almost continuous row—Hano (called also Tewa), -which you plump breathlessly into at the top of the one steep trail -which is your means of access to all; then Sichúmovi, and lastly, at the -mesa’s extremity with all the desert in front, is Walpi, a most -picturesque pile rising in terraces to 4 stories and suggesting some -mediaeval fortress. The Second Mesa is forked at its tip, with -Mishóngnovi and Shipaúlovi set superbly along one tine, and -Shimópovi[56] on the other. On the Third Mesa stands old Oraibi, largest -and until recently most populous of all. Some years ago, however, it -suffered a secession of fully half its population, who are now -established a few miles away on the same mesa forming the independent -pueblos of Hótavila and Bácavi.[57] - -The situation of these little towns is magnificent beyond words, -overlooking the Painted Desert, ever changing, ever wonderful, ever -challenging the spiritual in you, and stretching to where the San -Francisco Peaks, the Mogollones and the White Mountains notch the dim -horizon line. The elevation (6000 feet above the sea) and the purity and -dryness of the air, combine to make the climate particularly healthful -and enjoyable. Winter brings frosts and some snow, alternating with -brilliant sunshine. Summer, the season that interests the average -visitor, is as a rule delightful—the afternoon thunder showers of July -and August being only a refreshment and a source of added -picturesqueness in the form of superb cloud effects, spectacular -lightning, and splendid rainbows. Mid-day is warm enough for old men to -loiter in the sun in a costume that is pared down to a breech clout and -little children joyously wear nothing at all; yet both need covering in -the shade. As for the summer nights, they are always deliciously cool -and for outdoor sleeping are ideal. The flat-roofed, eaveless houses are -usually of flat stones laid in mud mortar, and though terraced, do not -usually exceed two or three stories in height. The arrangement is in -streets and plazas, the _kivas_ or ceremonial chambers (corresponding to -the _estufas_ of the Rio Grande pueblos) being underground and reached -by a descending ladder, whose upper part—two rungless poles—stick -picturesquely up in the air. There is a growing tendency to build the -new houses at the bases of the cliffs, particularly at the First and -Third Mesas—a reversal to first principles; for when Don Pedro de Tovar, -a lieutenant of Coronado, with Padre Juan de Padilla (of whom we heard -at Isleta) and a few soldiers, visited in 1540 this province of Tusayan, -as they called the country, they reported the Hopis dwelling at the foot -of the mesas. It was only later, probably after the Pueblo Rebellion of -1680, that the towns were rebuilt upon the mesa summits where we now -find them. The sites of two former Walpis may still be traced below the -First Mesa together with the ruins of an ancient Franciscan Mission, -some of whose timbers, they say, form part of the existing pagan -_kivas_. The Hopi never took kindly to missionary effort by the whites. -Every _padre_ among them was murdered at the time of the Rebellion, and -they would never tolerate another. Even kind Padre Garcés (of whom we -shall hear in a subsequent chapter) the Oraibians kept sitting outdoors -in a street corner for two days, and then evicted him from their town. -In 1700, one pueblo whose inhabitants showed a hospitable feeling to the -preaching of a persistent friar, was attacked by neighboring Hopis, set -on fire and such of the inhabitants as were not killed, were carried to -other towns. Of that pueblo—its name was Awátobi—you may see some ruined -remnants yet about 9 miles southeast of Walpi.[58] - -The attraction that draws most visitors to the country of the Hopi -Indians is the famous Snake Dance held annually in August. The date is a -movable one and not known positively until 9 days in advance, when the -information may be had of the Santa Fe railway officials, who make it a -point to be posted. This remarkable ceremony, in which live snakes, a -large proportion of them venomous rattlers, are handled by the dance -participants as nonchalantly as if they were kittens, is in fact a -prayer for rain, in which the snakes (never harmed or their fangs -extracted as is sometimes ignorantly supposed), are intermediaries -between the people and the gods of water. It is moreover the -dramatization of a Hopi myth concerning the origin of the two -clans—Antelope and Snake—who perform the ceremony. The myth has to do -with the adventures of a young man who, impelled by curiosity to know -where the river waters went, made a trip on a hollow log down the -Colorado to its mouth. There he had many dealings with the Snake people, -in whose ways he was instructed by the friendly Spider Woman. Finally he -married the Snake chief’s daughter, and brought her to his own country. -The first children of this union were snakes, which the Hopis drove -away, but the next were human, and these, the ancestors of the present -Snake Clan, came to Walpi to live. The entire ceremony continues -throughout 9 days, and is conducted secretly in the underground _kiva_ -until near sunset of the last day. Then the priests dramatically emerge -into the upper air, and the dance with the snakes occurs. It is all over -in about half an hour, but that half hour is what brings the crowd—about -the most thrilling and wide-awake performance that is offered anywhere -in America. Though the Snake Dance takes place annually, all the -villages do not hold it the same year. The most frequented presentations -are those at Walpi, held in the odd years, as 1917, 1919, etc., and at -Oraibi, the latter in the even years, as 1918, 1920, etc. - -The Snake Dance attracts largely through the horror awakened in most of -us by reptiles, though it possesses many elements of majestic beauty, -too. There are numerous other Hopi ceremonies whose dominant feature to -the white onlooker is simple beauty; for instance, the picturesque Flute -ceremony held at springs below the mesas, and then along the ascending -trails to the mesa-top accompanied by songs, the music of native flutes -and the scattering of flowers. This ceremony, which is also the -dramatization of a legend[59] as well as an invocation for rain, -alternates with the Snake Dance, being held at about but not at the -identical time with it, and always at other pueblos than those holding -the Snake Dance. This permits attenders at one to witness the other -also. Then at all the pueblos there are the autumnal Basket Dances of -the women, and in spring and summer the many beautiful Katchina Dances. -Katchinas are the deified spirits of the Hopis’ ancestors, and are -intercessors with the greater gods for divine favors for the Hopis. They -are supposed to reside amid the San Francisco Peaks, where the home of -the Sun god is, the great dispenser of blessings. Their annual visits -(Indians of the pueblo impersonating the gods) are the occasions of much -merry-making, of songs and processions, and dances in mask and gay -costumes. Each god has his distinctive mask and dress, and the queer -little wooden “dolls” (as the traders call them, though “Katchina” is -the better word), which the visitors find in Hopi houses are careful -representations of these, made for the children of the household to -familiarize themselves with the characteristic aspect of each divinity. -“These dances,” to quote Mr. Walter Hough, whose excellent little work, -“The Hopi,” should be read by every intending visitor, “show the -cheerful Hopi at his best—a true spontaneous child of nature. They are -the most characteristic ceremonies of the pueblos, most musical, -spectacular and pleasing. They are really more worthy of the attention -of white people than the forbidding Snake Dance, which overshadows them -by the elements of horror.” - -Visitors who allow themselves to be hurried up to the Hopi towns the day -before the Snake Dance and then packed off home the next morning, as -most of them do, may think they have had a good time, but it is largely -the bliss of ignorance. They do not know what they have missed by not -spending a week or two. To be sure accommodations are limited and -primitive, but one must expect to rough it more or less in Indian -country. Still the Hopis are not savages and one can be made -comfortable. It is generally possible to rent one of the small houses at -the foot of the mesa, if one does not bring one’s own camp outfit, and -there are traders at most of the villages where supplies of necessaries -may be obtained. Climb the trail to the sunny, breeze-swept mesa top; -get acquainted with the merry, well-behaved little children—easy enough, -particularly if you have a little stock of candy; watch the women making -_piki_ (the thin wafer-like corn-bread of many colors that is the Hopi -staff of life), or molding or burning pottery; see the men marching off, -huge hoes on shoulder, to cultivate their corn and beans, sometimes -miles away, in damp spots of the desert, or coming inward-bound driving -burros laden with firewood or products of the field. All this, in an -architectural setting that is as picturesque as Syria, replete with -entrancing “bits” that are a harvest to the artist or the kodaker. After -a day or two you will have had your measure pretty well taken by the -population, and granting your manners have been decent, you will be -making friends, and every day will show you something new in the life of -this most interesting race. Of course there is a difference in the -different towns—the customs of some have been more modified than others -by contact with the whites and the influence of the Government -educational system. The Walpians and their neighbors are perhaps the -most Americanized; the people of Hótavila and Shimópovi, the least so. - -The Hopis possess arts of great interest. Pottery of beautiful form and -design is made at Hano[60] of the First Mesa. This tiny village has the -honor of being the home of the most famous of Indian potters, Nampéyo, -whose work is so exquisite that it looks distinctive in any company. Her -daughter Kwatsoa seems nearly as gifted. Then there is basketry. -Curiously enough the East Mesa makes no baskets whatever, and the -baskets of the Middle Mesa are quite of another sort from those of the -Third Mesa, and both so different from all other Indian baskets -whatsoever, as to be recognized at a glance. The Third Mesa baskets are -woven wicker work usually in the form of a tray or plaque, the design -symbolizing birds, clouds, butterflies, etc., in glaring aniline dyes. -Those of the Second Mesa are in heavy coils sewed together with a thread -of the yucca wrapping, and in various shapes from flat to globular, the -latter sometimes provided with handles. Weaving is an ancient Hopi art -that is now unfortunately decadent. In pre-Spanish days and for some -time afterwards, the Hopi cultivated a native cotton,[61] and cotton is -still woven by them into ceremonial kilts and cord. Formerly they were -famous weavers of rabbit-skin blankets. The visitor may still run across -an occasional one in the pueblos, but the blanket of wool has long since -displaced them. The Hopis make of weaving a man’s business, which is -usually carried on in the _kivas_ when these are not being used for -religious purposes. They specialize in women’s _mantas_, or one-piece -dresses, of a dark color with little or no ornamentation. - - - - - CHAPTER X - THE PETRIFIED FOREST OF ARIZONA - - -Everybody enjoys his stop off at the Petrified Forest. For one thing, -this sight is as easy of achievement as falling off a log, and that -counts heavily with your average American tourist. Even if your train -drops you at Adamana[62] in the middle of the night, as some trains do, -there will be somebody there to carry your bag and pilot you the couple -of hundred yards to the lone hotel which, with the railroad station and -the water tank, is practically all there is of Adamana. Then you are put -comfortably to bed in a room that awaits you. In the morning you are -given a leisurely breakfast at your own hour, and packed in an -automobile to see one part of the Forest; brought home to luncheon; and -in the afternoon motored off to another part. If you are an invalid or -just naturally lazy, you need not even leave your seat in the -conveyance. After that it is your choice to proceed on your travels, or -stay over another day and visit more distant parts of the Forest. In -seeing the Forest, you incidentally have several miles of reasonably -easy driving over the vast northern Arizona plateau with its wide views -to the edge of a world hemmed in with many a dreamy mountain range and -long, colorful, flat-topped mesas breaking away in terraces and steps to -the plains. You will quite possibly see coyotes and jackrabbits and -prairie dogs, cattle grazing the wild grasses, a Navajo Indian or two, -cowboys on their loping ponies, perhaps a round-up with its trailing -chuckwagon. You will steep yourself in the delicious Arizona sunshine, -and be humbled before the majesty of the glorious Arizona sky, blue as -sapphire and piled high at times with colossal masses of cumulus clouds -that forevermore will mean Arizona to you. - -The Forest is unfortunately mis-named, for it is not a forest. There is -not a single standing trunk, such as you may see occasionally in Utah or -the Yellowstone. In the midst of a treeless plain the broken logs litter -the ground in sections rarely over 25 feet long, oftenest in short -chunks as if sawn apart, and in chips and splinters innumerable. Trunk -diameters of 2 or 3 feet are common, and as high as 6 feet has been -reported. It seems likely that the trees did not grow where they now lie -but have been washed hither in some prehistoric swirl of waters, (as -logs are carried down stream in our latter-day puny freshets,) becoming -stranded in certain depressions of the land where we now find them, -often having had their woody tissue gradually replaced by silica and -agatized. Whence they came nobody knows, nor when. The guess of the -unlettered guide who shows you about, may be as near right as the -trained geologist’s, who locates the time of their fall as the Triassic -Age, and their old home as perhaps beside some inland sea; but whether -that was one million years ago or twenty, who can say, further than that -they surely antedate the appearance of man upon this planet. The trees -are evidently of different sorts, but mostly conifers apparently related -to our present day araucarias, of which the Norfolk Island pine is a -familiar example. Mr. F. H. Knowlton, botanist of the Smithsonian -Institution, identifies then as _Araucarioxylon Arizonicum_, an extinct -tree once existing also in the east-central United States.[63] Limbs and -branches in anything approaching entirety are not found—only the trunks -and infinite fragments are here. The coloration due to the presence of -iron oxides in the soil at the time of silicification is often -exquisite, in shades of pink, yellow, blue, brown, crimson—a never -failing source of delight to visitors. Dr. L. F. Ward, of the United -States Geological Survey, has said that “there is no other petrified -forest in which the wood assumes so many varied and interesting forms -and colors.... The state of mineralization in which much of this wood -exists almost places it among the gems or precious stones. Not only are -chalcedony, opals and agates found among them, but many approach the -condition of jasper and onyx.”[64] - -The parts of the Forest that tourists usually visit are the so-called -First Forest, about 6 miles south of Adamana (which contains the huge -trunk that spans a picturesque chasm 45 feet wide, and is known as the -Natural Bridge[65]); the Second Forest, 2½ miles further south; and the -North Forest. The last is 9 miles due north from Adamana, at the edge of -such a chaotic, burned-out bit of volcanic waste, as is in itself worth -seeing, breaking away gradually into the Painted Desert. If for any -reason, your time is too limited to admit of your visiting more than one -section of the Forest, by all means, let that section be this North -Forest. The trees are less numerous and the fragments are less -strikingly colored than in the parts to the south, but that background -of color and mystery given by the desert, lends a fascination and gives -to the picture a composition that is unique and unforgettable. - -There is, moreover, the so-called Third or Rainbow Forest,[66] 13 miles -southwest of Adamana. This region contains the most numerous and the -largest trunks, some of them (partially underground) measuring upwards -of 200 feet in length. The especially rich coloring of the wood here has -given rise to the local name “Rainbow.” - -In several parts of the Petrified Forest (a large portion of which is -now, by the way, a National Monument), are the ruins of many small -prehistoric Indian villages. The relics found indicate that four -different stocks of Indians have lived among these shattered trees, one -clearly Hopi, another probably Zuñian, the others undetermined (one -apparently of cannibalistic habits). Dr. Walter Hough has written very -entertainingly of this human interest of the Petrified Forest in -Harpers’ Magazine for November, 1902. The houses of the Rainbow Forest -were unique in aboriginal architecture in that they were constructed of -petrified logs. To quote Dr. Hough: “It is probable that prehistoric -builders never chose more beautiful stones for the construction of their -habitations than the trunks of the trees which flourished ages before -man appeared on the earth. This wood agate also furnished material for -stone hammers, arrowheads and knives, which are often found in ruins -hundreds of miles from the Forest.”[67] - -[Illustration] - - IN THE NORTH PETRIFIED FOREST - - Near Adamana, Arizona. A glimpse of the famous Painted Desert in the - background. - -[Illustration] - - A CORNER IN SANTA FE, N. M. - - The New Mexican capital retains to this day many picturesque - features of the Spanish and Mexican dominance. - - - - - CHAPTER XI - FLAGSTAFF AS A BASE - - -A score of years ago Flagstaff[68] was chiefly known to the traveler as -the gateway to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, 70 miles to the -northwest. One may still reach that marvelous chasm by automobile from -Flagstaff, arriving at Grand View after 5 or 6 hours’ driving, now -through a park-like forest of yellow pine, now across an open plateau -region with alluring views of far-off mountain ranges and of the Painted -Desert. The completion of the railroad spur from Williams to the Grand -Cañon, however, put a quietus upon the operation of the horse stages -from Flagstaff; and since the passing of the Grand Cañon business the -town has cut small figure in tourist itineraries, its energies since -being concentrated on the less precarious profits from lumber, cattle -and wool. Nevertheless, its situation in a clearing of the beautiful -Coconino National Forest, 7000 feet above the sea makes it a convenient -base for visiting certain attractions of a remarkable nature thereabout, -as lava beds, ice caves, extinct volcanoes, prehistoric cliff[69] and -cinder-cone dwellings, the Painted Desert, and the famous San Francisco -Peaks, fabled home of the Hopi Katchinas and the scene of many an Indian -legend. The town has several hotels of a modest sort, and is on the line -of the National Old Trails transcontinental motor highway; and if you -have your own car or the wherewithal to rent one in Flagstaff, you can -be very happy in this neighborhood for a week or two. The town itself, -with a population of a couple of thousand, has a certain picturesqueness -of an up-to-date frontier fashion, in which automobiles and soda-pop -largely take the place of ponies, pistols and “forty-rod,” for at this -writing the hand of “bone dry” Prohibition rests paternally upon -Arizona. Especially interesting are Saturday nights, when the streets -are likely to be thronged with lumberjacks, cowpunchers and -ranchers—American and Mexican—come to town to swap news and trade, to -see the “shows,” play pool and listen to the “rag” of blatant -gramophones. A Navajo or two, standing in the glare of the electric -lights, may add a touch of aboriginal color to the scene—teamsters for -some desert trading post. - -Dominating Flagstaff, as Mont Blanc dominates Chamonix, is the isolated -mountain mass, the highest in Arizona, called the San Francisco Peaks, -snow-crowned seven or eight months in the year and familiar to every -traveler by the Santa Fe’s transcontinental trains. Their clustered -half-dozen summits in the form of graceful cones attain a maximum -elevation of 12,611 feet above the sea (5600 feet above Flagstaff) and -have been a famous landmark from the time of the Spanish conquistadores, -who named them, to the present day. The Navajos, as has been told in a -previous chapter, assign to the great mountain a divine construction -from earth brought up in the Emergence from the underworld, the gods who -built it pinning it down poetically with a sunbeam. Matter-of-fact -geologists, however, consider the mass as merely an extinct volcano with -its top blown off, and find its flanks covered with the congealed lava -streams of successive eruptions. The disintegrated surfaces of lava make -a fertile bed for the abundant forests, gardens of wild flowers, and -natural fields of indigenous grasses that clothe the base and sides up -to within a few hundred feet of the craggy top. If you have a taste for -mountain climbing and fine outlooks, by all means give a day or two to -the San Francisco Mountain. It is of easiest ascent, and the views, full -of delight from the moment you leave Flagstaff, attain at the summit a -climax that is nothing short of dramatic. The whole of the northern and -central Arizona plateau is spread below and about you in such glory of -color (if the atmospheric conditions be right) as you have never dreamt -of. You can pick out the farther wall of the Grand Cañon and the -Buckskin Mountains beyond; the companion volcanic cones of Kendrick, -Bill Williams,[70] and Sitgreaves to the westward; the Mogollon Mesa -stretching south towards Phoenix; the Verde Valley; the Red Rock Country -and Oak Creek Cañon; Sunset Peak;[71] and most striking of all, the -glory of the Painted Desert stretching illimitably to the northeast, -with the Little Colorado River winding across it to join the Big -Colorado 60 miles due north of you. The opportunity to enjoy that -unobscured outlook upon the desert from a point over a mile above it, is -alone a sufficient reward for the trip. It is like looking on another -world, so unearthly are the tones in which that marvelous waste is -dyed—indefinite shades of yellow, pink, crimson, brown, cream, green; so -striking the sculpturing of its mesas and promontories. Then, too, if -you have a spark of romance in your make-up, will it not be an event to -tread the very pathways of the gods with whom the Indian fancy has -peopled the glades and gorges of this hoary old volcano, as the Greeks -peopled Ida—to know that somewhere in these sunny, piny slopes is the -fabled house of the Sun God, who, when he would travel, summons a -rainbow, as you or I would ring for a taxicab, and to whom, it is said, -the Hopis still send prayer plumes by a messenger who trots the 70 miles -from the pueblos hither between sunrise and sunset of a summer day? - -Would it not give you a thrill to feel when passing through the aspen -groves that dot the upper heights, that in such a rustling wood here -upon this very mountain, when the world was young, the Hero-Children of -the Spider Woman slew the wicked Giant Elk who ravaged the land of the -Hopi—those Hero-Children of whom one was Youth, begotten of the Light, -and the other Echo, begotten of the Raindrop?[72] - -From Flagstaff to the tip of Humphrey’s Peak, the highest of all, is 10 -miles in a bee-line, or about 15 as pedestrians and horses go. Of this -distance about 5 miles are by a good road practicable for automobiles, -now winding through open forest, now skirting some ranch—a pleasant, -old-fashioned highway bordered with worm fences and thickets of wild -rose and goldenrod. From a certain point on the road to the Peaks, which -are always in view, an easy trail leads through a charming forest to -which the absence of underbrush gives a park-like character, open and -sunny and carpeted in places with wild flowers. The prevailing trees for -a couple of thousand feet of the ascent are yellow pines, rising at -their best to a height of over 100 feet and probably of an age of 300 to -500 years. Above this yellow pine belt the trail steepens and zigzags -sharply bringing you out at last amid broken stone and volcanic scoriae -where no trees are, only shy sub-alpine plants clinging by their toes to -the crevices of the rocks. Here a hog-back joins Humphrey’s Peak (12,611 -feet) and Agassiz (12,330 feet), and you have the choice of mounting to -either or both. Under the eastern slopes of these peaks a glacier 2 -miles long once headed, whose bed is now a large valley within the -mountain’s folds dropping downward to the northeast. To the geological, -this valley with its moraine and glaciated rocks is a source of especial -interest, since it constitutes one of the southernmost instances of ice -action within the United States.[73] - -A good walker used to high altitudes can do the round trip from -Flagstaff to the summit and back in a day of 12 hours, but he should be -sure to carry water. For the average tourist, however, horseback is -recommended with a guide (procurable at Flagstaff). Added interest will -be secured by arranging to camp over night upon the mountain, for in -this way the superb light effects of early morning and evening may be -enjoyed at leisure. Owing to snow on the peaks most of the year, the -ascent must usually be made between mid-June and mid-October. June is -probably the best month, if snow is absent, as the atmosphere is then -apt to be at its clearest; after that, September or early October is the -choice. July and August are months of frequent, almost daily, -thunderstorms, which, of course, are disturbing factors in more ways -than one. Flagstaff, by the way, is credited by the United States’ -Geological Survey with a greater rainfall than any other station in -Arizona, and this is attributed to its nearness to the San Francisco -Mountain. - -Should you desire a closer acquaintance with that harlequin of wastes, -the Painted Desert, there are from Flagstaff two trips you can take -across an end of it with reasonable success in a motor car. One is to -the Hopi village of Oraibi by way of Tolcheco, and the other to Tuba. -The distance in each case is about 70 miles. To Tuba there is a -semi-weekly automobile stage (with shovel and water bags strapped to -it), making the round trip usually inside of one day. It is an -interesting excursion, taking you close to Sunset Peak, with its -remarkable rosy crest, and over the Little Colorado River by a bridge -that makes the traveler independent of the sudden rises of that erratic -stream. You will pass here and there mounds that are the crumbled -remains of prehistoric pueblos, and again stone chips and bits of trunks -of petrified trees, the scattered fragments of vanished forests of which -the Petrified Forest of Adamana is our most perfect remnant. Sometimes -we pass beneath ruddy cliffs eroded and weathered into such -grotesqueness of face and figure as would make Alice out of Wonderland -feel at home, squat toads and humped camels and ogres with thick -grinning lips. Farther away, mesas jutting into the desert present the -semblance of cities with towers and ramparts in ghostly tones of pink -and yellow and cream.[74] Occasionally an auto-truck, hauling goods to -or from some desert trade-post, passes you, and sometimes a wagon train -of wool, horse-drawn, in charge of Navajo teamsters. Approaching Tuba, -you cross the Moenkopi Wash, and are refreshed with the greenery of the -farms of the Hopis, who from time immemorial have occupied this haunt of -moisture. If you have time to visit the little pueblo of Moenkopi, 2 -miles from Tuba and perched on the mesa edge overlooking the farms, it -will interest you. It is the westernmost of all the Hopi villages, its -population of a couple of hundred enjoying life in Indian fashion with -abounding dances and thanksgiving. At Tuba itself, there is not much for -the casual visitor, except a couple of Indian trading establishments and -a Government Boarding School with its concomitant buildings connected -with the Agency of the Western Navajo Reservation. The region -roundabout, however, includes enough points of local interest to occupy -a two or three weeks’ vacation very pleasantly. Accommodations are -obtainable at a trader’s or one of the Government houses, and saddle -horses may be hired from the Indians. Some 65 miles to the north are -certain remarkably fine pueblo- or Cliff dwelling-ruins, known as Betata -Kin and Keet Seel, in Marsh Pass.[75] - -Twenty or thirty miles south of Flagstaff is a region of unique -interest, known as the Oak Creek Valley, whither Flagstaffians motor in -season to fish for trout and enjoy a bit of Arcady. There are a public -resort or two and a number of ranches in the valley, tributary to which -is some of the wildest scenery in the Southwest. In adjacent cañons, -whose sides often rise an almost sheer 800 to 1000 feet, are the ruined -habitations of a prehistoric people (probably ancestors of certain -existing Hopi clans)—cliff houses, cavate dwellings and fortified -eminences, the last advantageously adopted by the Apaches in the wars of -half a century ago. The dominant color of the rock is bright red, -frequently in horizontal bands, and has gained the region the popular -appellation of “The Red Rock Country.” The cañon walls and outstanding -rock masses have been worn by the elements into columns, minarets, -steeples, temples and other architectural semblances such as are shown -surpassingly in the Grand Cañon. Indian pictographs abound—some -prehistoric, some evidently of modern Apache doing. Dr. J. W. Fewkes, -the scientific discoverer of the region a quarter of a century ago, -thought himself justified in comparing it to the Garden of the Gods, -than which it is much more extended.[76] - - - - - CHAPTER XII - THE GRAND CAÑON OF THE COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA - - -From Williams, on the Santa Fe’s transcontinental line, a branch runs -due north across 65 miles of the great Colorado Plateau and lands the -traveler at the very rim of the Grand Cañon—one of the most enjoyable, -most novel, most awakening sights among the Southwest’s marvels. Even if -your arrival be at darkest midnight, you will _feel_ the nearness of -that awful void in the unseen—a strange and humbling experience. For -accommodations you have the choice of American plan and what passes in -the wilderness for luxury at the big El Továr Hotel,[77] or of lodging -yourself more economically but comfortably enough in cabin or tent at -the nearby Bright Angel Camp with meals _á la carte_ at the Harvey Café. -Then you will want to know what to see. - -The Grand Cañon is among those stupendous natural wonders that the -traveler needs time to adjust himself to; and I am inclined to believe -that his first act in wisdom is to sit down at the rim with a -comprehensive map before him and spend a leisurely hour studying -geography. Fortunately a very good practical map is included in the -Santa Fe’s folder that describes the Cañon, and this may be had of any -agent for the asking. The names, taken from all sorts of mythologies and -philosophies—Hindu, Chinese, Norse, British, Greek, Egyptian, with a -dash of Aztec and latter day American—and given to the various prominent -shapes simulating temples, pagodas, castles, towers, colonnades and what -not, are rather bewildering and indeed seem out of place in mid-Arizona. -In better taste, I think, are the more simply named spots that -commemorate adjacent native tribes as Hopi, Walapai, Zuñi; old white -dwellers by the rim like Bass, Rowe and Hance; and explorers associated -with the Cañon, such as Powell, Escalante and Cárdenas. Cárdenas, it may -not be amiss to state, was the officer dispatched by Coronado from Zuñi -to learn the truth about the great gorge and river, the report of which -Tovar had brought him from the Hopis. It was Cárdenas and his little -company of a dozen soldiers, who, one autumn day of 1540, were the first -white men to look into the mighty chasm. At the bottom they could detect -the great river flowing, seemingly a mere thread of a rivulet; but their -attempts to reach it were fruitless, so precipitous they found the Cañon -walls.[78] The stream that first received the name of Colorado, is the -one we now call Little Colorado. Oñate dubbed it so—Spanish for -red—because of the color of its turbid waters. The greater river in -Cárdenas’s day was known as _el Rio del Tizón_, the river of the -Fire-brand—a name given it by explorers of its lower waters because of -certain Indians on its bank whom the Spaniards saw warming themselves -with brands taken from the fire. The Colorado River as we now know it, -and including its tributaries the Grand and the Green, drains a region -only secondary to the basin of the Mississippi. Its length from the -headwaters of the Green in Wyoming to the outlet into the Gulf of -California is about 2000 miles. The Grand Cañon (including 65 miles -above the junction with the Little Colorado and known as Marble Cañon) -is 283 miles in length, the walls varying from 3000 to nearly 6000 feet -high and rising from the river in a series of huge steps or terraces, so -that the width, which at the river is from about 100 to 600 feet, -increases to several miles at the rim. The deepest part of the chasm is -near the hotels, and the river there flows over a mile below them.[79] -The Cañon walls are the delight of geologists, who find there in orderly -arrangement (stratum upon stratum in banded colors) the deposits of the -successive ages of the earth from the archaean granite to the lava flows -of recent geologic time. A succinct and readable account of the -geological features of the Cañon will be found in the United States -Geological Survey’s admirable Guide Book of the Western United States, -Part C—a book of especial value to the car-window observer on the Santa -Fe route. - -Trains to the Cañon are arranged so that travelers may reach it in the -early morning and leave the same evening. In a way this is unfortunate, -for it offers a temptation, almost irresistible to an American tourist, -to “do” the place in a day and go on to some other sight. Of course no -one _can_ do it in a day, but he can do certain things, and he can get a -notion of the general scheme. Three days at least would best be planned -for, and of course more still would be better. The principal features -that should not be missed, may be summed up as follows: A horseback trip -down into the Cañon by either Bright Angel Trail or the Hermit Trail; -the drive (15 miles the round) over the Hermit Rim road; the auto trip -(26 miles the round) to Grand View Point. There are, moreover, several -short drives of four or five miles by public coach to vantage points -along the rim, costing a dollar or two per passenger; and of course -walks innumerable, among which that to Hopi Point, about 2 miles -northwest from the railway terminus, is particularly to be recommended -for its sunset view of the Cañon. Another pleasant short rim walk is to -Yavapai Point, 1½ miles to the eastward. From both these points the view -is superb. - -The trip down the Bright Angel[80] trail to the river and back is an all -day jaunt. To the tenderfoot it is a somewhat harrowing experience to be -borne downward at an angle of 45 degrees more or less on the back of a -wobbling animal, whose head at times hangs over eternity, and whose only -footing is on a narrow shelf scratched out of a precipitous wall of the -Cañon. However, as nothing tragical happens, and as there is no escape -once you are started on the _descensus Averni_, you soon find enjoyment -in the novel trip, zigzagging ever downward through successive geologic -ages marked by rock strata in white, red, brown and blue. - -Something over half way down there is a grateful let-up, when the trail -runs out upon a plateau watered by a musical little brook. This place is -known as “The Indian Garden.” It is enclosed on three sides by lofty -reddish walls, and here some Havasupai Indians are said to have had in -comparatively recent times a village, and to have cultivated the land. -Long before them, however, _en el tiempo de cuanto ha_, as the Pueblo -story tellers say in poetic Spanish (“in the time of how long ago”), -another race must have tilled the same soil, as the near-by cliffs -maintain numerous remains of rock dwellings and other evidences of human -occupancy. It is a pleasant, flowery, romantic spot, this Indian Garden, -in the Cañon’s crimson heart, with its fascinating environment of rock -sculpturings that seem the towers, palaces and temples of an enchanted -city awaiting the lifting of a spell. At the plateau’s outer edge you -have a stupendous view of the colossal gorge and the muddy torrent of -the river, leaping and roaring 1300 feet below. You may make the Indian -Garden the limit of your descent, or you may continue to the river -itself, corkscrewing down among the crevices and rockbound ways and -echoes of the inexorable wall until you come out upon a little beach, -past which, more terrible than beautiful, the savage torrent thunders -and cascades and tears its course to freedom. You will be glad to get -into the blessed upper world again, but you would not have missed the -experience for a greater cost of clambering. - -The Hermit Rim road is a first-class modern highway (so far barred, -thank heaven, to automobiles), extending about 7½ miles westward from El -Tovar by way of Hopi Point to the Hermit Basin. Part of it passes -through beautiful stretches of park-like forest, emerging upon the dizzy -brink of the Cañon with magnificent outlooks over chasm and river to -distant mountains and cloud-piled sky. If you enjoy walking, it is -pleasant to do this trip one way in the public coach and the other afoot -by way of Rowe’s Well. The Hermit Rim Road ends at the head of a -comparatively new trail to the river, a sort of trail _de luxe_, 4 feet -wide and protected by a stone wall very reassuring to the apprehensive. -As on the Bright Angel trail, there is a plateau midway. Here a public -camp is maintained, where accommodations for an over-night stay may be -had. From this camp to the river must be done afoot—an easy grade, it is -said, but I cannot speak from personal knowledge. There is a trail -connecting the lower portions of Hermit and Bright Angel trails, so that -one may go to the river by one route and return by the other. This -consumes 3 days ordinarily, and must be taken as a camping trip with its -concomitant ups and downs. It is hardly to be recommended to any but the -reasonably robust—and good natured! - -Grand View Point, 13 miles east of El Tovar—a beautiful drive that may -be done by motor car through the Coconino Forest—is the terminus of the -old-time stage route from Flagstaff. The view at the point is perhaps -the finest of all—quite different from that at El Tovar and more -extended: owing to the greater width between the main walls of the -Cañon; to the fact that the river here makes a sharp turn to the north; -and the further fact that the relative lowness of the eastern wall of -the bend opens up a vista towards the desert, which at El Tovar is -hidden. The Grand View round trip with a look-around at Grand View Point -may be done in half a day from El Tovar, but if one can afford to give a -day or two to it, the material is here to be worth the extra time. Here -is a hotel to care for you. Particularly of interest is the trail to -Moran Point, some half dozen miles to the east, an exquisite outlook and -the view point of Thomas Moran’s famous picture of the Cañon which -occupies a place in the Capitol at Washington. There is a trail down to -the river from Grand View Point, and another by way of Red Cañon, -heading a little to the west of Moran Point. A connecting trail at the -bottom of the Cañon makes it possible to descend by one trail and return -by the other, if one goes prepared to camp by the river. There are, by -the way, several varieties of fish in the Colorado, one, the so-called -Colorado salmon,[81] being a good table fish, though the catching -involves no sport, as it is not gamey. - -The Grand Cañon may be visited at any season, though in winter there is -often snow upon the rim and upper levels. Usually there is not enough to -interfere seriously with reaching the various points of interest; and as -one descends into the gorge, one soon passes out of wintry into warmer -and still warmer conditions. Even in December some flowers will be -blooming in the bottom of the Cañon. July and August constitute the -usual summer rainy season, when frequent thunderstorms are to be -expected, particularly in the afternoons. They are usually of short -duration. The atmospheric effects accompanying and succeeding them are -often magnificent.[82] - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - MONTEZUMA’S CASTLE AND WELL, WHICH MONTEZUMA NEVER SAW - - -If you happen never to have speculated in copper or archaeology and are -not a Southwesterner, it is quite likely that you have not heard of the -Verde Valley. It is a somewhat sinuous cleft up and down the very center -of Arizona, holding in its heart the Verde River (_el Rio Verde_, or -Green River, of the Spaniards) which has its source under the San -Francisco Peaks, and after 150 miles or so through cramped cañons and -sunny bottomlands of more or less fertility, joins the Salt River about -50 miles east of the latter’s junction with the Gila. On the western -edge of its upper reaches are the smelter towns of Clarkdale and -Jerome,[83] and the famous copper mines of the United Verde Company. -Across the valley from these, to the eastward and bordering the great -Mogollon Mesa that divides the basin of the Little Colorado and the -Gila, is that Red Rock country referred to in a previous chapter, -together with the Verde’s beautiful tributary, Oak Creek; while some 30 -miles to the south there enters the Verde another stream called Beaver -Creek. It is upon the latter the scene of this present chapter is laid. - -[Illustration] - - OLD GOVERNOR’S PALACE, SANTA FE, N. M. - - The center for three centuries of the political life of New Mexico, - under the successive regimes of Spaniard, Indian, Mexican and - American. - -[Illustration] - - MONTEZUMA’S CASTLE - - Near Camp Verde, Arizona. A beautiful specimen of prehistoric Cliff - architecture, with which, however, Montezuma had nothing to do. - -Today the valley of the Verde maintains but a sparse population. Here -and there is a white man’s hamlet; here and there are wickiups of the -now peaceable Apaches; and where, between the cliffs that wall in much -of the valley, there is level land enough to make farming operations -possible, there are scattering ranches strung along. Time was, however, -when the valley was the home of an abounding aboriginal population. How -long ago that was no one knows, further than that it was before—and -probably long before—the 16th century Spaniards discovered the Upper -Verde and reported silver outcroppings there. The bordering cliffs and -hilltops are dotted and honeycombed with the ruins of pueblos, stone -fortresses and cave dwellings to an extent that has made the region -unusually attractive to the archaeologists. Two of these prehistoric -remains on Beaver Creek hold especial interest also for the lay -traveler. They are the so-called Casa Montezuma, or Montezuma’s Castle, -and Montezuma’s Well. The former, a strikingly fine example of a cliff -ruin as imposing in its way as a castle on the Rhine, has been made a -National Monument and is under such protection of the United States -government as goes with a printed notice tacked upon a tree nearby, for -there is no resident guardian. The Well is upon a private ranch 8 miles -north of the Castle. It need hardly be said that Montezuma, whose name -is popularly joined to both, had nothing whatever to do with either; nor -indeed had any Aztec, though people who get their ancient history from -newspapers, will tell you that the ruins are of Aztec construction. Both -Castle and Well are close to the Arizona State Highway, and may be -reached by a 50 or 60 mile drive from Flagstaff, or half that from -Jerome. Another way to reach them is from Prescott by automobile livery. -Yet another is by rail from Prescott to Cherry Creek (Dewey Postoffice) -on the Crown King branch of the Santa Fe, and then by auto-stage through -the picturesque Cherry Creek Cañon 32 miles to Campe Verde on the Verde -River. Campe Verde was formerly an army post of importance during the -Apache wars, but is now peaceful enough for the most pacific, -maintaining a hotel, a garage, a barber shop, an ice-cream and soda-pop -saloon, a store or two, and similar amenities of 20th century living as -delightful as unexpected in this out-of-the-way corner of our country. - -And I think here is as good a place as any to say a word about the -modern Southwestern mail stage. It is, of course, motor-driven in this -mechanical age, and lacks the peculiar dash and picturesqueness of the -4- and 6-horse vehicles of other days. Nevertheless, much of the charm -that enveloped western stage travel then clings to the modern -auto-stage. There is the same immersion in glorious, wild scenery; the -same thrill of excitement as you spin down mountain grades and around -curves with a cañon yawning hungrily beside you; the same exhilaration -of association with fellow passengers of types foreign to Broadway or La -Salle Street; many times there is the same driver, who, surrendering the -ribbon for a steering wheel, has not at all changed his nature. The seat -beside him is still the premium place, and if he takes a fancy to you, -he will exude information, anecdote and picturesque fiction as freely as -a spring its refreshing waters. To travel a bit by stage, when occasion -offers, gives a flavor to your Southwestern outing that you will be -sorry to have missed. Besides, it sometimes saves you money and time. - -From Camp Verde to Montezuma’s Castle is a pleasant 3 mile jaunt. Of -course you may miss the trail, as I did, and walk six, but if you keep -close to Beaver Creek, with a sharp eye ahead, you can detect the ruin -from nearly a mile away, snugly ensconced high up in a niche of a pale -cliff, overlooking the valley. It is a comparatively small ruin, but -there is a charm in its very compactness. And there is the charm, too, -of color, the general tone of the buildings being pink set in a framing -of white. The base is about 75 feet above the level of the creek that -flows at the foot of the cliff—flows, that is, when water happens to be -in it, which is not always. The structure itself is perhaps 30 feet -high, with substantial squared walls of masonry, and is in 5 stories, -access from one to another being either by openings in the ceilings or -by modern ladders fastened against the outside walls. How the ancients -managed the ascent from the ground, there is none to tell us. An -interesting feature is a bowed parapet or battlement (the height of -one’s shoulder), which surmounts the fourth story, and from below hides -the fifth story rooms which are placed well back against the innermost -part of the cliff recess and roofed by its overhang. Be sure you climb -to that battlemented upper story (it will be no easy job, for you have -to swing yourself up to it through the ceiling of the fourth), and -leaning upon the parapet, enjoy the solitude that stretches before -you—from the sycamores lining Beaver Creek at the cliff’s foot, across -the mesquite-dotted mesa, and the green bottomlands of the Verde to the -long purple range of the Black Hills in the dim southwest. If any sound -there be, it is the whisper of the wind in the trees far below, or the -cooing of the wild doves, which haunt the place. So do bats, and a -certain queer acidulous smell that pervades the rooms is attributable to -them. As you walk about, your feet stir up the dust of ages. Here and -there on the mud-plastered walls are human finger prints dried in the -material when it was laid on by prehistoric hands. In some of the rooms, -particularly in certain cave dwellings (which, following the natural -ledges, you will find scooped out of the tufa cliff beside the Castle), -the ceiling and walls are blackened still with soot from the smoke of -pre-Columbian fires. You may pick up bits of pottery, as you stroll, -corn-cobs wizened of the ages, broken metates, or malpais rubbing -stones, mute reminders of the human drama once enacted here. The airy -battlement is pierced with downward-pointing loopholes through which -arrows were doubtless shot at foes below. It is this abounding and -evident human touch, this mystery of a long vanished human life, that -lends to Southwestern travel a unique fascination, reaching to something -in us that is not awakened by purely natural aspects more sublime but -disassociated from man. In spite of the fact that men will kill one -another, mistreat, enslave and exploit one another, men never lose a -supreme interest in men; stronger than all is the yearning of the human -heart for other human hearts. Is it love outwearing love’s antithesis? - -Montezuma’s Well is 8 miles further up Beaver Creek, and is reached by a -public highway quite practicable for automobiles when the fords of the -creek are not running high water. You pass a ranch every mile or so, and -the Well itself is found to be situated inside the wire fences of one. -After the hospitable and unexacting solitude of Montezuma’s Castle, you -will experience a bit of a shock, perhaps, at the fences and in finding -that a fee of half a dollar is imposed for entrance to the Well. -Nevertheless the sight is worth the money. Proceeding from the ranch -house across an eighth of a mile of open, treeless mesa, you come quite -without warning, to a crater-like[84] opening 500 feet across, yawning -at your feet. Its walls drop almost perpendicularly some 60 feet or more -to a round pool of clear water steel blue, except around the margins, -where accumulations of pondweed give it a brown tinge. There is a -precipitous, stony trail down which you may pick your way to the water’s -edge; and there, as in the bottom of a colossal mush-bowl, you are hid -from the world and the world from you. Catclaw and wild grape, hackberry -and wild walnut and salt-bush make a scrubby cover roundabout, with -datura and cleome and blooming wild tobacco adding a flower-touch. There -is here as at Montezuma’s Castle a peculiar sense of loneliness and -silence—broken only by an occasional bird note, or the hum of vagabond -bees. In the clear, still waters of the pool are reflections of the -cliffs, and raising your eyes to them you recognize in the southern side -a few squat little stone houses wedged in between the strata of the rock -walls. You can, if you choose, easily climb to some of them, and -stooping through the small doorways get a taste of what it was like to -be a cliff dweller. At the north end of the pond there is a thicket of -willows and cottonwoods, and there the waters find their exit by an -underground passage that would lead them into Beaver Creek (which flows -beyond the hill) were it not that they are diverted to irrigate the -ranch lands. Near this place of disappearance, is a very interesting -feature of the Well—a series of natural caverns reaching far back under -the hill, forming an irregular dwelling of many rooms, with occasional -bits of built-in wall of mud-plastered stone. Upon such a wall at the -very entrance of the cavern is the tiny imprint of a child’s hand, left -we must suppose, by some prehistoric toddler steadying itself—how many, -many centuries ago, who can tell?—against the freshly plastered surface, -just as a baby, uncertain of its feet, would do to-day. At the time Mr. -Chas. F. Lummis wrote his fascinating volume, “Some Strange Corners of -our Country,” and described Montezuma’s Castle and Well, the precious -imprint was perfect; but some witless latter-day visitor has pecked out -the palm with his vandal jack-knife, destroying in a moment what Time, -the arch-destroyer, had respected for centuries. Still the marks of the -baby fingers were left when I visited the place a year ago and I hope -still are, to link the fancy tenderly with that ancient people, our -elder brethren. - -The proprietor of the Well, Mr. W. B. Back, will guide you about and -light you into the cavern’s recesses, piloting you with a lantern -through passages so low and narrow at times that you must go almost on -hands and knees until he brings you, far within, into a spacious and -utterly dark rock-chamber with a stream of living water coursing -musically through it, where further investigation is barred. He will -also transport you in an anachronous row-boat across the bosom of the -Well. It seems the soundings deepen suddenly from 80 feet at the outer -part to 500 feet and no bottom at the center. There the water rises as -in a funnel from its unknown source. At the outlet beyond the hill the -waters gush from beneath a high, darkling cliff in an impetuous stream -that varies little in volume throughout the year, the measurement being -about 112 miner’s inches. Your guide takes you there, too (passing on -the way the ruins of an ancient pueblo that once occupied the mesa near -the Well’s edge), and you will enjoy the sight of that brisk little -torrent fringed with a riot of maiden-hair fern and columbine, and -darkened by the shadows from huge sycamores that foregather about it. -The ancient Well-dweller, knew perfectly the value of that water and led -it by ditches, the remains of which you may yet see, to irrigate their -corn- and bean-fields a mile away. Apaches, who within recent years have -been the only Indians dwelling in the region, profess no knowledge of -the people who built the houses here. Mr. Back (who, by the way, in 1889 -filed as a homesteader on the land about the Well including the Well -itself as a water right) informed me that the Apaches regard the place -with disfavor. “_Aqua no ’ueno_,” one old man told him, “water no good. -Long time ago, you _sabe_, three Indian _mujeres_ all same women, you -_sabe_, she swim out in water, and go round and round, you _sabe_, in -the middle, and by ’em by, she go down, all three. Never come back. No, -no—_no ’ueno_.” The water is warmish, but quite drinkable—if you can -forget about those Apache ladies who are still in it. - -It would seem reasonable that so remarkable a natural phenomenon as is -the Well, situated in a region as populous with aborigines as the Verde -Valley once was, would have a place in Indian folk lore; and as a matter -of fact Dr. J. W. Fewkes[85] has learned that the Hopis know of its -existence, and claim it as the home of some of their ancestors. -Moreover, the tales of some of their old men indicate that they regard -the place as the house of the Plumed Serpent, a divinity peculiarly dear -to the desert dwelling Hopis of today, as the guardian of the waters and -springs. Indeed, it is, perhaps, as a shrine of the divine that the Well -is most truly to be considered; and in view of the extensive pueblo that -once flourished on the rim, it may be that the houses of the Well walls -were used in connection with religious observances rather than as a -habitation of the common people. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - SAN ANTONIO - - -If you are a Southwesterner, born or naturalized, returning from a visit -“back East,” your spirits rise with a jump when the trainmen call out -“San Antone!” For this is the frontier of your own dear country, and you -feel the thrill that goes with getting home again and being among your -own people. Dusty and a bit down at the heel in spots is San Antonio, -you think? Yes, son, but it is picturesque; and there are adobes and -Mexicans, Stetson hats and cart-wheel dollars once more, and it is where -the Southwest begins, if you are westbound on the S. P. - -San Antonio more than anywhere else in Texas has an Old World -atmosphere. The former Spanish capital of the province, there are parts -of it that impart to the visitor much the same feeling that Monterey, -that other Spanish capital, gives him in California—the feeling that -_may be_ this is the United States, but it needs to be demonstrated. Of -course, being a city of 100,000 people and commercially important, it -has its well-groomed, American side, but unless you are in San Antonio -merely in quest of health and comfort,[86] it is not that spick-and-span -side that appeals to your traveler’s taste. You will prefer those -streets, irregular and even unpaved (often their Spanish names still -clinging to them), of the older quarters, where cracked one-storied -adobes in open sunshine, elbow stately old tree-embowered mansions, -whose tangled gardens seem to hide in their unkempt corners untold -romances. You will like the Mexican quarter with its queer little shops, -and the market square with its picturesque crowds of swarthy _peones_, -donkeys and country teams of odd sorts, its squatting street venders of -_tortillas_, cakes, _dulces_, songbooks, religious pictures and -shoe-strings. You will like, too, the bridges over the little river that -winds cosily about through the midst of the town, and the waterside -lawns where trees cast a comfortable shade and summer houses invite to -tea _al fresco_. There are literally dozens of those bridges, with -railings at a convenient height to lean your elbows on and dream away an -idle half-hour. Moreover, you will like the many charming parks and -plazas, where you may sit under a palm tree and enjoy the passing tide -of open-air life and make more acquaintances in half an hour than you -would in New York in a year. - -The Main Plaza is dominated by the cathedral of San Fernando, which -dates from 1738, though little of the original structure remains—most of -the present building having been constructed about half a century ago. -What is left of the original church is in the rear, backing on another -and larger square, the old _Plaza de Armas_, or Military Plaza as it is -now called. - -Modern San Antonio has risen out of the consolidation of the presidio of -San Antonio de Béjar, the Mission of Antonio de Valero (both mission and -presidio founded in 1718) and the _villa_—a form of Spanish -municipality—of San Fernando, founded in 1730. The Mission, after -abandonment as a religious institution, was turned into a fortress and -barracks, and acquired the name of Alamo.[87] The Church of the Mission -and what is left of the main building of the Fort are the most famous -historical buildings in the city. They face on the Alamo Plaza, and are -of such unique interest as to draw, in themselves, many visitors to San -Antonio; for they are in a sense to Texas what Faneuil Hall is to New -England, the cradle of its liberty. Late in 1835, when Texas was still a -part of Mexico, San Antonio was stormed and captured by a band of -insurgent American-Texans under the leadership of “Old Ben” Milam, who -was killed in the fight. (You will see his statue in Milam Square, if -you are interested enough to look it up). The Alamo, which was well -outside the San Antonio of those days, was surrendered with the city. -Here the Texans later entrenched themselves, and in February and March -of the following year were besieged for 12 days by 4000 Mexicans under -General Santa Ana. Of the Texans, there were less than 200, including -some women and children. Refusing to surrender, every man of them was -killed in the final assault upon the place, the only survivors -(according to H. H. Bancroft) being 3 women, 2 children and one negro -boy servant. “Remember the Alamo” became the war-cry of the Texans in -the subsequent struggle that ended in the independence of the province. - -The little Alamo Church and part of the main building that we see -to-day, form only a small portion of the establishment that existed in -1836 and was occupied by the Texan defenders. Besides this church part -(now maintained as a public monument) there was the large two-story -_convento_-fortress divided into rooms and used as armory and barracks, -part of which now exists and is cared for by the State of Texas; also a -prison building and courtyard; the whole covering between 2 and 3 acres. -Prominent among the Alamo defenders was that picturesque character and -popular Southwestern hero, Davy Crockett. Another was James Bowie, to -whom many authorities attribute the invention of the famous knife that -bears the Bowie name, but Bancroft says it was Rezin Bowie, a brother of -James, who originated it. These and others of the participants in the -Texan war of independence are commemorated in the names of streets, -parks and public houses throughout the city. As for the Alamo, it is -bait in all sorts of business ventures—giving name to saloons, -suspenders, grocery stores, restaurants, lodging houses and what not. - -Next to the Alamo, the sightseer (unless an enthusiasm for matters -military takes him straight to San Antonio’s famous army post, Sam -Houston), will find worth while a visit to the old Franciscan Missions, -now in ruins, that are strung along the San Antonio River to the south -of the city. There are four of these, the first about 2 miles from the -Alamo, the rest at similar intervals of a couple of miles. Americans -have got in the way of calling them, in numerical fashion, First, -Second, Third and Fourth Missions, respectively, to the neglect of their -fine old Spanish names. The First, which is on the southern outskirts of -the city, and may be reached by a moderate walk from a street car line, -is the Mission _Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepcion de Acuña_ (Our -Lady of the Immaculate Conception, of Acuña). From quite a distance one -catches sight of its twin square towers with pyramidal tops and its high -dome peeping above a tangle of mesquite, chinnaberry and pecan trees, -and sprawling juisache bushes. A Mexican family lives in an end of the -ruined _convento_ part, and a small fee is charged for showing the -inside of the church and permitting you to climb the belfry for a fine -view over the country. The façade is interesting with much curious -sculpturing. The knotted cord of St. Francis winds above the austere -polygonal “arch” of the doorway, upon which is this Spanish inscription: -_A su patrono y princessa con estas armas atiende esta mission y -defiende el_ _punto de su pureza_. (With these arms this Mission attends -her Patroness and Princess and defends the state of her immaculateness.) -This is an obvious allusion to the controversy long maintained among -old-time theologians concerning the dogma of the Virgin Mary’s -immaculate conception—a doctrine defended and preached by the -Franciscans from the first. In the corners immediately above the arch -are two medallions, the one bearing an unusual form of the Franciscan -Order’s coat-of-arms—the Saviour’s naked arm and the sleeved arm of St. -Francis nailed together to the Cross; the other carved in the semblance -of five blood-drops, to symbolize perhaps the stigmata of St. Francis. -Upon the keystone is another elaborate embellishment now much worn by -the elements. The central figure of this is plainly representative of -the consecrated elements in the Lord’s Supper—a slender Spanish chalice -surmounted by the Sacred Host. Worn figures at the sides of the chalice -may have represented clouds or adoring angels. The whole carving of the -keystone obviously typifies the Church’s missionary purpose. The front -was once gaily frescoed in red, yellow, blue and orange; but Time’s -remorseless hand has fallen heavily on that. Begun in 1731, the building -was not completed until 1752. After Mexican independence from Spain was -accomplished, this Mission as well as the others, was abandoned and was -not infrequently used by both Mexican and United States troops for -barracks and stables. Some 30 years ago Bishop Neraz of San Antonio had -La Purísima Concepcion cleared of rubbish and re-dedicated to Our Lady -of Lourdes.[88] - -[Illustration] - - SAN JOSÉ DE AGUAYO - - The sculptured window of this old Franciscan Mission near San - Antonio, Texas, is widely famed for its refined beauty. - -[Illustration] - - SAN XAVIER DEL BAC, ARIZONA. - - Though largely restored, this survival of early 17th-century - missionary effort, is one of the most interesting antiquities of its - class in the United States. - -The Second Mission, properly called San José de Aguayo, was the first -founded of the four, dating from 1720. It was 11 years a-building, and -the date of its completion, March 5, 1731, seems to have determined the -beginning of the remaining three Missions in the chain, all of which -were founded on their present sites in that same year.[89] It was in its -day the most flourishing of the Texas Missions, as, in its ruins, it is -the most beautiful. The builder indulged to the uttermost his love of -florid carving, and the broken façade of the roofless church is a marvel -of ornate sculpturing—of saints, life size or in bust, cherubs’ heads -and flaming hearts, volutes and arabesques and conchoids innumerable. -But it is good sculpture and an amazing thing that it should have been -wrought to the glory of God in that wilderness of what was Northern -Mexico, near two centuries ago. Doubtless it was the work of some -artisan (I have read that his name was Juan Huisar) brought up from Old -Mexico where such ecclesiastical art was encouraged from the beginning -of the Spanish occupation; and for assistants Indians were employed. -Around the corner from this front is a window in the baptistry that -makes you exclaim for the beauty of it, so exquisite is it in its -sculptured setting, so delicate and of so simple loveliness is its -_reja_, or grating of wrought iron. And about it in the broken chinks of -crumbling masonry is a fern garden of Nature’s own sowing, of a sort -that thrives in the sunshine and aridity of the Southwest and nowhere -else, a species that botanists call _Notholaena sinuata_. The Mission is -quite abandoned now save for an occasional service at a modest little -altar in one room. A neighboring Mexican family has the key and supplies -a guide. - -These two Missions are usually all the hurrying tourist sees; but an -hour more, if you are in an automobile, is enough to afford a glance at -the other two, which, if less interesting, are still a pleasant -adventure. The Third (6 miles from San Antonio) is Mission _San Juan -Capistrano_ (Saint John of Capistrano, in Italy), and the Fourth is _San -Francisco de la Espada_ (Saint Francis of the Sword). The last has -undergone some restoration to fit it for the resident priest, who -ministers to a Mexican flock quartered roundabout. The entire round of -the Missions can be easily done by motor car in half a day; but take a -day to it, if you can spare the time, picnic somewhere by the river, and -do the beautiful old places with leisure and reverence. Surely one can -do worse things, to quote Sidney Lanier, “than to steal out here from -town ... and dream back the century and a half of strange, lonesome, -devout, hymn-haunted and Indian-haunted years that have trailed past -these walls.” - -Annually during the last week of April, there is held in San Antonio an -open air carnival called the Fiesta San Jacinto. The name commemorates -the decisive battle of San Jacinto, fought April 21, 1836, between -Mexicans and Texans, and ending the War of Texan Independence. Elaborate -celebrations mark the festival, which is almost as well known in the -Southwest as the New Orleans Mardi Gras. - - NOTE: Readers interested in particulars of the history of the San - Antonio Missions will be repaid by consulting the valuable work of - Miss Adina DeZavala, entitled: “History and Legends of The Alamo and - Other Missions in and Around San Antonio.” - - - - - CHAPTER XV - IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GIANT CACTUS - - -There are two Arizonas. There is that wide, breezy plateau region of the -north, a mile and more above sea level, where our travels so far have -been; and there is the much lower desert region of the south slanting -downward from the Gila River to Sonoran Mexico, from which country there -is little to distinguish it physically. This desert region, known to the -Spaniards as Pimería Alta (that is, the upper country of the Pima -Indians), was the only portion of what was afterwards called Arizona to -possess a white population until several years after our Mexican War. -The tourist to-day penetrates it in two general ways. Near the Mexican -frontier the Southern Pacific transcontinental line traverses it, -passing through Yuma and Tucson and reaching up to Phoenix by a branch -from Maricopa. From the north a branch of the Santa Fe system runs -southward from Ash Fork through Prescott directly to Phoenix. - -Phoenix is the State capital, a very modern little city dating from -1817, with a population of perhaps 20,000. There is a touch of poetry in -the name, which was given to symbolize the rising of a new civilization -from the ashes of that prehistoric culture the evidences of whose -existence cover so much of Southern Arizona. Here, where 50 years ago -was pure desert lorded over by the giant Sahuaro—that huge tree-cactus -which is Arizona’s State emblem—we find today surrounding Phoenix a -pleasant land of ranches watered by full irrigation canals flowing in -the shade of palms and cottonwoods, where besides the common staples of -potatoes, corn and alfalfa, there is the exotic grace of the orange and -the fig, the olive, the date and the apricot. This is the valley of the -Salt River, whose waters are impounded by the huge Roosevelt Dam, some -80 miles east of Phoenix. Travelers desirous of studying desert -reclamation will find Phoenix a good center for their observations. - -If you value your personal comfort, the time to visit Phoenix is between -November and May. During the rest of the year the weather normally is -remorselessly hot to the unacclimated. My own acquaintance with the city -began in August. In a hazy way I had noticed something unaccustomed -about the look of the population, the men particularly, but failed to -analyze it until a sociable street car conductor remarked to me, -“Stranger here?” “Yes,” said I, “my first day.” “We always know -strangers right away,” he continued. “You see, they wear their coats.” -Then I took a fresh look around and though it was a fairly crowded -street, I failed to see a man who was not in his shirt sleeves. The -winter and early spring, however, are delicious with the peculiar purity -and dryness of the desert air to which a touch of frost at night may -give added vitality. - -That interesting 120 mile automobile highway called the Apache Trail -finds at Phoenix its western terminus. Its eastern end is at Globe, a -mining town on modern lines in the center of a rich copper district.[90] -This point is connected by rail with Bowie, 124 miles distant, on the -Southern Pacific Railway. Transcontinental travelers by this route, -either east- or west-bound, are now given the opportunity of varying -their trip by taking this motor drive over the Apache Trail, linking up -with the train again at the point of ending. The feature of the motor -trip, which consumed 9 to 12 hours, is the chance it yields the traveler -to get a more intimate acquaintance with the Arizona countryside than is -possible from a car window. Mines and cattle ranges, stupendous cañons, -strange rock-sculpturings in glowing colors, the desert with its -entrancing vistas, its grotesque and often beautiful plant-life, even a -glimpse of prehistoric ruins—all this the drive affords; and to it is -added the impressive sight of the Roosevelt Dam with its beautiful, -winding driveway upon the breast and its exhibition of man-made -waterfalls and 30-mile lake, an unoffended Nature looking indulgently -down from surrounding precipices and mountain crests and seeming to say, -“Son, not so bad.” There is a hotel at the Dam, on a promontory -overlooking the water—and in the water bass and “salmon” are said to be. -A stop-over here is necessary if you wish to visit the Cliff Dwellings, -5 miles to the eastward, officially known as the Tonto National -Monument. - -The Apache Trail detour cuts the traveler out of stopping off at one of -the most interesting little cities of the Southwest—Tucson.[91] It may -be that not all will find this oasis town, lapped in the desert and girt -about with low mountains, as much to their liking as I do, but I believe -it possesses features worth going back on one’s tracks to see; for it -has a decided character of its own. With an out-and-out modern American -side, there is the grace of an historic past, whose outward and visible -sign is a picturesque Spanish quarter in adobe, pink, blue and glaring -white, clustering about a sleepy old plaza and trailing off through a -fringe of Indian _ranchería_ to the blazing desert. The region -roundabout is associated with pretty much all the history that Arizona -had until it became part of the United States. The Santa Cruz Valley, in -which Tucson lies, was a highway of travel during three centuries -between Old Mexico and the Spanish settlements and Missions of Pimería -Alta. Through this valley or the neighboring one of San Pedro (there is -a difference of opinion on this point), Brother Marcos de Niza, the -first white man to put foot in Arizona, must have passed in 1539 on his -way to Zuñi’s Seven Cities; and this way, the following year, came -Coronado upon the expedition that made of New Mexico a province of -Spain. A century later the region was the scene of the spiritual labors -of Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino, a devoted Jesuit missionary to the -Indians—a man of mark in his time, to whom is credited the founding of -the Spanish Mission San Francisco Xavier del Bac, about 9 miles south of -Tucson. The present beautiful structure, however (Tucson’s crack sight -for tourists), was not erected until long after Padre Kino’s day. - -San Xavier is, in itself, worth a stop-over at Tucson. You may make the -round trip from the railway station in a couple of hours by automobile, -getting en route a taste of genuine desert scenery, with its scattered -covering of creosote bush, mesquite, cat’s claw, ocotillo and sahuaro. -The Mission building is one of the most beautiful examples of Spanish -ecclesiastical architecture in our country; and the pure white -structure, lonely in the desert, its glistening walls and stately towers -and dome silhouetted against a sapphire sky, makes a striking sight, -oriental in its suggestion. The church part is still used for religious -services, and other portions form the residence of Sisters of a Catholic -order who conduct a school for the children of the Papago Indians. The -primitive habitations of the latter, scattered about within easy access -of the Mission, are the Mission’s only near neighbors. A small fee -admits one to the church. A feature of interest at the front is the -coat-of-arms in relief of the Order of Saint Francis of Assisi.[92] This -is evidence enough that the present structure, which was begun in 1783 -and finished in 1797, was erected by Franciscans, although, as already -stated, the Mission itself was founded about a century previously by -Jesuits. In 1768 and for ten succeeding years, the resident missionary -at San Xavier was Padre Francisco Garcés, one of the most remarkable -characters in the Southwest’s history. An enthusiastic young priest in -his early thirties when he came to San Xavier, and possessed of a -powerful physique, he journeyed on foot up and down the valleys of the -Gila and the Colorado (even penetrating into California and to the Hopi -village of Oraibi), tirelessly searching out Indians, and preaching to -them Christ and the gospel of reconciliation. He was indeed the original -Christian Pacifist of the Southwest, urging upon the Indian tribes -everywhere that they should settle their differences peaceably and live -together as brothers. To prove his faith he would never suffer a -military escort to accompany him in his wilderness pioneering, but took -only an Indian companion or two as interpreter, and a mule to carry his -ecclesiastical impedimenta. Neither would he bear any weapon for -defense, but went “equipped only with charity and apostolic zeal.”[93] -His kindly, joyous character, so endeared him to the aborigines, that, -as he himself records, a village would often refuse to supply him a -guide to the next tribe, wanting to keep him for themselves. Under such -circumstances, he would set out alone. He was a rare puzzle to those -barbarians, both because they found it difficult to decide whether in -his long gown and clean-shaven face he was man or woman, and because he -strangely wanted nothing of them but the chance to give them a free -passport to Heaven—an inexplicable sort of white man, indeed! - -While on your Mission pilgrimage, it will be worth while to continue -southward some 50 miles more to Mission San José de Tumacácori. The road -is fairly good and about 7 hours will suffice for the round from Tucson -by automobile; or the train may be taken on the Nogales branch of the -Southern Pacific to Tubac station, whence a walk southward a couple of -miles brings you to the Mission.[94] The buildings, mostly of adobe, are -in ruins and very picturesque with a domed sanctuary and a huge square -belfry, now broken and dismantled. They and a few acres surrounding them -now form the Tumacácori National Monument, under the care of the United -States Government. This Mission in the wilderness was once, next to San -Xavier, the most important in what is now Arizona. It was established by -Jesuits in 1754, though the present church building is of Franciscan -structure of much later date, having been completed in 1822, replacing -one destroyed by the ceaselessly raiding Apaches.[95] Of interest, too, -in this vicinity, is the ancient village of Tubac, 2 miles north of -Tumacácori. Here in the 18th century was a Spanish presidio thought -needful for supplementing the preaching of the friars by the argument of -the sword. To Californians and those interested in the history of the -Golden State, the place has an appeal because here during several years -Don Juan Bautista Anza was commandant—the sturdy soldier who conceived -the idea of a practicable overland route from Mexico across the deserts -to the Spanish settlements on the California coast, and in 1775-6 -convoyed over this route the colonists who founded San Francisco. Today -Tubac is an unpretentious little adobe hamlet sprawling about a -gravelly, sunny knoll, and looking across the Santa Cruz River with its -fringe of billowy cottonwoods to the blue line of the Santa Rita and San -Gaetano ranges. At Rosy’s Café I got a modest but comforting luncheon, -and on your way to Tumacácori you, too, might do worse. - -West of Tucson 65 miles is the little town of Casa Grande, which takes -its name from one of the most famous prehistoric ruins in the United -States, standing about 18 miles to the northeast, near the Gila River. -If you have a taste for prehistoric architecture, you will enjoy Casa -Grande, for it is _sui generis_ among our country’s antiquities. If, on -the other hand, you are just an ordinary tourist, you must decide for -yourself whether a half day’s motor trip across the desert to see a -ruinous, cubical mud house topped with a corrugated iron roof, in the -midst of a sunburnt wilderness, will or will not be worth your while. -What touches the fancy is that here, centuries doubtless before Columbus -(perhaps before the time of the Cliff Dwellers) dwelt and toiled an -unknown people whose remains are of a type that possesses important -points of difference from those found elsewhere within the limits of the -United States, though similar ruins exist in Mexico. Casa Grande is -Spanish for Great House, and is given to this ruin because its -outstanding feature is a huge block of a building of three or four -stories in height, and thick walls of _caliche_—a mixture of mud, lime -and pebbles molded into form and dried, somewhat as modern concrete -walls are built up. The unique character of the Casa Grande caused it to -be set aside 25 years ago as a National Monument, and important work has -since been done there by Government ethnologists, in the way of -strengthening and repairing the crumbling walls and cleaning up the -rooms. Extensive excavations have also been made close by, resulting in -uncovering the foundations of a numerous aggregation of houses plazas, -enclosing walls, etc. These reveal the fact that in some age the place -was a walled city of importance, even if it was of mud—a sort of -American Lutetia, to which Fate denied the glory of becoming a Paris. -The huge building in the center—the Casa Grande—probably served partly -as a religious temple, but principally as a citadel where in time of -attack by enemies the people took refuge. Access to the upper stories -was doubtless by ladders outside, as in modern pueblos. Indeed, this is -but one of several walled-in compounds of buildings that formerly -existed in the Gila Valley, and are now but shapeless heaps of earth. -Some of these close to the main Casa Grande ruin have been excavated and -their plan laid bare. The remains of an extensive irrigation system are -still in evidence, water having been drawn from the Gila. - -The first white man of unimpeachable record to see Casa Grande was that -Padre Eusebio Kino, of whom we heard at San Xavier and who gave the ruin -its Spanish name. He learned of it from his Indians, and in 1694 visited -the place, saying mass in one of its rooms. There is some reason to -identify the spot with Chichiticale, or Red House, a ruin noted in the -reports of Fray Marcos de Niza and of Coronado, both of whom probably -passed not far from Casa Grande on their way to Zuñi, but most scholars -now reject this theory of identity. After Kino the ruin was frequently -examined by explorers and written about up to the American occupation. -Anza and his San Francisco colonists camped a few miles distant, and the -commandant with his two friars, Padres Garcés and Font, inspected the -place with great interest on October 31, 1775. Font in his diary gives a -circumstantial account of it, calling it _La Casa de Moctezuma_ -(Montezuma’s House), and narrates a tradition of the neighboring Pima -Indians as to its origin. It seems[96] that long ago, nobody knows how -long, there came to that neighborhood an old man of so harsh and crabbed -a disposition that he was called Bitter Man (_el Hombre ’Amargo_, in -Padre Font’s version). With him were his daughter and son-in-law, and -for servants he had the Storm Cloud and the Wind. Until then the land -had been barren, but Bitter Man had with him seeds which he sowed, and -with the help of the two servants abundant crops grew year after year, -and were harvested. It was these people who built the Great House, and -they dwelt there, though not without quarrels because of Bitter Man’s -character, so that even Storm Cloud and Wind left him at times, but they -came back. After many years, however, all went away—whither, who -knows—and were heard of no more forever. - -Casa Grande may also be reached by conveyance from Florence on the -Arizona Eastern Railway, from which point it is distant a dozen miles or -so. Owing to the extreme summer heat of this desert country, the trip to -the ruin is most comfortably made in the late autumn, winter or early -spring. There is a resident care-taker who acts as guide. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA - - -“Shall they say of you, you have been to Rome and not seen the Pope?” -Yet that is what will be said if you turn back at the Colorado River and -leave Southern California out of your Southwestern travels. However, few -people do that. The fear is that in their haste to reach that tourist -playground, they may neglect too much of what the preceding chapters -have dwelt upon. Intent upon seeing the Pope, they may do scant justice -to Rome. - -By Southern California is meant California south of the Teháchapi -Mountains and their western prolongation ending in Santa Barbara County -at the sea. It is not a political division, but Nature’s—in its physical -aspect differing quite markedly from Central and Northern California. -Long regarded with a sort of mild contempt by the Americans who settled -Central California and who habitually spoke of the South as “the cow -counties,” Southern California has in the last quarter century attained -a reputation not short of gilt-edged. Lonely, treeless plains and -valleys and brush-clad mesas that a comparatively few years ago were -counted desert and good for nothing except for cattle ranges and sheep -runs, have become, with the development of water, pleasant lands of -fruitfulness supporting a numerous and progressive population. The -extensive cultivation of the orange, the lemon, the fig, the grape, the -English walnut, the apricot, the olive; the planting of the eucalyptus, -the palm and a hundred kinds of exotic shade and ornamental trees; the -dotting of the landscape with villas of a distinguished sort of -architecture patterned on Italian and Spanish models—all this has -wrought a transformation that makes even more appropriate today than 25 -years ago the sobriquet of “Our Italy” given the region by Charles -Dudley Warner. - -Here wealthy Easterners maintain winter homes as they keep summer -estates on the Atlantic Coast, and less well-to-do folk—retired farmers, -tradesmen or professional people—buy a bungalow and settle down to the -enjoyment of a good climate and the luxury of having roses and green -peas in their winter gardens. Not only Americans but those of other -nationalities have discovered that Southern California totals a -remarkable number of points in the problem of comfortable living—a -healthful and delightful climate (notably in winter), a fruitful soil -capable of raising everything natural to the temperate zone besides a -large number of things sub-tropical, a beautiful and varied terrain -embracing seaside, valley and mountain, and an admirable system of -capital roads. For the tourist there is not only the attraction of this -beauty and comfort, but there is the drawing of historic interest, -touched with that indefinable sense of romance that attaches wherever -Spain has had a foothold. In Southern California as elsewhere in the -Southwest, that Spanish flavor is very evident, manifested in the -presence of a considerable Spanish-speaking population, in the remains -of Spanish-built Missions and ranch houses, and in the persistence of -Spanish geographic nomenclature. - -The hub of Southern California is Los Angeles, which in a generation has -expanded from a sleepy little half-Spanish pueblo of a few thousand to a -metropolis of half a million, with a taste for the latest in everything -and the money to indulge it. It is the natural center from which to do -one’s sightseeing, though Pasadena, adjoining it on the north, is almost -as convenient and, indeed, preferred by many who are not in a hurry and -prefer surroundings more rural. Pasadena is a little city of 40,000, -beautifully situated on a shelving mesa at the base of the Sierra Madre -and overlooking the fertile San Gabriel Valley. It is nationally famous -for its numerous fine estates and the winter residences of wealthy -Easterners; but outside of that it possesses mile upon mile of -tree-lined streets where modest homes of the bungalow type look out from -a setting of vine and shrub and flower. Each New Year’s Day the city -becomes the objective of tens of thousands of visitors to view the -Tournament of Roses, an outdoor fiesta whose distinctive feature is a -street floral pageant. - -From Los Angeles lines of transportation radiate to all points of -interest. You have your pick of steam railways, electric lines, -auto-stages and ocean steamers. Hundreds of miles of first class, -hard-surfaced roads make Southern California a motorist’s paradise, and -automobiling is here so notable a feature of tourist life that, if -possible, the traveler should make provision for it when packing his -pocket book. Public automobiles are abundant and the prices reasonable -enough, from $1.50 per hour upward, with special rates for trips. If you -are able to club with others for a car, you may find this the cheapest -form of travel. Maps and specific information as to drives may be had at -offices of the Automobile Club of Southern California.[97] - -For those who do not care for motoring or find it too expensive, most of -the desirable points are reached by electric and steam lines, or by -auto-stages. There are several daily excursions scheduled by the Pacific -Electric Railway, which afford at a minimum of expense a satisfactory -means of getting a comprehensive idea of Southern California. One of -these, to Mount Lowe (a prominent peak of the Sierra Madre), may be -substituted for the automobile drive up Mount Wilson. The visit to San -Juan Capistrano Mission may be made by train, the railway station being -close by. There is a resident priest and religious services are -regularly held in one of the restored rooms. The Mission was founded in -1775, and the church part—now a ruin, the result of an earthquake in -1812—marked in its prime the high-tide of Mission architecture in -California. - -The Franciscan Mission establishments in California are among the most -interesting historical monuments of our country; and those of the -southern end of the State remain to-day especially noteworthy. Ten miles -from Los Angeles is Mission San Gabriel (founded in 1771 on the bank of -the Rio Hondo a few miles east of the present site, to which it was -removed in 1775). It was for many years a principal center of -civilization in the province, the settlement antedating the founding of -Los Angeles by several years. Of the original establishment little -remains but the church part, which is in a state of good preservation -and serves as a place of worship for a considerable congregation, -largely of Spanish descent. Mission San Fernando (about 25 miles west of -the heart of Los Angeles) is deserted, save by a caretaker. The fine -corridored _convento_, flush with the highway, is its most conspicuous -feature today, but the Mission was once of notable extent. A cloistered -walk formerly connected the _convento_ with the ruined church in the -rear. If you stroll on past the church to the ancient olive orchard -beyond and look back, having the two date palms there in your -foreground, you will get a charming picture of the noble old temple -where Padre “Napoleon” strove, during a third of the Mission’s -existence, to steer his dusky children heavenward. Apropos of these -California Missions (whose plan was quite different from those of New -Mexico and Arizona) it should be borne in mind that originally each -consisted of a huge hollow square of buildings, facing within on an open -courtyard. The church occupied part or all of one side, the other sides -consisting of living rooms for the one or two padres (the _convento_ -part), kitchens, store rooms, shops where the neophytes were taught and -labored, and the _monjerio_ or sleeping apartment of the Indian widows -and unmarried girls of the Mission. Outside this compound were the huts -of the Indian converts, arranged in streets and forming an orderly -village of sometimes a couple of thousand souls.[98] - -South of Los Angeles, 125 miles, is San Diego, reached either by rail, -steamer, or automobile. If the last way is chosen, going and returning -may be done over different highways, one following the coast, the other -running further inland via Riverside. Both roads are excellent. Forty -miles before reaching San Diego, you pass within calling distance of -Mission San Luis Rey (St. Louis, the King)—4 miles east of Oceanside, a -railroad stop where conveyance may be had for the Mission. San Luis Rey -was founded in 1798 and in its proportions rivaled San Juan Capistrano. -It is still an imposing establishment, though restored with rather too -heavy a hand to suit the artistic sense. The situation is charming, on a -knoll in the midst of a noble valley, emerald green in winter and -spring, the San Luis Rey River flowing close by the Mission. A community -of hospitable Franciscan brothers occupies the premises, and religious -services are regularly held in the church. Twenty miles further up the -river (eastward), a pleasant drive, is San Luis Rey’s sub-mission or -_asistencia_, San Antonio de Pala, which no lover of the picturesque -should miss visiting. White-walled and red-tiled, the quaint little -church with a remarkable, white bell-tower set not on it but beside it, -is one’s beau ideal of an old mission. The setting, too, is satisfying. -On every hand are the mountains; a stone’s throw away ripples the little -river; and clustered close by is a picturesque village of about 300 -Indians, to whom a resident priest, with rooms in the Mission, is -_cura_. Both Mission San Luis Rey and this outpost of Pala were -constructed by Indians under the supervision of the famous Padre Peyri, -one of the most forceful and devoted of the early Franciscans in -California. He gave the best of his life to his wilderness flock, and -years after his departure, the Indians, in reverence of his memory, -would still offer up their prayers before his picture as before a -saint’s. - -San Diego, a city claiming a population of 100,000, is spread over -seaward-looking hills affording a delightful view of the land-locked Bay -of San Diego and the Pacific Ocean going down to China. The mountains of -Old Mexico, too, only 20 miles away, make a feature in the prospect. If -you are in any doubt what to do in San Diego, you need only stroll -around to the neighborhood of the Plaza, and you will be shown. Street -cars, automobiles, “rubberneck” busses and tourist agency windows are -hung with notices of places to see and trips to take, and the streets -are sprinkled with uniformed officials emblazoned with gold lace, to -give you details. You may have a good time on any of these jaunts, if -you are good-natured and like a bit of roughing it (for San Diego’s -vicinity has not as yet reached Los Angeles County’s excellence in -roads); but to give you a start I would itemize the following as not to -be overlooked: - -The exquisite gardens at Balboa Park (where the Panama-California -Exposition of 1915-16 was held), affording in epitome a charming object -lesson in what California gardens offer both in exotic and native -plants; the drive to and along the headland of Point Loma for the fine -views; by ferry across the bay to Coronado’s famous hotel and beach; the -ride by railway or automobile to La Jolla (pronounced _lah ho´ yah_), a -pleasant little seaside resort with interesting cliffs and surf-drenched -rocks; by street car to Old Town (where San Diego had its beginning), to -visit the Estudillo house—a former Spanish home intelligently restored -and interesting as a bit of old-time architecture with its tiled inner -corridors about a flowery patio. It is locally known as “Ramona’s -Marriage Place,” because it was here, according to the novel, that the -priest lived who married Ramona and Alessandro. On the hill back of Old -Town once stood Padre Junípero Serra’s first Mission in California, -founded in 1769; but it is all gone now, the site being marked by a -large cross made of the original red tiles that once littered the -ground. It is but a short walk worth taking both for the view and for -the sentiment of standing on the spot where white civilization in -California had its beginning. Five miles up the valley that stretches -eastward at your feet is what is left of the second Mission (established -in 1774). This historic building has been sadly neglected and is but a -ruined shell, which only reverence for its past makes interesting. -Across the road from it is the old olive orchard, believed to be the -original planting of the olive in the State. - -San Diego’s back country offers many interesting trips by auto-stage or -private car, the roads being as a rule good but with the ups and downs -of a hilly region. There are several good hotels in the mountains at a -distance of 60 miles or so from San Diego, so that the night may be -spent here if desired. Pine Hills, Mesa Grande, and Warner’s Hot Springs -may be mentioned as desirable objectives. The trip by auto-stage or your -own car via Campo to El Centro or Calexico (at the Mexican border) in -the Imperial Valley will prove an unforgettable experience. The Imperial -Valley is a depression below sea-level in the Colorado Desert of -California, which after lying desolate for ages has of late been made -exceedingly productive by diverting irrigation water to it from the -Colorado River. This trip had best be made between November and May, as -the desert heat in summer and early autumn is intense. If you have your -own car and desire the experience of more desert, return may be made -around the Salton Sea through the Coachella Valley (where dates are now -extensively grown), to Palm Springs and Riverside. - -While we have rambled along the coast between Los Angeles and San Diego, -our eyes will often have been caught by the sight of a long, low island -well out to sea. It is Santa Catalina, whose reputation as a -sea-angler’s paradise is world wide. It has also a most delightful -climate—its and San Diego’s being perhaps the most equable of any on the -Coast. The marine gardens that line the shores are also of wide fame, -and are made visible by boats with glass bottoms, through which one -looks down into the transparent waters of another world where waving -kelps and sea mosses are the forests and bright colored fish, sea -anemones, jelly fish, sea cucumbers and other queer creatures are the -inhabitants. The trip thither and return may be accomplished from Los -Angeles, between breakfast and evening dinner, if you do not care to -stay longer. - -A hundred miles northwest of Los Angeles lies Santa Barbara (a little -city of 15,000), rich in beautiful homes and flowery gardens. It is -delightfully situated with the ocean at its feet and the Santa Inés -Mountains at its back, and may be reached from Los Angeles either by -train or by a picturesque motor drive through valleys, over mountains -and beside the sea. Here is the best preserved of all the existing -Franciscan Missions in California—never abandoned since its founding in -1786, though now for many a year there have been no Indians in its care. -It is the residence of a Franciscan community, and the members in their -long brown gowns and white cord girdles may be seen any day at their -various tasks about the grounds—one of which is the piloting of visitors -through the church. - -Driving, horseback-riding, playing golf, or simply sitting still and -enjoying being alive in the midst of fine scenery, are the principal -occupations of Santa Barbara’s visitors. Among the longer drives should -be mentioned the 40 miles to the Ojai Valley by way of the lovely -Casitas Passes, and the 45 miles across the Santa Inés Mountains to the -Mission Santa Inés in the valley of the same name. The latter trip is -made more enjoyable if two days are taken to it, the mountains being -crossed by the San Marcos Pass[99] into the Valley of Santa Inés, famous -for its majestic oaks, and the night passed at Los Olivos, 6 miles north -of the Mission Mattei’s Tavern at Los Olivos, is one of the most -comfortable country inns in California. The return should be made by the -Gaviota Pass and the seaside road back to Santa Barbara. The Mission of -Santa Inés (which is Spanish for Saint Agnes, whose eve gives title to -Keat’s immortal poem), is sight enough to make the trip worth while—with -white walls, red-tiled roofs and flowery, corridored front, in a valley -rimmed about with mountains. The Mission was long abandoned and in -ruins, but when the present hospitable rector took charge some 15 years -ago, he began a careful restoration and with his own hands did much of -the necessary labor to put it as we see it today.[100] - - - - - A POSTSCRIPT ON CLIMATE, WAYS AND MEANS. - - -While the climate of the Southwest is characterized by abundant sunshine -and a low degree of relative humidity, it has periods of considerable -moisture precipitation. In winter this takes the form of snow in the -northern and central portions of New Mexico and Arizona (which lie at an -elevation of 5000 feet and more above sea level). The snow, however, -except upon the mountains, disappears rather rapidly under the hot -sunshine of midday, so that the traveler has a fair chance to sandwich -his trips between the storms. The mid-year precipitation of rain is -generally during July and August, and throughout all parts of both those -States it descends usually in severe electrical storms. These occur as a -rule in the afternoon and pass quickly, but while they last they are apt -to be very, very wet. They are the occasion of sky effects of cloud and -rainbow wonderful enough to compensate for whatever discomfort the rain -may cause. In most sections the summer temperatures are on the whole -agreeable, but in the much lower altitudes of parts of southern Arizona -and New Mexico, desert conditions largely prevail, with a degree of heat -in summer that is trying to sight-seers. - -In Southern California climatic conditions differ greatly from those -east of the Colorado River. The coast year is divided naturally into a -dry season and a wet—the latter normally extending from October or -November to April or May. From about mid-spring to about mid-autumn no -rainfall whatever is to be expected, except in the high mountains where -there are occasional thundershowers during summer. The winter -precipitation comes usually in intermittent rain-storms of perhaps two -or three days’ duration (on the higher mountains these come as snow), -the intervening periods generally characterized by pleasant, sunshiny -days and by nights with temperatures (particularly during December and -January), not infrequently as low as 30 degrees Fahr. These minimums, -however, rarely hold over an hour or so; and curiously enough, though -they result in early morning frosts, only the tenderest vegetation is -killed, the mercury rising rapidly after sunrise; so that a great -variety of garden flowers bloom, and many vegetables mature, in the open -throughout the winter. A marked feature of the California 24 hours is -the wide difference between the temperature at midday and that at night, -amounting to 35 or 40 degrees F. This condition is fairly constant and -to be counted on daily. Similarly there is a very marked difference -between shade and sun. A respectful regard for this fact will save the -traveler many a bad cold. In summer, though the mercury may run well up -into the 90’s and sometimes even to over 100 degrees, the accompanying -relative humidity is low, so that it may be said that as a rule one -suffers less from heat on the Pacific Coast than on the Atlantic at a -dozen degrees lower. - -As regards clothing, a simple and safe rule for travelers in the -Southwest is to bring with them the same sort that they would wear in -New York, season for season. No part of the Southwest is tropical, or -even Floridian. - -In the matter of expenses, Southern California has had a wider -experience in catering to tourists than Arizona and New Mexico and its -facilities are now thoroughly systematized, so that the average man may, -if he chooses, live there about as cheaply as at home, or he may have -the most luxurious accommodations at the larger resorts on a basis that -only the very wealthy are familiar with. European plan is that most in -vogue in California hotels, and the one most satisfactory for the -traveler, who, in his rambles, often finds himself at meal-time far from -his hostelry. Unless you want to pay more, you may calculate on $1.00 to -$1.50 a night for a comfortable room. In Arizona and New Mexico the -sparser settlement of the country results in plainer accommodations, but -the rates are reasonable—room $1.00 a day and up; American plan rate -under normal conditions about $3.00 a day. At many points in these two -States the railways conduct hotels for the accommodation of their -patrons, and they are, in my experience, uniformly good. - -The charge for saddle-horses varies greatly. In out-of-the-way places -where the horses range for their feed, ponies may be had for a dollar a -day; but at the popular resorts, the rent of a good mount is generally -in the neighborhood of $3.00 a day; it may be even more. There is a -similar irregularity as to automobile rates. The latter are largely -influenced by the character of the trip, as 50 miles on some roads would -involve greater expense to the owner than 100 miles on others. A return -of $15 or $20 a day for a car is not infrequently considered -satisfactory, but harder trips naturally necessitate a much higher -charge. In bargaining for transportation in the Southwest, where it may -be a day’s journey between stopping places, it is well to remember that -the lowest priced is not always the cheapest. It pays to pay for -responsibility. - - - - - FOOTNOTES - - -[1]In 1883 New Mexico enterprisingly celebrated a so-called 300th - anniversary of the founding of Santa Fe, basing that function on the - assumption that Antonio de Espejo, who made an extended exploration - of the province in 1582-3, had planted a colony there. But there is - no evidence whatever that he did. - -[2]The name commemorates the first Catholic Archbishop of Santa Fe, John - B. Lamy (1850-1885), an apostolic man much beloved by the New - Mexicans, to whom he appears to have been a true spiritual father. - -[3]General Lew Wallace, while governor of New Mexico, wrote the last - three books of “Ben Hur” in the old Palace. “When in the city,” he - informed a correspondent, as quoted in Twitchell’s “Leading Facts of - New Mexico History,” “my habit was to shut myself night after night - in the bedroom back of the executive office proper, and write there - till after twelve o’clock.... The retirement, impenetrable to - incoming sound, was as profound as a cavern’s.” - -[4]An establishment of the Archaeological Institute of America, which - maintains schools also at Athens, Rome and Jerusalem. The Santa Fe - school has for years conducted research work among the ancient - remains in the Southwest, Guatemala, and other parts of the American - continent. In connection with this, it holds annually a field summer - school open to visitors. - -[5]The climate is part of Santa Fe’s cherished assets, the atmosphere - being characterized by great dryness. In summer the heat is rarely - oppressive, and the nights are normally cool and refreshing. During - July and August frequent thunder showers, usually occurring in the - afternoon, are to be expected. In winter the mercury occasionally - touches zero, and there is more or less of wind and snow interfering - temporarily with the tourist’s outings; but the sunshine is warm and - the snow melts quickly. Autumn is ideal with snappy nights and - mornings and warm, brilliantly sunny mid-days. - -[6]The traveler should be warned that Indians as a rule object to being - photographed. Originally they had an idea that ill fortune attended - the operation, but the objection nowadays is usually grounded on a - natural distaste to being made a show of, or the desire to make a - little money. In the latter case, they may succumb to the offer of a - dime if they cannot get 25 cents. It is only just and courteous to - ask permission of the subject (putting yourself in his place). This - is particularly needful at dances. Sometimes photographing these is - not tolerated; in other cases, a fee paid to the governor secures a - license for the day. - -[7]About 10 miles beyond Tesuque is the pueblo of Nambé, prettily - situated under the shoulder of the fine, snowy peak, Santa Fe Baldy, - with the lovely Nambé Falls not far away. The Indian population is - barely 100 and the village is becoming Mexicanized. Its saint’s day - is October 4, when the annual fiesta occurs. - -[8]Population about 275. Its public fiesta is held August 12. - -[9]James Mooney, “The Ghost-Dance Religion.” - -[10]You may, if you choose, do Taos from Santa Fe in your own or a hired - automobile via Tesuque and San Juan pueblos, giving a day each way to - the journey. Nambé, San Ildefonso and Santa Clara may be included by - slight detours, but the time in that case must be stretched. - -[11]Col. R. E. Twitchell quotes a tradition of the Taos people to the - effect that they came to their present home under divine guidance, - the site being indicated to them by the drop of an eagle’s feather - from the sky. - -[12]The skulls of the Cliff Dwellers indicate them to have been a - “long-headed” race, while the modern Pueblos are so only in part. It - is likely, therefore, that the latter Indians are of mixed stocks. - There is, however, abundant traditionary evidence that certain clans - of the present-day Pueblos are of Cliff descent. - -[13]Pronounced _Pah´ha-ree-to_, and meaning _little bird_. - -[14]_Recto day loce Free-ho´les_, i. e., _brook of the beans_. - -[15]From Santa Fe to the Tyuonyi and return may be made by automobile in - one strenuous day, including 2 or 3 hours at the ruins. It is better, - if possible, to board at the ranch in the cañon for a few days, both - for the purpose of examining the ruins at leisure and making some of - the interesting side trips from that point; notably to the Stone - Lions of Cochití, unique examples of aboriginal carving on stone, and - to _La Cueva Pintada_ (the Painted Cave) where are some remarkable - symbolic pictographs. Arrangements should be made with the ranch in - advance by telephone. - -[16]An ecclesiastical order existent in rural New Mexico, probably - deriving from the Third Order of Saint Francis, and distinguished by - practices of self-flagellation for the remission of sins. They are - particularly active during Lent, when they form processions, beat - themselves with knotted whips, strap bundles of cactus to their - backs, and walk barefoot or on their knees over flint-strewn ground, - bearing heavy crosses. Some of their exercises are held at the - crosses on these hill-top _calvarios_ (calvaries). The Catholic - Church discourages their practices; but they possess considerable - political power in New Mexico and of recent years the order has - become regularly incorporated as a secret fraternity under the State - law. - -[17]L. Bradford Prince, “Spanish Mission Churches of New Mexico.” - -[18]The original form of the name is Alburquerque, given in honor of a - Duke of Alburquerque, who was viceroy of New Spain at the time the - place was founded as a _villa_ in 1706. - -[19]The name Isleta means “islet,” given, according to Dr. F. W. Hodge, - because formerly the Rio Grande and an arroyo from the mountains - islanded the pueblo between them. - -[20]The church authorities, it should be said, do not endorse this - tradition. Father Zepherin Engelhardt, the historian of the - Franciscans in the Southwest, tells me that there were other - missionaries named Padilla besides Padre Juan, and the burial of one - of these in the church at Isleta, may have given color to the story. - -[21]Pronounced _bair-na-lee´yo_. It is a diminutive of Bernal, and the - place was so named because settled by descendants of Bernal Diaz, a - soldier of Cortés and contemporary chronicler of the conquest of - Mexico. It was at Bernalillo that De Vargas died, in 1704. - -[22]Including a score or so descended from the Pecos tribe who moved to - Jemes in 1838 from Pecos Pueblo. This now deserted pueblo (whose - ruins have lately been systematically excavated and whose fine old - Mission church, visible from the Santa Fe transcontinental trains, - has undergone some careful restoration) may be reached by conveyance - from the Valley Ranch near Glorieta station on the Santa Fe. In - Coronado’s time Pecos was the most populous town in the country. It - is called Cicuyé by the old chroniclers. - -[23]The nearest railway station to these lakes is Estancia on the New - Mexican Central. - -[24]Harrington, “The Ethno-geography of the Tewa Indians.” - -[25]Papers of the School of American Archaeology, No. 35. - -[26]Popular tradition persistently associates gold-hoarding with the - Franciscan Missionaries throughout the Southwest, ignoring the fact - that the members of the Seraphic Order were pledged to poverty, and - had small interest in any wealth except the unsearchable riches of - Christ, to share which with their humble Indian charges was their - sole mission in the wilderness. As for the New Mexico Indians, they - knew nothing of any mineral more precious than turquoise. - -[27]Paul A. F. Walter, “The Cities That Died of Fear.” - -[28]Apropos of these ruined Missions, it is interesting to know that the - construction was undoubtedly the work of women—house-building being - one of the immemorial duties and cherished privileges of Pueblo - womankind. - -[29]Paul A. P. Walter, “The Cities That Died of Fear.” - -[30]The Manzano range reaches an elevation of 10,600 feet here. - -[31]The formation is that known throughout New Mexico as a _mesa_ - (Spanish for _table_). Such flat-topped hills—high or low—have been - brought into being by the washing away in ancient times of the - surrounding earth. - -[32]New Mexico rural roads are in a certain Mark Tapleyian sense ideal - for motorists. Traversing unfenced plains, as they often do, if they - develop bad spots the motorist turns aside and has little difficulty - in scouting out a detour. After a rain, however, they are gummy and - slippery in adobe country until the sun hardens the clay, which it - does rather quickly. - -[33]Some of the Acomas in despair, threw themselves from the cliffs and - so died rather than surrender. A stirring account of the storming of - Acoma will be found in “The Spanish Pioneers,” by Chas. F. Lummis. - -[34]Remarkable for its light weight and ornamentation with - conventionalized leaf forms, birds, etc. Unfortunately the education - of the young Indians in Government schools is causing a decline at - all the pueblos in this purely American art. - -[35]The reader, curious to know what is on top of Katzimo, is referred - to an article, “Ascent of the Enchanted Mesa,” by F. W. Hodge, in the - Century Magazine, May, 1898. - -[36]Strictly speaking Laguna is the mother pueblo in a family of seven, - the other half dozen being summer or farming villages scattered about - within a radius of a few miles, so established to be near certain - fertile lands. Some of these, as Pojuate, are picturesque enough to - warrant a visit, if there is time. The population of all 7 is - estimated at about 1500. - -[37]For a lively account of this authentic bit of history, the reader is - referred to the chapter “A Saint in Court” in Mr. C. F. Lummis’s - “Some Strange Corners of our Country.” - -[38]Gallup is also a principal shipping point for Navajo blankets. - Travelers interested in this aboriginal handiwork will here find - large stocks to select from at the traders’ stores. - -[39]In the southwestern corner of Colorado. Here are hundreds of - prehistoric dwellings built in the cañon walls representing probably - the finest and best preserved architecture of the unknown vanished - races that once peopled our Southwest. Government archaeologists, who - have a particularly warm regard for the Mesa Verde, have been making - careful excavations and restorations here for years, and have mapped - out a program that will consume many more. The so-called Sun Temple, - excavated in 1915, apparently a communal edifice for the performance - of religious dramas, is the only one of its kind so far brought to - light in the United States. (See “Sun Temple of Mesa Verde National - Park,” by J. W. Fewkes. 1916, Gov’t Printing office.) A public camp - for tourists is maintained near the ruins during the summer months, - the high elevation (8500 feet) rendering snow likely at other - seasons. The nearest railway station is Mancos, Col., on the D. & R. - G., whence an auto-stage runs to the Park camp. - -[40]The most famous is the Shálako which occurs annually about December - 1, largely a night ceremony of great impressiveness. The central - figures are giant effigies representing divinities, whose motive - power is a Zuñi man hidden within each. They enter from the plain at - dusk, and to the plain return the next morning, after a night of - dancing and feasting by the people. - -[41]For some of the adventures of this famous couple, see F. H. - Cushing’s, “Zuñi Folk Tales.” - -[42]Reports of the Secretary of War, Senate Ex. Doc. 64, First Session - 31st Congress, 1850. A more illuminating account of the Rock is given - by Mr. Chas. F. Lummis in “Some Strange Corners of Our Country.” An - able supplement to this is a paper by H. L. Broomall and H. E. Hoopes - in Proceedings of Delaware County Institute of Science, Vol. I, No. - 1, Media, Pa. - -[43]There were poets among the Conquistadores. A printed source relied - upon by historians for authentic particulars of Oñate’s tour of - conquest is a rhymed chronicle by one of his lieutenants, Don Gaspar - de Villagrán. I believe New Mexico is the only one of our States that - can seriously quote an epic poem in confirmation of its history. This - New Mexican Homer, as H. H. Bancroft calls him, printed his book in - 1610 at Alcalá. A reprint, published in Mexico a few years ago, may - be consulted in public libraries. The original is one of the rarest - of Americana. - -[44]The Spaniards, whose avenging expedition Lujan’s cutting upon El - Morro records, never found Letrado’s body, the Zuñis having made way - with it. Earnestly desiring some relic of the martyred friar, the - soldiers were rewarded by seeing in the air a cord which descended - into their hands, and this was divided among them. So says Vetancurt, - old chronicler of Franciscan martyrdom in New Mexico. - -[45]Pronounced not as though it rhymed with _jelly_, but _chay_ (or less - correctly _shay_) rhyming with _hay_. The word is a Spanish way of - recording the cañon’s Navajo name Tse-yi, meaning “among the cliffs.” - -[46]To him, more than to any other man, is ascribed the credit of saving - the Navajo blanket industry from being hopelessly vulgarized by - ignorant and unscrupulous dealers. - -[47]“Navaho Legends,” by Dr. Washington Matthews. - -[48]Automobiles must be left at Chin Lee, where horses for exploring the - cañon may be had, if arranged for in advance. - -[49]Botanically, _Phragmites communis_, common throughout the United - States in damp places. It was through the hollow stem of one of this - species divinely enlarged, that the Navajos and Pueblos came up in - company from the underworld into this present world of light. So at - least runs the Navajo Origin legend. - -[50]The origin of the Navajo blanket is picturesque. At the time of the - Spanish conquest, the tribe was too insignificant to be mentioned. It - grew, however, rather rapidly, and in raids upon the Pueblos took - many of the latter prisoners. From these (the Pueblos had long been - weavers of native cotton) they picked up the textile art; and then - stealing sheep from the Spaniards, they inaugurated the weaving of - the woolen blanket. Only the women of the tribe are weavers, and - Doctor Matthews states that in his time, some 30 years ago, they did - it largely as an artistic recreation, just as the ladies of - civilization do embroidery or tatting. - -[51]The place of emergence is fancied to have been in an island in a - small lake in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. - -[52]Dr. W. Matthews, “Navaho Legends.” - -[53]The nearest railway station is McCarty’s, from which it lies 12 - miles to the northeast. - -[54]The classic work on Navajo customs and myths is “Navaho Legends,” by - Dr. Washington Matthews—a U. S. army surgeon who resided on their - Reservation for years. To a sympathetic attitude towards the race, he - added the practical qualification of a thorough knowledge of the - language. - -[55]Other routes from railroad points are from Winslow, Ariz., 80 miles - to the First Mesa or 75 miles to the Second Mesa; from Cañon Diablo, - Ariz., 75 miles to the Third Mesa; from Holbrook, Ariz., 90 miles to - the First Mesa. The routes from Gallup and Holbrook possess the - advantage of avoiding the crossing of the Little Colorado River, - which becomes at times impassable from high water. - -[56]A variant of this pueblo’s name is Shongópovi. - -[57]The population of the Hopi pueblos is approximately: Walpi, 250; - Sichúmovi, 100; Hano, 150; Mishong-novi, 250; Shipaulovi, 200; - Shimapovi, 200; Oraibi, 300; Hótavila, 400; Pacavi, 100. Another Hopi - village (until recently considered a summer or farming outpost of - Oraibi) is Moenkopi, 40 miles further west, with a population of - about 200. - -[58]Hopi, or Hopi-tuh, the name these Indians call themselves, means - “the peaceful,” a truthful enough appellation, for they suffer much - before resorting to force. By outsiders they have often been called - Moki, a term never satisfactorily explained, except that it is - considered uncomplimentary. - -[59]The myth has to do with the arrival of the Flute clan at Walpi - bringing with them effective paraphernalia for compelling rain to - fall. The Walpians opposed the entrance of the stranger, and this is - symbolized in the ceremony by lines of white corn meal successively - sprinkled by priests across the trail, as the procession advances - towards the village. - -[60]The inhabitants of Hano are not pure Hopi, but descended from Tewa - Pueblos of the Rio Grande region, who took up their residence here - after 1680, invited by the Hopis as a help against Apache - depredation. Though these Tewas have intermarried with their Hopi - neighbors, they are proud of their distinct ancestry, have preserved - their own language, and still practise some of their ancient - religious rites. - -[61]Mr. F. L. Lewton investigated and described this species as - _Gossypium Hopi_. Smithsonian Institution, Misc. Coll. Vol. 60, No. - 6. - -[62]This name is not Spanish or Indian for anything but just a playful - transmogrification of Adam Hanna, an old time Arizonian who once - lived there. - -[63]U. S. Geological Survey’s Guide Book of the Western United States, - Part C. - -[64]Report on the Petrified Forests of Arizona, Dept. of Interior, 1900. - -[65]The cracking of the wood in recent years has lately required the - bolstering up of this interesting petrified bridge by artificial - support, so that venturesome visitors may still enjoy walking across - it. - -[66]This is also readily reached from Holbrook station on the Santa Fe - railway, where conveyance may be obtained. The distance from Holbrook - is 18 miles. - -[67]Automobile service may be had at Adamana for a number of points of - interest within reach. Among these are the fine pueblo ruins of - Kin-tyel (Wide House) 48 miles to the northeast—a village believed to - have been built by certain clans of the Zuñis in their prehistoric - migrations. - -[68]The name is said to date from a certain Fourth of July, some 60 - years ago, when a party of emigrants camped on the site of the future - town and flew the Stars and Stripes from a pole erected in honor of - the National holiday. - -[69]Those of Walnut Cañon, about 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff, are - especially easy of access. For particulars concerning the cinder-cone - ruins (9 miles northeast of Flagstaff and also 12 miles east) the - student is referred to Dr. J. W. Fewkes’s descriptions in the 22nd - Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology, pp. 35-39. - -[70]The name commemorates “Old” Bill Williams, a noted frontiersman of - the 1830’s and ’40’s, identified with Fremont’s fourth and ill-fated - expedition, which Williams undertook to guide across the Rockies and - failed because of the snow and cold. A tributary of the Colorado - River also bears his name. - -[71]About 10 miles eastwardly; a remarkable little volcanic mountain - with a cratered summit, the glowing red rock of which it is made up - giving the upper part of the mountain the appearance at any time of - day of being illumined by the setting sun. It may be made the - objective of a pleasant half day’s trip from Flagstaff. - -[72]“The Hopi,” Walter Hough. - -[73]H. H. Robinson, “The San Francisco Volcanic Field,” Washington, - 1913. - -[74]The varied tints of the Painted Desert are due to the coloration of - the rocks and clays which form its surface. Some additional tone is - given at times by the vegetation that springs up after rainfall. - -[75]These two together with a third called Inscription House Ruin (20 - miles west of Betata Kin and so named because of certain Spanish - inscriptions upon it dated 1661) form what is called the Navajo - National Monument. At Kayenta, a post office and trading post of - Messrs. Wetherill and Colville some 20 miles southeast of Betata Kin, - pack outfits and guide may be secured to visit these ruins. Dr. J. W. - Fewkes’s description, Bulletin 50, Bureau of American Ethnology, - should be consulted for details. - -[76]The Red Rock country is also reached via Cornville and Sedona by - conveyance from Clarkdale on the Verde Valley branch of the Santa Fe - Railway, or from Jerome on the United Verde railroad. - -[77]The name commemorates that lieutenant of Coronado’s, Don Pedro de - Tovar, who in 1540 visited the Hopi villages, where he learned of the - existence of the Grand Cañon, and carried the news of it back to - Coronado at Zuñi. - -[78]The exact spot of this first view is not known—the point that today - bears the name of Cárdenas being a random guess. - -[79]The first complete exploration of the river cañons was made in 1869, - by an expedition in charge of Major J. W. Powell, the noted - ethnologist and geologist. He had boats especially built for the - trip. It was an undertaking of supreme danger, forming, as Mr. F. S. - Dellenbaugh says in his interesting “Romance of the Colorado River,” - “one of the distinguished feats of history;” for not one of the - pioneering party could have any conception of what physical obstacles - were before them when the boats set out at the Cañon’s head into the - unknown. Powell was a Civil War veteran and had but one hand. He made - a second and more leisurely trip in 1871-72. - -[80]Bright Angel is the name given by the first Powell expedition to a - creek entering the river here from the north; its bright, clear - waters being in striking contrast to a turbid little tributary - discovered not long before, which the men had dubbed “Dirty Devil - Creek.” - -[81]It is not a true salmon. Dr. David Starr Jordan identifies it as - _Ptychocheilus lucius_, and it is really a huge chub or minnow. There - is a record of one caught weighing 80 pounds; more usual are - specimens of 10 and 12 pounds. - -[82]An interesting trip with the Grand Cañon as a base is to Cataract - Cañon, a side gorge of the Grand Cañon about 40 miles west of El - Tovar. The trip may be made by wagon to the head of the trail leading - down into an arm of Cataract Cañon, but the final lap—about 15 - miles—must be on horseback or afoot. At the bottom is the reservation - of a small tribe of Indians—the Havasupais—occupying a fertile, - narrow valley hedged in by high cliffs of red limestone. There are - numerous springs and the water is used to irrigate the fields and - peach orchards of the tribe. These Indians are much Americanized, and - live under the paternal care of a local Government agency. A feature - of the Cañon is the number of fine water falls. To one exquisite one, - called Bridal Veil, it would be hard to find anywhere a mate. A - camping trip eastward from Grand View along the rim to the Little - Colorado Junction may also be made a pleasant experience, rendered - particularly glorious by the desert views. - -[83]Jerome is reached by a little railway from Jerome Junction on the - Ash Fork and Phoenix division of the Santa Fe; Clarkdale, by a branch - from Cedar Glade on the same division. The Clarkdale branch threads - for much of the way the picturesque cañon of the upper Verde River. - -[84]There is, however, no evidence of volcanic action in the vicinity; - so the depression—deep as it is—is doubtless the result of solvent or - erosive action of the waters of the Well. (J. W. Fewkes, 17th Ann. - Rep. Bureau of American Ethnology.) - -[85]17th Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology. - -[86]The climate is noted for its mildness and salubrity. There is a - local saying, “If a man wants to die in San Antonio, he must go - somewhere else!” - -[87]Pronounced _ah´la-mo_, Spanish for cottonwood. The name was probably - given from cottonwoods growing near by. The Church of the Alamo was - erected in 1744. - -[88]The reader, curious for details of the San Antonio Missions, as well - as items of local secular history, is referred to Wm. Corner’s “San - Antonio de Béxar.” He will also be interested in a picturesque sketch - of San Antonio as it was nearly half a century ago, by the Southern - poet Sidney Lanier, who in quest of health passed the winter of - 1872-3 here, and here made his resolve, faithfully carried out, to - devote the remainder of his life to music and poetry. The sketch is - printed in a collection of Lanier’s essays entitled “Retrospects and - Prospects.” - -[89]These three Missions were originally located about 15 years earlier - on sites some distance from San Antonio. Scarcity of irrigation water - is given as one important cause of their removal in 1731 to the banks - of the San Antonio River. - -[90]Silver and gold gave it its start. Its name is believed to be due to - a huge bowlder or globe of silver weighing 300 pounds, found there in - 1876. - -[91]Pronounced _Too-son´_. It is the name applied by the neighboring - Papago Indians to a mountain at the west of the present town, and - according to Dr. W. J. McGee, means “black base.” Tucson’s first - appearance in history seems to have been in 1763, as an Indian - village whose spiritual needs were served by the missionaries of San - Xavier del Bac. In 1776 a Spanish presídio was established here, and - the little pueblo became San Agustin de Tucson. An edifice, - originally a church dedicated to St. Augustine but now a lodging - house, still faces the old Spanish plaza of the town. - -[92]“An escutcheon with a white ground filed in with a twisted cord ... - and a cross on which are nailed one arm of Our Saviour and one of St. - Francis, representing the union of the disciple and the divine Master - in charity and love. The arm of our Lord is bare while that of St. - Francis is covered.” (Salpointe, “Soldiers of the Cross.”) - -[93]Engelhardt, “The Franciscans in Arizona.” The diaries of Garcés are - marked by naïve charm and simplicity. One, translated and elaborately - annotated by the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has been published under the - title “On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer.” - -[94]It stands on the west (opposite) side of the river from the railway, - a fact that may be fraught with trouble; for the river, which is - ordinarily insignificant enough to be crossed on a plank, is capable - of becoming after storms a raging flood 200 feet wide and 20 deep. - Under such circumstances, it is the part of wisdom to motor from - Tucson. - -[95]In the sanctuary were interred, and I suppose still repose, the - bones of the Franciscan Padres Baltasar Carillo and Narciso - Gutierres, whom Archbishop Salpointe in his “Soldiers of the Cross,” - credits with being the supervising builders both of the present - church of Tumacácori and that of San Xavier. - -[96]Dr. F. W. Fewkes gives this and several other folk tales concerning - the Casa Grande in the 28th Report of the Bureau of American - Ethnology, which should be consulted for an exhaustive account of the - ruin and the Government excavation work. - -[97]The following all-day trips are especially recommended: - - 1. To Redlands, in the San Bernardino foothills, one of the most - beautiful of California towns, and Riverside with its famous Mission - Inn (about 145 miles the round, including the ascent of Mt. - Roubidoux), traversing a beautiful orange and lemon district and - paralleling the stately Sierra Madre, whose highest peaks are - snow-capped in winter. (If there is time for another day this trip - may be extended in winter or spring to include the run to Palm - Springs in the desert, 50 miles beyond Redlands. This is - particularly enjoyable in March and April when the wild flowers of - the desert are in bloom—a surprising and lovely sight. There is a - good hotel at Palm Springs, but it is safest to arrange ahead for - accommodations). - - 2. To Mission San Juan Capistrano (about 120 miles the round), one - of the most interesting and poetic in its half ruin of the old - Franciscan California establishments. The road traverses the rich - agricultural districts tributary to Whittier and Santa Ana, and a - portion of the extensive Irvine, or San Joaquin Ranch (about 100,000 - acres). A detour may be made to include Laguna and Arch Beaches and - a run (over an inferior road) of ten miles overlooking a picturesque - rock-bound bit of Pacific surf. - - 3. To Mount Wilson Peak (50 miles the round, but includes 9 miles of - tortuous mountain road with a grade as high as 23% in one or two - spots). On this peak (6000 feet above the sea) are situated the - buildings of the Carnegie Solar Observatory, which, however, are not - open to the public. The views from the peak are very beautiful. The - trip can also be made by public auto-stage. There is a hotel at the - summit. - - 4. To Camulos Rancho (95 miles the round), a good example of the old - style Spanish-California ranch, utilized by Mrs. Jackson as the - scene of part of her novel “Ramona.” It is situated in the Santa - Clara Valley of the South. A stop may be made en route at Mission - San Fernando. The return trip may be made by way of Topanga Cañon - and the seaside town of Santa Monica, if an extra hour can be given - to it. - - Half-day drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles are too numerous to - be itemized here, but the following may be mentioned: - - 1. To the Mission San Fernando by way of Hollywood (famous for its - beautiful homes, and latterly as the capital of “Movie-land”) and - through the Cahuenga Pass, returning via the Topanga Cañon, the - beach and Santa Monica. - - 2. To Sunland via Alhambra and Santa Anita Avenue to the Foothill - Boulevard, Altadena, and La Cañada, returning via Roscoe and - Tropico. - - 3. To Mission San Gabriel, returning by way of Pasadena’s famous - residential districts of Oak Knoll and Orange Grove Boulevard, - thence over the Arroyo Seco Bridge and past the Annandale Country - Club, back to the city. - - 4. To Whittier and the citrus-fruit belt of the San Gabriel Valley - via either Turnbull or Brea Cañons (the latter picturesque with oil - derricks) returning by the Valley Boulevard. - -[98]“The California Padres and their Missions,” by C. F. Saunders and J. - S. Chase. - -[99]The San Marcos road has some stiff grades and should only be - traveled by experienced drivers. - -[100]For a more detailed account of the tourist attractions in Southern - California, reference is made to the author’s “Finding the Worth - While in California.” - - - - - INDEX - - - A - Abó, 60, 62. - Acevedo, Fr. Francisco, de, 60, 63. - Acoma Pueblo, 68. - Adamana, 130. - Alamo, The, 179. - Albuquerque, 43. - Anza, Juan Bautista, 198, 202. - Apache Trail, 190. - Arch Beach, 209. - Awátobi, 121. - - - B - Bácavi Pueblo, 119. - Bandelier, A. F., 34, 54, 59. - Beaver Creek, 164. - Bernalillo, 49. - Betata Kin Ruins, 148. - Bill Williams, 141. - Bitter Man, Legend of, 202. - Bowie, James, 181. - Buckman, 33, 41. - - - C - Camp Verde, 165. - Camulos Rancho, 210. - Cañon de Chelly, 103, 107. - Cañon Diablo, 116. - Carson, Kit, 29, 111. - Casa Grande Ruins, 200. - Chaco Cañon, 83. - Chímayo, 38. - Chin Lee, 103, 106. - Clarkdale, 149, 162. - Cliff Dwellings, 108, 148, 192. - Coachella Valley, 218. - Cochití Pueblo, 54. - Colorado Desert, 217. - Crockett, Davy, 181. - Cueva Pintada, La, 33. - - - E - El Cabezon, 113. - Española, 24, 41. - Estancia Valley, 56, 67. - - - F - Flagstaff, 137. - Fort Defiance, 105. - Frijoles Cañon, 33. - - - G - Gallup, 82, 102. - Ganado, 105. - Garcés, Fr. Francisco, 121, 195, 202. - 228 - Globe, 191. - Gran Quivira, 58, 60, 62, 63. - Grand Cañon, 150. - - - H - Hano Pueblo, 118, 128. - Háwikuh, 92. - Holbrook, 135. - Hollywood, 210. - Hosta Butte, 112. - Hopi Mesas, 118. - Hótavila Pueblo, 119. - - - I - Imperial Valley, 217. - Inscription House Ruin, 148. - Inscription Rock, 83, 93. - Isleta Pueblo, 44. - - - J - Jemes Pueblo, 50. - Jemes Springs, 51. - Jerome, 149, 162. - - - K - Kayenta, 148. - Keam’s Cañon, 116. - Kearney, Stephen, 8. - Keet-Seel Ruins, 148. - Kino, Fr. Eusebio, 193, 201. - Kin-tyel Ruins, 136. - - - L - Laguna Beach, 209. - Laguna Pueblo, 68, 78. - La Jolla, 216. - Lake, The Accursed, 57. - Lamy, Bishop, 5. - Lanier, Sidney, 184, 187. - Letrado, Padre, 90, 99. - Lions of Cochití, Stone, 33. - Llana, Fr. Gerónimo de la, 11, 65. - Los Angeles, 207. - Los Olivos, 220. - - - M - Manzano, 66. - McCarty’s, 112. - Mesa Encantada, 74. - Mesa Grande, 217. - Mesa Verde National Park, 83. - Mishóngnovi Pueblo, 118. - Mission Churches: - Arizona. - San José de Tumacácori, 197. - San Xavier del Bac, 195. - California. - San Antonio de Pala, 214. - San Diego, 213. - San Fernando, 210, 211. - 229 - San Gabriel, 211. - San Juan Capistrano, 210. - San Luis Rey, 213. - San Miguel, 14. - Santa Barbara, 219. - Santa Inés, 220. - New Mexico. - Pecos, 50. - San Augustin, Isleta, 47. - San Estéban, Acoma, 75. - San Felipe, 52. - San José, Laguna, 81. - Santa Cruz, 38. - Texas. - Purísima Concepcion, 182. - San Fernando, 178. - San Francisco de la Espada, 190. - San José de Aguayo, 184. - San Juan Capistrano, 190. - Moenkopi Pueblo, 147. - Montezuma’s Castle, 162, 166. - Montezuma’s Well, 162, 170. - Morro, El, 93. - Mount Lowe, 209. - Mount Taylor, 112. - Mount Wilson, 209. - Mountainair, 58. - - - N - Nambé Pueblo, 24. - National Monuments: - Bandelier, 33. - Casa Grande, 200. - El Morro, 93. - Gran Quivira, 62. - Grand Cañon, 150. - Montezuma Castle, 164. - Navajo, 148. - Petrified Forests of Arizona, 135. - Tonto, 192. - Tumacácori, 198. - Navajo blanket, origin of, 110. - Navajo Indian Reservation, 102. - Navajo Sacred Mountains, 111. - - - O - Oak Creek Cañon, 141. - Ojai Valley, 220. - Ojo Caliente, 92. - Ojo del Gigante, 67. - Oñate, Juan de, 4, 7, 26, 95, 97. - Oraibi Pueblo, 118. - Otowi, 32. - - - P - Padre Padilla’s Coffin, 47. - Painted Desert, 117, 134, 141, 145. - Painted Rocks of Abó, 64. - Pajarito Park, 32. - 230 - Pala, 214. - Palm Springs, 218. - Pasadena, 207. - Pecos National Forest, 41. - Pecos Pueblo, 50. - Pelado Peak, 111. - Penitentes, Order of, 36. - Petrified Forest of Arizona, 130. - Phoenix, 189. - Photographing Indians, 23. - Pimería Alta, 188. - Popé, 26, 28. - Pueblo Bonito, 83. - Pueblo Indians, characteristics, 23. - Puyé, 31. - - - Q - Quaraí, 11, 64. - - - R - Rainbow Forest, 135. - Ramah, 93, 100. - Ramirez, Fr. Juan, 72. - Redlands, 208. - Red Rock Country, 149, 163. - Rito de los Frijoles, 33, 54, 63. - Riverside, 208, 218. - Roosevelt Dam, 189, 191. - - - S - San Antonio, 176. - San Diego, 213. - San Felipe Pueblo, 52. - San Francisco Mountain, 112, 140. - San Francisco Peaks, 125, 138, 139. - San Gabriel Mission, 211. - San Ildefonso Pueblo, 25. - San Juan Pueblo, 25. - San Matéo Mountain, 111. - San Xavier del Bac Mission, 192, 194. - Sandía Pueblo, 49. - Santa Ana Pueblo, 50. - Santa Barbara, 219. - Santa Catalina Island, 218. - Santa Clara Pueblo, 25. - Santa Cruz Valley, N. M., 35. - Santa Cruz Valley, Ariz., 193. - Santa Cruz de la Canada, N. M., 37. - Santa Fe, 1. - Santa Inés Mission, 220. - Santa Mónica, 210. - Santo Domingo Pueblo, 52. - Santo Niño, 37. - Santuario, 34, 39. - Shálako Dance, Zuñi, 88. - Shimópovi Pueblo, 118. - Shípapu, 27. - Shipaúlovi Pueblo, 118. - Shongópovi Pueblo, 118. - Sia Pueblo, 51. - Sichúmovi Pueblo, 118. - 231 - Simpson, Lieut., J. H., 94. - Stages, Modern Auto-, 165. - Steamboat Rock, 117. - St. Michael’s Mission, 105, 116. - - - T - Tabirá, 59. - Tajique, 11. - Taos, 27. - Tchrega, 32. - Tesuque Pueblo, 20. - Tewa Pueblo, 118, 128. - Topanga Cañon, 210. - Towa-yálleni, 85, 90. - Truchas Peaks, 42. - Tsankawi, 32. - Tuba, 147. - Tubac, 197, 199. - Tucson, 192. - Tumacácori, 198. - Tyuonyi, 33, 65. - - - V - Vargas, Diego de, 7, 12, 25, 49, 90, 95, 98. - Verde Valley, 162. - - - W - Wallace, Lew, 11. - Walnut Cañon, 138. - Walpi Pueblo, 118, 123. - Warner’s Hot Springs, 217. - Whittier, 209, 210. - Wide House Ruins, 136. - Winslow, 116. - - - Z - Zárate, Fr. Ascencio de, 12. - Zuñi, 82. - - - - - Glacier National Park - - -Every day brings a new experience—crowded with scenic delight—at Glacier -National Park—Uncle Sam’s playground in the Montana Rockies. - -Maybe you are going over the “Notch”—sky-high Gunsight Pass—on a -surefooted horse—a real mountaineer experience. Perhaps you’re gliding -amid tremendous scenes over a modern motor trail through the thick of -the wilds. Another day, you pow-wow with the picturesque Blackfeet -Indians. - -Send for descriptive literature with maps and photographic views of the -Park’s beauty spots and definite information as to cost. Write - - C. E. STONE - Passenger Traffic Manager - ST. PAUL, MINN. - -[Illustration] - - - - - Outwest Outings - “Off the beaten path” - New Mexico and Arizona - - - Rainbow Bridge - Grand Canyon of Arizona - Petrified Forest - Painted Desert - Ancient Indian Pueblos - Prehistoric Cliff Ruins - New Mexico Rockies - Santa Fe - - Ask for new booklet - “Off the beaten Path” - of Maps and Pictures - W. J. Black, Pass. Traf. Mgr. - AT&SF Ry—1118 Ry. Exch. Chi· - -[Illustration] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - ---Some palpable typographical errors were corrected. - ---Copyright and publisher’s information was included from the printed - copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the -Southwest, by Charles Francis Saunders - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - -***** This file should be named 50933-0.txt or 50933-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/9/3/50933/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Finding the Worth While in the Southwest - -Author: Charles Francis Saunders - -Release Date: January 15, 2016 [EBook #50933] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - - Finding the Worth While - in the Southwest - - - BY - CHARLES FRANCIS SAUNDERS - Author of "Finding the Worth While in California," - "The Indians of the Terraced Houses," etc. - - - _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_ - - "The Sun goes West, - Why should not I?" - _Old Song._ - - - NEW YORK - ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY - 1918 - - Copyright, 1918, by - Robert M. McBride & Co. - - Published May, 1918 - - TO - M. H. R. - Kinswoman most dear - This little volume is affectionately inscribed. - - - - - PREFACE - - -No part of the United States is so foreign of aspect as our great -Southwest. The broad, lonely plains, the deserts with their mystery and -color, the dry water courses, the long, low mountain chains seemingly -bare of vegetation, the oases of cultivation where the fruits of the -Orient flourish, the brilliant sunshine, the deliciousness of the pure, -dry air--all this suggests Syria or northern Africa or Spain. Added to -this are the remains everywhere of an old, old civilization that once -lived out its life here--it may have been when Nineveh was building or -when Thebes was young. Moreover, there is the contemporary interest of -Indian and Mexican life such as no other part of the country affords. - -In this little volume the author has attempted, in addition to outlining -practical information for the traveler, to hint at this wealth of human -association that gives the crowning touch to the Southwest's charm of -scenery. The records of Spanish explorers and missionaries, the legends -of the aborigines (whose myths and folklore have been studied and -recorded by scholars like Bandelier, Matthews, Hough, Cushing, -Stevenson, Hodge, Lummis, and others) furnish the raw material of a -great native literature. Painters long since discovered the fascination -of our Southwest; writers, as yet, have scarcely awakened to it. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - I Santa Fe, the Royal City of St. Francis's Holy Faith 1 - II The Upper Rio Grande, its Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings 20 - III Roundabout Albuquerque 43 - IV The Dead Cities of the Salines 56 - V Of Acoma, City of the Marvellous Rock; and Laguna 68 - VI To Zui, the Center of the Earth, via Gallup 82 - VII El Morro, the Autograph Rock of the Conquistadores 93 - VIII The Storied Land of the Navajo 102 - IX The Homes of the Hopis, Little People of Peace 116 - X The Petrified Forest of Arizona 130 - XI Flagstaff as a Base 137 - XII The Grand Caon of the Colorado River in Arizona 150 - XIII Montezuma's Castle and Well, Which Montezuma Never Saw 162 - XIV San Antonio 176 - XV In the Country of the Giant Cactus 188 - XVI Southern California 204 - A Postscript on Climate, Ways and Means 222 - Index 227 - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - FACING PAGE - An Acoma Indian Dance 72 - Laguna, the Mother Pueblo of Seven 73 - Bead Maker, Zui Pueblo 82 - A Street in Acoma Pueblo 83 - Old Church, Acoma Pueblo 88 - A Sunny Wall in Zui 89 - Casa Blanca or White House 116 - El Morro or Inscription Rock, N. M. 117 - In the North Petrified Forest 135 - A Corner in Santa Fe, N. M. 136 - Old Governor's Palace, Santa Fe, N. M. 162 - Montezuma's Castle 163 - San Jos de Aguayo 184 - San Xavier del Bac, Arizona 185 - - - - - CHAPTER I - SANTA FE--THE ROYAL CITY OF SAINT FRANCIS'S HOLY FAITH - - -Someone--I think it was that picturesque historian of our Southwest, Mr. -Charles F. Lummis--has summed up New Mexico as "sun, silence and adobe;" -and of these three components the one that is apt to strike the Eastern -newcomer most forcibly is adobe. This homely gift of nature--hard as -brick in dry weather, plastic as putty and sticky as glue in wet--is the -bulwark of the New Mexican's well-being. His crops are raised in it; he -fences in his cattle with it; he himself lives in it; for of it are -built those colorless, square, box-like houses, flat-roofed and eaveless -which, on our first arrival in New Mexico, we declared an architectural -abomination, and within a week fell eternally in love with. An adobe -house wall is anywhere from two to five feet thick, a fact that conduces -to coolness in summer, warmth in winter, and economy at all seasons. -Given possession of a bit of ground, you grub up a few square yards of -the earth, mix it with water and wheat chaff, and shovel the mixture -into a wooden mold. You then lift the mold and lo! certain big, brown -bricks upon the ground. These the fiery New Mexican sun bakes hard for -you in a couple of days--bricks that are essentially the same as those -of ancient Babylon and Egypt, and the recipe for which (received by the -Spanish probably from their Moorish conquerors) is one of Spain's most -valued contributions to America. Old Santa Fe was built entirely of this -material, and most of latter day Santa Fe still is, though there is a -growing disposition on the part of the well-to-do to substitute burned -brick and concrete. - -As a rule these adobe dwellings are of one story, and the more -pretentious are constructed partly or entirely about an inner court, -such as in Spain is called a _patio_, but in New Mexico a _plazita_, -that is, a little plaza. A cheerful sanctuary is this _plazita_, where -trees cast dappled shadows and hollyhocks and marigolds bloom along the -sunny walls. Upon it the doors and windows of the various rooms open, -and here the family life centers. By the kitchen door Trinidad prepares -her _frijoles_ and chili, while the children tease her for tidbits; upon -the grass the house rugs and _serapes_ are spread on cleaning days, in -kaleidoscopic array, and beaten within an inch of their lives; here, of -summer evenings Juan lounges and smokes and Juanita swings in the -hammock strumming a guitar, or the family gramophone plays "La -Golondrina." - -Comparisons are always invidious, but if there be among the cities of -the United States, one that is richer in picturesqueness, in genuine -romance, in varied historic, archaeologic and ethnologic interest, than -Santa Fe, it has still I think to make good its claims. The distinction -of being the oldest town in our country, as has sometimes been claimed, -is, however, not Santa Fe's.[1] Indeed, the exact date of its founding -is still subject to some doubt, though the weight of evidence points to -1605. Nor was it even the original white settlement in New Mexico. That -honor belongs to the long since obliterated San Gabriel, the site of -which was on or near the present-day hamlet of Chamita, overlooking the -Rio Grande about 35 miles north of Santa Fe. There in 1598 the conqueror -of New Mexico, Don Juan de Oate (a rich citizen of Zacatecas, and the -Spanish husband, by the way, of a granddaughter of Montezuma) -established his little capital, maintaining it there until the second -town was founded. To this latter place was given the name _La Villa Real -de Santa F de San Francisco de Ass_--the Royal City of Saint Francis -of Assisi's Holy Faith. Naturally that was too large a mouthful for -daily use, and it was long ago pared down to just Santa Fe, though Saint -Francis never lost his status as the city's patron. In point of -antiquity, the most that can justly be claimed for it is that it is the -first permanent white settlement in the West. - -The situation of Santa Fe is captivating, in the midst of a sunny, -breeze-swept plain in the lap of the Southern Rockies, at an elevation -of 7000 feet above the sea. Through the middle of the city flows the -little, tree-bordered Rio de Santa F, which issues a couple of miles -away from a gorge in the imposing Sierra Sangre de Cristo (the Mountains -of the Blood of Christ), whose peaks, often snow-clad, look majestically -down in the north from a height of 10,000 to 13,000 feet. The town is -reached from Lamy[2] by a branch of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe -Railway, which climbs due north for 18 miles through an uninhabitated -waste dotted with low-growing pion, juniper and scrub. At the station a -small army of bus, hack and automobile men greet you with enthusiasm, -and to reach your hotel you have only the choice of them or your own -trotters, for street cars there are none. In Santa Fe, however, no place -is far from any other place--the population is but a scant 8500. Of -these a large percentage is of Spanish blood, and Spanish speech and -Spanish signs engage your attention on every hand. - -The hub of the city is the Plaza--warm and sunny in winter, shady and -cool in summer. Seated here on a bench you soon arrive at a lazy man's -notion of the sort of place you are in. Here the donkeys patter by laden -with firewood--dearest of Santa Fe's street pictures; here Mexican -peddlers of apples and _dulces_, _piones_ and shoe-strings ply their -mild trade, and Tesuque Indians, with black hair bound about with -scarlet _bandas_, pass by to the trader's, their blankets bulging with -native pottery, or, in season, their wagons loaded with melons, grapes, -apples, and peaches. Of afternoons the newsboys loiter about crying the -papers, and you have a choice of your news in English or Spanish; and on -Sundays and holidays the band plays athletically in its little kiosk, -the crowd promenading around and around the while very much as in Old -Mexico, and strewing the ground behind it with pion and peanut shells. - -Close to the Plaza, too, cluster many of the historied spots of Santa -Fe; indeed, the Plaza itself is a chief one. On this bit of ground it is -confidently believed that Oate must have camped in 1605--if it was -1605--when the capital was transferred from San Gabriel; and there is no -doubt whatever that here was the seething center of the famous Pueblo -revolt of 1680, when 3000 infuriated Indians cooped the entire Spanish -population of Santa Fe within the Governor's Palace opposite, and kept -them there for a week. Then the whites made a brave sortie, caught and -hanged 50 Indians in the Plaza and escaped to Old Mexico--their exit -being celebrated shortly afterwards in this same Plaza by the Indians' -making a bonfire of all Spanish archives and church belongings they -could lay hands on. Here 13 years later came De Vargas, the re-conqueror -of New Mexico (bearing it is said the very standard under which Oate -had marched in the original conquest), and with his soldiers knelt -before the reinstated cross. And it was in this Plaza in 1846, during -our Mexican War, that General Stephen Kearny ran up the Stars and -Stripes and took possession of the territory in the name of the United -States. It was the Plaza, too, that formed the western terminus of the -Old Santa Fe Trail--that famous highway of trade that bound New Mexico -with Anglo-Saxondom throughout the Mexican regime in the Southwest and -until the iron horse and Pullman cars superseded mules and Conestoga -wagons. At the old adobe hotel known as La Fonda, a remnant of which -still stands at this writing just across from the southeast corner of -the Plaza, travelers and teamsters, plainsmen and trappers found during -half a century that boisterous brand of cheer dear to the pioneer -soul--cheer made up quite largely of cards, _aguardiente_ and the -freedom of firearms, but gone now, let us trust, out of the world -forever since the world has lost its frontiers. - -Facing the Plaza on the north is the ancient _Palacio Real_ or -Governor's Palace--a long, one-storied adobe building occupying the -length of the block, and faced with the covered walk or portico (they -call such a _portal_ in New Mexico) which in former years was a feature -of every building of importance in Santa Fe. Within its thick walls for -nearly three centuries the governors of New Mexico resided--Spaniards, -Pueblo Indians, Spaniards again, Mexicans and finally Americans.[3] In -1909 the building was set aside as the home of the Museum of New Mexico -(since removed to a handsome edifice of its own in the New Mexico style -of architecture across the street), and of the School of American -Research.[4] Some careful restoration work was then done, necessary to -remove modern accretions and lay bare certain interesting architectural -features incorporated by the original builders, such as the handwrought -woodwork, the fireplaces, doorways, etc., so that the edifice as it -appears today is outwardly very much as it must have looked a century or -two ago. The festoons of dried Indian ears, however, which are said to -have been a rather constant adornment of the _portal_ in old times, are -now, to the relief of sensitive souls, humanely absent. Within, the -Palace is a mine of information for the curious in the history, -archaeology and ethnology of our Southwest, and a leisurely visit to it -makes a useful preliminary to one's travels about the State. The -building is open to all without charge. - -A short block from the Plaza is the Cathedral of San Francisco, whose -unfinished trunks of towers are a prominent feature in Santa Fe's low -sky-line. You may or may not get something from a visit to it. It is a -modern structure, still incomplete, built upon and about an older church -believed to date from 1622. Beneath the altar reposes all that is mortal -of two seventeenth century Franciscan missionaries to the New Mexico -aborigines. Of one of these, Padre Gernimo de la Llana, I cannot -forbear a word of mention. He was a true brother of Saint Francis, and -for many years ministered lovingly to the Indians of the long since -ruined pueblo of Quara, a place of which more later. At Quara he died -in 1659, and his body was interred in the old church there whose walls -still stand, one of the most striking ruins in New Mexico. To his -Indians he was no less than a saint, and when (under attacks from -Apaches, doubtless) they abandoned their pueblos about 1670, they bore -with them what remained of their dear _padre santo_ to Tajique, a pueblo -some 15 miles distant, and buried him there. But in those days Apaches -never ceased from raiding, and from Tajique, too, some years later, -those Pueblo folk were forced to flee--this time across the rugged -Sierra Manzano to Isleta on the Rio Grande. That was a journey of too -great hardship, I suppose, to admit of carrying the now crumbled padre -with them; so he was left in his unmarked tomb in a savage-harried land, -to be quite forgotten until 85 years later (in 1759) pious old Governor -F. A. Marin del Valle heard of him. A search was speedily set on foot -and after a long quest the bones of Padre Gernimo were found, brought -to Santa Fe, and becomingly once more interred. Then, alas! the poor -brother dropped out of mind again until in 1880, when during some work -upon the new Cathedral, the discovery of an inscription set in the wall -121 years before by Governor del Valle led to the finding of the grave. -I think you will be interested to read the quaint Spanish epitaphs of -this fine old friar, and of his companion, too, Padre Asencio de Zrate, -sometime of Picurs pueblo. They may be found behind the high altar, -which hides them. - -Also in the Cathedral, it is believed, rests the mortality of Don Diego -de Vargas, _el Reconquistador_, but unmarked. You will find many an echo -of him in Santa Fe, for he it was who in 1692 re-conquered New Mexico -for Spain after the Pueblo uprising of 1680 had swept the Spaniards out -of the province and for twelve years kept them out. Every year in June -Santa Fe celebrates its De Vargas Day, when a procession, bearing at its -head an image of the Virgin, marches from the Cathedral to the little -Rosario Chapel that is dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary (or as Santa -Fans sometimes call her, _La Conquistadora_, the Lady Conqueror). It -occupies the spot, on the city outskirts, where according to tradition -De Vargas knelt on the eve of his second entry into the capital -(December 16, 1693), and invoking the blessing of the Virgin upon his -arms, promised her a chapel if she vouchsafed him victory on the morrow. -It is a scant half-hour's stroll thither from the Plaza, and you will -enjoy the walk through the city's half foreign scenes, though the -building itself is disappointing because of its handling by tasteless -renovators. Much more picturesque, though modernized with an astonishing -steeple, is the little church of Guadalupe, standing amid Lombardy -poplars on the south bank of the river. A quiet, reposeful, little -temple, this, with beautifully carved ceiling beams and a curious, if -crude, altar-piece representing the appearances of Mexico's Heavenly -Patroness to Juan Diego. - -Of the churches in Santa Fe, however, the one that is made most of by -visitors, is the square-towered adobe of San Miguel. It is a pleasant -twenty-minute walk from the Plaza (and, by all means, do walk when you -go, for the way thither is too picturesque to be whisked over in an -automobile)--through quiet, unpaved streets lined with one-storied adobe -houses and often too narrow to accommodate any but a mere thread of -sidewalk, where you bump into burros and, like as not, have utter -strangers tip their hats to you with a _buenos dias, seor_. You pass -the Bishop's sequestered gardens and the high-walled grounds of the -Convent and Academy of the Sisters of Loretto, with glimpses through a -postern gate of old-fashioned flower beds; and further on, the touching -little cemetery of the Sisters, each simple grave marked by a cross -whereon vines and fragrant flowers lean lovingly; and so, on stepping -stones, to the south side of the little Rio de Santa Fe. Then mounting -the hill past more gardens where hollyhocks--_la barra de San Jos_ (St. -Joseph's rod) the New Mexicans call them--nod at you over the walls, and -children prattle in Spanish and women sing at their work, there you are -before old San Miguel. - -Your first feeling is a bit of a shock, for the renovator's hand has -fallen heavily upon San Miguel and, frankly speaking, it is a rather -hideous old church as viewed from the street. When, however, you have -rung the sacristan's bell and a Christian Brother from the adjoining -Catholic college has come with the keys to usher you within, you pass in -a twinkling into the twilight heart of the Seventeenth Century. Here are -blackened, old religious paintings said to have been carried by the -Conquistadores as standards of defense in battle; a wonderful old bell -inscribed with a prayer to St. Joseph and bearing an all but illegible -date that looks surprisingly like 1356, and maybe it is; a charming old -wooden cross-beam supporting the _coro_, or choir gallery, its color -mellowed by time and its surface carved with rude but beautiful flutings -and flourishes by some long-vanished hand of the wilderness; and so -on--all delightfully embellished by the nave expositions of the kindly -Brother who acts as cicerone. And do not leave without a glimpse through -the side door of the sunny quiet garden close, that lies between the -church and the college building. As to the age of San Miguel, there has -been much misinformation given--claims of its dating from 1543 being -quite groundless. The known fact is that it was established as a chapel -for the Mexican (Tlascalan) Indians who were part of the original Santa -Fe colony. It therefore dates from some time on the hither side of 1605. -In 1680 it suffered partial destruction in the Pueblo uprising, though -its walls survived; and, after some repairs by order of De Vargas, it -was finally restored completely in 1710, by the Spanish governor of that -time, the Marquis de la Peuela. The record of this fact inscribed in -Spanish upon the main beam of the gallery is still one of the -interesting "bits" in the church. Probably it is safe to call San Miguel -the oldest existing building for Christian worship in the United States. - -If you are in a hurry you may "do" Santa Fe and its immediate environs -in a carriage or an automobile in a couple of days, and departing -secretly think it a rather overrated little old place. To get into the -atmosphere of it, however, you should drop hurry at its gates and make -up your mind to spend at least a week there, and longer if you can. -Lounge in the Plaza and watch the ebb and flow of the city life that -gathers here; drop into the Indian trading stores and get a taste for -aboriginal art. White man's schooling has brought about of late years a -decline in the quality of Indian handicraft, but there is still a lot of -interest in these Santa Fe curio shops--Navajo and Chmayo blankets, -Pueblo pottery, Navajo silver jewelry, Apache baskets, moccasins, -bead-work, quaint tobacco pouches, Spanish and Mexican -things--_serapes_, _mantillas_, rusty daggers, old silver snuff -boxes--and what not. Mount the hill at the city's northern edge, and sit -on the ruined walls of the old _garita_ (where the Mexican customs used -to be levied upon imports by the Santa Fe Trail). There you get a -magnificent bird's-eye view of the city in its mountain fastness, and if -the day be waning you will have a sunset for your benediction, long to -remember. Extend your rambles sometimes to the outskirts for -unadvertised sights--the little ranches with their outdoor threshing -floors of beaten earth where in August you may see the wheat tramped out -by horses, sheep or goats, and winnowed by tossing in the breeze; -_paisanas_ washing their linen on stones by the brookside as in Italy or -Spain; and the gaunt _descansos_ or crosses of rest, marking stopping -places of funerals, and carving in illiterate Spanish scrawled upon the -wood, prayers for the repose of departed souls. If you are fortunate -enough to have a little Spanish, your enjoyment will be enhanced by -stopping at humble doorways for a bit of chat with Juan Bautista the -woodchopper, or Maria Rosala the laundress. You will be civilly -welcome, if you yourself are civil, and be handed a chair, if there be -one, and will be refreshed to learn something of the essential oneness -and kindliness of the human family whether clothed in white skin or -brown. It is this pervading air of Old Worldliness that makes the -peculiar charm of Santa Fe for the leisurely traveler--its romance and -its history are not altogether hidden away in books, but are an obvious -part of its living present. - -Moreover, Santa Fe is the starting point for numerous interesting -out-of-town trips. These are story for another chapter.[5] - - - - - CHAPTER II - THE UPPER RIO GRANDE, ITS PUEBLOS AND ITS CLIFF DWELLINGS - - -Of course you must make the trip--a half day will suffice for it--from -Santa Fe to Tesuque, a village of the Pueblo Indians 9 miles to the -north, and you should pronounce it _Te-soo'kay_. If your knowledge of -Indians has been limited to the variety seen in Wild West Shows and -historical pictures, you will be surprised at those you find at Tesuque. -This is a quaint adobe village around a spacious plaza upon which an -ancient, whitewashed Catholic church faces. The houses when of more than -one story are built terrace-like, so that the roof of the first story -forms a front yard to the second. Ladders lean against the outer walls, -by which access is gained to the upper rooms. The population of about -150 live very much like their Mexican neighbors, raising by irrigation -crops of corn, beans, peaches, melons, and alfalfa, accepting meanwhile -from the liberal hand of Nature rabbits, _piones_ and wild plums, and -pasturing sheep and cattle on the communal pueblo lands which Spain -granted them centuries ago and which our Government confirmed to them -upon the acquisition of New Mexico. Their method of town building is not -borrowed from the whites, but is their own; and because the Spanish -Conquistadores of the sixteenth century found the region sprinkled with -such permanent villages, called _pueblos_ in Spanish, they named the -people Pueblo Indians--a term which well characterizes them in -contra-distinction to the nomadic tribes, whose villages moved as the -tribe moved. - -Tesuque is a type of a score or so of pueblos scattered along a line of -some 300 miles in northern New Mexico and Arizona. Formerly the dress of -these Indians was quite distinctive, but association with the whites has -modified its quality of late years, though it still retains some of the -old features--particularly in the case of the women, who are more -disposed than the men to conservatism. Their native costume is a dark -woolen gown belted at the waist and falling a little below the knees, -and a sort of cape of colored muslin fastened about the neck and hanging -down the back. The lower part of the legs is often swathed in a buckskin -extension of the moccasins in which the feet are encased. The hair is -banged low upon the forehead and both women's and men's are clubbed at -the back and bound with red yarn. The native attire of the men is a -loose cotton shirt worn outside short, wide trousers. Instead of a hat a -narrow _banda_ of colored cotton or silk is bound about the hair. - -Each village has its local government--and a very competent sort it -is--of a democratic nature, a governor, as well as a few other -officials, being elected annually by popular vote. Besides these, there -is a permanent council of old men who assist in the direction of -affairs. Most of the Pueblo Indians are nominal adherents to Roman -Catholicism, but have by no means lost hold of their pagan faith. On the -patron saint's day a public fiesta is always held. After mass in the -church, there are native dances and ceremonies, accompanied by feasting -continuing well into the night. November 12, St. James's Day, is the day -celebrated by Tesuque, and visitors are many.[6] - -The Pueblos are as a class industrious, fun-loving, and friendly to -white visitors. They are naturally hospitable and quickly responsive to -any who treat them sympathetically and as fellow human beings. The -lamentable fact that white Americans have too often failed in this -respect, acting towards them as though they were animals in a zoo, is -largely responsible for tales we hear of Indian surliness and ill-will. -Pueblo women are skillful potters, and while Tesuque does not now excel -in this art, one may pick up some interesting souvenirs both in clay and -beadwork. At any rate, you will enjoy seeing these things being made in -the common living-room of the house, while the corn is being ground on -the _metates_ or mealing stones, and the mutton stew simmers on the open -hearth. A knowledge of values first obtained at reputable traders' shops -in Santa Fe, is advisable, however, before negotiating directly with the -Indians, as they are becoming pretty well schooled in the art of -charging "all the traffic will bear." Tesuque produces a specialty in -the shape of certain dreadful little pottery images called "rain gods," -which must not be taken seriously as examples of sound Pueblo art.[7] - -Thirty-three miles north of Santa Fe on the Denver and Rio Grande -Railway is the village of Espaola, where a plain but comfortable hotel -makes a convenient base for visiting several points of interest in the -upper Rio Grande Valley. A mile to the south is Santa Clara pueblo,[8] -long famous for its beautiful shining black pottery almost Etruscan in -shape. The clay naturally burns red, but a second baking with the fuel -(dried chips of cattle manure), pulverized finely and producing a dense -black smoke, gives the ware its characteristic lustrous black. Seven -miles further down the river but on the other side, is another pueblo, -San Ildefonso, a picturesque village of 125 Indians, near the base of La -Mesa Hurfana. This is a flat-topped mountain of black lava, on whose -summit in 1693, several hundred Pueblos entrenched themselves and for -eight months stubbornly resisted the attempts of the Spanish under De -Vargas to bring them to terms. That was practically the last stand of -Pueblo rebeldom, which thirteen years before had driven every Spaniard -from the land. San Ildefonso has public fiestas on January 23 and -September 6. - -Six miles north of Espaola and close to the Rio Grande is San Juan -pueblo, with a population of about 400 Indians. Here one is in the very -cradle of the white civilization of the Southwest. At this spot in the -summer of 1598, Don Juan de Oate--he of the Conquest--arrived with his -little army of Spaniards, his Franciscan missionaries, his colonist -families, a retinue of servants and Mexican Indians, his wagons and -cattle, to found the capital of the newly won "kingdom" later to be -called New Mexico. The courtesy of the Indians there, who temporarily -gave up their own houses to the Spaniards, was so marked that their -pueblo became known as _San Juan de los Caballeros_ (Saint John of the -Gentlemen). Oate's settlement--of which no vestige now remains--is -believed to have been situated just across the Rio Grande from San Juan, -about where the hamlet and railway station of Chamita now stands. San -Juan pueblo is further distinguished as the birthplace of Pop, the -Indian to whose executive genius is due the success of the Pueblo -Rebellion of 1680. A picturesque figure, that same Pop, of the timber -dramatic heroes are made of. It is said that, while meditating the -rebellion, he journeyed to the enchanted lagoon of Shpapu, the place -where in the dim past the Pueblos had emerged from the underworld and -whither they return at death. There he conferred with the spirits of his -ancestors, who endued him with power to lead his people to victory.[9] -The San Juan women make a good black pottery similar to that of Santa -Clara. On Saint John's Day, June 24, occurs a public fiesta, with -procession and dances, attracting visitors, white and red, from far and -near. - -Having got thus far up the Rio Grande, let nothing deter you from -visiting Taos (they pronounce it _Towss_). By automobile it is about 50 -miles northeast of Espaola or you can reach it quite expeditiously by -Denver & Rio Grande train to Taos Junction and auto-connection thence -about 30 miles to Taos.[10] Situated in a fertile plain, 7000 feet above -the sea, in the heart of the Southern Rockies, Taos is one of the most -charming places in America. It is in three parts. There is the outlying -hamlet Ranchos de Taos; then the picturesque Mexican town Fernandez de -Taos, famous in recent years for a resident artist colony whose pictures -have put Taos in the world of art; and lastly, there is the pueblo of -Taos. From very early times the pueblo has played an important role in -New Mexican history. It was here the San Juaneo Pop found the readiest -response to his plans of rebellion. Later the location on the confines -of the Great Plains made it an important trading center with the more -northern Indians. The annual summer fair for _cambalache_, or traffic by -barter, held at Taos in the latter part of the eighteenth century, was a -famous event, the Plains tribes bringing skins and furs and Indian -captives to trade for horses, beads and metal implements. The commercial -opportunities combined with the fertility of the soil and an unfailing -water supply led to the founding of Fernandez de Taos by whites. In the -days of Mexican supremacy part of the traffic over the Santa Fe Trail -passed this way and a custom house was here. The ruins of a large adobe -church in the pueblo form a memento of the troublous days of 1847, when -a small rebellion participated in by Mexicans and a few Taos Indians -took place here and the American governor, Bent, was murdered. At -Fernandez de Taos, the famous frontiersman Kit Carson lived for many -years, and here his grave may still be seen. - -Taos pueblo, housing an Indian population of about 500, is the most -northern in New Mexico, and perhaps the most perfect specimen existing -of Pueblo architecture. It consists of two imposing pyramidal house -clusters of 5 to 7 stories--aboriginal apartment houses--and between -them happily flows the little Rio de Taos sparkling out of the Glorieta -Caon near whose mouth the pueblo stands. The three-mile drive or walk -from Fernandez de Taos is very lovely, with the pueblo's noble -background of mountains before you, their purple and green flanks -wonderfully mottled and dashed in autumn with the gold of the aspen -forests. The men of Taos are a tall, athletic sort, quite different in -appearance from the more southern Pueblos. They wear the hair parted in -the middle and done at the side in two braids which hang in front of the -shoulders. They are much addicted to their blankets; and one often sees -them at work with the blankets fastened about the waist and falling to -the knees like a skirt. In warm weather they sometimes substitute a -muslin sheet for the woolen blanket, and few sights are more striking -than a Taos man thus muffled to his eyebrows in pure white. - -Annually on September 30th occurs the _Fiesta de San Gernimo de Taos_, -which is one of the most largely attended of all Pueblo functions. -Crowds of Americans, Mexicans and Indians (a sprinkling of Apaches among -Pueblos of several sorts) line the terraced pyramids and make a scene so -brilliant and strange that one wonders that it can be in America. The -evening before, near sundown, there is a beautiful Indian dance in the -plaza of the pueblo, the participants bearing branches of quivering -aspens. With the sunset light upon the orange and yellow of the foliage -as the evening shadows gather, it is an unforgettable sight. Yes, you -must by all means see Taos. There are hotel accommodations at Fernandez -de Taos.[11] - -But Espaola serves, too, as a base for outings of quite another sort. -One of these is to the remarkable prehistoric cliff village known as the -Puy in the Santa Clara Caon, about 10 miles west of Espaola. Here at -the edge of a pine forest a vast tufa cliff rises, its face marked with -pictographs of unknown antiquity and honeycombed with dwellings of a -vanished people, probably ancestors, of some of the present-day -Pueblos.[12] These cliff chambers are quite small, and their walls bear -still the soot from prehistoric fires. Climbing by an ancient trail to -the summit of the mesa of which the cliff is a side, you come upon the -leveled ruins of what was once a magnificent, terraced community house, -built of tufa blocks and containing hundreds of rooms. Rambling from -room to room, picking up now a bit of broken pottery, now a charred -corn-cob, poking into the ashes of fireplaces where the last embers were -quenched before history in America began, you experience, I hope, a -becoming sense of your youth as a white American. And the view from this -noble tableland--a view those ancient people had every day of their -lives! One wonders had they eyes to see it--the lovely valley of the Rio -Grande, purple chain after chain of mountains on every side, the jagged -peaks of the Sangre de Cristo, the Glorietas, the Jemes, and dim on the -far horizon, the Sierra Blanca in Colorado. - -Also dotting the same plateau (this region by the way, is now called -Pajarito[13] Park) are numerous other prehistoric community houses--the -Otowi (with its curious tent-like rock formations), the Tsnkawi, the -Tchrega--all of absorbing interest to the archaeologic mind, but -offering not much that seems new to the average tourist who has seen the -Puy. One, however, known as the Tyuonyi in the caon of the Rito de los -Frijoles[14] should not be missed. It may be reached via Buckman, a -station on the D. & R. G. 12 miles south of Espaola. Thence it is about -15 miles over all sorts of a road to the brink of Frijoles Caon. A -steep foot-trail there leads you down, a thousand feet or more, into the -gorge and after a short walk you are at the comfortable ranch house of -Judge A. G. Abbott, custodian of the Bandelier National Monument, under -which name the neighboring ruins are officially designated by the United -States Government, which owns them.[15] Considered merely as scenery, -the little, secluded caon is one of the loveliest spots in New Mexico, -with its stretches of emerald meadows, its perennial stream and its -peaceful forest of stately pines. But it is the human interest given by -the vacant houses of a forgotten race--the cavate dwellings of the pink -and white tufa cliffs and the ruined communal dwellings on the caon -floor and on the mesa top near by--that brings most visitors. That noted -ethnologist, the late Adolf F. Bandelier, wrote a romance with the scene -laid here and at the Puy. It is entitled "The Delightmakers," and a -reading of it will not only lend a living interest to these places, but -yield a world of information as to the mind and customs of the Pueblo -Indians. Visitors have the School of American Archaeology at Santa Fe to -thank for the painstaking work of excavation extending over years, that -uncovered many of these ancient dwelling places of their centuries of -accumulated debris. - -To return to Espaola. Ten miles to the eastward in the valley of the -Santa Cruz river is the quaint little church of Santuario, a sort of New -Mexican Lourdes, famous these many years for its miraculous cures. A -trip thither makes a noteworthy day's outing. It may be done by -automobile over a road of many tribulations, but a horse and buggy are -more satisfactory and far more in keeping with the primitive country. My -own visit was achieved on foot, eased by a lift of a couple of miles -from a kindly Mexican on horseback, who set me up behind him, _en -ancas_, as they call it. It was mid-August--a season which in northern -New Mexico is as sunshiny and showery as a sublimated Eastern April. The -intense blue of the sky was blotted here and there with piled-up cloud -masses, which broke at times in streamers of rain upon the purple ranges -of the Sangre de Cristo ahead of me--and after that, descending shafts -of light. As soon as I had crossed the Rio Grande and Espaola was -behind me, I was in pure Mexico. The Santa Cruz Valley is an -agricultural region, but it is the agriculture of centuries ago that is -in vogue there. Wheat, for instance, is trodden out by horses, sheep or -goats, on outdoor threshing floors of beaten earth, winnowed by tossing -shovelfuls into the air, washed of its grit and dirt in the nearest -_acquia_, then spread out in the sun to dry, and finally ground in -primitive little log mills whose rumbling stones are turned by tiny -water wheels. Little New Mexican Davids, bare of foot and dreamy-eyed, -loiter along behind their nibbling flocks in the stubble of the shorn -fields or the wild herbage of the river bottom. Peaches and melons, -onions and corn, lie drying on the roofs, and strips of meat hang -"jerking" from stretched lines in the _plazitas_ of the houses. The -cross is still a dominant feature in this land of yesterday. Now it -glitters on the belfry of the family chapel among the trees of some -ranch; now it is outlined against the sky on the crest of a hill, a -_calvario_ of the Penitentes;[16] now it crowns a heap of stones by the -wayside, where a funeral has stopped to rest. - -Of the villages strewn along this delightful way, some are hamlets of -half a dozen straggling little adobes drowsing under their rustling -cottonwoods. Others are more important. One particularly I -remember--Santo Nio. That means "village of the Holy Child," and His -peace that placid morning seemed to rest upon it. The streets were -narrow shady lanes, where irrigation ditches running full made a -murmuring music, flowing now by adobe walls, now by picket fences where -hollyhocks and marigolds and morning-glories looked pleasantly out. It -was a village not of houses merely, but of comfortable old orchards, -too, and riotous gardens where corn and beans, chilis and melons locked -elbows in happy comradery. I think every one I met was Mexican--the -women in sombre black rebosos, the men more or less unkempt and -bandit-appearing in ample-crowned sombreros, yet almost without -exception offering me the courtesy of a raised hand and a _buenos dias, -seor_. Santa Cruz de la Caada--another of these villages--deserves a -special word of mention, for next to Santa Fe it is the oldest -officially established _villa_ (a form of Spanish organized town), in -New Mexico, dating as such from 1695, though in its unincorporated state -antedating the Pueblo Rebellion. Long a place of importance, its ancient -glory paled as Santa Fe and Albuquerque grew. Today it numbers a scant -couple of hundred inhabitants, but it is interesting to the tourist for -its fine old church facing the grassy plaza of the village. The church -interior is enriched with a number of ancient pictures and carvings of -an excellence beyond one's expectations. - -Then there is Chmayo, into which you pass just before crossing the -river to Santuario. To the general public Chmayo appeals because of its -blankets and its apricots, but to me it remains a place of tender memory -because of a certain hospitable _tienda de abarrotes_ (or, as we should -say, grocery store). Entering it in the hope of finding crackers and -cheese, wherewith to make a wayside luncheon, I was given instead a -characteristic Mexican meal as exquisitely cooked as ever I had; yet it -was but a couple of corn tortillas, a bowl of pink beans done to -liquidity, and a cup of black coffee. As to the blankets of Chmayo, -they are woven in sizes from a pillow-cover to a bed-spread, of -Germantown yarn, and you find them on sale everywhere in the curio shops -of the Southwest, competing in a modest way with the Navajo product. The -weaving is a fireside industry, prosecuted in the intervals of other -work both by women and men, and the bump-bump of the primitive looms is -the characteristic melody of the place. - -I had to ford the little river, shoes and stockings in hand, to reach -Santuario, and was not sure when I got there. An old _paisano_, sitting -in the shade of a wall, informed me, however, that the little cluster of -adobes on a hillside, into which I soon came from the river, was really -the place--"of great fame, seor. Here come people of all nations to be -cured--Mexicans, Americans, Apaches--from far, very far." The adobe -church, half hidden behind some huge cottonwoods, was open--of crude -construction without and within, but very picturesque. Passing within -the wooden doors, which are curiously carved with a maze of lettering -that I found it impossible to decipher, I was in a twilight faintly -illumined by the shining of many candles set upon the floor in front of -a gaudy altar. Upon the walls hung beskirted figures of saints in -various colors and wearing tin crowns. There were, too, crude little -shrines upon which pilgrims had scrawled their names. A figure of San -Diego on horseback with a quirt on his wrist, cowboy style, was -particularly lively, I thought. In a room adjoining the altar is a hole -from which pilgrims take handfuls of earth--red adobe, apparently--the -outward instrumentality that is depended upon for the cures. - -The history of this queer chapel is interesting. Long before it was -built the efficacy of that hole of earth was believed far and wide, and -the place resorted to by health seekers. Finally in 1816 a pious -_paisano_ named Bernardo Abeyta, who had prospered greatly in his -affairs, was impelled to erect this church as a testimony of gratitude -to God. Dying he bequeathed it to Doa Carmen Chaves, his daughter, who -kept for all comers the church and its pit of healing, and lived in a -modest way upon the fees which grateful pilgrims bestowed upon her. -After her death, the property descended to her daughter, who maintains -it in the same way. It is said the fame of the spot is known even in old -Mexico, whence pilgrims sometimes come.[17] The earth is utilized either -internally dissolved in water, or outwardly made into a mud wash and -rubbed on the body. The chapel is dedicated to _El Seor de -Esquipulas_--the Christ of Esquipulas--Esquipulas being a little village -of Guatemala whose great church enshrines a famous image of the Lord -believed to perform miraculous cures. - -For a glimpse in small compass of the unsuspected picturesqueness of -rural New Mexico, I know of nothing better than this little jaunt from -Espaola to Santuario. - - NOTE: Horseback tours through the Pecos and Santa Fe National Forests - are practicabilities, with Santa Fe, Espaola or Buckman as a base. - There is a company or two at Santa Fe that make a specialty of - outfitting parties, furnishing riding and pack animals, cooks and all - needful accessories, for a fixed sum. Trout fishing is good in many of - the mountain streams. You may arrange your own itinerary, or if you do - not know what you want, trips will be outlined to suit your particular - interests. In the latter event, a consultation with the Supervisor of - the Santa Fe National Forest, whose office is in Santa Fe, would be - helpful. For people of sound wind who like to see the world from - mountain tops, a trip over the Dalton Trail to the Pecos River and - thence to the Truchas Peaks is repaying. From that elevation of about - 13,000 feet, there is a magnificent outlook over much of New Mexico - and some of Colorado and Arizona. - - - - - CHAPTER III - ROUNDABOUT ALBUQUERQUE - - -Albuquerque is the metropolis and trade heart of central New Mexico, and -the talk of its solid citizens runs naturally on cattle and wool, mines -and lumber, grapes and apples and the agricultural glories of the Rio -Grande valley. The average tourist gives it only the half-hour during -which the train stops there, and remembers it mainly for the noteworthy -Harvey Indian collection at the station (a liberal education, by the -way, in the handicraft of the Southwestern aborigines) and for the -snap-shots he tried to take (and was foiled in) of the picturesque -Pueblo pottery sellers on the platform.[18] In itself, indeed, the busy -little city has not a great deal that is distinctive enough to interest -tourists excepting the Spanish quarter known as Old Albuquerque, on the -outskirts--a picturesque survival of the Hispanic regime. There stands -the old church dedicated to the city's patron saint, San Felipe. As a -base to visit certain other places, however, Albuquerque is very -convenient. For instance, there is the pueblo of Isleta, 12 miles south. - -It is from Isleta that many of the pottery makers come whom you see -offering their wares on the railway platform at Albuquerque, and a -pleasant day may be put in rambling about the streets of the pueblo, -chatting and trafficking with the hospitable people, who are a very -wide-awake, independent sort of Indians. You may go thither by train; or -you may drive (a much better way), following the west bank of the Rio -Grande, and enjoying the beauty of a typical bit of rural New Mexico, -now austere and sun-scorched, now relenting in vineyards, fields of corn -and lush alfalfa, and orchards of apple and peach, sandwiched between -sleepy little Mexican villages smothered in trees and old-fashioned -flowers. Much of New Mexico is as foreign in aspect as Spain, and the -flat-roofed, eaveless ranch houses, low and rambling, with enclosed -plazitas, and high-walled corrals adjoining, into which the teams are -driven at night and the gates shut to the outer world, bring to you the -atmosphere of Don Quixote or Lazarillo de Tormes. Architecturally, -Isleta differs widely from the orthodox pueblo type, its houses being -usually of one story and extended over a liberal area, as must needs be -to shelter its thousand or so of people. They are quite up-to-date -farmers, these Isleteos, and the pueblo is as busy at harvest time as a -beehive, what with fruit drying, corn husking, and alfalfa baling.[19] -Their homes are generally neatly kept, often adorned within with -bright-colored blankets, pretty water ollas, and the whitewashed walls -hung with pictures of Virgin and saints--impressing you as homes of a -thrifty and well-doing race. Indeed these people are reputed the richest -of all the Pueblos. It is, I believe, a matter of record that in 1862, -when a detachment of the United States army was stranded penniless in -New Mexico, an Isleta Indian loaned it $18,000 cash, simply taking the -commander's receipt as evidence. After waiting patiently for twelve -years for the government to have the politeness to return the money -without being asked for it, and hearing nothing, he and the governor of -Isleta, accompanied by the local United States Indian agent, made a trip -to Washington to see about it. Through the personal interest of -President Grant, the money was at last returned. - -On August 28, St. Augustine's Day, occurs the annual public fiesta, with -the usual open air Indian dances after mass in the church. The large -circular _estufa_, or native ceremonial chamber, entered by a ladder let -down through an opening in the roof, is a conspicuous feature of the -pueblo. You will find such places, in one form or another, in all the -Pueblo villages, and in the Cliff Dwellers' towns. They were originally -used as the sleeping apartments of the men. Nowadays the men sleep at -home, but the _estufas_ are still resorted to by them as a sort of -club-room or lounge when religious ceremonies are not going on inside. -Despite membership in the Roman Catholic Church the average Pueblo's -main hold on the unseen that is eternal is through his primitive pagan -faith, whose rites he still practices. Entrance to the _estufas_ is not, -as a rule, readily granted to white people, and should never be -undertaken without permission first obtained. As a matter of fact, there -is on ordinary occasions nothing to see but a dimly lighted chamber with -bare floor and walls, and a small, boxed-in fire-pit near the base of -the ladder. - -To the big old adobe church of Saint Augustine in the center of the -pueblo, there attaches a queer legend sure to delight the traveler whose -interest is less in historical verities than in the fanciful flights of -the human mind. I refer to the tradition of the Rising of Padre -Padilla's Coffin. Among the Franciscan friars who accompanied Coronado -on his famous march to what he called Quivira--the country of the -Wichita Indians in Kansas--was Padre Juan de Padilla. This intrepid -servant of God (when Coronado turned homeward), remained with two lay -brothers on the Kansas plains with the view of Christianizing those -Indians. The outcome of the matter was that he was killed by them on -November 30, 1544. Now tradition has it that somehow in the heavenly -ordering, the body of the martyred padre got miraculously transferred -from Kansas to a place under the church altar at Isleta; and it is -firmly believed (and the belief is backed up by the circumstantial -testimony of solid citizens) that periodically the coffin, which is a -section of a hollowed cottonwood trunk, rises plainly to view in the -church, disclosing to whomsoever may then be present, the padre rather -mummified but still in his black whiskers. To prove it there are people -who will show you bits of his gown nipped off surreptitiously by -eye-witnesses and preserved as precious amulets.[20] - -Northward from Albuquerque for 40 miles, the beautiful valley of the Rio -Grande contains much of appeal to the student of history and of Indian -life. That is the region called in the chronicle of Coronado's -expedition, the Province of Tigex (pronounced _tee-wesh_); and here -that doughty conquistador spent his first New Mexican winter (1540-41) -at a pueblo now vanished, in the neighborhood, it is believed, of the -picturesque town of Bernalillo[21] 17 miles north of Albuquerque. It was -a winter so marked with wanton deeds of deviltry by the soldiery towards -the peaceably disposed natives, that the whole region was soon seething -in revolt--but helpless revolt because of the guns and horses of those -profligate swashbucklers, who disgraced the Christianity they professed. - -Several pueblos are still extant in that stretch. There is Sandia, a -moribund little place 10 miles from Albuquerque, and within walking -distance of Alameda Station on the railway, but hardly worth the trip. -North of Bernalillo a couple of miles is a summer pueblo, Ranchitos de -Santa Ana (the little farms of Santa Ana), occupied during the growing -season by Indians whose home pueblo, Santa Ana, is a dozen miles to the -northwest in a virtual desert overlooking the saline flats of the Jemes -River. Thither they go to dwell in winter and eat up the crops raised in -summer beside the great river. In the same direction 13 miles beyond -Santa Ana (25 from Bernalillo) is the important pueblo of the Jemes -(_Hay'-mes_) Indians, about 500 in number.[22] The village is -beautifully situated at the mouth of San Diego Caon. Its public fiesta -is held on St. James's Day, November 12, and is much attended by -Americans, Mexicans, Pueblos, Navajos and Apaches. The region nearby is -sprinkled with ruins of old pueblos which are the subject of -considerable literature of the antiquarian sort. A capital and reliable -popular article on the Jemes Indians by Mr. A. B. Reagan, appeared in -the April, 1917, issue of "El Palacio," the journal of the -Archaeological Society of New Mexico. A few miles before reaching Jemes -the traveler passes the once powerful, but now small pueblo of Sia -(_See-a_), with a population of barely 100. Its decline is attributed in -part to remorseless inter-killing on suspicion of witchcraft, a sort of -superstition that the Pueblos, unlike ourselves, have not yet outgrown. -Its festival is on August 15, the Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady, -and is attended by many visiting Indians, especially Navajos, who give -it a special tinge of picturesqueness. From Albuquerque Jemes may be -reached directly by auto-mail stage which passes the pueblo and then -proceeds 13 miles further to Jemes Springs postoffice in San Diego -Caon. Near this place are some medicinal springs of local repute--iron, -soda and sulphur--and a modest hotel of the country sort. The stage -leaves Albuquerque daily except Sunday, and if you do not mind a bit of -roughing it, the trip (about 50 miles to Jemes pueblo) will be an -experience to talk about. - -Continuing up the Rio Grande from Bernalillo, you next come (10 miles -from Bernalillo, or 3 from Algodones Station on the Santa Fe) to the -pueblo of San Felipe at the foot of a long, black, treeless mesa on the -west bank of the river. Its fine, white Mission church, dating back some -200 years, is a prominent sight from the car windows of Santa Fe trains. -The ruins of a previous church and pueblo of the San Felipeos are -visible on the summit of the mesa, and a climb to them will reward you, -at least with a fine view of the Rio Grande valley. San Felipe's -principal public fiesta is held May 1. - -Another dozen miles up the river--but now on the east side--is the -pueblo of Santo Domingo, whose 800 Indians are about the most -set-in-their-ways of any in New Mexico. This conservatism serves, -however, to make their Green Corn Dance (held on August 4, the feast day -of their patron Saint Dominic), of especial worth, because the ceremony -has been comparatively little debased by the hybrid innovations which -are spoiling many of the native rites of the Pueblos. There are some -preliminary ceremonies the afternoon before, which it is interesting to -view. The pueblo is easily reached, as it is but a couple of miles from -Domingo station on the Santa Fe railway. The visitor is forewarned that -there is a particularly strong objection at Santo Domingo to -picture-taking and cameras are blacklisted. Even artists of the brush -have been ejected from the village. In passing, it should be stated that -the dances of the Pueblos are not jollifications as among white people, -but religious ceremonials--expressions of thanksgiving to their supernal -protectors for blessings received and prayers for favors to come, as -rain and bountiful crops. Santo Domingo is famous for its beautiful -pottery--a heavy ware, but remarkable for an almost Greek grace of form, -adorned with geometric designs in black on pink or creamy white. - -Still ascending the Rio Grande, you reach (by a pleasant drive of 10 -miles from Domingo Station) the pueblo of Cochit (_co-chee-te_), where -the ethnologist Bandelier once lived for a time, and studied the race he -came to know so well. It has more the appearance of a Mexican village -than of an Indian pueblo, for the houses are generally of one story and -detached one from another. The people, too (there are about 250), seem -more or less Mexicanized, but are hospitable and good-natured. The local -tradition is that it was the ancestors of the Cochiteos who occupied -the cliff dwellings of the Rito de los Frijoles. One who is robust -enough for horseback tours may secure a guide at Cochit and ascend to -that wild and beautiful region by immemorial trails through a rugged -mountain country dotted with ruins of several former homes and shrines -of the Cochit people, who in prehistoric times seem to have been -confirmed wanderers. The principal public fiesta at this pueblo occurs -on July 14, Saint Bonaventure's Day, and is well worth attending, though -I know of no especial features distinguishing it. Pottery is made here, -too--some of it of a queer type running to animal forms, corpulent and -impossible. Both Cochit and Santo Domingo may be readily visited in one -day, if arrangements are made in advance through the Santa Fe agent at -Domingo. They are equally easy of access from Santa Fe and Albuquerque. - - - - - CHAPTER IV - THE DEAD CITIES OF THE SALINES - - -Southeasterly from Albuquerque some 20 miles the Manzano Mountains lift -their piny crests and drift southward to the Gallinas. From their feet -eastward stretches the wide treeless Estancia Valley, and in the lap of -it lies a noteworthy cluster of saline ponds and lagoons, whose bitter -waters, shining in the blistering sun, are a mockery to the thirsty. -These are "the accursed lakes"[23] of Pueblo tradition--originally fresh -and abounding in fish, they say, but now lifeless and undrinkable, -cursed of the ancient gods because of the sinfulness of a witch who -dwelt there once. If you would know how this change came about, you -should read the tale called "The Accursed Lake" in Mr. Charles F. -Lummis's delightful book "Pueblo Indian Folk Stories." These lakes are -all heavily alkaline except one and that is saline--a source of salt -from time immemorial to the Indians of the pueblos. Coming from near and -far, they would plant their prayer plumes by its white margin and -sprinkle its waves with sacred meal in recognition of the divine -largesse they were about to receive. For the Indian tradition is that -this lake was the abode of a divinity whom they called Salt Old Woman or -Salt Mother, and the salt was her free gift to men. She is -circumstantially described as wearing white boots and a white cotton -dress, and carrying in her hand a white abalone shell, which was so soft -and pliable that she could fold it like a handkerchief.[24] It is said -the salt of this lake has found its way through barter to Parral in Old -Mexico. - -To the tourist the attraction in the Estancia Valley is the presence of -some quaint old plaza villages dating from the days of the Spanish -occupation, and certain imposing ruins of Franciscan Mission churches of -seventeenth century construction standing in the midst of crumbled -Pueblo towns. These are not in the open valley but in the foothills of -the Manzanos and the Gallinas, and are easily visited from Mountainair, -an American town on the "Beln Cut-off" of the Santa Fe Railway. Here is -a small hotel, and automobiles may be hired. - -The most famous of the ruins is the Gran Quivira at the edge of the -Gallinas foothills, 24 miles south of Mountainair. They are the remains -of a large pueblo of low, stone houses, covering altogether about 80 -acres and once housing perhaps a couple of thousand souls. There are the -ruins of several _estufas_, of irrigation works, and of two Christian -churches. The pueblo occupies the narrow crest of a ridge overlooking a -vast, lonely, cedar- and pion-dotted plain that reaches to far-off, -dreamy mountain ranges. It is in a solitude of solitudes wrapped in the -silence of death, and as almost everywhere in the plateau region of -northern New Mexico and Arizona, one has the feeling of being alone on -the roof of the world, though the elevation here is really but 6800 -feet. The most conspicuous feature of this shattered town is the larger -of the two churches whose gaunt, gray, roofless walls of flat limestone -pieces laid in mortar and rising to a height of 30 feet, are visible to -the traveler long before he reaches the place. Seen "from the northeast, -through vistas of cedars and junipers," to quote Bandelier, "the ruins -shine in pallid light like some phantom city of the desert." Adjoining -the church, are the ruins of a _convento_ of several small rooms and a -refectory, built about an interior courtyard. The whole has an -unfinished appearance, and Bandelier believed that work on the building -was suddenly interrupted and never resumed. - -Indeed, the whole place is shrouded in mystery--its beginning and its -end are alike in the twilight. No record has been left by the old -chroniclers of any mission called Gran Quivira; but there is frequent -mention by them of Tabir, whose location fairly corresponds to this. -That was a town of the Piro Pueblos, where an important Mission was -established about 1630 by Padre Francisco de Acevedo. It ceased to be -heard of after half a century, and it is believed that repeated raids of -the barbarous Apaches--the red terror of the peacable Pueblos--caused -the abandonment of the village. In all human probability that Tabir is -this Gran Quivira, but how the latter name became attached to these -ruins has never been satisfactorily explained; for, as has already been -stated, Quivira was Coronado's name for the country of the Wichitas, far -away in Kansas. The Piro people, who are believed to have inhabitated -this pueblo (and that of Ab, of which something shortly), are about as -extinct as their towns. Only an insignificant remnant, and these -speaking an alien tongue, exist today, in the Mexican State of -Chihuahua. - -The hill which the Gran Quivira ruins occupy is of limestone, and -underlaid, as limestone hills often are, with hollownesses that give -back in places an audible echo to one's footfalls. Popular fancy has -been caught by these givings-off of the underworld, and all sorts of -fables have attached themselves to this desolate place. These have -mostly to do with buried treasure. It has been thought, for instance, -that here in the caverns of this hill is really the store of gold and -jewels, the hope of which, like a will-of-the-wisp, lured Coronado on -and ever on, to disappointment and a broken heart. Another tradition -(quoted by Mr. Paul A. F. Walter, in "The Cities That Died of Fear"[25]) -tells of a hidden cave in the hill where the last Piros are said to have -retreated with their belongings, including vast treasure brought from -Mexico by the Franciscan Fathers,[26] and that an earthquake sealed them -and their treasure up together. Of course, such stories have brought -hither innumerable treasure seekers, who for years have gophered the -hill industriously but have got nothing but sore muscles, arrowheads, -and broken pottery. The most picturesque of these delvers was a blind -woman, a Mrs. Clara Corbyn, who acquired homestead rights on the north -end of Gran Quivira. Lacking the wherewithal to finance excavations, she -traveled the country over from the Pacific to the Atlantic, endeavoring -to procure money backing for her scheme, and to that end even wrote a -musical romance, which she called "La Gran Quivira." Failing, she died -not long ago in Los Angeles--of a broken heart, it is said--and the -Museum of New Mexico eventually secured her homestead interest.[27] The -major portion of these ruins belongs to the United States, forming the -Gran Quivira National Monument. - -Ab, that other dead pueblo of the Piros, is about 12 miles southwest of -Mountainair, or 4 miles west of Ab station on the Santa Fe Railway. -Gran Quivira you see on its hilltop for miles before you reach it, but -of Ab your first view comes with the shock of an unexpected delight. -Your car climbs a hill through a bit of wooded wilderness, and, the -crest attained, there flashes on your sight from below, an exquisite -little sunlit valley. In the midst of it is a hillock, and on and about -this is scattered the desolated, roofless pueblo with its noble church, -ruined too, of San Gregorio de Ab. A thread of living water--the Arroyo -de Ab--cuts its way through the valley which is bounded on the west by -the lovely chain of the Manzanos. Unfortunately, the ruin of the old -church still goes on--the decay hastened, I believe, by the fact that -latter-day settlers have borne off much of its stone and timber for -their private use. As it now stands, the high, jagged walls of the -building resemble as much as anything a gigantic broken tooth, and -standing in this solitary place are picturesque to a degree. The -material is red sandstone and the edifice dates from about 1630--the -founder being the same Padre de Acevedo that is credited with -establishing Gran Quivira. He died here at Ab, and was buried in the -church on August 1, 1644. This pueblo, like Gran Quivira, is believed to -have been abandoned because of Apache raids, and was extinct before the -great rebellion of 1680.[28] - -A few miles from the old pueblo, and close to the railway line there are -some low cliffs, forming one side of a gorge once called _El Caon de la -Pintada_, or the Painted Rocks of Ab Caon. This spot is a sort of -aboriginal picture gallery worth a visit by the curious in such matters. -The sheltered places on the cliff-face are adorned for a considerable -distance with drawings of evident antiquity in various colors--yellow, -green, red, white. They are mostly representative of human figures, one -or two apparently of the clowns who play prankish parts in many of the -present-day Pueblo ceremonies. Others are symbols that still survive in -the religious rites of the Pueblos. - -Eight miles northwest of Mountainair (and a little more due north of -Ab) is Quara, another forsaken pueblo, the ruins of whose fine old -Mission church may be seen a mile away. My own first view of it was -dramatic enough, the red, sandstone walls 20 feet high or more, gaunt -and jagged, silhouetted sharply against a sky black with storm clouds -whence rain banners wavered downward, and athwart them now and then -forked lightnings shot and spit. Quara was a walled town, and some -excavation work, done recently by the Santa Fe archaeologists, has -brought to light among other things the remains of a round community -building resembling the Tyuonyi in the Caon Rito de los Frijoles.[29] -Close at hand is a cottonwood grove refreshed by an abundant spring, a -favorite picnic ground for the country folk roundabout. Other ruins in -the vicinity and signs of ancient fields here and there indicate that -Quara was a place of importance in its day, and doubtless for a long -time before the Spanish occupation. Its church is believed to have been -built about 1628 and was dedicated to La Inmaculada Concepcion. This was -the Mission of that Padre de la Llana whose remains, after much travel, -are now at rest beneath the altar in the Cathedral at Santa Fe. - -About 7 miles northward from Quara, nestling at the foot of Manzano -Peak,[30] is an excellent example of the old-fashioned plaza village, -called Manzano, which is Spanish for apple tree. The reason for the name -is the presence there of a couple of ancient apple orchards, which are -believed to date back to the time of the Franciscan Missions, and -doubtless were set out by the Fathers of Quara, some 250 years ago. The -village is of the typical adobe architecture of New Mexico, and though -not so old as it looks, having been settled about 1825, it is very -foreign of aspect. With its plaza, its old-fashioned flowers in the -gardens, its houses massed one above another on the side of a hill that -is topped by a great wooden cross, its murmurous _acquia_, and its fine -old Spanish _torreon_ or tower of defense, Manzano holds features of -picturesqueness enough to be worth a trip in itself. A unique feature of -the place is the Manzano Lake which occupies a depression in the midst -of the village--a charming sheet of water, beautiful and fragrant in -season with water lilies. The source of the Lake is a magnificent spring -hardby. To reach it, one climbs the hillside a quarter-mile or so, and -then descends into a shaded hollow, where the cool water gushes up into -a colossal bowl, and brimming over quickly sinks into the ground to -re-appear below and form the village lake. The spring is locally known -as _El Ojo del Gigante_--the Giant's Eye--and is famed throughout the -State as a very marvel among springs. - -If one have time and inclination, the Estancia Valley, its lakes and -ruins and Mexican villages may be made the objective of a trip by -automobile from Santa Fe or Albuquerque. The roads in good weather are -fair, as unimproved roads go, and in the mountain part pass through a -wooded region of much loveliness--sunny park-like forests of pine and -oak, with numerous rivulets and charming wild gardens. From Albuquerque -to Mountainair by this route is about 75 miles. - - - - - CHAPTER V - OF ACOMA, CITY OF THE MARVELLOUS ROCK, AND LAGUNA - - -The oldest occupied town in the United States, and in point of situation -perhaps the most poetic, is Acoma (_ah'co-ma_), occupying the flat -summit of a huge rock mass whose perpendicular sides rise 350 feet out -of a solitary New Mexican plain.[31] It is situated 15 miles southwest -of the Santa Fe Railway station of Laguna, where modest accommodations -are provided for travelers who stop over. The inhabitants of Acoma, -numbering about 700, are Pueblo Indians, whose ancestors founded this -rockborne town before the white history of the Southwest began. Coronado -found it here in 1540. _El Peol Maravilloso_--the Rock Marvellous--the -old chroniclers called it. "A city the strangest and strongest," says -Padre Benavides, writing of it in 1630, "that there can be in the -world." - -They will take you from Laguna to Acoma in an automobile over a road, -little better than a trail, whose traversability depends more or less on -weather conditions not only that day, but the day before.[32] It winds -through a characteristic bit of central New Mexico landscape, breezy, -sunlit and long-vistaed, treeless save for scattering pion and juniper. -Wild flowers bespangle the ground in season; and mountains--red, purple, -amethystine, weather-worn into a hundred fantastic shapes--rise to view -on every hand. In July and August the afternoon sky customarily becomes -massed with cloud clusters, and local showers descend in long, wavering -bands of darkness--here one, there another. Traveling yourself in -sunshine beneath an island of clear turquoise in such a stormy sky, you -may count at one time eight or ten of these picturesque streamers of -rain on the horizon circle. Jagged lightnings play in one quarter of the -heavens while broken rainbows illumine others. Nowhere else in our -country is the sky so very much alive as in New Mexico and Arizona in -summer. Nowhere else, I think, as in this land of fantastic rock forms, -of deep blue skies, and of wide, golden, sunlit plains, do you feel so -much like an enchanted traveler in a Maxfield Parrish picture. - -Though the cliffs of Acoma are visible for several miles before you -reach the Rock, you are almost at its base before you distinguish any -sign of the village--the color of its terraced houses being much the -same as that of the mesa upon which they are set. The soft rocky faces -have been cut into grotesque shapes by the sand of the plain which the -winds of ages have been picking up and hurling against them. There are -strange helmeted columns, slender minarets and spires that some day -perhaps a tempest will snap in two, dark, cool caverns which your fancy -pictures as dens of those ogreish divinities you have read of Indians' -believing in. - -Your first adventure at Acoma--and it is a joyous one--is climbing the -Rock to the village on top. There are several trails. One is broad and -easy, whereby the Pueblo flocks come up from the plains to be folded for -the night, and men ahorseback travel. Shorter is the one your Indian -guide will take you, by a gradual sandy ascent, to the base of the -cliff. There you are face to face with a crevice up which you ascend by -an all but perpendicular aboriginal stairway of stone blocks and -boulders piled upward in the crack. Handholes cut in the rock wall -support you over ticklish places, until finally you clamber out upon the -flat summit. In Coronado's time you would have been confronted there by -a wall of loose stones which the Acomas had built to roll down on the -heads of the unwelcome. Today, instead, the visitor is apt to be greeted -by an official of the pueblo exacting a head-tax of a dollar for the -privilege of seeing the town, and picture-taking extra! - -I think this precipitous trail is the one known as _El Camino del Padre_ -(the Father's Way), which is associated with a pretty bit of history. -The first permanent Christian missionary at Acoma was the Franciscan -Juan Ramirez. Now the Acomas had never been friendly to the Spaniards, -and it was only after a three days' hard battle in 1599, resulting in -the capture and burning of the town by the Spaniards, that the Indians -accepted vassalage to that inexplicable king beyond the sea.[33] -Naturally, no friendly feeling was engendered by this episode; so when -this Padre Ramirez, years afterward, was seen approaching the Rock one -day--it was in 1629--quite alone and unarmed save with cross and -breviary (having walked all the way from Santa Fe, a matter of 175 -miles) the Acomas decided to make short work of him. The unsuspecting -father started briskly up the rocky stairway, and when he came within -easy range, the watching Indians shot their arrows at him. Then a -remarkable thing happened. A little girl, one of a group looking over -the edge of the precipice, lost her balance and fell out of sight -apparently to her death. A few minutes later, the undaunted padre whom -the shelter of the cliff had saved from the arrows, appeared at the head -of the trail holding in his arms the little child smiling and quite -unharmed. Unseen by the Indians, she had lit on a shelving bit of rock -from which the priest had tenderly lifted her. So obvious a miracle -completely changed the Indians' feelings towards the long-gowned -stranger, and he remained for many years, teaching his dusky wards -Spanish and so much of Christian doctrine as they would assimilate. It -was this Fray Juan Ramirez, it is said, who had built the animal trail -which has been mentioned. - -[Illustration] - - AN ACOMA INDIAN DANCE - - The dances of the Pueblo Indians are not social diversions but - serious religious ceremonies. - -[Illustration] - - LAGUNA, THE MOTHER PUEBLO OF SEVEN - - This pueblo, languishing while neighboring Acoma flourished, - borrowed the latter's picture of St. Joseph to change her fortune, - prospered accordingly, and then refused to return the picture, thus - precipitating a lawsuit unique in our annals. - -Most visitors spend a couple of hours at Acoma, and return the same day -to the railroad. This, at a pinch, suffices for a ramble about the -streets, and for looking into doorways for glimpses of the primitive -family life, chaffering with the women for the pretty pottery for which -Acoma is famed,[34] and for a visit to the natural rock cisterns whence -girls are continually coming with dripping ollas balanced on their -heads. And of course, there is the old adobe church with its balconied -_convento_, to be seen. It dates from about 1700. As the Rock was bare -of building material, this had all to be brought up from below on the -backs of Indian neophytes--the timbers from the mountains 20 miles away. -The graveyard is a remarkable piece of work founded on the sloping rock -by building retaining walls of stone (40 feet high, at the outer end) -and filling in with sandy earth lugged patiently up from the plain. - -A conspicuous feature in the view from the Rock of Acoma is a solitary -mesa or rock-table, 3 miles to the northward, which the Acomas call -Katzmo, and the Spaniards named _La Mesa Encantada_ (the Enchanted -Mesa). Its flat top is 430 perpendicular feet above the plain, and can -now be reached only with scaling ladders and ropes. Formerly there was a -single trail up the side. The Indian tradition is that long, long ago, -before the coming of the white invaders, the village of the Acomas -occupied the summit. One day, while all the population except a few old -people were working in the fields below, a tempest completely swept away -the upper part of the trail; so that the inhabitants could never again -reach their homes. They began life over again by building a new pueblo -on the Rock of Acoma.[35] - -The annual public fiesta of Acoma is held September 2, the day of San -Estban Rey--that is, of St. Stephen the King, Acoma's patron saint and -Hungary's. It is attended by a picturesque crowd of Mexicans, Navajos -and Pueblos, besides a sprinkling of Americans. Among the visitors are -thrifty Isleteos, their farm wagons loaded with melons, grapes and -peaches for sale and barter. As on all such occasions in the Rio Grande -pueblos, there is first a great clanging of the church bells to get the -people to mass; after which, the saint's statue beneath a canopy is -brought out from the church, and all the people march in procession -behind it, the cross, and the padre, while to the accompaniment of a -solemn chant the firing of guns and a wild clamor of discordant church -bells, the image is carried to a booth of green boughs in the plaza, -there to rest and receive the homage of the people. Throughout the day -baskets heaped with fruit, loaves of bread, vegetables and candles are -laid at the saint's feet, and at intervals the edibles are handed out to -the crowd, or tossed in the air to be scrambled for amid much hilarity. -In the afternoon there is an Indian dance, participated in by men and -women in colorful costumes, the women's heads adorned with _tablitas_ -(curious, painted boards set upright and cut into shapes symbolic of -clouds and what not). A choir of men with a drum made of a section of -cottonwood log, supplies the music, chanting in unison the ancient songs -of thanksgiving efficacious long before St. Stephen was ever heard of in -Acoma, and not to be lightly abandoned. At sundown the saint is returned -to his place in the church, and the evening is given over to such -jollity as personal fancy dictates, usually including a _baile_, or -dance, by the Mexicans and such white folk as stay, and it must be -confessed, too often a surreptitious bout with John Barleycorn smuggled -in by bootleggers. - -There are no accommodations for visitors at Acoma, but if you have a -taste for mild adventure you will enjoy--in retrospect anyhow--lodging a -night or two with some family in the village, if you have brought your -own provisions. This gives you a leisurely opportunity to watch the -people at their daily tasks, and to enjoy the exquisite outlook at -evening and early morning from the Rock. A night on an Acoma housetop -beneath the brilliant stars is like being transported to Syria. Take it -as a rule that if you desire to learn anything worth while of Indian -life, you must abandon hurry; and the more you pump an Indian, the less -he will tell you. The best things in the Southwest come to the waiting -traveler, not to the hustler. As to the language, in every pueblo there -is someone who talks English enough to act as interpreter, but if you -know a little Spanish, you may do without any intermediary in the Rio -Grande villages. - -The natural pendant to a visit to Acoma is one to Laguna pueblo, 2 miles -from the station of the same name.[36] Like Acoma, it is built upon a -rock, but Laguna's is merely a low outcropping little above the level of -the ground. The pueblo is full of picturesque bits, and the fall and -rise of the streets continually give you skyey silhouettes, the delight -of artists who like liberal foregrounds. The mature coloring of the -houses in time-mellowed, pearly tones, coupled with the fact that the -old trail leading from the outskirts of the pueblo to the spring is worn -deep in the rock floor by the wear of generations of moccasined feet, -gives one the impression that Laguna is of great antiquity. -Nevertheless, it is not, having been founded about 1697. In 1699 it -received its name San Jos de la Laguna--Saint Joseph of the Lake--the -appropriateness of which is not now apparent as there is no lake there. -In those days, however, there was a lagoon nearby, due largely to the -damming of the little River San Jos by beavers. English is very -generally spoken in this pueblo. - -Some 60 years ago Laguna was the defendant in a curious lawsuit brought -against it by Acoma. Fray Juan Ramirez--he of the _Camino del -Padre_--had put Acoma under the patronage of Saint Joseph, spouse of Our -Lady and patron of the Church Universal, and in the Acoma church the -saint's picture hung for many years, a source of local blessing as the -Acomas firmly believed. Now while Acoma prospered Laguna had many -misfortunes--crop failures, sickness and so on; and with a view to -bettering matters Laguna asked Acoma for the loan of Saint Joseph. This -request was granted with the understanding that the loan should be for -one month only. But alas, recreant Laguna, once in possession, refused -to give back the picture, which was proving as "good medicine" there as -had been the case at Acoma. At last the padre was called on to settle -the dispute and he suggested that lots be drawn for it. This was done -and the picture fell to Acoma. The Lagunas proved poor losers, however, -and made off with the painting by force--which enraged the Acomas to the -fighting point, and war was only averted by the padre's persuading them -to do what a Pueblo Indian is very loth to do, submit the case to the -white man's courts. Lawyers were engaged by both pueblos, and after a -hot wrangle involving an appeal to the Supreme Court of New Mexico, the -picture was awarded to Acoma. Evidently the saint himself approved the -judgment, for tradition has it that when the Acoma delegation appointed -to fetch the picture back were half way to Laguna, their astonished eyes -were greeted by the sight of it reposing under a mesquite bush. -Evidently, upon receipt of the news, it had set out of its own accord -for home! - -In proof of which the traveler today may see the painting in the old -church at Acoma.[37] - -Laguna's principal public fiesta is held annually on September 18, and -adds to the usual ceremonies of the saint's day at a pueblo the features -of a country fair, for the Lagunas are notable agriculturists. The -Mission church interior at Laguna, by the way, possesses features of -interest in the way of Indian decoration and ancient Spanish paintings, -particularly those of the altar done on stretched hide. Visitors may be -accommodated in Indian houses, if they court that experience, or at the -residence of a Protestant missionary near by. The National Old Trails -transcontinental highway passes the pueblo. - - - - - CHAPTER VI - TO ZUI, THE CENTER OF THE EARTH, VIA GALLUP - - -Gallup, New Mexico, has never made much of a stir as a tourist center, -but like many a spot of modest pretensions, it is deserving beyond its -gettings. As an example of the "city beautiful" it is not, in my -judgment, a success; but as a base and a fitting-out point for some of -the most interesting parts of the Southwest, it is to be heartily -commended.[38] Particularly is this so now that the motor car has so -largely supplanted the horse-drawn vehicle for excursions afield. There -are comfortable hotel accommodations and there are Harvey meals -obtainable. - -[Illustration] - - BEAD MAKER, ZUI PUEBLO - - Necklaces of flat, round beads made from sea shells form a common - adornment of Pueblo Indians. - -[Illustration] - - A STREET IN ACOMA PUEBLO - - The ladders afford means of access to the upper stories. - -From Gallup (which is on one of the main automobile routes followed by -transcontinental motorists) good trips radiate in many directions--85 -miles to Caon de Chelly, for instance, and its cliff dwellings amidst -surpassing scenery; 75 miles to the Pueblo Bonito ruins in Chaco Caon; -125 miles to the Hopi country; 42 miles to Zui pueblo; 75 miles to -Inscription Rock of the Conquistadores. The great Navajo reservation -with its picturesque aboriginal life reaches almost to Gallup's back -door, and even the Mesa Verde National Park,[39] can be done from Gallup -in 4 or 5 days for the round trip, if the weather conditions are right. - -This chapter has to do with the famous Indian pueblo of Zui, which lies -to the south, about 2 hours by motor car. The road is all sorts from a -motorist's standpoint; so be your own best friend and take it -good-naturedly, for fussing will not mend it. In a few minutes you are -beyond sight of houses and railroads, and in a twinkling Time's clock -has whirled back a couple of centuries. You pass, perhaps, a Navajo -woman astride her pony, a sheepskin or two tied to the saddle, on her -way to the trader's for coffee and tobacco; and then a Mexican teamster -crouching over a bit of camp-fire where his chili and beans are stewing, -his wagon piled high with wool sacks drawn up by the roadside. Now a -solitary adobe ranch house, or a lone trader's log hut is seen in a -wilderness of sagey plain; and now a flock of sheep drift into the road -out of the pion- and cedar-scrub, a couple of bright-eyed Navajo -children shepherding in their wake. By and by you pass another sort of -Indian on horseback, a slightly built man with long jet-black hair -lifted by the breeze, a red _banda_ encircling it--he is a Zui. And -then topping a low hill, you are greeted by the distant sight of a long -flat-topped mesa, creamy pink against a blue sky. It is Towa-ylleni, -Zui's Mountain of the Sacred Corn. A turn in the road, and the great -yellow plain of Zui spreads out before you, the Zui River threading -its midst, and on its bank the old pueblo humps itself like a huge -anthill, hardly distinguishable in color from the plain itself. - -Zui (with a population of some 1600) is historically perhaps the most -interesting of all the Pueblo towns, for it is the present-day -representative of those Seven Cities of Cbola, the fable of whose -wealth led to the discovery of New Mexico in the sixteenth century. -There really were seven Zui villages in Coronado's time, all of which -have long since disappeared, though sites of at least five are known. -The present Zui pueblo seems to have been built about the year 1700, -replacing that one of the ancient seven known as Hlona. This occupied -the opposite or south bank of the river in Coronado's time--a spot now -partially covered by the buildings of a white trader. - -If you are going to hold your car and return to Gallup the same day, -there will probably be 3 or 4 hours available for a stroll about the -pueblo. The houses, of a characteristic reddish tone, rise from -one-storied structures on the outskirts to 5 stories at the center of -the town, and you will enjoy mounting by ladders and stepping stones to -that uppermost height for the lovely view over the plain to the -mountains that hem in the Zui valley. The narrow streets without -sidewalks open out now and then into small plazas, and some communicate -with one another by tunnels. Beehive ovens squat upon the roofs in -dome-like fashion and contribute a suggestion of the Orient--of Cairo or -Syria. Dogs, turkeys, pigs and burros have equal right with humanity in -the cramped thoroughfares, and if one is of a cleanly habit, one needs -to watch one's steps. But dirt and picturesqueness were ever comrades, -and Zui is truly picturesque. From the open door issues the hum of the -busy mealing stones, and the fragrance of the crushed corn; perhaps, -too, to your ravished ears, the high-keyed melody of grinding songs -shrilled by the women as they work. - -Look in, and if your manner is respectful and the girls not over shy, -you will be allowed the enjoyment of a charming picture of kneeling, -swaying bodies and of down-turned faces veiled in falling hair. Ollas of -native ware stand about with water; parti-colored blankets of Navajo or -Zui weave hanging from wall or ceiling give a touch of brightness in -the dim light of the room; in the triangular corner fireplace dinner -simmers within a bowl of native pottery set upon the coals. If fortune -favors you there may be a potter at her moulding, or, in the street, -jars being fired or bread being put to bake in the adobe ovens; or in -some plaza a ceremonial dance in costume may be in progress. Zui is -still comfortably pagan--the ancient Catholic church is a ruin and the -modern Protestant mission is by no means overworked--and throughout the -year the red gods of Zui have homage paid them in many a ceremony rich -in symbolism and pure beauty.[40] - -On the outskirts of the pueblo in August, one may have a sight of wheat -thrashing on the open-air thrashing floors, the grain being trodden out -in oriental fashion by horses, sheep or goats. Or there may be a -straight-away horse race over the plain with a picturesque crowd looking -on; or a _gallo_ race, the part of the rooster (_gallo_) humanely taken -in these latter days by a sack buried to the neck in the sand. A quieter -feature of interest is the quaint little vegetable gardens on a slope by -the river--each tiny garden enclosed with a thin adobe wall. These are -tended by the women who daily bring water in ollas and pails to irrigate -the plants. - -[Illustration] - - OLD CHURCH, ACOMA PUEBLO - - Dating from about 1700. Tradition has it that it was 40 years in - building. All material was carried up on Indians' backs from the - plain 350 feet below, by an almost precipitous trail. - -[Illustration] - - A SUNNY WALL IN ZUI - - The men of Zui are famous knitters. This one is making his wife a - pair of leggings. - -A short walk from the pueblo brings you to Hepatina (_hay'-pa-tee-na_) a -stone shrine erected on the plain, which in the Zui conception, marks -the center of the earth; for the unreconstructed Zui believes naturally -enough, just as your and my ancestors did a few centuries ago, that the -earth is flat. Hither in the days of long ago, a guardian divinity of -the Zuis brought them as to the safest place in the world--the farthest -from the edge--preceding them in the form of a water strider. The -double-barred cross, which you will see sometimes on Zui pottery, or -fashioned in silver, is the symbol of that divine guide. There has been, -by the way, some good pottery made at Zui, and the visitor interested -in that art may still enjoy the adventure of a house-to-house ceramic -hunt with chances of a pleasurable outcome. - -The accommodations for visitors in the pueblo are very limited. Perhaps -one of the couple of white resident traders or the school teacher may be -complaisant enough to take you in; and there are certain Indian houses -where lodging can surely be had. If you are not of a meticulous sort, I -would recommend a stop-over long enough at least to visit the mesa -Towa-ylleni, which Cushing has put into literature as Thunder Mountain. -It looks near the pueblo, but is really 4 miles distant. On its summit -centuries ago there was a pueblo of the Zuis, the broken down walls of -which, overrun with cactus and brush, are still quite evident. Curious -pictographs of the ancients may be traced on many a rock; and if one -knows where to look, there are pagan shrines where prayer plumes are yet -offered to the Divine Ones. Among such are those of the Twin War Gods, -whose home is believed to have been on Towa-ylleni--"little fellows -that never give up." I was once informed by a Zui, "gone away now may -be gone up, may be gone down; _quien sabe_?"[41] It was on this mountain -the Zuis found a refuge after their losing fight with Coronado in 1540; -and again in 1632 they retreated hither after killing their missionary, -Padre Letrado, of whom we shall hear again at Inscription Rock in the -next chapter. And here they were in 1692 when De Vargas forced their -surrender in the re-conquest. Tradition has it, too, that here long, -long ago, the people fled for safety when an offended deity flooded them -out of their villages in the plain; and the water still rising, a -desperate sacrifice was called for. A boy and a girl were tossed from -the summit into the angry flood. In a twinkling, the children were -transformed into pinnacles of rock and the waters sank appeased. You can -see these spires of stone today from Zui, and old people will tell you -that the one with a double point is the boy. A peculiar virtue resides -in that petrified humanity it seems. If a childless couple resort to the -base of the pinnacles and there plant prayer plumes, there will be -granted to them the children of their desire. - -There are trails, steep and rough, up Towa-ylleni's sides, and if you -can make the trip with an intelligent and communicative old Zui (most -of the young ones seem to know or care little about the ancient things), -you will have a remarkable outing. An hour or two spent on that lonely -breeze-swept, sun-kissed mesa-top, with the ruined town, its broken -shrines, its historic and legendary memories, will induct you, as no -amount of reading will, into the atmosphere of the Southwest's romantic -past. There used to be--and for all I know still is--a trail that a -rider on horseback can follow, at the northeastern side of the mesa. The -ancient peach orchard through which it wound owes its existence to seed -brought to Zui by the Spaniards. - - NOTE: Five miles northeast of Zui, is Black Rock, where travelers - with an interest in Government education of the Indians may see a - Reservation School in operation. Within a radius of 15 or 20 miles of - the main pueblo are 3 farming villages occupied in summer by Zuis to - be near certain tracts of tillable land. One of these, Ojo Caliente, - 15 miles southwest of Zui, is close to the site of ancient - Hwikuh--the first Pueblo town seen by white men. Upon it in 1539, - intrepid Fray Marcos de Niza looked down from a nearby height, and - then, warned by the murder of his avant-courier, the negro Estvanico, - beat a prudent retreat to Mexico. Coronado captured the place in the - following year, and thence made his first report of the famous 7 - cities to the viceroy in Mexico. It is the scene of one of the most - charming of Cushing's Zui folk tales, "The Foster Child of the Deer." - Extensive excavations have recently been made there by Government - ethnologists. - - - - - CHAPTER VII - EL MORRO, THE AUTOGRAPH ROCK OF THE CONQUISTADORES - - -Thirty-five miles eastward from Zui (2 hours by automobile, if the -roads are dry) is a huge rock mass of pale pink sandstone whose sides -rise sheer a couple of hundred feet against a turquoise sky. It stands -in the midst of a lonely plain whose wild grasses are nibbled by the -passing flocks of wandering Navajos, and so far as I know, there is no -nearer human habitation than the little Mormon settlement of Ramah, -through which you pass to reach the rock. This cliff has a story to tell -of such unique interest that the United States Government has acquired -the mesa of which it is a spur for a National Monument. It is known as -Inscription Rock, or El Morro (the latter a not uncommon -Spanish-American designation for a bold promontory), and was a landmark -as early as the sixteenth century for the Spanish expeditions bound -between Santa Fe, Acoma and Zui. Water, feed, and wood were here -available, as they are today, making the foot of the high cliff a good -camping place, and here as a matter of fact during the sixteenth, -seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries, many a Spanish military party did -camp, and having rested themselves and their cattle, went on refreshed -to do the errands of their King and Church. - -And hither one day in 1849, just after New Mexico had become part of the -United States, came Lieut. J. H. Simpson, U. S. A., with some troopers -on a military reconnaissance, and discovered that the base of the cliff -was a veritable album of those old Conquistadores; bearing not only the -names of the Spanish explorers but frequently an accompaniment of date -and comment that form important contributory evidence touching the early -history of the Southwest. Simpson made copies of a number of the -inscriptions, and these were published with translations (not always -accurate) in his report to the Secretary of War.[42] Most of those -recordings carved in the soft rock with sword or dagger point are still -fresh and legible, so little have centuries of dry New Mexico weather -worn the clear-cut lettering. If you go to see them, you will be a -dry-as-dust indeed if you do not feel an odd sort of thrill as you put -your finger tips upon the chiseled autographs of the men who won for -Spain an empire and held it dauntlessly. For most of these records are -not idle scribblings of the witless, but careful work by people with a -purpose, whose names are mentioned in the documents of the time. Here -are the names, for instance, of Oate, the conqueror, and of De Vargas, -the re-conqueror, the very flower of the warrior brotherhood. The Rock -is a monument such as has no duplicate in the country; and some day when -our historians have got the Southwest in proper perspective, and waked -up to a realization of the heroism and romance that went into the making -of it, El Morro will perhaps be really protected (if its priceless -inscriptions survive so long) and not left as it is now to vandal -tourists to hack and carve their silly names upon. - -It takes knowledge of old Spanish abbreviations to get at the sense of -many of the records, but even the casual visitor cannot but be struck by -the artistry that characterizes many of the petrographs. One who has -Spanish enough to give zest to the quest could easily spend a couple of -days, camped at this fascinating spot, spelling out the quaint old -notations, peopling again in fancy this ancient camp-ground with the -warriors of long ago in helmet and cuirass, their horses housed in -leather; and ever with them the Franciscan soldiers of the Cross in gray -gown and cord with dangling crucifix. Then there is the enjoyment of the -place itself--the sunny solitude, and the glorious, extended views, the -long blue line of the Zui Mountains, the pale spires of La Puerta de -los Gigantes (the Giants' Gate). Then, if you like, is the climb to the -mesa's summit for yet wider views, and a sight of the ruined old pueblo -there, whereof history has naught to tell--only tradition, which says -that it was once a Zuian town. - -There is some doubt as to the earliest inscription on the Rock. One -questionable writing, unsigned, appears to be 1580. Next in point of -antiquity is the undoubted record of Oate, cut across an earlier Indian -petrograph, and reads _literatim_: "Paso por aqi el adelantado don jua -de oate del descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 del abril del 1606." -(That is: Passed by here the provincial chief Don Juan de Oate from the -discovery of the South Sea on 16th of April, 1606.) The discovery he -records as of the South Sea (i.e., Pacific Ocean) was really of the Gulf -of California, for Oate doubtless believed as most of the world did in -his day that California was an island. Oddly enough, though, he made a -mistake in the date, which documentary evidence proves to have been 1605 -not 1606. - -The inscription of De Vargas, the reconqueror, following the Pueblo -rebellion of 1680, reads: "Aqui estaba el Genl Dn. Do de Vargas quien -conquisto a nuestra santa fe y la real corona todo el nuevo Mexico a su -costa ao de 1692." (Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas who -conquered to our holy faith and the royal crown all New Mexico, at his -own expense, year of 1692.) - -Records of especial interest, too, are two of 1629, telling of the -passing by of Governor Silva Nieto. One is in rhymed verse[43] and -refers to Nieto as the "bearer of the Faith to Zui;" that is, he had -acted as escort of the first Christian missionaries to pagan Zui. A -tragic sequel to that inscription is a short one that is so abbreviated -that scholars have had a hard tussle with it. The puzzle has been -solved, however. You will know this petroglyph by the signature Lujan, a -soldier, and the date 1632; and it reads, Englished: "They passed on 23 -March 1632 to the avenging of Padre Letrado's death." Zui did not take -kindly to its missionaries and killed them periodically. This Padre -Letrado was one of the martyrs--shot to death as he preached, holding -out his crucifix to his murderers.[44] - -In delicate, almost feminine, characters is a modest inscription that -reads, translated: "I am from the hand of Felipe de Avellano, 16 -September, soldier." There is something touching, I think, about that -personified periphrase, and I am glad that, in spite of the omission of -the year, historians have identified the writer. He was a common soldier -of the garrison at Zui after the reconquest, and met death there in -1700. - -It is unfortunate that this noble and unique monument should be left -exposed as it is to vandals. Almost every white visitor thinks it is his -duty to scratch his name up alongside the historic ones and there is no -guardian to forbid--only an unregarded sign of the Department of the -Interior tacked on a nearby tree. A year ago the Department, in response -to private representation, promised to put up a fence of protection, and -perhaps this has been done; but a fence is a perfectly inadequate -measure. If the East possessed one such autograph in stone (of Joliet, -or La Salle, or Cartier), as El Morro bears by the half dozen, I wonder -if the few hundred a year necessary to support a local guardian would -not be forthcoming? When will our nation take seriously the colonial -history of the Southwest as just as much its own as that of the Atlantic -side of the Continental Divide? - -At the shortest, it is a matter of two days to achieve a visit to El -Morro from the railway. Gallup is the best stop-off. There an automobile -may be hired, and the night spent at Ramah, where accommodations may be -had at the trader's unless you prefer to camp at the Rock itself, which, -if you like such adventure and are prepared, is a joyous thing to do. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - THE STORIED LAND OF THE NAVAJO - - -The Navajos are the Bedouins of our Southwest, and there are about -22,000 of them--a fine, independent tribe of Indians occupying a -semi-desert, mountainous reservation in northwestern New Mexico, -northeastern Arizona and a small corner of Utah. Indeed they occupy -somewhat more, for they are confirmed rovers and are frequently found -setting up their _hogans_, shepherding their sheep, and weaving their -blankets, well across their government-fixed borders. One is sure to see -some of them in Gallup, where they come to trade--the men generally in -dark velveteen shirts worn loose outside the trousers, their long, -black, uncut hair filleted about with red _bandas_ and caught up behind -in a club or knot. Both men and women are expert riders, sitting their -ponies as firmly as centaurs; and both are extravagantly fond of silver -jewelry, of which they often wear small fortunes in necklaces, belts, -bracelets, rings and buttons hammered by their own silversmiths from -coin of Mexico. If you see them wearing blankets, as you will when the -weather requires it, these will be the gaudy products of Yankee looms, -which they buy for less than the price they receive for their own famous -weave. So, thrifty traders that they are, they let the white folk have -the latter and content themselves with the cheaper machine-made article -bought from an American merchant. - -It is part of the fun of a visit to the Hopi towns that you must cross a -section of the Navajo Reservation and thus get a glimpse of life in the -latter; but there is a special trip which I would like to recommend from -Gallup as a starting point, that brings one more intimately into touch -with the tribe. That is to Chin Lee and the Caon de Chelly,[45] about -100 miles northwest of Gallup. There is a choice of roads, so that the -going and returning may be by different routes. The trip may be done by -time economists in an automobile in two or three days, but a more -enjoyable plan for easy-going folk is to take eight or ten days to it by -horseback or wagon, camping by the way. And do it preferably in -September or early October, for then the mid-year rains are usually -over, the air clear and sparkling, and feed for horses sufficiently -abundant. The elements that enter into the landscape are primarily those -that go to the making of the grandeur of the Grand Caon region, but -scattered and distant, not concentrated. There is a similar sculpturing -of the land into pinnacles and terraces, cones perfect or truncated, -battlemented castles and airy spires, appearing, when afar, mistily in -an atmosphere of amethyst and mauve and indefinite tones of yellow and -pink. Now the road threads open, sunny forests of pine and oak, the -latter in autumnal dress of crimson and gold and surprising you with -acorns as sweet as chinquapins. Again, it traverses broad, unwatered, -semi-desert plains dotted with fragrant sage-brush and riotous -sunflowers, the only animated things in sight being prairie dogs and -jackrabbits, or an occasional band of Navajo ponies. As the morning -advances, cumulus clouds rise in stately squadrons above the horizon and -move across the sky dropping drifting shadows; at noon over a fire of -sage stumps you heat up your beans and brew your coffee in the grateful -shade of your wagon; night finds you at some hospitable trader's post, -or enjoying your blankets at the sign of _La belle toile_. Only at long -intervals will you come upon sign of human life. At Fort Defiance, 30 -miles north of Gallup, is a Government Reservation school for the -Navajos, and a mile from it an Episcopal medical mission--a living -monument to the loving interest of Miss Eliza Thackara in these Indians. -Eight miles south of Fort Defiance is the Franciscan Mission of St. -Michael's to the Navajo, where, if you are interested, the hospitable -Brothers can show you what sort of a job it is to transform an ungroomed -savage into Christian semblance. At Ganado, Arizona, 45 miles from -Gallup, is the trading post of Mr. J. L. Hubbell, whose name for a -generation has in that part of the world been a synonym for -hospitality.[46] - -Nevertheless, there is more life than you see, for the native _hogan_, -or one-roomed dwelling of logs covered with earth, is so inconspicuous -that you may pass within a few rods of one and never detect it. The -Navajos do not congregate in villages but each family wants a -lot--miles, indeed--of elbow room. - -Chin Lee, mentioned above, is not Chinese as it sounds, but the Navajo -name of a spacious valley into which Caon de Chelly debouches. If you -have a taste for mythology, it will interest you to know that here, -according to tradition, Estsn-atlehi (the chief goddess of the Navajo -pantheon and wife of the Sun-god), traveling from the east once camped -with her attendant divinities for a great ceremony and a footrace. She -was on her way to her home in the great water of the west, where in a -floating house she still lives, and receives her lord the Sun every -evening when his daily work is finished.[47] There is a trading post at -Chin Lee, and beyond the broad flat in front of it is the entrance to -Caon de Chelly. This is a narrow, tortuous rift in the earth, some 20 -miles long, whose perpendicular sides of red sandstone rise 800 to 1000 -feet. Opening into it are two side gorges, Monument and Del Muerto -Caons. A shallow stream of sweet water--sometimes, however, hidden -beneath the sands--creeps along the caon floor, widens in the plain -into the Rio de Chelly, and flowing northward joins the San Juan in -southern Utah. So in time does it contribute its bit to the tawny flood -that pours through the Grand Caon of the Colorado.[48] - -The interests that hold the visitor in Caon de Chelly are several. -There is, first, the stupendous scenery. Men and animals traversing this -level floor seem pygmies at the foot of the smooth, vertical walls, -carved and stained by the master-artist Time working through who knows -how many milleniums. The windings of the gorge keep one in perpetual -expectancy of something going to happen just around the corner, and -create an atmosphere of mystery that is little short of thrilling. In -places the caon widens out in sunlit coves and wild-grass meadows, -where clustered reeds[49] rustle and wild flowers bloom. Quite as often, -though, the walls are so close together that the sunshine never reaches -the bottom and the grim surroundings suggest some overwhelming picture -of Dor's. - -Then there are the ancient dwellings in the cliffs--little, crumbling -cities of the dead. Perched high up in shallow cavities of the flat -wall, some are inaccessible except by ladders; others, may be reached by -scrambling up talus slopes. One famous one, known as Mummy Cave, in -Caon del Muerto, should by all means be visited; but even more striking -is one in the main caon called _La Casa Blanca_ or the White House. The -upper story of this majestic ruin, which strikingly resembles some -medieval castle, is colored white; and the whole line of the immense -edifice set high above the earth and projected against the dark -background of a natural cavity in the enormous cliff, makes a dramatic -picture. The effect is heightened when we learn that in Navajo folk-lore -it plays a part as the abode of certain genii or minor divinities who, -the faithful believe, still haunt the edifice. - -In places the cliffs are prehistoric art galleries, adorned with -pictographs of unheard-of birds and animals, human hands outspread, -geometrical designs, and attenuated figures of men in various attitudes. - -Lastly, there is the interest of a present-day Indian life, for the -caon is the free, joyous home of numerous Navajo families, that come -and go as fancy dictates. Their _hogans_, often with a hand-loom for -blanket weaving[50] swung from a nearby tree are set inconspicuously -here and there at the base of the towering cliffs, wherever there is a -bit of land suitable for the raising of corn, beans and melons. Peach -orchards, too, are here, from seed of Spanish introduction centuries -ago. Flocks of sheep and goats are continually on the move up and down -the caon, which is musical with their bleatings and the wild melody of -the shepherds' songs. It is a picturesque sight at evening to see the -homing bands crowding into the primitive folds which sometimes are a -mere crevice in the rock walls with a rude fence thrown across the -opening. - -During the wars which for many years marked the intercourse of the -Navajos with the whites--both Spaniards and Americans--the Caon de -Chelly was a notable stronghold of the red men. It was here that in 1864 -Kit Carson and his troopers at last succeeded in breaking the backbone -of the Indian resistance. Today the Navajos are as peaceable as the -Pueblos. - -According to Navajo legends, the boundaries of their land were marked -out for them by the gods who brought them up through the great reed from -the lower world.[51] These landmarks were in the form of mountains -especially created for the purpose of earth brought from the lower -world, and were seven in number. Of these the Sacred Mountain of the -East is believed to be Pelado Peak, 20 miles northeast of Jemes pueblo -and it was made fast to the earth by a bolt of lightning; the Sacred -Mountain of the South is known to be Mount San Mato, 20 miles or so -northwest of Laguna pueblo, held in place by a great stone knife thrust -through it from summit to base; the Sacred Mountain of the West, is the -San Francisco Mountain, 12 miles north of Flagstaff, Arizona, fastened -down by a sunbeam; and the Sacred Mountain of the North is some one of -the San Juan range, which a rainbow held in place. The other three are -peaks of the mid-region, only one of which, Hosta Butte in Bernalillo -County, New Mexico, has been identified.[52] Two of these mountains are -plainly visible from the Santa Fe Railway trains and by motorists -following the National Old Trails transcontinental highway--namely, the -San Francisco Mountain (12,611 feet) and Mount San Mato (11,389 feet). -Both are extinct volcanoes. The vicinity of Mount San Mato (which is -also known as Mount Taylor)[53] is the scene of a thrilling tradition. -There it was that the Navajo Gods of War (children of the Sun and of the -Waterfall), mounted upon a rainbow, met and slew with lightning bolts -the boy-eating giant, Ye-itso. The latter was a monster so huge that the -spread of his two feet was a day's journey for a man, his footfalls were -as thunder, and when he drank his draught exhausted a lake. His head, -cut off by the War-gods and tossed away, was changed into El Cabezon, a -truncated cone of a mountain visible 40 miles northeast from San Mato; -and his blood flowing in a deluge to the south and west is what we white -folk in our ignorance call a hardened lava-flow, as we watch it from the -car window for miles westward from McCarty's. Look at it again with the -eyes of faith, and is not its semblance that of coagulated, blackened -blood? - -So you see in this glorious Southwest we may still follow in the very -footsteps of the gods, and regard the world as it seems through the eyes -of a primitive and poetic race--see in the lightning the weapon of the -red gods, in the rainbows their bridges to traverse chasms withal, in -the sunbeams their swift cars of passage. There is something rather -exhilarating, I think, to know that in our materialistic America there -is a region where the Ancient Ones still haunt as in the youth of the -world. To be sure the white man's schools are operating to break up this -primitive faith; but the ingrained genius of a race is not made over in -a generation. One may stumble still upon Navajo religious ceremonies, -held in the open, with their picturesque rites and maskings and wild -music. They differ markedly from the ceremonies of the Pueblos, and are, -as a rule, undertaken under the charge of medicine men primarily for the -cure of the sick. There are no fixed dates for any of these ceremonies, -and casual travelers do not often see them, as they are most likely to -be held during the cold weather, when few visitors care to penetrate -into the country. An exceedingly interesting adjunct of many of the -Navajo rites is the dry sand painting, of a symbolic character and often -of striking beauty, made in color upon a prepared flooring of sand. The -design is "drawn" on this by dribbling upon it the dry ground -pigments--white, red, yellow, black and gray--from between the artist's -thumb and fore-finger. The picture must be done in one day, several men -sometimes working upon it at once. When completed the sick man is placed -upon it and treated; and after that, the picture is obliterated.[54] - - - - - CHAPTER IX - THE HOMES OF THE HOPIS, LITTLE PEOPLE OF PEACE - - -Now that the automobile has become a common mode of travel even in the -desert, you may reach the pueblos of the Hopi Indians quite comfortably -from Gallup.[55] The distance is about 130 miles to the first of the -villages. The road is via St. Michael's (where the Franciscan Brothers -maintain a Mission for the Navajos); Ganado, where Mr. J. L. Hubbell's -trading post stands; and Keam's Caon, where Mr. Lorenzo Hubbell, -hospitable son of a hospitable father, has another trading post. As far -as Ganado (70 miles) the way is identical with the first part of one -road to the Caon de Chelly. From Ganado westward there are 60 miles of -pure wilderness, semi-desert, treeless, but in summer and autumn -splendid in places with sheets of wild flowers in purple and yellow. On -every hand--sometimes near, sometimes afar--are the characteristic mesa -formations of the Southwest carved by the elements into curious shapes -to which the fancy readily suggests names. One that you will pass is a -strikingly good model of a battleship's dismantled hull, and goes by the -name of Steamboat Rock--a pleasant conceit for this desert, which, the -geologists tell us, was once a sea bottom. Nowhere is sign of humanity, -save perhaps, some wandering Navajos or a chance traveler like yourself. - -[Illustration] - - CASA BLANCA OR WHITE HOUSE - - A prehistoric Cliff dwelling set amidst the stupendous scenery of - the Caon de Chelly, Arizona--the reputed haunt of certain Navajo - gods. - -[Illustration] - - EL MORRO OR INSCRIPTION ROCK, N. M. - - This remarkable cliff bears near its base a score or more of - autographs carved in the stone by the Spanish conquerors during the - 17th and 18th centuries. - -At last there comes a change over the country ahead of you--a -transfiguration to broad sweeps of pink and pallid yellow, with here and -there a streak of white or of green, and on the far horizon a wall of -purple. The Painted Desert is before you, and upon the very tip of a -long promontory streaked horizontally with brown and red and yellow, and -laid upon the desert like a gigantic arm thrust out, you see the -castellated sky-line formed by the pueblos of the First Hopi Mesa. The -geography of the Hopi country is like this: Three long, narrow mesas -extending fingerlike into the Painted Desert, the tips about 10 miles -each from the next. On the First Mesa (which is the easternmost) are -three villages in an almost continuous row--Hano (called also Tewa), -which you plump breathlessly into at the top of the one steep trail -which is your means of access to all; then Sichmovi, and lastly, at the -mesa's extremity with all the desert in front, is Walpi, a most -picturesque pile rising in terraces to 4 stories and suggesting some -mediaeval fortress. The Second Mesa is forked at its tip, with -Mishngnovi and Shipalovi set superbly along one tine, and -Shimpovi[56] on the other. On the Third Mesa stands old Oraibi, largest -and until recently most populous of all. Some years ago, however, it -suffered a secession of fully half its population, who are now -established a few miles away on the same mesa forming the independent -pueblos of Htavila and Bcavi.[57] - -The situation of these little towns is magnificent beyond words, -overlooking the Painted Desert, ever changing, ever wonderful, ever -challenging the spiritual in you, and stretching to where the San -Francisco Peaks, the Mogollones and the White Mountains notch the dim -horizon line. The elevation (6000 feet above the sea) and the purity and -dryness of the air, combine to make the climate particularly healthful -and enjoyable. Winter brings frosts and some snow, alternating with -brilliant sunshine. Summer, the season that interests the average -visitor, is as a rule delightful--the afternoon thunder showers of July -and August being only a refreshment and a source of added -picturesqueness in the form of superb cloud effects, spectacular -lightning, and splendid rainbows. Mid-day is warm enough for old men to -loiter in the sun in a costume that is pared down to a breech clout and -little children joyously wear nothing at all; yet both need covering in -the shade. As for the summer nights, they are always deliciously cool -and for outdoor sleeping are ideal. The flat-roofed, eaveless houses are -usually of flat stones laid in mud mortar, and though terraced, do not -usually exceed two or three stories in height. The arrangement is in -streets and plazas, the _kivas_ or ceremonial chambers (corresponding to -the _estufas_ of the Rio Grande pueblos) being underground and reached -by a descending ladder, whose upper part--two rungless poles--stick -picturesquely up in the air. There is a growing tendency to build the -new houses at the bases of the cliffs, particularly at the First and -Third Mesas--a reversal to first principles; for when Don Pedro de -Tovar, a lieutenant of Coronado, with Padre Juan de Padilla (of whom we -heard at Isleta) and a few soldiers, visited in 1540 this province of -Tusayan, as they called the country, they reported the Hopis dwelling at -the foot of the mesas. It was only later, probably after the Pueblo -Rebellion of 1680, that the towns were rebuilt upon the mesa summits -where we now find them. The sites of two former Walpis may still be -traced below the First Mesa together with the ruins of an ancient -Franciscan Mission, some of whose timbers, they say, form part of the -existing pagan _kivas_. The Hopi never took kindly to missionary effort -by the whites. Every _padre_ among them was murdered at the time of the -Rebellion, and they would never tolerate another. Even kind Padre Garcs -(of whom we shall hear in a subsequent chapter) the Oraibians kept -sitting outdoors in a street corner for two days, and then evicted him -from their town. In 1700, one pueblo whose inhabitants showed a -hospitable feeling to the preaching of a persistent friar, was attacked -by neighboring Hopis, set on fire and such of the inhabitants as were -not killed, were carried to other towns. Of that pueblo--its name was -Awtobi--you may see some ruined remnants yet about 9 miles southeast of -Walpi.[58] - -The attraction that draws most visitors to the country of the Hopi -Indians is the famous Snake Dance held annually in August. The date is a -movable one and not known positively until 9 days in advance, when the -information may be had of the Santa Fe railway officials, who make it a -point to be posted. This remarkable ceremony, in which live snakes, a -large proportion of them venomous rattlers, are handled by the dance -participants as nonchalantly as if they were kittens, is in fact a -prayer for rain, in which the snakes (never harmed or their fangs -extracted as is sometimes ignorantly supposed), are intermediaries -between the people and the gods of water. It is moreover the -dramatization of a Hopi myth concerning the origin of the two -clans--Antelope and Snake--who perform the ceremony. The myth has to do -with the adventures of a young man who, impelled by curiosity to know -where the river waters went, made a trip on a hollow log down the -Colorado to its mouth. There he had many dealings with the Snake people, -in whose ways he was instructed by the friendly Spider Woman. Finally he -married the Snake chief's daughter, and brought her to his own country. -The first children of this union were snakes, which the Hopis drove -away, but the next were human, and these, the ancestors of the present -Snake Clan, came to Walpi to live. The entire ceremony continues -throughout 9 days, and is conducted secretly in the underground _kiva_ -until near sunset of the last day. Then the priests dramatically emerge -into the upper air, and the dance with the snakes occurs. It is all over -in about half an hour, but that half hour is what brings the -crowd--about the most thrilling and wide-awake performance that is -offered anywhere in America. Though the Snake Dance takes place -annually, all the villages do not hold it the same year. The most -frequented presentations are those at Walpi, held in the odd years, as -1917, 1919, etc., and at Oraibi, the latter in the even years, as 1918, -1920, etc. - -The Snake Dance attracts largely through the horror awakened in most of -us by reptiles, though it possesses many elements of majestic beauty, -too. There are numerous other Hopi ceremonies whose dominant feature to -the white onlooker is simple beauty; for instance, the picturesque Flute -ceremony held at springs below the mesas, and then along the ascending -trails to the mesa-top accompanied by songs, the music of native flutes -and the scattering of flowers. This ceremony, which is also the -dramatization of a legend[59] as well as an invocation for rain, -alternates with the Snake Dance, being held at about but not at the -identical time with it, and always at other pueblos than those holding -the Snake Dance. This permits attenders at one to witness the other -also. Then at all the pueblos there are the autumnal Basket Dances of -the women, and in spring and summer the many beautiful Katchina Dances. -Katchinas are the deified spirits of the Hopis' ancestors, and are -intercessors with the greater gods for divine favors for the Hopis. They -are supposed to reside amid the San Francisco Peaks, where the home of -the Sun god is, the great dispenser of blessings. Their annual visits -(Indians of the pueblo impersonating the gods) are the occasions of much -merry-making, of songs and processions, and dances in mask and gay -costumes. Each god has his distinctive mask and dress, and the queer -little wooden "dolls" (as the traders call them, though "Katchina" is -the better word), which the visitors find in Hopi houses are careful -representations of these, made for the children of the household to -familiarize themselves with the characteristic aspect of each divinity. -"These dances," to quote Mr. Walter Hough, whose excellent little work, -"The Hopi," should be read by every intending visitor, "show the -cheerful Hopi at his best--a true spontaneous child of nature. They are -the most characteristic ceremonies of the pueblos, most musical, -spectacular and pleasing. They are really more worthy of the attention -of white people than the forbidding Snake Dance, which overshadows them -by the elements of horror." - -Visitors who allow themselves to be hurried up to the Hopi towns the day -before the Snake Dance and then packed off home the next morning, as -most of them do, may think they have had a good time, but it is largely -the bliss of ignorance. They do not know what they have missed by not -spending a week or two. To be sure accommodations are limited and -primitive, but one must expect to rough it more or less in Indian -country. Still the Hopis are not savages and one can be made -comfortable. It is generally possible to rent one of the small houses at -the foot of the mesa, if one does not bring one's own camp outfit, and -there are traders at most of the villages where supplies of necessaries -may be obtained. Climb the trail to the sunny, breeze-swept mesa top; -get acquainted with the merry, well-behaved little children--easy -enough, particularly if you have a little stock of candy; watch the -women making _piki_ (the thin wafer-like corn-bread of many colors that -is the Hopi staff of life), or molding or burning pottery; see the men -marching off, huge hoes on shoulder, to cultivate their corn and beans, -sometimes miles away, in damp spots of the desert, or coming -inward-bound driving burros laden with firewood or products of the -field. All this, in an architectural setting that is as picturesque as -Syria, replete with entrancing "bits" that are a harvest to the artist -or the kodaker. After a day or two you will have had your measure pretty -well taken by the population, and granting your manners have been -decent, you will be making friends, and every day will show you -something new in the life of this most interesting race. Of course there -is a difference in the different towns--the customs of some have been -more modified than others by contact with the whites and the influence -of the Government educational system. The Walpians and their neighbors -are perhaps the most Americanized; the people of Htavila and Shimpovi, -the least so. - -The Hopis possess arts of great interest. Pottery of beautiful form and -design is made at Hano[60] of the First Mesa. This tiny village has the -honor of being the home of the most famous of Indian potters, Nampyo, -whose work is so exquisite that it looks distinctive in any company. Her -daughter Kwatsoa seems nearly as gifted. Then there is basketry. -Curiously enough the East Mesa makes no baskets whatever, and the -baskets of the Middle Mesa are quite of another sort from those of the -Third Mesa, and both so different from all other Indian baskets -whatsoever, as to be recognized at a glance. The Third Mesa baskets are -woven wicker work usually in the form of a tray or plaque, the design -symbolizing birds, clouds, butterflies, etc., in glaring aniline dyes. -Those of the Second Mesa are in heavy coils sewed together with a thread -of the yucca wrapping, and in various shapes from flat to globular, the -latter sometimes provided with handles. Weaving is an ancient Hopi art -that is now unfortunately decadent. In pre-Spanish days and for some -time afterwards, the Hopi cultivated a native cotton,[61] and cotton is -still woven by them into ceremonial kilts and cord. Formerly they were -famous weavers of rabbit-skin blankets. The visitor may still run across -an occasional one in the pueblos, but the blanket of wool has long since -displaced them. The Hopis make of weaving a man's business, which is -usually carried on in the _kivas_ when these are not being used for -religious purposes. They specialize in women's _mantas_, or one-piece -dresses, of a dark color with little or no ornamentation. - - - - - CHAPTER X - THE PETRIFIED FOREST OF ARIZONA - - -Everybody enjoys his stop off at the Petrified Forest. For one thing, -this sight is as easy of achievement as falling off a log, and that -counts heavily with your average American tourist. Even if your train -drops you at Adamana[62] in the middle of the night, as some trains do, -there will be somebody there to carry your bag and pilot you the couple -of hundred yards to the lone hotel which, with the railroad station and -the water tank, is practically all there is of Adamana. Then you are put -comfortably to bed in a room that awaits you. In the morning you are -given a leisurely breakfast at your own hour, and packed in an -automobile to see one part of the Forest; brought home to luncheon; and -in the afternoon motored off to another part. If you are an invalid or -just naturally lazy, you need not even leave your seat in the -conveyance. After that it is your choice to proceed on your travels, or -stay over another day and visit more distant parts of the Forest. In -seeing the Forest, you incidentally have several miles of reasonably -easy driving over the vast northern Arizona plateau with its wide views -to the edge of a world hemmed in with many a dreamy mountain range and -long, colorful, flat-topped mesas breaking away in terraces and steps to -the plains. You will quite possibly see coyotes and jackrabbits and -prairie dogs, cattle grazing the wild grasses, a Navajo Indian or two, -cowboys on their loping ponies, perhaps a round-up with its trailing -chuckwagon. You will steep yourself in the delicious Arizona sunshine, -and be humbled before the majesty of the glorious Arizona sky, blue as -sapphire and piled high at times with colossal masses of cumulus clouds -that forevermore will mean Arizona to you. - -The Forest is unfortunately mis-named, for it is not a forest. There is -not a single standing trunk, such as you may see occasionally in Utah or -the Yellowstone. In the midst of a treeless plain the broken logs litter -the ground in sections rarely over 25 feet long, oftenest in short -chunks as if sawn apart, and in chips and splinters innumerable. Trunk -diameters of 2 or 3 feet are common, and as high as 6 feet has been -reported. It seems likely that the trees did not grow where they now lie -but have been washed hither in some prehistoric swirl of waters, (as -logs are carried down stream in our latter-day puny freshets,) becoming -stranded in certain depressions of the land where we now find them, -often having had their woody tissue gradually replaced by silica and -agatized. Whence they came nobody knows, nor when. The guess of the -unlettered guide who shows you about, may be as near right as the -trained geologist's, who locates the time of their fall as the Triassic -Age, and their old home as perhaps beside some inland sea; but whether -that was one million years ago or twenty, who can say, further than that -they surely antedate the appearance of man upon this planet. The trees -are evidently of different sorts, but mostly conifers apparently related -to our present day araucarias, of which the Norfolk Island pine is a -familiar example. Mr. F. H. Knowlton, botanist of the Smithsonian -Institution, identifies then as _Araucarioxylon Arizonicum_, an extinct -tree once existing also in the east-central United States.[63] Limbs and -branches in anything approaching entirety are not found--only the trunks -and infinite fragments are here. The coloration due to the presence of -iron oxides in the soil at the time of silicification is often -exquisite, in shades of pink, yellow, blue, brown, crimson--a never -failing source of delight to visitors. Dr. L. F. Ward, of the United -States Geological Survey, has said that "there is no other petrified -forest in which the wood assumes so many varied and interesting forms -and colors.... The state of mineralization in which much of this wood -exists almost places it among the gems or precious stones. Not only are -chalcedony, opals and agates found among them, but many approach the -condition of jasper and onyx."[64] - -The parts of the Forest that tourists usually visit are the so-called -First Forest, about 6 miles south of Adamana (which contains the huge -trunk that spans a picturesque chasm 45 feet wide, and is known as the -Natural Bridge[65]); the Second Forest, 2 miles further south; and the -North Forest. The last is 9 miles due north from Adamana, at the edge of -such a chaotic, burned-out bit of volcanic waste, as is in itself worth -seeing, breaking away gradually into the Painted Desert. If for any -reason, your time is too limited to admit of your visiting more than one -section of the Forest, by all means, let that section be this North -Forest. The trees are less numerous and the fragments are less -strikingly colored than in the parts to the south, but that background -of color and mystery given by the desert, lends a fascination and gives -to the picture a composition that is unique and unforgettable. - -There is, moreover, the so-called Third or Rainbow Forest,[66] 13 miles -southwest of Adamana. This region contains the most numerous and the -largest trunks, some of them (partially underground) measuring upwards -of 200 feet in length. The especially rich coloring of the wood here has -given rise to the local name "Rainbow." - -In several parts of the Petrified Forest (a large portion of which is -now, by the way, a National Monument), are the ruins of many small -prehistoric Indian villages. The relics found indicate that four -different stocks of Indians have lived among these shattered trees, one -clearly Hopi, another probably Zuian, the others undetermined (one -apparently of cannibalistic habits). Dr. Walter Hough has written very -entertainingly of this human interest of the Petrified Forest in -Harpers' Magazine for November, 1902. The houses of the Rainbow Forest -were unique in aboriginal architecture in that they were constructed of -petrified logs. To quote Dr. Hough: "It is probable that prehistoric -builders never chose more beautiful stones for the construction of their -habitations than the trunks of the trees which flourished ages before -man appeared on the earth. This wood agate also furnished material for -stone hammers, arrowheads and knives, which are often found in ruins -hundreds of miles from the Forest."[67] - -[Illustration] - - IN THE NORTH PETRIFIED FOREST - - Near Adamana, Arizona. A glimpse of the famous Painted Desert in the - background. - -[Illustration] - - A CORNER IN SANTA FE, N. M. - - The New Mexican capital retains to this day many picturesque - features of the Spanish and Mexican dominance. - - - - - CHAPTER XI - FLAGSTAFF AS A BASE - - -A score of years ago Flagstaff[68] was chiefly known to the traveler as -the gateway to the Grand Caon of the Colorado, 70 miles to the -northwest. One may still reach that marvelous chasm by automobile from -Flagstaff, arriving at Grand View after 5 or 6 hours' driving, now -through a park-like forest of yellow pine, now across an open plateau -region with alluring views of far-off mountain ranges and of the Painted -Desert. The completion of the railroad spur from Williams to the Grand -Caon, however, put a quietus upon the operation of the horse stages -from Flagstaff; and since the passing of the Grand Caon business the -town has cut small figure in tourist itineraries, its energies since -being concentrated on the less precarious profits from lumber, cattle -and wool. Nevertheless, its situation in a clearing of the beautiful -Coconino National Forest, 7000 feet above the sea makes it a convenient -base for visiting certain attractions of a remarkable nature thereabout, -as lava beds, ice caves, extinct volcanoes, prehistoric cliff[69] and -cinder-cone dwellings, the Painted Desert, and the famous San Francisco -Peaks, fabled home of the Hopi Katchinas and the scene of many an Indian -legend. The town has several hotels of a modest sort, and is on the line -of the National Old Trails transcontinental motor highway; and if you -have your own car or the wherewithal to rent one in Flagstaff, you can -be very happy in this neighborhood for a week or two. The town itself, -with a population of a couple of thousand, has a certain picturesqueness -of an up-to-date frontier fashion, in which automobiles and soda-pop -largely take the place of ponies, pistols and "forty-rod," for at this -writing the hand of "bone dry" Prohibition rests paternally upon -Arizona. Especially interesting are Saturday nights, when the streets -are likely to be thronged with lumberjacks, cowpunchers and -ranchers--American and Mexican--come to town to swap news and trade, to -see the "shows," play pool and listen to the "rag" of blatant -gramophones. A Navajo or two, standing in the glare of the electric -lights, may add a touch of aboriginal color to the scene--teamsters for -some desert trading post. - -Dominating Flagstaff, as Mont Blanc dominates Chamonix, is the isolated -mountain mass, the highest in Arizona, called the San Francisco Peaks, -snow-crowned seven or eight months in the year and familiar to every -traveler by the Santa Fe's transcontinental trains. Their clustered -half-dozen summits in the form of graceful cones attain a maximum -elevation of 12,611 feet above the sea (5600 feet above Flagstaff) and -have been a famous landmark from the time of the Spanish conquistadores, -who named them, to the present day. The Navajos, as has been told in a -previous chapter, assign to the great mountain a divine construction -from earth brought up in the Emergence from the underworld, the gods who -built it pinning it down poetically with a sunbeam. Matter-of-fact -geologists, however, consider the mass as merely an extinct volcano with -its top blown off, and find its flanks covered with the congealed lava -streams of successive eruptions. The disintegrated surfaces of lava make -a fertile bed for the abundant forests, gardens of wild flowers, and -natural fields of indigenous grasses that clothe the base and sides up -to within a few hundred feet of the craggy top. If you have a taste for -mountain climbing and fine outlooks, by all means give a day or two to -the San Francisco Mountain. It is of easiest ascent, and the views, full -of delight from the moment you leave Flagstaff, attain at the summit a -climax that is nothing short of dramatic. The whole of the northern and -central Arizona plateau is spread below and about you in such glory of -color (if the atmospheric conditions be right) as you have never dreamt -of. You can pick out the farther wall of the Grand Caon and the -Buckskin Mountains beyond; the companion volcanic cones of Kendrick, -Bill Williams,[70] and Sitgreaves to the westward; the Mogollon Mesa -stretching south towards Phoenix; the Verde Valley; the Red Rock Country -and Oak Creek Caon; Sunset Peak;[71] and most striking of all, the -glory of the Painted Desert stretching illimitably to the northeast, -with the Little Colorado River winding across it to join the Big -Colorado 60 miles due north of you. The opportunity to enjoy that -unobscured outlook upon the desert from a point over a mile above it, is -alone a sufficient reward for the trip. It is like looking on another -world, so unearthly are the tones in which that marvelous waste is -dyed--indefinite shades of yellow, pink, crimson, brown, cream, green; -so striking the sculpturing of its mesas and promontories. Then, too, if -you have a spark of romance in your make-up, will it not be an event to -tread the very pathways of the gods with whom the Indian fancy has -peopled the glades and gorges of this hoary old volcano, as the Greeks -peopled Ida--to know that somewhere in these sunny, piny slopes is the -fabled house of the Sun God, who, when he would travel, summons a -rainbow, as you or I would ring for a taxicab, and to whom, it is said, -the Hopis still send prayer plumes by a messenger who trots the 70 miles -from the pueblos hither between sunrise and sunset of a summer day? - -Would it not give you a thrill to feel when passing through the aspen -groves that dot the upper heights, that in such a rustling wood here -upon this very mountain, when the world was young, the Hero-Children of -the Spider Woman slew the wicked Giant Elk who ravaged the land of the -Hopi--those Hero-Children of whom one was Youth, begotten of the Light, -and the other Echo, begotten of the Raindrop?[72] - -From Flagstaff to the tip of Humphrey's Peak, the highest of all, is 10 -miles in a bee-line, or about 15 as pedestrians and horses go. Of this -distance about 5 miles are by a good road practicable for automobiles, -now winding through open forest, now skirting some ranch--a pleasant, -old-fashioned highway bordered with worm fences and thickets of wild -rose and goldenrod. From a certain point on the road to the Peaks, which -are always in view, an easy trail leads through a charming forest to -which the absence of underbrush gives a park-like character, open and -sunny and carpeted in places with wild flowers. The prevailing trees for -a couple of thousand feet of the ascent are yellow pines, rising at -their best to a height of over 100 feet and probably of an age of 300 to -500 years. Above this yellow pine belt the trail steepens and zigzags -sharply bringing you out at last amid broken stone and volcanic scoriae -where no trees are, only shy sub-alpine plants clinging by their toes to -the crevices of the rocks. Here a hog-back joins Humphrey's Peak (12,611 -feet) and Agassiz (12,330 feet), and you have the choice of mounting to -either or both. Under the eastern slopes of these peaks a glacier 2 -miles long once headed, whose bed is now a large valley within the -mountain's folds dropping downward to the northeast. To the geological, -this valley with its moraine and glaciated rocks is a source of especial -interest, since it constitutes one of the southernmost instances of ice -action within the United States.[73] - -A good walker used to high altitudes can do the round trip from -Flagstaff to the summit and back in a day of 12 hours, but he should be -sure to carry water. For the average tourist, however, horseback is -recommended with a guide (procurable at Flagstaff). Added interest will -be secured by arranging to camp over night upon the mountain, for in -this way the superb light effects of early morning and evening may be -enjoyed at leisure. Owing to snow on the peaks most of the year, the -ascent must usually be made between mid-June and mid-October. June is -probably the best month, if snow is absent, as the atmosphere is then -apt to be at its clearest; after that, September or early October is the -choice. July and August are months of frequent, almost daily, -thunderstorms, which, of course, are disturbing factors in more ways -than one. Flagstaff, by the way, is credited by the United States' -Geological Survey with a greater rainfall than any other station in -Arizona, and this is attributed to its nearness to the San Francisco -Mountain. - -Should you desire a closer acquaintance with that harlequin of wastes, -the Painted Desert, there are from Flagstaff two trips you can take -across an end of it with reasonable success in a motor car. One is to -the Hopi village of Oraibi by way of Tolcheco, and the other to Tuba. -The distance in each case is about 70 miles. To Tuba there is a -semi-weekly automobile stage (with shovel and water bags strapped to -it), making the round trip usually inside of one day. It is an -interesting excursion, taking you close to Sunset Peak, with its -remarkable rosy crest, and over the Little Colorado River by a bridge -that makes the traveler independent of the sudden rises of that erratic -stream. You will pass here and there mounds that are the crumbled -remains of prehistoric pueblos, and again stone chips and bits of trunks -of petrified trees, the scattered fragments of vanished forests of which -the Petrified Forest of Adamana is our most perfect remnant. Sometimes -we pass beneath ruddy cliffs eroded and weathered into such -grotesqueness of face and figure as would make Alice out of Wonderland -feel at home, squat toads and humped camels and ogres with thick -grinning lips. Farther away, mesas jutting into the desert present the -semblance of cities with towers and ramparts in ghostly tones of pink -and yellow and cream.[74] Occasionally an auto-truck, hauling goods to -or from some desert trade-post, passes you, and sometimes a wagon train -of wool, horse-drawn, in charge of Navajo teamsters. Approaching Tuba, -you cross the Moenkopi Wash, and are refreshed with the greenery of the -farms of the Hopis, who from time immemorial have occupied this haunt of -moisture. If you have time to visit the little pueblo of Moenkopi, 2 -miles from Tuba and perched on the mesa edge overlooking the farms, it -will interest you. It is the westernmost of all the Hopi villages, its -population of a couple of hundred enjoying life in Indian fashion with -abounding dances and thanksgiving. At Tuba itself, there is not much for -the casual visitor, except a couple of Indian trading establishments and -a Government Boarding School with its concomitant buildings connected -with the Agency of the Western Navajo Reservation. The region -roundabout, however, includes enough points of local interest to occupy -a two or three weeks' vacation very pleasantly. Accommodations are -obtainable at a trader's or one of the Government houses, and saddle -horses may be hired from the Indians. Some 65 miles to the north are -certain remarkably fine pueblo- or Cliff dwelling-ruins, known as Betata -Kin and Keet Seel, in Marsh Pass.[75] - -Twenty or thirty miles south of Flagstaff is a region of unique -interest, known as the Oak Creek Valley, whither Flagstaffians motor in -season to fish for trout and enjoy a bit of Arcady. There are a public -resort or two and a number of ranches in the valley, tributary to which -is some of the wildest scenery in the Southwest. In adjacent caons, -whose sides often rise an almost sheer 800 to 1000 feet, are the ruined -habitations of a prehistoric people (probably ancestors of certain -existing Hopi clans)--cliff houses, cavate dwellings and fortified -eminences, the last advantageously adopted by the Apaches in the wars of -half a century ago. The dominant color of the rock is bright red, -frequently in horizontal bands, and has gained the region the popular -appellation of "The Red Rock Country." The caon walls and outstanding -rock masses have been worn by the elements into columns, minarets, -steeples, temples and other architectural semblances such as are shown -surpassingly in the Grand Caon. Indian pictographs abound--some -prehistoric, some evidently of modern Apache doing. Dr. J. W. Fewkes, -the scientific discoverer of the region a quarter of a century ago, -thought himself justified in comparing it to the Garden of the Gods, -than which it is much more extended.[76] - - - - - CHAPTER XII - THE GRAND CAON OF THE COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA - - -From Williams, on the Santa Fe's transcontinental line, a branch runs -due north across 65 miles of the great Colorado Plateau and lands the -traveler at the very rim of the Grand Caon--one of the most enjoyable, -most novel, most awakening sights among the Southwest's marvels. Even if -your arrival be at darkest midnight, you will _feel_ the nearness of -that awful void in the unseen--a strange and humbling experience. For -accommodations you have the choice of American plan and what passes in -the wilderness for luxury at the big El Tovr Hotel,[77] or of lodging -yourself more economically but comfortably enough in cabin or tent at -the nearby Bright Angel Camp with meals _ la carte_ at the Harvey Caf. -Then you will want to know what to see. - -The Grand Caon is among those stupendous natural wonders that the -traveler needs time to adjust himself to; and I am inclined to believe -that his first act in wisdom is to sit down at the rim with a -comprehensive map before him and spend a leisurely hour studying -geography. Fortunately a very good practical map is included in the -Santa Fe's folder that describes the Caon, and this may be had of any -agent for the asking. The names, taken from all sorts of mythologies and -philosophies--Hindu, Chinese, Norse, British, Greek, Egyptian, with a -dash of Aztec and latter day American--and given to the various -prominent shapes simulating temples, pagodas, castles, towers, -colonnades and what not, are rather bewildering and indeed seem out of -place in mid-Arizona. In better taste, I think, are the more simply -named spots that commemorate adjacent native tribes as Hopi, Walapai, -Zui; old white dwellers by the rim like Bass, Rowe and Hance; and -explorers associated with the Caon, such as Powell, Escalante and -Crdenas. Crdenas, it may not be amiss to state, was the officer -dispatched by Coronado from Zui to learn the truth about the great -gorge and river, the report of which Tovar had brought him from the -Hopis. It was Crdenas and his little company of a dozen soldiers, who, -one autumn day of 1540, were the first white men to look into the mighty -chasm. At the bottom they could detect the great river flowing, -seemingly a mere thread of a rivulet; but their attempts to reach it -were fruitless, so precipitous they found the Caon walls.[78] The -stream that first received the name of Colorado, is the one we now call -Little Colorado. Oate dubbed it so--Spanish for red--because of the -color of its turbid waters. The greater river in Crdenas's day was -known as _el Rio del Tizn_, the river of the Fire-brand--a name given -it by explorers of its lower waters because of certain Indians on its -bank whom the Spaniards saw warming themselves with brands taken from -the fire. The Colorado River as we now know it, and including its -tributaries the Grand and the Green, drains a region only secondary to -the basin of the Mississippi. Its length from the headwaters of the -Green in Wyoming to the outlet into the Gulf of California is about 2000 -miles. The Grand Caon (including 65 miles above the junction with the -Little Colorado and known as Marble Caon) is 283 miles in length, the -walls varying from 3000 to nearly 6000 feet high and rising from the -river in a series of huge steps or terraces, so that the width, which at -the river is from about 100 to 600 feet, increases to several miles at -the rim. The deepest part of the chasm is near the hotels, and the river -there flows over a mile below them.[79] The Caon walls are the delight -of geologists, who find there in orderly arrangement (stratum upon -stratum in banded colors) the deposits of the successive ages of the -earth from the archaean granite to the lava flows of recent geologic -time. A succinct and readable account of the geological features of the -Caon will be found in the United States Geological Survey's admirable -Guide Book of the Western United States, Part C--a book of especial -value to the car-window observer on the Santa Fe route. - -Trains to the Caon are arranged so that travelers may reach it in the -early morning and leave the same evening. In a way this is unfortunate, -for it offers a temptation, almost irresistible to an American tourist, -to "do" the place in a day and go on to some other sight. Of course no -one _can_ do it in a day, but he can do certain things, and he can get a -notion of the general scheme. Three days at least would best be planned -for, and of course more still would be better. The principal features -that should not be missed, may be summed up as follows: A horseback trip -down into the Caon by either Bright Angel Trail or the Hermit Trail; -the drive (15 miles the round) over the Hermit Rim road; the auto trip -(26 miles the round) to Grand View Point. There are, moreover, several -short drives of four or five miles by public coach to vantage points -along the rim, costing a dollar or two per passenger; and of course -walks innumerable, among which that to Hopi Point, about 2 miles -northwest from the railway terminus, is particularly to be recommended -for its sunset view of the Caon. Another pleasant short rim walk is to -Yavapai Point, 1 miles to the eastward. From both these points the view -is superb. - -The trip down the Bright Angel[80] trail to the river and back is an all -day jaunt. To the tenderfoot it is a somewhat harrowing experience to be -borne downward at an angle of 45 degrees more or less on the back of a -wobbling animal, whose head at times hangs over eternity, and whose only -footing is on a narrow shelf scratched out of a precipitous wall of the -Caon. However, as nothing tragical happens, and as there is no escape -once you are started on the _descensus Averni_, you soon find enjoyment -in the novel trip, zigzagging ever downward through successive geologic -ages marked by rock strata in white, red, brown and blue. - -Something over half way down there is a grateful let-up, when the trail -runs out upon a plateau watered by a musical little brook. This place is -known as "The Indian Garden." It is enclosed on three sides by lofty -reddish walls, and here some Havasupai Indians are said to have had in -comparatively recent times a village, and to have cultivated the land. -Long before them, however, _en el tiempo de cuanto ha_, as the Pueblo -story tellers say in poetic Spanish ("in the time of how long ago"), -another race must have tilled the same soil, as the near-by cliffs -maintain numerous remains of rock dwellings and other evidences of human -occupancy. It is a pleasant, flowery, romantic spot, this Indian Garden, -in the Caon's crimson heart, with its fascinating environment of rock -sculpturings that seem the towers, palaces and temples of an enchanted -city awaiting the lifting of a spell. At the plateau's outer edge you -have a stupendous view of the colossal gorge and the muddy torrent of -the river, leaping and roaring 1300 feet below. You may make the Indian -Garden the limit of your descent, or you may continue to the river -itself, corkscrewing down among the crevices and rockbound ways and -echoes of the inexorable wall until you come out upon a little beach, -past which, more terrible than beautiful, the savage torrent thunders -and cascades and tears its course to freedom. You will be glad to get -into the blessed upper world again, but you would not have missed the -experience for a greater cost of clambering. - -The Hermit Rim road is a first-class modern highway (so far barred, -thank heaven, to automobiles), extending about 7 miles westward from El -Tovar by way of Hopi Point to the Hermit Basin. Part of it passes -through beautiful stretches of park-like forest, emerging upon the dizzy -brink of the Caon with magnificent outlooks over chasm and river to -distant mountains and cloud-piled sky. If you enjoy walking, it is -pleasant to do this trip one way in the public coach and the other afoot -by way of Rowe's Well. The Hermit Rim Road ends at the head of a -comparatively new trail to the river, a sort of trail _de luxe_, 4 feet -wide and protected by a stone wall very reassuring to the apprehensive. -As on the Bright Angel trail, there is a plateau midway. Here a public -camp is maintained, where accommodations for an over-night stay may be -had. From this camp to the river must be done afoot--an easy grade, it -is said, but I cannot speak from personal knowledge. There is a trail -connecting the lower portions of Hermit and Bright Angel trails, so that -one may go to the river by one route and return by the other. This -consumes 3 days ordinarily, and must be taken as a camping trip with its -concomitant ups and downs. It is hardly to be recommended to any but the -reasonably robust--and good natured! - -Grand View Point, 13 miles east of El Tovar--a beautiful drive that may -be done by motor car through the Coconino Forest--is the terminus of the -old-time stage route from Flagstaff. The view at the point is perhaps -the finest of all--quite different from that at El Tovar and more -extended: owing to the greater width between the main walls of the -Caon; to the fact that the river here makes a sharp turn to the north; -and the further fact that the relative lowness of the eastern wall of -the bend opens up a vista towards the desert, which at El Tovar is -hidden. The Grand View round trip with a look-around at Grand View Point -may be done in half a day from El Tovar, but if one can afford to give a -day or two to it, the material is here to be worth the extra time. Here -is a hotel to care for you. Particularly of interest is the trail to -Moran Point, some half dozen miles to the east, an exquisite outlook and -the view point of Thomas Moran's famous picture of the Caon which -occupies a place in the Capitol at Washington. There is a trail down to -the river from Grand View Point, and another by way of Red Caon, -heading a little to the west of Moran Point. A connecting trail at the -bottom of the Caon makes it possible to descend by one trail and return -by the other, if one goes prepared to camp by the river. There are, by -the way, several varieties of fish in the Colorado, one, the so-called -Colorado salmon,[81] being a good table fish, though the catching -involves no sport, as it is not gamey. - -The Grand Caon may be visited at any season, though in winter there is -often snow upon the rim and upper levels. Usually there is not enough to -interfere seriously with reaching the various points of interest; and as -one descends into the gorge, one soon passes out of wintry into warmer -and still warmer conditions. Even in December some flowers will be -blooming in the bottom of the Caon. July and August constitute the -usual summer rainy season, when frequent thunderstorms are to be -expected, particularly in the afternoons. They are usually of short -duration. The atmospheric effects accompanying and succeeding them are -often magnificent.[82] - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - MONTEZUMA'S CASTLE AND WELL, WHICH MONTEZUMA NEVER SAW - - -If you happen never to have speculated in copper or archaeology and are -not a Southwesterner, it is quite likely that you have not heard of the -Verde Valley. It is a somewhat sinuous cleft up and down the very center -of Arizona, holding in its heart the Verde River (_el Rio Verde_, or -Green River, of the Spaniards) which has its source under the San -Francisco Peaks, and after 150 miles or so through cramped caons and -sunny bottomlands of more or less fertility, joins the Salt River about -50 miles east of the latter's junction with the Gila. On the western -edge of its upper reaches are the smelter towns of Clarkdale and -Jerome,[83] and the famous copper mines of the United Verde Company. -Across the valley from these, to the eastward and bordering the great -Mogollon Mesa that divides the basin of the Little Colorado and the -Gila, is that Red Rock country referred to in a previous chapter, -together with the Verde's beautiful tributary, Oak Creek; while some 30 -miles to the south there enters the Verde another stream called Beaver -Creek. It is upon the latter the scene of this present chapter is laid. - -[Illustration] - - OLD GOVERNOR'S PALACE, SANTA FE, N. M. - - The center for three centuries of the political life of New Mexico, - under the successive regimes of Spaniard, Indian, Mexican and - American. - -[Illustration] - - MONTEZUMA'S CASTLE - - Near Camp Verde, Arizona. A beautiful specimen of prehistoric Cliff - architecture, with which, however, Montezuma had nothing to do. - -Today the valley of the Verde maintains but a sparse population. Here -and there is a white man's hamlet; here and there are wickiups of the -now peaceable Apaches; and where, between the cliffs that wall in much -of the valley, there is level land enough to make farming operations -possible, there are scattering ranches strung along. Time was, however, -when the valley was the home of an abounding aboriginal population. How -long ago that was no one knows, further than that it was before--and -probably long before--the 16th century Spaniards discovered the Upper -Verde and reported silver outcroppings there. The bordering cliffs and -hilltops are dotted and honeycombed with the ruins of pueblos, stone -fortresses and cave dwellings to an extent that has made the region -unusually attractive to the archaeologists. Two of these prehistoric -remains on Beaver Creek hold especial interest also for the lay -traveler. They are the so-called Casa Montezuma, or Montezuma's Castle, -and Montezuma's Well. The former, a strikingly fine example of a cliff -ruin as imposing in its way as a castle on the Rhine, has been made a -National Monument and is under such protection of the United States -government as goes with a printed notice tacked upon a tree nearby, for -there is no resident guardian. The Well is upon a private ranch 8 miles -north of the Castle. It need hardly be said that Montezuma, whose name -is popularly joined to both, had nothing whatever to do with either; nor -indeed had any Aztec, though people who get their ancient history from -newspapers, will tell you that the ruins are of Aztec construction. Both -Castle and Well are close to the Arizona State Highway, and may be -reached by a 50 or 60 mile drive from Flagstaff, or half that from -Jerome. Another way to reach them is from Prescott by automobile livery. -Yet another is by rail from Prescott to Cherry Creek (Dewey Postoffice) -on the Crown King branch of the Santa Fe, and then by auto-stage through -the picturesque Cherry Creek Caon 32 miles to Campe Verde on the Verde -River. Campe Verde was formerly an army post of importance during the -Apache wars, but is now peaceful enough for the most pacific, -maintaining a hotel, a garage, a barber shop, an ice-cream and soda-pop -saloon, a store or two, and similar amenities of 20th century living as -delightful as unexpected in this out-of-the-way corner of our country. - -And I think here is as good a place as any to say a word about the -modern Southwestern mail stage. It is, of course, motor-driven in this -mechanical age, and lacks the peculiar dash and picturesqueness of the -4- and 6-horse vehicles of other days. Nevertheless, much of the charm -that enveloped western stage travel then clings to the modern -auto-stage. There is the same immersion in glorious, wild scenery; the -same thrill of excitement as you spin down mountain grades and around -curves with a caon yawning hungrily beside you; the same exhilaration -of association with fellow passengers of types foreign to Broadway or La -Salle Street; many times there is the same driver, who, surrendering the -ribbon for a steering wheel, has not at all changed his nature. The seat -beside him is still the premium place, and if he takes a fancy to you, -he will exude information, anecdote and picturesque fiction as freely as -a spring its refreshing waters. To travel a bit by stage, when occasion -offers, gives a flavor to your Southwestern outing that you will be -sorry to have missed. Besides, it sometimes saves you money and time. - -From Camp Verde to Montezuma's Castle is a pleasant 3 mile jaunt. Of -course you may miss the trail, as I did, and walk six, but if you keep -close to Beaver Creek, with a sharp eye ahead, you can detect the ruin -from nearly a mile away, snugly ensconced high up in a niche of a pale -cliff, overlooking the valley. It is a comparatively small ruin, but -there is a charm in its very compactness. And there is the charm, too, -of color, the general tone of the buildings being pink set in a framing -of white. The base is about 75 feet above the level of the creek that -flows at the foot of the cliff--flows, that is, when water happens to be -in it, which is not always. The structure itself is perhaps 30 feet -high, with substantial squared walls of masonry, and is in 5 stories, -access from one to another being either by openings in the ceilings or -by modern ladders fastened against the outside walls. How the ancients -managed the ascent from the ground, there is none to tell us. An -interesting feature is a bowed parapet or battlement (the height of -one's shoulder), which surmounts the fourth story, and from below hides -the fifth story rooms which are placed well back against the innermost -part of the cliff recess and roofed by its overhang. Be sure you climb -to that battlemented upper story (it will be no easy job, for you have -to swing yourself up to it through the ceiling of the fourth), and -leaning upon the parapet, enjoy the solitude that stretches before -you--from the sycamores lining Beaver Creek at the cliff's foot, across -the mesquite-dotted mesa, and the green bottomlands of the Verde to the -long purple range of the Black Hills in the dim southwest. If any sound -there be, it is the whisper of the wind in the trees far below, or the -cooing of the wild doves, which haunt the place. So do bats, and a -certain queer acidulous smell that pervades the rooms is attributable to -them. As you walk about, your feet stir up the dust of ages. Here and -there on the mud-plastered walls are human finger prints dried in the -material when it was laid on by prehistoric hands. In some of the rooms, -particularly in certain cave dwellings (which, following the natural -ledges, you will find scooped out of the tufa cliff beside the Castle), -the ceiling and walls are blackened still with soot from the smoke of -pre-Columbian fires. You may pick up bits of pottery, as you stroll, -corn-cobs wizened of the ages, broken metates, or malpais rubbing -stones, mute reminders of the human drama once enacted here. The airy -battlement is pierced with downward-pointing loopholes through which -arrows were doubtless shot at foes below. It is this abounding and -evident human touch, this mystery of a long vanished human life, that -lends to Southwestern travel a unique fascination, reaching to something -in us that is not awakened by purely natural aspects more sublime but -disassociated from man. In spite of the fact that men will kill one -another, mistreat, enslave and exploit one another, men never lose a -supreme interest in men; stronger than all is the yearning of the human -heart for other human hearts. Is it love outwearing love's antithesis? - -Montezuma's Well is 8 miles further up Beaver Creek, and is reached by a -public highway quite practicable for automobiles when the fords of the -creek are not running high water. You pass a ranch every mile or so, and -the Well itself is found to be situated inside the wire fences of one. -After the hospitable and unexacting solitude of Montezuma's Castle, you -will experience a bit of a shock, perhaps, at the fences and in finding -that a fee of half a dollar is imposed for entrance to the Well. -Nevertheless the sight is worth the money. Proceeding from the ranch -house across an eighth of a mile of open, treeless mesa, you come quite -without warning, to a crater-like[84] opening 500 feet across, yawning -at your feet. Its walls drop almost perpendicularly some 60 feet or more -to a round pool of clear water steel blue, except around the margins, -where accumulations of pondweed give it a brown tinge. There is a -precipitous, stony trail down which you may pick your way to the water's -edge; and there, as in the bottom of a colossal mush-bowl, you are hid -from the world and the world from you. Catclaw and wild grape, hackberry -and wild walnut and salt-bush make a scrubby cover roundabout, with -datura and cleome and blooming wild tobacco adding a flower-touch. There -is here as at Montezuma's Castle a peculiar sense of loneliness and -silence--broken only by an occasional bird note, or the hum of vagabond -bees. In the clear, still waters of the pool are reflections of the -cliffs, and raising your eyes to them you recognize in the southern side -a few squat little stone houses wedged in between the strata of the rock -walls. You can, if you choose, easily climb to some of them, and -stooping through the small doorways get a taste of what it was like to -be a cliff dweller. At the north end of the pond there is a thicket of -willows and cottonwoods, and there the waters find their exit by an -underground passage that would lead them into Beaver Creek (which flows -beyond the hill) were it not that they are diverted to irrigate the -ranch lands. Near this place of disappearance, is a very interesting -feature of the Well--a series of natural caverns reaching far back under -the hill, forming an irregular dwelling of many rooms, with occasional -bits of built-in wall of mud-plastered stone. Upon such a wall at the -very entrance of the cavern is the tiny imprint of a child's hand, left -we must suppose, by some prehistoric toddler steadying itself--how many, -many centuries ago, who can tell?--against the freshly plastered -surface, just as a baby, uncertain of its feet, would do to-day. At the -time Mr. Chas. F. Lummis wrote his fascinating volume, "Some Strange -Corners of our Country," and described Montezuma's Castle and Well, the -precious imprint was perfect; but some witless latter-day visitor has -pecked out the palm with his vandal jack-knife, destroying in a moment -what Time, the arch-destroyer, had respected for centuries. Still the -marks of the baby fingers were left when I visited the place a year ago -and I hope still are, to link the fancy tenderly with that ancient -people, our elder brethren. - -The proprietor of the Well, Mr. W. B. Back, will guide you about and -light you into the cavern's recesses, piloting you with a lantern -through passages so low and narrow at times that you must go almost on -hands and knees until he brings you, far within, into a spacious and -utterly dark rock-chamber with a stream of living water coursing -musically through it, where further investigation is barred. He will -also transport you in an anachronous row-boat across the bosom of the -Well. It seems the soundings deepen suddenly from 80 feet at the outer -part to 500 feet and no bottom at the center. There the water rises as -in a funnel from its unknown source. At the outlet beyond the hill the -waters gush from beneath a high, darkling cliff in an impetuous stream -that varies little in volume throughout the year, the measurement being -about 112 miner's inches. Your guide takes you there, too (passing on -the way the ruins of an ancient pueblo that once occupied the mesa near -the Well's edge), and you will enjoy the sight of that brisk little -torrent fringed with a riot of maiden-hair fern and columbine, and -darkened by the shadows from huge sycamores that foregather about it. -The ancient Well-dweller, knew perfectly the value of that water and led -it by ditches, the remains of which you may yet see, to irrigate their -corn- and bean-fields a mile away. Apaches, who within recent years have -been the only Indians dwelling in the region, profess no knowledge of -the people who built the houses here. Mr. Back (who, by the way, in 1889 -filed as a homesteader on the land about the Well including the Well -itself as a water right) informed me that the Apaches regard the place -with disfavor. "_Aqua no 'ueno_," one old man told him, "water no good. -Long time ago, you _sabe_, three Indian _mujeres_ all same women, you -_sabe_, she swim out in water, and go round and round, you _sabe_, in -the middle, and by 'em by, she go down, all three. Never come back. No, -no--_no 'ueno_." The water is warmish, but quite drinkable--if you can -forget about those Apache ladies who are still in it. - -It would seem reasonable that so remarkable a natural phenomenon as is -the Well, situated in a region as populous with aborigines as the Verde -Valley once was, would have a place in Indian folk lore; and as a matter -of fact Dr. J. W. Fewkes[85] has learned that the Hopis know of its -existence, and claim it as the home of some of their ancestors. -Moreover, the tales of some of their old men indicate that they regard -the place as the house of the Plumed Serpent, a divinity peculiarly dear -to the desert dwelling Hopis of today, as the guardian of the waters and -springs. Indeed, it is, perhaps, as a shrine of the divine that the Well -is most truly to be considered; and in view of the extensive pueblo that -once flourished on the rim, it may be that the houses of the Well walls -were used in connection with religious observances rather than as a -habitation of the common people. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - SAN ANTONIO - - -If you are a Southwesterner, born or naturalized, returning from a visit -"back East," your spirits rise with a jump when the trainmen call out -"San Antone!" For this is the frontier of your own dear country, and you -feel the thrill that goes with getting home again and being among your -own people. Dusty and a bit down at the heel in spots is San Antonio, -you think? Yes, son, but it is picturesque; and there are adobes and -Mexicans, Stetson hats and cart-wheel dollars once more, and it is where -the Southwest begins, if you are westbound on the S. P. - -San Antonio more than anywhere else in Texas has an Old World -atmosphere. The former Spanish capital of the province, there are parts -of it that impart to the visitor much the same feeling that Monterey, -that other Spanish capital, gives him in California--the feeling that -_may be_ this is the United States, but it needs to be demonstrated. Of -course, being a city of 100,000 people and commercially important, it -has its well-groomed, American side, but unless you are in San Antonio -merely in quest of health and comfort,[86] it is not that spick-and-span -side that appeals to your traveler's taste. You will prefer those -streets, irregular and even unpaved (often their Spanish names still -clinging to them), of the older quarters, where cracked one-storied -adobes in open sunshine, elbow stately old tree-embowered mansions, -whose tangled gardens seem to hide in their unkempt corners untold -romances. You will like the Mexican quarter with its queer little shops, -and the market square with its picturesque crowds of swarthy _peones_, -donkeys and country teams of odd sorts, its squatting street venders of -_tortillas_, cakes, _dulces_, songbooks, religious pictures and -shoe-strings. You will like, too, the bridges over the little river that -winds cosily about through the midst of the town, and the waterside -lawns where trees cast a comfortable shade and summer houses invite to -tea _al fresco_. There are literally dozens of those bridges, with -railings at a convenient height to lean your elbows on and dream away an -idle half-hour. Moreover, you will like the many charming parks and -plazas, where you may sit under a palm tree and enjoy the passing tide -of open-air life and make more acquaintances in half an hour than you -would in New York in a year. - -The Main Plaza is dominated by the cathedral of San Fernando, which -dates from 1738, though little of the original structure remains--most -of the present building having been constructed about half a century -ago. What is left of the original church is in the rear, backing on -another and larger square, the old _Plaza de Armas_, or Military Plaza -as it is now called. - -Modern San Antonio has risen out of the consolidation of the presidio of -San Antonio de Bjar, the Mission of Antonio de Valero (both mission and -presidio founded in 1718) and the _villa_--a form of Spanish -municipality--of San Fernando, founded in 1730. The Mission, after -abandonment as a religious institution, was turned into a fortress and -barracks, and acquired the name of Alamo.[87] The Church of the Mission -and what is left of the main building of the Fort are the most famous -historical buildings in the city. They face on the Alamo Plaza, and are -of such unique interest as to draw, in themselves, many visitors to San -Antonio; for they are in a sense to Texas what Faneuil Hall is to New -England, the cradle of its liberty. Late in 1835, when Texas was still a -part of Mexico, San Antonio was stormed and captured by a band of -insurgent American-Texans under the leadership of "Old Ben" Milam, who -was killed in the fight. (You will see his statue in Milam Square, if -you are interested enough to look it up). The Alamo, which was well -outside the San Antonio of those days, was surrendered with the city. -Here the Texans later entrenched themselves, and in February and March -of the following year were besieged for 12 days by 4000 Mexicans under -General Santa Ana. Of the Texans, there were less than 200, including -some women and children. Refusing to surrender, every man of them was -killed in the final assault upon the place, the only survivors -(according to H. H. Bancroft) being 3 women, 2 children and one negro -boy servant. "Remember the Alamo" became the war-cry of the Texans in -the subsequent struggle that ended in the independence of the province. - -The little Alamo Church and part of the main building that we see -to-day, form only a small portion of the establishment that existed in -1836 and was occupied by the Texan defenders. Besides this church part -(now maintained as a public monument) there was the large two-story -_convento_-fortress divided into rooms and used as armory and barracks, -part of which now exists and is cared for by the State of Texas; also a -prison building and courtyard; the whole covering between 2 and 3 acres. -Prominent among the Alamo defenders was that picturesque character and -popular Southwestern hero, Davy Crockett. Another was James Bowie, to -whom many authorities attribute the invention of the famous knife that -bears the Bowie name, but Bancroft says it was Rezin Bowie, a brother of -James, who originated it. These and others of the participants in the -Texan war of independence are commemorated in the names of streets, -parks and public houses throughout the city. As for the Alamo, it is -bait in all sorts of business ventures--giving name to saloons, -suspenders, grocery stores, restaurants, lodging houses and what not. - -Next to the Alamo, the sightseer (unless an enthusiasm for matters -military takes him straight to San Antonio's famous army post, Sam -Houston), will find worth while a visit to the old Franciscan Missions, -now in ruins, that are strung along the San Antonio River to the south -of the city. There are four of these, the first about 2 miles from the -Alamo, the rest at similar intervals of a couple of miles. Americans -have got in the way of calling them, in numerical fashion, First, -Second, Third and Fourth Missions, respectively, to the neglect of their -fine old Spanish names. The First, which is on the southern outskirts of -the city, and may be reached by a moderate walk from a street car line, -is the Mission _Nuestra Seora de la Pursima Concepcion de Acua_ (Our -Lady of the Immaculate Conception, of Acua). From quite a distance one -catches sight of its twin square towers with pyramidal tops and its high -dome peeping above a tangle of mesquite, chinnaberry and pecan trees, -and sprawling juisache bushes. A Mexican family lives in an end of the -ruined _convento_ part, and a small fee is charged for showing the -inside of the church and permitting you to climb the belfry for a fine -view over the country. The faade is interesting with much curious -sculpturing. The knotted cord of St. Francis winds above the austere -polygonal "arch" of the doorway, upon which is this Spanish inscription: -_A su patrono y princessa con estas armas atiende esta mission y -defiende el_ _punto de su pureza_. (With these arms this Mission attends -her Patroness and Princess and defends the state of her immaculateness.) -This is an obvious allusion to the controversy long maintained among -old-time theologians concerning the dogma of the Virgin Mary's -immaculate conception--a doctrine defended and preached by the -Franciscans from the first. In the corners immediately above the arch -are two medallions, the one bearing an unusual form of the Franciscan -Order's coat-of-arms--the Saviour's naked arm and the sleeved arm of St. -Francis nailed together to the Cross; the other carved in the semblance -of five blood-drops, to symbolize perhaps the stigmata of St. Francis. -Upon the keystone is another elaborate embellishment now much worn by -the elements. The central figure of this is plainly representative of -the consecrated elements in the Lord's Supper--a slender Spanish chalice -surmounted by the Sacred Host. Worn figures at the sides of the chalice -may have represented clouds or adoring angels. The whole carving of the -keystone obviously typifies the Church's missionary purpose. The front -was once gaily frescoed in red, yellow, blue and orange; but Time's -remorseless hand has fallen heavily on that. Begun in 1731, the building -was not completed until 1752. After Mexican independence from Spain was -accomplished, this Mission as well as the others, was abandoned and was -not infrequently used by both Mexican and United States troops for -barracks and stables. Some 30 years ago Bishop Neraz of San Antonio had -La Pursima Concepcion cleared of rubbish and re-dedicated to Our Lady -of Lourdes.[88] - -[Illustration] - - SAN JOS DE AGUAYO - - The sculptured window of this old Franciscan Mission near San - Antonio, Texas, is widely famed for its refined beauty. - -[Illustration] - - SAN XAVIER DEL BAC, ARIZONA. - - Though largely restored, this survival of early 17th-century - missionary effort, is one of the most interesting antiquities of its - class in the United States. - -The Second Mission, properly called San Jos de Aguayo, was the first -founded of the four, dating from 1720. It was 11 years a-building, and -the date of its completion, March 5, 1731, seems to have determined the -beginning of the remaining three Missions in the chain, all of which -were founded on their present sites in that same year.[89] It was in its -day the most flourishing of the Texas Missions, as, in its ruins, it is -the most beautiful. The builder indulged to the uttermost his love of -florid carving, and the broken faade of the roofless church is a marvel -of ornate sculpturing--of saints, life size or in bust, cherubs' heads -and flaming hearts, volutes and arabesques and conchoids innumerable. -But it is good sculpture and an amazing thing that it should have been -wrought to the glory of God in that wilderness of what was Northern -Mexico, near two centuries ago. Doubtless it was the work of some -artisan (I have read that his name was Juan Huisar) brought up from Old -Mexico where such ecclesiastical art was encouraged from the beginning -of the Spanish occupation; and for assistants Indians were employed. -Around the corner from this front is a window in the baptistry that -makes you exclaim for the beauty of it, so exquisite is it in its -sculptured setting, so delicate and of so simple loveliness is its -_reja_, or grating of wrought iron. And about it in the broken chinks of -crumbling masonry is a fern garden of Nature's own sowing, of a sort -that thrives in the sunshine and aridity of the Southwest and nowhere -else, a species that botanists call _Notholaena sinuata_. The Mission is -quite abandoned now save for an occasional service at a modest little -altar in one room. A neighboring Mexican family has the key and supplies -a guide. - -These two Missions are usually all the hurrying tourist sees; but an -hour more, if you are in an automobile, is enough to afford a glance at -the other two, which, if less interesting, are still a pleasant -adventure. The Third (6 miles from San Antonio) is Mission _San Juan -Capistrano_ (Saint John of Capistrano, in Italy), and the Fourth is _San -Francisco de la Espada_ (Saint Francis of the Sword). The last has -undergone some restoration to fit it for the resident priest, who -ministers to a Mexican flock quartered roundabout. The entire round of -the Missions can be easily done by motor car in half a day; but take a -day to it, if you can spare the time, picnic somewhere by the river, and -do the beautiful old places with leisure and reverence. Surely one can -do worse things, to quote Sidney Lanier, "than to steal out here from -town ... and dream back the century and a half of strange, lonesome, -devout, hymn-haunted and Indian-haunted years that have trailed past -these walls." - -Annually during the last week of April, there is held in San Antonio an -open air carnival called the Fiesta San Jacinto. The name commemorates -the decisive battle of San Jacinto, fought April 21, 1836, between -Mexicans and Texans, and ending the War of Texan Independence. Elaborate -celebrations mark the festival, which is almost as well known in the -Southwest as the New Orleans Mardi Gras. - - NOTE: Readers interested in particulars of the history of the San - Antonio Missions will be repaid by consulting the valuable work of - Miss Adina DeZavala, entitled: "History and Legends of The Alamo and - Other Missions in and Around San Antonio." - - - - - CHAPTER XV - IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GIANT CACTUS - - -There are two Arizonas. There is that wide, breezy plateau region of the -north, a mile and more above sea level, where our travels so far have -been; and there is the much lower desert region of the south slanting -downward from the Gila River to Sonoran Mexico, from which country there -is little to distinguish it physically. This desert region, known to the -Spaniards as Pimera Alta (that is, the upper country of the Pima -Indians), was the only portion of what was afterwards called Arizona to -possess a white population until several years after our Mexican War. -The tourist to-day penetrates it in two general ways. Near the Mexican -frontier the Southern Pacific transcontinental line traverses it, -passing through Yuma and Tucson and reaching up to Phoenix by a branch -from Maricopa. From the north a branch of the Santa Fe system runs -southward from Ash Fork through Prescott directly to Phoenix. - -Phoenix is the State capital, a very modern little city dating from -1817, with a population of perhaps 20,000. There is a touch of poetry in -the name, which was given to symbolize the rising of a new civilization -from the ashes of that prehistoric culture the evidences of whose -existence cover so much of Southern Arizona. Here, where 50 years ago -was pure desert lorded over by the giant Sahuaro--that huge tree-cactus -which is Arizona's State emblem--we find today surrounding Phoenix a -pleasant land of ranches watered by full irrigation canals flowing in -the shade of palms and cottonwoods, where besides the common staples of -potatoes, corn and alfalfa, there is the exotic grace of the orange and -the fig, the olive, the date and the apricot. This is the valley of the -Salt River, whose waters are impounded by the huge Roosevelt Dam, some -80 miles east of Phoenix. Travelers desirous of studying desert -reclamation will find Phoenix a good center for their observations. - -If you value your personal comfort, the time to visit Phoenix is between -November and May. During the rest of the year the weather normally is -remorselessly hot to the unacclimated. My own acquaintance with the city -began in August. In a hazy way I had noticed something unaccustomed -about the look of the population, the men particularly, but failed to -analyze it until a sociable street car conductor remarked to me, -"Stranger here?" "Yes," said I, "my first day." "We always know -strangers right away," he continued. "You see, they wear their coats." -Then I took a fresh look around and though it was a fairly crowded -street, I failed to see a man who was not in his shirt sleeves. The -winter and early spring, however, are delicious with the peculiar purity -and dryness of the desert air to which a touch of frost at night may -give added vitality. - -That interesting 120 mile automobile highway called the Apache Trail -finds at Phoenix its western terminus. Its eastern end is at Globe, a -mining town on modern lines in the center of a rich copper district.[90] -This point is connected by rail with Bowie, 124 miles distant, on the -Southern Pacific Railway. Transcontinental travelers by this route, -either east- or west-bound, are now given the opportunity of varying -their trip by taking this motor drive over the Apache Trail, linking up -with the train again at the point of ending. The feature of the motor -trip, which consumed 9 to 12 hours, is the chance it yields the traveler -to get a more intimate acquaintance with the Arizona countryside than is -possible from a car window. Mines and cattle ranges, stupendous caons, -strange rock-sculpturings in glowing colors, the desert with its -entrancing vistas, its grotesque and often beautiful plant-life, even a -glimpse of prehistoric ruins--all this the drive affords; and to it is -added the impressive sight of the Roosevelt Dam with its beautiful, -winding driveway upon the breast and its exhibition of man-made -waterfalls and 30-mile lake, an unoffended Nature looking indulgently -down from surrounding precipices and mountain crests and seeming to say, -"Son, not so bad." There is a hotel at the Dam, on a promontory -overlooking the water--and in the water bass and "salmon" are said to -be. A stop-over here is necessary if you wish to visit the Cliff -Dwellings, 5 miles to the eastward, officially known as the Tonto -National Monument. - -The Apache Trail detour cuts the traveler out of stopping off at one of -the most interesting little cities of the Southwest--Tucson.[91] It may -be that not all will find this oasis town, lapped in the desert and girt -about with low mountains, as much to their liking as I do, but I believe -it possesses features worth going back on one's tracks to see; for it -has a decided character of its own. With an out-and-out modern American -side, there is the grace of an historic past, whose outward and visible -sign is a picturesque Spanish quarter in adobe, pink, blue and glaring -white, clustering about a sleepy old plaza and trailing off through a -fringe of Indian _ranchera_ to the blazing desert. The region -roundabout is associated with pretty much all the history that Arizona -had until it became part of the United States. The Santa Cruz Valley, in -which Tucson lies, was a highway of travel during three centuries -between Old Mexico and the Spanish settlements and Missions of Pimera -Alta. Through this valley or the neighboring one of San Pedro (there is -a difference of opinion on this point), Brother Marcos de Niza, the -first white man to put foot in Arizona, must have passed in 1539 on his -way to Zui's Seven Cities; and this way, the following year, came -Coronado upon the expedition that made of New Mexico a province of -Spain. A century later the region was the scene of the spiritual labors -of Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino, a devoted Jesuit missionary to the -Indians--a man of mark in his time, to whom is credited the founding of -the Spanish Mission San Francisco Xavier del Bac, about 9 miles south of -Tucson. The present beautiful structure, however (Tucson's crack sight -for tourists), was not erected until long after Padre Kino's day. - -San Xavier is, in itself, worth a stop-over at Tucson. You may make the -round trip from the railway station in a couple of hours by automobile, -getting en route a taste of genuine desert scenery, with its scattered -covering of creosote bush, mesquite, cat's claw, ocotillo and sahuaro. -The Mission building is one of the most beautiful examples of Spanish -ecclesiastical architecture in our country; and the pure white -structure, lonely in the desert, its glistening walls and stately towers -and dome silhouetted against a sapphire sky, makes a striking sight, -oriental in its suggestion. The church part is still used for religious -services, and other portions form the residence of Sisters of a Catholic -order who conduct a school for the children of the Papago Indians. The -primitive habitations of the latter, scattered about within easy access -of the Mission, are the Mission's only near neighbors. A small fee -admits one to the church. A feature of interest at the front is the -coat-of-arms in relief of the Order of Saint Francis of Assisi.[92] This -is evidence enough that the present structure, which was begun in 1783 -and finished in 1797, was erected by Franciscans, although, as already -stated, the Mission itself was founded about a century previously by -Jesuits. In 1768 and for ten succeeding years, the resident missionary -at San Xavier was Padre Francisco Garcs, one of the most remarkable -characters in the Southwest's history. An enthusiastic young priest in -his early thirties when he came to San Xavier, and possessed of a -powerful physique, he journeyed on foot up and down the valleys of the -Gila and the Colorado (even penetrating into California and to the Hopi -village of Oraibi), tirelessly searching out Indians, and preaching to -them Christ and the gospel of reconciliation. He was indeed the original -Christian Pacifist of the Southwest, urging upon the Indian tribes -everywhere that they should settle their differences peaceably and live -together as brothers. To prove his faith he would never suffer a -military escort to accompany him in his wilderness pioneering, but took -only an Indian companion or two as interpreter, and a mule to carry his -ecclesiastical impedimenta. Neither would he bear any weapon for -defense, but went "equipped only with charity and apostolic zeal."[93] -His kindly, joyous character, so endeared him to the aborigines, that, -as he himself records, a village would often refuse to supply him a -guide to the next tribe, wanting to keep him for themselves. Under such -circumstances, he would set out alone. He was a rare puzzle to those -barbarians, both because they found it difficult to decide whether in -his long gown and clean-shaven face he was man or woman, and because he -strangely wanted nothing of them but the chance to give them a free -passport to Heaven--an inexplicable sort of white man, indeed! - -While on your Mission pilgrimage, it will be worth while to continue -southward some 50 miles more to Mission San Jos de Tumaccori. The road -is fairly good and about 7 hours will suffice for the round from Tucson -by automobile; or the train may be taken on the Nogales branch of the -Southern Pacific to Tubac station, whence a walk southward a couple of -miles brings you to the Mission.[94] The buildings, mostly of adobe, are -in ruins and very picturesque with a domed sanctuary and a huge square -belfry, now broken and dismantled. They and a few acres surrounding them -now form the Tumaccori National Monument, under the care of the United -States Government. This Mission in the wilderness was once, next to San -Xavier, the most important in what is now Arizona. It was established by -Jesuits in 1754, though the present church building is of Franciscan -structure of much later date, having been completed in 1822, replacing -one destroyed by the ceaselessly raiding Apaches.[95] Of interest, too, -in this vicinity, is the ancient village of Tubac, 2 miles north of -Tumaccori. Here in the 18th century was a Spanish presidio thought -needful for supplementing the preaching of the friars by the argument of -the sword. To Californians and those interested in the history of the -Golden State, the place has an appeal because here during several years -Don Juan Bautista Anza was commandant--the sturdy soldier who conceived -the idea of a practicable overland route from Mexico across the deserts -to the Spanish settlements on the California coast, and in 1775-6 -convoyed over this route the colonists who founded San Francisco. Today -Tubac is an unpretentious little adobe hamlet sprawling about a -gravelly, sunny knoll, and looking across the Santa Cruz River with its -fringe of billowy cottonwoods to the blue line of the Santa Rita and San -Gaetano ranges. At Rosy's Caf I got a modest but comforting luncheon, -and on your way to Tumaccori you, too, might do worse. - -West of Tucson 65 miles is the little town of Casa Grande, which takes -its name from one of the most famous prehistoric ruins in the United -States, standing about 18 miles to the northeast, near the Gila River. -If you have a taste for prehistoric architecture, you will enjoy Casa -Grande, for it is _sui generis_ among our country's antiquities. If, on -the other hand, you are just an ordinary tourist, you must decide for -yourself whether a half day's motor trip across the desert to see a -ruinous, cubical mud house topped with a corrugated iron roof, in the -midst of a sunburnt wilderness, will or will not be worth your while. -What touches the fancy is that here, centuries doubtless before Columbus -(perhaps before the time of the Cliff Dwellers) dwelt and toiled an -unknown people whose remains are of a type that possesses important -points of difference from those found elsewhere within the limits of the -United States, though similar ruins exist in Mexico. Casa Grande is -Spanish for Great House, and is given to this ruin because its -outstanding feature is a huge block of a building of three or four -stories in height, and thick walls of _caliche_--a mixture of mud, lime -and pebbles molded into form and dried, somewhat as modern concrete -walls are built up. The unique character of the Casa Grande caused it to -be set aside 25 years ago as a National Monument, and important work has -since been done there by Government ethnologists, in the way of -strengthening and repairing the crumbling walls and cleaning up the -rooms. Extensive excavations have also been made close by, resulting in -uncovering the foundations of a numerous aggregation of houses plazas, -enclosing walls, etc. These reveal the fact that in some age the place -was a walled city of importance, even if it was of mud--a sort of -American Lutetia, to which Fate denied the glory of becoming a Paris. -The huge building in the center--the Casa Grande--probably served partly -as a religious temple, but principally as a citadel where in time of -attack by enemies the people took refuge. Access to the upper stories -was doubtless by ladders outside, as in modern pueblos. Indeed, this is -but one of several walled-in compounds of buildings that formerly -existed in the Gila Valley, and are now but shapeless heaps of earth. -Some of these close to the main Casa Grande ruin have been excavated and -their plan laid bare. The remains of an extensive irrigation system are -still in evidence, water having been drawn from the Gila. - -The first white man of unimpeachable record to see Casa Grande was that -Padre Eusebio Kino, of whom we heard at San Xavier and who gave the ruin -its Spanish name. He learned of it from his Indians, and in 1694 visited -the place, saying mass in one of its rooms. There is some reason to -identify the spot with Chichiticale, or Red House, a ruin noted in the -reports of Fray Marcos de Niza and of Coronado, both of whom probably -passed not far from Casa Grande on their way to Zui, but most scholars -now reject this theory of identity. After Kino the ruin was frequently -examined by explorers and written about up to the American occupation. -Anza and his San Francisco colonists camped a few miles distant, and the -commandant with his two friars, Padres Garcs and Font, inspected the -place with great interest on October 31, 1775. Font in his diary gives a -circumstantial account of it, calling it _La Casa de Moctezuma_ -(Montezuma's House), and narrates a tradition of the neighboring Pima -Indians as to its origin. It seems[96] that long ago, nobody knows how -long, there came to that neighborhood an old man of so harsh and crabbed -a disposition that he was called Bitter Man (_el Hombre 'Amargo_, in -Padre Font's version). With him were his daughter and son-in-law, and -for servants he had the Storm Cloud and the Wind. Until then the land -had been barren, but Bitter Man had with him seeds which he sowed, and -with the help of the two servants abundant crops grew year after year, -and were harvested. It was these people who built the Great House, and -they dwelt there, though not without quarrels because of Bitter Man's -character, so that even Storm Cloud and Wind left him at times, but they -came back. After many years, however, all went away--whither, who -knows--and were heard of no more forever. - -Casa Grande may also be reached by conveyance from Florence on the -Arizona Eastern Railway, from which point it is distant a dozen miles or -so. Owing to the extreme summer heat of this desert country, the trip to -the ruin is most comfortably made in the late autumn, winter or early -spring. There is a resident care-taker who acts as guide. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA - - -"Shall they say of you, you have been to Rome and not seen the Pope?" -Yet that is what will be said if you turn back at the Colorado River and -leave Southern California out of your Southwestern travels. However, few -people do that. The fear is that in their haste to reach that tourist -playground, they may neglect too much of what the preceding chapters -have dwelt upon. Intent upon seeing the Pope, they may do scant justice -to Rome. - -By Southern California is meant California south of the Tehchapi -Mountains and their western prolongation ending in Santa Barbara County -at the sea. It is not a political division, but Nature's--in its -physical aspect differing quite markedly from Central and Northern -California. Long regarded with a sort of mild contempt by the Americans -who settled Central California and who habitually spoke of the South as -"the cow counties," Southern California has in the last quarter century -attained a reputation not short of gilt-edged. Lonely, treeless plains -and valleys and brush-clad mesas that a comparatively few years ago were -counted desert and good for nothing except for cattle ranges and sheep -runs, have become, with the development of water, pleasant lands of -fruitfulness supporting a numerous and progressive population. The -extensive cultivation of the orange, the lemon, the fig, the grape, the -English walnut, the apricot, the olive; the planting of the eucalyptus, -the palm and a hundred kinds of exotic shade and ornamental trees; the -dotting of the landscape with villas of a distinguished sort of -architecture patterned on Italian and Spanish models--all this has -wrought a transformation that makes even more appropriate today than 25 -years ago the sobriquet of "Our Italy" given the region by Charles -Dudley Warner. - -Here wealthy Easterners maintain winter homes as they keep summer -estates on the Atlantic Coast, and less well-to-do folk--retired -farmers, tradesmen or professional people--buy a bungalow and settle -down to the enjoyment of a good climate and the luxury of having roses -and green peas in their winter gardens. Not only Americans but those of -other nationalities have discovered that Southern California totals a -remarkable number of points in the problem of comfortable living--a -healthful and delightful climate (notably in winter), a fruitful soil -capable of raising everything natural to the temperate zone besides a -large number of things sub-tropical, a beautiful and varied terrain -embracing seaside, valley and mountain, and an admirable system of -capital roads. For the tourist there is not only the attraction of this -beauty and comfort, but there is the drawing of historic interest, -touched with that indefinable sense of romance that attaches wherever -Spain has had a foothold. In Southern California as elsewhere in the -Southwest, that Spanish flavor is very evident, manifested in the -presence of a considerable Spanish-speaking population, in the remains -of Spanish-built Missions and ranch houses, and in the persistence of -Spanish geographic nomenclature. - -The hub of Southern California is Los Angeles, which in a generation has -expanded from a sleepy little half-Spanish pueblo of a few thousand to a -metropolis of half a million, with a taste for the latest in everything -and the money to indulge it. It is the natural center from which to do -one's sightseeing, though Pasadena, adjoining it on the north, is almost -as convenient and, indeed, preferred by many who are not in a hurry and -prefer surroundings more rural. Pasadena is a little city of 40,000, -beautifully situated on a shelving mesa at the base of the Sierra Madre -and overlooking the fertile San Gabriel Valley. It is nationally famous -for its numerous fine estates and the winter residences of wealthy -Easterners; but outside of that it possesses mile upon mile of -tree-lined streets where modest homes of the bungalow type look out from -a setting of vine and shrub and flower. Each New Year's Day the city -becomes the objective of tens of thousands of visitors to view the -Tournament of Roses, an outdoor fiesta whose distinctive feature is a -street floral pageant. - -From Los Angeles lines of transportation radiate to all points of -interest. You have your pick of steam railways, electric lines, -auto-stages and ocean steamers. Hundreds of miles of first class, -hard-surfaced roads make Southern California a motorist's paradise, and -automobiling is here so notable a feature of tourist life that, if -possible, the traveler should make provision for it when packing his -pocket book. Public automobiles are abundant and the prices reasonable -enough, from $1.50 per hour upward, with special rates for trips. If you -are able to club with others for a car, you may find this the cheapest -form of travel. Maps and specific information as to drives may be had at -offices of the Automobile Club of Southern California.[97] - -For those who do not care for motoring or find it too expensive, most of -the desirable points are reached by electric and steam lines, or by -auto-stages. There are several daily excursions scheduled by the Pacific -Electric Railway, which afford at a minimum of expense a satisfactory -means of getting a comprehensive idea of Southern California. One of -these, to Mount Lowe (a prominent peak of the Sierra Madre), may be -substituted for the automobile drive up Mount Wilson. The visit to San -Juan Capistrano Mission may be made by train, the railway station being -close by. There is a resident priest and religious services are -regularly held in one of the restored rooms. The Mission was founded in -1775, and the church part--now a ruin, the result of an earthquake in -1812--marked in its prime the high-tide of Mission architecture in -California. - -The Franciscan Mission establishments in California are among the most -interesting historical monuments of our country; and those of the -southern end of the State remain to-day especially noteworthy. Ten miles -from Los Angeles is Mission San Gabriel (founded in 1771 on the bank of -the Rio Hondo a few miles east of the present site, to which it was -removed in 1775). It was for many years a principal center of -civilization in the province, the settlement antedating the founding of -Los Angeles by several years. Of the original establishment little -remains but the church part, which is in a state of good preservation -and serves as a place of worship for a considerable congregation, -largely of Spanish descent. Mission San Fernando (about 25 miles west of -the heart of Los Angeles) is deserted, save by a caretaker. The fine -corridored _convento_, flush with the highway, is its most conspicuous -feature today, but the Mission was once of notable extent. A cloistered -walk formerly connected the _convento_ with the ruined church in the -rear. If you stroll on past the church to the ancient olive orchard -beyond and look back, having the two date palms there in your -foreground, you will get a charming picture of the noble old temple -where Padre "Napoleon" strove, during a third of the Mission's -existence, to steer his dusky children heavenward. Apropos of these -California Missions (whose plan was quite different from those of New -Mexico and Arizona) it should be borne in mind that originally each -consisted of a huge hollow square of buildings, facing within on an open -courtyard. The church occupied part or all of one side, the other sides -consisting of living rooms for the one or two padres (the _convento_ -part), kitchens, store rooms, shops where the neophytes were taught and -labored, and the _monjerio_ or sleeping apartment of the Indian widows -and unmarried girls of the Mission. Outside this compound were the huts -of the Indian converts, arranged in streets and forming an orderly -village of sometimes a couple of thousand souls.[98] - -South of Los Angeles, 125 miles, is San Diego, reached either by rail, -steamer, or automobile. If the last way is chosen, going and returning -may be done over different highways, one following the coast, the other -running further inland via Riverside. Both roads are excellent. Forty -miles before reaching San Diego, you pass within calling distance of -Mission San Luis Rey (St. Louis, the King)--4 miles east of Oceanside, a -railroad stop where conveyance may be had for the Mission. San Luis Rey -was founded in 1798 and in its proportions rivaled San Juan Capistrano. -It is still an imposing establishment, though restored with rather too -heavy a hand to suit the artistic sense. The situation is charming, on a -knoll in the midst of a noble valley, emerald green in winter and -spring, the San Luis Rey River flowing close by the Mission. A community -of hospitable Franciscan brothers occupies the premises, and religious -services are regularly held in the church. Twenty miles further up the -river (eastward), a pleasant drive, is San Luis Rey's sub-mission or -_asistencia_, San Antonio de Pala, which no lover of the picturesque -should miss visiting. White-walled and red-tiled, the quaint little -church with a remarkable, white bell-tower set not on it but beside it, -is one's beau ideal of an old mission. The setting, too, is satisfying. -On every hand are the mountains; a stone's throw away ripples the little -river; and clustered close by is a picturesque village of about 300 -Indians, to whom a resident priest, with rooms in the Mission, is -_cura_. Both Mission San Luis Rey and this outpost of Pala were -constructed by Indians under the supervision of the famous Padre Peyri, -one of the most forceful and devoted of the early Franciscans in -California. He gave the best of his life to his wilderness flock, and -years after his departure, the Indians, in reverence of his memory, -would still offer up their prayers before his picture as before a -saint's. - -San Diego, a city claiming a population of 100,000, is spread over -seaward-looking hills affording a delightful view of the land-locked Bay -of San Diego and the Pacific Ocean going down to China. The mountains of -Old Mexico, too, only 20 miles away, make a feature in the prospect. If -you are in any doubt what to do in San Diego, you need only stroll -around to the neighborhood of the Plaza, and you will be shown. Street -cars, automobiles, "rubberneck" busses and tourist agency windows are -hung with notices of places to see and trips to take, and the streets -are sprinkled with uniformed officials emblazoned with gold lace, to -give you details. You may have a good time on any of these jaunts, if -you are good-natured and like a bit of roughing it (for San Diego's -vicinity has not as yet reached Los Angeles County's excellence in -roads); but to give you a start I would itemize the following as not to -be overlooked: - -The exquisite gardens at Balboa Park (where the Panama-California -Exposition of 1915-16 was held), affording in epitome a charming object -lesson in what California gardens offer both in exotic and native -plants; the drive to and along the headland of Point Loma for the fine -views; by ferry across the bay to Coronado's famous hotel and beach; the -ride by railway or automobile to La Jolla (pronounced _lah ho' yah_), a -pleasant little seaside resort with interesting cliffs and surf-drenched -rocks; by street car to Old Town (where San Diego had its beginning), to -visit the Estudillo house--a former Spanish home intelligently restored -and interesting as a bit of old-time architecture with its tiled inner -corridors about a flowery patio. It is locally known as "Ramona's -Marriage Place," because it was here, according to the novel, that the -priest lived who married Ramona and Alessandro. On the hill back of Old -Town once stood Padre Junpero Serra's first Mission in California, -founded in 1769; but it is all gone now, the site being marked by a -large cross made of the original red tiles that once littered the -ground. It is but a short walk worth taking both for the view and for -the sentiment of standing on the spot where white civilization in -California had its beginning. Five miles up the valley that stretches -eastward at your feet is what is left of the second Mission (established -in 1774). This historic building has been sadly neglected and is but a -ruined shell, which only reverence for its past makes interesting. -Across the road from it is the old olive orchard, believed to be the -original planting of the olive in the State. - -San Diego's back country offers many interesting trips by auto-stage or -private car, the roads being as a rule good but with the ups and downs -of a hilly region. There are several good hotels in the mountains at a -distance of 60 miles or so from San Diego, so that the night may be -spent here if desired. Pine Hills, Mesa Grande, and Warner's Hot Springs -may be mentioned as desirable objectives. The trip by auto-stage or your -own car via Campo to El Centro or Calexico (at the Mexican border) in -the Imperial Valley will prove an unforgettable experience. The Imperial -Valley is a depression below sea-level in the Colorado Desert of -California, which after lying desolate for ages has of late been made -exceedingly productive by diverting irrigation water to it from the -Colorado River. This trip had best be made between November and May, as -the desert heat in summer and early autumn is intense. If you have your -own car and desire the experience of more desert, return may be made -around the Salton Sea through the Coachella Valley (where dates are now -extensively grown), to Palm Springs and Riverside. - -While we have rambled along the coast between Los Angeles and San Diego, -our eyes will often have been caught by the sight of a long, low island -well out to sea. It is Santa Catalina, whose reputation as a -sea-angler's paradise is world wide. It has also a most delightful -climate--its and San Diego's being perhaps the most equable of any on -the Coast. The marine gardens that line the shores are also of wide -fame, and are made visible by boats with glass bottoms, through which -one looks down into the transparent waters of another world where waving -kelps and sea mosses are the forests and bright colored fish, sea -anemones, jelly fish, sea cucumbers and other queer creatures are the -inhabitants. The trip thither and return may be accomplished from Los -Angeles, between breakfast and evening dinner, if you do not care to -stay longer. - -A hundred miles northwest of Los Angeles lies Santa Barbara (a little -city of 15,000), rich in beautiful homes and flowery gardens. It is -delightfully situated with the ocean at its feet and the Santa Ins -Mountains at its back, and may be reached from Los Angeles either by -train or by a picturesque motor drive through valleys, over mountains -and beside the sea. Here is the best preserved of all the existing -Franciscan Missions in California--never abandoned since its founding in -1786, though now for many a year there have been no Indians in its care. -It is the residence of a Franciscan community, and the members in their -long brown gowns and white cord girdles may be seen any day at their -various tasks about the grounds--one of which is the piloting of -visitors through the church. - -Driving, horseback-riding, playing golf, or simply sitting still and -enjoying being alive in the midst of fine scenery, are the principal -occupations of Santa Barbara's visitors. Among the longer drives should -be mentioned the 40 miles to the Ojai Valley by way of the lovely -Casitas Passes, and the 45 miles across the Santa Ins Mountains to the -Mission Santa Ins in the valley of the same name. The latter trip is -made more enjoyable if two days are taken to it, the mountains being -crossed by the San Marcos Pass[99] into the Valley of Santa Ins, famous -for its majestic oaks, and the night passed at Los Olivos, 6 miles north -of the Mission Mattei's Tavern at Los Olivos, is one of the most -comfortable country inns in California. The return should be made by the -Gaviota Pass and the seaside road back to Santa Barbara. The Mission of -Santa Ins (which is Spanish for Saint Agnes, whose eve gives title to -Keat's immortal poem), is sight enough to make the trip worth -while--with white walls, red-tiled roofs and flowery, corridored front, -in a valley rimmed about with mountains. The Mission was long abandoned -and in ruins, but when the present hospitable rector took charge some 15 -years ago, he began a careful restoration and with his own hands did -much of the necessary labor to put it as we see it today.[100] - - - - - A POSTSCRIPT ON CLIMATE, WAYS AND MEANS. - - -While the climate of the Southwest is characterized by abundant sunshine -and a low degree of relative humidity, it has periods of considerable -moisture precipitation. In winter this takes the form of snow in the -northern and central portions of New Mexico and Arizona (which lie at an -elevation of 5000 feet and more above sea level). The snow, however, -except upon the mountains, disappears rather rapidly under the hot -sunshine of midday, so that the traveler has a fair chance to sandwich -his trips between the storms. The mid-year precipitation of rain is -generally during July and August, and throughout all parts of both those -States it descends usually in severe electrical storms. These occur as a -rule in the afternoon and pass quickly, but while they last they are apt -to be very, very wet. They are the occasion of sky effects of cloud and -rainbow wonderful enough to compensate for whatever discomfort the rain -may cause. In most sections the summer temperatures are on the whole -agreeable, but in the much lower altitudes of parts of southern Arizona -and New Mexico, desert conditions largely prevail, with a degree of heat -in summer that is trying to sight-seers. - -In Southern California climatic conditions differ greatly from those -east of the Colorado River. The coast year is divided naturally into a -dry season and a wet--the latter normally extending from October or -November to April or May. From about mid-spring to about mid-autumn no -rainfall whatever is to be expected, except in the high mountains where -there are occasional thundershowers during summer. The winter -precipitation comes usually in intermittent rain-storms of perhaps two -or three days' duration (on the higher mountains these come as snow), -the intervening periods generally characterized by pleasant, sunshiny -days and by nights with temperatures (particularly during December and -January), not infrequently as low as 30 degrees Fahr. These minimums, -however, rarely hold over an hour or so; and curiously enough, though -they result in early morning frosts, only the tenderest vegetation is -killed, the mercury rising rapidly after sunrise; so that a great -variety of garden flowers bloom, and many vegetables mature, in the open -throughout the winter. A marked feature of the California 24 hours is -the wide difference between the temperature at midday and that at night, -amounting to 35 or 40 degrees F. This condition is fairly constant and -to be counted on daily. Similarly there is a very marked difference -between shade and sun. A respectful regard for this fact will save the -traveler many a bad cold. In summer, though the mercury may run well up -into the 90's and sometimes even to over 100 degrees, the accompanying -relative humidity is low, so that it may be said that as a rule one -suffers less from heat on the Pacific Coast than on the Atlantic at a -dozen degrees lower. - -As regards clothing, a simple and safe rule for travelers in the -Southwest is to bring with them the same sort that they would wear in -New York, season for season. No part of the Southwest is tropical, or -even Floridian. - -In the matter of expenses, Southern California has had a wider -experience in catering to tourists than Arizona and New Mexico and its -facilities are now thoroughly systematized, so that the average man may, -if he chooses, live there about as cheaply as at home, or he may have -the most luxurious accommodations at the larger resorts on a basis that -only the very wealthy are familiar with. European plan is that most in -vogue in California hotels, and the one most satisfactory for the -traveler, who, in his rambles, often finds himself at meal-time far from -his hostelry. Unless you want to pay more, you may calculate on $1.00 to -$1.50 a night for a comfortable room. In Arizona and New Mexico the -sparser settlement of the country results in plainer accommodations, but -the rates are reasonable--room $1.00 a day and up; American plan rate -under normal conditions about $3.00 a day. At many points in these two -States the railways conduct hotels for the accommodation of their -patrons, and they are, in my experience, uniformly good. - -The charge for saddle-horses varies greatly. In out-of-the-way places -where the horses range for their feed, ponies may be had for a dollar a -day; but at the popular resorts, the rent of a good mount is generally -in the neighborhood of $3.00 a day; it may be even more. There is a -similar irregularity as to automobile rates. The latter are largely -influenced by the character of the trip, as 50 miles on some roads would -involve greater expense to the owner than 100 miles on others. A return -of $15 or $20 a day for a car is not infrequently considered -satisfactory, but harder trips naturally necessitate a much higher -charge. In bargaining for transportation in the Southwest, where it may -be a day's journey between stopping places, it is well to remember that -the lowest priced is not always the cheapest. It pays to pay for -responsibility. - - - - - FOOTNOTES - - -[1]In 1883 New Mexico enterprisingly celebrated a so-called 300th - anniversary of the founding of Santa Fe, basing that function on the - assumption that Antonio de Espejo, who made an extended exploration - of the province in 1582-3, had planted a colony there. But there is - no evidence whatever that he did. - -[2]The name commemorates the first Catholic Archbishop of Santa Fe, John - B. Lamy (1850-1885), an apostolic man much beloved by the New - Mexicans, to whom he appears to have been a true spiritual father. - -[3]General Lew Wallace, while governor of New Mexico, wrote the last - three books of "Ben Hur" in the old Palace. "When in the city," he - informed a correspondent, as quoted in Twitchell's "Leading Facts of - New Mexico History," "my habit was to shut myself night after night - in the bedroom back of the executive office proper, and write there - till after twelve o'clock.... The retirement, impenetrable to - incoming sound, was as profound as a cavern's." - -[4]An establishment of the Archaeological Institute of America, which - maintains schools also at Athens, Rome and Jerusalem. The Santa Fe - school has for years conducted research work among the ancient - remains in the Southwest, Guatemala, and other parts of the American - continent. In connection with this, it holds annually a field summer - school open to visitors. - -[5]The climate is part of Santa Fe's cherished assets, the atmosphere - being characterized by great dryness. In summer the heat is rarely - oppressive, and the nights are normally cool and refreshing. During - July and August frequent thunder showers, usually occurring in the - afternoon, are to be expected. In winter the mercury occasionally - touches zero, and there is more or less of wind and snow interfering - temporarily with the tourist's outings; but the sunshine is warm and - the snow melts quickly. Autumn is ideal with snappy nights and - mornings and warm, brilliantly sunny mid-days. - -[6]The traveler should be warned that Indians as a rule object to being - photographed. Originally they had an idea that ill fortune attended - the operation, but the objection nowadays is usually grounded on a - natural distaste to being made a show of, or the desire to make a - little money. In the latter case, they may succumb to the offer of a - dime if they cannot get 25 cents. It is only just and courteous to - ask permission of the subject (putting yourself in his place). This - is particularly needful at dances. Sometimes photographing these is - not tolerated; in other cases, a fee paid to the governor secures a - license for the day. - -[7]About 10 miles beyond Tesuque is the pueblo of Namb, prettily - situated under the shoulder of the fine, snowy peak, Santa Fe Baldy, - with the lovely Namb Falls not far away. The Indian population is - barely 100 and the village is becoming Mexicanized. Its saint's day - is October 4, when the annual fiesta occurs. - -[8]Population about 275. Its public fiesta is held August 12. - -[9]James Mooney, "The Ghost-Dance Religion." - -[10]You may, if you choose, do Taos from Santa Fe in your own or a hired - automobile via Tesuque and San Juan pueblos, giving a day each way to - the journey. Namb, San Ildefonso and Santa Clara may be included by - slight detours, but the time in that case must be stretched. - -[11]Col. R. E. Twitchell quotes a tradition of the Taos people to the - effect that they came to their present home under divine guidance, - the site being indicated to them by the drop of an eagle's feather - from the sky. - -[12]The skulls of the Cliff Dwellers indicate them to have been a - "long-headed" race, while the modern Pueblos are so only in part. It - is likely, therefore, that the latter Indians are of mixed stocks. - There is, however, abundant traditionary evidence that certain clans - of the present-day Pueblos are of Cliff descent. - -[13]Pronounced _Pah'ha-ree-to_, and meaning _little bird_. - -[14]_Recto day loce Free-ho'les_, i. e., _brook of the beans_. - -[15]From Santa Fe to the Tyuonyi and return may be made by automobile in - one strenuous day, including 2 or 3 hours at the ruins. It is better, - if possible, to board at the ranch in the caon for a few days, both - for the purpose of examining the ruins at leisure and making some of - the interesting side trips from that point; notably to the Stone - Lions of Cochit, unique examples of aboriginal carving on stone, and - to _La Cueva Pintada_ (the Painted Cave) where are some remarkable - symbolic pictographs. Arrangements should be made with the ranch in - advance by telephone. - -[16]An ecclesiastical order existent in rural New Mexico, probably - deriving from the Third Order of Saint Francis, and distinguished by - practices of self-flagellation for the remission of sins. They are - particularly active during Lent, when they form processions, beat - themselves with knotted whips, strap bundles of cactus to their - backs, and walk barefoot or on their knees over flint-strewn ground, - bearing heavy crosses. Some of their exercises are held at the - crosses on these hill-top _calvarios_ (calvaries). The Catholic - Church discourages their practices; but they possess considerable - political power in New Mexico and of recent years the order has - become regularly incorporated as a secret fraternity under the State - law. - -[17]L. Bradford Prince, "Spanish Mission Churches of New Mexico." - -[18]The original form of the name is Alburquerque, given in honor of a - Duke of Alburquerque, who was viceroy of New Spain at the time the - place was founded as a _villa_ in 1706. - -[19]The name Isleta means "islet," given, according to Dr. F. W. Hodge, - because formerly the Rio Grande and an arroyo from the mountains - islanded the pueblo between them. - -[20]The church authorities, it should be said, do not endorse this - tradition. Father Zepherin Engelhardt, the historian of the - Franciscans in the Southwest, tells me that there were other - missionaries named Padilla besides Padre Juan, and the burial of one - of these in the church at Isleta, may have given color to the story. - -[21]Pronounced _bair-na-lee'yo_. It is a diminutive of Bernal, and the - place was so named because settled by descendants of Bernal Diaz, a - soldier of Corts and contemporary chronicler of the conquest of - Mexico. It was at Bernalillo that De Vargas died, in 1704. - -[22]Including a score or so descended from the Pecos tribe who moved to - Jemes in 1838 from Pecos Pueblo. This now deserted pueblo (whose - ruins have lately been systematically excavated and whose fine old - Mission church, visible from the Santa Fe transcontinental trains, - has undergone some careful restoration) may be reached by conveyance - from the Valley Ranch near Glorieta station on the Santa Fe. In - Coronado's time Pecos was the most populous town in the country. It - is called Cicuy by the old chroniclers. - -[23]The nearest railway station to these lakes is Estancia on the New - Mexican Central. - -[24]Harrington, "The Ethno-geography of the Tewa Indians." - -[25]Papers of the School of American Archaeology, No. 35. - -[26]Popular tradition persistently associates gold-hoarding with the - Franciscan Missionaries throughout the Southwest, ignoring the fact - that the members of the Seraphic Order were pledged to poverty, and - had small interest in any wealth except the unsearchable riches of - Christ, to share which with their humble Indian charges was their - sole mission in the wilderness. As for the New Mexico Indians, they - knew nothing of any mineral more precious than turquoise. - -[27]Paul A. F. Walter, "The Cities That Died of Fear." - -[28]Apropos of these ruined Missions, it is interesting to know that the - construction was undoubtedly the work of women--house-building being - one of the immemorial duties and cherished privileges of Pueblo - womankind. - -[29]Paul A. P. Walter, "The Cities That Died of Fear." - -[30]The Manzano range reaches an elevation of 10,600 feet here. - -[31]The formation is that known throughout New Mexico as a _mesa_ - (Spanish for _table_). Such flat-topped hills--high or low--have been - brought into being by the washing away in ancient times of the - surrounding earth. - -[32]New Mexico rural roads are in a certain Mark Tapleyian sense ideal - for motorists. Traversing unfenced plains, as they often do, if they - develop bad spots the motorist turns aside and has little difficulty - in scouting out a detour. After a rain, however, they are gummy and - slippery in adobe country until the sun hardens the clay, which it - does rather quickly. - -[33]Some of the Acomas in despair, threw themselves from the cliffs and - so died rather than surrender. A stirring account of the storming of - Acoma will be found in "The Spanish Pioneers," by Chas. F. Lummis. - -[34]Remarkable for its light weight and ornamentation with - conventionalized leaf forms, birds, etc. Unfortunately the education - of the young Indians in Government schools is causing a decline at - all the pueblos in this purely American art. - -[35]The reader, curious to know what is on top of Katzimo, is referred - to an article, "Ascent of the Enchanted Mesa," by F. W. Hodge, in the - Century Magazine, May, 1898. - -[36]Strictly speaking Laguna is the mother pueblo in a family of seven, - the other half dozen being summer or farming villages scattered about - within a radius of a few miles, so established to be near certain - fertile lands. Some of these, as Pojuate, are picturesque enough to - warrant a visit, if there is time. The population of all 7 is - estimated at about 1500. - -[37]For a lively account of this authentic bit of history, the reader is - referred to the chapter "A Saint in Court" in Mr. C. F. Lummis's - "Some Strange Corners of our Country." - -[38]Gallup is also a principal shipping point for Navajo blankets. - Travelers interested in this aboriginal handiwork will here find - large stocks to select from at the traders' stores. - -[39]In the southwestern corner of Colorado. Here are hundreds of - prehistoric dwellings built in the caon walls representing probably - the finest and best preserved architecture of the unknown vanished - races that once peopled our Southwest. Government archaeologists, who - have a particularly warm regard for the Mesa Verde, have been making - careful excavations and restorations here for years, and have mapped - out a program that will consume many more. The so-called Sun Temple, - excavated in 1915, apparently a communal edifice for the performance - of religious dramas, is the only one of its kind so far brought to - light in the United States. (See "Sun Temple of Mesa Verde National - Park," by J. W. Fewkes. 1916, Gov't Printing office.) A public camp - for tourists is maintained near the ruins during the summer months, - the high elevation (8500 feet) rendering snow likely at other - seasons. The nearest railway station is Mancos, Col., on the D. & R. - G., whence an auto-stage runs to the Park camp. - -[40]The most famous is the Shlako which occurs annually about December - 1, largely a night ceremony of great impressiveness. The central - figures are giant effigies representing divinities, whose motive - power is a Zui man hidden within each. They enter from the plain at - dusk, and to the plain return the next morning, after a night of - dancing and feasting by the people. - -[41]For some of the adventures of this famous couple, see F. H. - Cushing's, "Zui Folk Tales." - -[42]Reports of the Secretary of War, Senate Ex. Doc. 64, First Session - 31st Congress, 1850. A more illuminating account of the Rock is given - by Mr. Chas. F. Lummis in "Some Strange Corners of Our Country." An - able supplement to this is a paper by H. L. Broomall and H. E. Hoopes - in Proceedings of Delaware County Institute of Science, Vol. I, No. - 1, Media, Pa. - -[43]There were poets among the Conquistadores. A printed source relied - upon by historians for authentic particulars of Oate's tour of - conquest is a rhymed chronicle by one of his lieutenants, Don Gaspar - de Villagrn. I believe New Mexico is the only one of our States that - can seriously quote an epic poem in confirmation of its history. This - New Mexican Homer, as H. H. Bancroft calls him, printed his book in - 1610 at Alcal. A reprint, published in Mexico a few years ago, may - be consulted in public libraries. The original is one of the rarest - of Americana. - -[44]The Spaniards, whose avenging expedition Lujan's cutting upon El - Morro records, never found Letrado's body, the Zuis having made way - with it. Earnestly desiring some relic of the martyred friar, the - soldiers were rewarded by seeing in the air a cord which descended - into their hands, and this was divided among them. So says Vetancurt, - old chronicler of Franciscan martyrdom in New Mexico. - -[45]Pronounced not as though it rhymed with _jelly_, but _chay_ (or less - correctly _shay_) rhyming with _hay_. The word is a Spanish way of - recording the caon's Navajo name Tse-yi, meaning "among the cliffs." - -[46]To him, more than to any other man, is ascribed the credit of saving - the Navajo blanket industry from being hopelessly vulgarized by - ignorant and unscrupulous dealers. - -[47]"Navaho Legends," by Dr. Washington Matthews. - -[48]Automobiles must be left at Chin Lee, where horses for exploring the - caon may be had, if arranged for in advance. - -[49]Botanically, _Phragmites communis_, common throughout the United - States in damp places. It was through the hollow stem of one of this - species divinely enlarged, that the Navajos and Pueblos came up in - company from the underworld into this present world of light. So at - least runs the Navajo Origin legend. - -[50]The origin of the Navajo blanket is picturesque. At the time of the - Spanish conquest, the tribe was too insignificant to be mentioned. It - grew, however, rather rapidly, and in raids upon the Pueblos took - many of the latter prisoners. From these (the Pueblos had long been - weavers of native cotton) they picked up the textile art; and then - stealing sheep from the Spaniards, they inaugurated the weaving of - the woolen blanket. Only the women of the tribe are weavers, and - Doctor Matthews states that in his time, some 30 years ago, they did - it largely as an artistic recreation, just as the ladies of - civilization do embroidery or tatting. - -[51]The place of emergence is fancied to have been in an island in a - small lake in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. - -[52]Dr. W. Matthews, "Navaho Legends." - -[53]The nearest railway station is McCarty's, from which it lies 12 - miles to the northeast. - -[54]The classic work on Navajo customs and myths is "Navaho Legends," by - Dr. Washington Matthews--a U. S. army surgeon who resided on their - Reservation for years. To a sympathetic attitude towards the race, he - added the practical qualification of a thorough knowledge of the - language. - -[55]Other routes from railroad points are from Winslow, Ariz., 80 miles - to the First Mesa or 75 miles to the Second Mesa; from Caon Diablo, - Ariz., 75 miles to the Third Mesa; from Holbrook, Ariz., 90 miles to - the First Mesa. The routes from Gallup and Holbrook possess the - advantage of avoiding the crossing of the Little Colorado River, - which becomes at times impassable from high water. - -[56]A variant of this pueblo's name is Shongpovi. - -[57]The population of the Hopi pueblos is approximately: Walpi, 250; - Sichmovi, 100; Hano, 150; Mishong-novi, 250; Shipaulovi, 200; - Shimapovi, 200; Oraibi, 300; Htavila, 400; Pacavi, 100. Another Hopi - village (until recently considered a summer or farming outpost of - Oraibi) is Moenkopi, 40 miles further west, with a population of - about 200. - -[58]Hopi, or Hopi-tuh, the name these Indians call themselves, means - "the peaceful," a truthful enough appellation, for they suffer much - before resorting to force. By outsiders they have often been called - Moki, a term never satisfactorily explained, except that it is - considered uncomplimentary. - -[59]The myth has to do with the arrival of the Flute clan at Walpi - bringing with them effective paraphernalia for compelling rain to - fall. The Walpians opposed the entrance of the stranger, and this is - symbolized in the ceremony by lines of white corn meal successively - sprinkled by priests across the trail, as the procession advances - towards the village. - -[60]The inhabitants of Hano are not pure Hopi, but descended from Tewa - Pueblos of the Rio Grande region, who took up their residence here - after 1680, invited by the Hopis as a help against Apache - depredation. Though these Tewas have intermarried with their Hopi - neighbors, they are proud of their distinct ancestry, have preserved - their own language, and still practise some of their ancient - religious rites. - -[61]Mr. F. L. Lewton investigated and described this species as - _Gossypium Hopi_. Smithsonian Institution, Misc. Coll. Vol. 60, No. - 6. - -[62]This name is not Spanish or Indian for anything but just a playful - transmogrification of Adam Hanna, an old time Arizonian who once - lived there. - -[63]U. S. Geological Survey's Guide Book of the Western United States, - Part C. - -[64]Report on the Petrified Forests of Arizona, Dept. of Interior, 1900. - -[65]The cracking of the wood in recent years has lately required the - bolstering up of this interesting petrified bridge by artificial - support, so that venturesome visitors may still enjoy walking across - it. - -[66]This is also readily reached from Holbrook station on the Santa Fe - railway, where conveyance may be obtained. The distance from Holbrook - is 18 miles. - -[67]Automobile service may be had at Adamana for a number of points of - interest within reach. Among these are the fine pueblo ruins of - Kin-tyel (Wide House) 48 miles to the northeast--a village believed - to have been built by certain clans of the Zuis in their prehistoric - migrations. - -[68]The name is said to date from a certain Fourth of July, some 60 - years ago, when a party of emigrants camped on the site of the future - town and flew the Stars and Stripes from a pole erected in honor of - the National holiday. - -[69]Those of Walnut Caon, about 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff, are - especially easy of access. For particulars concerning the cinder-cone - ruins (9 miles northeast of Flagstaff and also 12 miles east) the - student is referred to Dr. J. W. Fewkes's descriptions in the 22nd - Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology, pp. 35-39. - -[70]The name commemorates "Old" Bill Williams, a noted frontiersman of - the 1830's and '40's, identified with Fremont's fourth and ill-fated - expedition, which Williams undertook to guide across the Rockies and - failed because of the snow and cold. A tributary of the Colorado - River also bears his name. - -[71]About 10 miles eastwardly; a remarkable little volcanic mountain - with a cratered summit, the glowing red rock of which it is made up - giving the upper part of the mountain the appearance at any time of - day of being illumined by the setting sun. It may be made the - objective of a pleasant half day's trip from Flagstaff. - -[72]"The Hopi," Walter Hough. - -[73]H. H. Robinson, "The San Francisco Volcanic Field," Washington, - 1913. - -[74]The varied tints of the Painted Desert are due to the coloration of - the rocks and clays which form its surface. Some additional tone is - given at times by the vegetation that springs up after rainfall. - -[75]These two together with a third called Inscription House Ruin (20 - miles west of Betata Kin and so named because of certain Spanish - inscriptions upon it dated 1661) form what is called the Navajo - National Monument. At Kayenta, a post office and trading post of - Messrs. Wetherill and Colville some 20 miles southeast of Betata Kin, - pack outfits and guide may be secured to visit these ruins. Dr. J. W. - Fewkes's description, Bulletin 50, Bureau of American Ethnology, - should be consulted for details. - -[76]The Red Rock country is also reached via Cornville and Sedona by - conveyance from Clarkdale on the Verde Valley branch of the Santa Fe - Railway, or from Jerome on the United Verde railroad. - -[77]The name commemorates that lieutenant of Coronado's, Don Pedro de - Tovar, who in 1540 visited the Hopi villages, where he learned of the - existence of the Grand Caon, and carried the news of it back to - Coronado at Zui. - -[78]The exact spot of this first view is not known--the point that today - bears the name of Crdenas being a random guess. - -[79]The first complete exploration of the river caons was made in 1869, - by an expedition in charge of Major J. W. Powell, the noted - ethnologist and geologist. He had boats especially built for the - trip. It was an undertaking of supreme danger, forming, as Mr. F. S. - Dellenbaugh says in his interesting "Romance of the Colorado River," - "one of the distinguished feats of history;" for not one of the - pioneering party could have any conception of what physical obstacles - were before them when the boats set out at the Caon's head into the - unknown. Powell was a Civil War veteran and had but one hand. He made - a second and more leisurely trip in 1871-72. - -[80]Bright Angel is the name given by the first Powell expedition to a - creek entering the river here from the north; its bright, clear - waters being in striking contrast to a turbid little tributary - discovered not long before, which the men had dubbed "Dirty Devil - Creek." - -[81]It is not a true salmon. Dr. David Starr Jordan identifies it as - _Ptychocheilus lucius_, and it is really a huge chub or minnow. There - is a record of one caught weighing 80 pounds; more usual are - specimens of 10 and 12 pounds. - -[82]An interesting trip with the Grand Caon as a base is to Cataract - Caon, a side gorge of the Grand Caon about 40 miles west of El - Tovar. The trip may be made by wagon to the head of the trail leading - down into an arm of Cataract Caon, but the final lap--about 15 - miles--must be on horseback or afoot. At the bottom is the - reservation of a small tribe of Indians--the Havasupais--occupying a - fertile, narrow valley hedged in by high cliffs of red limestone. - There are numerous springs and the water is used to irrigate the - fields and peach orchards of the tribe. These Indians are much - Americanized, and live under the paternal care of a local Government - agency. A feature of the Caon is the number of fine water falls. To - one exquisite one, called Bridal Veil, it would be hard to find - anywhere a mate. A camping trip eastward from Grand View along the - rim to the Little Colorado Junction may also be made a pleasant - experience, rendered particularly glorious by the desert views. - -[83]Jerome is reached by a little railway from Jerome Junction on the - Ash Fork and Phoenix division of the Santa Fe; Clarkdale, by a branch - from Cedar Glade on the same division. The Clarkdale branch threads - for much of the way the picturesque caon of the upper Verde River. - -[84]There is, however, no evidence of volcanic action in the vicinity; - so the depression--deep as it is--is doubtless the result of solvent - or erosive action of the waters of the Well. (J. W. Fewkes, 17th Ann. - Rep. Bureau of American Ethnology.) - -[85]17th Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology. - -[86]The climate is noted for its mildness and salubrity. There is a - local saying, "If a man wants to die in San Antonio, he must go - somewhere else!" - -[87]Pronounced _ah'la-mo_, Spanish for cottonwood. The name was probably - given from cottonwoods growing near by. The Church of the Alamo was - erected in 1744. - -[88]The reader, curious for details of the San Antonio Missions, as well - as items of local secular history, is referred to Wm. Corner's "San - Antonio de Bxar." He will also be interested in a picturesque sketch - of San Antonio as it was nearly half a century ago, by the Southern - poet Sidney Lanier, who in quest of health passed the winter of - 1872-3 here, and here made his resolve, faithfully carried out, to - devote the remainder of his life to music and poetry. The sketch is - printed in a collection of Lanier's essays entitled "Retrospects and - Prospects." - -[89]These three Missions were originally located about 15 years earlier - on sites some distance from San Antonio. Scarcity of irrigation water - is given as one important cause of their removal in 1731 to the banks - of the San Antonio River. - -[90]Silver and gold gave it its start. Its name is believed to be due to - a huge bowlder or globe of silver weighing 300 pounds, found there in - 1876. - -[91]Pronounced _Too-son'_. It is the name applied by the neighboring - Papago Indians to a mountain at the west of the present town, and - according to Dr. W. J. McGee, means "black base." Tucson's first - appearance in history seems to have been in 1763, as an Indian - village whose spiritual needs were served by the missionaries of San - Xavier del Bac. In 1776 a Spanish presdio was established here, and - the little pueblo became San Agustin de Tucson. An edifice, - originally a church dedicated to St. Augustine but now a lodging - house, still faces the old Spanish plaza of the town. - -[92]"An escutcheon with a white ground filed in with a twisted cord ... - and a cross on which are nailed one arm of Our Saviour and one of St. - Francis, representing the union of the disciple and the divine Master - in charity and love. The arm of our Lord is bare while that of St. - Francis is covered." (Salpointe, "Soldiers of the Cross.") - -[93]Engelhardt, "The Franciscans in Arizona." The diaries of Garcs are - marked by nave charm and simplicity. One, translated and elaborately - annotated by the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has been published under the - title "On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer." - -[94]It stands on the west (opposite) side of the river from the railway, - a fact that may be fraught with trouble; for the river, which is - ordinarily insignificant enough to be crossed on a plank, is capable - of becoming after storms a raging flood 200 feet wide and 20 deep. - Under such circumstances, it is the part of wisdom to motor from - Tucson. - -[95]In the sanctuary were interred, and I suppose still repose, the - bones of the Franciscan Padres Baltasar Carillo and Narciso - Gutierres, whom Archbishop Salpointe in his "Soldiers of the Cross," - credits with being the supervising builders both of the present - church of Tumaccori and that of San Xavier. - -[96]Dr. F. W. Fewkes gives this and several other folk tales concerning - the Casa Grande in the 28th Report of the Bureau of American - Ethnology, which should be consulted for an exhaustive account of the - ruin and the Government excavation work. - -[97]The following all-day trips are especially recommended: - - 1. To Redlands, in the San Bernardino foothills, one of the most - beautiful of California towns, and Riverside with its famous Mission - Inn (about 145 miles the round, including the ascent of Mt. - Roubidoux), traversing a beautiful orange and lemon district and - paralleling the stately Sierra Madre, whose highest peaks are - snow-capped in winter. (If there is time for another day this trip - may be extended in winter or spring to include the run to Palm - Springs in the desert, 50 miles beyond Redlands. This is - particularly enjoyable in March and April when the wild flowers of - the desert are in bloom--a surprising and lovely sight. There is a - good hotel at Palm Springs, but it is safest to arrange ahead for - accommodations). - - 2. To Mission San Juan Capistrano (about 120 miles the round), one - of the most interesting and poetic in its half ruin of the old - Franciscan California establishments. The road traverses the rich - agricultural districts tributary to Whittier and Santa Ana, and a - portion of the extensive Irvine, or San Joaquin Ranch (about 100,000 - acres). A detour may be made to include Laguna and Arch Beaches and - a run (over an inferior road) of ten miles overlooking a picturesque - rock-bound bit of Pacific surf. - - 3. To Mount Wilson Peak (50 miles the round, but includes 9 miles of - tortuous mountain road with a grade as high as 23% in one or two - spots). On this peak (6000 feet above the sea) are situated the - buildings of the Carnegie Solar Observatory, which, however, are not - open to the public. The views from the peak are very beautiful. The - trip can also be made by public auto-stage. There is a hotel at the - summit. - - 4. To Camulos Rancho (95 miles the round), a good example of the old - style Spanish-California ranch, utilized by Mrs. Jackson as the - scene of part of her novel "Ramona." It is situated in the Santa - Clara Valley of the South. A stop may be made en route at Mission - San Fernando. The return trip may be made by way of Topanga Caon - and the seaside town of Santa Monica, if an extra hour can be given - to it. - - Half-day drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles are too numerous to - be itemized here, but the following may be mentioned: - - 1. To the Mission San Fernando by way of Hollywood (famous for its - beautiful homes, and latterly as the capital of "Movie-land") and - through the Cahuenga Pass, returning via the Topanga Caon, the - beach and Santa Monica. - - 2. To Sunland via Alhambra and Santa Anita Avenue to the Foothill - Boulevard, Altadena, and La Caada, returning via Roscoe and - Tropico. - - 3. To Mission San Gabriel, returning by way of Pasadena's famous - residential districts of Oak Knoll and Orange Grove Boulevard, - thence over the Arroyo Seco Bridge and past the Annandale Country - Club, back to the city. - - 4. To Whittier and the citrus-fruit belt of the San Gabriel Valley - via either Turnbull or Brea Caons (the latter picturesque with oil - derricks) returning by the Valley Boulevard. - -[98]"The California Padres and their Missions," by C. F. Saunders and J. - S. Chase. - -[99]The San Marcos road has some stiff grades and should only be - traveled by experienced drivers. - -[100]For a more detailed account of the tourist attractions in Southern - California, reference is made to the author's "Finding the Worth - While in California." - - - - - INDEX - - - A - Ab, 60, 62. - Acevedo, Fr. Francisco, de, 60, 63. - Acoma Pueblo, 68. - Adamana, 130. - Alamo, The, 179. - Albuquerque, 43. - Anza, Juan Bautista, 198, 202. - Apache Trail, 190. - Arch Beach, 209. - Awtobi, 121. - - - B - Bcavi Pueblo, 119. - Bandelier, A. F., 34, 54, 59. - Beaver Creek, 164. - Bernalillo, 49. - Betata Kin Ruins, 148. - Bill Williams, 141. - Bitter Man, Legend of, 202. - Bowie, James, 181. - Buckman, 33, 41. - - - C - Camp Verde, 165. - Camulos Rancho, 210. - Caon de Chelly, 103, 107. - Caon Diablo, 116. - Carson, Kit, 29, 111. - Casa Grande Ruins, 200. - Chaco Caon, 83. - Chmayo, 38. - Chin Lee, 103, 106. - Clarkdale, 149, 162. - Cliff Dwellings, 108, 148, 192. - Coachella Valley, 218. - Cochit Pueblo, 54. - Colorado Desert, 217. - Crockett, Davy, 181. - Cueva Pintada, La, 33. - - - E - El Cabezon, 113. - Espaola, 24, 41. - Estancia Valley, 56, 67. - - - F - Flagstaff, 137. - Fort Defiance, 105. - Frijoles Caon, 33. - - - G - Gallup, 82, 102. - Ganado, 105. - Garcs, Fr. Francisco, 121, 195, 202. - 228 - Globe, 191. - Gran Quivira, 58, 60, 62, 63. - Grand Caon, 150. - - - H - Hano Pueblo, 118, 128. - Hwikuh, 92. - Holbrook, 135. - Hollywood, 210. - Hosta Butte, 112. - Hopi Mesas, 118. - Htavila Pueblo, 119. - - - I - Imperial Valley, 217. - Inscription House Ruin, 148. - Inscription Rock, 83, 93. - Isleta Pueblo, 44. - - - J - Jemes Pueblo, 50. - Jemes Springs, 51. - Jerome, 149, 162. - - - K - Kayenta, 148. - Keam's Caon, 116. - Kearney, Stephen, 8. - Keet-Seel Ruins, 148. - Kino, Fr. Eusebio, 193, 201. - Kin-tyel Ruins, 136. - - - L - Laguna Beach, 209. - Laguna Pueblo, 68, 78. - La Jolla, 216. - Lake, The Accursed, 57. - Lamy, Bishop, 5. - Lanier, Sidney, 184, 187. - Letrado, Padre, 90, 99. - Lions of Cochit, Stone, 33. - Llana, Fr. Gernimo de la, 11, 65. - Los Angeles, 207. - Los Olivos, 220. - - - M - Manzano, 66. - McCarty's, 112. - Mesa Encantada, 74. - Mesa Grande, 217. - Mesa Verde National Park, 83. - Mishngnovi Pueblo, 118. - Mission Churches: - Arizona. - San Jos de Tumaccori, 197. - San Xavier del Bac, 195. - California. - San Antonio de Pala, 214. - San Diego, 213. - San Fernando, 210, 211. - 229 - San Gabriel, 211. - San Juan Capistrano, 210. - San Luis Rey, 213. - San Miguel, 14. - Santa Barbara, 219. - Santa Ins, 220. - New Mexico. - Pecos, 50. - San Augustin, Isleta, 47. - San Estban, Acoma, 75. - San Felipe, 52. - San Jos, Laguna, 81. - Santa Cruz, 38. - Texas. - Pursima Concepcion, 182. - San Fernando, 178. - San Francisco de la Espada, 190. - San Jos de Aguayo, 184. - San Juan Capistrano, 190. - Moenkopi Pueblo, 147. - Montezuma's Castle, 162, 166. - Montezuma's Well, 162, 170. - Morro, El, 93. - Mount Lowe, 209. - Mount Taylor, 112. - Mount Wilson, 209. - Mountainair, 58. - - - N - Namb Pueblo, 24. - National Monuments: - Bandelier, 33. - Casa Grande, 200. - El Morro, 93. - Gran Quivira, 62. - Grand Caon, 150. - Montezuma Castle, 164. - Navajo, 148. - Petrified Forests of Arizona, 135. - Tonto, 192. - Tumaccori, 198. - Navajo blanket, origin of, 110. - Navajo Indian Reservation, 102. - Navajo Sacred Mountains, 111. - - - O - Oak Creek Caon, 141. - Ojai Valley, 220. - Ojo Caliente, 92. - Ojo del Gigante, 67. - Oate, Juan de, 4, 7, 26, 95, 97. - Oraibi Pueblo, 118. - Otowi, 32. - - - P - Padre Padilla's Coffin, 47. - Painted Desert, 117, 134, 141, 145. - Painted Rocks of Ab, 64. - Pajarito Park, 32. - 230 - Pala, 214. - Palm Springs, 218. - Pasadena, 207. - Pecos National Forest, 41. - Pecos Pueblo, 50. - Pelado Peak, 111. - Penitentes, Order of, 36. - Petrified Forest of Arizona, 130. - Phoenix, 189. - Photographing Indians, 23. - Pimera Alta, 188. - Pop, 26, 28. - Pueblo Bonito, 83. - Pueblo Indians, characteristics, 23. - Puy, 31. - - - Q - Quara, 11, 64. - - - R - Rainbow Forest, 135. - Ramah, 93, 100. - Ramirez, Fr. Juan, 72. - Redlands, 208. - Red Rock Country, 149, 163. - Rito de los Frijoles, 33, 54, 63. - Riverside, 208, 218. - Roosevelt Dam, 189, 191. - - - S - San Antonio, 176. - San Diego, 213. - San Felipe Pueblo, 52. - San Francisco Mountain, 112, 140. - San Francisco Peaks, 125, 138, 139. - San Gabriel Mission, 211. - San Ildefonso Pueblo, 25. - San Juan Pueblo, 25. - San Mato Mountain, 111. - San Xavier del Bac Mission, 192, 194. - Sanda Pueblo, 49. - Santa Ana Pueblo, 50. - Santa Barbara, 219. - Santa Catalina Island, 218. - Santa Clara Pueblo, 25. - Santa Cruz Valley, N. M., 35. - Santa Cruz Valley, Ariz., 193. - Santa Cruz de la Canada, N. M., 37. - Santa Fe, 1. - Santa Ins Mission, 220. - Santa Mnica, 210. - Santo Domingo Pueblo, 52. - Santo Nio, 37. - Santuario, 34, 39. - Shlako Dance, Zui, 88. - Shimpovi Pueblo, 118. - Shpapu, 27. - Shipalovi Pueblo, 118. - Shongpovi Pueblo, 118. - Sia Pueblo, 51. - Sichmovi Pueblo, 118. - 231 - Simpson, Lieut., J. H., 94. - Stages, Modern Auto-, 165. - Steamboat Rock, 117. - St. Michael's Mission, 105, 116. - - - T - Tabir, 59. - Tajique, 11. - Taos, 27. - Tchrega, 32. - Tesuque Pueblo, 20. - Tewa Pueblo, 118, 128. - Topanga Caon, 210. - Towa-ylleni, 85, 90. - Truchas Peaks, 42. - Tsankawi, 32. - Tuba, 147. - Tubac, 197, 199. - Tucson, 192. - Tumaccori, 198. - Tyuonyi, 33, 65. - - - V - Vargas, Diego de, 7, 12, 25, 49, 90, 95, 98. - Verde Valley, 162. - - - W - Wallace, Lew, 11. - Walnut Caon, 138. - Walpi Pueblo, 118, 123. - Warner's Hot Springs, 217. - Whittier, 209, 210. - Wide House Ruins, 136. - Winslow, 116. - - - Z - Zrate, Fr. Ascencio de, 12. - Zui, 82. - - - - - Glacier National Park - - -Every day brings a new experience--crowded with scenic delight--at -Glacier National Park--Uncle Sam's playground in the Montana Rockies. - -Maybe you are going over the "Notch"--sky-high Gunsight Pass--on a -surefooted horse--a real mountaineer experience. Perhaps you're gliding -amid tremendous scenes over a modern motor trail through the thick of -the wilds. Another day, you pow-wow with the picturesque Blackfeet -Indians. - -Send for descriptive literature with maps and photographic views of the -Park's beauty spots and definite information as to cost. Write - - C. E. STONE - Passenger Traffic Manager - ST. PAUL, MINN. - -[Illustration] - - - - - Outwest Outings - "Off the beaten path" - New Mexico and Arizona - - - Rainbow Bridge - Grand Canyon of Arizona - Petrified Forest - Painted Desert - Ancient Indian Pueblos - Prehistoric Cliff Ruins - New Mexico Rockies - Santa Fe - - Ask for new booklet - "Off the beaten Path" - of Maps and Pictures - W. J. Black, Pass. Traf. Mgr. - AT&SF Ry--1118 Ry. Exch. Chi - -[Illustration] - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Some palpable typographical errors were corrected. - ---Copyright and publisher's information was included from the printed - copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the -Southwest, by Charles Francis Saunders - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - -***** This file should be named 50933-8.txt or 50933-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/9/3/50933/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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text-align:center; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -dl.undent dt { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0em; } -dl.undent dd { margin-left:4em; text-indent:-3em; } -dl.undent dd.t { margin-left:5em; text-indent:-3em; } -dl.undent dd.t2 { margin-left:6em; text-indent:-3em; } -dl.undent dt.r { text-align:right; }</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the Southwest, by -Charles Francis Saunders - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Finding the Worth While in the Southwest - -Author: Charles Francis Saunders - -Release Date: January 15, 2016 [EBook #50933] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Finding the Worth While in the Southwest" width="500" height="660" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pic000.png" alt="Map" width="1000" height="678" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1>Finding the Worth While -<br />in the Southwest</h1> -<p class="tbcenter">BY -<br /><span class="large">CHARLES FRANCIS SAUNDERS</span> -<br />Author of “Finding the Worth While in California,” -<br />“The Indians of the Terraced Houses,” etc.</p> -<p class="tbcenter"><i><span class="u">WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS</span></i></p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“The Sun goes West,</p> -<p class="t">Why should not I?”</p> -<p class="lr"><i>Old Song.</i></p> -</div> -<p class="tbcenter">NEW YORK -<br />ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY -<br />1918</p> -</div> -<p class="center small">Copyright, 1918, by -<br /><span class="sc"><span class="u">Robert M. McBride & Co.</span></span></p> -<p class="center small"><span class="u">Published May, 1918</span></p> -<p class="center small">TO -<br /><span class="large">M. H. R.</span> -<br />Kinswoman most dear -<br />This little volume is affectionately inscribed.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_ix">ix</div> -<h2 class="eee">PREFACE</h2> -<p>No part of the United States is so foreign -of aspect as our great Southwest. The -broad, lonely plains, the deserts with their -mystery and color, the dry water courses, -the long, low mountain chains seemingly -bare of vegetation, the oases of cultivation -where the fruits of the Orient flourish, the -brilliant sunshine, the deliciousness of the -pure, dry air—all this suggests Syria or -northern Africa or Spain. Added to this -are the remains everywhere of an old, old -civilization that once lived out its life here—it -may have been when Nineveh was building -or when Thebes was young. Moreover, -there is the contemporary interest of Indian -and Mexican life such as no other part of -the country affords.</p> -<p>In this little volume the author has attempted, -in addition to outlining practical -<span class="pb" id="Page_x">x</span> -information for the traveler, to hint at this -wealth of human association that gives the -crowning touch to the Southwest’s charm -of scenery. The records of Spanish explorers -and missionaries, the legends of the -aborigines (whose myths and folklore have -been studied and recorded by scholars like -Bandelier, Matthews, Hough, Cushing, -Stevenson, Hodge, Lummis, and others) -furnish the raw material of a great native -literature. Painters long since discovered -the fascination of our Southwest; writers, -as yet, have scarcely awakened to it.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_xi">xi</div> -<h2>CONTENTS</h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt><span class="lj"><span class="small">CHAPTER</span></span> <span class="small">PAGE</span></dt> -<dt><a href="#c1"><span class="cn">I</span> Santa Fe, the Royal City of St. Francis’s Holy Faith</a> 1</dt> -<dt><a href="#c2"><span class="cn">II</span> The Upper Rio Grande, its Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings</a> 20</dt> -<dt><a href="#c3"><span class="cn">III</span> Roundabout Albuquerque</a> 43</dt> -<dt><a href="#c4"><span class="cn">IV</span> The Dead Cities of the Salines</a> 56</dt> -<dt><a href="#c5"><span class="cn">V</span> Of Acoma, City of the Marvellous Rock; and Laguna</a> 68</dt> -<dt><a href="#c6"><span class="cn">VI</span> To Zuñi, the Center of the Earth, via Gallup</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#c7"><span class="cn">VII</span> El Morro, the Autograph Rock of the Conquistadores</a> 93</dt> -<dt><a href="#c8"><span class="cn">VIII</span> The Storied Land of the Navajo</a> 102</dt> -<dt><a href="#c9"><span class="cn">IX</span> The Homes of the Hopis, Little People of Peace</a> 116</dt> -<dt><a href="#c10"><span class="cn">X</span> The Petrified Forest of Arizona</a> 130</dt> -<dt><a href="#c11"><span class="cn">XI</span> Flagstaff as a Base</a> 137</dt> -<dt><a href="#c12"><span class="cn">XII</span> The Grand Cañon of the Colorado River in Arizona</a> 150</dt> -<dt><a href="#c13"><span class="cn">XIII</span> Montezuma’s Castle and Well, Which Montezuma Never Saw</a> 162</dt> -<dt><a href="#c14"><span class="cn">XIV</span> San Antonio</a> 176</dt> -<dt><a href="#c15"><span class="cn">XV</span> In the Country of the Giant Cactus</a> 188</dt> -<dt><a href="#c16"><span class="cn">XVI</span> Southern California</a> 204</dt> -<dt><a href="#c17"><span class="cn"> </span> A Postscript on Climate, Ways and Means</a> 222</dt> -<dt><a href="#c18"><span class="cn"> </span> Index</a> 227</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_xiii">xiii</div> -<h2 class="eee">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt><span class="j small">FACING PAGE</span></dt> -<dt><a href="#fig1">An Acoma Indian Dance</a> 72</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig2">Laguna, the Mother Pueblo of Seven</a> 73</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig3">Bead Maker, Zuñi Pueblo</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig4">A Street in Acoma Pueblo</a> 83</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig5">Old Church, Acoma Pueblo</a> 88</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig6">A Sunny Wall in Zuñi</a> 89</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig7">Casa Blanca or White House</a> 116</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig8">El Morro or Inscription Rock, N. M.</a> 117</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig9">In the North Petrified Forest</a> 135</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig10">A Corner in Santa Fe, N. M.</a> 136</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig11">Old Governor’s Palace, Santa Fe, N. M.</a> 162</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig12">Montezuma’s Castle</a> 163</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig13">San José de Aguayo</a> 184</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig14">San Xavier del Bac, Arizona</a> 185</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<h2 id="c1">CHAPTER I -<br /><span class="small">SANTA FE—THE ROYAL CITY OF SAINT FRANCIS’S HOLY FAITH</span></h2> -<p>Someone—I think it was that picturesque -historian of our Southwest, Mr. Charles F. -Lummis—has summed up New Mexico as -“sun, silence and adobe;” and of these three -components the one that is apt to strike the -Eastern newcomer most forcibly is adobe. -This homely gift of nature—hard as brick -in dry weather, plastic as putty and sticky -as glue in wet—is the bulwark of the New -Mexican’s well-being. His crops are raised -in it; he fences in his cattle with it; he himself -lives in it; for of it are built those colorless, -square, box-like houses, flat-roofed and -eaveless which, on our first arrival in New -Mexico, we declared an architectural abomination, -and within a week fell eternally in -love with. An adobe house wall is anywhere -from two to five feet thick, a fact that conduces -<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span> -to coolness in summer, warmth in -winter, and economy at all seasons. Given -possession of a bit of ground, you grub up -a few square yards of the earth, mix it with -water and wheat chaff, and shovel the mixture -into a wooden mold. You then lift the -mold and lo! certain big, brown bricks upon -the ground. These the fiery New Mexican -sun bakes hard for you in a couple of days—bricks -that are essentially the same as -those of ancient Babylon and Egypt, and -the recipe for which (received by the Spanish -probably from their Moorish conquerors) -is one of Spain’s most valued contributions -to America. Old Santa Fe was -built entirely of this material, and most of -latter day Santa Fe still is, though there is -a growing disposition on the part of the -well-to-do to substitute burned brick and -concrete.</p> -<p>As a rule these adobe dwellings are of -one story, and the more pretentious are constructed -partly or entirely about an inner -court, such as in Spain is called a <i>patio</i>, but -in New Mexico a <i>plazita</i>, that is, a little -plaza. A cheerful sanctuary is this <i>plazita</i>, -<span class="pb" id="Page_3">3</span> -where trees cast dappled shadows and hollyhocks -and marigolds bloom along the sunny -walls. Upon it the doors and windows of -the various rooms open, and here the family -life centers. By the kitchen door Trinidad -prepares her <i>frijoles</i> and chili, while the -children tease her for tidbits; upon the grass -the house rugs and <i>serapes</i> are spread on -cleaning days, in kaleidoscopic array, and -beaten within an inch of their lives; here, -of summer evenings Juan lounges and -smokes and Juanita swings in the hammock -strumming a guitar, or the family gramophone -plays “La Golondrina.”</p> -<p>Comparisons are always invidious, but if -there be among the cities of the United -States, one that is richer in picturesqueness, -in genuine romance, in varied historic, -archaeologic and ethnologic interest, than -Santa Fe, it has still I think to make good -its claims. The distinction of being the -oldest town in our country, as has sometimes -been claimed, is, however, not Santa -Fe’s.<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> Indeed, the exact date of its founding -<span class="pb" id="Page_4">4</span> -is still subject to some doubt, though -the weight of evidence points to 1605. Nor -was it even the original white settlement in -New Mexico. That honor belongs to the -long since obliterated San Gabriel, the site -of which was on or near the present-day -hamlet of Chamita, overlooking the Rio -Grande about 35 miles north of Santa Fe. -There in 1598 the conqueror of New Mexico, -Don Juan de Oñate (a rich citizen of -Zacatecas, and the Spanish husband, by the -way, of a granddaughter of Montezuma) -established his little capital, maintaining it -there until the second town was founded. -To this latter place was given the name <i>La -Villa Real de Santa Fé de San Francisco de -Asís</i>—the Royal City of Saint Francis of -Assisi’s Holy Faith. Naturally that was -too large a mouthful for daily use, and it -was long ago pared down to just Santa Fe, -though Saint Francis never lost his status -as the city’s patron. In point of antiquity, -the most that can justly be claimed for it -<span class="pb" id="Page_5">5</span> -is that it is the first permanent white settlement -in the West.</p> -<p>The situation of Santa Fe is captivating, -in the midst of a sunny, breeze-swept plain -in the lap of the Southern Rockies, at an -elevation of 7000 feet above the sea. -Through the middle of the city flows the -little, tree-bordered Rio de Santa Fé, which -issues a couple of miles away from a gorge -in the imposing Sierra Sangre de Cristo -(the Mountains of the Blood of Christ), -whose peaks, often snow-clad, look majestically -down in the north from a height of -10,000 to 13,000 feet. The town is reached -from Lamy<a class="fn" id="fr_2" href="#fn_2">[2]</a> by a branch of the Atchison, -Topeka and Santa Fe Railway, which climbs -due north for 18 miles through an uninhabitated -waste dotted with low-growing -piñon, juniper and scrub. At the station -a small army of bus, hack and automobile -men greet you with enthusiasm, and to reach -your hotel you have only the choice of them -or your own trotters, for street cars there -<span class="pb" id="Page_6">6</span> -are none. In Santa Fe, however, no place -is far from any other place—the population -is but a scant 8500. Of these a large percentage -is of Spanish blood, and Spanish -speech and Spanish signs engage your attention -on every hand.</p> -<p>The hub of the city is the Plaza—warm -and sunny in winter, shady and cool in -summer. Seated here on a bench you soon -arrive at a lazy man’s notion of the sort of -place you are in. Here the donkeys patter -by laden with firewood—dearest of Santa -Fe’s street pictures; here Mexican peddlers -of apples and <i>dulces</i>, <i>piñones</i> and shoe-strings -ply their mild trade, and Tesuque -Indians, with black hair bound about with -scarlet <i>bandas</i>, pass by to the trader’s, their -blankets bulging with native pottery, or, in -season, their wagons loaded with melons, -grapes, apples, and peaches. Of afternoons -the newsboys loiter about crying the papers, -and you have a choice of your news in -English or Spanish; and on Sundays and -holidays the band plays athletically in its -little kiosk, the crowd promenading around -and around the while very much as in Old -<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span> -Mexico, and strewing the ground behind it -with piñon and peanut shells.</p> -<p>Close to the Plaza, too, cluster many of -the historied spots of Santa Fe; indeed, the -Plaza itself is a chief one. On this bit of -ground it is confidently believed that Oñate -must have camped in 1605—if it was 1605—when -the capital was transferred from San -Gabriel; and there is no doubt whatever -that here was the seething center of the -famous Pueblo revolt of 1680, when 3000 -infuriated Indians cooped the entire Spanish -population of Santa Fe within the Governor’s -Palace opposite, and kept them -there for a week. Then the whites made a -brave sortie, caught and hanged 50 Indians -in the Plaza and escaped to Old Mexico—their -exit being celebrated shortly afterwards -in this same Plaza by the Indians’ -making a bonfire of all Spanish archives -and church belongings they could lay hands -on. Here 13 years later came De Vargas, -the re-conqueror of New Mexico (bearing -it is said the very standard under which -Oñate had marched in the original conquest), -and with his soldiers knelt before -<span class="pb" id="Page_8">8</span> -the reinstated cross. And it was in this -Plaza in 1846, during our Mexican War, -that General Stephen Kearny ran up the -Stars and Stripes and took possession of -the territory in the name of the United -States. It was the Plaza, too, that formed -the western terminus of the Old Santa Fe -Trail—that famous highway of trade that -bound New Mexico with Anglo-Saxondom -throughout the Mexican regime in the -Southwest and until the iron horse and -Pullman cars superseded mules and Conestoga -wagons. At the old adobe hotel known -as La Fonda, a remnant of which still stands -at this writing just across from the southeast -corner of the Plaza, travelers and teamsters, -plainsmen and trappers found during -half a century that boisterous brand of -cheer dear to the pioneer soul—cheer made -up quite largely of cards, <i>aguardiente</i> and -the freedom of firearms, but gone now, let -us trust, out of the world forever since the -world has lost its frontiers.</p> -<p>Facing the Plaza on the north is the -ancient <i>Palacio Real</i> or Governor’s Palace—a -long, one-storied adobe building occupying -<span class="pb" id="Page_9">9</span> -the length of the block, and faced with -the covered walk or portico (they call such -a <i>portal</i> in New Mexico) which in former -years was a feature of every building of -importance in Santa Fe. Within its thick -walls for nearly three centuries the governors -of New Mexico resided—Spaniards, -Pueblo Indians, Spaniards again, Mexicans -and finally Americans.<a class="fn" id="fr_3" href="#fn_3">[3]</a> In 1909 the building -was set aside as the home of the Museum -of New Mexico (since removed to a handsome -edifice of its own in the New Mexico -style of architecture across the street), and -of the School of American Research.<a class="fn" id="fr_4" href="#fn_4">[4]</a> -Some careful restoration work was then -done, necessary to remove modern accretions -and lay bare certain interesting architectural -<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span> -features incorporated by the original -builders, such as the handwrought woodwork, -the fireplaces, doorways, etc., so that -the edifice as it appears today is outwardly -very much as it must have looked a century -or two ago. The festoons of dried Indian -ears, however, which are said to have been -a rather constant adornment of the <i>portal</i> -in old times, are now, to the relief of sensitive -souls, humanely absent. Within, the -Palace is a mine of information for the -curious in the history, archaeology and ethnology -of our Southwest, and a leisurely -visit to it makes a useful preliminary to -one’s travels about the State. The building -is open to all without charge.</p> -<p>A short block from the Plaza is the -Cathedral of San Francisco, whose unfinished -trunks of towers are a prominent -feature in Santa Fe’s low sky-line. You -may or may not get something from a visit -to it. It is a modern structure, still incomplete, -built upon and about an older church -believed to date from 1622. Beneath the -altar reposes all that is mortal of two -seventeenth century Franciscan missionaries -<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span> -to the New Mexico aborigines. Of one -of these, Padre Gerónimo de la Llana, I -cannot forbear a word of mention. He -was a true brother of Saint Francis, and -for many years ministered lovingly to the -Indians of the long since ruined pueblo of -Quaraí, a place of which more later. At -Quaraí he died in 1659, and his body was -interred in the old church there whose walls -still stand, one of the most striking ruins -in New Mexico. To his Indians he was -no less than a saint, and when (under attacks -from Apaches, doubtless) they abandoned -their pueblos about 1670, they bore -with them what remained of their dear -<i>padre santo</i> to Tajique, a pueblo some 15 -miles distant, and buried him there. But -in those days Apaches never ceased from -raiding, and from Tajique, too, some years -later, those Pueblo folk were forced to flee—this -time across the rugged Sierra Manzano -to Isleta on the Rio Grande. That -was a journey of too great hardship, I suppose, -to admit of carrying the now crumbled -padre with them; so he was left in his unmarked -tomb in a savage-harried land, to -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -be quite forgotten until 85 years later (in -1759) pious old Governor F. A. Marin del -Valle heard of him. A search was speedily -set on foot and after a long quest the bones -of Padre Gerónimo were found, brought to -Santa Fe, and becomingly once more interred. -Then, alas! the poor brother -dropped out of mind again until in 1880, -when during some work upon the new -Cathedral, the discovery of an inscription -set in the wall 121 years before by Governor -del Valle led to the finding of the grave. I -think you will be interested to read the -quaint Spanish epitaphs of this fine old -friar, and of his companion, too, Padre -Asencio de Zárate, sometime of Picurís -pueblo. They may be found behind the high -altar, which hides them.</p> -<p>Also in the Cathedral, it is believed, rests -the mortality of Don Diego de Vargas, <i>el -Reconquistador</i>, but unmarked. You will -find many an echo of him in Santa Fe, for -he it was who in 1692 re-conquered New -Mexico for Spain after the Pueblo uprising -of 1680 had swept the Spaniards out of -the province and for twelve years kept them -<span class="pb" id="Page_13">13</span> -out. Every year in June Santa Fe celebrates -its De Vargas Day, when a procession, -bearing at its head an image of the -Virgin, marches from the Cathedral to the -little Rosario Chapel that is dedicated to -Our Lady of the Rosary (or as Santa -Féans sometimes call her, <i>La Conquistadora</i>, -the Lady Conqueror). It occupies the spot, -on the city outskirts, where according to -tradition De Vargas knelt on the eve of his -second entry into the capital (December 16, -1693), and invoking the blessing of the -Virgin upon his arms, promised her a -chapel if she vouchsafed him victory on the -morrow. It is a scant half-hour’s stroll -thither from the Plaza, and you will enjoy -the walk through the city’s half foreign -scenes, though the building itself is disappointing -because of its handling by tasteless -renovators. Much more picturesque, though -modernized with an astonishing steeple, is -the little church of Guadalupe, standing -amid Lombardy poplars on the south bank -of the river. A quiet, reposeful, little -temple, this, with beautifully carved ceiling -beams and a curious, if crude, altar-piece -<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span> -representing the appearances of Mexico’s -Heavenly Patroness to Juan Diego.</p> -<p>Of the churches in Santa Fe, however, -the one that is made most of by visitors, is -the square-towered adobe of San Miguel. -It is a pleasant twenty-minute walk from -the Plaza (and, by all means, do walk when -you go, for the way thither is too picturesque -to be whisked over in an automobile)—through -quiet, unpaved streets lined with -one-storied adobe houses and often too -narrow to accommodate any but a mere -thread of sidewalk, where you bump into -burros and, like as not, have utter strangers -tip their hats to you with a <i>buenos dias, -señor</i>. You pass the Bishop’s sequestered -gardens and the high-walled grounds of the -Convent and Academy of the Sisters of -Loretto, with glimpses through a postern -gate of old-fashioned flower beds; and -further on, the touching little cemetery of -the Sisters, each simple grave marked by -a cross whereon vines and fragrant flowers -lean lovingly; and so, on stepping stones, to -the south side of the little Rio de Santa Fe. -Then mounting the hill past more gardens -<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span> -where hollyhocks—<i>la barra de San José</i> -(St. Joseph’s rod) the New Mexicans call -them—nod at you over the walls, and children -prattle in Spanish and women sing at -their work, there you are before old San -Miguel.</p> -<p>Your first feeling is a bit of a shock, for -the renovator’s hand has fallen heavily upon -San Miguel and, frankly speaking, it is a -rather hideous old church as viewed from -the street. When, however, you have rung -the sacristan’s bell and a Christian Brother -from the adjoining Catholic college has -come with the keys to usher you within, you -pass in a twinkling into the twilight heart -of the Seventeenth Century. Here are -blackened, old religious paintings said to -have been carried by the Conquistadores as -standards of defense in battle; a wonderful -old bell inscribed with a prayer to St. Joseph -and bearing an all but illegible date that -looks surprisingly like 1356, and maybe it -is; a charming old wooden cross-beam supporting -the <i>coro</i>, or choir gallery, its color -mellowed by time and its surface carved -with rude but beautiful flutings and flourishes -<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span> -by some long-vanished hand of the -wilderness; and so on—all delightfully embellished -by the naïve expositions of the -kindly Brother who acts as cicerone. And -do not leave without a glimpse through the -side door of the sunny quiet garden close, -that lies between the church and the college -building. As to the age of San Miguel, -there has been much misinformation given—claims -of its dating from 1543 being quite -groundless. The known fact is that it was -established as a chapel for the Mexican -(Tlascalan) Indians who were part of the -original Santa Fe colony. It therefore dates -from some time on the hither side of 1605. -In 1680 it suffered partial destruction in -the Pueblo uprising, though its walls survived; -and, after some repairs by order of -De Vargas, it was finally restored completely -in 1710, by the Spanish governor of -that time, the Marquis de la Peñuela. The -record of this fact inscribed in Spanish -upon the main beam of the gallery is still -one of the interesting “bits” in the church. -Probably it is safe to call San Miguel the -<span class="pb" id="Page_17">17</span> -oldest existing building for Christian worship -in the United States.</p> -<p>If you are in a hurry you may “do” -Santa Fe and its immediate environs in a -carriage or an automobile in a couple of -days, and departing secretly think it a rather -overrated little old place. To get into the -atmosphere of it, however, you should drop -hurry at its gates and make up your mind -to spend at least a week there, and longer -if you can. Lounge in the Plaza and watch -the ebb and flow of the city life that -gathers here; drop into the Indian trading -stores and get a taste for aboriginal -art. White man’s schooling has brought -about of late years a decline in the quality -of Indian handicraft, but there is still a lot -of interest in these Santa Fe curio shops—Navajo -and Chímayo blankets, Pueblo pottery, -Navajo silver jewelry, Apache baskets, -moccasins, bead-work, quaint tobacco pouches, -Spanish and Mexican things—<i>serapes</i>, -<i>mantillas</i>, rusty daggers, old silver snuff -boxes—and what not. Mount the hill at -the city’s northern edge, and sit on the -<span class="pb" id="Page_18">18</span> -ruined walls of the old <i>garita</i> (where the -Mexican customs used to be levied upon -imports by the Santa Fe Trail). There you -get a magnificent bird’s-eye view of the -city in its mountain fastness, and if the day -be waning you will have a sunset for your -benediction, long to remember. Extend -your rambles sometimes to the outskirts for -unadvertised sights—the little ranches with -their outdoor threshing floors of beaten -earth where in August you may see the -wheat tramped out by horses, sheep or goats, -and winnowed by tossing in the breeze; -<i>paisanas</i> washing their linen on stones by -the brookside as in Italy or Spain; and the -gaunt <i>descansos</i> or crosses of rest, marking -stopping places of funerals, and carving in -illiterate Spanish scrawled upon the wood, -prayers for the repose of departed souls. If -you are fortunate enough to have a little -Spanish, your enjoyment will be enhanced -by stopping at humble doorways for a bit -of chat with Juan Bautista the woodchopper, -or Maria Rosalía the laundress. You will -be civilly welcome, if you yourself are civil, -and be handed a chair, if there be one, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span> -will be refreshed to learn something of the -essential oneness and kindliness of the -human family whether clothed in white skin -or brown. It is this pervading air of Old -Worldliness that makes the peculiar charm -of Santa Fe for the leisurely traveler—its -romance and its history are not altogether -hidden away in books, but are an obvious -part of its living present.</p> -<p>Moreover, Santa Fe is the starting point -for numerous interesting out-of-town trips. -These are story for another chapter.<a class="fn" id="fr_5" href="#fn_5">[5]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div> -<h2 id="c2">CHAPTER II -<br /><span class="small">THE UPPER RIO GRANDE, ITS PUEBLOS AND ITS CLIFF DWELLINGS</span></h2> -<p>Of course you must make the trip—a half -day will suffice for it—from Santa Fe to -Tesuque, a village of the Pueblo Indians 9 -miles to the north, and you should pronounce -it <i>Te-soo´kay</i>. If your knowledge of Indians -has been limited to the variety seen in Wild -West Shows and historical pictures, you will -be surprised at those you find at Tesuque. -This is a quaint adobe village around a -spacious plaza upon which an ancient, whitewashed -Catholic church faces. The houses -when of more than one story are built terrace-like, -so that the roof of the first story -forms a front yard to the second. Ladders -lean against the outer walls, by which access -is gained to the upper rooms. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_21">21</span> -population of about 150 live very much like -their Mexican neighbors, raising by irrigation -crops of corn, beans, peaches, melons, -and alfalfa, accepting meanwhile from the -liberal hand of Nature rabbits, <i>piñones</i> and -wild plums, and pasturing sheep and cattle -on the communal pueblo lands which Spain -granted them centuries ago and which our -Government confirmed to them upon the -acquisition of New Mexico. Their method -of town building is not borrowed from the -whites, but is their own; and because the -Spanish Conquistadores of the sixteenth century -found the region sprinkled with such -permanent villages, called <i>pueblos</i> in Spanish, -they named the people Pueblo Indians—a -term which well characterizes them in contra-distinction -to the nomadic tribes, whose -villages moved as the tribe moved.</p> -<p>Tesuque is a type of a score or so of -pueblos scattered along a line of some 300 -miles in northern New Mexico and Arizona. -Formerly the dress of these Indians was -quite distinctive, but association with the -whites has modified its quality of late years, -though it still retains some of the old features—particularly -<span class="pb" id="Page_22">22</span> -in the case of the women, -who are more disposed than the men to -conservatism. Their native costume is a -dark woolen gown belted at the waist and -falling a little below the knees, and a sort -of cape of colored muslin fastened about -the neck and hanging down the back. The -lower part of the legs is often swathed in a -buckskin extension of the moccasins in -which the feet are encased. The hair is -banged low upon the forehead and both -women’s and men’s are clubbed at the back -and bound with red yarn. The native attire -of the men is a loose cotton shirt worn outside -short, wide trousers. Instead of a hat -a narrow <i>banda</i> of colored cotton or silk -is bound about the hair.</p> -<p>Each village has its local government—and -a very competent sort it is—of a democratic -nature, a governor, as well as a few -other officials, being elected annually by -popular vote. Besides these, there is a permanent -council of old men who assist in the -direction of affairs. Most of the Pueblo -Indians are nominal adherents to Roman -Catholicism, but have by no means lost hold -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -of their pagan faith. On the patron saint’s -day a public fiesta is always held. After -mass in the church, there are native dances -and ceremonies, accompanied by feasting -continuing well into the night. November -12, St. James’s Day, is the day celebrated -by Tesuque, and visitors are many.<a class="fn" id="fr_6" href="#fn_6">[6]</a></p> -<p>The Pueblos are as a class industrious, -fun-loving, and friendly to white visitors. -They are naturally hospitable and quickly -responsive to any who treat them sympathetically -and as fellow human beings. The -lamentable fact that white Americans have -too often failed in this respect, acting towards -them as though they were animals in -a zoo, is largely responsible for tales we -hear of Indian surliness and ill-will. Pueblo -women are skillful potters, and while Tesuque -does not now excel in this art, one may -<span class="pb" id="Page_24">24</span> -pick up some interesting souvenirs both in -clay and beadwork. At any rate, you will -enjoy seeing these things being made in the -common living-room of the house, while -the corn is being ground on the <i>metates</i> or -mealing stones, and the mutton stew simmers -on the open hearth. A knowledge of -values first obtained at reputable traders’ -shops in Santa Fe, is advisable, however, -before negotiating directly with the Indians, -as they are becoming pretty well schooled -in the art of charging “all the traffic will -bear.” Tesuque produces a specialty in the -shape of certain dreadful little pottery images -called “rain gods,” which must not be -taken seriously as examples of sound Pueblo -art.<a class="fn" id="fr_7" href="#fn_7">[7]</a></p> -<p>Thirty-three miles north of Santa Fe on -the Denver and Rio Grande Railway is the -village of Española, where a plain but comfortable -hotel makes a convenient base for -visiting several points of interest in the upper -<span class="pb" id="Page_25">25</span> -Rio Grande Valley. A mile to the south -is Santa Clara pueblo,<a class="fn" id="fr_8" href="#fn_8">[8]</a> long famous for its -beautiful shining black pottery almost Etruscan -in shape. The clay naturally burns red, -but a second baking with the fuel (dried -chips of cattle manure), pulverized finely -and producing a dense black smoke, gives -the ware its characteristic lustrous black. -Seven miles further down the river but on -the other side, is another pueblo, San Ildefonso, -a picturesque village of 125 Indians, -near the base of La Mesa Huérfana. This -is a flat-topped mountain of black lava, -on whose summit in 1693, several hundred -Pueblos entrenched themselves and for eight -months stubbornly resisted the attempts of -the Spanish under De Vargas to bring them -to terms. That was practically the last stand -of Pueblo rebeldom, which thirteen years -before had driven every Spaniard from the -land. San Ildefonso has public fiestas on -January 23 and September 6.</p> -<p>Six miles north of Española and close to -the Rio Grande is San Juan pueblo, with a -population of about 400 Indians. Here one -<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span> -is in the very cradle of the white civilization -of the Southwest. At this spot in the -summer of 1598, Don Juan de Oñate—he -of the Conquest—arrived with his little -army of Spaniards, his Franciscan missionaries, -his colonist families, a retinue of -servants and Mexican Indians, his wagons -and cattle, to found the capital of the newly -won “kingdom” later to be called New -Mexico. The courtesy of the Indians there, -who temporarily gave up their own houses -to the Spaniards, was so marked that their -pueblo became known as <i>San Juan de los -Caballeros</i> (Saint John of the Gentlemen). -Oñate’s settlement—of which no vestige -now remains—is believed to have been situated -just across the Rio Grande from San -Juan, about where the hamlet and railway -station of Chamita now stands. San Juan -pueblo is further distinguished as the birthplace -of Popé, the Indian to whose executive -genius is due the success of the Pueblo Rebellion -of 1680. A picturesque figure, that -same Popé, of the timber dramatic heroes -are made of. It is said that, while meditating -the rebellion, he journeyed to the enchanted -<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span> -lagoon of Shípapu, the place where -in the dim past the Pueblos had emerged -from the underworld and whither they return -at death. There he conferred with the -spirits of his ancestors, who endued him -with power to lead his people to victory.<a class="fn" id="fr_9" href="#fn_9">[9]</a> -The San Juan women make a good black -pottery similar to that of Santa Clara. On -Saint John’s Day, June 24, occurs a public -fiesta, with procession and dances, attracting -visitors, white and red, from far and near.</p> -<p>Having got thus far up the Rio Grande, -let nothing deter you from visiting Taos -(they pronounce it <i>Towss</i>). By automobile -it is about 50 miles northeast of Española -or you can reach it quite expeditiously by -Denver & Rio Grande train to Taos Junction -and auto-connection thence about 30 -miles to Taos.<a class="fn" id="fr_10" href="#fn_10">[10]</a> Situated in a fertile plain, -7000 feet above the sea, in the heart of -the Southern Rockies, Taos is one of the -most charming places in America. It is in -<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span> -three parts. There is the outlying hamlet -Ranchos de Taos; then the picturesque Mexican -town Fernandez de Taos, famous in -recent years for a resident artist colony -whose pictures have put Taos in the world -of art; and lastly, there is the pueblo of -Taos. From very early times the pueblo -has played an important role in New Mexican -history. It was here the San Juaneño -Popé found the readiest response to his -plans of rebellion. Later the location on -the confines of the Great Plains made it an -important trading center with the more -northern Indians. The annual summer fair -for <i>cambalache</i>, or traffic by barter, held at -Taos in the latter part of the eighteenth century, -was a famous event, the Plains tribes -bringing skins and furs and Indian captives -to trade for horses, beads and metal implements. -The commercial opportunities combined -with the fertility of the soil and an -unfailing water supply led to the founding -of Fernandez de Taos by whites. In the -days of Mexican supremacy part of the -traffic over the Santa Fe Trail passed this -way and a custom house was here. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_29">29</span> -ruins of a large adobe church in the pueblo -form a memento of the troublous days of -1847, when a small rebellion participated in -by Mexicans and a few Taos Indians took -place here and the American governor, Bent, -was murdered. At Fernandez de Taos, -the famous frontiersman Kit Carson lived -for many years, and here his grave may -still be seen.</p> -<p>Taos pueblo, housing an Indian population -of about 500, is the most northern in -New Mexico, and perhaps the most perfect -specimen existing of Pueblo architecture. -It consists of two imposing pyramidal house -clusters of 5 to 7 stories—aboriginal apartment -houses—and between them happily -flows the little Rio de Taos sparkling out of -the Glorieta Cañon near whose mouth the -pueblo stands. The three-mile drive or -walk from Fernandez de Taos is very lovely, -with the pueblo’s noble background of -mountains before you, their purple and -green flanks wonderfully mottled and dashed -in autumn with the gold of the aspen -forests. The men of Taos are a tall, athletic -sort, quite different in appearance -<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span> -from the more southern Pueblos. They wear -the hair parted in the middle and done at -the side in two braids which hang in front -of the shoulders. They are much addicted -to their blankets; and one often sees them -at work with the blankets fastened about -the waist and falling to the knees like a -skirt. In warm weather they sometimes -substitute a muslin sheet for the woolen -blanket, and few sights are more striking -than a Taos man thus muffled to his eyebrows -in pure white.</p> -<p>Annually on September 30th occurs the -<i>Fiesta de San Gerónimo de Taos</i>, which is -one of the most largely attended of all -Pueblo functions. Crowds of Americans, -Mexicans and Indians (a sprinkling of -Apaches among Pueblos of several sorts) -line the terraced pyramids and make a scene -so brilliant and strange that one wonders -that it can be in America. The evening before, -near sundown, there is a beautiful -Indian dance in the plaza of the pueblo, the -participants bearing branches of quivering -aspens. With the sunset light upon the -orange and yellow of the foliage as the -<span class="pb" id="Page_31">31</span> -evening shadows gather, it is an unforgettable -sight. Yes, you must by all means -see Taos. There are hotel accommodations -at Fernandez de Taos.<a class="fn" id="fr_11" href="#fn_11">[11]</a></p> -<p>But Española serves, too, as a base for -outings of quite another sort. One of these -is to the remarkable prehistoric cliff village -known as the Puyé in the Santa Clara -Cañon, about 10 miles west of Española. -Here at the edge of a pine forest a vast -tufa cliff rises, its face marked with pictographs -of unknown antiquity and honeycombed -with dwellings of a vanished people, -probably ancestors, of some of the present-day -Pueblos.<a class="fn" id="fr_12" href="#fn_12">[12]</a> These cliff chambers are -quite small, and their walls bear still the -soot from prehistoric fires. Climbing by -an ancient trail to the summit of the mesa -of which the cliff is a side, you come upon -the leveled ruins of what was once a magnificent, -<span class="pb" id="Page_32">32</span> -terraced community house, built -of tufa blocks and containing hundreds of -rooms. Rambling from room to room, -picking up now a bit of broken pottery, now -a charred corn-cob, poking into the ashes -of fireplaces where the last embers were -quenched before history in America began, -you experience, I hope, a becoming sense of -your youth as a white American. And the -view from this noble tableland—a view -those ancient people had every day of their -lives! One wonders had they eyes to see -it—the lovely valley of the Rio Grande, -purple chain after chain of mountains on -every side, the jagged peaks of the Sangre -de Cristo, the Glorietas, the Jemes, and dim -on the far horizon, the Sierra Blanca in -Colorado.</p> -<p>Also dotting the same plateau (this region -by the way, is now called Pajarito<a class="fn" id="fr_13" href="#fn_13">[13]</a> -Park) are numerous other prehistoric community -houses—the Otowi (with its curious -tent-like rock formations), the Tsánkawi, -the Tchrega—all of absorbing interest to -the archaeologic mind, but offering not much -<span class="pb" id="Page_33">33</span> -that seems new to the average tourist who -has seen the Puyé. One, however, known -as the Tyuonyi in the cañon of the Rito -de los Frijoles<a class="fn" id="fr_14" href="#fn_14">[14]</a> should not be missed. It -may be reached via Buckman, a station on -the D. & R. G. 12 miles south of Española. -Thence it is about 15 miles over all sorts of -a road to the brink of Frijoles Cañon. A -steep foot-trail there leads you down, a thousand -feet or more, into the gorge and after -a short walk you are at the comfortable -ranch house of Judge A. G. Abbott, custodian -of the Bandelier National Monument, -under which name the neighboring ruins -are officially designated by the United States -Government, which owns them.<a class="fn" id="fr_15" href="#fn_15">[15]</a> Considered -merely as scenery, the little, secluded -cañon is one of the loveliest spots in New -Mexico, with its stretches of emerald meadows, -<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span> -its perennial stream and its peaceful -forest of stately pines. But it is the human -interest given by the vacant houses of a -forgotten race—the cavate dwellings of the -pink and white tufa cliffs and the ruined -communal dwellings on the cañon floor and -on the mesa top near by—that brings most -visitors. That noted ethnologist, the late -Adolf F. Bandelier, wrote a romance with -the scene laid here and at the Puyé. It is -entitled “The Delightmakers,” and a reading -of it will not only lend a living interest -to these places, but yield a world of information -as to the mind and customs of the -Pueblo Indians. Visitors have the School -of American Archaeology at Santa Fe to -thank for the painstaking work of excavation -extending over years, that uncovered -many of these ancient dwelling places of -their centuries of accumulated debris.</p> -<p>To return to Española. Ten miles to the -eastward in the valley of the Santa Cruz -river is the quaint little church of Santuario, -a sort of New Mexican Lourdes, famous -these many years for its miraculous cures. -A trip thither makes a noteworthy day’s -<span class="pb" id="Page_35">35</span> -outing. It may be done by automobile over -a road of many tribulations, but a horse -and buggy are more satisfactory and far -more in keeping with the primitive country. -My own visit was achieved on foot, eased -by a lift of a couple of miles from a kindly -Mexican on horseback, who set me up behind -him, <i>en ancas</i>, as they call it. It was -mid-August—a season which in northern -New Mexico is as sunshiny and showery as -a sublimated Eastern April. The intense -blue of the sky was blotted here and there -with piled-up cloud masses, which broke at -times in streamers of rain upon the purple -ranges of the Sangre de Cristo ahead of me—and -after that, descending shafts of light. -As soon as I had crossed the Rio Grande -and Española was behind me, I was in pure -Mexico. The Santa Cruz Valley is an agricultural -region, but it is the agriculture of -centuries ago that is in vogue there. Wheat, -for instance, is trodden out by horses, sheep -or goats, on outdoor threshing floors of -beaten earth, winnowed by tossing shovelfuls -into the air, washed of its grit and dirt -in the nearest <i>acéquia</i>, then spread out in -<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span> -the sun to dry, and finally ground in primitive -little log mills whose rumbling stones -are turned by tiny water wheels. Little -New Mexican Davids, bare of foot and -dreamy-eyed, loiter along behind their nibbling -flocks in the stubble of the shorn -fields or the wild herbage of the river bottom. -Peaches and melons, onions and corn, -lie drying on the roofs, and strips of meat -hang “jerking” from stretched lines in the -<i>plazitas</i> of the houses. The cross is still a -dominant feature in this land of yesterday. -Now it glitters on the belfry of the family -chapel among the trees of some ranch; now -it is outlined against the sky on the crest -of a hill, a <i>calvario</i> of the Penitentes;<a class="fn" id="fr_16" href="#fn_16">[16]</a> now -it crowns a heap of stones by the wayside, -where a funeral has stopped to rest.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<p>Of the villages strewn along this delightful -way, some are hamlets of half a dozen -straggling little adobes drowsing under their -rustling cottonwoods. Others are more important. -One particularly I remember—Santo -Niño. That means “village of the -Holy Child,” and His peace that placid -morning seemed to rest upon it. The -streets were narrow shady lanes, where -irrigation ditches running full made a -murmuring music, flowing now by adobe -walls, now by picket fences where hollyhocks -and marigolds and morning-glories -looked pleasantly out. It was a village -not of houses merely, but of comfortable -old orchards, too, and riotous gardens -where corn and beans, chilis and melons -locked elbows in happy comradery. I think -every one I met was Mexican—the women -in sombre black rebosos, the men more or -less unkempt and bandit-appearing in ample-crowned -sombreros, yet almost without exception -offering me the courtesy of a raised -hand and a <i>buenos dias, señor</i>. Santa Cruz -de la Cañada—another of these villages—deserves -a special word of mention, for next -<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span> -to Santa Fe it is the oldest officially established -<i>villa</i> (a form of Spanish organized -town), in New Mexico, dating as such from -1695, though in its unincorporated state -antedating the Pueblo Rebellion. Long a -place of importance, its ancient glory paled -as Santa Fe and Albuquerque grew. Today -it numbers a scant couple of hundred inhabitants, -but it is interesting to the tourist -for its fine old church facing the grassy plaza -of the village. The church interior is enriched -with a number of ancient pictures and -carvings of an excellence beyond one’s expectations.</p> -<p>Then there is Chímayo, into which you -pass just before crossing the river to Santuario. -To the general public Chímayo -appeals because of its blankets and its apricots, -but to me it remains a place of tender -memory because of a certain hospitable -<i>tienda de abarrotes</i> (or, as we should say, -grocery store). Entering it in the hope of -finding crackers and cheese, wherewith to -make a wayside luncheon, I was given instead -a characteristic Mexican meal as exquisitely -cooked as ever I had; yet it was -<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span> -but a couple of corn tortillas, a bowl of pink -beans done to liquidity, and a cup of black -coffee. As to the blankets of Chímayo, they -are woven in sizes from a pillow-cover to a -bed-spread, of Germantown yarn, and you -find them on sale everywhere in the curio -shops of the Southwest, competing in a -modest way with the Navajo product. The -weaving is a fireside industry, prosecuted -in the intervals of other work both by women -and men, and the bump-bump of the -primitive looms is the characteristic melody -of the place.</p> -<p>I had to ford the little river, shoes and -stockings in hand, to reach Santuario, and -was not sure when I got there. An old -<i>paisano</i>, sitting in the shade of a wall, informed -me, however, that the little cluster -of adobes on a hillside, into which I soon -came from the river, was really the place—“of -great fame, señor. Here come people -of all nations to be cured—Mexicans, -Americans, Apaches—from far, very far.” -The adobe church, half hidden behind some -huge cottonwoods, was open—of crude construction -without and within, but very picturesque. -<span class="pb" id="Page_40">40</span> -Passing within the wooden doors, -which are curiously carved with a maze of -lettering that I found it impossible to decipher, -I was in a twilight faintly illumined -by the shining of many candles set upon the -floor in front of a gaudy altar. Upon the -walls hung beskirted figures of saints in -various colors and wearing tin crowns. -There were, too, crude little shrines upon -which pilgrims had scrawled their names. -A figure of San Diego on horseback with a -quirt on his wrist, cowboy style, was particularly -lively, I thought. In a room adjoining -the altar is a hole from which -pilgrims take handfuls of earth—red adobe, -apparently—the outward instrumentality -that is depended upon for the cures.</p> -<p>The history of this queer chapel is interesting. -Long before it was built the -efficacy of that hole of earth was believed -far and wide, and the place resorted to by -health seekers. Finally in 1816 a pious -<i>paisano</i> named Bernardo Abeyta, who had -prospered greatly in his affairs, was impelled -to erect this church as a testimony of gratitude -to God. Dying he bequeathed it to -<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span> -Doña Carmen Chaves, his daughter, who -kept for all comers the church and its pit of -healing, and lived in a modest way upon the -fees which grateful pilgrims bestowed upon -her. After her death, the property descended -to her daughter, who maintains it in the -same way. It is said the fame of the spot -is known even in old Mexico, whence pilgrims -sometimes come.<a class="fn" id="fr_17" href="#fn_17">[17]</a> The earth is -utilized either internally dissolved in water, -or outwardly made into a mud wash and -rubbed on the body. The chapel is dedicated -to <i>El Señor de Esquipulas</i>—the Christ of -Esquipulas—Esquipulas being a little village -of Guatemala whose great church enshrines -a famous image of the Lord believed to perform -miraculous cures.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_42">42</div> -<p>For a glimpse in small compass of the -unsuspected picturesqueness of rural New -Mexico, I know of nothing better than this -little jaunt from Española to Santuario.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>NOTE: Horseback tours through the Pecos -and Santa Fe National Forests are practicabilities, -with Santa Fe, Española or Buckman as a base. -There is a company or two at Santa Fe that -make a specialty of outfitting parties, furnishing -riding and pack animals, cooks and all needful -accessories, for a fixed sum. Trout fishing is -good in many of the mountain streams. You may -arrange your own itinerary, or if you do not -know what you want, trips will be outlined to -suit your particular interests. In the latter event, -a consultation with the Supervisor of the Santa -Fe National Forest, whose office is in Santa Fe, -would be helpful. For people of sound wind who -like to see the world from mountain tops, a trip -over the Dalton Trail to the Pecos River and -thence to the Truchas Peaks is repaying. From -that elevation of about 13,000 feet, there is a -magnificent outlook over much of New Mexico -and some of Colorado and Arizona.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div> -<h2 id="c3">CHAPTER III -<br /><span class="small">ROUNDABOUT ALBUQUERQUE</span></h2> -<p>Albuquerque is the metropolis and trade -heart of central New Mexico, and the -talk of its solid citizens runs naturally on -cattle and wool, mines and lumber, grapes -and apples and the agricultural glories of -the Rio Grande valley. The average tourist -gives it only the half-hour during which -the train stops there, and remembers it -mainly for the noteworthy Harvey Indian -collection at the station (a liberal education, -by the way, in the handicraft of the Southwestern -aborigines) and for the snap-shots -he tried to take (and was foiled in) of the -picturesque Pueblo pottery sellers on the -platform.<a class="fn" id="fr_18" href="#fn_18">[18]</a> In itself, indeed, the busy little -city has not a great deal that is distinctive -<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span> -enough to interest tourists excepting the -Spanish quarter known as Old Albuquerque, -on the outskirts—a picturesque survival of -the Hispanic regime. There stands the old -church dedicated to the city’s patron saint, -San Felipe. As a base to visit certain other -places, however, Albuquerque is very convenient. -For instance, there is the pueblo -of Isleta, 12 miles south.</p> -<p>It is from Isleta that many of the pottery -makers come whom you see offering their -wares on the railway platform at Albuquerque, -and a pleasant day may be put in -rambling about the streets of the pueblo, -chatting and trafficking with the hospitable -people, who are a very wide-awake, independent -sort of Indians. You may go -thither by train; or you may drive (a much -better way), following the west bank of -the Rio Grande, and enjoying the beauty -of a typical bit of rural New Mexico, now -austere and sun-scorched, now relenting in -vineyards, fields of corn and lush alfalfa, -and orchards of apple and peach, sandwiched -between sleepy little Mexican villages smothered -in trees and old-fashioned flowers. -<span class="pb" id="Page_45">45</span> -Much of New Mexico is as foreign in aspect -as Spain, and the flat-roofed, eaveless -ranch houses, low and rambling, with enclosed -plazitas, and high-walled corrals -adjoining, into which the teams are driven -at night and the gates shut to the outer -world, bring to you the atmosphere of Don -Quixote or Lazarillo de Tormes. Architecturally, -Isleta differs widely from the -orthodox pueblo type, its houses being -usually of one story and extended over a -liberal area, as must needs be to shelter its -thousand or so of people. They are quite -up-to-date farmers, these Isleteños, and the -pueblo is as busy at harvest time as a beehive, -what with fruit drying, corn husking, -and alfalfa baling.<a class="fn" id="fr_19" href="#fn_19">[19]</a> Their homes are -generally neatly kept, often adorned within -with bright-colored blankets, pretty water -ollas, and the whitewashed walls hung with -pictures of Virgin and saints—impressing -you as homes of a thrifty and well-doing -race. Indeed these people are reputed the -<span class="pb" id="Page_46">46</span> -richest of all the Pueblos. It is, I believe, -a matter of record that in 1862, when a -detachment of the United States army was -stranded penniless in New Mexico, an Isleta -Indian loaned it $18,000 cash, simply taking -the commander’s receipt as evidence. -After waiting patiently for twelve years -for the government to have the politeness -to return the money without being asked -for it, and hearing nothing, he and the -governor of Isleta, accompanied by the local -United States Indian agent, made a trip to -Washington to see about it. Through the -personal interest of President Grant, the -money was at last returned.</p> -<p>On August 28, St. Augustine’s Day, -occurs the annual public fiesta, with the -usual open air Indian dances after mass -in the church. The large circular <i>estufa</i>, -or native ceremonial chamber, entered by a -ladder let down through an opening in the -roof, is a conspicuous feature of the pueblo. -You will find such places, in one form or -another, in all the Pueblo villages, and in -the Cliff Dwellers’ towns. They were -originally used as the sleeping apartments -<span class="pb" id="Page_47">47</span> -of the men. Nowadays the men sleep at -home, but the <i>estufas</i> are still resorted to -by them as a sort of club-room or lounge -when religious ceremonies are not going -on inside. Despite membership in the -Roman Catholic Church the average Pueblo’s -main hold on the unseen that is eternal -is through his primitive pagan faith, whose -rites he still practices. Entrance to the -<i>estufas</i> is not, as a rule, readily granted -to white people, and should never be undertaken -without permission first obtained. -As a matter of fact, there is on ordinary -occasions nothing to see but a dimly lighted -chamber with bare floor and walls, and a -small, boxed-in fire-pit near the base of the -ladder.</p> -<p>To the big old adobe church of Saint -Augustine in the center of the pueblo, there -attaches a queer legend sure to delight the -traveler whose interest is less in historical -verities than in the fanciful flights of the -human mind. I refer to the tradition of -the Rising of Padre Padilla’s Coffin. Among -the Franciscan friars who accompanied -Coronado on his famous march to what he -<span class="pb" id="Page_48">48</span> -called Quivira—the country of the Wichita -Indians in Kansas—was Padre Juan de -Padilla. This intrepid servant of God -(when Coronado turned homeward), remained -with two lay brothers on the Kansas -plains with the view of Christianizing those -Indians. The outcome of the matter was -that he was killed by them on November -30, 1544. Now tradition has it that somehow -in the heavenly ordering, the body of -the martyred padre got miraculously transferred -from Kansas to a place under the -church altar at Isleta; and it is firmly believed -(and the belief is backed up by the -circumstantial testimony of solid citizens) -that periodically the coffin, which is a section -of a hollowed cottonwood trunk, rises -plainly to view in the church, disclosing to -whomsoever may then be present, the padre -rather mummified but still in his black -whiskers. To prove it there are people who -will show you bits of his gown nipped off -surreptitiously by eye-witnesses and preserved -as precious amulets.<a class="fn" id="fr_20" href="#fn_20">[20]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_49">49</div> -<p>Northward from Albuquerque for 40 -miles, the beautiful valley of the Rio Grande -contains much of appeal to the student of -history and of Indian life. That is the -region called in the chronicle of Coronado’s -expedition, the Province of Tigüex (pronounced -<i>tee-wesh</i>); and here that doughty -conquistador spent his first New Mexican -winter (1540-41) at a pueblo now vanished, -in the neighborhood, it is believed, of the -picturesque town of Bernalillo<a class="fn" id="fr_21" href="#fn_21">[21]</a> 17 miles -north of Albuquerque. It was a winter so -marked with wanton deeds of deviltry by -the soldiery towards the peaceably disposed -natives, that the whole region was soon -seething in revolt—but helpless revolt because -of the guns and horses of those profligate -swashbucklers, who disgraced the -Christianity they professed.</p> -<p>Several pueblos are still extant in that -stretch. There is Sandia, a moribund little -<span class="pb" id="Page_50">50</span> -place 10 miles from Albuquerque, and within -walking distance of Alameda Station on the -railway, but hardly worth the trip. North -of Bernalillo a couple of miles is a summer -pueblo, Ranchitos de Santa Ana (the little -farms of Santa Ana), occupied during the -growing season by Indians whose home -pueblo, Santa Ana, is a dozen miles to the -northwest in a virtual desert overlooking -the saline flats of the Jemes River. Thither -they go to dwell in winter and eat up the -crops raised in summer beside the great -river. In the same direction 13 miles beyond -Santa Ana (25 from Bernalillo) is the -important pueblo of the Jemes (<i>Hay´-mes</i>) -Indians, about 500 in number.<a class="fn" id="fr_22" href="#fn_22">[22]</a> The -village is beautifully situated at the mouth -of San Diego Cañon. Its public fiesta is -held on St. James’s Day, November 12, and -is much attended by Americans, Mexicans, -<span class="pb" id="Page_51">51</span> -Pueblos, Navajos and Apaches. The region -nearby is sprinkled with ruins of old -pueblos which are the subject of considerable -literature of the antiquarian sort. A -capital and reliable popular article on the -Jemes Indians by Mr. A. B. Reagan, appeared -in the April, 1917, issue of “El -Palacio,” the journal of the Archaeological -Society of New Mexico. A few miles before -reaching Jemes the traveler passes the -once powerful, but now small pueblo of -Sia (<i>See-a</i>), with a population of barely -100. Its decline is attributed in part to remorseless -inter-killing on suspicion of witchcraft, -a sort of superstition that the Pueblos, -unlike ourselves, have not yet outgrown. -Its festival is on August 15, the Feast of -the Assumption of Our Lady, and is attended -by many visiting Indians, especially Navajos, -who give it a special tinge of picturesqueness. -From Albuquerque Jemes may be -reached directly by auto-mail stage which -passes the pueblo and then proceeds 13 -miles further to Jemes Springs postoffice in -San Diego Cañon. Near this place are some -medicinal springs of local repute—iron, soda -<span class="pb" id="Page_52">52</span> -and sulphur—and a modest hotel of the -country sort. The stage leaves Albuquerque -daily except Sunday, and if you do not -mind a bit of roughing it, the trip (about -50 miles to Jemes pueblo) will be an experience -to talk about.</p> -<p>Continuing up the Rio Grande from -Bernalillo, you next come (10 miles from -Bernalillo, or 3 from Algodones Station on -the Santa Fe) to the pueblo of San Felipe -at the foot of a long, black, treeless mesa -on the west bank of the river. Its fine, -white Mission church, dating back some 200 -years, is a prominent sight from the car -windows of Santa Fe trains. The ruins of -a previous church and pueblo of the San -Felipeños are visible on the summit of the -mesa, and a climb to them will reward you, -at least with a fine view of the Rio Grande -valley. San Felipe’s principal public fiesta -is held May 1.</p> -<p>Another dozen miles up the river—but -now on the east side—is the pueblo of Santo -Domingo, whose 800 Indians are about the -most set-in-their-ways of any in New -Mexico. This conservatism serves, however, -<span class="pb" id="Page_53">53</span> -to make their Green Corn Dance (held -on August 4, the feast day of their patron -Saint Dominic), of especial worth, because -the ceremony has been comparatively little -debased by the hybrid innovations which -are spoiling many of the native rites of the -Pueblos. There are some preliminary ceremonies -the afternoon before, which it is -interesting to view. The pueblo is easily -reached, as it is but a couple of miles from -Domingo station on the Santa Fe railway. -The visitor is forewarned that there is a -particularly strong objection at Santo -Domingo to picture-taking and cameras are -blacklisted. Even artists of the brush have -been ejected from the village. In passing, -it should be stated that the dances of the -Pueblos are not jollifications as among white -people, but religious ceremonials—expressions -of thanksgiving to their supernal -protectors for blessings received and prayers -for favors to come, as rain and bountiful -crops. Santo Domingo is famous for its -beautiful pottery—a heavy ware, but remarkable -for an almost Greek grace of -<span class="pb" id="Page_54">54</span> -form, adorned with geometric designs in -black on pink or creamy white.</p> -<p>Still ascending the Rio Grande, you -reach (by a pleasant drive of 10 miles from -Domingo Station) the pueblo of Cochití -(<i>co-chee-teé</i>), where the ethnologist Bandelier -once lived for a time, and studied the -race he came to know so well. It has more -the appearance of a Mexican village than -of an Indian pueblo, for the houses are -generally of one story and detached one -from another. The people, too (there are -about 250), seem more or less Mexicanized, -but are hospitable and good-natured. The -local tradition is that it was the ancestors of -the Cochiteños who occupied the cliff dwellings -of the Rito de los Frijoles. One who -is robust enough for horseback tours may -secure a guide at Cochití and ascend to that -wild and beautiful region by immemorial -trails through a rugged mountain country -dotted with ruins of several former homes -and shrines of the Cochití people, who in -prehistoric times seem to have been confirmed -wanderers. The principal public -fiesta at this pueblo occurs on July 14, Saint -<span class="pb" id="Page_55">55</span> -Bonaventure’s Day, and is well worth attending, -though I know of no especial features -distinguishing it. Pottery is made -here, too—some of it of a queer type running -to animal forms, corpulent and impossible. -Both Cochití and Santo Domingo -may be readily visited in one day, if arrangements -are made in advance through -the Santa Fe agent at Domingo. They are -equally easy of access from Santa Fe and -Albuquerque.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_56">56</div> -<h2 id="c4">CHAPTER IV -<br /><span class="small">THE DEAD CITIES OF THE SALINES</span></h2> -<p>Southeasterly from Albuquerque some 20 -miles the Manzano Mountains lift their piny -crests and drift southward to the Gallinas. -From their feet eastward stretches the wide -treeless Estancia Valley, and in the lap of -it lies a noteworthy cluster of saline ponds -and lagoons, whose bitter waters, shining -in the blistering sun, are a mockery to the -thirsty. These are “the accursed lakes”<a class="fn" id="fr_23" href="#fn_23">[23]</a> -of Pueblo tradition—originally fresh and -abounding in fish, they say, but now lifeless -and undrinkable, cursed of the ancient gods -because of the sinfulness of a witch who -dwelt there once. If you would know how -this change came about, you should read the -<span class="pb" id="Page_57">57</span> -tale called “The Accursed Lake” in Mr. -Charles F. Lummis’s delightful book “Pueblo -Indian Folk Stories.” These lakes are -all heavily alkaline except one and that is -saline—a source of salt from time immemorial -to the Indians of the pueblos. Coming -from near and far, they would plant -their prayer plumes by its white margin -and sprinkle its waves with sacred meal in -recognition of the divine largesse they were -about to receive. For the Indian tradition -is that this lake was the abode of a divinity -whom they called Salt Old Woman or Salt -Mother, and the salt was her free gift to -men. She is circumstantially described as -wearing white boots and a white cotton -dress, and carrying in her hand a white -abalone shell, which was so soft and pliable -that she could fold it like a handkerchief.<a class="fn" id="fr_24" href="#fn_24">[24]</a> -It is said the salt of this lake has found its -way through barter to Parral in Old Mexico.</p> -<p>To the tourist the attraction in the Estancia -Valley is the presence of some quaint -old plaza villages dating from the days of -the Spanish occupation, and certain imposing -<span class="pb" id="Page_58">58</span> -ruins of Franciscan Mission churches of -seventeenth century construction standing -in the midst of crumbled Pueblo towns. -These are not in the open valley but in the -foothills of the Manzanos and the Gallinas, -and are easily visited from Mountainair, an -American town on the “Belén Cut-off” of -the Santa Fe Railway. Here is a small hotel, -and automobiles may be hired.</p> -<p>The most famous of the ruins is the Gran -Quivira at the edge of the Gallinas foothills, -24 miles south of Mountainair. They are -the remains of a large pueblo of low, stone -houses, covering altogether about 80 acres -and once housing perhaps a couple of thousand -souls. There are the ruins of several -<i>estufas</i>, of irrigation works, and of two -Christian churches. The pueblo occupies the -narrow crest of a ridge overlooking a vast, -lonely, cedar- and piñon-dotted plain that -reaches to far-off, dreamy mountain ranges. -It is in a solitude of solitudes wrapped in -the silence of death, and as almost everywhere -in the plateau region of northern -New Mexico and Arizona, one has the feeling -of being alone on the roof of the world, -<span class="pb" id="Page_59">59</span> -though the elevation here is really but 6800 -feet. The most conspicuous feature of this -shattered town is the larger of the two -churches whose gaunt, gray, roofless walls -of flat limestone pieces laid in mortar and -rising to a height of 30 feet, are visible to -the traveler long before he reaches the place. -Seen “from the northeast, through vistas of -cedars and junipers,” to quote Bandelier, -“the ruins shine in pallid light like some -phantom city of the desert.” Adjoining -the church, are the ruins of a <i>convento</i> of -several small rooms and a refectory, built -about an interior courtyard. The whole -has an unfinished appearance, and Bandelier -believed that work on the building was -suddenly interrupted and never resumed.</p> -<p>Indeed, the whole place is shrouded in -mystery—its beginning and its end are alike -in the twilight. No record has been left by -the old chroniclers of any mission called -Gran Quivira; but there is frequent mention -by them of Tabirá, whose location -fairly corresponds to this. That was a town -of the Piro Pueblos, where an important -Mission was established about 1630 by Padre -<span class="pb" id="Page_60">60</span> -Francisco de Acevedo. It ceased to be heard -of after half a century, and it is believed -that repeated raids of the barbarous Apaches—the -red terror of the peacable Pueblos—caused -the abandonment of the village. In -all human probability that Tabirá is this -Gran Quivira, but how the latter name became -attached to these ruins has never been -satisfactorily explained; for, as has already -been stated, Quivira was Coronado’s name -for the country of the Wichitas, far away -in Kansas. The Piro people, who are believed -to have inhabitated this pueblo (and -that of Abó, of which something shortly), -are about as extinct as their towns. Only -an insignificant remnant, and these speaking -an alien tongue, exist today, in the -Mexican State of Chihuahua.</p> -<p>The hill which the Gran Quivira ruins -occupy is of limestone, and underlaid, as -limestone hills often are, with hollownesses -that give back in places an audible echo to -one’s footfalls. Popular fancy has been -caught by these givings-off of the underworld, -and all sorts of fables have attached -themselves to this desolate place. These have -<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span> -mostly to do with buried treasure. It has -been thought, for instance, that here in the -caverns of this hill is really the store of -gold and jewels, the hope of which, like a -will-of-the-wisp, lured Coronado on and -ever on, to disappointment and a broken -heart. Another tradition (quoted by Mr. -Paul A. F. Walter, in “The Cities That -Died of Fear”<a class="fn" id="fr_25" href="#fn_25">[25]</a>) tells of a hidden cave in -the hill where the last Piros are said to -have retreated with their belongings, including -vast treasure brought from Mexico -by the Franciscan Fathers,<a class="fn" id="fr_26" href="#fn_26">[26]</a> and that an -earthquake sealed them and their treasure -up together. Of course, such stories have -brought hither innumerable treasure seekers, -who for years have gophered the hill industriously -but have got nothing but sore -muscles, arrowheads, and broken pottery. -The most picturesque of these delvers was -<span class="pb" id="Page_62">62</span> -a blind woman, a Mrs. Clara Corbyn, who -acquired homestead rights on the north end -of Gran Quivira. Lacking the wherewithal to -finance excavations, she traveled the country -over from the Pacific to the Atlantic, endeavoring -to procure money backing for her -scheme, and to that end even wrote a musical -romance, which she called “La Gran Quivira.” -Failing, she died not long ago in -Los Angeles—of a broken heart, it is said—and -the Museum of New Mexico eventually -secured her homestead interest.<a class="fn" id="fr_27" href="#fn_27">[27]</a> The -major portion of these ruins belongs to the -United States, forming the Gran Quivira -National Monument.</p> -<p>Abó, that other dead pueblo of the Piros, -is about 12 miles southwest of Mountainair, -or 4 miles west of Abó station on the Santa -Fe Railway. Gran Quivira you see on its -hilltop for miles before you reach it, but of -Abó your first view comes with the shock of -an unexpected delight. Your car climbs a -hill through a bit of wooded wilderness, and, -the crest attained, there flashes on your -sight from below, an exquisite little sunlit -<span class="pb" id="Page_63">63</span> -valley. In the midst of it is a hillock, and -on and about this is scattered the desolated, -roofless pueblo with its noble church, ruined -too, of San Gregorio de Abó. A thread of -living water—the Arroyo de Abó—cuts its -way through the valley which is bounded -on the west by the lovely chain of the -Manzanos. Unfortunately, the ruin of the -old church still goes on—the decay hastened, -I believe, by the fact that latter-day settlers -have borne off much of its stone and timber -for their private use. As it now stands, the -high, jagged walls of the building resemble -as much as anything a gigantic broken -tooth, and standing in this solitary place are -picturesque to a degree. The material is -red sandstone and the edifice dates from -about 1630—the founder being the same -Padre de Acevedo that is credited with establishing -Gran Quivira. He died here at -Abó, and was buried in the church on -August 1, 1644. This pueblo, like Gran -Quivira, is believed to have been abandoned -because of Apache raids, and was extinct -before the great rebellion of 1680.<a class="fn" id="fr_28" href="#fn_28">[28]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_64">64</div> -<p>A few miles from the old pueblo, and -close to the railway line there are some -low cliffs, forming one side of a gorge once -called <i>El Cañon de la Pintada</i>, or the Painted -Rocks of Abó Cañon. This spot is a sort -of aboriginal picture gallery worth a visit by -the curious in such matters. The sheltered -places on the cliff-face are adorned for a -considerable distance with drawings of -evident antiquity in various colors—yellow, -green, red, white. They are mostly representative -of human figures, one or two apparently -of the clowns who play prankish -parts in many of the present-day Pueblo -ceremonies. Others are symbols that still -survive in the religious rites of the -Pueblos.</p> -<p>Eight miles northwest of Mountainair -(and a little more due north of Abó) is -Quaraí, another forsaken pueblo, the ruins -of whose fine old Mission church may be -seen a mile away. My own first view of it -was dramatic enough, the red, sandstone -walls 20 feet high or more, gaunt and jagged, -<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span> -silhouetted sharply against a sky black -with storm clouds whence rain banners wavered -downward, and athwart them now -and then forked lightnings shot and spit. -Quaraí was a walled town, and some excavation -work, done recently by the Santa Fe -archaeologists, has brought to light among -other things the remains of a round community -building resembling the Tyuonyi in -the Cañon Rito de los Frijoles.<a class="fn" id="fr_29" href="#fn_29">[29]</a> Close at -hand is a cottonwood grove refreshed by -an abundant spring, a favorite picnic ground -for the country folk roundabout. Other -ruins in the vicinity and signs of ancient -fields here and there indicate that Quaraí -was a place of importance in its day, and -doubtless for a long time before the Spanish -occupation. Its church is believed to -have been built about 1628 and was dedicated -to La Inmaculada Concepcion. This -was the Mission of that Padre de la Llana -whose remains, after much travel, are now -at rest beneath the altar in the Cathedral at -Santa Fe.</p> -<p>About 7 miles northward from Quaraí, -<span class="pb" id="Page_66">66</span> -nestling at the foot of Manzano Peak,<a class="fn" id="fr_30" href="#fn_30">[30]</a> is -an excellent example of the old-fashioned -plaza village, called Manzano, which is -Spanish for apple tree. The reason for the -name is the presence there of a couple of -ancient apple orchards, which are believed -to date back to the time of the Franciscan -Missions, and doubtless were set out by the -Fathers of Quaraí, some 250 years ago. -The village is of the typical adobe architecture -of New Mexico, and though not so -old as it looks, having been settled about -1825, it is very foreign of aspect. With its -plaza, its old-fashioned flowers in the gardens, -its houses massed one above another -on the side of a hill that is topped by a -great wooden cross, its murmurous <i>acéquia</i>, -and its fine old Spanish <i>torreon</i> or tower -of defense, Manzano holds features of picturesqueness -enough to be worth a trip in -itself. A unique feature of the place is the -Manzano Lake which occupies a depression -in the midst of the village—a charming sheet -of water, beautiful and fragrant in season -with water lilies. The source of the Lake -<span class="pb" id="Page_67">67</span> -is a magnificent spring hardby. To reach -it, one climbs the hillside a quarter-mile or -so, and then descends into a shaded hollow, -where the cool water gushes up into a colossal -bowl, and brimming over quickly sinks -into the ground to re-appear below and form -the village lake. The spring is locally -known as <i>El Ojo del Gigante</i>—the Giant’s -Eye—and is famed throughout the State -as a very marvel among springs.</p> -<p>If one have time and inclination, the -Estancia Valley, its lakes and ruins and -Mexican villages may be made the objective -of a trip by automobile from Santa Fe or -Albuquerque. The roads in good weather -are fair, as unimproved roads go, and in -the mountain part pass through a wooded -region of much loveliness—sunny park-like -forests of pine and oak, with numerous -rivulets and charming wild gardens. From -Albuquerque to Mountainair by this route -is about 75 miles.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_68">68</div> -<h2 id="c5">CHAPTER V -<br /><span class="small">OF ACOMA, CITY OF THE MARVELLOUS ROCK, AND LAGUNA</span></h2> -<p>The oldest occupied town in the United -States, and in point of situation perhaps the -most poetic, is Acoma (<i>ah´co-ma</i>), occupying -the flat summit of a huge rock mass -whose perpendicular sides rise 350 feet out -of a solitary New Mexican plain.<a class="fn" id="fr_31" href="#fn_31">[31]</a> It is -situated 15 miles southwest of the Santa -Fe Railway station of Laguna, where modest -accommodations are provided for travelers -who stop over. The inhabitants of -Acoma, numbering about 700, are Pueblo -Indians, whose ancestors founded this rockborne -town before the white history of the -Southwest began. Coronado found it here -in 1540. <i>El Peñol Maravilloso</i>—the Rock -<span class="pb" id="Page_69">69</span> -Marvellous—the old chroniclers called it. -“A city the strangest and strongest,” says -Padre Benavides, writing of it in 1630, “that -there can be in the world.”</p> -<p>They will take you from Laguna to -Acoma in an automobile over a road, little -better than a trail, whose traversability depends -more or less on weather conditions -not only that day, but the day before.<a class="fn" id="fr_32" href="#fn_32">[32]</a> It -winds through a characteristic bit of central -New Mexico landscape, breezy, sunlit and -long-vistaed, treeless save for scattering -piñon and juniper. Wild flowers bespangle -the ground in season; and mountains—red, -purple, amethystine, weather-worn into a -hundred fantastic shapes—rise to view on -every hand. In July and August the afternoon -sky customarily becomes massed with -cloud clusters, and local showers descend -in long, wavering bands of darkness—here -one, there another. Traveling yourself in -<span class="pb" id="Page_70">70</span> -sunshine beneath an island of clear turquoise -in such a stormy sky, you may count -at one time eight or ten of these picturesque -streamers of rain on the horizon circle. -Jagged lightnings play in one quarter of the -heavens while broken rainbows illumine -others. Nowhere else in our country is the -sky so very much alive as in New Mexico -and Arizona in summer. Nowhere else, I -think, as in this land of fantastic rock -forms, of deep blue skies, and of wide, -golden, sunlit plains, do you feel so much -like an enchanted traveler in a Maxfield -Parrish picture.</p> -<p>Though the cliffs of Acoma are visible -for several miles before you reach the Rock, -you are almost at its base before you distinguish -any sign of the village—the color -of its terraced houses being much the same -as that of the mesa upon which they are -set. The soft rocky faces have been cut -into grotesque shapes by the sand of the -plain which the winds of ages have been -picking up and hurling against them. There -are strange helmeted columns, slender minarets -and spires that some day perhaps a -<span class="pb" id="Page_71">71</span> -tempest will snap in two, dark, cool caverns -which your fancy pictures as dens of those -ogreish divinities you have read of Indians’ -believing in.</p> -<p>Your first adventure at Acoma—and it is -a joyous one—is climbing the Rock to the -village on top. There are several trails. -One is broad and easy, whereby the Pueblo -flocks come up from the plains to be folded -for the night, and men ahorseback travel. -Shorter is the one your Indian guide will -take you, by a gradual sandy ascent, to the -base of the cliff. There you are face to -face with a crevice up which you ascend -by an all but perpendicular aboriginal stairway -of stone blocks and boulders piled -upward in the crack. Handholes cut in the -rock wall support you over ticklish places, -until finally you clamber out upon the flat -summit. In Coronado’s time you would -have been confronted there by a wall of -loose stones which the Acomas had built to -roll down on the heads of the unwelcome. -Today, instead, the visitor is apt to be -greeted by an official of the pueblo exacting -a head-tax of a dollar for the privilege of -<span class="pb" id="Page_72">72</span> -seeing the town, and picture-taking extra!</p> -<p>I think this precipitous trail is the one -known as <i>El Camino del Padre</i> (the Father’s -Way), which is associated with a pretty -bit of history. The first permanent Christian -missionary at Acoma was the Franciscan -Juan Ramirez. Now the Acomas had -never been friendly to the Spaniards, and -it was only after a three days’ hard battle -in 1599, resulting in the capture and burning -of the town by the Spaniards, that the -Indians accepted vassalage to that inexplicable -king beyond the sea.<a class="fn" id="fr_33" href="#fn_33">[33]</a> Naturally, no -friendly feeling was engendered by this -episode; so when this Padre Ramirez, years -afterward, was seen approaching the Rock -one day—it was in 1629—quite alone and -unarmed save with cross and breviary (having -walked all the way from Santa Fe, a -matter of 175 miles) the Acomas decided -to make short work of him. The unsuspecting -father started briskly up the rocky -stairway, and when he came within easy -range, the watching Indians shot their arrows -at him. Then a remarkable thing happened. -A little girl, one of a group looking -over the edge of the precipice, lost her -balance and fell out of sight apparently to -her death. A few minutes later, the undaunted -padre whom the shelter of the -cliff had saved from the arrows, appeared -at the head of the trail holding in his -arms the little child smiling and quite unharmed. -Unseen by the Indians, she had -lit on a shelving bit of rock from which -the priest had tenderly lifted her. So -obvious a miracle completely changed the -Indians’ feelings towards the long-gowned -stranger, and he remained for many years, -teaching his dusky wards Spanish and so -much of Christian doctrine as they would -assimilate. It was this Fray Juan Ramirez, -it is said, who had built the animal trail -which has been mentioned.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/pic002.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="434" /> -<p class="caption">AN ACOMA INDIAN DANCE</p> -<p class="caption">The dances of the Pueblo Indians are not social diversions but serious religious -ceremonies.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/pic003.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="456" /> -<p class="caption">LAGUNA, THE MOTHER PUEBLO OF SEVEN</p> -<p class="caption">This pueblo, languishing while neighboring Acoma flourished, borrowed the latter’s picture of -St. Joseph to change her fortune, prospered accordingly, and then refused to return the picture, -thus precipitating a lawsuit unique in our annals.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_73">73</div> -<p>Most visitors spend a couple of hours at -Acoma, and return the same day to the railroad. -This, at a pinch, suffices for a ramble -about the streets, and for looking into doorways -for glimpses of the primitive family -<span class="pb" id="Page_74">74</span> -life, chaffering with the women for the -pretty pottery for which Acoma is famed,<a class="fn" id="fr_34" href="#fn_34">[34]</a> -and for a visit to the natural rock cisterns -whence girls are continually coming with -dripping ollas balanced on their heads. And -of course, there is the old adobe church -with its balconied <i>convento</i>, to be seen. It -dates from about 1700. As the Rock was -bare of building material, this had all to be -brought up from below on the backs of -Indian neophytes—the timbers from the -mountains 20 miles away. The graveyard -is a remarkable piece of work founded on -the sloping rock by building retaining walls -of stone (40 feet high, at the outer end) -and filling in with sandy earth lugged patiently -up from the plain.</p> -<p>A conspicuous feature in the view from -the Rock of Acoma is a solitary mesa or -rock-table, 3 miles to the northward, which -the Acomas call Katzímo, and the Spaniards -named <i>La Mesa Encantada</i> (the Enchanted -Mesa). Its flat top is 430 perpendicular -<span class="pb" id="Page_75">75</span> -feet above the plain, and can now -be reached only with scaling ladders and -ropes. Formerly there was a single trail -up the side. The Indian tradition is that -long, long ago, before the coming of the -white invaders, the village of the Acomas -occupied the summit. One day, while all -the population except a few old people were -working in the fields below, a tempest completely -swept away the upper part of the -trail; so that the inhabitants could never -again reach their homes. They began life -over again by building a new pueblo on -the Rock of Acoma.<a class="fn" id="fr_35" href="#fn_35">[35]</a></p> -<p>The annual public fiesta of Acoma is held -September 2, the day of San Estéban Rey—that -is, of St. Stephen the King, Acoma’s -patron saint and Hungary’s. It is attended -by a picturesque crowd of Mexicans, Navajos -and Pueblos, besides a sprinkling of -Americans. Among the visitors are thrifty -Isleteños, their farm wagons loaded with -melons, grapes and peaches for sale and -barter. As on all such occasions in the Rio -<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span> -Grande pueblos, there is first a great clanging -of the church bells to get the people to -mass; after which, the saint’s statue beneath -a canopy is brought out from the church, -and all the people march in procession behind -it, the cross, and the padre, while to -the accompaniment of a solemn chant the -firing of guns and a wild clamor of discordant -church bells, the image is carried to a -booth of green boughs in the plaza, there -to rest and receive the homage of the people. -Throughout the day baskets heaped -with fruit, loaves of bread, vegetables and -candles are laid at the saint’s feet, and at -intervals the edibles are handed out to the -crowd, or tossed in the air to be scrambled -for amid much hilarity. In the afternoon -there is an Indian dance, participated in by -men and women in colorful costumes, the -women’s heads adorned with <i>tablitas</i> -(curious, painted boards set upright and -cut into shapes symbolic of clouds and what -not). A choir of men with a drum made -of a section of cottonwood log, supplies the -music, chanting in unison the ancient songs -of thanksgiving efficacious long before St. -<span class="pb" id="Page_77">77</span> -Stephen was ever heard of in Acoma, and -not to be lightly abandoned. At sundown -the saint is returned to his place in the -church, and the evening is given over to -such jollity as personal fancy dictates, -usually including a <i>baile</i>, or dance, by the -Mexicans and such white folk as stay, and it -must be confessed, too often a surreptitious -bout with John Barleycorn smuggled in by -bootleggers.</p> -<p>There are no accommodations for visitors -at Acoma, but if you have a taste for mild -adventure you will enjoy—in retrospect -anyhow—lodging a night or two with some -family in the village, if you have brought -your own provisions. This gives you a -leisurely opportunity to watch the people -at their daily tasks, and to enjoy the exquisite -outlook at evening and early morning -from the Rock. A night on an Acoma -housetop beneath the brilliant stars is like -being transported to Syria. Take it as a -rule that if you desire to learn anything -worth while of Indian life, you must abandon -hurry; and the more you pump an -Indian, the less he will tell you. The best -<span class="pb" id="Page_78">78</span> -things in the Southwest come to the waiting -traveler, not to the hustler. As to the -language, in every pueblo there is someone -who talks English enough to act as interpreter, -but if you know a little Spanish, you -may do without any intermediary in the -Rio Grande villages.</p> -<p>The natural pendant to a visit to Acoma -is one to Laguna pueblo, 2 miles from the -station of the same name.<a class="fn" id="fr_36" href="#fn_36">[36]</a> Like Acoma, it -is built upon a rock, but Laguna’s is merely -a low outcropping little above the level of -the ground. The pueblo is full of picturesque -bits, and the fall and rise of the streets -continually give you skyey silhouettes, the -delight of artists who like liberal foregrounds. -The mature coloring of the houses -in time-mellowed, pearly tones, coupled with -the fact that the old trail leading from the -outskirts of the pueblo to the spring is worn -deep in the rock floor by the wear of generations -of moccasined feet, gives one the impression -<span class="pb" id="Page_79">79</span> -that Laguna is of great antiquity. -Nevertheless, it is not, having been founded -about 1697. In 1699 it received its name -San José de la Laguna—Saint Joseph of -the Lake—the appropriateness of which is -not now apparent as there is no lake there. -In those days, however, there was a lagoon -nearby, due largely to the damming of -the little River San José by beavers. English -is very generally spoken in this pueblo.</p> -<p>Some 60 years ago Laguna was the defendant -in a curious lawsuit brought against -it by Acoma. Fray Juan Ramirez—he of -the <i>Camino del Padre</i>—had put Acoma -under the patronage of Saint Joseph, spouse -of Our Lady and patron of the Church -Universal, and in the Acoma church the -saint’s picture hung for many years, a -source of local blessing as the Acomas -firmly believed. Now while Acoma prospered -Laguna had many misfortunes—crop -failures, sickness and so on; and with a -view to bettering matters Laguna asked -Acoma for the loan of Saint Joseph. This -request was granted with the understanding -that the loan should be for one month only. -<span class="pb" id="Page_80">80</span> -But alas, recreant Laguna, once in possession, -refused to give back the picture, which -was proving as “good medicine” there as -had been the case at Acoma. At last the -padre was called on to settle the dispute and -he suggested that lots be drawn for it. This -was done and the picture fell to Acoma. -The Lagunas proved poor losers, however, -and made off with the painting by force—which -enraged the Acomas to the fighting -point, and war was only averted by the -padre’s persuading them to do what a Pueblo -Indian is very loth to do, submit the -case to the white man’s courts. Lawyers -were engaged by both pueblos, and after -a hot wrangle involving an appeal to the -Supreme Court of New Mexico, the picture -was awarded to Acoma. Evidently the saint -himself approved the judgment, for tradition -has it that when the Acoma delegation -appointed to fetch the picture back were -half way to Laguna, their astonished eyes -were greeted by the sight of it reposing -under a mesquite bush. Evidently, upon -receipt of the news, it had set out of its -own accord for home!</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_81">81</div> -<p>In proof of which the traveler today -may see the painting in the old church at -Acoma.<a class="fn" id="fr_37" href="#fn_37">[37]</a></p> -<p>Laguna’s principal public fiesta is held -annually on September 18, and adds to the -usual ceremonies of the saint’s day at a -pueblo the features of a country fair, for -the Lagunas are notable agriculturists. The -Mission church interior at Laguna, by the -way, possesses features of interest in the -way of Indian decoration and ancient Spanish -paintings, particularly those of the altar -done on stretched hide. Visitors may be -accommodated in Indian houses, if they -court that experience, or at the residence -of a Protestant missionary near by. The -National Old Trails transcontinental highway -passes the pueblo.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_82">82</div> -<h2 id="c6">CHAPTER VI -<br /><span class="small">TO ZUÑI, THE CENTER OF THE EARTH, VIA GALLUP</span></h2> -<p>Gallup, New Mexico, has never made -much of a stir as a tourist center, but like -many a spot of modest pretensions, it is -deserving beyond its gettings. As an example -of the “city beautiful” it is not, in -my judgment, a success; but as a base and -a fitting-out point for some of the most -interesting parts of the Southwest, it is to -be heartily commended.<a class="fn" id="fr_38" href="#fn_38">[38]</a> Particularly is -this so now that the motor car has so largely -supplanted the horse-drawn vehicle for excursions -afield. There are comfortable hotel -accommodations and there are Harvey -meals obtainable.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/pic004.jpg" alt="" width="573" height="800" /> -<p class="caption">BEAD MAKER, ZUÑI PUEBLO</p> -<p class="caption">Necklaces of flat, round beads made from -sea shells form a common adornment of Pueblo -Indians.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/pic005.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="442" /> -<p class="caption">A STREET IN ACOMA PUEBLO</p> -<p class="caption">The ladders afford means of access to the upper stories.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_83">83</div> -<p>From Gallup (which is -on one of the main automobile routes followed by transcontinental motorists) good -trips radiate in many directions—85 miles -to Cañon de Chelly, for instance, and its -cliff dwellings amidst surpassing scenery; -75 miles to the Pueblo Bonito ruins in Chaco -Cañon; 125 miles to the Hopi country; 42 -miles to Zuñi pueblo; 75 miles to Inscription -Rock of the Conquistadores. The great -Navajo reservation with its picturesque -aboriginal life reaches almost to Gallup’s -back door, and even the Mesa Verde National -Park,<a class="fn" id="fr_39" href="#fn_39">[39]</a> -can be done from Gallup in -4 or 5 days for the round trip, if the weather -conditions are right.</p> -<p>This chapter has to do with the famous -<span class="pb" id="Page_84">84</span> -Indian pueblo of Zuñi, which lies to the -south, about 2½ hours by motor car. The -road is all sorts from a motorist’s standpoint; -so be your own best friend and take -it good-naturedly, for fussing will not mend -it. In a few minutes you are beyond sight -of houses and railroads, and in a twinkling -Time’s clock has whirled back a couple of -centuries. You pass, perhaps, a Navajo -woman astride her pony, a sheepskin or two -tied to the saddle, on her way to the trader’s -for coffee and tobacco; and then a Mexican -teamster crouching over a bit of camp-fire -where his chili and beans are stewing, his -wagon piled high with wool sacks drawn -up by the roadside. Now a solitary adobe -ranch house, or a lone trader’s log hut is -seen in a wilderness of sagey plain; and now -a flock of sheep drift into the road out of -the piñon- and cedar-scrub, a couple of -bright-eyed Navajo children shepherding in -their wake. By and by you pass another -sort of Indian on horseback, a slightly built -man with long jet-black hair lifted by the -breeze, a red <i>banda</i> encircling it—he is a -Zuñi. And then topping a low hill, you are -<span class="pb" id="Page_85">85</span> -greeted by the distant sight of a long flat-topped -mesa, creamy pink against a blue -sky. It is Towa-yálleni, Zuñi’s Mountain -of the Sacred Corn. A turn in the road, -and the great yellow plain of Zuñi spreads -out before you, the Zuñi River threading -its midst, and on its bank the old pueblo -humps itself like a huge anthill, hardly -distinguishable in color from the plain -itself.</p> -<p>Zuñi (with a population of some 1600) -is historically perhaps the most interesting -of all the Pueblo towns, for it is the present-day -representative of those Seven Cities of -Cíbola, the fable of whose wealth led to the -discovery of New Mexico in the sixteenth -century. There really were seven Zuñi villages -in Coronado’s time, all of which have -long since disappeared, though sites of at -least five are known. The present Zuñi -pueblo seems to have been built about the -year 1700, replacing that one of the ancient -seven known as Hálona. This occupied the -opposite or south bank of the river in -Coronado’s time—a spot now partially covered -by the buildings of a white trader.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_86">86</div> -<p>If you are going to hold your car and -return to Gallup the same day, there will -probably be 3 or 4 hours available for a -stroll about the pueblo. The houses, of a -characteristic reddish tone, rise from one-storied -structures on the outskirts to 5 -stories at the center of the town, and you -will enjoy mounting by ladders and stepping -stones to that uppermost height for -the lovely view over the plain to the mountains -that hem in the Zuñi valley. The -narrow streets without sidewalks open out -now and then into small plazas, and some -communicate with one another by tunnels. -Beehive ovens squat upon the roofs in dome-like -fashion and contribute a suggestion of -the Orient—of Cairo or Syria. Dogs, -turkeys, pigs and burros have equal right -with humanity in the cramped thoroughfares, -and if one is of a cleanly habit, one -needs to watch one’s steps. But dirt and -picturesqueness were ever comrades, and -Zuñi is truly picturesque. From the open -door issues the hum of the busy mealing -stones, and the fragrance of the crushed -<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span> -corn; perhaps, too, to your ravished ears, -the high-keyed melody of grinding songs -shrilled by the women as they work.</p> -<p>Look in, and if your manner is respectful -and the girls not over shy, you will be -allowed the enjoyment of a charming picture -of kneeling, swaying bodies and of -down-turned faces veiled in falling hair. -Ollas of native ware stand about with -water; parti-colored blankets of Navajo or -Zuñi weave hanging from wall or ceiling -give a touch of brightness in the dim light -of the room; in the triangular corner fireplace -dinner simmers within a bowl of native -pottery set upon the coals. If fortune -favors you there may be a potter at her -moulding, or, in the street, jars being fired -or bread being put to bake in the adobe -ovens; or in some plaza a ceremonial dance -in costume may be in progress. Zuñi is -still comfortably pagan—the ancient Catholic -church is a ruin and the modern Protestant -mission is by no means overworked—and -throughout the year the red gods of -Zuñi have homage paid them in many a -<span class="pb" id="Page_88">88</span> -ceremony rich in symbolism and pure -beauty.<a class="fn" id="fr_40" href="#fn_40">[40]</a></p> -<p>On the outskirts of the pueblo in August, -one may have a sight of wheat thrashing on -the open-air thrashing floors, the grain being -trodden out in oriental fashion by -horses, sheep or goats. Or there may be a -straight-away horse race over the plain with -a picturesque crowd looking on; or a <i>gallo</i> -race, the part of the rooster (<i>gallo</i>) humanely -taken in these latter days by a sack -buried to the neck in the sand. A quieter -feature of interest is the quaint little vegetable -gardens on a slope by the river—each -tiny garden enclosed with a thin adobe -wall. These are tended by the women who -daily bring water in ollas and pails to irrigate -the plants.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/pic006.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="467" /> -<p class="caption">OLD CHURCH, ACOMA PUEBLO</p> -<p class="caption">Dating from about 1700. Tradition has it that it was 40 years in building. All -material was carried up on Indians’ backs from the plain 350 feet below, by an almost -precipitous trail.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/pic007.jpg" alt="" width="475" height="801" /> -<p class="caption">A SUNNY WALL IN ZUÑI</p> -<p class="caption">The men of Zuñi are famous knitters. This one is making -his wife a pair of leggings.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_89">89</div> -<p>A short walk from the pueblo brings you -to Hepatina (<i>hay´-pa-tee-na</i>) a stone shrine -erected on the plain, which in the Zuñi conception, -marks the center of the earth; for -the unreconstructed Zuñi believes naturally -enough, just as your and my ancestors did -a few centuries ago, that the earth is flat. -Hither in the days of long ago, a guardian -divinity of the Zuñis brought them as to -the safest place in the world—the farthest -from the edge—preceding them in the form -of a water strider. The double-barred cross, -which you will see sometimes on Zuñi pottery, -or fashioned in silver, is the symbol -of that divine guide. There has been, by -the way, some good pottery made at Zuñi, -and the visitor interested in that art may -still enjoy the adventure of a house-to-house -ceramic hunt with chances of a pleasurable -outcome.</p> -<p>The accommodations for visitors in the -pueblo are very limited. Perhaps one of the -couple of white resident traders or the -school teacher may be complaisant enough -to take you in; and there are certain Indian -houses where lodging can surely be had. If -you are not of a meticulous sort, I would -recommend a stop-over long enough at -least to visit the mesa Towa-yálleni, which -<span class="pb" id="Page_90">90</span> -Cushing has put into literature as Thunder -Mountain. It looks near the pueblo, but -is really 4 miles distant. On its summit -centuries ago there was a pueblo of the -Zuñis, the broken down walls of which, -overrun with cactus and brush, are still -quite evident. Curious pictographs of the -ancients may be traced on many a rock; and -if one knows where to look, there are pagan -shrines where prayer plumes are yet offered -to the Divine Ones. Among such are those -of the Twin War Gods, whose home is believed -to have been on Towa-yálleni—“little -fellows that never give up.” I was once informed -by a Zuñi, “gone away now -may be gone up, may be gone down; <i>quien -sabe</i>?”<a class="fn" id="fr_41" href="#fn_41">[41]</a> -It was on this mountain the Zuñis -found a refuge after their losing fight with -Coronado in 1540; and again in 1632 they -retreated hither after killing their missionary, -Padre Letrado, of whom we shall hear again -at Inscription Rock in the next chapter. -And here they were in 1692 when -De Vargas forced their surrender in the re-conquest. -<span class="pb" id="Page_91">91</span> -Tradition has it, too, that here -long, long ago, the people fled for safety -when an offended deity flooded them out -of their villages in the plain; and the water -still rising, a desperate sacrifice was called -for. A boy and a girl were tossed from -the summit into the angry flood. In a twinkling, -the children were transformed into pinnacles of -rock and the waters sank appeased. -You can see these spires of -stone today from Zuñi, and old people will -tell you that the one with a double point is the boy. -A peculiar virtue resides in that -petrified humanity it seems. If a childless -couple resort to the base of the pinnacles and -there plant prayer plumes, there will be granted to -them the children of their desire.</p> -<p>There are trails, steep and rough, up -Towa-yálleni’s sides, and if you can make -the trip with an intelligent and communicative old -Zuñi (most of the young ones seem to know -or care little about the ancient things), you will -have a remarkable outing. -An hour or two spent on that lonely breeze-swept, -sun-kissed mesa-top, with the ruined -<span class="pb" id="Page_92">92</span> -town, its broken shrines, its historic and -legendary memories, will induct you, as no -amount of reading will, into the atmosphere -of the Southwest’s romantic past. There -used to be—and for all I know still is—a -trail that a rider on horseback can follow, -at the northeastern side of the mesa. The -ancient peach orchard through which it -wound owes its existence to seed brought -to Zuñi by the Spaniards.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>NOTE: Five miles northeast of Zuñi, is Black -Rock, where travelers with an interest in Government -education of the Indians may see a -Reservation School in operation. Within a radius -of 15 or 20 miles of the main pueblo are 3 farming -villages occupied in summer by Zuñis to be -near certain tracts of tillable land. One of these, -Ojo Caliente, 15 miles southwest of Zuñi, is -close to the site of ancient Háwikuh—the first -Pueblo town seen by white men. Upon it in 1539, -intrepid Fray Marcos de Niza looked down from -a nearby height, and then, warned by the murder -of his avant-courier, the negro Estévanico, beat -a prudent retreat to Mexico. Coronado captured -the place in the following year, and thence made -his first report of the famous 7 cities to the viceroy -in Mexico. It is the scene of one of the -most charming of Cushing’s Zuñi folk tales, “The -Foster Child of the Deer.” Extensive excavations -have recently been made there by Government -ethnologists.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_93">93</div> -<h2 id="c7">CHAPTER VII -<br /><span class="small">EL MORRO, THE AUTOGRAPH ROCK OF THE CONQUISTADORES</span></h2> -<p>Thirty-five miles eastward from Zuñi (2 -hours by automobile, if the roads are dry) -is a huge rock mass of pale pink sandstone -whose sides rise sheer a couple of hundred -feet against a turquoise sky. It stands in -the midst of a lonely plain whose wild -grasses are nibbled by the passing flocks of -wandering Navajos, and so far as I know, -there is no nearer human habitation than -the little Mormon settlement of Ramah, -through which you pass to reach the rock. -This cliff has a story to tell of such unique -interest that the United States Government -has acquired the mesa of which it is a spur -for a National Monument. It is known as -Inscription Rock, or El Morro (the latter -a not uncommon Spanish-American designation -for a bold promontory), and was a -<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span> -landmark as early as the sixteenth century -for the Spanish expeditions bound between -Santa Fe, Acoma and Zuñi. Water, feed, -and wood were here available, as they are -today, making the foot of the high cliff a -good camping place, and here as a matter -of fact during the sixteenth, seventeenth, -and eighteenth centuries, many a Spanish -military party did camp, and having rested -themselves and their cattle, went on refreshed -to do the errands of their King -and Church.</p> -<p>And hither one day in 1849, just after -New Mexico had become part of the United -States, came Lieut. J. H. Simpson, U. S. A., -with some troopers on a military reconnaissance, -and discovered that the base of the -cliff was a veritable album of those old -Conquistadores; bearing not only the names -of the Spanish explorers but frequently an -accompaniment of date and comment that -form important contributory evidence -touching the early history of the Southwest. -Simpson made copies of a number of the -inscriptions, and these were published with -translations (not always accurate) in his -<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span> -report to the Secretary of War.<a class="fn" id="fr_42" href="#fn_42">[42]</a> Most of -those recordings carved in the soft rock -with sword or dagger point are still fresh -and legible, so little have centuries of dry -New Mexico weather worn the clear-cut -lettering. If you go to see them, you will -be a dry-as-dust indeed if you do not feel -an odd sort of thrill as you put your finger -tips upon the chiseled autographs of the -men who won for Spain an empire and held -it dauntlessly. For most of these records -are not idle scribblings of the witless, but -careful work by people with a purpose, -whose names are mentioned in the documents -of the time. Here are the names, -for instance, of Oñate, the conqueror, and -of De Vargas, the re-conqueror, the very -flower of the warrior brotherhood. The -Rock is a monument such as has no duplicate -in the country; and some day when -our historians have got the Southwest in -<span class="pb" id="Page_96">96</span> -proper perspective, and waked up to a realization -of the heroism and romance that -went into the making of it, El Morro will -perhaps be really protected (if its priceless -inscriptions survive so long) and not left -as it is now to vandal tourists to hack and -carve their silly names upon.</p> -<p>It takes knowledge of old Spanish abbreviations -to get at the sense of many of the -records, but even the casual visitor cannot -but be struck by the artistry that characterizes -many of the petrographs. One who -has Spanish enough to give zest to the quest -could easily spend a couple of days, camped -at this fascinating spot, spelling out the -quaint old notations, peopling again in fancy -this ancient camp-ground with the warriors -of long ago in helmet and cuirass, their -horses housed in leather; and ever with -them the Franciscan soldiers of the Cross -in gray gown and cord with dangling crucifix. -Then there is the enjoyment of the -place itself—the sunny solitude, and the -glorious, extended views, the long blue line -of the Zuñi Mountains, the pale spires of -La Puerta de los Gigantes (the Giants’ -<span class="pb" id="Page_97">97</span> -Gate). Then, if you like, is the climb to -the mesa’s summit for yet wider views, -and a sight of the ruined old pueblo there, -whereof history has naught to tell—only -tradition, which says that it was once a -Zuñian town.</p> -<p>There is some doubt as to the earliest -inscription on the Rock. One questionable -writing, unsigned, appears to be 1580. Next -in point of antiquity is the undoubted record -of Oñate, cut across an earlier Indian petrograph, -and reads <i>literatim</i>: “Paso por aqi -el adelantado don jua de oñate del descubrimiento -de la mar del sur a 16 del abril -del 1606.” (That is: Passed by here the -provincial chief Don Juan de Oñate from -the discovery of the South Sea on 16th of -April, 1606.) The discovery he records as -of the South Sea (i.e., Pacific Ocean) was -really of the Gulf of California, for Oñate -doubtless believed as most of the world did -in his day that California was an island. -Oddly enough, though, he made a mistake -in the date, which documentary evidence -proves to have been 1605 not 1606.</p> -<p>The inscription of De Vargas, the reconqueror, -<span class="pb" id="Page_98">98</span> -following the Pueblo rebellion -of 1680, reads: “Aqui estaba el Genl Dn. -Do de Vargas quien conquisto a nuestra -santa fe y la real corona todo el nuevo -Mexico a su costa año de 1692.” (Here -was the General Don Diego de Vargas who -conquered to our holy faith and the royal -crown all New Mexico, at his own expense, -year of 1692.)</p> -<p>Records of especial interest, too, are two -of 1629, telling of the passing by of Governor -Silva Nieto. One is in rhymed verse<a class="fn" id="fr_43" href="#fn_43">[43]</a> -and refers to Nieto as the “bearer of the -Faith to Zuñi;” that is, he had acted as -escort of the first Christian missionaries to -pagan Zuñi. A tragic sequel to that inscription -is a short one that is so abbreviated -that scholars have had a hard tussle with it. -The puzzle has been solved, however. You -<span class="pb" id="Page_99">99</span> -will know this petroglyph by the signature -Lujan, a soldier, and the date 1632; and it -reads, Englished: “They passed on 23 -March 1632 to the avenging of Padre Letrado’s -death.” Zuñi did not take kindly to its -missionaries and killed them periodically. -This Padre Letrado was one of the martyrs—shot -to death as he preached, holding -out his crucifix to his murderers.<a class="fn" id="fr_44" href="#fn_44">[44]</a></p> -<p>In delicate, almost feminine, characters is -a modest inscription that reads, translated: -“I am from the hand of Felipe de Avellano, -16 September, soldier.” There is something -touching, I think, about that personified -periphrase, and I am glad that, in spite of -the omission of the year, historians have -identified the writer. He was a common -soldier of the garrison at Zuñi after the reconquest, -and met death there in 1700.</p> -<p>It is unfortunate that this noble and -unique monument should be left exposed -<span class="pb" id="Page_100">100</span> -as it is to vandals. Almost every white -visitor thinks it is his duty to scratch his -name up alongside the historic ones and -there is no guardian to forbid—only an -unregarded sign of the Department of the -Interior tacked on a nearby tree. A year -ago the Department, in response to private -representation, promised to put up a fence -of protection, and perhaps this has been -done; but a fence is a perfectly inadequate -measure. If the East possessed one such -autograph in stone (of Joliet, or La Salle, -or Cartier), as El Morro bears by the half -dozen, I wonder if the few hundred a year -necessary to support a local guardian would -not be forthcoming? When will our nation -take seriously the colonial history of the -Southwest as just as much its own as that -of the Atlantic side of the Continental -Divide?</p> -<p>At the shortest, it is a matter of two days -to achieve a visit to El Morro from the -railway. Gallup is the best stop-off. There -an automobile may be hired, and the night -spent at Ramah, where accommodations may -be had at the trader’s unless you prefer to -<span class="pb" id="Page_101">101</span> -camp at the Rock itself, which, if you like -such adventure and are prepared, is a joyous -thing to do.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_102">102</div> -<h2 id="c8">CHAPTER VIII -<br /><span class="small">THE STORIED LAND OF THE NAVAJO</span></h2> -<p>The Navajos are the Bedouins of our -Southwest, and there are about 22,000 of -them—a fine, independent tribe of Indians -occupying a semi-desert, mountainous reservation -in northwestern New Mexico, northeastern -Arizona and a small corner of -Utah. Indeed they occupy somewhat more, -for they are confirmed rovers and are frequently -found setting up their <i>hogans</i>, shepherding -their sheep, and weaving their -blankets, well across their government-fixed -borders. One is sure to see some of them -in Gallup, where they come to trade—the -men generally in dark velveteen shirts worn -loose outside the trousers, their long, black, -uncut hair filleted about with red <i>bandas</i> -and caught up behind in a club or knot. -Both men and women are expert riders, sitting -their ponies as firmly as centaurs; and -<span class="pb" id="Page_103">103</span> -both are extravagantly fond of silver jewelry, -of which they often wear small fortunes -in necklaces, belts, bracelets, rings and -buttons hammered by their own silversmiths -from coin of Mexico. If you see them -wearing blankets, as you will when the -weather requires it, these will be the gaudy -products of Yankee looms, which they buy -for less than the price they receive for their -own famous weave. So, thrifty traders -that they are, they let the white folk have -the latter and content themselves with the -cheaper machine-made article bought from -an American merchant.</p> -<p>It is part of the fun of a visit to the Hopi -towns that you must cross a section of the -Navajo Reservation and thus get a glimpse -of life in the latter; but there is a special -trip which I would like to recommend from -Gallup as a starting point, that brings one -more intimately into touch with the tribe. -That is to Chin Lee and the Cañon de -Chelly,<a class="fn" id="fr_45" href="#fn_45">[45]</a> about 100 miles northwest of -<span class="pb" id="Page_104">104</span> -Gallup. There is a choice of roads, so that -the going and returning may be by different -routes. The trip may be done by time -economists in an automobile in two or three -days, but a more enjoyable plan for easy-going -folk is to take eight or ten days to it -by horseback or wagon, camping by the -way. And do it preferably in September or -early October, for then the mid-year rains -are usually over, the air clear and sparkling, -and feed for horses sufficiently abundant. -The elements that enter into the landscape -are primarily those that go to the making -of the grandeur of the Grand Cañon region, -but scattered and distant, not concentrated. -There is a similar sculpturing of the land -into pinnacles and terraces, cones perfect -or truncated, battlemented castles and airy -spires, appearing, when afar, mistily in an -atmosphere of amethyst and mauve and indefinite -tones of yellow and pink. Now -the road threads open, sunny forests of pine -and oak, the latter in autumnal dress of -crimson and gold and surprising you with -acorns as sweet as chinquapins. Again, it -traverses broad, unwatered, semi-desert -<span class="pb" id="Page_105">105</span> -plains dotted with fragrant sage-brush and -riotous sunflowers, the only animated things -in sight being prairie dogs and jackrabbits, -or an occasional band of Navajo ponies. As -the morning advances, cumulus clouds rise -in stately squadrons above the horizon and -move across the sky dropping drifting -shadows; at noon over a fire of sage stumps -you heat up your beans and brew your coffee -in the grateful shade of your wagon; -night finds you at some hospitable trader’s -post, or enjoying your blankets at the sign -of <i>La belle étoile</i>. Only at long intervals -will you come upon sign of human life. -At Fort Defiance, 30 miles north of Gallup, -is a Government Reservation school for the -Navajos, and a mile from it an Episcopal -medical mission—a living monument to the -loving interest of Miss Eliza Thackara in -these Indians. Eight miles south of Fort -Defiance is the Franciscan Mission of St. -Michael’s to the Navajo, where, if you are -interested, the hospitable Brothers can show -you what sort of a job it is to transform -an ungroomed savage into Christian semblance. -At Ganado, Arizona, 45 miles from -<span class="pb" id="Page_106">106</span> -Gallup, is the trading post of Mr. J. L. -Hubbell, whose name for a generation has -in that part of the world been a synonym -for hospitality.<a class="fn" id="fr_46" href="#fn_46">[46]</a></p> -<p>Nevertheless, there is more life than you -see, for the native <i>hogan</i>, or one-roomed -dwelling of logs covered with earth, is so -inconspicuous that you may pass within a -few rods of one and never detect it. The -Navajos do not congregate in villages but -each family wants a lot—miles, indeed—of -elbow room.</p> -<p>Chin Lee, mentioned above, is not Chinese -as it sounds, but the Navajo name of a spacious -valley into which Cañon de Chelly -debouches. If you have a taste for mythology, -it will interest you to know that -here, according to tradition, Estsán-atlehi -(the chief goddess of the Navajo pantheon -and wife of the Sun-god), traveling from -the east once camped with her attendant -divinities for a great ceremony and a footrace. -She was on her way to her home in -<span class="pb" id="Page_107">107</span> -the great water of the west, where in a -floating house she still lives, and receives -her lord the Sun every evening when his -daily work is finished.<a class="fn" id="fr_47" href="#fn_47">[47]</a> There is a trading -post at Chin Lee, and beyond the broad -flat in front of it is the entrance to Cañon -de Chelly. This is a narrow, tortuous rift -in the earth, some 20 miles long, whose -perpendicular sides of red sandstone rise -800 to 1000 feet. Opening into it are two -side gorges, Monument and Del Muerto -Cañons. A shallow stream of sweet water—sometimes, -however, hidden beneath the -sands—creeps along the cañon floor, widens -in the plain into the Rio de Chelly, and -flowing northward joins the San Juan in -southern Utah. So in time does it contribute -its bit to the tawny flood that pours -through the Grand Cañon of the Colorado.<a class="fn" id="fr_48" href="#fn_48">[48]</a></p> -<p>The interests that hold the visitor in -Cañon de Chelly are several. There is, first, -the stupendous scenery. Men and animals -traversing this level floor seem pygmies at -<span class="pb" id="Page_108">108</span> -the foot of the smooth, vertical walls, carved -and stained by the master-artist Time working -through who knows how many milleniums. -The windings of the gorge keep one -in perpetual expectancy of something going -to happen just around the corner, and -create an atmosphere of mystery that is -little short of thrilling. In places the cañon -widens out in sunlit coves and wild-grass -meadows, where clustered reeds<a class="fn" id="fr_49" href="#fn_49">[49]</a> rustle and -wild flowers bloom. Quite as often, though, -the walls are so close together that the -sunshine never reaches the bottom and the -grim surroundings suggest some overwhelming -picture of Doré’s.</p> -<p>Then there are the ancient dwellings in -the cliffs—little, crumbling cities of the -dead. Perched high up in shallow cavities -of the flat wall, some are inaccessible except -by ladders; others, may be reached by -scrambling up talus slopes. One famous -one, known as Mummy Cave, in Cañon -<span class="pb" id="Page_109">109</span> -del Muerto, should by all means be visited; -but even more striking is one in the main -cañon called <i>La Casa Blanca</i> or the White -House. The upper story of this majestic -ruin, which strikingly resembles some -medieval castle, is colored white; and the -whole line of the immense edifice set high -above the earth and projected against the -dark background of a natural cavity in the -enormous cliff, makes a dramatic picture. -The effect is heightened when we learn -that in Navajo folk-lore it plays a part as -the abode of certain genii or minor divinities -who, the faithful believe, still haunt -the edifice.</p> -<p>In places the cliffs are prehistoric art -galleries, adorned with pictographs of -unheard-of birds and animals, human -hands outspread, geometrical designs, -and attenuated figures of men in various -attitudes.</p> -<p>Lastly, there is the interest of a present-day -Indian life, for the cañon is the free, -joyous home of numerous Navajo families, -that come and go as fancy dictates. -Their <i>hogans</i>, often with a hand-loom for -<span class="pb" id="Page_110">110</span> -blanket weaving<a class="fn" id="fr_50" href="#fn_50">[50]</a> swung from a nearby tree -are set inconspicuously here and there at -the base of the towering cliffs, wherever -there is a bit of land suitable for the raising -of corn, beans and melons. Peach orchards, -too, are here, from seed of Spanish introduction -centuries ago. Flocks of sheep and -goats are continually on the move up and -down the cañon, which is musical with their -bleatings and the wild melody of the shepherds’ -songs. It is a picturesque sight at -evening to see the homing bands crowding -into the primitive folds which sometimes -are a mere crevice in the rock walls with a -rude fence thrown across the opening.</p> -<p>During the wars which for many years -marked the intercourse of the Navajos -with the whites—both Spaniards and -<span class="pb" id="Page_111">111</span> -Americans—the Cañon de Chelly was a -notable stronghold of the red men. It was -here that in 1864 Kit Carson and his -troopers at last succeeded in breaking the -backbone of the Indian resistance. Today -the Navajos are as peaceable as the Pueblos.</p> -<p>According to Navajo legends, the boundaries -of their land were marked out for -them by the gods who brought them up -through the great reed from the lower -world.<a class="fn" id="fr_51" href="#fn_51">[51]</a> These landmarks were in the form -of mountains especially created for the -purpose of earth brought from the lower -world, and were seven in number. Of these -the Sacred Mountain of the East is believed -to be Pelado Peak, 20 miles northeast of -Jemes pueblo and it was made fast to the -earth by a bolt of lightning; the Sacred -Mountain of the South is known to be -Mount San Matéo, 20 miles or so northwest -of Laguna pueblo, held in place by a great -stone knife thrust through it from summit -to base; the Sacred Mountain of the West, -<span class="pb" id="Page_112">112</span> -is the San Francisco Mountain, 12 miles -north of Flagstaff, Arizona, fastened down -by a sunbeam; and the Sacred Mountain of -the North is some one of the San Juan -range, which a rainbow held in place. The -other three are peaks of the mid-region, -only one of which, Hosta Butte in Bernalillo -County, New Mexico, has been identified.<a class="fn" id="fr_52" href="#fn_52">[52]</a> -Two of these mountains are plainly -visible from the Santa Fe Railway trains -and by motorists following the National -Old Trails transcontinental highway—namely, -the San Francisco Mountain (12,611 -feet) and Mount San Matéo (11,389 feet). -Both are extinct volcanoes. The vicinity -of Mount San Matéo (which is also known -as Mount Taylor)<a class="fn" id="fr_53" href="#fn_53">[53]</a> is the scene of a thrilling -tradition. There it was that the Navajo -Gods of War (children of the Sun and of -the Waterfall), mounted upon a rainbow, -met and slew with lightning bolts the boy-eating -giant, Ye-itso. The latter was a -monster so huge that the spread of his two -feet was a day’s journey for a man, his footfalls -<span class="pb" id="Page_113">113</span> -were as thunder, and when he drank -his draught exhausted a lake. His head, -cut off by the War-gods and tossed away, -was changed into El Cabezon, a truncated -cone of a mountain visible 40 miles northeast -from San Matéo; and his blood flowing -in a deluge to the south and west -is what we white folk in our ignorance -call a hardened lava-flow, as we watch -it from the car window for miles westward -from McCarty’s. Look at it again -with the eyes of faith, and is not its -semblance that of coagulated, blackened -blood?</p> -<p>So you see in this glorious Southwest -we may still follow in the very footsteps of -the gods, and regard the world as it seems -through the eyes of a primitive and poetic -race—see in the lightning the weapon of the -red gods, in the rainbows their bridges to -traverse chasms withal, in the sunbeams -their swift cars of passage. There is something -rather exhilarating, I think, to know -that in our materialistic America there is a -region where the Ancient Ones still haunt -as in the youth of the world. To be sure -<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span> -the white man’s schools are operating to -break up this primitive faith; but the ingrained -genius of a race is not made over -in a generation. One may stumble still -upon Navajo religious ceremonies, held in -the open, with their picturesque rites and -maskings and wild music. They differ -markedly from the ceremonies of the Pueblos, -and are, as a rule, undertaken under -the charge of medicine men primarily for -the cure of the sick. There are no fixed -dates for any of these ceremonies, and casual -travelers do not often see them, as they are -most likely to be held during the cold -weather, when few visitors care to penetrate -into the country. An exceedingly interesting -adjunct of many of the Navajo rites is -the dry sand painting, of a symbolic character -and often of striking beauty, made in -color upon a prepared flooring of sand. The -design is “drawn” on this by dribbling upon -it the dry ground pigments—white, red, -yellow, black and gray—from between the -artist’s thumb and fore-finger. The picture -must be done in one day, several men sometimes -working upon it at once. When completed -<span class="pb" id="Page_115">115</span> -the sick man is placed upon it and -treated; and after that, the picture is -obliterated.<a class="fn" id="fr_54" href="#fn_54">[54]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_116">116</div> -<h2 id="c9">CHAPTER IX -<br /><span class="small">THE HOMES OF THE HOPIS, LITTLE PEOPLE OF PEACE</span></h2> -<p>Now that the automobile has become a -common mode of travel even in the desert, -you may reach the pueblos of the Hopi -Indians quite comfortably from Gallup.<a class="fn" id="fr_55" href="#fn_55">[55]</a> -The distance is about 130 miles to the first -of the villages. The road is via St. Michael’s -(where the Franciscan Brothers maintain a -Mission for the Navajos); Ganado, where -Mr. J. L. Hubbell’s trading post stands; -and Keam’s Cañon, where Mr. Lorenzo -Hubbell, hospitable son of a hospitable -father, has another trading post. As far -as Ganado (70 miles) the way is identical -with the first part of one road to the Cañon -de Chelly. From Ganado westward there -are 60 miles of pure wilderness, semi-desert, -treeless, but in summer and autumn splendid -in places with sheets of wild flowers in -purple and yellow. On every hand—sometimes -near, sometimes afar—are the characteristic -mesa formations of the Southwest -carved by the elements into curious shapes -to which the fancy readily suggests names. -One that you will pass is a strikingly good -model of a battleship’s dismantled hull, and -goes by the name of Steamboat Rock—a -pleasant conceit for this desert, which, the -geologists tell us, was once a sea bottom. -Nowhere is sign of humanity, save perhaps, -some wandering Navajos or a chance traveler -like yourself.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/pic008.jpg" alt="" width="516" height="801" /> -<p class="caption">CASA BLANCA OR WHITE HOUSE</p> -<p class="caption">A prehistoric Cliff dwelling set amidst the stupendous -scenery of the Cañon de Chelly, Arizona—the reputed -haunt of certain Navajo gods.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/pic009.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="442" /> -<p class="caption">EL MORRO OR INSCRIPTION ROCK, N. M.</p> -<p class="caption">This remarkable cliff bears near its base a score or more of autographs carved in the -stone by the Spanish conquerors during the 17th and 18th centuries.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_117">117</div> -<p>At last there comes a change over the -country ahead of you—a transfiguration to -broad sweeps of pink and pallid yellow, with -here and there a streak of white or of green, -and on the far horizon a wall of purple. -The Painted Desert is before you, and upon -the very tip of a long promontory streaked -horizontally with brown and red and yellow, -<span class="pb" id="Page_118">118</span> -and laid upon the desert like a gigantic arm -thrust out, you see the castellated sky-line -formed by the pueblos of the First Hopi -Mesa. The geography of the Hopi country -is like this: Three long, narrow mesas extending -fingerlike into the Painted Desert, -the tips about 10 miles each from the next. -On the First Mesa (which is the easternmost) -are three villages in an almost continuous -row—Hano (called also Tewa), -which you plump breathlessly into at the -top of the one steep trail which is your -means of access to all; then Sichúmovi, and -lastly, at the mesa’s extremity with all the -desert in front, is Walpi, a most picturesque -pile rising in terraces to 4 stories and suggesting -some mediaeval fortress. The Second -Mesa is forked at its tip, with Mishóngnovi -and Shipaúlovi set superbly along one -tine, and Shimópovi<a class="fn" id="fr_56" href="#fn_56">[56]</a> on the other. On the -Third Mesa stands old Oraibi, largest and -until recently most populous of all. Some -years ago, however, it suffered a secession -of fully half its population, who are now -established a few miles away on the same -<span class="pb" id="Page_119">119</span> -mesa forming the independent pueblos of -Hótavila and Bácavi.<a class="fn" id="fr_57" href="#fn_57">[57]</a></p> -<p>The situation of these little towns is magnificent -beyond words, overlooking the -Painted Desert, ever changing, ever wonderful, -ever challenging the spiritual in you, -and stretching to where the San Francisco -Peaks, the Mogollones and the White Mountains -notch the dim horizon line. The elevation -(6000 feet above the sea) and the -purity and dryness of the air, combine to -make the climate particularly healthful and -enjoyable. Winter brings frosts and some -snow, alternating with brilliant sunshine. -Summer, the season that interests the average -visitor, is as a rule delightful—the -afternoon thunder showers of July and -August being only a refreshment and a -source of added picturesqueness in the form -of superb cloud effects, spectacular lightning, -and splendid rainbows. Mid-day is -warm enough for old men to loiter in the -<span class="pb" id="Page_120">120</span> -sun in a costume that is pared down to a -breech clout and little children joyously -wear nothing at all; yet both need covering -in the shade. As for the summer nights, -they are always deliciously cool and for -outdoor sleeping are ideal. The flat-roofed, -eaveless houses are usually of flat stones laid -in mud mortar, and though terraced, do not -usually exceed two or three stories in height. -The arrangement is in streets and plazas, -the <i>kivas</i> or ceremonial chambers (corresponding -to the <i>estufas</i> of the Rio Grande -pueblos) being underground and reached -by a descending ladder, whose upper part—two -rungless poles—stick picturesquely up -in the air. There is a growing tendency to -build the new houses at the bases of the -cliffs, particularly at the First and Third -Mesas—a reversal to first principles; for -when Don Pedro de Tovar, a lieutenant of -Coronado, with Padre Juan de Padilla (of -whom we heard at Isleta) and a few soldiers, -visited in 1540 this province of Tusayan, -as they called the country, they reported -the Hopis dwelling at the foot of -the mesas. It was only later, probably after -<span class="pb" id="Page_121">121</span> -the Pueblo Rebellion of 1680, that the towns -were rebuilt upon the mesa summits where -we now find them. The sites of two former -Walpis may still be traced below the First -Mesa together with the ruins of an ancient -Franciscan Mission, some of whose timbers, -they say, form part of the existing pagan -<i>kivas</i>. The Hopi never took kindly to missionary -effort by the whites. Every <i>padre</i> -among them was murdered at the time of -the Rebellion, and they would never tolerate -another. Even kind Padre Garcés (of -whom we shall hear in a subsequent chapter) -the Oraibians kept sitting outdoors in -a street corner for two days, and then -evicted him from their town. In 1700, one -pueblo whose inhabitants showed a hospitable -feeling to the preaching of a persistent -friar, was attacked by neighboring Hopis, -set on fire and such of the inhabitants as -were not killed, were carried to other towns. -Of that pueblo—its name was Awátobi—you -may see some ruined remnants yet about -9 miles southeast of Walpi.<a class="fn" id="fr_58" href="#fn_58">[58]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_122">122</div> -<p>The attraction that draws most visitors -to the country of the Hopi Indians is the -famous Snake Dance held annually in -August. The date is a movable one and not -known positively until 9 days in advance, -when the information may be had of the -Santa Fe railway officials, who make it a -point to be posted. This remarkable ceremony, -in which live snakes, a large proportion -of them venomous rattlers, are -handled by the dance participants as nonchalantly -as if they were kittens, is in fact -a prayer for rain, in which the snakes (never -harmed or their fangs extracted as is sometimes -ignorantly supposed), are intermediaries -between the people and the gods of -water. It is moreover the dramatization -of a Hopi myth concerning the origin of -the two clans—Antelope and Snake—who -perform the ceremony. The myth has to -do with the adventures of a young man -who, impelled by curiosity to know where -the river waters went, made a trip on a hollow -<span class="pb" id="Page_123">123</span> -log down the Colorado to its mouth. -There he had many dealings with the Snake -people, in whose ways he was instructed by -the friendly Spider Woman. Finally he -married the Snake chief’s daughter, and -brought her to his own country. The first -children of this union were snakes, which -the Hopis drove away, but the next were -human, and these, the ancestors of the present -Snake Clan, came to Walpi to live. The -entire ceremony continues throughout 9 -days, and is conducted secretly in the underground -<i>kiva</i> until near sunset of the last -day. Then the priests dramatically emerge -into the upper air, and the dance with the -snakes occurs. It is all over in about half -an hour, but that half hour is what brings -the crowd—about the most thrilling and -wide-awake performance that is offered -anywhere in America. Though the Snake -Dance takes place annually, all the villages -do not hold it the same year. The most -frequented presentations are those at Walpi, -held in the odd years, as 1917, 1919, etc., -and at Oraibi, the latter in the even years, -as 1918, 1920, etc.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_124">124</div> -<p>The Snake Dance attracts largely through -the horror awakened in most of us by reptiles, -though it possesses many elements of -majestic beauty, too. There are numerous -other Hopi ceremonies whose dominant -feature to the white onlooker is simple -beauty; for instance, the picturesque Flute -ceremony held at springs below the mesas, -and then along the ascending trails to the -mesa-top accompanied by songs, the music -of native flutes and the scattering of flowers. -This ceremony, which is also the -dramatization of a legend<a class="fn" id="fr_59" href="#fn_59">[59]</a> as well as an invocation -for rain, alternates with the Snake -Dance, being held at about but not at the -identical time with it, and always at other -pueblos than those holding the Snake Dance. -This permits attenders at one to witness -the other also. Then at all the pueblos there -are the autumnal Basket Dances of the -women, and in spring and summer the many -<span class="pb" id="Page_125">125</span> -beautiful Katchina Dances. Katchinas are -the deified spirits of the Hopis’ ancestors, -and are intercessors with the greater gods -for divine favors for the Hopis. They are -supposed to reside amid the San Francisco -Peaks, where the home of the Sun god is, the -great dispenser of blessings. Their annual -visits (Indians of the pueblo impersonating -the gods) are the occasions of much merry-making, -of songs and processions, and -dances in mask and gay costumes. Each -god has his distinctive mask and dress, and -the queer little wooden “dolls” (as the -traders call them, though “Katchina” is the -better word), which the visitors find in -Hopi houses are careful representations of -these, made for the children of the household -to familiarize themselves with the -characteristic aspect of each divinity. “These -dances,” to quote Mr. Walter Hough, whose -excellent little work, “The Hopi,” should be -read by every intending visitor, “show the -cheerful Hopi at his best—a true spontaneous -child of nature. They are the most -characteristic ceremonies of the pueblos, -most musical, spectacular and pleasing. -<span class="pb" id="Page_126">126</span> -They are really more worthy of the attention -of white people than the forbidding -Snake Dance, which overshadows them by -the elements of horror.”</p> -<p>Visitors who allow themselves to be hurried -up to the Hopi towns the day before -the Snake Dance and then packed off home -the next morning, as most of them do, may -think they have had a good time, but it -is largely the bliss of ignorance. They do -not know what they have missed by not -spending a week or two. To be sure accommodations -are limited and primitive, -but one must expect to rough it more or -less in Indian country. Still the Hopis are -not savages and one can be made comfortable. -It is generally possible to rent one of -the small houses at the foot of the mesa, -if one does not bring one’s own camp outfit, -and there are traders at most of the villages -where supplies of necessaries may be -obtained. Climb the trail to the sunny, -breeze-swept mesa top; get acquainted with -the merry, well-behaved little children—easy -enough, particularly if you have a little stock -of candy; watch the women making <i>piki</i> -<span class="pb" id="Page_127">127</span> -(the thin wafer-like corn-bread of many -colors that is the Hopi staff of life), or -molding or burning pottery; see the men -marching off, huge hoes on shoulder, to cultivate -their corn and beans, sometimes miles -away, in damp spots of the desert, or coming -inward-bound driving burros laden with -firewood or products of the field. All this, -in an architectural setting that is as picturesque -as Syria, replete with entrancing “bits” -that are a harvest to the artist or the kodaker. -After a day or two you will have -had your measure pretty well taken by the -population, and granting your manners -have been decent, you will be making friends, -and every day will show you something -new in the life of this most interesting race. -Of course there is a difference in the different -towns—the customs of some have -been more modified than others by contact -with the whites and the influence of the -Government educational system. The Walpians -and their neighbors are perhaps the -most Americanized; the people of Hótavila -and Shimópovi, the least so.</p> -<p>The Hopis possess arts of great interest. -<span class="pb" id="Page_128">128</span> -Pottery of beautiful form and design is -made at Hano<a class="fn" id="fr_60" href="#fn_60">[60]</a> of the First Mesa. This -tiny village has the honor of being the home -of the most famous of Indian potters, Nampéyo, -whose work is so exquisite that it -looks distinctive in any company. Her -daughter Kwatsoa seems nearly as gifted. -Then there is basketry. Curiously enough -the East Mesa makes no baskets whatever, -and the baskets of the Middle Mesa are -quite of another sort from those of the -Third Mesa, and both so different from all -other Indian baskets whatsoever, as to be -recognized at a glance. The Third Mesa -baskets are woven wicker work usually in -the form of a tray or plaque, the design -symbolizing birds, clouds, butterflies, etc., -in glaring aniline dyes. Those of the Second -Mesa are in heavy coils sewed together -with a thread of the yucca wrapping, and -<span class="pb" id="Page_129">129</span> -in various shapes from flat to globular, the -latter sometimes provided with handles. -Weaving is an ancient Hopi art that is -now unfortunately decadent. In pre-Spanish -days and for some time afterwards, the -Hopi cultivated a native cotton,<a class="fn" id="fr_61" href="#fn_61">[61]</a> and cotton -is still woven by them into ceremonial -kilts and cord. Formerly they were famous -weavers of rabbit-skin blankets. The visitor -may still run across an occasional one in -the pueblos, but the blanket of wool has long -since displaced them. The Hopis make of -weaving a man’s business, which is usually -carried on in the <i>kivas</i> when these are not -being used for religious purposes. They -specialize in women’s <i>mantas</i>, or one-piece -dresses, of a dark color with little or no ornamentation.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_130">130</div> -<h2 id="c10">CHAPTER X -<br /><span class="small">THE PETRIFIED FOREST OF ARIZONA</span></h2> -<p>Everybody enjoys his stop off at the Petrified -Forest. For one thing, this sight is as -easy of achievement as falling off a log, and -that counts heavily with your average -American tourist. Even if your train drops -you at Adamana<a class="fn" id="fr_62" href="#fn_62">[62]</a> in the middle of the night, -as some trains do, there will be somebody -there to carry your bag and pilot you the -couple of hundred yards to the lone hotel -which, with the railroad station and the -water tank, is practically all there is of -Adamana. Then you are put comfortably -to bed in a room that awaits you. In the -morning you are given a leisurely breakfast -at your own hour, and packed in an -automobile to see one part of the Forest; -brought home to luncheon; and in the afternoon -<span class="pb" id="Page_131">131</span> -motored off to another part. If you -are an invalid or just naturally lazy, you -need not even leave your seat in the conveyance. -After that it is your choice to -proceed on your travels, or stay over another -day and visit more distant parts of the -Forest. In seeing the Forest, you incidentally -have several miles of reasonably easy driving -over the vast northern Arizona plateau -with its wide views to the edge of a world -hemmed in with many a dreamy mountain -range and long, colorful, flat-topped mesas -breaking away in terraces and steps to the -plains. You will quite possibly see coyotes -and jackrabbits and prairie dogs, cattle grazing -the wild grasses, a Navajo Indian or -two, cowboys on their loping ponies, perhaps -a round-up with its trailing chuckwagon. -You will steep yourself in the -delicious Arizona sunshine, and be humbled -before the majesty of the glorious Arizona -sky, blue as sapphire and piled high at -times with colossal masses of cumulus clouds -that forevermore will mean Arizona to you.</p> -<p>The Forest is unfortunately mis-named, -for it is not a forest. There is not a single -<span class="pb" id="Page_132">132</span> -standing trunk, such as you may see occasionally -in Utah or the Yellowstone. In -the midst of a treeless plain the broken logs -litter the ground in sections rarely over 25 -feet long, oftenest in short chunks as if -sawn apart, and in chips and splinters innumerable. -Trunk diameters of 2 or 3 feet -are common, and as high as 6 feet has been -reported. It seems likely that the trees did -not grow where they now lie but have been -washed hither in some prehistoric swirl of -waters, (as logs are carried down stream -in our latter-day puny freshets,) becoming -stranded in certain depressions of the land -where we now find them, often having had -their woody tissue gradually replaced by -silica and agatized. Whence they came nobody -knows, nor when. The guess of the -unlettered guide who shows you about, may -be as near right as the trained geologist’s, -who locates the time of their fall as the -Triassic Age, and their old home as perhaps -beside some inland sea; but whether that -was one million years ago or twenty, who -can say, further than that they surely antedate -the appearance of man upon this -<span class="pb" id="Page_133">133</span> -planet. The trees are evidently of different -sorts, but mostly conifers apparently related -to our present day araucarias, of -which the Norfolk Island pine is a familiar -example. Mr. F. H. Knowlton, botanist of -the Smithsonian Institution, identifies then -as <i>Araucarioxylon Arizonicum</i>, an extinct -tree once existing also in the east-central -United States.<a class="fn" id="fr_63" href="#fn_63">[63]</a> Limbs and branches in anything -approaching entirety are not found—only -the trunks and infinite fragments are -here. The coloration due to the presence of -iron oxides in the soil at the time of silicification -is often exquisite, in shades of pink, -yellow, blue, brown, crimson—a never failing -source of delight to visitors. Dr. L. -F. Ward, of the United States Geological -Survey, has said that “there is no other -petrified forest in which the wood assumes -so many varied and interesting forms and -colors.... The state of mineralization in -which much of this wood exists almost -places it among the gems or precious stones. -Not only are chalcedony, opals and agates -<span class="pb" id="Page_134">134</span> -found among them, but many approach the -condition of jasper and onyx.”<a class="fn" id="fr_64" href="#fn_64">[64]</a></p> -<p>The parts of the Forest that tourists -usually visit are the so-called First Forest, -about 6 miles south of Adamana (which -contains the huge trunk that spans a picturesque -chasm 45 feet wide, and is known as -the Natural Bridge<a class="fn" id="fr_65" href="#fn_65">[65]</a>); the Second Forest, -2½ miles further south; and the North -Forest. The last is 9 miles due north from -Adamana, at the edge of such a chaotic, -burned-out bit of volcanic waste, as is in -itself worth seeing, breaking away gradually -into the Painted Desert. If for any reason, -your time is too limited to admit of your -visiting more than one section of the Forest, -by all means, let that section be this North -Forest. The trees are less numerous and -the fragments are less strikingly colored -than in the parts to the south, but that background -of color and mystery given by the -desert, lends a fascination and gives to the -<span class="pb" id="Page_135">135</span> -picture a composition that is unique and unforgettable.</p> -<p>There is, moreover, the so-called Third -or Rainbow Forest,<a class="fn" id="fr_66" href="#fn_66">[66]</a> 13 miles southwest of -Adamana. This region contains the most -numerous and the largest trunks, some of -them (partially underground) measuring -upwards of 200 feet in length. The -especially rich coloring of the wood here -has given rise to the local name “Rainbow.”</p> -<p>In several parts of the Petrified Forest (a -large portion of which is now, by the way, -a National Monument), are the ruins of -many small prehistoric Indian villages. The -relics found indicate that four different -stocks of Indians have lived among these -shattered trees, one clearly Hopi, another -probably Zuñian, the others undetermined -(one apparently of cannibalistic habits). -Dr. Walter Hough has written very entertainingly -of this human interest of the Petrified -Forest in Harpers’ Magazine for November, -<span class="pb" id="Page_136">136</span> -1902. The houses of the Rainbow -Forest were unique in aboriginal architecture -in that they were constructed of petrified -logs. To quote Dr. Hough: “It is probable -that prehistoric builders never chose -more beautiful stones for the construction -of their habitations than the trunks of the -trees which flourished ages before man appeared -on the earth. This wood agate also -furnished material for stone hammers, -arrowheads and knives, which are often -found in ruins hundreds of miles from the -Forest.”<a class="fn" id="fr_67" href="#fn_67">[67]</a></p> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/pic010.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="437" /> -<p class="caption">IN THE NORTH PETRIFIED FOREST</p> -<p class="caption">Near Adamana, Arizona. A glimpse of the famous Painted Desert in the background.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/pic011.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="443" /> -<p class="caption">A CORNER IN SANTA FE, N. M.</p> -<p class="caption">The New Mexican capital retains to this day many picturesque features of the Spanish -and Mexican dominance.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_137">137</div> -<h2 id="c11">CHAPTER XI -<br /><span class="small">FLAGSTAFF AS A BASE</span></h2> -<p>A score of years ago Flagstaff<a class="fn" id="fr_68" href="#fn_68">[68]</a> was -chiefly known to the traveler as the gateway -to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, 70 -miles to the northwest. One may still reach -that marvelous chasm by automobile from -Flagstaff, arriving at Grand View after 5 -or 6 hours’ driving, now through a park-like -forest of yellow pine, now across an -open plateau region with alluring views of -far-off mountain ranges and of the Painted -Desert. The completion of the railroad spur -from Williams to the Grand Cañon, however, -put a quietus upon the operation of the -horse stages from Flagstaff; and since the -passing of the Grand Cañon business the -<span class="pb" id="Page_138">138</span> -town has cut small figure in tourist itineraries, -its energies since being concentrated -on the less precarious profits from lumber, -cattle and wool. Nevertheless, its situation -in a clearing of the beautiful Coconino -National Forest, 7000 feet above the sea -makes it a convenient base for visiting certain -attractions of a remarkable nature -thereabout, as lava beds, ice caves, extinct -volcanoes, prehistoric cliff<a class="fn" id="fr_69" href="#fn_69">[69]</a> and cinder-cone -dwellings, the Painted Desert, and -the famous San Francisco Peaks, fabled -home of the Hopi Katchinas and the scene -of many an Indian legend. The town has -several hotels of a modest sort, and is on -the line of the National Old Trails transcontinental -motor highway; and if you -have your own car or the wherewithal to -rent one in Flagstaff, you can be very happy -in this neighborhood for a week or two. -The town itself, with a population of a -<span class="pb" id="Page_139">139</span> -couple of thousand, has a certain picturesqueness -of an up-to-date frontier fashion, in -which automobiles and soda-pop largely -take the place of ponies, pistols and “forty-rod,” -for at this writing the hand of “bone -dry” Prohibition rests paternally upon -Arizona. Especially interesting are Saturday -nights, when the streets are likely to -be thronged with lumberjacks, cowpunchers -and ranchers—American and Mexican—come -to town to swap news and trade, to -see the “shows,” play pool and listen to the -“rag” of blatant gramophones. A Navajo -or two, standing in the glare of the electric -lights, may add a touch of aboriginal color -to the scene—teamsters for some desert -trading post.</p> -<p>Dominating Flagstaff, as Mont Blanc -dominates Chamonix, is the isolated mountain -mass, the highest in Arizona, called the -San Francisco Peaks, snow-crowned seven -or eight months in the year and familiar to -every traveler by the Santa Fe’s transcontinental -trains. Their clustered half-dozen -summits in the form of graceful cones attain -a maximum elevation of 12,611 feet -<span class="pb" id="Page_140">140</span> -above the sea (5600 feet above Flagstaff) -and have been a famous landmark from the -time of the Spanish conquistadores, who -named them, to the present day. The Navajos, -as has been told in a previous chapter, -assign to the great mountain a divine construction -from earth brought up in the -Emergence from the underworld, the gods -who built it pinning it down poetically with -a sunbeam. Matter-of-fact geologists, however, -consider the mass as merely an extinct -volcano with its top blown off, and find its -flanks covered with the congealed lava -streams of successive eruptions. The disintegrated -surfaces of lava make a fertile -bed for the abundant forests, gardens of wild -flowers, and natural fields of indigenous -grasses that clothe the base and sides up to -within a few hundred feet of the craggy top. -If you have a taste for mountain climbing -and fine outlooks, by all means give a -day or two to the San Francisco Mountain. -It is of easiest ascent, and the views, full of -delight from the moment you leave Flagstaff, -attain at the summit a climax that is -nothing short of dramatic. The whole of -<span class="pb" id="Page_141">141</span> -the northern and central Arizona plateau is -spread below and about you in such glory of -color (if the atmospheric conditions be -right) as you have never dreamt of. You -can pick out the farther wall of the Grand -Cañon and the Buckskin Mountains beyond; -the companion volcanic cones of Kendrick, -Bill Williams,<a class="fn" id="fr_70" href="#fn_70">[70]</a> and Sitgreaves to the westward; -the Mogollon Mesa stretching south -towards Phoenix; the Verde Valley; the -Red Rock Country and Oak Creek Cañon; -Sunset Peak;<a class="fn" id="fr_71" href="#fn_71">[71]</a> and most striking of all, the -glory of the Painted Desert stretching -illimitably to the northeast, with the Little -Colorado River winding across it to join the -Big Colorado 60 miles due north of you. -The opportunity to enjoy that unobscured -outlook upon the desert from a point over a -<span class="pb" id="Page_142">142</span> -mile above it, is alone a sufficient reward -for the trip. It is like looking on another -world, so unearthly are the tones in which -that marvelous waste is dyed—indefinite -shades of yellow, pink, crimson, brown, -cream, green; so striking the sculpturing of -its mesas and promontories. Then, too, if -you have a spark of romance in your make-up, -will it not be an event to tread the very -pathways of the gods with whom the Indian -fancy has peopled the glades and gorges of -this hoary old volcano, as the Greeks peopled -Ida—to know that somewhere in these -sunny, piny slopes is the fabled house of the -Sun God, who, when he would travel, summons -a rainbow, as you or I would ring for -a taxicab, and to whom, it is said, the Hopis -still send prayer plumes by a messenger who -trots the 70 miles from the pueblos hither -between sunrise and sunset of a summer -day?</p> -<p>Would it not give you a thrill to feel -when passing through the aspen groves that -dot the upper heights, that in such a rustling -wood here upon this very mountain, when -the world was young, the Hero-Children of -<span class="pb" id="Page_143">143</span> -the Spider Woman slew the wicked Giant -Elk who ravaged the land of the Hopi—those -Hero-Children of whom one was -Youth, begotten of the Light, and the other -Echo, begotten of the Raindrop?<a class="fn" id="fr_72" href="#fn_72">[72]</a></p> -<p>From Flagstaff to the tip of Humphrey’s -Peak, the highest of all, is 10 miles in a bee-line, -or about 15 as pedestrians and horses -go. Of this distance about 5 miles are by -a good road practicable for automobiles, now -winding through open forest, now skirting -some ranch—a pleasant, old-fashioned highway -bordered with worm fences and thickets -of wild rose and goldenrod. From a certain -point on the road to the Peaks, which -are always in view, an easy trail leads -through a charming forest to which the absence -of underbrush gives a park-like character, -open and sunny and carpeted in places -with wild flowers. The prevailing trees for -a couple of thousand feet of the ascent are -yellow pines, rising at their best to a height -of over 100 feet and probably of an age of -300 to 500 years. Above this yellow pine -<span class="pb" id="Page_144">144</span> -belt the trail steepens and zigzags sharply -bringing you out at last amid broken stone -and volcanic scoriae where no trees are, only -shy sub-alpine plants clinging by their toes -to the crevices of the rocks. Here a hog-back -joins Humphrey’s Peak (12,611 feet) -and Agassiz (12,330 feet), and you have -the choice of mounting to either or both. -Under the eastern slopes of these peaks a -glacier 2 miles long once headed, whose bed -is now a large valley within the mountain’s -folds dropping downward to the northeast. -To the geological, this valley with its moraine -and glaciated rocks is a source of -especial interest, since it constitutes one of -the southernmost instances of ice action -within the United States.<a class="fn" id="fr_73" href="#fn_73">[73]</a></p> -<p>A good walker used to high altitudes can -do the round trip from Flagstaff to the summit -and back in a day of 12 hours, but he -should be sure to carry water. For the -average tourist, however, horseback is -recommended with a guide (procurable at -Flagstaff). Added interest will be secured -<span class="pb" id="Page_145">145</span> -by arranging to camp over night upon the -mountain, for in this way the superb light -effects of early morning and evening may be -enjoyed at leisure. Owing to snow on the -peaks most of the year, the ascent must -usually be made between mid-June and mid-October. -June is probably the best month, -if snow is absent, as the atmosphere is then -apt to be at its clearest; after that, September -or early October is the choice. July and -August are months of frequent, almost -daily, thunderstorms, which, of course, are -disturbing factors in more ways than one. -Flagstaff, by the way, is credited by the -United States’ Geological Survey with a -greater rainfall than any other station in -Arizona, and this is attributed to its nearness -to the San Francisco Mountain.</p> -<p>Should you desire a closer acquaintance -with that harlequin of wastes, the Painted -Desert, there are from Flagstaff two trips -you can take across an end of it with -reasonable success in a motor car. One is to -the Hopi village of Oraibi by way of Tolcheco, -and the other to Tuba. The distance -in each case is about 70 miles. To Tuba -<span class="pb" id="Page_146">146</span> -there is a semi-weekly automobile stage -(with shovel and water bags strapped to it), -making the round trip usually inside of one -day. It is an interesting excursion, taking -you close to Sunset Peak, with its remarkable -rosy crest, and over the Little Colorado -River by a bridge that makes the traveler -independent of the sudden rises of that erratic -stream. You will pass here and there -mounds that are the crumbled remains of -prehistoric pueblos, and again stone chips -and bits of trunks of petrified trees, the -scattered fragments of vanished forests of -which the Petrified Forest of Adamana is -our most perfect remnant. Sometimes we -pass beneath ruddy cliffs eroded and -weathered into such grotesqueness of face -and figure as would make Alice out of -Wonderland feel at home, squat toads and -humped camels and ogres with thick grinning -lips. Farther away, mesas jutting into -the desert present the semblance of cities -with towers and ramparts in ghostly tones -of pink and yellow and cream.<a class="fn" id="fr_74" href="#fn_74">[74]</a> Occasionally -<span class="pb" id="Page_147">147</span> -an auto-truck, hauling goods to or from -some desert trade-post, passes you, and -sometimes a wagon train of wool, horse-drawn, -in charge of Navajo teamsters. Approaching -Tuba, you cross the Moenkopi -Wash, and are refreshed with the greenery -of the farms of the Hopis, who from time -immemorial have occupied this haunt of -moisture. If you have time to visit the little -pueblo of Moenkopi, 2 miles from Tuba and -perched on the mesa edge overlooking the -farms, it will interest you. It is the westernmost -of all the Hopi villages, its population -of a couple of hundred enjoying life in -Indian fashion with abounding dances and -thanksgiving. At Tuba itself, there is not -much for the casual visitor, except a couple -of Indian trading establishments and a -Government Boarding School with its concomitant -buildings connected with the -Agency of the Western Navajo Reservation. -The region roundabout, however, includes -enough points of local interest to occupy a -<span class="pb" id="Page_148">148</span> -two or three weeks’ vacation very pleasantly. -Accommodations are obtainable at a trader’s -or one of the Government houses, and saddle -horses may be hired from the Indians. Some -65 miles to the north are certain remarkably -fine pueblo- or Cliff dwelling-ruins, known -as Betata Kin and Keet Seel, in Marsh -Pass.<a class="fn" id="fr_75" href="#fn_75">[75]</a></p> -<p>Twenty or thirty miles south of Flagstaff -is a region of unique interest, known as the -Oak Creek Valley, whither Flagstaffians -motor in season to fish for trout and enjoy -a bit of Arcady. There are a public resort -or two and a number of ranches in the valley, -tributary to which is some of the wildest -scenery in the Southwest. In adjacent -cañons, whose sides often rise an almost -sheer 800 to 1000 feet, are the ruined habitations -of a prehistoric people (probably ancestors -of certain existing Hopi clans)—cliff -<span class="pb" id="Page_149">149</span> -houses, cavate dwellings and fortified -eminences, the last advantageously adopted -by the Apaches in the wars of half a century -ago. The dominant color of the rock -is bright red, frequently in horizontal bands, -and has gained the region the popular appellation -of “The Red Rock Country.” The -cañon walls and outstanding rock masses -have been worn by the elements into columns, -minarets, steeples, temples and other -architectural semblances such as are shown -surpassingly in the Grand Cañon. Indian -pictographs abound—some prehistoric, some -evidently of modern Apache doing. Dr. J. -W. Fewkes, the scientific discoverer of the -region a quarter of a century ago, thought -himself justified in comparing it to the Garden -of the Gods, than which it is much -more extended.<a class="fn" id="fr_76" href="#fn_76">[76]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_150">150</div> -<h2 id="c12">CHAPTER XII -<br /><span class="small">THE GRAND CAÑON OF THE COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA</span></h2> -<p>From Williams, on the Santa Fe’s transcontinental -line, a branch runs due north -across 65 miles of the great Colorado -Plateau and lands the traveler at the very rim -of the Grand Cañon—one of the most enjoyable, -most novel, most awakening sights -among the Southwest’s marvels. Even if -your arrival be at darkest midnight, you will -<i>feel</i> the nearness of that awful void in the -unseen—a strange and humbling experience. -For accommodations you have the choice of -American plan and what passes in the wilderness -for luxury at the big El Továr Hotel,<a class="fn" id="fr_77" href="#fn_77">[77]</a> -or of lodging yourself more economically -but comfortably enough in cabin or tent at -<span class="pb" id="Page_151">151</span> -the nearby Bright Angel Camp with meals -<i>á la carte</i> at the Harvey Café. Then you -will want to know what to see.</p> -<p>The Grand Cañon is among those stupendous -natural wonders that the traveler needs -time to adjust himself to; and I am inclined -to believe that his first act in wisdom is to -sit down at the rim with a comprehensive -map before him and spend a leisurely hour -studying geography. Fortunately a very -good practical map is included in the Santa -Fe’s folder that describes the Cañon, and -this may be had of any agent for the asking. -The names, taken from all sorts of mythologies -and philosophies—Hindu, Chinese, -Norse, British, Greek, Egyptian, with a -dash of Aztec and latter day American—and -given to the various prominent shapes -simulating temples, pagodas, castles, towers, -colonnades and what not, are rather bewildering -and indeed seem out of place in -mid-Arizona. In better taste, I think, are -the more simply named spots that commemorate -adjacent native tribes as Hopi, Walapai, -Zuñi; old white dwellers by the rim like -Bass, Rowe and Hance; and explorers associated -<span class="pb" id="Page_152">152</span> -with the Cañon, such as Powell, -Escalante and Cárdenas. Cárdenas, it may -not be amiss to state, was the officer dispatched -by Coronado from Zuñi to learn -the truth about the great gorge and river, -the report of which Tovar had brought him -from the Hopis. It was Cárdenas and his -little company of a dozen soldiers, who, one -autumn day of 1540, were the first white -men to look into the mighty chasm. At the -bottom they could detect the great river -flowing, seemingly a mere thread of a rivulet; -but their attempts to reach it were fruitless, -so precipitous they found the Cañon -walls.<a class="fn" id="fr_78" href="#fn_78">[78]</a> The stream that first received the -name of Colorado, is the one we now call -Little Colorado. Oñate dubbed it so—Spanish -for red—because of the color of its -turbid waters. The greater river in Cárdenas’s -day was known as <i>el Rio del Tizón</i>, -the river of the Fire-brand—a name given it -by explorers of its lower waters because of -certain Indians on its bank whom the -<span class="pb" id="Page_153">153</span> -Spaniards saw warming themselves with -brands taken from the fire. The Colorado -River as we now know it, and including its -tributaries the Grand and the Green, drains -a region only secondary to the basin of the -Mississippi. Its length from the headwaters -of the Green in Wyoming to the outlet -into the Gulf of California is about 2000 -miles. The Grand Cañon (including 65 -miles above the junction with the Little -Colorado and known as Marble Cañon) -is 283 miles in length, the walls varying from -3000 to nearly 6000 feet high and rising -from the river in a series of huge steps or -terraces, so that the width, which at the river -is from about 100 to 600 feet, increases to -several miles at the rim. The deepest part -of the chasm is near the hotels, and the -river there flows over a mile below them.<a class="fn" id="fr_79" href="#fn_79">[79]</a> -<span class="pb" id="Page_154">154</span> -The Cañon walls are the delight of geologists, -who find there in orderly arrangement -(stratum upon stratum in banded colors) -the deposits of the successive ages of the -earth from the archaean granite to the lava -flows of recent geologic time. A succinct -and readable account of the geological -features of the Cañon will be found in the -United States Geological Survey’s admirable -Guide Book of the Western United -States, Part C—a book of especial value -to the car-window observer on the Santa -Fe route.</p> -<p>Trains to the Cañon are arranged so that -travelers may reach it in the early morning -and leave the same evening. In a way this is -unfortunate, for it offers a temptation, almost -irresistible to an American tourist, to -“do” the place in a day and go on to some -other sight. Of course no one <i>can</i> do it in a -day, but he can do certain things, and he -can get a notion of the general scheme. -Three days at least would best be planned -for, and of course more still would be better. -The principal features that should not be -missed, may be summed up as follows: A -<span class="pb" id="Page_155">155</span> -horseback trip down into the Cañon by -either Bright Angel Trail or the Hermit -Trail; the drive (15 miles the round) over -the Hermit Rim road; the auto trip (26 -miles the round) to Grand View Point. -There are, moreover, several short drives of -four or five miles by public coach to vantage -points along the rim, costing a dollar or two -per passenger; and of course walks innumerable, -among which that to Hopi Point, -about 2 miles northwest from the railway -terminus, is particularly to be recommended -for its sunset view of the Cañon. Another -pleasant short rim walk is to Yavapai Point, -1½ miles to the eastward. From both these -points the view is superb.</p> -<p>The trip down the Bright Angel<a class="fn" id="fr_80" href="#fn_80">[80]</a> trail to -the river and back is an all day jaunt. To -the tenderfoot it is a somewhat harrowing -experience to be borne downward at an -angle of 45 degrees more or less on the back -of a wobbling animal, whose head at times -<span class="pb" id="Page_156">156</span> -hangs over eternity, and whose only footing -is on a narrow shelf scratched out of a precipitous -wall of the Cañon. However, as -nothing tragical happens, and as there is no -escape once you are started on the <i>descensus -Averni</i>, you soon find enjoyment in the -novel trip, zigzagging ever downward -through successive geologic ages marked by -rock strata in white, red, brown and blue.</p> -<p>Something over half way down there is -a grateful let-up, when the trail runs out -upon a plateau watered by a musical little -brook. This place is known as “The Indian -Garden.” It is enclosed on three sides by -lofty reddish walls, and here some Havasupai -Indians are said to have had in comparatively -recent times a village, and to have -cultivated the land. Long before them, however, -<i>en el tiempo de cuanto ha</i>, as the -Pueblo story tellers say in poetic Spanish -(“in the time of how long ago”), another -race must have tilled the same soil, as the -near-by cliffs maintain numerous remains -of rock dwellings and other evidences of -human occupancy. It is a pleasant, flowery, -romantic spot, this Indian Garden, in the -<span class="pb" id="Page_157">157</span> -Cañon’s crimson heart, with its fascinating -environment of rock sculpturings that seem -the towers, palaces and temples of an enchanted -city awaiting the lifting of a spell. -At the plateau’s outer edge you have a -stupendous view of the colossal gorge and -the muddy torrent of the river, leaping and -roaring 1300 feet below. You may make -the Indian Garden the limit of your descent, -or you may continue to the river itself, corkscrewing -down among the crevices and rockbound -ways and echoes of the inexorable -wall until you come out upon a little beach, -past which, more terrible than beautiful, the -savage torrent thunders and cascades and -tears its course to freedom. You will be -glad to get into the blessed upper world -again, but you would not have missed the -experience for a greater cost of clambering.</p> -<p>The Hermit Rim road is a first-class modern -highway (so far barred, thank heaven, -to automobiles), extending about 7½ miles -westward from El Tovar by way of Hopi -Point to the Hermit Basin. Part of it -passes through beautiful stretches of park-like -forest, emerging upon the dizzy brink -<span class="pb" id="Page_158">158</span> -of the Cañon with magnificent outlooks over -chasm and river to distant mountains and -cloud-piled sky. If you enjoy walking, it is -pleasant to do this trip one way in the public -coach and the other afoot by way of Rowe’s -Well. The Hermit Rim Road ends at the -head of a comparatively new trail to the -river, a sort of trail <i>de luxe</i>, 4 feet wide -and protected by a stone wall very reassuring -to the apprehensive. As on the Bright -Angel trail, there is a plateau midway. Here -a public camp is maintained, where accommodations -for an over-night stay may be -had. From this camp to the river must be -done afoot—an easy grade, it is said, but I -cannot speak from personal knowledge. -There is a trail connecting the lower portions -of Hermit and Bright Angel trails, -so that one may go to the river by one route -and return by the other. This consumes -3 days ordinarily, and must be taken as a -camping trip with its concomitant ups and -downs. It is hardly to be recommended to -any but the reasonably robust—and good -natured!</p> -<p>Grand View Point, 13 miles east of El -<span class="pb" id="Page_159">159</span> -Tovar—a beautiful drive that may be done -by motor car through the Coconino Forest—is -the terminus of the old-time stage route -from Flagstaff. The view at the point is -perhaps the finest of all—quite different -from that at El Tovar and more extended: -owing to the greater width between the main -walls of the Cañon; to the fact that the -river here makes a sharp turn to the north; -and the further fact that the relative lowness -of the eastern wall of the bend opens -up a vista towards the desert, which at El -Tovar is hidden. The Grand View round -trip with a look-around at Grand View -Point may be done in half a day from El -Tovar, but if one can afford to give a day -or two to it, the material is here to be worth -the extra time. Here is a hotel to care for -you. Particularly of interest is the trail to -Moran Point, some half dozen miles to the -east, an exquisite outlook and the view point -of Thomas Moran’s famous picture of the -Cañon which occupies a place in the Capitol -at Washington. There is a trail down to -the river from Grand View Point, and another -by way of Red Cañon, heading a little -<span class="pb" id="Page_160">160</span> -to the west of Moran Point. A connecting -trail at the bottom of the Cañon makes it -possible to descend by one trail and return -by the other, if one goes prepared to camp -by the river. There are, by the way, several -varieties of fish in the Colorado, one, the -so-called Colorado salmon,<a class="fn" id="fr_81" href="#fn_81">[81]</a> being a good -table fish, though the catching involves no -sport, as it is not gamey.</p> -<p>The Grand Cañon may be visited at any -season, though in winter there is often snow -upon the rim and upper levels. Usually -there is not enough to interfere seriously -with reaching the various points of interest; -and as one descends into the gorge, one -soon passes out of wintry into warmer and -still warmer conditions. Even in December -some flowers will be blooming in the bottom -of the Cañon. July and August constitute -the usual summer rainy season, when frequent -thunderstorms are to be expected, -particularly in the afternoons. They are -<span class="pb" id="Page_161">161</span> -usually of short duration. The atmospheric -effects accompanying and succeeding them -are often magnificent.<a class="fn" id="fr_82" href="#fn_82">[82]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_162">162</div> -<h2 id="c13">CHAPTER XIII -<br /><span class="small">MONTEZUMA’S CASTLE AND WELL, WHICH MONTEZUMA NEVER SAW</span></h2> -<p>If you happen never to have speculated -in copper or archaeology and are not a -Southwesterner, it is quite likely that you -have not heard of the Verde Valley. It is a -somewhat sinuous cleft up and down the -very center of Arizona, holding in its heart -the Verde River (<i>el Rio Verde</i>, or Green -River, of the Spaniards) which has its source -under the San Francisco Peaks, and after -150 miles or so through cramped cañons -and sunny bottomlands of more or less fertility, -joins the Salt River about 50 miles -east of the latter’s junction with the Gila. -On the western edge of its upper reaches are -the smelter towns of Clarkdale and Jerome,<a class="fn" id="fr_83" href="#fn_83">[83]</a> -and the famous copper mines of the United -Verde Company. Across the valley from -these, to the eastward and bordering the -great Mogollon Mesa that divides the basin of -the Little Colorado and the Gila, is that Red -Rock country referred to in a previous chapter, -together with the Verde’s beautiful tributary, -Oak Creek; while some 30 miles to -the south there enters the Verde another -stream called Beaver Creek. It is upon the -latter the scene of this present chapter is -laid.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/pic012.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="444" /> -<p class="caption">OLD GOVERNOR’S PALACE, SANTA FE, N. M.</p> -<p class="caption">The center for three centuries of the political life of New Mexico, under the successive -regimes of Spaniard, Indian, Mexican and American.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/pic013.jpg" alt="" width="513" height="800" /> -<p class="caption">MONTEZUMA’S CASTLE</p> -<p class="caption">Near Camp Verde, Arizona. A beautiful specimen of -prehistoric Cliff architecture, with which, however, -Montezuma had nothing to do.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_163">163</div> -<p>Today the valley of the Verde maintains -but a sparse population. Here and there is -a white man’s hamlet; here and there are -wickiups of the now peaceable Apaches; and -where, between the cliffs that wall in much -of the valley, there is level land enough to -make farming operations possible, there are -scattering ranches strung along. Time was, -however, when the valley was the home of -an abounding aboriginal population. How -long ago that was no one knows, further -than that it was before—and probably long -before—the 16th century Spaniards discovered -the Upper Verde and reported silver -<span class="pb" id="Page_164">164</span> -outcroppings there. The bordering cliffs -and hilltops are dotted and honeycombed -with the ruins of pueblos, stone fortresses -and cave dwellings to an extent that has -made the region unusually attractive to the -archaeologists. Two of these prehistoric -remains on Beaver Creek hold especial interest -also for the lay traveler. They are -the so-called Casa Montezuma, or Montezuma’s -Castle, and Montezuma’s Well. The -former, a strikingly fine example of a cliff -ruin as imposing in its way as a castle on the -Rhine, has been made a National Monument -and is under such protection of the United -States government as goes with a printed -notice tacked upon a tree nearby, for there -is no resident guardian. The Well is upon -a private ranch 8 miles north of the Castle. -It need hardly be said that Montezuma, -whose name is popularly joined to both, had -nothing whatever to do with either; nor indeed -had any Aztec, though people who get -their ancient history from newspapers, will -tell you that the ruins are of Aztec construction. -Both Castle and Well are close to the -Arizona State Highway, and may be -<span class="pb" id="Page_165">165</span> -reached by a 50 or 60 mile drive from Flagstaff, -or half that from Jerome. Another -way to reach them is from Prescott by automobile -livery. Yet another is by rail from -Prescott to Cherry Creek (Dewey Postoffice) -on the Crown King branch of the -Santa Fe, and then by auto-stage through -the picturesque Cherry Creek Cañon 32 -miles to Campe Verde on the Verde River. -Campe Verde was formerly an army post of -importance during the Apache wars, but is -now peaceful enough for the most pacific, -maintaining a hotel, a garage, a barber shop, -an ice-cream and soda-pop saloon, a store -or two, and similar amenities of 20th century -living as delightful as unexpected in -this out-of-the-way corner of our country.</p> -<p>And I think here is as good a place as any -to say a word about the modern Southwestern -mail stage. It is, of course, motor-driven -in this mechanical age, and lacks the -peculiar dash and picturesqueness of the -4- and 6-horse vehicles of other days. -Nevertheless, much of the charm that enveloped -western stage travel then clings to -the modern auto-stage. There is the same -<span class="pb" id="Page_166">166</span> -immersion in glorious, wild scenery; the -same thrill of excitement as you spin down -mountain grades and around curves with a -cañon yawning hungrily beside you; the -same exhilaration of association with fellow -passengers of types foreign to Broadway or -La Salle Street; many times there is the -same driver, who, surrendering the ribbon -for a steering wheel, has not at all changed -his nature. The seat beside him is still the -premium place, and if he takes a fancy to -you, he will exude information, anecdote -and picturesque fiction as freely as a spring -its refreshing waters. To travel a bit by -stage, when occasion offers, gives a flavor -to your Southwestern outing that you will -be sorry to have missed. Besides, it sometimes -saves you money and time.</p> -<p>From Camp Verde to Montezuma’s -Castle is a pleasant 3 mile jaunt. Of course -you may miss the trail, as I did, and walk -six, but if you keep close to Beaver Creek, -with a sharp eye ahead, you can detect the -ruin from nearly a mile away, snugly ensconced -high up in a niche of a pale cliff, -overlooking the valley. It is a comparatively -<span class="pb" id="Page_167">167</span> -small ruin, but there is a charm in its very -compactness. And there is the charm, too, -of color, the general tone of the buildings -being pink set in a framing of white. The -base is about 75 feet above the level of the -creek that flows at the foot of the cliff—flows, -that is, when water happens to be in -it, which is not always. The structure itself -is perhaps 30 feet high, with substantial -squared walls of masonry, and is in 5 -stories, access from one to another being -either by openings in the ceilings or by modern -ladders fastened against the outside -walls. How the ancients managed the -ascent from the ground, there is none to tell -us. An interesting feature is a bowed parapet -or battlement (the height of one’s -shoulder), which surmounts the fourth -story, and from below hides the fifth story -rooms which are placed well back against -the innermost part of the cliff recess and -roofed by its overhang. Be sure you climb -to that battlemented upper story (it will be -no easy job, for you have to swing yourself -up to it through the ceiling of the fourth), -and leaning upon the parapet, enjoy the -<span class="pb" id="Page_168">168</span> -solitude that stretches before you—from the -sycamores lining Beaver Creek at the cliff’s -foot, across the mesquite-dotted mesa, and -the green bottomlands of the Verde to the -long purple range of the Black Hills in the -dim southwest. If any sound there be, it -is the whisper of the wind in the trees far -below, or the cooing of the wild doves, -which haunt the place. So do bats, and a -certain queer acidulous smell that pervades -the rooms is attributable to them. As you -walk about, your feet stir up the dust of -ages. Here and there on the mud-plastered -walls are human finger prints dried in the -material when it was laid on by prehistoric -hands. In some of the rooms, particularly -in certain cave dwellings (which, following -the natural ledges, you will find scooped out -of the tufa cliff beside the Castle), the ceiling -and walls are blackened still with soot -from the smoke of pre-Columbian fires. -You may pick up bits of pottery, as you -stroll, corn-cobs wizened of the ages, broken -metates, or malpais rubbing stones, mute -reminders of the human drama once enacted -here. The airy battlement is pierced -<span class="pb" id="Page_169">169</span> -with downward-pointing loopholes through -which arrows were doubtless shot at foes -below. It is this abounding and evident -human touch, this mystery of a long vanished -human life, that lends to Southwestern -travel a unique fascination, reaching to -something in us that is not awakened by -purely natural aspects more sublime but -disassociated from man. In spite of the -fact that men will kill one another, mistreat, -enslave and exploit one another, men never -lose a supreme interest in men; stronger -than all is the yearning of the human heart -for other human hearts. Is it love outwearing -love’s antithesis?</p> -<p>Montezuma’s Well is 8 miles further up -Beaver Creek, and is reached by a public -highway quite practicable for automobiles -when the fords of the creek are not running -high water. You pass a ranch every mile -or so, and the Well itself is found to be -situated inside the wire fences of one. After -the hospitable and unexacting solitude of -Montezuma’s Castle, you will experience a -bit of a shock, perhaps, at the fences and in -finding that a fee of half a dollar is imposed -<span class="pb" id="Page_170">170</span> -for entrance to the Well. Nevertheless -the sight is worth the money. Proceeding -from the ranch house across an eighth -of a mile of open, treeless mesa, you come -quite without warning, to a crater-like<a class="fn" id="fr_84" href="#fn_84">[84]</a> -opening 500 feet across, yawning at your -feet. Its walls drop almost perpendicularly -some 60 feet or more to a round pool of -clear water steel blue, except around the -margins, where accumulations of pondweed -give it a brown tinge. There is a precipitous, -stony trail down which you may pick your -way to the water’s edge; and there, as in -the bottom of a colossal mush-bowl, you are -hid from the world and the world from you. -Catclaw and wild grape, hackberry and wild -walnut and salt-bush make a scrubby cover -roundabout, with datura and cleome and -blooming wild tobacco adding a flower-touch. -There is here as at Montezuma’s -Castle a peculiar sense of loneliness and -silence—broken only by an occasional bird -<span class="pb" id="Page_171">171</span> -note, or the hum of vagabond bees. In the -clear, still waters of the pool are reflections -of the cliffs, and raising your eyes to them -you recognize in the southern side a few -squat little stone houses wedged in between -the strata of the rock walls. You can, if -you choose, easily climb to some of them, -and stooping through the small doorways -get a taste of what it was like to be a cliff -dweller. At the north end of the pond -there is a thicket of willows and cottonwoods, -and there the waters find their exit -by an underground passage that would lead -them into Beaver Creek (which flows beyond -the hill) were it not that they are -diverted to irrigate the ranch lands. Near -this place of disappearance, is a very interesting -feature of the Well—a series of -natural caverns reaching far back under the -hill, forming an irregular dwelling of many -rooms, with occasional bits of built-in wall -of mud-plastered stone. Upon such a wall -at the very entrance of the cavern is the -tiny imprint of a child’s hand, left we must -suppose, by some prehistoric toddler steadying -itself—how many, many centuries ago, -<span class="pb" id="Page_172">172</span> -who can tell?—against the freshly plastered -surface, just as a baby, uncertain of its feet, -would do to-day. At the time Mr. Chas. -F. Lummis wrote his fascinating volume, -“Some Strange Corners of our Country,” -and described Montezuma’s Castle and Well, -the precious imprint was perfect; but some -witless latter-day visitor has pecked out the -palm with his vandal jack-knife, destroying -in a moment what Time, the arch-destroyer, -had respected for centuries. Still the marks -of the baby fingers were left when I visited -the place a year ago and I hope still are, to -link the fancy tenderly with that ancient -people, our elder brethren.</p> -<p>The proprietor of the Well, Mr. W. B. -Back, will guide you about and light you -into the cavern’s recesses, piloting you with -a lantern through passages so low and -narrow at times that you must go almost on -hands and knees until he brings you, far -within, into a spacious and utterly dark -rock-chamber with a stream of living water -coursing musically through it, where further -investigation is barred. He will also transport -you in an anachronous row-boat across -<span class="pb" id="Page_173">173</span> -the bosom of the Well. It seems the -soundings deepen suddenly from 80 feet at -the outer part to 500 feet and no bottom at -the center. There the water rises as in a -funnel from its unknown source. At the -outlet beyond the hill the waters gush from -beneath a high, darkling cliff in an impetuous -stream that varies little in volume -throughout the year, the measurement being -about 112 miner’s inches. Your guide takes -you there, too (passing on the way the -ruins of an ancient pueblo that once occupied -the mesa near the Well’s edge), and -you will enjoy the sight of that brisk little -torrent fringed with a riot of maiden-hair -fern and columbine, and darkened by the -shadows from huge sycamores that foregather -about it. The ancient Well-dweller, -knew perfectly the value of that water and -led it by ditches, the remains of which you -may yet see, to irrigate their corn- and bean-fields -a mile away. Apaches, who within -recent years have been the only Indians -dwelling in the region, profess no knowledge -of the people who built the houses here. -Mr. Back (who, by the way, in 1889 filed as -<span class="pb" id="Page_174">174</span> -a homesteader on the land about the Well -including the Well itself as a water right) -informed me that the Apaches regard the -place with disfavor. “<i>Aqua no ’ueno</i>,” one -old man told him, “water no good. Long -time ago, you <i>sabe</i>, three Indian <i>mujeres</i> all -same women, you <i>sabe</i>, she swim out in -water, and go round and round, you <i>sabe</i>, -in the middle, and by ’em by, she go down, -all three. Never come back. No, no—<i>no -’ueno</i>.” The water is warmish, but quite -drinkable—if you can forget about those -Apache ladies who are still in it.</p> -<p>It would seem reasonable that so remarkable -a natural phenomenon as is the Well, -situated in a region as populous with aborigines -as the Verde Valley once was, would -have a place in Indian folk lore; and as a -matter of fact Dr. J. W. Fewkes<a class="fn" id="fr_85" href="#fn_85">[85]</a> has -learned that the Hopis know of its existence, -and claim it as the home of some of -their ancestors. Moreover, the tales of -some of their old men indicate that they -regard the place as the house of the Plumed -Serpent, a divinity peculiarly dear to the -<span class="pb" id="Page_175">175</span> -desert dwelling Hopis of today, as the -guardian of the waters and springs. Indeed, -it is, perhaps, as a shrine of the divine that -the Well is most truly to be considered; and -in view of the extensive pueblo that once -flourished on the rim, it may be that the -houses of the Well walls were used in connection -with religious observances rather -than as a habitation of the common people.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_176">176</div> -<h2 id="c14">CHAPTER XIV -<br /><span class="small">SAN ANTONIO</span></h2> -<p>If you are a Southwesterner, born or -naturalized, returning from a visit “back -East,” your spirits rise with a jump when -the trainmen call out “San Antone!” For -this is the frontier of your own dear country, -and you feel the thrill that goes with -getting home again and being among your -own people. Dusty and a bit down at the -heel in spots is San Antonio, you think? -Yes, son, but it is picturesque; and there are -adobes and Mexicans, Stetson hats and cart-wheel -dollars once more, and it is where the -Southwest begins, if you are westbound on -the S. P.</p> -<p>San Antonio more than anywhere else in -Texas has an Old World atmosphere. The -former Spanish capital of the province, there -are parts of it that impart to the visitor -<span class="pb" id="Page_177">177</span> -much the same feeling that Monterey, that -other Spanish capital, gives him in California—the -feeling that <i>may be</i> this is the -United States, but it needs to be demonstrated. -Of course, being a city of 100,000 -people and commercially important, it has -its well-groomed, American side, but unless -you are in San Antonio merely in quest of -health and comfort,<a class="fn" id="fr_86" href="#fn_86">[86]</a> it is not that spick-and-span -side that appeals to your traveler’s -taste. You will prefer those streets, irregular -and even unpaved (often their Spanish -names still clinging to them), of the older -quarters, where cracked one-storied adobes -in open sunshine, elbow stately old tree-embowered -mansions, whose tangled gardens -seem to hide in their unkempt corners -untold romances. You will like the Mexican -quarter with its queer little shops, and the -market square with its picturesque crowds -of swarthy <i>peones</i>, donkeys and country -teams of odd sorts, its squatting street venders -of <i>tortillas</i>, cakes, <i>dulces</i>, songbooks, -<span class="pb" id="Page_178">178</span> -religious pictures and shoe-strings. You -will like, too, the bridges over the little river -that winds cosily about through the midst -of the town, and the waterside lawns where -trees cast a comfortable shade and summer -houses invite to tea <i>al fresco</i>. There are -literally dozens of those bridges, with railings -at a convenient height to lean your -elbows on and dream away an idle half-hour. -Moreover, you will like the many charming -parks and plazas, where you may sit under -a palm tree and enjoy the passing tide of -open-air life and make more acquaintances -in half an hour than you would in New York -in a year.</p> -<p>The Main Plaza is dominated by the -cathedral of San Fernando, which dates -from 1738, though little of the original -structure remains—most of the present -building having been constructed about half -a century ago. What is left of the original -church is in the rear, backing on another and -larger square, the old <i>Plaza de Armas</i>, or -Military Plaza as it is now called.</p> -<p>Modern San Antonio has risen out of the -consolidation of the presidio of San Antonio -<span class="pb" id="Page_179">179</span> -de Béjar, the Mission of Antonio de -Valero (both mission and presidio founded -in 1718) and the <i>villa</i>—a form of Spanish -municipality—of San Fernando, founded in -1730. The Mission, after abandonment as -a religious institution, was turned into a -fortress and barracks, and acquired the -name of Alamo.<a class="fn" id="fr_87" href="#fn_87">[87]</a> The Church of the Mission -and what is left of the main building -of the Fort are the most famous historical -buildings in the city. They face on the -Alamo Plaza, and are of such unique interest -as to draw, in themselves, many visitors -to San Antonio; for they are in a sense -to Texas what Faneuil Hall is to New England, -the cradle of its liberty. Late in 1835, -when Texas was still a part of Mexico, San -Antonio was stormed and captured by a -band of insurgent American-Texans under -the leadership of “Old Ben” Milam, who was -killed in the fight. (You will see his statue -in Milam Square, if you are interested -enough to look it up). The Alamo, which -<span class="pb" id="Page_180">180</span> -was well outside the San Antonio of those -days, was surrendered with the city. Here -the Texans later entrenched themselves, and -in February and March of the following -year were besieged for 12 days by 4000 -Mexicans under General Santa Ana. Of -the Texans, there were less than 200, including -some women and children. Refusing -to surrender, every man of them was -killed in the final assault upon the place, the -only survivors (according to H. H. Bancroft) -being 3 women, 2 children and one -negro boy servant. “Remember the Alamo” -became the war-cry of the Texans in the -subsequent struggle that ended in the independence -of the province.</p> -<p>The little Alamo Church and part of the -main building that we see to-day, form only -a small portion of the establishment that -existed in 1836 and was occupied by the -Texan defenders. Besides this church part -(now maintained as a public monument) -there was the large two-story <i>convento</i>-fortress -divided into rooms and used as -armory and barracks, part of which now -exists and is cared for by the State of Texas; -<span class="pb" id="Page_181">181</span> -also a prison building and courtyard; the -whole covering between 2 and 3 acres. Prominent -among the Alamo defenders was that -picturesque character and popular Southwestern -hero, Davy Crockett. Another was -James Bowie, to whom many authorities attribute -the invention of the famous knife -that bears the Bowie name, but Bancroft -says it was Rezin Bowie, a brother of James, -who originated it. These and others of the -participants in the Texan war of independence -are commemorated in the names of -streets, parks and public houses throughout -the city. As for the Alamo, it is bait in all -sorts of business ventures—giving name to -saloons, suspenders, grocery stores, restaurants, -lodging houses and what not.</p> -<p>Next to the Alamo, the sightseer (unless -an enthusiasm for matters military takes -him straight to San Antonio’s famous army -post, Sam Houston), will find worth while -a visit to the old Franciscan Missions, now -in ruins, that are strung along the San Antonio -River to the south of the city. There -are four of these, the first about 2 miles -from the Alamo, the rest at similar intervals -<span class="pb" id="Page_182">182</span> -of a couple of miles. Americans have got -in the way of calling them, in numerical -fashion, First, Second, Third and Fourth -Missions, respectively, to the neglect of their -fine old Spanish names. The First, which is -on the southern outskirts of the city, and -may be reached by a moderate walk from -a street car line, is the Mission <i>Nuestra -Señora de la Purísima Concepcion de Acuña</i> -(Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, -of Acuña). From quite a distance one -catches sight of its twin square towers with -pyramidal tops and its high dome peeping -above a tangle of mesquite, chinnaberry and -pecan trees, and sprawling juisache bushes. -A Mexican family lives in an end of the -ruined <i>convento</i> part, and a small fee is -charged for showing the inside of the -church and permitting you to climb the -belfry for a fine view over the country. The -façade is interesting with much curious -sculpturing. The knotted cord of St. Francis -winds above the austere polygonal “arch” of -the doorway, upon which is this Spanish inscription: -<i>A su patrono y princessa con estas -armas atiende esta mission y defiende el</i> -<span class="pb" id="Page_183">183</span> -<i>punto de su pureza</i>. (With these arms this -Mission attends her Patroness and Princess -and defends the state of her immaculateness.) -This is an obvious allusion to the controversy -long maintained among old-time -theologians concerning the dogma of the -Virgin Mary’s immaculate conception—a -doctrine defended and preached by the Franciscans -from the first. In the corners immediately -above the arch are two medallions, -the one bearing an unusual form of -the Franciscan Order’s coat-of-arms—the -Saviour’s naked arm and the sleeved arm -of St. Francis nailed together to the Cross; -the other carved in the semblance of five -blood-drops, to symbolize perhaps the stigmata -of St. Francis. Upon the keystone is -another elaborate embellishment now much -worn by the elements. The central figure of -this is plainly representative of the consecrated -elements in the Lord’s Supper—a -slender Spanish chalice surmounted by the -Sacred Host. Worn figures at the sides -of the chalice may have represented -clouds or adoring angels. The whole carving -of the keystone obviously typifies the -<span class="pb" id="Page_184">184</span> -Church’s missionary purpose. The front -was once gaily frescoed in red, yellow, blue -and orange; but Time’s remorseless hand -has fallen heavily on that. Begun in 1731, -the building was not completed until 1752. -After Mexican independence from Spain -was accomplished, this Mission as well as -the others, was abandoned and was not infrequently -used by both Mexican and United -States troops for barracks and stables. -Some 30 years ago Bishop Neraz of San -Antonio had La Purísima Concepcion cleared -of rubbish and re-dedicated to Our Lady of -Lourdes.<a class="fn" id="fr_88" href="#fn_88">[88]</a></p> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/pic014.jpg" alt="" width="487" height="800" /> -<p class="caption">SAN JOSÉ DE AGUAYO</p> -<p class="caption">The sculptured window of this old Franciscan -Mission near San Antonio, Texas, is widely famed -for its refined beauty.</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/pic015.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="426" /> -<p class="caption">SAN XAVIER DEL BAC, ARIZONA.</p> -<p class="caption">Though largely restored, this survival of early 17th-century missionary effort, is one of -the most interesting antiquities of its class in the United States.</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_185">185</div> -<p>The Second Mission, properly called San -José de Aguayo, was the first founded of -the four, dating from 1720. It was 11 -years a-building, and the date of its completion, -March 5, 1731, seems to have determined the beginning of the remaining -three Missions in the chain, all of which were -founded on their present sites in that same -year.<a class="fn" id="fr_89" href="#fn_89">[89]</a> It was in its day the most flourishing -of the Texas Missions, as, in its ruins, it is -the most beautiful. The builder indulged to -the uttermost his love of florid carving, and -the broken façade of the roofless church is a -marvel of ornate sculpturing—of saints, life -size or in bust, cherubs’ heads and flaming -hearts, volutes and arabesques and conchoids -innumerable. But it is good sculpture -and an amazing thing that it should -have been wrought to the glory of God in -that wilderness of what was Northern -Mexico, near two centuries ago. Doubtless -it was the work of some artisan (I have read -that his name was Juan Huisar) brought up -from Old Mexico where such ecclesiastical -art was encouraged from the beginning of -the Spanish occupation; and for assistants -Indians were employed. Around the corner -<span class="pb" id="Page_186">186</span> -from this front is a window in the baptistry -that makes you exclaim for the beauty of it, -so exquisite is it in its sculptured setting, so -delicate and of so simple loveliness is its -<i>reja</i>, or grating of wrought iron. And about -it in the broken chinks of crumbling masonry -is a fern garden of Nature’s own sowing, of -a sort that thrives in the sunshine and aridity -of the Southwest and nowhere else, a species -that botanists call <i>Notholaena sinuata</i>. The -Mission is quite abandoned now save for an -occasional service at a modest little altar in -one room. A neighboring Mexican family -has the key and supplies a guide.</p> -<p>These two Missions are usually all the -hurrying tourist sees; but an hour more, if -you are in an automobile, is enough to afford -a glance at the other two, which, if less interesting, -are still a pleasant adventure. The -Third (6 miles from San Antonio) is Mission -<i>San Juan Capistrano</i> (Saint John of -Capistrano, in Italy), and the Fourth is <i>San -Francisco de la Espada</i> (Saint Francis of the -Sword). The last has undergone some restoration -to fit it for the resident priest, who -ministers to a Mexican flock quartered -<span class="pb" id="Page_187">187</span> -roundabout. The entire round of the Missions -can be easily done by motor car in half -a day; but take a day to it, if you can spare -the time, picnic somewhere by the river, and -do the beautiful old places with leisure and -reverence. Surely one can do worse things, -to quote Sidney Lanier, “than to steal out -here from town ... and dream back the -century and a half of strange, lonesome, -devout, hymn-haunted and Indian-haunted -years that have trailed past these walls.”</p> -<p>Annually during the last week of April, -there is held in San Antonio an open air -carnival called the Fiesta San Jacinto. The -name commemorates the decisive battle of -San Jacinto, fought April 21, 1836, between -Mexicans and Texans, and ending the War -of Texan Independence. Elaborate celebrations -mark the festival, which is almost as -well known in the Southwest as the New -Orleans Mardi Gras.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>NOTE: Readers interested in particulars of the -history of the San Antonio Missions will be repaid -by consulting the valuable work of Miss Adina -DeZavala, entitled: “History and Legends of The -Alamo and Other Missions in and Around San -Antonio.”</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_188">188</div> -<h2 id="c15">CHAPTER XV -<br /><span class="small">IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GIANT CACTUS</span></h2> -<p>There are two Arizonas. There is that -wide, breezy plateau region of the north, -a mile and more above sea level, where our -travels so far have been; and there is the -much lower desert region of the south slanting -downward from the Gila River to Sonoran -Mexico, from which country there is -little to distinguish it physically. This desert -region, known to the Spaniards as Pimería -Alta (that is, the upper country of the Pima -Indians), was the only portion of what was -afterwards called Arizona to possess a white -population until several years after our Mexican -War. The tourist to-day penetrates it -in two general ways. Near the Mexican -frontier the Southern Pacific transcontinental -line traverses it, passing through Yuma -and Tucson and reaching up to Phoenix by a -<span class="pb" id="Page_189">189</span> -branch from Maricopa. From the north a -branch of the Santa Fe system runs southward -from Ash Fork through Prescott -directly to Phoenix.</p> -<p>Phoenix is the State capital, a very modern -little city dating from 1817, with a population -of perhaps 20,000. There is a touch -of poetry in the name, which was given to -symbolize the rising of a new civilization -from the ashes of that prehistoric culture -the evidences of whose existence cover so -much of Southern Arizona. Here, where -50 years ago was pure desert lorded over by -the giant Sahuaro—that huge tree-cactus -which is Arizona’s State emblem—we find -today surrounding Phoenix a pleasant land -of ranches watered by full irrigation canals -flowing in the shade of palms and cottonwoods, -where besides the common staples of -potatoes, corn and alfalfa, there is the exotic -grace of the orange and the fig, the olive, -the date and the apricot. This is the valley -of the Salt River, whose waters are impounded -by the huge Roosevelt Dam, some -80 miles east of Phoenix. Travelers desirous -of studying desert reclamation will -<span class="pb" id="Page_190">190</span> -find Phoenix a good center for their observations.</p> -<p>If you value your personal comfort, the -time to visit Phoenix is between November -and May. During the rest of the year the -weather normally is remorselessly hot to the -unacclimated. My own acquaintance with -the city began in August. In a hazy way I -had noticed something unaccustomed about -the look of the population, the men particularly, -but failed to analyze it until a sociable -street car conductor remarked to me, -“Stranger here?” “Yes,” said I, “my first -day.” “We always know strangers right -away,” he continued. “You see, they wear -their coats.” Then I took a fresh look -around and though it was a fairly crowded -street, I failed to see a man who was not in -his shirt sleeves. The winter and early -spring, however, are delicious with the -peculiar purity and dryness of the desert air -to which a touch of frost at night may give -added vitality.</p> -<p>That interesting 120 mile automobile -highway called the Apache Trail finds at -Phoenix its western terminus. Its eastern -<span class="pb" id="Page_191">191</span> -end is at Globe, a mining town on modern -lines in the center of a rich copper district.<a class="fn" id="fr_90" href="#fn_90">[90]</a> -This point is connected by rail with Bowie, -124 miles distant, on the Southern Pacific -Railway. Transcontinental travelers by this -route, either east- or west-bound, are now -given the opportunity of varying their trip -by taking this motor drive over the Apache -Trail, linking up with the train again at the -point of ending. The feature of the motor -trip, which consumed 9 to 12 hours, is the -chance it yields the traveler to get a more -intimate acquaintance with the Arizona -countryside than is possible from a car window. -Mines and cattle ranges, stupendous -cañons, strange rock-sculpturings in glowing -colors, the desert with its entrancing -vistas, its grotesque and often beautiful -plant-life, even a glimpse of prehistoric -ruins—all this the drive affords; and to it -is added the impressive sight of the Roosevelt -Dam with its beautiful, winding driveway -upon the breast and its exhibition of -<span class="pb" id="Page_192">192</span> -man-made waterfalls and 30-mile lake, an -unoffended Nature looking indulgently down -from surrounding precipices and mountain -crests and seeming to say, “Son, not so bad.” -There is a hotel at the Dam, on a promontory -overlooking the water—and in the -water bass and “salmon” are said to be. A -stop-over here is necessary if you wish to -visit the Cliff Dwellings, 5 miles to the eastward, -officially known as the Tonto National -Monument.</p> -<p>The Apache Trail detour cuts the traveler -out of stopping off at one of the most interesting -little cities of the Southwest—Tucson.<a class="fn" id="fr_91" href="#fn_91">[91]</a> -It may be that not all will find -this oasis town, lapped in the desert and girt -about with low mountains, as much to their -liking as I do, but I believe it possesses -features worth going back on one’s tracks -<span class="pb" id="Page_193">193</span> -to see; for it has a decided character of its -own. With an out-and-out modern American -side, there is the grace of an historic -past, whose outward and visible sign is a -picturesque Spanish quarter in adobe, pink, -blue and glaring white, clustering about a -sleepy old plaza and trailing off through a -fringe of Indian <i>ranchería</i> to the blazing -desert. The region roundabout is associated -with pretty much all the history that Arizona -had until it became part of the United States. -The Santa Cruz Valley, in which Tucson -lies, was a highway of travel during three -centuries between Old Mexico and the -Spanish settlements and Missions of Pimería -Alta. Through this valley or the -neighboring one of San Pedro (there is a -difference of opinion on this point), Brother -Marcos de Niza, the first white man to put -foot in Arizona, must have passed in 1539 -on his way to Zuñi’s Seven Cities; and this -way, the following year, came Coronado -upon the expedition that made of New -Mexico a province of Spain. A century -later the region was the scene of the spiritual -labors of Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino, a -<span class="pb" id="Page_194">194</span> -devoted Jesuit missionary to the Indians—a -man of mark in his time, to whom is credited -the founding of the Spanish Mission -San Francisco Xavier del Bac, about 9 miles -south of Tucson. The present beautiful -structure, however (Tucson’s crack sight for -tourists), was not erected until long after -Padre Kino’s day.</p> -<p>San Xavier is, in itself, worth a stop-over -at Tucson. You may make the round trip -from the railway station in a couple -of hours by automobile, getting en route a -taste of genuine desert scenery, with its scattered -covering of creosote bush, mesquite, -cat’s claw, ocotillo and sahuaro. The Mission -building is one of the most beautiful -examples of Spanish ecclesiastical architecture -in our country; and the pure white -structure, lonely in the desert, its glistening -walls and stately towers and dome silhouetted -against a sapphire sky, makes a -striking sight, oriental in its suggestion. -The church part is still used for religious -services, and other portions form the residence -of Sisters of a Catholic order who -conduct a school for the children of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_195">195</span> -Papago Indians. The primitive habitations -of the latter, scattered about within easy -access of the Mission, are the Mission’s only -near neighbors. A small fee admits one to -the church. A feature of interest at the -front is the coat-of-arms in relief of the -Order of Saint Francis of Assisi.<a class="fn" id="fr_92" href="#fn_92">[92]</a> This is -evidence enough that the present structure, -which was begun in 1783 and finished in -1797, was erected by Franciscans, although, -as already stated, the Mission itself was -founded about a century previously by -Jesuits. In 1768 and for ten succeeding -years, the resident missionary at San Xavier -was Padre Francisco Garcés, one of the -most remarkable characters in the Southwest’s -history. An enthusiastic young priest -in his early thirties when he came to San -Xavier, and possessed of a powerful physique, -he journeyed on foot up and down the -valleys of the Gila and the Colorado (even -penetrating into California and to the Hopi -<span class="pb" id="Page_196">196</span> -village of Oraibi), tirelessly searching out -Indians, and preaching to them Christ and -the gospel of reconciliation. He was indeed -the original Christian Pacifist of the Southwest, -urging upon the Indian tribes everywhere -that they should settle their differences -peaceably and live together as brothers. -To prove his faith he would never suffer a -military escort to accompany him in his -wilderness pioneering, but took only an -Indian companion or two as interpreter, and -a mule to carry his ecclesiastical impedimenta. -Neither would he bear any weapon -for defense, but went “equipped only -with charity and apostolic zeal.”<a class="fn" id="fr_93" href="#fn_93">[93]</a> His -kindly, joyous character, so endeared him to -the aborigines, that, as he himself records, -a village would often refuse to supply him -a guide to the next tribe, wanting to keep -him for themselves. Under such circumstances, -he would set out alone. He was a -rare puzzle to those barbarians, both because -<span class="pb" id="Page_197">197</span> -they found it difficult to decide whether -in his long gown and clean-shaven face -he was man or woman, and because he -strangely wanted nothing of them but -the chance to give them a free passport -to Heaven—an inexplicable sort of white -man, indeed!</p> -<p>While on your Mission pilgrimage, it will -be worth while to continue southward some -50 miles more to Mission San José de -Tumacácori. The road is fairly good and -about 7 hours will suffice for the round from -Tucson by automobile; or the train may be -taken on the Nogales branch of the Southern -Pacific to Tubac station, whence a walk -southward a couple of miles brings you to -the Mission.<a class="fn" id="fr_94" href="#fn_94">[94]</a> The buildings, mostly of -adobe, are in ruins and very picturesque -with a domed sanctuary and a huge square -belfry, now broken and dismantled. They -and a few acres surrounding them now form -<span class="pb" id="Page_198">198</span> -the Tumacácori National Monument, under -the care of the United States Government. -This Mission in the wilderness was once, -next to San Xavier, the most important in -what is now Arizona. It was established by -Jesuits in 1754, though the present church -building is of Franciscan structure of much -later date, having been completed in 1822, -replacing one destroyed by the ceaselessly -raiding Apaches.<a class="fn" id="fr_95" href="#fn_95">[95]</a> Of interest, too, in this -vicinity, is the ancient village of Tubac, 2 -miles north of Tumacácori. Here in the 18th -century was a Spanish presidio thought -needful for supplementing the preaching of -the friars by the argument of the sword. -To Californians and those interested in the -history of the Golden State, the place has an -appeal because here during several years Don -Juan Bautista Anza was commandant—the -sturdy soldier who conceived the idea of a -practicable overland route from Mexico -<span class="pb" id="Page_199">199</span> -across the deserts to the Spanish settlements -on the California coast, and in 1775-6 convoyed -over this route the colonists who -founded San Francisco. Today Tubac is an -unpretentious little adobe hamlet sprawling -about a gravelly, sunny knoll, and looking -across the Santa Cruz River with its fringe -of billowy cottonwoods to the blue line of -the Santa Rita and San Gaetano ranges. At -Rosy’s Café I got a modest but comforting -luncheon, and on your way to Tumacácori -you, too, might do worse.</p> -<p>West of Tucson 65 miles is the little town -of Casa Grande, which takes its name from -one of the most famous prehistoric ruins in -the United States, standing about 18 miles -to the northeast, near the Gila River. If -you have a taste for prehistoric architecture, -you will enjoy Casa Grande, for it is <i>sui -generis</i> among our country’s antiquities. If, -on the other hand, you are just an ordinary -tourist, you must decide for yourself -whether a half day’s motor trip across the -desert to see a ruinous, cubical mud house -topped with a corrugated iron roof, in the -midst of a sunburnt wilderness, will or will -<span class="pb" id="Page_200">200</span> -not be worth your while. What touches the -fancy is that here, centuries doubtless before -Columbus (perhaps before the time of -the Cliff Dwellers) dwelt and toiled an unknown -people whose remains are of a type -that possesses important points of difference -from those found elsewhere within the limits -of the United States, though similar ruins -exist in Mexico. Casa Grande is Spanish -for Great House, and is given to this ruin -because its outstanding feature is a huge -block of a building of three or four stories -in height, and thick walls of <i>caliche</i>—a mixture -of mud, lime and pebbles molded into -form and dried, somewhat as modern concrete -walls are built up. The unique character -of the Casa Grande caused it to be set -aside 25 years ago as a National Monument, -and important work has since been done -there by Government ethnologists, in the -way of strengthening and repairing the -crumbling walls and cleaning up the rooms. -Extensive excavations have also been made -close by, resulting in uncovering the foundations -of a numerous aggregation of houses -plazas, enclosing walls, etc. These reveal -<span class="pb" id="Page_201">201</span> -the fact that in some age the place was a -walled city of importance, even if it was of -mud—a sort of American Lutetia, to which -Fate denied the glory of becoming a Paris. -The huge building in the center—the Casa -Grande—probably served partly as a religious -temple, but principally as a citadel -where in time of attack by enemies the people -took refuge. Access to the upper stories -was doubtless by ladders outside, as in -modern pueblos. Indeed, this is but one of -several walled-in compounds of buildings -that formerly existed in the Gila Valley, and -are now but shapeless heaps of earth. Some -of these close to the main Casa Grande ruin -have been excavated and their plan laid bare. -The remains of an extensive irrigation system -are still in evidence, water having been -drawn from the Gila.</p> -<p>The first white man of unimpeachable -record to see Casa Grande was that Padre -Eusebio Kino, of whom we heard at San -Xavier and who gave the ruin its Spanish -name. He learned of it from his Indians, -and in 1694 visited the place, saying mass -in one of its rooms. There is some reason -<span class="pb" id="Page_202">202</span> -to identify the spot with Chichiticale, or -Red House, a ruin noted in the reports of -Fray Marcos de Niza and of Coronado, both -of whom probably passed not far from Casa -Grande on their way to Zuñi, but most -scholars now reject this theory of identity. -After Kino the ruin was frequently examined -by explorers and written about up -to the American occupation. Anza and his -San Francisco colonists camped a few miles -distant, and the commandant with his two -friars, Padres Garcés and Font, inspected -the place with great interest on October 31, -1775. Font in his diary gives a circumstantial -account of it, calling it <i>La Casa de -Moctezuma</i> (Montezuma’s House), and -narrates a tradition of the neighboring Pima -Indians as to its origin. It seems<a class="fn" id="fr_96" href="#fn_96">[96]</a> that long -ago, nobody knows how long, there came to -that neighborhood an old man of so harsh -and crabbed a disposition that he was called -Bitter Man (<i>el Hombre ’Amargo</i>, in Padre -<span class="pb" id="Page_203">203</span> -Font’s version). With him were his daughter -and son-in-law, and for servants he had the -Storm Cloud and the Wind. Until then the -land had been barren, but Bitter Man had -with him seeds which he sowed, and with the -help of the two servants abundant crops -grew year after year, and were harvested. -It was these people who built the Great -House, and they dwelt there, though not -without quarrels because of Bitter Man’s -character, so that even Storm Cloud and -Wind left him at times, but they came back. -After many years, however, all went away—whither, -who knows—and were heard of -no more forever.</p> -<p>Casa Grande may also be reached by conveyance -from Florence on the Arizona Eastern -Railway, from which point it is distant -a dozen miles or so. Owing to the extreme -summer heat of this desert country, the trip -to the ruin is most comfortably made in the -late autumn, winter or early spring. There -is a resident care-taker who acts as guide.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_204">204</div> -<h2 id="c16">CHAPTER XVI -<br /><span class="small">SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</span></h2> -<p>“Shall they say of you, you have been to -Rome and not seen the Pope?” Yet that is -what will be said if you turn back at the -Colorado River and leave Southern California -out of your Southwestern travels. -However, few people do that. The fear is -that in their haste to reach that tourist playground, -they may neglect too much of what -the preceding chapters have dwelt upon. -Intent upon seeing the Pope, they may do -scant justice to Rome.</p> -<p>By Southern California is meant California -south of the Teháchapi Mountains -and their western prolongation ending in -Santa Barbara County at the sea. It is not -a political division, but Nature’s—in its -physical aspect differing quite markedly -from Central and Northern California. -<span class="pb" id="Page_205">205</span> -Long regarded with a sort of mild contempt -by the Americans who settled Central California -and who habitually spoke of the -South as “the cow counties,” Southern California -has in the last quarter century attained -a reputation not short of gilt-edged. -Lonely, treeless plains and valleys and brush-clad -mesas that a comparatively few years -ago were counted desert and good for -nothing except for cattle ranges and sheep -runs, have become, with the development of -water, pleasant lands of fruitfulness supporting -a numerous and progressive population. -The extensive cultivation of the orange, the -lemon, the fig, the grape, the English walnut, -the apricot, the olive; the planting of the -eucalyptus, the palm and a hundred kinds of -exotic shade and ornamental trees; the dotting -of the landscape with villas of a distinguished -sort of architecture patterned on -Italian and Spanish models—all this has -wrought a transformation that makes even -more appropriate today than 25 years ago -the sobriquet of “Our Italy” given the -region by Charles Dudley Warner.</p> -<p>Here wealthy Easterners maintain winter -<span class="pb" id="Page_206">206</span> -homes as they keep summer estates on the -Atlantic Coast, and less well-to-do folk—retired -farmers, tradesmen or professional -people—buy a bungalow and settle down to -the enjoyment of a good climate and the -luxury of having roses and green peas in -their winter gardens. Not only Americans -but those of other nationalities have discovered -that Southern California totals a -remarkable number of points in the problem -of comfortable living—a healthful and delightful -climate (notably in winter), a fruitful -soil capable of raising everything natural -to the temperate zone besides a large number -of things sub-tropical, a beautiful and -varied terrain embracing seaside, valley and -mountain, and an admirable system of -capital roads. For the tourist there is not -only the attraction of this beauty and comfort, -but there is the drawing of historic -interest, touched with that indefinable sense -of romance that attaches wherever Spain has -had a foothold. In Southern California as -elsewhere in the Southwest, that Spanish -flavor is very evident, manifested in the -presence of a considerable Spanish-speaking -<span class="pb" id="Page_207">207</span> -population, in the remains of Spanish-built -Missions and ranch houses, and in the persistence -of Spanish geographic nomenclature.</p> -<p>The hub of Southern California is Los -Angeles, which in a generation has expanded -from a sleepy little half-Spanish pueblo of a -few thousand to a metropolis of half a million, -with a taste for the latest in everything -and the money to indulge it. It is the -natural center from which to do one’s sightseeing, -though Pasadena, adjoining it on the -north, is almost as convenient and, indeed, -preferred by many who are not in a hurry -and prefer surroundings more rural. Pasadena -is a little city of 40,000, beautifully -situated on a shelving mesa at the base of the -Sierra Madre and overlooking the fertile -San Gabriel Valley. It is nationally famous -for its numerous fine estates and the winter -residences of wealthy Easterners; but outside -of that it possesses mile upon mile of -tree-lined streets where modest homes of the -bungalow type look out from a setting of -vine and shrub and flower. Each New -Year’s Day the city becomes the objective -<span class="pb" id="Page_208">208</span> -of tens of thousands of visitors to view the -Tournament of Roses, an outdoor fiesta -whose distinctive feature is a street floral -pageant.</p> -<p>From Los Angeles lines of transportation -radiate to all points of interest. You have -your pick of steam railways, electric lines, -auto-stages and ocean steamers. Hundreds -of miles of first class, hard-surfaced roads -make Southern California a motorist’s paradise, -and automobiling is here so notable a -feature of tourist life that, if possible, the -traveler should make provision for it when -packing his pocket book. Public automobiles -are abundant and the prices reasonable -enough, from $1.50 per hour upward, with -special rates for trips. If you are able to -club with others for a car, you may find this -the cheapest form of travel. Maps and -specific information as to drives may be -had at offices of the Automobile Club of -Southern California.<a class="fn" id="fr_97" href="#fn_97">[97]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_209">209</div> -<p>For those who do not care for motoring -or find it too expensive, most of the desirable -points are reached by electric and steam -lines, or by auto-stages. There are several -daily excursions scheduled by the Pacific -Electric Railway, which afford at a minimum -of expense a satisfactory means of getting a -comprehensive idea of Southern California. -One of these, to Mount Lowe (a prominent -<span class="pb" id="Page_210">210</span> -peak of the Sierra Madre), may be substituted -for the automobile drive up Mount -Wilson. The visit to San Juan Capistrano -Mission may be made by train, the railway -station being close by. There is a resident -priest and religious services are regularly -held in one of the restored rooms. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_211">211</span> -Mission was founded in 1775, and the -church part—now a ruin, the result of an -earthquake in 1812—marked in its prime -the high-tide of Mission architecture in -California.</p> -<p>The Franciscan Mission establishments in -California are among the most interesting -historical monuments of our country; and -those of the southern end of the State remain -to-day especially noteworthy. Ten -miles from Los Angeles is Mission San -Gabriel (founded in 1771 on the bank of -the Rio Hondo a few miles east of the present -site, to which it was removed in 1775). -It was for many years a principal center of -civilization in the province, the settlement -antedating the founding of Los Angeles by -several years. Of the original establishment -little remains but the church part, which is -in a state of good preservation and serves -as a place of worship for a considerable congregation, -largely of Spanish descent. Mission -San Fernando (about 25 miles west of -the heart of Los Angeles) is deserted, save -by a caretaker. The fine corridored <i>convento</i>, -flush with the highway, is its most conspicuous -<span class="pb" id="Page_212">212</span> -feature today, but the Mission was -once of notable extent. A cloistered walk -formerly connected the <i>convento</i> with the -ruined church in the rear. If you stroll on -past the church to the ancient olive orchard -beyond and look back, having the two date -palms there in your foreground, you will get -a charming picture of the noble old temple -where Padre “Napoleon” strove, during a -third of the Mission’s existence, to steer his -dusky children heavenward. Apropos of -these California Missions (whose plan was -quite different from those of New Mexico -and Arizona) it should be borne in mind -that originally each consisted of a huge hollow -square of buildings, facing within on an -open courtyard. The church occupied part -or all of one side, the other sides consisting -of living rooms for the one or two padres -(the <i>convento</i> part), kitchens, store rooms, -shops where the neophytes were taught and -labored, and the <i>monjerio</i> or sleeping -apartment of the Indian widows and unmarried -girls of the Mission. Outside this -compound were the huts of the Indian converts, -arranged in streets and forming an -<span class="pb" id="Page_213">213</span> -orderly village of sometimes a couple of -thousand souls.<a class="fn" id="fr_98" href="#fn_98">[98]</a></p> -<p>South of Los Angeles, 125 miles, is San -Diego, reached either by rail, steamer, or -automobile. If the last way is chosen, going -and returning may be done over different -highways, one following the coast, the other -running further inland via Riverside. Both -roads are excellent. Forty miles before -reaching San Diego, you pass within calling -distance of Mission San Luis Rey (St. -Louis, the King)—4 miles east of Oceanside, -a railroad stop where conveyance may -be had for the Mission. San Luis Rey was -founded in 1798 and in its proportions -rivaled San Juan Capistrano. It is still an -imposing establishment, though restored -with rather too heavy a hand to suit the -artistic sense. The situation is charming, on -a knoll in the midst of a noble valley, emerald -green in winter and spring, the San Luis -Rey River flowing close by the Mission. A -community of hospitable Franciscan brothers -occupies the premises, and religious services -<span class="pb" id="Page_214">214</span> -are regularly held in the church. Twenty -miles further up the river (eastward), a -pleasant drive, is San Luis Rey’s sub-mission -or <i>asistencia</i>, San Antonio de Pala, -which no lover of the picturesque should -miss visiting. White-walled and red-tiled, -the quaint little church with a remarkable, -white bell-tower set not on it but beside it, -is one’s beau ideal of an old mission. The -setting, too, is satisfying. On every hand -are the mountains; a stone’s throw away -ripples the little river; and clustered close by -is a picturesque village of about 300 Indians, -to whom a resident priest, with rooms in the -Mission, is <i>cura</i>. Both Mission San Luis -Rey and this outpost of Pala were constructed -by Indians under the supervision of -the famous Padre Peyri, one of the most -forceful and devoted of the early Franciscans -in California. He gave the best of his -life to his wilderness flock, and years after -his departure, the Indians, in reverence of -his memory, would still offer up their prayers -before his picture as before a saint’s.</p> -<p>San Diego, a city claiming a population of -100,000, is spread over seaward-looking -<span class="pb" id="Page_215">215</span> -hills affording a delightful view of the land-locked -Bay of San Diego and the Pacific -Ocean going down to China. The mountains -of Old Mexico, too, only 20 miles away, -make a feature in the prospect. If you are -in any doubt what to do in San Diego, you -need only stroll around to the neighborhood -of the Plaza, and you will be shown. Street -cars, automobiles, “rubberneck” busses and -tourist agency windows are hung with -notices of places to see and trips to take, and -the streets are sprinkled with uniformed officials -emblazoned with gold lace, to give -you details. You may have a good time on -any of these jaunts, if you are good-natured -and like a bit of roughing it (for San Diego’s -vicinity has not as yet reached Los Angeles -County’s excellence in roads); but to give -you a start I would itemize the following -as not to be overlooked:</p> -<p>The exquisite gardens at Balboa Park -(where the Panama-California Exposition -of 1915-16 was held), affording in epitome -a charming object lesson in what California -gardens offer both in exotic and native -plants; the drive to and along the headland -<span class="pb" id="Page_216">216</span> -of Point Loma for the fine views; by ferry -across the bay to Coronado’s famous hotel -and beach; the ride by railway or automobile -to La Jolla (pronounced <i>lah ho´ yah</i>), a -pleasant little seaside resort with interesting -cliffs and surf-drenched rocks; by street car -to Old Town (where San Diego had its -beginning), to visit the Estudillo house—a -former Spanish home intelligently restored -and interesting as a bit of old-time architecture -with its tiled inner corridors about a -flowery patio. It is locally known as -“Ramona’s Marriage Place,” because it was -here, according to the novel, that the priest -lived who married Ramona and Alessandro. -On the hill back of Old Town once stood -Padre Junípero Serra’s first Mission in California, -founded in 1769; but it is all gone -now, the site being marked by a large cross -made of the original red tiles that once -littered the ground. It is but a short walk -worth taking both for the view and for the -sentiment of standing on the spot where -white civilization in California had its beginning. -Five miles up the valley that -stretches eastward at your feet is what is -<span class="pb" id="Page_217">217</span> -left of the second Mission (established in -1774). This historic building has been -sadly neglected and is but a ruined shell, -which only reverence for its past makes interesting. -Across the road from it is the -old olive orchard, believed to be the original -planting of the olive in the State.</p> -<p>San Diego’s back country offers many interesting -trips by auto-stage or private car, -the roads being as a rule good but with the -ups and downs of a hilly region. There are -several good hotels in the mountains at a distance -of 60 miles or so from San Diego, so -that the night may be spent here if desired. -Pine Hills, Mesa Grande, and Warner’s Hot -Springs may be mentioned as desirable objectives. -The trip by auto-stage or your -own car via Campo to El Centro or Calexico -(at the Mexican border) in the Imperial -Valley will prove an unforgettable experience. -The Imperial Valley is a depression -below sea-level in the Colorado Desert of -California, which after lying desolate for -ages has of late been made exceedingly productive -by diverting irrigation water to it -from the Colorado River. This trip had -<span class="pb" id="Page_218">218</span> -best be made between November and May, -as the desert heat in summer and early -autumn is intense. If you have your own -car and desire the experience of more desert, -return may be made around the Salton Sea -through the Coachella Valley (where dates -are now extensively grown), to Palm -Springs and Riverside.</p> -<p>While we have rambled along the coast -between Los Angeles and San Diego, our -eyes will often have been caught by the -sight of a long, low island well out to sea. -It is Santa Catalina, whose reputation as a -sea-angler’s paradise is world wide. It has -also a most delightful climate—its and San -Diego’s being perhaps the most equable of -any on the Coast. The marine gardens that -line the shores are also of wide fame, and -are made visible by boats with glass bottoms, -through which one looks down into the -transparent waters of another world where -waving kelps and sea mosses are the forests -and bright colored fish, sea anemones, jelly -fish, sea cucumbers and other queer creatures -are the inhabitants. The trip thither and -return may be accomplished from Los -<span class="pb" id="Page_219">219</span> -Angeles, between breakfast and evening dinner, -if you do not care to stay longer.</p> -<p>A hundred miles northwest of Los Angeles -lies Santa Barbara (a little city of 15,000), -rich in beautiful homes and flowery gardens. -It is delightfully situated with the ocean at -its feet and the Santa Inés Mountains at its -back, and may be reached from Los Angeles -either by train or by a picturesque motor -drive through valleys, over mountains and -beside the sea. Here is the best preserved of -all the existing Franciscan Missions in California—never -abandoned since its founding -in 1786, though now for many a year there -have been no Indians in its care. It is the -residence of a Franciscan community, and -the members in their long brown gowns and -white cord girdles may be seen any day at -their various tasks about the grounds—one -of which is the piloting of visitors through -the church.</p> -<p>Driving, horseback-riding, playing golf, -or simply sitting still and enjoying being -alive in the midst of fine scenery, are the -principal occupations of Santa Barbara’s -visitors. Among the longer drives should -<span class="pb" id="Page_220">220</span> -be mentioned the 40 miles to the Ojai Valley -by way of the lovely Casitas Passes, and the -45 miles across the Santa Inés Mountains to -the Mission Santa Inés in the valley of the -same name. The latter trip is made more -enjoyable if two days are taken to it, the -mountains being crossed by the San Marcos -Pass<a class="fn" id="fr_99" href="#fn_99">[99]</a> into the Valley of Santa Inés, famous -for its majestic oaks, and the night passed at -Los Olivos, 6 miles north of the Mission -Mattei’s Tavern at Los Olivos, is one of the -most comfortable country inns in California. -The return should be made by the Gaviota -Pass and the seaside road back to Santa -Barbara. The Mission of Santa Inés (which -is Spanish for Saint Agnes, whose eve gives -title to Keat’s immortal poem), is sight -enough to make the trip worth while—with -white walls, red-tiled roofs and flowery, corridored -front, in a valley rimmed about -with mountains. The Mission was long -abandoned and in ruins, but when the present -hospitable rector took charge some 15 years -ago, he began a careful restoration and with -<span class="pb" id="Page_221">221</span> -his own hands did much of the necessary -labor to put it as we see it today.<a class="fn" id="fr_100" href="#fn_100">[100]</a></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_222">222</div> -<h2 id="c17">A POSTSCRIPT ON CLIMATE, WAYS AND MEANS.</h2> -<p>While the climate of the Southwest is -characterized by abundant sunshine and a -low degree of relative humidity, it has -periods of considerable moisture precipitation. -In winter this takes the form of snow -in the northern and central portions of New -Mexico and Arizona (which lie at an elevation -of 5000 feet and more above sea level). -The snow, however, except upon the mountains, -disappears rather rapidly under the -hot sunshine of midday, so that the traveler -has a fair chance to sandwich his trips between -the storms. The mid-year precipitation -of rain is generally during July and -August, and throughout all parts of both -those States it descends usually in severe -electrical storms. These occur as a rule in -the afternoon and pass quickly, but while -<span class="pb" id="Page_223">223</span> -they last they are apt to be very, very wet. -They are the occasion of sky effects of cloud -and rainbow wonderful enough to compensate -for whatever discomfort the rain may -cause. In most sections the summer temperatures -are on the whole agreeable, but in -the much lower altitudes of parts of southern -Arizona and New Mexico, desert conditions -largely prevail, with a degree of heat in -summer that is trying to sight-seers.</p> -<p>In Southern California climatic conditions -differ greatly from those east of the Colorado -River. The coast year is divided -naturally into a dry season and a wet—the -latter normally extending from October or -November to April or May. From about -mid-spring to about mid-autumn no rainfall -whatever is to be expected, except in the -high mountains where there are occasional -thundershowers during summer. The winter -precipitation comes usually in intermittent -rain-storms of perhaps two or three days’ -duration (on the higher mountains these -come as snow), the intervening periods -generally characterized by pleasant, sunshiny -days and by nights with temperatures -<span class="pb" id="Page_224">224</span> -(particularly during December and January), -not infrequently as low as 30 degrees -Fahr. These minimums, however, rarely -hold over an hour or so; and curiously -enough, though they result in early morning -frosts, only the tenderest vegetation is killed, -the mercury rising rapidly after sunrise; so -that a great variety of garden flowers bloom, -and many vegetables mature, in the open -throughout the winter. A marked feature -of the California 24 hours is the wide difference -between the temperature at midday -and that at night, amounting to 35 or 40 -degrees F. This condition is fairly constant -and to be counted on daily. Similarly there -is a very marked difference between shade -and sun. A respectful regard for this fact -will save the traveler many a bad cold. In -summer, though the mercury may run well -up into the 90’s and sometimes even to over -100 degrees, the accompanying relative -humidity is low, so that it may be said that -as a rule one suffers less from heat on the -Pacific Coast than on the Atlantic at a dozen -degrees lower.</p> -<p>As regards clothing, a simple and safe rule -<span class="pb" id="Page_225">225</span> -for travelers in the Southwest is to bring -with them the same sort that they would wear -in New York, season for season. No part -of the Southwest is tropical, or even Floridian.</p> -<p>In the matter of expenses, Southern California -has had a wider experience in catering -to tourists than Arizona and New Mexico -and its facilities are now thoroughly systematized, -so that the average man may, if he -chooses, live there about as cheaply as at -home, or he may have the most luxurious accommodations -at the larger resorts on a basis -that only the very wealthy are familiar with. -European plan is that most in vogue in California -hotels, and the one most satisfactory -for the traveler, who, in his rambles, often -finds himself at meal-time far from his -hostelry. Unless you want to pay more, you -may calculate on $1.00 to $1.50 a night for a -comfortable room. In Arizona and New -Mexico the sparser settlement of the country -results in plainer accommodations, but the -rates are reasonable—room $1.00 a day and -up; American plan rate under normal conditions -about $3.00 a day. At many points -<span class="pb" id="Page_226">226</span> -in these two States the railways conduct -hotels for the accommodation of their -patrons, and they are, in my experience, uniformly -good.</p> -<p>The charge for saddle-horses varies -greatly. In out-of-the-way places where the -horses range for their feed, ponies may be -had for a dollar a day; but at the popular -resorts, the rent of a good mount is generally -in the neighborhood of $3.00 a day; it may -be even more. There is a similar irregularity -as to automobile rates. The latter are -largely influenced by the character of the -trip, as 50 miles on some roads would involve -greater expense to the owner than 100 miles -on others. A return of $15 or $20 a day -for a car is not infrequently considered satisfactory, -but harder trips naturally necessitate -a much higher charge. In bargaining -for transportation in the Southwest, where -it may be a day’s journey between stopping -places, it is well to remember that the lowest -priced is not always the cheapest. It pays -to pay for responsibility.</p> -<h2 class="eee">FOOTNOTES</h2> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>In 1883 New Mexico enterprisingly celebrated a so-called -300th anniversary of the founding of Santa Fe, basing that -function on the assumption that Antonio de Espejo, who -made an extended exploration of the province in 1582-3, -had planted a colony there. But there is no evidence whatever -that he did. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_2" href="#fr_2">[2]</a>The name commemorates the first Catholic Archbishop of -Santa Fe, John B. Lamy (1850-1885), an apostolic man much -beloved by the New Mexicans, to whom he appears to have -been a true spiritual father. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_3" href="#fr_3">[3]</a>General Lew Wallace, while governor of New Mexico, -wrote the last three books of “Ben Hur” in the old Palace. -“When in the city,” he informed a correspondent, as quoted -in Twitchell’s “Leading Facts of New Mexico History,” -“my habit was to shut myself night after night in the bedroom -back of the executive office proper, and write there till -after twelve o’clock.... The retirement, impenetrable -to incoming sound, was as profound as a cavern’s.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_4" href="#fr_4">[4]</a>An establishment of the Archaeological Institute of -America, which maintains schools also at Athens, Rome and -Jerusalem. The Santa Fe school has for years conducted -research work among the ancient remains in the Southwest, -Guatemala, and other parts of the American continent. In -connection with this, it holds annually a field summer school -open to visitors. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_5" href="#fr_5">[5]</a>The climate is part of Santa Fe’s cherished assets, the -atmosphere being characterized by great dryness. In summer -the heat is rarely oppressive, and the nights are normally -cool and refreshing. During July and August frequent -thunder showers, usually occurring in the afternoon, are to -be expected. In winter the mercury occasionally touches -zero, and there is more or less of wind and snow interfering -temporarily with the tourist’s outings; but the sunshine is -warm and the snow melts quickly. Autumn is ideal with -snappy nights and mornings and warm, brilliantly sunny -mid-days. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_6" href="#fr_6">[6]</a>The traveler should be warned that Indians as a rule -object to being photographed. Originally they had an idea -that ill fortune attended the operation, but the objection -nowadays is usually grounded on a natural distaste to being -made a show of, or the desire to make a little money. In -the latter case, they may succumb to the offer of a dime if -they cannot get 25 cents. It is only just and courteous to -ask permission of the subject (putting yourself in his place). -This is particularly needful at dances. Sometimes photographing -these is not tolerated; in other cases, a fee paid -to the governor secures a license for the day. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_7" href="#fr_7">[7]</a>About 10 miles beyond Tesuque is the pueblo of Nambé, -prettily situated under the shoulder of the fine, snowy peak, -Santa Fe Baldy, with the lovely Nambé Falls not far away. -The Indian population is barely 100 and the village is becoming -Mexicanized. Its saint’s day is October 4, when -the annual fiesta occurs. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_8" href="#fr_8">[8]</a>Population about 275. Its public fiesta is held August 12. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_9" href="#fr_9">[9]</a>James Mooney, “The Ghost-Dance Religion.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_10" href="#fr_10">[10]</a>You may, if you choose, do Taos from Santa Fe in -your own or a hired automobile via Tesuque and San Juan -pueblos, giving a day each way to the journey. Nambé, -San Ildefonso and Santa Clara may be included by slight -detours, but the time in that case must be stretched. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_11" href="#fr_11">[11]</a>Col. R. E. Twitchell quotes a tradition of the Taos people -to the effect that they came to their present home under -divine guidance, the site being indicated to them by the -drop of an eagle’s feather from the sky. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_12" href="#fr_12">[12]</a>The skulls of the Cliff Dwellers indicate them to have -been a “long-headed” race, while the modern Pueblos are -so only in part. It is likely, therefore, that the latter -Indians are of mixed stocks. There is, however, abundant -traditionary evidence that certain clans of the present-day -Pueblos are of Cliff descent. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_13" href="#fr_13">[13]</a>Pronounced <i>Pah´ha-ree-to</i>, and meaning <i>little bird</i>. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_14" href="#fr_14">[14]</a><i>Recto day loce Free-ho´les</i>, i. e., <i>brook of the beans</i>. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_15" href="#fr_15">[15]</a>From Santa Fe to the Tyuonyi and return may be made -by automobile in one strenuous day, including 2 or 3 hours -at the ruins. It is better, if possible, to board at the ranch -in the cañon for a few days, both for the purpose of examining -the ruins at leisure and making some of the interesting -side trips from that point; notably to the Stone Lions of -Cochití, unique examples of aboriginal carving on stone, -and to <i>La Cueva Pintada</i> (the Painted Cave) where are -some remarkable symbolic pictographs. Arrangements should -be made with the ranch in advance by telephone. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_16" href="#fr_16">[16]</a>An ecclesiastical order existent in rural New Mexico, -probably deriving from the Third Order of Saint Francis, -and distinguished by practices of self-flagellation for the -remission of sins. They are particularly active during Lent, -when they form processions, beat themselves with knotted -whips, strap bundles of cactus to their backs, and walk barefoot -or on their knees over flint-strewn ground, bearing -heavy crosses. Some of their exercises are held at the -crosses on these hill-top <i>calvarios</i> (calvaries). The Catholic -Church discourages their practices; but they possess considerable -political power in New Mexico and of recent -years the order has become regularly incorporated as a secret -fraternity under the State law. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_17" href="#fr_17">[17]</a>L. Bradford Prince, “Spanish Mission Churches of New -Mexico.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_18" href="#fr_18">[18]</a>The original form of the name is Alburquerque, given in -honor of a Duke of Alburquerque, who was viceroy of New -Spain at the time the place was founded as a <i>villa</i> in 1706. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_19" href="#fr_19">[19]</a>The name Isleta means “islet,” given, according to -Dr. F. W. Hodge, because formerly the Rio Grande and -an arroyo from the mountains islanded the pueblo between -them. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_20" href="#fr_20">[20]</a>The church authorities, it should be said, do not endorse -this tradition. Father Zepherin Engelhardt, the historian -of the Franciscans in the Southwest, tells me that there were -other missionaries named Padilla besides Padre Juan, and -the burial of one of these in the church at Isleta, may have -given color to the story. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_21" href="#fr_21">[21]</a>Pronounced <i>bair-na-lee´yo</i>. It is a diminutive of Bernal, -and the place was so named because settled by descendants -of Bernal Diaz, a soldier of Cortés and contemporary -chronicler of the conquest of Mexico. It was at Bernalillo -that De Vargas died, in 1704. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_22" href="#fr_22">[22]</a>Including a score or so descended from the Pecos tribe -who moved to Jemes in 1838 from Pecos Pueblo. This now -deserted pueblo (whose ruins have lately been systematically -excavated and whose fine old Mission church, visible from -the Santa Fe transcontinental trains, has undergone some -careful restoration) may be reached by conveyance from the -Valley Ranch near Glorieta station on the Santa Fe. In -Coronado’s time Pecos was the most populous town in the -country. It is called Cicuyé by the old chroniclers. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_23" href="#fr_23">[23]</a>The nearest railway station to these lakes is Estancia on -the New Mexican Central. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_24" href="#fr_24">[24]</a>Harrington, “The Ethno-geography of the Tewa Indians.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_25" href="#fr_25">[25]</a>Papers of the School of American Archaeology, No. 35. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_26" href="#fr_26">[26]</a>Popular tradition persistently associates gold-hoarding -with the Franciscan Missionaries throughout the Southwest, -ignoring the fact that the members of the Seraphic Order -were pledged to poverty, and had small interest in any -wealth except the unsearchable riches of Christ, to share -which with their humble Indian charges was their sole -mission in the wilderness. As for the New Mexico Indians, -they knew nothing of any mineral more precious than turquoise. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_27" href="#fr_27">[27]</a>Paul A. F. Walter, “The Cities That Died of Fear.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_28" href="#fr_28">[28]</a>Apropos of these ruined Missions, it is interesting to -know that the construction was undoubtedly the work of -women—house-building being one of the immemorial duties -and cherished privileges of Pueblo womankind. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_29" href="#fr_29">[29]</a>Paul A. P. Walter, “The Cities That Died of Fear.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_30" href="#fr_30">[30]</a>The Manzano range reaches an elevation of 10,600 feet -here. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_31" href="#fr_31">[31]</a>The formation is that known throughout New Mexico -as a <i>mesa</i> (Spanish for <i>table</i>). Such flat-topped hills—high -or low—have been brought into being by the washing away -in ancient times of the surrounding earth. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_32" href="#fr_32">[32]</a>New Mexico rural roads are in a certain Mark Tapleyian -sense ideal for motorists. Traversing unfenced plains, as -they often do, if they develop bad spots the motorist turns -aside and has little difficulty in scouting out a detour. After -a rain, however, they are gummy and slippery in adobe -country until the sun hardens the clay, which it does rather -quickly. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_33" href="#fr_33">[33]</a>Some of the Acomas in despair, threw themselves from -the cliffs and so died rather than surrender. A stirring -account of the storming of Acoma will be found in “The -Spanish Pioneers,” by Chas. F. Lummis. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_34" href="#fr_34">[34]</a>Remarkable for its light weight and ornamentation with -conventionalized leaf forms, birds, etc. Unfortunately the -education of the young Indians in Government schools is -causing a decline at all the pueblos in this purely American -art. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_35" href="#fr_35">[35]</a>The reader, curious to know what is on top of Katzimo, -is referred to an article, “Ascent of the Enchanted Mesa,” -by F. W. Hodge, in the Century Magazine, May, 1898. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_36" href="#fr_36">[36]</a>Strictly speaking Laguna is the mother pueblo in a -family of seven, the other half dozen being summer or -farming villages scattered about within a radius of a few -miles, so established to be near certain fertile lands. Some -of these, as Pojuate, are picturesque enough to warrant a -visit, if there is time. The population of all 7 is estimated -at about 1500. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_37" href="#fr_37">[37]</a>For a lively account of this authentic bit of history, the -reader is referred to the chapter “A Saint in Court” in -Mr. C. F. Lummis’s “Some Strange Corners of our -Country.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_38" href="#fr_38">[38]</a>Gallup is also a principal shipping point for Navajo -blankets. Travelers interested in this aboriginal handiwork -will here find large stocks to select from at the traders’ -stores. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_39" href="#fr_39">[39]</a>In the southwestern corner of Colorado. Here are -hundreds of prehistoric dwellings built in the cañon walls -representing probably the finest and best preserved architecture -of the unknown vanished races that once peopled our -Southwest. Government archaeologists, who have a particularly -warm regard for the Mesa Verde, have been making -careful excavations and restorations here for years, and -have mapped out a program that will consume many more. -The so-called Sun Temple, excavated in 1915, apparently a -communal edifice for the performance of religious dramas, -is the only one of its kind so far brought to light in the -United States. (See “Sun Temple of Mesa Verde National -Park,” by J. W. Fewkes. 1916, Gov’t Printing office.) A -public camp for tourists is maintained near the ruins during -the summer months, the high elevation (8500 feet) -rendering snow likely at other seasons. The nearest railway -station is Mancos, Col., on the D. & R. G., whence an auto-stage -runs to the Park camp. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_40" href="#fr_40">[40]</a>The most famous is the Shálako which occurs annually -about December 1, largely a night ceremony of great impressiveness. -The central figures are giant effigies representing -divinities, whose motive power is a Zuñi man hidden -within each. They enter from the plain at dusk, and to the -plain return the next morning, after a night of dancing -and feasting by the people. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_41" href="#fr_41">[41]</a>For some of the adventures of this famous couple, see -F. H. Cushing’s, “Zuñi Folk Tales.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_42" href="#fr_42">[42]</a>Reports of the Secretary of War, Senate Ex. Doc. 64, -First Session 31st Congress, 1850. A more illuminating account -of the Rock is given by Mr. Chas. F. Lummis in -“Some Strange Corners of Our Country.” An able supplement -to this is a paper by H. L. Broomall and H. E. Hoopes -in Proceedings of Delaware County Institute of Science, -Vol. I, No. 1, Media, Pa. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_43" href="#fr_43">[43]</a>There were poets among the Conquistadores. A printed -source relied upon by historians for authentic particulars -of Oñate’s tour of conquest is a rhymed chronicle by one -of his lieutenants, Don Gaspar de Villagrán. I believe New -Mexico is the only one of our States that can seriously -quote an epic poem in confirmation of its history. This New -Mexican Homer, as H. H. Bancroft calls him, printed his -book in 1610 at Alcalá. A reprint, published in Mexico a -few years ago, may be consulted in public libraries. The -original is one of the rarest of Americana. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_44" href="#fr_44">[44]</a>The Spaniards, whose avenging expedition Lujan’s cutting -upon El Morro records, never found Letrado’s body, -the Zuñis having made way with it. Earnestly desiring some -relic of the martyred friar, the soldiers were rewarded by -seeing in the air a cord which descended into their hands, -and this was divided among them. So says Vetancurt, old -chronicler of Franciscan martyrdom in New Mexico. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_45" href="#fr_45">[45]</a>Pronounced not as though it rhymed with <i>jelly</i>, but <i>chay</i> -(or less correctly <i>shay</i>) rhyming with <i>hay</i>. The word is a -Spanish way of recording the cañon’s Navajo name Tse-yi, -meaning “among the cliffs.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_46" href="#fr_46">[46]</a>To him, more than to any other man, is ascribed the -credit of saving the Navajo blanket industry from being -hopelessly vulgarized by ignorant and unscrupulous dealers. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_47" href="#fr_47">[47]</a>“Navaho Legends,” by Dr. Washington Matthews. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_48" href="#fr_48">[48]</a>Automobiles must be left at Chin Lee, where horses -for exploring the cañon may be had, if arranged for in -advance. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_49" href="#fr_49">[49]</a>Botanically, <i>Phragmites communis</i>, common throughout -the United States in damp places. It was through the hollow -stem of one of this species divinely enlarged, that the -Navajos and Pueblos came up in company from the underworld -into this present world of light. So at least runs -the Navajo Origin legend. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_50" href="#fr_50">[50]</a>The origin of the Navajo blanket is picturesque. At -the time of the Spanish conquest, the tribe was too insignificant -to be mentioned. It grew, however, rather -rapidly, and in raids upon the Pueblos took many of the -latter prisoners. From these (the Pueblos had long been -weavers of native cotton) they picked up the textile art; -and then stealing sheep from the Spaniards, they inaugurated -the weaving of the woolen blanket. Only the women -of the tribe are weavers, and Doctor Matthews states that -in his time, some 30 years ago, they did it largely as an -artistic recreation, just as the ladies of civilization do embroidery -or tatting. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_51" href="#fr_51">[51]</a>The place of emergence is fancied to have been in an -island in a small lake in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern -Colorado. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_52" href="#fr_52">[52]</a>Dr. W. Matthews, “Navaho Legends.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_53" href="#fr_53">[53]</a>The nearest railway station is McCarty’s, from which it -lies 12 miles to the northeast. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_54" href="#fr_54">[54]</a>The classic work on Navajo customs and myths is -“Navaho Legends,” by Dr. Washington Matthews—a U. S. -army surgeon who resided on their Reservation for years. -To a sympathetic attitude towards the race, he added the -practical qualification of a thorough knowledge of the language. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_55" href="#fr_55">[55]</a>Other routes from railroad points are from Winslow, -Ariz., 80 miles to the First Mesa or 75 miles to the Second -Mesa; from Cañon Diablo, Ariz., 75 miles to the Third -Mesa; from Holbrook, Ariz., 90 miles to the First Mesa. -The routes from Gallup and Holbrook possess the advantage -of avoiding the crossing of the Little Colorado River, -which becomes at times impassable from high water. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_56" href="#fr_56">[56]</a>A variant of this pueblo’s name is Shongópovi. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_57" href="#fr_57">[57]</a>The population of the Hopi pueblos is approximately: -Walpi, 250; Sichúmovi, 100; Hano, 150; Mishong-novi, 250; -Shipaulovi, 200; Shimapovi, 200; Oraibi, 300; Hótavila, 400; -Pacavi, 100. Another Hopi village (until recently considered -a summer or farming outpost of Oraibi) is Moenkopi, 40 miles -further west, with a population of about 200. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_58" href="#fr_58">[58]</a>Hopi, or Hopi-tuh, the name these Indians call themselves, -means “the peaceful,” a truthful enough appellation, -for they suffer much before resorting to force. By outsiders they -have often been called Moki, a term never -satisfactorily explained, except that it is considered uncomplimentary. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_59" href="#fr_59">[59]</a>The myth has to do with the arrival of the Flute clan -at Walpi bringing with them effective paraphernalia for -compelling rain to fall. The Walpians opposed the entrance -of the stranger, and this is symbolized in the ceremony -by lines of white corn meal successively sprinkled by -priests across the trail, as the procession advances towards -the village. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_60" href="#fr_60">[60]</a>The inhabitants of Hano are not pure Hopi, but descended -from Tewa Pueblos of the Rio Grande region, who -took up their residence here after 1680, invited by the Hopis -as a help against Apache depredation. Though these Tewas -have intermarried with their Hopi neighbors, they are -proud of their distinct ancestry, have preserved their own -language, and still practise some of their ancient religious -rites. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_61" href="#fr_61">[61]</a>Mr. F. L. Lewton investigated and described this species -as <i>Gossypium Hopi</i>. Smithsonian Institution, Misc. Coll. -Vol. 60, No. 6. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_62" href="#fr_62">[62]</a>This name is not Spanish or Indian for anything but -just a playful transmogrification of Adam Hanna, an old -time Arizonian who once lived there. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_63" href="#fr_63">[63]</a>U. S. Geological Survey’s Guide Book of the Western -United States, Part C. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_64" href="#fr_64">[64]</a>Report on the Petrified Forests of Arizona, Dept. of Interior, -1900. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_65" href="#fr_65">[65]</a>The cracking of the wood in recent years has lately required -the bolstering up of this interesting petrified bridge by -artificial support, so that venturesome visitors may still -enjoy walking across it. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_66" href="#fr_66">[66]</a>This is also readily reached from Holbrook station on -the Santa Fe railway, where conveyance may be obtained. -The distance from Holbrook is 18 miles. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_67" href="#fr_67">[67]</a>Automobile service may be had at Adamana for a number -of points of interest within reach. Among these are -the fine pueblo ruins of Kin-tyel (Wide House) 48 miles -to the northeast—a village believed to have been built by -certain clans of the Zuñis in their prehistoric migrations. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_68" href="#fr_68">[68]</a>The name is said to date from a certain Fourth of July, -some 60 years ago, when a party of emigrants camped on -the site of the future town and flew the Stars and Stripes -from a pole erected in honor of the National holiday. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_69" href="#fr_69">[69]</a>Those of Walnut Cañon, about 10 miles southeast of -Flagstaff, are especially easy of access. For particulars concerning -the cinder-cone ruins (9 miles northeast of Flagstaff -and also 12 miles east) the student is referred to Dr. J. W. -Fewkes’s descriptions in the 22nd Annual Report, Bureau -of American Ethnology, pp. 35-39. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_70" href="#fr_70">[70]</a>The name commemorates “Old” Bill Williams, a noted -frontiersman of the 1830’s and ’40’s, identified with Fremont’s -fourth and ill-fated expedition, which Williams undertook -to guide across the Rockies and failed because of -the snow and cold. A tributary of the Colorado River also -bears his name. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_71" href="#fr_71">[71]</a>About 10 miles eastwardly; a remarkable little volcanic -mountain with a cratered summit, the glowing red rock of -which it is made up giving the upper part of the mountain -the appearance at any time of day of being illumined by the -setting sun. It may be made the objective of a pleasant -half day’s trip from Flagstaff. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_72" href="#fr_72">[72]</a>“The Hopi,” Walter Hough. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_73" href="#fr_73">[73]</a>H. H. Robinson, “The San Francisco Volcanic Field,” -Washington, 1913. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_74" href="#fr_74">[74]</a>The varied tints of the Painted Desert are due to the -coloration of the rocks and clays which form its surface. -Some additional tone is given at times by the vegetation -that springs up after rainfall. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_75" href="#fr_75">[75]</a>These two together with a third called Inscription -House Ruin (20 miles west of Betata Kin and so named -because of certain Spanish inscriptions upon it dated 1661) -form what is called the Navajo National Monument. At -Kayenta, a post office and trading post of Messrs. Wetherill -and Colville some 20 miles southeast of Betata Kin, pack -outfits and guide may be secured to visit these ruins. Dr. -J. W. Fewkes’s description, Bulletin 50, Bureau of American -Ethnology, should be consulted for details. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_76" href="#fr_76">[76]</a>The Red Rock country is also reached via Cornville and -Sedona by conveyance from Clarkdale on the Verde Valley -branch of the Santa Fe Railway, or from Jerome on the -United Verde railroad. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_77" href="#fr_77">[77]</a>The name commemorates that lieutenant of Coronado’s, -Don Pedro de Tovar, who in 1540 visited the Hopi villages, -where he learned of the existence of the Grand Cañon, and -carried the news of it back to Coronado at Zuñi. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_78" href="#fr_78">[78]</a>The exact spot of this first view is not known—the point -that today bears the name of Cárdenas being a random -guess. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_79" href="#fr_79">[79]</a>The first complete exploration of the river cañons was -made in 1869, by an expedition in charge of Major J. W. -Powell, the noted ethnologist and geologist. He had boats -especially built for the trip. It was an undertaking of -supreme danger, forming, as Mr. F. S. Dellenbaugh says -in his interesting “Romance of the Colorado River,” “one -of the distinguished feats of history;” for not one of the -pioneering party could have any conception of what physical -obstacles were before them when the boats set out at the -Cañon’s head into the unknown. Powell was a Civil War -veteran and had but one hand. He made a second and more -leisurely trip in 1871-72. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_80" href="#fr_80">[80]</a>Bright Angel is the name given by the first Powell expedition -to a creek entering the river here from the north; -its bright, clear waters being in striking contrast to a turbid -little tributary discovered not long before, which the men -had dubbed “Dirty Devil Creek.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_81" href="#fr_81">[81]</a>It is not a true salmon. Dr. David Starr Jordan identifies -it as <i>Ptychocheilus lucius</i>, and it is really a huge chub -or minnow. There is a record of one caught weighing 80 -pounds; more usual are specimens of 10 and 12 pounds. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_82" href="#fr_82">[82]</a>An interesting trip with the Grand Cañon as a base -is to Cataract Cañon, a side gorge of the Grand Cañon -about 40 miles west of El Tovar. The trip may be made by -wagon to the head of the trail leading down into an arm -of Cataract Cañon, but the final lap—about 15 miles—must -be on horseback or afoot. At the bottom is the reservation -of a small tribe of Indians—the Havasupais—occupying a -fertile, narrow valley hedged in by high cliffs of red limestone. -There are numerous springs and the water is used -to irrigate the fields and peach orchards of the tribe. These -Indians are much Americanized, and live under the paternal -care of a local Government agency. A feature of the Cañon -is the number of fine water falls. To one exquisite one, -called Bridal Veil, it would be hard to find anywhere a -mate. A camping trip eastward from Grand View along -the rim to the Little Colorado Junction may also be made -a pleasant experience, rendered particularly glorious by the -desert views. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_83" href="#fr_83">[83]</a>Jerome is reached by a little railway from Jerome Junction -on the Ash Fork and Phoenix division of the Santa Fe; -Clarkdale, by a branch from Cedar Glade on the same -division. The Clarkdale branch threads for much of the -way the picturesque cañon of the upper Verde River. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_84" href="#fr_84">[84]</a>There is, however, no evidence of volcanic action in the -vicinity; so the depression—deep as it is—is doubtless the -result of solvent or erosive action of the waters of the -Well. (J. W. Fewkes, 17th Ann. Rep. Bureau of American -Ethnology.) -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_85" href="#fr_85">[85]</a>17th Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_86" href="#fr_86">[86]</a>The climate is noted for its mildness and salubrity. -There is a local saying, “If a man wants to die in San -Antonio, he must go somewhere else!” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_87" href="#fr_87">[87]</a>Pronounced <i>ah´la-mo</i>, Spanish for cottonwood. The name -was probably given from cottonwoods growing near by. The -Church of the Alamo was erected in 1744. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_88" href="#fr_88">[88]</a>The reader, curious for details of the San Antonio -Missions, as well as items of local secular history, is referred -to Wm. Corner’s “San Antonio de Béxar.” He will -also be interested in a picturesque sketch of San Antonio -as it was nearly half a century ago, by the Southern poet -Sidney Lanier, who in quest of health passed the winter -of 1872-3 here, and here made his resolve, faithfully carried -out, to devote the remainder of his life to music and poetry. -The sketch is printed in a collection of Lanier’s essays -entitled “Retrospects and Prospects.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_89" href="#fr_89">[89]</a>These three Missions were originally located about 15 -years earlier on sites some distance from San Antonio. -Scarcity of irrigation water is given as one important cause -of their removal in 1731 to the banks of the San Antonio -River. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_90" href="#fr_90">[90]</a>Silver and gold gave it its start. Its name is believed -to be due to a huge bowlder or globe of silver weighing -300 pounds, found there in 1876. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_91" href="#fr_91">[91]</a>Pronounced <i>Too-son´</i>. It is the name applied by the -neighboring Papago Indians to a mountain at the west of -the present town, and according to Dr. W. J. McGee, means -“black base.” Tucson’s first appearance in history seems -to have been in 1763, as an Indian village whose spiritual -needs were served by the missionaries of San Xavier del -Bac. In 1776 a Spanish presídio was established here, and -the little pueblo became San Agustin de Tucson. An -edifice, originally a church dedicated to St. Augustine but -now a lodging house, still faces the old Spanish plaza of -the town. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_92" href="#fr_92">[92]</a>“An escutcheon with a white ground filed in with a -twisted cord ... and a cross on which are nailed one -arm of Our Saviour and one of St. Francis, representing the -union of the disciple and the divine Master in charity and -love. The arm of our Lord is bare while that of St. -Francis is covered.” (Salpointe, “Soldiers of the Cross.”) -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_93" href="#fr_93">[93]</a>Engelhardt, “The Franciscans in Arizona.” The diaries -of Garcés are marked by naïve charm and simplicity. One, -translated and elaborately annotated by the late Dr. Elliott -Coues, has been published under the title “On the Trail of -a Spanish Pioneer.” -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_94" href="#fr_94">[94]</a>It stands on the west (opposite) side of the river from -the railway, a fact that may be fraught with trouble; for -the river, which is ordinarily insignificant enough to be -crossed on a plank, is capable of becoming after storms a -raging flood 200 feet wide and 20 deep. Under such circumstances, -it is the part of wisdom to motor from Tucson. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_95" href="#fr_95">[95]</a>In the sanctuary were interred, and I suppose still repose, -the bones of the Franciscan Padres Baltasar Carillo -and Narciso Gutierres, whom Archbishop Salpointe in his -“Soldiers of the Cross,” credits with being the supervising -builders both of the present church of Tumacácori and that -of San Xavier. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_96" href="#fr_96">[96]</a>Dr. F. W. Fewkes gives this and several other folk tales -concerning the Casa Grande in the 28th Report of the -Bureau of American Ethnology, which should be consulted -for an exhaustive account of the ruin and the Government -excavation work. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_97" href="#fr_97">[97]</a>The following all-day trips are especially recommended: -<p class="bq">1. To Redlands, in the San Bernardino foothills, one -of the most beautiful of California towns, and Riverside -with its famous Mission Inn (about 145 miles the round, -including the ascent of Mt. Roubidoux), traversing a -beautiful orange and lemon district and paralleling the -stately Sierra Madre, whose highest peaks are snow-capped -in winter. (If there is time for another day this -trip may be extended in winter or spring to include the -run to Palm Springs in the desert, 50 miles beyond -Redlands. This is particularly enjoyable in March and -April when the wild flowers of the desert are in bloom—a -surprising and lovely sight. There is a good hotel at -Palm Springs, but it is safest to arrange ahead for accommodations).</p> -<p class="bq">2. To Mission San Juan Capistrano (about 120 miles -the round), one of the most interesting and poetic in -its half ruin of the old Franciscan California establishments. -The road traverses the rich agricultural districts -tributary to Whittier and Santa Ana, and a portion of -the extensive Irvine, or San Joaquin Ranch (about -100,000 acres). A detour may be made to include Laguna -and Arch Beaches and a run (over an inferior road) of -ten miles overlooking a picturesque rock-bound bit of -Pacific surf.</p> -<p class="bq">3. To Mount Wilson Peak (50 miles the round, but -includes 9 miles of tortuous mountain road with a grade -as high as 23% in one or two spots). On this peak -(6000 feet above the sea) are situated the buildings of -the Carnegie Solar Observatory, which, however, are not -open to the public. The views from the peak are very -beautiful. The trip can also be made by public auto-stage. -There is a hotel at the summit.</p> -<p class="bq">4. To Camulos Rancho (95 miles the round), a good -example of the old style Spanish-California ranch, -utilized by Mrs. Jackson as the scene of part of her -novel “Ramona.” It is situated in the Santa Clara -Valley of the South. A stop may be made en route at -Mission San Fernando. The return trip may be made -by way of Topanga Cañon and the seaside town of Santa -Monica, if an extra hour can be given to it.</p> -<p class="fncont">Half-day drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles are too -numerous to be itemized here, but the following may be -mentioned:</p> -<p class="bq">1. To the Mission San Fernando by way of Hollywood -(famous for its beautiful homes, and latterly as the -capital of “Movie-land”) and through the Cahuenga -Pass, returning via the Topanga Cañon, the beach and -Santa Monica.</p> -<p class="bq">2. To Sunland via Alhambra and Santa Anita Avenue -to the Foothill Boulevard, Altadena, and La Cañada, -returning via Roscoe and Tropico.</p> -<p class="bq">3. To Mission San Gabriel, returning by way of -Pasadena’s famous residential districts of Oak Knoll and -Orange Grove Boulevard, thence over the Arroyo Seco -Bridge and past the Annandale Country Club, back to -the city.</p> -<p class="bq">4. To Whittier and the citrus-fruit belt of the San -Gabriel Valley via either Turnbull or Brea Cañons (the -latter picturesque with oil derricks) returning by the -Valley Boulevard.</p> -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_98" href="#fr_98">[98]</a>“The California Padres and their Missions,” by C. F. -Saunders and J. S. Chase. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_99" href="#fr_99">[99]</a>The San Marcos road has some stiff grades and should -only be traveled by experienced drivers. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_100" href="#fr_100">[100]</a>For a more detailed account of the tourist attractions in -Southern California, reference is made to the author’s -“Finding the Worth While in California.” -</div> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_227">227</div> -<h2 id="c18">INDEX</h2> -<p class="center"><b><a class="ab" href="#index_A">A</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_B">B</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_C">C</a> <span class="ab">D</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_E">E</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_F">F</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_G">G</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_H">H</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_I">I</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_J">J</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_K">K</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_L">L</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_M">M</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_N">N</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_O">O</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_P">P</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_Q">Q</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_R">R</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_S">S</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_T">T</a> <span class="ab">U</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_V">V</a> <a class="ab" href="#index_W">W</a> <span class="ab">X</span> <span class="ab">Y</span> <a class="ab" href="#index_Z">Z</a></b></p> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_A"><b>A</b></dt> -<dt>Abó, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dt> -<dt>Acevedo, Fr. Francisco, de, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dt> -<dt>Acoma Pueblo, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.</dt> -<dt>Adamana, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</dt> -<dt>Alamo, The, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</dt> -<dt>Albuquerque, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</dt> -<dt>Anza, Juan Bautista, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt> -<dt>Apache Trail, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</dt> -<dt>Arch Beach, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</dt> -<dt>Awátobi, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_B"><b>B</b></dt> -<dt>Bácavi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</dt> -<dt>Bandelier, A. F., <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</dt> -<dt>Beaver Creek, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dt> -<dt>Bernalillo, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt> -<dt>Betata Kin Ruins, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt> -<dt>Bill Williams, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</dt> -<dt>Bitter Man, Legend of, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt> -<dt>Bowie, James, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</dt> -<dt>Buckman, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_C"><b>C</b></dt> -<dt>Camp Verde, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</dt> -<dt>Camulos Rancho, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</dt> -<dt>Cañon de Chelly, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</dt> -<dt>Cañon Diablo, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt> -<dt>Carson, Kit, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</dt> -<dt>Casa Grande Ruins, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</dt> -<dt>Chaco Cañon, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</dt> -<dt>Chímayo, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</dt> -<dt>Chin Lee, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</dt> -<dt>Clarkdale, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</dt> -<dt>Cliff Dwellings, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt> -<dt>Coachella Valley, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt> -<dt>Cochití Pueblo, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</dt> -<dt>Colorado Desert, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt> -<dt>Crockett, Davy, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</dt> -<dt>Cueva Pintada, La, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_E"><b>E</b></dt> -<dt>El Cabezon, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</dt> -<dt>Española, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dt> -<dt>Estancia Valley, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_F"><b>F</b></dt> -<dt>Flagstaff, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</dt> -<dt>Fort Defiance, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</dt> -<dt>Frijoles Cañon, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_G"><b>G</b></dt> -<dt>Gallup, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</dt> -<dt>Ganado, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</dt> -<dt>Garcés, Fr. Francisco, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_228">228</dt> -<dt>Globe, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</dt> -<dt>Gran Quivira, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dt> -<dt>Grand Cañon, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_H"><b>H</b></dt> -<dt>Hano Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</dt> -<dt>Háwikuh, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</dt> -<dt>Holbrook, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt> -<dt>Hollywood, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</dt> -<dt>Hosta Butte, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dt> -<dt>Hopi Mesas, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt>Hótavila Pueblo, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_I"><b>I</b></dt> -<dt>Imperial Valley, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt> -<dt>Inscription House Ruin, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt> -<dt>Inscription Rock, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</dt> -<dt>Isleta Pueblo, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_J"><b>J</b></dt> -<dt>Jemes Pueblo, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</dt> -<dt>Jemes Springs, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</dt> -<dt>Jerome, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_K"><b>K</b></dt> -<dt>Kayenta, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt> -<dt>Keam’s Cañon, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt> -<dt>Kearney, Stephen, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</dt> -<dt>Keet-Seel Ruins, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt> -<dt>Kino, Fr. Eusebio, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dt> -<dt>Kin-tyel Ruins, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_L"><b>L</b></dt> -<dt>Laguna Beach, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</dt> -<dt>Laguna Pueblo, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</dt> -<dt>La Jolla, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</dt> -<dt>Lake, The Accursed, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</dt> -<dt>Lamy, Bishop, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</dt> -<dt>Lanier, Sidney, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</dt> -<dt>Letrado, Padre, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</dt> -<dt>Lions of Cochití, Stone, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dt> -<dt>Llana, Fr. Gerónimo de la, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</dt> -<dt>Los Angeles, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</dt> -<dt>Los Olivos, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_M"><b>M</b></dt> -<dt>Manzano, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</dt> -<dt>McCarty’s, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mesa Encantada, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mesa Grande, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mesa Verde National Park, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mishóngnovi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mission Churches:</dt> -<dd>Arizona.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San José de Tumacácori, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Xavier del Bac, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</dd> -<dd>California.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Antonio de Pala, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Diego, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Fernando, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</dd> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_229">229</dt> -<dd class="ddt">San Gabriel, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Juan Capistrano, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Luis Rey, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Miguel, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">Santa Barbara, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">Santa Inés, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</dd> -<dd>New Mexico.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">Pecos, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Augustin, Isleta, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Estéban, Acoma, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Felipe, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San José, Laguna, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">Santa Cruz, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</dd> -<dd>Texas.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">Purísima Concepcion, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Fernando, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Francisco de la Espada, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San José de Aguayo, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</dd> -<dd class="ddt">San Juan Capistrano, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</dd> -<dt>Moenkopi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</dt> -<dt>Montezuma’s Castle, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</dt> -<dt>Montezuma’s Well, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</dt> -<dt>Morro, El, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mount Lowe, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mount Taylor, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mount Wilson, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</dt> -<dt>Mountainair, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_N"><b>N</b></dt> -<dt>Nambé Pueblo, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</dt> -<dt>National Monuments:</dt> -<dd>Bandelier, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dd> -<dd>Casa Grande, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</dd> -<dd>El Morro, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</dd> -<dd>Gran Quivira, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dd> -<dd>Grand Cañon, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dd> -<dd>Montezuma Castle, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dd> -<dd>Navajo, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dd> -<dd>Petrified Forests of Arizona, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dd> -<dd>Tonto, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dd> -<dd>Tumacácori, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</dd> -<dt>Navajo blanket, origin of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</dt> -<dt>Navajo Indian Reservation, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</dt> -<dt>Navajo Sacred Mountains, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_O"><b>O</b></dt> -<dt>Oak Creek Cañon, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</dt> -<dt>Ojai Valley, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</dt> -<dt>Ojo Caliente, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</dt> -<dt>Ojo del Gigante, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</dt> -<dt>Oñate, Juan de, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</dt> -<dt>Oraibi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt>Otowi, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_P"><b>P</b></dt> -<dt>Padre Padilla’s Coffin, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</dt> -<dt>Painted Desert, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</dt> -<dt>Painted Rocks of Abó, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pajarito Park, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_230">230</dt> -<dt>Pala, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</dt> -<dt>Palm Springs, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pasadena, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pecos National Forest, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pecos Pueblo, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pelado Peak, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</dt> -<dt>Penitentes, Order of, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</dt> -<dt>Petrified Forest of Arizona, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</dt> -<dt>Phoenix, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</dt> -<dt>Photographing Indians, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pimería Alta, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</dt> -<dt>Popé, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pueblo Bonito, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</dt> -<dt>Pueblo Indians, characteristics, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</dt> -<dt>Puyé, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Q"><b>Q</b></dt> -<dt>Quaraí, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_R"><b>R</b></dt> -<dt>Rainbow Forest, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt> -<dt>Ramah, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</dt> -<dt>Ramirez, Fr. Juan, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</dt> -<dt>Redlands, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dt> -<dt>Red Rock Country, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</dt> -<dt>Rito de los Frijoles, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dt> -<dt>Riverside, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt> -<dt>Roosevelt Dam, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_S"><b>S</b></dt> -<dt>San Antonio, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Diego, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Felipe Pueblo, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Francisco Mountain, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Francisco Peaks, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Gabriel Mission, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Ildefonso Pueblo, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Juan Pueblo, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Matéo Mountain, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</dt> -<dt>San Xavier del Bac Mission, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</dt> -<dt>Sandía Pueblo, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Ana Pueblo, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Barbara, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Catalina Island, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Clara Pueblo, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Cruz Valley, N. M., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Cruz Valley, Ariz., <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Cruz de la Canada, N. M., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Fe, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Inés Mission, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santa Mónica, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santo Domingo Pueblo, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santo Niño, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt> -<dt>Santuario, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</dt> -<dt>Shálako Dance, Zuñi, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</dt> -<dt>Shimópovi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt>Shípapu, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</dt> -<dt>Shipaúlovi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt>Shongópovi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt>Sia Pueblo, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</dt> -<dt>Sichúmovi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_231">231</dt> -<dt>Simpson, Lieut., J. H., <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</dt> -<dt>Stages, Modern Auto-, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</dt> -<dt>Steamboat Rock, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</dt> -<dt>St. Michael’s Mission, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_T"><b>T</b></dt> -<dt>Tabirá, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tajique, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</dt> -<dt>Taos, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tchrega, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tesuque Pueblo, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tewa Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</dt> -<dt>Topanga Cañon, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</dt> -<dt>Towa-yálleni, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</dt> -<dt>Truchas Peaks, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tsankawi, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tuba, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tubac, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tucson, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tumacácori, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</dt> -<dt>Tyuonyi, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_V"><b>V</b></dt> -<dt>Vargas, Diego de, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</dt> -<dt>Verde Valley, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_W"><b>W</b></dt> -<dt>Wallace, Lew, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</dt> -<dt>Walnut Cañon, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</dt> -<dt>Walpi Pueblo, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</dt> -<dt>Warner’s Hot Springs, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt> -<dt>Whittier, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</dt> -<dt>Wide House Ruins, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt> -<dt>Winslow, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Z"><b>Z</b></dt> -<dt>Zárate, Fr. Ascencio de, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</dt> -<dt>Zuñi, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</dt> -</dl> -<div class="box"> -<h2 class="eee">Glacier National Park</h2> -<p>Every day brings a new -experience—crowded with -scenic delight—at Glacier -National Park—Uncle Sam’s -playground in the Montana -Rockies.</p> -<p>Maybe you are going over the “Notch”—sky-high -Gunsight Pass—on a surefooted -horse—a real mountaineer experience. -Perhaps you’re gliding amid -tremendous scenes over a modern -motor trail through the thick of the -wilds. Another day, you pow-wow -with the picturesque Blackfeet Indians.</p> -<p>Send for descriptive literature with maps and -photographic views of the Park’s beauty spots -and definite information as to cost. Write</p> -<p class="center">C. E. STONE -<br />Passenger Traffic Manager -<br />ST. PAUL, MINN.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pic016.jpg" alt="Great Northern Railway" width="308" height="247" /> -</div> -</div> -<h2 class="eee">Outwest Outings -<br /><span class="small">“Off the beaten path”<br />New Mexico and Arizona</span></h2> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Rainbow Bridge</dt> -<dt>Grand Canyon of Arizona</dt> -<dt>Petrified Forest</dt> -<dt>Painted Desert</dt> -<dt>Ancient Indian Pueblos</dt> -<dt>Prehistoric Cliff Ruins</dt> -<dt>New Mexico Rockies</dt> -<dt>Santa Fe</dt></dl> -<p class="center">Ask for new booklet -<br />“Off the beaten Path” -<br />of Maps and Pictures -<br />W. J. Black, Pass. Traf. Mgr. -<br />AT&SF Ry—1118 Ry. Exch. Chi·</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pic021.jpg" alt="" width="468" height="801" /> -</div> -<h2 class="eee">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul><li>Some palpable typographical errors were corrected.</li> -<li>Copyright and publisher’s information was included from the printed copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication.</li></ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Finding the Worth While in the -Southwest, by Charles Francis Saunders - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FINDING WORTH WHILE SOUTHWEST *** - -***** This file should be named 50933-h.htm or 50933-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/9/3/50933/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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