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- The Project Gutenberg eBook of Colour in the Flower Garden, by Gertrude Jekyll.
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-<pre>
-
-Project Gutenberg's Colour in the flower garden, by Gertrude Jekyll
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Colour in the flower garden
-
-Author: Gertrude Jekyll
-
-Release Date: December 24, 2015 [EBook #50764]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLOUR IN THE FLOWER GARDEN ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Shaun Pinder, Les Galloway and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3>
-
-<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</p>
-
-<p>Variations in hyphenation have been standardised, but other variations in spelling,
-punctuation and accents remain as in the original.</p>
-
-<p>The index entry for Solomon's seal has been corrected from 53, 37 to 25, 33.</p>
-
-<p> The sequence of the table of illustrations has been altered by
-exchanging A SEPTEMBER GREY GARDEN and THE GREY BORDERS: GYPSOPHILA,
-ECHINOPS, &amp;C. to correspond with the sequence of the illustrations in
-the book.</p>
-
-<p>The images of garden plans link to larger, higher definition, images on readers which support this facility.</p>
-
-</div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p class="half-title"><i>COLOUR IN THE<br />
-FLOWER GARDEN</i></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="FWHITELILIES">
-<img src="images/i_004.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>WHITE LILIES.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><i><span class="smcap"><big>The "Country Life"<br />
-Library</big></span></i></p>
-
-
-<h1>COLOUR IN THE<br />
-FLOWER GARDEN</h1>
-
-
-<p class="center"><small>BY</small><br />
-GERTRUDE JEKYLL</p>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter" >
-<img src="images/title_page.jpg" alt="Bunch of flowers." />
-</div>
-
-
-<p class="center"><small>PUBLISHED BY</small></p>
-
-
-<div class="center small">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="center">"COUNTRY LIFE," <span class="smcap">Ltd.</span></td>
-<td> &nbsp; </td>
-<td align="center">GEORGE NEWNES, <span class="smcap">Ltd.</span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td align="center">20, TAVISTOCK STREET</td>
-<td></td>
-<td align="center">7-12, SOUTHAMPTON ST.</td></tr>
-
-<tr><td align="center">COVENT GARDEN, W.C.</td>
-<td></td>
-<td align="center">COVENT GARDEN, W.C.</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-
-<p class="center xs">1908</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">v</span></p>
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-
-<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2>
-
-
-<p>To plant and maintain a flower-border, <em>with a good
-scheme for colour</em>, is by no means the easy thing that is
-commonly supposed.</p>
-
-<p>I believe that the only way in which it can be made
-successful is to devote certain borders to certain times
-of year; each border or garden region to be bright
-for from one to three months.</p>
-
-<p>Nothing seems to me more unsatisfactory than the
-border that in spring shows a few patches of flowering
-bulbs in ground otherwise looking empty, or with tufts
-of herbaceous plants just coming through. Then the
-bulbs die down, and their place is wanted for something
-that comes later. Either the ground will then show
-bare patches, or the place of the bulbs will be forgotten
-and they will be cruelly stabbed by fork or trowel
-when it is wished to put something in the apparently
-empty space.</p>
-
-<p>For many years I have been working at these
-problems in my own garden, and having come to
-certain conclusions, can venture to put them forth
-with some confidence. I may mention that from the
-nature of the ground, in its original state partly wooded
-and partly bare field, and from its having been brought
-into cultivation and some sort of shape before it was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">vi</span>
-known where the house now upon it would exactly
-stand, the garden has less general unity of design
-than I should have wished. The position and general
-form of its various portions were accepted mainly
-according to their natural conditions, so that the garden
-ground, though but of small extent, falls into different
-regions, with a general, but not altogether definite,
-cohesion.</p>
-
-<p>I am strongly of opinion that the possession of a
-quantity of plants, however good the plants may be
-themselves and however ample their number, does
-not make a garden; it only makes a <em>collection</em>. Having
-got the plants, the great thing is to use them with
-careful selection and definite intention. Merely having
-them, or having them planted unassorted in garden
-spaces, is only like having a box of paints from the
-best colourman, or, to go one step further, it is like
-having portions of these paints set out upon a palette.
-This does not constitute a picture; and it seems to
-me that the duty we owe to our gardens and to our
-own bettering in our gardens is so to use the plants
-that they shall form beautiful pictures; and that,
-while delighting our eyes, they should be always
-training those eyes to a more exalted criticism; to a
-state of mind and artistic conscience that will not
-tolerate bad or careless combination or any sort of
-misuse of plants, but in which it becomes a point of
-honour to be always striving for the best.</p>
-
-<p>It is just in the way it is done that lies the whole
-difference between commonplace gardening and gardening
-that may rightly claim to rank as a fine art.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">vii</span>
-Given the same space of ground and the same material,
-they may either be fashioned into a dream of beauty,
-a place of perfect rest and refreshment of mind and
-body&mdash;a series of soul-satisfying pictures&mdash;a treasure
-of well-set jewels; or they may be so misused that
-everything is jarring and displeasing. To learn how
-to perceive the difference and how to do right is to
-apprehend gardening as a fine art. In practice it is
-to place every plant or group of plants with such
-thoughtful care and definite intention that they shall
-form a part of a harmonious whole, and that successive
-portions, or in some cases even single details, shall
-show a series of pictures. It is so to regulate the trees
-and undergrowth of the wood that their lines and
-masses come into beautiful form and harmonious
-proportion; it is to be always watching, noting and
-doing, and putting oneself meanwhile into closest
-acquaintance and sympathy with the growing things.</p>
-
-<p>In this spirit, the garden and woodland, such as
-they are, have been formed. There have been many
-failures, but, every now and then, I am encouraged
-and rewarded by a certain measure of success. Yet,
-as the critical faculty becomes keener, so does the
-standard of aim rise higher; and, year by year, the
-desired point seems always to elude attainment.</p>
-
-<p>But, as I may perhaps have taken more trouble in
-working out certain problems, and given more thought
-to methods of arranging growing flowers, especially
-in ways of colour-combination, than amateurs in
-general, I have thought that it may be helpful to some
-of them to describe as well as I can by word, and to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span>
-show by plan and picture, what I have tried to do,
-and to point out where I have succeeded and where
-I have failed.</p>
-
-<p>I must ask my kind readers not to take it amiss if I
-mention here that I cannot undertake to show it
-them on the spot. I am a solitary worker; I am
-growing old and tired, and suffer from very bad and
-painful sight. My garden is my workshop, my private
-study and place of rest. For the sake of health and
-reasonable enjoyment of life it is necessary to keep it
-quite private, and to refuse the many applications of
-those who offer it visits. My oldest friends can now
-only be admitted. So I ask my readers to spare me
-the painful task of writing long letters of excuse and
-explanation; a task that has come upon me almost
-daily of late years in the summer months, that has
-sorely tried my weak and painful eyes, and has added
-much to the difficulty of getting through an already
-over-large correspondence.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">ix</span></p>
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-
-<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="center small">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><span class="xs">PAGE</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><a href="#INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION</a></td><td align="right">v</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">A MARCH STUDY AND THE BORDER OF EARLY BULBS</td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE WOOD</td><td align="right">8</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE SPRING GARDEN</td><td align="right">21</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER</td><td align="right">32</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE JUNE GARDEN</td><td align="right">39</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE MAIN HARDY FLOWER BORDER</td><td align="right">49</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY</td><td align="right">58<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">x</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST</td><td align="right">65</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">THE FLOWER BORDERS IN SEPTEMBER</td><td align="right">78</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES</td><td align="right">83</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING</td><td align="right">89</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">CLIMBING PLANTS</td><td align="right">106</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">GROUPING OF PLANTS IN POTS</td><td align="right">112</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">SOME GARDEN PICTURES</td><td align="right">121</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN</td><td align="right">127</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">PLANTING FOR WINTER COLOUR</td><td align="right">133</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><span class="medium"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">FORM IN PLANTING</td><td align="right">138</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="medium">INDEX</span></td><td align="right">143</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">xi</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#FWHITELILIES">White Lilies</a></span></td><td align="right"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
-<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><span class="xs"><i>To face page</i></span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#IRISSTYLOSA">Iris Stylosa</a></span></td><td align="right">4</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#MAGNOLIACONSPICUA">Magnolia Conspicua</a></span></td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#MAGNOLIASTELLATA">Magnolia Stellata</a></span></td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#FERNSINTHEBULBBORDER">Ferns in the Bulb Border</a></span></td><td align="right">7</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEBANKOFEARLYBULBS">The Bank of Early Bulbs</a></span></td><td align="right">7</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#DAFFODILSBYAWOODLANDPATH">Daffodils by a Woodland Path</a></span></td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#WILDPRIMROSESINTHINWOODLAND">Wild Primroses in thin Woodland</a></span></td><td align="right">11</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEWIDEWOOD-PATH">The Wide Wood Path</a></span></td><td align="right">12</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CISTUSLAURIFOLIUS">Cistus Laurifolius</a></span></td><td align="right">13</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#AWOOD-PATHAMONGCHESTNUTS">A Wood Path among Chestnuts</a></span></td><td align="right">14</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#AWOOD-PATHAMONGBIRCHES">A Wood Path among Birches</a></span></td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CISTUSCYPRIUS">Cistus Cyprius</a></span></td><td align="right">16</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CISTUSBYTHEWOOD-PATH">Cistus by the Wood Path</a></span></td><td align="right">17</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GAULTHERIASHALLONINFLOWER">Gaultheria Shallon in Flower</a></span></td><td align="right">18</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GAULTHERIASHALLONINFRUIT">Gaultheria Shallon in Fruit</a></span></td><td align="right">19</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#WHITEIRISHHEATH">White Irish Heath</a></span></td><td align="right">20</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THESPRINGGARDENFROMD"><span class="smcap">The Spring Garden from</span> <b>D</b> <span class="smcap">on Plan</span></a></td><td align="right">21</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PLANOFTHESPRINGGARDEN">Plan of the Spring Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">23</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEFERN-LIKESWEETCICELY">The Fern-like Sweet Cicely</a></span></td><td align="right">24</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THESPRINGGARDENFROME"><span class="smcap">The Spring Garden from</span> <b>E</b> <span class="smcap">on Plan</span></a></td><td align="right">25</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><a href="#FURTHERROCKFROMG"><span class="smcap">"Further Rock" from</span> <b>G</b> <span class="smcap">on Plan</span></a></td><td align="right">28</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><a href="#FURTHERROCKFROMH"><span class="smcap">"Further Rock" from</span> <b>H</b> <span class="smcap">on Plan</span></a></td><td align="right">29</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NEARROCKFROMF"><span class="smcap">"Near Rock" from</span> <b>F</b> <span class="smcap">on Plan</span></a></td><td align="right">30<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">xii</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEPRIMROSEGARDEN">The Primrose Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">31</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#STEPSTOTHEHIDDENGARDEN">Steps to the Hidden Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">32</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PHLOXDIVARICATAAND">Phlox Divaricata and Arenaria Montana</a></span></td><td align="right">33</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#MALEFERNINTHEHIDDENGARDEN">Male Fern in the Hidden Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">34</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#EXOCHORDAGRANDIFLORA">Exochorda Grandiflora</a></span></td><td align="right">35</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PLANOFTHEHIDDENGARDEN">Plan of the Hidden Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">35</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#EUPHORBIAWULFENII">Euphorbia Wulfenii</a></span></td><td align="right">36</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#IRISESANDLUPINES">Irises and Lupines in the June Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">37</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PARTOFTHEGARLANDROSE">Part of the Garland Rose at the Angle</a></span></td><td align="right">39</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ROSEBLUSHGALLICA">Rose Blush Gallica on Dry Walling</a></span></td><td align="right">42</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SPANISHIRIS">Spanish Iris</a></span></td><td align="right">43</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEJUNEGARDEN">Plan of the June Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">44</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#IRISANDLUPINEBORDERS">Plan of Iris and Lupine Borders</a></span></td><td align="right">44</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#WHITETREELUPINE">White Tree Lupine</a></span></td><td align="right">46</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CATMINTINJUNE">Catmint in June</a></span></td><td align="right">47</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SCOTCHBRIARS">Scotch Briars</a></span></td><td align="right">48</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GERANIUMIBERICUMPLATYPHYLLUM">Geranium Ibericum Platyphyllum</a></span></td><td align="right">49</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEFLOWERBORDERINLATESUMMER">The Flower Border in Late Summer</a></span></td><td align="right">50</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THECROSSWALKDIVIDING">The Cross Walk</a></span></td><td align="right">51</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEEASTEND">The East End of the Flower Border</a></span></td><td align="right">52</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ELEVATION">Plan of the Main Flower Border</a></span></td><td align="right">53</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GOODSTAKING">Good Staking&mdash;Campanula Persicifolia</a></span></td><td align="right">54</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CAREFULSTAKING">Careful Staking of Michaelmas Daisies</a></span></td><td align="right">55</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#WHITEROSELAGUIRLANDE">White Rose La Guirlande; Grey Borders Beyond</a></span></td><td align="right">60</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISRECTA">Clematis Recta</a></span></td><td align="right">61</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#DELPHINIUMBELLADONNA">Delphinium Belladonna</a></span></td><td align="right">62</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CANTERBURYBELLS">Canterbury Bells</a></span></td><td align="right">63</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ROSETHEGARLAND">Rose The Garland in a Silver Holly</a></span></td><td align="right">64</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ERYNGIUMOLIVERIANUM">Eryngium Oliverianum</a></span></td><td align="right">65</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#TALLCAMPANULAS">Tall Campanulas in a Grey Border</a></span></td><td align="right">66</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#YUCCAFILAMENTOSA">Yucca Filamentosa</a></span></td><td align="right">70<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">xiii</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEGREYBORDERS">The Grey Borders: Stachys, &amp;c.</a></span></td><td align="right">71</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ALAVENDERHEDGE">A Lavender Hedge</a></span></td><td align="right">74</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#AESCULUSMACROSTACHYA">Æsculus and Olearia</a></span></td><td align="right">75</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PLANOFASMALL">Plan of Garden of China Asters</a></span></td><td align="right">77</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SOMEOFTHEEARLYASTERS">Some of the Early Asters</a></span></td><td align="right">78</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THESEPTEMBERGARDEN">The September Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">79</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#LOWEREND">The September Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">80</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#UPPEREND">The September Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">80</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#BEGONIASIN">Begonias with Megasea Foliage</a></span></td><td align="right">80</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#EARLYASTERS">Early Asters and Pyrethrum Uliginosum</a></span></td><td align="right">81</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#EARLYMICHAELMASDAISIES">Plan of September Borders</a></span></td><td align="right">81</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GARLANDROSEWHERE">Garland Rose, where Garden joins Wood</a></span></td><td align="right">84</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#POLYGONUMCOMPACTUM">Polygonum and Megasea at a Wood Edge</a></span></td><td align="right">84</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#LILIESANDFUNKIAS">Lilies and Funkias at a Shrubbery Edge</a></span></td><td align="right">84</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#OLEARIAGUNNI">Olearia Gunni, Fern and Funkia</a></span></td><td align="right">85</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#FERNSANDLILIES">Ferns and Lilies at a Shrubbery Edge</a></span></td><td align="right">86</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GYPSOPHILAANDMEGASEA">Gypsophila and Megasea</a></span></td><td align="right">87</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#LILIESANDFERNSATTHEWOOD">Lilies and Ferns at the Wood Edge</a></span></td><td align="right">88</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SMALLWIRESTEMMEDASTER2">Small Wire-stemmed Aster; Second Year</a></span></td><td align="right">88</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SMALLWIRESTEMMEDASTER3">Small Wire-stemmed Aster; Third Year</a></span></td><td align="right">88</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#STOBAEAPURPUREA">Stobæa Purpurea</a></span></td><td align="right">89</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEGREYBORDERS">The Grey Borders: Gypsophila, Echinops, &amp;c.</a></span></td><td align="right">92</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#OCTOBERBORDERS">October Borders of Michaelmas Daisies</a></span></td><td align="right">92</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ASEPTEMBERGREYGARDEN">A September Grey Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">92</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEGREYBORDERPINK">The Grey Border: Pink Hollyhock, &amp;c.</a></span></td><td align="right">93</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SPECIALCOLOURGARDEN">Plans of Special Colour Gardens</a></span></td><td align="right">93</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ADETAILOFTHEGREYSEPTEMBER">A Detail of the Grey September Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#YUCCASANDGREYFOLIAGE">Yuccas and Grey Foliage</a></span></td><td align="right">102</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#AFRONTEDGEOFGREYFOLIAGE">A Front Edge of Grey Foliage</a></span></td><td align="right">103</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#HARDYGRAPEVINEONSOUTH">Hardy Grape Vine on South Side of House</a></span></td><td align="right">106</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#HARDYGRAPEVINEONHOUSE">Hardy Grape Vine on House Wall</a></span></td><td align="right">107</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#VINEANDFIG">Vine and Fig at Door of Mushroom House</a></span></td><td align="right">108<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">xiv</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISMONTANAATANGLEOFCOURT">Clematis Montana at Angle of Court</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISMONTANAOVERWORKSHOPWINDOW">Clematis Montana over Workshop Window</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISMONTANATRAINEDASGARLANDS">Clematis Montana trained as Garlands</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISFLAMMULAAND">Clematis Flammula and Spiræa Lindleyana</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ABUTILONVITIFOLIUM">Abutilon Vitifolium</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#IPOMOEAHEAVENLYBLUE">Ipomœa "Heavenly Blue"</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SOLANUMJASMINOIDES">Solanum Jasminoides</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISFLAMMULAONANGLEOFCOTTAGE">Clematis Flammula on Angle of Cottage</a></span></td><td align="right">108</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISFLAMMULAONCOTTAGE">Clematis Flammula on Cottage</a></span></td><td align="right">109</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CLEMATISFLAMMULAONAWOODENFENCE">Clematis Flammula on a Wooden Fence</a></span></td><td align="right">110</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#SWEETVERBENA">Sweet Verbena</a></span></td><td align="right">111</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#POTPLANTSJUSTPLACED">Pot Plants just placed</a></span></td><td align="right">112</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#PLANTSINPOTSINTHESHADEDCOURT">Plants in Pots in the Shaded Court</a></span></td><td align="right">112</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#MAIDENSWREATH">Maiden's Wreath (Francoa Ramosa)</a></span></td><td align="right">112</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#MAIDENSWREATHBYTANK">Maiden's Wreath by Tank</a></span></td><td align="right">113</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#GERANIUMSANDCANNAS">Geraniums, &amp;c., in a Stone-edged Bed</a></span></td><td align="right">116</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#MAIDENSWREATHINPOTSABOVETANK">Maiden's Wreath in Pots above Tank</a></span></td><td align="right">116</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#FUNKIAHYDRANGEAANDLILY">Funkia, Hydrangea and Lily in the Shaded Court</a></span></td><td align="right">116</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#FUNKIAANDLILIUMSPECIOSUM">Funkia and Lilium Speciosum</a></span></td><td align="right">117</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#LILIUMAURATUM">Lilium Auratum</a></span></td><td align="right">120</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ATUBHYDRANGEA">A Tub Hydrangea</a></span></td><td align="right">120</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#STEPSANDHYDRANGEAS">Steps and Hydrangeas</a></span></td><td align="right">120</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THENARROWSOUTHLAWN">The Narrow South Lawn</a></span></td><td align="right">121</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#HYDRANGEATUBSANDBIRCH">Hydrangea Tubs and Birch-Tree Seat</a></span></td><td align="right">124</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#HYDRANGEATUBSANDNUTWALK">Hydrangea Tubs and Nut Walk</a></span></td><td align="right">124</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#WHITELILIES">White Lilies</a></span></td><td align="right">124</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THESTEPSANDTHEIRINCIDENTS">The Steps and Their Incidents</a></span></td><td align="right">125</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#THEBEAUTIFULFRUITGARDEN">Plan&mdash;The Beautiful Fruit Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">129</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#AWILDHEATHGARDEN">Plan&mdash;A Wild Heath Garden</a></span></td><td align="right">139</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<p class="half-title">COLOUR IN THE FLOWER<br />
-GARDEN</p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br />
-
-<small>A MARCH STUDY AND THE BORDER OF
-EARLY BULBS</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>There comes a day towards the end of March when
-there is but little wind, and that is from the west or
-even south-west. The sun has gained much power,
-so that it is pleasant to sit out in the garden, or, better
-still, in some sunny nook of sheltered woodland. There
-is such a place among silver-trunked Birches, with
-here and there the splendid richness of masses of dark
-Holly. The rest of the background above eye-level
-is of the warm bud-colour of the summer-leafing trees,
-and, below, the fading rust of the now nearly flattened
-fronds of last year's Bracken, and the still paler drifts
-of leaves from neighbouring Oaks and Chestnuts. The
-sunlight strikes brightly on the silver stems of the
-Birches, and casts their shadows clear-cut across the
-grassy woodland ride. The grass is barely green as
-yet, but has the faint winter green of herbage not yet
-grown and still powdered with the short remnants
-of the fine-leaved, last-year-mown heath grasses.
-Brown leaves still hang on young Beech and Oak.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span>
-The trunks of the Spanish Chestnuts are elephant-grey,
-a notable contrast to the sudden, vivid shafts
-of the Birches. Some groups of the pale early Pyrenean
-Daffodil gleam level on the ground a little way forward.</p>
-
-<p>It is the year's first complete picture of flower-effect
-in the woodland landscape. The place is not very far
-from the house, in the nearest hundred yards of the
-copse; where flowers seem to be more in place than
-further away. Looking to the left, the long ridge and
-south slope of the house-roof is seen through the
-leafless trees, though the main wall-block is hidden by
-the sheltering Hollies and Junipers.</p>
-
-<p>Coming down towards the garden by another broad
-grassy way, that goes westward through the Chestnuts
-and then turns towards the down-hill north, there
-comes yet another deviation through Rhododendrons
-and Birches to the main lawn. But before the last
-turn there is a pleasant mass of colour showing in the
-wood-edge on the dead-leaf carpet. It is a straggling
-group of <i>Daphne Mezereon</i>, with some clumps of red
-Lent Hellebores, and, to the front, some half-connected
-patches of the common Dog-tooth Violet. The nearly
-related combination of colour is a delight to the trained
-colour-eye. There is nothing brilliant; it is all
-restrained, refined, in harmony with the veiled light
-that reaches the flowers through the great clumps of
-Hollies and tall half-overhead Chestnuts and neighbouring
-Beech. The colours are all a little "sad,"
-as the old writers so aptly say of the flower-tints of
-secondary strength. But it is a perfect picture. One
-comes to it again and again as one does to any picture
-that is good to live with.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span></p>
-
-<p>To devise these living pictures with simple well-known
-flowers seems to me the best thing to do in
-gardening. Whether it is the putting together of two
-or three kinds of plants, or even of one kind only in
-some happy setting, or whether it is the ordering of a
-much larger number of plants, as in a flower-border of
-middle and late summer, the intention is always the
-same. Whether the arrangement is simple and modest,
-whether it is obvious or whether it is subtle, whether
-it is bold and gorgeous, the aim is always to use the
-plants to the best of one's means and intelligence so
-as to form pictures of living beauty.</p>
-
-<p>It is a thing that I see so rarely attempted, and that
-seems to me so important, that the wish to suggest it
-to others, and to give an idea of examples that I have
-worked out, in however modest a way, is the purpose
-of this book.</p>
-
-<p>These early examples within the days of March are
-of special interest because as yet flowers are but few;
-the mind is less distracted by much variety than later
-in the year, and is more readily concentrated on the
-few things that may be done and observed; so that
-the necessary restriction is a good preparation, by
-easy steps, for the wider field of observation that is
-presented later.</p>
-
-<p>Now we pass on through the dark masses of Rhododendron
-and the Birches that shoot up among them.
-How the silver stems, blotched and banded with varied
-browns and greys so deep in tone that they show like a
-luminous black, tell among the glossy Rhododendron
-green; and how strangely different is the way of
-growth of the two kinds of tree; the tall white trunks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span>
-spearing up through the dense, dark, leathery leaf-masses
-of solid, roundish outline, with their delicate network of
-reddish branch and spray gently swaying far overhead!</p>
-
-<p>Now we come to the lawn, which slopes a little
-downward to the north. On the right it has a low
-retaining-wall, whose top line is level; it bears up a
-border and pathway next the house's western face.
-The border and wall are all of a piece, for it is a dry
-wall partly planted with the same shrubby and half-shrubby
-things that are in the earth above. They
-have been comforting to look at all the winter; a
-pleasant grey coating of Phlomis, Lavender, Rosemary,
-Cistus and Santolina; and at the end and angle where
-the wall is highest, a mass of <i>Pyrus japonica</i>, planted
-both above and below, already showing its rose-red
-bloom. At one point at the foot of the wall is a
-strong tuft of <i>Iris stylosa</i> whose first blooms appeared
-in November. This capital plant flowers bravely all
-through the winter in any intervals of open weather.
-It likes a sunny place against a wall in poor soil. If
-it is planted in better ground the leaves grow very tall
-and it gives but little bloom.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="IRISSTYLOSA">
-<img src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>IRIS STYLOSA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Now we pass among some shrub-clumps, and at the
-end come upon a cheering sight; a tree of <i>Magnolia
-conspicua</i> bearing hundreds of its great white cups of
-fragrant bloom. Just before reaching it, and taking
-part with it in the garden picture, are some tall bushes
-of <i>Forsythia suspensa</i>, tossing out many-feet-long
-branches loaded with their burden of clear yellow
-flowers. They are ten to twelve feet high, and one
-looks up at much of the bloom clear-cut against the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span>
-pure blue of the sky; the upper part of the Magnolia
-also shows against the sky. Here there is a third
-flower-picture; this time of warm white and finest
-yellow on brilliant blue, and out in open sunlight.
-Among the Forsythias is also a large bush of <i>Magnolia
-stellata</i>, whose milk-white flowers may be counted by
-the thousand. As the earlier <i>M. conspicua</i> goes out of
-bloom it comes into full bearing, keeping pace with
-the Forsythia, whose season runs on well into April.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="MAGNOLIACONSPICUA">
-<img src="images/i_022.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>MAGNOLIA CONSPICUA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is always a little difficult to find suitable places
-for the early bulbs. Many of them can be enjoyed in
-rough and grassy places, but we also want to combine
-them into pretty living pictures in the garden proper.</p>
-
-<p>Nothing seems to me more unsatisfactory than the
-usual way of having them scattered about in small
-patches in the edges of flower-borders, where they
-only show as little disconnected dabs of colour, and
-where they are necessarily in danger of disturbance
-and probable injury when their foliage has died down
-and their places are wanted for summer flowers.</p>
-
-<p>It was a puzzle for many years to know how to
-treat these early bulbs, but at last a plan was devised
-that seems so satisfactory that I have no hesitation
-in advising it for general adoption.</p>
-
-<p>On the further side of a path that bounds my June
-garden is a border about seventy feet long and ten
-feet wide. At every ten feet along the back is a
-larch post planted with a free-growing Rose. These
-are not only to clothe their posts but are to grow into
-garlands swinging on slack chains from post to post.
-Beyond are Bamboos, and then an old hedge-bank<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span>
-with Scotch Firs, Oaks, Thorns, &amp;c. The border
-slopes upwards from the path, forming a bank of
-gentle ascent. It was first planted with hardy Ferns
-in bold drifts; Male Fern for the most part, because
-it is not only handsome but extremely persistent;
-the fronds remaining green into the winter. The Fern-spaces
-are shown in the plan by diagonal hatching;
-between them come the bulbs, with a general edging
-to the front of mossy Saxifrage.</p>
-
-<p>The colour-scheme begins with the pink of <i>Megasea
-ligulata</i>, and with the lower-toned pinks of <i>Fumaria
-bulbosa</i> and the Dog-tooth Violets (<i>Erythronium</i>). At
-the back of these are Lent Hellebores of dull red colouring,
-agreeing charmingly with the colour of the bulbs.
-A few white Lent Hellebores are at the end; they
-have turned to greenish white by the time the rather
-late <i>Scilla amœna</i> is in bloom. Then comes a brilliant
-patch of pure blue with white&mdash;<i>Scilla sibirica</i> and
-white Hyacinths, followed by the also pure blues of
-<i>Scilla bifolia</i> and <i>Chionodoxa</i> and the later, more purple-blue
-of Grape Hyacinth. A long drift of white Crocus
-comes next, in beauty in the border's earliest days;
-and later, the blue-white of <i>Puschkinia</i>; then again
-pure blue and white of <i>Chionodoxa</i> and white Hyacinth.</p>
-
-<p>Now the colours change to white and yellow and
-golden foliage, with the pretty little pale trumpet
-Daffodil Consul Crawford, and beyond it the stronger
-yellow of two other small early kinds&mdash;<i>N. nanus</i> and
-the charming little <i>N. minor</i>, quite distinct though so
-often confounded with <i>nanus</i> in gardens. With these,
-and in other strips and patches towards the end of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span>
-border, are plantings of the Golden Valerian, so useful
-for its bright yellow foliage quite early in the year.
-The leaves of the Orange Day-lily are also of a pale
-yellowish green colour when they first come up, and
-are used at the end of the border. These plants of
-golden and pale foliage are also placed in a further
-region beyond the plan, and show to great advantage
-as the eye enfilades the border and reaches the more
-distant places. Before the end of the bulb-border is
-reached there is once more a drift of harmonised faint
-pink colouring of <i>Megasea</i> and the little <i>Fumaria</i>
-(also known as <i>Corydalis bulbosa</i>) with the pale early
-Pyrenean Daffodil, <i>N. pallidus præcox</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The bulb-flowers are not all in bloom exactly at the
-same time, but there is enough of the colour intended
-to give the right effect in each grouping. Standing
-at the end, just beyond the Dog-tooth Violets, the
-arrangement and progression of colour is pleasant
-and interesting, and in some portions vivid; the pure
-blues in the middle spaces being much enhanced by
-the yellow flowers and golden foliage that follow.</p>
-
-<p>Through April and May the leaves of the bulbs are
-growing tall, and their seed-pods are carefully removed
-to prevent exhaustion. By the end of May the Ferns
-are throwing up their leafy crooks; by June the
-feathery fronds are displayed in all their tender freshness;
-they spread over the whole bank, and we forget
-that there are any bulbs between. By the time the
-June garden, whose western boundary it forms, has
-come into fullest bloom it has become a completely
-furnished bank of Fern-beauty.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="MAGNOLIASTELLATA">
-<img src="images/i_026.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>MAGNOLIA STELLATA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="FERNSINTHEBULBBORDER">
-<img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>FERNS IN THE BULB BORDER.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEBANKOFEARLYBULBS">
-<a href="images/i_028.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_028thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE BANK OF EARLY BULBS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br />
-
-<small>THE WOOD</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>Ten acres is but a small area for a bit of woodland,
-yet it can be made apparently much larger by well-considered
-treatment. As the years pass and the
-different portions answer to careful guidance, I am
-myself surprised to see the number and wonderful
-variety of the pictures of sylvan beauty that it displays
-throughout the year. I did not specially aim at
-variety, but, guided by the natural conditions of each
-region, tried to think out how best they might be
-fostered and perhaps a little bettered.</p>
-
-<p>The only way in which variety of aspect was deliberately
-chosen was in the way of thinning out the
-natural growths. It was a wood of seedling trees that
-had come up naturally after an old wood of Scotch
-Fir had been cut down, and it seemed well to clear
-away all but one, or in some cases two kinds of trees in
-the several regions. Even in this the intention was to
-secure simplicity rather than variety, so that in moving
-about the ground there should be one thing at a time
-to see and enjoy. It is just this quality of singleness
-or simplicity of aim that I find wanting in gardens in
-general, where one may see quantities of the best
-plants grandly grown and yet no garden pictures.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p>
-
-<p>Of course one has to remember that there are many
-minds to which this need of an artist's treatment of
-garden and woodland does not appeal, just as there
-are some who do not care for music or for poetry, or
-who see no difference between the sculpture of the
-old Greeks and that of any modern artist who is not
-of the first rank, or to whom architectural refinement
-is as an unknown language. And in the case of the
-more superficial enjoyment of flowers one has sympathy
-too. For a love of flowers, of any kind, however
-shallow, is a sentiment that makes for human sympathy
-and kindness, and is in itself uplifting, as everything
-must be that is a source of reverence and admiration.
-Still, the object of this book is to draw attention,
-however slightly and imperfectly, to the better ways of
-gardening, and to bring to bear upon the subject
-some consideration of that combination of common
-sense, sense of beauty and artistic knowledge that
-can make plain ground and growing things into a
-year-long succession of living pictures. Common sense
-I put first, because it restrains from any sort of folly
-or sham or affectation. Sense of beauty is the gift of
-God, for which those who have received it in good
-measure can never be thankful enough. The nurturing
-of this gift through long years of study, observation,
-and close application in any one of the ways
-in which fine art finds expression is the training of
-the artist's brain and heart and hand. The better a
-human mind is trained to the perception of beauty
-the more opportunities will it find of exercising this
-precious gift and the more directly will it be brought<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span>
-to bear upon even the very simplest matters of everyday
-life, and always to their bettering.</p>
-
-<p>So it was in the wood of young seedling trees, where
-Oak and Holly, Birch, Beech and Mountain Ash,
-came up together in a close thicket of young saplings.
-It seemed well to consider, in the first place, how to
-bring something like order into the mixed jumble,
-and, the better to do this, to appeal to the little trees
-themselves and see what they had to say about it.</p>
-
-<p>The ground runs on a natural slope downward to the
-north, or, to be more exact, as the highest point is at
-one corner, its surface is tilted diagonally all over.
-So, beginning at the lower end of the woody growth,
-near the place where the house some day might stand,
-the first thing that appeared was a well-grown Holly,
-and rather near it, another; both older trees than the
-more recent seedling growth. Close to the second
-Holly was a young Birch, the trunk about four inches
-thick and already in the early pride of its silvering
-bark. That was enough to prompt the decision that
-this part of the wood should be of silver Birch and
-Holly, so nearly all other growths were cut down or
-pulled up. A hundred yards higher up there were
-some strong young Oaks, then some Beeches, and,
-all over the top of the ground a thick growth of young
-Scotch Fir, while the western region had a good
-sprinkling of promising Spanish Chestnut.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="DAFFODILSBYAWOODLANDPATH">
-<img src="images/i_033.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>DAFFODILS BY A WOODLAND PATH.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="WILDPRIMROSESINTHINWOODLAND">
-<img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>WILD PRIMROSES IN THIN WOODLAND.</i><br />
-(<i>From a Picture by Henry Moon.</i>)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>All these natural groupings were accepted, and a
-first thinning was made of the smallest stuff of other
-kinds. But it was done with the most careful watching,
-for there were to be no harsh frontiers. One kind of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span>
-tree was to join hands with the next, and often a distinct
-deviation was made to the general rule. For the
-beautiful growth of the future wood was the thing that
-mattered, rather than obedience to any inflexible law.</p>
-
-<p>Now, after twenty years, the saplings have become
-trees and the preponderance of one kind of tree at a
-time has given a feeling of repose and dignity. Here
-and there something exceptional occurs, but it causes
-interest, not confusion. Five woodland walks pass
-upward through the trees; every one has its own
-character, while its details change during the progress&mdash;never
-abruptly but in leisurely sequence; as if inviting
-the quiet stroller to stop a moment to enjoy
-some little woodland suavity, and then gently enticing
-him to go further, with agreeable anticipation of what
-may come next. And if I may judge by the pleasure
-that these woodland ways give to some of my friends
-that I know are in sympathy with what I am trying
-to do, and by my own thankful delight in them, I may
-take it that my little sylvan pictures have come fairly
-right, so that I may ask my reader to go with me in
-spirit through some of them.</p>
-
-<p>My house, a big cottage, stands facing a little to
-the east of south, just below the wood. The windows
-of the sitting-room and its outer door, which stands
-open in all fine summer weather, look up a straight
-wide grassy way, the vista being ended by a fine old
-Scotch Fir with a background of dark wood. This
-old Fir and one other, and a number in and near the
-southern hedge, are all that remain of the older wood
-which was all of Scotch Fir.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span></p>
-
-<p>This green wood walk, being the widest and most
-important, is treated more boldly than the others&mdash;with
-groups of Rhododendrons in the region rather
-near the house, and for the rest only a biggish patch
-of the two North American Brambles, the white-flowered
-<i>Rubus nutkanus</i>, and the rosy <i>R. odoratus</i>.
-In spring the western region of tall Spanish Chestnuts,
-which begins just beyond the Rhododendrons, is
-carpeted with Poets' Narcissus; the note of tender
-white blossom being taken up and repeated by the
-bloom-clouds of <i>Amelanchier</i>, that charming little
-woodland flowering tree whose use in such ways is
-so much neglected. Close to the ground in the distance
-the light comes with brilliant effect through the young
-leaves of a wide-spread carpet of Lily of the Valley,
-whose clusters of sweet little white bells will be a
-delight to see a month hence.</p>
-
-<p>The Rhododendrons are carefully grouped for
-colour&mdash;pink, white, rose and red of the best qualities
-are in the sunniest part, while, kept well apart from
-them, near the tall Chestnuts and rejoicing in their
-partial shade, are the purple colourings, of as pure
-and cool a purple as may be found among carefully
-selected <i>ponticum</i> seedlings and the few named kinds
-that associate well with them. Some details of this
-planting were given at length in my former book
-"Wood and Garden."</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEWIDEWOOD-PATH">
-<img src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE WIDE WOOD-PATH.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CISTUSLAURIFOLIUS">
-<img src="images/i_038.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CISTUS LAURIFOLIUS AT THE SUNNY ENTRANCE OF THE FERN WALK.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Among the Rhododendrons, at points carefully
-devised to be of good effect, either from the house or
-from various points of the lawn and grass paths, are
-strong groups of <i>Lilium auratum</i>; they give a new<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>
-picture of flower-beauty in the late summer and
-autumn and till near the end of October. The dark,
-strong foliage makes the best possible setting for the
-Lilies, and gives each group of them its fullest value.
-Another, narrower path, more to the east, is called the
-Fern walk, because, besides the general growth of
-Bracken that clothes the whole of the wood, there are
-groups of common hardy Ferns in easy patches,
-planted in such a way as to suggest that they grew
-there naturally. The Male Fern, the beautiful Dilated
-Shield Fern, and Polypody are native to the ground,
-and it was easy to place these, in some cases merely
-adding to a naturally grown tuft, so that they look
-quite at home. Lady Fern, <i>Blechnum</i> and <i>Osmunda</i>,
-and Oak and Beech Ferns have been added, the
-<i>Osmunda</i> in a depression that collects the water from
-any storms of rain.</p>
-
-<p>At the beginning of all these paths I took some pains
-to make the garden melt imperceptibly into the wood,
-and in each case to do it a different way. Where this
-path begins the lawn ends at a group of Oak, Holly
-and Cistus, with an undergrowth of Gaultheria and
-Andromeda. The larger trees are to the left and the
-small evergreen shrubs on a rocky mound to the right.
-Within a few yards the turf path becomes a true
-wood path. Just as wild gardening should never
-look like garden gardening, or, as it so sadly often does,
-like garden plants gone astray and quite out of place,
-so wood paths should never look like garden paths.
-There must be no hard edges, no conscious boundaries.
-The wood path is merely an easy way that the eye<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span>
-just perceives and the foot follows. It dies away
-imperceptibly on either side into the floor of the wood
-and is of exactly the same nature, only that it is
-smooth and easy and is not encumbered by projecting
-tree-roots, Bracken or Bramble, these being all removed
-when the path is made.</p>
-
-<p>If it is open enough to allow of the growth of grass,
-and the grass has to be cut, and is cut with a machine,
-then a man with a faghook must follow to cut away
-slantingly the hard edge of standing grass that is left
-on each side. For the track of the machine not only
-leaves the hard, unlovely edges, but also brings into
-the wood the incongruous sentiment of that discipline
-of trimness which belongs to the garden, and that,
-even there in its own place, is often overdone.</p>
-
-<p>Now we are in the true wood-path among Oaks and
-Birches. Looking round, the view is here and there
-stopped by prosperous-looking Hollies, but for the
-most part one can see a fair way into the wood. In
-April the wood-floor is plentifully furnished with
-Daffodils. Here, in the region furthest removed from
-the white Poets' Daffodil of the upper ground, they
-are all of trumpet kinds, and the greater number of
-strong yellow colour. For the Daffodils range through
-the wood in a regular sequence of kinds that is not
-only the prettiest way to have them, but that I have
-often found, in the case of people who did not know
-their Daffodils well, served to make the whole story
-of their general kinds and relationships clear and
-plain; the hybrids of each group standing between
-the parent kinds; these again leading through other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>
-hybrids to further clearly defined species, ending with
-the pure trumpets. As the sorts are intergrouped at
-their edges, so that at least two removes are in view
-at one time, the lesson in the general relationship of
-kinds is easily learnt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="AWOOD-PATHAMONGCHESTNUTS">
-<img src="images/i_041.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>A WOOD-PATH AMONG CHESTNUTS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="AWOOD-PATHAMONGBIRCHES">
-<img src="images/i_042.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>A WOOD-PATH AMONG BIRCHES.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>They are planted, not in patches but in long drifts,
-a way that not only shows the plant in good number
-to better advantage, but that is singularly happy in
-its effect in the woodland landscape. This is specially
-noticeable towards the close of the day, when the
-sunlight, yellowing as it nears the horizon, lights up
-the long stretches of yellow bloom with an increase of
-colour strength, while the wide-stretching shadow-lengths
-throw the woodland shades into large <i>phrases</i>
-of broadened mass, all subdued and harmonised by
-the same yellow light that illuminates the long level
-ranks of golden bloom.</p>
-
-<p>From this same walk in June, looking westward
-through the Birch stems, the value of the careful
-colour-scheme of the Rhododendrons is fully felt.
-They are about a hundred yards away, and their mass
-is broken by the groups of intervening tree-trunks,
-but their brightness is all the more apparent seen from
-under the nearer roofing mass of tree-top, and the
-yellowing light makes the intended colour-effect still
-more successful by throwing its warm tone over the
-whole.</p>
-
-<p>But nearer at hand the Fern walk has its own
-little pictures. In early summer there are patches of
-<i>Trillium</i>, the white Wood Lily, in cool hollows among
-the ferns, and, some twenty paces further up, another<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>
-wider group of the same. Between the two, spreading
-through a mossy bank, in and out among the ferns
-and right down to the path, next to a coming patch of
-Oak Fern, is a charming little white flower. Its
-rambling roots thread their way under the mossy
-carpet, and every few inches throw up a neat little
-stem and leaves crowned with a starry flower of
-tenderest white. It is <i>Trientalis</i>, a native of our most
-northern hill-woods, the daintiest of all woodland
-flowers.</p>
-
-<p>To right and left white Foxgloves spire up among
-the Bracken. When the Foxglove-seed is ripe, we
-remember places in the wood where tree-stumps were
-grubbed last winter. A little of the seed is scattered
-in these places and raked in. Meanwhile one forgets
-all about it till two years afterwards there are the
-stately Foxgloves. It is good to see their strong spikes
-of solid bloom standing six to seven feet high, and
-then to look down again at the lowly <i>Trientalis</i> and
-to note how the tender little blossom, poised on
-its thread-like stem, holds its own in interest and
-importance.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CISTUSCYPRIUS">
-<img src="images/i_045.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CISTUS CYPRIUS IN THE CISTUS CLEARING.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CISTUSBYTHEWOOD-PATH">
-<img src="images/i_046.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CISTUS BY THE WOOD-PATH.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Further up the Fern walk, near the upper group of
-<i>Trillium</i>, are some patches of a plant with roundish,
-glittering leaves. It is a North American <i>Asarum</i>
-(<i>A. virginicum</i>); the curious wax-like brown and
-greenish flower, after the usual manner of its kind,
-is short-stalked and hidden at the base of the leaf-stems.
-Near it, and growing close to the ground in a
-tuft of dark-green moss, is an interesting plant&mdash;<i>Goodyera
-repens</i>, a terrestrial Orchid. One might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span>
-easily pass it by, for its curiously white-veined leaves
-are half hidden in the moss, and its spike of pale
-greenish white flower is not conspicuous; but, knowing
-it is there, I never pass without kneeling down, both
-to admire its beauty and to ensure its well-being by a
-careful removal of a little of the deep moss here and
-there where it threatens too close an invasion.</p>
-
-<p>Now there comes a break in the Fern walk, or rather
-it takes another character. The end of one of the
-wide green ways that we call the Lily path comes
-into it on the right, and, immediately beyond this,
-stands the second of the great Scotch Firs of the older
-wood. The trunk, at five feet from the ground, has
-a girth of nine and a half feet. The colour of the
-rugged bark is a wonder of lovely tones of cool greys
-and greens, and of a luminous deep brown in the fissures
-and cavities. Where the outer layers have flaked off
-it is a warm reddish grey, of a quality that is almost
-peculiar to itself. This great tree's storm-rent head
-towers up some seventy feet, far above the surrounding
-foliage of Oak and Birch. Close to its foot, and
-showing behind it as one comes up the Fern walk,
-are a Holly and a Mountain Ash.</p>
-
-<p>This spot is a meeting-place of several ways. On
-the right the wide green of the Lily path; then, still
-bearing diagonally to the right, one of the ways into
-the region of Azalia and Cistus; then, straight past
-the big tree, a wood walk carpeted with Whortleberry
-and passing through a whole Whortleberry region
-under Oaks, Hollies and Beeches, and, lastly, the path
-which is the continuation of the Fern walk. Looking<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span>
-along it one sees, a little way ahead, a closer shade of
-trees, for the most part Oak, but before entering this,
-on the right-hand gently rising bank, is a sheet of
-bright green leaves, closely set in May with neat spikes
-of white bloom. It is <i>Smilacina bifolia</i>, otherwise
-known as <i>Maianthemum bifolium</i>. The pretty little
-plant has taken to the place in a way that rejoices the
-heart of the wild gardener, joining in perfect accord
-with the natural growth of short Whortleberry and a
-background of the graceful fronds of Dilated Shield
-Fern, and looking as if it was of spontaneous growth.</p>
-
-<p>Now the path passes a large Holly, laced through
-and through with wild Honeysuckle. The Honeysuckle
-stems that run up into the tree look like great
-ropes, and a quantity of the small ends come showering
-out of the tree-top and over the path, like a tangled
-veil of small cordage.</p>
-
-<p>The path has been steadily rising, and now the
-ascent is a little steeper. The character of the trees
-is changing; Oaks are giving way to Scotch Firs.
-Just where this change begins the bank to right and
-left is covered with the fresh, strong greenery of
-<i>Gaultheria Shallon</i>. About twenty years ago a few
-small pieces were planted. Now it is a mass of close
-green growth two to three feet high and thirty paces
-long, and extending for several yards into the wood
-to right and left. In a light, peaty soil such as this,
-it is the best of undershrubs. It is in full leaf-beauty
-in the dead of winter, while in early summer it bears
-clusters of good flowers of the Arbutus type. These
-are followed by handsome dark berries nearly as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>
-large as black currants, covered with a blue-grey
-bloom.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GAULTHERIASHALLONINFLOWER">
-<img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GAULTHERIA SHALLON IN FLOWER.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GAULTHERIASHALLONINFRUIT">
-<img src="images/i_050.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GAULTHERIA SHALLON IN FRUIT.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Now the path crosses another of the broad turfy
-ways, but here the turf is all of Heath; a fourteen-foot
-wide road of grey-rosy bloom in August; and now
-we are in the topmost region of Scotch Fir, with
-undergrowth of Whortleberry.</p>
-
-<p>The wood path next to this goes nearly straight up
-through the middle of the ground. It begins at another
-point of the small lawn next the house, and passes
-first by a turf walk through a mounded region of
-small shrubs and carefully placed pieces of the local
-sandstone. Andromeda, Skimmia, and Alpenrose have
-grown into solid masses, so that the rocky ridges peer
-out only here and there. And when my friends say,
-"But then, what a chance you had with that shelf of
-rock coming naturally out of the ground," I feel the
-glowing warmth of an inward smile and think that
-perhaps the stones have not been so badly placed.</p>
-
-<p>Near the middle of the woody ground a space was
-cleared that would be large enough to be sunny throughout
-the greater part of the day. This was for Cistuses.
-It is one of the compensations for gardening on the
-poorest of soils that these delightful shrubs do well
-with only the preparation of digging up and loosening
-the sand, for my soil is nothing better. The kinds
-that are best in the woody landscape are <i>C. laurifolius</i>
-and <i>C. cyprius</i>; <i>laurifolius</i> is the hardiest, <i>cyprius</i>
-rather the more beautiful, with its three-and-a-half-inch
-wide flowers of tenderest white with a red-purple
-blotch at the base of each petal. Its growth, also, is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span>
-rather more free and graceful. It is the kind usually
-sold as <i>ladaniferus</i>, and flowers in July. <i>C. laurifolius</i>
-is a bush of rather denser habit; it bears an abundance
-of bloom rather smaller than that of <i>C. cyprius</i>, and
-without the coloured blotch. But when it grows old
-and some of its stems are borne down and lie along
-the ground, the habit changes and it acquires a free
-pictorial character. These two large-growing Cistuses
-are admirable for wild planting in sunny wood edges.
-The illustrations (pp. <a href="#CISTUSCYPRIUS">16</a>, <a href="#CISTUSBYTHEWOOD-PATH">17</a>) show their use, not only in
-their own ground, but by the sides of the grassy ways
-and the regions where the wood paths leave the lawn.</p>
-
-<p>The sheltered, sunny Cistus clearing has an undergrowth
-of wild heaths that are native to the ground,
-but a very few other Heaths are added, namely, <i>Erica
-ciliata</i> and the Cornish Heath; and there is a
-fine patch at the joining of two of the little grassy
-paths of the white form of the Irish Heath (<i>Menziesia
-polifolia</i>).</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="WHITEIRISHHEATH">
-<img src="images/i_053.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>WHITE IRISH HEATH.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THESPRINGGARDENFROMD">
-<img src="images/i_054.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE SPRING GARDEN FROM</i> <b>D</b> <i>ON PLAN. "NEAR ROCK" IS TO THE LEFT.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br />
-
-<small>THE SPRING GARDEN</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>As my garden falls naturally into various portions,
-distinct enough from each other to allow of separate
-treatment, I have found it well to devote one space at
-a time, sometimes mainly, sometimes entirely, to the
-flowers of one season of the year.</p>
-
-<p>There is therefore one portion that is a complete
-little garden of spring flowers. It begins to show some
-bloom by the end of March, but its proper season is
-the month of April and three weeks of May.</p>
-
-<p>In many places the spring garden has to give way
-to the summer garden, a plan that greatly restricts
-the choice of plants, and necessarily excludes some of
-the finest flowers of the early year.</p>
-
-<p>My spring garden lies at the end and back of a high
-wall that shelters the big summer flower border from
-the north and north-west winds. The line of the wall
-is continued as a Yew hedge that in time will rise to
-nearly the same height, about eleven feet. At the far
-end the Yew hedge returns to the left so as to fence
-in the spring flowers from the east and to hide some
-sheds. The space also encloses some beds of Tree
-Peonies and a plot of grass, roughly circular in shape,
-about eight yards across, which is nearly surrounded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span>
-by Oaks, Hollies and Cobnuts. The plan shows its
-disposition. It is of no design; the space was accepted
-with its own conditions, arranged in the simplest way
-as to paths, and treated very carefully for colour. It
-really makes as pretty a picture of spring flowers as
-one could wish to see.</p>
-
-<p>The chief mass of colour is in the main border. The
-circles marked V and M are strong plants of Veratrum
-and Myrrhis. Gardens of spring flowers generally have
-a thin, poor effect for want of plants of important
-foliage. The greater number of them look what they
-are&mdash;temporary makeshifts. It seemed important
-that in this little space, which is given almost entirely
-to spring flowers, this weakness should not be allowed.
-But herbaceous plants of rather large growth with fine
-foliage in April and May are not many. The best I
-could think of are <i>Veratrum nigrum</i>, <i>Myrrhis odorata</i>
-and the newer <i>Euphorbia Wulfenii</i>. The <i>Myrrhis</i> is
-the Sweet Cicely of old English gardens. It is an umbelliferous
-plant with large fern-like foliage, that makes
-early growth and flowers in the beginning of May. At
-three years old a well-grown plant is a yard high and
-across. After that, if the plants are not replaced by
-young ones they grow too large, though they can be
-kept in check by a careful removal of the outer leaves
-and by cutting out some whole crowns when the plant
-is making its first growth. The Veratrum, with its
-large, deeply plaited, undivided leaves is in striking
-contrast, but the two kinds of plants, in groups as the
-plan shows, with running patches of the large form of
-<i>Megasea cordifolia</i>, the great <i>Euphorbia Wulfenii</i> and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a><br /><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
-some groups of Black Hellebore, just give that comfortable
-impression of permanence and distinct intention
-that are usually so lamentably absent from gardens
-of spring flowers.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="PLANOFTHESPRINGGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_057.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_057thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>PLAN OF THE SPRING GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Many years ago I came to the conclusion that in all
-flower borders it is better to plant in long rather than
-block-shaped patches. It not only has a more pictorial
-effect, but a thin long planting does not leave an
-unsightly empty space when the flowers are done and
-the leaves have perhaps died down. The word "drift"
-conveniently describes the shape I have in mind and
-I commonly use it in speaking of these long-shaped
-plantings.</p>
-
-<p>Such drifts are shown faintly in the plan, reduced in
-number and simplified in form, but serving to show
-the general manner of planting. There are of course
-many plants that look best in a distinct clump or even
-as single examples, such as <i>Dictamnus</i> (the Burning
-Bush), and the beautiful pale yellow <i>Pæonia wittmanniana</i>,
-a single plant of which is marked W near
-the beginning of the main border.</p>
-
-<p>For the first seven or eight yards, in the front and
-middle spaces, there are plants of tender colouring&mdash;pale
-Primroses, Tiarella, pale yellow Daffodils, pale
-yellow early Iris, pale lemon Wallflower, double Arabis,
-white Anemones and the palest of the lilac Aubrietias;
-also a beautiful pale lilac Iris, one of the Caparne
-hybrids; with long drifts of white and pale yellow
-Tulips&mdash;nothing deeper in colour than the graceful
-<i>Tulipa retroflexa</i>. At the back of the border the colours
-are darker; purple Wallflower and the great dull red<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>-purple
-double Tulip so absurdly called Bleu Celeste.
-These run through and among and behind the first
-clump of Veratrums.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEFERN-LIKESWEETCICELY">
-<img src="images/i_059.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE FERN-LIKE SWEET CICELY.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THESPRINGGARDENFROME">
-<img src="images/i_060.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE SPRING GARDEN FROM</i> <b>E</b> <i>ON PLAN. "FURTHER ROCK" IS ON THE
-NEAR RIGHT HAND.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the middle of the length of the border there is
-still a good proportion of tender and light colouring in
-front: white Primroses and Daffodils; the pale yellow
-Uvularia and <i>Adonis vernalis</i>; but with these there are
-stronger colours. Tulip Chrysolora of fuller yellow,
-yellow Wallflowers, the tall Doronicum, and, towards
-the back, several patches of yellow Crown Imperial.</p>
-
-<p>Then again in front, with more double Arabis, is the
-lovely pale blue of <i>Myosotis dissitiflora</i> and <i>Mertensia
-virginica</i>, and, with sheets of the foam-like Tiarella,
-the tender pink of <i>Dicentra eximia</i> and pink and rose-red
-Tulips. At the back of this come scarlet Tulips,
-the stately cream-white form of <i>Camassia Leichtlini</i>
-and a bold tuft of Solomon's Seal; then Orange Tulips,
-brown Wallflowers, Orange Crown Imperial, and taller
-scarlet Tulips of the <i>gesneriana</i> class. The strong
-colouring is repeated beyond the cross-path where the
-patches of Acanthus are shown, with more orange
-Tulips, brown Wallflowers, orange Crown Imperial and
-great flaming scarlet <i>gesneriana</i> Tulips. All this shows
-up finely against the background of dark yew. At
-the extreme end, where the yew hedge returns forward
-at a right angle, this point is accentuated by a raised
-mound of triangular shape, dry-walled and slightly
-curved forward on the side facing the border and the
-spectator. On this at the back is a young plant of
-<i>Yucca gloriosa</i> for display in future years and a front
-planting of the large growing <i>Euphorbia Wulfenii</i>, one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>
-of the grandest and most pictorial of plants of recent
-acquirement for garden use.</p>
-
-<p>The Acanthus and Yucca are of course plants of
-middle and late summer; between them are some
-Tritomas. These plants are here because one of the
-most often used of the garden thoroughfares passes
-the point C, which is a thick-roofed arch of Rose and
-Clematis, and, seen from this point and framed by the
-near greenery, they form a striking picture of middle-distant
-form and colour in the later summer.</p>
-
-<p>The space marked Further Rock is an upward-sloping
-bank; the Hollies standing in rather higher
-ground. Here the plants are between, and tumbling
-over, rocky ridges. Next the large Holly, and extending
-to the middle of the rocky promontory, are
-again the strong reds and browns, with accompanying
-bronze-red foliage of <i>Heuchera Richardsoni</i>. This gives
-place to dark green carpeting masses of Iberis with
-cold-white bloom, and, nearer the path, <i>Lithospermum
-prostratum</i>; the flower-colour here changing, through
-white, to blue and bluish; <i>Myosotis</i> in front telling
-charmingly against the dark-leaved <i>Lithospermum</i>.
-At the highest points, next to a great crowning boulder,
-is the Common Blue Iris and a paler one of the beautiful
-Caparne series. Then down to the path where it begins
-to turn is a drift of the bluish lilac <i>Phlox divaricata</i>,
-and, opposite the cross-path, some jewels of the newer
-pale yellow <i>Alyssum sulphureum</i>. This rocky shoulder
-is also enlivened by a natural-looking but very carefully
-considered planting of white Tulips that run through
-both the blue and the red regions.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span></p>
-
-<p>The corner marked Near Rock is also a slightly
-raised bank. The dark dots are cobnuts; the dotted
-line between is where there are garlands of <i>Clematis
-montana</i> that swing on ropes between the nuts. The
-garlands dip down and nearly meet the flowers of some
-pale pink Tree Peonies. Open spaces above the garlands
-and under the meeting branches of the nuts give
-glimpses of distant points where some little scheme
-has been devised to please the eye, such as the bit of
-bank to the left of Seat A, where there are two little
-fish-like drifts of palest Aubrietia in a dense grey
-setting of Cerastium.</p>
-
-<p>The point of the Near Rock next the path agrees
-with the colouring opposite, but also has features of
-its own; a groundwork of grey <i>Antennaria</i>, the soft
-lilac-pink of the good <i>Aubrietia Moorheimi</i> changing
-to the left to the fuller pink of <i>Phlox amœna</i>, and above
-to the type colour of Aubrietia and the newer strong
-purples such as the variety Dr. Mules. To the left,
-towards the oaks, the colouring is mostly purple, with
-strong tufts of the Spring Bitter Vetch (<i>Orobus vernus</i>),
-purple Wallflowers, and, under and behind the nuts,
-purple Honesty. Thin streams of white Tulips intermingle
-with other streams of pink Tulips that crown
-the angle and flow down again to the main path between
-ridges of double Arabis, white Iberis, and cloudy masses
-of the pretty pale yellow <i>Corydalis ochroleuca</i>, which
-spreads into a wide carpet under the Tree Peonies and
-Clematis garlands.</p>
-
-<p>Further along, just clear of the nuts, are some patches
-of <i>Dielytra spectabilis</i>, its graceful growth arching out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span>
-over the lower stature of pink Tulips and harmonising
-charmingly with the pinkish-green foliage of the Tree
-Peonies just behind. The pink Tulips are here in some
-quantity; they run boldly into pools of pale blue
-Myosotis, with more Iberis where the picture demands
-the strongest, deepest green, and more Corydalis where
-the softer, greyer tones will make it better.</p>
-
-<p>The space marked Shade, always in shade from
-the nuts and oaks, is planted with rather large patches
-of the handsome white-flowered <i>Dentaria</i>, the graceful
-North American <i>Uvularia grandiflora</i>, in habit like a
-small Solomon's Seal but with yellow flowers much
-larger in proportion; with Myrrhis and purple Honesty
-at the back and sheets of Sweet Woodruff to the front.</p>
-
-<p>There are Tree Peonies in the long border and the
-two others. It is difficult to grow them in my hot,
-dry, sandy soil, even though I make them a liberal
-provision of just such a compost as I think they will
-like. I have noticed that they do best when closely
-overshadowed by some other growing thing. In the
-two near beds there are some Mme. Alfred Carrière Roses
-that are trained to arch over to the angles, so to comfort
-and encourage the Peonies. These beds have an
-informal edging of <i>Stachys lanata</i>, one of the most useful
-of plants for grey effects. Through it come white
-Tulips in irregular patches.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="FURTHERROCKFROMG">
-<img src="images/i_065.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>"FURTHER ROCK," FROM</i> <b>G</b> <i>ON PLAN</i>.</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="FURTHERROCKFROMH">
-<img src="images/i_066.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>"FURTHER ROCK" FROM</i> <b>H</b> <i>ON PLAN: IBERIS, PHLOX STELLARIA AND
-PHLOX DIVARICATA, WHITE TULIPS AND BLUE IRIS</i>.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The long border has also Tree Peonies planted about
-two and a half feet from the edge. Partly to give the
-bed a sort of backbone, and partly to shelter the Tree
-Peonies, it has some bushes of <i>Veronica Traversi</i> and
-one or two <i>Leycesteria formosa</i>. In the middle of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span>
-length is a clump of <i>Lilium giganteum</i> and a biggish
-grouping of <i>Dielytra spectabilis</i>. All along the outer
-border there are patches and long straggling groups of
-the pretty dwarf Irises of the <i>pumila</i>, <i>olbiensis</i> and
-<i>chamæ-iris</i> sections, with others of the same class of
-stature and habit. Any bare spaces are filled with
-Wallflowers and Honesty in colours that accord with
-the general arrangement. The narrow border has
-mostly small shrubs, Berberis and so on, forming one
-mass with the hedge to the left, which consists of a
-double dry wall about four feet high, with earth between
-and a thick growth on the top of Berberis, <i>Rosa lucida</i>
-and Scotch Briers. Except the Berberis these make no
-show of flower within the blooming time of the spring
-garden, but the whole is excellent as a background.</p>
-
-<p>Red primroses are in the narrow border next to the
-cross-wall; the wall here is much lower than the longer
-one on the right. The Primroses are grouped with
-the reddish leaved <i>Heuchera Richardsoni</i>, the two
-together making a rich colour-harmony. Beyond them
-are scarlet Tulips. The small shaded rounds in this
-border and its continuation across the path into the
-near end of the main border are stout larch posts
-supporting a strong growth of Rose Mme. Alfred
-Carrière and <i>Clematis montana</i>. These have grown
-together into a solid continuously-intermingling mass,
-the path at C passing under a low arch of their united
-branches. The high wall on the right is also covered
-with flowering things of the early year, Morella Cherries,
-<i>Rubus deliciosus</i> and <i>Clematis montana</i>, some of this
-foaming over from the other side of the wall.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span></p>
-
-<p>The wall is a part, about a third of the length, of the
-high wall that protects the large border of summer and
-autumn flowers from the north, and that forms the
-dividing-line between the pleasure garden proper and
-the working garden beyond.</p>
-
-<p>On the plan are letters with arrows referring to the
-illustrations. The letter is at the spot where the
-camera stood; the arrow points to the middle of the
-picture. Thus the one taken from D shows two-thirds
-of the longest path with the end of the big wall
-and the Yew hedge that prolongs its line on the right
-and the Nut-trees on the left. The colouring on the
-right is of pale purple Aubrietia and double white
-Arabis, with pale Daffodils, and, at the back, groups
-of sulphur Crown Imperial.</p>
-
-<p>The more distant colouring is of brown Wallflower
-and red Tulip and the bright mahogany-coloured Crown
-Imperial. The picture from E is done from among
-the reds and strong yellows and looks to point C, and
-further, through the arch of Rose and Clematis, to the
-Peony garden beyond. The other illustrations show
-groups of colouring more in detail. The one from
-F looks at Near Rock from one side. Over the
-grey Stachys and its milk-white Tulips is seen the
-flowery mass of pale and deep lilac, and pinkish lilac
-with grey foliage, crowned with pink and white Tulips
-near the foot of the Nuts. The picture from G
-looks at the bit of bank called Further Rock with
-its big piece of sandstone that looks as if it came
-naturally out of the ground. Here is a mass of dead-white
-Iberis with Tulips of a softer white, then the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span>
-lilac white of <i>Phlox stellaria</i> and the bluish lilac of
-<i>Phlox divaricata</i>. The picture from H was done a
-few days later. It shows the further mass of <i>Phlox
-divaricata</i> more fully in bloom, and, among the white
-Tulips above, a pretty pale lilac-blue hybrid Iris and
-some taller stems of the common Blue Flag Iris just
-coming into blossom. This picture shows the value
-of the dark Yew hedge as a background to the flowers.
-Just at the back of the flowery bank are Hollies, and
-then the hedge. This has not yet come to its full
-height and the top still shows a ragged outline, but in
-two years' time it will have grown into shape.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="NEARROCKFROMF">
-<img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>"NEAR ROCK" FROM</i> <b>F</b> <i>ON PLAN: AUBRIETIAS, PHLOX AMŒNA AND
-WHITE AND PINK TULIP.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEPRIMROSEGARDEN">
-<img src="images/i_070.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE PRIMROSE GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Primrose garden is in a separate place among
-Oaks and Hazels. It is for my special strain of large
-yellow and white bunch Primroses, now arrived at a
-state of fine quality and development by a system of
-careful seed-selection that has been carried on for more
-than thirty years.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br />
-
-<small>BETWEEN SPRING AND SUMMER</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>When the Spring flowers are done, and before the full
-June days come with the great Flag Irises and the
-perennial Lupines, there is a kind of mid-season. If it
-can be given a space of ground it will be well bestowed.
-I have a place that I call the Hidden Garden, because
-it is in a corner that might so easily be overlooked if
-one did not know where to find it. No important
-path leads into it, though two pass within ten yards
-of it on either side. It is in a sort of clearing among
-Ilex and Holly, and the three small ways into it are
-devious and scarcely noticeable from the outside.
-The most important of these, marked 1 on the plan,
-passes between some clumps of overarching Bamboo
-and through a short curved tunnel of Yew and Ilex.
-Another, marked 2, is only just traceable among
-Berberis under a large Birch, and comes sharply
-round a tall Monterey Cypress. The third turns out
-of one of the shady woodland glades and comes into
-the little garden by some rough stone steps.</p>
-
-<p>The plan shows the simple arrangement; the paths
-following the most natural lines that the place suggests.
-The main path goes down some shallow, rough stone
-steps with a sunny bank to the left and a rocky mound<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>
-to the right. The mound is crowned with small
-shrubs, Alpine Rhododendrons and Andromeda. Both
-this and the left-hand bank have a few courses of
-rough dry-walling next the path on its lowest level.
-A little cross-path curves into the main one from the
-right.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="STEPSTOTHEHIDDENGARDEN">
-<img src="images/i_073.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>STEPS TO THE HIDDEN GARDEN AT</i> <b>3</b> <i>ON PLAN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="PHLOXDIVARICATAAND">
-<img src="images/i_074.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>PHLOX DIVARICATA AND ARENARIA MONTANA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The path leaves the garden again by a repetition of
-the rough stone steps. The mossy growth of <i>Arenaria
-balearica</i> clings closely to the stones on their cooler
-faces, and the frond-like growths of Solomon's Seal
-hang out on either side as a fitting prelude to the dim
-mysteries of the wide green wood-path beyond.</p>
-
-<p>It is a garden for the last days of May and the
-first fortnight of June.</p>
-
-<p>Passing through the Yew tunnel, the little place
-bursts on the sight with good effect. What is most
-striking is the beauty of the blue-lilac <i>Phlox divaricata</i>
-and that of two clumps of Tree Peony&mdash;the rosy
-Baronne d'Alès and the pale salmon-pink Comtesse
-de Tuder. The little garden, with its quiet environment
-of dark foliage, forbids the use of strong colouring,
-or perhaps one should say that it suggested a restriction
-of the scheme of colouring to the tenderer tones.
-There seemed to be no place here for the gorgeous
-Oriental Poppies, although they too are finest in partial
-shade, or for any strong yellows, their character
-needing wider spaces and clearer sunlight.</p>
-
-<p>The Tree Peonies are in two groups of the two
-kinds only; it seemed enough for the limited space.
-In front of Comtesse de Tuder is a group of <i>Funkia
-Sieboldi</i>, its bluish leaves harmonising delightfully<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>
-with the leaf-colour of the Peonies; next to them is
-a corner of glistening deep green Asarum. No other
-flowers of any size are near, but there are sheets of
-the tender yellow bloom and pale foliage of <i>Corydalis
-ochroleuca</i>, of the white-bloomed Woodruff, and the
-pale green leafage of Epimedium; and among them
-tufts of Lent Hellebores, also in fresh young leaf, and
-a backing of the feathery fronds of Lady Fern and of
-the large Solomon's Seal; with drooping garlands of
-<i>Clematis montana</i> hanging informally from some rough
-branching posts. Yew-trees are at the back, and
-then Beeches in tender young leaf.</p>
-
-<p>The foot of the near mound is a pink cloud of London
-Pride. Shooting up among it and just beyond is
-the white St. Bruno's Lily. More of this lovely little
-lily-like Anthericum is again a few feet further along,
-grouped with <i>Iris Cengialti</i>, one of the bluest of the
-Irises. The back of the mound has some of the
-tenderly tinted Caparne hybrid Irises two feet high,
-of pale lilac colouring, rising from among dark-leaved,
-white-bloomed Iberis, and next the path a pretty, large-flowered
-tufted Pansy that nearly matches the Iris.</p>
-
-<p>But the glory of the mound is the long stretch of
-blue-lilac <i>Phlox divaricata</i>, whose colour is again
-repeated by a little of the same on the sunny bank
-to the left. Here it is grouped with pale pink Scotch
-Brier, more pale yellow Corydalis and <i>Arenaria montana</i>
-smothered in its masses of white bloom. At the end of
-the bank the colour of the <i>Phlox divaricata</i> is deepened
-by sheaves of <i>Camassia esculenta</i> that spear up through
-it. The whole back of this bank has a free planting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>
-of graceful pale-coloured Columbines with long spurs,
-garden kinds that come easily from seed and that were
-originally derived from some North American species.
-They are pale yellow and warm white; some have the
-outer portion of the flower of a faint purple, much like
-that of some of the patches in an old, much-washed,
-cotton patchwork quilt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="MALEFERNINTHEHIDDENGARDEN">
-<img src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>MALE FERN IN THE HIDDEN GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="EXOCHORDAGRANDIFLORA">
-<img src="images/i_078.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="PLANOFTHEHIDDENGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_079.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_079thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>PLAN OF THE HIDDEN GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The dark trees on the right have rambling Roses
-growing into them&mdash;Paul's Carmine Pillar and the
-Himalayan <i>R. Brunonis</i>. The red Rose does not
-flower so freely here as on a pillar in sunlight, but its
-fewer stems clamber high into the Holly and the bloom
-shows in thin natural wreaths that are even more
-pleasing to an artist's eye than the more ordered
-abundance of the flowery post. At the foot of the
-Hollies hardy Ferns grow luxuriantly in the constant
-shade. A little later a few clumps of Lilies will spring
-up from among them; the lovely pink <i>rubellum</i>, the
-fine yellow <i>szovitzianum</i>, and the buff <i>testaceum</i>.</p>
-
-<p>On the left-hand side, behind the sunny bank, a
-Garland Rose comes through and tumbles out of a Yew,
-and some sprays of an old bush of the single <i>R. polyantha</i>,
-that has spread to a circumference of one hundred
-and fifty feet, have pushed their way through the Ilex.</p>
-
-<p>The Hollies and Ilexes all round are growing fast,
-and before many years are over the little garden will
-become too shady for the well-being of the flowers that
-now occupy it. It will then change its character
-and become a Fern garden.</p>
-
-<p>All gardening involves constant change. It is even
-more so in woodland. A young bit of wood such as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>
-mine is for ever changing. Happily, each new development
-reveals new beauty of aspect or new
-possibility of good treatment, such as, rightly apprehended
-and then guided, tends to a better state than
-before.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile the little tree-embowered garden has a
-quiet charm of its own. It seems to delight in its
-character of a Hidden Garden, and in the pleasant
-surprise that its sudden discovery provokes. For
-between it and its owner there is always a pretty little
-play of pretending that there is no garden there,
-and of being much surprised and delighted at finding,
-not only that there is one, but quite a pretty one.</p>
-
-<p>The Hidden Garden is so small in extent, and its
-boundaries are already so well grown, that there is no
-room for many of the beautiful things of the time of
-year. For May is the time for the blooming of the
-most important of our well-known flowering shrubs&mdash;Lilac,
-Guelder Rose, White Broom, Laburnum, and
-<i>Pyrus Malus floribunda</i>. But one shrub, as beautiful
-as any of these and as easily grown, seems to be forgotten.
-This is <i>Exochorda grandiflora</i>&mdash;related to the
-Spiræas. Its pearl-like buds have earned it the name
-of Pearl Bush, but its whole lovely bloom should before
-now have secured it a place in every good garden.</p>
-
-<p>Every one knows the Guelder Rose, with its round
-white flower-balls, but the wild shrub of which this
-is a garden variety is also a valuable ornamental bush
-and should not be neglected. It is a native plant,
-growing in damp places, such as the hedges of water-meadows
-and the sides of streams. The English name<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>
-is Water Elder. Its merit as a garden shrub does not
-lie, as in the Guelder Rose, in its bloom, but in its
-singularly beautiful fruit. This, in autumn, lights
-up the whole shrub with a ruddy radiance. Grown
-on drier ground than that of its natural habitat, it
-takes a closer, more compact form.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="EUPHORBIAWULFENII">
-<img src="images/i_083.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>EUPHORBIA WULFENII.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="IRISESANDLUPINES">
-<img src="images/i_084.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>IRISES AND LUPINES IN THE JUNE GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>White Broom is in flower from the middle of May
-to the second week of June. There is a fine Flag Iris
-of a rich purple colour called "Purple King." It is
-well to grow it just in front of some young bushes of
-White Broom. Then, if one of the hybrid Irises of
-pale lilac colour is there as well, and a bush of <i>Rosa
-altaica</i>, the colour-effect will be surprisingly beautiful.
-This Rose is the bolder-growing, Asiatic equivalent
-of our Burnet Rose (<i>R. spinosissima</i>), with the same
-lemon-white flowers. When any such group containing
-White Broom is planted, it should be remembered
-that the tendency of the Broom is to grow tall and
-leggy. It bears pruning, but it is a good plan to
-plant some extra ones behind the others. After a
-couple of years, if the front plants have grown out of
-bounds, the back ones can be bent down and fastened
-to sticks, so that their heads come in the required
-places. It is one of the many ways in which a pretty
-garden picture may be maintained from year to year
-by the exercise of a little thought and ingenuity. The
-undergrowth of such a group may be of Solomon's
-Seal at the back, and, if the bank or border is in sun,
-of a lower groundwork of Iberis and <i>Corydalis ochroleuca</i>,
-or, if it is shaded, of Tiarella, Woodruff or
-<i>Anemone sylvestris</i>. With these, for the sake of their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>
-tender green foliage, there may well be <i>Uvularia
-grandiflora</i> and <i>Epimedium pinnatum</i>.</p>
-
-<p>A wonderful plant of May is the great <i>Euphorbia
-Wulfenii</i>. It adapts itself to many ways of use, for,
-though the immense yellow-green heads of bloom are
-at their best in May, they are still of pictorial value in
-June and July, while the deep-toned, grey-blue foliage
-is in full beauty throughout the greater part of the
-year. It is valuable in boldly arranged flower borders,
-and holds its own among shrubs of moderate size, but
-I always think its best use would be in the boldest
-kind of rock-work.</p>
-
-<p>One of my desires that can never be fulfilled is to
-have a rocky hillside in full sun, so steep as to be
-almost precipitous, with walls of bare rock only broken
-by ledges that can be planted. I would have great
-groups of Yucca standing up against the sky and others
-in the rock-face, and some bushes of this great
-<i>Euphorbia</i> and only a few other plants, all of rather
-large grey effect; <i>Phlomis</i>, Lavender, Rosemary and
-Cistus, with <i>Othonna</i> hanging down in long sheets
-over the bare face of the warm rock. It would be a
-rock-garden on an immense scale, planted as Nature
-plants, with not many different things at a time.
-The restriction to a few kinds of plants would give
-the impression of spontaneous growth; of that large,
-free, natural effect that is so rarely achieved in artificial
-planting. Besides natural hillsides, there must
-be old quarries within or near the pleasure-grounds
-of many places in our islands where such a scheme of
-planting could worthily be carried out.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="PARTOFTHEGARLANDROSE">
-<img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>PART OF THE GARLAND ROSE AT THE ANGLE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br />
-
-<small>THE JUNE GARDEN</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>Beyond the lawn and a belt of Spanish Chestnut I
-have a little cottage that is known as the Hut. I
-lived in it for two years while my house was building,
-and may possibly live in it again for the sake of replenishing
-an over-drained exchequer, if the ideal
-well-to-do invalid flower-lover or some such very quiet
-summer tenant, to whom alone I could consent to
-surrender my dear home for a few weeks, should be
-presented by a kind Providence. Meanwhile it is
-always in good use for various purposes, such as seed-drying,
-<i>pot-pourri</i> preparing, and the like.</p>
-
-<p>The garden in front and at the back is mainly a
-June garden. It has Peonies, Irises, Lupines, and
-others of the best flowers of the season, and a few for
-later blooming. The entrance to the Hut is through
-Yews that arch overhead. Close to the right is a tall
-Holly with a <i>Clematis montana</i> growing into it and
-tumbling out at the top. The space of garden to the
-left, being of too deep a shape to be easily got at from
-the path on the one side and the stone paving on the
-other, has a kind of dividing backbone made of a
-double row of Rose hoops or low arches, rising from
-good greenery of Male Fern and the fern-like Sweet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span>
-Cicely. This handsome plant (<i>Myrrhis odorata</i>) is of
-great use in many ways. It will grow anywhere,
-and has the unusual merit of making a good show of
-foliage quite early in the year. It takes two years
-to get to a good size, sending its large, fleshy, aromatic
-roots deep down into the soil. By the end of May,
-when the bloom is over and the leaves are full grown,
-they can be cut right down, when the plant will at
-once form a new set of leaves that remain fresh for the
-rest of the summer. Its chief use is as a good foliage
-accompaniment or background to flowers, and no plant
-is better for filling up at the bases of shrubs that look
-a little leggy near the ground, or for any furnishing
-of waste or empty spaces, especially in shade. From
-among the Ferns and Myrrhis at the back of this bit
-of eastern border rise white Foxgloves, the great white
-Columbine, and the tall stems of white Peach-leaved
-Campanula. Nearer to the front are clumps of
-Peonies. But, as one of the most frequented paths
-passes along this eastern border, it was thought best
-not to confine it to June flowers only, but to have
-something also for the later months. All vacant
-places are therefore filled with Pentstemons and Snapdragons,
-which make a show throughout the summer;
-while for the early days of July there are clumps of the
-old garden Roses&mdash;Damask and Provence. The whole
-south-western angle is occupied by a well-grown
-Garland Rose that every summer is loaded with its
-graceful wreaths of bloom. It has never been trained
-or staked, but grows as a natural fountain; the
-branches are neither pruned nor shortened. The only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>
-attention it receives is that every three or four years
-the internal mass of old dead wood is cut right out,
-when the bush seems to spring into new life.</p>
-
-<p>Passing this angle and going along the path leading
-to the studio door in the little stone-paved court,
-there is a seat under an arbour formed by the Yews;
-the front of it has a Dundee Rambler Rose supported
-by a rough wooden framework. On the right, next
-the paving, are two large standard Roses with heads
-three and four feet through. They are old garden
-Roses, worked in cottage fashion on a common Dog-rose
-stock. One is Celeste, of loveliest tender rose
-colour, its broad bluish leaves showing its near relationship
-to <i>Rosa alba</i>; the other the white Mme. Plantier.
-This old Rose, with its abundant bunches of pure
-white flowers, always seems to me to be one of the
-most charming of the older garden kinds. It will
-grow in almost any way, and is delightful in all; as a
-pillar, as a hedge, as a bush, as a big cottage standard,
-or in the border tumbling about among early summer
-flowers. Like the Blush Gallica, which just precedes
-it in time of blooming, it is one of the old picture Roses.
-Both should be in quantity in every garden, and yet
-they are but rarely seen.</p>
-
-<p>The border next the paving has clumps of the old
-garden Peonies (<i>P. officinalis</i>). By the time these
-are over, towards the end of June, groups of the
-earlier orange Herring Lilies are in bloom. A thick
-and rather high Box edging neatly trims these borders,
-and favours the cottage-garden sentiment that is
-fostered in this region. At the back of the Yews that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>
-form the arbour is one end of the Hidden Garden.
-Going along the path, past the projection on the block-plan
-of the Hut, which represents the large ingle of the
-studio, we come to the other bit of June garden behind
-the little cottage. Here again, the space being over-wide,
-it is divided in the middle by a double border of
-Rosemary that is kept clipped and is not allowed to
-rise high enough to prevent access to the border on
-each side.</p>
-
-<p>On the side next the Hut the flowers are mostly of
-lilac and purple colouring with white. Pale lilac Irises,
-including the fine <i>I. pallida dalmatica</i> and the rosy
-lilac variety, Queen of the May, perennial Lupines,
-white, bluish lilac and purple&mdash;one of a conspicuous
-and rare deep red-purple of extreme richness without
-the slightest taint of a rank quality&mdash;a colour I can
-only call a strong wine-purple; then a clump of the
-feathery, ivory-white <i>Spiræa Aruncus</i>, the large
-Meadowsweet that is so fine by the side of alpine
-torrents. There are also some flesh-pink Albiflora
-Peonies and lower growths of Catmint, and of the
-grand blue-purple Cranesbill, <i>Geranium ibericum platyphyllum</i>;
-with white and pale yellow Spanish Irises
-in generous tufts springing up between. At the blunt
-angle nearly opposite the dovecote is a pink cloud of
-London Pride; beyond it pale yellow Violas with more
-white Spanish Iris, leading to a happy combination of
-the blue <i>Iris Cengialti</i> and the bushy Aster <i>Olearia
-Gunni</i>, smothered in its white starry bloom. An early
-flowering Flag Iris, named Chamæleon, nearly matches
-the colour of <i>I. Cengialti</i>; it is the bluest that I know<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>
-of the Flag Irises, and is planted between and around
-the Olearias to form part of the colour-picture.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ROSEBLUSHGALLICA">
-<img src="images/i_093.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>ROSE BLUSH GALLICA PLANTED ON THE TOP OF
-DRY WALLING.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SPANISHIRIS">
-<img src="images/i_094.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SPANISH IRIS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Beyond this group, and only separated from it by
-some pale yellow Irises, are two plants of the Dropmore
-Anchusa, marked A on the plan, of pure pale
-blue, and another clump of <i>Spiræa Aruncus</i>, marked
-S, and one of a good pure white Lupine, with some
-tall clear yellow Irises and white Foxgloves. Now
-the colouring changes, passing through a group or
-two of the rich half-tones of Irises of the <i>squalens</i>
-section to the perennial Poppies; <i>P. rupifragum</i>
-nearest the path and, next to it, <i>P. pilosum</i>; both of
-a rich apricot colour. Backing these is a group of
-the larger hybrid that nearly always occurs in gardens
-where there are both <i>P. rupifragum</i> and <i>P. orientale</i>.
-In appearance it is a small <i>orientale</i> with a strong look
-of <i>rupifragum</i> about the foliage. As a garden plant
-it has the advantages of being of an intermediate size
-and of having a long season of bloom, a quality no
-doubt inherited from <i>rupifragum</i>, which will flower
-more or less throughout the summer if the seed-pods
-are removed. A plant of Oriental Poppy of the tone
-of orange-scarlet that I know as red-lead colour,
-and some deep orange Lilies complete this strongly
-coloured group.</p>
-
-<p>In the north-western clump, where there are some
-Thorn-trees and two Thuyas, the dominant feature
-is the great bush of an old garden rambling Rose that
-looks as if its parentage was somewhere between
-<i>sempervirens</i> and <i>arvensis</i>. I can neither remember
-how I came by it nor match it with any nursery kind.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span>
-It stands nearly opposite the Hut kitchen window,
-and when in full bloom actually sheds light into the
-room. I know it as the Kitchen Rose. The diameter
-of the bush is even greater than the plan shows, for
-it overwhelms the nearest Thuya and rushes through
-the Thorn, and many of its shoots are within hand-reach
-of the back path. The rest of this clump is
-occupied by plants of tall habit&mdash;the great Mullein
-(<i>Verbascum orientale</i>), the Giant Cow-Parsnip (<i>Heracleum</i>),
-and white Foxgloves.</p>
-
-<p>The plan shows how the border of early bulbs,
-described in a former chapter (now a mass of hardy
-Ferns, as shown at p. 7), lies in relation to this part
-of the garden. There is also a grand mass of Oriental
-Poppy and Orange Lilies in half-shade on the other
-side of the path, where it turns and is bordered with
-Berberis. This makes a fine distant effect of strong
-colour looking north-west from the southern end of
-the bulb-border.</p>
-
-<p>I greatly wish I could have some other June borders
-for the still better use of the Flag Irises, but not only
-have I quite as much dressed ground as I can afford
-to keep up, but the only space where such borders
-could be made has to be nursery-ground of plants for
-sale. But though I am denied this pleasure myself,
-I should like to suggest it to others, and therefore give
-plans of two borders of different colourings. There
-would be no great harm if they came opposite each
-other, though perhaps, as colour-schemes, they would
-be rather better seen singly and quite detached from
-each other.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEJUNEGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_097.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_097thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE JUNE GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="IRISANDLUPINEBORDERS">
-<a href="images/i_099.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_099thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>IRIS AND LUPINE BORDERS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p>
-
-<p>It must be remembered, as in all cases of planting
-flower borders, that they cannot be expected to show
-their full beauty the year after planting. Irises will
-give a few blooms the first season, but are not in
-strength till their second and third years. China
-Roses must have time to grow. Tree Lupines must be
-planted young, and, though they make rapid growth,
-they also do not fill their spaces till the third year.
-Lupine Somerset is a desirable hybrid, not quite
-a true Tree Lupine, though it has a half-woody growth.
-Its best colour is a clear, lively light yellow, but it
-readily varies from seed to whitish or washy purplish
-tints. As the seedlings often show bloom the first
-season in the seed-bed, the colours should be noted
-and marked, for some of the light purples are pretty
-things, with more refinement of character than the
-same colourings in the old Tree Lupines. Both the
-tree and hybrid kinds may have their lives much
-prolonged&mdash;for if they are not specially treated they
-are short-lived things&mdash;by judicious pruning. After
-flowering, each branch should be cut well back. It
-is not enough to cut away the flowers, but every branch
-should be shortened about two-thirds as soon as the
-bloom is over and the seed-pods begin to form.</p>
-
-<p>The plans show the two schemes of colouring. The
-upper is of white, lilac, purple and pink, with grey
-foliage; the lower of white, yellow, bronze-yellow
-and, for the most part, rich green foliage. They
-will show mainly as Iris and Lupine borders, and
-are intended to display the beauty of these two
-grand plants of early summer. The kinds of Iris are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>
-carefully considered for their height, time of blooming,
-and colour-value. In the yellow border is one patch
-of clear, pale pure blue, the Dropmore Anchusa,
-grouped with pale yellows and white.</p>
-
-<p>In the purple border are some important front-edge
-patches of the beautiful Catmint (<i>Nepeta Mussini</i>), a
-plant that can hardly be over-praised. The illustration
-shows it in a part of a border-front that is to be
-for August. For a good three weeks in June it makes
-this border a pretty place, although the Catmint is
-its only flower. But with the white-grey woolly
-patches of Stachys and the half-grown bushes of
-Gypsophila, and the Lavender and other plants of
-greyish foliage, the picture is by no means incomplete.
-Its flowery masses, seen against the warm yellow of
-the sandy path, give the impression of remarkably
-strong and yet delightfully soft colouring. The colour
-itself is a midway purple, between light and dark, of
-just the most pleasing quality. As soon as the best
-of the bloom is done it is carefully cut over; then the
-lateral shoots just below the main flower-spike that
-has been taken out will gain strength and bloom again
-at the border's best show-time in August. In another
-double flower border that is mostly for the September-blooming
-Michaelmas Daisies the Catmint is cut back
-a little later.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>One of the joys of June is the beauty of the Scotch
-Briers. On the south side of the house there are Figs
-and Vines, Rosemary and China Roses; a path and
-then some easy stone steps leading up to the strip of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span>
-lawn some fifty feet wide that skirts the wood. To
-right and left of the steps, for a length equal to that
-of the house-front, is a hedge of these charming little
-Roses. They are mostly double white, but some are
-rosy and some yellow. When it is not in flower the
-mass of small foliage is pleasant to see, and even in
-winter leaflessness the tangle of close-locked branches
-has an appearance of warm brown comfort that makes
-it good to have near a house.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="WHITETREELUPINE">
-<img src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>WHITE TREE LUPINE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CATMINTINJUNE">
-<img src="images/i_104.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CATMINT IN JUNE IN THE GREY AUGUST BORDER.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>June is also the time of some of the best of the
-climbing plants and slightly tender shrubs that we
-have against walls and treat as climbers, such as
-<i>Solamum crispum</i> and <i>Abutilon vitifolium</i> and the
-hardy <i>Clematis montana</i>; but some notes on these
-will be offered in a further chapter.</p>
-
-<p>One is always watching and trying for good combinations
-of colour that occur or that may be composed.
-Besides such as are shown in the plans, the following
-have been noted for June:</p>
-
-<p>In rock-work the tiny China Rose Pompon de Paris,
-also the tender pink Fairy Rose, with pale lilac tufted
-Pansy and <i>Achillea umbellata</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The pretty pale pink dwarf Rose Mignonette, with
-the lilac of Catmint (<i>Nepeta Mussini</i>) and the grey-white
-foliage of Stachys and <i>Cineraria maritima</i>.</p>
-
-<p>In a cool, retired place in a shrubbery margin, away
-from other flowers, the misty red-grey-purple of
-<i>Thalictrum purpureum</i> with the warm white foam-colour
-of <i>Spiræa Aruncus</i>.</p>
-
-<p>On bold rock-work, a mass of a fine-coloured strain
-of Valerian (<i>Centranthus</i>) with a deep scarlet-crimson<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span>
-Snapdragon. This is a success of reciprocally becoming
-texture as well as colour; the texture having that
-satisfying quality that one recognises in the relation
-of the cut and uncut portions of the fine old Italian
-cut-velvets.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SCOTCHBRIARS">
-<img src="images/i_107.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SCOTCH BRIARS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GERANIUMIBERICUMPLATYPHYLLUM">
-<img src="images/i_108.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GERANIUM IBERICUM PLATYPHYLLUM;<br />
-THE BEST OF THE CRANEBILLS.</i>
-(<i>See page <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</i>)</div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br />
-
-<small>THE MAIN HARDY FLOWER BORDER</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>The big flower border is about two hundred feet long
-and fourteen feet wide. It is sheltered from the north
-by a solid sandstone wall about eleven feet high clothed
-for the most part with evergreen shrubs&mdash;Bay and
-Laurustinus, Choisya, Cistus and Loquat. These show
-as a handsome background to the flowering plants.
-They are in a three-foot-wide border at the foot of the
-wall; then there is a narrow alley, not seen from the
-front, but convenient for access to the wall shrubs and
-for working the back of the border.</p>
-
-<p>As it is impossible to keep any one flower border
-fully dressed for the whole summer, and as it suits me
-that it should be at its best in the late summer, there
-is no attempt to have it full of flowers as early as June.
-Another region belongs to June; so that at that time
-the big border has only some incidents of good bloom,
-though the ground is rapidly covering with the strong
-patches, most of them from three to five years old, of
-the later blooming perennials. But early in the month
-there are some clumps of the beautiful <i>Iris Pallida
-dalmatica</i> in the regions of grey foliage, and of the
-splendid blue-purple bloom of <i>Geranium ibericum
-platyphyllum</i>, the best of the large Cranesbills, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>
-slow-growing <i>Dictamnus Fraxinella</i> (the white variety),
-and Meadowsweets white and pink, Foxgloves and
-Canterbury Bells, and to the front some long-established
-sheets of <i>Iberis sempervirens</i> that have grown right
-on to the path. The large Yuccas, <i>Y. gloriosa</i> and
-<i>Y. recurva</i> are throwing up their massive spikes, though
-it will be July before they actually flower, and the
-blooms on some bushes of the great <i>Euphorbia Wulfenii</i>,
-although they were flowers of May and their almost
-yellow colour is turning greener, are still conspicuous
-and ornamental. Then the plants in the middle of
-the wall, <i>Choisya ternata</i> and <i>Clematis montana</i> are still
-full of white bloom and the Guelder Rose is hanging
-out its great white balls. I like to plant the Guelder
-Rose and <i>Clematis montana</i> together. Nothing does
-better on north or east walls, and it is pleasant to see
-the way the Clematis flings its graceful garlands over
-and through the stiff branches of the Viburnum.</p>
-
-<p>The more brilliant patches of colour in the big border
-in June are of Oriental Poppies intergrouped with
-Gypsophila, which will cover their space when they
-have died down, and the earlier forms of <i>Lilium croceum</i>
-of that dark orange colour that almost approaches
-scarlet.</p>
-
-<p>During the first week of June any bare spaces of the
-border are filled up with half-hardy annuals, and some
-of what we are accustomed to call bedding-plants&mdash;such
-as Geranium, Salvia, Calceolaria, Begonia, Gazania and
-Verbena. The half-hardy annuals are African Marigold,
-deep orange and pale sulphur, pure white single
-Petunia, tall Ageratum, tall striped Maize, white<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>
-Cosmos, sulphur Sunflower, <i>Phlox Drummondi</i>, Nasturtiums,
-and <i>Trachelium cœruleum</i>. Dahlias were
-planted out in May, and earlier still the Hollyhocks,
-quite young plants that are to bloom in August and
-September; the autumn-planted ones flowering earlier.
-The ground was well cleaned of weeds before these were
-planted, and, soon after, the whole border had a good
-mulch of a mixture of half-rotted leaves and old hotbed
-stuff. This serves the double purpose of keeping
-the soil cool and of affording gradual nutriment when
-water is given.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEFLOWERBORDERINLATESUMMER">
-<img src="images/i_111.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE FLOWER BORDER IN LATE SUMMER: YUCCA, HYDRANGEA, SNAPDRAGON,
-LILIUM AURATUM AND EARLY ASTERS, WITH GREY FOLIAGE
-OF CINERARIA MARITIMA, SANTOLINA AND ELYMUS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THECROSSWALKDIVIDING">
-<img src="images/i_112.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE CROSS WALK DIVIDING THE FLOWER BORDER:<br />
-YUCCA, HYDRANGEA, MEGASEA AND STACHYS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>The planting of the border is designed to show a
-distinct scheme of colour-arrangement. At the two
-ends there is a groundwork of grey and glaucous foliage&mdash;Stachys,
-Santolina, <i>Cineraria maritima</i>, Sea Kale
-and Lyme Grass, with darker foliage, also of grey
-quality, of Yucca, <i>Clematis recta</i> and Rue. With this,
-at the near or western end, there are flowers of pure
-blue, grey-blue, white, palest yellow and palest pink;
-each colour partly in distinct masses and partly intergrouped.
-The colouring then passes through stronger
-yellows to orange and red. By the time the middle
-space of the border is reached the colour is strong and
-gorgeous, but, as it is in good harmonies, it is never
-garish. Then the colour-strength recedes in an inverse
-sequence through orange and deep yellow to pale yellow,
-white and palest pink, with the blue-grey foliage.
-But at this, the eastern end, instead of the pure blues
-we have purples and lilacs.</p>
-
-<p>Looked at from a little way forward, for a wide space<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>
-of grass allows this point of view, the whole border
-can be seen as one picture, the cool colouring at the
-ends enhancing the brilliant warmth of the middle.
-Then, passing along the wide path next the border the
-value of the colour-arrangement is still more strongly
-felt. Each portion now becomes a picture in itself,
-and every one is of such a colouring that it best prepares
-the eye, in accordance with natural law, for what is to
-follow. Standing for a few moments before the end-most
-region of grey and blue, and saturating the eye
-to its utmost capacity with these colours, it passes
-with extraordinary avidity to the succeeding yellows.
-These intermingle in a pleasant harmony with the reds
-and scarlets, blood-reds and clarets, and then lead
-again to yellows. Now the eye has again become saturated,
-this time with the rich colouring, and has therefore,
-by the law of complementary colour, acquired
-a strong appetite for the greys and purples. These
-therefore assume an appearance of brilliancy that they
-would not have had without the preparation provided
-by their recently received complementary colour.</p>
-
-<p>There are well-known scientific toys illustrating this
-law. A short word, printed in large red letters, is
-looked at for half a minute. The eyes are shut and
-an image of the same word appears, but the lettering
-is green. Many such experiments may be made in
-the open garden. The brilliant orange African Marigold
-has leaves of a rather dull green colour. But look
-steadily at the flowers for thirty seconds in sunshine
-and then look at the leaves. The leaves appear to be
-bright blue!</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEEASTEND">
-<img src="images/i_115.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE EAST END OF THE FLOWER BORDER: LILIUM LONGIFLORUM, ECHINOPS,
-PURPLE CLEMATIS, CAMPANULAS PYRAMIDALIS AND LOCHIFLORA,
-FOLIAGE OF SEAKALE, SANTOLINA AND CINERARIA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ELEVATION">
-<a href="images/i_117nsm.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_117thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>ELEVATION: HEIGHT-LINE OF BACK PLANTS.</i><br /><i>PLAN OF THE MAIN FLOWER BORDER.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span></p>
-
-<p>Even when a flower border is devoted to a special
-season, as mine is given to the time from mid-July to
-October, it cannot be kept fully furnished without
-resorting to various contrivances. One of these is the
-planting of certain things that will follow in season of
-bloom and that can be trained to take each other's
-places. Thus, each plant of <i>Gypsophila paniculata</i>
-when full grown covers a space a good four feet wide.
-On each side of it, within reasonable distance of the
-root, I plant Oriental Poppies. These make their leaf
-and flower growth in early summer when the Gypsophila
-is still in a young state. The Poppies will have
-died down by the time the Gypsophila is full grown
-and has covered them. After this has bloomed the
-seed-pods turn brown, and though a little of this
-colouring is not harmful in the autumn border, yet it
-is not wanted in such large patches. We therefore
-grow at its foot, or within easy reach, some of the
-trailing Nasturtiums and lead them up so that they
-cover the greater part of the brown seed-spray.</p>
-
-<p>Delphiniums, which are indispensable for July, leave
-bare stems with quickly yellowing leafage when the
-flowers are over. We plant behind them the white
-Everlasting Pea, and again behind that Clematis
-Jackmanni. When the Delphiniums are over, the
-rapidly forming seed-pods are removed, the stems are
-cut down to just the right height, and the white Peas
-are trained over them. When the Peas go out of bloom
-in the middle of August, the Clematis is brought over.
-It takes some years for these two plants to become
-established; in the case of those I am describing the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span>
-Pea has been four or five years planted and the Clematis
-seven. They cannot be hurried, indeed in my garden
-it is difficult to get the Clematis to grow at all. But
-good gardening means patience and dogged determination.
-There must be many failures and losses,
-but by always pushing on there will also be the reward
-of success. Those who do not know are apt to think
-that hardy flower gardening of the best kind is easy.
-It is not easy at all. It has taken me half a lifetime
-merely to find out what is best worth doing, and a
-good slice out of another half to puzzle out the ways
-of doing it.</p>
-
-<p>In addition to these three plants that I grow over
-one another I am now adding a fourth&mdash;the September-blooming
-<i>Clematis Flammula</i>. It must not be supposed
-that they are just lumped one over another so that the
-under ones have their leafy growths smothered. They
-are always being watched, and, bit by bit, the earlier
-growths are removed as soon as their respective plants
-are better without them.</p>
-
-<p>Then there is the way of pulling down tall plants
-whose natural growth is upright. At the back of the
-yellow part of the border are some plants of a form of
-<i>Helianthus orgyalis</i>, trained down, as described later
-at p. 69. But other plants can be treated in the same
-way; the tall Rudbeckia Golden Glow, and Dahlias
-and Michaelmas Daisies. The tall Snapdragons can
-also be pulled down and made to cover a surprising
-space of bare ground with flowering side-shoots.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GOODSTAKING">
-<img src="images/i_121.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GOOD STAKING&mdash;CAMPANULA PERSICIFOLIA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CAREFULSTAKING">
-<img src="images/i_122.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CAREFUL STAKING&mdash;THE LATER MICHAELMAS DAISIES.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>As it is still impossible to prevent the occurrence of
-a blank here and there, or as the scene, viewed as a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span>
-picture, may want some special accentuation or
-colouring, there is the way of keeping a reserve of
-plants in pots and dropping them in where they may
-be wanted. The thing that matters is that, in its
-season, the border shall be kept full and beautiful;
-by what means does not matter in the least. For this
-sort of work some of the most useful plants are Hydrangeas,
-<i>Lilium longiflorum</i>, <i>candidum</i> and <i>auratum</i>,
-and <i>Campanula pyramidalis</i>, both white and blue, and,
-for foliage, <i>Funkia grandiflora</i>, <i>F. Sieboldi</i> and hardy
-Ferns.</p>
-
-<p>An important matter is that of staking and supporting.
-The rule, as I venture to lay it down, is that
-sticks and stakes must never show. They must be so
-arranged that they give the needful support, while
-allowing the plant its natural freedom; but they must
-remain invisible. The only time when they are tolerated
-is for the week or two when they have been put in for
-Dahlias, when the plants have not yet grown up to
-cover them.</p>
-
-<p>Michaelmas Daisies we stake with great care in June,
-putting in some stiff branching spray of oak or chestnut
-among the growths and under their fronts. At the
-end of June we also nip the tops of some of the forward
-growths of the plants so as to vary the outline.</p>
-
-<p>There are two borders of Michaelmas Daisies, one
-for the earlier sorts that flower in September and the
-other for the October kinds. They are in places that
-need not often be visited except in the blooming season,
-therefore we allow the supporting spray to be seen
-while the plants are growing. But early in August,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span>
-in the case of the September border, and early in
-September in the case of the one for October, we go
-round and regulate the plants, settling them among
-the sticks in their definite positions. When this is
-done every atom of projecting spray is cut away with
-the <i>sécateur</i>.</p>
-
-<p>I hold that nothing unsightly should be seen in the
-garden. The shed for sticks and stakes is a lean-to at
-one end of the barn, showing to the garden. The roof
-had to be made at a very low pitch, and there was no
-roofing material suitable but galvanized iron. But a
-depth of four inches of peaty earth was put over the
-iron, and now it is a garden of Stonecrops and other
-plants that flourish in shallow soil in a hot exposure.</p>
-
-<p>To prevent undue disappointment, those who wish
-for beautiful flower-borders and whose enthusiasm is
-greater than their knowledge should be reminded that
-if a border is to be planted for pictorial effect, it is
-impossible to maintain that effect and to have the
-space well filled for any period longer than three
-months, and that even for such a time there will have
-to be contrivances such as have been described.</p>
-
-<p>It should also be borne in mind that a good hardy
-flower border cannot be made all at once. Many of
-the most indispensable perennials take two, three or
-even more years to come to their strength and beauty.
-The best way is to plant the border by a definite plan,
-placing each group of plants as it shall be when fully
-developed. Then for the first year or two a greater
-number of half-hardy annuals and biennials than will
-eventually be needed should be used to fill the spaces<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span>
-that have not yet been taken up by the permanent
-plants. The best of these are Pentstemons and Snapdragons,
-the Snapdragons grown both as annuals and
-biennials, for so an extended season of bloom is secured.
-Then there should be African and French Marigolds,
-the smaller annual Sunflowers, Zinnias, Plume Celosias,
-China Asters, Stocks, Foxgloves, Mulleins, Ageratum,
-Phlox Drummondi and Indian Pinks; also hardy
-annuals&mdash;Lupines of several kinds, <i>Chrysanthemum
-coronarium</i>, the fine pink Mallows, Love-in-a-Mist,
-Nasturtiums or any others that are liked.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII<br />
-
-<small>THE FLOWER BORDER IN JULY</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>Towards the end of July the large flower border begins
-to show its scheme. Until then, although it has been
-well filled with growing plants, there has been no
-attempt to show its whole intention. But now this
-is becoming apparent. The two ends, as already
-described, are of grey foliage, with, at the near end,
-flowers of pale blue, white and lightest yellow. The
-tall spikes of pale blue Delphinium are over, and now
-there are the graceful grey-blue flowers of <i>Campanula
-lactiflora</i> that stand just in front of the great Larkspurs.
-At the back is a white Everlasting Pea, four years
-planted and now growing tall and strong. The overblown
-flowers of the Delphinium have been removed,
-but their stems have been left just the right height for
-supporting the growth of the white Pea, which is now
-trained over them and comes forward to meet the
-pale blue-white Campanula. In front of this there is
-a drift of Rue giving a beautiful effect of dim grey
-colour and softened shadow; it is crowned by its
-spreading corymbs of pale yellow bloom that all rise
-nearly to a level. Again in front is the grand glaucous
-foliage of Sea Kale. A little further along, and towards
-the back, is a bush of Golden Privet, taking up and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>
-continuing the pale yellow of the Rue blossom, and
-forming a kind of groundwork to a group of the fine
-Mullein <i>Verbascum phlomoides</i> now fully out. Just
-below this is a clump of the Double Meadowsweet,
-a mass of warm white flower-foam. Intergrouped are
-tall Snapdragons, white and palest yellow. Then
-forward are the pale blue-green sword-blades of <i>Iris
-pallida dalmatica</i> that flowered in June. This is one
-of the few Irises admitted to the border, but it is here
-because it has the quality, rare among its kind, of
-maintaining its great leaves in beauty to near the
-end of the year. Quite to the front are lower growing
-plants of purest blue&mdash;the Cape Daisy (<i>Agathea
-cœlestis</i>) and blue Lobelia.</p>
-
-<p>Now we pass to a rather large group of <i>Eryngium
-oliverianum</i>, the fine kind that is commonly but
-wrongly called <i>E. amethystinum</i>. It is a deep-rooting
-perennial that takes three to four years to become
-strongly established. In front of this are some pale
-and darker blue Spiderworts (<i>Tradescantia virginica</i>),
-showing best in cloudy weather. At the back is
-<i>Thalictrum flavum</i>, whose bloom is a little overpast,
-though it still shows some of its foamy-feathery pale
-yellow. Next we come to stronger yellows, with a
-middle mass of a good home-grown form of <i>Coreopsis
-lanceolata</i>. This is fronted by a stretch of <i>Helenium
-pumilum</i>. Behind the Coreopsis are <i>Achillea Eupatorium</i>
-and yellow Cannas.</p>
-
-<p>Now the colour strengthens with the Scarlet Balm
-or Bergamot, intergrouped with <i>Senecio artemisiæfolius</i>,
-a plant little known but excellent in the flower<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span>
-border. A few belated Orange Lilies have their colour
-nearly repeated by the Gazanias next to the path.
-The strong colour is now carried on by <i>Lychnis Chalcedonica</i>,
-scarlet Salvia, <i>Lychnis haageana</i> (a fine plant
-that is much neglected), and some of the dwarf Tropæolums
-of brightest scarlet. After this we gradually
-return to the grey-blues, whites and pale yellows,
-with another large patch of <i>Eryngium oliverianum</i>,
-white Everlasting Pea, Calceolaria, and the splendid
-leaf-mass of a wide and high plant of <i>Euphorbia
-Wulfenii</i>, which, with the accompanying Yuccas, rises
-to a height far above my head. Passing between a
-clump of Yuccas on either side is the cross-walk
-leading by an arched gateway through the wall. The
-border beyond this is a shorter length, and has a whole
-ground of grey foliage&mdash;Stachys, Santolina, Elymus,
-<i>Cineraria maritima</i>, and Sea Kale. Then another
-group of Rue, with grey-blue foliage and pale yellow
-bloom, shows near the extreme end against the full
-green of the young summer foliage of the Yew arbour
-that comes at the end of the border. Again at this
-end is the tall <i>Campanula lactiflora</i>. In the nearer
-middle a large mass of purple Clematis is trained
-upon stiff, branching spray, and is beginning to show
-its splendid colour, while behind, and looking their
-best in the subdued light of the cloudy morning on
-which these notes are written, are some plants of
-<i>Verbascum phlomoides</i>, ten feet high, showing a great
-cloud of pure pale yellow. They owe their vigour
-to being self-sown seedlings, never transplanted.
-Instead of having merely a blooming spike, as is the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>
-usual way of those that are planted, these have abundant
-side branches. They dislike bright sunshine,
-only expanding fully in shade or when the day is
-cloudy and inclined to be rainy. Close to them, rising
-to the wall's whole eleven feet of height, is a <i>Cistus
-cyprius</i>, bearing a quantity of large white bloom with
-a deep red spot at the base of each petal.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="WHITEROSELAGUIRLANDE">
-<img src="images/i_129.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>WHITE ROSE LA GUIRLANDE; GREY BORDERS BEYOND.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISRECTA">
-<img src="images/i_130.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS RECTA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Though there is as yet but little bloom in this end
-of the border the picture is complete and satisfying.
-Each one of the few flower-groups tells to the utmost,
-while the intervening masses of leafage are in themselves
-beautiful and have the effect of being relatively
-well disposed. There is also such rich promise of
-flower-beauty to come that the mind is filled with glad
-anticipation, besides feeling content for the time being
-with what it has before it. There is one item of
-colouring that strikes the trained eye as specially
-delightful. It is a bushy mass of <i>Clematis recta</i>, now
-out of bloom. It occurs between the overhanging
-purple Clematis and the nearer groups of <i>Cineraria
-maritima</i> and Santolina. The leaves are much deeper
-in tone than these and have a leaden sort of blueness,
-but the colouring, both of the parts in light and even
-more of the mysterious shadows, is in the highest
-degree satisfactory and makes me long for the appreciative
-presence of the rare few friends who are artists
-both on canvas and in their gardens, and most of all
-for that of one who is now dead<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> but to whom I
-owe, with deepest thankfulness, a precious memory of
-forty years of helpful and sympathetic guidance and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>
-encouragement in the observation and study of colour-beauty.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The late H. B. Brabazon.</p></div>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>One cannot write of the garden in July without a
-word of the Roses. Besides the bushy garden Roses,
-and the kinds of special charm, such as Damask,
-Provence, Moss and China, those that most nearly
-concern the garden for beauty and pictorial effect
-are the rambling and climbing Roses that flower in
-clusters.</p>
-
-<p>In "Roses for English Gardens" I dealt at some
-length with the many ways of using them; here I
-must only touch upon one or two of these ways. But
-I wish to remind my readers of the great value of
-these free Roses for running up through such trees as
-Yews or Hollies in regions where garden joins hands
-with woodland, and also of their great usefulness for
-forming lines of arch and garland as an enclosure to
-some definite space. I have them like this forming
-the boundary on two sides of a garden of long beds,
-whose other two sides are a seven-foot wall and the
-back of a stable and loft. Just beyond the arch in
-the picture (p. <a href="#WHITEROSELAGUIRLANDE">60</a>), and dividing the little garden in
-two, is the short piece of double border that is
-devoted to August.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="DELPHINIUMBELLADONNA">
-<img src="images/i_133.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>DELPHINIUM BELLADONNA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CANTERBURYBELLS">
-<img src="images/i_134.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CANTERBURY BELLS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The other long beds in this region are for special
-combinations, some of them of July flowers. Orange
-Lilies are with the beautiful <i>Clematis recta</i>, a plant
-but little known though it is easy to grow and is one
-of the best of summer flowers. One bed is for
-blue colouring with grey foliage. Here is the lovely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>
-Delphinium Belladonna, with flowers of a blue purer
-than that of any others of its beautiful kind. It never
-grows tall, nor has it the strong, robust aspect of
-the larger ones, but what it lacks in vigour is more
-than made up for by the charming refinement of the
-whole plant. In the same bed are the other pure blues
-of the rare double Siberian Larkspur, and the single
-allied kind <i>Delphinium grandiflorum</i>, of <i>Salvia patens</i>
-and of the Cape Daisy <i>Agathea cœlestis</i>. Between the
-clumps of Belladonna are bushes of white Lavender,
-and the whole is carpeted and edged with the white
-foliage of <i>Artemisia stelleriana</i>, the quite hardy plant
-that is such a good substitute for the tenderer
-<i>Cineraria maritima</i>.</p>
-
-<p>Among the best flowers of July that have a place
-in this garden are the Pentstemons planted last year.
-We grow them afresh from cuttings every autumn,
-planting them out in April. They are not quite hardy,
-and a bad winter may destroy all the last year's plants.
-But if these can be saved they bloom in July, whereas
-those planted in the spring of the year do not flower
-till later. So we protect the older plants with fir-boughs
-and generally succeed in saving them. Old
-plants of Snapdragon are also now in flower. They
-too are a little tender in the open, although they
-are safe in dry-walling with the roots out of the
-way of frost and the crowns kept dry among the
-stones.</p>
-
-<p>Much use is made of a dwarf kind of Lavender, that
-is also among the best of the July flowers. The whole
-size of the plant is about one-third that of the ordinary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>
-kind; the flowers are darker in colour and the time
-of blooming a good month earlier. It has a different
-use in gardening, as the flowers, being more crowded
-and of a deeper tint, make a distinct colour-effect.
-Besides its border use it is a plant for dry banks, tops
-of rock-work and dry-walling.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ROSETHEGARLAND">
-<img src="images/i_137.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>ROSE THE GARLAND IN A SILVER HOLLY.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ERYNGIUMOLIVERIANUM">
-<img src="images/i_138.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>ERYNGIUM OLIVERIANUM.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span></p>
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII<br />
-
-<small>THE FLOWER BORDER IN AUGUST</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>By the second week of August the large flower border
-is coming to its best. The western grey end, with its
-main planting of hoary and glaucous foliage&mdash;Yucca,
-Sea Kale, <i>Cineraria maritima</i>, Rue, Elymus, Santolina,
-Stachys, &amp;c.&mdash;now has <i>Yucca flaccida</i> in flower.
-This neat, small Yucca, one of the varieties or near
-relatives of <i>filamentosa</i>, is a grand plant for late summer.
-A well-established clump throws up a quantity of
-flower-spikes of that highly ornamental character
-that makes the best of these fine plants so valuable.
-White Everlasting Pea, planted about three feet
-from the back, is trained on stout pea-sticks over the
-space occupied earlier by the Delphiniums and the
-Spiræas. A little of it runs into a bush of Golden
-Privet. This Golden Privet is one of the few shrubs
-that has a place in the flower border. Its clean,
-cheerful, bright yellow gives a note of just the right
-colour all through the summer. It has also a solidity
-of aspect that enhances by contrast the graceful lines
-of the foliage of a clump of the great Japanese striped
-grass <i>Eulalia</i>, which stands within a few feet of it,
-seven feet high, shooting upright, but with the ends
-of the leaves recurved.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span></p>
-
-<p>Snapdragons, tall white and tall yellow, spire up
-five feet high, following the earlier Foxgloves. At
-the back is the pretty pink Dahlia Asia, with sulphur
-and pale pink Hollyhocks. A little further along,
-and staked out so as to take the place of the clumps
-of <i>Verbascum Chaixii</i> that were so fine in the end of
-June, is Dahlia Mrs. Hawkins&mdash;palest yellow with a
-slight pink flush. Forward is a group of a Pentstemon
-of palest pink colouring named Spitzberg, that I had
-from Messrs. Barr's nursery, then a patch or two
-of palest blue Spiderwort, and, quite to the front,
-in any spaces there may be among the grey foliage,
-Lobelia "Cobalt Blue," the taller <i>Lobelia tenuior</i>, and
-the pretty little blue-flowered Cape Daisy, <i>Agathea
-cœlestis</i>.</p>
-
-<p>The whole border is backed by a stone wall eleven
-feet high, now fully clothed with shrubs and plants
-that take their place in the colour-scheme, either for
-tint of bloom or mass of foliage. Thus the red-leaved
-Claret Vine shows as background to the rich red region
-and <i>Robinia hispida</i> stands where its pink clusters
-will tell rightly; Choisya and <i>Cistus cyprius</i> where
-their dark foliage and white bloom will be of value;
-the greyish foliage and abundant pale lilac blossom
-of <i>Abutilon vitifolium</i> in the grey and purple region, and
-the pale green foliage of the deciduous <i>Magnolia
-conspicua</i> showing as a background to the tender blue
-of a charming pale Delphinium.</p>
-
-<p>The shrubs and plants on the wall are not all there
-because they are things rare and precious or absolutely
-needing the shelter of the wall, though some of them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span>
-are glad of it, but because they give a background
-that either harmonises in detail with what is in front
-or will help to enrich or give general cohesion to the
-picture. The front of the border has some important
-foliage giving a distinctly blue effect; prominent
-among it Sea Kale. The flower-stems are cut hard
-back in the earlier summer, and it is now in handsome
-fresh leaf. Further back is the fine blue foliage
-of Lyme Grass (<i>Elymus arenarius</i>), a plant of our
-sea-shores, but of much value for blue effects in the
-garden.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="TALLCAMPANULAS">
-<img src="images/i_141.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>TALL CAMPANULAS PYRAMIDALIS AND LACTIFLORA
-IN A GREY BORDER.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Now is the time to begin to use our reserve of plants
-in pots. Of these the most useful are the Hydrangeas.
-They are dropped into any vacant spaces, more or
-less in groups, in the two ends of the border where
-there is grey foliage, their pale pink colouring agreeing
-with these places. Their own leafage is a rather bright
-green, but we get them so well bloomed that but few
-leaves are seen, and we arrange as cleverly as we can
-that the rest shall be more or less hidden by the surrounding
-bluish foliage. I stand a few paces off,
-directing the formation of the groups; considering
-their shape in relation to the border as a whole. I say
-to the gardener that I want a Hydrangea in such a
-place; and tell him to find the nearest place where
-it can be dropped in. Sometimes this dropping in,
-for the pots have to be partly sunk, comes in the way
-of some established plant. If it is a deep-rooted
-perennial that takes three or four years to come to
-its strength, like an Eryngium or a Dictamnus, of
-course I avoid encroaching on its root-room. But if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span>
-it is anything that blooms the season after it is planted,
-and of which I have plenty in reserve, such as an
-Anthemis, a Tradescantia, or a Helenium, I sacrifice
-a portion of the plant-group, knowing that it can
-easily be replaced. But then by August many of the
-plants have spread widely above and there is space
-below. <i>Lilium longiflorum</i> in pots is used in the
-same way, and for the most part in this blue end of
-the border, though there are also some at the further,
-purple end, and just a flash of their white beauty in
-the middle region of strong reds.</p>
-
-<p>In order to use both blue and purple in the flower
-border, this cool, western, grey-foliaged end has the
-blues, and the further, eastern end the purples. For
-although I like to use colour as a general rule in harmonies
-rather than contrasts, I have a dislike to
-bringing together blues and purples. At this end,
-therefore, there are flowers of pure blue&mdash;Delphinium,
-Anchusa, Salvia, Blue Cape Daisy and Lobelia, and
-it is only when the main mass of blue, of Delphiniums
-and Anchusas, is over that even the presence of the
-pale grey-blue of <i>Campanula lactiflora</i> could be tolerated.
-Near the front is another pale grey-blue, that
-of <i>Clematis davidiana</i>, just showing a few blooms,
-but not yet fully out.</p>
-
-<p>Now, giving a pleasant rest and refreshment to the
-eye after the blues and greys, is a well-shaped drift
-of the pale sulphur African Marigold. It was meant
-to be the dwarf variety, but, as it grows two and a half
-feet high, it has been pulled down as it grew. Some
-of it has been brought down some way over the edge<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>
-of the path, where it breaks the general front line
-pleasantly and shows off its good soft colouring. We
-grow only this pale colour and a good form of the
-splendid orange. The intermediate one, the full
-yellow African Marigold, has, to my eye, a raw quality
-that I am glad to avoid, and I have other plants that
-give the strong yellow colour better. Now at the
-back are some plants of the single Hollyhock <i>Hibiscus
-ficifolius</i>, white and pale yellow, recalling, as we merge
-into the stronger yellows, the colouring of the region
-just left. They are partly intergrouped with that
-excellent plant Rudbeckia Golden Glow, brilliant,
-long-lasting, and capable of varied kinds of useful
-treatment.</p>
-
-<p>Now we come to a group of the perennial Sunflowers;
-a good form of the double <i>Helianthus multiflorus</i> in
-front, and behind it the large single kind of the same
-plant. By the side of these is a rather large group of
-a garden form of <i>H. orgyalis</i>. This is one of the
-perennial Sunflowers that is usually considered not
-good enough for careful gardening. It grows very
-tall, and bears a smallish bunch of yellow flowers at
-the top. If this were all it could do it would not be
-in my flower border. But in front of it grows a patch
-of the fine Tansy-like <i>Achillea Eupatorium</i>, and in
-front of this again a wide-spreading group of <i>Eryngium
-oliverianum</i>&mdash;beautiful all through July. When the
-bloom of these is done the tall Sunflower is trained
-down over them&mdash;this pulling down, as in the case of
-so many plants, causing it to throw up flower-stalks
-from the axils of every pair of leaves; so that in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>
-September the whole thing is a sheet of bloom. Thus
-the plant that was hardly worth a place in the border
-becomes, at its flowering time, one of the brightest
-ornaments of the garden. Other plants that are in front
-of the Sunflower, that have also passed out of bloom,
-are the Scarlet Bee-balm (<i>Monarda</i>) and the very
-useful alpine Groundsel (<i>Senecio artemisiæfolius</i>).</p>
-
-<p>Next we have an important group of a large-leaved
-Canna, the handsomest foliage in the border; good
-to see when the sun is behind and the light comes
-through the leaves. Here also, at the back, is a patch
-of Hollyhocks&mdash;one very dark, almost a claret-red,
-and a fine, full red inclining to blood-colour. They
-tower up together, and close to them are Dahlias, the
-dark red Lady Ardilaun, deep scarlet Cochineal, bright
-scarlet Fire King, and its variety Orange Fire King,
-now the most brilliant piece of colouring in the garden.
-These lead on to a gorgeous company&mdash;Phlox Coquelicot,
-scarlet Pentstemon, orange African Marigold,
-scarlet Gladiolus, and, to the front, a brilliant dwarf
-scarlet Salvia; <i>Helenium pumilum</i> and scarlet and
-orange dwarf Nasturtium. Here and there within
-this mass of bright colouring there is a patch of the
-fine deep yellow <i>Coreopsis lanceolata</i>, a plant of long-enduring
-bloom, or rather of long succession, for, if
-the dead flowers are removed it will be brightly
-blossomed for a good three months.</p>
-
-<p>As this gorgeous mass occupies a large space in
-the flower border, I have thought well to subdue it
-here and there with the cloudy masses of <i>Gypsophila
-paniculata</i>. Five-year-old plants of this form masses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span>
-of the pretty mist-like bloom four feet across and as
-much high. This bold introduction of grey among
-the colour-masses has considerable pictorial value.
-As the grey changes, towards the end of the month,
-to a brownish tone, some of the tall Nasturtiums
-are allowed to grow over the bushes of
-Gypsophila.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="YUCCAFILAMENTOSA">
-<img src="images/i_147.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>YUCCA FILAMENTOSA VAR. FLACCIDA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEGREYBORDERS">
-<img src="images/i_148.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE GREY BORDERS: STACHYS, GYPSOPHILA, LILY, ACHILLEA
-PEARL AND PINK HOLLYHOCK.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Now we have got beyond the middle of the length
-of the border, and the colour changes again to the
-clear and pale yellows, and then again to the grey
-foliage as at the beginning. Where this occurs, at a
-little more than two-thirds of the way along the border,
-it is crossed by the path, leading, through an archway
-in the wall closed by a door, to the garden beyond.
-This cross-path is flanked by groups of Yuccas, slightly
-raised, as will be seen in some of the illustrations. (<i>See</i>
-pp. 51, 102.) Yuccas all like a raised mound and some
-good loam to grow in. I have them here as well as
-at the two extreme ends of the border. No plants
-make a handsomer full-stop to any definite garden
-scheme. The grey treatment comprises the two
-Yucca mounds to right and left of the cross-path;
-the other grey plants are as before&mdash;<i>Cineraria maritima</i>,
-Santolina, Stachys, Elymus and Rue&mdash;but at
-this end, besides some plants with white, pink and
-palest yellow colouring, the other flowers are not blues
-but purples, light and dark. Among these a very
-useful thing is Ageratum; not the dwarf Ageratum,
-though this is good too in its place, but the ordinary
-<i>Ageratum mexicanum</i>, a plant that grows about two
-feet high. This is also the place for some of the earliest<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span>
-Michaelmas Daisies that will bloom in September,
-such as <i>Aster acris</i> and <i>A. Shortii</i>. At the back there
-are Dahlias, white and pale yellow, with white and
-sulphur Hollyhocks, and, in the middle spaces, pale
-pink Gladiolus, double <i>Saponaria officinalis</i>, and pale
-pink Pentstemon. At the back, also, there is a clump
-of Globe Thistle (<i>Echinops</i>) and a grand growth of
-Clematis Jackmanni, following in season of bloom,
-and partly led over, a white Everlasting Pea, that
-in the earlier summer was trained to conceal the
-dying stems of the red-orange Lilies that bloomed in
-June.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>There is also a short length of double border specially
-devoted to August, of the same character, though not
-so fully developed, as what will be described in a
-further chapter as the Grey Garden. Here, the space
-being small, it has been given specially to the more
-restricted season. The scheme of colouring has a
-ground of grey foliage, with flowers of pink, white
-and light and dark purple.</p>
-
-<p>Next the path is the silvery white of Stachys,
-<i>Cineraria maritima</i>, and <i>Artemisia stelleriana</i>, with
-the grey foliage and faint purple of the second bloom
-of Catmint. Then bushy masses of Lavender and
-Gypsophila, and between them <i>Lilium longiflorum</i>,
-Godetia Double Rose, and white Snapdragons. Behind
-and among these are groups of the clear white Achillea,
-The Pearl, and the round purple heads of Globe Thistle.
-Here and there, pushing to the front, is a Silver Thistle
-(<i>Eryngium giganteum</i>). At the back shoot up Pink<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span>
-Hollyhocks, the kind being one of home growth known
-as Pink Beauty. The deep green of a Fig-tree that
-covers the upper part of the landing and outside stone
-steps to a loft is an excellent background to the tender
-greys of these August borders. Unfortunately, the
-main group of pink Hollyhock, that should have
-stood up straight and tall and shown well against the
-window and silvery grey weather-boarding of the loft,
-failed altogether last season; in fact, all the Hollyhocks
-were poor and stunted, so that an important
-part of the intended effect was lost.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Of Lavender hedges there are several, of varying
-ages, in different parts of the garden. Lavender
-for cutting should be from plants not more than four
-to five years old, but for pictorial effect the bushes
-may be much older. When they are growing old it
-is a good plan to plant white and purple Clematises
-so that they can be trained freely through and over
-them.</p>
-
-<p>There are comparatively few shrubs that flower in
-autumn, so that it is quite a pleasant surprise to come
-upon a group of them all in bloom together. The
-picture shows the satisfactory effect of a group of
-<i>Æsculus macrostachya</i> and <i>Olearia Haastii</i>. It would
-have been all the better for some plants of the beautiful
-blue-flowered <i>Perowskya atriplicifolia</i> and for
-<i>Caryopteris mastacanthus</i> in front, but at the time of
-planting I did not think of the <i>Caryopteris</i> and did not
-know the <i>Perowskya</i>. (<i>See</i> p. 75.)</p>
-
-<p>August is the month of China Asters. I find many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span>
-people are shy of these capital plants, perhaps because
-the mixtures, such as are commonly grown, contain
-rather harsh and discordant colours; also perhaps
-because a good many of the kinds, having been purposely
-dwarfed in order to fit them for pot-culture
-and bedding, are too stiff to look pretty in general
-gardening. Such kinds will always have their uses,
-but what is wanted now in the best gardening is
-more freedom of habit. I have a little space that
-I give entirely to China Asters. I have often had
-the pleasure of showing it to some person who professed
-a dislike to them, and with great satisfaction
-have heard them say, with true admiration: "Oh!
-but I had no idea that China Asters could be so
-beautiful."</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ALAVENDERHEDGE">
-<img src="images/i_153.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>A LAVENDER HEDGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="AESCULUSMACROSTACHYA">
-<img src="images/i_154.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>ÆSCULUS MACROSTACHYA AND OLEARIA HAASTII.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is only a question of selection, for the kinds are
-now so many and the colourings so various that there
-are China Asters to suit all tastes and uses. My own
-liking is for those of the pure violet-purple and lavender
-colours, with whites; and to plants with these clear,
-clean tints my Aster garden is restricted. In other
-places I grow some of the tenderer pinks, a good blood-red,
-and a clear pale yellow; but these are kept quite
-away from the purples. The kinds chosen are within
-the Giant Comet, Ostrich Plume and Victoria classes&mdash;all
-plants with long-stalked bloom and a rather free
-habit of growth. For some years I was much hindered
-from getting the colours I wanted from the inaccurate
-way in which they are described in seed-lists. Finally
-I paid a visit to the trial-grounds of one of our premier
-seed-houses, and saw all the kinds and the colourings<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span>
-and made my own notes. I cannot but think that a
-correct description of the colours, instead of a fanciful
-one, would help both customer and seed-merchant.
-As it is, the customer, in order to get the desired flowers,
-has to <i>learn a code</i>. I have often observed, in comparing
-French and English seed-lists, that the French
-do their best to describe colours accurately, but that
-the English use some wording which does not describe
-the colour, but appears to be intended as a complimentary
-euphemism. Thus, if I want a Giant Comet
-of that beautiful pale silvery lavender, perhaps the
-loveliest colour of which a China Aster is capable, I
-have to ask for "azure blue." If I want a full lilac,
-I must order "blue"; if a full purple it is "dark
-blue." If I want a strong, rich violet-purple, I must
-beware of asking for purple, for I shall get a terrible
-magenta such as one year spoilt the whole colour-scheme
-of my Aster garden. It is not as if the right
-colour-words were wanting, for the language is rich
-in them&mdash;violet, lavender, lilac, mauve, purple;&mdash;these,
-with slight additions, will serve to describe
-the whole of the colourings falsely called blue.
-The word blue should not be used at all in connexion
-with these flowers. There are no blue China
-Asters.</p>
-
-<p>The diagram shows a simple arrangement for a
-little garden of China Asters of the purple and white
-colourings. The seed-list names are used in order
-to identify the sorts recommended. A Lavender
-hedge surrounds the whole; the paths are edged with
-<i>Stachys lanata</i>. Taking Messrs. Sutton's list and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a><br /><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
-translating into colour-words as usually understood,
-the tints are:</p>
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr><td align="left">Azure blue &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align="left">Tender pale lavender-lilac.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Blue</td><td align="left">Light purple.</td></tr>
-<tr><td align="left">Dark blue</td><td align="left">Rich dark purple.</td></tr>
-</table></div>
-
-<p>I am very glad to learn that Messrs. Sutton have in
-contemplation a revision of some of these puzzling
-colour-names.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="PLANOFASMALL">
-<a href="images/i_156.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_156thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"> <i>PLAN OF A SMALL GARDEN OF CHINA ASTERS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX<br />
-
-<small>THE FLOWER BORDERS IN SEPTEMBER</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>The main flower border shows in September much the
-same aspect as in August. But early in the month the
-middle mass of strong colouring, enhanced by Tritomas
-and the fuller bloom of Dahlias, is at its brightest.
-The bold masses of Canna foliage have also grown up
-and show their intended effect. They form one of
-the highest points in the border. No attempt is made
-to keep all the back-row plants standing high; on the
-contrary, many that would be the tallest are pulled
-down to do colour-work of medium height. The
-effect is much more pictorial when the plants at the
-back rise only here and there to a height of nine or ten
-feet; mounting gradually and by no means at equal
-distances, but somewhat as the forms of greater altitude
-rise in the ridge of a mountain range. The diagram
-shows how it comes in the case of my own border in
-September. (<i>See</i> p. 52.)</p>
-
-<p>Rather near the front, the bushy masses of Gypsophila,
-that a month ago were silvery grey, have now
-turned to a brownish colour. They are partly covered
-with trailing Nasturtiums, but the portions of brown
-cloud that remain tone well with the rich reds that are
-near them. In the back of this region dark claret and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>
-blood-red Hollyhocks still show colour, and scarlet
-Dahlias are a mass of gorgeous bloom. Their nearest
-neighbours are tall flaming Tritomas with, in front of
-them, one of the dwarfer Tritomas that is crowded with
-its orange-scarlet flowers of a rather softer tone. Then
-come scarlet Gladiolus, a wide group of a splendid red
-Pentstemon, and, to the front, an edging and partly
-carpeting mass of a good, short-growing form of <i>Salvia
-splendens</i>.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SOMEOFTHEEARLYASTERS">
-<img src="images/i_159.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SOME OF THE EARLY ASTERS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THESEPTEMBERGARDEN">
-<img src="images/i_160.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>After these strong reds comes a drift of the brilliant
-orange African Marigold, one of the most telling
-plants of the time of year. Coming to the yellows of
-middle strength, there are some of the perennial Sunflowers,
-among them the one that seems to be a form of
-<i>Helianthus orgyalis</i>, described in the last chapter. This
-and some others are trained down to cover plants now
-out of bloom. The fine double Rudbeckia called
-Golden Glow is treated in the same way. Intergrouped
-with it is a useful pale form of <i>Helianthus lætiflorus</i>
-that takes up the colour when the Rudbeckia is failing.</p>
-
-<p>In the near end region of blue-grey foliage the bloom
-of <i>Clematis davidiana</i>, also of a greyish blue, but of a
-colour-quality that is almost exclusively its own, tones
-delightfully with its nearest neighbours of leaf and
-bloom. About here some pots of <i>Plumbago capensis</i>
-are dropped in; their wide-ranging branches, instead
-of being stiffly tied, are trained over some bushy plants
-of leaden blue-foliaged Rue. Near this, and partly
-shooting up through some of the same setting, are the
-spikes of a beautiful Gladiolus of pale, cool pink colour,
-the much-prized gift of an American garden-loving<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>
-friend. Tall white Snapdragons, five feet high, show
-finely among the gracefully recurved leaves of the blue
-Lyme Grass. Beyond is a group of <i>Lilium auratum</i>,
-and in the more distant front, pale sulphur African
-Marigold, just now at its best.</p>
-
-<p>The further end of the border that also has grey
-foliage is bright with pink Hydrangeas, white and pink
-Snapdragons, white Dahlias, purple Clematis, <i>Lilium
-auratum</i> and <i>Aster acris</i>. <i>Yucca flaccida</i> is still in
-beauty.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>There is another range of double border for the
-month of September alone. It passes down through
-the middle of the kitchen garden and is approached by
-an arch of Laburnum. It is backed on each side by a
-Hornbeam hedge some five and a half feet high. This
-border is mainly for the earlier Michaelmas Daisies;
-those that bloom in the first three weeks of the month.
-Grey foliage in plenty is to the front. Running in
-between the groups is <i>Artemisia stelleriana</i>, the quite
-hardy plant that so well imitates <i>Cineraria maritima</i>;
-there is also Stachys and White Pink. Further back
-among the flowers are drifts of the grey-blue Lyme
-Grass, some grey bushes of Phlomis and a silvery leaved
-Willow, kept to a suitable size by careful pruning.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="LOWEREND">
-<img src="images/i_163.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN: LOWER END.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="UPPEREND">
-<img src="images/i_164.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE SEPTEMBER GARDEN: UPPER END.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="BEGONIASIN">
-<img src="images/i_165.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>BEGONIAS IN A SETTING OF MEGASEA FOLIAGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="EARLYASTERS">
-<img src="images/i_166.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>EARLY ASTERS AND PYRETHRUM ULIGINOSUM.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="EARLYMICHAELMASDAISIES">
-<a href="images/i_167.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_167thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE SEPTEMBER BORDER OF EARLY MICHAELMAS DAISIES.</i></div>
-</div>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span></p>
-
-<p>The scheme of colouring consists of this groundwork
-of grey foliage, with white, lilac, purple and pale pink
-flowers; and, breaking into this colouring in two or
-three distinct places, flowers of pale yellow and yellowish
-white with suitable accompanying leafage. There is
-also, in quite another part of the garden, a later border
-of other Michaelmas Daisies that will follow this in
-time of blooming. But the September borders have a
-very different appearance because of their flowers of
-pink and yellow, colours which are absent in those of
-the later season.</p>
-
-<p>The yellow flowers are the pale sulphur African Marigold
-and pale yellow and whitish yellow tall Snapdragons,
-with bordering masses of variegated Coltsfoot,
-and the Golden Feather Feverfew allowed to bloom.
-The pink colourings are the wide-headed <i>Sedum spectabile</i>,
-pink Japan Anemone and a few pale pink Gladioli.
-The whites are Dahlias Constance and Henry Patrick,
-<i>Pyrethrum uliginosum</i>, the charming perennial Aster
-Colerette Blanche, a taller white or yellowish white
-Aster with rough stems and harsh-feeling foliage that
-I know as <i>A. umbellatus</i>. Here also are white Japan
-Anemones, white Snapdragons and white China Asters
-of the large, long-stemmed late-blooming kind that
-were formerly known as Vick's, but are now called
-Mammoth. Among the grey bordering plants are
-groups of dwarf Ageratum, one of the best of the tender
-plants of September and quite excellent with the
-accompanying grey foliage. The grey bordering is not
-merely an edging but a general front groundwork,
-running here and there a yard deep into the border.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Begonias are at their best throughout the month of
-September. Beds of Begonias alone never seem to me
-quite satisfactory. Here there is no opportunity for
-growing them in beds, but I have them in a bit of narrow
-border that is backed by shrubs, but is kept constantly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>
-enriched. A groundwork of the large-leaved form of
-<i>Megasea cordifolia</i> is planted so as to surround variously
-sized groups of Begonias&mdash;groups of from five to nine
-plants. The setting of the more solid leaves gives the
-Begonias a better appearance and makes their bright
-bloom tell more vividly. They follow in this sequence
-of colouring: yellow, white, palest pink, full pink, rose,
-deep red, deep rose, salmon-rose, red-lead colour or
-orange-scarlet, scarlet, red-lead and orange.</p>
-
-<p>It is a matter of great regret that the best kind of
-Dahlias for garden effect have lost favour with nurserymen,
-so that it is now difficult, if not impossible, to
-obtain from them the most desirable kinds. These are
-a selection of those that were first called Cactus Dahlias,
-much more free in form than the old show Dahlias,
-but with the petals not attenuated and pointed as they
-are in the modern Cactus kinds. The greater number of
-these, pretty though their individual blooms are on the
-show-table, are but of little use in the garden, whereas
-the old sorts, King of the Cactus, Cochineal, Lady
-Ardilaun, Fire King and Orange Fire King are among
-the most gorgeous of our September flowers. In the
-same class are: Mrs. Hawkins, palest lemon flushed
-with pink; William Pearse, bright yellow; Lady M.
-Marsham, bright copper; J. W. Standling, orange,
-(the two last about four feet high); and the two good
-whites, Constance and Henry Patrick. Of these, all
-in my opinion indispensable kinds, only Fire King,
-as far as I am aware, survives in contemporary trade
-lists.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X<br />
-
-<small>WOOD AND SHRUBBERY EDGES</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>Opportunities for good gardening are so often overlooked
-that it may be well to draw attention to some
-of those that are most commonly neglected.</p>
-
-<p>When woodland joins garden ground there is too
-often a sudden jolt; the wood ends with a hard line,
-sometimes with a path along it, accentuating the defect.
-When the wood is of Scotch Fir of some age there is a
-monotonous emptiness of naked trunk and bare ground.
-In wild moorland this is characteristic and has its own
-beauty; it may even pleasantly accompany the garden
-when there is only a view into it here and there; but
-when the path passes along, furlong after furlong, with
-no attempt to bring the wood into harmony with the
-garden, then the monotony becomes oppressive and
-the sudden jolt is unpleasantly perceived. There is
-the well-stocked garden and there is the hollow wood
-with no cohesion between the two&mdash;no sort of effort to
-make them join hands.</p>
-
-<p>It would have been better if from the first the garden
-had not been brought quite so close to the wood, then
-the space between, anything from twenty-five to forty
-feet, might have been planted so as to bring them into
-unison. In such a case the path would go, not next<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>
-the trees but along the middle of the neutral ground
-and would be so planted as to belong equally to garden
-and wood. The trees would then take their place as
-the bounding and sheltering feature. It is better to
-plan it like this at first than to gain the space by felling
-the outer trees, because the trees at the natural wood
-edge are better furnished with side branches. Such
-ground on the shady side of the Scotch Firs would be
-the best possible site for a Rhododendron walk, and
-for Azaleas and Kalmias, kept distinct from the Rhododendrons.
-Then the Scotch Fir indicates the presence
-of a light peaty soil; the very thing for that excellent
-but much-neglected undershrub <i>Gaultheria Shallon</i>.
-This is one of the few things that will grow actually
-under the Firs, not perhaps in the densest part of an
-old wood, but anywhere about its edges, or where any
-light comes in at a clearing or along a cart-way. When
-once established it spreads with a steady abundance
-of increase, creeping underground and gradually
-clothing more and more of the floor of the wood. The
-flower and fruit have already been shown at pp. 18-19.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GARLANDROSEWHERE">
-<img src="images/i_173.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GARLAND ROSE, WHERE GARDEN JOINS WOOD.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="POLYGONUMCOMPACTUM">
-<img src="images/i_174.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>POLYGONUM COMPACTUM AND MEGASEA AT A WOOD EDGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="LILIESANDFUNKIAS">
-<img src="images/i_175.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>LILIES AND FUNKIAS AT A SHRUBBERY EDGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="OLEARIAGUNNI">
-<img src="images/i_176.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>OLEARIA GUNNI, FERN AND FUNKIA AT A SHRUBBERY EDGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Rhododendrons are usually planted much too close
-together. This is a great mistake; they should not be
-nearer than eight to ten feet, or even further, apart,
-especially in the case of <i>ponticum</i> and some of the
-larger growing kinds. It is a common practice to fill
-up the edges of their prepared places with a collection
-of Heaths. The soil will no doubt suit Heaths, but I
-never do it or recommend it because I feel that the
-right place for Heaths is quite open ground, and there
-are other plants that I think look better with the young<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span>
-Rhododendrons. For my own liking the best of these
-are hardy Ferns&mdash;Male Fern, Lady Fern and Dilated
-Shield Fern, with groups of Lilies: <i>L. longiflorum</i> and
-the lovely rosy <i>L. rubellum</i> towards the front, and
-<i>L. auratum</i> further back. Some of the Andromedas,
-especially <i>Catesbæi</i> and <i>axillaris</i> of the <i>Leucothoë</i>[
-section are capital plants for this use. Besides Lilies,
-a few other flowering plants suitable for the Rhododendron
-walk are: white Foxgloves, white Columbine,
-white <i>Epilobium angustifolium</i>, <i>Trillium</i>, <i>Epimedium
-pinnatum</i>, <i>Uvularia grandiflora</i>, <i>Dentaria diphylla</i> and
-<i>Gentiana asclepiadea</i>. In the same region, and also
-partly as edgings to the Rhododendron clumps, suitable
-small bushes are <i>Rhododendron myrtifolium</i>, the Alpenrose
-(<i>R. ferruginium</i>) and the sweet-leaved <i>Ledum
-palustre</i>.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>When the garden comes on the sunny side of the
-wood the planting would be quite different. Here is
-the place for Cistuses; for the bolder groups the best
-are <i>C. laurifolius</i> and <i>C. cyprius</i>, backed by plantings
-of Tamarisk, Arbutus and White Broom, with here and
-there a free-growing Rose of the wilder sort, such as
-the type <i>polyantha</i> and <i>Brunonis</i>. If the fir-boughs
-come down within reach, the wild Clematis (<i>C. Vitalba</i>)
-can be led into them; it will soon ramble up the tree,
-filling it with its pretty foliage and abundance of August
-bloom.</p>
-
-<p>The Cistuses delight in a groundwork of Heath; the
-wild Calluna looks as well as any, but if cultivated
-kinds are used they should be in good quantities of one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span>
-sort at a time, and never as hard edgings, but as free
-carpeting masses.</p>
-
-<p>For the edges of other kinds of woodland the free
-Roses are always beautiful; where a Holly comes to
-the front, a Rose such as Dundee Rambler or the Garland
-will grow up it, supported by its outer branches
-in the most delightful way. The wild Clematis is in
-place here too, also the shade-loving plants already
-named. In deciduous woodland there is probably
-some undergrowth of Hazel, or of Bramble and wild
-Honeysuckle. White Foxgloves should be planted
-at the edge and a little way back, Daffodils for the
-time when the leaves are not yet there, and Lily of the
-Valley, whose charming bloom and brilliant foliage
-come with the young leaves of May.</p>
-
-<p>Where the wood comes nearest the house with only
-lawn between, it is well to have a grouping of hardy
-Ferns and Lilies; where it is giving place to garden
-ground and there is a shrubby background, the smaller
-Polygonums, such as <i>P. compactum</i>, are in place.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="FERNSANDLILIES">
-<img src="images/i_179.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>FERNS AND LILIES AT A SHRUBBERY EDGE NEXT THE WOOD.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GYPSOPHILAANDMEGASEA">
-<img src="images/i_180.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GYPSOPHILA AND MEGASEA AT A SHRUBBERY EDGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The spaces more or less wide between large shrubs
-and turf are full of opportunities for ingenious treatment;
-they are just the places most often neglected,
-or at any rate not well enough considered. I have
-always taken delight in working out satisfactory ways
-of treating them. It seems desirable to have, next the
-grass, some foliage of rather distinct and important
-size or form. For this use the Megaseas are invaluable;
-the one most generally useful being the large variety
-of <i>M. cordifolia</i>. Funkias are also beautiful, but as
-their leaves come late and go with the first frosts or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span>
-even earlier, whereas the Megaseas persist the whole
-year round, the latter are the most generally desirable.
-These shrub-edge spaces occur for the most
-part in bays, giving an inducement to invent a separate
-treatment for each bay.</p>
-
-<p>The two illustrations with the front planting of
-<i>Funkia Sieboldi</i> are two adjoining bays; one showing
-the charming shrubby Aster <i>Olearia Gunni</i> in the
-middle of June, the other some groups of <i>Lilium longiflorum</i>,
-planted in November of the year before, and
-in bloom in early August.</p>
-
-<p>Sometimes a single plant of <i>Gypsophila paniculata</i>
-will fill the whole of one of the recesses or bays between
-the larger shrubs; <i>Hydrangea paniculata</i> is another
-good filling plant, and the hardy Fuchsias; both of
-these, though really woody shrubs, being cut down
-every winter and treated as herbaceous plants.</p>
-
-<p>There is a small growing perennial Aster&mdash;I will not
-venture on its specific name, but have seen it figured
-in an American book of wild flowers as <i>divaricata</i>, and
-provisionally know it by that name. I find it, in conjunction
-with Megasea, one of the most useful of these
-filling plants for edge spaces that just want some pretty
-trimming but are not wide enough for anything larger.
-The same group was photographed two years running.
-The first year the bloom was a little thicker below, but
-the second I thought it still better when it had partly
-rambled up into the lower branches of the Weigela
-that stood behind it. The little thin starry flower is
-white and is borne in branching heads; the leaves are
-lance-shaped and sharply pointed; but when the plant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>
-is examined in the hand its most distinct character is
-the small fine wire-like stem, smooth and nearly black,
-that branches about in an angular way of its own.</p>
-
-<p>These are only a very few examples of what may
-also be done in a number of other ways, but if they
-serve to draw attention to those generally neglected
-shrub edges, it may be to the benefit of many gardens.
-Where there is room for a good group of plants they
-should be of some size or solidity of character such as
-Tree Lupine, Peony, Acanthus, <i>Spiræa Aruncus</i>, the
-larger hardy Ferns, <i>Rubus nutkanus</i> or plants of some
-such size and character. The low-growing <i>Bambusa
-tessellata</i> is a capital shrub-edge plant.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="LILIESANDFERNSATTHEWOOD">
-<img src="images/i_183.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>LILIES AND FERNS AT THE WOOD EDGE NEAR THE LAWN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SMALLWIRESTEMMEDASTER2">
-<img src="images/i_184.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SMALL WIRE-STEMMED ASTER AT SHRUB EDGE. SECOND YEAR AFTER PLANTING.</i></div>
-</div>
-<div class="figcenter" id="SMALLWIRESTEMMEDASTER3">
-<img src="images/i_185.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SMALL WIRE-STEMMED ASTER AT SHRUB EDGE. THIRD YEAR AFTER PLANTING.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="STOBAEAPURPUREA">
-<img src="images/i_186.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>STOBÆA PURPUREA, A GREY GARDEN<br />
-WALL PLANT FOR A SUNNY PLACE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI<br />
-
-<small>GARDENS OF SPECIAL COLOURING</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>It is extremely interesting to work out gardens in
-which some special colouring predominates, and to
-those who, by natural endowment or careful eye-cultivation,
-possess or have acquired what artists
-understand by an eye for colour, it opens out a whole
-new range of garden delights.</p>
-
-<p>Arrangements of this kind are sometimes attempted,
-for occasionally I hear of a garden for blue plants, or
-a white garden, but I think such ideas are but rarely
-worked out with the best aims. I have in mind a
-whole series of gardens of restricted colouring, though
-I have not, alas, either room or means enough to
-work them out for myself, and have to be satisfied
-with an all-too-short length of double border for a
-grey scheme. But, besides my small grey garden I
-badly want others, and especially a gold garden, a
-blue garden, and a green garden; though the number
-of these desires might easily be multiplied.</p>
-
-<p>It is a curious thing that people will sometimes
-spoil some garden project for the sake of a word. For
-instance, a blue garden, for beauty's sake, may be
-hungering for a group of white Lilies, or for something
-of palest lemon-yellow, but it is not allowed to have it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span>
-because it is called the blue garden, and there must
-be no flowers in it but blue flowers. I can see no sense
-in this; it seems to me like fetters foolishly self-imposed.
-Surely the business of the blue garden is to
-be beautiful as well as to be blue. My own idea is
-that it should be beautiful first, and then just as blue
-as may be consistent with its best possible beauty.
-Moreover, any experienced colourist knows that the
-blues will be more telling&mdash;more purely blue&mdash;by the
-juxtaposition of rightly placed complementary colour.
-How it may be done is shown in the plan, for, as I
-cannot have these gardens myself, it will be some
-consolation to suggest to those who may be in
-sympathy with my views, how they may be made.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>The Grey garden is so called because most of its
-plants have grey foliage, and all the carpeting and
-bordering plants are grey or whitish. The flowers
-are white, lilac, purple, and pink. It is a garden
-mostly for August, because August is the time when
-the greater number of suitable plants are in bloom,
-but a Grey garden could also be made for September,
-or even October, because of the number of Michaelmas
-Daisies that can be brought into use.</p>
-
-<p>A plan is given of a connected series of gardens of
-special colouring. For the sake of clearness they are
-shown in as simple a form as possible, but the same
-colour-scheme could be adapted to others of more
-important design and larger extent.</p>
-
-<p>The Gold garden is chosen for the middle, partly
-because it contains the greater number of permanent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span>
-shrubs and is bright and cheerful all the year round,
-and partly because it is the best preparation, according
-to natural colour-law, for the enjoyment of the compartments
-on either side. It is supposed that the
-house is a little way away to the north, with such
-a garden-scheme close to it as may best suit its style
-and calibre. Then I would have a plantation of
-shrubs and trees. The shade and solidity of this
-would rest and refresh the eye and mind, making
-them the more ready to enjoy the colour garden.
-Suddenly entering the Gold garden, even on the dullest
-day, will be like coming into sunshine. Through the
-shrub-wood there is also a path to right and left
-parallel to the long axis of the colour garden, with paths
-turning south at its two ends, joining the ends of the
-colour-garden paths. This has been taken into account
-in arranging the sequence of the compartments.</p>
-
-<p>The hedges that back the borders and form the
-partitions are for the most part of Yew, grown and
-clipped to a height of seven feet. But in the case of
-the Gold garden, where the form is larger and more
-free than in the others, there is no definite hedge, but
-a planting of unclipped larger gold Hollies, and the
-beautiful Golden Plane, so cut back and regulated
-as to keep within the desired bounds. This absence
-of a stiff hedge gives more freedom of aspect and a
-better cohesion with the shrub-wood.</p>
-
-<p>In the case of the Grey garden the hedge is of Tamarisk
-(<i>Tamarix gallica</i>), whose feathery grey-green is
-in delightful harmony with the other foliage greys.
-It will be seen on the plan that where this joins the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span>
-Gold garden the hedge is double, for it must be of
-gold Holly on one side and of Tamarisk on the other.
-At the entrances and partition where the path passes,
-the hedge shrubs are allowed to grow higher, and are
-eventually trained to form arches over the path.</p>
-
-<p>In the Gold and Green gardens, the shrubs, which
-form the chief part of the planting, are shown as they
-will be after some years' growth. It is best to have
-them so from the first. If, in order to fill the space
-at once, several are planted where one only should
-eventually stand, the extra ones being removed later,
-the one left probably does not stand quite right. I
-strongly counsel the placing of them singly at first,
-and that until they have grown the space should be
-filled with temporary plants. Of these, in the Gold
-garden, the most useful will be <i>Œnothera lamarckiana</i>,
-<i>Verbascum olympicum</i>, and <i>V. phlomoides</i>, with more
-Spanish Broom than the plan shows till the gold
-Hollies are grown; and yellow-flowered annuals, such
-as the several kinds of <i>Chrysanthemum coronarium</i>,
-both single and double, and <i>Coreopsis Drummondi</i>;
-also a larger quantity of African Marigolds, the pale
-primrose and the lemon-coloured. The fine tall yellow
-Snapdragons will also be invaluable. Flowers of a
-deep orange colour, such as the orange African Marigold,
-so excellent for their own use, are here out of place,
-only those of pale and middle yellow being suitable.</p>
-
-<p>In such a garden it will be best to have, next the
-path, either a whole edging of dwarf, gold-variegated
-Box-bushes about eighteen inches to two feet high,
-or a mixed planting of these and small bushes of gold-variegated
-Euonymus clipped down to not much
-over two feet. The edge next the path would be
-kept trimmed to a line.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEGREYBORDERS2">
-<img src="images/i_191.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE GREY BORDERS: GYPSOPHILA, ECHINOPS,<br />
-PINK HOLLYHOCK, HELIOTROPE AND SILVER THISTLE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="OCTOBERBORDERS">
-<img src="images/i_192.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>OCTOBER BORDERS OF MICHAELMAS DAISIES.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ASEPTEMBERGREYGARDEN">
-<img src="images/i_193.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>A SEPTEMBER GREY GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEGREYBORDERPINK">
-<img src="images/i_194.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE GREY BORDER: PINK HOLLYHOCK, ECHINOPS,<br />
-ACHILLEA PEARL, GYPSOPHILA, STACHYS, etc.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SPECIALCOLOURGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_195.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_195thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>SPECIAL COLOUR GARDEN&mdash;GENERAL PLAN.</i></div>
-</div>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="AQUARTEROFTHEGOLDGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_196.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_196thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>A QUARTER OF THE GOLD GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEORANGEGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_197.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_197thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE ORANGE GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEGREYGARDEN198">
-<a href="images/i_198.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_198thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE GREY GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEBLUEGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_199.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_199thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE BLUE GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEGREENGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_200.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_200thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE GREEN GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span></p>
-
-<p>The strength of colour and degree of variation is
-so great that it is well worth going to a nursery to
-pick out all these gold-variegated plants. It is not
-enough to tell the gardener to get them. There
-should be fervour on the part of the garden's owner
-such as will take him on a gold-plant pilgrimage to all
-good nurseries within reach, or even to some rather
-out of reach. No good gardening comes of not
-taking pains. All good gardening is the reward of
-well-directed and strongly sustained effort.</p>
-
-<p>Where, in the Gold garden, the paths meet and
-swing round in a circle, there may be some accentuating
-ornament&mdash;a sundial, a stone vase for flowers,
-or a tank for a yellow Water-lily. If a sundial, and
-there should be some incised lettering, do not have
-the letters gilt because it is the Gold garden; the
-colour and texture of gilding are quite out of place.
-If there is a tank, do not have goldfish; their colour
-is quite wrong. Never hurt the garden for the sake
-of the tempting word.</p>
-
-<p>The word "gold" in itself is, of course, an absurdity;
-no growing leaf or flower has the least resemblance
-to the colour of gold. But the word may be used
-because it has passed into the language with a
-commonly accepted meaning.</p>
-
-<p>I have always felt a certain hesitation in using the
-free-growing perennial Sunflowers. For one thing, the
-kinds with the running roots are difficult to keep in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span>
-check, and their yearly transplantation among other
-established perennials is likely to cause disturbance
-and injury to their neighbours. Then, in so many
-neglected gardens they have been let run wild, surviving
-when other plants have been choked, that,
-half unconsciously, one has come to hold them cheap
-and unworthy of the best use. I take it that my
-own impression is not mine alone, for often when I
-have been desired to do planting-plans for flower
-borders, I have been asked not to put in any of these
-Sunflowers because "they are so common."</p>
-
-<p>But nothing is "common" in the sense of base or
-unworthy if it is rightly used, and it seems to me
-that this Gold garden is just the place where these
-bright autumn flowers may be employed to great
-advantage. I have therefore shown <i>Helianthus rigidus</i>
-and its tall-growing variety <i>Miss Mellish</i>, although
-the colour of both is quite the deepest I should care to
-advise; the paler yellow of <i>H. lætiflorus</i> being better,
-especially the capital pale form of this Sunflower, and
-of one that I know as a variety of <i>H. orgyalis</i>, described
-at p. 69.</p>
-
-<p>The golden Planes, where the path comes in from
-the north, are of course deciduous, and it might be
-well to have gold Hollies again at the back of these,
-or gold Yews, to help the winter effect.</p>
-
-<p>In some places in the plan the word "gold" has
-been omitted, but the yellow-leaved or yellow-variegated
-form of the shrub is always intended. There is
-a graceful cut-leaved Golden Elder that is desirable,
-as well as the common one.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ADETAILOFTHEGREYSEPTEMBER">
-<img src="images/i_203.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"> <i>A DETAIL OF THE GREY SEPTEMBER GARDEN.<br />
-PERENNIAL ASTERS AND WHITE CHINA<br />
-ASTER MAMMOTH IN FRONT.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span></p>
-
-<p>Perhaps the Grey garden is seen at its best by
-reaching it through the orange borders. Here the
-eye becomes filled and saturated with the strong red
-and yellow colouring. D on the plan stands for
-Dahlia; the other plant names are written in full.
-This filling with the strong, rich colouring has the
-natural effect of making the eye eagerly desirous
-for the complementary colour, so that, standing by
-the inner Yew arch and suddenly turning to look into
-the Grey garden, the effect is surprisingly&mdash;quite
-astonishingly&mdash;luminous and refreshing. One never
-knew before how vividly bright Ageratum could be,
-or Lavender or Nepeta; even the grey-purple of
-Echinops appears to have more positive colour than
-one's expectation would assign to it. The purple
-of the Clematises of the Jackmanii class becomes
-piercingly brilliant, while the grey and glaucous
-foliage looks strangely cool and clear.</p>
-
-<p>The plan shows the disposition of the plants, with
-grey-white edging of <i>Cineraria maritima</i>, Stachys
-and Santolina. There are groups of Lavender with
-large-flowered Clematises (C in the plan) placed so
-that they may be trained close to them and partly
-over them. There are the monumental forms of the
-taller Yuccas, <i>Y. gloriosa</i> and its variety <i>recurva</i>
-towards the far angles, and, nearer the front (marked
-Yucca in plan), the free-blooming <i>Yucca filamentosa</i>
-of smaller size. The flower-colouring is of purple,
-pink and white. Besides the Yuccas, the other white
-flowers are <i>Lilium longiflorum</i> and <i>Lilium candidum</i>
-(L C on plan), the clear white Achillea The Pearl<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>
-and the grey-white clouds of <i>Gypsophila paniculata</i>.
-The pink flowers are Sutton's Godetia Double Rose,
-sown in place early in May, the beautiful clear pink
-Hollyhock Pink Beauty, and the pale pink Double
-Soapwort. Clematis and white Everlasting Pea are
-planted so that they can be trained to cover the
-Gypsophila when its bloom is done and the seed-pods
-are turning brown. As soon as it loses its grey colouring
-the flowering tops are cut off, and the Pea and
-Clematis, already brought near, are trained over.
-When the Gypsophila is making its strong growth in
-May, the shoots are regulated and supported by some
-stiff branching spray that is stuck among it. A little
-later this is quite hidden, but it remains as a firm
-sub-structure when the top of the Gypsophila is cut
-back and the other plants are brought over.</p>
-
-<p>Elymus is the blue-green Lyme Grass, a garden form
-of the handsome blue-leaved grass that grows on the
-seaward edges of many of our sea-shore sandhills. The
-Soapwort next to it is the double form of <i>Saponaria
-officinalis</i>, found wild in many places.</p>
-
-<p>Of Ageratum, two kinds are used&mdash;a brightly
-coloured one of the dwarf kinds for places near the
-front, where it tells as a close mass of colour, and the
-tall <i>A. mexicanum</i> for filling up further back in the
-border, where it shows as a diffuse purple cloud.
-The Nepeta is the good garden Catmint (<i>N. Mussini</i>).
-Its normal flowering time is June, but it is cut half
-back, removing the first bloom, by the middle of the
-month, when it at once makes new flowering shoots.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="YUCCASANDGREYFOLIAGE">
-<img src="images/i_207.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>YUCCAS AND GREY FOLIAGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="AFRONTEDGEOFGREYFOLIAGE">
-<img src="images/i_208.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>A FRONT EDGE OF GREY FOLIAGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span></p>
-
-<p>Now, after the grey plants, the Gold garden looks
-extremely bright and sunny. A few minutes suffice
-to fill the eye with the yellow influence, and then we
-pass to the Blue garden, where there is another delightful
-shock of eye-pleasure. The brilliancy and purity
-of colour are almost incredible. Surely no blue
-flowers were ever so blue before! That is the impression
-received. For one thing, all the blue flowers
-used, with the exception of Eryngium and <i>Clematis
-davidiana</i>, are quite pure blues; these two are grey-blues.
-There are no purple-blues, such as the bluest
-of the Campanulas and the perennial Lupines; they
-would not be admissible. With the blues are a few
-white and palest yellow flowers; the foam-white
-<i>Clematis recta</i>, a delightful foil to Delphinium Belladonna;
-white perennial Lupine with an almond-like
-softness of white; <i>Spiræa Aruncus</i>, another foam-coloured
-flower. Then milk-white Tree Lupine, in
-its carefully decreed place near the bluish foliage of
-Rue and Yucca. Then there is the tender citron of
-Lupine Somerset and the full canary of the tall yellow
-Snapdragon, the diffused pale yellow of the soft plumy
-Thalictrum and the strong canary of <i>Lilium szovitzianum</i>,
-with white Everlasting Pea and white Hollyhock
-at the back. White-striped Maize grows up to cover
-the space left empty by the Delphiniums when their
-bloom is over, and pots of <i>Plumbago capense</i> are
-dropped in to fill empty spaces. One group of this is
-trained over the bluish-leaved <i>Clematis recta</i>, which
-goes out of flower with the third week of July.</p>
-
-<p>Yuccas, both of the large and small kinds, are also
-used in the Blue garden, and white Lilies, <i>candidum</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>
-and <i>longiflorum</i>. There is foliage both of glaucous
-and of bright green colour, besides an occasional patch
-of the silvery <i>Eryngium giganteum</i>. At the front edge
-are the two best Funkias, <i>F. grandiflora</i>, with leaves
-of bright yellow-green, and <i>F. Sieboldi</i>, whose leaves
-are glaucous. The variegated Coltsfoot is a valuable
-edge-plant where the yellowish white of its bold
-parti-colouring is in place, and I find good use for the
-variegated form of the handsome Grass <i>Glyceria</i> or
-<i>Poa aquatica</i>. Though this is a plant whose proper
-place is in wet ground, it will accommodate itself
-to the flower border, but it is well to keep it on the
-side away from the sun. It harmonises well in colour
-with the Coltsfoot; as a garden plant it is of the
-same class as the old Ribbon Grass, but is very
-much better. The great white-striped Japanese grass,
-<i>Eulalia japonica striata</i> (EU on the plan), is planted
-behind the Delphiniums at the angles, and groups
-well with the Maize just in front.</p>
-
-<p>From the Blue garden, passing eastward, we come
-to the Green garden. Shrubs of bright and deep
-green colouring and polished leaf-surface predominate.
-Here are green Aucubas and Skimmias, with <i>Ruscus
-racemosus</i>, the beautiful Alexandrian or Victory Laurel,
-and more polished foliage of <i>Acanthus</i>, <i>Funkia</i>, <i>Asarum</i>,
-<i>Lilium candidum</i> and <i>longiflorum</i>, and <i>Iris fœtidissima</i>.
-Then feathery masses of paler green, Male Fern and
-Lady Fern and <i>Myrrhis odorata</i>, the handsome fern-like
-Sweet Cicely of old English gardens. In the
-angles are again Eulalias, but these are the variety
-<i>zebrina</i> with the leaves barred across with yellow.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span></p>
-
-<p>In the Green garden the flowers are fewer and
-nearly all white&mdash;Campanulas <i>latifolia</i> and <i>persicifolia</i>,
-Lilies, Tulips, Foxgloves, Snapdragons, Peonies,
-Hellebores&mdash;giving just a little bloom for each season
-to accompany the general scheme of polished and
-fern-like foliage. A little bloom of palest yellow
-shows in the front in May and June, with the flowers
-of Uvularia and Epimedium. But the Green garden,
-for proper development, should be on a much larger
-scale.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII<br />
-
-<small>CLIMBING PLANTS</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>When one sees climbing plants or any of the shrubs
-that are so often used as climbers, planted in the usual
-way on a house or wall, about four feet apart and with
-no attempt at arrangement, it gives one that feeling
-of regret for opportunities lost or misused that is the
-sentiment most often aroused in the mind of the
-garden critic in the great number of pleasure-grounds
-that are planted without thought or discernment.
-Not infrequently in passing along a country road, with
-eye alert to note the beauties that are so often presented
-by little wayside cottage gardens, something is seen
-that may well serve as a lesson in better planting.
-The lesson is generally one that teaches greater simplicity&mdash;the
-doing of one thing at a time; the avoidance
-of overmuch detail. One such cottage has under the
-parlour window an old bush of <i>Pyrus japonica</i>. It had
-been kept well spurred back and must have been a
-mass of gorgeous bloom in early spring. The rest of
-the cottage was embowered in an old Grape Vine,
-perhaps of all wall plants the most beautiful, and, I
-always think, the most harmonious with cottages or
-small houses of the cottage class. It would seem to
-be least in place on the walls of houses of classical type,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span>
-though such houses are often unsuitable for any wall
-plants. Still there are occasions where the noble
-polished foliage of Magnolia comes admirably on their
-larger spaces, and the clear-cut refinement of Myrtle
-on their lesser areas of wall-surface.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="HARDYGRAPEVINEONSOUTH">
-<img src="images/i_213.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>HARDY GRAPE VINE ON SOUTH SIDE OF HOUSE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="HARDYGRAPEVINEONHOUSE">
-<img src="images/i_214.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>HARDY GRAPE VINE ON HOUSE WALL.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is, like all other matters of garden planning, a
-question of knowledge and good taste. The kind of
-wall or house and its neighbouring forms are taken
-into account and a careful choice is made of the most
-suitable plants. For my own part I like to give a house,
-whatever its size or style, some dominant note in wall-planting.
-In my own home, which is a house of the
-large cottage class, the prevailing wall-growths are
-Vines and Figs in the south and west, and, in a shady
-northward facing court between two projecting wings,
-<i>Clematis montana</i> on the two cooler sides, and again
-a Vine upon the other. At one angle on the warmer
-side of the house where the height to the eaves is not
-great, China Roses have been trained up, and Rosemary,
-which clothes the whole foot of the wall, is here
-encouraged to rise with it. The colour of the China
-Rose bloom and the dusky green of the Rosemary are
-always to me one of the most charming combinations.
-In remembrance of the cottage example lately quoted
-there is <i>Pyrus japonica</i> under the long sitting-room
-window. I remember another cottage that had a porch
-covered with the golden balls of <i>Kerria japonica</i>, and
-China Roses reaching up the greater part of the low
-walls of half timber and plastering; the pink Roses
-seeming to ask one which of them were the loveliest
-in colour; whether it was those that came against the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span>
-silver-grey of the old oak or those that rested on the
-warm-white plaster. It should be remembered that
-of all Roses the pink China is the one that is more
-constantly in bloom than any other, for its first flowers
-are perfected before the end of May, and in sheltered
-places the later ones last till Christmas.</p>
-
-<p>The <i>Clematis montana</i> in the court riots over the
-wall facing east and up over the edge of the roof. At
-least it appears to riot, but is really trained and regulated;
-the training favouring its natural way of throwing
-down streamers and garlands of its long bloom-laden
-cordage. At one point it runs through and over
-a Guelder Rose that is its only wall companion. Then
-it turns to the left and is trained in garlands along a
-moulded oak beam that forms the base of a timbered
-wall with plastered panels.</p>
-
-<p>But this is only one way of using this lovely climbing
-plant. Placed at the foot of any ragged tree&mdash;old
-worn-out Apple or branching Thorn&mdash;or a rough brake
-of Bramble and other wild bushes, it will soon fill or
-cover it with its graceful growth and bounteous bloom.
-It will rush up a tall Holly or clothe an old hedgerow
-where thorns have run up and become thin and gappy,
-or cover any unsightly sheds or any kind of outbuilding.
-All Clematises prefer a chalky soil, but <i>montana</i> does
-not insist on this, and in my pictures they are growing
-in sandy ground. In the end of May it comes into
-bloom, and is at its best in the early days of June.
-When the flowers are going over and the white petals
-show that slightly shrivelled surface that comes before
-they fall, they give off a sweet scent like vanilla. This
-cannot always be smelt from the actual flowers, but is
-carried by the air blowing over the flowering mass; it
-is a thing that is often a puzzle to owners of gardens
-some time in the second week of June.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="VINEANDFIG">
-<img src="images/i_217.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>VINE AND FIG AT DOOR OF MUSHROOM HOUSE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISMONTANAATANGLEOFCOURT">
-<img src="images/i_218.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS MONTANA AT ANGLE OF COURT.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISMONTANAOVERWORKSHOPWINDOW">
-<img src="images/i_219.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER WORKSHOP WINDOW.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISMONTANATRAINEDASGARLANDS">
-<img src="images/i_220.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS MONTANA TRAINED AS GARLANDS.</i></div>
-</div>
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISFLAMMULAAND">
-<img src="images/i_221.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS FLAMMULA AND SPIRÆA LINDLEYANA ON A WALL.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ABUTILONVITIFOLIUM">
-<img src="images/i_222.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>ABUTILON VITIFOLIUM.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="IPOMOEAHEAVENLYBLUE">
-<img src="images/i_223.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>IPOMŒA "HEAVENLY BLUE" AND CHASSELAS VINE.</i>]</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SOLANUMJASMINOIDES">
-<img src="images/i_224.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SOLANUM JASMINOIDES.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISFLAMMULAONANGLEOFCOTTAGE">
-<img src="images/i_225.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS FLAMMULA ON ANGLE OF COTTAGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISFLAMMULAONCOTTAGE">
-<img src="images/i_226.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS FLAMMULA ON COTTAGE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span></p>
-
-<p>Another of these Clematises, that, like the <i>montana</i>
-of gardens, is very near the wild species and is good for
-all the same purposes, is <i>C. Flammula</i>, blooming in
-September. Very slightly trained it takes the form of
-flowery clouds. The illustrations show it used in
-various ways, on a cottage, on an oak-paled fence and
-on a wall combined with the feathery foliage of <i>Spiræa
-Lindleyana</i>. I do not think there is any incident in
-my garden that has been more favourably noticed than
-the happy growth of these two plants together. The
-wall faces north a little west, and every year it is a
-delight to see not only the beauty of associated form,
-but the loveliness of the colouring; for the Clematis
-bloom has the warm white of foam and the Spiræa has
-leaves of the rather pale green of Lady Fern besides
-a graceful fern-like form, and a slight twist or turn
-also of a fern-like character. But this Clematis has
-many other uses, for bowers, arches and pergolas, as
-well as for many varied aspects of wild gardening.</p>
-
-<p>A shrub for wall use that is much neglected though
-of the highest beauty is <i>Abutilon vitifolium</i>. In our
-northern and midland counties it may not be hardy,
-but it does well anywhere south of London. The
-flowers, each two and a half inches across, are borne in
-large, loose clusters, their tender lavender colour
-harmonising perfectly with the greyish, downy foliage.</p>
-
-<p>There is no lovelier or purer blue than that of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>
-newly opened <i>Ipomœa rubro-cœrulea</i>, popularly known
-as Heavenly Blue and well deserving the name. It
-must be raised in heat early in the year and be put
-out in June against a warm wall. Here it is in a narrow
-border at the foot of a wall facing south-west, where,
-by the aid of a few short pea-sticks, it climbs into the
-lower branches of a Vine. The Vine is one of the
-Chasselas kind, with leaves of a rather pale green,
-almost yellowish green, colour that make the best
-possible foil to the pure blue of the Ipomea. To
-my eye it is the most enjoyable colour-feast of the
-year. <i>Solanum crispum</i>, with purple flowers in goodly
-bunches, is one of the best of wall shrubs.</p>
-
-<p>Another of the tender plants that is beautiful for
-walls and for free rambling over other wall-growths
-is <i>Solanum jasminoides</i>. Its white clusters come into
-bloom in middle summer and persist till latest autumn.
-In two gardens near me it is of singular beauty; in the
-one case on the sunny wall of a sheltered court where
-it covers a considerable space, in the other against a
-high south retaining-wall where, from the terrace above,
-the flowers are seen against the misty woodland of
-the middle distance and the pure grey-blue of the faraway
-hills. Turning round on the very same spot
-there is the remarkable growth of the Sweet Verbena
-that owes its luxuriance to its roots and main shoots
-being under shelter. There must be unending opportunities,
-where there are verandahs, of having just
-such bowers of sweetness to brush against in passing
-and to waft scented air to the windows of the rooms
-above.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="CLEMATISFLAMMULAONAWOODENFENCE">
-<img src="images/i_229.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>CLEMATIS FLAMMULA ON A WOODEN FENCE.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="SWEETVERBENA">
-<img src="images/i_230.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>SWEET VERBENA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span></p>
-
-<p>These notes can only touch upon the more careful
-use of a few of the many climbing plants and trailing
-shrubs. One of the many garden possessions that I
-ardently desire and can never have is a bit of rocky
-hillside; a place partly of sheer scarp and partly of
-tumbled and outcropping rock-mass, for the best use
-of these plants. There would be the place for the
-yellow winter Jasmine, for the Honeysuckles both
-bushy and rambling, for the trailing Clematises lately
-described, and for the native <i>C. Vitalba</i>, beautiful both
-in flower and fruit; for shrubs like <i>Forsythia suspensa</i>
-and <i>Desmodium penduliflorum</i> that like to root high
-and then throw down cascades of bloom, and for the
-wichuraiana Roses, also for Gourds and wild Vines.
-There should be a good quarter of a mile of it so that
-one might plant at perfect ease, one thing at a time
-or one or two in combination, in just such sized and
-shaped groups as would make the most delightful
-pictures, and in just the association that would show
-the best assortment.</p>
-
-<p>I have seen long stretches of bare chalky banks for
-year after year with nothing done to dispel their bald
-monotony, feeling inward regret at the wasted opportunity;
-thinking how beautiful they might be made
-with a planting of two common things, <i>Clematis Vitalba</i>
-and Red Spur Valerian. But such examples are without
-end.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII<br />
-
-<small>GROUPINGS OF PLANTS IN POTS</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>It is a common thing in Italian gardens to see a quantity
-of plants in pots standing in various parts of the
-garden, generally in connexion with paved terraces
-and steps. This is in addition to the larger pot plants&mdash;Oranges,
-Lemons, Oleanders, &amp;c., that, in their
-immense and often richly decorated earthenware
-receptacles, form an important part of the garden
-design. In our climate we cannot have these unless
-there is an Orangery or some such spacious place free
-from frost for housing them in winter. But good
-groupings of smaller plants in pots is a form of ornament
-that might be made more use of in our own gardens,
-especially where there are paved spaces near a house
-or in connexion with a tank or fountain, so that there
-is convenient access to means of daily watering. I
-have such a space in a cool court nearly square in shape.
-A middle circle is paved, and all next the house is paved,
-on a level of one shallow step higher. It is on the sides
-of this raised step that the pot plants are grouped,
-leaving the middle space free where there is a wooden
-seat, and good access to a door to the left.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="POTPLANTSJUSTPLACED">
-<img src="images/i_233.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>POT PLANTS JUST PLACED.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="PLANTSINPOTSINTHESHADEDCOURT">
-<img src="images/i_234.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>PLANTS IN POTS IN THE SHADED COURT: FUNKIA, LILIUM LONGIFLORUM,
-FERNS AND ASPIDISTRA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="MAIDENSWREATH">
-<img src="images/i_235.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>MAIDEN'S WREATH</i> (<i>FRANCOA RAMOSA</i>).</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="MAIDENSWREATHBYTANK">
-<img src="images/i_236.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>MAIDEN'S WREATH BY TANK.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span></p>
-
-<p>The first thing is to secure good greenery. On each
-side three oblong Italian terra-cotta pots full of <i>Funkia
-grandiflora</i> stand on the lower level. They serve to
-hide the common flower-pots that are ranged behind.
-The picture shows how it looks a day or two after it
-is first arranged, early in June when the <i>Clematis
-montana</i> is still in bloom. Next above the ornamental
-pots are common ones also with <i>Funkia grandiflora</i>.
-On the inner side of the groups, next the house, are pots
-of Aspidistra, and, against the wall, of Male Fern, and
-there are more Ferns and Funkias for filling spaces
-between the flowering plants. Of these the most
-important are Lilies&mdash;<i>longiflorum</i>, <i>candidum</i> and
-<i>speciosum</i>&mdash;and Hydrangeas, but we also have pots of
-<i>Gladiolus Colvillei</i> The Bride, <i>Campanula persicifolia</i>
-and <i>C. pyramidalis</i> and white and pink Cup-and-saucer
-Canterbury Bells. The last are taken up from the
-ground and potted only just before they come into
-bloom.</p>
-
-<p>There are seldom more than two kinds of flowering
-plants placed here at a time; the two or three sorts of
-beautiful foliage are in themselves delightful to the eye;
-often there is nothing with them but Lilies, and one
-hardly desires to have more. There is an ample filling
-of the green plants, so that no pots are seen.</p>
-
-<p>If the place were in the sun the plants chosen would
-be largely Geraniums; two-year-old plants in good-sized
-pots; and, in place of the Ferns that enjoy shade
-and the Funkias whose leaves often burn in the sun,
-there would be the large leaved <i>Megasea cordifolia</i>.
-Here also would be Lilies, Hydrangeas and Cannas,
-and good store of the graceful Maiden's Wreath (<i>Francoa
-ramosa</i>).</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span></p>
-
-<p>The Geraniums would be very carefully assorted for
-colour; in one part of the scheme white and soft pink,
-in another the rosy scarlets, and elsewhere the salmon-reds,
-now so numerous and good. The last two groups
-might by degrees tone into the pure scarlets, of which
-the best I know and the most delightful in colour is
-Paul Crampel. The colour is pure and brilliant but
-not <i>cruel</i>. I can think of no other word that so well
-describes some scarlets of a harsh quality that gives
-discomfort rather than satisfaction to a sensitive
-colour-eye. Henry Jacoby is to me one of the cruel reds
-and has no place among my flowers. I have no desire
-to disparage a plant which is so general a favourite,
-but feel sure that its popularity is a good deal owing
-to the fact that the main gardening public is inclined
-rather to accept what is put before it than to take the
-trouble to search for something better. Although the
-colour of this Geranium is extremely vivid, a whole bed
-of it has a heavy appearance and is wanting in pictorial
-effect.</p>
-
-<p>I have great pleasure in putting together Omphale,
-palest salmon-pink; Mrs. Laurence, a shade deeper;
-Mrs. Cannell, a salmon-scarlet approaching the quality
-of colour of Phlox Coquelicot, and leading these by
-degrees to the pure, good scarlet of Paul Crampel. A
-bed or clump or border planted with these, or varieties
-equivalent in colour, would be seen to have, in comparison
-with a bed of Henry Jacoby, a quite remarkable
-degree of life, brilliancy, beauty and interest. The
-colouring would be actually brighter and yet more kind
-and acceptable to the eye.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></p>
-
-<p>Had I more strength I should visit the nurseries in
-order to see all the excellent Geraniums that are now
-grown, and to group them into colour-combinations
-such as could be confidently recommended. As it is,
-I have to depend upon the courtesy of my friends in
-the horticultural trade, when I have occasion to make
-such combinations, for sending me blooms that I can
-choose from.</p>
-
-<p>For detached vases that stand on pedestals, so that
-the whole of the vase and contents becomes warmed by
-exposure to sunlight, a condition specially grateful to
-Geraniums, I know no variety more useful than King
-of Denmark. The flowers are in large trusses, half-double,
-of an excellent soft salmon-pink colour; the
-foliage is bold and well marked; the whole plant
-massive and handsome. For this and any other outdoor
-pot-culture it is best if strong two-year-old plants
-can be kept.</p>
-
-<p>There are among Geraniums some of a raw magenta-pink
-that I regret to see in many gardens and that will
-certainly never be admitted into mine.</p>
-
-<p>In designing gardens where there are flagged spaces
-it is well to remember the good effect of summer flowers
-in slightly raised beds with stone edges. Such beds
-often come happily in conjunction with steps and
-paved landings and designs in which fountains occur.
-Summer flowers, such as Geraniums, Lilies and Cannas,
-seem to revel in such beds and are never seen to better
-advantage. Owing to the cottage character of my
-house I have little scope for such beds&mdash;none at all
-for the best kind with dwarf walls and curbs of moulded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span>
-freestone, but I have one edged with a low wall of
-local sandstone where there is a square landing paved
-with the same stone and short flights of steps in connexion
-with a tank and a lower garden level. Here
-Geraniums and Cannas luxuriate in shelter and full
-sunshine.</p>
-
-<p>Maiden's Wreath (<i>Francoa ramosa</i>) is a plant for
-many uses. The foliage, though sparing in quantity,
-is distinct and handsome. The long flower-stems are
-flung out with a kind of determination of character
-that would seem to imply that the plant knows what
-is expected of it and intends to fulfil its settled duty
-and purpose, namely, that of being a graceful and
-beautiful ornament. Towards the later summer these
-flower-stems become so heavy that there is danger of
-their weight, swayed by a little wind, wrenching out
-whole portions of the plant. Support should be given
-with short pieces of hazel stick tied half way up the
-stem. In nurseries it is general, and even in private
-gardens not unusual, to see the flowers tied straight
-upright. This should never be, for it not only forces
-the plant into a form that is entirely at variance with
-its nature, but robs it of its natural grace and valuable
-individuality.</p>
-
-<p>There is no end to the uses of Hydrangeas in pots;
-a well-bloomed plant will give life and interest to many
-an uninteresting corner; the bloom is long-enduring
-and stands equally well in sun and shade. If the blue
-colour, which comes naturally in some soils is desired,
-it can be had by mixing pounded slate and iron filings
-with the compost&mdash;alum is another well-known agent
-for inducing the blue colour. But I have much faith
-in slate, for the bluest I have ever seen came from a
-garden on a slaty soil.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="GERANIUMSANDCANNAS">
-<img src="images/i_241.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>GERANIUMS AND CANNAS IN A STONE-EDGED BED.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="MAIDENSWREATHINPOTSABOVETANK">
-<img src="images/i_242.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>MAIDEN'S WREATH IN POTS ABOVE TANK.</i></div>
-</div>
-<div class="figcenter" id="FUNKIAHYDRANGEAANDLILY">
-<img src="images/i_243.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>FUNKIA, HYDRANGEA AND LILY IN THE SHADED COURT.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="FUNKIAANDLILIUMSPECIOSUM">
-<img src="images/i_244.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>FUNKIA AND LILIUM SPECIOSUM.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span></p>
-
-<p>A few only of the many plants that can with advantage
-be used in pots have been named, but in any
-case it would be well to bear in mind that it is best to
-restrict the number of kinds shown at once and to make
-sure of the good groundwork of foliage. I have therefore
-only dwelt upon the few that came to mind as the
-best and easiest to use. But the pretty red and white
-single Fuchsias of the Mme. Cornellisson type should
-not be forgotten, also that the fine Comet and Ostrich
-Plume Asters are capital pot-plants, for, like Canterbury
-Bells, they bear lifting from the open ground just before
-they flower and even in full bloom.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Plants grown in pots lead naturally to the consideration
-of those most suitable for tubs. Of these the most
-important are permanent things of shrubby nature&mdash;several
-of the Orange and Lemon family, Oleander,
-Pomegranate, Bay, Myrtle, Datura, Sweet Verbena
-and dwarf Palm, also Hydrangea, Tree Heliotrope and
-Agapanthus. The last is of course a bulbous plant,
-but from its large, solid foliage and quantity of long-enduring
-bloom it is one of the best of plants for tubs.
-The greater number of these need housing in winter
-in an Orangery or other frost-proof building. Other
-bushy plants for tub use that are hardier are some of
-the Veronicas, such as <i>Traversi</i>, <i>speciosa</i> and <i>hulkeana</i>,
-<i>Olearia Haastii</i> and <i>O. Gunni</i>. Tree Peonies, though
-rarely so used, are capital tub plants, and, though they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span>
-are not very long in flower, their supreme beauty makes
-them desirable. They should certainly be grown in
-places where labour is not restricted and where there
-are suitable places for standing such plants away and
-caring for them in the off season.</p>
-
-<p>For the same kind of use the Tree Lupines, both
-white and yellow, would be excellent. <i>Funkia Sieboldi</i>
-also makes a handsome tub, while for summer filling
-Cannas are admirable and old Geraniums in bush form
-always acceptable. I have never seen Acanthus used
-in this way, but can see no reason against it. The
-smaller Bamboos, such as the handsome broad-leaved
-<i>B. tessellata</i>, are very good in tubs. In speaking of
-plants suitable for tubs, I take the word to include the
-larger sizes of terra-cotta pots; but Agapanthus should
-never be planted in earthenware, as the roots, which
-remain for many years undisturbed, have so strong a
-rending power that they will burst anything less
-resisting than iron-hooped wood.</p>
-
-<p>It is rare to see, anywhere in England, plant-tubs
-painted a pleasant colour. In nearly every garden they
-are painted a strong raw green with the hoops black,
-whereas any green that is not bright and raw would
-be much better. This matter of the colouring of all
-such garden accessories as have to be painted deserves
-more attention than it commonly receives. Doors in
-garden walls, trellises, wooden railings and hand-gates
-and seats&mdash;all these and any other items of woodwork
-that stand out in the garden and are seen among its
-flowers and foliage should, if painted green, be of such
-a green as does not for brightness come into competition<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span>
-with the green of leaves. In the case of tubs especially,
-it is the plant that is to be considered first&mdash;not the
-tub. The bright, harsh green on the woodwork makes
-the colour of the foliage look dull and ineffective. It
-would be desirable, in the case of solitary tub plants,
-to study the exact colour that would be most becoming
-to the flower and foliage; but as it is needful, to avoid
-a patchy appearance, to paint the whole of the tubs in
-any one garden-scheme the same colour, a tint should
-be chosen that is quiet in itself and that is lower in tone
-than the dullest of the foliage in any of the examples.
-Moreover, there is no reason for painting the hoops
-black; it is much better to paint the whole out of
-one pot.</p>
-
-<p>A good quiet green can be made with black, chrome
-No. 1 and white lead; enough white being mixed to
-give the depth or lightness desired. A pretty colour of
-paint is much used in France that approximates to the
-colourman's malachite green. This is not the bright
-colour of malachite as we know the polished stone,
-but a pale, opaque bluish green approaching the turquoise
-tints. In the bright, clear climate of France,
-and in connexion with the higher type of French
-architecture, also in more southern countries, the
-colour looks very well, though it is not becoming to
-some foliage; but something quieter and more sober
-is better suited for England.</p>
-
-<p>Elsewhere I have written of the deplorable effect in
-the garden landscape of the glaring white paint&mdash;still
-worse when tinted blue&mdash;that emphasises the ugliness
-of the usual greenhouse or conservatory. This may<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span>
-be mitigated, if the unsightly structure cannot be
-concealed, by adding to the white a good deal of black
-and raw umber, till the paint is of the quiet warm grey
-that for some strange reason is known to house-painters
-as Portland-stone colour.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="LILIUMAURATUM">
-<img src="images/i_249.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>LILIUM AURATUM.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="ATUBHYDRANGEA">
-<img src="images/i_250.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>A TUB HYDRANGEA.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="STEPSANDHYDRANGEAS">
-<img src="images/i_251.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>STEPS AND HYDRANGEAS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THENARROWSOUTHLAWN">
-<img src="images/i_252.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE NARROW SOUTH LAWN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV<br />
-
-<small>SOME GARDEN PICTURES</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>When the eye is trained to perceive pictorial effect, it
-is frequently struck by something&mdash;some combination
-of grouping, lighting and colour&mdash;that is seen to have
-that complete aspect of unity and beauty that to the
-artist's eye forms a picture. Such are the impressions
-that the artist-gardener endeavours to produce in
-every portion of the garden. Many of these good
-intentions fail, some come fairly well, a few reward
-him by a success that was beyond anticipation. When
-this is the case it is probably due to some cause that
-had been overlooked but that had chanced to complete
-his intention, such as the position of the sun in
-relation to some wished-for colour-picture. Then there
-are some days during the summer when the quality
-of light seems to tend to an extraordinary beauty of
-effect. I have never been able to find out how the
-light on these occasions differs from that of ordinary
-fine summer days, but, when these days come, I know
-them and am filled with gladness.</p>
-
-<p>In the case of my own garden, as far as deliberate
-intention goes, what is aimed at is something quite
-simple and devoid of complication; generally one
-thing or a very limited number of flowering things at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span>
-a time, but that one, or those few things, carefully
-placed so as to avoid fuss, and to please the eye and
-give ease to the mind. In many cases the aim has
-been to show some delightful colour-combination without
-regard to the other considerations that go to the
-making of a more ambitious picture. It may be a
-group in a shrub border, or a combination of border
-and climbing plants, or some carefully designed company
-of plants in the rock garden. I have a little rose that
-I call the Fairy Rose. It came to me from a cottage
-garden, and I have never seen it elsewhere. It grows
-about a foot high and has blush-pink flowers with
-the colour deepening to the centre. In character the
-flower is somewhere between the lovely Blush Boursault
-at its best and the little De Meaux. It is an inch and
-a half across and of beautiful form, especially in the
-half-opened bud. Wishing to enjoy its beauty to the
-utmost, and to bring it comfortably within sight, I
-gave it a shelf in raised rock-work and brought near
-and under it a clear pale lilac Viola and a good drift of
-<i>Achillea umbellata</i>. It was worth doing. Another
-combination that gives me much pleasure is that of
-the pink Pompon Rose Mignonette with Catmint
-and whitish foliage, such as Stachys or <i>Artemisia
-stelleriana</i>. I may have mentioned this before, but
-it is so pretty that it deserves repetition.</p>
-
-<p>In a shrubbery border the fine <i>Spiræa Aruncus</i> is
-beautiful with an interplanting of <i>Thalictrum purpureum</i>.
-At the end of a long flower-clump there is
-a yew hedge coming forward at right angles to the
-length of the border. Behind the hedge is a stone wall<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span>
-with an arch, through which the path in front of the
-border passes. Over the stone arch and rambling
-partly over the yews are the vigorous many-flowered
-growths of <i>Clematis Flammula</i>. In the end of the
-border are pale sulphur-coloured Hollyhocks. Both in
-form and colour this was a delightful picture; the
-foam-like masses of the Clematis resting on the dusky
-richness of the yew; the straight shafts of the Hollyhock
-giving clear colour and agreeing with the upright
-lines of the sides of the archway, which showed dimly
-in the shade. These are only a few incidents out of
-numbers that occur or are intentionally arranged.</p>
-
-<p>There is a place near my house where a path leads
-down through a nut-walk to the further garden. It is
-crossed by a shorter path that ends at a Birch tree
-with a tall silvered trunk. It seemed desirable to
-accentuate the point where the paths cross; I therefore
-put down four square platforms of stone "pitching"
-as a place for the standing of four Hydrangeas in tubs.
-Just before the tree is a solid wooden seat and a shallow
-wide step done with the same stone pitching. Tree
-and seat are surrounded on three sides by a rectangular
-planting of yews. The tender greys of the rugged
-lower bark of the Birch and the silvering of its upper
-stem tell finely against the dark velvet-like richness
-of the Yew and the leaf-mass of other trees beyond;
-the pink flowers and fresh green foliage of the Hydrangeas
-are also brilliant against the dusky green. It is
-just one simple picture that makes one glad for three
-months of the later summer and early autumn. The
-longer cross-path, which on the right leads in a few<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span>
-yards to steps up to the paved court on the north side
-of the house, on the left passes down the nut-walk as
-the second illustration shows. The Birch tree and
-seat are immediately to the right, just out of the
-picture. Standing a little way down the shaded nut-walk
-and looking back, the Hydrangeas are seen in
-another aspect, with the steps and house behind them
-in shade, and the sun shining through their pale green
-leaves. Sitting on the seat, the eye, passing between
-the pink Hydrangea flowers, sees a short straight
-path bounded by a wall of Tree Box to right and left,
-and at the far end one tub of pale blue Hydrangea in
-shade, backed by a repetition of the screen of Yews
-such as enclose the Birch tree.</p>
-
-<p>On the south side of the house there is a narrow
-border full of Rosemary, with China Roses and a
-Vine, as shown in the illustration opposite p. 106.
-Here the narrow lawn, backed by woodland, is higher
-than the house-level. Shallow steps lead up to it in
-the middle, and to right and left is low dry-walling.
-On the upper edge of this is a hedge of Scotch Briars,
-shown in full bloom at p. 48, and in the narrow
-border below, a planting of the low-growing <i>Andromeda
-(Leucothoë) axillaris</i>, a little shrub that is neat throughout
-the year and in winter prettily red-tinted.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="HYDRANGEATUBSANDBIRCH">
-<img src="images/i_257.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>HYDRANGEA TUBS AND BIRCH-TREE SEAT.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="HYDRANGEATUBSANDNUTWALK">
-<img src="images/i_258.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>HYDRANGEA TUBS AND NUT WALK.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="WHITELILIES">
-<img src="images/i_259.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>WHITE LILIES.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THESTEPSANDTHEIRINCIDENTS">
-<img src="images/i_260.jpg" alt="" />
-<div class="caption"><i>THE STEPS AND THEIR INCIDENTS.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></p>
-
-<p>The beautiful White Lily cannot be grown in the
-hot sandy soil of my garden. Even if its place be
-ever so well prepared with the loam and lime that it
-loves, the surrounding soil-influences seem to rob it
-of its needful nourishment; it makes a miserable
-show for one year and never appears again. The only
-way to grow it is in pots or tubs sunk in the soil. For
-some years I had wished to have an orderly planting
-of this lovely Lily in the lower border at the back of
-the Andromeda just in front of the Briars. I had no
-flower-pots deep enough, or wide enough at the bottom,
-but was able to make a contrivance with some short,
-broad, unglazed drain-pipes, measuring a foot long and
-of about the same diameter, by cementing in an artificial
-bottom made of pieces of roofing-tile and broken
-flower-pot, leaving spaces for drainage. Then three
-bulbs were put in each pot in a compost that I knew
-they would enjoy. When they were half grown the
-pots were sunk in holes at nearly even distances
-among the Andromedas, and in a few weeks my row
-of Lilies gave me my reward. Other Lilies (<i>L. longiflorum</i>)
-follow them a month later, just beyond in the
-wood edge among tufts of Male Fern, and a pot of
-Francoa is to right and left of the shallow steps.</p>
-
-<p>During the last year or two some pretty incidents
-have occurred about these same steps; not important
-enough to call garden pictures, but charming and interesting
-and easily enjoyable because they are close to
-the open garden door of the sitting-room and because
-they teach me to look out for the desirable things that
-come of themselves. A seedling of the wild Clematis
-(<i>C. Vitalba</i>) appeared among the Briars to the left.
-As it was too strong a plant to let grow over them
-unchecked, I pulled it forward towards the steps,
-training one or two shoots to run along the hollow of
-the step and laying on them pieces of stone invisible
-among the foliage, to keep them from being dislodged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>
-by the skirts of visitors or the gambols of my cats.
-At the same time, in a crack of the stone just below
-the upper step there came a seedling of the tall Chimney
-Campanula (<i>C. pyramidalis</i>). The second year this
-threw up its tall flower-stem and was well in bloom
-when it was wrecked by an early autumn gale, the
-wind wrenching out the crown and upper root-stock.
-But a little shred of rooted life remained and now there
-is again the sturdy tuft promising more flower-stems
-for the coming season.</p>
-
-<p>Close behind the Bell-flower a spreading sheet of
-Wild Thyme has crept out of the turf and spread rather
-widely over the stone. Luckily I just saved it from
-the tidying process that threatened it, and as it is now
-well established over the stone I still have the pleasure
-of its bright rosy bloom when the duties of the mowing-machine
-rob me of the other tiny flowers&mdash;Hawkweed,
-Milkwort and Bedstraw&mdash;that bloom so bravely in
-the intervals between its ruthless but indispensable
-ministrations.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV<br />
-
-<small>A BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>There is a whole range of possible beautiful treatment
-in fruit-growing that is rarely carried out or even
-attempted. Hitherto but little has been done to
-make the fruit garden a place of beauty; we find it
-almost flaunting its unloveliness, its white painted
-orchard-houses and vineries, its wires and wire nettings.
-It is not to be denied that all these are necessary, and
-that the usual and most obvious way of working them
-does not make for beauty. But in designing new
-gardens or remodelling old, on a rather large scale,
-there need be no difficulty in so arranging that all
-that is necessarily unbeautiful should be kept in one
-department, so hedged or walled around as to be out
-of sight.</p>
-
-<p>In addition to such a fruit garden for strict utility
-I have in mind a walled enclosure of about an acre
-and a half, longer than wide, laid out as shown in the
-plan. I have seen in large places just such spaces,
-actually walled but put to no use.</p>
-
-<p>The wall has trained fruit-trees&mdash;Peaches spreading
-their goodly fans, Pears showing long, level lines, and,
-including hardy Grape Vines, giving all the best
-exposition of the hardy fruit-grower's art. Next to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span>
-the wall is a space six feet wide for ample access
-to the fruit-trees, their pruning, training and root-management;
-then a fourteen-foot plant border, wholly
-for beauty, and a path eight feet wide. At a middle
-point on all four sides the high wall has an arched
-doorway corresponding to the grassy way between the
-fruit-trees in the middle space. If the wall has some
-symmetrical building on the outside of each angle
-so much the better; the garden can make use of all.
-One may be a bothy, with lower extension out of sight;
-one a half-underground fruit-store, with bulb-store
-above; a third a paint-shop, and a fourth a tea-house.</p>
-
-<p>The middle space is all turf; in the centre a Mulberry,
-and, both ways across, double lines of fruit-trees,
-ending with Bays; the Bays are at the ends on
-the plan. In almost any part of the sea-warmed
-south of England, below the fifty-first parallel of
-latitude which passes through the upper part of Sussex,
-the rows of fruit-trees on the green might be standard
-Figs; elsewhere they would be bush Pears and Apples.
-If the soil is calcareous, so much the better for the
-Figs and Mulberry, the Vines and indeed nearly all
-the fruits. The angle-clumps in the grass are planted
-with Magnolias, Yuccas and Hydrangeas.</p>
-
-<p>The border all round is for small shrubs and plants
-of some solidity or importance; the spaces are too
-long for an ordinary flower border. It would have a
-good bush of <i>Magnolia stellata</i> at each angle, Yuccas,
-Tritomas, hardy Fuchsias, Peonies, <i>Euphorbia Wulfenii</i>,
-Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Hydrangeas, Michaelmas
-Daisies, Flag Iris, the beautiful <i>Olearia Gunni</i> and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a><br /><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>
-<i>O. Haastii</i>, Tree Lupines, Forsythia, Weigela, the
-smaller Bush Spiræas, Veronicas, Tamarisk, the large-bloomed
-Clematises, bush kinds of garden Roses,
-Funkias, and so on.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="THEBEAUTIFULFRUITGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_265.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_265thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>THE BEAUTIFUL FRUIT GARDEN.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Surely my fruit garden would be not only a place
-of beauty, of pleasant sight and pleasant thought,
-but of leisurely repose, a repose broken only faintly
-and in welcome fashion by its own interests&mdash;in July,
-August and September a goodly place in which to
-wander and find luscious fruits in quantity that can
-be gathered and eaten straight from the tree. There
-is a pleasure in searching for and eating fruit in this
-way that is far better than having it picked by the
-gardener and brought in and set before one on a dish
-in a tame room. Is this feeling an echo of faraway
-days of savagery when men hunted for their food and
-rejoiced to find it, or is it rather the poet's delight
-of having direct intercourse with the good gift of the
-growing thing and seeing and feeling through all the
-senses how good and gracious the thing is? To pass
-the hand among the leaves of the Fig-tree, noting that
-they are a little harsh upon the upper surface and yet
-soft beneath; to be aware of their faint, dusky scent;
-to see the cracking of the coat of the fruit and the
-yellowing of the neck where it joins the branch&mdash;the
-two indications of ripeness&mdash;sometimes made clearer
-by the drop of honeyed moisture at the eye; then the
-handling of the fruit itself, which must needs be gentle
-because the tender coat is so readily bruised and torn;
-at the same time observing the slight greyish bloom
-and the colouring&mdash;low-toned transitions of purple<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>
-and green; and finally to have the enjoyment of the
-luscious pulp, with the knowledge that it is one of the
-most wholesome and sustaining of fruit foods&mdash;surely
-all this is worthy garden service! Then how delicious
-are the sun-warmed Apricots and Peaches, and, later
-in the year, the Jargonelle Pears, always best eaten
-straight from the tree; and the ripe Mulberries of
-September. And how pleasant to stroll about the
-wide grassy ways, turning from the fruits to the
-flowers in the clumps and borders, to the splendid
-Yuccas and the masses of Hydrangea bloom, and then
-to the gorgeous Tritomas and other delights; and
-to see the dignity of the stately Bay-trees and the
-incomparable beauty of their every twig and leaf.</p>
-
-<p>The beautiful fruit garden would naturally lead to
-the orchard, a place that is not so often included in
-the pleasure-ground as it deserves. For what is more
-lovely than the bloom of orchard-trees in April and
-May, with the grass below in its strong, young growth;
-in itself a garden of Cowslips and Daffodils. In an
-old orchard how pictorial are the lines of the low-leaning
-old Apple-trunks and the swing and poise of
-their upper branches, best seen in winter when their
-graceful movement of line and wonderful sense of
-balance can be fully appreciated. But the younger
-orchard has its beauty too, of fresh, young life and
-wealth of bloom and bounteous bearing.</p>
-
-<p>Then if the place of the orchard suggests a return
-to nearer pleasure-ground with yet some space between,
-how good to make this into a free garden orchard for
-the fruits of wilder character; for wide-spreading<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span>
-Medlars, for Quinces, again some of the most graceful
-of small British trees; for Service, Damson, Bullace,
-Crabs and their many allies, not fruit-bearing trees
-except from the birds' and botanists' points of view,
-but beautiful both in bloom and berry, such as the
-Mountain Ash, Wild Cherry, Blackthorn, and the
-large-berried White-thorns, Bird-cherry, White Beam,
-Holly and Amelanchier. Then all these might be intergrouped
-with great brakes of the free-growing Roses
-and the wilder kinds of Clematis and Honeysuckle.
-And right through it should be a shady path of Filberts
-or Cobnuts arching overhead and yielding a bountiful
-autumn harvest.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI<br />
-
-<small>PLANTING FOR WINTER COLOUR</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>Much cheerful positive colour, other than that given
-by flowers or leaves, may be obtained in winter by
-using a good selection of small trees with coloured
-bark. Of these the most useful are the Red Dogwood
-and some of the willows. This planting for colour of
-bright-barked trees is no new thing, for something
-like half a century ago the late Lord Somers, at Eastnor
-Castle near Malvern, used to "paint his woods," as he
-described it, in this way.</p>
-
-<p>The Cardinal Willow has bright red bark, <i>Salix
-britzensis</i> orange, and the Golden Osier bright yellow.
-The yearly growth has the best-coloured bark, so that
-when they are employed for giving colour it is usual
-to cut them every winter; moreover, the large quantity
-of young shoots that the cutting induces naturally
-increases the density of the colour-effect. But if they
-are planted in a rather large way it is better that the
-regular winter cutting should be restricted to those
-near the outer edge, and to let a good proportion of
-those within stand for two or more years, and to
-have some in the background that are never cut at
-all, but that are allowed to grow to their full size and
-to show their natural habit.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span></p>
-
-<p>It will also be well to avoid planting them exclusively
-sort by sort, but to group and intergroup carefully
-assorted colours, such as the scarlet Willow with
-the purple-barked kind, and to let this pass into the
-American Willow with the black stem. Such a group
-should not be too large, and it should be near the
-pathway, for it will show best near at hand. For the
-sake of the bark-colouring, it would be best to cut it
-all every year, although in the larger plantings it is
-desirable to have the trees of different ages, or the
-effect may be too much that of a mere crop instead
-of a well-arranged garden grouping.</p>
-
-<p>Some of the garden Roses, both of the free-growing
-and bush kinds, have finely coloured bark that can
-be used in much the same way. They are specially
-good in broken ground, such as the banks of an old
-hollow cart-way converted to garden use, or the sloping
-<i>débris</i> of a quarry. Of the free kinds, the best coloured
-are <i>Rosa ferruginea</i>, whose leaves are red as well as the
-stem&mdash;it is the <i>Rosa rubrifolia</i> of nurseries;&mdash;and the
-varieties of Boursault Roses, derived from <i>Rosa alpina</i>.
-As bushes for giving reddish colouring, <i>Rosa lucida</i>
-would be among the best.</p>
-
-<p>By waterside the Great Reedmace&mdash;commonly but
-wrongly called Bulrush&mdash;holds its handsome seed-heads
-nearly through the winter, and beds of the
-Common Reed (<i>Arundo Phragmites</i>) stand up winter
-through in masses of light, warm colouring that are
-grateful to the eye and suggest comfortable harbourage
-for wildfowl.</p>
-
-<p>Some shrubs have conspicuously green bark, such<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span>
-as the Spindletree; but the habit of growth is rather
-too diffuse to let it make a distinct show of colour.
-<i>Leycesteria formosa</i> is being tried in mass for winter
-colour in some gardens, but I venture to feel a little
-doubtful of its success; for though the skin of the half-woody
-stem is bright green, the plant has the habit
-of retaining some of its leaves and the remains of its
-flowering tips till January, or even later. After frost
-these have the appearance of untidy grey rags, and
-are distinctly unsightly. The brightest effect of all
-green-barked plants is that given by Whortleberry,
-a plant that on peaty or sandy soils is one of the most
-enjoyable of winter undershrubs.</p>
-
-<p>It would add greatly to the enjoyment of many
-country places if some portions were planted with
-evergreens expressly for winter effect. Some region
-on the outskirts of the garden, and between it and
-woodland, would be the most desirable. If well done
-the sense of wintry discomfort would disappear, for
-nearly all the growing things would be at their best,
-and even in summer, shrubs and plants can do no
-more than this. In summer, too, it would be good
-to see, for the green things would have such an interplanting
-of free Roses, Jasmines, Clematis, Honeysuckles,
-Forsythia, and so on, as would make charming
-incidents of flower-beauty.</p>
-
-<p>The place for this winter walk should be sheltered
-from the north and east. I have such a place in my
-mind's eye, where, beyond the home garden and partly
-wooded old shrubbery, there is a valley running up
-into a fir-wooded hill. The path goes up the hillside<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span>
-diagonally, with a very gentle gradient. In the cooler,
-lower portion there would be Rhododendrons and
-Kalmias, with lower growths of Skimmia and Gaultheria.
-Close to the path, on the less sunny side,
-would be Lent Hellebores and the delightful winter
-greenery of Epimedium. Then in full sun <i>Andromeda
-japonica</i>, and on the shadier side <i>Andromeda floribunda</i>.
-Both of these hard and rather brittle-wooded shrubs
-belong to the group properly named <i>Pieris</i>, and form
-dense bushes four or more feet high. At their foot
-would be the lower-growing Andromedas of the <i>Leucothoē</i>
-section, with lissome branches of a more willow-like
-character. These make a handsome ground-carpeting
-from one to two feet high, beautiful at all
-seasons&mdash;the leaves in winter tinted or marbled with
-red. Portions of the cooler side would also have
-fringes of Hartstongue and Polypody, both winter
-ferns. Then, as the path rose into more direct sunlight,
-there would be Cistuses&mdash;in all mild winter
-days giving off their strong, cordial scent&mdash;and the
-dwarf Rhododendrons. Behind the Cistuses would
-be White Broom, finely green-stemmed in winter.
-There would even be shrubs in flower; the thick-set
-yellowish bloom of Witch Hazel (<i>Hamamelis</i>) and the
-bright yellow of <i>Jasminum nudiflorum</i>. Then groups
-of Junipers, and all the ground carpeted with Heath,
-and so to the upper Fir-wood. Then, after the comforting
-greenery of the lower region, the lovely colour
-of distant winter landscape would be intensely enjoyable;
-for the greys and purples of the leafless woodland
-of middle distance have a beauty that no summer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span>
-landscape can show. In clear weather the further
-distances have tints of an extraordinary purity, while
-the more frequent days of slightly distant haze have
-another kind of beautiful mystery.</p>
-
-<p>The common Laurel is generally seen as a long-suffering
-garden hack, put to all sorts of rather ignoble
-uses. It is so cheap to buy, so quick of growth, and
-so useful as an easily made screen that its better use
-is, except in rare instances, lost sight of. Planted in
-thin woodland and never pruned, it grows into a small
-tree that takes curious ways and shapes of trunk and
-branch of a character that is remarkably pictorial.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span></p>
-
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII<br />
-
-<small>FORM IN PLANTING</small></h2>
-
-
-<p>If in the foregoing chapters I have dwelt rather insistently
-on matters of colour, it is not that I under-rate
-the equal importance of form and proportion, but
-that I think that the question of colour, as regards its
-more careful use, is either more commonly neglected
-or has had fewer exponents. As in all matters relating
-to design in gardening, the good placing of plants in
-detail is a matter of knowledge of an artistic character.
-The shaping of every group of plants, to have the best
-effect, should not only be definitely intended but
-should be done with an absolute conviction by the
-hand that feels the <i>drawing</i> that the group must have
-in relation to what is near, or to the whole form of
-the clump or border or whatever the nature of the
-place may be. I am only too well aware that to many
-this statement may convey no idea whatever, nevertheless
-I venture to insist upon its truth. Moreover,
-I am addressing this book to the consideration of
-those who are in sympathy with my views of gardening,
-among whom I know there are many who, even if they
-have not made themselves able, by study and long
-practice, to show in groundwork and garden design
-the quality known to artists as <i>drawing</i>&mdash;by which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a><br /><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
-meant a right movement of line and form and group&mdash;can
-at least recognise its value&mdash;indeed its supreme
-importance&mdash;when it is present, and do not, in its
-absence, fail to feel that the thing shown is without
-life, spirit, or reasonable justification.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="AWILDHEATHGARDEN">
-<a href="images/i_275.jpg">
-<img src="images/i_275thumb.jpg" alt="" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><i>A WILD HEATH GARDEN.</i><br />
-
-<i>Upper Figure: As First Planted.</i><br />
-
-<i>Lower Figure: After Alteration.</i></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Even a proficiency in some branch of fine art does
-not necessarily imply ability to lay out ground. I have
-known, in the intimate association of half a lifetime,
-a landscape painter, whose interpretation of natural
-beauty was of the most refined and poetical quality,
-and who truly loved flowers and beautiful vegetation,
-but who was quite incapable of personally arranging
-a garden; although it is more usual that an artist
-should almost unconsciously place plants well.</p>
-
-<p>It is therefore not to be expected that it is enough
-to buy good plants and merely to tell the gardener
-of average ability to plant them in groups, as is now
-often done with the very best intention. It is impossible
-for the gardener to know what is meant. In all
-the cases that have come under my notice, where
-such indefinite instruction has been given, the things
-have been planted in stiff blocks. Quite lately I came
-upon such an example in the garden of a friend who
-is by no means without a sense of beauty. There was
-a bank-like space on the outskirts of the pleasure-ground
-where it was wished to have a wild Heath
-garden. A better place could hardly be, for the soil
-is light and sandy and the space lies out in full sunlight.
-The ground had been thrown about into ridges and
-valleys, but without any reference to its natural form,
-whereas with half the labour it might have been guided
-into slight hollows, ridges, and promontories of good<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span>
-line and proportion. I found it planted as in the
-upper plan; the path stiffly edged with one kind of
-Heath on one side and another kind on the other;
-the back planting in rectangular blocks; near the
-front bushes of Veronica at exactly even distances,
-and between them the same number of Heaths in
-each interval quite stiffly planted. Some of the blocks
-at the back were of Violets&mdash;plants quite unsuited
-to the place. Yet, only leaving out the Violets, all
-the same plants might have been disposed so as to
-come quite easily and naturally as shown on the
-lower plan. Then a thin sowing of the finer Heath
-grasses, to include the pathway, where alone they
-would be mown, and a clever interplanting of wild
-Thyme and the native Wood Sage (<i>Teucrium Scorodonia</i>),
-common on the neighbouring heaths, would
-have put the whole thing together and would have
-given the impression, so desirable in wild planting,
-of the thing having so happened, rather than of its
-having been artificially made.</p>
-
-<p>In planting or thinning trees also, the whole ultimate
-good of the effect will depend on this sense of form
-and good grouping. If these qualities are secured,
-the result in after years will be a poem; if they are
-neglected it will be nothing but a crop.</p>
-
-<p>I can imagine nothing more interesting than the
-guiding and part-planting of large stretches of natural
-young woodland with some hilly ground above and
-water at the foot. As it is, I have to be content with
-my little wood of ten acres; yet I am truly glad to
-have even that small space to treat with reverent
-thankfulness and watchful care.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a><br /><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p>
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
-
-
-<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
-
-
-<div class="index">
-<ul class="index">
-<li class="ifrst">A</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Abutilon vitifolium, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Acanthus, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">as tub plant, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Achillea, The Pearl, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Adonis, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Æsculus, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Agapanthus, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Agathea cœlestis, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ageratum, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Alexandrian Laurel, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Alpenrose, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Alyssum, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Amelanchier, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Anchusa, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Andromeda, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Anemone sylvestris, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">japonica, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Annuals, half hardy, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">hardy, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Apples, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arbutus, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Arenaria balearica, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">montana, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Artemisia stelleriana, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Asarum, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Asters, China, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">perennial, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">August, Flower-border in, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aubrietia, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Aucuba, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Azalea, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">B</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bambusa tessellata, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">as tub plant, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bay, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bedding plants, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Begonias, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">with Megasea, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Blue flowers, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Blue garden, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Briars, Scotch, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Broom, white, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Bulb-border, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">C</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Camassia, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Campanula pyramidalis in steps, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">persicifolia, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">lactiflora, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Campanulas in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Canna, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Canterbury Bells, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Caryopteris, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Catmint, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Chalky banks, plants for, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span></li>
-
-<li class="indx">China Rose, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Choisya ternata, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cineraria maritima, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cistus, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Clematis montana, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">C. davidiana, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">C. Flammula, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">C. recta, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">C. Vitalba, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Climbing plants, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colour, in woodland, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">scheme of Rhododendrons, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">of old Scotch Fir, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">tender in spring garden, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">strong in spring garden, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colour-combinations, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colour, optical effect of, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">gardens of special, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">of paint for garden accessories, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Colour-planting for winter, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coltsfoot, variegated, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Columbines, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Coreopsis, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Corydalis ochroleuca, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cottage gardens, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Cranesbill, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Crown Imperial, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">D</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Daffodils, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dahlias, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">best kinds for border use, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Daphne Mezereon, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Delphinium Belladonna, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">grandiflorum, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dentaria, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Desmodium penduliflorum, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dictamnus, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dielytra spectabilis, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Dog-tooth Violet, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Drifts in planting, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">E</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Elymus, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in the grey garden, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Empty spaces in borders, filling up, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Epilobium, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Epimedium, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Eryngium, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Eulalia, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Euphorbia Wulfenii, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Evergreens for winter effect, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Exochorda, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">F</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fern, Lady, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Osmunda, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Fern, Male, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">dilated shield, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Polypody, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">hardy Ferns, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Ferns in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fern walk, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Feverfew, Golden Feather, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fig, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Flower-border, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Form in planting, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Forsythia suspensa, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Foxgloves, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Francoa, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fruit garden, beautiful, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fuchsia, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Fumaria bulbosa, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Funkia, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">F. Sieboldi as tub plant, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">G</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Galvanised iron roof, treatment of, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gaultheria, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gentiana asclepiadea, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Geranium ibericum, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Geraniums (Pelargonium), <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gladiolus, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Godetia, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gold garden, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">plants for, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Golden Elder, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Golden Plane, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Goodyera, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gourds, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Green-barked shrubs, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Green garden, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Grey garden, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">plants for, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Grey plants, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Grouping of plants, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Guelder Rose, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Gypsophila, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">H</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Heath, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">path, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Helenium pumilum, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Helianthus, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in the Gold garden, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hellebores, Lent, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Heracleum, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Heuchera Richardsoni, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hidden Garden, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hill-side for planting, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hollyhock, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Hydrangea, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">as tub plants, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">H. paniculata, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">I</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Iberis, see Spring-garden, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ipomæa Heavenly Blue, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Iris, dwarf, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Cengialti, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">flag-leaved, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">special borders of, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">J</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Jasminum nudiflorum, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">July, flower-border, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">June garden, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">climbers in June, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Juniper, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">K</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kalmia, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Kerria, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">L</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Laburnum, arch of, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lavender, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">dwarf, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Laurel, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ledum palustre, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lent Hellebores, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Leycesteria formosa, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lilies, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in the grey garden, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lilium auratum, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">longiflorum, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">giganteum, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">candidum, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lily of the Valley, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lithospermum, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lobelias, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Lupines, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">tree lupines, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">as tub plants, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">M</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Magnolia, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">conspicua, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">stellata, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Maiden's Wreath, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Maize, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Marigold, African, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">May-blooming shrubs, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Megasea, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in bulb-border, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in spring garden, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">in pots, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mertensia, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mowing-machine, track of, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mulberry, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mulching the flower-border, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Mullein, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Myosotis, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Myrrhis, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Myrtle, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">N</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Narcissus, in bulb-border, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Nepeta Mussini, with grey plants, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Nut-walk, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">O</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Olearia Haastii, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">O. Gunni, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Orchard, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">wild orchard, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Orobus vernus, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Othonna, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">P</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Paint for tubs, &amp;c., <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Paths, wood, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Papaver rupifragum, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">P. pilosum, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">P. orientale, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pea, White Everlasting, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pentstemons, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Peonies, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Peony albiflora, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Peony, tree, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">as tub plants, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Perowskya, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Phlomis, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Phlox divaricata, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">amœna, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">stellaria, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pictures, living, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">some garden, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Planting in drifts, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Plumbago capense, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Polygonum, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pots, plants in, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Primrose Garden, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Privet, golden, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pyrus japonica, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Pyrus malus floribunda, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">Q</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Quarries, desirable for planting, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">R</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Reed, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Reedmace, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rhododendron, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ribbon Grass, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Robinia, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rocky hillside, planting for, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rosa altaica, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Burnet Rose, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Fairy Rose, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rosemary, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Roses, garden, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">with coloured bark, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Roses, rambling, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rubus nutkanus, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">odoratus, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">deliciosus, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rudbeckia Golden Glow, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Rue, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Ruscus, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">S</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Salvia splendens, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Santolina, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Scillas, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sea Kale, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sedum spectabile, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Senecio artemisiæfolius, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">September, Flower-border in, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Skimmia, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Smilacina, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Snapdragons, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Solanum crispum, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">jasminoides, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Solomon's Seal, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Special colouring, gardens of, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spiræa Aruncus, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Lindleyana, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Spring garden, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stachys, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">lanata, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Staking and supporting, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">St. Bruno's Lily, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Stonecrops on iron roof, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sweet Cicely, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Sweet Verbena, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">T</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tamarisk, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Thalictrum, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Thyme, wild, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tiarella, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Training down tall plants, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Training plants one over another, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Trientalis, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Trillium, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tritoma, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tubs, plants for, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Tulips, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">U</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Uvularia, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">V</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Valerian, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Veratrum, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Verbascum, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Veronica Traversi, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Veronicas as tub plants, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Vine, Claret, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">Vine, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">W</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wallflower, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wall shrubs, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Water Elder, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Whortleberry, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wild gardening, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Willows, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Winter colour, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Winter walk, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Witch Hazel, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Woodland, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Wood paths, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">wood and shrubbery edges, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Woodruff, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li>
-
-
-<li class="ifrst">Y</li>
-
-<li class="indx">Yew hedges, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li>
-
-<li class="indx">Yucca, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>;</li>
-<li class="isub1">raised borders for, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li></ul>
-</div>
-
-
-
-<p class="center">
-<small>Printed by <span class="smcap">Ballantyne &amp; Co. Limited</span><br />
-Tavistock Street, London</small>
-</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a><br /><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a><br /><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p>
-
-</div><div class="chapter">
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-<div class="figcenter" >
-<img src="images/i_287.jpg" alt="THE GARDEN" />
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-<p><small>Since "The Garden" has been reduced from threepence to one penny,
-its success has been extraordinary. It meets the requirements of both
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-has been much appreciated. All branches of gardening
-are fully considered, and descriptions and illustrations in colour and black and
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-
-<p><small>"The Garden" is THE gardening paper wherein to learn the best ways
-of making a success of the smallest and largest gardens. It is a paper for all
-to study who wish to thoroughly master the art of gardening.</small></p>
-<hr class="small" />
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-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span></p>
-
-
-<p>
-<i><big>The "Country Life"<br />
-Library</big></i>
-</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads3">
-THE CENTURY<br />
-BOOK OF GARDENING
-</p>
-
-<p class="center">(SECOND EDITION)</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">Edited by E. T. COOK. A comprehensive Work for every Lover of
-the Garden. 624 pages, with about 600 Illustrations. 21s. net; by post,
-21s. 10d.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads2">Times.&mdash;"No department of gardening is neglected, and the illustrations of famous and
-beautiful gardens and of the many winsome achievements of the gardener's art are so numerous
-and attractive as to make the veriest cockney yearn to turn gardener."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p>
-GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS<br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="center">(FOURTH EDITION)</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">A Handbook to the Garden. By E. T. COOK. 12s. 6d. net; by post,
-13s.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Spectator.&mdash;"Full of information about both the useful and the ornamental, and as far as
-we have been able to test it, eminently practical. The beginner, by the way, will have gone a
-long way before he has assimilated the contents of this stout volume of nearly five hundred
-pages; but then <i>alia aliis curæ</i>, and the wider the choice that is offered by a volume of this
-kind the better."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">
-TREES AND SHRUBS<br />
-FOR ENGLISH GARDENS<br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By E. T. COOK, Editor of <span class="smcap">The Garden</span>. 12s. 6d. net; by post,
-12s. 11d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Gardeners' Chronicle.&mdash;"A good book on trees and shrubs is a real want. Few books
-are more often enquired for, and until now we have had a difficulty in replying to our
-correspondents who have asked for information on the point. In these days of trashy gardening
-books, it is a pleasure to come across one which bears the stamp of original observation,
-judicious inference, and industrious research."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">
-ROSES FOR ENGLISH GARDENS
-</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By Miss GERTRUDE JEKYLL and Mr. E. MAWLEY.
-Illustrated with 190 full-page Plates. 12s. 6d. net; by post, 12s. 11d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Daily Chronicle.&mdash;"All the roses of England, blossoming in a counterfeit summer of black
-and white, seem to be gathered together into Miss <span class="smcap">Jekyll's</span> charming book. The pictures are
-really pleasant to look at; near or far a rose photographs quite as well as a beautiful face, and
-carries with it its own individual look. No one can fail to be captured by Miss <span class="smcap">Jekyll's</span>
-enthusiasm and fine discrimination."</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span></p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">
-LILIES FOR ENGLISH GARDENS<br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">Written and compiled by Miss GERTRUDE JEKYLL. 8s. 6d. net;
-by post, 8s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Westminster Gazette.&mdash;"'<span class="smcap">Lilies for English Gardens</span>' is a volume in the 'Country
-Life' Library, and it is almost sufficiently high commendation to say that the book is worthy of
-the journal. Miss <span class="smcap">Jekyll's</span> aim has been to write and compile a book on Lilies which shall tell
-amateurs, in the plainest and simplest possible way, how most easily and successfully to grow
-the Lily&mdash;which, considering its great beauty, is not grown nearly so much as might be expected.
-We certainly think that in the future there will be less neglect of this flower, for after looking at
-some of the illustrations (all admirable and admirably produced), there will not be many
-garden owners who will be content to be Lilyless."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">
-WALL AND WATER GARDENS<br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By Miss GERTRUDE JEKYLL. Containing instructions and hints
-on the Cultivation of suitable plants on Dry Walls, Rock Walls, in
-Streams, Marshpools, Lakes, Ponds, Tanks and Water Margins. With
-133 full-page Illustrations. 186 pp., 12s. 6d. net; by post, 12s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Times.&mdash;"'<span class="smcap">Wall and Water Gardens.</span>'&mdash;He who will consent to follow Miss <span class="smcap">Jekyll</span>
-aright will find that under her guidance the old walls, the stone steps, the rockeries, the ponds
-or streamlets of his garden will presently blossom with all kinds of flowers undreamed of, and
-become marvels of varied foliage. More than a hundred photographs help to enforce Miss
-<span class="smcap">Jekyll's</span> admirable lessons."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">
-GARDENING MADE EASY<br />
-</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">Price 1s. net; by post, 1s. 3d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By E. T. COOK, Editor of <span class="smcap">The Garden</span>. An instructive and practical
-gardening book of 200 pages and 23 Illustrations, all showing the way
-certain gardening operations should be performed. Every phase of gardening
-is included. The beginner will find this a most helpful guide in the
-cultivation of flowers, vegetables and fruits. It is the A B C of gardening.</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="center">A NEW AND CHEAPER EDITION OF</p>
-
-<p class="pads3">
-THE FRUIT GARDEN<br />
-</p>
-
-<p>By GEORGE BUNYARD, V.M.H., and OWEN THOMAS, V.M.H.</p>
-
-<p class="center">Price 12s. 6d. net; by post, 13s.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Royal Horticultural Society Journal.&mdash;"Without any doubt the best book of the sort
-yet published. There is a separate chapter for every kind of fruit, and each chapter is a book
-in itself&mdash;there is, in fact, everything that anyone can need or wish for in order to succeed in
-fruit growing. The book simply teems with illustrations, diagrams, and outlines. The diagrams
-on pruning are particularly admirable; we cannot speak too highly of them, and from them
-anyone should be able to teach himself to be an expert pruner. The book winds up with 100
-pages of outline drawings, which should be a wonderful aid to identification."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Manchester Courier.&mdash;"If in England fruit culture ever receives the attention which is
-imperatively demanded, the present volume will undoubtedly be looked back upon as a notable
-contributory factor to that result. It is not merely that the writers are men of the highest
-experience who are also clear and capable wielders of the pen, but they have laid under
-contribution the experiments, achievements, and lessons of other nations.... It would be
-impossible to find elsewhere, under one cover, such a mass of useful, stimulating, well-arranged
-and up-to-date information regarding fruit culture."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Tablet.&mdash;"It is a compilation by men who know their work, and deals with the whole
-question in the most practical manner. None of the writers waste words in mere description or
-exhortation. Plain directions are given for the cultivation of the different sorts of fruits, their
-planting, pruning, and cropping, and the best sorts indicated."</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span></p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">SWEET VIOLETS AND PANSIES,
-AND VIOLETS FROM MOUNTAIN AND PLAIN</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">Written by several authorities, and Edited by E. T. COOK, Editor of
-<span class="smcap">The Garden</span>, Author of "Trees and Shrubs," &amp;c. Price 3s. 6d. net;
-by post, 3s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">This interesting subject has never been treated in the same way as set forth in this illustrated
-book. There are chapters upon the culture of sweet violets in winter and in the open garden,
-upon Heartsease and the Tufted Pansies (Violas), and upon the Wild Violets that have been
-introduced from America and elsewhere. The information is thoroughly practical. It is a
-dainty gift-book to gardening friends.</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">THE BOOK OF BRITISH FERNS</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By CHAS. T. DRUERY, F.L.S., V.M.H., President of the British
-Pteridological Society. Price 3s. 6d. net; by post, 3s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">St. James's Gazette.&mdash;"Has been most carefully done; no fewer than seven hundred
-choice varieties are described. The book is well and lucidly written and arranged; it is
-altogether beautifully got up. Mr. <span class="smcap">Druery</span> has long been recognised as an authority on the
-subject."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads3">CARNATIONS, PICOTEES,
-AND PINKS</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">Edited by E. T. COOK. Price 3s. 6d. net; by post, 3s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">The border Carnation, the Picotee, the Malmaison, and the Tree Carnation. Carnations
-for Exhibition and for town gardens, diseases of the Carnation, and the garden Pinks and Wild
-Pinks are all fully considered, and thoroughly practical information by experts is given on each
-subject.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Manchester Courier.&mdash;"There is little left unsaid on the subject of Carnations and Pinks
-in Mr. <span class="smcap">E. T. Cook's</span> interesting book on the subject.... All lovers of those popular flowers
-should purchase Mr. <span class="smcap">Cook's</span> volume, the illustrations to which are not its least admirable
-feature."</p>
-<hr class="small" />
-
-<p class="pads3">MY GARDEN</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By EDEN PHILLPOTTS. 12s. 6d. net; by post, 12s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">The World.&mdash;"It is a thoroughly practical book, addressed especially to those who, like
-himself, have about an acre of flower garden, and are willing and competent to help a gardener
-to make it as rich, as harmonious, and as enduring as possible. His chapters on irises are
-particularly good."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Westminster Gazette.&mdash;" ... will attract no less for its literary charm than for the
-varied and interesting experiences which it details.... Mr. Phillpotts is a gardener every inch
-of him, whatever else he may be, and his book is not only a sound contribution to the literature
-of gardens, but withal a very captivating one."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Scotsman.&mdash;"A charming addition to a beautiful series, the 'Country Life' Library."</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span></p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads4">IN ENGLISH HOMES</p>
-
-<p class="center"><small>VOLS. I. AND II</small>.</p>
-
-<p><small>The internal Character, Furniture, and adornments of some of the most
-notable houses of England depicted from photographs specially taken by
-CHARLES LATHAM. These large and handsome volumes measure
-16 in. by 11&frac14; in., each contains about 200 full-page plates and 150 smaller
-plates, illustrating "Our goodly English Dwelling-places, those houses which
-have been sanctified by the passing of centuries." £2 2s. each net; by post,
-£2 3s.</small></p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Scotsman.&mdash;"A veritable revelation of the wealth of internal adornments, architectural
-and other, contained in the great country mansions of England. To turn over the pages of the
-volume is to obtain keen pleasure, as well as enlightenment, concerning a treasury of domestic
-art and archæology which to a large extent is kept closed from the common eye."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Morning Post.&mdash;"Such a work as <span class="smcap">In English Homes</span> comes as something of a revelation.
-One may have a general idea, or even some particular knowledge of the splendours of architecture,
-decoration, furniture, and works of art appertaining to our country mansions, and yet be
-astonished at all the taste and magnificence represented in the profusion of excellent photographs.
-The abundant illustrations are well designed to exemplify the elaborate details of carving and
-plaster work, as well as the bold architectural schemes that characterise the interiors and
-exteriors of the house."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="center"><small>VOLS. I. AND II. NOW READY</small></p>
-
-<p class="pads4">GARDENS OLD AND NEW</p>
-
-<p><small>(The Country House and its Garden Environment.) Over 450 Superb
-Illustrations in each Volume, printed on treble thick Art Paper, portraying
-in a manner never before attempted the greatest and most interesting Gardens
-and Homes in England.</small></p>
-
-<p class="center"><small>2 Vols., £2 2s. net each; by post, £2 3s. each</small>.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Scotsman.&mdash;"'<span class="smcap">Gardens Old and New</span>' is a pictorial and descriptive record of some of
-the finest gardens in England. Each is illustrated by numerous photographs, which are not
-only on a considerable scale, but are reproduced in a most sumptuous fashion. In each case
-there is a descriptive article, which tells when the house was built, what have been the fortunes
-of its owners, and when and how its gardens have been laid out. It is a book from which those
-who are fortunate in the possession of a garden may learn much of garden-craft, while those who
-are not thus fortunate can derive much pleasure from the contemplation of the magnificent
-views with which the book is adorned."</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span></p>
-<hr class="small" />
-
-<p class="pads4">THE GARDENS OF ITALY</p>
-
-<p><small>Being a series of illustrations, from photographs specially taken by
-CHARLES LATHAM, of the most famous examples of those magnificent
-features of garden arrangement and architecture for which Italy, pre-eminently
-the earliest home of the garden, is noted. The same care and
-fastidious selection which distinguished <span class="smcap">Mr. Latham's</span> previous work, <span class="smcap">In
-English Homes</span>, has been exercised in these volumes, and the spirit and
-atmosphere of the scenery have been caught with entire success. This most
-important work, which forms a handsome companion to <span class="smcap">In English Homes</span>,
-contains about 300 plates, and is issued in two volumes, handsomely bound
-in cloth. £3 3s. net the Two Volumes; by post, £3 4s.</small></p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Westminster Gazette.&mdash;"The natural and artistic beauties of the famous palace or villa
-gardens of Italy are most admirably illustrated, and with such variety and success as must be
-reckoned among the triumphs of photographic work."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Globe.&mdash;"The illustrations are among the best of their kind that we have seen, especially
-in their rendering of distances of contrasted effects of light and shade. The grouping of architectural
-subjects&mdash;often an insurmountable difficulty&mdash;is managed with skill, the artist's feeling
-for composition enabling him frequently to make a good picture out of the material which is
-hardly within the photographer's customary limits."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Yorkshire Post.&mdash;"In the two handsome volumes a clear idea is given by illustrations
-and letterpress, of the wonderful beauty of places to which the ordinary tourist seeks admittance
-in vain."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads4">A GARDEN IN VENICE</p>
-
-<p><small>By F. EDEN. An account of Mr. Eden's beautiful garden on the island
-of the Guidecca at Venice. With 21 collotype and 50 other illustrations.
-Parchment limp, 10s. 6d. net; by post, 10s. 11d</small>.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Glasgow Herald.&mdash;"Written with a brightness and an infectious enthusiasm that impart
-interest even to technicalities, it is beautifully and rarely pictured, and its material equipment
-is such as to delight the lover of beautiful books."</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span></p>
-<hr class="small" />
-
-<p class="pads4">ECONOMIES IN DAIRY FARMING</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">A New and Important Work on Dairying, by Mr. ERNEST
-MATHEWS (the well-known Judge and Expert). 7s. 6d. net;
-by post, 7s. 10d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">The Journal of the Bath and West of England Society.&mdash;"The author of this
-book is so well known among farmers, especially those interested in the selection and judging of
-cows, that his name and experience alone will go far to ensure that his views receive the attention
-they deserve. He has for many years past been judge in all the most important butter
-tests which have been held at our principal agricultural shows."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads4">WHERE THE FOREST MURMURS</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By FIONA MACLEOD, being a Series of Nature Essays. 6s. net;
-by post, 6s. 4d.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Morning Post.&mdash;"No other than Fiona Macleod could so have transfigured Nature into
-dream, no other writer could have expressed with such unity of spirit the Celtic attitude in terms
-of country things. She finds the charm of the mountain in their contemplation from the valley,
-the forest most vividly itself when the twigs are bare and the mosses shrouded in snow, the
-most luminous moment of the cuckoo's year in its first days of silence, and her love of all
-things greatest when they have just been taken away."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Daily Telegraph.&mdash;"There is everywhere a sense of the haunting mystery of the
-processes of the world viewed through the eyes of a simple unsophisticated nature, which, from
-perpetual brooding upon the face of the deep, has caught something of the misty air and
-broken music of the waves. Suggestion, rather than doctrine, is the atmosphere of the work;
-and in a certain vague, but beautiful suggestiveness, the strange but eager-hearted prose of this
-writer abounds to the very brim."</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads4">SEASIDE PLANTING OF TREES
-AND SHRUBS</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By ALFRED GAUT, F.R.H.S. An interesting and instructive book
-dealing with a phase of arboriculture hitherto not touched upon. It is
-profusely illustrated, and diagrams are given explaining certain details.
-Those who have gardens and estates on exposed coasts will find the book
-of immense assistance, and, judging by the remarks of the writer, it is
-astonishing what beautiful results may be achieved on such coasts when
-sufficient protection is afforded. 5s. net; by post, 5s. 4d.</p>
-
-<hr class="small" />
-<p class="pads4">THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">By Mrs. K. L. DAVIDSON. Containing full and clearly-written instructions
-as to the management of a cold greenhouse, together with a
-list of plants that may be grown therein. 8s. 6d. net; by post, 8s. 10d.</p>
-<hr class="small" />
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="pads4">"COUNTRY LIFE" LIBRARY OF
-SPORT</p>
-
-<p class="center">Edited by HORACE G. HUTCHINSON</p>
-
-<p><small>A Series devoted to Sport and Pastime, each branch being dealt
-with by the most qualified experts on the subjects which they have
-made peculiarly their own. A special feature has been made of the
-reproduction of old sporting prints.</small></p>
-
-<p class="center"><small>Illustrated. Demy 8vo, Cloth</small>.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads3">CRICKET</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">With over 80 Illustrations taken from the most interesting of the old
-Cricketing prints. 12s. 6d. net; by post, 12s. 11d.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads3">SHOOTING</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">In Two Volumes, 12s. 6d. each net; by post, 12s. 10d. each.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Pall Mall Gazette.&mdash;"Will prove a welcome and valuable addition to Standard Sporting
-Literature.... The subject is treated from a thoroughly practical and modern standpoint; in
-its views and information it is entirely up-to-date."</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads3">FISHING</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">With Coloured Plates of Salmon and Trout Flies. Over 250 Full Page
-Illustrations with various diagrams. In Two Volumes, 12s. 6d. each net;
-by post, 13s.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Morning Post.&mdash;"Few books on any sport, and perhaps none on fishing, have ever
-deserved better the description 'thorough.' To its title-page might well have been added the
-motto of the Royal Agricultural Society, 'Science with Practice,' and to the title itself, 'The
-Angler's Encyclopædia.' From Cornwall to John o' Groats, from Wales to Norway, from
-Florida to India and Burma&mdash;here you may find what there is to be caught and how to catch
-it. And no detail seems to have been overlooked. Localities, baits, tackle, choice of rods,
-methods of casting, likely times&mdash;all are fully covered by experts who write from long experience,
-and not because they spend odd days of the week going a-fishing and resolved to write a
-book about it.... The book is profusely, delightfully, and usefully illustrated.
-The salmon flies are excellent, and so are the prints showing right and wrong methods of
-casting, bringing in a fish, and gaffing.... 'Fishing' has fully achieved its stated object of
-providing such information as may make a man an intelligent and a successful angler if he has
-an average brain and a love for craft."</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads3">BIG GAME SHOOTING</p>
-
-<p class="pads1">With over 200 Illustrations from Photographs showing Animals in their
-actual habitat and natural environment. In Two Volumes, 12s. 6d.
-each net; by post, 12s. 11d. each.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Manchester Courier.&mdash;"Encyclopædic in its scope, the work becomes by its value and
-interest a standard authority on the subjects treated."</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="pads4">GOLF GREENS and GREEN KEEPING</p>
-
-<p class="center"><small>10s. 6d. net; by post, 10s. 10d.</small></p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Yorkshire Daily Post.&mdash;"The practical worth of the volume is nearly equal to the
-combined worth of all the books that have been written on the theory and practice of golf."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Pall Mall Gazette.&mdash;"Each article is written by a man who knows his subject, and the
-book is brightened by a number of most admirable and helpful photographs. It will be useful
-to secretaries of links already established, and even more so to gentlemen who are thinking of
-pegging out a new course; and we have no hesitation in saying that it should be on the library
-shelves of every golf club pavilion in the kingdom as a valuable practical treatise."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Irish Times.&mdash;"This is the first book on the subject. It is an excellent book, and one
-which every member of every green committee should read and re-read."</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads4">HALF A CENTURY OF SPORT IN
-HAMPSHIRE</p>
-
-<p><small>Being Extracts from the shooting journals of JAMES EDWARD, second
-Earl of Malmesbury, with a prefatory memoir by his great grandson, the
-Fifth Earl. Edited by F. G. AFLALO. 10s. 6d. net; by post, 10s. 11d</small>.</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Liverpool Daily Courier.&mdash;"The book is of great interest, and an important contribution
-to the literature of sport and natural history. It is charmingly illustrated."</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads4">POLO&mdash;PAST AND PRESENT</p>
-
-<p class="center"><small>By T. F. DALE. 12s. 6d. net; by post, 12s. 11d.</small></p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Scotsman.&mdash;"A work than which there could be no better document of a man's claim to
-speak with authority. This treatise is learned in the ancient history of the game, well informed
-and exact in its directions as to how it is played in the various quarters of the globe, and broad
-minded in its suggestions of an international code for the furtherance of its future prosperity. It
-has many admirable illustrations, and a delightful chapter of personal reminiscences, discusses all
-the practical business of the game with a knowledge which the most expert will be the readiest
-to value highly, and brings together into a well-stocked appendix a collection of rules and regulations
-and a list of clubs which materially increase the usefulness of the book for purposes of
-reference. The volume promises at once to take rank as a book of first importance in the
-literature of its subject."</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="center"><span class="xl">COUNTRY LIFE</span></p>
-
-<p class="center">THE JOURNAL FOR ALL INTERESTED IN
-COUNTRY LIFE AND COUNTRY PURSUITS</p>
-
-<p>Subscription Prices per annum (Post free): Inland, 29s. 2d.;
-Foreign, 47s. Weekly, Price, 6d.</p>
-
-
-<p><small>Country Life is a weekly journal addressed to all interested in country
-life and country pursuits. One of its main features is the celebrated
-series of <span class="smcap">Country Homes</span> and <span class="smcap">Gardens Old and New</span>; in each
-number a country seat, remarkable either for its beauty or something
-peculiarly instructive in the architecture of the house, gardens or grounds, is
-elaborately illustrated in a manner that has proved of high service to those
-engaged in building and laying out or improving their estates. Other
-features of rural life are dealt with in an equally thorough manner. The
-methods pursued on our most famous estates and farms are minutely
-described, and photographs of the finest pedigree stock and the best
-machinery are given. All forms of healthy outdoor sport are described and
-illustrated in their season. In no case, however, are the facts set forth dry,
-as the journal numbers among its contributors some of the most graceful and
-accomplished writers of the present day. New books are also described and
-discussed by competent critics, so that altogether the journal is calculated to
-give the best news and views on all subjects that are of interest in cultivated
-circles, and the wholesomeness and fine open-air feeling that pervades its
-pages have almost become proverbial. <span class="smcap">Country Life</span> has, in fact, become
-indispensable</small>.</p>
-
-
-<p class="pads2">Dally Telegraph.&mdash;"'Country Life' is generally admitted to be the most beautifully
-produced of all the weeklies. Its process illustrations are unmatched, and the letterpress is
-always carefully selected and good in quality."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Westminster Gazette.&mdash;"To say of 'Country Life' that it is one of the best of our
-illustrated productions is stating only half a fact, inasmuch as in some of its features it stands
-alone. Its splendid gallery of stately mansions, beautiful interiors, and grand old gardens are
-incomparable."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Daily Mail.&mdash;"'Country Life' has established itself as the most beautifully produced
-weekly journal in the world."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Daily News.&mdash;"There is no feature of life in the country that is untouched, and a bound
-volume of 'Country Life' is a real joy to possess and frequently to turn over."</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Spectator.&mdash;"'Country Life' amply fulfils its promise of being 'the journal for all
-interested in country life and country pursuits.'"</p>
-
-<p class="pads2">Liverpool Daily Courier.&mdash;"There is scarcely a number without one or more contributions
-of literary or other interest which will stand reading, re-reading and study."</p>
-
-
-<p><span class="xs">LONDON: PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF "COUNTRY LIFE," LTD., TAVISTOCK ST.,
-COVENT GARDEN; AND BY GEORGE NEWNES, LTD., SOUTHAMPTON ST., STRAND, W.C.</span></p>
-<hr class="chap" />
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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