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diff --git a/old/50759-0.txt b/old/50759-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5fc20d2..0000000 --- a/old/50759-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3329 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Grocers' Goods, by Frederick Bartlett Goddard - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Grocers' Goods - A Family Guide to the Purchase of Flour, Sugar, Tea, Coffee, - Spices, Canned Goods, Cigars, Wines, and All Other Articles - Usually Found in American Grocery Stores - -Author: Frederick Bartlett Goddard - -Release Date: December 24, 2015 [EBook #50759] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROCERS' GOODS *** - - - - -Produced by WebRover, Lisa Anne Hatfield, Chris Curnow and -the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -Italic text enclosed with _underscores_. - -Small-caps replaced by ALL CAPS. - -More notes appear at the end of the file. - - - - -[Illustration: - - Price, 20 Cents. - - Grocers’ Goods: A Family Guide. - - THE TRADESMAN’S PUBLISHING COMPANY, - Tribune Building, - NEW YORK CITY. - -] - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - GROCERS’ GOODS: - - - A FAMILY GUIDE - - - TO THE PURCHASE OF - - - FLOUR, SUGAR, TEA, COFFEE, SPICES, - CANNED GOODS, CIGARS, WINES, - - - AND ALL OTHER ARTICLES - - - - Usually Found in American Grocery Stores. - - - - - BY F. B. GODDARD. - - COPYRIGHTED 1888. - - - - - THE TRADESMEN’S PUBLISHING COMPANY, - TRIBUNE BUILDING, - NEW YORK CITY. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - Index List of Grocers’ Goods. - -Housekeepers will find this list suggestive and helpful in making up -orders for the Grocer, as well as useful for page reference. - - - PAGE. - Adulterations 6 - Ale 62 - Allspice 41 - Almonds 50 - Apples 44 - Apples, Dried 48 - Artificial Butter 30 - Asparagus 47 - - Bacon 35 - Baking Powders 16 - Bananas 45 - Barley 13 - Bath Brick 58 - Beans 47-48 - Beef, Dried 35 - Beef, Fresh 34 - Beer 62 - Berries 45-49 - Beeswax 58 - Bird Seed 57 - Biscuit 16 - Blacking 57 - Blended Tea 24 - Bluing 55 - Brandies 63 - Brazil Nuts 50 - Bread 15 - Brooms 56 - Brushes 56 - Buckwheat 14 - Burgundy Wines 60-64 - Butter 28 - Butterine 30 - - Cabbage 46 - California Wines 61-64 - Candies 19 - Candles 55 - Canned Goods 36 - “ Meats 37 - “ Fish 37 - “ Vegetables 38 - “ Fruits 38 - Cans, Tin 38 - Capers 43 - Carrots 47 - Cassia and Buds 41 - Catsups 44 - Cauliflower 47 - Celery 47 - Celery Salt 42 - Cereals 10 - Champagne 61 - Cheese 31 - Cherries 44 - Chicory 27 - Chocolate 27 - Cider 63 - Cigars 51 - Cigarettes 52 - Cinnamon 41 - Claret Wines 60-64 - Clothes Pins 56 - Cloves 41 - Cocoa 27 - Cocoanuts 45 - Cod Fish 35 - Coffee 24 - Condensed Milk 28 - Condiments 39 - Cordials 64 - Corn 12 - Corn Starch 12 - Crackers 16 - Cranberries 45 - Cream 28 - Cream of Tartar 16 - Cucumbers 47 - Currants 45-49 - Curry Powders 41 - - Dates 50 - Disinfectants 58 - Distilled Liquors 63 - Dried Fruits 48 - - Eggs 33 - Egg Plant 48 - Essences 39 - Extracts 39 - - Farinaceous Foods 14 - Feed, for Stock 15 - Figs 49 - Filberts 50 - Fish 35 - Flavoring Extracts 32 - Flour 11 - Fruits 44 - “ Domestic 44 - “ Tropical 45 - “ Dried 48 - “ Brandy 39 - “ Canned 39 - Fruit Butter 39 - - Garlic 47 - Gelatine 39 - Gin 64 - Ginger 40 - Ginger Ale 63 - Glucose 18 - Gooseberries 45 - Graham Flour 12 - Grapes 44 - Greens 48 - Green Corn 47 - Groats 14 - Grocers’ Sundries 58 - - Halibut 53 - Ham 35 - Herbs 39 - Herring 35 - Hints to Housekeepers 8 - Hominy 13 - Honey 19 - Horseradish 43 - - Insect Powder 58 - Isinglass 39 - - Jams 39 - Japan Tea 24 - Jellies 38 - - Koumiss 28 - Ketchup 44 - - Lager Beer 62 - Lard 33 - Lemons 45 - Lentils 48 - - Madeira Wine 64 - Maccaroni 17 - Mackerel 35 - Malt Liquors 62 - Mace 41 - Maple Sugar 18 - “ Syrup 18 - Marmalades 39 - Matches 57 - Meal 12 - Meat Extracts 36 - Meats, Canned 37 - “ Fresh 34 - “ Smoked 35 - Melons 48 - Milk 9-28 - Mineral Waters 61 - Molasses 19 - Mops 56 - Mustard 40 - Mutton 34 - - Nuts 50 - Nutmegs 41 - - Oatmeal 13 - Oil, Salad 43 - Olives 43 - Oleomargarine 30 - Onions 47 - Oranges 45 - Oyster Plant 48 - - Pails 58 - Parsnips 47 - Pea Nuts 50 - Peaches 44 - “ Dried 49 - Pears 44 - Pearl Barley 13 - Peas 47-48 - Pecan Nuts 50 - Pepper 40 - Pepper, Cayenne 40 - Pepper Sauce 44 - Pickles 43 - Pipes 51 - Pine Apples 45 - Plums 44-49 - Pork 34 - Porter 62 - Port Wine 59-61 - Potatoes 46 - Poultry 34 - Preserves 38 - Prunes 49 - - Radishes 47 - Raisins 49 - Rice 14 - Rhine Wines 60-64 - Rhubarb 47 - Rum 64 - Rye Flour 13 - - Sago 15 - Salads 48 - Salad Dressings 43 - Saleratus 16 - Salmon 35 - Salt 42 - Samp 13 - Sauces 43 - Seeds 57 - Shells 27 - Sherry Wine 59-61 - Shoe Dressing 57 - Snuff 53 - Soaps 53 - “ Toilet 54 - “ Shaving 54 - Soups Canned 37 - Soda 16 - Spaghetti 17 - Spices 39 - Squash 48 - Starch, Laundry 55 - Stove Polish 57 - Stout 64 - Strawberries 45 - Sugar 17 - Sundries 58 - Sweet Potatoes 46 - Syrups 19 - - Tamarinds 50 - Tapioca 15 - Tea 21 - Tobacco, Chewing 51 - “ Smoking 51 - Tomatoes 47 - Tongues 35 - Turnips 47 - - Veal 34 - Vegetables, Fresh 46 - “ Canned 38 - Vermicelli 17 - Vinegar 42 - - Washboards 46 - Wines and Liquors 59 - Wheat 10 - Whiskey 64 - - Yeast 16 - - - - - GROCERS’ GOODS. - - A FAMILY GUIDE. - - -In the ancient times of twenty-five or thirty years ago, the grocer’s -goods consisted chiefly of codfish, flour, sugar, tea, coffee, salt, -molasses and whale oil. There were also a little candy in glass jars, -some nuts in bins, a few drums of figs and a box of sour oranges. The -grocer himself found plenty of time to talk politics and play checkers -across the counter with his friends and neighbors. Those were the days -when a few conservative old merchants used to meet and discuss the tea -market and allot among themselves the quantity to be imported, not a -pound of which could arrive under twelve or fifteen months. - -But things have changed. The importer now flashes his order under the -sea and on, over plains and through jungles to China. “Ocean tramp” -steamships are waiting to receive his merchandise, and within thirty or -forty days it may be sending up its grateful fragrance from tea tables -in the Mississippi Valley. - - - THE MODERN GROCER. - -Nor has the enterprising retail grocer of to-day failed to catch the -spirit of this progress and keep even step with it. He has become the -Popular Food Provider, and his store represents about everything which -is palatable in either hemisphere or any zone. As the world has grown -enlightened and refined, his stock has become more and more varied and -better adapted to the wants of mankind, until it embraces every delicacy -of the land, sea or air. - -His cunningly prepared sauces provoke the appetite and give zest to more -substantial articles, while they help also to digest them. He has food -fitted for the intellectual worker and for the laborer, for the invalid -and for the infant. He practically annihilates the seasons and furnishes -fruits and vegetables in mid-winter, as fresh and delicate as when first -plucked from their native stems or vines. And, moreover, all the goods -upon his sightly shelves are now put up in the most attractive, portable -and convenient form for family use. - - - Food Never Before so Low. - -Nor would a day’s wages ever before purchase so much of food products. -In the English market, for the ten years from 1870 to 1880, the price of -wheat was forty-three per cent. higher than the average of 1886. Sugars -have fallen in price nearly one-half in ten years, and teas, coffee, and -many other articles are proportionately low. - -This is due to improvements in machinery, increased transportation -facilities and the opening up of new and fertile sections of the earth, -under all of which the world’s supply of food has of late years been -greatly in excess of the world’s increase in population; and it is the -grocer who brings these advantages home to our families. - - - Food Adulteration. - -There has long been an uneasy feeling lest many articles of food and -drink were not only mixed with substances which reduced their nutritive -value, but were also often colored with cumulative poisons, and -adulterated with substances injurious to health. - -These fears have not been altogether groundless. There can be no doubt -that this monstrous crime has been practiced to some extent in respect -to certain articles. But, thanks to the diffusion of intelligence, the -teachings of science, the operation of law, the fear of detection and -punishment, and largely, also, by the refusal of conscientious grocers -to sell such unwholesome products; greedy and unscrupulous manufacturers -have been compelled to abandon their vicious practices, and noxious food -adulteration is now comparatively a rare crime. - -Those who desire pure articles can almost always obtain them of a -reputable grocer by paying their value. But in order to supply the -demand for cheaper goods and meet competition, such articles as powdered -spices, etc., are extensively prepared, mixed with harmless substances, -and containing the largest quantity of pure material which can be -furnished at the price for which they are sold. Perhaps, also, such -articles are more economical in the using, and admixtures are sometimes -improvements. - - - Adulteration Laws. - -Yet even this class of adulterated goods is objectionable, from the fact -that there are always dealers who will be tempted to sell them as -“Strictly pure,” thus defrauding the purchaser, out-reaching honest -rivals and losing their own self-respect. Probably, therefore, most of -the upright and leading grocers of the country would be glad to see wise -and effective general laws passed against food adulterations, under -which all could unite and be freed from unfair competition by the -unscrupulous. But laws which will protect both the health and the pocket -are difficult to frame and to execute without being sumptuary and -oppressive. The most effectual and probably the best laws of the kind in -this country at present are the enactments of Massachusetts, New York, -Ohio, New Jersey, and Michigan. - - - Less Adulteration than Commonly Supposed. - -The general Government is also moving in the matter. Last year (1887) -three “Bulletins” were issued at Washington, which deal exhaustively -with current adulterations of dairy products, spices, etc., and -fermented beverages. These reports, made under direction of the -Commissioner of Agriculture, were prepared respectively by Messrs. H. W. -Wiley, C. Richardson, and C. A. Crampton, who state in substance that -they found certain articles extensively adulterated, but generally with -harmless materials. - -The president of the N. Y. Microscopical Society states that many -members of that scientific body have looked into the alleged -adulterations of food products and find them not as general as many -suppose, and the adulterants found were in most cases harmless. - -At the recent “Health Exhibition,” in England, Dr. Jas. Bell declared to -the Conference, that, “In most articles of food there has been a very -great improvement in recent years as regards adulterations,” and that -the “gross and deleterious adulterants formerly used have been -practically abandoned.” This accords also with the recently expressed -opinions of the eminent Dr. Hassall and of many scientific investigators -in this country. - - - Hints to Housekeepers. - -As a rule, whole or unground articles are to be preferred to those which -are powdered; not only because they are less liable to adulteration, but -also because the latter more quickly lose flavor and strength. - -This objection applies also to buying goods in large quantities of -wholesale dealers, for family use. This plan may appear to be -economical, but is generally disadvantageous both to buyer and seller. -Tea, aromatic and ground goods, and many other commodities often -deteriorate in quality before they are used. Servants who can dip their -hands into abundant supplies are apt to become more wasteful. If -articles so purchased do not prove suitable, it is more trouble to -exchange them than with the retail dealer who sells in smaller -quantities and is in daily contact with his customers. And, besides, an -honest man who studies the daily wants of the families of his community, -and adapts his business to supplying them with good articles in -convenient quantities and at fair prices, has a right to expect -consideration and encouragement from his friends and neighbors. - - - The Daily Food of a Model Man. - -A healthy man, weighing, say, one hundred and fifty-four pounds, -consists of water one hundred and nine pounds, and of solid matter -forty-five pounds. His blood weighs about twelve pounds, or, when dry, -two pounds. The quantity of food substances he should consume every day, -and their relative proportions necessary to keep him vigorous and well, -are stated by Prof. Johnston to be about as follows: - - lbs. oz. - Water 5 8-3/4 - Albumen, fibrin, gluten, etc. 4-1/4 - Starch, sugar, etc. 11-1/2 - Fat 3-3/4 - Common salt 3/4 - Phosphates, potash salts, etc. 1/3 - -If for a time the proper balance of constituents is not preserved in the -food, even though the health may not appear affected, the laborer can do -less work, a frail constitution is engendered and the person becomes -more susceptible to disease. - - - Variety in Food. - -If any constituent is deficient we must supply it; hence variety in food -is not only agreeable but necessary to health. Albumen, fibrin, casein -and gluten build up the muscles and tissues, while starch, sugar and fat -produce the warmth and energy of the body. The mineral substances are -necessary for the framework—the bones. Grains, fruits and vegetables -contain starch and sugar and more or less gluten; meats contain fibrin -and albumen; milk, casein, etc. - - - Beef and Bread - -have the following composition: - - Lean Wheaten - beef. Bread. - - Water 77 40 - - Fibrin or gluten 19 7 - - Fat 3 1 - - Starch 0 50 - - Salt and other 1 2 - minerals - - ―――― ―――― - - 100 100 - -This shows that the main difference between beef and bread is that the -meat contains no starch, and nearly three times as much of the muscle -making fibrin as the proportion of gluten (which is similar in many -respects) in wheaten bread. - -The water, climate, season, age, habits, etc., all have to do with the -choice of food we eat. Besides the quantity of nourishment contained in -the food, there is also the question of the ease and completeness with -which it can be digested and assimilated. It is not always fat eaters -who are the fattest. - - - Milk. - -Woman’s milk is considered the type of human food when the conditions -approach that of the child, as the milk of the mother is the natural -food of all young animals. Milk partakes of the nature of both animal -and vegetable food. It contains: - - Human Cow’s - milk. milk. - - Water 89-1/2 87 - - Casein 1-2/8 4 - - Butter or milk fat 2-1/4 3-1/2 - - Sugar of milk 6-1/8 4-3/4 - - Salts or ash 1/4 3/4 - - ――――――― ―――――― - - 100 100 - -These are average analyses. The casein is equivalent to the gluten of -vegetables or the fibrin of meat, and the sugar to starch. - -With these few general observations, let us pass on to consider in -detail the Grocer’s Goods. - - - - - THE CEREALS. - - - WHEAT. - -The cereal grains consist of solidified vegetable milk, drawn from the -bosom of Mother Earth. But two of them all are used for making light and -spongy bread with yeast, and wheat has the universal preference because -it contains all the elements necessary to the growth and sustenance of -the body. It makes bread which is more inviting to the eye and more -agreeable to the taste. It is the highest type of vegetable food known -to mankind, and it is claimed that the most enlightened nations of -modern times owe their mental and bodily superiority to this great and -beneficent product. - -There is little if any difference in the nutriment or value of spring -and winter wheat. Some prefer the one and some the other. Southern -raised wheat is apt to be drier than northern and will better stand the -effects of warm climates. Wheat varies in weight per bushel as the -season is wet or dry. The best is round, plump and smooth. It contains -about fifteen parts of water, sixty-five to seventy-five parts of -starch, and about ten parts of gluten. The average annual production of -wheat in the United States during the past eight years has been -448,815,699 bushels; an increase over the preceding ten years of -forty-four per cent., while the increase of population has been only -twenty-five per cent. - - - Wheaten Flour. - -Wheat was formerly ground by mill stones, and the product bolted and -sifted into the different grades. But during the last twelve years, this -process has been largely superseded by the “Patent Roller” process of -crushing and separating the flour from the bran. This is a great -improvement over the old method; more flour is obtained from the wheat, -and it is whiter, contains more gluten, and is therefore stronger. - -The first consideration is the color or whiteness; second, the quantity -of gluten the flour contains. The eye determines the first, and a hasty -test of the quantity and quality of the gluten may be made by squeezing -some of the flour into a lump in the hand. This lump will more closely -show the prints of the fingers, and will hold its form in handling with -considerable more tenacity if the flour is good, than if it is inferior -and deficient in gluten. - -Grocers and bakers test flour by smoothing a little out on a board with -a knife or paper cutter, to see its color, and if it contains specks of -bran, etc., which may show that it has not been well bolted or -“dressed.” To determine the quantity and strength of the gluten, they -mix some of the flour with water, and judge by the tenacity of the -dough—the length to which it may be drawn out by the fingers, or spread -into a thin sheet. - -Injury to flour is shown most quickly in the gluten, which may lose its -vitality. The gluten of good flour will swell to several times its bulk -under a gentle heat, and give off the pleasant odor of hot bread, while -the gluten from poor flour swells but little, becomes viscous or nearly -fluid, and smells disagreeably. - - - Points for Purchasers of Flour. - -As starch is whiter than gluten, whiteness is therefore really no -indication of the sweetness and strength of flour; and, although flour -becomes whiter with age and will take up more water and make a whiter -loaf, many prefer freshly ground flour for family use, as being better -in flavor, while others claim that flour will “work better” if kept for -some time after grinding. - -The brand or word “Patent” on packages of flour has come to signify, not -that the flour is really patented, but that it is or should be finest -quality. Fancy brands may mean little; they are put on at the whim of -the maker. Flour is rarely adulterated at present, but good and poor -grades are sometimes mixed. Inferior grades of flour are largely -exported, while the best are mainly used at home. Graham flour is ground -wheat from which the bran has not been removed. - -Flour is put up in barrels of one hundred and ninety-six pounds net -weight, and in muslin sacks of various weights. Families everywhere -invariably want “the best,” and dealers often adopt the excellent plan -of buying quantities of some very choice and tried grade of flour and -selling it in convenient sized packages for family trade, under their -own brand and guarantee. - - - Corn or Maize. - -This is one of the most beautiful of plants, and the Indians formerly -ascribed to it a Divine origin. Hiawatha watched by the grave of the -Spirit Mondamin, - - “’Till at length a small green feather - From the earth shot slowly upward, - Then another and another, - And before the summer ended - Stood the maize in all its beauty, - With its shining robes about it, - And its long, soft, yellow tresses.” - -Indian corn contains more oil or fat than any of the common cereals. It -will make as white and fine flour as wheat, but this does not make good -fermented bread, unless mixed with wheaten flour. CORN MEAL is -healthful, nutritious and cheap, but, owing to its fat, is prone to -attract oxygen and spoil, especially in warm weather. There are two -kinds, one WHITE, the other GOLDEN YELLOW. They are equally nutritious, -and about the same in price. Some prefer the one and some the other, but -probably the yellow is rather the most popular. The starch extracted -from corn is very extensively used throughout the country, and such -leading brands of CORN STARCH as those of Kingsford, Duryea, etc., are -well known. In fact, the consumption of all the products of corn is -enormous. - -SAMP is corn deprived of its skin and eye and left whole or cracked in -halves. HOMINY is corn ground or cracked into coarse, medium or fine -grains, and pearled or polished. DRIED CORN, largely prepared by the -Shakers, is sweet corn boiled and dried. It is excellent and much used -as a vegetable. - - - Rye Flour. - -Rye ranks next to wheat for bread making, and is equally nutritious. It -yields less flour and more bran than wheat, contains more sugar, and is -darker in color. Its gluten has less tenacity and it will not make as -light and spongy bread as wheat flour, hence is little used in this -country. Rye flour should contain a little of the bran, as this has a -pleasant, aromatic flavor. The “Black bread,” so extensively eaten in -portions of Europe, is made of rye flour. It is dark, heavy and sourish, -but like all rye bread, has the property of keeping moist a long time. -Two parts of wheat with one of rye flour makes wholesome and palatable -bread. - - - Barley. - -This grain is less nutritious and less digestible than wheat, but -contains more sugar and more of the phosphates, and is also cooling. It -will not make good bread, but is sometimes used for the purpose, mixed -with wheaten flour. - -PEARL BARLEY is the whole grain freed from its hulls like rice. It is -used in soups, etc., and is sold by all grocers. In the best qualities -the grains are large and well rounded. It is sold in bulk and in pound -packages. - - - Oatmeal. - -Oats are substantial, nutritious and wholesome, being rich in gluten and -fat. Oatmeal for the table is made from kiln dried, large, white oats, -freed from the husks. Alone it does not make good bread. If long used as -a sole or chief food it is reputed to overtax the digestive organs, heat -the blood, and produce eruptions of the skin. Many claim, however, that -these effects are due solely to insufficient cooking of the meal or -porridge, and there are excellent preparations in market which have been -well cooked by steam and afterwards dried. - -Besides these there are various brands of Scotch, Irish, Canadian and -American oatmeal, “Crushed,” “Rolled,” “Granulated,” etc., also oat -“AVENA,” “FARINA,” etc. GROATS are the whole kernels of oats deprived of -their husks. The consumption of oatmeal has vastly increased within five -or six years, and is rapidly becoming universal. Salt only _after_ -cooking. If added before, salt tends to harden the meal and prevent its -swelling. - - - Buckwheat. - -This grain may be classed with wheat as regards its nutritive qualities. -It contains thirteen or fourteen per cent. of water, about fifteen per -cent. of gluten, and sixty or sixty-five per cent. of starch. It will -not make good fermented bread, but its delicious cakes are an essential -and attractive feature upon American breakfast tables everywhere, -especially in cool weather. It is sold in bulk and is also put up in -three and six pound packages. - - - Rice. - -Although this grain is the main food of one-third of the human race and -is very easily digested, it contains too little gluten and fat and too -much starch to be considered alone as a perfect food for man. Rice has a -slightly constipating effect but is an excellent and wholesome -occasional article of diet, and one which could not well be spared from -the family list. Rice is sold deprived of its husk. It is imported from -the East Indies, but the best is the fine, large head rice of the -Carolinas. As some of the most valuable qualities of rice dissolve out -in hot water, it should be steamed until tender, rather than boiled. - - - Farinaceous Foods. - -These are very numerous and some of them are excellent. Among them may -be named the “CEREALINE FLAKES,” made from white corn; CRACKED and -CRUSHED WHEAT, WHEATEN GRITS, FARINA, which is the inner part of the -wheat granulated, SELF-RAISING, BUCKWHEAT and other FLOURS; “WHEATLET,” -“GRAINLET,” “GRANUM,” “FARINOSE,” “MAIZENA,” MANIOCA, INFANT FOOD, MILK -FOOD, ARROW ROOT, CORN STARCH of various makes, GRAHAM FLOUR, BOSTON -BROWN BREAD MIXTURES, etc. Many of these preparations are eaten with -milk, and prove valuable additions to the family diet. - -SAGO is the pith of an Indian palm steeped in water until it becomes a -paste, then formed into little balls by rubbing it through a perforated -plate. The best is the whitest. TAPIOCA is the pith of the Manihot tree, -washed like sago, but granulated differently. Both are nutritious and -easily digested, and are made into puddings, often with fruit, and eaten -with milk or sauce. - - - Bread. - -One hundred pounds of good, fine, wheaten flour will take up forty-five -pounds of water, and yield one hundred and forty-five pounds of bread. -The proper and legal weight of bread is while it is hot. A four pound -loaf loses in twenty-four hours one and one-quarter ounces; in -forty-eight hours five ounces; in seventy hours nine ounces. The -quantity of water which flour will absorb depends largely on the -proportion and quality of the gluten. The best flours absorb most, and -will take up more in dry than in wet seasons; hence a dry season is good -for the baker. Thorough kneading increases the absorption of water, and -should be continued until none of the dough will stick to the hand. - - - Feed for Stock. - -Among the articles largely used as food for animals are the refuse -products of the various grains made in preparing them for human -consumption; as, for instance, the refuse left in the pearling of -barley, or in making hominy and samp; dried BARLEY SPROUTS from malt, -low grade flour; MIDDLINGS, which are a mixture of bran and flour; BRAN, -etc. Besides these, OATS, white, black and mixed, and vast quantities of -Southern and Western CORN are also used for stock, ground into coarse -meal. - - - Bread Raising Materials. - -Fermentation, says Liebig, is not only the simplest and best, but -likewise the most economical way of making light and porous bread. - -YEAST is a true fungous plant, which has the power of establishing -fermentation and changing starch into sugar, and the escaping gas makes -the loaf light and spongy. Hops prevent too great fermentation and -impart an agreeable flavor. BREWERS’ YEAST is largely used when -obtainable, and there are many domestic modes of preparing yeast from -potatoes, flour, etc. - -DRIED YEAST.—But as all these fresh yeasts are liable to spoil and -affect the bread unpleasantly, there is an extensive demand for a yeast -which shall possess the same properties and which may be kept a long -time. Hence, the various brands of yeast cakes sold by the grocer. They -are made usually by adding corn meal to the yeast and carefully drying -the cakes in the sun. It is singular that a fall or sudden jar may -injure yeast cakes and deprive them largely of their qualities. - -CREAM OF TARTAR, BI-CARBONATE OF SODA, BI-CARBONATE OF POTASH -(SALERATUS), are all used in bread making, and are to be had in all -sorts of packages of the grocer. Cream of tartar is tartrate of potash, -and is made from the argols found incrusted upon the inside of wine -barrels. It should be white, and not yellowish in tint. The effect of -these chemicals in raising bread is due chiefly to the liberation of the -carbonic acid gas they contain when mixed with water, incorporated with -the dough and put in the oven, and the great requisite is that they -should be pure and unadulterated. - -BAKING POWDERS are much used for making light and palatable domestic -biscuits, etc. They are convenient, and generally lessen the quantity of -shortening required. They are made chiefly of tartaric acid and -bi-carbonate of soda, and should be neutral to the taste, and without -effervescence if either an acid or alkali is added. One popular variety, -called “Phosphatic Baking Powder,” consists of acid phosphate of lime -instead of cream of tartar, with soda. - - - Biscuits, Crackers, etc. - -The word biscuit means twice baked, and is a survival from the ancient -mode of cooking the cakes which is now no longer in use. Plain biscuits -are said to be more nutritious than bread in the proportion of five to -three, and are most digestible when light and well browned in baking, so -as to turn much of the starch into dextrine. Sea biscuit or ship bread -is made simply of flour and water baked at a high heat. In the large -cracker bakeries the dough is mixed, rolled and cut by machinery and the -cakes travel on through patent ovens until baked, when they drop out -into baskets. Those made by hand are, however, considered best. - -The variety of biscuits and crackers in market is utterly bewildering. -These are among the standards: BOSTON, SODA, BUTTER, OYSTER, SUGAR, -FRUIT, MILK, ENGLISH ALBERT, WATER, CREAM, GINGER, LEMON, OATMEAL, -CARAWAY, VANILLA, and dozens more kinds of biscuits, crackers and wafers -at various prices; besides GINGER and LEMON SNAPS and JUMBLES, and even -DOG BISCUIT. There is also CRACKER DUST, for frying oysters, fish, etc. -Some of the above come in handsome tin packages. - -MACCARONI, VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI.—These are all made from the dough of -the hardest and most glutenous Southern wheat, and the domestic are -inferior to the Italian or French. The best will merely swell and soften -after long boiling, and still retain its form. Maccaroni is in small -tubes, spaghetti in small stems, and vermicelli in threads or shreds. -Letters, stars, and other figures are also made from the same material -or paste; all are largely used in soups. EGG NOODLES are ribbon -maccaroni. - - - - - SUGAR AND THE SWEETS. - - -This necessity of modern life ranks as one of the most important -articles among the grocers’ goods. Two hundred years ago it was sold -chiefly by the apothecaries, but is now consumed in all parts of the -world to the extent of many millions of tons annually. Sugars have been -divided into four kinds, viz.: cane sugar, found in stems; grape sugar, -found in fruits; manna sugar, found in leaves; and milk or animal sugar. - -There are many varieties of the sugar cane which contain from twelve to -twenty per cent. of sugar; these are cut, crushed, and the juice boiled -down and clarified with lime, etc.; the sugar crystallizes and leaves -the molasses. The sugar beet contains from seven to thirteen per cent. -of sugar, which, when raw, is unpleasant, but when refined is identical -with cane sugar. The fact that the molasses of the sugar beet, although -colorless, is very disagreeable, has retarded the beet sugar -manufacture, but it is a great and growing industry. The sap of the -sugar maple contains about two per cent. of MAPLE SUGAR, which is -identical with cane sugar, and may be made white, but is preferred -brown, as containing more of the rich maple flavor. About seven thousand -tons of maple sugar are annually made in the New England States. MAPLE -SYRUP is extensively sold by grocers in cans, bottles, etc. - -GRAPE SUGAR OR GLUCOSE.—The sweetness of ripe fruits is due to the -starch which they contain, passing, under the ripening influence of -nature, into grape sugar. Substances may consist of the same elements, -but different proportions may greatly vary their properties. For -instance, starch and sugar consist merely of carbon and water. Grape -sugar contains more water than starch, and cane sugar more than grape -sugar. - -Now, long boiling of starch in pure water produces little change upon -it; but it was found that if a little sulphuric acid is added, the -starch will take up more water and become entirely converted into grape -sugar. And this is substantially the way in which commercial glucose is -made. The acid is neutralized by lime, and the liquor boiled down into -solid grape sugar or syrup. - -CANE SUGARS are sweeter than grape sugars in the proportion of five to -three; hence, three pounds of cane sugar are worth five pounds of grape -or starch sugar for sweetening purposes. This is the reason why grape -sugar is used to adulterate cane sugar, and it is the only adulterant -used at present to any extent. - -One pound of water will dissolve three pounds of cane, but only one -pound of grape sugar. The latter has a gummy taste on the tongue and -dissolves slowly. A small grained sugar may carry some glucose and -perhaps escape detection, but the crystals of a large grained sugar will -always be brilliant in contrast with its contaminating ingredients, and -thus proclaim the fraud. In other words, inferior sugars have a dull -look, while good sugars are bright. Glucose sugars melt at one hundred -and five degrees, C., while cane sugars melt only when heated to one -hundred and thirty-seven degrees, C. Raw sugars are no longer used. They -should be refined to free them from the repulsive sugar mite and other -impurities. The best sugar is always the most economical. - -THE BEST GRADES OF FAMILY SUGAR are the cut loaf, cubes and crushed. -Next in market value, in the order in which they stand, are powdered, -granulated, A sugars, C sugars, white, yellow, extra golden, etc., down -to common yellow. - -SYRUPS.—These are the uncrystallized residue in refining brown sugars. -They are diluted, filtered through animal charcoal, and concentrated. -The lighter the color the higher the price. The better qualities are -called “Rock Candy Drips,” “Golden Drips,” etc. - -MOLASSES.—The choicest are the New Orleans Fancy, Choice, Prime. Good, -etc., down through the same grades of Porto Rico, to the Cuba Muscovado. -The quality of molasses has deteriorated with improvements in the -manufacture of sugar on plantations, and it is sometimes sold mixed with -glucose. - -HONEY.—Consists of eighty parts in a hundred of pure grape sugar with an -acid and aromatic principle. Spring honey is better than that made in -autumn, and that from clover or other fragrant flowers is better than -that of buckwheat. - - - Sugar Candies. - -Whatever dangers may have lurked in confectionery in times past, parents -may now be assured that they can gratify the natural and healthy -appetite of their children for sweets, without fear of poisonous -colorings or harmful adulterants. - -The “National Confectioners’ Association,” (an organization formed by a -large proportion of the leading manufacturing confectioners of the -United States,) “is pledged by its constitution and by-laws to prosecute -all parties using poisonous colorings, terra-alba, or other mineral -substances in the manufacture of confectionery.” They invite fathers and -others interested to report any supposed case of injury from eating -poisoned candy, and “offer a reward of one hundred dollars for evidence -that will enable them to convict the offender.” It is the opinion of the -editor of the _Weekly Confectioner_, and of many prominent manufacturing -confectioners in New York, as expressed to us, that in all the land -there is now no product of domestic manufacture and consumption which is -more free from poisonous colorings and injurious adulterants than -confectionery. - -But more than this: in 1886 this association passed an amendment to its -constitution forbidding any member, under penalty of expulsion, to buy -or sell “any candy adulterated with flour, corn meal, starch, or -cerealine, except such amount of starch as is necessary to the -manufacture of gum goods and fig paste work.” Many confectioners, -however, think this action was ill advised. - - - Making Candy, etc. - -Glucose or grape sugar now enters largely into the manufacture of many -kinds of confectionery, and harmless vegetable colors are used. -Manipulation breaks up the crystals of sugar and thereby renders it -whiter, and the difference in the price of candies is now largely due to -the amount of manipulation it receives. Few have an idea of the vast -quantities of confectionery manufactured. It amounts to many hundred -tons daily; much of it is made almost entirely by machinery, and the -business is divided. For instance, one firm makes only lozenges, another -gum drops, caramels or licorice, marshmellow, etc. Jobbers supply -retailers. - -If synthetic or chemically prepared flavoring extracts are used, they -are such only as are guaranteed harmless. - -French imported “Bon Bons” are still superior to the domestic, and so -are their candied violets; but rose leaves iced here are equal to the -imported. Licorice candies are having an increased demand yearly. -Cocoanut candy contains usually a large admixture of the harmless -cerealine. Space will not permit more than a reference to the great -variety of confections in market. Among them are stick and lump candies -in scallops and patties, with mottoes, etc., assorted and in various -colors; mixed candies in various forms and flavors, gum drops, lozenges, -white, red and assorted; rock candies, etc. - - - - - FAMILY BEVERAGES. - - - TEA. - -This staple necessity of modern life is now consumed by more than five -hundred millions of people, and its use appears to grow with the growth -of civilization. There is but one species of the tea plant and its -varieties are due to differences of soil and climate. China alone -produces annually nearly a million and a half tons of tea; to say -nothing of the teas of Japan, Corea, Assam, and Java. - - - Effects of Tea. - -Tea exhilarates without intoxicating; rouses the mind to increased -activity without reaction, while at the same time it soothes the body, -dispels headache, and counteracts the effects of fermented liquors and -narcotics. It lessens also the waste of the tissues under the labors of -life. - -As an English authority says: “When the time has arrived to the old and -infirm, that the stomach can no longer digest enough of the ordinary -elements of food to keep up the waste of the system, and the size and -weight of the body begins to diminish, tea comes in as a medicine to -arrest this loss of tissue.” No wonder then that the aged, the infirm -and the poor should take kindly to tea. If supplies of food are scanty -it lessens the need for them, while it makes them feel more light and -cheerful, and contributes to their enjoyment. - - - Black and Green Teas. - -Either may be prepared at will from the same leaves; the difference lies -in the mode of treatment. The earliest leaves are the tenderest and best -flavored; later gatherings grow more woody and bitter. Black teas are -spread in the air for some time after gathering, then roasted and rolled -by hand, again exposed to the air, whereby they undergo a slight degree -of fermentation, and finally are dried slowly over charcoal fires. The -leaves for green tea are, as soon as gathered, roasted a few minutes in -pans over a brisk fire, after which they are carefully rolled and -thoroughly dried. - - - Analysis of Tea by Dr. Hassall. - - Black. Green. - - Water 11.56 9.37 - - Tannin 15.24 18.69 - - Gum 5.70 5.89 - - Albuminous matter 15.55 24.39 - - Theine 2.53 2.79 - - Ash 5.82 5.38 - - Chlorophyle, etc. 5.24 1.83 - - Cellulose and other 38.36 31.66 - matter insoluble in - water - - ―――――― ―――――― - - 100.00 100.00 - -The aroma and commercial value of tea are due to a small quantity, (from -1/4 to 1 per cent.) of a volatile oil which it contains. This oil, as in -coffee, is developed by roasting, the fresh picked leaves having neither -an astringent, aromatic, nor bitter taste. But the effects of tea are -due to its theine and tannin. Theine is present in all kinds of tea, as -well as in coffee and cocoa, but it has no flavor. Tannin forms from a -fifth to a seventh of the weight of the dried tea leaf, and is the more -completely extracted the longer the tea is infused, or “draws.” Its -precise effect upon the system is not fully known. Black tea contains -less theine, essential oil, and tannin, than green tea. - -The Chinese pour hot water upon their tea, and drink it clear, and in -Russia a squeeze of lemon takes the place of our cream. The Chinese -sometimes flavor their fine teas with the cowslip colored blossoms of -the sweet-scented olive and other odoriferous plants; and they also -adulterate them with foreign or exhausted tea leaves, or with tea dust, -called “Lie tea.” But good authorities declare that fair grades of tea -are not now much or necessarily adulterated, and that the old idea that -green teas are colored or faced with copper is erroneous; at least -experts have not been able to detect even traces of it. - - - Tea Made to Order. - -There are tea coloring and facing establishments in this country which -use for the purpose substances very similar to those used by the -Chinese, and they have become so expert of late years that they can turn -a black tea into a green (or _vice versa_) at short notice. - -Tea buyers judge quality by the aroma, flavor, and the color and -strength of the infusion. They detect vegetable adulterations by the -shape and size of the leaf when unrolled, and sometimes burn the leaves -and weigh the residue of ash. - - - Gunpowder, Hyson, and Imperial. - -Some of the most experienced tea dealers in New York declare that there -is really no essential difference in the quality of the “Firsts” or -choicest grades of any “Chop” of either Gunpowder, Hyson, or Imperial, -the only difference being in the form or fineness of granulation. But -the popular preference in green tea is for Gunpowder, which is believed -to consist of the first leaves or leaf buds of the plant. It is graded -from “common” or “fair” up to “choicest.” - - - Varieties of Tea. - -Hyson is a widely used green tea. The name is derived from He-chun, a -noted Chinese tea grower. Young Hyson is said to be made from the -earlier leaves; Imperials and Hysons from later gatherings. Hyson skin -is the light inferior leaves winnowed out. Twankay is the poorest of the -green, as Bohea is of the black teas. Pekoe is the best of black teas, -but is little used, except to give fragrance to mixtures. “Capers” is -used similarly to flavor green teas. Congou (made with care) and -Souchong are good black teas, and are the so-called “English Breakfast -Teas.” Moyune teas are considered as among the best and healthiest of -green teas, while Pingsuys are inferior. Cheap teas are most -adulterated. Fine teas are not only better in flavor, but are stronger -and go further. - -Oolong teas have “the call” in popularity with the Americans just now -and they are recommended in sickness by the best physicians. There are -three kinds, the Formosa, Foo Chow, and Amoy. The first two are the -best. An article in the _London Daily News_, of February 18, 1888, avers -that the Chinese are growing neglectful in cultivating, firing, and -fermenting their teas, and that Japan is stealing away the green tea -trade of China, as India and Ceylon are taking that in black tea. - - - Japan Teas. - -A. & A. Low, of New York, imported the first cargo of Japan tea about -twenty years ago, and since then its consumption has constantly -increased. The natural leaf is yellowish brown, and the first Japan teas -brought here were of that color. But the tint has changed. The -“uncolored” Japan tea is in fact now all colored with some substance -like the Chinese green teas, but not injuriously. The “Basket fired” is -the nearest to the uncolored leaf. The “Sun-dried” is very popular here, -and is but slightly colored. Expert tea tasters declare that Japan teas -are more exciting to the nerves than those from China. - - - Blended Teas. - -New crop teas are the best. Japan teas come in June, and Chinese later, -say in July and August. Many prefer a mixture of green and black tea for -family use, and retail dealers often have the knack of so blending the -two that the excellence of each is enhanced. Such a combination has less -effect upon the nerves, and is less expensive than good green tea, while -it may be more delightful in flavor than either black or green tea -alone. - - - COFFEE. - -Coffee has been aptly called the “Beverage of Intelligence.” It quickens -the functions of the brain, arouses all the intellectual faculties, -stimulates and gives clearness to thought and increases the powers of -judgment. It exhilarates the nervous system, counteracts the stupor -caused by fatigue, by disease, or by opium, allays hunger, retards the -waste of the tissues, fortifies the powers of endurance, and to a -certain extent gives to the weary and exhausted increased strength and -vigor, and a feeling of comfort and repose. - -Both tea and coffee are more and more used in proportion to the -intellectual development of modern times. But coffee does not excite the -nervous system as greatly as tea and there is less reaction after it. - - - Coffee Better than Alcohol. - -Coffee tends to lessen the desire for alcoholic drinks, and possesses -some of their properties without their bad effects. Alcohol is a false -and dangerous friend. Its free use enfeebles the vital organs, reduces -the power of resistance, degrades the mind and body and leads on to -poverty, disease, and death. Coffee produces the beneficial effects of -moderate doses of alcohol, without its injurious effects. It does not, -like alcohol, destroy the nerves, or invite immoderation, and even when -used to excess is incapable of doing serious injury. - -The most temperate countries are those which consume most coffee, and in -the light of all these facts it would appear that efforts to extend and -increase the use of coffee tend to check or diminish alcoholism. - - - Coffee Growth and Production. - -Coffee plants are raised from the seed, are set out in 12 months, 450 -plants to the acre, begin to bear in 4 years, mature in 7 years, and -continue for 40 years. The flowers are white and fragrant; the fruit, -which grows in clusters, resembles a red cherry and contains two seeds, -which are the coffee of commerce. - -The world’s total annual production of coffee is about 666,000 tons, of -which Brazil furnishes 360,000 tons. The entire population of the United -States averages to consume, per capita 7-42/100 lbs. of coffee yearly, -more than three-quarters of which comes from Brazil. - -RAW COFFEE, unlike tea, improves in quality with age, while it shrinks -in weight, and inferior coffees may in time equal the choicest -varieties. The aroma is in the direct ratio of its drying by keeping. -Inferior coffees are uneven, often unclean. The large, uniform, dense, -heavy grains are preferred, as showing complete maturity and careful -selection. The color varies from all shades of yellow to tints of brown, -green, and bluish green. There are large establishments in one or more -eastern cities, which assort, color, and polish raw coffees. Much -Brazilian coffee is assorted and sold for Mocha, Java, etc. Real Mocha -is small, round, and dark yellow; Java and East Indian is larger and of -a paler yellow. Ceylon, Brazilian and West Indian have naturally a -bluish green or greenish grey tint. - -ROASTING is necessary to develop the aroma and goodness of coffee. This -delicate operation changes its chemical composition and develops the -caffeine and volatile oil. If roasted too little the coffee retains a -raw taste; if too much, a part is changed to charcoal and much aroma -lost. The outside may be burned and the inside left raw, or some grains -may be half raw and others burned. Coffee loses in weight from 15 to 20 -and even 25 per cent., and gains in bulk from 30 to 60 per cent., -according as it is roasted to a reddish, chestnut, or dark brown. The -best roasting is that which reduces the weight about sixteen per cent., -or to a light chestnut brown. - - - Coffee and Tea Compared. - -Tea yields, weight for weight, twice as much caffeine (or theine) as -coffee; but as we use more in weight of the latter, a cup of coffee -contains about as much caffeine as a cup of tea. The composition of -roasted coffee and the tea leaf are given as follows, although the -proportions are variable: - - Tea. Coffee. - - Water 8 5 - - Theine or caffeine 2-1/2 3/4 - - Tannin 14 4 - - Essential oil 1/2 Trace. - - Minor extractives 15 36 - - Insoluble organic 54-1/2 50 - matter - - Ash 5-1/2 4-1/4 - - ―――――― ―――――― - - 100 100 - - - Modes of Making Coffee. - -One pound of the properly roasted bean or berry should make 55 or 60 -cups of good coffee. Coffee may be made too bitter, but it is impossible -to make it too fragrant. Coffee is much the best when freshly ground. -The French and many Americans merely steep or infuse their coffee at a -temperature just below the boiling point, claiming that boiling -dissipates the aroma; others bring it only to a boil; while others -still, hold that boiling it a little is more economical, as giving an -increased quantity of the soluble, exhilarating and bitter principles. -Soft water is best for coffee, and coffee is better cold than warmed -over, as it then loses its fragrance. - - - Coffee Substitutes and Adulterations. - -Rye, beans, peas, acorns, carrots, turnips, dandelion root, burned -bread, and many similar substances have at times been used as -substitutes or adulterants for coffee. But as none of them contain -caffeine or the volatile aromatic oil, they cannot serve the same -physiological principle. Ground coffee is extensively adulterated, and -mainly with the much cheaper - - - Chicory or Wild Endive. - -Roasting develops in this root an empyreumatic, volatile oil which -exercises upon the system some of the nerve-soothing, hunger-staying -effects of tea and coffee. A little chicory gives as dark a color and as -bitter a taste as a great deal of coffee. It is not unwholesome unless -taken in excess, when its effects are bad. It is a poor substitute for -coffee, but some people seem actually to prefer coffee which contains -chicory. - - - Tests for Adulterations. - -If ground coffee cakes in the paper, or when pinched by the fingers, or -if, when a little is put into water, a part sinks while the rest swims, -and the water becomes immediately discolored, the coffee is probably -adulterated. The more caking and discoloration, the more chicory and the -less value. - -There are numerous brands of ground coffee on the market, and some of -them are very popular and satisfactory. There are also various kinds of -“Extracts” and “Essences” of coffee, and even humble chicory may -sometimes be seen without disguise and nicely put up in yellow papers. - - - Cocoa and Chocolate. - -The theobroma tree grows in Central and South America. The seeds of its -fruit, which are about the size of almonds, are gently roasted, deprived -of their husks and ground to a paste. This is COCOA. If this paste be -mixed with sugar and flavored with vanilla, bitter almonds, etc., it -forms the well known, delicious, and nourishing CHOCOLATE, which may -either be eaten as a confection or drank as a beverage. The husk, which -forms about 10 per cent. of the weight of the bean, is called “SHELLS,” -and used by invalids and others for making a light and delicate infusion -or tea. - -The aroma of cocoa is due to an essential oil which is developed, as -with tea and coffee, by roasting. Its exhilarating principle, -theobromine, resembles theine. It contains a large percentage of fat, is -very rich and nutritious, and may be said to unite in itself the -inspiring properties of tea with the strength-giving qualities of milk. - -Starch, as well as sugar, is sometimes added to cocoa and chocolate by -the manufacturers, and the practice is believed to be justified, owing -to their richness in oil and as better fitting them for digestion. Cocoa -is, however, also prepared free from starch and deprived of a portion of -its oil. There are many preparations of chocolate and cocoa in market, -and they embrace all grades of purity, sweetness and price. - - - - - DAIRY PRODUCTS. - - - Milk, Etc. - -Milk is sophisticated by robbing it of its cream, or by adding to it -“The milk of the cow with the iron tail,” and by coloring it. CREAM -contains about 40 per cent. of fat and 55 per cent. of water; SKIMMED -MILK is water, with sugar and caseine. WHEY is merely a solution of milk -sugar with a little albumen. Milk is best and most plentiful in spring, -and richer but less abundant in dry seasons. The last milk drawn from -the cow contains most cream. KOUMISS, the use of which is rapidly -increasing, is well skimmed milk, treated with a lactic ferment for 30 -or 40 hours. It is very easy of digestion. CONDENSED MILK is ordinary -milk evaporated so that three pints are reduced to one. It soon spoils -unless the air is excluded. PRESERVED MILK in cans contains about -one-third its weight of sugar. - - - Butter. - -Good, fresh butter, contains 84 to 88 parts of milk fat, 10 or 12 parts -of moisture, and a little milk sugar, caseine and salt. inferior butter -may contain as much as 33 per cent. of water, or buttermilk, and salt. -The more buttermilk left in, the sooner the butter grows rancid, while -over-working tends to make it soft and oily. The melting of butter -changes its physical properties, and long exposure to the air injures -the best butter. - -Good butter is solid and of a grained texture, has a fine orange yellow -color and a pleasant aroma. It may comfort the curious to know that its -odor is due to a very little butyric acid, combined with oxide of -lipyle. To test the quantity of moisture, put a little of the butter in -a bottle, heat gently, and leave near the fire for half an hour, when -the butter will rise, leaving the water and salt at the bottom. -Two-thirds of all the butter made is colored. - - - Classification of Butter. - -The New York Mercantile Exchange classification, which is standard, is -as follows: EASTERN CREAMERY, SWEET CREAM CREAMERY, DAIRY BUTTER, -WESTERN CREAMERY, IMITATION CREAMERY, and DAIRY, also “LADLE” and -“GREASE BUTTER.” - -CREAMERY BUTTER is the best. It is such as is made from the cream -obtained by setting the milk at the creamery, or by the system known as -“Cream gathering,” by which the farmer delivers his cream to the -creamery to be churned or made into butter. Butter made under the former -system, or from the milk, is better than that made from the gathered -cream. SWEET CREAM CREAMERY is made from unfermented cream. - -DAIRY BUTTER is that which is made, salted, and packed by the dairyman -or farmer. Though often really excellent, it is less uniform in quality, -and therefore less reliable. - -LADLE BUTTER.—This is butter of all seasons, ages, and qualities, -collected by the dealer, in rolls, lumps, or packages, from the farm -houses, salted, or unsalted, as the case may be, and by him reworked, -resalted, colored, and packed. - -GRADES OF BUTTER.—The varieties are all graded again into “Extras,” -“Extra Firsts,” “Firsts,” “Seconds,” “Thirds,” etc. “EXTRAS” are the -choicest grades under each classification, and must come up to the -following standard. Flavor must be perfect if fresh made, and fine if -held; body perfect and uniform, color good for the season when made, -perfect and uniform; must be properly salted, and in good and uniform -packages. “EXTRA FIRSTS” must be a grade just below “Extras,” and fine -butter; good color, etc., etc. “FIRSTS” must be clean and sweet, sound -and good. “SECONDS” must be fair throughout, may be strong if held, on -tops and sides of package. “Thirds” may be off-flavored, etc. “Poor -Butter” may be strong, and of all grades below “Thirds” down to “Grease -Butter.” - - - Artificial Butter. - -About 20 years ago a French chemist tried to imitate the process which -takes place when cows are underfed, and when, therefore, the butter they -yield is supplied from their own fat. His aim was to make a substitute -for butter for the poor, etc., which should be healthful, agreeable and -cheap, and which should keep a long time without becoming rancid. The -man’s name was Mege-Mouries, and he discovered OLEOMARGARINE. This -product has been, and is still extensively manufactured in the United -States, and is pronounced by some of the most eminent and scientific men -to be wholesome, nutritious and palatable. - -OLEOMARGARINE is made from the fat of slaughtered cattle. This is melted -at a temperature of 150 deg. F., and the stearine extracted. The “Oleo -oil” which is left is now churned with cream or milk, colored and -salted. - -BUTTERINE is made from oleo oil, neutral lard, and some butter. These -ingredients are churned with milk or cream, colored, salted and packed -in tubs. Refined cotton seed oil is also frequently used in the -manufacture of both products. - - - Oleomargarine Laws. - -In 1886 Congress passed the “Oleomargarine Bill,” defining butter to be -an article made solely from milk and cream. It imposes a tax of two -cents per pound upon oleomargarine and similar butter substitutes, -compels their sale in certain sized packages, plainly marked or branded -with the name of their contents, and requires manufacturers and dealers -to take out special licenses, all under heavy penalties. Some of the -State laws, restricting the sale of oleomargarine, are still more -stringent, and its consumption has diminished, although it is still used -in some sections and extensively exported. - - - Cheese. - -No article of food appears to be more affected than cheese by slight -variations of the materials from which it is made, or by such apparently -trifling differences in the methods of manufacture. Both full and -skimmed milk are used; the former yielding, of course, the best product. -The latter cheese is little used in this country. An English writer says -that if milk is skimmed for several days, “it yields a cheese so hard -that pigs grunt at it, dogs bark at it, but neither dare bite it.” -People’s tastes vary greatly in the flavor of cheese, and while some -prefer the natural tint, others buy that which is colored. Color adds -neither richness nor flavor, and is gradually falling into disuse. - - - Cheese as a Staple Food. - -Some nations (as Great Britain, etc.,) consume cheese largely as a -staple food, while others use it more sparingly, and mainly as a -condiment or relish. Bread and cheese consort better with ale than with -whiskey and this country is not greatly given to cheese as a staple -food, although its consumption is increasing here, owing to recent -improvements in the modes of manufacture and in its quality. Two-thirds -of our total product now goes to Europe. - - - Analysis of Full and Skim Milk Cheese. - -The composition of cheese is given as follows: - - Rich Skim - cheese. milk - cheese. - - Water 36 44 - - Casein 29 45 - - Milk fat 30-1/2 6 - - Salt and phosphates 4-1/2 5 - - - Good and Poor Cheese. - -Cheese dries fast and shrinks in weight; hence the grocer who sells it -in small quantities is compelled to charge a fair margin or advance upon -its cost to save himself from loss. The ordinary weight of American -cheeses is about 60 lbs., but smaller ones are growing in favor, and -many are now made weighing from 35 to 40 lbs. A grocer who has a good -class of custom soon realizes that our poor cheese takes the place of -several good ones, and it is his aim to secure a good and popular -quality and stick to it. - - - Facts About Cheese. - -The best cheese is made from the rich June grasses, the poorest in the -heats of summer. June cheese is safest to keep, as the curds are then -scalded higher, to ensure that they will sustain the coming warm -weather. Cheese may be made for immediate use—and such will grow sharp -if long kept—or it may be so made as to keep a year or more with -constant improvement or ripening. It requires about ten pounds of milk -to make one pound of cheese. - -“FILLED” CHEESE is made by substituting lard in place of the cream of -the milk. Ten pounds of such cheese contains about 1 pound of lard. This -product is largely made in some sections, and is chiefly sold in the -South or exported. - - - Classification of Cheese. - -Cheese made in New York, Pennsylvania and Wisconsin has the first “Call” -in the New York Mercantile Exchange. “FANCY” must be full cream, perfect -in flavor, close made, well cured, of uniform color and perfect surface. -“FINE” is the next grade below—must be also full cream, clean flavor, -etc. “KNOWN MARKS” or FACTORY CHEESE may not be full cream. “WESTERN -CHEESE” “Shall include those of all States not mentioned above and shall -be classified as fancy, fine, and known marks, but they may not be full -cream.” - - - Imported Cheese. - -SWISS CHEESE comes from Switzerland, and more of this is imported than -of all others combined. Next stands EDAM from Holland. The delicious -ROQUEFORT CHEESE, made in France, from ewes milk and kept in mountain -caves to ripen, stands third in the list of imported cheeses, and -PARMESAN stands fourth; it is made from skimmed milk, the curd hardened -by a gentle heat. This and SBRINZ cheese are used for soups—grated. -GORGONZOLA is a fine, rich, Italian cheese, each weighing about ten -pounds. Other good Italian cheeses are made from the milk of the buffalo -which feed on the Roman Campagna. STILTON is the finest of English -cheeses. It is made from full milk with added cream. It improves with -age, and is best when at least two years old. The CHEDDAR, CHESHIRE and -QUEEN’S ARMS are other varieties of good English cheese. - - - Eggs. - -Eggs are cheap and substantial food. The white is mostly albumen, while -the yolk is two-thirds oil. Turkeys eggs are pronounced the best in -flavor. Guinea hens eggs are excellent, and keep well on account of -their thick shells. Goose eggs are larger, whiter, and less esteemed. -Duck eggs are bluish, and less desirable than hens eggs. Eight hens eggs -weigh a pound. - -A fresh egg feels heavy in the hand and is semi-transparent before the -light. Its large end feels warm to the tongue. The older it is, the less -pleasant and nutritious it becomes. If it stands upright in water it is -bad; if obliquely it is not quite fresh. If it lies at the bottom it is -quite fresh. An egg begins to lose flavor a few hours after it has been -laid. - - - Lard. - -Good, pure lard should be white, should melt without ebullition or -sputtering, be almost as clear and white as water, and not deposit any -sediment. It is composed of oleine 62 parts, stearine 65 parts. The fat -of the hog taken from around the kidneys and the layers over the ribs is -called “Leaf lard” and is better, firmer and will stand warm weather -better, than lard made from the entire fat of the animal. - -LARD ADMIXTURES.—There is no complaint that lard is adulterated with -substances injurious to health; but in February, 1888, a leading lard -manufacturer testified before the Senate Committee on Agriculture, at -Washington, that seven-eighths of the lard now on the market is made -from the entire fat of the hog, refined and purified, and mixed with a -proportion of refined cotton seed oil and about 15 per cent. of -stearine, to give it hardness. This, he claimed, is preferred by the -public generally to strictly pure lard. The testimony of Prof. -Sharpless, of Boston, given at the same time and place, substantially -bore out this statement as to the ingredients used, although in the many -analyses of American lard made by him, he found some brands which were -absolutely pure hog products. Lard is sometimes adulterated with water, -but this may be easily detected by melting it, evaporating the water, -and reweighing. - -Lard may be had in barrels, wooden and tin tubs and pails, and in one -pound tin cups. It is also retailed in bulk, like butter. - - - Fresh Meats and Poultry. - -BEEF.—Good beef should be juicy, somewhat firm and elastic, velvety and -smooth grained to the touch, and “marbled” with little streaks, dots or -points of fat. The suet fat should be plentiful, white, firm, dry, and -crumbly; if the fat is yellow, oily, or fibrous, the beef is inferior. - -MUTTON is wholesome, nutritious, and easily digested. The best is from a -plump, small boned animal, with abundant white, clear, solid fat. The -lean should be firm, dark red, and juicy, the leg bones clear, white, -and short. GOOD LAMB has hard, white fat and reddish bones. - -PORK is best in fall and winter. The skin should be thin and pearly, the -lean a delicate red, juicy, firm, and finely grained, and the fat white. -If the fat is yellow and soft, the pork is inferior. Pork is dangerous -if not thoroughly cooked. - -VEAL should be from a good sized, reasonably fat milk or stall fed calf, -five to ten weeks old. The fat should be firm and white, but not too -white; the meat finely grained, fairly firm, and juicy. - -POULTRY.—Many farmers have found that it pays better to feed their grain -to poultry than to sell it by the bushel, and poultry is therefore much -more abundant, cheaper, and more widely consumed than ever before. The -dry-picked or unscalded has the preference in price. The best have short -legs and small bones, and are plump. If fresh, the eyes are bright and -full, the feet and legs moist and limber. If stale, poultry looks dark -and slimy. When chickens grow to be a year old they are called fowl; the -legs grow rougher, the skin fat and tougher, and the rear end of the -breast bone hard. A moderate sized TURKEY is more apt to be tender than -a very large one. - - - Smoked and Dried Meats and Fish. - -HAMS, ETC.—The best are of medium size, weighing, say, from 8 to 14 -pounds, plump, round, and the bone small. The shank should be short and -tapering, skin thin and not shriveled or wrinkled, and the fat white and -firm. To ascertain if ham has begun to spoil, thrust a skewer or knife -in at the side of the aitch bone and at the knuckle joint; if sound -there, it is good throughout. BACON.—This is the smoked flank. BREAKFAST -BACON, made from young pigs, is very delicate and palatable. BEEF -TONGUES are a delicacy, whether fresh, smoked, or pickled, hot or cold. -The best are thick, firm, and with plenty of fat on the under side of -the base. - -DRIED COD.—This is an important grocers’ staple. The largest and best -are caught on the “Banks” or in the deep waters off the Eastern coast. -Some are sold whole and others are deprived of the back bone. Codfish is -also prepared for market by being boned, skinned, trimmed, and even -shredded. Other and inferior fish, such as Haddock, Hake, Pollock, etc., -are often sold for cod, when salted, and especially when prepared as -above. - -HERRING, smoked whole, or scaled and boneless, are widely consumed. The -freshest, fattest, and largest are best. Smoked SALMON, HALIBUT, and -STURGEON, are appetizing relishes for the summer tea table. There are -also EELS pickled in jelly. SARDELLES—small fish packed in highly salted -milk, smoked SPRATS, ANCHOVIES, etc. - - - Salt or Pickled Fish. - -Mackerel have the front rank in this line, and there are few good tables -on which they do not occasionally appear. They are sold by the grocer in -barrels and fractions of barrels, in kits of 20, 15, and 10 pounds, in -tins, minus heads and tails, and by the single fish. The best are the -fattest, largest, and freshest of the current season. They should be -free from rust and soaked before cooking until all the brine is drawn -out. They can be afterwards salted, if necessary. They are graded as -“Extra” and “Fancy” “Shores” and “Bays,” and vary in size and fatness, -as numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4. - -SALMON, ETC.—Both Halifax and Oregon salmon are pickled or salted, and -in demand in many sections of the country, and pickled SALMON BELLIES -are very fine. HERRING and COD are also to be had in brine. - - - Meat Essences and Extracts. - -There are several varieties of these articles in liquids, pastes, and -solids. Some, at least, of them, without being true nutrients are -excellent as condiments, stimulants, and tonics for digestion. Meat -juices contain a substance called kreatine, which is similar in its -exhilarating properties to the peculiar principles of tea and coffee. -Fifty pounds of meat are said to be required to make one pound of -Liebig’s meat extract. These preparations are valuable additions to -other foods, but all that is needed for nourishment should be added to -them. - - - - - CANNED GOODS. - - -Until lately, man had done little more in preserving his food in a fresh -condition, than the squirrels which gather and store their nuts and -seeds in a warm, dry place. To be sure, he knew how to dry and smoke, -and the uses of salt and sugar. He had even tried to preserve his meats -and fruits in a fresh state; but his rude methods hardly foreshadowed -the splendid results which have recently been achieved in the line of -canned goods. - - - Excellence of American Canned Goods. - -M. Appert, of France, first patented (in 1810) a process for preserving -animal and vegetable substances in close vessels of glass—after -subjecting them to the action of heat—and an English firm soon after -introduced provisions preserved in tin. But it was reserved for -Americans to lead the world, not only in the magnitude of their canning -industries, but also in the art of preserving meats, vegetables, and -fruits, by processes so delicate and effective, as to retain their -original shape and texture, as well as their freshness and flavor. And, -moreover, while they have practically prolonged the “Seasons” for -perishable food products throughout the entire year, and furnish them -for the consumer at very reasonable rates, the producer has often -thanked them for giving stability to prices in seasons of great “Gluts” -and abundance. - - - Varieties of Canned Goods. - -Among canned goods, in glass or tin packages of various sizes, qualities -and prices, are the following: - - - Canned Meats. - -CORNED BEEF, boiled; ROAST BEEF, BEEF A LA MODE, BOILED HAM, BOILED -TONGUE, ROAST MUTTON, ROAST VEAL, ROAST CHICKEN, ROAST TURKEY, BRAWN, -POTTED MEATS of all kinds; GAME PATES of WILD DUCK, GROUSE, PARTRIDGE, -PLOVER, WOODCOCK; BONED TURKEY AND CHICKEN, with jelly; CURRIED CHICKEN, -DEVILLED CHICKEN, TURKEY, HAM, PIG’S FEET, LAMB’S TONGUES, etc. - - - Canned Soups and Broths. - -BEEF, CHICKEN, GREEN TURTLE, OXTAIL, JULIENNE, MOCK TURTLE, CONSOMME, -MACCARONI, VERMICELLI, PEA, MUTTON BROTH, etc. - - - Fish. - -CLAMS, CLAM CHOWDER, ANCHOVIES, CRABS FRESH, CRABS DEVILLED, CODFISH -BALLS, MACKEREL FRESH, LOBSTER, OYSTERS, PRAWNS, SHRIMP, SALMON, -SARDINES, TROUT, TURTLE, KIPPERED HERRING, BLOATERS, etc. - - - Canned Vegetables. - -ASPARAGUS, Baked, Lima, and String BEANS, GREEN CORN, MUSHROOMS, OKRA, -ONIONS, PEAS, PUMPKIN, SQUASH, SUCCOTASH, SPINACH, RHUBARB, etc. - - - Canned Fruits. - -APPLES, APRICOTS, BLACKBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES, CHERRIES, GRAPES, -GOOSEBERRIES, PEACHES, PEARS, PLUMS, PINEAPPLES, QUINCES, RASPBERRIES, -STRAWBERRIES, etc. - - - Canned Sundries. - -Besides the above, there are “Heaps” of canned delicacies, such, for -instance, as TRUFFLES, TRUFFLE PATES, TRUFFLE DU PERIGORD, in tins and -glass, PLUM PUDDINGS, PLUM PUDDING SAUCES, etc. - -Some of the French vegetables in glass and tin are beautifully green in -appearance, but it is evident that they are artificially colored. A more -wholesome device is to put the articles up in the intensely green -bottles sometimes seen. - -THE TIN CANS.—Tin is mainly used for canned goods, and is the least -objectionable of all the metals, and better than anything probably, -except glass. It does not oxidize easily, and if it does, its soluble -salts are less injurious than those of any other available metal. - - - Jellies, Preserves, etc. - -Jellies are made from nearly all the fruits by mixing their juices with -sugar, and often with gelatine or isinglass, (four parts of which will -convert 100 parts of water into a tremulous jelly) and boiling them -down. Jellies are wholesome, cooling, and grateful, provided they are -free from adulterations and noxious colorings, and are much used upon -the tea table and in the sick room. Among the varieties of jelly in the -market are APPLE, CRAB APPLE, BLACKBERRY, CURRANT, GRAPE, LEMON, GUAVA, -ORANGE, QUINCE, RASPBERRY, STRAWBERRY, etc. They come in tumblers and -jars, and in bulk. There are also CALVES’ FOOT, WINE and SPIRIT jellies. - -PRESERVES.—All the above fruits are preserved in sugar, and put up in -quart and pint jars. CHERRIES, PEACHES, PEARS, etc., are also preserved -in BRANDY, and sold in glass jars. There is also a great variety of JAMS -and MARMALADES, both foreign and domestic; GINGER ROOT, boiled in syrup, -etc. FRUIT BUTTER is made from various fruits, as, Apple, Cranberry, -Peach, Pear, or Raspberry, etc., by stewing them in sugar or molasses. -It is usually sold from pails by the pound, and is much used in some -sections. - - - Flavoring Extracts and Essences. - -The delicate flavors of fruit and the fragrant principles of spice and -other substances, as vanilla, etc., are extracted by pressure or -distillation, and dissolved in spirits of wine for culinary purposes. It -is found also, that certain ethers and oils may be so combined (as, for -instance, potato oil) as to yield the taste and smell of many fruits, -such as pears, apples, grapes, pineapples, etc. Flavoring extracts and -essences are variously put up in vials and bottles; among them are -LEMON, VANILLA, ROSE, ALMOND, PEACH, CELERY, GINGER, CLOVES, NUTMEG, -STRAWBERRY, RASPBERRY, PINEAPPLE, NECTARINE, etc. - -ISINGLASS AND GELATINE are used to make jellies, and thicken soups and -gravies. Isinglass is made from the intestines of fish. Its advantages -over gelatine are lighter color, less flavor, and greater thickening -power. In cold water it softens, swells, becomes white and opaque. In -hot water it smells a little fishy. Gelatine is made from the bones of -animals; it also swells in cold water, but becomes glassy and -transparent, while in hot water it has somewhat the smell of glue. It is -often sold for isinglass. The test of both is in the fineness and -clearness of their jelly. CALVES’ FOOT JELLY is delicate, but less firm. -Gelatine is sold in sheets and shreds. - -HERBS for seasoning, as, SAGE, SUMMER SAVORY, SWEET MARJORAM, THYME, -etc., are sold in the leaf, and also powdered, in tins and paper -packets. - - - Spices and Condiments. - -Spices are generally understood to be more aromatic and fragrant and -less pungent than what are called condiments. Spices are usually added -to sweetened food, while condiments, as pepper and mustard, are better -suited to meats and food containing salt. - -It is impossible to supply genuine articles if the public are not -willing to pay for them, and it may be accepted as a general rule, that -the lower the price of ground spices and condiments, the more they are -adulterated. The materials chiefly used for this purpose are starch, -cracker dust and similar harmless substances, and the mixture usually -contains as much of the pure material as can reasonably be afforded at -the price it sells for. The purchaser may elect whether he will have -such articles, or those which are genuine at a higher cost. The grocer -does not create wants and demands; he merely supplies them. - -PEPPER.—There are two kinds, black and white. Both are from the seeds of -the _piper nigrum_, a plant which grows in the East and West Indies. -BLACK PEPPER is the seed picked before it is fully ripe, dried and -ground. WHITE PEPPER is made from the ripened seed deprived of its black -outer shell or pericarp. Pepper is an agreeable addition to many kinds -of food, and is said to promote the secretion of the gastric juice; it -is more used than any other spice. - -CAYENNE PEPPER is the powdered pod of one or more species of capsicum. -The sharp taste is due to a camphor like substance found more in the -pods than in the seeds. - -MUSTARD.—This is the flour of the black or white mustard seed. The black -seed contains most volatile oil, is more pungent, and differs from the -white in chemical composition. The two are blended in various -proportions. Wheat flour is often added, with a little turmeric to bring -up the color. Mustard seed contains over 30 per cent. of a fixed oil, -and a portion of this is often extracted. This practice is considered -beneficial rather than fraudulent. - -GINGER.—This is the root-stalk of a plant which grows in Jamaica and -other warm countries. The best comes with the skin scraped off. This is -ground. The odor of ginger is due to an essential oil; its pungency to a -peculiar resin. It is sometimes adulterated with starch, sago, rice, and -wheat flour, mustard hulls, cayenne pepper, etc. But, as with all the -other spices, there are pure brands. - -CLOVES are the dried flower buds of the clove tree. They come from the -East Indies, Africa, and South America, ranking in value in the order -named. The best contain as much as 16 per cent. of a volatile oil to -which their flavor is due. Ground cloves have sometimes a portion of -this oil pressed out, with pimento or allspice added, which latter is -much less costly. Cloves are best when large, plump, bright in tint, and -full of oil, which exudes on pressure with the finger nail. - -ALLSPICE OR PIMENTO is the little, round berry of an evergreen tree, -common in the West Indies. It contains about 4 per cent. of an aromatic -oil. Owing to its cheapness, it is less adulterated than other spices. - -CINNAMON is the true bark of a small evergreen tree of Ceylon. The best -is very thin, the outer and inner coats of the bark having been removed. - -CASSIA is the bark of another species of cinnamon tree; it is thicker, -corky, and not so red. It is cheap and not much adulterated. It is often -sold for cinnamon, but is less aromatic and valuable. CASSIA BUDS are -the unripe buds of the same tree. - -NUTMEGS AND MACE.—Nutmegs are the seeds of the _Myristica Fragrans_, a -tree which grows in the East Indies. Good nutmegs feel heavy in the -hand, and are not worm eaten. They contain about 8 per cent. of volatile -oil, and 25 per cent. of fixed oil, which exudes under indentation or -pressure with the finger nail. Most people buy whole nutmegs and the -ground article has only a limited sale. MACE is the arillus or coating -of the nutmeg, and is also sold whole or unground. - -CURRY POWDER.—This compound of spices, etc., is much used in India and -other hot countries, as an appetizer and stimulant to digestion. There -are several excellent brands of curry powder in market, both English and -American, made approximately after some one of the following five -receipts: - - Proportions. - Turmeric 6 4 6 3 2 - Black pepper 5 4 2 2 1/2 - Cayenne 1 1 0 3/4 6 - Ginger 0 2 3 0 1/2 - Fenugreek 3 2 0 1 1/2 - Cummin seed 3 2 2 4 0 - Coriander seed 0 6 8 12 6 - Cardamom seed 0 0 1/2 1/2 0 - Pimento 0 0 1/2 1/4 1/4 - Cinnamon 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 - Cloves 0 0 0 1/4 1 - Nutmeg 0 0 0 0 1/2 - - - Salt. - -COMMON SALT varies in purity and sometimes contains salts of lime, -magnesia, and potash. But as those are more soluble in water than common -salt, it is easy to remove them in the process of manufacture. Our -culinary salt comes from several sources; rock salt deposits or mines, -sea water, and salt springs. - -There are numerous brands of salt which are freed from all impurity, -ground to various degrees of fineness, and put up in barrels, sacks, -bags and packets of all sizes; also in stone jars. - -CELERY SALT is good common salt mingled with the finely ground seeds of -celery. - -Besides the finer qualities for table use, there are varieties specially -adapted for salting and pickling meats, fish, etc.; lump rock salt for -cattle, hay salt, etc. The bitter salts of lime, magnesia, etc., attract -moisture more than common salt, hence dryness is a sign of purity. - - - Vinegar. - -The sour principle is acetic acid, of which good vinegar contains about -four per cent. Vinegar may be obtained by fermentation from the juice of -any starchy or sweet fruit or vegetable, from beer, or even from -sweetened water, to which “mother” or other vinegar is added. Cider -vinegar is most used, as it retains the fruity flavor of the apple, but -good vinegar is also made from wine, malt, oranges, raspberries, etc. -There are many varieties in market, both domestic and foreign. Stringent -laws regulate the purity and strength of vinegar for domestic uses, in -New York and some other states. - - - Pickles. - -These are fruits and vegetables preserved in vinegar, after first -steeping them in brine. Certain articles require to be pickled in -scalding hot vinegar, others with cold; salt, pepper and spices are -added to suit the taste. Pickles were formerly extensively colored green -with copper, but the ghastly practice has gone out of date. Intelligent -people will prefer those which have the more natural and wholesome -yellowish, olive green tint. There are all sorts of pickles in market, -put up in glass or wood packages of various sizes, as follows: - -CUCUMBERS and GHERKINS, CHOW CHOW, CAULIFLOWER, ONIONS, MANGOES, -PICALILLI, WALNUTS, PEPPERS, HORSERADISH, MIXED PICKLES, and SWEET -PICKLES. Among the best of imported pickles are the reliable Cross and -Blackwell goods; some domestic brands are perhaps equally good. OLIVES -are in brine, usually in wide-mouthed glass jars. They come from Italy, -Spain, and France. The “Queen,” “Crescent,” etc., are favorite brands. -There are also French CAPERS, so important as an accompaniment for -boiled mutton, etc. - -SALAD OIL.—The best is the oil of the OLIVE, which, when pure, is of -pale, greenish yellow tint, with an agreeable odor and taste. Refined -COTTONSEED OIL has naturally a more reddish tint. It is extensively sold -as olive oil or mixed with it, although many grocers keep the genuine -olive oil. SALAD DRESSINGS are also in market, some of which are very -fine and delicate. - - - Sauces. - -These articles give zest to food and stimulate digestion. Their -composition is very varied and embraces many fruits and vegetables, as -the tomato, walnut, garlic, shallot; many herbs, as tarragon, chervill, -mint, thyme, marjoram; many condiments, as cayenne, black pepper, -mustard, and all the spices; many fish, as lobsters, oysters, clams, -shrimp, anchovies; the juices of meat, besides salt, sugar, molasses, -etc. - -PEPPER SAUCE is made from the little Jamaica peppers, the Mexican, Chili -pepper, or some other variety of red or green pepper. There are numerous -brands, and nearly all are good. The TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE is excellent. -TOMATO CATSUP OR KETCHUP is a very wholesome and agreeable addition to -the diet. Among the best and most popular varieties is the “SHREWSBURY” -TOMATO KETCHUP. Mushroom and Walnut Catsups are less used, but still -have many friends. - -Among the dainty and well known SAUCES, are the WORCESTERSHIRE, -LEICESTERSHIRE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE, SULTANA, PICCADILLY, CHUTNEE, SOHO, -HARVEY, NORTH OF ENGLAND, etc. There are also various American sauces, -some of which are imitations of the above or very similar in composition -and flavor. Some of the English sauces are put up in elegant and -artistic vases. - - - - - DOMESTIC FRUITS AND BERRIES. - - -The increasing excellence, abundance and cheapness of fruits and berries -is full of promise for the health and vigor of the American people. They -are wholesome, cooling and nutritious. - -APPLES.—This noble fruit is in market the year round; new Southern -apples are first marketed in April. APRICOTS are a fine small fruit -which ripens in July. CHERRIES reach us from the South in May. -NECTARINES come in August. PEACHES are at the height of their season in -August and September. Early in the latter month they should be secured -for preserving. PEARS.—The choicest are the Dutchess, Bartlett and -Virgalieu. CALIFORNIA PEARS are excellent and widely sold through the -country. PLUMS ripen in August, and are in season until October. QUINCE -is a highly flavored fruit, used only for preserves. GRAPES.—Besides our -own abundant and delicious Muscat, Concord, Isabella, Catawba, and other -varieties, three-quarters of a million barrels of the hardy and cooling -white Almeria grapes are annually imported at New York. They were -formerly a costly luxury, but are now abundant and cheap, and will keep -through the winter. - -STRAWBERRIES.—The season opens with shipments from Florida early in -March, and closes six months later with the product of the far North. -RASPBERRIES come in June and continue until August. BLACKBERRIES ripen -early in July, and are very healthful. CURRANTS ripen in July and -continue until September; they are white, red and black, and are -wholesome and cooling. GOOSEBERRIES may be had red, yellow, green and -white. They are much used unripe, for cooking purposes. CRANBERRIES -begin to reach market from Cape Cod, New Jersey, etc., about September -first. The largest and darkest are the best. They are healthful and an -almost indispensable adjunct to roast turkey, etc.; are also used for -sauces, tarts, and pies. - - - Tropical Fruits. - -The increased knowledge in regard to the excellence and healthfulness of -these fruits has, within a few years, greatly enlarged the demand for -them, and they are now sold at moderate prices in almost every city and -town in the land. - -ORANGES.—Those from Florida and California are richer and of finer -flavor, while the Mediterranean variety are thin skinned, juicy, hardy, -and will keep longer. That region sends us annually a million boxes of -oranges, and the annual product of Florida and California is two million -boxes. Havana oranges are not as good as they used to be, but twenty -thousand barrels come to New York yearly from Cuba. - -LEMONS.—A million and a half boxes of lemons are consumed yearly in this -country, most of which come from Sicily, but lemon culture is increasing -in Florida. Lemons vary much more in price than oranges, as a heated -term or unusual sickness increases the consumption. - -BANANAS AND OTHER FRUITS.—There are two varieties, the red from Cuba, -and the yellow from Jamaica and the Spanish Main. The latter are the -better. Bananas are in market all the year, but the season is from March -to August. PINEAPPLES are exquisitely flavored fruit, much used sliced -for the tea table. The season is from May to August. COCOANUTS are used -grated, for making pies and puddings; they are delicious, but rather -indigestible. DESSICATED COCOANUT is the meat of cocoanuts ground and -dried, and mixed with powdered sugar; sometimes, also, rice, flour, or -corn starch is added. It comes in packets, cans, etc. - - - - - FRESH VEGETABLES. - - -In the Spring and Summer months the appetite craves fresh vegetables; -and their free use, especially in those seasons, will be found excellent -for the general health of the family. Spinach, for instance, is said to -be beneficial in kidney complaints; Dandelion greens are good for -biliousness; Tomatoes act upon the liver; Celery upon the nerves; Onion -soup restores a debilitated stomach, etc., etc. In fact, it would be -easy thus to go through the whole vegetable list and find each one -possessing some special mission of healthfulness. - - - Where Early Vegetables Come From. - -The Bermudas send annually about $400,000 worth of potatoes, onions, -beets and tomatoes to New York, during the months of March, April and -May. Florida garden produce finds its way North very early in the -Spring, and later, in regular order, Georgia, South and North Carolina, -and Virginia, wheel into line with their numerous productions, until, -finally, our home gardeners have their season. During all this time our -vegetables on sale are improving in freshness as they are drawn from -sources nearer home, and prices are falling. - - - The Varieties. - -POTATOES.—The heavier ones are more mealy and nutritious than those -which are waxy and soft. There are many favorite varieties. Some are -early but less mealy, others prolific but lacking in flavor, etc.—hence -prices vary. SWEET POTATOES.—There are two varieties—the red and -yellow—with but little difference in price. CABBAGE.—A standard -vegetable the year round; the heaviest are the best. CAULIFLOWER, best -from April to December; the large, creamy white, solid heads are -preferred; dark or soft spots indicate staleness. ONIONS are very -nutritious; their powerful odor is due to a strong smelling, volatile, -sulphurized oil. There are the white or silver skinned, yellow and red. -Spanish Onions are milder, and much eaten raw. GARLIC, a pungent species -of the onion tribe, and very healthful; used for flavoring. LEEKS and -CHIVES are allies of the onion. Leeks have large leaves, a thick stalk -and small root; Chives, used as salads, have small, spine-like leaves. -CARROTS, TURNIPS, BEETS and PARSNIPS are standard vegetables to be had -throughout the year; frost improves the latter. - -ASPARAGUS.—A choice and health giving vegetable. Season begins in March, -and it grows fibrous in July. CELERY is improved by frost, and is in its -prime and cheapest during the winter months, after which it becomes -tougher and stringy. CUCUMBERS.—A pleasant, cooling vegetable, but -difficult of digestion, and containing little nourishment. TOMATOES are -excellent food for people with weak stomachs or liver difficulties; is a -vegetable that could ill be spared. Millions of bushels are canned every -year, and if properly put up are nearly as good as the fresh article. -PEAS.—The smaller varieties are best, should be purchased in the pods, -which should be cool, crisp and green. A black spot on the pea indicates -that it is too old to be at its best. BEANS, shelled and string.—The -former embrace the Lima sorts. The Neapolitan or snap is considered best -of the String beans. GREEN CORN comes from the South in May, and the -home supply lasts till October. Ears should be well filled and milky, -and not too old. Green sweet corn is the best. - -RHUBARB.—Much used for sauce and pies. The leaves are said to contain -oxalic acid, and must not be eaten. RADISH, said to be difficult of -digestion itself, but helps to digest other food. There are two -varieties, the small bulbous, or round, and the long. ARTICHOKE, a tuber -like the potato; is pickled, used as a salad and as a vegetable. -SQUASH.—The summer squash is in market from April to September. Winter -squash is more substantial but less delicate. OYSTER PLANT has a grassy -top, and a long, tapering, white root like a carrot; its flavor suggests -that of oysters. EGG PLANT, called GUINEA SQUASH at the South, should be -firm, hard, and rather under ripe, it also tastes somewhat like an -oyster; the large, purple, oval shaped, is the better variety. OKRA or -GUMBO.—The green seed pods are much esteemed for soups and stews, -especially in the South, and are growing in favor at the North. The long -green variety is considered best. LETTUCE, SPINACH, BRUSSELS SPROUTS, -KALE, BEET-TOPS, DANDELION LEAVES, ETC., are used as salads and for -greens. - -MELONS.—MUSK-MELON, the stronger the musk odor, the finer it is; but if -it appears quite ripe all over, it is over ripe and decomposing. If it -has no odor, it is only fit for cattle. WATER-MELON, if pressed near its -center, should yield a little, and the indentation disappear when the -finger is removed. If no indent can be made, the melon is too green, if -the depression remains, the melon is over ripe. - -BEANS, PEAS, and LENTILS.—These leguminous seeds are very nutritious and -palatable, and rank high among strength-giving foods. They contain -vegetable casein in place of gluten, and hence are not suitable for -making bread; all these articles are more digestible if eaten with fat, -and the American staple dish of Pork and Beans is really the marriage of -two articles which agree very well with each other. Dried PEAS, split, -or ground into meal, are much used for soups. LENTILS, which are round -seeds like flattened peas, are excellent used as a vegetable, but are -comparatively little known. The most popular varieties of the white -beans are the Marrow, Kidney and Pea beans. There are also _Frijoles_ or -black beans, Lima beans, etc. - - - DRIED FRUITS. - -The chief consideration with articles in this line is, that they should -be as fresh as possible, and free from vermin and traces of vermin. -Worms in dried fruits are never in sight, even though they may swarm -below the surface. DRIED APPLES should be light colored, plump and acid. -Evaporated fruit (by the Alden process, etc.) is preferred to sun-dried. -It is often bleached in the fumes of sulphurous acid, which has a -tendency to keep the fruit free from worms, and does not injure the -flavor. DRIED PEACHES should be pealed, clear and dark. DRIED PLUMS -should be pitted, clear and bright. DRIED BERRIES—the chief danger is -from worms. - - - Raisins. - -Raisins are dried grapes. The finest are the Dehesa “Layers;” next are -the CLUSTER, or BUNCH raisins, and the “LOOSE,” which are without stems. -They are better in proportion to the number of crowns in the brand, as -1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Crowns. The small seedless raisins are called “SULTANA,” -and come from Smyrna. VALENCIAS are the common cooking raisins. -CALIFORNIA RAISINS (Muscatel) are excellent, very fast growing in -popular favor, and are the coming summer raisin. The best raisins are of -the “Last crop.” Age tends to crystallize the grape sugar in raisins, -and they are also liable to the attacks of vermin. - -DRIED CURRANTS are the small dried grapes of the Ionian Islands. The -“_Vostizza_” come in cases, and are considered better in proportion as -they are larger in size. There are a number of varieties of currants. -They should be bright and clean. - -FIGS are said to be easier of digestion than any other dried sweet -fruit, and are slightly laxative. “_Eleme_,” signifies superior, or hand -picked. Generally the last crop “Layers” (as distinguished from those in -kegs) are the best; they should be fresh, moist, thin skinned, -semi-transparent, and free from vermin. There are many varieties, and -they are put up in all sorts of packages. - -PRUNES are dried plums, or “French plums,” as they are sometimes called. -They are extensively raised in the valley of the Loire, in France; also -in Germany, and about Bosnia, in Turkey. California prunes are also -excellent, and very popular wherever they are known. The largest and -freshest prunes are the best. They come in bottles, tins, bags, boxes -and casks. - -DATES.—This “Bread of the Desert” is the sun-dried fruit of the date -palm, and is both nourishing and palatable. Dates were formerly packed -in frails, but now come usually in boxes. Among the best varieties of -Persian and Egyptian dates are the “Hallowee” and the “_Sair_;” some are -large, yellow, moist, and little wrinkled, others are smaller, dark in -color, with small pits; some are very sweet and insipid, and others -almost aromatic in flavor. - -TAMARINDS are the pods of a tree, growing in the East and West Indies, -gathered when ripe, and preserved in sugar or molasses. They are acid, -pleasant, healthful, and cooling. They come in bottles, stone jars and -kegs. - - - NUTS. - -ALMONDS are of two kinds, the sweet and bitter; the latter are only used -for making extracts. Among the edible varieties are the Tarragona, -Valencia, “Jordan,” a corruption of _Jardin_ (garden), etc. There are -hard, soft, and “paper shell” almonds, and almond meats freed from their -shells. FILBERTS are cultivated hazel nuts and come mainly from Sicily. -PECANS come from Texas. WALNUTS from Italy, France, and Chili. BRAZIL -NUTS grow along the Amazon in clusters on high trees. They are oily and -rich. PEANUTS come from Virginia, and CHESTNUTS from Italy and our own -Northern States. - - - - - TOBACCO. - - -The active principle of tobacco is the alkaloid nicotine, but it cannot -be said that the effects of tobacco are solely due to this substance, -for some varieties, as the Syrian, etc., contains little or no nicotine, -yet are considered strong. The quantity of nicotine varies much in -tobacco, or from one-half of one per cent. to eight per cent. As a rule, -the finer the quality and flavor, the less nicotine the tobacco -contains. - -There are many varieties of tobacco, as those of Virginia, Kentucky, -Maryland, etc., which are used mainly for chewing, while the Cuban, -Turkish, Connecticut, Sumatra, etc., are considered better for cigars. -All these tobaccos may vary again in species, as, for instance, there -are the Orinoco, Cienfuegos, White Stem, One Sucker, Isabella, White -Barley, Fiji Orinoco, Cubani, and many others. Havana or Cuban tobacco -has long held the palm over all the world for making the most -exquisitely flavored cigars. The aromatic principles on which its value -depends can only be developed under a warm, moist climate. - - - Chewing Tobacco - -Is used both in the “PLUG” form and as “FINE CUT,” and in some -localities preference is given to the one, while little of the other is -sold. The New England and some of the Western States take their chewing -tobacco largely in plugs, while the Middle States take more kindly to -the fine cut. Detroit has a national reputation for the manufacture of -fine cut tobaccos, which are extensively sold in tin foil and paper -packages, and in bulk, in pails, etc. There are many hundreds of brands -of chewing tobacco, both plug and fine cut. Some are the natural leaf, -while others are sweetened; so that the most diversified tastes may be -satisfied. - - - Smoking Tobacco. - -North Carolina, Virginia, and Kentucky are foremost among the States in -the manufacture of the smoking tobaccos, which are almost infinite in -variety and sold in all sorts of packages. Among them are the “Long” and -“Short cut,” “Navy Clippings,” “Granulated,” “Nigger Head,” “Sweet Spun -Roll,” “Golden Cavendish,” “Durham,” “Fruits and Flowers,” “Seal of -North Carolina,” “Seal of Virginia,” and many others, besides imported -varieties, as Persian, Latakia, Havana, etc. In addition to smoking -tobaccos, many grocers keep a full assortment of PIPES, from the common -clay up, through all kinds of briar and applewood pipes to the genuine -meerschaum goods of every style and quality. - - - Cigars. - -The value of a cigar depends not only on the quality of the leaf, but -largely also on the mode of manufacture. If rolled too hard or too -loosely, it will burn badly. - - - Why a Cigar Should Burn Well. - -The best burning leaves must be used for wraps; if not, the air has no -access to the inside burning parts, and the empyreumatical substances -are volatilized without being decomposed. Such cigars make much smoke -and smell disagreeably. If the cigar burns well, more of the nicotine is -consumed and decomposed. Cigars, therefore, which contain little -nicotine and burn poorly, are more narcotic in their effects than well -burning cigars which contain a greater quantity of nicotine. Hence, the -leaves of the Connecticut or “Seed leaf” tobacco, which burn freely and -well, are much used for wrappers for cigars filled with Havana tobacco. -Within recent years, however, the handsome leaved Sumatra tobacco is -quite largely used for wrappers upon medium priced cigars, as it burns -better than Cuban tobacco. - - - Quality of Cigars. - -The real excellence of a very high-priced cigar is not in proportion to -its cost, which depends largely on its size and the fancy of the buyer. -For instance, a 50-cent cigar will burn no better nor be much, if any -more fragrant than a 25-cent cigar. It may be larger, and the large -Havana leaves, free from veins and suitable for use as wrappers for -fine, large cigars are so scarce and high, as to enhance their cost out -of all proportion to that of an equally well flavored, though smaller -cigar. In fact, 10 or 15 cents should procure as good a medium sized -cigar as average people care to smoke. The dude’s dollar cigar is not -much, if any better, except as fancy makes it so. - -Many of the 5-cent cigars sold so extensively, contain a large -proportion of Havana tobacco, and make a fairly fragrant and pleasant -smoke. It is said that there are upwards of 100,000 open and proprietary -brands of cigars on the market. - -CIGARETTES.—The sale of these little paper tubes filled with tobacco, -has grown enormously within a few years and is still increasing. It is -whispered that the ladies even, sometimes seek to find in them a whiff -of the solace and comfort their brothers and husbands find in the pipe -or cigar. There are many favorite brands on the market. - -SNUFF.—This article which is made from the stems and refuse of the -tobacco, or largely so, is comparatively little used in this country; -but in some sections, and especially in the South it is sold to a -considerable extent. It comes in bulk and in jars, bottles, bladders, -and packets. Among the varieties are “Carolina Sweet” and plain Scotch -Snuff, Maccaboy and coarse French Rappee, scented or plain. - - - - - SOAP. - - -Soap is made by boiling down oils or fats in a water solution of caustic -soda or potash. Through the acid properties of the fats, the oleine, -stearine, margarine, etc., which they contain, combine with the alkali -to produce the saponified compound. - -Hard soap is made with soda; soft soap with potash. The more oleine in -the fat, the softer the soap; the more stearine the harder. Rosin is -also largely used, sometimes to the extent of one-third the weight of -the soap. It increases its hardness, makes it dissolve easier in water -and forms a more copious lather. - - - The Most Economical Soap. - -Soap may be two-thirds water and still remain solid. Even dry, hard soap -contains 20 or 25 per cent. of moisture. An excess of water causes soap -to waste or dissolve too freely in use; hence, as soap is perpetually -losing water by evaporation, the most economical to buy is that with -some age and moderately dry, yet not so much dried that it will not -dissolve readily and make a good lather or suds. - - - Effects of Strong Soap on Fabrics. - -Soap must not be strong enough to injure fabrics or discharge colors, -yet sufficiently powerful to render grease and dirt soluble, so that it -may be washed away in water. Rosin soap hardens the fibers of wool, and -alkalies, if used to excess, shrink woolen fabrics. Hard water, or that -containing lime or magnesia, more or less decomposes soap, and it floats -on the surface as a greasy scum. But if an oily film rises to the top of -soft water, it shows that the fat in the soap is not all saponified. -Soft water is better than hard for fabrics. - - - What Soaps Are Made Of. - -COMMON YELLOW BAR SOAP contains soda with fat and rosin. WHITE SOAP -consists of tallow and soda. CASTILE SOAP is made of olive oil and soda. -COMMON FANCY SOAPS are mainly ordinary soap colored and scented. Real -BROWN WINDSOR SOAP is made of goat tallow, olive oil and soda. -TRANSPARENT SOAPS are those which have been dissolved in alcohol. FINE -TOILET SOAPS are made with as little alkali as possible, of almond, palm -or olive oil, suet, lard, etc., colored and perfumed. - -SHAVING SOAPS and CREAMS are made either with soda or potash, of fine -tallow or cocoanut oil, which has the property of making a strong -lather. MOTTLED SOAPS owe their variegations of color to the use of iron -oxides. It is said that these cannot be effectively applied if the soap -contains an excess of water, and that more skill is required to make -good blue mottled soap than any other. The more any soap is worked over, -or remelted, cooled, etc., the better it becomes. - - - A Wide Range of Choice. - -There is a great variety of soaps upon the market, and language has been -ransacked to find appropriate names for them. Among them are “FAMILY,” -“LAUNDRY,” “IVORY,” “BEST SOAP,” “ELECTRIC,” “OZONE,” “BORAX,” “SAND -SOAP,” “SILVER SOAP,” “SAPOLIO,” etc., and many scouring and detergent -articles, as “PEARLINE,” “SOAPINE,” “SCOURENE,” “WASHING COMPOUND,” -“WASHING CRYSTAL,” etc. - -In Toilet Soaps there is an equally wide range of choice, embracing -every color and variegation of color, and every perfume that is -agreeable to the smell. Soaps are also charged with disinfecting -substances, as carbolic acid, etc., and variously medicated with -sulphur, camphor, glycerine, and other materials for softening and -healing the skin. - - - STARCH. - -Laundry starch is mostly made from corn. The grain is crushed and -fermented to a degree, when the starch is washed out and allowed to -settle in large vats. The best qualities are washed and settled again -and again; the number of washings grading the strength, purity and cost. -Potato starch is more costly than corn starch, and, as it gives a softer -finish to fabrics, is chiefly used by manufacturers. Corn starch for -culinary purposes is thoroughly washed, purified and deodorized. Laundry -starch should never be eaten. - -The best laundry starch is in large, hard, flinty crystals; such -indicate a stronger starch, containing less moisture than that with -small or soft crystals. Laundry starch comes in bulk or boxes, and in -paper packages. There are many fancy proprietary brands of starch, as -“IVORY,” “IVORINE,” “GLOSS,” “SATIN GLOSS,” “SILVER GLOSS,” “GLOSS -POLISH,” “ELASTIC,” etc. Some of them are powdered, and contain borax, -wax, or gum, etc., and are scented with winter-green, etc. Such come -higher than the better grades of laundry starch in crystals, but it is a -question if they are proportionately superior for family use. STARCH -POLISHES are preparations of spermaceti, wax, or paraffine. - - - Blueing (Laundry). - -This article may be had in balls, powders, or in a liquid form. There -are a goodly number of proprietary brands, some of which give a tint -which appears somewhat greenish when placed by the side of a pure and -delicate blue. The coloring principle is usually indigo, Prussian blue, -or the favorite ultramarine. The most satisfactory laundry blueing is -that which is really and intensely blue in tint, and which is most -completely soluble in water, so that it will be well distributed and not -make the clothes look streaked. - - - Candles. - -In some sections, candles form an important article of trade. They are -now made in a great variety of exquisite tints by the use of analine -colors of various sizes and weights, and with patent self-fitting ends. -The more costly kinds are made of spermaceti, wax, stearine, paraffine, -etc., down to the pressed, adamantine, and common tallow candles. Some -carry embossed and handsome decalcomania decorations and are either -white, blue, green, pink, yellow, red, etc., or assorted. There are -“BOUDOIR,” “PIANO,” “CLEOPATRA,” “CABLE,” and “FLAG” candles, wax “NIGHT -LIGHTS,” “CHRISTMAS TREE CANDLES,” and wax “GAS LIGHTERS,” warranted not -to drip. - -BRUSHES.—No domestic article is in more common use than the brush in its -various forms. The best bristles come from the wild hog of Russia and -Poland. The whitest and finest are used for paint, tooth, hat, hair, and -clothes brushes. Some brushes are made with one tuft only, like the -paint brush, others with many. The best are “Wire drawn;” that is, the -tufts are bent double to form loops through which wires are passed, to -draw and hold them firmly into the holes of the base. Others have the -tufts wedged or glued in. Brushes are made with long and short handles, -and of every conceivable form and quality, from “Sink scrubs” upward. - -BROOMS.—The finer the corn the better the broom. A natural green color -indicates toughness and flexibility, and such corn is better than that -which is of a sickly yellow or lemon color. But the latter is often -given the desired green tint by artificial colorings. Plain or unpainted -handles are best, good brooms weigh 25 to 30 pounds to the dozen, but -extra large and heavy ones are made weighing 40 to 50 pounds. - -WASHBOARDS.—There are fifty or more varieties of these “Monday Morning -Pianos.” Metal scrubbers are preferred to wood, which is liable to -splinter, wound the fingers, and tear the clothes. And a plain crimp is -better for fabrics than a rougher crimp, although the latter may extract -the dirt quicker. A favorite variety have adjustable chest protectors. -CLOTHES PINS are of two kinds, the old fashioned and the spring clasp. -The latter are little used. - -MOPS.—There are two kinds in the stores; one of twisted twine, which is -generally thought to be most durable, the other of cotton and less -expensive. - -STOVE POLISH.—This is chiefly plumbago or black lead. Among the favorite -brands are “DIXON,” “RISING SUN,” “A. B. C.,” etc. There is also a -liquid preparation or “Enamel,” said to give a good polish without dust -or smell, and with little labor. - -BLACKING.—The best is that which will, without injury to the leather, -most easily and quickly give a handsome and durable polish. Besides the -excellent domestic varieties, there are the French Marcerou, and -Jacquot’s, in tin boxes, which are reliable and but little more -expensive, and the old time Day & Martin’s blacking in stone jugs. For -ladies’ use there are many domestic and imported SHOE DRESSINGS in -liquid form, which require no rubbing. - -MATCHES.—Common sulphur matches are made both square and round, and come -packed in various kinds of boxes and papers. PARLOR MATCHES, of -American, Swedish, and other foreign manufacture, are made without -sulphur; and chloride of potash, antimony, etc., are often used instead -of phosphorus. The splints are sometimes soaked in oil or paraffine to -make them burn freely. SAFETY MATCHES have the phosphorus on sand paper -and the other materials on the ends of the splints, and neither can be -ignited except by friction with the other. There are many kinds of WAX -TAPERS, “FLAMING LIGHTS,” etc. - -SEEDS.—The raising of seeds has become a large industry. Leading -producers make careful tests of all their seeds, and even offer valuable -prizes for the best vegetables and flowers grown from them. Some grocers -lay in every season a fresh and full supply of all the seeds used in the -garden or field, and they are almost always reliable. - -BIRDSEED, FOOD, ETC.—Canary seed comes both in bulk and pound packages, -either alone or mixed with millet, German rape seed, etc.; many packages -contain a piece of cuttle fish bone. There are BIRD GRAVEL, BIRD PEPPER, -MOCKING BIRD FOOD in bottles, etc. - -INSECT POWDER.—There are a number of these vegetable preparations which -are effective, if genuine and unadulterated, as the PERSIAN, BUHACH (or -Californian), DALMATIAN, etc. - -DISINFECTANTS.—Chloride of Lime in various sized packages of tin and -paper, and various liquid preparations in bottles and kegs, are put up -for domestic use. - -PAILS.—Ordinary water pails have either 2 or 3 hoops. Those not painted -on the inside are preferred. Wood pulp pails give good satisfaction, and -a new pail with sunken hoops is just coming into market. - - - Grocers’ Sundries. - -Among other articles sometimes kept by the grocer, may be mentioned: -Irish Moss, Anatto and other butter colorings, Licorice, Chewing Gum, -Fruit Juices, Hops, Rennet, Ink, Paper and Pens, Pencils, Slates, -Mucilage, Playing Cards, Beeswax, Cement, Concentrated Potash, Lye, -Lime, Chalk, Oils, Kerosene, Dyes, Paints dry and mixed; Rosin, Tar, -Turpentine, White Lead, Varnishes, Indigo, Glue, Putty, Powder, Shot, -Caps, Wads, Axle Grease, Curry Combs, Condition Powders, Can Openers, -Cordage, Coffee Mills, Bath Brick, Polishing Powder, Wick, Baskets, -Boxes in Nests, Tubs, Dippers, Measures, Lemon Squeezers, Mouse Traps, -Sieves, Feather Dusters, Rolling Pins, Ax Handles, Tacks, Crockery, -Glass and Stone Ware, Borax, Bay Rum, Ammonia, Sponges, Camphor, Sal -Soda, Perfumes, Plasters, Fly Killer Paper, Witch Hazel, and a great -variety of standard drugs and proprietary medicines. - - - - - WINES AND LIQUORS. - - -While there are some grocers who, for various reasons do not handle -these products, there are also many who keep for the family use of their -customers a full line of choice wines, malt beverages, and distilled -liquors. This work would therefore be incomplete without reference to -these articles, and it is believed that the few facts given below -concerning them will be found interesting and instructive. - - - WINES. - -Pure wine is merely grape juice fermented. When the sugar of the grape -is wholly or nearly converted by fermentation into natural vinous -spirits or alcohol, the result is a STILL or DRY WINE. If the sugar is -very abundant, as in overripe grapes, and a considerable portion of it -remains unfermented, a SWEET WINE like Tokay or Malmsey is produced. -When fermentation has proceeded to a certain stage and the liquid is -bottled, so that it continues to ferment and produce carbonic acid gas, -the result is an effervescent wine, as SPARKLING CHAMPAGNE. If, during -fermentation, the process be arrested by the addition of alcohol, -certain vegetable substances are retained in the liquid, and such wines -as PORT and SHERRY are the product. - - - Composition of Wines. - -Wines, as well as all varieties of malt and spirituous liquors, owe -their intoxicating qualities to alcohol. But the medical and dietetic -qualities of wine are not solely due to it; a mixture of water and -alcohol, or whiskey of equal strength, has a very different effect on -the animal economy. Pure wines contain also natural acids, sugar, -ethers, albumen, phosphates, etc. Their value is, however, mainly -determined by their “Bouquet” or flavor, produced by substances natural -to the grapes, heightened and rendered more delicate by fermentation. - - - Alcohol and Acids in Wine. - -The quantity of alcohol in natural wine from grapes, varies between 5 -and 12 per cent.; the quantity of free acid from 3 to 7 per cent. If -more of the latter be present, the wine tastes excessively sour, and is -less easily digested; but some acid in wine is essential, and -contributes much to its flavor and virtues. Besides the natural acids -which exist in the juice of the grape, cheap and inferior wines often -contain, also, the hurtful acids of spoiling, showing the approach to -vinegar. - - - WINES OF THE WORLD. - - - France. - -Even a bird’s-eye glance at the wines of the world, might easily fill a -volume. There are the superb French wines of Burgundy and Champagne, -which ancient Provinces are now almost one splendid, continuous -vineyard; and the Clarets, Sauternes, etc. of Bordeaux and Languedoc. -Medoc and Haut Medoc are known to wine lovers everywhere, for here are -the famous vineyards of the Chateau Lafitte, owned by Baron Rothschild; -the Chateaux Margaux, Latour, and many others. - - - The Wines of Germany. - -The principal wine districts of Germany are the valleys of the Rhine and -Moselle and their tributaries, whence come the well known Hock and the -red and white wines, which, though sometimes rather thin and deficient -in flavor, are never colored, plastered, boiled, or have spirits added -to them, and are therefore natural and wholesome. Here also is the -renowned Johannisberg Castle vineyard, owned by the family of Prince -Meternich. Every bottle of this wine bears his family arms, and it is -the beverage of Emperors and Kings. By reason of its exquisite “Bouquet” -it is pronounced “The finest and costliest drink on earth.” - - - Wines of Hungary, Italy, Spain, etc. - -Hungary sends forth her “Imperial” opal-tinted Tokay wines, made of -overripe grapes, from which the juices are never squeezed but allowed to -drop; other Hungarian wines are as dry as those of France, as mellow as -those of Germany, and more fragrant than the choicest of Spain. Italy, -Spain and Portugal produce wines of much repute, but neither of the -latter two countries make sparkling wines; they supply Sherry and Port -which generally have spirits added to them. - - - American Wines. - -The wines of California and other sections of the United States are -rapidly rising in popular estimation, and the time is probably not far -distant when they will rival those of any part of the world. The -consumption of domestic vintages increases with the constant improvement -in their quality, which follows the slowly acquired knowledge, as to the -best methods of turning the luscious juices of our own abundant grapes -into wine. - - - Champagne. - -The French make four varieties of champagne, viz.: NON-MOUSSEUX, -CREMANT, MOUSSEUX, and GRAND-MOUSSEUX. The first is fully fermented -wine, fined, drawn into bottles, and allowed to rest a long time. -CREMANT is moderately sparkling. MOUSSEUX throws out its cork with an -audible report and begins gently to overflow. GRAND-MOUSSEUX pops out -the cork with a loud noise and overflows with much foam, as it has the -pressure of five atmospheres. A sound, rather dry champagne is said to -be one of the best of remedies for impaired digestion. - - - Good and Poor Champagne. - -Good champagne throws up for a long time after being opened a continuous -stream of small, sparkling bubbles of gas: - - “Each sunset ray, that mixed by chance - With the wine’s diamond, showed - How sunbeams may be taught to dance.” - -Even after hours of exposure, when it has lost all its excess of -carbonic acid, good champagne still retains the characteristic flavor of -true wine, while an inferior sparkling wine becomes, after exposure, -almost as insipid as a mixture of sugar and water. The best are made -from the first pressings of the grape. Those made from a third, fourth -or fifth pressing require the addition of sugar and are cloying and far -inferior in flavor. Imitation champagnes are made by sweetening any -ordinary still wines or cider and charging them with carbonic acid gas. - - - MALT LIQUORS. - -Malt liquors, properly so called, should be made only of malted barley, -hops, yeast and water, but other materials are also used. PORTER is a -beer of a high percentage of alcohol and made from malt dried at a high -temperature, which gives it its dark color. ALE is pale beer with -considerable alcohol and made of pale malt, with more hop extract than -porter. - -As every per cent. of sugar in the malt yields by fermentation about -half a per cent. of alcohol, it is evident that ale, porter, and lager -beer are stronger or weaker, as more or less malt is used in making -them. - - - ALCOHOL IN BEERS. - -BEERS are stimulating from their alcohol and refreshing from their -carbonic acid, besides being tonic and somewhat nutritive. The oil of -the hops gives them aroma and the lupulin they contain soothes the -nerves. Their taste is vinous, sweetish, and bitter at the same time. -The quantity of alcohol in malt liquors was given by Prof. Englehardt, -as the result of analyses made for the N. Y. State Board of Health, in -1885, as follows. - - Per cent - of - alcohol - by - weight. - - Lager, average 192 samples 3.754 - - Ale “ 199 samples 4.622 - - Porter ” 70 samples 4.462 - - Weiss Beer “ 28 samples 2.356 - - - Beer Adulterations. - -It has been popularly supposed that beer is much adulterated. But the -result of many analyses made by Mr. C. A. Crampton, for the Department -of Agriculture at Washington, last year, show him “That beer is as free -from adulteration as most other articles of consumption, and more so -than some.” The analyst found that, practically, no foreign bitters -other than hops were used; but he also found that nearly one quarter of -the samples analyzed contained, as a preservative, the unwholesome -salicylic acid. This powerful drug is also largely used in the -manufacture of cheap wines, etc., and the practice should be rigidly -prohibited. - -GINGER ALE is made by fermenting sweetened water, to which extract of -ginger has been added, to such a degree as to generate carbonic acid gas -and become effervescent. It is a healthful and agreeable beverage, -containing some alcohol and being slightly stimulant. - -GOOD CIDER contains 3 to 5 per cent. of alcohol. It is made from the -fermented juice of apples. Many grown people acquired their fondness for -cider on the “Old Farm” in childhood. It is sold by grocers in bulk, and -is also bottled extensively and sold as “Champagne cider,” and quite -often as champagne. - - - DISTILLED LIQUORS. - -The disagreeable taste of freshly distilled ardent spirits is due to the -presence of fusil oil and other empyreumatic substances, which time -alone can transform into harmless ethers which smell and taste -agreeably, and produce an exhilaration over and above that of the -alcohol which holds them in solution. Spirits can be distilled from any -vegetable matter which will yield alcohol, yet many substances yield -only a rasping, nauseous or flavorless liquor, which age does not -improve. To some of these products, artificial flavors and color are -given and the imitation articles are thus placed on the market. But true -whiskey, brandy, etc., have a specific and original flavor of their own, -and contain vegetable oils and acids. - - - Alcohol in Liquors. - -The following table shows the proportion of alcohol (by volume) in the -various liquors. - - Volume of - Alcohol, - per - cent. - - Cognac Brandy 55 to 70 - - Arrack, made from 60 to 61 - Rice - - Whiskey, American 60 - - “ Scotch 50 to 51 - - ” Irish 50 - - Rum 49-7 - - Gin 47-8 - -BRANDY.—This is made from wine; that from white grapes is preferred and -it requires about seven bottles of wine to make one of brandy. Even the -best Cognac is burning and rough until kept for two or three years, and -it improves with increased age, until, when thirty or forty years old, -it develops a flavor somewhat similar to that of vanilla. - -WHISKEY is a spirit distilled either from fermented malt, rye, barley, -oats, wheat or corn. The very best and sweetest grain is only used for -making good whiskey. American whiskey is more easily obtained pure than -perhaps any spirituous liquor and is therefore more reliable in this -country. The name whiskey is a corruption of the Erse and Irish word -_Usquebaugh_, “Water of Life,” the French _Eau de Vie_. - -RUM is made from distilled molasses and skimmings from the boiling -sugar. - -GIN is distilled from unmalted grain, the product being rectified and -flavored with juniper berries. - - - Favorite Brands. - -CHAMPAGNES come in quarts and pints, _Sec_ or “Dry,” “Extra Dry,” etc. -Among favorite Brands are those of Heidsieck, Mumm, Roederer, Cliquot, -Bouché, Morizet, Pommery, Delbeck, etc.; the AMERICAN Champagnes of -California, Urbanna, Pleasant Valley, etc., besides various imitation -sparkling wines. Among favorite CLARETS are St. Julien, Medoc, St. -Emillion, St. Estephe, Floirac, Pontet Canet, Chateaux Margaux, Lafitte, -La Rose, etc.; also the SAUTERNES and WHITE WINES of Graves; Barsac, -Chateaux, Yquem, Latour, etc. There are the Johannisberger, Hockheimer, -Rüdesheimer, Marcobrunner of the RHINE; the ITALIEN Capri, Falerno and -Chianti; Port, Sherry and Madeira of various brands; and Claret, Port, -Sherry, Muscatel, Angelica, Tokay, and other vintages of AMERICAN MAKE. - -CORDIALS include Anisette, Benedictine, Curaçao, Chartreuse, Maraschino, -Kirschwasser, Kummel, Chocolate, Ginger, Raspberry, Rock and Rye, and -Absynthe. There are Ales, Porter, Stout, Lager Beer, Peach and Apple -cider, Orgeat, Soda and Sarsaparilla. Favorite Brandies are those of -Otard, Hennessy, Martelle, Robin, Seignette, Dupin, and good California -Brandy; also Blackberry, Cherry, Ginger, Peach and Cider Brandies. -Besides scores of fine AMERICAN WHISKEYS, there are the SCOTCH Thistle -and IRISH Cruiskeen Lawn; Old Tom, London, Holland and Geneva GINS; St. -Croix, Jamaica and N. E. RUMS. Many Grocers keep also a supply of -NATURAL and ARTIFICIAL MINERAL WATERS, as the Congress, Hathorn, etc., -of Saratoga; Carlsbad, Seltzer, Clysmic, Vichy, Apollonaris, Williams -Quelle, Lithia, Hunyadi; and a variety of Bitter Waters. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - - Printed Corrected Page - Tarter Tartar 3 Cream of Tartar - Marmelades Marmalades 3 Marmalades - molases molasses 5 molasses and whale oil. - SELF-RAISING SELF-RAISING, 14 wheat granulated, SELF-RAISING, - VERMICILLI VERMICELLI 17 VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI. - disagreeble disagreeable 18 is very disagreeable, - peeple people 27 but some people seem - FIRSTS’ FIRSTS” 30 FIRSTS” must be a grade - semi transparent semi-transparent 33 and is semi-transparent before - exhilerating exhilarating 36 its exhilarating properties - piminto pimento 41 oil pressed out, with pimento - unground unground. 41 sold whole or unground. - potatoe potato 47 tuber like the potato; - crystalize crystallize 49 crystallize the grape sugar - Seives Sieves 58 Sieves, Feather Dusters, - Lauguedoc Languedoc 60 of Bordeaux and Languedoc. - Margeaux Margaux 60 Margaux, Latour, and many - unwholsome unwholesome 62 unwholesome salicylic acid. - heathful healthful 63 It is a healthful and - Cogñac Cognac 63 Cognac Brandy - Cogñac Cognac 64 Cognac is burning and rough - Heidseick Heidsieck 64 are those of Heidsieck, Mumm - Rudescheimer Rüdesheimer 64 Rüdesheimer, Marcobrunner of the - Curaçoa Curaçao 64 Benedictine, Curaçao, Chartreuse - Kirchwasser Kirshwasser 64 Maraschino, Kirschwasser, Kummel - Chocolat Chocolate 64 Chocolate, Ginger, Raspberry, - ariety variety 64 variety of Bitter Waters. - -On page 59, under Grocers’ Sundries, two newlines and a blank line were -removed before “Borax”. - -Some irregular spellings have been retained. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Grocers' Goods, by Frederick Bartlett Goddard - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROCERS' GOODS *** - -***** This file should be named 50759-0.txt or 50759-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/7/5/50759/ - -Produced by WebRover, Lisa Anne Hatfield, Chris Curnow and -the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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