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diff --git a/50700-h/50700-h.htm b/50700-h/50700-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..33906d0 --- /dev/null +++ b/50700-h/50700-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,27357 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <title> + The Story Teller of the Desert--Backsheesh!, by Thomas W. Knox + </title> + <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-align: justify; font-size: 80%; font-style: italic;} + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + .xx-small {font-size: 60%;} + .x-small {font-size: 75%;} + .small {font-size: 85%;} + .large {font-size: 115%;} + .x-large {font-size: 130%;} + .indent5 { margin-left: 5%;} + .indent10 { margin-left: 10%;} + .indent15 { margin-left: 15%;} + .indent20 { margin-left: 20%;} + .indent30 { margin-left: 30%;} + .indent40 { margin-left: 40%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; right: 1%; font-size: 0.6em; + font-variant: normal; font-style: normal; + text-align: right; background-color: #FFFACD; + border: 1px solid; padding: 0.3em;text-indent: 0em;} + .side { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 15%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + .head { float: left; font-size: 90%; width: 98%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0} + span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 0.8 } + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 50700 ***</div> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + THE STORY TELLER OF THE DESERT<br /><br /> “BACKSHEESH!” + </h1> + <h3> + or, Life and Adventures in the Orient + </h3> + <h2> + By Thomas W. Knox + </h2> + <h5> + With Descriptive And Humorous Sketches Of Sights And Scenes Over The + Atlantic, Down The Danube, Through The Crimea J In Turkey, Greece, + Asia-Minor, Syria, Palestine, And Egypt; Up The Nile, In Nubia, And + Equatorial Africa, Etc., Etc. + </h5> + <h5> + Embellished with nearly Two Hundred and Fifty Illustrations, including + Forty-Eight full page Engravings, principally executed in London, Paris, + and New York, from Photographs and original Sketches. + </h5> + <h4> + With fine Steel-Plate Portrait of the Author. + </h4> + <h5> + Hartford, Conn; A. D. Worthington & Co., Publishers + </h5> + <h3> + 1885 + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /><a name="linkimage-0001" id="linkimage-0001"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0008.jpg" alt="0008 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0008.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /><a name="linkimage-0002" id="linkimage-0002"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0009.jpg" alt="0009 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0009.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /><a name="linkimage-0003" id="linkimage-0003"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0011.jpg" alt="0011 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0011.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> AUTHOR’S PREFACE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_ILL"> ILLUSTRATIONS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I—STEAMER-LIFE ON THE ATLANTIC. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II—SCENES IN VIENNA—DOWN THE + DANUBE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III—LIFE AMONG THE MAGYARS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV—NEARING THE ORIENT—“BACKSHEESH!” + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V—THROUGH THE CRIMEA—IN AND + AROUND SEVASTOPOL. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI—ACROSS THE BLACK SEA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII—CONSTANTINOPLE—THE CITY + OF DOGS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII—TURKISH CURIOSITY SHOPS—SIGHTS + AND SCENES IN THE BAZAARS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX—FASTING AND FEASTING—THE + SULTAN AND HIS COURT. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X—THE MOSQUES—FAITH AND + SUPERSTITIONS OF THE MUSSULMANS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI—WHIRLING AND HOWLING DERVISHES—WHO + AND WHAT THEY ARE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII—ON THE BOSPHORUS.—AMONG + THE ISLES OF GREECE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII—SYRA, THE MARBLE ISLAND.—LIFE + AT AN ATHENIAN HOTEL. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV—ATHENS ANCIENT AND MODERN—SIGHTS + AND SCENES IN THE GRECIAN CAPITAL. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV—ROUND ABOUT ATHENS.—THE + COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI—THE GLORY OF ATHENS.—ITS + SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, AND RELICS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII—ADVENTURES IN QUARANTINE.—RHODES + AND ITS MARVELS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII—SYRIA, THE LAND OF THE SUN.—DRAGOMEN, + GUIDES, AND COURIERS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX—THE GROVES OF LEBANON.—A + NIGHT AMONG THE ARABS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX—DAMASCUS—THE GARDEN CITY + OF THE EAST. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI—SYRIAN LIFE—DEALERS IN + HUMAN FLESH—WE TRY “ZE LUXURIES OF ZE BATH.” </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII—TRAVELING IN A CARAVAN—SIGHTS + ON THE WAY. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII—TENT-LIFE AMONG THE BEDOUINS.—THE + WARRIORS OF THE DESERT. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV—ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF + SYRIA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XV—“FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA.”—JOURNEYING + THROUGH THE HOLY LAND. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI—IN THE HEART OF PALESTINE. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII—THE LAND OF THE PHILISTINES.—SAMARIA + AND ITS PEOPLE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII—FROM DAMASCUS TO JAFFA.—INCIDENTS + OF THE TRIP. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> CHAPTER XXIX—ENGAGING A DRAGOMAN.—OUR + START FOR JERUSALEM. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> CHAPTER XXX—THE LIONS OF JERUSALEM.—THE + TEMPLE, THE SEPULCHRE, AND THE HOLY OF HOLIES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> CHAPTER XXXI—AMONG THE MONKS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0032"> CHAPTER XXXII—AMONG THE BEDOUINS.—TRAVELLING + UNDER ESCORT, AND LIVING IN TENTS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0033"> CHAPTER XXXIII—THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, AND + SHRINE OF THE CITY OF DAVID </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0034"> CHAPTER XXXIV—THE LAND OF PHARAOH.—THROUGH + THE EGYPTIAN DESERT. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0035"> CHAPTER XXXV—IN AND AROUND THE CITY OF THE + CALIPHS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0036"> CHAPTER XXXVI—AN INTERVIEW WITH THE + KHEDIVE.—LIFE IN THE CITY OF THE NILE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0037"> CHAPTER XXXVII—STREET-LIFE IN CAIRO. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0038"> CHAPTER XXXVIII—THE BAZAARS OF CAIRO.—EGYPTIAN + CURIOSITY SHOPS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0039"> CHAPTER XXXIX—ADVENTURES WITH A DONKEY.—A + DAY AT THE RACES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0040"> CHAPTER XL—THE PASHA AND THE PRIESTS.—EGYPTIAN + LANGUAGE—SCHOOLS AND RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0041"> CHAPTER XLI—THE GREAT PYRAMIDS.—IN + THE KINGS’ BURIAL CHAMBERS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0042"> CHAPTER XLII—A VOYAGE UP THE NILE.—THE + MYSTERIES OF EGYPTIAN ART AND WORSHIP. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0043"> CHAPTER XLIII—LIFE ON THE BANKS OF THE + NILE.—COPTS, JUGGLERS, AND THIEVES.—AMUSING EXPERIENCES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0044"> CHAPTER XLIV—ADVENTURES IN UPPER EGYPT.—FUN + AND FROLIC WITH THE NATIVES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0045"> CHAPTER XLV—THE DANCING GIRLS OF KENEH.—THE + TREASURES OF DENDERAH. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0046"> CHAPTER XLVI—LUXOR, THE CITY OF GIANTS.—AMONG + THE MUMMIES OF ANCIENT THEBES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0047"> CHAPTER XLVII—A VISIT TO A HAREM IN UPPER + EGYPT.—LIFE AMONG THE NUBIANS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0048"> CHAPTER XLVIII—CAMEL RIDING.—ADVENTURES + AMONG THE NUBIANS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0049"> CHAPTER XLIX—IN THE SLAVE-COUNTRY—SIR + SAMUEL W. BAKER’S EXPEDITION. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0050"> CHAPTER L—SUNSET IN THE ORIENT.—VOYAGING + DOWN THE NILE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0051"> CHAPTER LI—THE WEDDING OF THE KHEDIVE’S + SON.—ENJOYING A MONARCH’S HOSPITALITY. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0052"> CHAPTER LII—WOMEN AMONG THE MOHAMMEDANS—LIFE + IN THE HAREM. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0053"> CHAPTER LIII.—WINTER ON THE NILE—THE + KHAMSEEN AND ITS EFFECTS—BEDOUIN LIFE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0054"> CHAPTER LIV—LAST DAYS IN EGYPT. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + AUTHOR’S PREFACE. + </h2> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>he following pages + are the result of a peaceful crusade to the East, undertaken for purposes + of pleasure and profit. The author has endeavored to combine the humorous + features of the journey with the store of useful knowledge that should be + the result of a tour through the Orient. He trusts that he has so combined + them that both will be satisfactory, and that the reader will be amused + while seeking instruction and instructed while seeking amusement. + </p> + <p> + There is a story of an honest old Quaker resident of Philadelphia, who + sent his son to make the tour of Europe. The young man determined to see + all that could be seen, and gave his whole mind to the search for + enjoyment. When he returned from his travels his father said: + </p> + <p> + “John, thou hast been absent a twelvemonth and past, and thou hast + drawn on me for eighteen thousand dollars. John, that is a great deal of + money for thee to spend in one year.” + </p> + <p> + “I know it, father,” was the young man’s response, + “but I have had lots of fun for that money.” + </p> + <p> + In return for the labor and fatigue incident to Oriental travel, the + author believes that he found an ample reward in the entertainment and + information which the journey afforded. + </p> + <p> + The author is glad to avail himself of this opportunity to express the + gratification he feels at seeing his book so profusely and artistically + illustrated. In this department of the work the publishers have displayed + their enterprise and liberality in such a creditable manner, as to justly + entitle them, not only to the author’s grateful acknowledgments, but + to the hearty thanks of all who may read his book. + </p> + <p> + He would also return his thanks to the artists and engravers, who have so + skilfully designed and executed the illustrations, many of which were + drawn and engraved in London and Paris, expressly for this volume. + </p> + <p> + Finally he would thank most cordially the many gentlemen in the various + countries he visited who gave him the benefit of their personal experience + and observation. Their names are too numerous to be included in this + preface, and their nationalities comprise nearly all the civilized + countries of the globe. T. W. K. + </p> + <p> + Principally designed, or reproduced from photographs, by Karl Giradet, + Faguet, Frank Beard, James C. Beard, Arthur Lumley, L. Hopkins, and + eminent artists, and mostly engraved by Messrs. Holier, Pannemaker, + Laptante, Gusmand, Gauchard, and other noted engravers of Paris; by W. J. + Palmer, and the London Illustration Company, of London; and by Charles + Speigle, of New York. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_ILL" id="link2H_ILL"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + ILLUSTRATIONS + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + Page + + 6. Head Piece............................................<a href="#link033">...033</a> + + 7. Steamer Day...........................................<a href="#link034">...034</a> + + 8. The Judge’s First Day at Sea..........................<a + href="#link035">...035</a> + + 9. The Judge’s Second Day at Sea.........................<a + href="#link036">...036</a> + + 10. The Race.............................................<a href="#link039">...039</a> + + 11. The Judge............................................<a href="#link040">...040</a> + + 12. A Practical Joke.....................................<a href="#link044">...044</a> + + 13. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link048">...048</a> + + 14. Fraternizing.........................................<a href="#link050">...050</a> + + 15. Eternal Friendship...................................<a href="#link051">...051</a> + + 16. Proof of the Affray..................................<a href="#link052">...052</a> + + 17. Avenging an Insult...................................<a href="#link054">...054</a> + + 18. “I must have a Duel”.................................<a + href="#link055">...055</a> + + 19. An Imperial Wine Cellar..............................<a href="#link060">...060</a> + + 20. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link063">...063</a> + + 21. “Salt by Yer”........................................<a + href="#link068">...068</a> + + 22. The Snoring Match....................................<a href="#link069">...069</a> + + 23. The Doubter..........................................<a href="#link071">...071</a> + + 24. A Turkish “Hamal”....................................<a + href="#link073">...073</a> + + 25. Tail Piece...........................................<a href="#link077">...077</a> + + 26. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link078">...078</a> + + 27. Among the Fleas......................................<a href="#link079">...079</a> + + 28. A Toilet in Public...................................<a href="#link082">...082</a> + + 29. “Natives of the Country”.............................<a + href="#link085">...085</a> + + 30. Precautionary Measures...............................<a href="#link086">...086</a> + + 31. “She is a Jewess”....................................<a + href="#link089">...089</a> + + 32. The Palace Tshiragan.................................<a href="#link091">...091</a> + + 33. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link093">...093</a> + + 34. Shirking the Cemetery................................<a href="#link097">...097</a> + + 35. “Fresh Paint”........................................<a + href="#link100">...100</a> + + 36. Driving a Bargain....................................<a href="#link104">...104</a> + + 37. A Night at Baidar....................................<a href="#link106">...106</a> + + 38. Caught in the Act....................................<a href="#link108">...108</a> + + 39. Tail Piece...........................................<a href="#link109">...109</a> + + 40. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link110">...110</a> + + 41. Putting in his “Best Licks”..........................<a + href="#link112">...112</a> + + 42. “Backsheesh”.........................................<a + href="#link113">...113</a> + + 43. An Impressive Scene..................................<a href="#link116">...116</a> + + 44. Constantinople from the Tower of Golata—Full.......<a + href="#link116">...116</a> + + 45. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link123">...123</a> + + 46. A Street in Constantinople...........................<a href="#link124">...124</a> + + 47. Strategy.............................................<a href="#link126">...126</a> + + 48. The Reconnoitre......................................<a href="#link129">...129</a> + + 49. The Retreat..........................................<a href="#link130">...130</a> + + 50. A Damas-cussed Dog...................................<a href="#link131">...131</a> + + 51. Stowing the Sandwiches...............................<a href="#link132">...132</a> + + 52. Admiring the Mosque..................................<a href="#link132">...132</a> + + 53. A Sudden Attack......................................<a href="#link132">...132</a> + + 54. The Pursuit..........................................<a href="#link133">...133</a> + + 55. A Hopeless Chase.....................................<a href="#link133">...133</a> + + 56. “Retrospection”......................................<a + href="#link134">...134</a> + + 57. Tail Piece...........................................<a href="#link135">...135</a> + + 58. Headpiece............................................<a href="#link135">...135</a> + + 59. A Sedan Chair........................................<a href="#link136">...136</a> + + 60. A Turkish Beauty.....................................<a href="#link137">...137</a> + + 61. An Importunate Moslem................................<a href="#link143">...143</a> + + 62. Extorting “Backsheesh”...............................<a + href="#link144">...144</a> + + 63. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link145">...145</a> + + 64. End of the Fast and Beginning of the Feast..........<a href="#link146">...146</a> + + 65. “Good-Bye, my Friend, Good-Bye”......................<a + href="#link148">...148</a> + + 66. A Turkish “Cavass”...................................<a + href="#link149">...149</a> + + 67. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link153">...153</a> + + 68. Moslems at Prayer....................................<a href="#link154">...154</a> + + 69. “Bismillah”.........................................<a + href="#link155">...155</a> + + 70. The “Duplicate”......................................<a + href="#link157">...157</a> + + 71. Muezzin announcing the Hour of Prayer................<a href="#link158">...158</a> + + 72. An Oriental Boot Jack................................<a href="#link160">...160</a> + + 73. Fartha, or Opening Chapter of the Koran..............<a href="#link163">...163</a> + + 74. Tail Piece...........................................<a href="#link165">...165</a> + + 75. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link166">...166</a> + + 76. A Whirling Dervish...................................<a href="#link170">...170</a> + + 77. Effect of too much Whirling..........................<a href="#link171">...171</a> + + 78. Howling as a Profession..............................<a href="#link173">...173</a> + + 79. Homopathic Treatment.................................<a href="#link175">...175</a> + + 80. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link177">...177</a> + + 81. Some of the Brothers of Far-Away Moses...............<a href="#link178">...178</a> + + 82. Interviewing a Purser................................<a href="#link184">...184</a> + + 83. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link187">...187</a> + + 84. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link197">...197</a> + + 85. View of Athens and the Acropolis.....................<a href="#link199">...199</a> + + 86. The Decline of Greece................................<a href="#link201">...201</a> + + 87. Greek Priest of Modern Times.........................<a href="#link204">...204</a> + + 88. “Doing” the Ruins....................................<a + href="#link206">...206</a> + + 89. Tail Piece..........................................<a href="#link212">...212</a> + + 90. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link213">...213</a> + + 91. Sending Up the Ear of a Victim.......................<a href="#link217">...217</a> + + 92. Head Piece..........................................<a href="#link225">...225</a> + + 93. Pickling the “Doubter”...............................<a + href="#link229">...229</a> + + 94. “Backsheesh!” “Backsheesh!”..........................<a + href="#link231">...231</a> + + 95. Head Piece...........................................<a href="#link236">...236</a> + + 96. Inspecting the Crew..................................<a href="#link241">...241</a> + + 97. Bad “Backsheesh.”—“It was Counterfeit”..............<a + href="#link243">...243</a> + + 98. St. Jean D’Acre—Full Paye...........................<a + href="#link249">...249</a> + + 99. A Tricky Beast.......................................<a href="#link254">...254</a> + + 100. Beyrout and the Mountains of Lebanon—Full Page.....<a + href="#link257">...257</a> + + 101. “Mou Dieu! Is this the Party for Damascus?”.........<a + href="#link262">...262</a> + + 102. Head Piece..........................................<a href="#link264">...264</a> + + 103. The Cedars of Lebanon—Full Page....................<a + href="#link265">...265</a> + + 104. Cedar of Lebanon....................................<a href="#link270">...270</a> + + 105. Great Stone at Baalbek..............................<a href="#link272">...272</a> + + 106. Portal of the Temple of the Sun at Baalbek..........<a href="#link275">...275</a> + + 107. Court of a House in Damascus........................<a href="#link279">...279</a> + + 108. Moslem Women Weeping at a Tomb......................<a href="#link282">...282</a> + + 109. Syrian Jew with Phylactery..........................<a href="#link285">...285</a> + + 110. A Money Changer in the Bazaar.......................<a href="#link288">...288</a> + + 111. Flat Roofed Houses—Damascus........................<a + href="#link291">...291</a> + + 112. Abd-el-Kader........................................<a href="#link293">...293</a> + + 113. We “Strip to ze buff”...............................<a + href="#link296">...296</a> + + 114. “You will have all ze luxuries”.....................<a + href="#link296">...296</a> + + 115. We Enter “Ze Bain Beautiful”........................<a + href="#link297">...297</a> + + 116. One of the Luxuries.................................<a href="#link297">...297</a> + + 117. Softening the Asperities............................<a href="#link298">...298</a> + + 118. A Not One...........................................<a href="#link298">...298</a> + + 119. “What is Curlew?”...................................<a + href="#link305">...305</a> + + 120. A Bedouin Encampment................................<a href="#link308">...308</a> + + 121. A Bedouin of the Desert.............................<a href="#link309">...309</a> + + 122. The Terror of the Desert on his Arabian Charger.....<a href="#link311">...311</a> + + 123. Enins of Palmyra—Full Page.........................<a + href="#link315">...315</a> + + 124. Hebron—Full Page...................................<a + href="#link319">...319</a> + + 125. Mount Carmel—Full Page.............................<a + href="#link323">...323</a> + + 126. An Inhabited Boot,..................................<a href="#link325">...325</a> + + 127. Ploughing in Syria,.................................<a href="#link332">...332</a> + + 128. All that remains of Capernaum,......................<a href="#link334">...334</a> + + 129. “Backsheesh! O Howadji!”............................<a + href="#link335">...335</a> + + 130. The Sea of Tibenas—Full Page.......................<a + href="#link337">...337</a> + + 131. Magdala,............................................<a href="#link339">...339</a> + + 132. Unhorsing the “Doubter,”............................<a + href="#link342">...342</a> + + 133. Nazareth—Full Page.................................<a + href="#link345">...345</a> + + 134. Jeivs of Nazareth—Full Page........................<a + href="#link349">...349</a> + + 135. A Syrian Water Bearer,..............................<a href="#link353">...353</a> + + 136. Jerusalem and Surrounding Country—Full Page........<a + href="#link359">...359</a> + + 137. Sidon—Full Page....................................<a + href="#link365">...365</a> + + 138. Tyre,...............................................<a href="#link368">...368</a> + + 139. Tail Piece,.........................................<a href="#link369">...369</a> + + 140. Jaffa—Full Page....................................<a + href="#link371">...371</a> + + 141. Our Dragoman, Ali Soloman,.........................<a href="#link374">...374</a> + + 141. “Backsheesh,”.......................................<a + href="#link376">...376</a> + + 143. Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives—Full Page.......<a + href="#link377">...377</a> + + 144. Ancient Arch; Portion of the Haram Wall,............<a href="#link380">...380</a> + + 145. A Street in Jerusalem,.............................<a href="#link381">...381</a> + + 146. Arched Street and Fountain, Jerusalem,..............<a href="#link382">...382</a> + + 147. Jdrindpal Street of Jerusalem—Full Page............<a + href="#link383">...383</a> + + 148. The Golden Gate, Jerusalem,........................<a href="#link386">...386</a> + + 149. Interior of the Golden Gate,........................<a href="#link387">...387</a> + + 150. Site of the Temple, Jerusalem,......................<a href="#link388">...388</a> + + 151. Ancient Signet Ring,................................<a href="#link389">...389</a> + + 152. Ancient Signet Ring,................................<a href="#link389">...389</a> + + 153. Exploring the Substructions,........................<a href="#link390">...390</a> + + 154. Underground—Beneath the City of Jerusalem..........<a + href="#link391">...391</a> + + 155. The Valley of Jehoshapliat,.........................<a href="#link393">...393</a> + + 156. Wailing Place of the Jews, Jerusalem,...............<a href="#link394">...394</a> + + 157. Walls of the Church of the Presentation—Full Page..<a + href="#link395">...395</a> + + 158. Bethlehem—Full Page...............................<a + href="#link399">...399</a> + + 159. Chinch of the Nativity, Bethlehem—Full Page........<a + href="#link405">...405</a> + + 160. Monastery of Mar Saba—Full Page....................<a + href="#link409">...409</a> + + 161. A Formidable Escort,................................<a href="#link414">...414</a> + + 162. Bathing Place of the Pilgrims on the Jordan.........<a href="#link417">...417</a> + + 163. The “Doubter’s” Mishap,.............................<a + href="#link420">...420</a> + + 164. The Mount of Olives—Full Page......................<a + href="#link423">...423</a> + + 165. Pool of Hezekiah,...................................<a href="#link426">...426</a> + + 166. West Door, Church of the Holy Sepulchre.............<a href="#link427">...427</a> + + 167. Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Full Page.............<a + href="#link429">...429</a> + + 168. The Fountain of the Virgin,.........................<a href="#link431">...433</a> + + 169. Doubter’—Sixpence,”................................<a + href="#link436">...436</a> + + 170. Jaffa Orange Seller,................................<a href="#link438">...438</a> + + 171. Tail Piece,.........................................<a href="#link439">...439</a> + + 172. Water Bearers at the Railway Station, Cairo,........<a href="#link447">...447</a> + + 173. Praying in the Streets of Cairo,....................<a href="#link448">...448</a> + + 174. Cairo—Full Page....................................<a + href="#link449">...449</a> + + 175. Massacre of the Mamalukes—Full Page................<a + href="#link455">...455</a> + + 176. Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt,.....................<a href="#link458">...458</a> + + 177. A Tough One,........................................<a href="#link459">...459</a> + + 178. Head Piece..........................................<a href="#link468">...468</a> + + 179. Tombs of the Sultans—Cairo—Full Page...............<a + href="#link469">...469</a> + + 180. “O Ye Thirsty,”.....................................<a + href="#link470">...472</a> + + 181. Children Bread Sellers in the Streets of Cairo,....<a href="#link473">...473</a> + + 182. Mosque of the Sultan Hassan, at Cairo—Full Page....<a + href="#link477">...475</a> + + 183. Young Street Arabs of Cairo,........................<a href="#link477">...477</a> + + 184. Shoe Peddler in the Bazaar,.........................<a href="#link479">...479</a> + + 185. Latticed Windows—Cairo,............................<a + href="#link480">...480</a> + + 186. An Auctioneer in the Bazaars,.......................<a href="#link485">...485</a> + + 187. A Syce,............................................<a href="#link489">...489</a> + + 188. Donkey Drivers of Cairo—Full Page..................<a + href="#link491">...491</a> + + 189. Not up to the Dodge,................................<a href="#link494">...494</a> + + 190. An Egyptian Eunuch,.................................<a href="#link496">...496</a> + + 191. An Arab School—Full Page...........................<a + href="#link503">...503</a> + + 192. Ceremony of the Doseh,..............................<a href="#link510">...510</a> + + 193. A Shadoof for Drawing Water from the Nile..........<a href="#link515">...515</a> + + 194. Climbing the Pyramid,...............................<a href="#link518">...518</a> + + 195. The Ascent of the Judge,............................<a href="#link520">...520</a> + + 196. An Arab Feat,......................................<a href="#link522">...522</a> + + 197. The Sphinx and the Great Pyramid of Gizeh...........<a href="#link523">...523</a> + + 198. A Nile Boat.........................................<a href="#link530">...530</a> + + 199. The Serapeum—Memphis—Full Page.............<a + href="#link537">...........537</a> + + 200. Landing Place at Beni-Soef—Full Page..............<a + href="#link545">...545</a> + + 201. Sugar Cane Seller at Minieh,.......................<a href="#link550">...549</a> + + 202. An Inconvenient Position,...........................<a href="#link552">...552</a> + + 203. Siout—Upper Egypt—Full Page.......................<a + href="#link555">...555</a> + + 204. “Nargeeleh,”........................................<a + href="#link557">...557</a> + + 205. Siout Egg Merchant,.................................<a href="#link558">...558</a> + + 206. Egyptian Gamblers,..................................<a href="#link559">...559</a> + + 207. “Aoz, Eh?”..........................................<a + href="#link663">...663</a> + + 208. “Dusting” for “Backsheesh,”.........................<a + href="#link566">...566</a> + + 209. An Egyptian Ghawazee,...............................<a href="#link569">...569</a> + + 210. Ghawazee and Musicians,.............................<a href="#link570">...570</a> + + 211. An Egyptian Musician,...............................<a href="#link574">...574</a> + + 212. Egyptian Water Carriers Filling their Jars..........<a href="#link575">...575</a> + + 213. Ruins of the Temple of Denderah, Upper Egypt........<a href="#link579">...579</a> + + 214. Entrance to the Temple of Luxor.....................<a href="#link587">...587</a> + + 215. The Memnonlum and the Ruined Statue.................<a href="#link593">...593</a> + + 216. Sitting Colossi,....................................<a href="#link595">...595</a> + + 217. A Fresh One.........................................<a href="#link599">...599</a> + + 218. Interior of a Harem.................................<a href="#link601">...601</a> + + 219. A Murderous Assault,................................<a href="#link607">...607</a> + + 220. A Nubian Belle,.....................................<a href="#link609">...609</a> + + 221. A Nubian Lady.......................................<a href="#link610">...610</a> + + 222. An Egyptian Sakfdeh, Drawing Water from the Nile....<a href="#link611">...611</a> + + 213. All Affectionate Beast..............................<a href="#link614">...613</a> + + 214. Luxuries of Camel Riding............................<a href="#link615">...615</a> + + 225. Egyptian God Osiris.................................<a href="#link617">...617</a> + + 226. Egyptian Goddess Isis...............................<a href="#link618">...618</a> + + 227. Island of Phike, or Sacred Island—Full Page........<a + href="#link619">...619</a> + + 218. Sacred Lotus of the Egyptians—Full Page............<a + href="#link627">...627</a> + + 219. Modern Egyptian Gristmill...........................<a href="#link630">...630</a> + + 230. A Nubian Warrior....................................<a href="#link632">...632</a> + + 231. Papyrus of the Egyptians—Full Page.................<a + href="#link633">...633</a> + + 231. Biting the Dust.....................................<a href="#link641">...641</a> + + 233. Women of Cairo—Full Page...........................<a + href="#link655">...655</a> + + 234. Bread Seller in the Streets of Cairo................<a href="#link659">...659</a> + + 235. A Lady of the Harem.................................<a href="#link662">...662</a> + + 236. An Egyptian Barber..................................<a href="#link665">...665</a> + + 237. Alexandria—Full Page...............................<a + href="#link671">...671</a> + + 238. Court of a House in Egypt,..........................<a href="#link673">...673</a> + + 239. A Bedouin Encampment near Cairo,....................<a href="#link675">...675</a> + + 240. The Madonna Tree,...................................<a href="#link676">...676</a> + + 241. Boot Blacks of Cairo,...............................<a href="#link679">...679</a> + + 242. Mosque of Sultan Berkook, and Fountain of Ismail....<a href="#link682">...682</a> + + 243. Modern Egyptian Oven,...............................<a href="#link683">...683</a> + + 244. Palace of the Viceroy, near Alexandria—Full Page...<a + href="#link689">...689</a> + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP I—STEAMER LIFE ON THE ATLANTIC. + </h2> + <p> + Leaving Home—Our Pilgrimage Begun—Sights and Scenes on Deck—“Life + on the Ocean Wave”—Out at Sea—The Traveller’s + Little World—Feeling Queer Inside!—Delights of Sea-Sickness—Reminiscences + of a Jolly Old Boy—What Became of the Judge—Bringing up his + Liver!—Too Big for his Berth—Sleeping in a Second-Hand Coffin—A + Race with a Lemon—The Leg of Mutton Dance—Eccentric Conduct of + a Boiled Turkey—Too Much Sauce!—“Dressing” the + Judge’s Trowsers—Alone at Sea—A Funny Conspiracy—Fate + of a Timid Man—Confidence Betrayed—The Young Man from the + Country—His Wisdom and his Woes—Drinking Petroleum—The + Judge Turns Joker—Who Owns the Ocean Steamers.......<a + href="#link033">...033</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP II—SCENES IN VIENNA.—DOWN THE DANUBE. + </h3> + <p> + On English Ground—The Road to the East—Life in the Austrian + Capital—Fun and Festivity—Visit to the Big Beer-Garden—Effects + of Champagne—Animated Conversation—How Twenty Thousand Dollars + were Spent—The Man with the Torn Vest—Headaches at a Discount—Yankees + in a Row—A Pugnacious Russian—“Quits,” but not + Satisfied—Challenging an American—The Fashionable World—Down + the Danube—Scenes on the River—I low Austrian Cigars are Made—An + Imperial Tobacco Dealer—The Rattle of Wagram—Castle of l’resburg—We + Enter Hungary—An Evening in a Wine Cellar—Want of a Little + Soap—Night Scene on the Danube,........<a href="#link048">...048</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP III—LIFE AMONG THE MAGYARS. + </h3> + <p> + A City of Renown—Overwhelmed by the Moods—Lying in Clover—What + I Saw in the Hungarian Capital—“The Poor Folks’ Bath”—Rather + Warm Quarters—Life Among the Magyars—The “Miffs” + of an Imperial Couple—Her Majesty’s Choice—A Model + Captain—Charles Matthews and the Row-cry Roy—Facts and Fancies + of a Snoring Match—The “Judge” and the “Doubter”—The + Man who Wouldn’t Relieve—Who were the “Hamals,” + and What They Did—People in Strange Garments—Raggy Breeches + versus glop—The Fortress of Belgrade—Servin, and What I Saw of + Its People— The Assassination of Prince Milochi—Rather Bad for + Poetry,........<a href="#link063">...063</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP IV—NEARING THE ORIENT.—“BACKSHEESH!” + </h3> + <p> + Among the Fleas—The Mystery of the Redclothes—A Cool + Explanation— Under the Spray—What Became of the Dragon—A + Queer Story about Flics—What Is an “Araba?”—Conversation + without Words—Changing Shirts in Public—The Iron Gate—Scene + at the Custom-House—Official Obstinacy—The “Sick Man”—Scenes + in the Orient—The Mysteries of the Quarantine—How we Dodged + the Turks—The Turk and his Rosary—Pity the Poor Israelite!—Why + an Unlucky Jewess was Whipped—The Secret of the Turkish Loan—How + the Money is Spent—Ten Million Dollars Gone!—What is “Backsheesh?”........<a + href="#link078">...078</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP V—THROUGH THE CRIMEA.—IN AND AROUND SEVASTOPOL. + </h3> + <p> + A Visit to the Crimea—The Porter with the Big Books—The Danger + of Siberia—Our Entry into Sevastopol—Terrible Reminiscences of + the Crimean War—How we Shirked the Cemetery—The Great Dock + Yard of Sevastopol—We Visit a Remarkable Gunboat—What we Saw + Below-Deck—The Story that our landlord Told—An Enterprising + Tartar—The “Doubter” Offers an Opinion—How the + “Judge” Stole a Newspaper—Adventures by the Way—The + “Doubter” gets into Trouble—We Fly to the Rescue—Eccentricities + of a Selfish Man—We Rise and Depart,........<a href="#link093">...093</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP VI—ACROSS THE BLACK SEA. + </h3> + <p> + A Visit to a Russian Police Office—Smith, and What he Did—A + Bad Lot of Passports—A Race after a Governor in a Drosky—-More + “Backsheesh”—Delicate Administration of a Bribe—An + Obliging Subordinate—Attempt at a Swindle—Scraping an + Acquaintance—High Life on the Black Sea—Muscovite Ladies—Sunrise + on the Euxine—Worshipping the Sun—Stamboul—Passing + Quarantine—On the Bosphorus—A Magnificent Spectacle—The + Castle of Europe—Palaces and Villas—Domes and Minarets—The + Golden Horn—In Front of Constantinople—Rapacity of Boatmen—Turkish + Thieves—Streets of the City,........<a href="#link110">...110</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP VII—CONSTANTINOPLE.—THE CITY OF DOGS. + </h3> + <p> + Human Camels—Canine Colors—The Dogs of Istamboul—Their + Appearance and Moral Character—How the Turks Regard Them—“Inshallah”—Constantinopolitan + Dogsologies—An Oriental Dog-Fight—Sagacious Brutes—Cultivating + Canine Society—“Standing Treat” among the Curs—Four-Footed + Campaigns—Dog-Districts—The Hostile Armies—A Brilliant + Strategic Move—-Charge of the Light (Dog) Brigade—Advance of + the Chef de garbage—The “Army of the West” in Retreat—The + “Doubter’s” Misha—Full Details of a Coat’s + Detailing—An Israelite in whom there <i>was</i> Guile—No More + Sandwiches for Me, Sir-r-r,........<a href="#link123">...123</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP VIII—TURKISH CURIOSITY SHOPS.—SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE + BAZAARS. + </h3> + <p> + Locomotion in Constantinople—Horses, Donkeys, Shanks’ Mare and + Sedan Chairs—Turkish Street Cars—Women in Public—The + Veiled Queens of Seraglios—The Drugs of the Orient—Henna and + its Uses—Ottar of Roses, Musk and Bergamot—Shawls and Silks of + Price—The Treasures of Ormus and of Ind—The Workers in + Precious Metals—Vases of Gold and Platters of Silver—An + Aureole of Gems—Loot for Soldiers and Swag for Burglars—The + Weapons of Ancient Islam—Blades of Damascus and Swords of Mecca—A + Wonderful Collection—Old Clothes and New Truck—A Seedy Moslem + Swindler—An Exorbitant “Backsheesh”—What Happened + to the Judge—A Dispenser of Justice in the Lockup,.......<a + href="#link135">...135</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP IX—LIFE IN THE HAREM.—MYSTERIES OF THE SERAGLIO. + </h3> + <p> + The Great Moslem Fast—Nights of Feasting and Days of Fasting—The + Injunction of Mahomet—The Ravenous Mussulman—An Hotel Swindle—A + Stranger and they Took Him In—“Too Thin, Too Thin”—Greek + Wine—Going Out in a Blaze of Glory—Thunder, Smoke, and Flame—The + Approach of the Sultan—How he Looked—A Peep at the Ladies of + the Harem—The Veiled Queens—The Sultan’s Mother—The + Empress Eugenie at the Seraglio—Insult Offered to Eugenie—A + Queen in Tears—A Question of Court Etiquette—Murdering + Christians,........<a href="#link145">...145</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP X—THE MOSQUES.—FAITH AND SUPERSTITIONS OF THE MUSSULMANS. + </h3> + <p> + Among the Mosques—Their Special Uses—Greek Burglars, their + Capture and Execution—A “Firman,” What Is It—A + Turkish Dragoman—A Relic of Ancient Byzantium—Its Name and + Origin—Taking a Portrait—Turkish Superstitions—Worshipping + in St. Sophia—Moslem Fanatics—Counting The Minarets—What + Came of a Wet Pair of Boots—The Judge in a Tight Place—The + “Doubter” Commits Sacrilege—Uncovering a Sarcophagus—Attacked + by the Priests—Barefooted Worshippers—Teachings of the Koran—Cleanliness + and Temperance—Why Turkish Women Do Not Go to the Mosques—Why + Good Mussulmans Never Get Drunk,........<a href="#link153">...153</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XI—WHIRLING AND HOWLING DERVISHES.—WHO AND WHAT THEY ARE. + </h3> + <p> + The Dervishes of Constantinople, What Are They?—How they Live and + What they Do—Unclean and Devout Beggars—Where they Bury their + Dead—Opening their Circus—Removing the “Doubter’s” + Boots—An Amusing Situation—Clearing the Floor—Human + Top-Spinning—Dropping into Jelly-Bags—A Pliable Lot of Living + Corpses—The Howling Dervishes—Where and How they Live—A + House Full of Madmen—A Shrieking Chant—“La Hah il Allah”—Stirring + Up the Wild Beasts—Spectators Joining in the Chorus—Horrible + Superstitious Rites—Treading on Sick Children—Reaching + Paradise by Bodily Tortures—A Sad Disappointment—The Founder + of the Sect, and who he Was—Pulling Teeth as a Proof of + Sanctity,........<a href="#link166">...166</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XII—GOOD-BYE, CONSTANTINOPLE!—ADVENTURES BY THE WAY. + </h3> + <p> + Far-Away Moses, the Famous Guide—His Numerous Brothers—His + Shop in the Great Bazaar—An Evening at the “Foreign Club”—Dreaming + of Polyglots and the Tower of Babel—More “Backsheesh”—Passing + the Custom House—How they Protect Home Manufactures—Standing + Up for One’s Own Country—“Honesty ish te Besht Bolicy”—Borrowing + Money at Twenty per Cent.—The Start from Constantinople—A Hint + to Travellers—Sleeping in Public on the Stage—Interviewing the + Purser—A Satisfactory Arrangement—Baron Bruck and his Career—Unwelcome + Intruders—Classic Ground—One Trifling Peculiarity,.......*** + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XIII—SYRA, THE MARBLE ISLAND.—LIFE IN AN ATHENIAN HOTEL. + </h3> + <p> + In sight of Syra—Active Trade in one Fish—A town all Built of + Marble—The “Doubter” Expresses his Sentiments—Gustave’s + Adventure—Walking on One’s Ear—“A little more + beer, boy!”—The Pirates’ Retreat—Extraordinary + Politeness in a Cafe—A lesson for American Barkeepers—In the + Stamboul’s Cabin—“Blowing great guns”—A Tale + of a Tub—Honey and Marble—Standing in the City of Demosthenes—The + Battle of the Rival Hotels—Profanity in an Unknown Tongue—Out-generaling + Inn-keepers—Tricks on Travellers—Useful Knowledge for Foreign + Travel,........<a href="#link187">...187</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XIV—ATHENS, ANCIENT AND MODERN.—SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE + GRECIAN CAPITAL. + </h3> + <p> + First Impressions of Athens—Opinion of the “Doubter”—“Not + Worth Damming”—The Oldest Inhabitant of Athens—Celebrated + Ruins—Reminiscences of Greek Grammar—A “Big Injun” + on Greek—Drinking Beer on Sacred Soil—A Toper-graphical Survey—The + Acropolis—What Is It?—The Temple of Jupiter Olympus—Seven + Hundred Years in Building—A Young Englishman in a Scrape—Sunset + from the Acropolis—Byron’s Glorious Lines—The Parthenon + and its Surroundings—Foundations of the Ancient Citadel—Excavations + of Antiquarians—Greek Art—An Important Discovery—The + Line of Beauty,........<a href="#link197">...197</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XV—ROUND ABOUT ATHENS.—THE COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS. + </h3> + <p> + Mars’ Hill, the Place where St. Paul Preached on the Unknown God—The + Prison of Socrates—The Country of the Brigands—Escorted by + Greek Soldiers—Captures by the Brigands—How they Treat + Captives—Extorting Ransoms—Buying Coins and Relics—Swindling + Travellers—Among the Ruins—Strange Contrasts—“Chaffing” + the Guide—Position of the Persian and Grecian Hosts—Xerxes’ + Throne—“The King Sate on the Rocky Brow”—Making + the Ascent by Proxy—“I No Go ze Mountain”—The + Battle of Marathon—A Survivor of the Battle—How the Victory + was Won,........<a href="#link213">...213</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XVI—THE GLORY OF ATHENS.—ITS SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, AND + RELICS. + </h3> + <p> + The Opera at Athens—Handsome Greeks—The King and Queen—A + Lovely Trio—Losing a Heart—Byron’s “Maid of Athens”—How + She Looked—Her House and History—The Acropolis by Moonlight—Waking + the Guard—A Sham Permit—“Backsheesh”—The + Parthenon by Night—Greek Gypsies—Among the Curiosity Shops—Dr. + Schliemann and his Trojan Discoveries—The Gold and Silver Vases of + King Priam—Where they were Found—Relics of the Sack of Troy—Curious + Workmanship—Some Account of the Excavations—We Leave Athens—A + Queer Steamer—“Pay or Go to Prison”—End of Our + Steamship Adventure,........<a href="#link225">...225</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XVII—ADVENTURES IN QUARANTINE.—RHODES AND ITS MARVELS. + </h3> + <p> + Missing our Steamer—A Serious Dilemma—A Study of Faces—Making + a Row and What Came of It—Under the Yellow Flag—Adventures of + a Quarantined Traveller—Escaping the Plague—<i>Mal-de-Mer</i>—A + Laughable Incident—Getting on our Sea-Legs—Custom-House + Troubles—The Potency of “Backsheesh”—Oriental + Fashions in New York—“Doing” a Custom-House Inspector—A + Curious Tradition—The “Lamb” as a Trade Mark—The + Temple of Diana—One of the “Seven Wonders”—Singular + Discoveries—A Horde of Scoundrels—The Island of Rhodes—The + Colossus—A Wonderful City—The Knights of St. John—Their + Exploits—Surrendering to the Turks,........<a href="#link236">...236</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XVIII—SYRIA, THE LAND OF THE SUN.—DRAGOMEN, GUIDES, AND + COURIERS. + </h3> + <p> + A Rough Night on Shipboard—A Sea-Sick Turk—What he Said—Rum + and Petroleum—Meditations on Turkish Hash—The Camel, his + Tricks and Uses—A Knowing Brute—How he Shirks a Burden—George + Smith, the Assyrian Savan—Beyrout—Its Antiquities and Wonders—Going + on Shore—The Dragoman and his Office—Eastern Guides and their + Character—Travelling on Horseback in Syria—The Road to + Damascus—An Unexpected Trouble—Paying Fare by Weight—Disadvantages + of a Heavy “Party”—A Trial of Wits—Waking up the + Judge—Telling White Lies—The “Doubter’s” + Predicament,........<a href="#link252">...252</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XIX—THE GROVES OF LEBANON.—A NIGHT AMONG THE ARABS. + </h3> + <p> + “The Sights” of Beyrout—Excursion to Dog River—An + Obstinate Carriage-Owner—How he was “Euchred”—Moral + of this Incident—Off for Damascus—Ascending Mt. Lebanon—An + Arab Driver—Cultivating “Kalil”, our Jehu—The + Cedars of Lebanon—A Grove as Old as Solomon’s Temple—A + Wonderful Old City—The Temple of the Sun—Mystery of Tadmor—Cyclopean + Masonry—Monstrous Monoliths—Their Dimensions—The “Doubter’s” + Doubts and their Solution—Sleeping in an Arab House—What we + Saw There—Divans as Couches—A Dangerous Valley—The + Robber’s Haunt,........<a href="#link264">...264</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XX—DAMASCUS.—THE GARDEN CITY OF THE EAST. + </h3> + <p> + Dimitri and his Hotel—Court-Yards and Fountain—How People Live + in Damascus—Parlors, Bed-Rooms and Boudoirs—A Bet and its + Decision—The “Doubter and his Donkey”—The Street + called “Straight”—Bab-Shurky—Spots Famous in + History—Shaking Hands across a Street—Scene of St. raid’s + Conversion—The Window of Escape—Tombs of Mohammed’s + Wives—The “Doubter” Figuring on Probabilities—An + Unexpected Upset—Visiting the Leper’s Hospital—A + Frightful Spectacle—The Great Mosque—View from the Minaret—The + Bazaars and Curiosity Shops—Making a Trade—A Case of + Fraud,........<a href="#link278">...278</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXI—SYRIAN LIFE.—DEALERS IN HUMAN FLESH.—WE TRY + “ZE LUXURIES OF ZE BATH.” + </h3> + <p> + In the Slave-Market—A Dealer in Human Flesh—A Stealthy Trade—Examining + Female Slaves—Serfdom in Syria—Inside Views of a Syrian + Household—Jewish Houses—An Oriental Song—Smoking with + the Ladies—Syrian Customs—A Famous Arab Chief—Visiting + Abd-el-Kader’s House—The City of the Caliphs—Taking a + Bath—Mohammed and his Trowsers—A New Species of Cushion—The + Bath-House—Disrobing—Securing our Valuables—Muslem + Honesty—Sitting Down in a Hot Place—Gustave’s + Misadventure—Undergoing a Shampoo—Rubbed to a Jelly—The + Couch of Repose—A Delicious Sensation—“All ze Luxuries,”........<a + href="#link290">...290</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXII—TRAVELLING IN A CARAVAN.—SIGHTS ON THE WAY. + </h3> + <p> + Turning our Faces Eastward—The Land of the Sun—Palmyra, + Bagdad, and Babylon—The Desert in Summer and Winter—A + Dangerous Road—The Robbers of the Wilderness—Ruins in the + Desert—A City of Wonders—The Haunts of the Bedouins—Engaging + an Escort—The Start for Palmyra—On a Dromedary’s Back—The + Environs of Damascus—A Bed on the Sand—“Every One to his + Taste”—A Knavish Governor—Winking at Robbery—In + the Desert—On the great Caravan Track—Caravansaries, What Are + they?—The High Road to India—An Arab Fountain,........<a + href="#link300">...300</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXIII—TENT-LIFE AMONG THE BEDOUINS—THE WARRIORS OF THE + DESERT. + </h3> + <p> + Among the Bedouins—A Genuine Son of the Desert—High-Toned + Robbers—A Sample of Bedouin Hospitality—Etiquette in an Arab + Encampment—A Case of Insult—Tent-Life and its Freedom—A + Nation of Cavalry-Warriors—Bedouin Dress, Manners and Customs—Their + Horses and Weapons—A Singular Custom—A Caricature Steed and + his Rider—Arab Scare-Crows—On the Road to Palmyra—A + Mountain of Ruins—The Grand Colonnade—The Temple of the Sun—A + Building Half a Mile in Circumference—An Earthquake, and What It Did—The + City of the Caliphs,........<a href="#link307">...307</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXIV—ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF SYRIA. + </h3> + <p> + “Doing” Syria—The “Short” and the “Long” + Route—How to Choose Them—Engaging a Dragoman—Farewell to + Damascus—Preying on Travellers—The Wonderful Rivers of Syria—Crossing + the Desert—A Picture of Desolation—Scene of St. Paul’s + Conversion—A Striking Contrast—Ancient Ruins and Modern Hovels—A + Night with the Bedouins—A Hard Road to Travel—A Glorious View—The + “Doubter’s” Mischance—The Lizard in the Boot—A + Ludicrous Scene—Gustave’s New Joke—Mollifying a Native—The + Massacre at Hasbeiya—Treachery of a Turkish Colonel—Scene of + Christ’s Labors—In the Holy Land,........<a href="#link318">...318</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXV.—“FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA”—JOURNEYING + THROUGH THE HOLY LAND. + </h3> + <p> + Our First Morning in Palestine—Breaking Camp at Banias—“From + Dan to Beersheba”—Explanation of the Phrase—The Cup of + the Hills—The Golden Calf of Jeroboam—Story of Vishnu and his + Idol—An Incident and its Moral—The Battle-fields of Joshua—A + Singular Species of Plough—The “Doubter” in a Quandary—Joseph’s + Pit—The Sea of Galilee—Fishing with Poisoned Bait—Capernaum + and its Ruins—Scene of Christ’s Miracles—The Birthplace + of Mary Magdalen—A Horde of Beggars—A Pitiful Spectacle—The + Robber’s Cave—Herod and his Strategy—The Jews of + Tiberias—A Seedy Crowd—Ruins of the Ancient City—The + Spot where Christ Fed the Multitude,........<a href="#link329">...329</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXVI—IN THE HEART OF PALESTINE. + </h3> + <p> + Bathing in the Sea of Galilee—Standing on Holy Ground—How the + “Doubter” was Unhorsed—A Second Absalom—Lunching + on the Summit of Tabor—Saracenic Vengeance—A Reminiscence of + the Crusades—A Magnificent Sight—Discussing “Backsheesh” + with the Natives—The “Doubter” as a Cashier—The + Grotto of the Holy Family—Mary’s House—The House of + Loretto—The Story of the Miracle—The Monk and the “Doubter”—Dean + Stanley’s Explanation—Joseph’s Tool Chest—The + “Doubter’s” Demand—The Witch of Endor “At + Home”—Blood-Revenge—A Pertinacious Feud—Saul and + the Witch,........<a href="#link341">...341</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXVII—THE LAND OF THE PHILISTINES.—SAMARIA AND ITS + PEOPLE. + </h3> + <p> + The City of Nain—“Spoiling the Egyptians”—Ruins of + an old Philistine City—Curious Strategy—The Torches in + Pitchers—Kleber and the Turks—Ahab’s Palace—Tropical + Picture—A Crusader’s Church—More “Backsheesh”—The + Samaritans of To-day—The Mount of Blessings and the Mount of + Cursings—A Despised People—A Strange Religious Belief—A + Parchment Thirty-five Centuries Old—Jacob’s Well—Its + Present Appearance—The Tomb of Joseph—The Scene of Jacob’s + Dream—The Philistines’ Raid,........<a href="#link355">...355</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXVIII—FROM DAMASCUS TO JAFFA.—INCIDENTS OF THE TRIP. + </h3> + <p> + Once More in Damascus—Taking the “Short Route”—Starting + for Bcyrout—The Fountains of Damascus—Rain-Storm in the + Anti-Lebanon—Stora and its Model Hotel—Poetical Fancies—A + Compliment to Mine Host—The “Doubter” as a Rhymist—Climbing + Mount Lebanon—Tropic Suns and Arctic Snows—View from the + Summit—A Vision of Fairy-Land—Coming Down on the Double-Quick—In + Sight of the Mediterranean—Taking Ship for Jaffa—Sidon to a + Modern Tourist—Tyre—Jaffa—A Dangerous Roadstead,........<a + href="#link362">...362</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXIX—ENGAGING A DRAGOMAN.—OUR START FOR JERUSALEM. + </h3> + <p> + Views of Jaffa—A Queer-Looking City—The Oldest Inhabited Town + in the World—The Massacre of Jaffa—A Stain upon the Memory of + Napoleon—A Contract with a Dragoman—A Close Margin—The + Value of Credentials An Honest Arab—Getting into Saddle—An + American Colony—Their German Successors—The Fruits of the + Country—Generous Conduct of the “Doubter”—On the + Road to Jerusalem—A Night at Ramleh—In a Russian Convent—The + Gauntlet of Beggars—The Pest of the Road—Begging as a Fine Art—The + “Gate of the Glen”—Among the Mountain Passes—In + Sight of the Holy City,........<a href="#link370">...370</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXX—THE LIONS OF JERUSALEM.—THE TEMPLE, THE SEPULCHRE, + AND THE HOLY OF HOLIES. + </h3> + <p> + First Sights in Jerusalem—Appearance of the Streets—What the + “Doubter” Thought—A Change of Opinion—The Tower of + David—The Street of David—Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Scenes + Around It—Palace of the Knights of St. John—Via Dolorosa—Damascus + Gate—Walls of the Holy City—Visiting the Temple—The + Ilarem and Mosque of Omar—Visiting the Substructions—A Triple + Veneration—Place of Wailing—The Quarries—Remains of an + Ancient Bridge,........<a href="#link381">...381</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXI—AMONG THE MONKS. + </h3> + <p> + From the Gates of Jerusalem to Bethlehem—A Touching Incident—Tent-Life + at Bethlehem—The Milk Grotto—Its Miraculous Character—The + “Doubter” Expresses Himself—The Oldest Christian Church + in the World—Quarrelsome Monks—A Deadly Fight—Remarkable + Conduct of the “Doubter”—Pious Pilgrims—A + Christmas Festival—A Corpulent and Hospitable Monk—A Wearisome + Ceremony—The Monks in Costume—The Women of Bethlehem—A + Bevy of Beauties—Under Guard—Armenian Soldiers—Travelling + to Saba—Among the Monks—A Curious Convent—Armed against + the Bedouins,........<a href="#link398">...398</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXII—AMONG THE BEDOUINS.—TRAVELLING UNDER ESCORT, AND + LIVING IN TENTS. + </h3> + <p> + Sleeping under Tents—A Bedouin Encampment—A howl for “Backsheesh” + —A Queer Crowd—An Illusion Dispelled—An Eccentric + “Rooster”—Our Guard—A Little bit of Humbug—“Going + for” the “Doubter”—A Case of Blackmail—On + Guard against Robbers—A Protection from the Sheik—Thievery as + a Profession—Waters without Life—A Curious Bath—A Flood + of Gold—The “Doubter” in a Rain Storm—A Dangerous + Ford—A Nocturnal Mishap—An Atrocious Robbery—The “Doubter” + once more in Trouble—A Turkish Escort—Falling among Thieves—The + Judge’s Opinion on Shrinkage—The “Doubter” in the + Role of a Mummy,........<a href="#link413">...413</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXIII—THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, AND SHRINE OF THE CITY OF DAVID. + </h3> + <p> + A Snow-storm in Jerusalem—The “Doubter’s” Opinion + of Gum-Shoes—Kicked by a Vicious Horse—An Obliging Moslem—A + Guard of Turks—Bloodthirsty Christians—An Extraordinary Shrine—The + Angel’s Seat—The Quarrels of the Greek and Latin Monks—A + Spot of Marvels—The Soil Pressed by the Feet of Christ—Strange + Traditions—The Discovery of the True Cross—The Spot where + Peter Denied his Lord—The Scene of the Last Supper—What a + Wealthy Jew Did—The Man who was his own Father—The “Good + Thief”—Extracting Sixpence from the “Doubter”—A + Pertinacious Guide—Trying to Elude Pursuit—A Claim for Damages—Loading + Up with Oranges—Talking in Four Languages,........<a href="#link425">...425</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXIV—THE LAND OF PHARAOH.—THROUGH THE EGYPTIAN DESERT. + </h3> + <p> + In Sight of Egypt—A Light-house looming through the Fog—On the + Soil of the Pharaohs—An Invasion of Boatmen—Scenes in the + Streets of Port Said—Encore de “Backsheesh”—The + Great Suez Canal—Negotiations with a Cobbler—A Ludicrous + Situation—A Bootless Customer—Egyptian Jugglers—Going + through the Market—A Disagreeable Spectacle—A Pocket Steamer—Drinking + to Absent Friends—On the “Raging Canawl”—Sleeping + on Deck—A Sunrise in the Desert—On the Summit of the Isthmus—An + Onslaught by Arab Baggage-smashers,........<a href="#link440">...440</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXV—IN AND AROUND THE CITY OF THE CALIPHS. + </h3> + <p> + A Costly Breakfast—Ismailia—The Palace of the Khedive—On + an Egyptian Railroad Train—Rolling Through the Desert—The + Delta of the Nile, What Is It?—The Garden of Egypt—Cairo—The + Mighty Pyramids—Life at an Egyptian Hotel—Sights of the + Capital—Cairo of To-Day—Occidental Progress and Oriental + Conservatism—Burglaries and Other Modern Improvements—Cosmopolitan + Costumes—A Harem Taking an Airing—A Daring Robbery—The + Battle-Field of the Pyramids—Slaughter of the Mamelukes—Singular + Escape of Emir Bey,........<a href="#link446">...446</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXVI—AN INTERVIEW WITH THE KHEDIVE.—LIFE IN THE CITY OF + THE NILE. + </h3> + <p> + The Khedive, who is he?—A Hard-worked Pasha—His Personal + Habits—My Interview with Him—Adventures of an Old Hat—Arranging + Ourselves for a Royal Reception—An Eastern Monarch in a European + Dress—An Unimpeachable Costume—A Fluent Talker—Bedouin + Reporters—A Carriage from the Harem—Two Pair of Bright Eyes—Unveiling + the Women—A Talk with a Couple of Pigmies—A Nation of + Dwarf-Warriors—My Impressions of the Khedive,.........<a + href="#link457">...457</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXVII—STREET LIFE IN CAIRO. + </h3> + <p> + Cairo, Old and New—A Visit to the Ancient City—The Nilometer, + what is it? Measuring the Rise of the Nile—Moses in the Bulrushes—Tombs + of the Caliphs—An Egyptian Funeral—Curious Customs—“Crowding + the Mourners”—Water-carriers and their Ways—A Noisy + Tobacco-vender—Glimpses of the Arabian Nights—Among the + Bazaars—Street Scenes in Cairo—A Cavalcade of Donkeys—Hoaxing + a Donkey-boy—Amusing Spectacle—Putting Up a Ride at Auction—An + Arab Story—A Nation of Liars, and why?—Mosques of Cairo—Stones + from the Great Pyramid,........<a href="#link468">...468</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXVIII—THE BAZAARS OF CAIRO.—EGYPTIAN CURIOSITY SHOPS. + </h3> + <p> + More about the Bazaars—how they Sell Goods in Cairo—Furniture, + Fleas, and Filth—Trading in Pipe-stems and Coffee-pots—A Queer + Collection of Bric-a-Brac—Driving Close Bargains—A Specimen of + Yankee Shrewdness—A Miniature Blacksmith Shop—A Cloud of + Perfumes—Gems, Guns, and Damascus Blades—An Arabian Auction—At + the Egyptian Opera—The Dancing Girls of Cairo—The Ladies from + the Harem—A Scanty Costume—The Ballet of the “Prodigal + Son”—The Ladies of the Opera and their Life,........<a + href="#link478">...478</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XXXIX—ADVENTURES WITH A DONKEY.—A DAY AT THE RACES. + </h3> + <p> + A “Syce” what is he?—A Man with a Queer Dress and Large + Calves—A Gorgeous Turnout—An Escort of Eunuchs—Veiled + Beauties—A Flirtation and it Consequences—The Tale of a + Dropped Handkerchief—The Donkey as a National Beast—A Tricky + Brute and an Agile Driver—An Upset in the Mud—Astonishing the + Natives—A Specimen of Arabic Wit—Going to the Races—The + Grand Stand—A Dromedary Race—An Aristocratic Camel—The + Arrival of the Khedive—Starting Up the Dromedaries—Cutting an + Empress,........<a href="#link488">...488</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XL—THE PASHA AND HIS PRIESTS—EGYPTIAN LANGUAGE—SCHOOLS + AND RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. + </h3> + <p> + Egypt and her Relations with Turkey—The Army and Navy—Egyptian + History Boiled Down—The Reigning Family—Wonderful Relics—Mohammed + Ali as a Ruler—The Pasha and the Priests—Ordering a Wedding—Married + on Short Notice—Gratifying the Empress Eugenie—An Arab + School-room—A College with Nine Thousand Students—A + Jaw-Breaking Language—How to Indite an Epistle in Arabic—The + Caravan to Mecca—Going on a Pilgrimage—A Horrible Ceremony—Trampling + on Dervishes—The “Bride of the Nile”—Extraordinary + Customs,........<a href="#link499">...499</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLI—THE GREAT PYRAMIDS—IN THE KINGS’ BURIAL + CHAMBERS. + </h3> + <p> + A Visit to the great Pyramids—A Fellah not a Fellow—Sakkiehs + and Shadoofs—A File of Camels and Donkeys—A Striking Spectacle—A + Horde of Arabs—Troublesome Customers—The great Pyramid—How + we Climbed It—A Giant Stairway—Dimensions Extraordinary—The + Lost Arts—Standing on the Summit—The Judge’s Predicament—Arab + Cormorants—What we Saw from the Top of the great Pyramid—Wonderful + Contrasts—Performance of an Arabian Acrobat—A Race down the + Pyramid Stairs—A Perilous Descent—Penetrating the Interior—The + King’s Chamber—A Dusty Receptacle of Coffins—The Sphinx—A + Mysterious Statue,........<a href="#link513">...513</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLII—A VOYAGE UP THE NILE.—THE MYSTERIES OF EGYPTIAN ART + AND WORSHIP. + </h3> + <p> + Up the Nile in a Sail-Boat—Starting for the Cataracts—Advantages + of a Dragoman—A Tricky Lot—Frauds on Travellers—Our + Party—Rather Cosmopolitan—Getting Ahead of Mr. Cook—Our + Little Game, and How it Worked—A Bath with Spectators—Decidedly + Cool—Getting Aground—A Picturesque Landscape—Last + Glimpse of the Pyramids—Spending Night on Shore—Among the + Ruins of Memphis—The Wonders of Egyptian Art—What Marrielte + Bey Discovered—Laying Bare a Mysterious Sepulchre—Ancient + Egyptian Worship—Sacred Bulls and Beetles—A History Written in + Stone—Bricks Made by the Israelites,........<a href="#link529">...529</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLIII—LIFE ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE.—COPTS, JUGGLERS, AND + THIEVES.—AMUSING EXPERIENCES. + </h3> + <p> + Through an Arab Village—Creating a Sensation—The “Doubter” + Alarmed—The Professor Perpetrates a Hoax—The Egyptian Saratoga—An + Oriental Post-office—A Queer Town—Specimens of Ancient Art—A + Wooden Statue Three Thousand Years Old—A Coptic Convent—“Backsheesh, + Howadji!”—Carrying Money in their Mouths—Sturdy Beggars—An + Expert Swimmer—The Copts, who are they? Skilful Swindlers—Sugar + Mills on the Banks of the Nile—Egyptian Jugglers—A + Snake-Charmer—Adroit Thieves—A Melancholy Experience in + Donkey-riding,.......<a href="#link542">...542</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLIV—ADVENTURES IN UPPER EGYPT.—FUN AND FROLIC WITH THE + NATIVES. + </h3> + <p> + Siout, the Capital of Upper Egypt—The Pasha’s Palace—An + Egyptian Market Day—A Swift Boat—Going the rounds on a Donkey—Town + Scenes—The Bazaars—Buying a Donkey—Tinkers, Peddlers, + and Cobblers at work—A Curiosity Shop—Three Card Monte in the + Land of the Pharaohs—Fighting the Tiger—The Professor takes a + Hand—An Ignominious Defeat—A Doleful Tale—A River where + the Wind is always Fair—The Temple and Tablet of Abydos—“Backsheesh” + as a Medicine—Arab Villages in an Inundation—The Garden of the + Valley—Fun with the Natives—A constant resource for a + Practical Joker—Scrambling for Money—A Severe Joke,.........<a + href="#link554">...554</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLV—THE DANCING GIRLS OF KENEH.—THE TREASURES OF + DENDERAH. + </h3> + <p> + The Dates and Dancing Girls of Keneh—The Alma and the Ghawazee—The + Dalilahs of Cairo—Going to the Dance Hall—An Outlandish + Orchestra—The Drapery of the Dancers—The Cairo Wriggle—Curious + Posturing—A Weird Scene-Dress and Undress—Miracles of Motion—A + Fête at the German Consulate—Models for Painters and Sculptors—Arab + and Nubian Nymphs—The Temple of Denderah—History Hewn in Stone—Cleopatra + and her Portrait—The Fatal Asp—A Bit of Doggerel—The + Coins of Old Egypt—The Professor’s Bargain—Digging for + Treasure—Arrival at Luxor—Taking in Strangers,.........<a + href="#link568">...568</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLVI—LUXOR, THE CITY OF GIANTS—AMONG THE MUMMIES OF + ANCIENT THEBES. + </h3> + <p> + Luxor on the Site of Ancient Thebes—A City with a Hundred Gates—Enjoying + a Consul’s Hospitality—An American Citizen of African Descent—A + Dignified Rhinoceros—Karnak—A City of Wonders—Promenading + in an Avenue of Sphinxes—A Gigantic Temple—Monster Obelisks—A + Story in Stone—A Statue Weighing Nine Hundred Tons—The Sitting + Colossi—A Singing Statue—Mysteries of Priestcraft—Lunching + in the Tomb of Rameses—A Wonderful Treasure—How They Made + Mummies—A Curious Process—The “Doubter” and the + Mummy Sellers—The Judge Comes to Grief,........<a href="#link585">...585</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLVII—A VISIT TO A HAREM IN UPPER EGYPT.—LIFE AMONG THE + NUBIANS. + </h3> + <p> + A Visit to a Harem—Among the Daughters of the Nile—How they + Looked and What was Done—Painted Eyelids—The Use of Henna—A + Minute Inspection of Garments—Mustapha Agar “At Home”—Arab + Astonishment—A Dinner <i>a l’Arabe</i>—Fingers vs. Forks—An + Array of Queer Dishes—Novel Refreshment—Dancing Girls—Truck + and Decker at Luxor—More “Ghawazee,” Pipes and Coffee—“A + Love of a Donkey”—Song of Arabs—Arab Cruelty—A + Nation of Stoics—Endurance of Pain—Among the Nubians—Ostriches, + Arrows and Battle-Axes—A Nubian Dress—A Very Small Dressmaker’s + Bill—A Scanty Wardrobe,........<a href="#link600">...600</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLVIII—CAMEL-RIDING.—ADVENTURES AMONG THE NUBIANS. + </h3> + <p> + How they made the Royal Coffins—Splitting Blocks of Stones with + Wooden Wedges—An Ingenious Device—A Ride on a Camel—A + Beast indulging in Familiarities—Lunching on Trowsers—Mounting + in the Saddle—Curious Sensation—An Interesting Brute—A + Camel Solo—Sitting in a Dish—Camel-Riding in a Gymnastic Point + of View—Secondary Effects—Nubian Ferry-Boats—P. T. and + his Paint-Pot—Labors of an Enthusiastic American—Mr. Tucker on + his Travels—“A Human Donkey”—Visiting the Cataract—Paying + Toll to a Sheik—The Professor and his Camel—Crocodiles of the + Nile—Starting Back to Cairo,.......<a href="#link612">...612</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP XLIX—IN THE SLAVE COUNTRY—SIR SAMUEL W. BAKER’S + EXPEDITION. + </h3> + <p> + The Egyptian Slave Trade—How carried on—An Army of Kidnappers—A + Slave King—Frightful Scenes—Sir Samuel Baker’s + Expedition—A Shrewd Move—Breech-loaders as Civilizing Agents—A + Missionary Outfit—Starting for the Slave Country—Reluctant + Allies—The “Forty Thieves”—Running against a Snag—The + Sacred Egyptian Flower—The Lotos-Eaters, Who were They?—The + New York Lotophagi—The Papyrus or Vegetable Paper—Capturing a + Cargo of Slaves—The Plague of Flies—A few more “likely + Niggers”—Marrying by Wholesale—A Fight with the Natives—The + Result of the Expedition,........<a href="#link623">...623</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP L—SUNSET IN THE ORIENT.—VOYAGING DOWN THE NILE. + </h3> + <p> + An Egyptian Sunset—A Gorgeous Spectacle—The Sky that bends + above the Nile—Singular Atmospheric Phenomena—A Picture for an + Artist—Shadows from History—Napoleon and the Pyramids—Our + Voyage Back to Cairo—Scenes by the Way—“Cook’s + Tourists”—An Amusing Sight—Night-Fall on the Nile—A + Flame of Rockets—“What does it Mean?”—The Marriage + of the Khedive’s Son—Feminine Disappointment—Jumping + Ashore—Aboard of Donkeys—Gustave’s Somersault—Practical + Sympathy—In the Pasha’s Garden—A Magnificent Sight—The + Wedding Pageant—Elbowing an Arab Crowd—A Pyrotechnic + Shower,.......<a href="#link637">...637</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP LI—THE WEDDING OF THE KHEDIVE’S SON.—ENJOYING A + MONARCH’S HOSPITALITY. + </h3> + <p> + High Jinks in the Egyptian Capital—Dancing Horses—Arabian + Blooded Steeds—Treading the “Light Fantastic Toe”—Bedouin + Riders—The Mysterious Cage—Egyptian Prima Donnas—A Spice + of the Arabian Nights—A Silken Palace—Headquarters of the + Khedive—Thoughtless Intruders upon Royalty—A Glimpse of the + Princes Royal—The Heir of the Throne of Egypt—His Appearance, + Dress, and Character—A Cordial Invitation—Partaking of the + Khedive’s Hospitality—A Turkish Comedy—A Free Lunch—End + of the Festival,..........*** + </p> + <h3> + CHAP LII—WOMEN AMONG THE MOHAMMEDANS.—LIFE IN THE HAREM. + </h3> + <p> + Polygamy Among the Turks and Arabs—A Full-Stocked Harem—Unveiling + the Women—Romantic Adventure—A Brief Flirtation—The + “Light of the Harem”—Love at First Sight—how + Egyptian Women Dress—Some Hints to the Ladies—Wearing Trowsers—Robes, + <i>Caftans</i>, and Peaked Shoes—Rainbow Colors—How they Dress + their Hair—Crowned with Coins—A Walking Jewelry Shop—The + Pretty Egyptienne Orange Girl—Street Costume—Paris Fashions in + the Khedive’s Harem—Beauties Riding Donkeys Man Fashion—How + they Go Shopping—Animated Bales of Dry Goods—Black Eyes in a + Bundle of Silks—Marriage Brokers—How they Dispose of their + Daughters in the East—A Turkish Courtship—A Donkey Driver + Gives an Opinion—The Wedding and the Honeymoon—Divorces in + Egypt—An Easy Process—Many-Wived Men,........<a href="#link650">...650</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP LIII—WINTER ON THE NILE.—THE KHAMSEEN AND ITS EFFECTS.—BEDOUIN + LIFE. + </h3> + <p> + Winter in Egypt—A soft and balmy air—A Rainstorm on the Nile—An + Asylum for Invalids—The Month of Flowers—The “Khamseen,” + What is it?—A blast as from a Furnace—Singular effects of the + South Wind—A Sun like Copper and a Sky like Brass—A cloud of + Sand—Eating Dirt—Fleeing from the Khamseen—How the + Laboring Classes Live—Hungry but not Cold—Oriental Houses—An + Excursion to Heliopolis—Habits of the Bedouins—A Fastidious + People—Life in a Bedouin Encampment—Among the Obelisks—How + they were brought Five Hundred Miles—The Madonna-Tree,.........<a + href="#link667">...667</a> + </p> + <h3> + CHAP LIV—LAST DAYS IN EGYPT. + </h3> + <p> + The Last Stroll around the Mooskee—Talking to the Donkey-Boys and + Dragomen—A Queer Lot—A Pertinacious Customer—The Judge’s + Expedient—A Little Humbug—Rich American Tourists “in a + Horn”—The Dragoman’s Salutation “Sing Sing!”—Getting + Rid of a Nuisance—Buying Keepsakes—Out of the Desert into a + Garden—Curiosities for Farmers—A Mohammedan Festival—Curious + Sights—Snake Charmers—How they do it—Music-Loving + Reptiles—On an Egyptian Railroad—Pompey’s Pillar—A + Ludicrous Accident—Alexandria, its Sights and Scenes—Climbing + Pompey’s Pillar—A Daring Sailor—An Arab Swindle—Going + on Board the Steamer—Farewell to Egypt,.........<a href="#link678">...678</a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /><a name="linkimage-0004" id="linkimage-0004"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5041.jpg" alt="5041 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5041.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + BACKSHEESH. + </h3> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">033</span><a name="link033" id="link033"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0005" id="linkimage-0005"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0043.jpg" alt="0043 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0043.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <h3> + “B A C K S H E E S H.” + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I—STEAMER-LIFE ON THE ATLANTIC. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Leaving Home—Our Pilgrimage Begun—Sights and Scenes on Deck—“Life + on the Ocean Wave”—Out at Sea—The Traveller’s + Little World—Feeling Queer Inside!—Delights of Sea-sickness—Reminiscences + of a Jolly Old Boy—What became of the Judge—Bringing up his + Liver!—Too Big for his Berth—Sleeping in a Second-hand Coffin—A + Race with a Lemon—The Leg of Mutton Dance—Eccentric Conduct of + a Boiled Turkey—Too Much Sauce!—“Dressing” the + Judge’s Trowsers—Alone at Sea—A Funny Conspiracy—Fate + of a Timid Man—Confidence Betrayed—The Young Man from the + Country—His Wisdom and his Woes—Drinking Petroleum—The + Judge Turns Joker—Who Owns the Ocean Steamers.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">N</span>EVER have I sailed + out of New-York harbor on a finer day than when, in the spring of 1873, I + started on that pilgrimage of which this book is to be the record. + </p> + <p> + It was late in April, the sky was clear, and the atmosphere had that balmy + softness which we find in the tropics much oftener than in more northern + latitudes. Looking up the Hudson and down the widening estuary toward + Staten Island, one could see a delicate haze that skirted the horizon and + faintly mellowed the lines that otherwise might have presented a + suggestion of harsh<span class="pagenum">034</span><a name="link034" + id="link034"></a>ness. The picturesque life of the harbor was at its + fullest activity; ocean and river steamers were moving here and there, and + white-winged ships coming home from long voyages or going out to battle + with the winds and waves, were in the grasp of powerful tugs that fumed + and fretted as they ploughed the waters with their helpless charges. + Thousands of smaller craft dotted and stippled the beautiful bay which is + the pride and glory of the commercial metropolis of America; and the + forest of masts hanging over the wharves at the city’s edge spread + its leafless limbs in liberal profusion. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0006" id="linkimage-0006"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0044.jpg" alt="0044 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0044.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + There was the usual crowd of friends to bid farewell to our passengers; + and the parting cheer, as we steamed out from our dock, rang in our ears + long after the spire of Trinity had disappeared, and the protruding front + of Castle Garden had been lost in the distance. There was only the + gentlest breeze to ruffle the water as we pushed oceanward and caught + sight of the blue line of sea and sky that formed the eastern horizon. We + watched the sun declining in the west, bringing the Highlands of Neversink + into bold relief; our steady progress left the land each moment more and + more indistinct, till, at last, day and land faded <span class="pagenum">035</span><a + name="link035" id="link035"></a>away together. We were out on the ocean, + and the world was become to us small indeed. + </p> + <p> + An Atlantic trip is not considered in these days a very serious affair. + There are persons who persist in speaking of the ocean as a ferry, with no + more terror than the North or East River. It may be a good joke to call it + a ferry, but it is rather a solemn joke when you have been at sea a couple + of weeks and have experienced a few gales. + </p> + <p> + The day we sailed the water was as smooth as a mill-pond, and it remained + so for about thirty-six hours. In the room next to me there was a judge + from New Jersey; a jolly, good-natured old boy, whose face was a pleasure + to contemplate. The first day out, he told me he was agreeably surprised + with the ocean, and that he should have brought his wife along if he had + supposed it would be so comfortable. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0007" id="linkimage-0007"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8045.jpg" alt="8045 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8045.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + “People do exaggerate so,” said he, “that you never know + what to believe. They have told me that the ocean was terribly rough, and + that I should be very sick; but I see it was all a mistake Why, I have + seen it worse than this going from New York to Staten Island.” + </p> + <p> + I assured the Judge that some of the passengers might have been lying to + him, and that the ocean was very much slandered. Next day it came on to + blow, and by midnight we were tossing as if a lot of giants had put the + ship in a blanket and were having some first-class fun. She rocked and + pitched magnificently, and a liberal portion of the passengers were laid + out with <i>mal-du-mer</i>. + </p> + <p> + And the Judge! I paid him a visit when the storm was at its worst, and his + condition was such as to rouse in my breast mingled sentiments of pleasure + and sorrow. He was lying on the sofa, and his right hand convulsively + clutched a basin into which he was pouring the contents of his stomach. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">036</span><a name="link036" id="link036"></a>"What a + fool a man is to come to sea,” he gasped in the intervals of his + wretchedness. “I was an idiot not to have gone travelling in + Pennsylvania, instead of coming out here. I would give a thousand dollars + to be safe back in New York.” + </p> + <p> + I endeavored to console him, but he would not be comforted. While I poured + soothing words into his ear, and brandy down his throat, the ship gave an + extra lurch that brought a fresh discharge from the Judge’s mouth. + Something dark and solid fell into the basin, and as the Judge + contemplated it, his face assumed an expression of horror. + </p> + <p> + “I will be hanged,” said he, “if I have not thrown up a + piece of my liver; just look at it; everything inside of me will be up + next. In fifteen minutes you can look for my toe-nails.” + </p> + <p> + He sank back fainting, but brightened up a little when I told him that + what he supposed to be his liver was nothing more than a piece of corned + beef which he swallowed at dinner and his stomach had failed to digest. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0008" id="linkimage-0008"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9046.jpg" alt="9046 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9046.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He grew better next day, but persisted in declaring the ocean a humbug, + and said that when he once got back, nothing should tempt him to come + abroad again. + </p> + <p> + People are differently affected by the ocean. Some are never sea-sick, + while others can never go on the water without being laid up. I have known + persons who kept their rooms an entire voyage; they went below when + leaving land on one side, and did not come out again till it was sighted + on the other. Women are the weaker vessels, when it comes to an ocean + experience, however strong they may be in domestic griefs and family jars. + In sea-sickness, they fall much sooner than men, and are slower to recover + their appetites. Children recover more quickly than adults, and sometimes + they are well and running about long be<span class="pagenum">037</span><a + name="link037" id="link037"></a>fore their parents are able to get away + with a cup of tea or a cracker. + </p> + <p> + To those who contemplate going to sea, I have a piece of advice to offer + that may save them the pangs of the marine malady. + </p> + <p> + The night before you are to sail, take a blue pill—ten grains—just + before going to bed, and when you get up in the morning take, the first + thing, a dose of citrate of magnesia. Then eat your breakfast and go on + board, and I will wager four to one, that you will not be sea-sick a + moment, though the water may be as rough as an Arkansas traveller’s + manners. + </p> + <p> + The above prescription was given to me several years ago, and I have + rigidly followed it every time I have gone to sea since I received it. It + has saved me from sea-sickness, and it has been of equal value to many + others, to whom I have given it. I have published it several times for the + benefit of the human race, and I think it worth giving again. + </p> + <p> + Sea-sickness is a dreadful feeling, and anything that can be expected to + prevent it is worth trying. I remember the first time I was sea-sick, I + wanted to be thrown overboard, and didn’t care what became of me. If + the ship had sunk beneath me I should have been glad instead of sorry; and + if the captain had threatened to tie me up and give me forty lashes, I + should not have made the slightest opposition to the execution of his + threat. If the Koh-i-noor diamond had been lying ten yards from me, and + had been offered me on condition that I should pick it up, I couldn’t + have stirred an inch to get it. The death of a maiden aunt, from whom I + had great expectations, would have failed to elate me, and the refusal of + my hand by an heiress to a million would have caused me no regret. Nothing + can bring perfect despair so readily as sea-sickness, and make its victim + ready and willing to die. Somebody has said that in the first hour of his + sea-sickness he feared he should die; but in the second hour he was afraid + he should not; and that is pretty nearly the experience of every sufferer. + </p> + <p> + You have heard of the man who wanted to thrash the fellow who wrote + “A Life on the Ocean Wave.” I think there were several on + board our ship who agreed with him, and would bear a hand to assist him. + Somebody has written—and his head was not unlevel—<span + class="pagenum">038</span><a name="link038" id="link038"></a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + “The praises of the Ocean grand, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + ‘Tis very well to sing on land; + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + ‘Tis very fine to hear them carolled + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + By Thomas Campbell or Childe Harold— + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + But sad indeed to see that Ocean, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + From east to west, in wild commotion.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + Though I did not suffer from sea-sickness, I did not escape considerable + annoyance and discomfort. Anybody who knows me can testify that I am not a + dwarf, that I stand over six feet, and have a proportionate breadth of + beam. My berth was about an inch shorter than its occupant, and when I + tried to lie flat on my back I took up all the width of it. I couldn’t + straighten out, because the berth was too short; I couldn’t lie on + my side through fear of being rocked out; and I couldn’t lie face + down, for the same reason that I couldn’t lie face up. Taken for all + in all, the room was the most uncomfortable I ever slept in on board ship. + When I went into my “little bed,” I felt as though I was in a + second-hand coffin, originally made for a smaller man, and I dreamed of + this state of things so often that I considered the night had gone wrong + without such a slumbering fancy. The rolling of the ship made it awkward + to put on my clothes and perform other toilet duties; and if I went + through preparations for breakfast without a tumble or two, I considered + myself lucky. + </p> + <p> + One morning the steward brought me a lemon. It is a very good practice at + sea to swallow the juice of a lemon half an hour before breakfast, in + order to clear the stomach and remove any tendencies to biliousness. He + put the lemon on my sofa, and I crawled out of bed just as he retreated + and closed the door. + </p> + <p> + Well; the ship made a lurch and sent me head foremost upon the sofa, as + though I had been shot from a mortar. With some difficulty I picked myself + up, and braced long enough to get a tumbler and make ready to squeeze the + lemon. Just as I reached for it the ship went the other way, and the lemon + rolled from the sofa and under the berth. I went on hands and knees in a + humble attitude to reach for it; over went the ship just as I extended my + arm under the berth; my body followed my arm, and my legs followed my + body, and it was no easy matter to get up again. While I was getting to + rights, the old craft lurched the other <span class="pagenum">039</span><a + name="link039" id="link039"></a>way, and my lemon shot across the floor + like a rat pursued by a terrier, and took up a hiding-place again under + the sofa. + </p> + <p> + Then I went for it with the same result as before. Just as I put my hand + upon it there was a movement in the lemon-market, and the article I was + pursuing traversed the floor and sought the farthest corner under the + berth once more. + </p> + <p> + About five minutes we kept up that circus; sometimes I was ahead, and + sometimes the lemon, and both were pretty well exhausted by the time the + race was over. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0009" id="linkimage-0009"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8049.jpg" alt="8049 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8049.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + At last I took him on the fly, and made a short stop; lost my balance and + went down in a corner among my clothes. Then I gathered myself together + and managed to cut the lemon open and to squeeze it. I lost half the juice + in a lurch of the ship, just as I raised the glass to my lips; and in my + hurry to save what was left I swallowed seeds enough to start a + respectable lemon orchard. I think an artist could have made a series of + interesting sketches had he witnessed the race between the lemon and me. + </p> + <p> + Dinner has a good deal of fear in it if the ship happens to be rolling + nicely. Racks are put on the tables to keep things from falling off, and + sometimes the rocking is so bad that even the racks are not altogether + satisfactory. In front of you is a rack just wide enough to hold your + plate, and, when you are taking soup, the edge of it is just even with the + rack. If the ship makes up her mind she can tip your plate so that the + soup will flow out into your lap, and after doing that she will tilt the + other way and leave the side next to you quite dry. Your tumbler will + assert the correctness of its name in more ways than one, unless it is + very firmly placed and wedged in where it cannot fetch away. + </p> + <p> + The best way at such times is to hold your soup-plate in your hand and + fasten your tumbler in the rack where the glasses are kept. Sometimes a + joint of meat or a boiled turkey will leap <span class="pagenum">040</span><a + name="link040" id="link040"></a>from its plate and go off the table as + easily as a live turkey could make the same movement. My friend, the + Judge, caught a turkey in his lap one day, and his trowsers were so + covered with oyster sauce that they might have been served up without + serious trouble. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0010" id="linkimage-0010"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9050.jpg" alt="9050 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9050.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + A New York matron was likewise honored with a visit of a leg of mutton, + and I narrowly escaped from a dish of <i>blanc mange</i> that seemed + determined to pay me a complimentary call. The desk where I used to write + had a remarkable tendency to change its angle at every moment, and if my + old desk in New York were to conduct itself thus, I should ask what it had + been drinking. + </p> + <p> + Day after day we steamed along, sometimes getting a little assistance from + our sails, but more frequently depending upon steam alone. Out of New York + we were accompanied by a German steamer, but we soon lost sight of her in + consequence of a divergence in our courses. Almost every day we saw + steamers and sailing-ships, and sometimes we had three or four of them in + sight. We were directly ports of England and America, and the wonder is, + not that we saw so many vessels, but that so few of them came in sight. + Our engines were not stopped after we left New York till we arrived at + Queenstown, where our mails and some of our passengers were landed. + </p> + <p> + Time hangs heavily on one’s hands at sea. The first day out you are + uneasy, if you are not sea-sick; you try to read and you can’t; you + sit in one place awhile, then in another, then in another; and then you go + somewhere else. You get over a page at a time; you shut and open your book + a dozen times in an hour, and are as discontented as a weaning calf. You + sit down to games of cards, but don’t feel like playing; you go + forward and aft, and aft and forward, and really don’t know what to + do on the track between the great <span class="pagenum">041</span><a + name="link041" id="link041"></a>with yourself. If the weather is fair you + go on deck, and then you go below; and then on deck again. You wish + yourself on shore, and you fall to counting the hours that must elapse + before the voyage will end. You don’t feel like making the + acquaintance of anybody, and nobody wants to make yours; and so the day + goes on till you turn into your bunk and try to sleep. In the morning you + rise feeling about as amiable as a bear with a sore head, though your + nerves are more quiet than they were. Then you begin to make + acquaintances, and in a couple of days the passengers know each other + pretty fairly; enough, at any rate, for all practical purposes. + </p> + <p> + By the fourth day you have the peculiarities of everybody down to a dot; + and about this time the spirit of mischief prevails. There are sure to be + some waggish passengers ready for any kind of fun, and sometimes they are + rather merciless in it. If there is a timid man on board they talk + accident to him, and if there is a credulous man on board they fill him + with yarns of the most frightful character. There was a youth on board + from one of the eastern states, and he was constantly in fear lest the + ship should sink. Two of the wags talked of accident till his hair stood + on end and he dared not go to bed at night. At the table where the Judge + and I were seated, there were two superannuated Englishmen who had been to + New-York to visit some friends, and were going home without seeing + anything in America outside Manhattan Island. I fear they had strange + opinions of our country before they got back. + </p> + <p> + They listened to the talk, and were evidently taking notes of what they + heard. Their information may be known by the following sample. + </p> + <p> + While we were at lunch one day the conversation happened to turn on + petroleum. The Judge addressing one of the jokers who was known as “the + Major,” said very gravely: “That was a singular practice + during the war, giving each man a pint of crude petroleum to drink before + going into battle.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes;” the Major replied, “but it paid very well at + first, as the men fought like tigers in consequence. But we had to abandon + it before the end of the war.” + </p> + <p> + “Really now, you don’t mean that your soldiers drank that + abominable stuff?” said one of the astonished Britons. <span + class="pagenum">042</span><a name="link042" id="link042"></a>"Oh, yes,” + said the Judge, his solemnity increasing, “they grew very fond of + it, and many of them deserted when they were deprived of it.” + </p> + <p> + “Why was it given up?” asked Briton number two. + </p> + <p> + “It was found’,” the Major explained, “that many + of the men died of spontaneous combustion in consequence of drinking this + stuff. In the case of smokers it was specially dangerous, as a man’s + breath might take fire while he was lighting his pipe. One of our best + regiments—the 49th Buffaloes—was almost annihilated by + petroleum. It was during the ‘Seven Days’ Fight’ near + Richmond. They had been in action continuously, and, for more than a week, + quadruple rations of petroleum were served to them, so that they were + saturated with it. On the last day of the battle, as they were drawn up in + line for inspection, one of the men struck a match just for fun. His + breath caught, and so did that of the man on each side of him. In half a + minute the flame ran along the line, and in less time than it takes me to + tell it, half the regiment were on fire. Some had presence of mind to fall + on their faces when they saw the flash, and these were the only ones that + were saved.” + </p> + <p> + “Dear me! how strange!” + </p> + <p> + “Yes;” the Major added, “and sometimes prisoners in the + hands of the enemy were set on fire by the inhuman officers who wished to + witness their terrible sufferings. We found the use of petroleum as a + beverage was in various ways an injury to the army, so we gave it up.” + </p> + <p> + This wonderful story was heard with apparent confidence by our fellow + travellers, and I have no doubt that it was told round British firesides + in perfect good faith. The Judge and his friends talked of snow-storms a + hundred feet deep, of potatoes in South Carolina as large as + flour-barrels, of oysters in Texas that sing and play the piano, and of a + horse in Cincinnati that could swear and chew tobacco. Wonderful + adventures in all parts of the land were minutely described, and if the + voyage had lasted a week longer, and the stories could all be collected + and published, they could give Baron Munchausen several points and beat + him. The wags described bloody encounters of men in the West, and left the + impression that anywhere beyond the Hudson River a <span class="pagenum">043</span><a + name="link043" id="link043"></a>person who by accident brushes against the + elbow of another is shot down immediately. + </p> + <p> + In the same spirit of mischief they tortured the timid youth till he did + not know what he was about. He was not so good a subject as one with whom + I crossed the Atlantic some years before; but he did very well. The + principal joke played upon him was to talk of accidents when he was at + hand. + </p> + <p> + The other man of whom I speak—the one of several years ago—was + the victim of a regular conspiracy. Some of the passengers arranged to + talk in his presence of nothing but accidents; no matter what topic they + were discussing, when he came near they shifted to accidents at once. When + they ran out of true stories they resorted to fiction, and the fiction was + worse by far than the fact. + </p> + <p> + He—the victim—used to remain up until sent down below by the + officers, and he generally slept with a life preserver beside him. One day + when some boxes and cans were being thrown overboard, his tormentors got + up a story that the barometer had been falling about an inch an hour, and + that a terrible gale was expected. The Captain feared that we could not + live through it, and had thrown out these sealed boxes, containing + duplicates of the government dispatches and other important papers, in the + hope that some more fortunate vessel might find them, in case we were + destroyed. + </p> + <p> + Jack, as we called him, was in the greatest terror. He went below, and + remained shut in his cabin for the rest of the day and evening. As no gale + came, it was explained that we passed it and just avoided its track, and + they pointed out a line of dark clouds on the horizon as the probable + course of the gale. He was satisfied and became more cheerful, though his + general terror did not cease. + </p> + <p> + When we approached the end of our voyage it was night, and it became + necessary to throw up a rocket. The officer then in charge of the deck + said to the jokers: + </p> + <p> + “If you want some fun with your friend, get him forward near the + smoke-stack, and as close as possible to the steam-pipe. When the engine + stops they will instantly let off steam, and just as it starts I will send + up a couple of rockets.” <span class="pagenum">044</span><a + name="link044" id="link044"></a>They got Jack forward and engaged him in + conversation. His back was about two feet from the pipe, and the same + distance from the rockets. The steam was shut off from the engine and + turned into the pipe with a tremendous roar. At the same instant the + rockets let go with a tremendous crash that anybody who has stood near a + flying rocket can appreciate, and the crowd gave a yell that would have + excited the envy of a band of Indians. + </p> + <p> + Jack made one bound aft, and his friends had to run after him lest he + would jump overboard. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0011" id="linkimage-0011"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9054.jpg" alt="9054 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9054.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He went into his cabin and did not come out for an hour or more. But when + he did reappear, he was freshly alarmed. The steamer had been stopped for + a sounding, and that noisy piece of machinery—the donkey engine—was + put in operation to haul in the lead-line. All was still, until suddenly + the donkey engine started with its clatter. Jack was dozing at the time, + and the noise roused him. He knew that something was wrong, and with + nothing on but his shirt he darted to the deck. It took some time to quiet + him and persuade him to go where his scanty costume would be more + appropriate. Necessarily the space on an ocean-steamer is very much + restricted. The ordinary sleeping-rooms are about six feet square, or at + most six feet by seven; and in this space two, or sometimes three or four, + persons are expected to spend their nights and keep their superfluous + garments and light baggage. + </p> + <p> + When <span class="pagenum">045</span><a name="link045" id="link045"></a>there + are few passengers each can have a room to himself; but when there is + anything like a “rush,” there must be more or less doubling + up. Steamship agents will give you a room to yourself on payment of half + an extra fare, and many persons avail themselves of the opportunity. + Others who desire seclusion, but suffer from shallowness of purse, prefer + to make friends with the purser or chief steward, and thereby secure what + they wish for. No general rule can be laid down for this, and I leave each + man to act for himself. + </p> + <p> + Once, when I crossed the Atlantic, I exulted in finding myself alone in a + room well situated in the middle of the ship. While I was rejoicing about + the matter, I was thrown into consternation by the steward, who entered + and said: + </p> + <p> + “There is a young man in the room close by the screw, and he doesn’t + like it, and is going to ask the captain to put him in with you.” + </p> + <p> + “William,” said I solemnly—for his name was William—“William, + you know how delighted I should be to have him here. But, William, do you + know that I have fits, nightmare, delirium tremens, small-pox and several + other maladies, and that I am the most ill-natured man on board the ship? + And do you know, William, that I have half a sovereign for <i>you</i> if + that adolescent gentleman stays away?” + </p> + <p> + William smiled, said nothing, stuck his tongue in his cheek and departed. + Ten minutes later he returned, bringing a broad grin on his face as a + prefix to the information: + </p> + <p> + “The young feller will stay where he is, sir, and I hope you’ll + remember the half-sov’ at the end of the voyage.” + </p> + <p> + What William said about me to the occupant of the room near the screw, I + am unable to say; but I observed that the youth shunned my society, and + consequently fear that he had formed an unfavorable opinion. But I gave + the promised money to the steward “<i>sans peur et sans reproche</i>.” + </p> + <p> + The dangers of the Atlantic voyage are of little moment, and no more to be + dreaded than those of a journey by rail from New York to San Francisco. I + refer to the unavoidable dangers, such as gales, collisions with wrecks + and similar accidents that human foresight cannot prevent. Accidents like + the loss of the <i>Atlantic</i> <span class="pagenum">046</span><a + name="link046" id="link046"></a>and the <i>Schiller</i>, and similar + disasters, are to be attributed to the bad management, either of the + company, or of the ship’s officers, or of both, and do not come + under the head of unavoidable calamities. With good management on all + sides, and proper inspection of ships, a journey across the ocean is as + safe as a rail journey of the same length, and in some respects more so. I + have been assured by men familiar with the history of steam navigation + that the casualties are not more numerous in proportion to the numbers + travelling, than on American railways. + </p> + <p> + The reason why an accident on the water is more dreadful than on land is + twofold. In the first place, the number of persons killed or wounded in a + railway accident is always a small percentage of those on the train. Take + Carr’s Rock, Angola, Richmond Switch, or any other terrible disaster + by rail, and the number killed was a great deal smaller than the number of + those who escaped unhurt. But a marine accident may destroy the life of + every one on board the ship. This has been the case on several occasions. + The steamers <i>President, City of Glasgow, Pacific, City of Boston, + Tempest, United Kingdom, Ismailia, and Trojan</i> were lost at sea, and + never heard from. Two steamers on the American, and one, I believe, on the + English coast, were wrecked with all on board; and one steamer was wrecked + near Moville, from which only a single man escaped. Most of these steamers + were lost on their eastward trips, when their passenger lists were much + smaller than if they had been going westward. + </p> + <p> + Another thing that makes an ocean accident terrible, is the difficulty of + escape. If you are overturned in a railway car, you fall upon solid earth, + but in an accident on the ocean, you have nothing but water to stand upon—a + very poor support indeed. The boats of a steamship are not sufficient to + hold her passengers and crew, as a general thing, and in case of an + accident on a westward trip, when the steerage is crowded with emigrants, + the loss of life may be enormous. On board the steamer which carried me + over the Atlantic there were eight boats, with a capacity altogether of + not more than four hundred persons, under the most favorable + circumstances, supposing all of them launched and the weather fine. On her + westward trips she frequently carries twelve hundred steerage passengers, + and her crew and <span class="pagenum">047</span><a name="link047" + id="link047"></a>cabin passenger list would probably bring the complement + up to very nearly fourteen hundred. In case the steamer sinks at sea, + there would be a thousand persons who could not possibly find places in + the boats! There is not a ship carrying emigrants that has boat room + enough for half her passengers on a westward trip, and I doubt if any of + them could even carry away a fourth of their complement. When your ship + goes down at sea you may consider yourself fortunate if you do not go down + with her. + </p> + <p> + It is a burning shame that nearly all the steam lines crossing the + Atlantic, are in the hands of other nationalities than ours. It is not + generally known that two of the English lines are mainly owned in New + York, only enough of the stock being held abroad to enable the ships to + sail under the British flag. The reason of this is that our laws + discriminate against our own people, and in favor of other nations; the + taxes and other restrictions are such, that an American line cannot be run + so as to compete successfully with a foreign one, and consequently, + American capital seeking investment in steamships for the Atlantic + service, is very likely to go under a foreign flag! Isn’t this + pitiful? + </p> + <p> + There are occasional spasmodic efforts for the establishment of an + American line between New York and Liverpool, but they have never lasted + long. As I write these pages there is an American line from Philadelphia + that seems to promise well. It has good ships and is said to be well + equipped and managed. I sincerely hope it will have a long and successful + career, but if it does it will be different from any of the numerous + “lines” that have had their headquarters in New York. <span + class="pagenum">048</span><a name="link048" id="link048"></a> + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0012" id="linkimage-0012"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0058.jpg" alt="0058 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0058.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II—SCENES IN VIENNA—DOWN THE DANUBE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>On English Ground—The Road to the East—Life in the Austrian + Capital—Fun and Festivity—Visit to the Big Beer-Garden—Effects + of Champagne—Animated Conversation—How Twenty Thousand Dollars + were Spent—The Man with the Torn Vest—Headaches at a Discount—Yankees + in a Row—A Pugnacious Russian—“Quits” but not + Satisfied—Challenging an American—The Fashionable World—Down + the Danube—Scenes on the River—How Austrian Cigars are made—An + Imperial Tobacco Dealer—The Battle of Wagram—Castle of + Presburg—We Enter Hungary—An Evening in a Wine Cellar—Want + of a Little Soap—Night Scene on the Danube.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span>S this book is + intended to describe a journey in the Orient, we will leave our steamer at + Liverpool, and with one bound plant our feet in Vienna. + </p> + <p> + This is the last great city on the road to the East; she has twice enjoyed + the honors of a Turkish siege, and is the capital of a country which + fronts upon the land of the Moslem. So much has been written about Vienna + that I shall refrain from giving a description of the city and its people, + and shall content myself with remarking that I found it, next to Paris, + the most attractive place on the Continent. + </p> + <p> + I have been several times in Vienna, and at different seasons of the year, + but have never found it otherwise than gay and attractive. My longest + visit there was in the memorable year of the Exposition, when Vienna was + crowded with people from all parts of the globe, and the mingling of + nationalities made many curious scenes. <span class="pagenum">049</span><a + name="link049" id="link049"></a>The city government of Vienna endeavored + to make the place as attractive as possible, and did a great many things + to make the time pass pleasantly. There were balls and parties + innumerable; music and beer halls were open by the hundred; and every few + days there was a special entertainment to the strangers connected with the + Exposition. The first of these affairs that I attended was given one + evening in the Stadt Park. The Stadt Park would be in English the City + Park, Public Gardens, or any thing else you might choose to call a large + park or garden belonging to the city, and used for festivals on a grand + scale, and for a general place of recreation for the public. Near the + entrance is a large building somewhat resembling a palace on a small + scale; when I first saw it I asked a friend what it was, and was greatly + disappointed at his answer. I supposed it was an art gallery, imperial + pavilion, or department bureau, and was naturally somewhat surprised to + learn that it was a beer saloon and restaurant. You can understand that a + festival which illuminated these grounds, and wound up the illumination + with a display of fireworks, was a thing not to be sneezed at. It cost the + city of Vienna about twenty thousand dollars to give this “blowout,” + and they had the worth of the money. I do not think any of it went to the + Aldermen and Burgomaster, as is sometimes the case in America, when cities + get up grand displays in honor of distinguished guests. + </p> + <p> + Not only did the city furnish lights, fireworks, and music, but it + furnished an excellent supper washed down with champagne, white and red + wines, beer, tea, coffee, and—in a few instances—with water. + The effect of these things was interesting to behold. The international + juries contained representatives from nearly all the civilized nations of + the globe, and when the champagne had warmed their tongues there was a + chattering that would have done honor to the cage of monkeys that used to + ornament the <i>Jardin Des Plantes</i> in Paris before the war sent the + friends of Dr. Darwin to the cooking pot. In the beginning of the festival + all were trying to talk in German or in French, but as the champagne did + its work and heads began to whirl, the language of the country was + forgotten, and everybody was rattling away in his own tongue. Here would + be a group in which were half a dozen <span class="pagenum">050</span><a + name="link050" id="link050"></a>men, of as many nationalities, and each + would be talking in his own language as though his salvation depended on + his getting through as many words as possible in a given time. All would + be jabbering away for dear life, and all at once; and close by them, and + all around them, would be groups of the same sort, fraternizing in the + same way. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0013" id="linkimage-0013"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0060.jpg" alt="0060 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0060.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + At every step you might find an Englishman, a Frenchman, or a German + endeavoring to explain to an Italian, a Spaniard, or a Chinese, the + relations between the solar plexus, and the atomic theory as applied to + the construction of cart wheels. The amount of science evolved on that + evening was frightful to contemplate, as nearly every man was + science-sharp in some way or other, and your genuine man of genius is + pretty certain to become more and more talkative the more he gets drunk. + There was an immense amount of international fraternizing; and if all the + good words and wishes uttered on that occasion and moistened with + champagne could have effect, there would never be any more wars among + nations, and the various governments of the earth might disband their + armies and convert their artillery into <span class="pagenum">051</span><a + name="link051" id="link051"></a>locomotives and dirt-carts. Not only were + the international jurors there, but a good many other loafers, such as + city officials, attaches of the government bureaus, newspaper men, and + diplomates. The Emperor was not there, but some of the Archdukes were, and + there were lots of Austrians, with any number of decorations hanging on + the front of their coats. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0014" id="linkimage-0014"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8061.jpg" alt="8061 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8061.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + You couldn’t move without hitting a dignitary in official costume, + or a fellow so full of dignity in plain clothes that you would recognize + him at once as a heavy swell; and the mingling of the nationalities as the + evening wore on was funny to behold. + </p> + <p> + Germans and Russians, and others of the continental people were hugging + each other, and you had the spectacle—curious and novel to an + American—of bearded men kissing and re-kissing like couples of + school-girls. + </p> + <p> + They swore eternal friendship, and pledged each other till their hearts + and heads were too full and their tongues too thick for utterance. The + waiters got drunk, owing to the numbers of “heel-taps” and the + general abundance and freedom of the champagne. They got into rows among + themselves and with some of the guests, and altogether there were half a + dozen scrimmages of greater or less magnitude. Most of them were + fortunately confined to words, and were soon quelled, but there were two + rows in which there was some pushing, but no actual blows. + </p> + <p> + One American had his vest torn in a scuffle with a waiter. He went next + morning to the consulate, bearing the torn garment as proof of the affray; + but as he could not tell how the affair occurred, and could not remember + the name and face of the waiter who assaulted him, the Consul declined to + make the quarrel a national one. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0015" id="linkimage-0015"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9062.jpg" alt="9062 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9062.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + It was long after midnight when the last of the <i>convives</i> <span + class="pagenum">052</span><a name="link052" id="link052"></a>went home; + and when the sun rose next morning, Vienna contained an unwonted number of + heads swollen to unusual size and bursting with the pain of too much drink + the night before. + </p> + <p> + The words “West Portal” in very large letters. Man proposes + and the police dispose. The police turned us off at one of the bridges, + and would not allow us to go anywhere near the western entrance, but sent + us away in the direction of the south portal. Then another lot of police + stopped us a quarter of a mile from the gate, so that my ride to the + Exposition was more in theory than in practice. + </p> + <p> + Vehicles of every description were depositing people at the gates, and + thousands were going thither on foot. Many had come expecting to spend an + hour in the building before the beginning of the <i>fête</i>, but in this + they were disappointed, as the doors were closed at six o’clock, + instead of seven, the usual hour. The crowd kept coming, and coming; you + couldn’t find a vacant chair at any of the restaurants and beer + halls, and you found it no easy matter to walk about. I think that by + eight o’clock there were not less than a hundred thousand people in + the grounds, and they kept coming as late as nine o’clock. As a <i>fête</i>, + strictly speaking, the affair did not amount to much. Half a dozen bands + of music were playing in various parts of the grounds, and at the spot + known as the Mozart Platz, there was an Austrian singing-society. + </p> + <p> + That Sommerfest will be remembered by all who were there, and sadly by + more than one respectable head of a family. + </p> + <p> + Another night there was a festival in the grounds around the Exposition + building. I started for that place leisurely about five o’clock, + under agreement to meet a friend near the west portal, and mounted to the + deck of an omnibus which bore <span class="pagenum">053</span><a + name="link053" id="link053"></a>numbering about five hundred voices. Then + there were electric lights, nearly a dozen of them, that made the spot + brilliant, and when all their rays were thrown on the great dome they + brought it out into bold relief. + </p> + <p> + “How magnificent that dome appears,” said an American near me + to his friend; “you can see every part of it distinctly.” + </p> + <p> + “That may be,” said the other; “but you could see it a + great deal better in the daytime without paying a cent.” + </p> + <p> + Bless his practical mind! I never thought of that! + </p> + <p> + The light had a strange appearance when thrown on the trees and buildings + and fountains, and the scene reminded me of representations of fairyland, + such as we sec in the Black Crook, or in the panorama of the Pilgrim’s + Progress. If some of my theatrical friends could have been there, I think + they would have found some new hints for stage effects. The jewels in the + great crown that surmounts the dome were sparkling very brilliantly, and I + imagine that more than one individual in the crowd thought that the crown + would be a nice thing to plunder. The effect of the lights when turned + from you was very pleasing, but when you had to look one of them in the + face it became a nuisance. They had a way of changing the colors of the + lights that reflected upon the fountains so that they became by turns red, + blue, green, yellow, and white, eliciting a great many murmurs of + applause. + </p> + <p> + By half past nine the people began to move away, and there was a jam on + all the streets that led through the Prater up to the Praterstern. + Vehicles could only proceed at a walk, and even that pace could not always + be maintained. I was on the top of an omnibus, and rarely have I seen so + large a crowd as the one I looked upon from my post of observation. The + streets from the Praterstern spread out like the arms of a fan, or more + like the spokes of a wheel, and on all these streets people were about as + much crowded as they could be, and there was a much larger sprinkling of + women than you see in a crowd in America. Vehicles were moving as best + they could, and despite the rush and the jam everybody was good natured. + </p> + <p> + Nearly up to midnight the crowd surged along from the Prater, and + evidently people were in no hurry to go to bed. All Vienna seemed to be + out of doors, and the beer-halls were doing an enormous business. I would + not ask for a better fortune than to have <span class="pagenum">054</span><a + name="link054" id="link054"></a>a dollar for each glass of beer drank in + Vienna in the twenty-four hours ending the next morning at sunrise. There + were probably half a million people drinking beer on that festive day, at + an average of ten glasses each. + </p> + <p> + As an illustration of European customs, I will relate an incident of my + stay in Vienna: + </p> + <p> + One day, three American ladies were in the Exposition building, and + attracted the attention of a couple of strangers, one an Austrian officer, + and the other a Russian of considerable distinction in his own home. The + freedom of their manners, so natural to American women, was + misinterpreted, and the gentlemen made themselves obnoxious by following + them wherever they went, and, finally, by speaking to them, and offering + to be their escort. + </p> + <p> + Though repulsed, they followed; and, finally, near the Rotunda, the ladies + met a gentleman who was husband to one of them and brother to the other. + They told him the story, and pointed out their troublesome followers, who + were standing a little distance away. The American walked to where the + pair stood, and after a few words he coolly knocked the Russian down. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0016" id="linkimage-0016"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0064.jpg" alt="0064 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0064.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The latter made no resistance, but pulled out his card<span class="pagenum">055</span><a + name="link055" id="link055"></a>case and demanded the address of his + assailant, which was given. + </p> + <p> + Next day there came a challenge to fight; the Russian wanted satisfaction + for the insult he had suffered, and was determined upon a duel. The + American was inclined to accommodate him, but his friends interfered, and + one of them went to the Russian, with the assurance that the American + would have nothing to do with him. + </p> + <p> + “But I must have satisfaction,” demanded the Russian. “I + have been grossly insulted, and must have satisfaction.” + </p> + <p> + “I don’t see it,” was the American’s reply. + “You are even with him and can cry quits. You insulted his wife and + he knocked you down. Can anything be more equal than that?” + </p> + <p> + “But a blow! a blow, is a terrible insult to me, the Count —————, + and I must have a duel. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0017" id="linkimage-0017"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8065.jpg" alt="8065 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8065.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Speaking to a man’s wife is nothing. He had no business to strike + me; he could challenge me to fight, but strike me, never!” + </p> + <p> + “Well, anyhow, it seems he <i>did</i>, and if you were to insult my + wife as you did his, I would knock you down too. We do that way in + America, and when you insult an American woman you must be treated in + American style. My friend shall not fight a duel, and if you go near him + you will get knocked down again, or possibly get a revolver-shot through + you. Good-day.” + </p> + <p> + The Russian would not let the matter rest there. He tried to bring it + before the Russian Ambassador, and through him, before the United States + Minister; and there was a prospect that the affair would cause some + trouble. But the American’s friends refused <span class="pagenum">056</span><a + name="link056" id="link056"></a>to let him receive a challenge or take any + part in the discussion, so that the Russian was forced to the alternative + of having his adversary arrested for striking him, or of letting him + alone. As arresting him would not heal his wounded honor, he did not do + it, and the affair has now, I think, blown over. It is a dangerous + business to strike a man in Vienna, and, had the authorities chosen, they + could have made things lively for our pugilistic friend. Only physical + assaults are held to be an excuse for a blow. + </p> + <p> + There is a good deal of nonsense afloat about the beauty of the Viennese + women. I looked for it, but could not find it. I do not mean to say that + there are no handsome women here, as I saw a goodly number of pretty + faces, but they are not more numerous than in other cities. I have read + about the great beauty of the women, and know several men who have raved + about Vienna as the centre of the earth in this respect, but I cannot + understand it. Among the women that are seen in public places, such as the + music gardens, restaurants, and <i>cafés</i>, there are no more pretty + faces than you would see in Berlin or Paris, and the chances are more than + even that those you do see are not Viennese. + </p> + <p> + One evening I was sitting with a newly-arrived friend in the Volks-Garten + listening to the music of Strauss’s band. Hundreds of people were + walking up and down the gravel promenade, enjoying the cool and delicious + air, the bright lights, and above all, the sparkling music of Vienna’s + most celebrated composer. Two women passed near us; they were beautiful + beyond question, and my friend, who had not yet learned that it is unsafe + to say anything in a mixed assemblage, on the supposition that those + around will not understand you, remarked audibly: “Those are the + prettiest girls I have yet seen in Vienna.” + </p> + <p> + “Thank you, sir,” said one of them, as the twain passed on and + sat down in another part of the garden. + </p> + <p> + Half an hour later, we were strolling about, and went unnoticed near their + table. They were talking English in an accent that showed they were from + London, or, at all events, from some part of the Queen’s dominions. + Not far from them were two other handsome women, who were talking French + with a pure Parisian <span class="pagenum">057</span><a name="link057" + id="link057"></a>accent; and near these, again, there were others talking + Hungarian. + </p> + <p> + There is one part of the Volks-Garden where—on Tuesday and Friday + evenings—you will find an assemblage of the fashionable men and + women of Vienna, the members of the old and wealthy families, who are + received at court, and sometimes belong to it, and without whose sanction + nobody can be admitted into that charmed circle known as “Society.” + I took particular pains to look at this assemblage in a search for beauty, + and am obliged to say that I found very little of it. There were some + pretty women, but not a conspicuous number; nearly all of them were richly + dressed, but in a “louder” style than you expect to find among + really fashionable people. New York or Washington society would present a + better appearance than would that portion of Viennese society that I saw. + And people who lived there told me that I had seen a very good sample of + it. + </p> + <p> + One pleasant afternoon in October, when the sun shed its mellow rays on + the grey walls of Vienna, tinging the lofty spire of St. Stephen’s + Cathedral with golden light, and burnishing the faded foliage of the + venerable trees in the delightful park of Austria’s capital, I + hurried to the banks of the beautiful blue Danube, which Strauss has made + famous through the music loving world by the dedication of one of his most + charming waltzes. My prosaic object, amid so many poetical surroundings, + was to take the evening boat to Presburg. After the customary wrangle with + the hackman, I passed the gang-plank and stood among plump “fraus” + and “frauleins” with keen black eyes, set above rosy cheeks, + beneath an abundance of luxuriant hair of raven hue. Austrian peasants + were there with coats of coarse cloth like our once famous “butternut” + and Hungarian peasants were there with coats of sheep-skin. Languages + mingled, as did the speakers, but the Austrian voices were in the + majority, quite as much as were the owners thereof. The Austrian is more + loquacious than the Hungarian; the latter has a calm dignity about him, + reminding one of the Orient, and he is more economic in his use of words—possibly + for the reason that it is no easy matter to speak his language even when + one is born to it. <span class="pagenum">058</span><a name="link058" + id="link058"></a>Immediately below Vienna the Danube runs through a broad + plain that offers nothing of special interest, unless it be the spot where + in 1809 Napoleon built a bridge by which his army crossed the river on the + night of the fourth of July, to fight on the fifth the battle of Wagram, + which cost the Austrians twenty-six thousand men and led to the treaty of + Vienna in October of the same year. As we look towards the east the + horizon is everywhere limited by mountains; and as we approach them we + discover a change in the character of the country. The plain disappears + and is succeeded by hills. On the first of these, on the right bank, is + the picturesque town of Hainburg, with its ruined chateau dating from the + middle ages, and also a well built one of more modern days. + </p> + <p> + If we are smokers we should take a second look at Hainburg, for here is + the imperial factory employing two thousand persons in the manufacture of + cigars. Tobacco in Austria is a government monopoly; cigars are made by + the government and sold to the retail dealers at a discount of five per + cent., and this is the only profit allowed. Whether you, as a smoker, buy + one cigar, five cigars, five hundred or five thousand, you pay the same + price per <i>stuck</i>, and there is no choice as to shops, so far as + quality is concerned. Whether you buy in the Graben or the Taberstrasse of + Vienna, or in an obscure shop in an obscure village a hundred miles from + the capitol, you get the same quality of cigar for five, seven, nine, ten, + or twelve kreutzers, in the one place as in the other. All come from one + factory, and their goodness or badness never varies. + </p> + <p> + A little below Hainburg we pass the mouth of the river March, which + separates Austria from Hungary. It is not a large stream, barely wide + enough at this season of the year to be called a brook, but it is not + always thus. The March is sometimes very deep and strong, and it has + puzzled many a military commander how to cross it. During the various wars + between Austria and Hungary several battles were fought on the banks of + this river, some of them of a very sanguinary character. But all is quiet + now, and the only demonstration witnessed during our voyage was that some + of the Hungarian passengers raised their hats as the boat passed the + March, and one of them took the trouble to inform <span class="pagenum">059</span><a + name="link059" id="link059"></a>me of the political importance of the + locality, saying that he had served in the last war between the kingdom + and the empire. + </p> + <p> + We wind among hills, some of them steep and rugged, and one crowned by a + ruined fortress which once guarded the frontier and kept watch over the + river. We see the old castle of Presburg, standing out against the evening + sky; and it is dusk when we pass the bridge of boats which has been opened + for our descent, and the boat swings round to the landing place at the + ancient capital of Hungary. No wonder Austria and Hungary were always at + each other’s ears when their capitals were only forty miles apart.‘Tis + distance lends enchantment and preserves peace and harmony. + </p> + <p> + Our indefatigable consul at Vienna, General Post, had given me a letter of + introduction to the prince of wine-growers at Presburg, Herr Palaguay; and + as the Herr kept a hotel in addition to his wine business, the pair of us—an + American naval captain and myself—sought that establishment without + delay. We ordered dinner as it was late and we were hungry; the excellence + of the pheasant, venison, beef, and other good things that were set before + us, caused us to eat abundantly and to entertain a good opinion of the + edible resources of Hungary. If we lived thus at the gateway what should + we not find in traversing the kingdom? If it were only to secure a supply + of Hungarian pheasants, Austria would be justified, in the mind of a <i>gourmet,</i> + in the subjugation and appropriation of the entire land of Kossuth. What + are national rights against a well-supplied dinner table? + </p> + <p> + We devoted the evening to a visit to the spacious wine cellars of our + host. Very spacious they were; and we wandered about for two hours among + huge casks, some of them containing three thousand five hundred gallons + each, and worthy of being converted into tenement houses. We tasted of + Tokay Imperial and Tokay Royal, of Chateau Presburg, Blood of Hungary, and + I don’t know what else; and finally we grew weary of tasting and + went home. It was from these cellars that the imperial cellar of + Maximilian I., the ill-fated Emperor of Mexico, was stocked, and we were + shown through the place by the younger Palaguay, who went to Mexico with + Maximilian and arranged his wine vaults in <span class="pagenum">060</span><a + name="link060" id="link060"></a>the city of the Aztecs. Father and son + were warm admirers of the adventurous scion of the House of Hapsburg, and + the old gentleman never wearied of telling us about Kaiser Max and his + good qualities. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0018" id="linkimage-0018"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0070.jpg" alt="0070 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0070.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Next day we climbed to the old chateau that overlooks Pres-burg, and from + the esplanade in front had a beautiful view of the city and its + surroundings. Beneath us lay Presburg, venerable and grey, with its + cathedral, six centuries old, and its <i>Hotel de Ville</i>, dating from + the fourteenth century. Directly at our feet was the Jews-quarter. There + are seven thousand Jews here in a population of less than fifty thousand; + and there is more dirt and general uncleanliness in their quarter than in + all the rest of Presburg. West of us the hills shut out the view of + Vienna. North were the vine-clad ridges whence come the wines of Presburg. + And to the south and east were plain, field and forest; and showing a + broad, winding belt of silver, the course of the Danube. + </p> + <p> + Immediately opposite, and connected with the city by the bridge of boats, + was an island where is the Prater of Presburg with shaded seats, with <i>restaurants</i> + and open-air theatres and other places of amusements, to which the wearied + citizen goes to recreate in the fresh air. We went there in the afternoon + and found the Presburg adult of both sexes; we went there in the <span + class="pagenum">061</span><a name="link061" id="link061"></a>morning and + found the Presburg nursery-maid and infant in goodly numbers. In the + evening we went to the theatre; the best box in the house costs two + dollars; and a seat in the parquette forty cents. We had an Italian opera, + William Tell. The singing was fair, considering the price of tickets, and + the size of the house, and the son of William Tell was represented by a + young woman so pretty that my friend, the captain, was near falling in + love with her, despite his venerable years and his three months in Vienna. + The grand chorus consisted of twelve persons, the orchestra of nine, and + the scenery was of a miscellaneous nature that enabled it to do duty in + all the operas of any ordinary <i>répertoire</i>. + </p> + <p> + From Presburg to Pesth by the river is a run of about ten hours. Bidding + good-bye to the Captain, who was to return to Vienna, I went to the + landing one morning to take the boat down the river. She was due at + half-past nine o’clock, and I was there ten minutes before the time. + The hour came, but no boat. Then ten, ten and a half, eleven, eleven and a + half; and still no boat. I tried to be patient, but that was not easy; I + interrogated everybody, but to no purpose. Everybody was polite, but + couldn’t give any reason for the delay. + </p> + <p> + Finally, the boat appeared, and it turned out that she had been aground in + a fog near Vienna. Perfectly simple explanation when you know it! But + there had been no fog at Presburg, and hence the inability to comprehend + the cause of the delay. + </p> + <p> + Below Presburg, the river runs through a level country that offers few + objects of interest. It divides into several branches, and becomes wide, + and in some places so shallow that navigation is rather difficult. We + wound about considerably in some places, in search of the channel, and not + infrequently the bottom of the boat and the bottom of the river came in + contact. The erratic course of the Danube can be best understood by a + knowledge of the fact, that two of the islands formed by its diversion + into different channels, are, the one sixty, and the other forty miles + long. One is twenty, and the other ten miles wide; and both are so fertile + that they are called the Golden Gardens. Their surfaces are diversified + with forest, field, and pasture; herds of cattle and horses are numerous + upon them, and now and then villages peep out from the rich foliage. <span + class="pagenum">062</span><a name="link062" id="link062"></a>Back from the + river there are extensive wheat fields, and along the line of railway, + just before the harvest, one can ride for many miles through almost + unbroken fields of waving grain. + </p> + <p> + We pass the fortress of Komoru, and peer into the casemates, whence the + black-mouthed cannon look frowningly upon us. Komoru has a bloody and + eventful history; she has played an important part in all the wars between + Austria and Hungary, and in the insurrection of 1848-9 was twice captured + and re-captured. The deeds of valor of which Komoru was the scene, would + fill a volume; some of them have found a place in the histories of that + war, and some live only in the memories of the men who bore a part in the + insurrection, or in the effort to suppress it. + </p> + <p> + Below Komoru, the Danube became more interesting, and we entered a + mountain region that would have been picturesque could we have seen it by + daylight. It was dark when we passed this portion, and it was darker when + we reached the upper extremity of Isle Marguerite, with its gardens and + summer resorts, where the people of Pesth seek recreation and pure air in + the hot days of summer. + </p> + <p> + Along the channel that leads by the pretty island, we steamed at full + speed; and as we swept beyond its groves, the twinkling lamps of Pesth + suddenly came into view, fringing the bank of the river with a lace-work + of artificial light. The boat swung round in mid-stream, and brought us to + the bank, where a stone quay, with warehouses and piles of merchandise, + gave evidence of a prosperous city. The quay has a modern and substantial + appearance, and is overlooked by a street, on one side of which is an iron + railing, and the other side of which can boast many fine structures, + equalling in beauty and solidity most of the marble or iron fronts of New + York. Pesth has accomplished much in the last few years, in the way of + building, and one is rather taken aback to find such a prosperous and + rapidly-growing city so far in the East. <span class="pagenum">063</span><a + name="link063" id="link063"></a> + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0019" id="linkimage-0019"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0073.jpg" alt="0073 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0073.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III—LIFE AMONG THE MAGYARS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A City of renown—Overwhelmed by the Floods—Lying in Clover—What + I Saw in the Hungarian Capital—“The Poor Folk’s Bath”—Rather + Warm Quarters—Life Among the Magyars—The “Miffs,” + of an Imperial Couple—Her Majesty’s Choice—A Model + Captain—Charles Matthews and the Bowery Boy—Facts and Fancies + of a Snoring Match—The “Judge” and the “Doubter”—The + Man Who Wouldn’t Believe—Who were the “Hamals,” + and What They Did—People in Strange Garments—Baggy Breeches + versus Slop—The Fortress of Belgrade—Servia, and What I Saw of + Its People—The Assassination of Prince Miloch—Rather Bad for + Poetry.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">P</span>ESTH was founded + by the Romans, who were attracted by the mineral springs in the vicinity. + They built a fort and established a sort of water-cure, though not on a + large scale. + </p> + <p> + The city has had a rough time, and a hard struggle for existence. It has + been captured and pillaged more than a dozen—some say eighteen—times, + and for nearly a century and a half it was in the hands of the Turks, who + were not particularly gentle in their treatment of the inhabitants. It has + been burned, and it has been overflowed; the last great inundation was in + 1838, when two thousand houses were destroyed in Pesth, and six hundred in + Buda, on the opposite bank. + </p> + <p> + Query.—Isn’t there a chance that the “Beautiful Blue + Danube” will get high again some time, and sweep away all the fine + warehouses along the quay, together with a few million dollars’ + worth of the merchandise stored there? + </p> + <p> + I couldn’t help thinking of that as I contemplated this busy, + energetic Chicago of Austro-Hungary, and resolved that I would <span + class="pagenum">064</span><a name="link064" id="link064"></a>not leave my + trunk over night at the steamboat landing. I entrusted it to a Hungarian + <i>trager</i>, who strapped it on his back and motioned me to follow, like + a downcast and silent mourner, as he led the way to the hotel I named. I + know of but one hotel in all Europe—the Grand Hotel at Paris—which + can surpass in extent, completeness, and magnificence, the Grand Hotel + Hun-garia at Pesth. + </p> + <p> + I passed four days very pleasantly at Pesth, visiting its Museum of + Antiquities, its Gallery of Paintings, and going to the races, where I saw + some fine horses of Hungarian stock, and also some fine ones of Hungarian + stock crossed with English. I went to one of the famous baths of Buda, + where I bathed and then breakfasted at the <i>restaurant</i> attached to + the establishment. Buda, by the way, is directly opposite to Pesth; the + two cities were long distinct, but they are now united into a single + municipality under the name of Buda-Pesth, and the union is strengthened + by a beautiful bridge on the suspension principle. This bridge was + completed in 1848, and, though a work of peace, its early uses were + singularly warlike. It was inaugurated on the 5th of January, 1849, by the + passage of the Hungarian army under Kossuth, pursued by the Austrians. + Four months later, the Austrian army retreated over the same bridge, + pursued by the Hungarians. Turn about is fair play. + </p> + <p> + Buda has a more picturesque site than Pesth, as it stands partly on a + hill, and is dominated by the Blocksberg, a mountain that overlooks the + river, and is crowned by a fortress. There are several baths in Buda, some + of them of great extent, and all having hot water from natural springs. + You can bathe in a public room, or you can have a bath to yourself; and + you have the advantages of a <i>restaurant</i> in the building, so that + you may command your breakfast or dinner, and have it brought to your room + if you choose, along with anything liquid you wish to select from a + wine-card. Then there are gardens attached to the baths, where bands of + music entertain the ear, and groups of the youths and maidens and adults + of Buda-Pesth sit in the shade and regale themselves after the manner of + the German in his sommer-garten. + </p> + <p> + In one of your promenades you may visit the <i>bain des pauvres</i>, where + both sexes bathe together with only the scantiest apparel. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">065</span><a name="link065" id="link065"></a>The + place is hot and steamy, and the odors anything but charming. A single + glance satisfied me, and I was glad to seek the open air and sit at one of + the tables in the beer garden, until the perspiration had dried from my + forehead and the steam from my clothing. This bath-house is a dome-like + structure, lighted by a single window in the top. It was built by the + Turks, and was used by them as a convent of dervishes. + </p> + <p> + Hungary is now as thoroughly Austrian as any part of the Monarchy. The + Hungarians have all they ever asked for, and some of them say they have + more. They have their own parliament; their finances are kept separate + from those of Austria, and they run their own affairs pretty much as they + please. The Emperor was crowned King of Hungary, and his prime minister, + Count Andrassy, is a Hungarian; the Emperor is well disposed towards the + country of the Magyars—one of my friends persists in calling them + the Maguires—and as for the Empress, it is well known that she likes + the Hungarians much better than the Austrians, and prefers Pesth to + Vienna. The gossips whisper that the august couple have their “miffs” + occasionally, and one cause of these matrimonial jars is the decided + preference which Her Majesty shows for the Hungarians. All things + considered, Hungary has reason to be content. She can let alone wars and + insurrections, and attend to the development of her resources, which are + by no means small, and that is what she is doing, and evidently intends to + do. + </p> + <p> + From Pesth to Belgrade the Danube has a general southerly course, and + flows for the most part through a broad plain, extremely fertile but + rather sparsely inhabited. There is little animation on the river; the + principal objects to catch the eye are the numerous water-mills, but they + are an old story to one who has descended the Danube from Lintz to Vienna, + and from Vienna to Pesth. + </p> + <p> + These mills are very simple, inexpensive, and effective, and they utilize + a power which would otherwise run to waste. Two barges, or flat boats, one + larger than the other, are anchored in the river, and held about twenty + feet apart by means of a couple of wooden beams. A rude wheel with the + floats at right angles to the current, is built between the two boats; an + end of <span class="pagenum">066</span><a name="link066" id="link066"></a>the + shaft is supported by each, and in the larger of the boats the shaft turns + the machinery of a flour mill. A house is built over the mill, and + sometimes the miller lives there with his family. Communication with the + shore is maintained by means of a plank or a small boat. The mill costs + but little at the outset, and the power that turns it is always ready as + long as water runs in the river. + </p> + <p> + I wonder why these mills are not introduced in America. On our western + rivers where the current is strong, they could be used to great advantage, + and many thousands of them could be run without interfering with + navigation. + </p> + <p> + The navigation of the great river of Austria is managed by two companies—one + Austrian and the other Hungarian. The latter is confined to Hungarian + waters, but the other—The Danube Steam Navigation Company—extends + its operations along the whole line of the river from Lintz to its mouth, + and it even runs a line of sea-going boats between Galatz and Odessa. On + the lower Danube below Pesth it has two kinds of boats, the one local and + the other express, or, as they call them, “accelerated.” The + local boats stop at all the landings, and do not travel much at night. The + “accelerated boats” only touch at a few points; and travel day + and night, weather permitting. On the local boats your ticket includes + nothing but your passage; meals and berths are extras. On the “accelerated + boats” you pay for everything in a lump, and have no trouble about + settling at each meal or piecemeal. + </p> + <p> + I took passage on the “accelerated” steamer <i>Franz Josef</i> + and found her very comfortable; her cabins were clean, her table was good + and well supplied, and her captain was designed by nature to charm the + heart of traveling man or woman—especially the latter—and the + design of nature had been further developed by art and education. He spoke + French like a Parisian, was as handsome as his own picture (it is not + always thus); wore such a lovely mustache, and was as polite as a courtier + of the days of Louis Quatorze. He had a mixed party to entertain, but he + was fully equal to the task. + </p> + <p> + There were four Russians, two men and two women; all were polite and well + bred, and the women were sociable and dignified, <span class="pagenum">067</span><a + name="link067" id="link067"></a>without being pert or bashful. There were + Servians and Roumanians of both sexes; there were Austrians and Hungarians + likewise; there were two Frenchmen—engineers connected with the + location of the Roumanian railways; there were two English women of the + independent class that travels about the world unprotected by man, and + perfectly capable of protecting itself under all circumstances; and there + were three Americans. + </p> + <p> + At dinner I made a comparison of the manners of the table with those of + steamboat tables in America, and the comparison was not favorable to my + own country. There you generally see men eating in silence and rapidity, + and with very little regard for the comfort of their neighbors. Here the + meal was eaten leisurely; everybody was civil to everybody else; + conversation was general, and instead of fifteen minutes for refreshments, + we had an hour and a half, and seasoned the meal with pleasant exchanges + of information upon a variety of topics. There was no distinction of age + or sex in the conversation, but every one seemed determined to <i>faire + son mieux</i> to enable the rest to pass the time agreeably. + </p> + <p> + The incident described by Charles Matthews on one of the Sound steamers, + would have created a first-class sensation here: “Will you have the + goodness to pass the salt?” said the English comedian to a Bowery + boy, who was shovelling meat and potatoes down his throat with the speed + of the most effective kind of dredging machine. “Salt by yer,” + said the patriot, without deigning to do more than raise his eyes, and + continuing his feeding without so much as an instant’s interruption. + “O, I beg your pardon,” said Matthews, looking down and + espying the saltcellar close to his plate, “I did’nt see it.” + </p> + <p> + “Who the ——— said you did?” was the gruff + reply. “I said ‘salt by yer.’” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0020" id="linkimage-0020"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0078.jpg" alt="0078 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0078.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + On board the Franz Josef, I had intended to take a private cabin, but when + I learned the price of it I changed my mind. The price of passage was + eighteen florins (a florin is equal to fifty cents of our money); a + private cabin costs twenty-three florins, so that the whole bill would + have been forty-one florins! I didn’t relish paying eleven dollars + and a half for privacy when there was a good, comfortable berth at my + disposal for nothing. The sleeping cabin is under the main saloon, and is + divided into <span class="pagenum">068</span><a name="link068" id="link068"></a>cabins + holding four persons each—that is if a green curtain let down in + front can be called a division. I saw there were many advantages in + sleeping there that you would not have in a private cabin. + </p> + <p> + You could have, for instance, a sample of the snoring of each of the + nationalities on board, a thing you do not get every day; if one of the + number should happen to indulge in delirium tremens or fits you could see + the effect on him without any extra charge. + </p> + <p> + So I kept my twenty-three florins, and by paying a few kreutzers to one of + the servants, our party of three managed to get a cabin all to ourselves. + The extra berth we used for stowage purposes, and very convenient we found + it. We took our tea and retired early, as we expected to be in Belgrade by + daybreak. + </p> + <p> + And such snoring! I had been told that the English and Americans are the + only people who indulge in this amusement, but I found that my information + was incorrect. Of those who slept in that cabin at least half did + themselves credit by the extent and originality of their nasal music. + There was one fat old Russian who struck a chromatic scale with the + regularity and accuracy of a country singing-school. He would start with a + light snort, then run up to the eighth note, which would be a <span + class="pagenum">069</span><a name="link069" id="link069"></a>cross between + the report of a rifle and the murmur of a brook under the ice, and then he + came down the eight-rounded ladder to a sound exactly like his preliminary + snort. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0021" id="linkimage-0021"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0079.jpg" alt="0079 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0079.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + There was a heavy-sided Austrian who kept him company in such a fashion + that I thought our boat had turned in to a high pressure one; and there + was a Roumanian who had a fashion of dropping his jaw and biting off his + snore every five minutes or so. In the first part of the night it was + impossible to sleep, and our party turned to betting as to which of the + performers would hold out the longest on a single spurt. We kept it up an + hour or more, but the men we backed were so unreliable that we all lost + money, and finally growing sleepy we gave up the game. Whether we added to + the music when we fell asleep, I am unable to say, but I fancy that we did + not diminish it. In the morning we heard that the boat was badly shaken at + the stern, and the captain said she would have to lie up after the present + trip. I will lay a wager that it was the old Servian that did the + business. + </p> + <p> + We were aground in the night and detained by a fog, but the loss of time + was a gain in sight-seeing. Without detention we should have passed + Peterwarde in in the early morning; as it was <span class="pagenum">070</span><a + name="link070" id="link070"></a>we saw it after we had taken breakfast and + were in a good mood for contemplation. + </p> + <p> + It is a picturesque fortress dominating the river and covering an escarped + hill that shows a double façade pierced with portholes, with a complex + arrangement of bastions, salient and reentering angles, casemates, and + sheltered barracks. It can contain ten thousand men without serious + crowding; its permanent garrison consists of about one-fourth that number. + Here it was that Peter the Hermit assembled his soldiers for the first + crusade, and it was from that religious enthusiast that the fortress + received its modern name. + </p> + <p> + We saw here on this part of the Danube, as we had seen above, boats towed + by horses, seven or eight in line, against the current; we saw droves of + white cattle and we rarely saw any other color than white; we saw women + working in the fields, and at Mohacs we saw them wheeling coal in barrows + or carrying it in baskets. A little past noon we were looking ahead and + saw a city perched on a hill above a fortress, and near it, and nearer to + us, was another city on a low tongue of land. + </p> + <p> + The nearer city was Semlin—the more distant was Belgrade—they + pronounce it with the accent on the last syllable and make it rhyme with + “hard,” or very nearly so. + </p> + <p> + The river Save (rhymes with “halve”) here joins the Danube + from the East and forms the boundary between Austro-Hungary on the one + hand and Servia on the other. Semlin is on one side of the mouth of the + Save and Belgrade on the other. Semlin is flat and low and offers nothing + picturesque; Belgrade is elevated and pretty and merits the admiration + which has been bestowed upon it. + </p> + <p> + The boat stopped a few moments at Semlin and then moved on to Belgrade, + and the two Americans whose acquaintance I had made at Pesth determined to + travel with me or I with them as we had a common object in view—to + reach Constantinople. They were both reasonably well along in years; one + was called “the Judge” for his fair round belly which he was + accustomed to line with good capon or anything else that possessed the + proper lining qualities. The other was called “the Doctor,” + which we soon exchanged to “Doubter” for the reason that he + doubted <span class="pagenum">071</span><a name="link071" id="link071"></a>everything + that he had not seen, and even after seeing it his doubts generally + continued. + </p> + <p> + “I have known,” said the Judge one day, “a man that + could lift a thousand pounds of lead at once.” + </p> + <p> + “I doubt it,” said the “Doubter.” + </p> + <p> + The Judge reduced the figure to eight hundred, then to six hundred, and so + on down to fifty pounds, but still the doubt was maintained. + </p> + <p> + I remarked that it was once told of a man in Islip, Long Island, the + steward of the Olympic Club, who, in the summer of 1872; had a tame oyster + that could sing “The Star Spangled Banner” and fire a gun. + </p> + <p> + Particularity as to time, place, and circumstance generally carries + conviction, but it failed in this instance. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0022" id="linkimage-0022"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8081.jpg" alt="8081 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8081.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The Judge laughed and made no response, but the “Doubter” + shook his head incredulously. + </p> + <p> + We went ashore; a Servian official examined our passports and another took + a hasty survey of our baggage, and then the twain released us. We gave + over our baggage to a couple of porters or <i>Hamals</i> as they call them—possibly + a corruption of the word camel; the name of the animal whose proclivities + to bear burdens are well known. + </p> + <p> + In most parts of the Orient, particularly in Constantinople, the “Harnals” + are a guild or labor-union, and are governed by rules like labor-unions in + England or America. And they carry enormous burdens—iron, wood, + stone, boxes, and bales, casks of wine, anything and everything goes on + their backs, and is carried uphill or down hill to its destination. + Remember that few streets of Oriental cities are practicable for wheeled + vehicles but that everything to be moved must be moved by hand. + </p> + <p> + The dress of the hamal is peculiar, and he has a hard cushion slung by + straps over his shoulder and resting just above the hips. {72}I have seen + one of these fellows carry a load that would be sufficient for a one horse + dray in New-York; I have seen another carry a bale of goods said to weigh + three hundred and fifty pounds; and I have seen another carry my trunk, my + friend’s trunk, and another friend’s trunk, all at once, from + a hotel to a steamboat landing, where the respective weights ascertained + on the company’s scales were seventy pounds, one hundred and fifty + pounds, and one hundred and forty-five pounds, or three hundred and + sixty-five pounds in all! + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0023" id="linkimage-0023"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9082.jpg" alt="9082 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9082.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The harnals walk at a dignified pace—you could hardly expect them to + run—they look healthy, but either the work is not salubrious or the + gods love them, as they die young. + </p> + <p> + We followed the porters up the hill to the Hotel de Paris, and as soon as + we had settled into our rooms and looked through the house we sauntered + out to see the city. + </p> + <p> + In front of the hotel is a public square with a fountain, where people + fill water jars or idle away a sunny afternoon. Belgrade is a sort of + meeting-place of the Occident and the Orient; the costumes of the lower + classes are Oriental, and those of the richer inhabitants were likewise + Oriental until within the past ten or twenty years. In the strides which + Servia has made towards an existence independent of Turkey, she has looked + leaningly and lovingly toward the West and put on some of its customs and + habits. Thus you see the lower classes wearing the baggy breeches, the + loose jacket, and the red cap of Turkey, while the well-to-do citizen + dresses in coats, and vests, and trowsers from the slop<span + class="pagenum">073</span><a name="link073" id="link073"></a>shops of + Vienna and Paris. He is proud to be thus appareled, though his clothes fit + him like ready-made garments everywhere, only a little more so, and he + feels not altogether comfortable in them and sometimes sighs for the + garments of his youth. There is a good deal of dignity about the Servians + of all classes, and you might explode a fire-cracker in the ear of one of + them without getting him to move with any rapidity. + </p> + <p> + We took a short walk to the fortress of Belgrade—a fortress that has + made a great deal of noise in the world and has been a bony bone of + contention for several centuries. In the fifteenth century it was + accounted one of the first citadels in Europe, and in 1521 it was taken by + the Turks. Since then it has been captured no less than eight times, and + it has been twice transferred by reason of treaties. It is a powerful + fortress, even against the artillery of to-day, and occupies a commanding + position on a promontory jutting out between the Danube and the Save. + </p> + <p> + The view from the esplanade is one of the finest on the Danube, and + embraces a wide range. Northward stretches the broad plain of Hungary; to + the West is the Save and its fertile valleys; in the south there is a + landscape of river, plain, and mountain; and at our feet lies the flowing + Danube rolling away towards the Draw Gate and the dark waters of the + Euxine. The fort encloses a pretty garden and miniature park, and a house + where once lived the Turkish pasha. By the side of the house there is a + mosque rapidly going to ruin, as also are many parts of the fortress. A + crowd of <i>forçats</i> in chains and guarded by half a dozen soldiers, + are at work on the bridge which leads across the moat; they make way for + us to pass, and the soldiers of the guard honor us with a salute. + </p> + <p> + From the fortress we drove through the town and out upon a macadamized + road to Topchidere, or Valley of the Artillerists. It is nearly two miles + from Belgrade to Topchidere, but the view is well worth the journey. There + is a pretty park and garden covering quite an extent of ground; trees are + arranged in rows, in circles, and in other ways, according to the fancy of + the gardener; there are fountains and shaded walks, carriage and bridle + paths, and there are numerous and easy seats where one may rest when he is + weary. In the centre of the park is the house <span class="pagenum">074</span><a + name="link074" id="link074"></a>inhabited by Miloch Obrenovitch, Prince of + Servia, who died in 1860, and was deeply and justly mourned. + </p> + <p> + The house, and particularly the room where he died, is in the same + condition as when he left it. He preferred the rude furniture to the most + costly palace of modern times, and he set an example of frugality that has + been of no small benefit to his people. They showed us the room where he + died, with his cane, his shoes, his fez and other articles, just as they + were when his physicians declared that Miloch was no more. + </p> + <p> + In the same building is the room where his son Michael died in 1868, + mortally wounded by the shots of assassins in the park where he was + riding. The blood-stains remain upon the floor, the bed and bedding, and + also upon the table where he was laid when the physicians examined the + wound. The place of the assassination is half a mile or more from the + house and is marked by a plain monument. + </p> + <p> + The story is the old, old tale of princely and kingly murders; an intrigue + was set on foot by an aspirant to the throne of Servia, Alexander + Karageorgevitch, and was assisted by a scandal which had a woman in the + case. Karageorgevitch had ruled in Servia, not once, but twice, and + naturally he wanted to be there again. He had many friends in Servia, and + up to the time of the assassination his return was not impossible. After + the murder of Michael there was a judicial inquiry which declared + Karageorgevitch instigator of the assassination, and condemned him to + perpetual banishment. + </p> + <p> + The Prince of Servia at the time I write is Milan Obrenovitch IV., a young + man who attained his majority in 1872, and consequently has had little + opportunity to make his name famous. He is said to be intelligent, and + willing to listen to advice; as his country has a constitution and a + Congress—called in Servian <i>Skoupchina</i>—he could not take + it far on the road to ruin, supposing he wished to do so. He has made + journeys to Paris and Vienna, where he was warmly received, and it was his + reception at Vienna that made trouble between Turkey and Austria in 1873, + and came near plunging the two nations into war. Turkey wanted to know, + you know, why Austria had made so much fuss over the Prince of Servia; + Austria said it was none of Turkey’s <span class="pagenum">075</span><a + name="link075" id="link075"></a>business; Turkey said it was an unfriendly + action; Austria said “you’re another;” Turkey pouted, + and Austria actually fished out from the pigeon-holes the passports of the + Sultan’s representative at Vienna, and was on the point of sending + them to that functionary with a first-class ticket (meals and cabin + included, wines extra) to Constantinople, when the affair was smoothed + over and war was prevented. + </p> + <p> + Servia lies between Turkey and Austria, and contains about a thousand + geographical square miles. It has a population of about a million and a + quarter, and of this population all are Christians, with the exception of + less than twenty thousand. The country is agreeably diversified with plain + and mountain, and the soil is fertile, though far less productive than it + should be. The inhabitants are not very enterprising, and have given + little attention to public works; the roads in the interior are not + generally good, and up to the present time there are no railways. A change + is about to come over Servia’s dream in this respect, as she has + determined upon the construction of a line of railway southeasterly from + Belgrade to connect with the Turkish railway at the frontier, to form the + connecting link between the Austrian and Turkish network of railways. When + this is completed there will be a through <i>route</i> from London to + Constantinople, and the present long but picturesque line of travel will + become unpopular. The practical spirit of the age is playing sad havoc + with the poetry of the olden time. There is a story that an old sailor + exclaimed as he looked at an ocean steamer, “There’s an end of + seamanship.” And he wasn’t so far out of the way. The romance + and charm of the sea are knocked on the head by our new-fangled + inventions. + </p> + <p> + Servia adopted a new constitution in 1869, and is now a constitutional, + hereditary monarchy. The person of the prince is inviolable, but his + ministers are not let off so easily. There are two kinds of legislatures, + or <i>skaupchinas</i>, the ordinary and the extraordinary; the former + meeting once a year, and the latter summoned under extraordinary + circumstances. The members are elected by the people, and the constitution + guarantees equality before the law, civil and religious liberty, freedom + of the press, and the abolition of confiscation. The religion is princi<span + class="pagenum">076</span><a name="link076" id="link076"></a>pally Greek + orthodoxy. Roman Catholics abound, but are not numerous, and there are a + few Jews—less than two thousand—who are compelled to live in + Belgrade, as the law will not permit them to dwell in the interior. Here + is religious liberty with a vengeance! There are a few Mohammedans, but + the number is steadily diminishing. Belgrade, at the time of my visit, + contained twelve Mohammedans and nineteen mosques, some of the latter in + ruins and the rest getting that way—a great deal of bread to a + little sack! Giving each mosque a single worshipper there would still be + seven mosques like the little lions in the boy’s picture of the + prophet Daniel—they wouldn’t get any! + </p> + <p> + The army contains about five thousand regulars and one hundred thousand + militia. The finances are in excellent condition; there is no public debt, + and the taxes, light in comparison with those of some European countries, + generally bring a revenue in excess of the disbursements. Three cheers for + Servia. Hip, hip, hooray!! + </p> + <p> + All this time I have kept you standing waiting in the Topchidere + </p> + <p> + Park, while I have been droning along about Servia and her government, for + which you don’t care any more than a cat does for existence. Well, + let us get out of the park and return to the city, where we will dine + comfortably and drink the wine of the country, and the less said about it + the better. Wine culture in Servia is in its infancy, and there is no + occasion to go into ecstacies about the native products. + </p> + <p> + While we are at dinner a gentleman tells us of the old style of executions + and their contrast with the present. When the Turks ruled here, a man + sentenced to execution was thrown down a bank about ten feet high, upon + half a dozen spikes that stood upright. If one of the spikes entered a + vital part and killed him instantly, or in a few minutes, his friends had + reason to thank fortune. Sometimes a victim would be caught in the fleshy + part of the arm or leg, and in this case he might be days in dying. No + food nor drink could be given to him, but he must lie there and perish of + hunger and thirst and the inflammation of the wound caused by the pitiless + iron. My informant said that less than ten years ago a victim of the law + lay thus for five days before death came to his relief, and for the first + forty-eight hours his <span class="pagenum">077</span><a name="link077" + id="link077"></a>screams were so loud that they could be heard, especially + in the stillness of the night, half over the city of Belgrade. + </p> + <p> + Since the Turks went away a more humane method has been adopted. The + criminal condemned to death is fed on the best that the city contains for + a month previous to the execution of the sentence of the law. On the fatal + day he is allowed as much spirit as he chooses to drink, and in this + condition he is taken to a valley outside of the town. There the death + warrant is read, and as its last words are pronounced there is a report of + a couple of pistols and the man falls dead, shot through the heart. Just + before my visit two men were thus executed; they went to their death in a + hilarious condition, and were singing and shouting as they marched through + the town. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0024" id="linkimage-0024"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5087.jpg" alt="5087 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5087.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">078</span><a name="link078" id="link078"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0025" id="linkimage-0025"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0088.jpg" alt="0088 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0088.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV—NEARING THE ORIENT—“BACKSHEESH!” + </h2> + <p> + <i>Among the Fleas—The Mystery of the Bedclothes—A Cool + Explanation—Under the Spray—What became of the Dragon—A + Queer Story about Flies—What is an “Araba?”—Conversation + without Words—Changing Shirts in Public—The Iron Gate—Scene + at the Custom House—Official Obstinacy—The “Sick Man”—Scenes + in the Orient—The Mysteries of the Quarantine—How We Dodged + the Turks—The Turk and his Rosary—Pity the Poor Israelite!—Why + an Unlucky Jewess was Whipped—The Secret of the Turkish Loan—How + the Money is Spent—Ten Million Dollars Gone!—What is “Backsheesh?”</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HEN continuing our + journey down the river, we took passage on board a local boat, which + proved to be far less cleanly than the “accelerated steamer.” + </p> + <p> + The table was not good, and the cots had each but a single sheet; the + deficiency in bedding, and its inability to keep one warm, were met by a + large and assorted lot of fleas that made things lively through the night, + and brought our bodies into a condition resembling that of a lobster + recovering from a case of measles. + </p> + <p> + The Judge snored happily through all surrounding troubles, and the “Doubter” + was inclined to disbelieve the existence of the industrious insects until, + when morning came, he looked at himself in the glass. Even then he + continued sceptical, and attributed the red spots on his skin to the + claret at Belgrade, and possibly to a bad cigar which he smoked the day + before. + </p> + <p> + As a general thing, you cannot induce a hotel or steamboat servant to + admit the existence of anything disagreeable about the scene of his + labors; but we found it different on board the Basiasch has nothing + attractive; it consists of a railway station, a hotel, and a heap of coal. + Before we tied up to the wharf, its population was much larger than five + minutes later, when the passengers from the railway had come on board. + </p> + <p> + We steamed on from Basiasch to Moldowa, where we lay through the night. I + took an evening ramble through the town, which possesses nothing + remarkable except its population, which is half military and half peasant + in character; a sort of Russian Cossack that performs military duty a part + of the time, and works in the field when not engaged in the service of the + state. Next morning, we were to be called bright and early to continue + <span class="pagenum">079</span><a name="link079" id="link079"></a><i>Ferdinand + Max</i>. We interrogated the cabin steward on the deficiency of bedding, + and he replied that they had enough when the season began, but the fleas + had eaten it up! The explanation was so reasonable, that even the “Doubter” + accepted it! + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0026" id="linkimage-0026"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0089.jpg" alt="0089 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0089.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + From Belgrade to Basiasch, the scenery of the Danube is much like that + above the mouth of the Save. At Basiasch, the railway from Pesth and + Vienna reaches the river, and we took on board several passengers who had + come by rail from those cities. The quick route from Vienna to + Constantinople is by this railway, but it is a dreary ride, and, unless + one is in a hurry, he had better stick to the river. <span class="pagenum">080</span><a + name="link080" id="link080"></a>our journey at daybreak, but I was up + before the call, and out on deck. + </p> + <p> + We were to be transferred, and were transferred, to another boat, an + odd-looking affair with powerful machinery, and with two wheels on each + side. Her steering-wheel was astern, directly over the rudder, and though + she was small she required all the strength of two men to control her. + </p> + <p> + On such a boat we left Moldowa, just as day broke in the east, and steamed + down the river with the rapidity of a railway train. The banks seemed to + be flying past us, or we flying past them, and the spray was dashed quite + over the boat, drenching the deck passengers who were huddled forward and + by no means leaving dry the <i>erste classe</i> astern. The blush on the + eastern horizon extended, and as daylight became clear and full we entered + the mountains, and were among the boiling rapids which mark this part of + the Danube in the season of low water. + </p> + <p> + On the right bank appeared the wonderful fortress of Galumbutz, built by + Maria Theresa. Out of the river rises a pyramid of rocks, and from base to + summit this pyramid is covered with towers and walls, and pierced with + windows and port-holes. The foundations of the fortress were Roman, and + the tradition is that Trojan Helen was once imprisoned there. Almost in + face of this fortress is the famous cave known as the Muckenhole, whence + came a species of mosquitoes that annually kill thousands of cattle along + this portion of the Danube valley. There is a legend that they arise from + the putrefaction of the dragon killed by St. George; they issue from the + cave in clouds, and extend their ravages more than a hundred miles in + every direction. The government walled up the entrance of the cave in the + hope of destroying the pest, but without success; the probability is that + the insect inhabits the entire country, and only goes to the cave in bad + weather. + </p> + <p> + The river makes many bends and zig-zags, and at times we went unpleasantly + near the rocks. The scenery in this part is wild, and the land generally + too rough for cultivation. Along the left bank there is an excellent road, + which extends from Moldowa to Orsona, the frontier town of Austro-Hungary, + and keeps constantly on the river bank. On the opposite shore there are + <span class="pagenum">081</span><a name="link081" id="link081"></a>traces + of a Roman road cut into the mountain side, but evidently never completed. + </p> + <p> + Two hours on this four-wheeled steamer brought us to Drenkova, where we + landed and were consigned to carriages and carts. The first-class + passengers had carriages that were reasonably comfortable, as they had + stuffed seats, and backs to lean against, but the others were thrust into + <i>arabas</i> or common carts, some of them having straw to sit upon, some + rough seats without backs, and some neither straw nor seats. Sometimes the + “araba” is drawn by horses, and sometimes by oxen; in Turkey + it is generally drawn by oxen, with an arrangement swinging over their + backs to keep away the flies, and the cart has in hot or wet weather an + awning over it to protect the travelers. In the present instance we had + horses and a driver, the latter a native of the country, and black enough + to be half Indian and half negro. He was amiable and anxious to please us, + and we got up quite a conversation of signs, as we had not a single word + in common. I tried him in English, French, German, Russian, and Italian, + and he tried me in Moldavian, all to no purpose. What an inconvenience you + find in this thing of languages. Wouldn’t I like to twist the neck + of the fellow who proposed to build the Tower of Babel? + </p> + <p> + The Danube was at its lowest, otherwise we should have saved this land + travel, and could have passed the upper Iron Gate by water. As it was, we + looked upon the rapids and whirlpools, and on the rocks scattered here and + there in the channel, and were not altogether sorry to be on land. At one + place the channel for boats is only seventy feet wide at low water, and + the current is very swift. The name Iron Gate comes from the Turkish, + Demi-Kapour, and is intended to mean a hindrance to navigation, rather + than a narrow passage barred with a formidable door. The right bank in + this locality is simply magnificent. The mountains are steep and rugged, + their summits covered with trees, and their sides presenting enormous + masses of grey rocks, capriciously veined with red porphyry, and here and + there showing deep crevices that appear to be the mouths of caverns. + </p> + <p> + After three hours of this sort of travel we were transferred to a small + steamer where we managed to get an apology for din<span class="pagenum">082</span><a + name="link082" id="link082"></a>ner, and where, when the little cabin was + full of men and women, a Hungarian passenger with an enormous mustache and + a loud voice opened his valise, removed his coat and vest, and coolly + proceeded to change his shirt. + </p> + <p> + He was not at all abashed to display his back and shoulders to the party, + but went on with his toilet very much as if in a room by himself. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0027" id="linkimage-0027"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9092.jpg" alt="9092 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9092.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Nobody interfered with him, and after he had finished his change he was + the best dressed man on the boat, as he could boast a clean shirt while + the rest of us were dusty with our ride from Drenkova. + </p> + <p> + From time to time the Danube in this part of its course expands into large + basins like mountain lakes. One of these is particularly beautiful as it + seems to be completely enclosed and reveals no passage for the river. By + and by, as the steamer moves along, an opening is discovered and we enter + a deep gorge with steep mountain walls two thousand feet high on either; + hand and with a width to the river from wall to wall in one place of only + two hundred yards. The noise of the wheels is echoed and re-echoed from + side to side, and the scene forcibly recalled to me the prettiest and + wildest portion of the Saguenay in Canada, the Rhine near the Seven + Mountains, and the Amoor in the Hingan defile. We are in the defile of the + Cazan (Turkish for Caldron) the grandest part of the whole Danube from + Ratisbon to Galatz. Everybody is moved to expressions of admiration, all + save the “Doubter,” who declares that the Danube disappoints + him and is a wearisome and uninteresting stream. + </p> + <p> + We land at Orsova (pronounced Orehova) to pass once more into carriages + and go beyond the Lower Iron Gate. Picturesque Wallachians surround us, + with their immense hats of wool and <span class="pagenum">083</span><a + name="link083" id="link083"></a>their boots of red leather. We halt a + moment at a little brook which has the Austrian custom-house on one side + and the Roumanian on the other; a Roumanian official examines our tickets, + and allows us to pass without examination. + </p> + <p> + Speaking of the custom house reminds me of a funny incident. + </p> + <p> + When I entered Servia at Belgrade I had in my trunk a box of Austrian + cigars which I bought in Pesth. Coming out of Belgrade and going on board + the steamer I had the same cigars; the Austrian customs-official insisted + that all cigars <i>brought into</i> Austria must pay duty, and he demanded + a tax on mine in spite of the fact that the cigars came originally from + Austria and were only going again into the country of their manufacture. + Luckily their weight was less than the quantity allowed to each traveler, + otherwise he would have compelled me to pay the tariff. He would listen to + nothing except the letter of the law. + </p> + <p> + The Lower Iron Gate is less picturesque than the Upper. The mountains fall + away from the river, and the stream spreads out over a rocky bed about + fourteen hundred yards wide and a mile in length. The river falls about + twelve feet in a mile and a half, and is filled with whirlpools and + rapids, with everywhere a swift current broken into waves that dash over + the deck of the steamer in the season when the high waters prevent the + passage of boats. Below the rapids the river becomes practicable, and + there is no other natural obstacle to navigation below this point and the + sea. + </p> + <p> + At a little distance below the Iron Gate we found the steamer that was to + carry us down the Danube, and we were speedily installed in her + comfortable cabin, once more and much to our delight we found ourselves on + an “accelerated” boat, though it proved less agreeable than + the <i>Franz Josef</i>. + </p> + <p> + Before we leave the Iron Gate let us have a little gossip on the question + of the Danube. + </p> + <p> + From the days of the Romans there has been talk of a canal around the + Lower Iron Gate; and on the right bank of the river and near the Servian + village of Sip, there were traces of the work begun by the Emperor Trajan + to this end. In modern times the subject has been discussed, surveys have + been made and estimates completed for a series of canals that should carry + <span class="pagenum">084</span><a name="link084" id="link084"></a>boats + around both the Iron Gates and render the Danube navigable for its entire + length. The money could be raised without difficulty, but there is an + obstacle to the work in the shape of the political objections of Turkey. + No matter on what basis the enterprise is proposed, Turkey has always set + her face against it; the “Sick Man” is fearful that a canal + round these falls would still further impair his health and therefore he + says “No,” and repeats it with emphasis. Time and again the + subject has been discussed at Vienna and Constantinople, and always with + the same results—Turkey’s opposition. + </p> + <p> + On one occasion Austria announced that <i>nolens volens</i> the canal + would be made, and thereupon Turkey stood up on her ear—she cannot + stand easily on her feet—and threatened to go to war when the first + spade full of dirt was lifted, and on more than one occasion Turkey has + proposed to close the Danube to commerce by sealing up its mouth and + permitting nothing but fish and water to pass either way. I am not sure + that she did not want to prevent the ascent or descent of the fish through + fear that they would carry something contraband. Turkey is a goose and + doesn’t know the necessities of the nineteenth century. She ought to + close business as a nation and sell out to somebody of decent + intelligence. + </p> + <p> + It was near sunset when we went on board the steamer below the second Iron + Gate. We had made five changes in the day; large boat to four-wheeled one, + four wheeler to carriages, carriages to boat, boat to carriages at Orsova, + and carriages to boat again. We steamed on during the night, and in the + morning when I went on deck I had my first view of Turkey. As there were + no houses in sight at my first glimpse I did not think it very different + from any other country, but as soon as we sighted a town, and the domes + and minarets of the mosques came into view, the scene was changed. + Northward lay the great plain of Bulgaria, while to the south was Bosnia, + a province of the Ottoman empire. The southern bank was more hilly and + broken than the northern, and villages were more numerous there. They + looked pretty at a distance, but when you approached them nearly, the + beauty vanished. + </p> + <p> + The first Turkish town I saw was the reverse of attractive, and the + picture grew no better very fast, as we descended the river. <span + class="pagenum">085</span><a name="link085" id="link085"></a>The streets, + as I saw them from the boat, were dirty, and there were piles of rubbish + just above the landing. The people on shore were as dirty as the streets, + and I speedily made up my mind not to ask for a consular appointment to + any of the Turkish towns on the Lower Danube. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0028" id="linkimage-0028"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0095.jpg" alt="0095 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0095.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We didn’t want to go ashore very much, and we couldn’t have + gone very much if we had wanted to. There had been some cholera in Austria + in the summer, and the Turkish government had established a quarantine + against the Upper Danube. Had we chosen to land at Widin or any of the + Turkish towns where the boat stopped we should have been taken with a pair + of tongs and led into the quarantine station. We should have been smoked, + and scorched, and physicked, and poulticed, and dosed for eleven days in a + shed with a flimsy roof and flimsier sides, and with no floor, and with no + companions beyond natives of the country, fleas, rats, and stray dogs. If + we had survived it, we should have been let off at the end of that time to + see the next poor wretch put through, and if we had fallen sick under the + treatment we should have been sent to the hospital, which is about three + times as bad as the quarantine. Altogether the quarantine was not + seductive from an aesthetic point of view, and I determined to keep out of + it. If any reader of this volume ever has the choice between a kettle of + boiling oil and a Turkish quarantine I advise him to take the oil. + </p> + <p> + At all the landings where we stopped the officials made a great fuss to + keep the loafers back, for fear they would take the chol<span + class="pagenum">086</span><a name="link086" id="link086"></a>era. We had + no passengers for these landings, but we generally had letters, papers, + and merchandise. Letters and papers were received with a stick or a pair + of tongs and thrown into a tin box, which a boy instantly carried off to a + sulphur fire, where its contents could be disinfected. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0029" id="linkimage-0029"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0096.jpg" alt="0096 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0096.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Then, and not till then, could they be safely handled. Merchandise was + piled on the dock, but what disposition was made of it I could not learn. + I bought a paper of cigarette tobacco from a boy on shore. He tossed the + package on board and I then threw him half a franc. Before touching it he + pushed it into a puddle of water, and after working it about for a while, + ventured to grasp it with his dirty fingers. + </p> + <p> + Cholera couldn’t get through the encrusted skins of these fellows + much quicker than a mouse could go through the side of a teapot, and as + for the passengers and crew of the steamer, we were anything but a sickly + lot. Yet they were fearful that we should do them harm, as much as though + they were chickens and we were hawks and eagles. + </p> + <p> + We kept on our way without many incidents of importance, or rather without + any, or I should record them. We met a steamboat flying the Turkish flag + and steering clear of us; and we passed a <span class="pagenum">087</span><a + name="link087" id="link087"></a>Turkish gunboat tied up to one of the + banks, but with steam up. At every Turkish landing we went through the + farce of the tongs, but at the northern landings we had none of it. Piles + of wheat were lying on the northern bank, and generally there were groups + of picturesque Wallachians around them. We met Greek brigs and schooners + ascending the river to bring away this wheat, and at a few places we saw + these vessels lying at the shore. Their crews were a brigandish-looking + lot with red caps, baggy trow-sers, and a general resemblance to the stage + robbers in <i>Fra Diavolo</i>. + </p> + <p> + Further down the Danube we met more of these vessels I counted over sixty + in sight at one time, and there were three or four times that number at + Braila or near there. A large part of the commerce of the Black Sea is in + the hands of Greek merchants, and they are said to be very enterprising. + At Galatz and Braila there are many Greek houses and agencies. Some of the + older establishments are accounted very wealthy. So nearly do they + monopolize business that the language of commerce at Galatz is said to be + Greek with a mixture of Italian. + </p> + <p> + It was the month of Ramadan, or time of fasting, with the Moslems. No good + and faithful follower of the prophet is allowed to eat or drink between + the rising and the setting of the sun. A gun is fired at sunrise and + another at sunset, and between those discharges of artillery the fast is + strictly observed. We had a priest or “Iman” on board our + steamer, a fellow with a white turban and a long cloak or “caftan,” + and with a pleasing face fringed with a dark beard. He observed the fast + strictly and neither ate nor drank from sunrise to sunset, but he made up + for his abstinence to some extent by a free use of his narghileh or water + pipe. + </p> + <p> + He occupied a seat in the smoking room, a sort of divan where he could + double one foot beneath him and rest almost motionless for hours. He + carried in his left hand a string of beads, which he slowly told off with + the fingers, a habit somewhat analogous to the Roman Catholic custom of + counting the beads while saying prayers. With the Moslems this bead + business has no religious significance, but is merely a pastime. Once I + found him on deck saying his prayers, which he did with many genu<span + class="pagenum">088</span><a name="link088" id="link088"></a>flexions, + bows, and prostrations. He was required to keep his face turned towards + Mecca while praying, and as the boat was just then taking a somewhat + tortuous course, I am afraid he did not make a strict compliance with the + law. + </p> + <p> + At night during Ramadan the mosques are lighted and present a brilliant + appearance. There is a double row of lights on each minaret, round the + railing of the platform where the muezzin stands when he calls the people + to prayer, and the effect is quite pretty. + </p> + <p> + It was nine o’clock at night when we reached Bucharest, the capital + of Roumania, so that there was not much to be seen <i>en route</i>. But I + was able to collect some information about the country, and as it is one + of the Danubian principalities and forms an interrogation point of the + “Eastern Question,” we will make a brief examination of its + condition. + </p> + <p> + The principality of Roumania is formed by the union of the ancient + provinces of Moldavia and Wallachia. It contains about six thousand square + leagues of territory, and five million inhabitants. Four millions of the + latter belong to the Greek Church, and the rest are Armenians, Roman + Catholics, Protestants, Jews, Gentiles, Moslems, and a hundred thousand or + so don’t know what they are nor what they belong to. Then there are + inhabitants who belong somewhere else, such as Germans, Hungarians, + Greeks, English, French, Russians, and some who are ashamed to own the + nations of their birth, for reasons best known to themselves. + </p> + <p> + The various sects and nationalities get along quite well together, with + the exception of the Jews, who have a very hard time. They have been + whipped and otherwise tortured on account of their opinions or as a cloak + to robbery, and until quite recently it was not unusual to hear of the + banishment or massacre of all the Jewish inhabitants of a village, town, + or district. A better sentiment, or rather a less barbarous one, seems to + prevail within the last year or two, and it is to be hoped that the + persecutions are at an end or soon will be. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">089</span><a name="link089" id="link089"></a> + </p> + <p> + As an illustration of the treatment of the Jews, a gentleman told me that + one day in Bucharest he heard screams issuing from a yard at the back of + the hotel where he was lodged. He went to the window and saw a girl of + eighteen or twenty tied to a stake. Her clothing was stripped from her + shoulders and a strong man was whipping her while two others stood by. The + gentleman asked what she had done, and was told “She is a Jewess!” + No other cause was alleged, and the men appeared surprised when the + stranger wished to know what crime she had committed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0030" id="linkimage-0030"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0099.jpg" alt="0099 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0099.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The government of Roumania is very much like that of Servia, a + constitutional principality which is independent, except that it pays a + yearly tribute to Turkey. Servia pays twenty-five thousand pounds, and + Roumania twice that amount. A member of the Hohenzollern family, under the + title of Prince Charles of Roumania, occupies the throne, and his + hereditary right is guaranteed by the Sultan, while the independence of + Roumania is guaranteed by the seven powers that signed the treaty of Paris—Austria, + France, England, Italy, Prussia, Russia, and Turkey. The constitutional + rights of the people are like those of Servia, but the finances are not in + as good condition, for the reason that the government has created debts in + order to construct railways, and make other internal improvements. The + network of railways already finished and now constructing is very good, + and when <span class="pagenum">090</span><a name="link090" id="link090"></a>united + with the Austrian system, the resources of Roumania will be rapidly + developed. The standing army has about twenty-five thousand men, and the + militia includes every able bodied citizen. + </p> + <p> + In case of war one hundred thousand men could be put in the field in a + very short time. + </p> + <p> + It must be a great consolation to Servia and Roumania that they are able + to make so much trouble as they do, or rather that so much trouble is made + about them. They are the bases of the “Eastern Question,” and + if it were not for these two principalities, the ministers of foreign + affairs in Turkey, Russia, and Austria would have their labor reduced one + half, if not more. The correspondence that has passed between those + governments concerning the principalities, is nearly as voluminous as that + about the Alabama claims; in the past five centuries the principalities + have been the cause or the object of about a dozen wars, and very likely + will be the cause of fresh wars in time to come. + </p> + <p> + It is generally believed that Prussia and Italy don’t care a pin + what Austria and Russia do with the East, and I fancy that if England and + France could only get their money back, they wouldn’t care so much + as they did at the time of the Crimean war. I suspect they have found out + they made a mistake in backing up Turkey, and would like to get out of it + gracefully. + </p> + <p> + I once championed a fellow who had been badly treated by his; neighbor—at + least that was <i>his</i> story—and was in need of pecuniary and + other aid. I defended him morally and physically, and more especially I + loaned him money to buy a set of tools, and to clothe himself and family + until he could earn money enough to repay me. + </p> + <p> + Well, what did he do? He bought a gold watch and chain with the money, + when all the time he had a good silver watch, and then came round for more + cash. + </p> + <p> + Turkey has been borrowing money in Europe, and some of her loans have been + guaranteed by France and England. Nearly all the money has been wasted; a + very little has gone for the construction of railways, but most of it has + been put into palaces, diamonds for the women of the seraglio, ships of + war, mosques, and the like, and every day there are thousands of pounds + wasted on senseless displays. <span class="pagenum">091</span><a + name="link091" id="link091"></a>Here is a specimen case. They built an + imperial palace known as the Palace Tshiragan, when they had already + palaces enough for a dozen of Sultans. The Sultan moved into the building + when it was finished—it cost two million pounds sterling, or about + ten million dollars in gold—and he lived there just two days! Then + he moved out because he had an unpleasant dream, and the palace will never + again be occupied. It stands idle, empty, and beautiful on the banks of + the Bosphorus, and will stand thus till destroyed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0031" id="linkimage-0031"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0101.jpg" alt="0101 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0101.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + A couple of years ago the Sultan commanded that a conservatory should be + erected in his garden. Glass and other materials were ordered from Europe, + and hundreds of men were set at work. It was finished at a cost of over a + million of dollars, and His Majesty went to see it. The old idiot—I + wish to be respectful as he is a Sultan—was not in a good temper for + some reason, and determined not be pleased. He raised his languid eyes to + the roof of the building and then turned away. + </p> + <p> + “I don’t like it,” he said; “destroy it!” + </p> + <p> + And before night every piece of glass was broken, and the beautiful + conservatory was leveled. <span class="pagenum">092</span><a name="link092" + id="link092"></a>This is the way the Sultan and his government have been + using the money borrowed at a high rate of interest; and they are now + borrowing money at high interest to pay <i>that</i> interest. This thing + will go on until Turkey can borrow no more money, and then the whole + concern will collapse. When she can’t borrow any more, the + probabilities are, she will stop the interest on her present debt and give + herself no trouble about the principal. Turkey, as a nation, is very much + like a great many of her subjects. Every traveller in the East will tell + you that he is constantly appealed to to give “backsheesh”—i. + e. a gratuity—not only by those who have served him, but by those + who have rendered no service whatever, and do not expect to. From the time + you enter the Orient till the time you leave it, that word is dinned into + your ears so continually that it seems like one prolonged echo. + </p> + <p> + As the natives, young or old, masculine, feminine, or neuter (the latter + are the guardians of the harems), appeal thus to the individual foreigner, + so Turkey as a nation squats or stands before other nations, and takes up + the perpetual demand for “backsheesh.” The foreigner, when + first entering the Orient, generally submits to the appeal, and gives of + his abundance; but he soon finds that begging is universal, and that the + purse of Fortunatus would soon touch bottom. So he becomes prudent, + especially as the Oriental is never satisfied. Whether you give copper, + silver, or gold, by the piece or by the handful, is all the same, the + begging or rather the demanding continues. + </p> + <p> + The nations and moneyed men of Europe are learning the habits of the Turk, + and emulating the example of prudent travellers. Turkey is about at the + end of her borrowing, and the collapse of the Ottoman Empire is one of the + near possibilities. Russia is patiently waiting; Austria is waiting; + Prussia is waiting; and the other nations are waiting for the dissolving + view which will enable them to reconstruct the map of Europe. None of them + are likely to take any measures to hurry “the sick man” to his + end, as he is going in that direction with a rapidity that ought to be + satisfactory to the on-lookers. + </p> + <p> + Through fleets of ships and steamers we threaded our way from Galatz and + along a tortuous channel through a forest of reeds, till we passed Selino, + and were tossing on the waters of the Black sea, with the prow of our + steamer towards Odessa. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">093</span><a name="link093" id="link093"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0032" id="linkimage-0032"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0103.jpg" alt="0103 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0103.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V—THROUGH THE CRIMEA—IN AND AROUND SEVASTOPOL. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Visit to the Crimea—The Porter with the Big Books—The + Danger of Siberia—Our Entry into Sevastopol—Terrible + Reminiscences of the Crimean War—How we shirked the Cemetery—The + Great Dock-Yard of Sevastopol—We Visit a Remarkable Gunboat—What + we saw Below-Deck—The Story that our Landlord Told—An + Enterprising Tartar—The “Doubter” offers an opinion—How + the “Judge” stole a Newspaper—Adventures by the Way—The + “Doubter” gets into Trouble—We Fly to the Rescue—Eccentricities + of a Selfish Man—We Rise and Depart.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E went to Odessa, + as I said, solely to escape the quarantine on entering Turkey. Being there—less + than two hundred miles from Sevastopol—we could not resist the + temptation to pay a flying visit to the Crimea. + </p> + <p> + We reached Odessa in the morning, and found that a steamer left at two o’clock + in the afternoon for the ports of the Crimea, and as soon as we had passed + the formalities of the Custom-House and the police—no trifling + matters—we went to the steamer in question. And, by the way, they + put us through very cautiously, and also very politely, when we entered + the empire. + </p> + <p> + Three officers of the police, followed by a porter with an armful of big + books, came on board the Metternich, the steamer from Galatz, as soon as + she entered the port. They took seats at the cabin table, spread out the + passports which had been collected by the purser of the steamer, and then + began work. + </p> + <p> + They disposed of two or three persons, and then came to my case. + </p> + <p> + “Have you ever been in Russia before?” said one of the + officials in French. <span class="pagenum">094</span><a name="link094" + id="link094"></a>"Yes,” I answered. + </p> + <p> + “When was the last time?” + </p> + <p> + “In 1867.” + </p> + <p> + “Where were you?” and he looked at me very attentively. + </p> + <p> + “In a great many places,” I answered. “In Moscow, + Petersburg, Warsaw, Kazan, and in Eastern and Western Siberia. + </p> + <p> + “Ah, you have been in Siberia!” said the official, and he and + the others pricked up their ears. + </p> + <p> + “<i>Nous verrons</i>,” he continued, and he picked up one of + the big books and turned to the initial of my name. “Possibly I may + have to report your arrival at once,” he remarked, as he scanned + page after page of the volume. + </p> + <p> + When he had finished that, he went for another, and altogether he looked + through four or five books. + </p> + <p> + “There is nothing against you,” he said, as he finished the + examination, and, with a smile worthy of a diplomate of the highest rank, + he signed my passport and handed it over, with the wish that I might enjoy + my trip to the Crimea, and have <i>bon voyage partout</i>, and he was kind + enough to attend next to the passports of my companions, as we had no time + to spare in getting to the Crimean steamer. + </p> + <p> + “The Russian Company of Navigation and Commerce,” to which I + entrusted myself for the journey to Sevastopol—they call it + Sev-as-to-pol there—is a big concern. It has eighty-four steamers, + varying all the way from one hundred to thirty-six hundred tons each; nine + of them are of the largest class of ocean steamers, and two-thirds of the + rest are none of them less than nine hundred tuns. The large steamers run + from Odessa to London, to the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, to the + Red Sea, and the ports of the Indian Ocean. The other steamers navigate + the Black Sea and the adjacent waters, including several rivers that flow + into that sea and the sea of Azof. I expected to find their boats dirty + and badly managed; on the contrary, I found them clean and comfortable, + with good service in the cabin and good management on deck. + </p> + <p> + The advertised time of the Crimea boat to leave Odessa is two o’clock + in the afternoon, and it was not more than five minutes past two when our + lines were cast off. I am told that the time <span class="pagenum">095</span><a + name="link095" id="link095"></a>table of the company is strictly kept, + except of course, in case of unforseen accident. + </p> + <p> + The company was organized after the Crimean war, and has developed a great + business. The repair-shops are at Sevastopol, but very little building is + done there. All or nearly all the large steamers were built in England. + The officers are generally appointed from the navy, and their pay is + higher than in the regular service. On one of the steamers I encountered + an officer, whose acquaintance I had made in the Okhotsk Sea several years + before. “I am out of the government employ,” he said, “having + served my full term. I am commanding one of this company’s largest + steamers now; the service is harder, but I get much better pay than my + rank in the navy would bring me.” + </p> + <p> + The steamer carried us along toward Eupatoria, and I was up when we + steamed into the bay, where the English made their first descent upon the + Crimea. There are no docks or piers; nothing but a semi-circular beach, + like a bit of yellow lace on the end of a sleeve to a lady’s dress, + and an irregular double fringe of houses beyond it. Ships anchor in the + bay, and are unloaded by lighters. Our passengers were taken ashore in + boats, and the freight and baggage were unceremoniously dumped into a huge + launch. Heavy boxes and barrels were placed atop of trunks and valises, + and there was a general mess of things. + </p> + <p> + It was at Eupatoria, on Thursday, September 14th, 1854, that the allied + army landed in the Crimea. The place, the day, and the occasion will + remain for ever memorable in French, English, and Russian history. Fifty + thousand soldiers of the allied army were that day landed on Russian soil; + of that fifty thousand nearly all are now in their last sleep. They + perished in the battles of the Alma, the Tchernaya, and Inkermann; they + fell in the trenches during the siege of Sevastopol; or worn out with + privation and exposure, or suffering from wounds and disease, crept on + board the transports at Balaklava and were borne away to die in the + hospitals of Scutari or in their own native lands. In one year from that + memorable landing at Eupatoria the fifty thousand had become ten thousand; + and when the bugles sang truce and the flag of peace fluttered over the + shattered walls and smoking ruins of Sevastopol, there was scarce a + vestige remain<span class="pagenum">096</span><a name="link096" + id="link096"></a>ing of the Grand Army of the Orient, that had sailed so + proudly from the shores of France and England and assembled on Turkish + soil to prepare for the descent into the Crimea. Death spared neither rank + nor condition. Of all the officers and soldiers whose hearts beat high on + that day as they saw the tri-color and the red cross waving over the + gravelly beach at Eupatoria, very few are now alive. + </p> + <p> + There had been a fog in the morning, and occasional spittings and + spatterings of rain, but it cleared up soon after we left Eupatoria, and + the coast of the Crimea, with serrated mountains cutting the sky, and with + steppes of sand and white rock here and there, came out clear and distinct + beyond the dark waters of the Euxine Sea. Gloriously bright was the sun + when a Russian officer pointed to a distant promontory and told me that + there was Sevastopol; and deep blue was the sky, with not a patch of cloud + to mar it, when we headed our prow toward Fort Constantine, and pushed + steadily and fearlessly into the port which so long resisted the assaults + of the allied armies of England and France. Away to the left lay the + valley of the Alma, and also on our left, but nearer to us, the Inkermann + pyramid was visible to mark the field of Inkermann’s battle. White + specks of marble near the pyramid marked the resting-place of England’s + gallant dead, and not far distant was the cemetery where lay the soldiers + who fell there for the glory of France. In front, beyond the harbor, was + the tawny mound of the Malakoff, with ugly seams and ridges over all its + surface; beyond it were the Redan and the Mamelon Vert, and away to the + right was the famous Bastion du Mat. The white walls of the marine + barracks and arsenal filled much of the centre of the picture, far too + much for Russian eyes, when it is remembered that they were the walls of + ruins. + </p> + <p> + Forts Constantine and Nicholas are passed; no gun speaks from their walls, + and not a soldier is visible to note our entrance. The shattered and + ruined walls of these forts have disappeared; the present fortresses are + new, or at any rate they have undergone a vast amount of repairing since + the day the allies left Sevastopol after their work of destruction was + finished. + </p> + <p> + We steamed up to the stone pier, where a dense crowd was gathered to meet + us—in the foreground the officials of the port, <span class="pagenum">097</span><a + name="link097" id="link097"></a>behind them the well-dressed part of the + community, and further away the wide-mouthed and sheepskin-coated + peasantry of Russia. Our guide-book had told us of a good hotel a couple + of hundred yards from the landing, and as soon as we could get ashore we + went to it at a respectable pace. A crowd of hack-men sought to entrap us + into riding, but we disdained their offers. We found the hotel, and after + selecting rooms and fixing the price, we proceeded to “do” + Sevastopol. + </p> + <p> + “Get us a guide at once and a carriage for three,” I said to + the German-Russian landlord, who spoke English, French, or any other + language that you might choose to try him in. + </p> + <p> + He sent a messenger to bring what we wanted and then asked where we wished + to go. + </p> + <p> + I told him we wished to see all that we could that afternoon, and leave in + the morning for Yalta. He mentioned the Malakoff, Redan, Inkermann, and + other points, including the cemetery, and I interrupted him with: + </p> + <p> + “Never mind the cemetery; send us somewhere else.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0033" id="linkimage-0033"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8107.jpg" alt="8107 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8107.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + “Oh, then you are Americans,” he exclaimed; “every + Englishman goes at once to the cemetery, and it is the first thing he asks + for; but an American always says: “D——n the cemetery; + take me somewhere else.’” + </p> + <p> + A moment later he apologized for his intimation that my countrymen were + universally profane; but reiterated his assertion that every Englishman + visiting Sevastopol goes at once to the cemetery, while every American + prefers to do something else. I can well understand this. So many English + were buried there, that every British visitor is sure to have occasion to + look <span class="pagenum">098</span><a name="link098" id="link098"></a>after + the grave of a relative or friend; or, at all events, he has been + requested to look out the burial-place of somebody and report its + condition. Few Americans are likely to have anything more than ordinary + curiosity to attract them to the cemetery at Sevastopol. + </p> + <p> + In a little while the carriage and guide were ready, and we started. The + guide was a Greek—he may have been a Greek brigand—who had not + been long in Sevastopol, and didn’t know enough about the place to + hurt himself to any alarming extent. He spoke English fairly, but not over + elegantly, and was, on the whole, satisfactory. + </p> + <p> + We drove off along the street leading upward from the hotel, and in the + direction of the Malakoff and other fortresses of the days of the war. We + were soon on the edge of the bluff overlooking the southern harbor, and + could gaze down almost perpendicularly on the ships at anchor there. As we + looked toward the end of the harbor, we discovered just beyond it a new + building, and I asked what it was. + </p> + <p> + “That is the railway station,” was the guide’s reply. + “The government is building a railway from Sevastopol to connect + with the line from the Sea of Azof to Moscow and St. Petersburg. They have + surveyed all the line, and a good deal of it is finished. They are going + to lay the track all round this harbor, so that ships can be loaded right + from the trains and the trains from the ships.” + </p> + <p> + I looked and saw the grading ready for the rails on both sides of the + harbor and sweeping round the hill-side toward Inkermann. + </p> + <p> + Had this railway existed twenty years ago the allies would have failed to + capture Sevastopol. It was their primitive mode of transportation more + than anything else that caused Russia’s defeat. She learned then the + importance of railways, and has since been putting her knowledge into + practice. + </p> + <p> + We climbed to the top of the Malakoff, where a single Russian soldier + holds peaceful possession of what thousands were once unable to defend. + From the summit of the casemate we looked over the field, traced the lines + of the contending armies, and then turned toward Inkermann and the + defenses in that direction. The ground all round is cut and torn with + rifle-pits, <span class="pagenum">099</span><a name="link099" id="link099"></a>trenches, + approaches, and defenses, and is a picture of desolation. Sevastopol is a + mass of ruins; its inhabited dwellings are not a tenth the number of the + fallen or falling walls, and you can ride or walk through whole squares of + what were once rows of handsome edifices, but are now nothing but heaps of + stones. It is more like Pompeii than any modern city I have ever seen. + </p> + <p> + Sevastopol must have been beautiful twenty years ago; she is the reverse + of beautiful now, and I do not wonder that the Russian who walks through + her half silent and almost deserted streets vows with compressed lips and + lowering brow that Sevastopol must be avenged. She is majestic in her + ruins. One feels her greatness, or what it must have been, at every step + he takes; and no one can call Russia a barbarous nation when he looks at + the remains of her dockyards, which were her pride and glory. To destroy + these docks required months of labor on the part of French and English + engineers. What must have been the labor to create them! + </p> + <p> + There had been much talk about a new kind of gunboat then at Sevastopol, + and by the kindness of Admiral Popoff, the inventor of the system, I was + permitted to visit and examine the <i>Novgorod</i>, as the pioneer vessel + is called. She was built at Nicolayeff, on the River Bug, and was brought + to Sevastopol to be finished. Another boat of the same class, but larger, + to be called the <i>Popofka</i> was under construction, and intended to be + followed by several others. The <i>Novgorod</i> is something like our + monitors, though with a difference. When the original <i>Monitor</i> came + out we were told to imagine a cheese-box on a raft; in the present + instance you may imagine a cheese-box without any raft. The <i>Novgorod</i> + is circular, and about a hundred feet in diameter; her sides where they + rise above the water are perpendicular, but they do not rise very high—not + more than a couple of feet. From the edge toward the centre there is a + gentle incline, and this incline is covered with small cleats of wood to + enable one to preserve his foothold. About twenty-five feet from the edge + there is a circular wall of iron, fifteen inches thick, forming a turret + like that of one of our monitors. This turret is fixed and made as firm as + possible; inside of it is a movable turret, containing the guns, and + pierced with two holes, through which the <span class="pagenum">100</span><a + name="link100" id="link100"></a>guns are to be discharged. The turret is + firmly fastened to the platform which sustains the guns, and it can be + raised or lowered at will by means of machinery. The guns are eleven-inch + breech-loaders, and are very well finished; the carriages are of an + improved pattern, and altogether the turret and its contents are highly + creditable to their designers and makers. + </p> + <p> + Workmen were busy both in and out of the boat, and there was an + unsatisfactory lot of fresh paint on nearly everything, so that it was + necessary to be cautious in one’s movements. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0034" id="linkimage-0034"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9110.jpg" alt="9110 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9110.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + In spite of all my attention I found myself somewhat soiled at the end of + my journey, and on returning to the hotel I underwent a vigorous + application of turpentine. Like our monitors, the <i>Novgorod</i> is not + abundantly supplied with internal space for machinery, coal, ammunition, + stores, and crew, though there is more of it than one might at first + suppose. Her circular shape gives her an advantage in this respect, and it + is really surprising how much room you find where you expect so little. + </p> + <p> + As you descend into the engine room—her engines were made by Bird of + St. Petersburg—you find the machinery stowed so compactly and + everywhere around you, that you begin to think she is all machinery inside + like a watch, but when you are taken thence into the places where coal and + provisions are stored, you change your mind. The quarters for the crew are + cramped, as; in all ships of war, and occupy about the same space relative + to the officers’ quarters as on our monitors. The captain’s + room is quite spacious and neatly finished and furnished, and the other + officers have nothing to complain of. In the captain’s room was a + model of the boat, and I studied it attentively to ascertain the shape of + the craft below the water line. The boat does not pre<span class="pagenum">101</span><a + name="link101" id="link101"></a>serve its circular form all the way down, + or rather I should say that the circular form is maintained above the + water and an elongated one below. + </p> + <p> + Take an apple and cut the lower two-thirds of it so as to give it the + general shape of a ship below the water line, and you have the idea of the + general external shape of the <i>Novgorod</i>. She has a bow and stern + like any other ship, but neither of them is very sharp. If you look for + fine lines like those of a clipper sailer or of a fast steamship, you will + be disappointed, as the <i>Novgorod</i> is not designed for speed, nor as + a general thing, for attack. They claim that she can steam nine knots an + hour, but her steaming qualities have never been fairly tested. She is + intended for coast and harbor defence, and is made of light draft, ten or + twelve feet, so that she can lie out of the reach of deep-draft ships. She + has six screws, three on each side of her rudder, and by working the + triplets in opposite directions she can be turned in her own length, or + rather in her own diameter. The space below deck is lighted by means of a + grated flooring inside the turret, by openings in the deck. Hatchways at + several points permit of ingress and egress, and are so arranged that they + can be closed whenever necessary. + </p> + <p> + So much for the general description of the boat. Now we come to the + fighting business. When her coal and stores are all on board, she will be + sunk within a couple of feet of the water—that is to say, the + perpendicular side of the boat will rise about two feet above the surface. + In this condition she can steam to her destination under about the same + conditions of safety as those attending our monitors. Looked at from a + distance she will appear like a tea-saucer, on an enormous scale, turned + bottom upward, and having an old fashioned pill-box in the centre. In + ordinary times she has a pair of smoke-stacks, one on each side of her + turret, but these are made telescopic and will be lowered out of sight + when she goes into action. Then she has ventilators which also disappear, + and she has a temporary steering house on deck that disappears likewise. + In action she is steered from the inside in accordance with signals given + by an officer in a reasonably secure little lookout box in front of the + turret. In fact, all the deck apparatus except the turret, is made <span + class="pagenum">102</span><a name="link102" id="link102"></a>to disappear + entirely in time of battle, and the gunboat is as plain as the wardrobe of + a country clergyman on a small salary which is not promptly paid. + </p> + <p> + Nothing is visible when the boat goes into battle but the sloping deck and + the turret above it. Indeed there is not much of the deck visible, as the + boat takes in water enough to sink her down, so that all the perpendicular + side and some of her sloping portion is below the surface. The fixed + turret stands up in the centre, and inside of it is the movable turret + containing the guns. This is kept lowered until the moment for firing; + then the machinery turns it round in the required direction, and raises it + so that the holes for the muzzles of the guns come above the edge of the + fixed turret. The guns are run out till their muzzles are even with the + outside of the port-holes, and when the proper aim is obtained, they are + fired and instantly lowered, or they may be kept in place and reloaded, + according to the will of the commander. They are handled, so to speak, by + machinery, a couple of rods in the hands of their captain performing all + the work of aiming, one rod serving to raise and depress their muzzles, + and another to move the turret horizontally. + </p> + <p> + Steam has been brought into satisfactory subjection in the <i>Novgorod</i>. + The turret is controlled and the guns are operated by steam; steam propels + the boat, and may be made to steer it. Very little hand labor is required, + and the boat may carry fewer men than other war-ships of her capacity. She + is built throughout in the strongest manner, and her constructors are very + proud of her. + </p> + <p> + For harbor and coast defence they claim great advantages over the old + style of war ships, and I was told that it was the intention of the + government to build a considerable number of ships of the <i>Novgorod</i> + pattern. They were to be stationed at the ports of the Black Sea, and + along the Baltic, and it was thought they could made things lively for a + blockading squadron. The <i>Novgorod</i> was of a hundred and the <i>Popofka</i> + a hundred and twenty-five feet diameter; whether the others would be of + greater or less size I am unable to say. Other ships of war are to be + constructed on the Black sea, and in course of time the Russians hope to + bring their Black Sea fleet up to something <span class="pagenum">103</span><a + name="link103" id="link103"></a>like its old standard. The arsenal at + Sevastopol is theoretically the property of the Russian Company of + Navigation and Commerce, and contains their repair shops, but practically + it is the property of the government, and will be more and more so as time + rolls on. + </p> + <p> + We spent the evening in the hotel and on the cliff overlooking the harbor, + and tried to imagine the scenes of twenty years ago. + </p> + <p> + “The rocket’s red glare and bombs bursting in air” have + ceased over Sevastopol—let us hope for ever—and all was calm + as though the spot had never known the horrors of war. The loquacious + landlord told us many stories of the siege, and of the fortunes of + Sevastopol before and since the war. “Now we are to have better + times,” he said; “the railway will be completed next year, and + we shall then have a line of steamers direct to Constantinople. + Capitalists are coming here to start business, and we shall hope for + commercial activity. The government has determined that Sevastopol shall + rise again, and we feel sure that it <i>will</i> rise.” + </p> + <p> + Before the war the city had little short of thirty thousand inhabitants. + Now it has about five thousand, but the number is slowly increasing. With + a revival of business and a restoration of the naval dockyard, Sevastopol + will resume its old activity and importance and become again the mistress + of the Euxine. Her harbor is one of the finest in the world, and her + geographical position renders it of great value. + </p> + <p> + The landlord escorted me to my room, and as he set the dripping and + guttering candle on a rickety table, his loquacity continued: + </p> + <p> + “This,” said he, “is the room that was occupied by + Kinglake, when he came here to study the siege of Sevastopol. He was a + good fellow, and, when he left, he gave my daughter a new sovereign and + she has kept it ever since. Of course you have read his history of the + war? Many officers who come here say he has made some mistakes, but no man + can be expected to get everything right.” + </p> + <p> + I went to sleep and dreamed of assaults on the Malakoff and Redan, and of + the morning when the grey regiments which were Russia’s pride and + glory burst through the pall of fog, and fell upon the unexpecting allies + in their camp at Inkermann. Clash <span class="pagenum">104</span><a + name="link104" id="link104"></a>of steel, roll of musketry, and the + diapason of artillery resounded through the night and made my slumber + unrefreshing. I recalled the time when the whole civilized world turned + its eyes upon the Crimea, and with what an electric thrill was received + the announcement “Sevastopol has fallen!” And here in the + city, where for many months the sounds of war were heard almost without + cessation, all was now the stillness of a long peace. Waking, I could + hardly realize that I was in Sevastopol. Sleeping, I lived again in the + midst of the strife, and participated in the exciting events that have + found a place in history. + </p> + <p> + In the morning we set out for Yalta in a carriage which we hired of an + enterprising Tartar who demanded his pay in advance. He demanded and we + refused, and the more he wanted his money on the spot the more he didn’t + get it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0035" id="linkimage-0035"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0114.jpg" alt="0114 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0114.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + In a discussion between Capital and Labor the former generally has the + best of it, and the result of our discussion proved no exception to the + rule. Labor was compelled to accept our terms and receive its pay when the + work was done, but it required a good half-hour to bring Labor to terms. + We were entrusted to the care of a good natured but rather stupid driver, + and to three horses harnessed abreast and full of energy. We trotted out + of the ruin-lined streets, and soon left out of sight the most famous city + of southern Russia. + </p> + <p> + The day was beautiful—a sort of a hazy Indian-summer sky—and + if we had ordered the weather to suit us it could not have <span + class="pagenum">105</span><a name="link105" id="link105"></a>been more + delightful. We drove through the field of Balaklava. How few there are now + living of those who made Balaklava famous? + </p> + <p> + We made a brief halt at the edge of the plain where the immortal Light + Brigade rode to glory and the grave, and pressed unflinchingly forward as + the pitiless iron from Russian batteries tore through their ranks, and + covered the ground with dead and dying heroes. One of our party recited + Tennyson’s well-known poem on this event, and I think we all felt, + down to the depths of our hearts, the full force of the closing lines: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + “Honor the brave and bold; + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Long shall the tale be told, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Yea, when our babes are old, + </p> + <p class="indent30"> + How they rode onward. + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + When can their glory fade? + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + O! the wild charge they made, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Honor the Light Brigade, + </p> + <p class="indent30"> + Noble Six Hundred!” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + We visited the little village of Balaklava, and in a Russian rowboat + paddled in the miniature land-locked harbor and out to its entrance, where + we danced on the waves that rolled inward from the sea. Then we drove to + Baidar, a miserable village, where we supped on tea, eggs, and bread, and + breakfasted on eggs, bread, and tea—nothing else—and slept on + beds of the most impromptu character. I covered myself with my overcoat + and travelling shawl, the Judge solaced himself with a table-cloth and a + fish-net, while the “Doubter” was kept warm by a late copy of + the London Times in addition to his overcoat. It was a rough night, and we + were off early in the morning, as, indeed, anybody would be with such + accommodations. If you want to get a man up in good season, put him to + sleep on a pile of rocks, or a bed that dates from the Silurian period, + with the chief qualities of roughness and solidity. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” averred his belief that there was not so bad a + hotel in all Russia as the one he occupied in Baidar; and ever afterwards + when we wished to get him into a regular cast-iron passion we had only to + refer to his night’s lodging in the interior of the Crimea. And I + really think that he was unfairly treated, as the Judge afterward made + confession of having taken away <span class="pagenum">106</span><a + name="link106" id="link106"></a>the full sheet of the Times soon after + they retired, thus leaving the “Doubter” nothing but “the + supplement.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0036" id="linkimage-0036"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0116.jpg" alt="0116 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0116.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + An hour after leaving Baidar we passed through a stone gateway, and came + out upon the sea. Or, rather, we came out upon the edge of a mountain, and + looked down more than a thousand feet upon the waters kissed by the rising + sun, and broken into little billows just touched with crests of foam by a + gentle breeze from the east. Away on the horizon and below our line of + sight lay a stratum of white clouds, and in the far distance to the left + the wind and sun were chasing away the remains of the darkness of the + November night, and near at hand on the right and left lay the mountains + with great, rugged tops, round which half a dozen eagles were whirling and + occasionally disappearing in the floating masses of light clouds. Down + below, toward the upper; part of the peninsula, the mountains sloped away + but so slightly as to make us wonder how we would find a passage among + them. + </p> + <p> + I have become familiar with a good deal of scenery in the past twenty + years, but I know few things that can surpass this first view of the sea + on the road from Sevastopol to Yalta. The scene bursts suddenly upon you. + At one minute you are among the hills and forests and sparsely scattered + fields, where you have been travelling ever since you left Balaklava, and + you are voting the <span class="pagenum">107</span><a name="link107" + id="link107"></a>whole thing a trifle monotonous. You pass through the + gateway, which is arched and bastioned like a small fortress, and what a + change in the picture! You are in a narrow road, with scarcely sufficient + standing place for the carriage and horses; the crag at your left seems + ready to topple over and cover you, and as you look up a thousand or + twelve hundred feet along its gray sides, you perceive deep and irregular + fissures in which, here and there, trees are clinging quite safe from the + woodman’s axe, and forming a secure resting for the eagles that + circle about them. Their prevailing grey color is diversified by the tints + peculiar to volcanic rocks everywhere, and they cut the sky with a sharp + and jagged outline whose every angle is rendered more distinct by the + great elevation to which the mountains rise above you. This mountain-chain + stretches about thirty miles along the coast; it stands bold and upright + from the sea above Balaklava, but gradually trends away from the water + until, at Yalta, it is more than five miles distant. + </p> + <p> + Here, at the Baidar-gate, the strip of land is nearly a mile wide, but as + you look down the dizzy distance you could solemnly aver that the width is + not more than a hundred yards. The strip of land shelves rapidly, and is + dotted with patches of forest, rough boulders, and the general <i>debris</i> + of the mountain-chain, and stippled and streaked with little rivulets that + trickle onward toward the sea. There are sharp ridges and deep ravines, + barren patches and woody dells; the whole forming a favorite resort of the + game-birds and the beasts that make this region an attractive one for the + hunter. + </p> + <p> + Here and there you see a house nestling and crouching in a lovely valley, + and as you proceed on your way you find the houses and villas becoming + every hour more and more numerous. The high cliffs shelter the land from + northerly winds, and as the sun pours full and strong over the sea, a + climate of peculiar warmth is developed that gives this part of the Crimea + a fertility of almost tropical luxuriance. The productions of this region + are of wonderful variety and excellence. + </p> + <p> + We whirled down and along the front of the mountains, hour after hour, and + with new combinations of land and ocean constantly presented to our eyes. + We halted at Alupka, where is the palace of Prince Woronzoff, and at the + hotel we had a com<span class="pagenum">108</span><a name="link108" + id="link108"></a>fortable meal, which our morning ride had prepared us to + enjoy. We washed it down with the excellent wine of the Crimea, bearing + the Woronzoff brand, and grown in the vineyards that dot all the + hill-sides in the last dozen miles of our drive. After a two hours’ + halt we were on the road again, and passing the palace of Livadia, the + summer residence of the Emperor, and one of the prettiest spots in the + world, we reached Yalta an hour before sunset, having made one of the most + delightful rides that can fall to the lot of the traveller. + </p> + <p> + Yalta is the Long Branch or Newport of Southern Russia, and many persons + go there to spend the summer and autumn. The situation is charming and the + climate delicious; the Emperor has a palace close at hand, and as he + spends every autumn there, it is no wonder that Yalta has become + fashionable. The principal street along the sea-shore has a fringe of + hotels, and so great was the rush at the time of our visit, that there was + a difficulty in obtaining rooms. Prices were high, and from a + contemplation of the bill of fare, I should think the hotel-keepers were + anxious to make a fortune in a short time and retire from business. + </p> + <p> + Picturesque Russians and Crim-Tartars wander through the streets, making a + marked contrast to the fashionables from Odessa and Moscow. In the market + the “Doubter” got into trouble by handling and tasting some + fruit, and was compelled to buy it in order to get out of the scrape. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0037" id="linkimage-0037"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9118.jpg" alt="9118 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9118.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He had an inordinate passion for handling everything (except his own money + when bills were to be paid) and this propensity served sometimes to + increase our annoyances, and occasionally our expenses. At a church in + Odessa he broke a part of the fixtures on <span class="pagenum">109</span><a + name="link109" id="link109"></a>the altar because he insisted upon picking + them up, and he only escaped trouble by pretending not to understand what + was said to him. He didn’t rely much on his senses of hearing and + seeing, but when it came to smelling, tasting, and feeling—particularly + the latter—he was on hand. He wasn’t satisfied with seeing a + picture but he must feel it and smell it, and not till then did he believe + in its existence. The same was the case with nearly everything else that + could be touched; and when he saw things in a show-case he wanted them + opened for his amusement and manipulation. During his journey in the East + he felt nearly everything within his reach, except an impulse of + generosity, and with that he had no desire to become acquainted. + </p> + <p> + We rose early in Yalta, and were off for Odessa, where we arrived without + accident or delay. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0038" id="linkimage-0038"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5119.jpg" alt="5119 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5119.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">110</span><a name="link110" id="link110"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0039" id="linkimage-0039"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0120.jpg" alt="0120 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0120.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI—ACROSS THE BLACK SEA. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Visit to a Russian Police Office—Smith, and what he did—A + bad lot of passports—A race after a Governor in a Drosky—More + Backsheesh—Delicate administration of a bribe—An obliging + subordinate—Attempt at a swindle—Scraping an acquaintance—High + life on the Black Sea—Muscovite ladies—Sunrise on the Euxine—Worshipping + the Sun—Stamboul—Passing Quarantine—On the Bosphorus—A + magnificent spectacle—The Castle of Europe—Palaces and Villas—Domes + and Minarets—The Golden Horn—In front of Constantinople—Rapacity + of Boatmen—Turkish Thieves—Streets of the City.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HERE is nothing + very interesting about Odessa, for the reason that it is a place of no + antiquity. + </p> + <p> + At the end of the last century it was a Tartar village bearing the name of + Hadji Bey, and containing a dozen houses and a small fortress of Turkish + construction. Now it is a grand city with one-hundred and fifty thousand + inhabitants, and having an extensive commerce. Ships of all nations lie at + its wharves, and you see English, French, American, and nearly all other + foreign names among the merchants established there. Its greatest + export-commerce is in wheat, which goes from Odessa to all parts of the + Mediterranean and also to England. + </p> + <p> + The Black Sea wheat formerly found a market in America, but we have + changed all that with our immense grain production in the West and + California. + </p> + <p> + It was no small matter to get out of Russia. I sent the passports of our + party to the police-bureau on Thursday—two days before the time set + for our departure—and was told that they were <i>en règle</i> for + the journey to Constantinople. Saturday morn<span class="pagenum">111</span><a + name="link111" id="link111"></a>ing I paid a visit of politeness to the + American consul, Mr. Smith, and just as I was leaving him he asked if he + could be of any service. + </p> + <p> + “Thank you,” I replied, “I know of nothing you can do + for me except to follow me with your good wishes. I don’t want to + borrow any money nor obtain an introduction to any official.” + </p> + <p> + “Have you arranged your passports?” + </p> + <p> + “O, yes,” I answered with a confident smile. “I have + travelled too much to neglect any of the formalities. The clerk of the + hotel sent our passports to the police and had the proper <i>visas</i> + attached.” + </p> + <p> + As I spoke I took my passport from my pocket, and handed it over with an + air of triumph. He unfolded the document and examined it. His turn was to + smile now, and he “smole.” + </p> + <p> + “All wrong, my dear sir,” he said, “there is no <i>visa</i> + for departure; nothing but the <i>visa pour entrer</i> and the <i>visa de + séjour</i>.” + </p> + <p> + Here was a pretty caldron of piscatorial products. It was one o’clock, + and the steamer was to sail at four; it was Saturday afternoon, and the + police-bureau closed at twelve o’clock on the last day of the week. + </p> + <p> + “I will endeavor to get you out of your trouble,” said the + kind hearted Smith—I wish all Smiths were like him and the world + would then be much better off than it is—“we will jump into a + drosky and do some fast driving; and as I know the Governor and the + Police-Master I think the matter can be fixed.” + </p> + <p> + We hired a drosky and told the driver to put in his best licks and he + might expect something to get drunk on. This appeal to the noble + sentiments of an isvoshchik’s heart roused his ambition and he put + in the “licks” aforesaid, with a whip weighing about three + pounds in the handle and two in the lash. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0040" id="linkimage-0040"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0122.jpg" alt="0122 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0122.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We went forward as if impelled by the boot of His Brimstonic Majesty, and + as the narrow drosky bounded from side to side the two passengers had hard + work to hold on. + </p> + <p> + We were soon at the Governor’s, and entered a room filled with a + crowd of all sorts of people, some dirty, some dirtier, and some dirtiest, + and a few looking clean and respectable. The Consul gave his name and rank + to a soldier who disappeared <span class="pagenum">112</span><a + name="link112" id="link112"></a>through a narrow doorway and soon returned + to escort us into the gubernatorial presence. + </p> + <p> + The governor was a well-proportioned man of fifty-five or sixty years, + with white hair, a clean-shaven face, and regular, pleasing features. He + was in civilian dress, and his manners were easy and unaffected like those + of the higher class of Russians generally. In his presence one might + easily forget the official in the kind and courteous gentleman. If he had + an iron hand, it was most skillfully covered with velvet. Napoleon said, + “Scratch a Russian and you will find a Tartar.” That may be + so, but it is unnecessary to indulge in scratching when the Russian is as + amiable as we generally find him. It is like removing the paint from a + beautiful picture to get at the rough canvas. + </p> + <p> + The case was stated to His Excellency, and we obtained a note requesting + the police to attend to the matter and put the passports in order, if + there was no objection. “I shall be at the steamer,” said the + Governor, “as my sister is to be one of the passengers, and should + there be any trouble, please tell me.” We bowed ourselves out and + were off. + </p> + <p> + The Turkish consulate was close at hand, and so we halted there and + obtained the <i>visa</i> to enter the Ottoman Empire, not <span + class="pagenum">113</span><a name="link113" id="link113"></a>necessary, + but a good thing to have. It might be compared to some of the quack + medicines of the present day—warranted not to harm the patient even + if they do not benefit him. + </p> + <p> + At the police-bureau the chief was absent, but his second in command + happened to be in. He spoke French fluently, and when I had told him that + it was no fault of mine, but the carelessness or downright dishonesty of + the hotel-clerk that had brought us into trouble, he said he would see + what could be done. The office was technically “closed,” but + the Consul had influence enough to gain admission, and I had faith that + blarney and “backsheesh,” especially the latter, would do the + rest. + </p> + <p> + We were referred to a subordinate, a seedy and decayed party who looked as + if he had a large family and proportionately small pay. I thought here was + a case of putting something where it would do the most good, and intimated + as much to the Consul. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, that will be right,” replied Smith; “do as you + please, but I must not know about it.” + </p> + <p> + While the subordinate was intimating that office hours were over and he + could do nothing, I handed him the three passports and with them as many + roubles. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0041" id="linkimage-0041"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8123.jpg" alt="8123 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8123.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + As his fingers closed on them he smiled sweetly, and no doubt thought of + his family and the comforts this honestly earned money would procure for + them. + </p> + <p> + He opened one of the passports, and with an exclamation that amounted to + “Really I did not understand how it was,” sat down at his + desk. + </p> + <p> + In a quarter of an hour the passports were all <i>en regle</i>; I was + <span class="pagenum">114</span><a name="link114" id="link114"></a>happy, + Smith was happy, and the subordinate was happy. We went to the hotel, + where the Consul took a parting glass of wine with us, received our thanks + and we his blessing. Then we paid our bill and went to the steamer. + </p> + <p> + I am unable to say whether the clerk of the hotel was grossly careless or + dishonest. Had we gone on board with our passports as he returned them to + us, we should have been liable to detention until the next steamer, three + days later. In that case the hotel might have profited by our enforced + delay, and I have a strong suspicion that the fellow had an eye to + business and deliberately deceived us. I expressed my opinion of the whole + affair, and we did not part friends. + </p> + <p> + The steamer sailed exactly thirty-five seconds after her advertised time, + an example of promptness worthy of imitation. She was an English-built + ship, belonging to the Russian Company of Navigation and Commerce, and + rejoiced in the name of Elborus. Officers and crew were Russian, with the + possible exception of the chief engineer. + </p> + <p> + We had a motley crowd of passengers in the cabin. We were three Americans, + and there was a fourth—a native of the land of the free—a + woman whose talkative power was sufficient to bore a tunnel through Mount + Washington, and whose mission was literature and matrimony. She was en + route to Constantinople to marry a Turk, but I afterwards learned that she + changed her mind and married a Greek. Then there were two or three + Englishmen travelling for pleasure, several Swiss, German, and French + merchants and commercial travellers, all of them chatty and most of them + agreeable, and there were half a dozen Russians, mostly of the gentler + sex. + </p> + <p> + We had not been many hours at sea before a majority of the passengers were + on speaking terms, and even endeavoring to make the time pass pleasantly. + There was no distinction of age or sex in conversation; everybody was + polite, and nobody took offence at being addressed without the formality + of an introduction. Nowhere in the world will you find travellers more + civil to each other than on the steamers which plough the waters of the + Orient. + </p> + <p> + Among the Russian passengers were three ladies (mother and daughters) from + St. Petersburgh, sister and nieces of the Governor <span class="pagenum">115</span><a + name="link115" id="link115"></a>of Odessa. The younger of the daughters + was a Lady of Honor at the court of the Empress, and the family evidently + belonged to the <i>haute noblesse</i> of Russia. + </p> + <p> + If anybody fancies that the high society of Russia is at all “stuck + up,” like some of our American aristocrats, he would have been + enlightened very materially had he made the voyage with that party. There + was no forwardness or pertness on the part of the young ladies, neither + was there any frigid reserve or <i>mauvaise honte</i>. They conversed + easily and with perfect selfpossession, and when one of the passengers + produced a variety of mechanical puzzles for the amusement of the party, + they readily joined in the sport. If they were brought up at boarding and + finishing schools I must admit that the Russian educational establishments + are more successful in their work than the majority of their American and + English rivals. + </p> + <p> + The deck was crowded with third-class passengers, the majority of them + being Russian pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem. Two priests were with + them, and they held frequent service, in which all the members of their + flock joined. One of these services, which I happened to witness, was + peculiarly impressive. + </p> + <p> + The after saloon was on a level with the main deck, and consequently its + roof, which formed our promenade, looked down upon the humbler part of the + ship. The first morning out, I rose with the dawn and went above. The sea + was calm and smooth almost to glassiness; there was not a breath of wind + nor the least feather of cloud or fog. Most of the stars had been paled by + the light of the coming day; only a few were twinkling here and there as + if struggling to maintain their existence as long as it were possible. + They slowly faded and disappeared as the gleam of gold on the eastern + horizon spread outward and upward, and betokened the approach of the sun. + By-and-by a rim of fire appeared, and each moment grew larger till at last + the full circle of light and heat was revealed above the sea. It was + sunrise on the water, duller and tamer perhaps than in the midst of high + waves, fierce winds, and fleecy clouds, but still a sunrise of great + beauty. + </p> + <p> + A few minutes after I went on deck the pilgrims assembled for service. The + priests read the prayers in full, sonorous tones, and the people bowed or + knelt in unison, in accordance with the <span class="pagenum">116</span><a + name="link116" id="link116"></a>formula of the Græco-Russian Church. With + their faces towards the east, they seemed to be saluting the rising sun, + and it would have needed little play of imagination to picture them as + pagan fire-worshippers instead of devout followers of Christ. The sun + slowly rose while the service was in progress, and when the prayers were + concluded his entire disk was above the horizon. A scene of worship more + impressive than this it has rarely been my fortune to witness. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0042" id="linkimage-0042"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0126.jpg" alt="0126 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0126.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + In good weather a steamer of ordinary speed can make the run from Odessa + to Constantinople in about forty hours. At daylight on the second morning + we were at the entrance of the Bosphorus, but it was still so dark that we + could see little more than the lighthouses and a very dim outline of the + forts that command the passage. + </p> + <p> + Just inside the entrance we cast anchor and waited for the visit of the + health officer. Until this was obtained we could go no farther, and hold + no communication with the shore. The quarantine regulations in the Orient + are very rigid, and the least violation of them subjects the offender to + severe penalties. + </p> + <p> + The health officer came at six o’clock, and after a brief inspection + granted us a clean bill of health. Then we might have gone <span + class="pagenum">117</span><a name="link117" id="link117"></a>on, but a + tantalizing fog made its appearance and delayed us an hour or more. Then + it lifted a little and soon shut down, and it kept lifting and shutting + alternately, so that we anchored twice afterwards; drifted some of the + time, and moved very slowly for the rest of our way. + </p> + <p> + It was a disappointment to nearly all of us, for we had great anxiety to + see the shores of the Bosphorus, about whose beauty we had heard so much. + We had now and then a slight glimpse—all the more aggravating—but + did not get a fair view of the shores until we were in sight of the great + city. + </p> + <p> + Some days later, when the sky was clear and the air soft, I made a journey + on the Bosphorus, as I was determined not to miss it. + </p> + <p> + The length of the Bosphorus from the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmora is a + little more than twenty miles, as a ship runs through; the shores are + longer owing to their sinuosity. The strait is supposed to have been + formed by an earthquake, as there is a similarity in the rocks of the two + shores, and furthermore, there are on each side seven promontories + corresponding to as many bays opposite. Its width at the narrowest point + is about six hundred yards, and it enlarges in places to eight hundred, a + thousand, fifteen hundred, two thousand, and twenty-five hundred yards. In + the Gulfs of Bey-Kos and Buyuk-Dere it is more than three thousand yards + wide. + </p> + <p> + The pen may give the figures that indicate the distances and heights, and + depths, but no pen can give an adequate description of the pictures + presented by the shores of the Bosphorus. + </p> + <p> + As we enter from the Black Sea we pass between the two castles, the one of + Europe and the other of Asia. The hills are steep and rugged, and appear + capable of easy defence; as we move along we have a succession of crags + and rocks and forests; of villages, chateaux, and palaces in such + profusion that we should be wearied were it not for the great beauty of + the scene. For several miles the Asiatic side is but thinly inhabited, and + the shore appears almost in its primitive condition. There is little else + than mountains and gorges, lonely valleys, deep set and secluded, forests + of varying colors fringing the cliffs and climbing the sloping sides of + the hills, and below them the dark water in which the whole picture is at + times reflected. <span class="pagenum">118</span><a name="link118" + id="link118"></a>On the European side the tableau is much the same for + only a mile or so. Then begins a succession of edifices that show how much + the progress of settlement has clung to the northern shore. Village after + village, palace after palace, follow in such rapid succession that it is + difficult to imagine them little else than a continuous line, which they + indeed become, long before the towers and domes and minarets of the city + come into sight. The irregularity of the shores adds to the picturesque + effect; were they straight like the banks of an artificial canal, much of + their beauty would be lost. + </p> + <p> + The real luxury of architecture on the Bosphorus, as we approach from the + Black Sea, begins at Buyuk-Dere. This place has been called the most + charming pleasure resort in the world. I am hardly prepared to endorse + that opinion, but am willing to say it is one of the prettiest I have ever + seen. Several of the foreign embassies have their summer residences here, + and their palaces are quite prominent; the rich merchants of + Constantinople dwell there in considerable numbers, and have fitted up + their houses with very little regard for expense. The houses skirt the + shore, and some of them climb the hills in terraces; there are groves of + trees and a fine promenade near the water, so that the combined effect is + very pretty. From here, as we go on, there is an uninterrupted succession + of villages and palaces, whose names would be almost meaningless, but + whose beauty as we view them from the water can never be forgotten. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">119</span><a name="link119" id="link119"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0043" id="linkimage-0043"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0129.jpg" alt="0129 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0129.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + By-and-by the fringe of villages becomes larger and deeper, and we are + told that Constantinople is in sight. Its hills rise steeply so that the + houses seem tost and in terraces; their varying colors appear as numerous + as those of the kaleidoscope, and the domes and minarets that crown many + of the elevations give the picture an emphatically oriental tinge. We are + in front of the entrance to the Golden Horn with Pera and Golata on our + right, and Stamboul, with its Seraglio Point, crowned with the dome of + Santa Sophia on our left. Beyond are the waves of the Sea of Marmora, and + as we look over them the Isles of the Princes rise between us and the + horizon. + </p> + <p> + The harbor is dotted with shipping, and scores of restless steamers dart + to and fro with their cargoes of passengers. Hun<span class="pagenum">121</span><a + name="link121" id="link121"></a>dreds of caiques and other row boats are + visible, and as our steamer drops her anchor, they throng around her in + great numbers. The boatmen shout and gesticulate and push and fight, until + they give us a fair indication of what the tower of Babel might have been + just before the suspension of work on that edifice. Occasionally one of + them falls into the water, but he is soon out again and shouting as wildly + as ever. Evidently we shall not lack conveyance to the shore. The boatmen + are a heterogeneous lot. They are Turks, Arabs, Maltese, Greeks, Italians, + French, and Syrians, and there are many who would be unable, and others + unwilling, to state their nationality. They are a picturesque crowd of + thieves, most of them wearing the oriental dress, speaking a jargon of + Italian and Greek and Turkish, with now and then one who has picked up a + little English. They are difficult to manage, and not unfrequently, when + they are out of sight of the police, indulge in robbing solitary + passengers who engage them for journeys up and down the shores of the + Bosphorus. + </p> + <p> + After running the gauntlet of the custom-house at Constantinople, we are + at liberty to make our way to the hotels. All hotels are in the Pera + quarter, on the east side of the Golden Horn, and there are always several + runners for each establishment that board the steamer as soon as her + anchor is down, and are ready to carry passengers and their baggage to the + hostel-ries. No matter what hotel you intend to patronize, you are + conducted up the steep hill, on whose elongated top the Grand Rue de Pera + is situated. + </p> + <p> + You find that the street is very narrow and very dirty, even though a + prolonged residence in New York may have given you modified notions about + the ordinary condition of metropolitan highways and byways. There are + pools and patches of mud that would have a slimy consistency if it were + not frequently stirred by the feet of men and horses; and there are + frequent heaps of filth that have waited so long for the scavenger that + they have ceased to hope for his coming, and have settled down into the + calm resignation of deep despair. The pavement is uneven and in very bad + condition; it appears to have been wholly neglected since it was first + laid down, and will probably continue to be neglected for years to come. + <span class="pagenum">122</span><a name="link122" id="link122"></a>The + Moslem rarely repairs anything, as he believes that he is interfering with + the work of God if he attempts to stop the progress of decay. He builds a + house, a mosque, or a bridge—he erects a monument to the memory of + his father or brother—he plants a tree and fences a field, and then + rests content. The edifice may crumble, the monument may fall, or the tree + may wither; he rolls his eyes to heaven and exclaims: “Inshallah”—as + God wills it—his duty is ended. + </p> + <p> + Of course there are exceptions to the rule. Self-interest sometimes + overcomes religious scruples in the East as well as elsewhere, and the + Moslem will shrewdly conclude that the will of God requires him to + preserve the gifts that Heaven has bestowed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0044" id="linkimage-0044"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5132.jpg" alt="5132 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5132.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">123</span><a name="link123" id="link123"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0045" id="linkimage-0045"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0133.jpg" alt="0133 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0133.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII—CONSTANTINOPLE—THE CITY OF DOGS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Human Camels—Canine Colors—The Dogs of Istamboul—Their + Appearance and Moral Character—How the Turks regard them—“Inshallah”—Constantinopoli-tan + Dogsologies—An Oriental Dog-fight—Sagacious Brutes—Cultivating + Canine Society—“Standing Treat” among the Curs—Four-footed + Campaigns—Dog-Districts—The Hostile Armies—A Brilliant + Strategic Move—Charge of the Light (Dog) Brigade—Advance of + the Chef de Garbage—The “Army of the West” in Retreat—The + “Doubter’s” Mishap—Full Details of a Coat’s + Detailing—An Israelite in whom there was Guile—No More + Sandwiches for Me, Sir-r-r!</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">O</span>UR baggage is on + the backs of hamals or porters, and we follow it and them like mourners at + a funeral. + </p> + <p> + The first objects to attract our attention are some ill-conditioned curs + of low degree, full-blooded curs, with not a particle of respectability + about them except in very rare cases. They are nearly all of the + nondescript sort which the ruralist designates as “yaller dog,” + without reference to his color. Yellow is the prevailing hue; but there + are black, brown, white, and spotted dogs among them, and one of my + friends avers that he has seen green, red, blue, and pink dogs over in + Stamboul. But I fear he had tarried too long in a certain <i>café</i> + there, and partaken of the cup which necessarily inebriates while it + cheers. + </p> + <p> + There is a good deal of wolfishness about these dogs both in habits and + appearance. They have no home, they live in the streets, and hunt for + their living wherever there is a chance to find anything. You see them + lying in the open street, on the pavement where men and horses are + passing, or on the narrow strip of sidewalk, as if the place belonged to + them. Under very favorable circumstances they crouch in doorways, but in + so doing <span class="pagenum">124</span><a name="link124" id="link124"></a>they + render themselves liable to be kicked soundly whenever an occupant of the + premises happens along. When they lie in the street men and horses + generally step over or around them; I say generally, as neither men nor + horses are very particular, and you not unfrequently hear a prolonged yelp + or howl from some unfortunate cur whose leg, tail, or body, has received + the impress of a human or equine foot. You see dogs with frightful wounds + received from horse shoes, and others with huge scars where such wounds + have been healed. In the Grand Rue de Pera and other streets where + carriages can circulate, the sleeping dogs are occasionally run over and + either wounded or killed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0046" id="linkimage-0046"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0134.jpg" alt="0134 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0134.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + I was one day an unwilling witness of one of these occurrences. Within a + yard of where I stood a carriage-wheel passed over a dog, lacerating him + in such a way that he died in a few minutes. But while he lived his + howling was fearful to hear, and it rang in my ears long after the poor + brute had ceased to breathe. + </p> + <p> + The Turks in general care little about the sufferings of the dogs, or in + fact of any living thing. Now and then, one of them shows a little + kindness to the animals, allows them to sleep in his doorway, and + sometimes feeds them with any refuse food he has at hand. The Christian + inhabitants of the place are more amiably disposed towards the brutes, and + frequently kill them in order to end their misery. <span class="pagenum">125</span><a + name="link125" id="link125"></a>There have been several raids upon the + dogs in the Pera quarter, but the animals are so numerous and the + opposition of the Turks is so great, that the numbers are not much + diminished. Though the Turks consider the dog an unclean beast and have no + love for him, they have a great aversion to taking life on the principle I + have before mentioned of non-interference with the will of God. + </p> + <p> + “If God wished the dogs to die,” said a Turk one day, in + discussing the question, “he would sweep them off by a pestilence. + Inshallah! they shall live.” + </p> + <p> + A practical reason for maintaining these dogs in Constantinople is that + they are excellent scavengers. In this respect they are regarded exactly + as are the buzzards that abound in some of our southern cities. + </p> + <p> + Wherever you see a fresh garbage heap in Constantinople there you will see + a group of dogs. They are engaged in making a living, and they turn over + all parts of the heap in search of something edible. Nothing comes amiss. + A crust of bread, a bit of meat, a bone, fleshless or otherwise, is + immediately seized and appropriated. + </p> + <p> + I used to watch the dogs when thus foraging, and was surprised to observe + their apparent friendliness. When one found anything he ate it without + being disturbed by his companions; but he never lingered long over it. + Sometimes one would seize hold of a large bone and another would attach + himself at the same moment to the opposite end. Then began a discussion of + growls, snorts, and bites, and very often the whole party would go in and + there would be a general scrimmage, in which the dogs would be in a + struggling heap, doggedly clinging to the bone of contention. + </p> + <p> + One afternoon I happened to witness a fight of this sort in which half a + dozen dogs were engaged. There was one little fellow in the lot, and while + his big friends were quarreling at a lively rate he slipped in beneath the + belly of the largest and came out in the same way, bringing the bone and + making off with it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0047" id="linkimage-0047"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9136.jpg" alt="9136 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9136.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + So intent were they upon their unpleasantness that they did not observe + the abstraction until little dog and big bone were out of sight around the + corner. They looked around an instant with their noses in the air and then + struck up another chorus of growls <span class="pagenum">126</span><a + name="link126" id="link126"></a>interrupted with bites and tussles. Then + they appeared content and returned to their scientific investigations in + the heap of garbage, pawing, scratching, and turning it over industriously + for everything capable of mastication. To my mind a whole bundle of morals + was bound up in the incident, but I forbear to thrust them upon my + readers. + </p> + <p> + These dogs know and remember their friends as readily as do the members of + the canine race in other parts of the globe, and numberless are the + anecdotes of their sagacity related by old residents at Constantinople. A + stranger walking the Grand Rue de Pera will frequently be accompanied a + block or so by a stray dog who will wag his tail and look pleadingly in + the stranger’s face as if to say “Please give me something to + eat.” These demonstrations will be liveliest in the vicinity of an + open-front cook-shop, such as are so common throughout the “city of + dogs,” and if you stop and buy something for the poor brute he will + manifest his gratitude in the various doggish ways with which we are all + familiar. He will remember you and the next time you walk that street and + block, he will be on hand to welcome you. + </p> + <p> + One day a couple of dogs thus pleaded for me to stand treat and I obliged + them by stopping at a cook-shop and buying a few pennies worth of the + pancaky productions of which the lower class of Turks are so fond. That + evening I was calling on some friends at the Hotel de France and returned + rather late to my quarters in the Hotel de Byzance. Two or three hundred + yards from my destination two dogs came to my side and after a few + demonstrations of welcome traveled along with a dignified air and did not + leave me until I entered the doorway of the hotel. <span class="pagenum">127</span><a + name="link127" id="link127"></a>At that hour the cook-shops had long been + closed and the manner of the brutes did not indicate that they expected to + be paid for taking me home. Next day they met me again and were prompt to + recognize me, and I returned their recognition by again standing treat at + the cook shop. That night they were again on hand to escort me, and when a + third dog approached they drove him away. In the day time they were + suppliants but at night they were guardians, and I was told that if any + man had ventured to attack me there was little doubt that they would have + done good service with their teeth. + </p> + <p> + We kept up our acquaintance—the dogs and I—as long as I + remained in Constantinople. I have always entertained great respect for + the dog, and this experience increased rather than diminished it. + </p> + <p> + Have any of us ever lived, when we were boys, in a large city, and have we + ever been “licked” by the boys of a neighboring street for the + terrible crime of venturing out of our own territory? And furthermore have + we ever joined in “licking” some other boy who had the + audacity to venture from his street into ours. + </p> + <p> + Well, what boys do in American cities, the dogs do in Turkey. They divide + Constantinople into districts, and they know their own districts as well + as “the gal knew her dad.” Each group of dogs has its own + territory and they are also on good terms with each other. But let a cur + from the next dogship venture over the boundary he is in trouble at once. + The whole crowd, Tray, Blanche, and Sweetheart and all the other big and + little dogs go for him, and give it to him tooth and nail. He is rolled + over in the mud and bitten and bruised, and if he gets back to his own + ground with a whole skin he may thank his dog-stars. + </p> + <p> + I have frequently seen these discussions and observed how carefully the + boundary is defined, and how common cause is made against the intruder. He + is driven back to and over the frontier, and there the pursuit is supposed + to end. But if the pursuers in the excess of their zeal venture across the + line they are attacked by the combined forces of the district they have + invaded, and a grand battle is occasionally the result. The vigor with + which the dogs of the district assert their common rights, the patriotic + zeal of even the most insignificant and contemptible <span class="pagenum">128</span><a + name="link128" id="link128"></a>curs when called upon to defend the common + weal, and the aptitude which the dogs display for the discussion of + diplomatic niceties and fine distinctions, call for the respectful + consideration and study of the diplomats and scientists of the Western + world. + </p> + <p> + One day I was sitting with a friend in front of a <i>café</i> which was + situated on a street corner. The small street intersecting the larger one + happened to be the boundary of two of the dog principalities, and we + observed that the four-footed inhabitants of each realm frequently came + down to the street, but did not venture into it, as it was a sort of + neutral zone, which neither might occupy. + </p> + <p> + Let us call the principalities East and West for convenience in telling + what happened. + </p> + <p> + Both armies had been gathered at the boundary and separated only by the + narrow street. They snarled and growled and made <i>reconnaissances</i> in + force, but neither ventured across. + </p> + <p> + The army of the East was the more numerous and contained larger and more + healthy soldiers than that of the West; there was mischief in their eyes + and mud on their feet, and they felt that they could “chaw up” + the dogs of the West if they had a chance. + </p> + <p> + And how should they do it when it was contrary to their moral principles + to invade a country with which they were nominally at peace? + </p> + <p> + The army of the East retired from the frontier and disappeared round the + next corner where there was doubtless a camp of instruction—a sort + of Chalons-sur-Marne. The army of the West also retired and moved toward + its own interior; it stacked arms in the vicinity of a swill-box in front + of a restaurant, and waited for somebody to overturn the box, on which + their hopes and hunger were centered. Unconscious of danger, they did not + preserve good order, and nearly half their forces straggled away where a + baggy-breeched and dirty Turk had just deposited a basketful of kitchen + garbage. With tail in air, mouth wide open, and thoughts intent upon their + hurried banquet, for one fateful moment they lost sight of stratagems and + only dwelt on spoils. + </p> + <p> + This was the military situation at 3.15 p.m. About 3.18 p.m. a cavalry + regiment (one dog) debouched from the street leading <span class="pagenum">129</span><a + name="link129" id="link129"></a>to the fortified camp of the Army of the + East. + </p> + <p> + Halting a moment to observe the situation,—it had only one eye to + observe with—and its tail had been detailed to service elsewhere—it + gave the order to advance and—obeyed it. + </p> + <p> + With no shout of defiance, without champ of bit or clank of saber, but + “all in silence deep, unbroken,” it pressed forward at the <i>pas + de charge</i> and crossed the frontier. Leaping the Rubicon—a narrow + mud puddle—it was on the sacred soil of the West. + </p> + <p> + This gallant Light Brigade—noble six hundred ounces of dog-flesh—did + not slacken speed for an instant, but pushed onward with head and stump of + tail up, to within point blank range of the swill-box. It was not + perceived by the Army of the West until it was within a couple of yards of + the commissary depot; there a shot from a picket gave the alarm and the + Army of the West fell into line at once. + </p> + <p> + The swill-box division made a bayonet charge at the audacious invader, who + turned and with depending caudal stump legged it for his native land. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0048" id="linkimage-0048"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8139.jpg" alt="8139 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8139.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The reserve at the garbage heap advanced in double quick time and things + looked rather lively for the invader. + </p> + <p> + Swift was the flight and swift the pursuit. + </p> + <p> + The pursuers halted not at the frontier, but in the impetuosity of youth + and anger at the insolence of the enemy’s cavalry, they pushed + straight on after the flying foe. + </p> + <p> + The cavalry sounded its trumpet as it jumped the Rubicon, and just as it + reached the corner leading to the fortified camp, the whole army of the + East came to its support. Wasn’t the army of the West up a tree + about this time? <span class="pagenum">130</span><a name="link130" + id="link130"></a>The battle was short, sharp, and decisive. The army of + the West was “licked” out of its boots, and with shattered + battalions and wide gaps in its ranks it came limping and howling home, + leaving the ground covered with a <i>debris</i> of ears and tails. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0049" id="linkimage-0049"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0140.jpg" alt="0140 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0140.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + They made a brief halt at the frontier whither they were pursued, but only + stopped long enough to intimate that they would get even sometime. + </p> + <p> + Whether they have ever done so history does not record. The despatches + from our ambassador at the court of His Majesty, the Sultan, made no + mention of the matter, and a similar remissness has been observed in the + reports of Sir Henry Elliott to the British Government. + </p> + <p> + The dog in the Orient is considered an unclean and disreputable beast, and + one of the worst epithets applicable to living things is the term “dog.” + The Moslem was once accustomed to speak of “Christian dogs” + whenever he had occasion to allude to people of the Occident, just as the + Chinese are to this day in the habit of designating-them as “<i>fankwei</i>,” + “foreign devils.” Sometimes a delicate allusion is made to the + maternal descent from the canine race, where the speaker wishes to lay it + on fine, and if he wants to be especially choice and emphatic, he would + denounce an offending Occidental, as “Father of all dogs.” + </p> + <p> + Donkey drivers all through the Orient urge their beasts forward by + shouting, “<i>Empchy, ya kelb</i>,” (go on you dog,) but the + donkeys do not appear to mind it. I was repeatedly impressed with the + similarity of Arab and Russian drivers, as the epithet Kelb which the + former apply to their donkeys and camels, has exactly the meaning of + “<i>sabaka</i>” which the Russian yemshik yells out to his + horse. <span class="pagenum">131</span><a name="link131" id="link131"></a>The + dogs of Constantinople are so accustomed to the sight of people in + European dress, that they do not pretend to attack them, for the simple + reason that they would have a larger contract on hand than they could + conveniently fill. But the case is different in places less frequented by + foreigners. In Damascus, when our party made the tour of the walls, the + dogs annoyed us greatly by hanging around and keeping up a very loud and + angry barking. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0050" id="linkimage-0050"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8141.jpg" alt="8141 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8141.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + They did not bite anybody, though they came very near, and certainly + manifested a strong desire for dental practice. + </p> + <p> + They were knowing brutes, those Damascus dogs; one of our party afterward + called them Damas-cussed dogs; but we reproved him and threatened + expulsion if he ever did so again. The joke might have been allowed in Kit + Burns’ dog-pit, but was quite out of place in a respectable party + making the tour of the Holy Land. When they barked and howled around us, + we made threatening demonstrations with our canes and umbrellas, but the + animals didn’t scare worth a cent. They were particularly fascinated + with the “Doubter,” but they soon knew the range of his + umbrella, and how to keep out of its reach. + </p> + <p> + But when our guide picked up a stone and let it fly they fell back. + Whenever they came too near, a stone would send them back and a volley + would put their ranks in disorder. Even the motion to pick up a stone + would start them; the Arabs around Damascus can hurl these missiles with + great violence and are good shots, and the dogs know it. Several times our + guide made splendid shots, taking the dogs fairly in the sides with stones + the size of a respectable fist, or a more respectable piece of chalk, + <span class="pagenum">132</span><a name="link132" id="link132"></a>and + sending the offenders off with a chorus of yelps that were a warning to + their fellows. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0051" id="linkimage-0051"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9142.jpg" alt="9142 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9142.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + One morning when we were starting out for a long forenoon’s walk, in + Constantinople, the “Doubter” was sceptical about the + possibility of getting anything to eat on the way, and so took the + precaution to provide himself with a couple of ham sandwiches, which he + stowed away in the rear pocket of his coat, and thereby hangs a tale. + </p> + <p> + In one place we passed a group of dogs that looked up inquiringly, but + showed no fight or other ugliness. As we went by them the largest of the + pack, a lank beast about the size of a full grown donkey, sniffed the + morning air and the sandwiches in the “Doubter’s” + coat-tails. With hair bristling on his back, and with tail and ears erect + the Ponto of the Orient came up behind us, and I could see what he wanted. + As the “Doubter” spoke nothing but English, I passed the word + in French to the rest of the party to keep his attention fixed on + something, while I encouraged the dog. They dropped at once to the joke, + and became very busy in examining the dome of a mosque that loomed up + before them. + </p> + <p> + Ponto or Ishmael, or whatever his canine name was, came bravely and + hungrily forward. A ham sandwich was evidently a luxury the brute had not + enjoyed for many a day, and his appetite was now fairly aroused. I pointed + to the coat-tails where were enshrined the savory sandwiches, and + intimated by signs <span class="pagenum">133</span><a name="link133" + id="link133"></a>that it was all right, and the best dog might win. Ponto’s + nose came within two inches of the prize, and took a fresh and satisfying + sniff and then— + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0052" id="linkimage-0052"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8143.jpg" alt="8143 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8143.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + There was a ripping and tearing of broadcloth; the “Doubter” + fell backwards from the effect of the shock, and then—there was more + ripping. + </p> + <p> + Ponto was hungry and the Infidel Christian had brought him something to + eat. + </p> + <p> + A jump, a rip, a fall, an— + </p> + <p> + As the novelists say “all this passed quicker than I can write it.” + other rip, and all was over. + </p> + <p> + I was so dumb-struck with astonishment that I couldn’t interfere + till Ponto had detailed the “Doubter’s” coat. As he fled + I raised a shout and a terrible outcry that made him run all the faster. + Away he went like a pirate-ship in a fog, and in two minutes he was hull + down among the sand hills. + </p> + <p> + “Stop him! stop him!” yelled the “Doubter,” but + the brute couldn’t understand English, and evidently he was not a + stop-watch dog. + </p> + <p> + “There’s a coat ruined,” continued the “Doubter,” + </p> + <p> + “I’ve only had it four years, and gave twenty dollars for it. + What shall I do? what shall I do?” + </p> + <p> + “Cut off the other tail and make a jacket of it. Come to-morrow with + sandwiches in the other pocket and the dog will do it for you.” + </p> + <p> + “Hire an Arab to hunt up the tail.” + </p> + <p> + “Cut off the dog’s tail and sew it on instead, look any worse + than it did before.” <span class="pagenum">134</span><a + name="link134" id="link134"></a>"Tell the Consul about it, and have him + demand satisfaction of the government.” + </p> + <p> + These and other irreverent remarks were let off in the pauses of our + laughter, and I am bound to say that the “Doubter” didn’t + enjoy any part of the joke. He was unhappy all day, and more unhappy when + he visited next morning the clothing shop of an Israelite, in whom there + was guile enough to set up a whole Tammany Ring, and have ten per cent, to + spare. While he tried on a coat, and was dubious about the fit, the polite + Jew declared: “Ah, mein Gott, zat coat, he fit you like ze skin on a + dog; like, shoost like, ze skin on one big dog!” + </p> + <p> + And the “Doubter” again waxed wroth, and took in high dudgeon + this apparently personal indignity. + </p> + <p> + When he paid his bill at the hotel he was again angry, for among the items + was the following: + </p> + <p> + “Extra—two sandwiches, two francs.” + </p> + <p> + He vowed he would not pay, but we all insisted that the charge was just, + and he finally paid, and was cross for a week afterward. But he never + again took ham sandwiches for a lunch in Constantinople. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0053" id="linkimage-0053"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5144.jpg" alt="5144 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5144.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">135</span><a name="link135" id="link135"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0054" id="linkimage-0054"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0145.jpg" alt="0145 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0145.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII—TURKISH CURIOSITY SHOPS—SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE + BAZAARS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Locomotion in Constantinople—Horses, Donkeys, Shank’s Mare + and Sedan Chairs Turkish Street Cars—Women in Public—The + Veiled Queens of Seraglios—The Drugs of the Orient—Henna and + its Uses—Ottar of Roses, Musk and Bergamot—Shawls and Silks of + price—The Treasures of Ormus and of lad—The Workers in + Precious Metals—Vases of Gold and Platters of Silver—An + Aureole of Gems—Loot for Soldiers and Swag for Burglars—The + Weapons of Ancient Islam—Blades of Damascus and Swords of Mecca—A + Wonderful Collection—Old Clothes and New Truck—A Seedy Moslem + Swindler—An Exorbitant “Backsheesh”—What happened + to the Judge—A Dispenser of Justice in the Lockup.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">D</span>OUBTLESS one of + the most attractive features of Constantinople in the eyes of a stranger + is a visit to the bazaars. + </p> + <p> + To reach there from Pera, where all the hotels are situated, it is + necessary to descend the steep hill to Golata and cross the Golden Horn to + Stamboul. You can go on foot, on horseback, in a carriage, or in a sedan + chair; on foot is the least expensive and is the method employed by the + majority of visitors as it furnishes an opportunity for a leisurely survey + of the route which is always interesting, providing the rain is not + falling and the sun is not pouring down an intense heat. + </p> + <p> + Saddle horses are to be found all over the city, and you can hire them by + the day or hour or by the course from one place to another. A man + accompanies the horses, and no matter how fast you may ride, he will keep + close to the animal’s heels without apparent fatigue. + </p> + <p> + Carriages are a comparatively recent feature of Constantinople; they are + decidedly expensive, and as they jolt along over <span class="pagenum">136</span><a + name="link136" id="link136"></a>the rough pavements you are shaken up in a + way to make Dyspepsia turn pale in the face. + </p> + <p> + The sedan chair is borne by two men and is not an uncomfortable mode of + locomotion; all things considered it is the most agreeable if one does not + wish to go on foot, and has an aversion to a violent shaking up. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0055" id="linkimage-0055"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9146.jpg" alt="9146 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9146.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The sedan chair waiting at the door of the theatres near the conclusion of + the performance presents a curious spectacle, and reminds you of the + stories of London two hundred years ago when chairs and link boys were the + mode. + </p> + <p> + Omnibusses and street cars are in use. The latter are divided into three + compartments, first, second, and women’s. The first class has + leather cushions on the seat, and are generally dirty; the second class + has no cushions on the seats and are generally dirtier. In the women’s + compartment no man is allowed to enter; the women sit there in silence and + seclusion after the Turkish custom, and each wears the veil. + </p> + <p> + The veil of the Turkish women of fashion is of the thinnest gauze; it + allows the full outline of the features to be distinctly seen, and if the + wearer is pretty you are sure to know it. And between you and me many who + are not altogether pretty are made so by the veil which softens the hard + outlines and tempers any excess of color. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0056" id="linkimage-0056"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0147.jpg" alt="0147 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0147.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The street car dropped us at the point indicated by our guide, and we + entered the bazaar through a gateway possessing an architectural feature + worthy of notice. The first place we visited was <span class="pagenum">137</span><a + name="link137" id="link137"></a>the bazaar of drugs, and as we entered it + a thousand peculiar odors saluted our nostrils; some of them possessing + great pungency and power of penetration. For a minute or so the odor was + almost intoxicating; it was much like that which we experience in America + on entering a drug and perfumery establishment on a large scale. + </p> + <p> + The street or passage-way is quite narrow and on either side are small + shops with open fronts. The floor of the shop is about three feet above + the ground, and is so arranged that the merchant squatted within can use + the front part of the floor as a counter for the display of his wares. + </p> + <p> + For storage purposes there were shelves, and the merchant could reach + whatever was wanted without rising from his place. On the projecting + platform at either side of the shop, there were <span class="pagenum">138</span><a + name="link138" id="link138"></a>sacks of <i>henna</i>—used for + coloring a great many things, the eyebrows and finger-nails of women + included—and there were other sacks containing dates and various + kinds of nuts. Drugs of unknown names and quantities were exhibited, and + in many respects each shop appeared very much like its neighbor. + </p> + <p> + Immediately on entering we find ourselves in the place set apart for + perfumery, and if we wish to purchase ottar of rose, musk, essence of + bergamot, oil of sandal wood, or any of that kind of goods, now is our + chance. The merchants here seem to think that the chief end of foreign man + and especially woman is to buy ottar of rose, and you are offered the + article in all sorts of flasks and bottles They have a curious looking + bottle, shaped like one’s finger but longer in proportion to its + width, which holds only a few drops of the precious liquid. + </p> + <p> + Each man assures you that his is the only genuine article of the kind in + the city, and that you will be cheated if you go elsewhere. You are + allowed to smell of the merchandise, and by way of convincing you of the + genuineness of what they offer, they show you a small bottle of the + counterfeit with the assurance that they never sell it and only keep it to + show. + </p> + <p> + There is more humbug and nonsense in the purchase and sale of ottar of + rose than in anything else that is dealt in, in the Orient. Every guide + can take you to the only merchant in the city who sells the genuine + article, and no two guides take you to the same merchant. + </p> + <p> + You can buy the stuff anywhere from one to twenty dollars an ounce; the + price you pay is only limited by your willingness to pay it, and the + amount of money that your guide and the merchants (who are invariably + “in cahoots”) think they can squeeze out of you. You can just + as well buy for five dollars an ounce as for twenty; the genuine article, + unadulterated in any way, is worth fifty dollars an ounce at the place of + manufacture, and as the Orient demands large profits, you should expect to + pay a hundred dollars for it in Constantinople. + </p> + <p> + You can set it down as a certainty that no stranger can possibly buy the + genuine ottar of rose in the bazaars of Constantinople or Cairo. + </p> + <p> + Near these perfume bazaars are the shops where you can buy-all sorts of + Oriental luxuries in the shape of shawls and silks, <span class="pagenum">139</span><a + name="link139" id="link139"></a>sandal and rosewood, Persian mirrors + framed in fine paintings, articles of ivory, or ebony, or pearl, little + odds and ends of filagree work; in fact, an endless variety of things of + more or less value. + </p> + <p> + The merchants are not so ready to show their goods as those we have just + passed, for the reason that the articles may be damaged by much handling, + and customers are not very easy to obtain. If you show a disposition to + trade, they will accommodate you; but they do not rush to strip their + shelves at your approach. + </p> + <p> + We did not want to buy drugs, and so we went rather hastily through this + bazaar to visit the “Grand Bazaar,” as it is generally known + among foreigners as well as natives. Do not imagine that it is a single + house; it is so in one sense, and in another is far from it. It is a sort + of city within a city; it has streets, lanes, alleys, and squares, which + are all roofed over, so that you might walk upon the housetops from one + side of the bazaar to the other. Light is admitted through holes in the + street roofs, some of them open and others covered with glass. + </p> + <p> + There is not light enough to go around and give a good supply to + everybody, and sometimes you have to strain your eyes to see distinctly, + and then you don’t. A good many of the shop-keepers in America are + up to the same dodge; if you don’t believe it, just enter a + ready-made clothing store in New York or Boston, and observe in what part + of the establishment they endeavor to fit you. + </p> + <p> + Further on you find the shops where the silks of Broussa are sold, an + article for which Constantinople has long been famous. + </p> + <p> + There are two kinds of Broussa goods, one entirely of silk and the other + half silk and half linen; the latter is much the cheaper of the two, and + greatly in demand for dresses after the European model. The merchants + endeavor to tempt the masculine visitor with dressing-gown and wrappers of + Broussa silks, and then with slippers and other articles which would make + a sensation at home. There is a great supply of ready-made clothing of the + Turkish pattern, especially for children; and you could rig out a small + boy there in a very short time with garments that fit him exactly, from + slippers up to head dress. + </p> + <p> + And so you go on. You can wander for hours in the bazaars, days will not + exhaust their treasures, and I think I should be <span class="pagenum">140</span><a + name="link140" id="link140"></a>content to spend my odd moments there for + at least half a year. The whole wealth of Ormus and of Ind seems to be + stored there; and the eyes are frequently dazzled by some object of great + value, whose existence is almost an enigma, and its uses still more so. + You pass from the centre of one trade to that of another; now you are + among the rows of shops where are sold the curiously-shaped shoes of the + Orient. Thousands and thousands of shoes are exposed there, and you think + if all Turkey should become by some miracle barefoot to-morrow morning, it + could be newly shod before nightfall from this bazaar alone. + </p> + <p> + You enter the bazaar of the workers in gold and silver, and there you see + enough of the precious metal to pay the national debt of any reasonably + economical country, or at all events, to go far in that direction. You + enter the bazaar of precious stones and see the light flashing and + sparkling from thousands of diamonds of “purest ray serene,” + and should you show a desire to purchase, they will bring forth from dusty + and iron-bound coffers tens and hundreds of thousands of other diamonds, + larger and more brilliant than those which hang or lie in the showcases. + Collars, ear-drops, rings, and pins of diamonds and other precious stones + are on exhibition, and many of them, in spite of their oriental mounting + in semi-barbaric taste, are of great beauty. + </p> + <p> + The wealth stored here is something incredible. The loot of the place + would make many and many a fortune, and enable the robbers to live + comfortably and honestly for the rest of their days. + </p> + <p> + One of the most interesting places is the Arms Bazaar. It is not exactly + what its name indicates, as it contains a great many things besides + weapons of war or the chase. In the other bazaars you find an attempt now + and then to conform to Occidental taste, but here everything is Oriental. + You can find here every sort of weapon which the Orient has known in the + past ten or twenty centuries. There are swords of Damascus, of a fineness + unknown to the best steel of the present day, and which may have flashed + in the hands of Saladin or Haroun-al-Raschid. There are knives and lances + that are said to have pierced through coats of mail, and whose handles are + crusted and covered with <span class="pagenum">141</span><a name="link141" + id="link141"></a>pearls and precious stones. There are spears, hatchets, + lances, sabres, curious old match-locks, with barrels of immense length—all + the weapons of the Islam of the past and going back to the time when + Mohammed, at Mecca, believed himself commissioned from heaven to reform + the world. + </p> + <p> + Saddles and housings, sparkling with precious stones, are placed where the + light falling from the vaulted roof will show them to the best advantage; + and as you look around you see thousands of objects covered with jewels + and with barbaric pearl and gold. There are garments lined with costly + furs, or embroidered in the most elaborate manner, and there are articles + of furniture of fabulous value. + </p> + <p> + So great is the wealth contained in the Arms Bazaar that no fire is + allowed there under any circumstances. Smoking is prohibited; the place + where a Turk forbids himself to smoke must be sacred in the highest + degree. + </p> + <p> + There are bazaars where they sell pipes of all kinds, and where you buy + all kinds of tin-ware. There are book bazaars, seed bazaars, glass + bazaars, and so on through a long list. And there is a second-hand bazaar, + where you can buy anything from a set of false teeth to a suit of clothes. + It is a wonderful mass of stuff, not altogether inviting; as you walk + around, you have suspicions of plague, cholera, and other diseases of the + Orient, and are not altogether sorry to get away. To most visitors to this + place, the request “please not handle” would be quite + superfluous, as they have no wish to form a very intimate acquaintance + with the articles exposed for sale. But the Turk never puts up a notice of + this sort, and seems quite indifferent on the subject. + </p> + <p> + We inquired for the slave bazaar, and were told it no longer existed. + </p> + <p> + A few years ago there was such a bazaar near the mosque of Mohammed II, + where negro children were sold, and occasionally one could find an adult, + man or woman, to be disposed of. The bazaar for white slaves is also gone, + but the commerce is still carried on clandestinely. The business is + conducted by Circassians established in the Pera quarter; they claim that + the girls sold by them, come voluntarily to Constantinople, and the prices + they demand is simply to cover the expense of importation. <span + class="pagenum">142</span><a name="link142" id="link142"></a>It was the + month of Ramadan, or Ramazan, when I arrived at Constantinople. There may + be some ignorant wretch who doesn’t know what Ramadan is. + </p> + <p> + Well, the Mohammedan year is divided into twelve months, composed + alternately of twenty-nine and thirty days, or three hundred and + fifty-four days in all. Consequently the year begins sometimes in the + spring, sometimes in the summer, and so on, with a constant variation. + This may seem absurd to our notions, but on second thought we see that it + gives every month a fair show, and is really a very just system. + </p> + <p> + Suppose we had the same kind of year, we could have January begin, once in + a while, in August, and March could have a chance to set up for September. + May could not put on airs over November, because they would change places + from time to time, and December could be in haying time, just as often as + it is the period for skating. Think of planting potatoes in November and + cutting ice in August, of eating your Christmas dinner and going a Maying + in October! Mohammed had a level head after all. + </p> + <p> + Ramadan is the most sacred month in the year, and every Moslem is directed + to fast every day during that month. From sunrise to sunset he must + abstain from eating, drinking, smoking, and smelling perfumes, and from + all indulgence of a worldly character. + </p> + <p> + The Prophet neglected to prohibit his followers from taking presents or + swindling their customers during this month; at all events, I found them + entertaining the most extraordinary notions of the value of their + services, and asking about four times the real worth of what they had to + sell and what I wanted to buy. + </p> + <p> + The first afternoon we were in Constantinople we went to the Tower of + Golata, which overlooks the city; there were six of us, and we went + without a guide. We climbed the steps until we reached the platform, where + the police authorities keep a detachment constantly on the lookout for + fires, and I may here remark, by the way, that their vigilance is well + rewarded, as they have more fires, and very destructive ones they are, in + Constantinople than in any other city of its size on the face of the + globe. + </p> + <p> + When we reached this platform a seedy Turk approached us and asked what we + wanted. <span class="pagenum">143</span><a name="link143" id="link143"></a>"Can + we go to the top?” I asked in French, as he was more likely to + understand that language than any other with which I was familiar. + </p> + <p> + The seedy Moslem extended his hand and uttered, “<i>backsheesh!</i>” + in a very imperative tone. + </p> + <p> + I gave him a franc, and he then counted six on his fingers, and intimated + that he wanted six francs for the party. I paid no more attention to him, + and continued up the stairs to the top, calling on the rest to follow. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0057" id="linkimage-0057"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8153.jpg" alt="8153 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8153.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We remained there an hour or more studying the beautiful, or as the French + would say, <i>bizarre</i> picture which included the whole of + Constantinople, the Golden Horn, Scutari, with much of the Asiatic side + and portions of the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmora. We watched the sun go + down, and when his rays had ceased to gild the domes and minarets of + Stamboul we were ready to descend. + </p> + <p> + The Judge had gone down before the sun, as he was not much on + sight-seeing, and had spied a Greek beer-shop near the foot of the tower, + and intimated that he would sit down in front of it and wait for us. When + the rest of us went down our seedy Turk was on the lookout, and demanded + more francs; he wanted five and I gave him one, and intimated that I would + break his Osmanli skull if he didn’t shut up. We were more numerous + than he, and he didn’t trouble us farther, except by howling “backsheesh” + as long as we were within hearing. + </p> + <p> + And what do you suppose the Judge told us when we joined him? + </p> + <p> + That scoundrelly Oriental had locked the door on the Judge and refused to + let him descend until he paid the five francs, which <span class="pagenum">144</span><a + name="link144" id="link144"></a>he afterward demanded of us, and the + good-natured ex-dispenser of justice actually paid the fellow three + francs, and then grew wrathy and threatened to break the door if it was + not opened. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0058" id="linkimage-0058"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9154.jpg" alt="9154 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9154.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The Turk saw he meant business, and then unlocked the door, not without a + final demand, which he repeated while our friend descended. + </p> + <p> + We learned at the hotel that half a franc would have been a sufficient + “back sheesh” for the whole party. Had we paid that and no + more when we entered, the fellow would have seen that we knew the price, + and would have made no further demand. But my gift of a franc—double + the proper fee—coupled with my question showed him that we were a + lot of modest idiots who might be swindled. It was our first experience + with the Moslem, and you can wager that we learned a good lesson from it. + </p> + <p> + Now, this happened in the month of Ramadan, and that Turk was keeping the + fast with religious exactness. Yet we shouldn’t have been swindled + any more by a Christian hackman in New York or Chicago, unless we had + given the hackman an equal chance. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">145</span><a name="link145" id="link145"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0059" id="linkimage-0059"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0155.jpg" alt="0155 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0155.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX—FASTING AND FEASTING—THE SULTAN AND HIS COURT. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Great Moslem Fast—Nights of Feasting and Days of Fasting—The + Injunction of Mahomet—The Ravenous Mussulman—An Hotel Swindle—A + Stranger and They Took Him In—“Too Thin, too Thin”—Greek + Wine—Going Out in a Blaze of Glory—Thunder, Smoke, and Flame—The + Approach of the Sultan—How He Looked—A Peep at the Ladies of + the Harem—The Veiled Queens—The Sultan’s Mother—The + Empress Eugenie at the Seraglio—Insult Offered to Eugenie—A + Queen in Tears—A Question of Court Etiquette—Murdering + Christians.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>HEN the month of + Ramadan falls in winter, and the days are short and cool, the fast is not + very severe, especially for the wealthier class who are not obliged to + work. + </p> + <p> + But in summer, with heat and long days, the fast becomes a serious matter + for all parties, especially for the poorer class who must attend to their + daily avocations. The rich Moslems lie around their houses in a + semi-comatose condition; some of them sit up all night eating, drinking, + and smoking, and devote the day to digestion and sleep; thus they rob the + fast of its terrors, and I am told that many of them do not hesitate to + take an occasional bite during the day, but they take it very privately + and in the strictest confidence. + </p> + <p> + The fast comes heaviest on the poorer classes, and especially the + abstinence from drinking. Think of being at work out of doors in a July + day fourteen hours or so, and not a drop of water or any other liquid + passing your lips! Men frequently faint under such circumstances, and + sometimes their health is seriously impaired. <span class="pagenum">146</span><a + name="link146" id="link146"></a>Should a Turk faint from fasting and you + endeavored to revive him by pouring coffee or water down his throat, it is + an even chance that he would berate you soundly when he came to himself, + for attempting to make him abandon the faith of his childhood, and embrace + that of the Christian dog. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0060" id="linkimage-0060"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0156.jpg" alt="0156 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0156.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The Prophet enjoined his followers not to crowd this fasting business too + much; soldiers in time of war are not required to keep the fast, nor + persons who are sick or on a journey. It is even stated in the Koran that + nobody should keep the fast unless perfectly healthy and able to do so, + and that he should not neglect necessary labor to keep it. But if he does + not fast during Ramadan, he must do so an equal number of days in the rest + of the year. + </p> + <p> + In Constantinople a gun is fired at sunrise and another at sunset, and + between these gun-fires the fast is in full force. As evening approaches + every body gets ready for business, and is determined that no time shall + be lost. Fires are lighted, food is cooked and placed on the table, and + coffee is poured out. As the sun touches the horizon the dinner party sits + (or squats) at the table, and when the gun booms out there is from one + side of the Ottoman capital to the other a simultaneous extension of; + right hands to clutch something edible, and convey it to the <span + class="pagenum">147</span><a name="link147" id="link147"></a>gaping Moslem + mouths. You can almost hear the rush of wind caused by that synchronous + movement, and if the force employed could be utilized by wheels and belts, + it would be found sufficient for the propulsion of a cotton factory of the + largest calibre. + </p> + <p> + Things went on this way day after day during Ramadan, and wherever we went + among the Turks, near the sunset hour, we witnessed the same scenes. + </p> + <p> + The mosques were brilliantly illuminated both externally and internally; + the rows of lamps hung round the upper galleries of the minarets presented + a curious appearance, as the minaret would generally be quite invisible in + the darkness, so that the rows of light would appear to be suspended high + up in the air. The people assembled for daily prayers, instead of weekly + ones, and there was a general appearance of piety all around, coupled with + an intense desire to make the most out of the “stranger within the + gates”. + </p> + <p> + Even the Christian residents seemed to have caught the infection—the + proprietor of the Hotel d’Angleterre “raised” on us + about four hours after we had settled into our quarters, and we had a row + by way of diversion. + </p> + <p> + When we went there from the steamer we arranged to have everything, rooms, + attendance, lights, and wine at dinner, for twenty francs per diem; when + we were gathered at the table we were told that wine would be extra—the + manager was sorry, but they had made a mistake in telling us wine was + included. He would not yield, and next morning we packed our baggage and + went to the rival house. + </p> + <p> + When he found that we were leaving, he came down. We might have wine free, + he would give us the best rooms in the house, he would eat dirt, any dirt + we might select, and in any quantity, if we would only stay. + </p> + <p> + But “it was no go,” or rather it <i>was</i> a go on our part, + and we patronized the Hotel de Byzance, where, for sixteen francs, we had + everything as good as at the other house, and wine included. The wine + proved to be ornamental rather than useful; it was a Greek article, with + the <i>goût</i> of nitric acid and oak bark, and brave must be the man who + would drink it. + </p> + <p> + Should I visit that hotel a decade hence, I expect to find the same + decanter of wine, that stood by my plate during my stay. <span + class="pagenum">148</span><a name="link148" id="link148"></a>The day I + left I grasped the decanter affectionately and gave it a farewell kiss. + </p> + <p> + “Good bye, my friend, good bye,” I gently murmured, “we + shall meet again some time, let us fervently hope. I am a frail mortal and + may not last many years, but you have enduring qualities that should + preserve you a century or two Don’t ‘sour on me’ when I + am far away; if anything, you are too sour already.” + </p> + <p> + The decanter was too full for utterance. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0061" id="linkimage-0061"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9158.jpg" alt="9158 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9158.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + A tear stood in its eye, though it may have been a drop remaining from the + effort of the waiter to tone the wine down with water, so that the stuff + would be drinkable. + </p> + <p> + Ramadan closed in a blaze of glory. The ships of the Turkish squadron were + gorgeously dressed in flags, and many English and French residents hung + out their national standards. + </p> + <p> + From the ships and the forts all round came the booming of artillery—not + in occasional spattering shots, but in a salvo that seemed to shake the + city, and check the flow of the waters through the Bosphorus. + </p> + <p> + The fast was over and the Moslem was happy. Next day was the feast of + Bairam, and the Sultan was to pray in the mosque of Saint Sophia. Of + course we went to see him arrive at the mosque, and we had to rise + disagreeably early in order to be promptly on the ground. + </p> + <p> + From the Stamboul end of the bridge over the Golden Horn, there was a + double hedge of infantry and cavalry all the way to the mosque. We took + positions near the entrance to the Seraglio Park, where we could have a + front view of the carriages as they <span class="pagenum">149</span><a + name="link149" id="link149"></a>approached, and then a side view as they + turned to enter the gate. The aphorism that great minds think alike was + well verified on that occasion, as we found some two or three thousand + people holding similar views to ours, and a front place seemed hopeless. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0062" id="linkimage-0062"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0159.jpg" alt="0159 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0159.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The police were very civil, and the “cavass,” or police + officer on duty in front of our party, kept the population from crowding + us in conveniently close. The “cavass” was arrayed in gorgeous + style, and a franc slipped into his hand proved a good investment; where + he had before used words he now used a stick, and soon <span + class="pagenum">150</span><a name="link150" id="link150"></a>convinced the + multitude that it had no rights which he or we were bound to respect. We + had front places, and the fellow even brought a couple of bricks on which + the lady of our party could stand and thus preserve her feet from the + dampness of the earth. + </p> + <p> + We were close to the gate and had a good position. On the opposite side of + the gate there was a crowd of women, principally Turkish; we intimated + that we would like to stand there, but the force of politeness and “backsheesh” + could no farther go. Our lady might join the feminine group, but as for + the rest of us it was out of the question. No man was allowed to intrude + there; to Christian and Moslem, Jew and Pagan, the place was forbidden, + and two policemen were there to enforce obedience. + </p> + <p> + By and by there was a commotion, and a squadron of cavalry came trotting + up the street and into the gate. Close behind them came carriages + containing officers of the Sultan’s cabinet, and, behind them in the + most gorgeous carriage of all, was the Sultan Abdul-Aziz, the head of the + Ottoman Empire. + </p> + <p> + He rode alone, etiquette forbidding that he should be accompanied by any + one, even by a minister of State. He is a stout, in fact more than stout, + individual, with a heavy face, rather devoid of expression. I saw him + seven years before in Paris; then his cropped and full beard was black; + but as I looked at it, on that morning of Bairam I found that it was well + sprinkled with grey. Unless the Sultan renews his youth at some Ponce de + Leon fount of hair dye he will be a respectable old grey-beard before many + years, provided he is not gathered too soon to his Osmanli Fathers. He was + born on the 9th of February, 1830, and so you can easily calculate his age—just + as easily as he can do it. + </p> + <p> + He sits erect and with an air of dignity; evidently he knows that people + are looking at him, and he ought to be on his good behavior. He is in a + gaudy uniform, which my hasty glance does not allow me to include in + detail, and his fez is bright, and has evidently been sent out that + morning and freshly ironed. + </p> + <p> + He is evidently proud of his fez and gives his whole mind to it. + </p> + <p> + The Sultan is a devout Moslem, and goes to church, or mosque, with + exemplary regularity. Every Friday he leaves his palace about eleven o’clock + and goes to one of the mosques, never to <span class="pagenum">151</span><a + name="link151" id="link151"></a>the same one twice his mind an hour or so + before he sets out. He generally goes ===on horseback, and sometimes in a + caique, and rarely in a carriage. He never goes back by the way he came, + and he never returns on the horse that brought him, a second horse being + sent, for his homeward ride. + </p> + <p> + The same plan is followed when he goes in caique or carriage, a second + being taken for his return journey. I asked the reason of this, and was + told that it was the custom, and that the Sultan had certain superstitions + which those around him found it well to humor. + </p> + <p> + Before the Sultan’s cortege came in sight several carriages + containing women were driven rapidly through the gate, and others came + after His Majesty had entered. These were the ladies of the Imperial + Harem, all dressed in their best clothes, and all wearing the <i>yashmak</i>, + or veil. They were all pretty, or, at any rate, their veils made them + appear so, if they were not. + </p> + <p> + The Turkish veil is very thin,—so much so that it distinctly reveals + the outline of the face and softens any tendency to harshness. It appears + more like a slice cut from a cumulus cloud than like a real tangible + substance that costs money. + </p> + <p> + The Sultan’s mother was in one of the carriages; a dignified old + lady, whose beauty has evidently gone back on her, as she wears a veil + thicker than those of the Sultan’s wives, either full rank or + brevet. She is a true believer of the old school; she believes most + emphatically in the impurity of the Christian dogs, though she is open to + reason sometimes when her son takes her in hand. + </p> + <p> + When Eugenie, Empress of the French, visited Constantinople, she was + received by the Sultan with high honor as the representative of His (then) + Majesty, Louis Napoleon. She was presented to the Sultan’s mother, + and when the introduction was pronounced Eugenie stepped gracefully + forward and kissed the old lady. + </p> + <p> + The O. L. was taken by surprise, and did not know what was coming till the + smack of affection had touched her forehead, She was on her ear instantly, + and with a howl of anger and contempt pushed Eugenie from her, and then + turned on her heel and stalked out of the room. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">152</span><a name="link152" id="link152"></a>The + situation was an awful one. Eugenie’s Spanish blood rose to about + 211° Fahrenheit, and it was a struggle for her to keep it from passing the + boiling point. But as Empress of the French, she had a position to sustain + and she managed to keep her temper till she reached her apartments in the + palace assigned to her. It is said that she had a good cry when she got + there, and, moreover made it lively for her attendants. + </p> + <p> + Next day there was an attempt to patch up the row; Eugenie was informed of + the cause of the strange conduct of the Sultan’s mother, and assured + that it was not at all personal, but a matter of religion. They wanted her + to be introduced again, and it was stipulated that the Turkish lady should + kiss the French one, and try in a general way to make herself agreeable. + But Eugenie had had enough and declined another interview. + </p> + <p> + The fanaticism of the Moslems concerning the touch or presence of the + infidel has largely disappeared in Constantinople. Down to the Crimean war + there was much of it, and many places were forbidden to the Occidental. + But the British and French soldiers went where they pleased, and when the + barriers were thus broken they were not likely to be restored. The + Janizaries used to consider it rather meritorious than otherwise to stab + Christians, while peaceably walking the streets, and other Moslems + followed their example. But that is a thing of the past, as the Sultan + Mahmoud, in the interest of civilization and humanity, butchered the + Janizaries and thus opened the way to progress and reform. There are still + some parts of Islam, where the life of an infidel would not be safe, but + their limits are narrowing every year. + </p> + <p> + The Bairam festival after Ramadan lasts three days, and is not unlike our + Christmas. The master of a house gives each servant a suit of clothes or + some other presents, and the working people generally go round to call on + those from whom they may hope to extract gifts. Everybody goes to the + mosque to say his prayers, and friends who meet there indulge in a good + deal of embracing and kissing. They visit each others’ houses and + have a good time generally, and altogether the festival of Bairam puts the + city in a very picturesque condition. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">153</span><a name="link153" id="link153"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0063" id="linkimage-0063"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0163.jpg" alt="0163 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0163.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X—THE MOSQUES—FAITH AND SUPERSTITIONS OF THE + MUSSULMANS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Among the Mosques—Their Special Uses—Greek Burglars, their + Capture and Execution—A “Firman,” What is it—A + Turkish Dragoman—A Relic of Ancient Byzantium—Its Name and + Origin—Taking a Portrait—Turkish Superstitions—Worshipping + in St. Sophia—Moslem Fanatics—Counting the Minarets—What + came of a Wet Pair of Boots—The Judge in a Tight Place—The + “Doubter” commits Sacrilege—Uncovering a Sarcophagus—Attacked + by the Priests—Barefooted Worshippers—Teachings of the Koran—Cleanliness + and Temperance—Why Turkish Women do not go to the Mosques—Why + good Mussulmans never get Drunk.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>IGHT-SEEING in the + capital of Turkey would be incomplete if it did not include the mosques. + Mosques are to the Orient what churches are to the Occident, and are used + for the same purpose—the assemblage of the faithful for religious + worship. The Moslem goes to the mosque to say his prayers, when he can do + so conveniently, especially on Friday, which holds the same place in + Mohammedan countries that Sunday does in ours. But the purpose of the + mosque goes somewhat beyond that of the church in Christian lands, and in + some respects sets an example worthy of our attention. + </p> + <p> + The church in our country is for worship only, and when not used for + devotional purposes, its doors are closed or only opened for the visits of + the curious. In the Orient the mosque affords a refuge to the houseless + poor, and this is particularly the case in Damascus and Cairo, where the + Moslem faith has been longer at home than in Constantinople. + </p> + <p> + Most of the mosques have large court yards attached, and a <span + class="pagenum">154</span><a name="link154" id="link154"></a>portion of + these yards is roofed over to afford protection against the sun and rain. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0064" id="linkimage-0064"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0164.jpg" alt="0164 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0164.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + A visitor nearly always finds groups of people sitting there, many of them + at work, with as much ease and comfort as though in their own homes + Tradesmen who have no shops of their own frequently bring their work to + the mosque, so that you nearly always find numbers of them engaged in + sewing, spinning, or other light occupations. This is particularly the + case in the afternoon; and not unfrequently the mosque, at such times, or + rather the court yard of it, presents a very lively appearance. <span + class="pagenum">155</span><a name="link155" id="link155"></a>Groups of + children may be seen playing in the court yard, but they do not play as + noisily as do most of the Occidental juveniles, and consequently their + sports are not so annoying as one might be led to expect. In the mosque + itself you frequently see bales and boxes piled up as in a warehouse; + these are the property of persons who have gone on a journey—particularly + oh a pilgrimage to Mecca—and have sent their valuables to the safest + place they know. Articles sometimes lie there for years, and the owners + feel entirely assured against loss. A Moslem would never steal from a holy + edifice, and an infidel thief would run a great risk if he attempted it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0065" id="linkimage-0065"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0165.jpg" alt="0165 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0165.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + A few years ago some Greek and Italian scoundrels “put up a job” + to plunder one of the mosques at Constantinople. They were weeks at work, + perfecting their plans, and managed to get their plunder safe on board a + schooner which was waiting in the sea of Marmora, a mile or two from + shore. They sailed away in triumph, but the electric telegraph, which has + brought so many scoundrels to justice, caused them to be overhauled at the + Dardanelles. + </p> + <p> + The schooner was captured and brought back to Constantinople; the property + was returned to the mosque, and the enterpris<span class="pagenum">156</span><a + name="link156" id="link156"></a>ing gentlemen who removed it without + authority received the polite attentions of a Turkish headsman. Not only + they, but the entire crew of the schooner down to the cook and cabin boy—also + a cat and two kittens—were decapitated, without fear or favor. + </p> + <p> + “Bismillah!” (in the name of God) shouted the executioner each + time he swung his sword. “Inshallah!” (God is willing) + responded the attendant, as he gathered up the heads one by one and stowed + them away in a sack. + </p> + <p> + The mosques of Constantinople are the finest in all Islam; they crown the + summits of the hills of Stamboul, and are the most prominent objects in + the picture, as one regards the city from the Bosphorus. To visit them, + one must be provided with a “firman” or passport, and to + obtain this document the article of “backsheesh” is required. + </p> + <p> + A request must come from the embassy or consulate of the visitor’s + nation, and with this request and the payment of a sum equal to two + dollars for each person of the party, there is no further trouble. Our + polite Consul-general, Mr. Goodenow, greatly facilitated our efforts by + sending his dragoman with ours to obtain the “firman;” the + consular dragoman is a personage of great importance, all through the + East, and often advances the transaction of business with the government + bureaux. The passport thus obtained is good, not for one alone, but for + all the principal mosques. + </p> + <p> + The most interesting and best known of the mosques is that of Saint + Sophia, as it is erroneously called. It was not called so after any + canonized woman named Sophia, but in honor of divine wisdom, <i>Aya Sofia</i>. + It was thus consecrated by its founder, Constantine, in the early part of + the fourth century, and when the Turks captured it a thousand years later, + they retained the title, and call it <i>Aya Sofia</i> at the present day. + </p> + <p> + The Turks have endeavored to remove the evidences of its former Christian + character, but have not altogether succeeded. In many places one can see + the cross and other emblems of the western religion, and in some instances + the faces of men and angels have not been entirely obliterated. + Mohammedanism forbids the making of any graven or pictorial image, and for + this <span class="pagenum">157</span><a name="link157" id="link157"></a>reason, + it is very difficult to induce an orthodox believer, uncorrupted by + occidental heresies, to sit for his portrait. + </p> + <p> + The belief is that the person who makes a representation of any living + thing, will be confronted with it at the day of judgment, and ordered to + endow it with life. Failing to do this, he will be condemned to a locality + I need not mention. + </p> + <p> + I once endeavored to induce an Arab to stand in a certain position while I + made a sketch of him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0066" id="linkimage-0066"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8167.jpg" alt="8167 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8167.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He declined, and explained through an interpreter, that a duplicate of + himself would make things rather inconvenient at the day of judgment, as + there might be a difficulty in proving which was which. I tried to + convince him that it would be all right, as my lack of artistic ability + would be sure to save him. + </p> + <p> + After looking through my sketch-book h e gained confidence, and was + willing to take the risk for two francs. We compromised on one franc, and + when I finished the picture he surveyed it and delicately hinted, that he + was entirely safe from harm on the score of <i>that</i> duplicate. + </p> + <p> + Most of the Moslem residents of the cities visited by Europeans, have got + over any qualms of conscience about pictorial representations, but they + still decorate their mosques after the traditional manner. There are no + representations of living things on the walls; nothing but texts from the + Koran and attempts at architectural elegance about the arches and pillars. + </p> + <p> + We left our hotel after an early breakfast, as it was necessary to pay our + visit before the noon prayers, and we had several mosques to go through. + To describe them all would be tedious; <span class="pagenum">158</span><a + name="link158" id="link158"></a>it was a trifle so to go through them, and + therefore I will let down gently. We had a long walk and were elbowed by a + great many Turks, especially while crossing the bridge between Pera and + Stamboul, and followed by a goodly number of beggars. + </p> + <p> + The Turkish beggar is generally a fanatical Moslem who would not pollute + himself by contact with the infidel; he would starve rather than cat a + dinner with a Christian, and as to taking a drink with him, it would be + quite out of the question. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0067" id="linkimage-0067"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9168.jpg" alt="9168 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9168.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + But when it comes to money he makes no distinction, and will receive a + Frank franc as readily as a Turkish one. + </p> + <p> + The mosques of Suleiman II., Ahmed I. and Mohammed the Conqueror, (by whom + Constantinople was captured; in 1453,) are magnificent edifices, each; + with a grand dome in the centre, and a smaller dome at each corner. The + arrowy minarets rise around each mosque and add to the picturesque effect; + their practical use is like that of a bell tower, as from the gallery near + the summit the Muezzin chants the call for the people to come to prayer. + No bells are allowed in the minarets, nor in fact in all Constantinople, + as their sound is offensive to Moslem ears. + </p> + <p> + The mosque of Ahmed has six minarets; up to the time of its construction + the mosque of the Kaaba at Mecca was the only <span class="pagenum">159</span><a + name="link159" id="link159"></a>one with six minarets, and as it was the + holiest of all places in Islam, it was considered rather “off color” + for Ahmed to put an equal number on his own edifice. He compromised the + matter by ordering another minaret for the Kaaba, and paying the bills for + its construction, and thus it happens that this mosque has seven instead + of six minarets. + </p> + <p> + This same mosque, the Ahmediah, is in the middle of a large yard planted + with trees, and affording a very pleasant shade from the heat of the day. + The interior of the mosque is simple, but magnificent; the vast central + dome is upheld by four immense pillars, each more than thirty feet in + diameter, and cut on the outside so as to resemble a bundle of columns. + There are half domes opening into the central one, and there are numerous + pillars of marble and granite, sustaining arches at the sides and ends of + the building. The absence of any decorations, save the texts from the + Koran and the names of God, give an aspect of severity to the interior, + especially when one has become familiar with the profuse adornments of + Italian churches. + </p> + <p> + The founders of mosques generally, but not always, intend them for their + own burial places. What is left of Ahmed I., and I fancy there isn’t + much left now, is laid away, not in the mosque itself, but in a tomb close + at hand, and forming a sort of adjunct to the grand building. + </p> + <p> + We had to take off our shoes on entering it, just as we did on entering + the mosque, and all the other mosques; we brought along our slippers to + wear in these excursions, and our guide walking ahead with six pairs under + his arm, might have been easily taken for a second-hand dealer in foot + gear. The Judge, the heavy man of the party, had wet his feet a little, + and as his boots were very tight, he had hard work to doff and don them at + each halting place. + </p> + <p> + He sat on the pavement in front of a mosque, while the guide undertook to + remove the refractory boots. They stuck faster at each change, and toward + the last it became necessary to hold him, or have him sit astride a post + during the operation. Otherwise the guide pulled him all around the yard + as a country doctor does a patient when extracting an obstinate tooth. + </p> + <p> + We feared it would be necessary for all of us to sit on him, or <span + class="pagenum">160</span><a name="link160" id="link160"></a>pile stones + on him while the guide pulled, but happily this did not become necessary. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0068" id="linkimage-0068"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9170.jpg" alt="9170 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9170.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The oft-repeated dragging around on the rough ground was detrimental to + the trowsers of the Judge, and he was obliged to have them half-soled + before he again wore them. + </p> + <p> + When we were at the tomb of Ahmed, which contained a sarcophagus, covered + with magnificent and costly shawls, and was surmounted with the turban of + the defunct Sultan, our sceptical comrade, the “Doubter,” + expressed a suspicion that the ruins of Ahmed were not in the box. + </p> + <p> + “These people are all liars,” said he, “and I don’t + believe there ever was such a man.” + </p> + <p> + We tried to convince him that it was all right, and as he had paid for + entering, he was at liberty to believe what he pleased. + </p> + <p> + “Tell the man to open the place up,” said the “Doubter” + to our guide, “and let us see what there is inside.” + </p> + <p> + The guide tried to inform him, that such a proceeding would be contrary to + custom, but the “Doubter” was obstinate and determined to have + things his own way. + </p> + <p> + “I am bound to find out for myself,” he continued, and suiting + the action to the word, he endeavored to lift one of the shawls that + covered the sarcophagus. + </p> + <p> + The moment his purpose became evident, the custodians seized his hands, + and half a dozen Moslems who had been standing round made a vigorous + forward movement. + </p> + <p> + They would have ejected him in a moment, had not our guide interfered, and + possibly they would have brained him. + </p> + <p> + It is a serious matter to touch things in a mosque, and this experience + taught the “Doubter” a lesson which he remembered at least an + hour. <span class="pagenum">161</span><a name="link161" id="link161"></a>We + visited the tombs of several Turkish Sultans, and finally reached the + mosque of Saint Sophia, a little before noon, so as to make a hasty survey + of the lower part of the edifice before the people assembled for prayer. + </p> + <p> + I will not attempt a detailed description, as it would be very long, and + interesting only to an architect. + </p> + <p> + Suffice it to say, that the church was originally very nearly a square—two + hundred and fifty feet by two hundred and twenty-five—and the height + of the cupola is about two hundred feet. Since it was dedicated to the + worship of Mohammed, minarets have been built around it, and some of the + external features have been changed. There are numerous columns of + porphyry, black and white marble, Egyptian and other granite, and + alabaster, and various colored stones. The abundance of columns, the + galleries at the side, and the richness of the interior generally, form + quite a contrast to the plainness of the other mosques, and one would + hardly need be told that he is in an ancient church of Christendom. + </p> + <p> + The mosaics which represented biblical subjects, have been covered in + part, but to so slight an extent that their richness is fully perceptible. + Thus, for example, the four Cherubim in the base of the cupola are clearly + visible, all except the faces, which are concealed by patches of cloth of + gold. The same is the case with other mosaics where figures are + delineated. + </p> + <p> + All mosques are built so that the <i>mihrab</i> or altar placed against + one of the walls shall be nearest to Mecca, and the worshippers, while + looking toward this altar, shall be looking toward the Holy City. Strips + of carpet are laid upon the matting which covers the floor, and on these + strips the worshippers kneel, so that they are in rows exactly as if + seated in the pews of a church. Saint Sophia was not properly placed for + Mohammedan worship, and consequently the mihrab is at one side and the + strips of carpet are stretched diagonally, so that they materially mar the + architectural effect of the building. It is also injured by numerous + ostrich eggs, which are suspended by long wires or cords, and by Moslem + chandeliers, which do not harmonize with the walls and pillars of the + edifice. <span class="pagenum">162</span><a name="link162" id="link162"></a>As + the hour of prayer approached we mounted the gallery to look at the + assembled congregation. By twelve o’clock the mosque was fairly + filled—the worshippers in lines or files on the strip of carpet, + reminding one of a regiment of infantry, in columns of companies. Each man + brought his shoes in his left hand with the soles placed against each + other, and as he took his position in one of the lines, he laid his shoes + in front of him on the open space between his strip of carpet and the next + one. Rich and poor prayed side by side, and were all considered equal in + the sight of God. Occasionally there was a person with a prayer-carpet of + his own, which had been brought and spread by a servant, but these + instances were not numerous. + </p> + <p> + The prophet is entitled to much consideration for some of his enactments + which we find in the Koran. Cleanliness is enjoined upon the worshipper, + and in compliance with this injunction the Moslems wash their hands and + arms before prayers; and if water cannot be had for this purpose, they + make use of sand. This is the custom before the daily prayers. + </p> + <p> + On Friday (the Moslem Sunday), the true believer takes a bath and becomes + so clean that he might be used for a dinner-plate on an emergency. + </p> + <p> + There is always a fountain in the court yard of the mosque, and here, + those whose feet and hands are not clean proceed to wash themselves before + entering the sacred building. The floor of the mosque is scrupulously + clean, and the removal of shoes or boots is required, not as a religious + observance, as many suppose, but; in order that no dirt may be left on the + matting. You can wear your boots in a mosque, provided you have large + slippers to go over them, or if you wear overshoes and remove them at the + door. Sometimes the custodians have large slippers which you can hire, and + sometimes they tie your feet in napkins, allowing you to retain your + boots. + </p> + <p> + The congregation was a masculine one; the Koran does not prohibit women + from entering the mosque or attending prayers there, but says it is better + for them to pray in private. It also hints that the devotional feelings of + the men are likely to be reduced, if women are near them during the public + service, and that it is far better that there should be no such + distraction. <span class="pagenum">163</span><a name="link163" id="link163"></a>Mohammed + knew what he was about, and understood human weaknesses when he wrote the + Koran, and prescribed the formulas of his religion. + </p> + <p> + There is an erroneous belief among the Western nations that Mohammed + denied women the possession of souls. The Koran, in several places, + promises paradise to all true believers, whether male or female, and + enjoins women to be faithful and obedient to the laws of the Prophet. But + as Moslem women are secluded on earth, the natural inference is that they + will not occupy a high social position hereafter. The <i>houris</i>, or + spiritual wives, which are promised to the believers, render women of no + future consequence in the eyes of a masculine Moslem, and hence it is not + likely that he cares a straw whether his wives of this earth go to + Paradise or stay away from it. + </p> + <p> + The prayers were recited by an Iman or priest, who stood on the top of the + pulpit, in company with other priests. From my position I was not able to + see clearly all that was done at the pulpit, but I could see that the + prayers were quite analogous to the mass of the Catholic church, and + included readings, chant-ings and responses, with frequent bowings and + genuflections on the part of the people. The congregation moved as a unit; + when one man bowed, all bowed; when he knelt, all knelt; when he + prostrated himself, the rest did likewise. The service was an impressive + one in every respect, and the most casual observer could not fail to see + that every worshipper felt the solemnity of the place and occasion. + </p> + <p> + The following illustration is an exact <i>facsimile</i> of the opening + chapter of the Koran. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0069" id="linkimage-0069"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0173.jpg" alt="0173 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0173.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">164</span><a name="link164" id="link164"></a>This + has been anglicized by Rodwell as follows: + </p> + <p> + 1 Bismillahi’ rahmani’ rraheem + </p> + <p> + 2 El-hamdoo lillahi rabi’lalameen + </p> + <p> + 3 Arrahamani’ raheem + </p> + <p> + 4 Maliki yowmi-d-deen + </p> + <p> + 5 Eyaka naboodoo waéyaka nestâeen + </p> + <p> + 6 Ihdina’ ssirat almostakeem + </p> + <p> + 7 Sirat alezeena anamta aleihim, gheiri’lmoghdoobi aleihim wala’daleen. + Ameen. + </p> + <p> + Burton made a rhyming translation of the same, which I herewith give. + </p> + <p> + 1 In the Name of Allah, the Merciful the Compassionate! + </p> + <p> + 2 Praise be to Allah who the three worlds made, + </p> + <p> + 3 The Merciful the Compassionate. + </p> + <p> + 4 The King of the day of Fate. + </p> + <p> + 5 Thee alone do we worship and of thee alone do we ask aid. + </p> + <p> + 6 Guide us to the path that is straight— + </p> + <p> + 7 The path of those to whom thy love is great, + </p> + <p> + Not those on whom is hate, + </p> + <p> + Nor they that deviate. Amen. + </p> + <p> + And now let me say a word to the Infidel, and show him how much he gains + or loses by not being a Moslem. + </p> + <p> + The first article of faith is: “There is no God but God.” + </p> + <p> + In chapter 112 of the Koran, his unity is set forth thus: “Say he is + God, one God, God is the Eternal. He begetteth not, nor is he begotten; + and there is none equal unto him.” The Moslems believe that Christ + was the Messiah, and brought the gospel upon the earth; they do not call + him the Son of God—but simply a prophet or apostle. They believe he + was taken up to Heaven after having accomplished his mission, and that he + will come again on earth to establish the Moslem religion. + </p> + <p> + The second article of faith is: “Mohammed is the Prophet of God.” + </p> + <p> + The Moslems acknowledge six prophets—Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, + Christ, and Mohammed—and that each brought a system of revealed + religion. They claim that each system was a true one, but was abrogated by + that which followed it. + </p> + <p> + Consequently, Christianity was the true faith from the begin<span + class="pagenum">165</span><a name="link165" id="link165"></a>ning of our + era down to the time of Mohammed, except when it was corrupted by the + belief that Christ was the Son of God. + </p> + <p> + They believe in the existence of angels and good and evil genii, in the + immortality of the soul, in resurrection and judgment, in future rewards + and punishments, in the balance of good and evil works, and in a bridge + formed of the edge of a sword over the centre of hell. All must cross this + bridge; the good pass safely over and enter Paradise, but the wicked fall + from its centre. + </p> + <p> + The Moslem faith is much weakened in those parts of the Orient that have + had familiar intercourse with the Occident. + </p> + <p> + Temperance is enjoined by the Koran, but there are thousands of Moslems in + Turkey and Egypt who drink wine and spirits without hesitation. As the + Moslem becomes civilized and enlightened, he generally proceeds to get + drunk; and the more he is instructed in the ways of Christianity, the + drunker he becomes. Of course, there are many exceptions; but they only + prove the correctness of the rule, and our missionaries in the Orient must + deeply lament that the injunction to sobriety is less severe in + Christianity than in the religion it seeks to displace. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0070" id="linkimage-0070"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/5175.jpg" alt="5175 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/5175.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">166</span><a name="link166" id="link166"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0071" id="linkimage-0071"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0176.jpg" alt="0176 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0176.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI—WHIRLING AND HOWLING DERVISHES—WHO AND WHAT THEY + ARE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Dervishes of Constantinople, What are They?—How They Live and + What They Do—Unclean and Devout Beggars—Where They Bury their + Dead—Opening their Circus—Removing the “Doubter’s” + Boots—An Amusing Situation—Clearing the Floor—Human + Top-Spinning—Dropping into Jelly-bags—A Pliable Lot of Living + Corpses—The Howling Dervishes—Where and How they Live—A + House Full of Madmen—A Shrieking Chant—“La Hah il Allah”—Stirring + up the Wild Beasts—Spectators Joining in the Chorus—Horrible + Superstitious Rites—Treading on Sick Children—Reaching + Paradise by Bodily Tortures—A Sad Disappointment—The Founder + of the Sect and Who He Was—Pulling Teeth as a Proof of Sanctity.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">O</span>NE of the + stock-sights of Constantinople is the performances of the dervishes, which + can be witnessed every Friday throughout the year. + </p> + <p> + The dervishes are to Islam what the bare-footed friars are to Christendom; + they are men whose lives are devoted to holiness and idleness in unequal + portions, and they subsist upon charity or from the endowment of their + mosques. + </p> + <p> + Most of the orders of dervishes in Constantinople, Damascus, and Cairo, + have comfortable homes and very little to do; the members say their + prayers daily, and devote an hour to their peculiar worship on Friday, and + beyond this they do very little. But there are many dervishes not as well + off, who are obliged to work or beg in order to make an honest living, and + they greatly resemble Christian monks, in preferring beggary to labor. + They argue that they have more time to devote to religious observances + <span class="pagenum">167</span><a name="link167" id="link167"></a>in the + former case than in the latter, and therefore it is the duty of the less + pious public to support them in idleness. But the public does not always + see it in this light, and hence the dervishes sometimes find begging + unprofitable, and are forced into respectable occupations. The dervishes + are a lazy and uncleanly set. They profess to live a life of abstinence, + but I was told of cases where they have been known to drink rum with great + devotion. + </p> + <p> + The most noted of the dervishes are the Whirling and Howling sects; + sometimes the former are called Dancers, and the latter Singers, but it is + a libel upon dancing and singing to call them so. The performance of the + Whirling Dervishes resembles dancing about as much as a frog resembles a + prairie chicken; the Howling Dervishes could give a pack of wolves + seventy-five points in the game and beat them easily, and their devotional + exercises resemble singing as much as the noise of a monster tin-shop + resembles the opera of <i>Trovatore</i>, as rendered at the London and + Paris opera houses. + </p> + <p> + My first visit to these gentry was at the convent of the Whirling + Dervishes. It is situated on the hill of Pera, close by the principal + hotels, thus affording an agreeable contrast to our excursions among the + mosques and bazaars, which requires a long walk to Stamboul. The convent + covers quite an area, and has a neat garden and several cosy buildings. I + was told that the convent owns several surrounding buildings, and that the + income from these furnishes a very good revenue, on which the dervishes + live comfortably. In the garden in front of the building there are the + tombs of several “ex-whirlers,” and I was told that it is the + practice of the monks to bury their dead on their own premises, instead of + sending them to the Mount Auburn of Constantinople. + </p> + <p> + These dervishes are a decent lot of fellows, much less fanatical than the + “howlers,” and always, ready to allow strangers to attend + their circus, on condition that they leave their boots at the door and + behave themselves, while the curtain is up. + </p> + <p> + Our party of half-a-dozen went there rather ahead of time, and was obliged + to wait in the front yard for the opening of the hall. Some of the + dervishes were around there and treated us just as they treated the fence + or the gate posts. They said nothing <span class="pagenum">168</span><a + name="link168" id="link168"></a>to us nor we to them, except that our + guide made a feeble effort to ascertain when the affair would begin. + </p> + <p> + By the time the doors were opened the party of spectators numbered thirty + or more—all strangers like ourselves. There was the usual trouble in + removing boots, and the “Doubter” was obliged to call a couple + of Turkish loafers to assist him in getting his feet in order, for + admission. He caused considerable delay, and it was suggested that for the + future he had better leave his boots at home, and set up for a monk of the + bare-footed order. + </p> + <p> + When we were properly un-booted we were allowed to pass the doorway and + stand in the interior of the convent. + </p> + <p> + The building is quite plain; the part that we saw was circular, and + consisted of a space in the centre for sacred waltzes, with a floor + carefully polished, and waxed to such an extent that it lacked very little + to render it useful as a mirror. Around this arena there was a low + balustrade, and between this balustrade and the walls was the station of + the spectators. Our party of foreigners was allowed about a quarter of the + space surrounding the ring, another portion was assigned to the musicians, + while the remainder was devoted to Moslem spectators! Above this floor was + a gallery supported by graceful columns; a part of the gallery was + assigned to Moslem women, and there was a <i>loge</i> or box for the + Sultan whenever he chooses to honor the dervishes with his presence. At + one corner is a little box for women, furnished with gratings for them to + peep through. + </p> + <p> + The ornamentation of the ball room was as simple as that of the mosques—no + pictures nor statuary, but only texts from the Koran, some of them highly + illuminated. On the left hung a large board, like a table of laws; to what + use it could be put was a puzzle. Lamps are hung all around the building. + To the right of the place of worship, under a projecting roof, and of an + octagonal form, is a marble fountain, of fine execution. Here devout + Moslems perform their ablutions, before entering the main theatre. + </p> + <p> + We waited some time, and it was no easy matter to wait, as we had to rest + like the party at a public dinner when somebody proposes the memory of + Washington—standing and in silence. + </p> + <p> + After a while a solemn old fellow wearing a hat an inch thick and shaped + like a sugar-loaf, entered the ring and squatted on a <span class="pagenum">169</span><a + name="link169" id="link169"></a>small carpet which was spread just + opposite the entrance. As soon as he was seated, the rest of the party, to + the number of twenty-five or thirty, made their <i>entrée</i> and bowed + very low before the first comer. He was <i>sheik</i>, or chief of the lot; + the rest were the rank and file—the common fellows who were obliged + to wait his orders. + </p> + <p> + They did not come in with a rush, but very slowly, one and two at a time, + so that they consumed at least a quarter of an hour in getting into their + places. + </p> + <p> + In bowing to the <i>sheik</i> they bent their bodies so that their backs + became horizontal, and I longed for a spirit-level that I might ascertain + if these fellows were on the square. Each of them wore a sugar-loaf hat + like that of the boss, and like his, made of coarse felt of a reddish grey + color. Each was wrapped in a long cloak of dark blue cloth, and as they + stood in their places, they held these cloaks tightly around them. Later—after + the service began, they threw aside these robes and revealed a long skirt + of the same color, and not unlike a hoopless petticoat in its general + appearance. The skirt was wide at the base, but gathered closely at the + waist, and the part above the waist was by no means a bad fit. + </p> + <p> + The prayers began with the <i>sheik</i> in the centre, and there were many + prostrations, bows and genuflections before they were ended. Then there + was a chant, which was taken up by the orchestra, in which the only + instruments were flutes and light drums or <i>darboukas</i>. The music was + not at all disagreeable, but, like all Oriental melody, had a good deal of + monotony mingled with its plaintiveness. Up to the opening of the music, + the dervishes were standing in the arena, and as it began, they closed + their eyes, and seemed to be indulging in a species of intoxication. In a + few minutes one of them began to turn mechanically, and at the same time + opened and extended his arms with the palm of his left hand turned upward, + while that of the right was downward. + </p> + <p> + Scarcely was he under way before another, and then another set his engines + in motion, and in a few minutes the whole party was under a full head of + steam. They whirled so rapidly that the centrifugal force caused their + skirts to expand and stand out <span class="pagenum">170</span><a + name="link170" id="link170"></a>at a sharp angle to the perpendicular, + just as you have seen the dress of a fashionable woman extend itself + during an exciting waltz. Sometimes they reminded me of so many pieces of + machinery—their skirts forming a sort of cone. + </p> + <p> + These dervishes perform the double feat of whirling round and moving + onwards at the same time. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0072" id="linkimage-0072"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9180.jpg" alt="9180 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9180.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Occasionally they revolve for awhile with both arms extended, like + windmills. + </p> + <p> + Half of them appear to have their eyes closed, and to be dancing in a sort + of drunken ecstacy, but somehow they did not run against each other, and + the performance went on in good order. The chief whirled a little while + with the rest, and then he moved about in the group urging the slow ones + to whirl faster, and occasionally hurrying up the musicians, by beating + time with his hands to a somewhat quicker measure. After a while he halted + the music a couple of minutes, and the “whirlers”. slowed down + to half speed and wiped off the perspiration. Several of the “whirlers” + now drove back the surrounding crowd with sticks, and for about two + minutes I thought there was a lively prospect of a first-class row. + </p> + <p> + The halt did not long continue. The chief gave a signal and the music + began again as lively as “St. Patrick’s Day in the Morning,” + for it was in double quick time, and made warm work for the gentlemen + engaged. The whirling was now in dead earnest, and made the skirts expand + like those of the première danseuse executing a <i>pas seul</i> when she + revolves across the stage <span class="pagenum">171</span><a name="link171" + id="link171"></a>in her <i>finale</i> which is to secure her the + thundering plaudits of the audience. + </p> + <p> + They whirled. + </p> + <p> + And whirled. + </p> + <p> + And they kept on whirling. + </p> + <p> + And they whirled some more. + </p> + <p> + And they kept it up until the brains of the spectators were in a whirl, + and some of them (spectators, not brains) had their money’s worth + and went away. + </p> + <p> + After a while one of the dervishes threw up the sponge (figuratively), by + sinking down on the floor in a state of exhaustion and perspiration. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0073" id="linkimage-0073"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8181.jpg" alt="8181 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8181.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He was as pliable as a jelly-fish, and the attendants who came to his + relief handled him with care through an apparent fear that he would drop + to pieces. Soon another fell, and then a third, and then a fourth, and + then the chief gave the signal for stopping the <i>roulette</i>. The + dervishes had been on the whirl nearly twenty minutes, and were quite + ready to finish the game. Towards the end I noticed that the toes of some + of them were terribly cramped, and the veins of their feet swollen like + drum cords. + </p> + <p> + They gathered up their morning wrappers, and after bowing profoundly to + their chief, walked slowly from the room. This was the end of the affair, + and we returned to the outer door where we mounted our boots, paid our + “backsheesh” and departed. + </p> + <p> + None of these dervishes were corpulent, but whether from accident or + design I am unable to say. They were all of a lean and hungry build, and + all were pale in the face except one, who <span class="pagenum">172</span><a + name="link172" id="link172"></a>was a negro, and couldn’t have paled + however much he wished to. Their exercise is not calculated to develop + obesity, and if one should grow fat he would be obliged to change his + profession, as he couldn’t keep up with the rest without killing + himself with overwork. Their faces were not prepossessing as a general + thing; some had a pleasing cast of features, but the majority were of an + aspect decidedly forbidding. + </p> + <p> + Before we left the place I told our guide that I could give the chief a + hint which might be of service to him. + </p> + <p> + “Tell the <i>sheik</i> that we have machinery in America which we + use for drying clothes in large laundries. The clothes are put into a + cylinder which revolves above five thousand times a minute, and throws the + moisture out by the centrifugal force.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, but that no good would be for ze dervish. He dry his clothes + just like somebody else, and no have much clothes to dry.” + </p> + <p> + “Not for his clothes,” I replied, “but for the service + we have just attended. Let them erect such a machine in their ball-room, + and have it large enough to hold all the worshippers. Put them inside and + start the engine, and they could do more whirling in, fifteen minutes than + they can do in a week in the old fashioned way.” + </p> + <p> + “I think ze Moslem no like such machine, but I speak to ze <i>sheik</i> + next time I see him. How much cost one machine?” + </p> + <p> + I went on to explain its cost and advantages to the innocent guide, who + did not suspect that he was being hoaxed. Whether he spoke to the + dervishes about it or not, I am unable to say, but at all events he never + made any report of the matter to me. + </p> + <p> + The “Howling Dervishes” are another sort of devotees. Their + convent where I visited them was more like a mosque than was that of the + Whirlers, as it was much larger and had a high roof. The walls were bare + of ornament, except of inscriptions from the Koran; on the side, where + stood the altar, there was a lot of implements of warfare, including + spears, arrows, old matchlocks, swords and various other odds and ends, + all of an ancient appearance. We went through the usual process of leaving + our boots at the door, but we were not obliged to stand during the + performance. A polite attendant brought chairs enough for seating all the + strangers, and thus made us comfortable. <span class="pagenum">173</span><a + name="link173" id="link173"></a>There were about fifty worshippers, and + they stood in a semicircle, with their chief inside. He began a low chant + which included one of the chapters of the Koran, and was joined in the + chant by the rest of the party. + </p> + <p> + At each verse they threw their heads forward, with a jerk, and immediately + threw them backwards. The chant was very soon concluded, and without any + pause the chief started the formula, “la Hah! il Alla!” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0074" id="linkimage-0074"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0183.jpg" alt="0183 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0183.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Now we began to understand why these pious individuals were called “howlers.” + The sound that they produced was more like the noise of a menagerie, when + the keeper stirs up the beasts, than like the tones of the human voice. It + was a rough and rather prolonged bark and howl, in which the word Allah! + was all that could be understood. The movement of the head became an + inclination of the whole body from the hips upward; at one instant the men + were bent nearly double, and at the next they had their heads thrown + forward, so that their faces were horizontal, and there seemed a + probability that the worshippers would fall backward. + </p> + <p> + They had removed their turbans, as no head-dress could stand this wild + motion, unless glued or nailed on. Many of them wore their hair long, and + the masses of <i>chevelure</i> swung in the air like <span class="pagenum">174</span><a + name="link174" id="link174"></a>so many dirty mops, from which a + kitchen-maid is endeavoring to shake the superfluous water. + </p> + <p> + The noise became frightful, and several ladies of the visiting party, as + well as some of the gentlemen, had their money’s worth in a very + little while. + </p> + <p> + Every minute or two some of the dervishes fell exhausted to the floor; two + foamed at the mouth and became wildly insane, so that it was necessary for + others to hold them, or carry them out of the room. + </p> + <p> + There were several negroes in the room, and I observed that they howled + the worst and were first to become frenzied. They raved like mad men, and + indeed they were for a time furiously mad. I am sure Bedlam would be + considered a quiet and well-behaved place, in comparison with the mosque + of the “Howling Dervishes.” + </p> + <p> + There were fifty or more Moslem spectators, and some of those on-lookers + became so excited that they joined in the service and soon were as + frenzied as the rest. Among them was a soldier—a negro—who had + not been five minutes in the charmed circle before he fell writhing to the + floor, and foamed at the mouth, as though he had swallowed an entire soda + fountain. + </p> + <p> + The spectacle is far more disagreeable than that of the whirling + dervishes. You want to go away, and you are held there by a strange + fascination; you cannot imagine how things can be any worse than they are + five minutes after the howling has begun, and yet you know perfectly well + that it will be much worse before the end. You feel that you have had + enough and you want to go, and then you feel that you ought to stay, as + you will miss some of the fun by leaving. + </p> + <p> + I don’t know a place where one is more swayed by conflicting + emotions than while assisting at the devotional exercises of these + gentlemen. I think an American or Englishman feels very much as did the + tender-hearted Romans (if there were any), at the gladiatorial combats in + the Coliseum, or at the <i>matinees</i>, where the Christians “on + the half-shell” were served up to tigers that had been on short + rations for a fortnight. + </p> + <p> + Civilization in its advance into the Orient has robbed these + dervish-entertainments of some of their interesting features. <span + class="pagenum">175</span><a name="link175" id="link175"></a>While the + howling was going on, people used to bring sick persons, particularly + children, and place them on a sheepskin spread on the floor inside the + semi-circle. The chief stood upon these invalids and danced about on them, + and this homoeopathic treatment was supposed to do the patients much good. + If they recovered, it was natural enough that their cure should be + considered miraculous; if they died it was in accordance with the will of + God, and the dervishes could not be blamed for an occasional failure. + </p> + <p> + Then they used to wrap barbed chains around themselves, or around any + person who had an inquiring turn of mind and wished to make an experiment. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0075" id="linkimage-0075"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8185.jpg" alt="8185 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8185.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + They took down some of the swords and spears, and stuck the points into + their arms and legs without manifesting any pain. In fact, they practiced + a variety of tortures, or what seemed so to the infidel spectator. + </p> + <p> + When I went to the show that day, I was expecting a delightful time, as I + had been reading a book in which all these entertainments were described. + Soon after we entered the mosque, an officer with a couple of policemen at + his side, came into the room and took his place against the wall, and + inside the semi-circle, which was just then forming. + </p> + <p> + “What is that officer here for?” I inquired of the guide. + </p> + <p> + “He comes to regulate the behavior of the dervishes. To see that + they do not tread on sick children, as they used to do, and to prevent the + devotees from lacerating themselves.” + </p> + <p> + “And shall we have no tortures to-day?” + </p> + <p> + “None at all. The government forbids it.” + </p> + <p> + Imagine my disappointment. I had expected to lunch full of horrors, + without returning to the hotel, and here I was cut down <span + class="pagenum">176</span><a name="link176" id="link176"></a>to seeing a + lot of grown men make temporary maniacs of themselves, and to hear the + worst human howling that ever saluted my cars. All the beautiful pictures + that my fancy had painted of seeing sick children trodden under the feet + of the priests, and pious devotees cutting themselves with swords and + spears, had quite vanished and would never be realized. + </p> + <p> + The age of sentiment is gone. Shall we ever welcome its return? + </p> + <p> + The Oriental governments are slow to move, but they do move after all. + Moslem fanaticism is every year diminishing, and many of its cruelties are + brought to an end. Occidental civilization in its aggressive course has + accomplished much, and will do more as time rolls on. + </p> + <p> + Most of these sects are not held in great esteem by the people, though + there are many Moslems who believe that the whirling, howling, and other + performances of these gentry, are caused by divine inspiration, and + consequently should be held in reverence. + </p> + <p> + The Turkish government has on several occasions contemplated the + suppression of some of the orders of dervishes, particularly those that + possess considerable wealth. There are persons uncharitable enough to + suppose that this contemplated suppression is induced by the fact that the + property of the dervishes would revert to the government in case the sects + were discontinued. + </p> + <p> + Some of the sects have a great deal of fasting and prayer, and make their + ceremonies interesting by the addition of various bodily tortures. It is + said that a sect was founded in the first century of the Hegira by a holy + man named Uvies. Among other farewells to worldly pleasures, he required + his followers to draw all their teeth, in remembrance of the Prophet’s + loss of two teeth at a battle on behalf of Islam. Painless dentistry was + not, then in vogue, as nobody had discovered chloroform, ether, or + laughing gas. Uvies did not get very far with his sect, and it expired + soon after his death. Another pious Moslem tried to start a sect of + dervishes in which every member should have his eyes put out during the + ceremony of initiation. He was obliged to be chief and all hands, as he + never found anybody to join his order. The devout Mohammedans couldn’t + see it. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">177</span><a name="link177" id="link177"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0076" id="linkimage-0076"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0187.jpg" alt="0187 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0187.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII—ON THE BOSPHORUS.—AMONG THE ISLES OF GREECE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Far-Away Moses, the Famous Guide—His Numerous Brothers—His + Shop in the Great Bazaar—An Evening at the “Foreign Club”—Dreaming + of Polyglots and the Tower of Babel—More “Backsheesh”—Passing + the Custom House—How they Protect Home Manufactures—Standing + Up for One’s Own Country—“Honesty ish te Besht Bolicy”—Borrowing + Money at Twenty per cent.—The Start from Constantinople—A hint + to Travelers—Sleeping in Public on the Stage—Interviewing the + Purser—A Satisfactory Arrangement—Baron Bruck and his Career—Unwelcome + Intruders—Classic Ground—One Trifling Peculiarity.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span> HAD “done” + the sights of Constantinople—bazaars, mosques, dogs, dervishes and + other things—and was ready to depart. + </p> + <p> + I had even “done” and been “done” by Far-Away + Moses, the famous guide whom Mark Twain has sent down to posterity, and + had bought several articles in his shop. + </p> + <p> + Moses is guide and merchant, and when he is not attending to business in + the one branch he is attending to it in the other. + </p> + <p> + He is a dignified Oriental with a Jewish cast of features, and he bows in + a way that Mr. Turveydrop would envy. He has a shop—one shop—in + the Great Bazaar, but a stranger might suppose that he owned half of + Constantinople. + </p> + <p> + The guides and runners are on the lookout for Americans and are always + ready to take them to the shop of Far-Away Moses. The joke of the matter + is that they take them somewhere else, where they can get a larger + commission on purchases, and invariably tell you that it is the shop of + the venerable F. A. M., Esq. If you are familiar with the features of + Moses, they tell you he is just out but you can trade quite as well with + his brother who is <span class="pagenum">178</span><a name="link178" + id="link178"></a>on hand to accommodate you. But if you have not met the + original you are introduced to some English-speaking Turk, Jew, or + Christian who affectionately inquires after Mark Twain and hopes he is + well and happy. + </p> + <p> + I think about seven dozen “brothers of Far-Away Moses” were + pointed out to me, and they resembled him, each other, and themselves, + about as much as a cup of coffee resembles a row of mixed drinks in an + American bar room. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0077" id="linkimage-0077"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9188.jpg" alt="9188 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9188.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Moses admits that like the friend of Toodles “he had a brother” + but he denies fraternal relations with all the “brothers” that + hang about the bazaars and hotels. + </p> + <p> + Moses narrates an experience of his mercantile life such as we sometimes + hear of in America. He shipped a lot of goods to Vienna at the time of the + Exposition, and on these goods he figured a handsome profit on his mental + slate. They were sent by steamer to Trieste, and thence by rail to Vienna. + On arrival the boxes were found to contain old iron, straw, and pieces of + wood, and Moses was in great grief, for the original lot had cost him + about six hundred pounds sterling. + </p> + <p> + He tried to recover, but the two companies—steamboat and railway—played + “Spenlow and Jorkins” on him most admirably. Each said that + the robbery must have occurred while the boxes were in charge of the other + concern, and after much trouble Moses received nothing by way of + indemnity. Neither company would pay a centime until the locality of the + robbery had been proved, and as this could not be shown, there was no + payment. And to add to the loss he could not even recover the freight + charges, which he had paid in full before removing the boxes from the + railway station and discovering his loss. <span class="pagenum">179</span><a + name="link179" id="link179"></a>It rained cats and dogs for two days + before I left, and, as Turkish sight-seeing requires fair weather, I was + kept imprisoned most of that time in the hotel. Our Consul-General, Mr. + Good-enow, kindly introduced me to the Foreign Club and enabled me to + break the monotony of the evenings with a few hours in the luxurious house + where the association has its home. To judge by the appearance of the + club, its cuisine, and other things, the foreigners in Constantinople know + how to live well, and are determined to practice what they know. + </p> + <p> + The club includes many nationalities—English, French, American, + German, Russian, Italian, Greek, Spanish, Swiss, and others,—in its + membership, and a visit to its rooms gives one an idea of the cosmopolitan + character of the population of the Queen City of the Orient. Turks are not + excluded, a Turkish gentleman being just as eligible to membership as any + other. Diplomates, merchants, bankers, government officials, gentlemen of + fortune with nothing to do, and the other miscellaneous characters that + make up a club in a large city, were pointed out to me among the members + that dined and lounged in the club-house. + </p> + <p> + French was the prevailing language, but you would hear enough of other + tongues in the course of an evening to make you dream all night of the + Tower of Babel, and the unhappy gentlemen that found it a losing + speculation. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of our departure the weather cleared up, and we had the + satisfaction of bidding farewell to Constantinople under a bright sky and + in the glow of a warm sunshine. Our baggage was piled on the backs of some + able-bodied porters, and we followed it and them down the hill of Pera, in + the same solemn procession as we first mounted it. + </p> + <p> + The Custom House was lenient in consequence of a “backsheesh” + of two francs, and the odds and ends that we had bought in the city were + not disturbed. + </p> + <p> + Two of our party had laid in a liberal supply of Broussa silks and other + specialties of Constantinople, and consequently they did not want the + officials to be inquisitive. They thought they got off cheap at two + francs, and I think they did. + </p> + <p> + And here is a good place to say something about the export duty on Turkish + manufactures. <span class="pagenum">180</span><a name="link180" + id="link180"></a>The English, as we all know, are very earnest in + advancing free trade; they have it, and want everybody else to enjoy its + blessings. Whether their theories are right or wrong I do not propose to + discuss, as I am not writing a book on political economy. England believes + emphatically in free trade—free export and free import—and + every Englishman would tell you that a tax on manufactured exports would + be the very thing to cripple home industries. + </p> + <p> + I have been informed, whether with absolute truth I cannot say, but I + believe my authority was good, that the Turkish export tax was imposed in + consequence of the advice of the then British Minister at Constantinople. + The Turkish cabinet sought his advice as to the best means of encouraging + manufacture in the Ottoman empire and making them a source of revenue. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing simpler,” replied His Excellency the British + Minister; “put a tax on your exports; make all your manufactures + exported to foreign countries pay a tax, say, of ten per cent., and you + will make a handsome revenue for the treasury, and enable the manufacturer + to realize such, a profit as to stimulate your home industries to a + wonderful extent. The protection and encouragement of home enterprise is + the first duty of every government. England keeps a careful watch over her + manufacturing interests and does everything to stimulate them, and you can + see the result in the immense prosperity of our island.” + </p> + <p> + The embassador was faithful to the land he represented; he wasn’t + going to make an ass of himself by telling the Turks anything that would + tend to the injury of British commerce. If manufacturing industry was + developed in Turkey, it would very likely interfere, in some branches, + with Birmingham or Manchester, and this is what no true English + representative would wish. + </p> + <p> + I like to see a man stand up for his country and his friends. + </p> + <p> + If you are a lawyer or bootmaker, a doctor or blacksmith, in a country + village with just business enough for one, you don’t want a rival + setting up there, and if any young fellow wants to know how to start in + your trade and is determined to try, it is necessary to lie to him and put + him on the wrong track, in order to be just to yourself and your family. + </p> + <p> + “Honesty ish de best bolicy,” said a clear headed German once + upon a time, “but it keeps a man tam poor.” + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">181</span><a name="link181" id="link181"></a>When + your advice is asked by your neighbor, don’t fly away with the + notion that you want to do him any good. + </p> + <p> + Remember that charity and all other noble sentiments should begin at home, + and be careful not to advise him to anything that will interfere with + yourself. + </p> + <p> + Turkish manufactures have been for some time in a languishing condition. + In the early part of the present century Turkey had several important + industrial centres; the most noted of them were Bagdad, Aleppo, Dierbeker, + Broussa, Smyrna, Scutari, and Tournovo. Aleppo alone had forty thousand + weavers engaged in i making goods of silk or cotton, either mixed or + single, and in producing cloth of silk or gold thread, for which Aleppo + was famous. The city now has scarcely a fifth of her former number i of + weavers; and in the other places, where there were extensive + manufacturers, the business has fallen off in about equal proportion. + Improved machinery in England and France, and the heavy taxes on + manufactures, have caused the decline; and though the government has + sought to revive Turkish industry, it has not yet succeeded. + </p> + <p> + The export trade of Turkey consists mainly of raw materials, such as wool, + silk, cotton, tobacco, wheat, drugs, dyes, opium, honey, and sponges. The + principal manufactured exports are carpets and red cloths. The value of + the imports is about double that of the exports, and much of the raw stuff + sent out of Turkey comes back in the shape of manufactured goods. And this + state of affairs is steadily increasing. + </p> + <p> + Turkey has become so far civilized that she has saddled herself with a + stupendous debt, borrowing the money in Europe, at enormous rates of + interest, and then borrowing the money to pay that interest with. She has + about as much prospect of paying it as the President of the Fat Men’s + Association has of learning to fly and setting up for a carrier pigeon. + She has miserable roads all through the interior of the country, and only + within a few years has she given any attention to building railways. She + has lots of palaces, and an immense fleet of iron-clads; and when any + luxury is wanted she always finds the money to buy it. + </p> + <p> + When I was in Constantinople the further construction of the railway, that + is intended to connect with the Austrian system, was <span class="pagenum">182</span><a + name="link182" id="link182"></a>stopped for the want of funds. “The + government is very hard pressed just now for money,” said one of the + officials, “and our docks and railways must wait.” + </p> + <p> + A week later the same gentleman met me and volunteered this important + information: + </p> + <p> + “Six hundred sea-coast breech-loading cannon have been ordered from + Krupp, the great fabricant of artillery, and the money for them is to be + deposited in Paris within the next two months.” + </p> + <p> + Krupp does not make breech-loading cannon for nothing, and he generally + has the money down before he makes them. + </p> + <p> + Turkey can find money enough when she wants palaces and ships of war, but + she can’t afford railways and docks. Remember, there are no docks at + Constantinople where a sea-going ship can lie. They want them, but cannot + afford the expense. + </p> + <p> + Now that I have had my growl, we will go on as if nothing had happened. + </p> + <p> + We were rowed out to the steamer which lay at anchor, with steam up, and + was announced to sail at ten o’clock. + </p> + <p> + For some reason the departure was delayed until nearly eleven, and in + consequence of this detention there was a row between the captain and + chief engineer. The latter was responsible for the consumption of coal; he + had been told that the steamer would sail at ten, and it was not fair to + burn up his coal while lying at anchor. + </p> + <p> + The captain replied chat he would sail when he got ready. Engineer + threatened to report to the management—captain told him to mind his + own business—and there were several other remarks of a lively + character. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the engineer retired below, the captain hustled some of his + friends over the side, and the steamer sailed. The threat to report to the + management had its effect. + </p> + <p> + Memorandum for travellers in the Orient: + </p> + <p> + When you feel that any imposition has been practised on you by any high <i>attaché</i> + of a steamship, don’t make a noisy row about it, but go quietly to + the one who has offended you, and in calm and dignified tones ask him to + give you the name and address of his managing director. Give him a card on + which to write it, thank him politely for the address and walk away. In + less than <span class="pagenum">183</span><a name="link183" id="link183"></a>ten + minutes you will obtain what you previously wanted, and quite likely more + than you expected. The captains do not like to have complaints going to + the management, and will do anything in reason to avoid it. + </p> + <p> + To illustrate:—I one day took passage on a steamer, and was on board + half an hour before she sailed. I went at once to the purser’s + office, paid my fare, and asked for a room. Purser said I could not have a + room, but must sleep on a sofa in the cabin. + </p> + <p> + Now, if there is one thing that I dislike more than another, it is to + sleep in public on the stage in presence of a crowded audience. I want a + room to myself when it can be had, as I know that while sleeping I appear + best alone. And I always secure my passage early for this very reason. In + the present instance, I had visited the office of the company in a vain + effort to secure a place. The agent told me the tickets were sold only by + the purser. + </p> + <p> + On the back of my ticket was the announcement that no room could be + secured until paid for. I waited around the office, and after the boat + left the port, half-a-dozen men, of the same nationality as the purser, + came and paid their fare, and were assigned to rooms. Then I went to the + office and complained of unjust treatment; the purser said he could do + nothing for me, and unless I was careful, I wouldn’t have so much as + a sofa in the cabin. + </p> + <p> + I went to the captain and complained, and the captain referred my case to + the purser. + </p> + <p> + Then I returned to the purser, and put on a calm exterior, though I felt + inside as explosive as an overcharged soda-fountain. + </p> + <p> + “Will you be so kind,” I said, “as to give me the + address of the managing director of this company?” + </p> + <p> + “Why do you want it?” + </p> + <p> + “I have occasion to write him a letter on business of the company.” + </p> + <p> + “What business?” + </p> + <p> + “A mere trifle. Never mind what it is. It will interest him, and be + beneficial to the company.” + </p> + <p> + “The name of the managing director is —————” + </p> + <p> + “Please write it on the back of this card,” and I gave him my + personal card, on which to inscribe the name. <span class="pagenum">184</span><a + name="link184" id="link184"></a>The purser turned red, pale, blue, green, + yellow, pink, crimson, ultra-marine, and scarlet; he could have sold his + face at a high price just then to a maker of kaleidoscopes. He began + writing, stopped, began again, and altogether was at least two minutes in + writing the name and postal direction. + </p> + <p> + When he had finished I took the card, stowed it away in my pocket, and + retired to the deck, where I proceeded to solace myself with a cigar and a + study of the receding shores. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0078" id="linkimage-0078"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0194.jpg" alt="0194 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0194.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Two minutes after I reached the deck, I saw the purser and captain in deep + consultation near the wheel-house. Two minutes later the purser, cap in + hand, came to me, and said to me that one of the reserved rooms had not + been claimed, and was at my disposal. Would I condescend to look at it? + </p> + <p> + I condescended, and descended to the cabin. The room was comfortable, and + all my fancy had painted it. I was mollified, thanked the purser for his + politeness, ordered the steward to! bring my baggage, and was speedily + installed in the apartment. The purser could not have been more civil to + the governor of the Fejee Islands than he was to me during the rest of the + voyage. + </p> + <p> + We steamed out of the harbor of Constantinople towards the Sea of Marmora. + </p> + <p> + First vanished the shipping in the Golden Horn, and the never-ceasing + stream of people crossing the bridge of boats. Then the irregular terraces + of many-colored houses in Fera and <span class="pagenum">185</span><a + name="link185" id="link185"></a>Golata were lost to sight, though to + memory dear; and then our eyes lingered on Stamboul with its + mosque-crowned hills, and the Seraglio palace with its surroundings of + groves jutting into the widening mouth of the Bosphorus. The sunlight + played on the roofs, and domes, and minarets of Stamboul, and brightened + the hills that formed the back-ground of the picture. + </p> + <p> + Long time the city remained in view, but at last it became a jagged strip + of white in the horizon, then a scarcely perceptible streak like a sandy + beach by the sea shore, and then it was lost to sight altogether. + </p> + <p> + I repeat what I have said elsewhere, that by far the best approach to + Constantinople is by the Black Sea, and not from the Sea of Marmora; not + only as concerns the city itself, but with reference to the charming + panorama of the Bosphorus, which becomes more and more brilliant each mile + that we advance, until at last the anchor drops at the entrance of the + Golden Horn, and we stand in front of the Queen of the Orient. + </p> + <p> + The steamer that carried us belonged to the Austrian Lloyds (Lloyd + Austriaco). + </p> + <p> + The company has a fleet of some forty steamers engaged in the navigation + of the Mediterranean and adjoining seas, and it has its headquarters at + Trieste. + </p> + <p> + In 1833 one Baron Bruck established at Trieste a reading room and marine + exchange similar to the celebrated Lloyd’s at London and from which + he took the name. The members of the exchange became a powerful company + for commercial and industrial purposes. + </p> + <p> + In 1836, it established a newspaper which still exists; in 1837, it + started a line of steamers; and in 1849, an institution devoted to + printing and art. It has become a most important association and exerts a + powerful influence upon the politics and finance of the Austrian Empire. + Its founder became the Austrian minister of finance, but owing to certain + jealousies he was removed in 1860. + </p> + <p> + His mortification at his downfall terminated in suicide. + </p> + <p> + To travel on the ships of this company costs on the average about twelve + dollars a day (gold), inclusive of passage, room, and meals. Wine is + charged extra, and the steward expects a financial remembrance when you + bid him farewell. <span class="pagenum">186</span><a name="link186" + id="link186"></a>The servant who has attended you at table is likewise on + hand when money is visible, and is generally more civil then than at other + times. + </p> + <p> + During most of the day the mountains on the coast of the Sea of Marmora + were in sight but too far away to be little more than outlines. We passed + the Dardanelles at night, while all of us were in our bunks, which proved + to be the happy hunting grounds of many members of the well-known sporting + family, <i>Cimex lectularius.</i> + </p> + <p> + We were not greatly refreshed by our slumber, and passed a unanimous vote + that the next time we were obliged to travel on that line we would seek + passage on another steamer. + </p> + <p> + Morning found us running among the islands of the Greek Archipelago, and + there was not an hour of the entire day when we did not have some of them + in sight. They had a bleak, barren appearance, as they contained scarcely + any trees on the sides visible to us, and the slopes of the rocky shores + were very steep. There were not many indications of inhabitants, but now + and then we could see villages near the water or perched high up the sides + of the mountains, where it evidently required a great deal of glue to make + them stick. + </p> + <p> + I am somewhat confused as to the names of the islands we passed and cannot + attempt to give them all. I will only venture on Lemnos, Skyros, Andros, + Tinos, and Kuthnos, and I won’t be very sure about these. There were + Delos and Naxos, Melos and Kimolos, Mykonos and Paros and there were more + ‘oses if anybody wants them. We were not a very large party and + there were more islands than enough to go around. And then there were some + other islands that like the lion in the boy’s picture book, couldn’t + get any prophet Daniel. + </p> + <p> + The Greek Archipelago is scattered around promiscuously; it would have + been vastly more convenient if the islands had been set up in rows like + potato-hills, but I suppose they would not have been so picturesque as + they are in their present arrangement. + </p> + <p> + I observed one geographical peculiarity and made a note of it, that every + island, without regard to size or position, was surrounded by water. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">187</span><a name="link187" id="link187"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0079" id="linkimage-0079"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0197.jpg" alt="0197 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0197.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII—SYRA, THE MARBLE ISLAND.—LIFE AT AN ATHENIAN + HOTEL. + </h2> + <p> + <i>In sight of Syra—Active Trade in one Fish—A town all built + of Marble—The “Doubter” expresses his sentiments—Gustave’s + Adventure—Walking on One’s Ear—“A little more + beer, boy!”—The Pirates’ Retreat—Extraordinary + politeness in a café—A lesson for American Barkeepers—In the + Stamboul’s Cabin—“Blowing great guns”—A tale + of a Tub—Honey and Marble—Standing in the city of Demosthenes—The + battle of the rival hotels—Profanity in an unknown tongue—Outgeneraling + Inn-keepers—Tricks on Travelers—Useful knowledge for Foreign + Travel.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span> LITTLE before + sunset we were drenched by a shower, and through the rifts of the heavy + clouds, I caught sight of the Island of Syra, the most important of the + insular possessions of Greece. + </p> + <p> + We entered the port and dropped anchor, a hundred yards from the <i>Stamboul</i>, + an old paddle steamer which was to convey us to the Piraeus. + </p> + <p> + Though we had bought tickets through to the latter port we found that we + must make the transfer at our own expense, it being the rule of the + company that all landings, embarkations, and transfers are at passenger’s + expense. + </p> + <p> + We waited till the rain ceased and then bargained with a boatman to take + us to the other ship; the transfer was an unpleasant one as the boat + danced uneasily on the water and a fresh shower gave us a very fair + drenching while we were en route. The “Doubter” got the worst + of it, and was so thoroughly soaked and <span class="pagenum">188</span><a + name="link188" id="link188"></a>frightened that he determined to stay and + keep ship, while the rest of us went on shore to spend the evening in + town. + </p> + <p> + What befell us there will be told subsequently. + </p> + <p> + Syra is not a large island, its greatest length being little over fourteen + miles and its width in the broadest part about six. Homer mentions and + describes it as the country of Eumæus, the faithful servant of Ulysses, + and the character of the island corresponds to-day with the account given + by the “blind old man of Scio’s rocky isle.” + </p> + <p> + The city which bears the name of the island is the most important + commercial point in all Greece. Its population is said to be not far from + thirty thousand; they are emphatically a commercial people, and when not + employed in legitimate trade with outsiders, they speculate with each + other. While loitering on the quay I saw a man sell a fish to another, the + latter sold it to a third and the trade went on till the fish had changed + hands four or five times. Whether the price was increased by each + transaction I am unable to say, but am inclined to think it was not likely + to be reduced. + </p> + <p> + Later in the day I saw a smaller fish—it may have been the old one + worn down by manipulation—passing about with a good deal i of + activity. If he could have taken a commission each time he, changed hands + he could have amassed a handsome fortune and set up for a “<i>big + fish</i>” before the end of the season. + </p> + <p> + As I had come from Constantinople where the streets are in a condition of + wretchedness, as regards pavement and dirt, the streets of Syra seemed to + me wonderfully clean. There are immense quarries of marble just back of + the town, and marble is one of the articles of export. Marble is cheaper + in Syra than n granite or brick. The houses are built of marble, the + streets paved with it, and the quay and the wall that bound it are made of + marble. You see marble everywhere, and after a time you begin to wish they + would throw in some other stone by way of variety. + </p> + <p> + The streets are paved with broad blocks and in many places these blocks + are so smooth that one is in danger of slipping unless he treads + carefully. The gutters are in the middle of the streets instead of at the + sides, and every few yards there is a grated hole where the water runs + into the sewers. <span class="pagenum">189</span><a name="link189" + id="link189"></a>I could not see the necessity of having these holes so + numerous until I learned by actual experience how the rain fell. It came + down suddenly, as if the clerk of the weather had called all hands and put + them to work upsetting a row of buckets right over Syra. + </p> + <p> + It didn’t rain, it poured and more than poured; the heaviest shower + I ever saw in New York was the mildest premonitory sprinkle, compared to + the rain at Syra. The sewer-holes had all they could attend to, and it was + then that you perceived the wisdom of putting the gutters in the middle of + the streets, and also the wisdom of having no cellar doors on a level with + the sidewalk. Under the present arrangement there might be, (and quite + likely such is the case,) a foot or so of water in the street, without + doing damage to anybody, except to the unlucky pedestrian. + </p> + <p> + There is a public square in Syra paved with marble and set out with rows + of trees and beggars. The latter are less stationary than the trees, and + not half as pretty; I did not see any fruit growing upon either. + </p> + <p> + Viewed from the water, Syra has the appearance of half an amphitheatre, as + the steepness of the hill causes the houses to rise in irregular terraces; + there is a depression in the hill-side, so that the general effect reminds + you of the tier of boxes in an opera house when you look at them from the + stage. + </p> + <p> + This is the new town of modern Syra. + </p> + <p> + To reach ancient Syra, you have a great deal of climbing to do, as it is a + long way up the hill-side, directly above the new town. + </p> + <p> + I was satisfied to do it by proxy, as I had a “game foot” that + complained when I exercised it vigorously. The judge and I sat in a <i>café</i>, + while the rest of our party climbed the hill and came back all red and + weary and thirsty. Their calls for beer were like the howls of a lion in + the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” declared that he had his doubts about the island + being fourteen miles long, but he was ready to swear that it was not less + than ten miles high. + </p> + <p> + This is what Gustave said about old Syra, and I must rely on him, as I + know nothing about it myself: + </p> + <p> + “You cross a deep ravine, and then you come to a stairway all <span + class="pagenum">190</span><a name="link190" id="link190"></a>of marble, + and so hot under the sunshine, that it would melt the lid off a copper + tea-kettle in the time you could hold a red hot nail in your ear without + feeling it.” + </p> + <p> + Then we went through a lot of zig-zag streets, and then more of them, and + then some more stairs and zig-zags. The stones were slippery and + dangerous, especially in coming down, and two or three times I felt myself + walking on a part of my body which is not ordinarily employed for + pedestrian purposes. + </p> + <p> + Well, we got to the top of the hill at last, and were at the church of St. + George. I was tired and foot-sore, but I think I was amply paid for the + fatigue and trouble. The view was magnificent, and included the whole + panorama of the Cyclades. (<i>Garçon, encore de la bier, s’il vous + plait</i>) The guide pointed out Tinos and Mykonos, Nicaria, and Samos, + and also Great and Little Delos. Off in the distance were Naxos, Paros, + and Anti-paros, and they tried to point out Siphnos and Milos through a + hollow in the mountain to the south of us. Down in front of us there was a + beautiful view—I wouldn’t have missed it for a great deal, and + I wouldn’t go up there again for twice as much as I would have + missed it for. (<i>Garçon, encore de la bier. Comme jai soif!</i> ) + </p> + <p> + We had landed at the quay in front of the custom house on the evening of + our arrival, and as the rain fell by little fits and starts, we didn’t + wander around very much, but made our way to the best <i>café</i> in the + place. + </p> + <p> + It overlooked the public square, and had rows of seats on the sidewalk, + which was protected by a roof impervious to water. While we sat there, a + member of our party discovered an acquaintance among the coffee-drinkers + at another table, and speedily there was a fusilade of congratulations in + the accent and language of Northern Germany. Then we were introduced all + around, and all around, too, we had fresh glasses of beer. + </p> + <p> + Our new acquaintance was a German, whose business had located him at Syra, + and the indications were that he was well satisfied with it. At all + events, he stood treat with a liberality worthy of a Californian, and made + us feel that we owned the entire island and all its contents. The quay of + Syra is an animated place, as it contains many shops and stalls, where you + can buy anything from a fish up to a marine engine. <span class="pagenum">191</span><a + name="link191" id="link191"></a>The Greek boatmen are a picturesque race, + with a costume that seems to be a compromise between the Occident and the + Orient. Their uniform is multiform, and you are puzzled to know which is + which. + </p> + <p> + Most of the boatmen and sailors wear trowsers with considerable bagginess, + and a sort of loose jacket over the shoulders. On their heads they wear + red caps like the Turkish fez, but with the top falling to one side, where + it is kept down by a long tassel. + </p> + <p> + In character they are not over-trustworthy, and they have the reputation + of being ready to turn to piracy whenever it will pay better than honest + work. In times past their reputation was worse than at present, and they + were at one period the terror of Oriental waters. Steam cruisers put an + end to their piracy, as it has to that of many enterprising mariners + elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + In our first evening in Syra we saw a couple of fights, but they possessed + no interest, as the disputants were separated before they had time to + disembowel each other. Two of the descendants of Homer and Ulysses were + drunk in the <i>café</i>; under ordinary circumstances they would have + been allowed to stay there, but the proprietor felt himself honored by our + visit, and determined to eject his friends and regular patrons. He + informed them that they had been sent for, and as the night was dark he + would allow one of the waiters to escort them. They fell into the trap, + and were quietly taken out, and the waiter returned after walking a couple + of blocks and leaving them in a low drinking shop where they wished to + slake their thirst. The whole business was managed very adroitly, and + showed how much better it is for a head bar-keeper to tell a lie than to + indulge in brute violence, in which he might break some of his furniture. + </p> + <p> + On this evening we did nothing in the sight-seeing line beyond the visit + to the <i>café</i> and the public square, the journey to Old Syra being + made on our return from Greece. We returned about nine o’clock to + the quay, and were taken on board the Stamboul, which had her steam up for + departure. Half-a-dozen other steamers were in port, and there were thirty + or more sailing ships, so that the harbor presented a reasonably lively + appearance. The terraces of lights in the town and extending to and <span + class="pagenum">192</span><a name="link192" id="link192"></a>through Old + Syra had a curious effect, and made the city resemble an illuminated + mountain. The light-houses, which mark the entrance of the harbor, were + each sending out a clear flame, the rain had ceased, and the stars were + beaming clear and distinct in the sky. + </p> + <p> + Although in the harbor, the steamer was pitching and rolling about, and we + had experienced a very lively tossing on our way from shore to ship. A + regular <i>vent du diable</i> was blowing outside, and things indicated + that we should have all we wanted when we got into it and were plowing our + way towards the Piraeus. + </p> + <p> + Half a dozen passengers were sitting at the cabin table and contemplating + a bottle of Scotch whisky, which they discussed in a polyglot of + languages. Two who were drunk imagined themselves sober, and two who were + sober, imagined themselves drunk, so that there was a very mixed condition + of things. Smoking was forbidden in the cabin, but as there was only one + lady passenger, and she had retired, and moreover belonged to our party, + and had a smoking husband, we lighted cigars and made ourselves + comfortable before going to bed. + </p> + <p> + Just as I entered my bunk I heard the anchor chain coming in, and soon we + were out on the open waters. We went along nicely for a while, till we had + passed the shelter of the Island of Syros and then we caught it. Our + course lay between the islands of Thermia and Zea, in the direction of + Cape Sunium, which forms the extremity of the Peninsula of Attica. + </p> + <p> + All night long we tossed, and the timbers of the ship creaked so that you + couldn’t hear yourself snore. Sometimes we didn’t make two + miles an hour, and I could hear the other passengers, in momentary + intervals of creaking, groaning and falling to pieces in the agonies of <i>mal-de-mer</i>. + In the morning the captain said it was one of the roughest nights he had + ever known in those waters. “Had I not felt,” said he, “the + greatest confidence in my ship, and known that she was perfectly staunch + and strong, I should have turned back after passing the Island of Syra, + and learning the strength of the wind.” + </p> + <p> + And yet the Stamboul was an old tub, with a quarter of a century on her + head, and barnacles on her bottom.. <span class="pagenum">193</span><a + name="link193" id="link193"></a>Let no one despise an old tub hereafter. I + would give more now for the one in which Dionysius—no it was + Diogenes—used to live, than for the best modern article of the same + sort from the hands of the most skillful cooper that breathes, as I could + sell it for more money. + </p> + <p> + When I went on deck in the morning Mount Olympus was in sight, and we + could see the classic shores of Greece (expression claimed as original and + secured by two patents). They were not over-cheerful in appearance, but + the leaden sky, and the cold wind that was then blowing, had doubtless + much to do with their aspect. Mount Olympus was less lofty than I expected + to find it, and greatly disappointed me, but I felt better afterwards, + when I learned that the real mountain chain which bears that name, is on + the Morean peninsula and between Thessaly and Macedonia. The mountain + which was pointed out to me was a small affair opposite to Mount Keratia; + between the two is a small village called Olympus, and inhabited by a few + Greeks, and a great many fleas. + </p> + <p> + Next we saw a long mountain with a wooded summit, and were told it was + Mount Hymettus of history. This was something like a mountain and it + stretched away in a ridge toward the north, where Pentelicus lay in the + dim distance. In a little while we saw a sharp conical hill that marked + the position of Athens, and for a short time we had the Acropolis in + sight. The shore of Greece, as we skirted it, had a rough and rather + barren appearance, and seemed to be indented with many small bays. Not a + ship, not a fishing boat even, was in sight, and our steamer appeared to + have everything to herself. Certainly our first view of Greece was not + calculated to inspire us with enthusiasm. + </p> + <p> + We rounded a promontory and entered the Piraeus, the port of Athens. It is + a nice little pocket edition of a harbor well sheltered and with good + anchorage. Ships of war might find a refuge there, but unfortunately it + could not hold many of them. The town is quite modern, and also quite + interesting; nobody stops there any longer than he is obliged to, and when + travellers are delayed there by the detention of a steamer, there is + generally a great deal of growling. + </p> + <p> + A swarm of boats came out to the ship, and as soon as the <span + class="pagenum">194</span><a name="link194" id="link194"></a>quarantine + officers had examined the health bill, and admitted us to <i>pratique</i>, + there was a rush of boatmen, dragomen, guides, hotel runners, and the + like, so that the deck was speedily covered. On an average there must have + been six and a half of these gentry to each passenger. + </p> + <p> + We passed the Custom House with the usual formalities, (a bribe of two + francs,) and turned our attention to the hotel runners, and standing on + the soil where Homer sang and Demosthenes pronounced his orations, we + drove the closest bargain which we had yet made. + </p> + <p> + Four runners from as many hotels were after us, and we put ourselves up at + auction to the lowest bidder, just as they used to sell out the paupers in + that respectable town in New England where I was born and bred, and + instructed in the mysteries of orthography and penny-tossing. They began + at fifteen francs per day for each person, including wine, candles, and + service. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Hotel d’Angleterre</i> would take us for fourteen. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Hotel des Etrangers</i> would go one better; we should be taken in + at thirteen francs. + </p> + <p> + The other two hotels dropped out of the competition and went to the rear, + and so we had it out between the pair that I have named. The runners + appeared to be personal enemies, and covered each other with epithets that + were delightful to hear, as we didn’t know what they meant. It is a + great pleasure to hear one blackguard abuse another, in a language of + which you are entirely ignorant. You run no risk of being shocked by the + coarseness of the phrases, and can quite resign yourself to a + contemplation of the gestures and emphasis with which the terse little + speeches are delivered. If I could find the man who offered a reward for + the invention of a new pleasure, I would name the above amusement and + humbly ask for the money. + </p> + <p> + We whiled away a half hour in this way very pleasantly and profitably; all + the Greek profanity that those runners vented on each other didn’t + cost us a cent; in fact we made money by it, as we lowered the prices of + the hotels at Athens to a satisfactory figure. For ten francs per day each + person, we were to have rooms only one flight up, and each room should + have a balcony. We were to be roomed, fed, wined, candled, washed, combed, + and attended, for that paltry amount, and we were to have all the candies + we wanted. Moreover they were to make no charges for lunches when we went + on excursions; this is a point on which hotels in the Orient generally lay + it on thick in the way of extras. We had brought them down to their lowest + terms, and almost felt ashamed of ourselves after we had done it. + </p> + <p> + We started for Athens with the question still undecided in the hope that + we might get a better offer before arriving there. On the way up we + developed a new dodge. + </p> + <p> + “I’ve an idea,” I said to my German friends; “suppose + we divide the party.” + </p> + <p> + “You go to the <i>Angleterre</i>, and we Americans will go to the <i>Etrangers</i>. + The hotels are close together, so that we can talk across from the + windows, and we will then play the houses against each other.” + </p> + <p> + “Very good,” replied Charley, “just the thing. Evidently + the competition between them is exceedingly bitter, and they are ready to + cut each other’s throats.” + </p> + <p> + So it was agreed that we were to divide. We did not leave the carriages + until the proprietors had ratified the agreements made by their runners, + and we did not allow the baggage taken out till we had seen and accepted + the rooms. + </p> + <p> + At the <i>Hotel des Etrangers</i> they were sorry, very sorry, but they + had only one room with a balcony, and that was on the the second floor. + </p> + <p> + “Very well, then,” I said, “we will see what our friends + can do at the other hotel,” and I turned to go to the carriage where + I had left the Judge to look after the “Doubter,” and the + other baggage. + </p> + <p> + “Stop, gentlemen,” said the proprietor; “I give you nice + back rooms on first floor.” + </p> + <p> + “That will never do,” I replied, as I placed my hand on the + carriage door. + </p> + <p> + “I just thinks,” said the proprietor, “I have single one + balcony room on first floor mit two beds.” + </p> + <p> + “Never! we want three rooms with balconies on first floor,” + and I opened the carriage door. + </p> + <p> + “You sell have two rooms mit three beds.” + </p> + <p> + “Never! that will not do,” and I entered the carriage and told + the driver to drive on. <span class="pagenum">196</span><a name="link196" + id="link196"></a>"Oh, gentlemens, I just thinks; stop—one gentleman + go away zis night and you have ze three rooms as you want. Dat is all + right.” + </p> + <p> + We entered and took possession, and the landlord was all politeness. + </p> + <p> + Our German friends had almost identically the same performance at the <i>Hotel + d’ Angleterre</i>, and with the same result. + </p> + <p> + The rivalry of these two hotels was of a bitterness rarely seen in cities; + it resembled the hostility of two country boys when both are sweet on the + same girl. No servant of one establishment was allowed to enter the other, + and when we sent messages requiring answers, the bearer was obliged to + wait outside the front door, while the porter of <i>that</i> house took + the missive up stairs and brought the response. The rival proprietors were + not on speaking terms, and the guides and runners were constantly at war. + </p> + <p> + During the whole of our stay we played upon their jealousies to the best + of our abilities. When we wanted to hire carriages for drives around the + city or in its vicinity we put the business in competition and reduced the + rates nearly one-half. We thus obtained carriages for twelve francs where + twenty was the regular price, and for fifteen francs where they ordinarily + demanded twenty-five. No matter what we wanted, we always said, “We + will see what our friends at the other house can do.” That always + brought them to terms. + </p> + <p> + It is not often that a traveller profits by the quarrels of innkeepers. + These gentry are much more likely to resemble in their discords, the + operations of the two sides of a pair of shears,—they cut not + themselves but what’s between them. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">197</span><a name="link197" id="link197"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0080" id="linkimage-0080"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0207.jpg" alt="0207 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0207.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV—ATHENS ANCIENT AND MODERN—SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE + GRECIAN CAPITAL. + </h2> + <p> + <i>First Impressions of Athens—Opinion of the “Doubter”—“Not + Worth Damming”—The Oldest Inhabitant of Athens—Celebrated + Ruins—Reminiscences of Greek Grammar—A “Big Injun” + on Greek—Drinking beer on sacred sol—A toper-graphical survey—The + Acropolis-What is it?—The Temple of Jupiter Olympus—Seven + Hundred years in Building—A young Englishman in a scrape—Sunset + from the Acropolis—Byron’s glorious lines—The Parthenon + and its surroundings—Foundations of the Ancient Citadel—Excavations + of antiquarians—Greek Art—An important discovery—The + line of beauty.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE first view of + Athens gives a stranger a favorable impression; the city stands in a + plain, at the foot of Mount Lycabettus and the Acropolis, and is between + the river Cephissus on one side and the Elissus on the other. + </p> + <p> + Considered as rivers these streams are of very little consequence and + hardly worth mentioning, but regarded as brooks they are entitled to some + respect. The Greeks call them rivers and I suppose they ought to know what + they are about. + </p> + <p> + It is with some hesitation I venture to suggest that if the Elissus and + Cephissus were united, it would take about sixteen mil, lion of these + combined streams to equal the Mississippi. The “Doubter” said + he didn’t believe that a man in search of a mill-site would consider + either of these Athenian torrents worth damming. + </p> + <p> + The oldest inhabitant of Athens is dead, and his death occurred according + to the historians, about thirty-four hundred years ago, or to be + particular about dates, in 1643 before the Chris<span class="pagenum">198</span><a + name="link198" id="link198"></a>tian Era. A gentleman named Cecrops came + there from Egypt and founded a city which he called Cecropia. + </p> + <p> + I enquired about Cecrops and learned, much to my regret, that he is no + longer alive. Had he been in Athens I would have paid him my respects. + </p> + <p> + I will not attempt to write the history of Athens, for a variety of + reasons, any one of which would be sufficient, and as two or three at + least will occur to every reader, I refrain from mentioning them. + </p> + <p> + At present the city has something less than fifty thousand inhabitants, + and possesses very little of the grandeur for which it was once famous. + </p> + <p> + The most attractive features about it are its ruins, and every visitor is + much more interested in the Acropolis and other remains of ancient Greece + than in the modern city. But I must admit that Athens has considerable + beauty and is well worth a visit, apart from the historic associations + that cluster around it. + </p> + <p> + There is a pretty little palace where the royal family resides, and it is + surrounded by gardens arranged with considerable taste, and forming very + agreeable promenades. In the square in front of the palace a band plays + twice a week on pleasant afternoons and on these occasions most of the + fashionables, and many of the unfashionables, of Athens come out for an + airing, and to see and be seen. The balconies of our rooms overlooked this + square, so that we could see the people and hear the music without the + necessity of walking. + </p> + <p> + The principal street in Athens is named Hermes, and you are reminded that + you are in Greece when you attempt to spell out the names of the highways + and by-ways. The characters are so nearly identical with the Ancient Greek + that I found my school-day studies quite convenient. When in my + adolescence I spent considerable time over Anthon’s Greek Grammar, + and over the Iliad and Odyssey of a party by the name of Homer, I used to + ask, and sometimes with a good deal of petulance: + </p> + <p> + “What is the use of wasting time over this stuff when I might be + skating or playing leap-frog?” + </p> + <p> + And my good-natured old teacher would explain that it was the most useful + employment for a young man that could be advised, and I would one day see + the advantage of it, and rejoice that I <span class="pagenum">199</span><a + name="link199" id="link199"></a>had made my head ache over Alpha and + Omega. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0081" id="linkimage-0081"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0209.jpg" alt="0209 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0209.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + I wanted to study French and German but he always told me that the modern + languages were abominations, the works of a party of brimstony memory, and + I should bring ruin and disgrace upon myself if I had anything to do with + them. So I shunned those paths of wickedness until I reached the years of—misunderstandings, + and devoted my young and happy days to Greek and Latin. <span + class="pagenum">200</span><a name="link200" id="link200"></a>For a long + time I have had little to do with those dead languages, and I couldn’t + conjugate a Greek or Latin verb to-day, if my life depended on the result. + But I see it all now, and my three or four years of Greek were of immense + advantage to me when I was in Athens. + </p> + <p> + It never took me more than a minute to spell out the name of a street; the + names were painted in Greek letters, and I remembered the shape of them. + </p> + <p> + When the Judge and I were hunting for a beer shop I was the Big Injun of + the party. The Judge did not know any more about Greek, than a cow does + about quadratic equations, and he was obliged to ask me to tell him the + names of the streets. And the way I rattled off Hermes, Eolus, Minerva, + Adrian, and the like, would have done credit to a deaf and dumb asylum. + Didn’t I rejoice that I was familiar with Greek, and able to save + the trouble of asking somebody to direct us to our destination? + </p> + <p> + The Judge appreciated the situation and said, “What a splendid thing + it is to know something! If I should ever be a husband, and a father, and + the results of my paternity should be boys, I would have them study Greek. + They may come to Athens some time and find it convenient in going about + the streets. A good map of the city would cost fifty cents, and they will + be able to save all that expenditure.” + </p> + <p> + There were tears in his eyes as he spoke, for we were in front of the + beer-shop and found it closed. + </p> + <p> + Happily there was another establishment for the sale of malt liquors, and + as it was only two blocks away, I was able to get my friend where he could + rest and be comfortable. + </p> + <p> + “Alas for the decline of Greece,” he muttered as he brought + the glass to his lips, and drew a long breath with beer in it; “Once + she had her Homer, her Demosthenes, her Lycurgus, her Epaminondas; on + yonder hill St. Paul preached to the Athenians his famous discourse on the + unknown God; here Socrates taught his philosophy; from Argos the mighty + Agamemnon and his company of warriors sailed for the siege of Troy, and + hung like a bull-dog to a coat-tail for ten long and weary years; here + Sculpture became the study of a whole people, and Art <span class="pagenum">201</span><a + name="link201" id="link201"></a>reached the highest point of development + known to ancient times; here were fought those battles between Greeks and + Persians, that will live and ring through all history, and on yonder bay + that shines so placidly in the afternoon sun, the fleet of Xerxes was + destroyed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0082" id="linkimage-0082"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8211.jpg" alt="8211 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8211.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + “And what have we to-day? + </p> + <p> + “The monuments of Ancient Greece are in ruins has dwindled so that + it would hardly form a constituency for a custom-house collector; and the + beer, just taste it; the beer is entirely unfit to drink.” + </p> + <p> + The beer was very bad, and it turned out that the bottle had been opened + the day before for a customer, who concluded to take a cigar instead. We + had another bottle with better success, but on the whole were not inclined + to praise the Athenian beverage. + </p> + <p> + The Judge made a topographical survey of the entire city and visited every + <i>brasserie</i>, but with no better success. Everywhere the drinks were + atrocious, and he ascribed the decayed condition of the country to the bad + quality of the national beverage. + </p> + <p> + “Somebody has said,” he remarked, when telling me of the + result of his inspection, “somebody has said, ‘let me make the + ballads of a nation and I care not who makes the laws.’ + </p> + <p> + “Now I will back up the correctness of that man’s theory, + <span class="pagenum">202</span><a name="link202" id="link202"></a>provided + you substitute beer for ballads. What can you expect of a nation with such + beer as this?” + </p> + <p> + The great object of attraction at Athens is the Acropolis, and as soon as + we had lunched after our arrival at the hotels, we set out for that + interesting hill. + </p> + <p> + From the square where the palace and principal hotels are situated, it is + a walk of half a mile or more to the Acropolis. + </p> + <p> + A portion of the way is through the new quarter of the city and along a <i>boulevard</i> + of recent construction; as we approach the hill we find ourselves among + some older buildings, and scattered in these are some of the tombs and + monuments that have been fortunately preserved. We face the arch of + Adrian, which is in a tolerable state of preservation, and halt at the + temple of Jupiter Olympus, the most extensive of all the temples of + ancient Athens. History tells us that it was begun five hundred and thirty + years before the Christian era, and that various emperors and kings + labored upon it. The work was not completed until nearly seven hundred + years after the first stone of the foundation was laid. It was originally + three hundred and thirty feet long, by about half as many wide, and + contained one hundred and twenty marble columns, each nearly seven feet in + diameter and sixty feet high! + </p> + <p> + Only sixteen of these columns remain; one of them lies where it was thrown + by an earthquake in 1852, and enables a visitor to see with what + excellence the Greek architects performed their work. On thirteen of the + columns the architrave remains in position and one is puzzled to know how + those immense masses of stone were hoisted into place. + </p> + <p> + The effect of these ruins is grand, partly on account of the vastness of + the columns, and partly by reason of their isolated position, in a large + open space, where there are no surroundings of other structures to detract + from the general effect. A few soldiers are stationed there to prevent + vandalism on the part, of strangers, and an enterprising Greek has + established a miserable café, among the columns. To what base uses may we + come at last! + </p> + <p> + Continuing our journey toward the Acropolis we passed the ruins of the + Theatre of Bacchus; we reserved it for another day, <span class="pagenum">203</span><a + name="link203" id="link203"></a>but I may as well dispose of it here. + According to some authorities it could contain thirty thousand spectators, + and for a long time it was the scene of the representations of the + principal works of Eschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and other famous + writers of Greek drama. The stage and auditorium were built of marble and + limestone, and decorated in the highest style of magnificence known to + that period. The width of the stage was about eighty feet, and the + diameter of the theatre on the upper rows of seats was nearly five hundred + feet. There were twenty-five tiers of seats, and there were twelve + passage-ways leading through them, so that an audience could be quickly + assembled or as quickly dispersed. Till within a few years the whole + theatre was covered with rubbish; excavations have been carried on at the + expense of the King of Prussia and other crowned heads, and latterly by + the Archaeological Society of Athens, so that the most of this ancient + temple of the drama has been exposed to view. + </p> + <p> + Statues and fragments lie around in great profusion. In the centre of the + stage there is a small hut—the domicile of an old soldier who has + charge of the ruins, and presents an open hand for whatever “backsheesh” + the visitor chooses to give him. The seats in the foremost range were + beautifully sculptured in marble, and were evidently very comfortable + places to occupy during the performance. There are fifty of these seats, + and the names engraved on them show that they belonged to the priests and + other high dignitaries of Athens. + </p> + <p> + The priest of Bacchus had the post of honor in the centre; his seat is + larger and more elaborately sculptured than the rest and is raised a few + inches higher. Behind this row there are three rows which were occupied by + the magistrates and similar dignitaries, and behind these were the seats + of the general public. + </p> + <p> + Between the auditorium and the stage there is an open space which was + occupied by the orchestra. Not a single musician was there at the time of + our visit, and not an actor or <i>danseuse</i> could be found anywhere + about the place. All! all! were gone, and in their place a single Greek, + <i>ancient</i> but <i>modern</i>, soliciting something to keep him from + starving. <span class="pagenum">204</span><a name="link204" id="link204"></a>The + theatre was on the southeastern slope of the Acropolis; the stage was at + the foot of the hill and the auditorium extended up the slope. From here a + foot path extends along the base of the hill, and rises pretty steeply in + places till it reaches a gate by the side of a modern dwelling occupied by + the custodians of the ruins. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0083" id="linkimage-0083"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9214.jpg" alt="9214 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9214.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The gate is strong and high, and the lock is sufficiently powerful to defy + the assaults of anybody who has not been educated either as a locksmith or + burglar. We passed under the eye of a custodian as we entered, and he + followed us at a respectful distance to see that we did no damage. The + instructions to these custodians are the most sensible I have known + anywhere in places of this kind. They do not keep with you and cause + annoyance by telling you what to look at, and hurrying you through faster + than you want to go. All that pleasing duty is left to the guide whom you + have brought from the hotel. The government knows that he will be a + sufficient nuisance for all practical purposes, and consequently the + custodians keep always from five to fifty yards away from you; they let + you wander where you please and do what you please, as long as you do not + injure anything. They never speak to you unless you attempt to play the + vandal; we didn’t learn by experience what they, would do in that + case, but were told that an offender is likely to be severely treated. + </p> + <p> + A young Englishman, a few years ago, in sheer mischief, broke the nose + from one of the finest statues in the collection at <span class="pagenum">205</span><a + name="link205" id="link205"></a>the Acropolis. He was arrested on the + spot, and had three months in a Greek prison, in which he made up his mind + not to do so anymore. He hasn’t gone around smashing marble noses + since his release. And, in addition to his imprisonment, he had to pay a + heavy fine, which was applied to the fund for keeping the ruins in proper + repair. + </p> + <p> + We spent the afternoon on the Acropolis, studying it in its general + features and listening to the monotonous drawl of our guide, as he + described the various temples and other structures whose remains covered + the summit of the hill. From the wall at the southern extremity we had a + fine view of Athens, and looked down on the city, lying like a map beneath + our feet. + </p> + <p> + We lingered on the Acropolis till the lengthening shadows told us the day + was coming to a close. We watched the sun go down, and as the disc of + light touched the horizon, one of our party repeated the lines which Byron + is said to have written on this historic spot: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “Slow sinks, more lovely, ere his race be run, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Along Morea’s hills, the setting sun; + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Not, as in Northern climes, obscurely bright, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + But one unclouded blaze of living light; + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + O’er the hushed deep his mellow beim he throws, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Gilds the green wave that trembles as it flows. + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + O’er old Egina’s rock and Hydra’s Ile, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + The god of Gladness sheds his parting smile: + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + O’er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Though there his altars are no more divine. + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Descending low, the shadows, lingering, kiss + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Thy glorious gulf, unconquered Salamis! + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Their azure arches through the long expanse, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + More deeply purpled, meet his mellowing glance, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + And tenderest tints along their summits driven, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Mark his gay course and own the hues of heaven, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Till, darkly shaded by the land and deep, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Behind his Delphian rock, he sinks to sleep.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + The Acropolis cannot be seen satisfactorily in a single visit; two or + three visits at least are necessary, and an entire week can be spent there + profitably. Our first day was intended only as an outline and preliminary + inspection; next morning we went to work upon the matter in earnest. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">206</span><a name="link206" id="link206"></a>We told + our guide we had no more use for him, until we had done with the + Acropolis; we could be our own guides, philosophers, and friends. + </p> + <p> + We gathered all the books in our possession—English, French, and + German—that had anything to say about the Acropolis, and we borrowed + all that were accessible at the hotels. Equipped with these and a lunch + basket well filled, we sallied forth, determined to “do” the + ruins most thoroughly. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0084" id="linkimage-0084"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0216.jpg" alt="0216 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0216.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We began at the beginning, and at each ruin or part of a ruin that we + visited, one of us read aloud while the others listened. It was slow work, + and we took turns in the reading; we were three days at the Acropolis, and + I do not believe any party of non-professional tourists ever “did” + the place more thoroughly. + </p> + <p> + At this lapse of time and distance, the Acropolis and its temples and + monuments stand clear and distinct before me, and there is no confusion in + the picture. This is more than I can say of many other places that I have + visited, where I was obliged to limit to hours and minutes what should + have consumed entire and successive days. + </p> + <p> + The Acropolis is an elevated rock, scarped on all sides, and is of an + irregular oval form, about nine hundred feet long and four <span + class="pagenum">207</span><a name="link207" id="link207"></a>hundred feet + across its greatest width. It is comparatively level on the summit, and + its height above the sea is about five hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + The first walls erected there were for purposes of fortification, and are + attributed to the Pelasgians; they are said to be more than three thousand + years old, and were evidently built with great care. Portions of them have + been revealed by the excavations of M. Beule, and are still visible; the + stones are matched only on their exterior surface and that rather roughly; + they consist of the rock of the Acropolis, and not like the stones in the + Greek walls, of material brought from a distance. + </p> + <p> + Not much of the Pelasgian wall remains, as it was cut away in several + places to make room for the Greek foundations of the Propylæ. Near this + wall there was a Greek pavement in front of the Temple of Victory. In 1853 + this pavement was removed, and revealed the rock of the Acropolis, bearing + the traces of chariot wheels which rolled there more than thirty centuries + ago. The ancient road is clearly defined, and at its edges one can see the + marks of the rude implements that were employed in smoothing it. + </p> + <p> + Walls and fragments of walls, whose erection embraced periods hundreds of + years apart, appear here and there. The noblest and grandest are those of + the Greeks, and they are so numerous that the plainest description of them + would be tedious. + </p> + <p> + The grand staircases which look toward the sea are sufficiently intact to + show their extent, though they are much injured by modern walls erected + for military purposes—some by the Venetians, some by the Turks, and + some by the Greeks, who were besieged there in 1822, during the war for + independence. A few only of the columns of the Propylæ remain; they have + excited the admiration of visitors through all ages since their erection, + twenty-three hundred years ago. They were preserved almost intact down to + the 14th century, when portions of them were removed for the construction + of a fortress. + </p> + <p> + The Turks converted the Propylæ into a powder magazine and a depot of + arms, and one day the powder blew up and smashed things generally. But + enough remains to show the ancient grandeur of this portico of the + Parthenon. <span class="pagenum">208</span><a name="link208" id="link208"></a>The + Acropolis contained several temples, and not, as many persons suppose, + only that world-renowned structure, the Parthenon. But the Parthenon + overtops them all, and that in a double sense, as it stands on the highest + part of the rocky plateau. The Parthenon was the work of Phidias, or was + constructed under his direction, and is generally considered the finest of + the Greek temples. Though greatly ruined now, it remained almost intact + until 1687, when it was occupied by the Turks, who established a powder + magazine in its centre. The Venetians were besieging them, and a shell + from a Venetian gun caused an explosion that blew down a large part of the + building and left the walls and columns in very nearly the condition in + which we find them. + </p> + <p> + Morosini, the Venetian conqueror, then entered the place; he did not + undertake any more explosions, but he tore down and carried away many of + the statues and decorations. + </p> + <p> + Subsequent conquerors and antiquarians carried away many other statues and + reliefs, so that the most of the fine sculpture of the Parthenon existing + to-day must be sought in the museums of England and France. The British + Museum contains the British lion’s share. + </p> + <p> + The act of Lord Elgin in carrying away two ship loads of the treasures of + the Parthenon has been severely criticised Our party had a lively + discussion on the subject, and the question was argued with a great deal + of vehemence. + </p> + <p> + At the time the sculptures were removed, Greece was in a very unsettled + condition. The Parthenon had been greatly injured during the wars of the + preceding two hundred years, and there was no guarantee of permanent + peace. The Turks were quite likely to come again, and as for that matter + there may be a Greco-Turkish war at anytime, that may lead to another + Moslem occupation of Athens with its attendant results. + </p> + <p> + In the British Museum, the art-treasures of the Parthenon are far safer + than they would be in Athens, and for purposes of art-study they are + accessible to thousands of persons, when they wouldn’t be seen by + dozens if in the Greek capital. For those artists who manage to visit + Athens there is quite enough remaining on the Acropolis, and in and around + the city, to occupy the <span class="pagenum">209</span><a name="link209" + id="link209"></a>whole of a busy lifetime of study, even if it run beyond + threescore and ten years; and I further conclude that the modern Greeks, + down to the time of Lord Elgin’s’ <i>razzia</i>, had forfeited + all claim to the Parthenon by their utter neglect of it. In the interest + of art, any person who would undertake the preservation of the sculptures + was to be regarded as a benefactor of the civilized world. + </p> + <p> + I have said my say, and feel better. + </p> + <p> + Lord Elgin has been called all manner of hard names by a great many + writers from Byron downwards, but I think he did right. If his relatives + and friends wish to send me any testimonial for coming to his defence, + they can remit it, post and duty paid, and I will acknowledge by return + mail. + </p> + <p> + I wish to say on behalf of the present government in Greece, that it + manifests a great interest in preserving the works of art that remain. And + it is constantly making researches to the extent of its financial ability, + and every year new treasures are discovered, and fresh light is thrown + upon the art development of Ancient Greece. + </p> + <p> + Some of the excavations have been made at the personal expense of the + young King, and altogether no one can complain that art matters are + neglected in Athens at the present time. + </p> + <p> + An excellent museum has been formed at Athens, and it is under efficient + and careful management. Students are flocking to the city from all parts + of Europe, and the numbers bid fair to increase from year to year. + </p> + <p> + Enough has been printed on Greek art to satisfy the most exacting; there + is little left to say. The fact that I have never studied the subject does + not at all disqualify me from writing about it, if I were to follow the + standard set up by some who have gone before me. Long essays have appeared + from the pens of men who could hardly tell the difference between a + pediment, and a cornice, or explain why a segment is not an angle or an + angle a segment. It may be that I am over-scrupulous, but I have always + been reluctant to write on any topic about which I was not properly + informed. + </p> + <p> + In our visit to the Parthenon and in our examination of books relating to + it we found something which greatly interested us; <span class="pagenum">210</span><a + name="link210" id="link210"></a>as it was in a French book, and as none of + us had ever seen it in an English one I have thought well to say something + about it. + </p> + <p> + For thousands of years the Greek temples have been admired for the beauty + and harmony of their lines, and in modern times several attempts have been + made to copy them. But the modern architects have invariably found that + their productions had an appearance of rigidity and lacked the softness + and beauty of the antique. What could be the reason? + </p> + <p> + The secret was not discovered until less than forty years ago. + </p> + <p> + It had been lost to the world through all the centuries that have elapsed + since the temples of Greece began to crumble and decay. + </p> + <p> + In 1837 M. Pennethorne, on studying the Parthenon, made the first + observation that led to the revelation of the secret; and it was afterward + verified by several architects, among whom were Hofer, Schaubert, Paccard, + and Penrose. The last-named gentleman has treated the subject in an + excellent work (<i>Principes de l’architecture Athénienne</i>) + published in 1851, and it has also been examined by M. Burnouf in an + article in the <i>Revue des Deux Mondes</i>. The theories of the + investigators were at first received \ with derision, but repeated + measurement not only of the Parthenon, but of other Greek temples, have + settled the matter beyond a doubt. + </p> + <p> + It has been found that the Greek architects gave curves and inclinations + to the principal lines which modern architects have been accustomed to + make perfectly straight measurements of the Parthenon and other temples + show that these curves were both horizontal and perpendicular, and in + every investigation they have been found mathematically exact. + </p> + <p> + “To the eye as to science,” says M. Burnouf, “the + stability of the body increases with the extent of the base. The interior + walls of the <i>cella</i> (or <i>sanctum</i>) of the Parthenon were + slightly inclined towards each other; the columns of the peristyle were + likewise inclined inward, and the same was the case with the columns at + the angles. The whole structure thus received the form of a truncated + pyramid which gave an appearance of great solidity.” + </p> + <p> + The inclinations thus mentioned were vertical. A slight curve was given + horizontally to the floor or platform on which the tem<span class="pagenum">211</span><a + name="link211" id="link211"></a>ple stands, and it is found to extend + outward in all directions from the point which indicates the centre. + </p> + <p> + All parts of the temple are made to correspond to this curve which is very + slight, only a few half inches in a distance of a hundred feet—but + at the same time sufficient to give a most harmonious and pleasing effect. + </p> + <p> + The earliest Greek temples do not have these curves, but they are found in + all the later ones, so that the time of their introduction can be + determined with reasonable accuracy. + </p> + <p> + It is supposed that the Greek artists arrived at the use of these curves + by a careful study of nature. The straight line is a geometric abstraction + which is never found in nature. The horizon is curved in consequence of + the spherical form of the earth; the sea, a mountain range, or a plain, + assumes a curve when we look at it from a distance, and a long line of + coast will appear arched like a bow when we approach it. + </p> + <p> + Undoubtedly the Greeks gave these horizontal curves to the bases and + super-structures of their temples in an effort to imitate nature. Hogarth + in the last century laid down the law that the curve was the line of + beauty; he was not aware that the principle had been discovered ages and + ages ago by the Greeks. + </p> + <p> + For fear that I have not made my explanation clear enough to everyone let + me illustrate: + </p> + <p> + We all know the earth is round—I demonstrated that to my own + satisfaction by travelling steadily west until I reached home—and so + many persons have done likewise since the days of Sir Francis Drake, the + first circumnavigator, that the rotundity of the earth is everywhere + accepted and understood Now if the whole earth is round, it follows + naturally that any part of it is curved in proportion to its extent. + </p> + <p> + Is there a pond in your neighborhood a mile in diameter? + </p> + <p> + “Yes.” + </p> + <p> + Next winter when it is frozen over, go to that pond and stretch a twine + from side to side. If you <i>could</i> stretch that line without any + “sag” you would find that it would touch the ice in the centre + and be four inches above it at each end. + </p> + <p> + Or go there some night in the summer and place a bright light at the water’s + edge on one side of the pond. Then go to the <span class="pagenum">212</span><a + name="link212" id="link212"></a>other side, get into the water till your + eye is just above the surface and endeavor to see the light. You don’t + see it—because the rotundity of the earth prevents. + </p> + <p> + Now if you are building a church or a large hall, apply this principle of + the curvature of the earth. Instead of making your floor perfectly flat + make it swell up a little in the centre and sweep from this centre + outward, toward the corners and sides. Then make your roof, pillars, and + everything else in the place, and also the broad steps on the outside, + curve in the same way and you will be imitating the Greek artists of the + time of Pericles and Phidias. They may be said to have had level heads, + those Greeks, when they abandoned the level and adopted the curve. + </p> + <p> + Enough of this. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0085" id="linkimage-0085"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5222.jpg" alt="5222 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5222.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">213</span><a name="link213" id="link213"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0086" id="linkimage-0086"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0223.jpg" alt="0223 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/0223.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV—ROUND ABOUT ATHENS.—THE COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Mars’ Hill, the place where St. Paul Preached on the Unknown God—The + Prison of Socrates—The Country of the Brigands—Escorted by + Greek Soldiers—Captures by the Brigands—How they treat + Captives—Extorting Ransoms—Buying Coins and Relics—Swindling + Travellers—Among the Ruins—Strange Contrasts—“Chaffing” + the Guide—Position of the Persian and Grecian Hosts—Xerxes’ + Throne—“The King Sate on the Rocky Brow”—Making + the Ascent by Proxy—“I no go ze Mountain”—The + Battle of Marathon—A Survivor of the Battle—How the Victory + was Won.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E visited all the + places of historic interest in Athens, including the hill where St Paul is + said to have preached his sermon on the unknown God. + </p> + <p> + The place is admirably adapted for the delivery of an oration, and it is + no wonder that it was a favorite one with the Athenians on the occasion of + any public demonstration. Indications of its ancient uses are still + visible. There is a stairway of sixteen steps hewn in the solid rock + leading to a platform where there are three rectangular seats placed in a + half circle, and looking toward the South. + </p> + <p> + On each side to the East and West, there is an elevated block of stone; + these blocks are supposed to be the seats of accuser and accused, + according to the description of Pausanias and others. The courts of + justice were held here, with powers that varied from time to time, + according to the decrees of the ruler. + </p> + <p> + It was here that Demosthenes was condemned to death, and not far away is + the place where Socrates is said to have died. + </p> + <p> + To reach the prison of Socrates we passed through a ploughed field to the + perpendicular side of a hill, where a cavity was hewn in the solid rock. + There was nothing of interest in the prison; <span class="pagenum">214</span><a + name="link214" id="link214"></a>nothing but four stone walls and a low + roof, with a floor that would have been more presentable had it been swept + and washed. The historians say that the authenticity of the prison is + extremely doubtful and rests on very slight foundation. + </p> + <p> + We made an excursion to Eleusis, a pleasant ride of little more than two + hours, when we informed our hotel-keeper of our intentions, Boniface + shrugged his shoulders, smiled, shook his head, and uttered the magic word + “brigands.” + </p> + <p> + “What do you mean?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “You must get an escort,” he replied; “an escort of + soldiers to protect you, and you must send your application to the chief + of police as soon as possible.” + </p> + <p> + “But suppose we don’t want an escort, and are willing to take + the risk ourselves?” + </p> + <p> + “That would not be permitted,” was his prompt response. + </p> + <p> + “The government was censured so much in the Takos affair that it + will not allow anybody to go without an escort. They are determined to be + on the safe side, and if you venture out without an escort, you will be + liable to imprisonment for violating the regulations.” + </p> + <p> + He went on to explain that the escort would cost us nothing; that it would + consist of regular soldiers, mounted and armed with carbines and pistols, + and that we would be kept all the time, under the strictest surveillance. + We would not have a large guard—from six to ten soldiers, commanded + by a sergeant, and quite possibly we could get a <i>sous-officier</i> who + could speak French. The latter would not be absolutely necessary, as we + would be obliged to employ a guide or dragoman, who would speak, or would + claim to speak, all the modern languages, in addition to that of the + country. + </p> + <p> + We sent our application to the police headquarters, stating where we + wished to go, and how long we expected to be absent, and were informed + that the escort would meet us at a little village a couple of miles + outside of Athens. + </p> + <p> + In order not to attract too much attention and cause needless comment, + they always arrange that the escort shall be taken up in this way. + Consequently, our expectation that we should ride through the streets in + grand style was ruthlessly disappointed. <span class="pagenum">215</span><a + name="link215" id="link215"></a>We left our hotel in a very modest way, + and attracted neither attention nor admiration as we rode along we found + our escort waiting for us and solacing themselves with Greek wine at a + wretched <i>brasserie</i> in the edge of the village. The guide suggested + that we should try the wine, and take a few bottles of it along for the + general benefit of the party. We acceded to his proposal, and it very + naturally happened that, in paying the bill, the score made by the escort + was included. We did not demur, as we wanted to be on good terms with our + guards, and as the wine of the country was very cheap and very bad, we + gave orders that the escort should be kept filled up to the chin, and a + little higher if possible. + </p> + <p> + During the whole time they were with us, the guard kept a careful watch + over their charges; they divided up into advance, rear, and center, the + advance keeping about two hundred yards ahead of the main body, and the + rear about half of that distance behind us. There were seven soldiers and + a sergeant, so that when the advance and rear of two men each were in + their proper places, there were only four to form the centre. No elaborate + military evolutions were attempted, if I except a little “cavorting” + on the part of the sergeant’s horse, which resulted twice in + unseating that hero, and throwing him headlong into the sand to the + detriment of his uniform and temper. + </p> + <p> + We had expected to find a picturesque looking guard in Greek dress, and + flourishing long lances, such as we see in pictures of the Phalanx and + other celebrated bodies of troops. We found them a very common lot of + soldiers in a uniform that looked very Frenchy, and I learned afterward + that the outfit of the Greek army was furnished by French contractors, and + made chiefly in Paris. + </p> + <p> + The French uniform seems to have invaded the Orient very generally, and + half the armies of the countries bordering the Eastern part of the + Mediterranean are now uniformed, with some modifications, after the model + of <i>la grande nation</i>. + </p> + <p> + Shall I describe a sanguinary battle, in which prodigies of valor were + displayed by our party, and a hundred brigands were compelled to bite the + dust? + </p> + <p> + A great deal of dust was bitten, but we couldn’t help it; the dry + earth was stirred up by our horses’ hoofs, and for much of <span + class="pagenum">216</span><a name="link216" id="link216"></a>the time we + rode in dense clouds that occasionally threatened to smother us. Our lungs + were filled, and we ground in our teeth more of the classic soil of the + land of Homer and Demosthenes than we found to our liking. + </p> + <p> + It may be a humiliation to say so, but I confess that the most of us were + not very poetical on that occasion, and voted Greece a bore. + </p> + <p> + Candor compels me to say that we had no encounter with the brigands, but + returned to Athens with no greater sufferings than the fatigue and general + mussiness consequent upon most journeys of that length. Two or three times + we saw some suspicious-looking vagabonds, and at sight of them our + sergeant shook his head ominously, but they evinced no disposition to + disturb us. We could have made a very fair fight, if attacked, as our + guards were well armed, and there was a fair supply of revolvers in our + own hands. We had inserted fresh charges before leaving the hotel, and + were determined not to surrender without making some resistance at any + rate. Capture at the hands of Greek brigands is no joke, and would have + disarranged our plans very seriously. + </p> + <p> + The main object of brigandage is a financial one; the robbers are in want + of money (many of us are in the same fix), and the best way for them to + turn an honest penny is to steal it. When they capture travellers, they + help themselves to watches, money, and jewels, and anything else that may + be of value. But the end is not yet; they take the captives into the + mountains, and hold them for something more, and they are careful to + squeeze out as much as possible. If the victim is a wealthy nobleman or + some other purse-proud aristocrat, they think it will be worth about + £10,000 to release him, but if he is some ordinary mortal with no + influential friends in Athens, a hundred or two hundred pounds will be + sufficient. The foreign residents and travellers; who happen to be in a + Greek or Italian city when ransom is demanded for some unhappy wretch, are + frequently compelled to raise money to meet the demand. + </p> + <p> + There is a great deal of complaint at this, and much of it is well + founded. + </p> + <p> + “Why should I,” said a gentleman to me in Naples, “be + compelled to pay something every little while to get one of my coun<span + class="pagenum">217</span><a name="link217" id="link217"></a>trymen out of + the hands of the brigands? I wouldn’t venture where the scoundrels + could catch me, and I wouldn’t allow any of my friends to do so if I + could prevent it. But along comes some reckless fellow I never saw, goes + into danger, and is captured. Then I am appealed to on the ground of + humanity and all that sort of thing, and asked to help release him. It is + his own fault if he is captured. If he had staid away, as I do, he would + have been safe, and not compelled to appeal to strangers. If a man meets + with an accident, I am willing to help him, but I think it hard to be + asked to contribute for a man who has deliberately and with eyes open + walked into trouble.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0087" id="linkimage-0087"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0227.jpg" alt="0227 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0227.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The brigands generally treat their prisoners well and civilly. Sometimes + they parole them not to attempt to escape, and allow them to do what they + please; and at others they put them in charge of watchful guards, who have + orders to shoot them if they try to get away. If pursued, and too much + encumbered by their prisoners, they kill them, on the principle that dead + men tell no tales, and it is in cases of pursuit that most of the persons + in the hands of the brigands have lost their lives. In several instances + prisoners have been kept three or four months by the brigands, and while + negotiations were pending they have been allowed to see their friends, and + even to visit neighboring cities to make personal appeals for raising the + ransom demanded; and these instances have only been where parties of two + or more were cap<span class="pagenum">218</span><a name="link218" + id="link218"></a>tured. Only one was allowed to go away at a time, the + rest being held as hostages. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes when the ransom is not forthcoming in a reasonable time, the + brigands cut off the ear of a victim and send it to his friends with the + intimation that the other ear will come soon, unless matters are hurried + up. This generally has the desired effect. + </p> + <p> + Brigandage has been largely reduced in Italy and Greece, but it still + exists in some localities. The Governments of those countries have made + earnest efforts to render rural travelling safe, but they have base + populations to deal with, and it will doubtless be a long time before the + business will be entirely stopped. + </p> + <p> + Our route to Eleusis, was over the ancient sacred way traversed by the + Theorie or procession which used to go from Athens to Eleusis for the + celebration of the mysteries. Soon after leaving Athens we enter a forest + of olive trees; it was once very extensive but has suffered greatly in the + recent wars of which the country around Athens has been in great part the + theatre. The road is very good, and as it has been traversed for thousands + of years and is under the supervision of goverment, there is no reason why + it should be otherwise. + </p> + <p> + The chapel of St. George and the monastery of Daphni are passed on the + route, but there is nothing particularly interesting about them, if we + except some very old and badly preserved mosaics. All the time of the + Crusades the Daphni was a monastery of Benedictines, and had some + celebrity. It was one of the earliest Christian centres in this part of + Greece. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally the modern road leaves the ancient one, but the traces of the + latter are distinctly visible where it was hewn out of the rock. During + the Turkish occupation there was another road established by the Moslems, + but it was so badly made that it was not considered worth following by the + modern engineers. + </p> + <p> + Near the shores of the Bay of Eleusis the road leads past a couple of salt + lakes which are mentioned in ancient histories. They are fed by springs + and drained by small brooks flowing into the bay; modern and prosaic mills + are on these brooks. Our guide explained that these lakes were anciently + dedicated, <span class="pagenum">219</span><a name="link219" id="link219"></a>one + to Ceres, and the other to Proserpine; we endeavored to ascertain if the + mills appertained to those parties, and told him to go and ask if Mr. + Ceres was at home. Rather than explain to us who and what Ceres was, he + stopped the carriage and pretended to ascertain from a native the + information we desired. + </p> + <p> + After a short conversation in the language of the country, he gravely + informed us that Ceres had gone to Athens, and would not return till next + week. + </p> + <p> + How that guide pitied our ignorance. + </p> + <p> + Eleusis is to-day a miserable village, whose inhabitants look as if they + ought to be grateful to anybody who would drown them in the adjoining bay. + They crowded around us to beg for money and to sell relics of the place; I + bought several coins of the time of Hadrian, paying about a cent apiece + for the lot. Somewhat to my surprise they were pronounced genuine by a + coin-sharp to whom I showed them in Athens. I remarked by the way that you + can buy any quantity of antique coins in Athens and no end of statuettes + and other articles of terra-cotta. To obtain the genuine you must exercise + considerable caution and be careful about trading with doubtful + personages. + </p> + <p> + There are several shops that have a good reputation and are said to take + great pains to have none but genuine coins. Sometimes they have large + stocks on hand and some of these coins will be very rare; persons + interested in making collections for public and private museums arrive + there from time to time and almost exhaust the supplies of the dealers. + Consequently you can never tell whether you are likely to find a large, + medium, or small stock of antique coins on hand in the shops at Athens. + </p> + <p> + Eleusis was anciently one of the most celebrated cities of Greece, and its + foundation dates in the ages of mythology. It was famous for the temple of + Ceres and Proserpine, and for the mysteries which were celebrated there in + honor of these two goddesses and considered the most sacred of all Greece + during the time that paganism flourished. + </p> + <p> + It was one of the original twelve states of Attica, and was several times + at war with Athens. In the last of these wars the Athenians were + victorious and Eleusis became a province of Athens with the condition that + its religion was to be respected <span class="pagenum">220</span><a + name="link220" id="link220"></a>and the worship of Ceres and Proserpine + continued as before. Once a year the grand procession went to Athens by + the sacred way to celebrate the Eleusinian mysteries, which were + maintained for many years. + </p> + <p> + The Persians destroyed the temple and the city but they were afterwards + reconstructed only to be destroyed again. + </p> + <p> + We wandered among the ruins where the immense and carefully hewn blocks of + marble contrasted strangely with the rude huts of the present dwellers on + the spot. The destruction was so complete that one sees little more than + the outline of one of the temples enclosing a space covered with masses of + hewn stone tumbled together in the most complete confusion. + </p> + <p> + The ruins have been only partially excavated, and there was no work in + progress at the time of my visit. Judging by the remains that were visible + the temples must have been among the finest of ancient Greece. + </p> + <p> + From the hill that formed the Acropolis of Eleusis, we looked over the + bay, and saw the locality where was fought the famous battle of Salamis, + between the Greeks and Persians. The site of the silver throne of Xerxes + was pointed out, but we were somewhat dubious about it as we could not see + the throne though looking repeatedly and intently. The guide could not + tell where it could be found and seemed rather disgusted when we requested + him to ask the natives if they had seen anything of it lying around loose. + </p> + <p> + He persisted that the battle was fought more than two thousand years ago; + we listened to his explanation and shook our heads as if we were not + convinced. + </p> + <p> + I told him that we had had battles in our own country not near so long ago + and that the people who were killed there were all dead. + </p> + <p> + He could not understand what that had to do with the matter and neither + could I. + </p> + <p> + The positions of the armies and fleets during the battle are described + with sufficient precision by the historians, though there has been much + discussion concerning the movements which gave the victory to the Greeks, + and destroyed the Persian fleet. The locality of the throne of Xerxes is + also in dispute, one authority, <span class="pagenum">221</span><a + name="link221" id="link221"></a>placing it in the hollow between two low + hills, while another has it on the summit of a hill overlooking the bay. + The latter theory is more likely to be the correct one. Byron says of the + affair: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “The King sate on the rocky brow, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Which looks o’er sea-born Salamis, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + And ships, by thousands lay below + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + And men in nations, all were his. + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + He counted them at break of day, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + And when the sun set, where were they?” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + The day after this excursion we made a journey to Mount Pentelicus, whence + came the most of the marble used in the erection of the Parthenon, and + other temples of Athens. + </p> + <p> + Part of the way the road is excellent and on another part it is not so + good. There is a Greek convent at the foot of the mountain and when we + reached it we were told that the carriages could go no further. + </p> + <p> + Then we had an animated discussion with the guide. None of us wished to + undertake the ascent, which requires about two hours on foot, and so we + decided to let the guide do it for us, and when we stated our plan his + eyes opened so wide that they appeared really to drop out. + </p> + <p> + “I not goes up mitout you gentlemens,” he said as soon as he + had sufficiently recovered himself to be able to speak. + </p> + <p> + “You won’t, eh; well, what have we engaged you for.” + </p> + <p> + “For five francs ze day, five francs <i>par jour</i>.” + </p> + <p> + “Very well, then, we are to pay you five francs a day to be our + guide and you are to guide us where we want to go.” + </p> + <p> + “Yees! yees, zat is so.” + </p> + <p> + “If we wanted to go up that mountain you would go with us.” + </p> + <p> + “Certainly, genteelmens, certainly zat is to guide you up ze + mountain.” + </p> + <p> + “Well, now let’s have no more nonsense about it. Pentelicus + would be nowhere by the side of Pike’s Peak or Mount Shasta. And you + say, gentlemen come here and climb this potato-hill. We don’t intend + to climb it ourselves, and we came here to do it by proxy. We have hired + you for that purpose, so now go ahead.” <span class="pagenum">222</span><a + name="link222" id="link222"></a>"But I have been up ze mountain many + times. Why I go now all alone without ze genteelmens.” + </p> + <p> + “That is our affair. We pay you five francs a day for that kind of + work, you are to do anything for us that we find disagreeable.” + </p> + <p> + The guide was puzzled, and after a thorough examination of our faces to + ascertain if we were really lunatics, he started off. + </p> + <p> + He went about twenty yards and then returned, declaring that he would not + ascend the mountain unless we furnished him with a saddle horse. + </p> + <p> + “Once for all,” said the Judge, “will you go or not? If + you don’t we shall be obliged to murder you, and then report your + misconduct to the police.” + </p> + <p> + “Veree well,” sulkily replied the descendant of Sophocles, + “I no go ze mountain, and I no be guide for you again. Tomorrow you + have one other guide.” + </p> + <p> + We took him at his word and that night paid him off and discharged him. He + had been a nuisance from the first, bothering us with all sorts of + importunities, and we were glad to be rid of him in such a way that he + could have no real or fancied claim upon us. During the rest of our stay + in Athens he did not condescend to speak to us; he had formerly been all + obsequiousness, but now he considered us quite unfit to associate with + him. I am afraid our reputations suffered somewhat in his hands. He + described us to some gentlemen who were in Athens the week after we left, + as the greatest fools he had ever seen. + </p> + <p> + Mount Pentelicus is about thirty-six hundred feet above the level of the + sea, and the view from its summit is said to be quite extensive. + </p> + <p> + Looking toward the southwest one sees the plain of Attica with its smaller + mountains, and with Athens and the Acropolis occupying a prominent place + on the plain. + </p> + <p> + Beyond them are the Piraeus, Salamis, and Egina, and further away the + coast and mountains of the Morea, form a background to the picture. Toward + the southeast are Mount Hymettus, all the promontory of Attica to Cape + Sunium and beyond this cape, the jagged summits of the Cyclades are + visible. On the northeast the hills fall away in undulations till they + sink into the plain <span class="pagenum">223</span><a name="link223" + id="link223"></a>of Marathon, where was fought the battle that resulted in + the defeat and partial destruction of the Persian army. The numerous bays + of this part of the coast are distinctly visible, and the combinations of + sea, mountain, and plain make a picture of unusual beauty. + </p> + <p> + In a clear day nearly all the great islands of the Greek Archipelago can + be made out, and sometimes the coast of Asia is visible away to the east. + Altogether the view from Mount Pentelicus is one of the finest in Greece, + as it includes nearly the whole of Athens, and awakens many historical + associations. + </p> + <p> + The battle of Marathon was fought in the year 450 B. C., between the + Persians and Greeks. The former had landed forty thousand men, but owing + to bad generalship, only half that number were engaged. + </p> + <p> + The Persian army was drawn up in the Plain of Marathon, with its center + directly in front of the Greek position. + </p> + <p> + Military critics who have studied the history of the battle on the + memorable ground, say that the Persians were lamentably deficient in + strategy, as their line was too much extended, and its right was pushed + out between a swamp and the mountain chain. This arrangement secured them + against a flank movement on the right, but it left no line of retreat for + the right wing in case the centre was pierced. + </p> + <p> + The Greeks were about eighteen thousand strong, according to the best + authorities. They debouched from the mountains in two columns, one + attacking the Persian right, and the other its left, and in both movements + they were successful. Then they attacked the Persian centre, which they + defeated and put to flight; the vanquished were pursued into the sea and + into the swamps, and it is said that more of them perished in this way + than by the arms of the conquerors. + </p> + <p> + Did you ever see a survivor of the battle of Marathon? I have, and instead + of being twenty-four hundred years old, as you might expect, he was not + fifty. + </p> + <p> + We had in our late civil war a cavalry general who was reputed to be a + good soldier, and, at the same time, a tremendous “blower.” He + could tell wonderful stories of his and others’ prowess; and the + deeds of daring that he narrated were of the<span class="pagenum">224</span><a + name="link224" id="link224"></a>most remarkable character. Mention any + battle in his hearing, especially when he had partaken of the beverage + that cheers while it inebriates, and he would be sure to tell you that he + had led the cavalry on the right, the left, or the centre, just as it + might occur to his mind. + </p> + <p> + One day, somebody mentioned a battle in Virginia, and our general + immediately described how he broke the centre that day, with four + regiments of cavalry. + </p> + <p> + Then another person spoke of a battle that occurred the same day in + Arkansas or Louisiana, and the general told us how he led three regiments + and a battalion of cavalry, against the right wing and broke it without + trouble, capturing two batteries and half a dozen wagon loads of + ammunition. + </p> + <p> + The attempt was now made to floor him, but it was unsuccessful. + </p> + <p> + “That was a splendid move of General Miltiades at Marathon,” + said one of the party, with a most solemn face; “he attacked in two + columns an army larger than his own.” + </p> + <p> + “Ah, yes,” our brave general responded, “that was one of + the toughest places I was ever in. I led the cavalry against the left, two + full brigades with two batteries and howitzers. They cut us up with grape + and canister, but we broke them and took all their guns. The general + complimented me personally in presence of his whole staff. I had three + horses shot under me and two bullet holes in my coat.” + </p> + <p> + Up to that moment I had never hoped to see a survivor of Marathon, but you + cannot always tell what will happen. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">225</span><a name="link225" id="link225"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0088" id="linkimage-0088"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0235.jpg" alt="0235 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0235.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI—THE GLORY OF ATHENS.—ITS SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, + AND RELICS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Opera at Athens—Handsome Greeks?—The King and Queen—A + Lovely Trio—Losing a Heart—Byron’s “Maid of Athens”—How + She Looked—Her House and History—The Acropolis by Moonlight—Waking + the Guard—A Sham Permit—“Backsheesh”—The + Parthenon by Night—Greek Gypsies—Among the Curiosity Shops—Dr. + Schliemann and his Trojan Discoveries—The Gold and Silver Vases of + King Priam—Where They Were Found—Relics of the Sack of Troy—Curious + Workmanship—Some Account of the Excavations—We Leave Athens—A + Queer Steamer—“Pay or Go to Prison”—End of Our + Steamship Adventure.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE Opera was in + fashion at Athens, at the time of our visit, and all went there on the + second evening of our stay in the city. The theatre is rather small and + the company not first-class, but on the whole the house and the + performance were quite as good as one could expect for a city of the + population of the Greek capital. Both chorus and orchestra were small, and + not very well trained, and the scenery was evidently made to do duty in a + great many ways. + </p> + <p> + In my eyes the chief attractions were the people in the audience, and I + did not pay very close attention to the performance. Here and there you + could see the national costume, but the great majority of those present + were attired <i>a la Paris</i>, or rather in the French costumes of + fashions a year or two old. The national costume is worn only by the <i>pallicares</i>, + who claim to be the descendants of the original Greeks, and they show a + great deal of pride of descent. Here is a description of the dress of a <i>pallicare</i> + of Athens. + </p> + <p> + A muslin shirt with a broad collar, but without a cravat; <span + class="pagenum">226</span><a name="link226" id="link226"></a>stockings of + goodly length and gaiters buttoned up to the knee, not unlike the shooting + gaiters of England and America. Then comes a full skirt, generally of some + white material, gathered in plaits at the waist, and reaching to the knee + or just below it; then a small vest without sleeves, and another richly + embroidered and with open sleeves. + </p> + <p> + There are garters of colored silk, and a belt of the same material, but + the latter is generally concealed by a broad belt of leather, which + sustains a tobacco pouch, a handkerchief, a purse, and, according to the + old custom, a pair of pistols, though the latter are usually left at home. + On the head is worn a red cap, something after the Turkish pattern, but + larger at the top, and having a blue tassel. The women of the same class + wear a long skirt of silk, or some cheaper material, according to their + financial ability, with a velvet jacket open in front; and for a headdress + they wear a red cap like that of the men, but with a larger top. It bends + over to the ear, and appears as if it were ready to fall off. Sometimes + they omit the cap, and wear a large braid of hair twisted around the head. + It is not the natural growth, but of the kind known in America as “store + hair;” it belongs to the wearer either by inheritance or purchase. + </p> + <p> + I looked among the audience for pretty faces, but saw only a few. One box + contained three women who would be called handsome in any part of the + world, but they turned out to be Albanians, and not of the true Greek + race. The other pretty ones were few and far between, and on the whole I + was fully prepared to endorse the assertion of Edmond About, that the + Greek men are much handsomer than the women. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon promenades, when the band played in the public square, I + had no better luck in my search for beauty than in the opera house. The + prettiest women are oftener seen in the rural districts and in the islands + than at Athens, and the peninsula of the Morea is said to contain the best + specimens of feminine beauty. + </p> + <p> + The king and queen were in their box; they are regular attendants upon the + opera, and the king is said to pay a portion of the subsidy out of his + private purse. + </p> + <p> + They are a young and not ill-looking couple, and were dressed in ordinary + evening costume, as if out for a dinner or a party. <span class="pagenum">227</span><a + name="link227" id="link227"></a>He is tall and thin, and she has a + tendency to stoutness, and both are blondes, the king being Danish (son of + the King of Denmark), and the queen being Russian (daughter of the Grand + Duke Constantine, and niece of the Emperor Alexander II). They present a + marked contrast in physiognomy to the darkskinned and black-haired Greeks, + and the most unobservant stranger would never take them for natives of the + country. + </p> + <p> + The succession to the throne appears to be well secured, as the royal pair + have three children, and are yet very far from old age. + </p> + <p> + And while on this subject, let me say that in Egypt, a few months later, I + saw three sisters that were the perfection of beauty, the admiration of + the foreign men in Cairo, and the envy of all foreign women. They were + daughters of a Greek merchant living at Alexandria, and were the belles of + the foreign population of that city. I could have lost my heart to any one + of the trio, but no favorable opportunity offered, and consequently I left + the Orient heart whole. + </p> + <p> + Now, for a little information about the population and government. Those + who do not wish it, may go on till they find something more interesting. + The population of the kingdom, including the Ionian and other islands, is + less than a million and a half, according to the last census. The + government is a constitutional and hereditary monarchy, and the + constitution guarantees to the citizens equality before the law, personal + and religious liberty, freedom of the press, public instruction, and the + abolition of confiscation and the penalty of death for political + offenders. For purposes of government, the country is divided into + thirteen departments, fifty-nine districts, and three hundred and + fifty-two communes. The <i>prefets</i> of the departments, and <i>sous-prefets</i> + of districts, are nominated by the king, subject to approval by the + chamber of deputies. The communal chiefs and councils are elected by the + people over whom they are to preside. + </p> + <p> + The system of justice is based on the <i>Code Napoleon</i>, and the code + of commerce is likewise on the French plan. + </p> + <p> + Criminal matters are subject to trial by jury, and the same is the case + with certain civil affairs. In general, the courts appear to be well + organized, but the judges are so badly paid that some <span class="pagenum">228</span><a + name="link228" id="link228"></a>of them cannot support their families and + be respectable without taking an occasional bribe. + </p> + <p> + The religion of Greece is of the kind known as the Greek Church, and + almost identical with that of Russia. In Syra and other islands of the + Archipelago, there are many Catholics. + </p> + <p> + There is only one completed railway in all Greece, and it has the enormous + length of four miles. + </p> + <p> + Carriage roads are not numerous, and most of them are bad; consequently it + is hardly necessary to say that the interior of the country is not much + developed. + </p> + <p> + Agriculture is in a primitive stage, and the soil, which does not lack + fertility, has very little opportunity to show what it can do. Commerce is + more prosperous than agriculture, and most of the wealth of Greece is + engaged in it. Most of the commerce of the Levant is in the hands of + Greeks, and there are many merchants of that nationality established in + other countries. Most of them have an affectionate remembrance for their + native land, and frequently make heavy donations in its behalf. + </p> + <p> + Of course the country must have an army and navy. The former includes + about fifteen thousand soldiers of all arms and an enormous number of + officers; there are seventy generals in the army, and a proportionate + number of other grades. + </p> + <p> + The navy has an equally large staff of officers; it has about thirty-five + ships, mounting one hundred and ninety guns. + </p> + <p> + The finances are in that deplorable condition described by Mr. Micawber, + when he alluded to the practice of allowing expenditures to exceed the + income. The annual revenue of Greece is about a million of francs less + than the expenses. A minister of finance of ability would be a great + blessing to the country. + </p> + <p> + I could give a few more solid chunks of wisdom, but I forbear out of pity + for the reader. + </p> + <p> + My head is an ant-hill of figures, but I shall proceed to seal up the + outlets, and keep the units and tens in their place. + </p> + <p> + I can tell you the number of square miles in Greece, the height of her + mountains, and depth of her rivers, the age of the youngest child in the + country, and what the king had for dinner one day; I could even give the + number of hairs on the back of a sea turtle, and the price of a bottle of + wine, for which you pay ten francs, but I forbear. <span class="pagenum">229</span><a + name="link229" id="link229"></a>One afternoon, while we were wandering + about Athens and its suburbs, our guide pointed to a low house of most + unpretending appearance, and enjoined us to “look at ze house.” + </p> + <p> + We looked, and asked if there was anything remarkable about it. + </p> + <p> + “That is ze house of ze ‘Maid of Athens’ of ze Lord + Byron.” + </p> + <p> + Of course we took a second look at the house, and as we did so, we saw at + one of the windows the face of an old, very old woman. + </p> + <p> + “Ah, zere is ze Maid of Athens herself. She look out and see us. You + will go in ze house?” + </p> + <p> + We held a short consultation and decided that we, a party of strangers + without introductions in any form, had no right to thrust ourselves into + her house and presence. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0089" id="linkimage-0089"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8239.jpg" alt="8239 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8239.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The “Doubter” was the only one who thought it would be the + proper thing to rap at the door and say we wanted to see the lady. We + walked on, and he followed us protesting that he wanted to see her, but we + paid no heed to his words. While walking sidewise with his eyes fixed upon + the house he slipped and fell into a large pool of mud, and the incident + changed the currents of his thoughts so that he said no more about the + woman whom Byron has made famous throughout the English reading world. + </p> + <p> + The Maid of Athens of the well known poem,—“<i>Zoe mou sas + agapo</i>”—was twice married, and, at the time of my visit to + Athens, was far advanced in her second widowhood. I was told that her + second husband was an Englishman, a Mr. Black, and that she was left at + his death with very slender means of support. A sub<span class="pagenum">230</span><a + name="link230" id="link230"></a>scription was raised for her in England so + that the last years of her life were passed in tolerable comfort. I heard + in London, just previous to my return to America, that she died in the + summer of 1874, and that the little house where she lived is now occupied + by her sister. + </p> + <p> + Whether the Maid of Athens was ever as beautiful as Byron represented her, + I am unable to say. When I saw her it was more than fifty years after the + penning of the poem, and fifty years, you know, will make great changes in + the features and forms of the best of us. The face I saw at the window was + old, withered, and wrinkled; it was not an unpleasant face, but age and + sorrow had obliterated all the beauty which may have shone there half a + century ago. + </p> + <p> + The moon reached the full while we were in Athens, and we embraced the + opportunity to see the Acropolis by moonlight. + </p> + <p> + In theory it is necessary to have a permit from the authorities to go + there at night, but a friend hinted to us that nothing of the kind was + necessary. We followed his directions and this was the result. + </p> + <p> + It was nine o’clock and later when we went there and rapped at the + gate. We rapped loudly, waited awhile and then rapped again. + </p> + <p> + The whole establishment of guards was evidently sound asleep, as all our + rapping brought no response. + </p> + <p> + Then we rattled the gate, threw stones on the roof of the hut, shouted and + made a noise generally. + </p> + <p> + No response. + </p> + <p> + Then more rattling and rapping,—more stone throwing and shouting and + with the same result as before. + </p> + <p> + Finally I put my face to the bars of the gate and at the very tip-top and + summit of my voice shouted the magic word, + </p> + <h3> + “<i>BACKSHEESH!!</i>” + </h3> + <p> + Instantly there was a sound of feet and voices in the hut, and half a + minute later a guard came to the gate and said something in Greek which I + did not understand. Then I passed him a franc which his fingers closed + upon, and I showed him another with an intimation that he would receive it + after we had seen the Acropolis. <span class="pagenum">231</span><a + name="link231" id="link231"></a>That guard wasn’t an idiot; money he + understood, but it was also necessary that we should have a written + permit, and he so insinuated. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0090" id="linkimage-0090"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0241.jpg" alt="0241 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0241.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + I gave him the first piece of paper I could find in my pocket—I + think it was my wine bill on the steamer from Constantinople; he looked at + it by the moonlight, nodded, said “bono,” and opened the gate + without further delay. + </p> + <p> + It is impossible to describe the Acropolis by moonlight, just as + impossible as it is to forget it. I never attempt what I know I cannot do + and therefore I leave the picture to the reader’s imagination. And I + would say to anybody who is going to Athens, be sure and time your visit + so as to be there near the full moon, and on no account fail to spend an + hour or two of a clear night in the Parthenon and among the temples that + surround it. I think the grandeur and majesty of the place are better felt + at that time than in the broad light of day. The softening effects of the + rays of the moon are nowhere more perfectly shown than in the ruins of the + Parthenon. I have seen the Coliseum at Rome, and the temple of Karnak in + Egypt by moonlight, and must give the palm of merit to the Acropolis. + These are built of <span class="pagenum">232</span><a name="link232" + id="link232"></a>grey or yellowish stone which absorbs some of the rays + and gives a certain somberness to the picture. But the Parthenon is of + white marble, so that the moonbeams light up the entire scene with a + warmth and distinctness that almost rival the effect of the morning sun. + </p> + <p> + One day just outside of Athens we saw a small caravan of Greek gypsies. + They were not a large party, some twenty persons in all, of both sexes, + and the usual variety of ages. They were dressed in a costume that seemed + a compromise between the Greek and Turkish, and some of their garments + were in rags. The men had a proud, haughty air, as if the country belonged + to them and they carried nothing but their rifles and other weapons. The + women were not so fortunate, as all of them had burdens; the foremost + person in the caravan was a woman who bore on: her back a cask that might + hold eight or ten gallons, and, by the way she bent forward I judged that + the cask was pretty well filled. She was leading a string of ponies and + each pony had a good supply of baggage on his back; behind this group + there was another woman leading another lot of beasts of burden. + </p> + <p> + Some of the women and two of the men were mounted on horses; the women + seemed to be stowed with other baggage because they were too weak to walk, + but the men were riding for the sake of personal comfort and not from + necessity. A dozen sheep were in the rear of the ponies, and were kept + from straying by some of the men and by two or three wolfish looking dogs. + Some of the pack horses had coops of chickens among their loads, and on + one of the packs a couple of hens were standing erect and appearing to + enjoy their afternoon ride. Altogether the cavalcade was quite picturesque + and I regretted that I had no time! to make a sketch of it. + </p> + <p> + We devoted an afternoon to the old curiosity shops of Athens, of which + there is a goodly number. Vases, coins, statuettes and all sorts of + antiquities—many of them modern—were shown to us and we made a + few purchases. Some of the jewelry was exquisite and showed that the gold + workers of ancient times were quite as skillful as their modern brethren. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Schliemann, who has made himself famous by excavations on the site of + ancient Troy, was then in Athens, and through the <span class="pagenum">233</span><a + name="link233" id="link233"></a>influence of a friend I obtained an + opportunity to examine his very interesting collection. He had a great + number of vases and other specimens of pottery which he obtained at Troy + from excavations at depths varying from twenty to a hundred and fifty + feet. A few of the vases bear inscriptions, but thus far no one has been + able to decipher them, and the forms of most of the articles discovered, + show that they belong to a very remote period. + </p> + <p> + There is a difference of opinion among the <i>savans</i> concerning the + antiquity of the articles discovered by Dr. Schliemann, and as I know a + great deal less about the subject than they do I do not propose to take + sides. + </p> + <p> + The enterprising explorer was full of courtesy and left his desk to + accompany me for an hour or more through his collection. He reserved the + greatest curiosities till the last. + </p> + <p> + After showing me many vases, cinerary urns, weapons, and implements of + stone and copper, sculptures on granite, and other things which were + stored in a shed adjoining his house, he led me to his study to inspect a + collection of photographs which he made at Troy. While I was looking at + these he unlocked a cabinet and brought out a number of gold dishes, + vases, necklaces, and rings, and placed them on the table. + </p> + <p> + “Here,” said the Doctor, his eye kindling with delight as he + spoke, “here is the treasure from the palace of King Priam. In my + excavations, I came upon the foundations of the palace, and one morning my + wife and I, while my workmen were at breakfast, managed to hit upon the + locality of the treasure chest. You observe that some of these things + appear to have been subjected to great heat, &c., and partially + melted. This was done, I presume, at the burning of the palace, after its + capture by the Greeks, and these articles had escaped discovery at the + time the place was sacked. The heavy masses of <i>debris</i> that fell + upon them served as their protection, and they lay undiscovered through + the thousands of years that have passed since the siege of Troy. + </p> + <p> + “Some of the scientists dispute my claim that these things belonged + to Priam, but for myself I have no doubt of it. I think you can be + entirely confident that you are examining and handling dishes that have + been touched by that celebrated king.” + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">234</span><a name="link234" id="link234"></a>I need + not say that I was greatly interested in the collection, and that I + lingered over it as long as politeness would allow me to do so. + </p> + <p> + One of the most interesting things I saw was a necklace and head-dress of + pure gold—the workmanship was exquisite, and there were upwards of + five hundred separate pieces in the two articles. The style of the + head-dress and necklace was like that we see on pictures of Assyrian + kings, and the ornaments were, doubtless, the property of some high + personage. The pieces had been carefully put together by the doctor, and + he showed me photographs of them, taken before his laborious task began + and after it was finished. + </p> + <p> + I should add that the excavations at Troy were made by Dr. Schliemann, at + his own expense and under his personal supervision. He had many + difficulties to contend with, including the opposition of the Turkish + government and the thievish propensities of his workmen. They robbed him + at all opportunities, and it was recently ascertained that by far the + larger part of the gold vases and other valuables from the ruins of the + palace were concealed by the workmen, and their discovery was quite + unknown to him. The Doctor was accompanied by his wife, who assisted him + in every way in her power; but it was impossible for them to be everywhere + at once, and to supervise excavations going on in half a dozen places + simultaneously. + </p> + <p> + When we were ready for departure we packed our baggage and drove to the + Piraeus, where we had a choice of two steamers to Syra. One was the <i>Stamboul,</i> + our old acquaintance, on which we had passed a very rough night; the other + was a Greek steamer, and we determined to inspect her. + </p> + <p> + A very brief inspection of her cabin was enough for us. The captain looked + as if he hadn’t washed himself since he was born, and the steward + appeared never to have been guilty of such an act. + </p> + <p> + The rooms had very little bedding, and the little that they possessed was + so dirty that it had evidently been used for the door-matting of a + well-patronized bar room in muddy weather, and had afterwards served as + the flooring of a pig-pen. <span class="pagenum">235</span><a + name="link235" id="link235"></a>The steward spoke nothing but Greek, and + he had no assistant; as near as we could make out, he was steward, + head-waiter, chambermaid, assistant-waiter, cabin boy, cook, and + forecastle attendant—anything you might happen to want. We were not + long in deciding how we should travel. The <i>Stamboul</i> was not all + that fancy paints a passenger ship, but she was infinitely preferable to + the <i>Mavrocoupolo</i>, or whatever her outlandish name was. + </p> + <p> + This Greek steamer had the monopoly of the passenger trade between Syra + and the Piraeus, and the other lines were not allowed to sell tickets for + that route. When we came to Greece, we bought tickets from Constantinople + to the Piraeus, and had no trouble; we now wanted to buy one to Syra by + the Austrian Lloyd line, where we were to change to a ship of the <i>Messageries + Maritimes</i> (French). But we couldn’t do anything of the kind, and + the only way we could get around it was to buy third-class tickets to Chio + (the first port beyond Syra), and then pay to the steward on board the <i>Stamboul</i> + the difference between first and third-class prices. + </p> + <p> + Was there ever a law so carefully drawn that somebody could not devise a + plan to get around it? + </p> + <p> + The company bit us pretty badly—the fleas helped them a little—as + we found that we had to pay very dearly for our connivance at violation of + the Greek law. This was the way of it. + </p> + <p> + We bought third-class tickets to Chio and went on board, where we paid the + steward the difference between first and third-class. In first-class fare, + where tickets are bought at the agencies, meals and rooms are included. + But after paying full rates, we were told that we had only secured the + privileges of the cabin, and must pay extra for meals and berths. + </p> + <p> + We called for the captain, and protested that it was a swindle. He + shrugged his shoulders, showed us the regulations, and said we must pay. + If we didn’t he must put us in prison at Syra. + </p> + <p> + We thought the prison might be something like the cabin of the Greek + steamer, and we paid the bill with the rapidity of a well-trained flash of + lightning. But we didn’t change our opinion on the subject, and to + this hour we think that the directors of the Austrian Lloyds are——— + </p> + <p> + I pause, as there may be an international law of libel. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">236</span><a name="link236" id="link236"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0091" id="linkimage-0091"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0246.jpg" alt="0246 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0246.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII—ADVENTURES IN QUARANTINE.—RHODES AND ITS MARVELS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Missing our Steamer—A Serious Dilemma—A Study of Faces—Making + a Row and What Came of It—Under the Yellow Flag—Adventures of + a Quarantined Traveller—Escaping the Plague—Mal-de-Mer—A + Laughable Incident—Getting on Our Sea-Legs—Custom House + Troubles—The Potency of “Backsheesh”—Oriental + Fashions in New York—“Doing” a Custom House Inspector—A + Curious Tradition—The “Lamb” as a Trade Mark—The + Temple of Diana—One of the “Seven Wonders”—Singular + Discoveries—A Horde of Scoundrels—The Island of Rhodes—The + Colossus—A Wonderful City—The Knights of St. John—Their + Exploits—Surrendering to the Turks.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>HEN I went on deck + the morning after our departure from the Piraeus, the steamer was at + anchor in the harbor of Syra. We expected to catch the French steamer that + was to sail that afternoon for Smyrna and the Syrian coast, and I looked + around for the <i>Tibre</i>, which was her name. + </p> + <p> + She was nowhere in sight, and a boatman who wanted a job was kind enough + to inform me that she had come and gone twelve hours before. + </p> + <p> + Here was a pretty caldron of piscatorial productions. As the rest of our + party made their appearance up the cabin stairs I broke the dreadful news + to them, and made a careful study of their features as they received it. + If there had been any profane persons in our number, I think a swearing + band could have been organized without much difficulty. + </p> + <p> + Weren’t we on our ears and didn’t we go to the office of the + company and make a row? <span class="pagenum">237</span><a name="link237" + id="link237"></a>We had a printed time-table and demanded why the steamer + sailed before her advertised time. The agent explained that he was very + sorry, but the fact was the steamer did not touch at Naples on account of + the quarantine there, and therefore she had reached Syra twenty-four hours + ahead of time. There was nothing for her to do at Syra and no reason why + she should wait, and so he had let her go. + </p> + <p> + We demanded a special steamer to take us to Smyrna, in season to overtake + the <i>Tibre</i>, but the agent wouldn’t give it. We could hire one + for one thousand dollars, but that was paying rather high for our passage, + and we demurred. + </p> + <p> + The only thing left for us was to take a small steamer of the Austrian + Lloyd’s that was to leave next day and might get us to Smyrna in + season to catch the <i>Tibre</i>. The agent telegraphed the state of the + case to the agent at Smyrna, and away we went for the other boat. + </p> + <p> + There she lay in the harbor, a little, old, paddle steamer, named the <i>Wien</i>, + a wooden craft that had been running a quarter of a century. She did not + look inviting externally. We wanted to go aboard and take a look at her + cabins, but here was a difficulty. A yellow flag floated from her topmast. + She was in quarantine, and if we once set foot on her we could not go + ashore again in Syra. She had come from Trieste by way of Italy, and there + was a five days’ quarantine in Greece against all ships from Italy. + So we waited until about the time of her departure. She was stopping for + the steamer with the mails from Trieste, and there were no less than four + steamers in port waiting the same mails. + </p> + <p> + We took a lounge around the public square of Syra, and drank beer and + coffee at a restaurant; then we took another lounge and more beer and + coffee, and then we took a couple of carriages and drove to the interior + of the Island, where there were some pretty orange groves and some very + attractive country seats. Then we came back and drank some beer and + coffee, and went on the steamboat—the steamer that brought us from + the Piræus—to sleep. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we started for the same sort of excitements as on the day + before, and just as we started, we saw the Trieste <span class="pagenum">238</span><a + name="link238" id="link238"></a>steamer poking her nose around a headland + and steaming toward the harbor. Then we gave up our projects, and prepared + to transfer ourselves to the <i>Wien</i>. + </p> + <p> + She lay near the entrance to the harbor, and an ugly wind was blowing + straight into the entrance. The wind wasn’t much for a steamer, + though she rocked about considerably, but it was altogether different with + a row boat, such as we engaged to transfer us. We made a contract for two + boats, one for us and one for our baggage, for the sanitary reasons of the + quarantine. The boat with our baggage was towed alongside by a rope about + thirty feet long, and then a couple of men descended from the steamer and + put the baggage on board. Then the boat was towed away again, and nobody + could enter it until a plentiful supply of salt water had been thrown over + it. + </p> + <p> + As for ourselves, we had gingerly work to get on board. Our boat went to + the steamer’s gangway, and was held under it by means of hooks and + ropes, but she was not allowed to touch it. The waves were short and + choppy, and we had to watch our chances and jump one by one upon the + gangway. The instant we touched it we were in quarantine, and so was + everything about us. We got on board without accident, and then came the + work of paying. The price had been fixed beforehand, and the boatman + wanted his pay at starting, but we were firm in refusing. This was in + accordance with our inflexible rule never to pay boatmen, hackmen, <i>et + id oinne genus</i>, until their services were ended. + </p> + <p> + But there was reason in the request of the boatmen on this occasion, and + we might have relaxed enough to pay him before getting on board the + steamer. Had we paid in the boat he could have received the money directly + from our hands without any nonsense. When we were all on board, one of our + party went to the foot of the gangway and held out the stipulated + napoleon. We and all our napoleons were infected the instant we came on + board, and the boatman was obliged to receive his in a tin cup of salt + water. And if the party who paid him had dropped overboard while leaning + down, and the boatman had rescued him, the boat and all it contained would + have gone into quarantine the <span class="pagenum">239</span><a + name="link239" id="link239"></a>prescribed number of days. Such an event + has occurred several times in Syra and other ports. In time of quarantine + a man must be very careful about his movements. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Wien</i> got away from Syra about four in the afternoon, and put + out into a very rough sea. The lady of our party went to bed immediately, + her husband didn’t feel very well, and two others of the party were + as cheerful as a pair of chickens that have been caught in a thunder + shower. The fifth member of the crowd knew he wouldn’t be seasick, + but had no appetite worth mentioning, and I was left alone in my glory, to + pace the deck or go below, as I pleased. + </p> + <p> + I haven’t been seasick for a reasonable number of years, and didn’t + want to begin again at that time and place. I have a suspicion that I take + a malicious delight in showing how well I can be when others around me are + covering the sea with maledictions, and furnishing pleasure and undigested + food to the fishes that follow in the wake of the ship. + </p> + <p> + To give an illustration of the way I can stand the rolling of the “deep + and dark blue ocean,” let me relate one incident. + </p> + <p> + Several years ago I went on board a steamer at Civita Vecchia, for Genoa. + When we left Leghorn there were about sixty passengers, as happy as though + they had just returned from a wedding or a circus. When we got out to sea + we struck into a Mediterranean squall, such as sometimes blows the strings + out of a pair of laced gaiters, or shaves the hair from the back of a bull + dog. Those passengers went below to study the interior construction of the + ship. Among them was an Englishman, who told me he had made four voyages + to China, and hadn’t been seasick since he was a boy. I was the only + passenger that didn’t go below, and I eat my dinner alone and with + an appetite that would terrify the keeper of a boarding house. My English + friend was much disordered about the stomach, and when we got to Genoa it + was all he could do to get himself on shore. I took care of his wife and + carried her down the gangway and up again on shore, and was as polite as I + knew how, and it was entire disinterestedness on my part, as I had never + met her before, and her husband was a big fellow who could fight if he + wanted to, <span class="pagenum">240</span><a name="link240" id="link240"></a>and, + moreover, seasickness had given her a bedraggled appearance that was not + calculated to incite love making to any alarming extent. + </p> + <p> + She looked as though somebody had run her through a patent clothes wringer + and forgotten to shake her out afterwards. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the <i>Wien</i> had left the harbor of Syra and got out to sea, + she tossed about in a very lively way, and it was no joke to walk along + her deck without falling. One needed to have as many legs as a spider or a + caterpillar to keep himself straight, and when you were below deck, the + creaking of the timbers was something surprising. + </p> + <p> + “As long as she creaks she holds,” is an old maxim of the + mariners, and if it be true, there was never a holdinger ship than the <i>Wien</i>. + </p> + <p> + We passed Samos and Naxos and other islands of the Ægean Sea, and when the + moon came out I propped and chocked myself into a corner on deck, and + devoted the time to thinking about the siege of Troy and a dozen other + things connected with the history of Greece. + </p> + <p> + Particularly did I think of the gold and silver things I had seen in Dr. + Schliemann’s collection at Athens, things that were said to have + come from the treasury chest of old King Priam, the same venerable oyster + that fought Agamemnon and the other Kings of Greece. + </p> + <p> + They are dead now, every mother’s son of them, and it was a pleasure + while looking at Priam’s personal property, to know “that the + old fellow couldn’t come in to carry it off, and that no wandering + heir could set up a Tichborne claim to it.” I read a great deal + about Priam when I went to school; a man named Homer wrote something about + him, and I got up quite an interest in Priam, and particularly in a young + lady that they called Helen. Because somebody stole, or, as the + pickpockets say, “raised” Helen, Troy was besieged and + destroyed with all its palaces and other good houses. + </p> + <p> + We reached Smyrna about noon the day after leaving Syra, and found the <i>Tibre</i> + at anchor. There was a delay in leaving the <i>Wien</i>, a vexatious + delay, of nearly an hour, just when time was very precious. The + formalities of the Turkish ports are not <span class="pagenum">241</span><a + name="link241" id="link241"></a>to be gone through in a hurry, as we found + to our cost The doctor of the ship was rowed off to the health office to + report everything correct. Then the Doctor of the Port, a Turkish + official, with a good deal of bombast about him, was rowed out in his + boat. The crew of the <i>Wien</i> was ordered to form in line at the ship’s + side, where the Doctor could see them. He surveyed them as carefully as he + could at a distance of twenty feet, and without coming on board he + pronounced the ship all right, and admitted her to <i>pratique</i>. And + then what a scramble among the boatmen, and what a scene of confusion! + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0092" id="linkimage-0092"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0251.jpg" alt="0251 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0251.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + There was shouting in all the languages of the Levant, and there was an + amount of crowding and pushing that ought to have thrown half of the + boatmen into the water. They swore at each other, or at least the accent + of what they said was very much like the accent of swearing in other + lands, and they clambered up the sides of the ship like so many monkeys. + We had taken time by the forelock by engaging a boatman and closing a + bargain with him while waiting for <i>pratique</i>, as we thought it would + save a few minutes, and was easier to do when the boats and men were ten + or fifteen yards distant, than when the latter were crowding the <span + class="pagenum">242</span><a name="link242" id="link242"></a>deck. We were + to be taken to the <i>Tibre</i> with our baggage, then to shore, and then + back to the <i>Tibre</i> again for a franc each. + </p> + <p> + On our way to the <i>Tibre</i> we were intercepted by a boat of the Custom + House; the official was smoking his pipe in the rear of his craft, and + just gave a glance at our baggage, as if to note the number of pieces; he + then extended his hand and pronounced the word “backsheesh!” + </p> + <p> + I, as paymaster of the party, gave him a franc, he waved his hand to + indicate that we were a numerous party and were liberally supplied with + baggage. I added a franc, he nodded assent as his fingers closed on it, + and the “<i>formalites de la douane</i>” were finished. + </p> + <p> + I unhesitatingly assert that the Orient has the most pleasing Custom House + arrangements I have ever seen. No trouble, no overhauling of baggage, no + exhibition of your unwashed linen to a crowd of staring idlers, and no + rumaging around generally in the places you desire should not be rumaged + at all. A little “backsheesh” to the official and everything + is satisfactory. + </p> + <p> + In Liverpool or New York, and likewise on the continent, you can sometimes + buy your way through, but you often hit the wrong man, and then there is a + row. You may attempt to bribe an honest man, (generally a very newly + appointed official,) and then you come off badly. In Turkey you cannot + make any such mistake, as the whole Custom House staff is on the make, and + will take your bribes without hesitation. + </p> + <p> + I observe with pleasure, that our officials in America are learning + something from the sleepy Orientals. + </p> + <p> + On my last trip home one of my fellow passengers had a lot of stuff that + was liable to duty, and he determined to get it through, if possible, free + of charge. So he packed his trunk, putting these things on the bottom and + a lot of old clothes on top. Then he spread open a ten dollar greenback + and laid it upon the old clothes, slightly securing it with a pin. When + his trunk was opened for examination my friend turned away so that the + inspector might not be troubled with his presence. + </p> + <p> + The examination lasted about a quarter of a minute. The inspector closed + the trunk with the remark that such a lot of old clothes wasn’t + worth carrying around; the passenger departed <span class="pagenum">243</span><a + name="link243" id="link243"></a>for his hotel and when there and in the + silence and solitude of his room he opened the trunk. + </p> + <p> + And behold, the pin that held the greenback was gone! + </p> + <p> + And the greenback was gone likewise! + </p> + <p> + What became of that greenback my friend never knew. He suggests that the + pin, being of English manufacture, was liable to confiscation and the + officer only did his duty in seizing it. In the hurry of removing the pin + the greenback may have adhered to it and passed into the pocket of the + officer without attracting his attention. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0093" id="linkimage-0093"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8253.jpg" alt="8253 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8253.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + When he emptied his pockets that night he was doubtless astonished at + finding the greenback, and still more when he examined it and found that + it was counterfeit. + </p> + <p> + We had less than two hours on shore, and therefore saw very little of + Smyrna. We walked or rather ran through the bazaars, not stopping to buy + any anything, but threading our way among Turks, Arabs, Levantines, + camels, donkeys, boxes, bales, filth, and other Oriental things. The + pavements were rough, and in many places they were muddy and slippery, and + by the time we got back to the landing we were thoroughly tired. + </p> + <p> + It had been our intention to make a journey to the ruins of Ephesus during + the two days’ stay of the <i>Tibre</i>, but this was out of the + question. + </p> + <p> + Though Smyrna has enjoyed the advantages of commerce for a very long time, + there is still a great deal of prejudice among her people. Here is a story + which was told me in illustration of this assertion: <span class="pagenum">244</span><a + name="link244" id="link244"></a>Some years ago, an English merchant sent a + cargo of goods to Smyrna, and among the articles were a hundred pigs of + block tin. The rest-of the cargo passed the custom house without trouble, + but the tin could not be landed, and the ship, at its departure, brought + the metal away. + </p> + <p> + And why? + </p> + <p> + Because of the trade mark upon it. The smelters of this particular lot had + adopted the figure of a lamb as their trade-mark, and stamped it on each + piece of tin. It happened that when the Crusaders went to Asia Minor, the + banners of some of the divisions of their army were ornamented with the + picture of a lamb. Consequently, the lamb became unpopular, and has + continued so to this day. + </p> + <p> + The tin in question was re-cast without the representation of the hated + animal, and sent again to Smyrna, where it was received without + hesitation. + </p> + <p> + It was a great disappointment to us that we could not go to Ephesus, the + seat of one of the “seven churches of Asia,” and a place of + great historical interest. A railway runs there from Smyrna, so that the + journey can be made with comparative ease. There is a considerable amount + of walking and donkey-riding after one gets there, and the accommodations + are not altogether palatial. Ephesus was one of the cities which claimed + the honor of being the birth-place of Homer, and it had a reputation for a + variety of things that do it very little good now. The greatest lion of + Ephesus was the Temple of Diana, which was accounted one of the seven + wonders of the world; Diana was accounted nearly as great a wonder, in + some respects, but she would be of very little consequence at the present + time. + </p> + <p> + The temple at Ephesus was said to be four hundred and twenty-five feet + long by half that distance in width. Its roof was supported by one hundred + and twenty-eight columns, each sixty feet high, and altogether the edifice + was the largest of all the Greek temples, as it occupied four times the + area of the Parthenon. Like the latter temple, it contained a statue of + gold and ivory, and there was a vast amount of wealth about the building. + The roof was set on fire one night by an incendiary named Erostratus, + (whether John, Charles, or William, I am unable to <span class="pagenum">245</span><a + name="link245" id="link245"></a>say), who lost his head in consequence. He + died happy, and avowed that he had no other object than to immortalize his + name. Hence came the declaration— + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “The daring youth that fired th’ Ephesian dome, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Outlives in fame the pious fool who raised it.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + The city and temple disappeared during the Middle ages, and at the + beginning of the present century the site was marked only by heaps of + rubbish, and by the Turkish village of Aya Soolook. + </p> + <p> + In the past twenty years, excavations have been made there at various + times, and are still going on. The foundations of the temple have been + discovered, and many interesting sculptures brought to light. + </p> + <p> + Ephesus at one time granted the right of asylum, and was known as a city + of refuge. + </p> + <p> + Any scoundrel who had offended the laws and found things too hot for him + at home, was all right in Ephesus; and the result was that the city was + overrun with criminals to such an extent, that the respectable inhabitants + asked the Emperor Augustus to abolish this right of asylum, which he did. + Society was in the condition of that of Texas before her admission to the + Union, and before she had any laws to keep rascals in check. + </p> + <p> + There used to be a couplet, to which our most South-western State was said + to owe its name: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + “When every other land rejects us, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + This is the land that freely takes us.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + Possibly the thieves, murderers, bounty-jumpers, and Tammany officials of + the olden time used to say: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “When law from the land would efface us, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + We’ll pack up our trunks for Ephesus.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + Neat, isn’t it? Well, the Judge got that up just as we were sailing + out of Smyrna. + </p> + <p> + We were on board the <i>Tibre</i> half an hour before her time of sailing. + As we steamed out of the harbor, and the lovely bay on which the city + stands, we had a most beautiful sunset, full of <span class="pagenum">246</span><a + name="link246" id="link246"></a>bright colors, in strong contrast to the + dark and rugged hills that form the setting of the bay. The general + features of Smyrna are not unlike those of Naples, when looked at from a + distance of half a dozen miles. The harbor is one of the safest along this + whole coast, and its trade appears to be quite prosperous. There is much + wealth at Smyrna, and a great many foreigners are settled there in + business. The population is estimated at one hundred and fifty thousand, + of which the Turks and Arabs number a little more than half. Then there + are forty thousand Greeks and Italians, fifteen thousand Jews, ten + thousand Armenians, and about five thousand Europeans of various + nationalities. There are mosques, churches, and synagogues among the + places of worship, and the commercial character of the population imbues + them with a great deal of liberality in religious matters. + </p> + <p> + A splendid quay was in course of construction at the time of my visit, and + when it is finished the maritime importance of Smyrna will be greatly + increased. The stone for this quay was made on the spot, from the sand of + the harbor, in the same way as the artificial stone that forms the + breakwater at Port Said, in Egypt. + </p> + <p> + There are three lines of steamers engaged in the coasting; trade of Syria + and Palestine—the French, the Austrian, and the Russian. The French + steamers run each way every fifteen days, the Russian every two weeks, and + the Austrian three times a month. They touch at most of the ports, and + make their voyages very leisurely. As a general thing, they run from one + port to the next in the night, and rest there during the day. Take our + steamer for an illustration. + </p> + <p> + She left Smyrna just before sunset; at noon next day she was at Rhodes, + where she lay till sunset, and then moved on. At breakfast next day she + was at Messina, and staid there till night, and so it went on, past + Alexandretta (the port of Aleppo), Latakia, Tripoli, and Beyrout. It was a + very pleasant way of making the journey, as we were at sea during the + night, and could spend the day on shore, each time at a new place. The + routes of the different lines vary somewhat, but all of them touch at + Beyrout and Jaffa. + </p> + <p> + We went on shore at Rhodes, and wandered among its palm trees, over its + curious walls, and up the famous street of the <span class="pagenum">247</span><a + name="link247" id="link247"></a>knights, where the armorial emblems over + the doors are still in place, left there by the Turkish conquerors in + honor of the Knights of St. John, and their gallant defense of the place + before their surrender. The defence of Rhodes forms one of the brightest + pages of history, a page that should never be soiled and never be effaced. + The site of the Colossus of Rhodes was pointed out; it was on one of the + bends of the land that form the harbor; the story that it stood across the + entrance, and that ships sailed between its legs, is a beautiful fiction, + more astonishing than true. + </p> + <p> + There are few places in Europe that have such a mediaeval appearance as + this city of Rhodes; its walls and towers, and the ancient appearance of + its houses, carry the visitor half a dozen centuries backward more easily + than do most places in the track of the tourist. And the life there had a + lazy, careless way about it, quite in keeping with the mural structures. + People were lounging at the water’s edge, some in the <i>cafés</i>, + and some under the palm trees in front of them. Nobody was in a hurry + about anything, and even the servants of the <i>cafés</i> had caught the + contagion, and moved around as listlessly as though they had been + appointed to their own executions, and were trying to make as much delay + as possible. There was little rivalry among the boatmen, and they good + naturedly assisted each other in getting to or from the little dock where + we landed. + </p> + <p> + Rhodes is the ancient Rhodes (a rose), and the name belongs both to the + island and the city. The latter has a population of about ten thousand, + and of these there are six thousand Turks, while the rest are Jews and + Greeks. The city is built in the form of an amphitheatre, upon the bay + that makes the harbor, but unfortunately the depth of water is not + sufficient to afford anchorage for ocean going steamers. It was a warm, + still, clear afternoon when we were there, and the town as we approached + it had a very quiet and lazy appearance. The walls and towers, the work of + the Knights of St John, carried us back to the middle ages, and it seemed + as if Rhodes had gone to sleep half a millennium ago and nobody had + disturbed her since. Strabo described the ancient city of Rhodes as a + place of great magnificence, with many public edifices that were profusely + adorned with works of art. There were said to have been three <span + class="pagenum">248</span><a name="link248" id="link248"></a>thousand + statues in the city, and altogether it must have been a wonderful place. + At present there are few remains of anything prior to the occupation by + the Knights of St. John in the early part of the fourteenth century. + </p> + <p> + One of the brightest pages in the history of the Crusades and the events + connected with them, is that whereon is written the chronicles of the + Knights of St. John. At the time of the first crusade the institution was + in high favor with the crusaders, many of whom joined it and bestowed + their fortunes upon it. Up to that time it had been merely a secular + institution, but its chief determined to organize it as a religious body + whose members took the vows of obedience, chastity, and poverty, and were + to devote their lives to the aid of the poor and sick in the Latin kingdom + of Jerusalem. + </p> + <p> + In the twelfth century the institution added another vow to those above + mentioned,—that of bearing arms in defense of religion. The order + thus assumed a military character and rapidly rose in wealth and power. In + some of the Saracenic wars the knights performed deeds of great valor, and + several battles were won by them. In the thirteenth century they were + driven from the Holy Land, in consequence of the reverses suffered by the + crusaders, particularly in the battle near St. Jean d’ Acre. After + this they established themselves at Cypress. Here they assumed a naval + character, as their ships carried pilgrims to and from the Holy Land, and + had frequent sea fights with the Turks. In A. D. 1309 they seized Rhodes, + which had been a resort of Moslem pirates, and fortified it in the manner + we see it at the present day. They were several times assailed by the + Turks, but repulsed every assault and made several expeditions into Asia + Minor. Their numbers were steadily recruited from the nobility of Europe, + and one time nearly all the best families of France, Spain, and Italy were + represented among the Knights of St. John. In A. D. 1522 the Sultan + Solyman the Magnificent, besieged them with an army twenty thousand + strong; they held out for six months—their whole strength was less + than six thousand men—they were at length forced to surrender. But + their defence had been so heroic that the Turks allowed them to retire + with the honors of war, carrying their arms and standards + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">249</span><a name="link249" id="link249"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0094" id="linkimage-0094"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0259.jpg" alt="0259 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0259.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">251</span><a name="link251" id="link251"></a>and + even some of their cannon. The Turkish fleet dipped its flags and fired a + salute, as the Knights with tearful eyes sailed away from the island which + their order had held for more than two centuries. It is recorded that the + commander, Phillipe de l’Isle Adam, was the last to leave the island + and that he turned and kissed his hand toward Rhodes as his ship sailed + away. The trumpet that was blown at Rhodes to give the signal of the + retirement of the Knights is preserved at Malta, and I had the pleasure of + examining it several months after my visit to the scene of the heroic + defence. After temporary sojourns in Candia, Sicily, and Italy, the + Knights, in A. D. 1530, were established at Malta where they built a + strong fortress which resisted several sieges by the Turks. They remained + at Malta until 1798, when Napoleon, on his way to Egypt, seized the Island + and virtually put an end to the existence of the order. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0095" id="linkimage-0095"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5261.jpg" alt="5261 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5261.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">252</span><a name="link252" id="link252"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0096" id="linkimage-0096"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0262.jpg" alt="0262 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0262.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII—SYRIA, THE LAND OF THE SUN.—DRAGOMEN, GUIDES, + AND COURIERS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Rough Night on Shipboard—A Sea-sick Turk—What he said—Rum + and Petroleum—Meditations on Turkish Hash—The Camel, his + tricks and uses—A Knowing Brute—How he shirks a burden—George + Smith, the Assyrian Savan—Beyrout—Its Antiquities and Wonders—Going + on Shore—The Dragoman and his office—Eastern Guides and their + Character—Travelling on Horseback in Syria—The road to + Damascus—An unexpected trouble—Paying fare by Weight—Disadvantages + of a heavy “party”—A trial of Wits—Waking up the + Judge—Telling White Lies—The “Doubter’s” + Predicament.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span>T grew rough in + the night, after we left Rhodes, and the <i>Tibre</i> tossed about in a + very lively way. + </p> + <p> + There was a Turk in the state room on one side of me, and an Armenian + woman in the room on the other side. + </p> + <p> + The Turk rolled about very uneasily; the springs of his bed were rather + noisy, and I could hear them creak every time he turned over. I venture to + say that he turned in his bed not far from 243,654 times in the night; not + that I counted them, but only guessed. Every time the ship gave a lurch he + shouted “Allah!” and between times he cleared his stomach or + his conscience of everything that had rested there in the last ten years. + </p> + <p> + As for the Arménienne, she took out her share in groaning, and she did + that so well as to entitle her to the first place at an Irish wake. Had + she asked me for a diploma, I could have given her one that would have + made her fortune, but she didn’t put in an appearance till she came + out to leave the ship at Alexan<span class="pagenum">253</span><a + name="link253" id="link253"></a>dretta. She wanted to say her prayers, but + was too weak to do so, though she shouted “Constantine” as + often as the Turk said “Allah.” As for the Turk, he stuck to + his employment with most commendable zeal. Between the two, I didn’t + get much sleep during the night, and was glad when morning came and the + steamer anchored at Mersina. + </p> + <p> + It was too rough to go on shore with comfort, and there was nothing to see + after getting there, as the place is small and has no special + distinguishing features. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we were at Alexandretta, the port of Aleppo; and there we + went on shore. + </p> + <p> + Almost the first object that caught my eye, as I stepped on shore, was a + barrel of New England rum, with the name of the Boston manufacturer + carefully stencilled on its head. In nearly every part of the world where + I have been, I have found that the enterprise of Massachusetts has sent + its rum, a harbinger of civilization, that must puzzle the heathen in + their efforts to understand the principles of Christianity. A barrel of + petroleum was just beyond it, another bearer of light from the New World + to the nations wrapped in darkness. + </p> + <p> + Our poetic fancies, on the juxtaposition of these gifts of America to the + old world, were cut short by our entrance to the bazaars, a series of low + sheds with a street between them, little more than a couple of yards wide. + Merchants were squatted in their shops, with their goods piled all round + them; shop, goods, and merchant, all included, rarely occupied a space + more than eight feet square. + </p> + <p> + The official known in American stores as a floor-walker would be entirely + superfluous here; he might as well try to walk in the cage of a canary + bird as in an Oriental shop. + </p> + <p> + The customer stands in the street, or sits on the low bench that forms the + front of the shop; a party as large as ours—half-a-dozen—blocked + the street and made it inconvenient for others to get around or for + ourselves to see anything. Then there were camels, dogs, and donkeys + moving about, and you had to look sharp to prevent being run over. + </p> + <p> + There was a restaurant a little larger than the rest of the shops, but + still very small; and there was a butcher’s shop, where <span + class="pagenum">254</span><a name="link254" id="link254"></a>a couple of + men, with large knives, were making mutton-hash for native consumption. + The hash was rolled around on a large block, and cut with knives at every + turn, and frequently the knife came so near the fingers of the operator as + to endanger them. With ordinary carelessness, there ought to be about two + per cent, of fingers in a lot of hash after its preparation is complete. + </p> + <p> + Outside the town we visited a group of camels. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0097" id="linkimage-0097"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9264.jpg" alt="9264 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9264.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + These patient beasts have a dingy hide, with thin hair, and their + appearance is so ungainly that I should think they would be ashamed of + themselves. I would give something to know what is a camel’s idea of + beauty; it must be something quite out of the ordinary run. A little + distance away, they resemble large turkeys, and, with heads stretched out + when they trot, you would take them for the aforesaid turkeys hunting + after grasshoppers. A lot of the beasts were being loaded for the + interior, and I was interested in watching the operation. + </p> + <p> + The camel is made to kneel, and then a quantity of old blankets is spread + on his hump, on which to place the saddle. This is formed of a few sticks + joined together, much like the ordinary mule saddle, only somewhat larger. + The freight to be carried is fastened to this saddle by means of ropes, + and the Arabs have a very keen eye for balancing the boxes and barrels + that make up a camel’s load. My pity was roused for a camel that + made half-a-dozen ineffectual efforts to rise after he was loaded, and was + only brought to his feet by the assistance of one man pounding him and + three others lifting at the load. But a gentleman of our party was + familiar with the camel, and said: <span class="pagenum">255</span><a + name="link255" id="link255"></a>"The chances are two to one that the + distress of the beast is a sham. They are up to all that sort of trick + when being loaded, as they sometimes secure a diminution of their cargoes + by playing it sharp. I have seen an old camel sold by putting a lot of + empty boxes on him. They weighed very little, and yet he tried + half-a-dozen times to rise, and couldn’t, until he was cudgeled. The + whining and groaning of the camel is a good deal of a fraud. You have seen + western pack-mules in America do the same thing.” + </p> + <p> + Sagacious beast the camel! + </p> + <p> + If the Hindostanee doctrine of metempsychosis is correct, I wonder what + sort of spirits enter the bodies, of the ship of the desert? + </p> + <p> + We saw the camel-train move out on the road to Aleppo, ninety miles + distant, and we walked a mile or so upon the road. Two passengers who were + bound for Nineveh and Bagdad, on the Euphrates, left us here, and we saw + them off on their journey. One of them was Mr. George Smith, who was + making researches at Nineveh for the British Museum and the London Daily + Telegraph conjointly. + </p> + <p> + He expected to be twenty-five days making the journey to Nineveh, and said + it was possible that bad weather might make his route somewhat longer. He + made some valuable discoveries in his first explorations there, and hoped + to make many more. I am sure all the passengers of the <i>Tibre</i> wished + him every possible success. + </p> + <p> + While I am writing these pages, his book on his explorations has been + published in London, and is receiving the praises of the scientific world. + </p> + <p> + Camels and palm trees, ancient ruins, stray dogs, Arabs, water-pots, and + other things, gave the road to Aleppo an Oriental appearance, and the + temptation to push forward to the great desert and away to the eastward + was by no means a light one. But this was not to be undertaken; we + returned to the steamer, and were borne away towards Beyrout, where, three + days later, after stopping at two unimportant points, we landed and set + our faces toward Damascus. <span class="pagenum">256</span><a + name="link256" id="link256"></a>Bcyrout presents a pretty appearance from + the water. The land on either side sweeps gracefully around to form a bay, + and at the end of this bay the city is nestled. Back of it is the famous + Mount Lebanon, from which were brought the cedars used in the construction + of the Temple at Jerusalem; the sides of the mountain are steep, but not + precipitous, and the summit is frequently covered with clouds. + </p> + <p> + Seen from the city, the mountain has a bleak, barren appearance, owing to + the masses of white limestone cropping out at frequent intervals and + reflecting the sunlight to such an extent as to give it the name by which + it is known, “the White Mountain.” The sides of the mountain + are cultivated in terraces, and the front walls of these terraces + frequently consist of the solid limestone rocks. As one looks up the + mountain, he sees only the faces of these terraces, the verdure which they + sustain being out of sight. + </p> + <p> + The old town of Beyrout is very old, and its streets are narrow and very + often rough and dirty. The new town, or rather the new part of the town, + has wide streets and is sufficiently well paved to allow carriages and + carts to move about; the pavement is excellent for Syria, but would have + been considered very poor in an American city. The population is now about + sixty thousand, which is three times what it was thirty years ago; it is a + mixed population of Moslems, Christians, and Jews—about as mixed as + that of Constantinople or Cairo. Business is active, and the city has a + very pronounced air of prosperity. + </p> + <p> + Antiquities and curious sights for the ordinary tourist are few in number + and not very interesting. There are Roman, Assyrian, and Arabic remains, + in the shape of tablets sculptured on the rocky walls of the Nahr-el-Kelb + or Dog River, about half an hour’s drive from Beyrout; and there are + a few traces in the town itself of the Roman occupation. All of them can + be seen in a short time, and to a stranger who has come straight from + America, without stopping, they would doubtless be interesting. But where + you have done Rome and Athens, and half the cities of Europe and Asia, you + won’t linger long over the antiquities of Beyrout. + </p> + <p> + But all this time, while I have been droning about Beyrout and Mount + Lebanon, I have kept you waiting at the gangway of the + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">257</span><a name="link257" id="link257"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0098" id="linkimage-0098"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0267.jpg" alt="0267 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0267.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">259</span><a name="link259" id="link259"></a>steamer. + Well, you have the consolation of knowing that you have put in the time + while waiting for the ship to undergo the quarantine formalities and + obtain <i>pratique</i>. + </p> + <p> + A crowd of dragomen and guides invaded the steamer as soon as they had + permission to come on board, and were very energetic in endeavors to + secure our patronage. They presented credentials that would have entitled + them to anything short of canonization, and to read their credentials you + would consider them the best and most honest men in the world. + </p> + <p> + We selected the guide belonging to the hotel which we had determined to + patronize, and repelled as best we could all the others, by telling them + we had no need of their services, and should not take them. We obtained a + boat, with a little bargaining, and went on shore, where a dense crowd of + Arab porters were in attendance. Two francs of “backsheesh” + took us through the custom house, and we followed guides and porters to + the hotel, and were followed by a guard of honor of about a dozen + dragomen, very much as an organ-grinder is accompanied by a troop of small + boys. + </p> + <p> + While we were coming on shore there was a row between the guide of the + hotel, and the dragomen belonging to the same establishment, in + consequence of the former trying to fasten himself upon us, for the + journey to Damascus. The latter requested the guide to stick to his + business, and imperatively told him to mind his place and keep it. Some of + my readers may ask the difference between the two positions, and for their + benefit I will venture an explanation. + </p> + <p> + A guide is a necessary evil of European or Oriental travel, particularly + the latter; you can get along in Europe without a guide, unless you are + pressed greatly for time and want to see things in the shortest possible + limit, but in Oriental cities you will find a guide indispensable, at + least for the first two or three days of your stay, until you get the run + of the place. The “guide” belongs to the city and its + surroundings; he is called guide in the Orient, and <i>valet de place</i> + or <i>commissionaire</i> in Europe. In Europe he generally knows something + of the history of the city, where he shows you about and can tell you of + the curiosities, the date of the construction of the cathedral, palaces, + <i>et cetera.</i> <span class="pagenum">260</span><a name="link260" + id="link260"></a>But in the Orient you must not expect anything of the + kind; you must rely upon your guide book for all historical information, + and as a general thing, must indicate to the guide the different places + you wish to visit. His services generally consist in taking you to those + places, and in acting as your interpreter. As for knowledge beyond his day + and generation he has none. For example, a local guide in Venice will take + you to the Doge’s palace, or the church of St. Mark, and tell you + the date of construction, the name of the builder, the uses of each + portion, and will go on step by step till he has delivered a sort of + lyceum lecture, which he has carefully learned, has delivered a great many + times before and expects to deliver as often as he can get an engagement + for an indefinite number of years to come. In Constantinople you wish to + visit the Mosque of St. Sophia; the guide will get the necessary ticket + and take you there, and the most you can expect of him, after you get + inside, is to tell you which is the floor and which is the roof. Sometimes + he is not equal even to that effort of intellect. + </p> + <p> + In Europe there is the travelling courier; he is engaged by people willing + to pay for luxuries, goes with them from city to city, looks after their + baggage, makes most of their bargains, acts as their interpreter, and + frequently as a local guide, and is supposed to know the continent and its + belongings pretty thoroughly. + </p> + <p> + The dragoman is to the Orient what the courier is to Europe. The + difference is caused by the difference of the two regions. In Europe you + travel by rail and steamer; in the Orient there are no railways, and in + all Syria and Palestine, with the exception of the one between Beyrout and + Damascus, there is not a carriage road. You must travel on horseback, must + sleep in tents, while between the cities, and must have a regular camp + equipage. + </p> + <p> + The dragoman makes it his business to attend to all this. He supplies your + parties with horses, tents, food, and everything else at a fixed price per + day, and when in the cities he supplies you with a local guide, but never + acts as one himself. He is to the guide what the horse is to the donkey, + or a general to a captain, and he frequently puts on airs enough to set up + a windmill. I hope I have made a clear enough explanation of the + difference between the two. <span class="pagenum">261</span><a + name="link261" id="link261"></a>From Beyrout to Damascus there is an + excellent road, equal to the best turnpikes of America, and the <i>diligence</i> + roads of Europe. It was constructed by a French company under a charter or + firman from the Sultan, and is a triumph of engineering skill. Twice a day + there is a <i>diligence</i> each way over the road; the morning departure + is at four A. M., and the evening at six P. M. The time from Beyrout to + Damascus fourteen and one-half hours and from Damascus to Beyrout thirteen + and one-half, owing to the difference of elevation. + </p> + <p> + We went at once to the office of the company, where we were politely + received, and after considerable talk, and an examination of the <i>diligences</i>, + we hired a special carriage, which was to take our party of six to + Damascus and back, stopping midway long enough to allow us to visit + Baalbek. + </p> + <p> + The entire cost, including the halt <i>en route</i>, and at Damascus, was + about sixteen dollars (gold) for each person, certainly not an + unreasonable price. But we came near having to pay more, and it happened + this way. + </p> + <p> + We conducted our negotiations in the outer office, and when we had settled + the whole matter, paid the money and received the ticket there arose a + question about some trivial matter which the agent said he would refer to + the manager. The manager’s office was across the hall, and as the + agent entered it, he beckoned for us to follow. We sauntered in, one after + the other, and on entering found manager and agent settling the question + we had raised. + </p> + <p> + The manager raised his eyes as we entered. They rested upon us for an + instant and then he started back as though somebody had drawn a revolver + upon him. + </p> + <p> + “<i>Mon Dieu!</i>” he exclaimed, “and is <i>this</i> the + party for Damascus?” + </p> + <p> + “<i>Certainement, monsieur</i>,” replied the agent, waving his + hand toward us, whereat we bowed to the manager. + </p> + <p> + There was the portly form of the judge in the foreground. He weighed two + hundred and thirty pounds, avoirdupois, net, before breakfast, and a great + deal more after a square meal. + </p> + <p> + Then came my slender frame of six feet one, with corresponding breadth of + beam and depth of hold. <span class="pagenum">262</span><a name="link262" + id="link262"></a>Gustave was as tall as I but not equal to me in diameter. + He happened, however, to be wearing one of my overcoats so that he bulged + very respectably. + </p> + <p> + Charley and the “Doubter” were in the rear. They were fair to + middling in size but the manager didn’t see them, his eyes being + wholly filled with the foremost trio, and if he had been a young widow on + a hunt for a husband he couldn’t have watched us more eagerly. + </p> + <p> + “Ah, <i>Mon Dieu, Mon Dieu!</i>” continued the manager; + “we can never carry this party on single tickets. And where is the + sixth?” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0099" id="linkimage-0099"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0272.jpg" alt="0272 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0272.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + “Madame is at the hotel,” I replied, “she is so small + that we call her the baby. You should see her. <i>Elle est très petite, + très jolie, et trescharmante</i>.” + </p> + <p> + My endeavor to divert his attention by an appeal to a Frenchman’s + admiration for a pretty woman (many persons not of French birth are + troubled the same way) was of no avail. He t measured our heavy trio and + returned to the charge by asserting: <span class="pagenum">263</span><a + name="link263" id="link263"></a>"It is impossible to take you for that + price. We calculated upon two horses for the carriage and we must have + three. What enormous men you are.” + </p> + <p> + The judge now found tongue and repelled the insinuation that he was <i>enorme</i>. + </p> + <p> + “You think I am large? You should see my partner. He always rides in + two carriages, and once when he slipped on the icy sidewalk, the people + for half a mile around thought it was an earthquake.” + </p> + <p> + “<i>Pardon, Monsieur</i>,” I added, “<i>Son Excellence, + Monsieur le juge</i>,” and I waved my hand in the direction of my + friend, “is not as heavy as you may think. He is nothing but a big + bag of wind, as you would find if you should stick a fork into him.” + </p> + <p> + This raised a laugh in which the manager joined. The judge retorted on me + with a remark which personal respect impels me to keep back from this + narrative. It was sufficient to raise another laugh, and under the + diversion thus created we got the manager into good humor. We brought him + around all right, but I firmly believe it would have cost us more if he + had seen us before the ticket had been paid for and delivered. As we bowed + out of the room the judge was in the rear and caught the manager’s + remark to the agent. + </p> + <p> + “<i>Mon Dieu! Ils sont énormes</i>.” + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter,” not knowing French, was standing by during the + conversation without the faintest idea of what was occurring. He looked on + with an expression similar to that of a pig contemplating a railway train, + and when we got outside he asked what it was all about. + </p> + <p> + “Something very serious,” said the judge. “The manager + objected to so much weight, and wanted <i>you</i> to remain behind. We + tried to compromise with him, but it was of no use, and you are to stay in + Beyrout till we return.” + </p> + <p> + Then the “Doubter” exploded, said he wouldn’t stay, and + furthermore, he believed the judge was not telling him the truth; his + doubts were so strong on the subject, that when we reached the hotel he + hired an English-speaking dragoman to accompany him to the stage company’s + office and learn the exact state of the case. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">264</span><a name="link264" id="link264"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0100" id="linkimage-0100"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0274.jpg" alt="0274 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0274.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX—THE GROVES OF LEBANON.—A NIGHT AMONG THE ARABS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The “Sights” of Beyrout—Excursion to Dog River—An + Obstinate Carriage-Owner—How he was “Euchred”—Moral + of this Incident—Off for Damascus—Ascending Mt. Lebanon—An + Arab Driver—Cultivating “Kalil,” our Jehu—The + Cedars of Lebanon—A Grove as Old as Solomon’s Temple—A + Wonderful Old City—The Temple of the Sun—Mystery of Tadmor—Cyclopean + Masonry—Monstrous Monoliths—Their Dimensions—The “Doubter’s” + Doubts and their Solution—Sleeping in an Arab House—What We + Saw There—Divans as Couches—A Dangerous Valley—The + Robber’s Haunt.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span>FTER we had + lunched we went out to see the town, and then we hired carriages for a + drive to Dog River, which we were told would require a couple of hours. We + were to pay six francs each carriage “for two hours to Dog River,” + and when we were seated the owner of the stable demanded the money in + advance. + </p> + <p> + We wouldn’t pay. + </p> + <p> + He threatened to unharness the horses, and actually began. + </p> + <p> + We told him he must take us out of the carriages, and we lighted our + cigars, and settled back for a comfortable rest. + </p> + <p> + A crowd collected to see the fun. The owner swore that it was always the + rule to pay in advance, and we replied that there was no rule without one + exception. + </p> + <p> + He said he must take the money, as he could not trust his drivers, and we + invited him to occupy the box till the end of the excursion, and then take + his pay. The upshot of the matter: was that he finally told the drivers to + go ahead, and they went. Dog River was reached in twenty minutes, and then + the joke + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">265</span><a name="link265" id="link265"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0101" id="linkimage-0101"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0275.jpg" alt="0275 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0275.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">267</span><a name="link267" id="link267"></a>was + apparent. We would have been there and back in an hour or less had we paid + in advance, and there would have been no such thing as redress. + </p> + <p> + We kept the carriages two hours and took a drive of a couple of miles on + the Damascus road to a pretty grove of pines. Then we returned to town + just inside of the stipulated time and handed over the pay to the drivers + only when we were deposited at the door of the hotel. + </p> + <p> + Moral: Be cautious about paying a hackman in advance. + </p> + <p> + We are told and believe that the horse is a noble animal—why is it + that nearly every one who associates with him is a scoundrel? A horse + jockey is never held up as a pattern of honesty; the race track is the + scene of much that is wicked, and as for hackmen, their rascality is the + next thing to an axiom—a selfevident proposition. + </p> + <p> + Our carriage was at the hotel door at nine in the morning of the day after + our arrival at Beyrout, and as soon as we could stow ourselves away we + were off. + </p> + <p> + There was a comfortable space for five, but rather close work for six, and + it was absolutely necessary that one should ride outside with the driver. + I undertook the task, and by a scientific arrangement of baggage built up + a comfortable seat. We started, and I went to cultivating the acquaintance + of the driver. + </p> + <p> + He spoke a little French, so that he could manage to understand me, but + his strong point in the way of language was Arabic. He was as black as—-well, + <i>one</i> of the blackest men I ever saw—as black as the character + of a candidate for office, when his opponent takes a turn at him. His lips + were curly and his hair was thick—you can read the other way if you + like—and he couldn’t be excited into a smile by any ordinary + means. The only thing I could do to induce him to grin was to attempt to + sing. He thought my singing rather funny, but, as it frightened the + horses, he begged me to desist. He was a skilful driver, and his name, + Kalil, a name about as common in that country as George or Charles with + us. + </p> + <p> + We rattled out of Beyrout past the forest of pines to which the European + residents sometimes drive on a pleasant afternoon. A rain during the night + had moistened the road, and at several <span class="pagenum">268</span><a + name="link268" id="link268"></a>places where the laborers were repairing + it, the carriage was a heavy load for the horses. These, by the way, were + three in number, strong, sleek, well kept horses, that knew their work and + performed it. Hardly were we out of the city before we began ascending + Mount Lebanon, and the ascent is by no means an easy matter. The summit of + the mountain where the road crosses it is five thousand six hundred feet + above the sea level; as the crow flies, it is not more than seven miles + from this summit to Beyrout, but as you follow the road it is nearly + twenty miles. We were not fitted with wings for flying, and consequently + we stuck to the road which the company provided for us. It was slow work + for the horses, and, to ease the load, the lightest and most enterprising + of us left the carriage and walked. + </p> + <p> + The road is of excellent construction and reflects great credit upon the + engineer who made the surveys and laid it out. The cost must have been + something very great, and I was not surprised to learn that the investment + had never paid well, in spite of the apparently good business of the + company. In addition to the two <i>diligences</i> each way daily, the + company sends a daily freight train of fifteen wagons; whether there is + anything or nothing for them to carry, it is all the same—the wagons + start at a fixed time, and are allowed three days for the journey, from + one city to the other. + </p> + <p> + There is a large station for freight in each of the terminal cities, and + at reasonably regular intervals along the road there are wayside stations + with stables of good size, and with quarters for the station-keeper and + attendants. The stables, stock, wagons, carriages, and all other property + of the company, appeared to be well kept, and without any meanness of + management, and the discipline of the men was very strict. I had reason to + find it out in a practical way. + </p> + <p> + I have done a good deal of staging and posting in various parts of the + world, and have learned that it is generally a good plan to get on + friendly terms with drivers, no matter what their nationality, color, or + previous condition of servitude may be. In pursuance of this plan, I + cultivated Mr. Kalil, the gentleman of Nubian origin, who conducted our <i>atelage</i>. + I gave him a cigar as soon as we started, and he thanked me by touching + his hand to his breast, his lips, and his forehead—this is <i>a l’Arabe</i>—and + when we pulled up at a wayside cabaret to tighten some of the straps, I + “stood treat” with a glass of arrack, which he swallowed + without a grimace. Then I intimated that if he would put us through + lively, and never mind killing a horse or two, he could consider me good + for a liberal “backsheesh.” He shook his head and showed me + the way bill, and I saw the company knew its business. + </p> + <p> + The drivers are required to go between the stations at a certain speed, + and they must not exceed it, neither must they fall short, unless from + unavoidable reasons. If they go too fast they are corrected; I do not know + exactly how, but from the customs of the country, I should imagine that + for a slight offense a driver’s pay would be stopped, and he would + be pounded a few days with a hammer, a scythe, or a trace chain, till he + died. For a more serious offense he would be treated with severity + proportionate to the enormity of his conduct. + </p> + <p> + The time of arrival and departure at each station is noted on the way bill + by the station master, so that there is no chance to cut under in any way. + I observed the station master examining the horses’ feet as soon as + the animals were delivered to him and then making notes on his book. I + thought this a strange proceeding until I learned that the horses were + numbered on the hooves, the number being neatly cut with an engraving + tool, or burned in with an iron. + </p> + <p> + The company allows none but its own teams on the road, except on payment + of a heavy toll; the old bridle road or track is in sight most of the way, + and we saw many pack trams of camels, mules, donkeys, and horses threading + their way through the mud, while we were rolling on a macadamized track. + In no instance did we see a pack train on the modern road. + </p> + <p> + Away to the north, over a rough and difficult road, are the famous Cedars + of Lebanon. + </p> + <p> + They are in a valley which is dominated by the high peaks of the range, + and stand on a little hill or knoll, so that they are visible from a + considerable distance. + </p> + <p> + The grove is not large—one can walk quite around it in half an hour—and + contains not far from four hundred trees of all <span class="pagenum">270</span><a + name="link270" id="link270"></a>sizes. The old and gnarled trees are in + the centre, while the younger ones form the outside of the grove. Not more + than a dozen can claim any great antiquity, but there are thirty or forty + others that vary from three to five feet in diameter—the largest of + the trees, and supposed to be one of the oldest, is more than forty feet + in circumference. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0102" id="linkimage-0102"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9280.jpg" alt="9280 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9280.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The trees have been much defaced and broken by visitors, some of whom + would no doubt carry away the whole of Mount Lebanon if it could be packed + in a travelling trunk. + </p> + <p> + Though there are other cedar groves in Syria, the one here mentioned is + the most important, for the reason that it is supposed to have furnished + the timber for Solomon’s Temple, as recorded in the Old Testament. + Cedar trees were doubtless very abundant in the palmy days of Jerusalem; + at present they are very scarce, and if the natives and other barbarians + continue to destroy their limbs and build fires in the grove, as they do + in these days, these famous trees will soon live only in history. + </p> + <p> + Up, up we went along the sides of Mount Lebanon, the air growing cooler as + we rose, and a violent hail-storm dropping upon us. It was warm when we + left Beyrout, and I mounted my box without an overcoat. Soon it grew cool, + and I donned a light one; an hour later, I abandoned the light for a heavy + one; next I spread my shawl in front of me, and next I wrapped a silk + kerchief around my neck. + </p> + <p> + We made our second change of horses after passing the summit, and then + began the descent. <span class="pagenum">271</span><a name="link271" + id="link271"></a>Now we had speed; we wound down and down, as we had wound + up and up, but we went three or four times as fast. Far away at our feet + lay a plain—the plains of Buka. Two hours from the summit, we were + at Stora, a wayside station, where we passed the night, and were most + kindly treated by the keepers—a Greek man married to an Italian + woman, once a <i>danseuse</i> at La Scala, Milan. + </p> + <p> + Next morning before day, we were up and off for Baalbek, which lies about + twenty miles away to the left of the road. + </p> + <p> + It had rained in the night, and the soil was soft and sticky, making slow + work for our horses. The mud clung to their feet and formed huge balls, + and we could only advance at a walk. The saddles were unused to us and we + to them, and we hurt them a good deal. When we dismounted at Baalbek, + every one of the party walked like Falstaff’s recruits, wide between + the legs, as though accustomed to the gyves, and some of us were inclined + to stand while at meals. We had no time to waste, and after lunch + proceeded to do the ruins. + </p> + <p> + We found them all that fancy and travellers have painted them. They are + grander and loftier than anything at Rome or Athens, and the architecture + is of a most beautiful and delicate pattern. The temple in its glory must + have been something majestic, and I have seen few things among the ruins + and edifices of Europe and Asia more striking to the eye or more beautiful + in general effect than the court and colonnades of the Temple of the Sun. + </p> + <p> + But the wonder of Baalbek is in the stones used in its construction. Hewn + stones, twelve, fifteen, and twenty feet long, and proportionately wide + and high, are frequent in the walls and substructures. You grow weary of + saying: “There’s one!” “Look at this!” + “and this!” “and this!” You wander down in the + underground passages, and the size of the stones, placed as precisely as + bricks in a wall of a building of to-day, fairly astounds you; you come + out, and look on the wall of the temple, and you find stones twenty-four, + twenty-eight, and thirty feet long, and proportionally wide and high. You + see stones of this sort away up in the air at the tip of the columns, and + you wonder how they got there. + </p> + <p> + In the western wall are three great stones, one of them sixty<span + class="pagenum">272</span><a name="link272" id="link272"></a>four feet + long, another sixty-three feet eight inches, and another sixty-three feet; + they are thirteen feet high and thirteen feet thick. They are twenty feet + above ground, properly placed in position, and they were brought from the + quarries nearly a mile away. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0103" id="linkimage-0103"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9282.jpg" alt="9282 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9282.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + And in the quarries, is another stone of the same sort sixty-eight feet + long, but not quite detached from the rock below. + </p> + <p> + Don’t drop the subject now but pace off sixty-three feet in your + garden or back yard or some other man’s yard or garden; then pace + off thirteen feet and then look up thirteen feet on the side of the house + and then imagine a hewn stone as large, and after you have done it you + will just begin to imagine these stones as we saw them. + </p> + <p> + During our evening halt at Stora one of us read aloud from the guide book + the description of Baalbek. + </p> + <p> + When we came to the measurement of the stones the “Doubter” + explained: “Is anybody fool enough to believe such nonsense?” + </p> + <p> + We tried to argue with him that possibly the stones were of that size, but + he closed the argument as he did most arguments by saying: “I know + better.” + </p> + <p> + On our way to Baalbek we saw the stone in the quarry and asked what he + thought of it. <span class="pagenum">273</span><a name="link273" + id="link273"></a>"That is nothing,” he replied, “they haven’t + moved it.” + </p> + <p> + When we saw the three stones in the wall and measured their length and + height he said they were joined together. + </p> + <p> + He could find no joint and finally insisted that they were only thin slabs + fastened to the walls, and to this day he insists that he knows they are + nothing like what they are represented to be. He vowed not to speak of + them when he reached home for fear he would not be believed. + </p> + <p> + He always kept the hotel bills so that he could prove that he had been to + the places we visited. + </p> + <p> + “The ‘Doubter’ must be a veree great, what you call in + English, liar, at home,” said our fair German companion one day, + “if he thinks people not believe him without his hotel bills.” + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” after all was a source of amusement to us at odd + times, in spite of his high rank as a nuisance, and we finally concluded + that it was well to have him along on the same principle that the Romans + used to receive a victorious general with shouts of applause and triumphal + honors and at the same time kept a slave at his side to call him + opprobrious names and continually remind him that he was mortal. + </p> + <p> + The ancient Egyptian also set our party an example in the same way as they + used to put a skeleton in one of the chairs at a public or private + festivity so that the guests might remember what they were coming to. + </p> + <p> + We slept that night in an Arab house at Baalbek. Our beds were on divans + or couches. We were tended by Arab man-servants and maid-servants and were + bitten by Arab fleas. The rooms of every Arab’s house contain divans + that extend along the end furthest from the door and sometimes along one + of the sides. They consist usually of benches or frames not quite as high + as the seat of a chair and about three and a half feet wide and are + covered with mattresses that render them agreeable to sit or recline upon + We found them quite comfortable after our hard day’s travel, though + perhaps a trifle too hard for American natives. In the poorer houses these + divans are of the same material as the floor—solid earth—covered + with a mat of straw. + </p> + <p> + Most of the Arab houses are extremely dirty and abound in vermin. The one + we occupied was quite neat and well kept, and <span class="pagenum">274</span><a + name="link274" id="link274"></a>the dragoman who accompanied us from Stora + expressed surprise at our discovery of fleas. But we did not mind them as + we were too weary to be bothered about trifles, and fleas are familiar + acquaintances to a person who has travelled in Italy, Russia, and Turkey. + Travelling, like poverty, acquaints one with a great many varieties of + bed-fellows. + </p> + <p> + We were up long before day; we breakfasted by candle light, and before the + sun tipped the summits of the Lebanon range with golden color, we were on + horseback and away. Through the gray dawn we took the last look at the + tall columns of the Temple of the Sun standing as they have stood for + centuries and may stand for centuries to come. + </p> + <p> + Shall the edifices which we erect ever become like those of Baalbek, + shrouded in a veil of mystery well nigh impenetrable, and fill so little + place in the page of history that future ages shall not know who built + them and what was their purpose? + </p> + <p> + Little, very little, is known of Baalbek; her foundation and her founders + are unrevealed mysteries, and of her glory and progress and decline we + have only the most meagre information. That the city is very ancient there + can be no doubt; that her edifices are among the wonders of the world we + have the evidence before us. + </p> + <p> + We rode down the plain of Buka as we had ascended it the day before. A + little after eleven o’clock we flung ourselves or rather dropped + ungracefully from our saddles and greeted the swarthy Kalil who had come + out a short distance with the carriage to meet us. Kalil and the horses + soon took us to Stora where we dined and then packed ourselves in the + carriage to continue our journey to Damascus. We crossed the flat plain at + a gallop and then entered a long valley leading up the range which is over + against Lebanon. + </p> + <p> + This valley is known as the Wady Harir; then we cross a plain and after + leaving this we enter a narrow winding glen, the Wady il Kurn, or “Valley + of the Horn.” This pass is one of the wildest in the Anti-Lebanon; + it is three miles long and was once very dangerous on account of the + robbers that infested it. The sides are rough and but slightly wooded and + the bottom is evidently at certain seasons of the year the bed of a + torrent. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">275</span><a name="link275" id="link275"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0104" id="linkimage-0104"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0285.jpg" alt="0285 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0285.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">277</span><a name="link277" id="link277"></a>Night + came on and shrouded everything around us in blackness; there was an extra + touch of darkness to it as there was no moon and there were thick clouds + between us and the stars. We could see little more than what was revealed + by our lamps and that little soon became monotonous. We crossed the plain + of Dinas and entered the gorge of the Abana, the river which is the pride + of Damascus, and has always occupied a prominent place in her history. + </p> + <p> + “Are not Pharpar and Abana,” said Naaman, the leper, “rivers + of Damascus better than all the rivers of Syria?” + </p> + <p> + Following the Abana we at length beheld the lights of Damascus, and at + nine o’clock entered the city and were deposited at the door of the + only hotel it contains. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0105" id="linkimage-0105"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5287.jpg" alt="5287 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5287.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">278</span><a name="link278" id="link278"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0106" id="linkimage-0106"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0288.jpg" alt="0288 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0288.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX—DAMASCUS—THE GARDEN CITY OF THE EAST. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Dimitri and his hotel—Court-yards and fountain—How people + live in Damascus—Parlors, bed-rooms and boudoirs—A bet and its + decision—The “Doubter and his Donkey”—The Street + called “Straight”—Bab-Shurky—Spots famous in + history—Shaking hinds across a Street—Scene of St. Paul’s + conversion—The Window of escape—Tombs of Mohammed’s + Wives—The “Doubter” figuring on probabilities—An + unexpected upset—Visiting the lepers’ hospital—A + frightful spectacle—The Great Mosque—View from the Minaret—The + Bazaars and Curiosity Shops—Making a trade—A case of Fraud.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE hotel at + Damascus is kept by a Greek named Dimitri, who has been familiar with + Syria for a great many years, and was in his younger days a dragoman. + </p> + <p> + His house is spacious, and more comfortable than I had expected to find + it, and in appearance is the most Oriental of all the hotels I have seen + in the East. You enter by a low, narrow doorway, and passing a short + vestibule find yourself in a marble paved court open to the sky, and + possessing a fine fountain When I say a fine fountain, I mean that it is + so from an Oriental point of view—i. e., there is a broad tank, with + stone sides, where the water is kept constantly changing by means of a two + inch supply-pipe, and an equally large waste pipe. To the right of the + fountain there is a recess about twenty feet square, where are divans and + chairs in abundance. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the fountain on the opposite side of the court is the parlor or + saloon. It is entered by an ordinary door, and you find inside a marble + floor as long as the room is wide,—about six feet <span + class="pagenum">279</span><a name="link279" id="link279"></a>in width,—and + having a fountain in the centre. The rest of the apartment on each side of + the marble floor is elevated about two feet and has steps leading up to + it. + </p> + <p> + The spaces thus elevated are richly carpeted and have divans on three + sides. They have in Dimitri’s hotel a few chairs in front of the + divans; but these are rather out of place, and are only kept there out of + deference to the foreign patrons. The roof is high, and the highest part + of it all is in the centre. We have reason to know about it, as we got + into a discussion while waiting for dinner, and two of the party risked a + bottle of champagne on the result. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0107" id="linkimage-0107"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0289.jpg" alt="0289 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0289.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + One said the roof was thirty feet above the marble floor, and the other + thought it was twenty-nine and a half. The nearest was to win, and Dimitri + sent for a pole and ladders and we measured it. The result was twenty-nine + feet ten and one-quarter inches, and I lost the wine. + </p> + <p> + I have been thus particular in describing the court, fountain, and saloon + of Dimitri’s Hotel for the reason that it will answer for any + well-to-do house in Damascus, with the exception of the chairs, which + should not be introduced there. + </p> + <p> + “Take away the chairs,” said Dimitri, “and my house is + Ori<span class="pagenum">280</span><a name="link280" id="link280"></a>ental, + but with them here, it is not. The instant chairs are introduced the + Oriental character is gone.” + </p> + <p> + I should have added that his court contains several orange and other + tropical trees; on some of the former the oranges were ripening, and were + plucked and offered to us. + </p> + <p> + The height of the roof of the saloon may seem considerable, but we were + told that it is frequently ten or twelve feet more, and before leaving the + city I saw some parlors which had I think forty feet of distance between + floor and roof. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we took a guide and started out for the sights. + </p> + <p> + “The weather is fine to-day,” said the guide; “you had + better take donkeys, and see what we have to see of the outside of the + town. To-morrow it may rain, and we can then see the bazaars, mosques, and + houses.” + </p> + <p> + We took his advice and donkeys, and started at once. He led us through + crowded streets to the gates, or rather to one of the gates, and then we + proceeded to make a circuit of Damascus. + </p> + <p> + Our starting point was Bab-Shurkey or the East Gate It is a picturesque + piece of architecture somewhat dilapidated, but containing traces of its + former glory. Here was once a magnificent Roman portal with a central and + two side arches which were walled up more than eight hundred years ago. + This gate is at the end of the “street called Straight,” by + which St. Paul entered the city, and from the top of the gate one can look + along the street until it is lost in a confusion of buildings. It is not + straight as we use the word, but is enough so for Oriental notions. + </p> + <p> + In the Roman period, and down to the Mohammedan conquest, there was a wide + avenue where this street now is; it was about a hundred feet wide and was + divided by Corinthian columns into three parts corresponding to the three + arches of the gate. They have been distinctly traced in several + localities. As you look down there now you see a narrow lane with uneven + rows of buildings on either side; the projecting windows almost touch each + other, and in some localities they are less than a foot apart. + Hand-shaking and osculation would be easy across the streets, and + elopements and intrigues are facilitated by the proximity of opposite + dwellings. <span class="pagenum">281</span><a name="link281" id="link281"></a>We + went near the wall outside of the city, and were shown several of the + local curiosities. We passed a projecting tower of early Saracenic + masonry, and near it our attention was called to an old gateway, which has + been walled up more than 700 years. This is the reputed scene of Paul’s + escape from Damascus. + </p> + <p> + The window was shown until within the past twenty years, when some changes + in the wall removed it. + </p> + <p> + In front of the gate we were shown the tomb of George, the porter who + aided St. Paul in his escape, and was martyred in consequence. Our guide + was a Christian Arab, and spoke of the place with great veneration, as do + all the native Christians. Beyond this is the Christian cemetery, which + was desecrated by the Moslems at the time of the massacre of 1860. Some of + the tombs were opened and the bones were scattered about; afterward some + of those wounded in the massacre were thrown alive into the pit. The scene + of St. Paul’s conversion is located here. + </p> + <p> + Not far away is the foreign cemetery; among those buried there is the + accomplished historian, H. T. Buckle. + </p> + <p> + The guide called our attention to the houses upon the wall of the city; it + was from a house of this sort that Paul was let down in a basket, and one + can readily see that it was easy for Rahab, who dwelt upon the town wall + of Jericho, to let “down the spies” by a cord through the + window. On several occasions in time of war, these houses have been + removed, but they have speedily re-appeared on the return of peace. + </p> + <p> + The walls of the city were no doubt of some importance formerly, and are + still a sufficient defense against Bedouin cavalry, but they would be of + no consequence to-day. Modern artillery would make short work of them, and + there are places where a battery of ordinary field guns could destroy them + in a few hours. + </p> + <p> + The city has outgrown the walls in several localities, and it is said that + a third of the inhabitants are extra-mural. The population of Damascus is + estimated at about one hundred and fifty thousand. Twenty thousand of + these are Christians and six thousand Jews. The remainder are Moslems, and + many of them are of the most fanatical character. <span class="pagenum">282</span><a + name="link282" id="link282"></a>We halt at the Mohammedan cemetery of + Bab-es-Saghir, an area of undulating ground, covered with a forest of + tombstones, and little whitewashed mounds of brick, in shape resembling a + house roof. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0108" id="linkimage-0108"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0292.jpg" alt="0292 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0292.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + These are the graves, and each has a head stone with an inscription in + Arabic, and beside it, is a cavity for water, generally containing a green + branch of myrtle. Had we been there on a Friday we should have seen crowds + of Moslem women weeping over the graves of relatives or friends, and after + the ceremony had ended they would have fallen to chatting pleasantly, as + if their visit were not a matter of grief. We saw the tombs of three of + Mohammed’s wives, and of Fatimah, his grand daugh<span + class="pagenum">283</span><a name="link283" id="link283"></a>ter, and we + were shown other graves, and tombs containing the remains of Moslem + warriors, statesmen, and historians. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” did not believe that Mohammed’s wives were + buried there, and refused to dismount and enter the cemetery. When we + returned to the gate we found him prostrate in the dirt, and just rising + with the help of the donkey drivers. It seemed that his beast resented the + notion of standing patiently for a man to sit on him, and after making a + remonstrance in donkey fashion, he ended by turning a somersault that + unseated the “Doubter.” The latter jackass described a sort of + cruciform parabola and at the end of his gyrations found himself sitting + down lengthwise, and with his back uppermost. Several new constellations + and solar systems were flying around his excited skull and his doubts as + to the character of this planet were stronger than ever. + </p> + <p> + “I don’t believe,” said he, as soon as his mouth was + cleared of the dust that encumbered it, “I don’t believe that + there is anything around here worth seeing. We had better go back to the + hotel and stay there.” + </p> + <p> + “Nonsense,” replied one of us, “Damascus is the most + interesting city of the East, within our reach; one of the oldest cities + and one that has undergone very little change in two thousand years.” + </p> + <p> + “I know better than that,” said the “Doubter,” + “nobody believes this city is two thousand, or even one thousand + years old.” + </p> + <p> + I came to his help just then and told him he was right; that the city was + founded in 1811 by a colony of Arabs from New Jersey, and was never heard + of by the civilized world until December, 1847, when it was discovered by + an Englishman named Smith. Somehow my information did not please him, and + he was sullen all the rest of the day. + </p> + <p> + Later on I found what it was to be dropped from a donkey. I was + dismounting, and the beast evidently wanted me to be quick about it. Just + as I leaned forward to swing my right leg over, the donkey dropped his + head and shoulders and gave me a most beautiful fall. I went down among + other donkeys and in the dust of the street, but I flatter myself that I + did it gracefully. A dozen Arabs were standing around but not one of them + smiled while all my companions let themselves out into laughter. I told + <span class="pagenum">284</span><a name="link284" id="link284"></a>them it + was not polite to laugh at the unfortunate, but that didn’t appear + to check them. + </p> + <p> + We visited the house of Ananias, the High Priest, all the points connected + with St. Paul’s stay in Damascus, and then we went to the Mosques. + </p> + <p> + Before doing this it was necessary to visit the American Consul or Vice + Consul, and obtain a permit. The Consul is a native of the country, a + polite, affable gentleman, speaking English quite well, and showing a + desire to serve the citizens and the interests of the country he + represents. He lives in a fine house of recent construction; his house was + burned in the massacre of 1860, and he narrowly escaped assassination. He + received us in the style of the Orient, with coffee and pipes, and made us + welcome to Damascus. He sent at once for the desired permit and sent his + janissary to accompany us in our visit to the mosque. + </p> + <p> + Before going to the mosque we went to the site of the house of Naaman, the + leper; a leper-hospital now occupies the spot. And speaking of lepers, we + afterwards went to the leper-hospital and saw half a dozen of the victims + of this dreadful disease. Some were blind, some had the face, some the + arms, and some the legs, much swollen, and the face and hands of one were + covered with scales. Under the edges of these scales the flesh was raw and + inflamed, and we were told that some of the patients in the hospital were + masses of sores. + </p> + <p> + The Great Mosque occupies a quadrangle one hundred and sixty-three yards + long by one hundred and eight wide. Part of this quadrangle is a court + surrounded by cloisters resting on stone pillars; the rest of the space is + occupied by the mosque, which is four hundred and thirty-one feet by one + hundred and eight. We removed our boots and put on our slippers before + entering the building. The interior is divided into three aisles by two + ranges of Corinthian pillars, which support round arches. In the centre is + a dome one hundred and twenty feet high by fifty feet in diameter, and + standing on four massive pillars. The floor is of stone and covered with + soft carpets, and here and there on the carpets, were the Moslems at their + prayers. Our attention was particularly attracted by one devout old Jew, + who wore a phylactery upon his forehead and who appeared to be utterly + uncon<span class="pagenum">285</span><a name="link285" id="link285"></a>scious + of what was going on around him. On the eastern side of the mosque there + is an elaborately carved Keebbek, or shrine, and below it is a cave, in + which the head of John the Baptist is said to be preserved in a casket of + gold. + </p> + <p> + There are three minarets to the mosque; the most important is the minaret + of Jesus, at the south-eastern angle, and two hundred and fifty feet high. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0109" id="linkimage-0109"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0295.jpg" alt="0295 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0295.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + There is a Moslem tradition that when Jesus comes to judge the world, He + will descend on this minaret, enter the mosque, and call before him men of + every sect and nationality. We climbed to the top of one of the minarets, + and obtained from it a fine view of the city. + </p> + <p> + Mosques, bazaars, houses, mud walls and flat roofs, remains of Roman and + Saracenic columns, streets and court-yards, formed the scene before us. + Further off were the gardens, the olive and orange groves of Damascus; the + Abana sparkled in the sunlight <span class="pagenum">286</span><a + name="link286" id="link286"></a>like a band or thread of silver; the + barren hills beyond formed a sharp contrast to the fertile plain; and away + in the distance we could distinguish a belt of desert. Another mosque, + whose minaret is covered with blue encaustic tiles, attracted our + attention, and we longed to visit it. To our disappointment we learned + that admission was then impossible. + </p> + <p> + A visitor to Damascus should take advantage of the first clear afternoon, + to proceed at a late hour to the Salahiyeh hills, so as to look upon the + city at sunset. The road is pleasant and picturesque, and leads gently + upward beyond a village that lies between the hill and the city. An hour’s + ride brings one to a point where the whole plain is spread out like a map + at the spectator’s feet. + </p> + <p> + Embowered in gardens and tinted by the lights that varied every moment, + Damascus looked to us as much like an earthly paradise as anything in the + Orient. Away to the east was the range of Anti-Lebanon; to the north was + the plain, with a strip of desert, and to the south the plain stretched + away and broke into the hills in the distance. We could trace out the + shape of the city, and follow with the eye the direction of its principal + streets; the tall minarets and bright domes of the mosques formed salient + features of the landscapes, and altogether the scene was thoroughly + Oriental. It was from this hill that Mohammed looked and pronounced + Damascus the most beautiful city of the world, and promised the most + dutiful of his attendants, that they should be appointed to dwell there. + </p> + <p> + Thus we looked upon the city which is doubtless the oldest in the world. + More than three thousand years it has flourished; more than thirty + centuries it has stood there a city—the beautiful city of the plain. + Nations have appeared and vanished. Kingdoms and empires and republics + have risen and fallen, but Damascus has stood unchanged. Thrones have + crumbled, dynasties have come and gone. Statesmen and poets and scholars + have lived their brief period of existence, brief and insignificant. In + the centuries that have rolled over Damascus Saracen, Roman, Moslem, and + Christian have besieged the city; twice it has been the center of empires, + and many times it has been the seat of power that was felt far away. + Though never formally <span class="pagenum">287</span><a name="link287" + id="link287"></a>occupied by Christians, it was one of the early centers + of Christianity, and for nearly three centuries this was the predominant + religion. And later in its history the armies of the Mohammedan empire + went forth from Damascus, spreading the religion of the Prophet to Spain + on the one hand, and to Hindos-tan on the other. Damascus was then the + seat of an empire the greatest on the globe, extending from the Himalayas + to the Atlantic. Wealth was poured into her coffers, and she became the + richest as well as the mightiest capital. Though she has declined she has + not fallen, and presents to-day a picture of serene and well-deserved + prosperity. + </p> + <p> + Damascus without the bazaars would be Hamlet without Hamlet. Here you see + the Orient in its perfection. Instead of shops scattered through the city, + as in the West, all trades, or rather all the persons in one trade, are + brought together. The bazaars of Damascus have had a world-wide celebrity + for centuries, and there are none in the East better than they. You can + buy there anything you want, from a. slave to a cigarette, and from a + sewing needle to a <i>parure</i> of diamonds. You can wander for hours and + days in the bazaars; in the slipper bazaar, the tobacco bazaar, the seed + bazaar, the mercers’ bazaar, the tailors’ bazaar, the clog + bazaar, the silversmiths’ bazaar, the spice bazaar, the book bazaar, + the old clo’ bazaar, the iron bazaar, the pipe bazaar, and other + bazaars to the number of a dozen or more. + </p> + <p> + There is a general similarity in the bazaars, so far as the externals are + concerned; the shops are little pens, from four or six to ten feet square, + where the merchant sits or squats on the floor, and the customer sits on + the little bench in front. The front of the shop is entirely open during + the day; it can be shut at night, but the locks by which it is held are of + a very primitive and very flimsy pattern. If the owner wishes to go away + in the day time he spreads a net in front during his absence, and this is + his card to say he is “out.” The merchant does not press you + to buy, and he generally seems not to care whether you buy or not. + </p> + <p> + In the slipper bazaar you pass shop after shop where Oriental slippers of + all patterns and values are sold; in the tailors’ bazaar you find + shop after shop where tailors are at work upon Oriental garments, and so + you go on through one bazaar after another. + </p> + <p> + A few articles for sale, such as ear and nose drops, rings and brooches, + generally contained in a locked show-case, a foot square, and the same in + height; the shop-keepers exhibited their goods, but did not press them for + sale; many of them stopped work to stare at us, while others stuck to + their business with Oriental indifference. A small anvil, a few hammers, + pliers and rollers, and a small fire of charcoal, kept in flame by a + bellows of goat-skin comprise the whole outfit of a workman. The entire + arrangement could be stowed in a good-sized hat.<span class="pagenum">288</span><a + name="link288" id="link288"></a>Part of the street called Straight is + occupied by bazaars, and there is a network of them on both sides of it. + </p> + <p> + In the silversmith’s bazaar each man occupies a space about six feet + square, in a sort of large hall, with low roof and many supporting + pillars; this space contains both work-room and salesroom. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0110" id="linkimage-0110"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0298.jpg" alt="0298 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0298.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">289</span><a name="link289" id="link289"></a>In the + arms bazaar there are all sorts of odds and ends of cimetars, matchlocks, + sabres, pistols, lances, and the like. The famous Damascus blades were + offered to us, but they were not of that fine temper that permits you to + tie one of them into a knot, and so we did not buy. An antiquarian would + be at home in this bazaar, and find many things to suit his fancy. + </p> + <p> + We went to the silk bazaar, as one of our party wanted to buy some + kerchiefs, and after looking around we went out of the bazaar into a Khan, + or caravansary. This was a court, with a fountain in the center. A double + story of little rooms opened into this court, and on the upper floor was a + silk merchant we wished to find. + </p> + <p> + The bargaining was conducted <i>a l’Orient</i>. We had coffee and + cigarettes, and then the silks were shown. + </p> + <p> + The merchant wanted twenty francs, the buyer would give six. + </p> + <p> + Neither could do better, but they slowly unbent so that at the end of half + an hour the prices were fifteen selling and ten buying. Then we bade the + merchant good-bye, and departed. + </p> + <p> + We returned in an hour, and then the negotiations went on; the seller + stuck at thirteen, and the buyer at eleven and a half, and finally, after + at least an hour of talk and the assurance of the merchant that the + kerchiefs cost him more than that, a bargain was closed at twelve. + </p> + <p> + The <i>coup de grace</i> was given when the buyer showed the money in + bright Napoleons, and rattled them before the other’s eyes. + </p> + <p> + The silk merchant wanted to sell something more, and sent his partner or + attendant to bring a piece of goods from another room. The piece came, the + wrapping was removed, and behold! there appeared on the end of the roll a + ticket with the name of a French factory at Lyons. + </p> + <p> + Much of the silk sold in Constantinople, Cairo, Damascus, Aleppo, and + Bagdad, as Oriental, is from French looms. I have been repeatedly told so + by the merchants, and also by an agent of one of the houses especially + devoted to Oriental fabrics. It requires an expert to distinguish the + native silks from the French ones. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">290</span><a name="link290" id="link290"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0111" id="linkimage-0111"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0300.jpg" alt="0300 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0300.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI—SYRIAN LIFE—DEALERS IN HUMAN FLESH—WE TRY + “ZE LUXURIES OF ZE BATH.” + </h2> + <p> + <i>In the Slave-Market—A Dealer in Human Flesh—A Stealthy + Trade—Examining Female Slaves—Serfdom in Syria—Inside + Views of a Syrian Household—Jewish Houses—An Oriental Song—Smoking + with the Ladies—Syrian Customs—A famous Arab Chief—Visiting + Abd-el-Kader’s house—The City of the Caliphs—Taking a + Bath—Mohammed and his Trowsers—A new Species of Cushion—The + Bath-house—Disrobing—Securing our Valuables—Moslem + Honesty—Sitting down in a Hot Place—Gustave’s + Misadventure—Undergoing a Shampoo—Rubbed to a Jelly—The + Couch of Repose—A Delicious Sensation—“All ze luxuries.”</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>HILE we were + walking through the bazaars, the guide casually pointed out the + slave-market, and of course we entered. Our way led into a court yard, + with a fountain in the center and a mosque at our side; off at one corner + was the entrance to the slave-dealers’ apartments. + </p> + <p> + The merchant, a mild-mannered Moslem, was in the court yard, and had with + him a black boy, a eunuch, for which he wanted thirty pounds. We followed + the dealer up a narrow staircase to a locked room which he opened. + </p> + <p> + Four negro women were there, two sitting and two lying upon the floor, + which was spread with rugs and blankets; the youngest may have been + sixteen and the oldest thirty. The dealer said something in Arabic, + whereupon the women rose and stood in a row facing us, where they were + joined by the boy. All kept their heads turned away, but now and then + darted furtive glances at us. We did not buy, and after giving the dealer + a couple of francs as “backsheesh,” we returned to the street. + <span class="pagenum">291</span><a name="link291" id="link291"></a>In + Damascus the slave trade is open. In Cairo and Constantinople it + flourishes by stealth. In neither of the last two cities are strangers + permitted to see it, but in Damascus there is no such concealment. The + trade is not extensive, and is mainly confined to supplying servants for + private houses. The traffic in beautiful women for the harems is nearly a + thing of the past, and so is the general trade in slaves for heavy labor + in large numbers. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0112" id="linkimage-0112"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0301.jpg" alt="0301 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0301.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + As far as I can learn, there was never a slave trade and slave employment + half as extensive in the Orient as that which flourished in the United + States less than twenty years ago. + </p> + <p> + Slaves in the East are a family possession, and are not reckoned as a + specific item of wealth. + </p> + <p> + We had been told not to fail to see some of the private houses of + Damascus, as they are specially famous for their elegance. To wander about + the city you would not suppose that it has many rich interiors, but you + find on investigation that mud walls frequently lead to something rich + inside. Judge not by appearances in Damascus. We entered some of the + Moslem court yards, but were not allowed to see the inside of the houses. + We saw some Christian houses richly adorned and decorated, but they will + all come within the general description at the beginning of the preceding + chapter. <span class="pagenum">292</span><a name="link292" id="link292"></a>There + were many luxurious houses of Christian natives destroyed in 1860, and few + of these have been built. The Christian quarter still bears the marks of + Moslem hate, in the large areas that lie in ruins. The whole Christian + quarter was burned, and about two thousand five hundred Christians were + massacred. + </p> + <p> + Despite the protection now extended to them by foreign powers, the + Christians of Damascus do not feel safe, and are constantly dreading a + fresh outbreak of hostilities. + </p> + <p> + Two Jewish houses that we visited had evidently cost a great deal of + money; the dining room of one is finished in marble carving around the + entire wall, and the cost of this one apartment was said to be ten + thousand pounds. + </p> + <p> + In one of the Jewish houses, the hostess invited us to seats in the room + where herself, the ladies of her household, and a couple of visitors were + squatted on divans and smoking nargilehs. They were much surprised that + the lady of our party didn’t smoke, and they wanted to stain her + nails with henna and paint her eye-lashes. + </p> + <p> + One of the lady visitors was a cantatrice, the Patti or Nilsson of + Damascus, and at the request of the hostess we were favored with a song. + Her voice was a sort of rough falsetto, and there was little melody or + rhythm about the song when considered from a European point of view. How + tastes differ! Such a song would not be listened to in Europe or America, + except from curiosity; and the song of Patti would, doubtless, be of no + consequence in Damascus. Our guide told us that this lady has sung herself + rich, and that she frequently receives twenty or thirty pounds for an + evening’s entertainment. + </p> + <p> + We passed a very pleasant hour in this house, and shall long hold it in + remembrance. I don’t believe we should have enjoyed it half as well + if the master had been at home, as I have a strong suspicion that we + should not have been invited to drink coffee and smoke with the ladies. + </p> + <p> + We wished to visit the house of the famous Abd-el-Kader, but found it + impossible. Twenty years ago, this man filled a prominent place in + history, but he is now nearly forgotten. He was born in 1807 in Algeria; + he was descended from a long line of Emirs; his father was noted for the + wisdom and liberality of his rule over the Algerian province of Oran. + <span class="pagenum">293</span><a name="link293" id="link293"></a>When + the French occupied Algiers, Abd-el-Kader was one of their fiercest + opponents, and from 1831 to 1847 he maintained an active warfare, + interrupted by a few brief truces. In the last mentioned year he was + captured and taken to France, but was soon released, on condition that he + should not return to Algiers, nor take arms in any way against the French. + The terms of the contract have been faithfully kept, and he has ever since + been on the best terms with France. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0113" id="linkimage-0113"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8303.jpg" alt="8303 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8303.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He resided for some years in Constantinople, and then moved to Damascus, + where he spends the greater part of his time. He continues to wear the + Algerian dress, and his dark hair and beard make a striking contrast to + his snow-white garments. + </p> + <p> + Those who have met him say that he is a thoroughly courteous and highly + polished gentleman, and in looks and bearing he is “every inch a + king.” + </p> + <p> + Damascus is the most thoroughly Oriental in character of all the cities + now in easy reach of the traveler. Constantinople and Cairo have each a + large foreign population, and can number their Franks by thousands, but + Damascus has less than a hundred of them, including missionaries, + merchants, and nondescript Occidentals, who have wandered there by chance. + The houses, bazaars, mosques and baths are to-day what they were five + hundred years ago, and the Moslem is so averse to progress, that there is + no great probability of any important change for five hundred years to + come. + </p> + <p> + As you wander through the streets of Damascus or stand in <span + class="pagenum">294</span><a name="link294" id="link294"></a>its crowded + market places, you are carried back to the days of Haroun-al-Raschid, and + gaze upon the pictures that became familiar to you in your boyhood perusal + of the Arabian Nights. You forget the Present, you are living in the Past, + and, full of bewilderment, you scan the title page of your note-book to + make sure that you really tread the earth in the latter half of the + nineteenth century. + </p> + <p> + I had missed the Turkish bath in Constantinople; I could have taken one + any morning and therefore postponed it until too late. In Damascus I + determined not to be so negligent, and accordingly arranged to try the + Oriental bath on the second day of my stay. Gustave agreed to go with me, + and we consulted our guide about the time and place. Imagine our + astonishment when Mohammed informed us: + </p> + <p> + “You must get up at five o’clock in ze morning and I takes you + to ze bestest bath in Damas. Ze bath shut up at seven o’clock, and + you get no bath then afterwards.” + </p> + <p> + This was early rising for us, but when you are in Damascus you must follow + the custom of the Damascus blades. If, as the proverb says, the early + child has the worms, there must be an immense demand in Damascus for + vermifuge and that sort of thing. We couldn’t do any sight-seeing in + the evening, for the reason that there was no sight-seeing to see. Shops, + <i>cafés</i>, and all other public establishments, were closed at sunset + or a little later; there were no street lamps, and the facilities for + getting about were very limited. We stayed in the hotel in the evening, + and went to bed at an hour we would have been ashamed to acknowledge at + home. The people that went to bed at such an inhumanly early hour must + rise in good season. They do this not from any expectation of health or + wealth, as promised by the old couplet, but simply for the reason that + they couldn’t endure to be in bed more than eight or nine hours at a + stretch; besides an Arab couch is not the most comfortable thing in the + world, and doubtless has something to do with the matutinal habits of the + people. + </p> + <p> + It is said that the eastern shore of the Mediterranean is called the + Levant, for the reason that the sun rises there. The natives rise before + the sun, and to them rather than to the glorious orb of day is due the + name by which the region is known. <span class="pagenum">295</span><a + name="link295" id="link295"></a>Promptly at five in the morning Mohammed + was at our door and we rose. Day was just beginning to dawn when we + emerged from the hotel and started along the narrow streets that led to + the bath-house. We kept close to Mohammed’s heels, and narrowly + missed stepping on the seat of his trowsers whenever he slackened his + pace. The fellow’s “breeks” were about the baggiest pair + it was ever my lot to gaze upon; he must have bought them when cloth was + cheap and the merchant willing to measure him with a fox-skin without + counting the tail as anything. When he stood up, the ample part of his + trowsers just missed the ground by an inch or so, and when he walked the + depending mass of cloth swung unsteadily like a pendulum that has been on + a spree. When he went over any little inequality the garment dragged, and + sometimes it caught and held the wearer fast. When he sat down he gathered + the trowsers under him and formed a sort of cushion that was comfortable + to rest upon. It was then that we realized the design of the artist, and + admitted that the inventor of the Turkish trowsers knew what he was about. + </p> + <p> + A good many people were astir, and more than once we caromed against the + plodding Orientals and caused them to utter what sounded like imprecations + on the Christian dogs that had ventured to affront them. At length + Mohammed brought himself to a halt and said: + </p> + <p> + “Here, gentlemen, is ze bath; ze best good bath in Damas. You bathe + here so good as never was afterward before.” + </p> + <p> + The building was a low one, of stone, with a roof in which two or three + domes were set like enormous kettles inverted. Light was admitted through + circular windows, or bull’s-eyes, like the cabin windows of an ocean + steamer, let into the dome at intervals none too frequent. In the + vestibule we encountered a sort of door-keeper, to whom Mohammed said + something in the language of the country, and then passed on to the first + room of the bath. + </p> + <p> + “Here is ze bain beautiful. You shall know soon how he is good.” + </p> + <p> + With that Mohammed selected a couple of attendants whose entire wardrobe + was not worth fifty cents each. It consisted of <span class="pagenum">296</span><a + name="link296" id="link296"></a>a small tuft of hair on the crown of the + head, the rest of the skull being closely shaven, and of a piece of cloth + about the loins. + </p> + <p> + I fell to the lot of a dark-skinned gentleman any way from twenty-five to + forty years old, and with a muscular development about the arms that would + have done honor to a pugilist. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0114" id="linkimage-0114"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9306.jpg" alt="9306 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9306.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He assisted me to disrobe, but was not very expert about it, being + unfamiliar with the wardrobe of the Occident. + </p> + <p> + “You will have ze bain avec all ze luxuries,—ze café, ze + chibook, ze everyting,” said Mohammed in a tone of inquiry. “Certainly, + mon cher descendant of the Prophet,” I replied, “and you will + do us the honor to go through the <i>moulin</i> with us. Order baths for + three, and you yourself disencumber your corporosity of those habiliments + and show us how to Orientalize.” + </p> + <p> + “Pardon, gentlemens, but I no speak German; only English, French, + Italian, Greek, Turk, and Arab. I no understand what you says. Speak ze + English, please.” + </p> + <p> + “Well then; peel—strip off your clothes and go in.” + </p> + <p> + “Ah! zat is bono,” replied Mohammed, and beckoning to a third + attendant, he was soon in the costume of the Apollo Belvidere. My + attendant, as soon as he had stripped me, folded my clothes into a bundle, + tied them up in a small sheet, and laid the package away on a divan at the + side of the room. + </p> + <p> + “You will have all ze luxuries.” + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">297</span><a name="link297" id="link297"></a>I asked + Mohammed if everything was safe, as we had our watches and some, though + not much, money. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0115" id="linkimage-0115"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8307.jpg" alt="8307 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8307.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We had given our letters of credit and the most of our coin to our friends + before retiring the night previous, as we thought some accident might + happen if we left things around loose in the bath-house. + </p> + <p> + “All tings is safe here,” explained our guide. “Zare is + no Christians but you in ze house. All ze rest is Moslem, and all tings is + safe.” + </p> + <p> + Thus reassured, we submitted to the situation. + </p> + <p> + When they had removed our clothing they dressed us in towels around the + loins and wrapped wet cloths about our heads. Then they mounted us on + wooden clogs that were difficult to keep in place, and which I kicked off + in the next room whither my attendant led me. The place was gloomy and + full of steam, and the temperature anything but agreeable. It was heated + by a furnace under the floor, and the heat was carried around and made + even by means of pipes and flues in the wall. While we stood uncertain + what to do, two or three buckets of water were dashed over us. I was not + expecting it, and the shock of the water striking me in the breast was + sufficient to knock me down, I fell against Mohammed and he against his + attendant, and we <span class="pagenum">298</span><a name="link298" + id="link298"></a>all went into a heap. Mohammed was fat and rather flabby, + so that he broke my fall in the most satisfactory manner. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0116" id="linkimage-0116"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9308.jpg" alt="9308 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9308.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + It hurt him somewhat, but that made no difference, as we hired him by the + day and paid his expenses. + </p> + <p> + In one corner a lot of fellows were sitting on the floor and softening the + asperities of the bath by singing an Arab air. Mohammed said they were + soldiers, but there wasn’t one of them with any more uniform than we + wore, and certainly ours was very scanty. We looked and listened, + perspired and waited, and just as the place began to seem comfortable the + attendants led us into another room compared to which the first was a + refrigerator. It was frightfully hot and took away the breath, and if I + had considered myself a free moral agent I would have backed out. + </p> + <p> + Gustave thought he would sit down, and seeing a block of marble through + the steamy atmosphere, he went for it. Before the attendant knew what he + was about Gustave had taken a seat. + </p> + <p> + My duty to the moral and religious public requires the omission of the + remarks of my friend immediately subsequent to his assumption of the + sitting posture. They were made in German, English, and French, and were + brief and emphatic. <span class="pagenum">299</span><a name="link299" + id="link299"></a>What he supposed to be a block of stone proved to be a + marble tub filled with water. The temperature was sufficiently elevated to + cause him to howl with pain, but it did no real damage. + </p> + <p> + We squatted in a group on the floor after lifting Gustave from his tub, + and there we sat puffing and perspiring for some ten minutes or more. Then + my attendant laid me on a stone bench and put me through what is called + the “shampoo.” He squeezed, and rubbed and pulled and pounded + till I was as limp as a boned turkey and possessed as much consistency as + a jelly fish. I expected to spread out and run over the sides of the bench + and I took a glance downward to see if there was danger of running off + through the waste pipes. I called faintly to Mohammed, and heard a husky + “Monsieur” in response. + </p> + <p> + “Have the goodness,” I said, “to ask this gentleman to + put me in a sack if he wants to rub me any more. Any sack with small + meshes will do, but I want it tight enough to keep me together. + </p> + <p> + “And Mohammed,” I added, “if there is a rolling mill or + a wire-drawing establishment handy he could facilitate matters by running + me through it, and then”— + </p> + <p> + A bucket of hot water was poured over me, and some of it entering my mouth + put an end to my appeals for mercy. I was soon let off and taken into the + first room, where several buckets of water each cooler than its + predecessor were thrown over me. Then I was wiped dry, and a cool dry + turban was wrapped around my head, and I was clothed in a white garment, + and laid away on a divan. Blankets were wrapped around me, and coffee and + a chibook were brought. Gustave was similarly mummified and placed near + me, and Mohammed was stowed away on the opposite side of the room. We + reclined there smoking and sipping coffee, sipping coffee and smoking, + talking and drowsing, drowsing and talking, for nearly an hour. Coffee was + never more delicious than then, and I solemnly aver that I never had more + enjoyment of a pipe. The long stem of the chibook allows the smoke to cool + before it reaches the mouth, and there was a delicate flavor to the + tobacco that adapted it to the listless condition of mind and limp + condition of body which follows the bath. + </p> + <p> + We dressed, paid our “backsheesh,” and departed happy in mind + and body over “ze bestest good bath in Damas.” + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">300</span><a name="link300" id="link300"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0117" id="linkimage-0117"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0310.jpg" alt="0310 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0310.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII—TRAVELING IN A CARAVAN—SIGHTS ON THE WAY. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Turning our faces eastward—The land of the Sun—Palmyra, + Bagdad, and Babylon—The desert in summer and winter—A + dangerous road—The Robbers of the Wilderness—Ruins in the + Desert—A city of wonders—The haunts of the Bedouins—Engaging + an escort—The start for Palmyra—On a Dromedary’s back—The + environs of Damascus—A bed on the sand—“Everyone to his + taste”—A knavish Governor—Winking at Robbery—In + the Desert—On the great caravan track—Caravansaries, what are + they?—The high road to India—An Arab fountain.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">H</span>OW I longed, when + at Damascus, to push further into Asia. Before me lay the land of the + Arabian nights—the valley of the Euphrates and of the Tigris; beyond + the horizon my imagination pictured the battlemented walls of Bagdad, her + white domes and arrowy minarets shining among the waving palms. + </p> + <p> + I walked her streets once trodden by the feet of Haroun-al-Raschid and + made familiar in the stories that were written in his time and—if we + may believe our tradition—for his entertainment.. I fancied myself + upon the site of Babylon or of Nineveh, and amid the crumbled ruins of + those once powerful cities that represented the grandeur and greatness of + the ancient East. + </p> + <p> + I followed the story of Xenophon in the retreat of the Ten Thousand, and + stood upon the ground where Alexander marched to the glory that made him + The Great. I was upon the threshold—yes, I had passed the portals—of + that part of the East which has suffered least from the progress and + enterprise of the Occident. With longing eyes I looked beyond the rising + sun and wished, oh, how I wished, that I might go on and on till I should + <span class="pagenum">301</span><a name="link301" id="link301"></a>tread + the soil of Ormuz or of Ind, and feel upon my brow the spice-laden breezes + of fair Cathay. + </p> + <p> + But fate was inexorable and many things conspired to prevent my further + progress. We had arranged to keep together till we reached Egypt; the rest + of the party were pressed for time and had determined upon Damascus as the + Ultima Thule of their journey. The season was not favorable for an + overland excursion as we might be caught in winter storms in the desert, + and furthermore the robbers were more dangerous then than in the summer. + From Damascus it is customary to travel with a caravan under a heavy + escort, and there would be no caravan for several months. The authorities + will sometimes give an escort and be responsible for the safety of the + traveller, but such an outfit costs heavily and requires a very long + purse. Arrangements can be made to ride with the fortnightly mail from + Damascus to Bagdad, but there are various objections to this mode of + journeying. + </p> + <p> + I thought over all the obstacles in my way and concluded that it was best + to keep with our party and go on to Palestine and Egypt. Among the reasons + which impelled me to this decision was the fact that I had neither time + nor money enough to go farther East, and besides I should be cut off from + the society of the “Doubter.” I might get along without money + by setting up as a dervish and begging my way, but could existence be + possible without our skeptic? Consequently I <i>must</i> go to Egypt. + </p> + <p> + Even Palmyra had to be given up, and, sighing, I turned my face to the + west. But I fell in with a French traveller, who had come overland from + Bagdad and spent a day at Palmyra, and I listened with boyish interest to + his account of what he saw there. + </p> + <p> + It is no small matter to reach Palmyra, for the reason that it stands in + the midst of desolate wastes, which are the possession or at all events + the “backsheeshing” ground of the most lawless of the Bedouin + Arabs They have no conscientious scruples about robbery; the only point in + their favor is that they are averse to shedding blood, and unless he + offers resistance, the traveller can feel as certain about saving his life + as he is of losing his property. They may strip him of everything and + leave him naked, on foot, and without food or drink in the middle of the + desert, but they have qualms of conscience about murder, though <span + class="pagenum">302</span><a name="link302" id="link302"></a>quite willing + their victim should starve or roast to death. Those who assert that the + Bedouins are heartless and cruel, should take | note of the above fact, + and make an ample apology if they have hitherto said anything + uncomplimentary about these plundering blackguards. + </p> + <p> + It is absolutely necessary to have an escort in going to Palmyra, and one + can be found among the Bedouin sheiks, loafing around Damascus. Under + their convoy the traveller can consider himself secure; they are pretty + honorable in this respect, and after getting a heavy “backsheesh” + for safe conduct, they carry out their contracts, though they expect an + additional “backsheesh” on their return and the delivery of + the traveller to himself, in good order and condition. It is better to + leave money and valuables in Damascus, taking only enough coin along to + pay trifling expenses, and leaving the compensation of escort and dragoman + at the banker’s or consulate. If you are going overland to Bagdad, + carry your money in drafts and circular notes, and not in gold. The + Bedouin has a sharp eye for money, and much coin is sure to attract it. + </p> + <p> + The Palmyra journey should be made with camels or dromedaries, for the + reason that there are long stretches without water. Horses may be ridden, + but there must be one or more camels at any rate to carry water for them. + The sheiks always prefer to take no horses, as they can thereby make the + journey more quickly, and consequently cheaper. + </p> + <p> + Well, let us suppose we are going to Palmyra. We have completed all our + arrangements, agreed upon the price to be paid, and how to pay it, have + arrayed ourselves in Oriental garments, mounted our dromedaries, and filed + out of the city. There may be a difficulty in obtaining a sufficient + number of dromedaries for the start, and in that case we ride horses to + Kuryetien, about! two days’ journey from Damascus. There the sheik + will have the necessary animals assembled and waiting our arrival. + </p> + <p> + We strike away to the northeastward, going at first along a paved road and + among the groves and gardens for which the country around Damascus is + famous. We meet crowds of people on their way to town, and accompanied by + camels and donkeys: bearing the produce of the farms. In some seasons of + the year <span class="pagenum">303</span><a name="link303" id="link303"></a>we + will meet long strings of camels, which have come from Bagdad, laden with + dates, silks, leather goods, and other merchandise from that city; there + may be dozens of these in a single party, and sometimes there may be + hundreds of them. The drivers are brown, and not over clean; water has + been a scarce article among them, and the rivers of Damascus are to their + eyes a most welcome sight. One would think that the privations of the + desert would inspire no great love for the arid waste, and yet these wild + Arabs are so attached to it that they make their stay in the city as brief + as possible, and the moment their business is ended they hasten back to + their wanderings in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + “Give me a pillow of snow,” said a Laplander, breathing his + last in a Southern clime, “and I shall die happy.” + </p> + <p> + “Give me my bed of sand in the desert,” says the Bedouin Arab, + “and I shall sleep in peace.” + </p> + <p> + Every man to his own liking. Tastes are different all the world over. + </p> + <p> + Ten or twelve miles from Damascus, we leave the groves and shady gardens, + and emerge upon a plain irrigated by the waters of the Barada. The plain + is cultivated, though generally destitute of arboreal productions, and + here and there are the little clumps of trees where the houses of the + farmers are embowered. We passed some villages in the groves; we see a + little hamlet on the plain to our right, but evidently we were not likely + to find a dense population. Now we leave the plain and ascend a some-what + rugged path along a barren and rounded mountain which attains an elevation + of nearly two thousand feet above the valley of the Barada. In an hour or + so we reach the pass, and at the ruin of an old caravansary we look down + upon a plain which stretches away like an ocean and fills the eastern + horizon. + </p> + <p> + Five villages are in sight; they are the homes of the people that + cultivate portions of this plain. Wheat and barley are the principal + products of the plain, and they find a market in Damascus. The inhabitants + are peaceable, but their frequent encounters with Bedouin plunderers have + made them acquainted with the use of weapons, and give them a rather + warlike appearance. They dress much like the Bedouins, and a stranger + finds it difficult to distinguish one from the other. <span class="pagenum">304</span><a + name="link304" id="link304"></a>The first night of the journey is usually + spent at Jerud, a large village, which is the capital of the province and + the dwelling place of a Turkish <i>agha</i> or petty governor. He has a + company of cavalry at his command to resist the Bedouin Arabs, and not + unfrequently has occasion to use them. It is hinted that he sometimes + shuts his eyes while a foray is in progress, and begins the pursuit when + the plunderers have reached a secure distance. Of course the robbers are + expected to do the square thing under such circumstances, and make an + honorable division of the spoils. But we should not listen to such + calumnies, as we expect to stop over night in the governor’s house, + and as long as we are under his roof we receive every hospitality. The + assemblage is a mixed one, as there are Arabs from half-a-dozen tribes + spending the night there, and we are expected to show no haughtiness in + any way. The man who goes around with his nose in the air will run the + risk of a snub from some of his fellow-guests. + </p> + <p> + Out of Jerud we go in the morning at a pretty early hour, and very soon we + are in the Desert. We have left the fertile country behind us, and before + and around we have the treeless and desolate waste. We are in a wide + valley bounded by bleak and barren hills whose sides present an unvarying + panorama of grey rocks and earth. The ground is not sandy, but is covered + with fragments of limestone and flint, and now and then we see a little + tuft of coarse grass struggling to maintain an existence, and evidently + doubtful about keeping it up. + </p> + <p> + Birds and beasts are rare; in fact there is no inducement for them to stay + there. When speaking of birds in such a locality, I am reminded of the + story of a traveller at an unpromising place somewhere in Utah of Nevada. + He entered the diningroom of the only hotel and asked for breakfast. + </p> + <p> + “Can give you beefsteak, fried ham, and curlew,” said the + landlord, whose beard resembled an inverted sage-bush, and whose belt + revealed a bowie-knife and revolver. And he added, “The curlew is + very good.” + </p> + <p> + “What is curlew?” said the wayfarer. + </p> + <p> + “It is a bird that we shoot round here.” + </p> + <p> + “Has it got any wings?” + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">305</span><a name="link305" id="link305"></a>"And + can it fly?” + </p> + <p> + “You <i>bet</i> it can fly!” + </p> + <p> + “Then bring me some beefsteak,” said the traveller, + emphatically. “I want nothing to do with a bird that would stay in + this miserable country when he could fly away from it. No curlew in mine, + if you please.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0118" id="linkimage-0118"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8315.jpg" alt="8315 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8315.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Three or four miles from Jerud we pass a village where there is a + fountain, and then for nearly thirty miles the road follows the desert + valley as before. + </p> + <p> + A hot sky above, bleak mountains on either hand, before us an undulating + plain, shut in by these mountains, and beneath our feet the gravelly, + flinty, verdureless soil, and our caravan slowly winding onward, form the + scene presented to our eyes. Can we believe that this route has had an + existence for centuries? + </p> + <p> + Thousands and thousands of years—history does not tell us for how + long—this way has been trodden by the feet of patient camels and + less patient men. It was the caravan route from Damascus to the opulent + East. Ages and ages ago began and flourished a commerce now greatly + decayed; as we look from the backs of our beasts of burden we see here and + there the ruins of castles and caravansaries which once formed the halting + places of the merchants when night overtook them, protected them against + robbers, and in turn, perhaps, protected the robbers and sent out + predatory bands for purposes of plunder. Once this was the great road to + India and Far Cathay, long before the sea routes were known, and when + navigation was in its most primitive state. Steam and sail and the mariner’s + <span class="pagenum">306</span><a name="link306" id="link306"></a>compass + have laid a destroying hand on the caravan traffic, and in place of the + myriad trains of camels that once moved along this mountain-girdled valley + we find now but a comparatively thin thread of commerce. The world is a + world of progress. + </p> + <p> + We reach Kuryetein, a large village occupied by Moslems and Christians in + the proportion of two to one. It is in the same valley we have traversed + all the way from Jerud, which continues to Palmyra, forty miles further + on. Here is an oasis in the Desert; a fountain bursts from the end of a + low spur which juts out of the mountain range and touches one end of the + village. + </p> + <p> + It is quite possible that the man who declared it remarkable that great + rivers run by large cities might insist that there is a fountain near + Kuryetein and dispute our assertion that Kuryetein is near a large + fountain; but we wont be particular about words, as we are to stop here + over night and want to have a peaceful time of it, to prepare us for the + fatigues of to-morrow. + </p> + <p> + The water from the fountain is carried in little canals by a very careful + system of irrigation over a considerable extent of ground, and creates + fertility in what would otherwise be a barren waste. Kuryetein is in the + country of the Bedouins, and these Arabs frequently come and camp near the + village on account of the water that constantly flows there. They bring + their flocks j and herds and constitute themselves a general nuisance, as + they are not particular about camping grounds and take the first place + they can find, without much regard for the owner’s rights. If I were + obliged to live in a village situated as this is, and under all its + disadvantages, I would move away at once. + </p> + <p> + The broken columns and large stones, hewn and squared, lying around, + indicate beyond a doubt that a city of importance once stood here, but the + most diligent inquirer can learn nothing of the inhabitants concerning the + place. It stood there as far back | as they can remember, and that is all + they know about it. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">307</span><a name="link307" id="link307"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0119" id="linkimage-0119"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0317.jpg" alt="0317 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0317.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII—TENT-LIFE AMONG THE BEDOUINS.—THE WARRIORS OF + THE DESERT. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Among the Bedouins—A Genuine Son of the Desert—High-toned + Robbers—A Sample of Bedouin Hospitality—Etiquette in an Arab + Encampment—A Cas-e of Insult—Tent-life and its Freedom—A + Nation of Cavalry-Warriors—Bedouin Dress, Manners and Customs—Their + Horses and Weapons—A Singular Custom—A Caricature Steed and + his Rider—Arab Scare-Crows—On the Road to Palmyra—A + Mountain of Ruins—The Grand Colonnade—The Temple of the Sun—A + Building Half a Mile in Circumference—An Earthquake, and what it did—The + City of the Caliphs.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E are sure to see + some of the real Bedouins of the Desert during our stay here, and this + will be a good place to learn something about them. + </p> + <p> + The real, untamed Bedouin differs from the shabby counterfeit we see + around Jerusalem and Beyrout as a five dollar gold piece differs from a + bogus cent. The real Bedouin rides a fine horse (which is almost always a + mare), and he gets himself up in a style sufficiently gorgeous to be a + partial compensation to the traveller for being robbed by him. He is a + dignified, high-toned thief, and transacts business on the square; he is + never impolite, even when plundering you, and his hospitality is + unbounded. + </p> + <p> + When you go to a Bedouin encampment you must stop at the first tent; if + you pass it by for a better looking one you will offer the owner an + affront he cannot easily forget, and ten to one he will come around and + ask you to step out on the sidewalk and and have a little pugilism <i>a la + Bedouin</i>. They wisely put the <span class="pagenum">308</span><a + name="link308" id="link308"></a>Sheik’s tent nearest the roadway, + and consequently the stranger naturally comes into his hands and becomes + his guest. They do all in their power to make the visitor comfortable, and + treat him always to the best the place affords. He has the full and free + run of the village, can go to the opera or circus without paying a cent, + and can run up as large a bill as he chooses at any of the bars and + restaurants. He pays nothing for carriages, morning papers, cocktails and + cigars, and the street cars; hospitals and rat pits are always open to + him. For a real free-and-easy to a stranger, nothing can beat a Bedouin + encampment. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0120" id="linkimage-0120"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0318.jpg" alt="0318 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0318.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + A gentleman who has seen much of the Bedouins between Damascus and Palmyra + speaks of them as follows: + </p> + <p> + “The Amazeh are probably the most powerful of all the Arab tribes. + They scour the Desert, from the Euphrates to the borders of Syria, and + from Aleppo to the plain of Nejd—in winter emigrating to the + Euphrates, and sometimes spreading over Mesopotamia; in spring they come + up like “locusts for multitude” along the frontier of Syria. + They can bring into the field ten thousand horsemen and nearly ninety + thousand camel riders, and hair, having, usually, broad, vertical stripes + of white and brown. On the head is the <i>cafia</i> or silk kerchief, held + in place by a cord of camel’s hair. The sheiks are distinguished by + a short scarlet pelisse lined with fur or sheepskin, and they wear large + boots of red leather while the common people generally walk barefoot. + </p> + <p> + “The women are almost all handsome when young, and in form <span + class="pagenum">309</span><a name="link309" id="link309"></a>they are + lords of a district forty thousand square miles in area. They are divided + into four great tribes, which are not unfrequently at war, though they + call themselves brothers. + </p> + <p> + “Their dress consists of an under garment of calico, gray or blue, + reaching to the midleg, and fastened round the waist with a leathern + girdle. The sleeves are wide and have very long, pendant points. Over this + is thrown the abba or loose cloak of goat’s <span class="pagenum">310</span><a + name="link310" id="link310"></a>and feature many of them are models. But + they have bad tempers, are oppressed with hard work from their youth, and + soon lose all their freshness and beauty. Their dress is very simple, + consisting of a wide loose robe of blue calico, fastened round the neck + and sweeping the ground. On the head is a large black veil usually of silk + but seldom used to cover the face. They are fond of ornaments; rings, + ear-rings, bracelets and anklets of glass, copper, silver and gold are + worn in great abundance. Five or six bracelets are often found on a single + dark arm while rings of all shapes and sizes cover the fingers. + </p> + <p> + “The principal weapon of the Bedouin is a lance, about twelve feet + long and steel pointed, and the opposite end contains an iron spike for + fixing it in the ground. In a charge the lance is held above the head and + just before striking it is shaken so as to make it quiver from end to end. + All the horsemen carry swords and some of them carry pistols and daggers. + The Bedouins have a novel mode of warfare with dromedaries each carrying + two men. The foremost of these men has a short spear and a club or mace at + his saddle bow and the other carries a matchlock. + </p> + <p> + “They seldom fight pitched battles. Guerrilla warfare is their + forte. To fall upon the enemy suddenly, sweep off a large amount of booty + and get back to their own territory again, ere rescue or reprisal can be + effected, is the Arab style. Plundering parties often go a distance of + eight or ten days’ journey. Every warrior rides his mare but has a + companion mounted on a dromedary to carry provisions and water. The latter + remain at a rendezvous while the horsemen make the attack. In their forays + the Bedouins never kill an unresisting foe unless tempted by + blood-revenge.” + </p> + <p> + The real Bedouin is not a large personage. He is rarely taller than five + feet and seven or eight inches, and is not inclined to corpulence. He + appears taller than he really is by reason of his erectness, and he has a + light, elastic step and performs every movement with ease and grace. His + features are sharp, his nose aquiline, his eyes dark, deep set and + generally lustrous, his beard thin and short and his hair long and worn in + greasy plaits down each side of the face. The complexion is a dark olive, + but it varies considerably among different tribes. <span class="pagenum">311</span><a + name="link311" id="link311"></a>The Bedouins of Jerusalem and most other + parts of Palestine are a burlesque upon the sons of the Desert. The + “Doubter” called them sons of thieves, or something of the + sort, and for once we agreed with him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0121" id="linkimage-0121"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0321.jpg" alt="0321 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0321.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The first one that was pointed out to me was enough to make a chicken + laugh or a mule sing. He was mounted on a horse that looked as if he had + walked out of a bone-boiling factory by mistake and was waiting to go back + again and take his turn. His (the horse’s) pet hold appeared to be + in waiting, and certainly his general style indicated that he could put + the time in that way better than in any other unless it were in dying. + </p> + <p> + As for speed he couldn’t pass any other horse, short of a dead one, + except by going the other way, and I have a strong belief that a dead + horse would have given him a reasonably lively trial. + </p> + <p> + He was all over knobs like an Irish blackthorn and the “Doubter” + took him at first for a lot of oyster shells nailed against a garden gate. + He drank through his left eye or rather the socket for it, and then his + upper lip curled over in a sort of a hook that was very convenient in + picking up anything; one ear hung forward and the other aft; his tail had + been originally “set up” but it had broken and lopped half way + so that it doubled back on itself in a manner remarkable to behold. <span + class="pagenum">312</span><a name="link312" id="link312"></a>The rider was + as great a burlesque as the horse. He looked like a last year’s + scarecrow, coming home from a drunk, and in gazing upon his looped and + windowed raggedness you experienced a desire to move him to the nearest + cornfield, run a bean pole through him, and set him up on a stump. As a + work of art, he was worthy a place among the pictures and statuary in the + capitol at Washington, and it was fortunate that none of our aesthetic + Congressmen could have a chance at him. He carried a spear and tried to + wave it at an imaginary foe, but before he got it in the air the point + fell out and disconcerted him. We turned away to hide our tears—and + smiles. A regiment of oil derricks would, be about as serviceable as one + composed of these fellows, so far as fighting qualities are concerned. If + I am ever robbed I hope it will not be by one of these cheap-John + Bedouins. I should feel as badly as a man I once knew who was telling me + of an accident from which he was limpingly recovering. + </p> + <p> + “To think,” said he, “that I should have been ten years + at sea, and four years in the army in the field, with never a scratch, and + then be run over by a swill-wagon and have my leg broken.” + </p> + <p> + In the forty miles and more from Kuryetein to Palmyra there is not a drop + of water, and the journey is generally made in one day with a single brief + halt. The valley is the same and varies from four to eight miles in width, + and the features of the landscape are the same as before. + </p> + <p> + By and by the mountains shut in upon the valley and leave only a narrow + and crooked pass. We enter this and suddenly the whole mass of ruins upon + the site of Palmyra are spread before our wondering eyes. + </p> + <p> + The scene is wild, strange, grand, and gloomy. Ruins heaped on ruins, rows + and rows of columns with great irregular gaps where Time and man have + performed the work of destruction; huge pillars rising singly and in + groups, scattered masses of enormous stones, broken arches and gateways + and porticos, walls of immense strength encircling what was once the city, + and in the back ground the great Temple of the Sun, these form the + picture. Baalbek is humble in our minds as we look at Palmyra. No other + ruin in Syria can compare with this. As we rode along the dreary stretch + from Kuryetein to Palmyra we tried <span class="pagenum">313</span><a + name="link313" id="link313"></a>to imagine the spectacle that was to be + revealed to us, but our imagination fell far short of the reality. We + forget our fatigue and as our camel kneels we dismount and stand lost in + admiration and amazement. + </p> + <p> + The greatest of all the ruins in Palmyra is that of the Temple of the Sun. + The edifice was originally a square court, measuring seven hundred and + forty feet on each of the four sides, and its walls were seventy feet + high. Near the centre of this court was the temple, composed of Corinthian + columns, which supported an entablature elaborately sculptured and + revealing a high state of art. The work here is quite equal to that at + Baalbek, and the resemblance in many points is remarkable. The temple is + much defaced, as it has been used both as a fortress and a mosque, and in + the latter instance the pious Moslems sought to remove as much as possible + the indications of a pagan origin. Time has been more kind than man; the + clear air of the Desert has preserved the sculptures wherever man left + them untouched, and many of them are now as clear and sharp as when the + architect pronounced his work complete, and stood in triumph at the + entrance of the once magnificent portico. Remember that the columns of the + temple were almost seventy feet high, and that inside the court nearly a + hundred columns still remain standing! + </p> + <p> + About three hundred yards from the temple is the entrance to the grand + colonnade, which originally consisted of four rows of columns, extending + from one end of the city to the other, a dis tance of nearly an English + mile. The columns were each nearly sixty feet high, including base and + capital, and of the fifteen hundred that originally composed it, + nine-tenths have fallen. It is thought that Palmyra has at some time + suffered from an earthquake, as in some places whole ranges of columns are + thrown down in such a way as to indicate that their fall was simultaneous. + No one knows when this work was erected, but from certain marks on the + stones, it is attributed to the time of the Emperor Hadrian. + </p> + <p> + The temple and the colonnade are the great wonders of Palmyra, and I will + not detract from them by attempting a description of the other ruins + inclosed within the walls or scattered among the hills that surround the + site of this won<span class="pagenum">314</span><a name="link314" + id="link314"></a>derful city. Let us fix our attention on the two objects + I have named. + </p> + <p> + Palmyra, or Tadmor, owes its origin to Solomon, King of Israel. In his + time the route of travel and commerce to and from the East lay in this + direction, and he determined to found a city which should protect it. He, + therefore, as recorded in I Kings ix. 18, built Tadmor in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + For nearly a thousand years subsequent to the time of King Solomon, the + name of Tadmor does not appear, but it became noticeable about the + beginning of the Christian Era. After its submission to the Emperor + Hadrian, its greatness increased rapidly; then it underwent a series of + varying fortunes, until about the beginning of the fourth century, when + the time of its grandeur came to an end, and its decline and fall were + rapid. In the twelfth century it had a population of more than four + thousand; now the only inhabitants of Palmyra are a few dozens of dirty + and sullen Arabs, who live in hovels erected in the court yard of the + Temple of the Sun. + </p> + <p> + We spend a day at Palmyra, wandering among its ruins and musing upon + Solomon, and Hadrian, and Zenobia, whose very names are unknown to the + people now dwelling there. Early the next morning we resume our seats in + the saddle and return to Damascus. + </p> + <p> + From Palmyra one can travel to Bagdad by way of Mossool, and I met several + gentlemen who had made the journey. It is a fatiguing one and must be made + partly in the saddle and partly on a raft, unless the traveller is + fortunate enough to find a boat at Mossool. The shores of the river are + somewhat monotonous, and the principal incidents of the route are the + danger of an upset. + </p> + <p> + Bagdad is well known to us from the recurrence of its name so frequently + in the Arabian Nights. A British official who visited it a few years ago, + says that it covers an enormous space for an Oriental city. Its population + is estimated at about eighty thousand. The chief part of it consists of + Arabs and Turks, but there is a large colony of Persians and other + Orientals, as well as a fair number of Christians, and a few Jews. + </p> + <p> + The town proper is on one side of the Tigris, which is spanned by a bridge + of boats, but the fine houses are scattered on both <span class="pagenum">315</span><a + name="link315" id="link315"></a> + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0122" id="linkimage-0122"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0325.jpg" alt="0325 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0325.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">317</span><a name="link317" id="link317"></a>banks. + For a third of the year the climate of Bagdad is delightful, another third + it is a trifle too warm for comfort, but can be endured, and for the + remaining third it is so hot that it could give points to the inside of a + smelting furnace and then beat it. At this time the inhabitants take + shelter in their cellars, and anybody who has a refrigerator to sleep in + is considered fortunate. They bake their bread by putting the dough on a + platter and setting it in the sun, and when they want to roast a turkey or + a joint of mutton, they put it on the housetop for a quarter of an hour + about noon. I haven’t the documents for all the above statements, + but know a man who will prepare them if paid in advance. + </p> + <p> + There is a curious disease in this part of the world, and its ravages + extend through the valleys of the Euphrates and Tigris, and as far west as + Aleppo. In Bagdad it is called the date-mark, and further west is known as + the Aleppo button. + </p> + <p> + It is a sore, obstinate and annoying, but painless, and appears on any + part of the body just as a boil does in Christian countries, It stays + twelve months, and then heals of its own accord, leaving a scar which + stays for life. At first this scar is the color of a date, but it fades + out in a few years, and resembles the rest of the skin. + </p> + <p> + Everybody must have it once, and only once; the disease is impartial, as + it shows no distinction between natives and foreigners who have not taken + out their papers of naturalization. The gentleman who is my authority says + he knew an officer in the British army, in whom the date-mark made its + appearance while he was travelling from Bagdad to India. It remained + untouched, and then an English doctor attempted to cure it. + </p> + <p> + He cauterized it every day for four weeks, and at the end of that time the + sore dried up and healed. Everything went on well for a month, and then + the sore reappeared—not in the old spot, but in four other places, + where it remained five months and then vanished. <span class="pagenum">318</span><a + name="link318" id="link318"></a> + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0123" id="linkimage-0123"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0328.jpg" alt="0328 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0328.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV—ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF SYRIA. + </h2> + <p> + <i>“Doing” Syria—The “Short” and the “Long” + Route—How to Choose Them—Engaging a Dragoman—Farewell to + Damascus—Preying on Travelers—The Wonderful Rivers of Syria—Crossing + the Desert—A Picture of Desolation—Scene of St. Paul’s + Conversion—A Striking Contrast—Ancient Ruins and Modern Hovels—A + Night with the Bedouins—A Hard Road to Travel—A Glorious View—The + “Doubter’s” Mischance—The Lizard in the Boot—A + Ludicrous Scene—Gustave’s New Joke—Mollifying a Native—The + Massacre at Hasbeiya—Treachery of a Turkish Colonel—Scene of + Christ’s Labors—In the Holy Land.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE “short + route” of Syria and Palestine is to land at Beyrout, proceed to + Damascus, by way of Mount Lebanon, and then return to Beyrout. There one + takes ship to Jaffa, whence he visits Jerusalem and the country around it, + and returns to Jaffa to sail away to Egypt or some other country. + </p> + <p> + The “long route” is to land at Beyrout and proceed to + Damascus, as before. From Damascus one goes overland by Tiberias to + Jerusalem, and, after seeing the Holy City and surrounding country, takes + ship at Jaffa. This route may be reversed by landing at Jaffa and taking + ship at Beyrout. + </p> + <p> + From Damascus to Jerusalem, by the “long route,” is a + horseback journey of seventeen days. It may be shortened by rapid travel, + and extended to any limit; if you hire the dragoman and his outfit by the + day, the longer you make the time the better he will be pleased. + </p> + <p> + The spring is the best time of the year for making this excursion, as it + comes between the period of “the early and the latter rain.” + There are no carriage roads in this part of the country, + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">319</span><a name="link319" id="link319"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0124" id="linkimage-0124"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0329.jpg" alt="0329 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0329.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + and the traveller must make up his mind to the discomforts of a saddle and + to lodging in a tent. A dragoman will undertake to supply him with + everything—horses, tents, food, bedding, and all—for a + stipulated price, which varies with the size of the party, the time of + year, and various other circumstances. I shall have more to say on this + subject in another place, and will jump at once into the saddle without + wasting time upon preliminaries. The long route was impracticable for our + party at the time we were in Syria, but I gave it a very careful study, + and from the sources at my command obtained the fullest information + concerning it. Let us undertake a journey by this ancient way, and we will + carry the “Doubter” along with us. He can’t be spared. + </p> + <p> + We leave Damascus by the Salahiyeh suburb, passing along a paved road and + making a gentle ascent that gives us a good view of the city every time we + choose to turn our heads. Some of the houses in this suburb are quite + good, and we are not surprised to learn that many of the merchants of + Damascus make their residence here. As we reach the end of the large + village we pass some ruined mosques and tombs, but we have seen so many of + these things that our attention is hardly attracted by them. The Moslems + of the past must have been more devout than are their descendants of + to-day, as they built a great many edifices for religious and memorial + purposes, to which very little attention is paid at present. The Syrian + Moslem does not seem to care for the antique any more than does his + Turkish brother; there may be exceptions, but I think the rule holds good. + For the ruins of Baalbek and Palmyra, the Syrian has no veneration except + for their money-making qualities; the few people that live near them are + not attracted to either spot by any love for it, but solely because it is + a good place for “backsheesh.” Take away the tourist and his + gold and silver and the natives would move elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + I am the more severe on these worldly-minded Syrians, who remain unmoved + in the face of the stupendous remains of a past age when I contrast them + with the guides and runners, hackmen-and peddlers, hotel-keepers and + hotel-waiters, who assemble at Niagara and similar places in America. At + Palmyra, or at the Pyramids, the Arabs pester you for “backsheesh,” + and greatly <span class="pagenum">320</span><a name="link320" id="link320"></a>mar + your interest and pleasure. But at Niagara did any one ever hear of such + conduct on the part of the men who make their living there? The noble + qualities of the American (generally a naturalized one), come out strongly + at Niagara; the beauty and sublimity of the cataract never fail to impress + the resident with the sense of his duties to his fellow-man, and while the + Arab will endeavor to make you pay ten times what you ought, his Niagara + prototype is satisfied with five times, provided he knows he cannot + possibly lie you out of any more. I have been at Niagara and Long Branch, + the White Mountains and the Yosemite Valley, and thus speak knowingly. And + whenever an Arab endeavored to defraud me I thought how much better things + were at the fashionable resorts in my own country, and derived much + consolation from the reflection. + </p> + <p> + We take a last view of Damascus from a point where the road crosses a hill + about five hundred feet above the city, and nearly two miles away. We see + the valley of the Abana in all its loveliness, and realize how much is due + to this river and its never-failing waters. We can fully understand the + pride with which the native of Damascus contemplates this perennial stream + and do not wonder at the reply of Naaman, when told to wash in Jordan. The + river is made all the more lovely by its fringe of trees and the + wide-spreading gardens where it flows, and the greenness of the foliage is + rendered all the more apparent when we contrast it with the barren hills + around. The river, divided here and there into several streams, foams and + ripples through the glen that leads it down from the mountains to the + plain below. Our road lies along this glen, and we suddenly leave it and + emerge upon the plain of Dimas. + </p> + <p> + The change is quite abrupt, from the rich verdure of the valley to the + sterility of the Desert, for this plain is really a desert in miniature. + The soil is hard and dry, more like flint than earth, and, if you happen + to traverse it in summer, you find the heat is intense. It happened to be + raining when I crossed this plain, and moreover, it was in the winter, so + that I escaped the sensation of undergoing a torture by roasting. It is + difficult to realize that such a barren waste can exist so near such a + charming city as Damascus. The plain is about ten miles across, and from + one <span class="pagenum">321</span><a name="link321" id="link321"></a>side + to the other there is not a green thing to be seen, unless the traveller + may consider himself one. + </p> + <p> + After crossing the plain of Dimas we enter the mountains, where we find a + few pleasant valleys and ravines, and have some rugged scenery that is not + disagreeable. From one of the passes the guide points out another road, + which leads more to the eastward, and where the scene of Saul’s + conversion is located. There seems to be some difference of opinion about + the exact locality, and I suspect that nobody knows the real state of + things. + </p> + <p> + The tradition which locates the conversion there dates back to the time of + the Crusades. Some authorities make the scene of the conversion almost + under the walls of Damascus, and others within a mile or two of that + place. It all depends upon what is meant by “near Damascus.” + If we were at San Francisco, and speaking of Albany, we might say “it + is near New York,” but should hardly use the expression if we were + at Trenton or Hartford. However, it makes no difference about the + conversion; we know it happened on the road from Jerusalem, and was near + Damascus, so that a mile or two is of no consequence. + </p> + <p> + We pass several villages and wind among the hills, and in some of the + villages, or near them, we find the remains of temples which were + doubtless magnificent in their time. They are supposed to have been + dedicated to the worship of the sun, though their history and origin are + unknown. We are in front of the mountain of Hermon, known here as + Jebelesh-Sheik, and it is observable that in several places the temples + are made to face it, leading to the supposition that the mountain was an + object of veneration and worship. + </p> + <p> + We pass the night in our camp, at the little village of Rasheiya; we are + not in the village, but near enough to enable the beggars and the lame, + halt, and blind to find us without trouble and ask for “backsheesh,” + which they are sure to do. The white top of Mount Hermon rises above us, + and we look upon it with longing eyes. Who will join me in climbing it? + </p> + <p> + We will divide the party for a day. We will put the “Doubter” + with the rest of the mules and send them around to Hasbeiya, where they + can wait till we get down on the other side of Hermon. We will start + before daybreak, climb the mountain, and, <span class="pagenum">322</span><a + name="link322" id="link322"></a>by making sharp work of it, can get down + to camp in season for a late supper. We shall feel as tired as though we + had been run through a rolling mill; climbing Mount Hermon is serious + business, and a thing to do once. Nobody would undertake it a second time, + for the mere pleasure of the trip. + </p> + <p> + Hermon is, with one exception, the highest mountain in Syria, Lebanon + being the most elevated. Its summit, or rather its highest summit, for it + has three peaks, is about ten thousand feet above the sea level, and for + the greater part of the year is covered with snow. In fact the snow + remains there the entire year, as there are certain ravines and valleys + where it never disappears completely, but lies in sloping streaks visible + at a great distance. The mountain is of gray limestone, like Lebanon, and + as one looks up its sides there is an aspect of almost complete + barrenness. The central peak is entirely destitute of vegetation, with the + exception of a few thorny bushes that seem to cling there in utter + hopelessness. + </p> + <p> + The view from the summit is magnificent, and well repays us for our + trouble. On the north we have the ranges of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, with + the valley of Bukaâ between them. To the east is the plain of Arabia, + spreading out like an ocean, and dotted here and there with ranges and + clusters of hills that look not unlike islands. Southward is the Sea of + Galilee, and beyond it we can trace the deep valley of the Jordan till it + is lost in the distance and shut in by the mountains of Gilead and + Samaria. We can see the sunlight playing on the waters of the blue + Mediterranean in the west, and trace the coast line, with all its + sinuosities, from Mount Carmel to Tyre and Sidon. At our feet and all + below us the mountains and valleys, rivers and ravines, are traceable, and + as we turn around the points of compass from north back to north again, a + beautiful panorama is revealed to us. + </p> + <p> + On one of the summits of Hermon there are the ruins of a small temple; + they are on the very top and near the edge of a cliff, and the character + of the work indicates great antiquity. + </p> + <p> + Their history is unknown. But careful students of the Bible have connected + them with certain passages which seem to show that the temples were used + for purposes of idolatry. + </p> + <p> + We descend and rejoin our companions at Hasbeiya, where we + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">323</span><a name="link323" id="link323"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0125" id="linkimage-0125"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0335.jpg" alt="0335 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0335.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">325</span><a name="link325" id="link325"></a>find + the “Doubter” in trouble with a native. He took off his boots + to cool his feet after getting into camp, and while the boots were lying + on the ground a lizard crept into one of them and nestled down into the + toe. When he attempted to don them again the lizard was in the way, and + the old fellow danced around as if he had been educated for an organ + grinder’s monkey. The nimbleness and desperate energy of his + movements, as he vainly endeavored, in his excited state, to pull off his + boot, was a performance that the astonished natives had never before + witnessed. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0126" id="linkimage-0126"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8337.jpg" alt="8337 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8337.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He tugged and twisted, and hopped about on one leg, in a very expert and + fantastic style. + </p> + <p> + Finally he removed the boot and out came the lizard, one of those + harmless, pretty little things that are found all through Syria. One of + the natives had witnessed his contortions, and on seeing the very slight + cause for it the impudent aboriginal laughed. + </p> + <p> + This was very wrong for him to do, and also very rare, for the Syrians are + a solemn race and about as little inclined to risibility as an Indian. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” accused the native of putting the lizard into + the boot and called the dragoman to translate the accusation. Native + denied the charge and wanted “backsheesh” as a salve to his + wounded honor. The “Doubter” wouldn’t give it, and thus + is the situation when we arrive from Mount Hermon. + </p> + <p> + “Go away, boy, go away,” he repeats in the intervals of the + demand for “backsheesh.” The boy does not heed the remark and + grows more importunate as he sees we do not take sides with the “Doubter.” + </p> + <p> + “Isn’t this Hasbeiya?” Gustave says, with a twinkle in + his eye. + </p> + <p> + I nod and speak assent. + </p> + <p> + “You must give him something at once,” says Gustave, turning + to the skeptic. “This place is the most dangerous in <span + class="pagenum">326</span><a name="link326" id="link326"></a>all Syria. + The majority of the inhabitants are <i>Chrétiens</i>, and will murder you + on the slightest provocation. If that boy goes away unpaid, after you have + doubted his honor, he will bring down a dozen or more armed men and your + life won’t be worth three centimes.” + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” is incredulous, but there is enough in Gustave’s + statement to alarm him, and we see that he changes color. After a moment’s + hesitation he suggests that Gustave had better pay the boy and send him + away if the place is so very dangerous. + </p> + <p> + “That will never do,” responds Gustave, “<i>you</i> have + committed the offense and it is you they will be after. Do you see those + men in front of that house? They know something is wrong. Give the boy + half a franc and send him away.” + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” reluctantly draws half a franc from his pocket + and places it in the boy’s hand. He is suspicious that he has been + hoaxed, but he has some regard for his continued stay on this planet and + is willing to pay a small sum. But rather than give a franc he would take + the chances. One must draw a line somewhere, you know. + </p> + <p> + Before 1860 Hasbeiya contained a population of about five thousand, + four-fifths of them Christians. It was the scene of one of the most + terrible massacres of that year. The town stands in a glen, and is + surrounded on three sides by high hills which are terraced and covered + with vineyards, and fig and olive trees. In a secure place on a rocky + ridge is a strong building formerly the palace of a local chieftain, and + capable of resisting any attack with small arms. In 1860 it had a garrison + of two hundred soldiers commanded by a Turkish colonel, and when the + Christians were attacked by the Druzes they appealed to the Colonel for + protection. He gave them a written guarantee of safety on condition that + they should come into the palace and surrender their weapons, which they + did. They were then kept for seven days in the palace and at the end of + that time the colonel ordered the gates thrown open. The Druzes were + admitted, and the Christians to the number of a thousand were massacred. + The soldiers of the garrison did not join in the massacre, but they + prevented the Christians fleeing or seeking concealment, and in some + instances pushed them forward to be killed. The Colonel <span + class="pagenum">327</span><a name="link327" id="link327"></a>was afterward + tried, condemned and shot, at Damascus, by order of the British + Commissioner, Lord Dufferin. He (the Colonel) insisted that he was acting + under authority of his superiors, and the belief is very prevalent that + the whole series of massacres was covertly ordered from Constantinople. + </p> + <p> + From Hasbeiya we take an early start and ride to Banias through a rough + and picturesque country, fairly wooded for Syria and containing frequent + olive groves. We pass a lot of villages, each looking so much like the + other that it is not worth while to try to make much distinction between + them. We pass near one of the sources of the Jordan, a fountain that has + flowed without cessation for unknown thousands of years, and will probably + flow on for thousands of years to come. One of the villages on the route + contains the tomb or one of the tombs, of Nimrod, the mighty hunter. Very + little is left of it—about as much as there is of Nimrod himself. + </p> + <p> + Banias, better known as Cesarea-Philippi, is picturesquely situated. A + mountain crowned by a ruined castle overlooks abroad terrace which + commands a fine view of mountain and plain. The ruins of the city and the + huts of the modern town are situated on this terrace, and the spot + reflects creditably on the man who chose it. I don’t think he is + around now, as he performed his work a good while before King Solomon was + thought of. The time of the foundation is unknown, but it is certain that + a city stood here at a very early date. The name Banias comes from Panias + or Panium; the Greek settlers in Syria established here a temple to the + worship of the God <i>Pan</i> and from the establishment of the temple a + city grew up. + </p> + <p> + The ruins are of considerable extent, and comprise among other things a + citadel, inclosing a quadrangle of four acres or more within massive + walls. The modern village is within this citadel, and contains forty or + fifty huts and houses built with flat roofs, like nearly all houses in + Syria. How are the mighty fallen! The walls of the city have suffered from + earthquakes and vandalism, but more especially from the roots of plants + and trees that have forced the stones apart. The same is the case with the + castle that overlooks the town at an elevation of quite a thousand feet. + <span class="pagenum">328</span><a name="link328" id="link328"></a>A steep + path leads up to the castle and it requires an hour of toilsome climbing + to reach the top of the hill. The castle has a curious shape; it is about + a thousand feet long by two hundred broad, and narrows considerably in the + centre, so that it looks like two castles side by side. Many of the stones + composing the walls are of great size, for such an elevation; they are + frequently ten or twelve feet long, and accurately hewn and dressed. One + can spend hours in the castle studying its construction and looking out + upon the beautiful panorama that greets the eye from its walls. + Antiquarians and archaeologists are at variance concerning this castle; + some of them give it an existence from a period long before the Christian + Era, while others think it is not more than twelve or fifteen hundred + years old. + </p> + <p> + The city did not become prominent in history until the time of Herod the + Great. Josephus relates that “Herod having accompanied Cæsar to the + sea and returned home erected to him a beautiful temple of white marble + near the palace called <i>Pentium</i>. This is a fine cave in a mountain + under which there is a great cavity in the earth, abrupt, deep and full of + water. Over it hangs a vast mountain; and under the cavern rise the + springs of the river Jordan. Herod adorned this place, which was already a + remarkable one, still farther by the erection of this temple which he + dedicated to Cæsar.” + </p> + <p> + The description is accurate. The temple is gone, but there are Greek + inscriptions and sculptured niches on the face of the cliff which were + made at the time the temple was erected. The great fountain which forms + the principal source of the Jordan bursts from the side of the cliff + through a cavern, now partially choked with rough rocks and fragments of + ancient buildings. The waters roll and break through a rocky channel as + they begin their course down the deep ravine which leads them on and on + till they are swallowed in the dark and gloomy bosom of the Dead Sea. + </p> + <p> + Hermon, the high mountain, is in front of us, and its triple summit stands + cold and majestic now as it stood in the days that were made memorable by + the recorded miracles of Christ. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">329</span><a name="link329" id="link329"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0127" id="linkimage-0127"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0341.jpg" alt="0341 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0341.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV—“FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA.”—JOURNEYING + THROUGH THE HOLY LAND. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Our first morning in Palestine—Breaking Camp at Banias—“From + Dan to Beer-sheba”—Explanation of the phrase—The Cup of + the Hills—The Golden Calf of Jeroboam—Story of Vishnu and his + Idol—An Incident and its Moral—The Battlefields of Joshua—A + singular species of Plough—The “Doubter” in a quandary—Joseph’s + Pit—The Sea of Galilee—Fishing with Poisoned Bait—Capernaum + and its Ruins—Scene of Christ’s Miracles—The Birthplace + of Mary Magdalen—A horde of Beggars—A Pitiful Spectacle—The + Robber’s Cave—Herod and his Strategy—The Jews of + Tiberias—A Seedy Crowd—Ruins of the Ancient City—The + spot where Christ fed the Multitude.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span>N the morning we + are roused by the voice of the dragoman or one of his servants, and have + half an hour for dressing. We rise reluctantly, for we are still weary + from the fatigues of yesterday, and how we do wish for just a few minutes + more. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” pulls at the handle of the Judge’s + umbrella, under the impression that it is a bell-knob, and sleepily asks + for a cocktail. But there is nothing of the kind to be had, and after + grumbling at everybody and everything, he proceeds to his toilet and soon + comes out with an appearance suggestive of an Italian brigand who has had + a run of bad luck. + </p> + <p> + While we are at breakfast, the men strike the tents and are off. They go + straight to our camping place for the coming night, so that they will have + everything ready by the time we arrive. One pack-horse and a servant with + the lunch remains with us, and they and their burden come in very handy + about noon. We have no trouble in getting up good appetites in this clear + air of Palestine, though unfortunately it is a trifle too warm for com<span + class="pagenum">330</span><a name="link330" id="link330"></a>fort. A + rugged path, where the rocks threaten to give us some dangerous tumbles, + brings us to Tell-el-Kady, about four miles from Banias. This place is + better known as Dan. Who has not heard of going “from Dan to + Beersheba?” The latter place—Bir-es-seba, or “well of + the covenant”—is on the southern border of Palestine, while + Dan is on the northern. Consequently, “from Dan to Beersheba” + means “from one end of the country to the other.” The identity + of the site cannot be doubted, as the place is clearly described in + Biblical and other history, and the remains of the ancient city are here. + </p> + <p> + There is a sort of cup-shaped mound here, in a plain, less than a hundred + feet above it, and possibly a thousand yards across. The whole place is + covered with a tangle of brushwood and weeds, and if we take the trouble + to penetrate this thicket, we shall find hewn stones, broken columns, and + other indications of the city that has passed away. There are some oak + trees here, and one of them can boast of considerable size. It is one of + the oaks of Bashan, and others can be seen on the mountain near us, and + dotting in irregular patches various parts of the landscape. The oaks of + Bashan are less famous now than they were three thousand years ago. + </p> + <p> + History tells us that this was once a Phoenician settlement, under the + name of Laish, and was captured by some Danites, who changed its name to + Dan. They took things easily, and had a good time, and whenever there was + a chance to make an honest penny by a little robbery, they were up to the + scratch. + </p> + <p> + Dan is mentioned in the first book of Kings (xii. 28-32) as one of the + places where Jeroboam erected a golden calf. + </p> + <p> + Jeroboam understood human nature, when he selected gold as the metal of + which the calf should be made. Brass would have been just as bright, but + it has its defects, and the chief one is a lack of intrinsic value. + </p> + <p> + Vishnu once appeared in the guise of a beggar to a Brahmin who was + superintending the erection and dedication of a temple in one of the + sacred groves of India. The temple was complete, and the Brahmin was + directing his fellows how to place the pedestal for the idol which he was + just taking out of the box. He removed the straw and wrappings, and + brought to <span class="pagenum">331</span><a name="link331" id="link331"></a>light + an idol of common wood, with pieces of white porcelain for eyes. + </p> + <p> + “Stop, O, Brahmin,” said the beggar. “Erect not that + wooden idol, for your temple will then be no more than others.” + </p> + <p> + “But make an idol of pure gold, and give it a pair of diamonds for + eyes, and the whole world will come here to worship.” + </p> + <p> + The beggar waved his hand, and behold! an idol such as he had described + stood upon the pedestal. The Brahmin turned to thank the stranger, but he + had disappeared. + </p> + <p> + And that shrine has ever been the most sacred in all the land of India. + </p> + <p> + The Brahmin sent the wooden idol back to the factory, and they accepted it + at twenty per cent. off, less the freight and charges for repacking. And + they sold it to a retail cigar dealer, who used it for a sign in front of + his shop. + </p> + <p> + The most interesting thing at Dan is the great fountain of the Jordan. It + bursts out at the western, base of the mound, and forms a small pond, and + out of this pond flows the stream, the largest in all Syria from a single + source. + </p> + <p> + Less than an hour from Dan, over, a stony and marshy plain, brings us to + Ain Belat, another fountain, and there is another of the same sort not far + away. There is nothing particularly interesting here, and so we go on to + Ain Mellahah, where we find the tents waiting for us near an old mill that + stands by the spring. + </p> + <p> + Lake Huleh, a sheet of water about three miles by four, is close at hand, + but it has no intrinsic attractions. + </p> + <p> + All around the lake is a marshy ground, spreading out on the North into a + plain, that has some claims to fertility. The Bedouins cultivate it after + a fashion, and some speculators have bought ground there and leased it out + to the natives. + </p> + <p> + Syrian agriculture is of a very primitive kind. They use, in this country, + the root of a tree for a plough, and they do little more than scratch the + soil. An American plough, either ‘breaker’ or ‘subsoil,’ + would drive the natives into confluent hysterics, and the sight of a + steam-plough turning half, a dozen furrows at once would strike them dead + with astonishment. + </p> + <p> + The first time the “Doubter” saw one of these Syrian scrapers, + he asked what it was. When we told him it was a plough, <span + class="pagenum">332</span><a name="link332" id="link332"></a>he said he + knew better, and we needn’t try to “play it on him.” + Then we thought it might be a horse-rake or a wheel-barrow, possibly a + brake to attach to a fiery saddle-horse to keep him from descending a hill + too fast. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0128" id="linkimage-0128"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0344.jpg" alt="0344 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0344.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Then we concluded it might be a pillow or a tooth-pick, and finally a part + of the equipment of a lunatic asylum. The “Doubter” at length + concluded it was a weapon of warfare, and with this wise conclusion he + dropped the subject. + </p> + <p> + Our forenoon’s ride from this camp is a dreary one. We have five + hours of it, or nearly that period, in a wild country overlooking the + valley of the Jordan on the left, and having no attractions of its own. It + is a scene of desolation. There were no trees—scarcely is there any + vegetation, and the only inhabitants are people who live somewhere else. + The hot, dry landscape is unforbidding in every feature, and only the + historic character of the country rewards us for our trouble. + </p> + <p> + We come to a wretched Khan, which is said to contain the pit into which + Joseph was thrown before he was sold by his brethren. The authenticity of + the story rests only upon tradition, and there are two or three other + places in the country which claim to be the real, original, Joseph’s + pit. They show us the hole, which is certainly capable of containing a + man. The “Doubter” does not <span class="pagenum">333</span><a + name="link333" id="link333"></a>believe it is the real pit, because he + cannot see the footprints of the fellows that flung their brother in. Some + one tells the story of the New York boot-black, who was induced one day to + go to Sunday school. The teacher told the story of Joseph and asked: + </p> + <p> + “What did Joseph’s brethren put him in the pit for?” + </p> + <p> + “I know,” said the gamin, with a confident air. + </p> + <p> + “Then tell us.” + </p> + <p> + “Fifteen cents!” shouted the young vagabond. + </p> + <p> + He was a frequenter of the old Bowery Theater, and familiar with the + prices at that establishment. + </p> + <p> + But we are in haste to go on; for before us is the Sea of Galilee, + shimmering under the scorching rays of a Syrian sun. It lies deep-set in a + basin of rough, barren mountains, and its surface, as we first look upon + it, is very far below us. If any of us have pictured a lake, surrounded + with luxuriant fields and shady groves, its waves kissing the feet of + waving palms, and reflecting the rich foliage of the tropics, we are + doomed to disappointment. It is a scene of desolation, akin to that + revealed when we look from the bleak hills beyond Bethlehem, and cast our + vision downward to the Dead Sea. The country must have undergone a great + change in the past two thousand years, as we cannot understand how it + could support the population that history accords to it. + </p> + <p> + The lake is oval in shape, and about thirteen miles long by six in width, + and where there were many boats in Christ’s time, there are now only + two. These are devoted more to the ferriage of travellers and their + excursions to points of interest along the shores, than to the fisheries. + A favorite mode of catching fish at the present time is to poison them + with bread crumbs soaked in corrosive sublimate. The fish die, and rise to + the surface, whence they are gathered and taken to the market of Tiberias + for sale. The natives do not mind any little trifle like this, but + foreigners should be cautious about the fish that they eat. + </p> + <p> + All around the shore of the lake is historic ground. We reach it at + Capernaum, or rather at one of the three points claimed to be the site of + that city, and known by the modern name of Khan Minyeh. It has, perhaps, + the best claims to recognition, but I shall not attempt to say that it is + or is not the real place. <span class="pagenum">334</span><a name="link334" + id="link334"></a>The ruins are not extensive, and can be seen in a short + time. Traces of foundations and walls of buildings can be found here and + there among the brushwood, and now and then a broken column or capital + rewards the search of the explorer. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0129" id="linkimage-0129"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0346.jpg" alt="0346 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0346.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Proceeding along the western bank of the lake, we reach Magdala, the + birth-place of Mary Magdalene. The shore of the lake in this part is quite + fertile, but the fertility is not utilized, except to a very slight + degree. Game is not unknown here, but the varieties are not numerous. + Quails are abundant, and so are turtle doves. “The voice of the + turtle is heard in the land,” is sure to be repeated by some one of + the party as we ride through the tangle of thistles, weeds, and brushwood + that lines the way from Capernaum to Magdala. + </p> + <p> + In itself, and without its historic associations, Magdala is of very + little consequence. It contains about twenty houses, of the Syrian + pattern, flat-roofed, and not over-pleasing in appearance. There are ruins + of houses of a more pretentious character, and the indications are general + that there was once a town here, of some consequence. + </p> + <p> + The inhabitants come out of their squalid dwellings and beg for anything + we choose to give. Money, old clothes, defaulted railway bonds, State + bonds, shares in a petroleum company, cold meat, bound volumes of + newspaper files, and anything else can <span class="pagenum">335</span><a + name="link335" id="link335"></a>be included in the word “backsheesh.” + It is a generic, not a specific, term, and those who continually din into + your ears the supplication, “Backsheesh, O Howadji!” are not + at all particular about what they receive. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0130" id="linkimage-0130"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0347.jpg" alt="0347 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0347.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + It is a good dodge to get the first innings on them once in a while. When + you catch sight of a native approaching you, it is morally certain that he + intends to beg. Take the bull by the horns, approach <i>him</i> and ask + for “backsheesh.” He will generally see the point, though he + does not always do so. + </p> + <p> + We have time to take a little run to some curious caves that lie in a + cliff about half an hour’s ride from Magdala. A steep and <span + class="pagenum">336</span><a name="link336" id="link336"></a>narrow path + leads to them, and while we are climbing it we see how easily the caves + could be defended. Their origin and history are unknown, and they were + evidently the work, not of one, but of several, generations. They are + mentioned by Josephus as fortified caverns, belonging to the city of + Arbela, whose ruins are close at hand. At various periods they have been + the resort of bandits, and probably would be so at present if the bandit + business was at all profitable. Herod the Great had an unpleasantness with + some free-booting gentlemen who dwelt in these caves. They made things + disagreeable for travellers and others, and would not divide with the + King, and so he sent an army to teach them better manners and bring their + heads home in carpet-sacks. But the fellows defended their lives, their + fortunes, and their sacred honor so desperately, and had so good a place + to defend them in, that the army couldn’t gain a point on them. + </p> + <p> + But Gen. Herod knew a thing or two, and after scratching his head awhile + over the problem, he sent for his carpenters and blacksmiths and ordered + them to get their tools ready and then come before him at five o’clock + the next morning. + </p> + <p> + They came, they saw, (each carpenter had one,) and they concurred with + him. + </p> + <p> + “Go,” said the general to the carpenters, “and make some + boxes of strong plank, about six feet square and four feet high. Make them + as strong as you would a travelling trunk for a thousand-mile journey on + an American railway.” + </p> + <p> + Then turning to the blacksmiths he said: + </p> + <p> + “And you, sons of Vulcan, get up lots of ox-chains, strong enough to + support these boxes with a thousand pounds in each.” + </p> + <p> + “A thousand pounds, in sovereigns, will weigh more than the same + amount in five-pun notes,” said the boss blacksmith, musingly. + “Does Your Majesty pay gold or paper?” + </p> + <p> + “A thousand pounds avoirdupois, you idiot,” replied the King. + The blacksmith apologized, and whispered to his neighbor that he thought + it would turn out so, as the King was hard up, and couldn’t raise + five hundred guineas in a month unless he stole them. + </p> + <p> + The boxes were made, and the <i>ferblantiers</i> and <i>charpentiers</i> + wondered what the king could be about. When they were ready, + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">337</span><a name="link337" id="link337"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0131" id="linkimage-0131"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0349.jpg" alt="0349 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0349.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">339</span><a name="link339" id="link339"></a>he put + a dozen infantry men with plenty of carbines and revolvers and supplies of + provisions and ammunition into each box, and lowered the whole lot of them + simultaneously down the face of the cliff above the canals. Thus the + soldiers were enabled to make it nasty for the robbers. They killed most + of them, and what they didn’t kill they flung over the face of the + precipice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0132" id="linkimage-0132"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0351.jpg" alt="0351 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0351.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We will not go back to Magdala, as there is a shorter route to Tiberias, + which is our next point of interest. As our cavalcade enters the town, the + inhabitants turn out to greet us, and we hear a word we think we have + heard before—“backsheesh.” The people differ materially + from those of Magdala and Capernaum, in being more numerous; in other + respects there is a marked similarity. They wear the same amount of dirt, + rags, and sore eyes, and an ophthalmist could make a fortune here, + provided he could get rich by practicing without fees. There are about two + thousand inhabitants, one-third of them Jews, and they are a very seedy + and unhappy lot of Israelites. I presume that those who are born in + Tiberias want to die there, and to look at them one would think that they + ought to wish to die as soon as possible. + </p> + <p> + Tiberias is a sacred place for the Jews, as they believe that the Messiah + will rise from the sea of Galilee, and after landing in the city will + proceed to the summit of Mount Safed, which <span class="pagenum">340</span><a + name="link340" id="link340"></a>is not far away. Comparatively few of the + Jews speak Arabic; they are divided into two sects, one of Russian and the + other of Spanish origin, so that they use the languages of the countries + whence they or their ancestors came. They are not on the best of terms + with their neighbors, and live in a part of the town assigned to them. + </p> + <p> + Tiberias once had a wall; the remains of it are there yet, and it was in + tolerable condition until about forty years ago, when an earthquake played + the mischief with it and left it full of great gaps and cracks that are + anything but pleasing. Your earthquake, a real, first-class one, is a + consummation not devoutly to be wished. + </p> + <p> + The ancient city is scattered promiscuously along the shore of the lake, + but there isn’t enough of it to make more than half-a-dozen + hog-yards. The modern town has absorbed nearly all that was worth + absorbing. + </p> + <p> + There is a Latin convent at Tiberias, with a church attached to it, which + is regarded with veneration by many Christian pilgrims. Like Jerusalem, + Tiberias is a sacred spot for both Christian and Jew, and thousands of + Jews consider it a blessing to be buried there, and it certainly would be + a blessing to bury those that we see in Tiberias. It was at one time their + chief residence in Palestine, and was their most prominent city for more + than three hundred years. Tiberias has been in the hands of Jews, + Persians, Arabs, and Crusaders, and has had the usual misfortunes of + Oriental towns. + </p> + <p> + There are some warm baths near Tiberias, and they are highly recommended + to strangers. The natives never patronize these baths or any other. The + only time a Syrian washes himself is when he gets caught in a shower, + without an umbrella, and can’t find any shelter, or get home. + </p> + <p> + All around the lake there are historic spots. Days could be spent in a + study of the places whose names have been made familiar to us by a perusal + of the Old and New Testaments. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">341</span><a name="link341" id="link341"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0133" id="linkimage-0133"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0353.jpg" alt="0353 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0353.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI—IN THE HEART OF PALESTINE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Bathing in the Sea of Galilee—Standing on holy ground—How + the “Doubter” was unhorsed—A second Absalom—Lunching + on the summit of Tabor—Saracenic Vengeance—A Reminiscence of + the Crusades—A magnificent Sight—Discussing “Backsheesh” + with the natives—The “Doubter” as a Cashier—The + Grotto of the Holy Family—Mary’s house—The house of + Loretto—The story of the Miracle—The Monk and the “Doubter”—Dean + Stanley’s explanation—Joseph’s Tool Chest—The + “Doubter’s” demand—The Witch of Endor “at + home”—Blood-Revenge—A pertinacious feud—Saul and + the Witch.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E have bathed in + the Sea of Galilee and played with the pebbles on its sandy beach; we have + visited places named in Holy Writ, and henceforth their mention will have + for us an additional charm. And now we will fold our tents like the Arabs, + (or let the Arabs fold them for us,) and as silently steal away. Our faces + are turned towards Jerusalem. + </p> + <p> + Our horses toil slowly up the ascent—a long and weary one—which + leads from the shore of the sea of Galilee. At Tiberias we are six hundred + feet below the level of the Mediterranean. The plain which we are now + approaching is five hundred feet above us, and consequently we must make + an elevation of eleven hundred feet to gain it. The way is rough in many + places, and we wonder how it has been allowed to remain so in all the + thousands of years that it has been in use. + </p> + <p> + As we emerge from the deep basin which encloses the lake we see before us + a mountain, like a huge mound or tumulus, rising out of the plain and + dominating it in all directions. It is Mount <span class="pagenum">342</span><a + name="link342" id="link342"></a>Tabor, and beyond it is the plain of + Esdraelon. Between us and the base of the mountain lies an undulating + plateau over which we find an easier road than the one we have just been + climbing. + </p> + <p> + We are on the great route of the caravans, between Egypt and Damascus, and + the first objects of interest are the ruins of “The Merchants’ + Caravansary,” or—in the language of the country—<i>Khan-et-Tujar</i>; + one of the pashas of Damascus built it about three hundred years ago, for + the protection of the caravans which were often troubled by robbers in + those days, but the buildings long ago ceased to be of any use, and have + been allowed to go to decay. + </p> + <p> + They are worth an examination, as specimens of modern Saracenic + architecture, and this is all. + </p> + <p> + We press forward toward Mount Tabor, and in an hour or more are at its + base. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0134" id="linkimage-0134"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8354.jpg" alt="8354 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8354.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We ascend by a difficult path that winds among oaks and thickets of thorn + bushes, and are brought to occasional halts by the slipping of saddles and + other slight mishaps. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” while passing under an oak from which he has + attempted to pluck a stick to serve as a whip. His hand has caught in the + branches, his horse does not stop to ask what is the matter, and the next + instant horse and rider have parted company. The horse goes on as if + nothing had happened, and the “Doubter,” after hanging an + instant, and reminding the per<span class="pagenum">343</span><a + name="link343" id="link343"></a>son next behind him of the misfortune of + Absalom, drops into the path below. The horse is caught by some one in + advance; the “Doubter” is picked up and put together and after + swallowing a dose of brandy is lifted into his saddle and enjoined to let + the oak limbs alone in future. He bends so low for the rest of the ride, + that his nose almost touches the mane of his steed. He is determined not + to get into trouble again. + </p> + <p> + We reach the summit—fourteen hundred feet above the sea—and + dismount from our panting horses. Lunch is served under one of the oak + trees that invites us to rest beneath its foliage, and we endeavor to make + ourselves comfortable. After lunch we devote a couple of hours to a ramble + around the spot; we might camp here, but we prefer to pass the night at + Nazareth, whither our camp was moved when we started from Tiberias. + </p> + <p> + We now find that Tabor is not circular in shape, but oval, the greatest + measurement being from East to West. The summit is slightly rounded and is + about a thousand yards long by half that in width. There are many ruins on + the summit, or rather masses of ruins; the principal thing to attract the + attention is a massive wall, or the remains of one, which enclose the most + of the space. It was evidently a stronghold in its time, and was defended + by bastions and towers, and gateways, one of which is still standing. + There are the foundations of houses, some of them of considerable size, + and we have no hesitation in accepting the statement that a strong and + important town once stood here. There are cisterns hewn in the solid rock, + and they have continued their uses down to the present time. We are + permitted to slake our thirst with water, drawn from one of these cisterns—cisterns + from which men have drank in all ages, from the days of Moses to the + present time. Barak drank here when he assembled the hosts of Napthali to + attack Sisera, the captain of Jabin’s army; Joshua and Gideon may + have stood by this very well; here stood the Crusaders when they advanced + upon Jerusalem, and here a few years later Saladin may have rested, as he + exulted over the victory that expelled the hated Christian from the land. + If we are imaginative, we can picture a kaleidoscope of warriors, who fill + the pages of sacred and profane history and stalk before us like the line + of Banquo’s Kings, which the witches <span class="pagenum">344</span><a + name="link344" id="link344"></a>revealed to Macbeth, and if, like the + “Doubter,” we are unimaginative and do not believe, or care + for anything, we will eat our cold chicken and boiled eggs, and say + nothing. + </p> + <p> + The best view of this part of Palestine is obtained from Mount Tabor. The + plain of Esdraelon is before us, or rather below us, and we can + contemplate its undulations, its stipples of villages, its dark dots of + trees, its ravines and its bright verdure—if the season is + propitious—as we contemplate from our easy chair the figures upon + our carpet. On the East we see the valley of the Jordan and the mountains + of Gilead, rising like a long and rugged wall from the deep clift where + the river flows. Hermon and the range of Lebanon fill the north and the + ruin-crowned summit of Safed—the holy mount of the Jews where was + “the city set upon the hill,” is full before us. In the West + is Mount Carmel, the scene of Elijah s sacrifice—reverenced alike by + Jew, Christian, and Moslem through all ages down to the present day. No + other place disputes the honor, and Carmel is destined to possess it for + all time to come. + </p> + <p> + South of us we have the mountain of Little Hermon, with the villages of + Nain and Endor and other villages not far away. On the plain below were + fought the battles of Barak and Sisera, and the guide points out the spot + where the hosts were assembled. + </p> + <p> + In another direction he points out the scene of the battle of Hattin + where, nearly seven hundred years ago, the Crusaders were defeated, and + their hold upon Palestine was broken. Both armies were in full force; that + of the Christians was led by the King of Jerusalem, and that of the + Moslems by the great Saladin. The Christian army came to this plain and + encamped there without water and greatly fatigued by their march. The + Moslem army attacked them at dawn, and all day the battle continued. At + its end the Christians had been overpowered with a loss of thirty thousand + men. The remnant of the army fled to Acre, but the King was captured, + together with the Grand Master of the Templars and Raynauld of Chatillon. + </p> + <p> + Saladin had threatened to put to death, with his own hand, this Raynauld + through whose treachery the war had been brought on. He treated the other + captives with the respect which their rank deserved, but showed the utmost + contempt for Raynauld, + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">345</span><a name="link345" id="link345"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0135" id="linkimage-0135"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0357.jpg" alt="0357 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0357.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">347</span><a name="link347" id="link347"></a>towards + whom he kept his word. Raynauld was executed; the other prisoners were + liberated and allowed honorable escort out of the country. Saladin was a + noble old warrior, and he had the instincts of a gentleman, though he + never wore a dress-coat and kid gloves, and did not understand how to + dance the German or escort a lady to the opera. + </p> + <p> + Mount Tabor disputes with Hermon the honor of the Transfiguration. The + tradition which locates it here dates from the fourth century, and was + then generally believed. Churches and convents were erected on the summit + of Tabor, and many pilgrimages were made there, and when the Crusaders + came to Palestine they established a monastery there, and gave its abbot + the authority of a bishop. The Greek monks come here in procession from + Nazareth, on the occasion of the Feast of the Virgin, and the Latin monks + have a festival, once a year, in honor of the Transfiguration. The exact + location which the monks give for the miraculous event is near the + southeastern angle of the fortifications, where a vault has been fitted up + as an altar. + </p> + <p> + We descend from Tabor in the direction of Nazareth, and a ride of two + hours from the summit brings us to our camp. The road is crooked and + narrow, and winds among forests of oaks and tangles of brush, until within + a mile or more of Nazareth, when we get among bare hills. A little out of + our way is the dirty village of Deburich, on the site of Dabareth, which + is mentioned twice in the Old Testament. There is nothing attractive about + the place; it has the repulsive features of most of the Syrian villages, + and you wonder how the natives manage to live, or even wish to do so. They + discuss the “backsheesh” question with us, and we have the + whole perambulating mass of dirt, rags, and sores adhering to us from the + moment we enter the place until we are a quarter of a mile away. We set + them upon the “Doubter,” by giving them to understand that he + is the cashier of the party, but unfortunately they don’t stick to + him long enough to give the rest of us any peace. + </p> + <p> + There are several objects of interest here connected with the life of + Christ. The guide takes us to the Virgin’s Fountain, and to the + church and convent erected over the grotto which is said to have been the + dwelling place of the Holy Family. The town <span class="pagenum">348</span><a + name="link348" id="link348"></a>is situated in some ravines and along some + ridges on the side of a hill overlooking the plain of Esdraelon, and the + buildings appear to have been dropped down higgledy-piggledy, without any + regard for regularity. The houses are better than those of many Syrian + villages, as they are built of stone and are kept clean in all the places + where dirt cannot accumulate. But they are repulsive enough inside, and + one needs a pair of stilts to enable him to walk through the streets + without soiling his boots. + </p> + <p> + The population is variously estimated—no census is ever taken—at + from three to four thousand. Only about seven hundred of these are + Moslems; the rest are Christians of three or four kinds, with the addition + of a few Jews, who must be very unhappy among so many people of a + different faith. But, taken altogether, the inhabitants are not a pleasing + lot, and as you look at them, you do not wonder that the question was once + asked, “Can any good thing come out of Nazareth?” + </p> + <p> + Nazareth was unknown in history until the Annunciation. The event has been + commemorated by the erection of a Latin convent, where a Greek church once + stood over the site of the house of Mary. + </p> + <p> + The convent is of considerable extent, and has a massive exterior, + followed by equal massiveness within. The church is about seventy feet + square in its interior dimensions, and the roof is supported by strong + piers, which are covered, as are also the walls, with paintings + representing scriptural scenes. A flight of steps, fifteen in number, + leads down to the chapel beneath the church, and in this chapel the scene + of the Annunciation is located. + </p> + <p> + You first enter a vestibule about twenty-five feet by ten, and from this + we enter the sanctum, which is of about the same dimensions. It contains a + marble altar and a marble slab, with a cross upon it, which marks the spot + where the Virgin stood at the time of the Annunciation. They show us a + marble column cut in two, one part apparently suspended from the roof and + the other a little way below it, and resting on the floor. The monks + solemnly tell us, that the invading infidels cut through this column, in + the hope of bringing down the roof, but a miracle interposed to uphold the + column and has kept it there to this day. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">349</span><a name="link349" id="link349"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0136" id="linkimage-0136"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0361.jpg" alt="0361 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0361.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">351</span><a name="link351" id="link351"></a>Then + they take us into a grotto back of the altar and up a staircase into the + Virgin’s kitchen, which is only a small cave, and must have been a + very poor sort of kitchen at best. The monks manifest much veneration for + the Sacred Grotto, and pious people from Christian lands have made + handsome donations for the support of the church at Nazareth. As the + church stands over the site of the house of Mary, the “Doubter” + demands to see the house. The guide tells him that it is gone, and while + he is trying to make his statement understood, one of the English speaking + monks puts in a word: + </p> + <p> + “You should understand,” he says, “that the house is at + Loretta, in Italy, and that Loretto is called the Nazareth of Italy. It is + the house that was here once, the real house of the Virgin Mary.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, but how did it get there?” asked the “Doubter.” + </p> + <p> + “Who moved it, and how was it done? I don’t believe you could + move one of these stone houses all the way to Italy.” + </p> + <p> + “Ah, there is the miracle, and I will tell you,” says the + monk, and he begins to rattle away as though he had committed the story to + memory from a guide book. + </p> + <p> + “The house stood here for hundreds of years, and then it happened + that the Moslems defeated the Christians in battle, and threatened to + destroy everything in Nazareth. They were camped in the plain, and sent an + army up here. Just as the army came to the edge of the town, some angels + came down and took the house away. They carried it to Europe, and set it + down on a hill near Fiume, in Dalmatia, and then, when it was found that + the place wasn’t safe, they took it away to Loretto, and there it is + now.” + </p> + <p> + “Very strange,” says the “Doubter,” “very + strange. And do they do this sort of thing often?” + </p> + <p> + “Not often,” replies the monk. “You see it was a + miracle; and if they performed miracles every day they wouldn’t be + miracles.” + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” says he doesn’t believe a word of it, and + turns away. The monk continues his account, and says: + </p> + <p> + “There can be no doubt that the house is in Italy, and that it was + moved by a miracle. It was known to be there more than <span + class="pagenum">352</span><a name="link352" id="link352"></a>four hundred + years ago, and the Pope, Leo X, told all about it in a papal bull, in the + year 1518, and authenticated it so that there could be no chance for any + body to disbelieve.” + </p> + <p> + Of course, there could be no chance after this. Dean Stanley thus explains + this matter: + </p> + <p> + “Nazareth was taken by Sultan Kalil in 1291, when he stormed the + last refuge of the Crusaders in the neighboring city of Acre. From that + time, not Nazareth only, but’ the whole of Palestine, was closed to + the devotions of Europe. The Crusaders were expelled from Asia, and in + Europe the spirit of the Crusades was extinct. But the natural longing to + see the scenes of the events of the sacred history—the superstitious + craving to win for prayer the favor of consecrated localities—did + not expire with the Crusades. Can we wonder that, under such + circumstances, there should have arisen the feeling, the desire, the + belief, that if Mahomet could not go to the mountain, the mountain must + come to Mahomet? The House of Loretto is the petrifaction, so to speak, of + the ‘last sigh of the Crusades.’” + </p> + <p> + From the Church of the Annunciation we are taken through some of the dirty + streets and alleys, to Joseph’s workshop—a modern building + fitted up as a chapel and held by the Latin monks. The structure is + modern, but they show an old wall, or a fragment of it, in the interior, + and this is quite sufficient. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” asks for Joseph’s tool-chest, and insists + upon seeing it. They compromise the matter by bringing an axe of a very + modern pattern, and bearing the word ‘Birmingham’ on the + helve. This might do for one of the faithful, but the “Doubter” + won’t swallow it, (not the axe, but the story,) in spite of the + urgent assurance of the rest of us that it is all right. + </p> + <p> + Then they take us to “the Table of Christ,” where, according + to tradition, our Saviour sat frequently with his disciples, both before + and after the resurrection. It is only a table-shaped rock, about three + feet high, and a chapel has been built over it. + </p> + <p> + The rivalry between the Greek and Latin churches is very bitter, and the + monks at Nazareth tell some hard stories about each other. Their + traditions do not agree in many points, and they are very tenacious about + them. Thus, the Greeks claim that the angel’s first salutation to + Mary was at the fountain, on <span class="pagenum">353</span><a + name="link353" id="link353"></a>the eastern side of the village, where she + went often to draw water. It is called the Fountain of the Virgin, and the + Greeks have erected a church over it and called it the Church of the + Annunciation. In order to be impartial to the Greeks and Latins, every + traveller should visit both churches. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0137" id="linkimage-0137"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0365.jpg" alt="0365 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0365.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The fountain is interesting, as affording a study of the habits of the + people. The young women, and old ones too, come there to draw water and + gossip and make eyes at the young men, tell all the late scandals, discuss + the fashions, and display their pride, envy, friendliness, humility, and + all the other sentiments and emotions that can be exhibited at such a + place. How the gossiping tongues must have wagged at this fountain + eighteen hundred years ago! and didn’t they criticise Mary and her + family? The pretty, bare-footed girl who came daily to the fountain, to + fill her jar, which she poised on her head before tripping gracefully home<span + class="pagenum">354</span><a name="link354" id="link354"></a>ward, little + dreaming that she was to be the mother of one who should preach salvation + to the world and found a religion to be embraced by all the civilized + nations on the globe. + </p> + <p> + But we will leave Nazareth and wend our way southward. + </p> + <p> + We ride to Endor over a rough and rather dreary road, that winds over + hills and through glens where robbers might waylay us, and where men have + been waylaid on many occasions. In this part of the country murders are + not infrequent, and are caused chiefly by feuds between tribes and + families. Some of these feuds date back hundreds of years, and are based + on the Scriptural theory of blood-revenge. Centuries ago there may have + been a quarrel between two men, about some trivial matter, and the quarrel + may have gone on till one of the men killed the other. Then a relative of + the murdered man killed the murderer or one of his family, then this + killing was avenged, then this, and then this; so it has gone and will go + on, until one family is annihilated, and possibly both, and very often the + feud extends to the different tribes. It is for this reason so many men go + about with guns and pistols and eye each other so cautiously. + </p> + <p> + Nearly everybody, to use the vernacular of California, is “hunting + for a man,” and sooner or later he finds him, or is found. It is + rather respectable than otherwise to die with one’s boots on, here, + just as it used to be in Arizona; and it is currently reported that when a + man thinks he has had about enough of his native Syria, and has no row on + his hands, he goes and kills somebody, so that this somebody’s + relatives will turn to and kill <i>him</i>. He is thus able to accomplish + two things—he can die like a gentleman, with the satisfaction of + knowing that he has put somebody else out of the world in an equally + gentlemanly way. And moreover, he bequeaths a legacy of blood-revenge to + his descendants, that will give them something to occupy their minds with, + and prevents the country becoming peopled too densely for comfort. + </p> + <p> + Endor is an uninteresting village, of not more than twenty-five houses, + and it is the same thing over again—dirt, rags, and wretchedness—such + as we have seen all the way along. We have had enough of it—let us + move on. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">355</span><a name="link355" id="link355"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0138" id="linkimage-0138"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0367.jpg" alt="0367 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0367.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII—THE LAND OF THE PHILISTINES.—SAMARIA AND ITS + PEOPLE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The City of Nain—“Spoiling the Egyptians”—Ruins + of an old Philistine City—Curious Strategy—The Torches in + Pitchers—Kleber and the Turks—Ahab’s Palace—Tropical + Picture—A Crusader’s Church—More “Backsheesh”—The + Samaritans of To-day—The Mount of Blessings and the Mount of + Cursings—A Despised People—A Strange Religious Belief—A + Parchment Thirty-five Centuries Old—Jacob’s Well—Its + Present Appearance—The Tomb of Joseph—The Scene of Jacob’s + Dream—The Philistines’ Raid.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span> RIDE of less than + an hour from Endor takes us to Nain, the “City” of Christ’s + time, but now a small village. The ruins show that the place was once + important, and the guides point out the old cemetery, at whose gate the + miracle is located. + </p> + <p> + As we ride on, we pass the valley of Jezreel, a fertile spot, which might + be made productive in the hands of some other people than these lazy, + shiftless Syrians. The inhabitants are a mixed lot, as they include, + besides the regular hash of Moslems, Christians, and Jews, a colony of + Egyptians brought here by Ibrahim Pasha. These fellows were put here, + because of the richness of the soil, and the stern old warrior thought he + had given them a good thing. But they have an impression that it is more + honorable to steal than to work, and consequently make it rather + disagreeable for their neighbors. The latter get even with them, by making + occasional raids in return, and justifying themselves by some remark or + other about “spoiling the Egyptians.” From what I can learn of + their history, I think these Egyptians were pretty well spoiled before + they came to Syria. <span class="pagenum">356</span><a name="link356" + id="link356"></a>By going a little out of way we can visit Beisan, the + ancient Bethshean, whose ruins cover an area nearly three miles in + circumference. It was a city of temples; four of these can be distinctly + traced in one group, and others are scattered around promiscuously. + Bethshean was of Phoenician origin, and was the principal abiding place of + the Philistine god, Dagon. The citadel stood on the hill, overlooking the + city, and on its walls the Philistines hung up the bodies of Saul and + Jonathan. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter,” on hearing this, looks for the bodies, and + unable to find them, refuses to believe any part of the story. + </p> + <p> + Below the citadel is the theatre, semi-circular in shape, and nearly two + hundred feet in diameter. Tradition says that Julian, the Apostate, used + to give <i>matinée</i> performances here to his friends, at which he + occasionally had a lot of Christians cut up. They were popular for a time, + but the shrieks of the victims interfered so much with the conversation in + the boxes and with peanut-selling in the galleries, that the show had to + be given up. + </p> + <p> + There is a large fountain—Ain-Jalud—in this valley, where + Gideon is said to have fought his celebrated battle with the Midianites, + described in the Old Testament, when he ordered his men to conceal their + torches in pitchers, which they were to break when the proper signal was + given. It was one of the best pieces of strategy on record, and was + brilliantly successful. + </p> + <p> + Several battles have been fought in this valley and in its neighborhood. + The latest was that between the French and Turkish armies in 1799. Gen. + Kleber had moved from Nazareth to attack the Turks, and was met by the + enemy near the village of Fuleh. + </p> + <p> + He formed his army into squares, with artillery at the angles, and in this + way resisted the charges of cavalry for six long hours. He had three + thousand men and the Turks were fifteen thousand strong, but the effective + fire of the French held the enemy in check, in spite of their determined + bravery. At the end of six hours, Napoleon arrived with fresh cavalry and + infantry and attacked the Turks on flank and rear. Thus surrounded, the + latter became panic stricken, and retired in disorder, with heavy loss. + </p> + <p> + It was the discipline of Kleber’s division and its powers of + continued resistance, that gave the victory to the French. + </p> + <p> + We soon arrive at the modern village of Sebustieh, which <span + class="pagenum">357</span><a name="link357" id="link357"></a>stands on the + site of Samaria and has a population of four or five hundred Moslems, + badly disposed towards strangers. The Crusaders built a church here and + dedicated it to St. John, but it has been converted into a mosque, that + cannot be entered without the use of the magical “backsheesh.” + And this has to be applied skillfully, to avoid offense; a very good way + is to take the keeper of the mosque into your confidence and do the + “backsheesh” business through him Give him a fair allowance of + piasters to distribute to the crowd after you have gone, and he will + generally set his cudgel at work among them. He is an honorable man, and + you can feel certain that he will faithfully distribute the money—to + himself. Samaria was a fine city in its time, and the ruins that cover the + hill confirm the accounts of the historians. Many of the stones of the old + temples and colonnades have been built into the walls and terraces of the + modern town so that the extent of the city is not perceptible to a casual + observer. + </p> + <p> + From Nazareth to Nablous, we cross the basin just described, and climb a + long ascent to the crest of a ridge. Thence our road is through glens and + over hills, but it is less rough than most of the routes we have + heretofore traveled. Nablous is a city of about eight thousand + inhabitants. This is the ancient Shechem, which was assigned to the + Levites and made a city of refuge—a place where a man who had + murdered anybody or otherwise shocked the fastidiousness of his neighbors, + could live a virtuous and respectable life and be safe from harm. No + extradition treaty could touch him, and he might hope in course of time, + to become mayor or alderman in his new home, and have a finger in the city + treasury. The authorities used to try the refugees who came there, and, in + case of wilful murder, the fellows were delivered up to justice. But if + the trials were anything like those of murderers in olden times, it was a + pretty safe thing for a man to get into a city of refuge, as he could + plead accident and insanity, especially the latter, and get off without + trouble. + </p> + <p> + Shechem, or Nablous, is chiefly interesting to-day as the residence of the + Samaritans; there are considerably less than two hundred of them and they + live now, as they did in Christ’s time, and long before it, + following the same occupations, obeying the <span class="pagenum">358</span><a + name="link358" id="link358"></a>same laws and worshipping after the + ancient manner. We read in the New Testament that “the Jews have no + dealings with the Samaritans,” and the statement applies at this day + and hour as it did when these words were written. + </p> + <p> + Down to a few centuries ago, there were colonies of Samaritans in three or + four of the Oriental cities, but they have all disappeared except this one + at Nablous. They date from the Assyrian conquest of Israel and the + carrying of the people into captivity. They came from the East, to settle + in the deserted cities, and added to their own religion some features of + Jewish worship. Rejected by the Jews, they determined to have a temple of + their own, and they erected it upon Mount Gerizim, one of the hills + overlooking Shechem. They go there now, as they have always done, to + celebrate the Feast of the Passover, and follow the mode prescribed in the + twelfth Chapter of Exodus. Six lambs are roasted after the ancient method* + and eaten by the people, and no infidel Christian, Jew, or Moslem is + allowed to touch any of the meat or any part of the culinary apparatus. + They accept the first five books of the Bible as their gospel, but reject + all others; they accept Moses as the only law-giver, believe that a + Messiah is to come, believe in the resurrection of the body, and in a + state of future rewards and punishments, and they keep all the feasts and + fasts enjoined in the Pentateuch. They also keep the feast of Purim, on + the ground that it celebrates the journey of Moses to Egypt to deliver the + Israelites, and not as the Jews celebrate it for the release of their + people by Queen Esther. + </p> + <p> + What a strange people! The only remaining adherents of a faith that was + once wide spread through Syria—a link binding us to the mystic past, + and carrying us back more than thirty centuries of time. They are born, + they live, they think, they worship, they die as their ancestors have done + for more than a hundred generations. To them the present is a dream, the + past the only reality. + </p> + <p> + They have a synagogue, and by dint of energy and “backsheesh,” + we may visit it. They show us the famous Samaritan Codex, the copy of the + Pentateuch, which is said to be the oldest MS. copy in existence. It is on + parchment, about fifteen inches wide and twenty-five yards long, and is + much defaced and injured + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">359</span><a name="link359" id="link359"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0139" id="linkimage-0139"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0371.jpg" alt="0371 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0371.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">361</span><a name="link361" id="link361"></a>by time + and handling. There has been much discussion concerning this parchment, + and many pages have been written to prove or disprove its antiquity. The + Samaritans claim that it is thirty-five hundred years old, and they give + the name of the writer, but he is not there now to swear to the truth of + the statement. As Sergeant Buzfuz would say, “his is in itself + suspicious.” That it is very ancient there is no doubt, and the + reader may take his choice as to date of manufacture. The “Doubter” + says that he saw in the parchment the watermark “Eagle Mills”—Jones + and Smith, encircling a flying eagle with a shield in his claws. But I don’t + believe him. + </p> + <p> + We pass Gibeah, the ancient Geba, and next come to Bethel, now called + Beitin, where Jacob lay down, as you see the Arabs lying now, with the + earth for a bed and a stone for his pillow, and dreamed that he saw a + ladder reaching to Heaven, and angels ascending and descending upon it. + Abraham pitched his tent here, and here was buried Deborah, the nurse of + Rachel, under an oak tree, which Jacob had chosen. + </p> + <p> + We pass Ramah, a heap of ruins, in which a modern village is huddled. Its + inhabitants have no higher object than the extortion of “backsheesh” + from travellers, and they keep up a steady din of supplications as long as + we are in their vicinity. We pass out of the fertile country and come + again among the limestone hills, the eternal hills “round about + Jerusalem” We are looking anxiously for the Holy City, and finally, + as the sun is sinking and the approaching night spreads the shadows over + the glens and valleys, we climb the crest of Scopus and look away toward a + rounded mountain, crowned with a monastery. + </p> + <p> + This is the Mount of Olives; nearer to us, and at its feet lies a city + with grey walls and with domes and minarets rising above them. Do we need + to be told that we are gazing upon Jerusalem? + </p> + <p> + We halt a moment at the Damascus gate. From one of the Arabs that gather + about us, let us borrow the Enchanted Carpet, which may have belonged to + his ancestor, celebrated in the Arabian Nights. Seating ourselves upon it, + we utter a wish to return to Damascus, and behold, in an instant we are + once more in the court-yard of Dimitri’s hotel. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">362</span><a name="link362" id="link362"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0140" id="linkimage-0140"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0374.jpg" alt="0374 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0374.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII—FROM DAMASCUS TO JAFFA.—INCIDENTS OF THE TRIP. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Once More in Damascus—Taking the “Short Route”—Starting + for Beyrout—The Fountains of Damascus—Rain-Storm in the + Anti-Lebanon—Stora and its Model Hotel—Poetical Fancies—A + Compliment to Mine Host—The “Doubter” as a Rhymist—Climbing + Mount Lebanon—Tropic Suns and Arctic Snows—View from the + Summit—A Vision of Fairy-Land—Coming Down on the Double-Quick—In + Sight of the Mediterranean—Taking Ship for Jaffa—Sidon to a + Modern Tourist—Tyre—Jaffa—A Dangerous Roadstead.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E have done with + Damascus and the country beyond it; we have studied the road to Palmyra + and Bagdad, and the overland route to Jerusalem; we have seen the bazaars, + the fountains, the slave market, the mosques and the churches, and we have + looked from the Salahiyeh hills when the setting sun was gilding the domes + and towers of the city. Our carriage is waiting to bear us away to + Beyrout, where we will “take ship for Jaffa,” as did the men + of Solomon many centuries ago. + </p> + <p> + We started out of Damascus in a pouring rain, but we didn’t think it + would be much of a shower, and kept on. Just outside, we crossed a bridge + over the Abana, or rather over one of its seven branches, and then + followed the stream upward for a few miles. The Abana formerly flowed in a + single stream; the founders of Damascus determined to utilize it for + beautifying the city, and well did they perform their work. Here and + there, as you ascend the stream, you see dams thrown across to direct + first one portion and then another, and from these dams there are + artificial canals, sometimes tunneled through the rock, and all <span + class="pagenum">363</span><a name="link363" id="link363"></a>leading + toward the cluster of domes, and minarets, and roofs that mark the + locality of the city. + </p> + <p> + Through all parts of Damascus the Abana is carried in divisions and + subdivisions, now in open channels and now in aqueducts concealed beneath + the street. Fountains foam and bubble at every street corner and sparkle + in every dwelling; water, clear, bright, and beautiful, is everywhere, and + man or beast has no need to thirst. + </p> + <p> + It is this abundance of water that has created much of the fame of + Damascus and made it attractive in the eyes of travellers. Beyond Damascus + is the desert, without water or verdure; all around, east, west, north, + and south, the country is rugged, and more or less barren. + </p> + <p> + The traveller from Bagdad, from Mecca, from Aleppo, and from other points, + has wandered over treeless wastes, where rock and sand are the only + objects to greet his eye, and the only water to quench his thirst is the + hot and brackish liquid carried in goat skins at his saddle bow. After + long and weary days he arrives at Damascus, embowered in gardens, and at + every step through her streets he sees a fountain. Is it any wonder that + he considers Damascus as second only to Paradise? + </p> + <p> + The rain didn’t stop, as we had expected. It kept coming steadily + during the six hours—that seemed long enough for sixty—between + Damascus and Stora. + </p> + <p> + We warmed and dried ourselves as best we could before going to bed, but + there was a good deal of moisture in our clothes when we got up in the + morning. We didn’t feel particularly gay, especially as the morning + was cold and the rain was continuing, but there was nothing to do but to + push on. The steamer was due at Beyrout that day, and would leave in the + evening, and if we missed her we should be stuck there for ten days. + </p> + <p> + We wrote in the visitors’ book some complimentary things about the + hotel at Stora before we went to bed in the evening. One was a macaronic + verse, the first line English, the second French, the third German, and + the fourth Spanish. This was the combined effort of the party; then the + Judge and I broke into verse as follows: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + “At Stora we, half dozen tourists, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Have fared unexpectedly well, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + For hostess and host, we, as jurists, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Declare they <i>can</i> keep a hotel.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">364</span><a name="link364" id="link364"></a>Then + the “Doubter,” remembering the hardships of his ride to and + from Baalbek, broke out with a nursery rhyme like this: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + “We went up from Baalbek to Stora, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + And, riding, grew sorer and sorer. + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + This rough land of the Prophet, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + If I ever get off it, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Sure, I’ll not come again, begorra!” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + We had suspected that the “Doubter” was of Hibernian origin, + and now we knew it. He owned up and said that his ancestors were among the + Kings of Tipperary. But his poetic production did not find a place in the + book, for the reason that it was not complimentary to the country, and did + not reflect the opinions of the rest of the party. + </p> + <p> + Up we went on the eastern slope of Mount Lebanon, the air growing colder, + and the clouds enveloping us more and more densely as we ascended. I sat + on the box and shivered, and vowed not to be caught again in such a + scrape. By-and-by we were at the summit. There was an inch or so of snow + on the road, and more on the rocks, and the wind was sharp enough to shave + with. I was chattering like a magpie, and would have given something for a + cup of hot tea, or something that would warm me. Kalil pointed to the sea, + which just then appeared below us through a rift in the clouds, and its + reflection in the warm sunlight was something pleasing to look upon. + </p> + <p> + It was a long way down—fifty-six hundred feet—but we were good + for it. Kalil turned down the brake a little, not enough to prevent the + turning of the wheels, and not enough to keep back the horses, who went on + at full speed. Now the air grew warmer, now the clouds broke away and fled + over the mountain top, now the snow grew thinner and soon disappeared, now + we could see Beyrout hovering like a bird over the land that skirts the + bay, and looking bright and genial in the warm sunlight. The Mediterranean + rippled and sparkled in the sunlight; far out on the water we could see + stipples of white sails, and here and there we could discover the long, + dark streaks on the horizon that marked the path of a steamer. The waves + broke over the rocky beach with + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">365</span><a name="link365" id="link365"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0141" id="linkimage-0141"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0377.jpg" alt="0377 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0377.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">367</span><a name="link367" id="link367"></a>an + uneven surge, and a silver thread widening as it advanced its winding way + among the rocks showed us where lay the river that reaches the sea just + north of the city. + </p> + <p> + Winter was left behind as we descended the mountain at a break-neck pace; + spring opened upon us, and soon the spring was succeeded by the warmth of + summer. We were once more among the palm trees; oranges and citrons + twinkled on the branches that bore them, and reflected back the golden + light of a Syrian sun. The dim lines on the water developed into waves; + the ships, at first faintly outlined, revealed all the details of spars + and rigging, and the confused mass clinging to the land and marking the + locality of Beyrout developed into the many colored domes, and towers, and + roofs of an Oriental city; and as we drew rein at the door of the hotel, + close to the water’s edge, we forgot our troubles, and breathed an + atmosphere warm and invigorating as September. + </p> + <p> + It was rather rough when we went on board the steamer which was to take us + to Jaffa, and the wind increased during the night, so that by morning it + was a respectable gale. The steamer was to start at daybreak, and stop at + Caifa, half way to Jaffa, but the wind was so high that she didn’t + go. She started once, but the sea was so rough that the captain hesitated + and came to anchor again. We contemplated Beyrout that day and part of the + next, and we had a similar contemplation of Caifa. The agent came out in a + boat, and said he could not get a single lighter to venture out, as there + was a very heavy sea breaking on the shore. So without landing or + receiving any freight, we departed; some passengers went ashore, among + them several who had tickets for Jaffa, but were fearful that they would + not be able to land there. Among the deck passengers were several Jews who + were coming to Palestine to settle and make their fortunes. The story that + the Rothschilds had bought Palestine from Turkey, or rather had taken it, + as a collateral for a loan which Turkey could not pay, was current among + them. + </p> + <p> + We passed between Beyrout and Caifa, the port of Saida, the ancient Sidon, + which disputed with Tyre the mastery of the seas. It was once a great + city; now it is a dirty, ill-kept town, with a population of not more than + eight or nine thousand, and <span class="pagenum">368</span><a + name="link368" id="link368"></a>with a commerce so insignificant that it + does not pay the steamers to call there. Where it formerly boasted an + extensive fleet, it has not now a single vessel larger than a fishing + boat! + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0142" id="linkimage-0142"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0381.jpg" alt="0381 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0381.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We pass in front of Tyre, one of the oldest, as it was once one of the + most powerful cities of the East. It has been many times destroyed and + rebuilt, and a careful investigator can find the remains of at least a + dozen different cities either in its ruins or in the historic accounts. At + present there are less than four thousand inhabitants, Christian and + Moslem, in the proportion of half and half. + </p> + <p> + Jaffa has always borne a bad reputation on the score of safety, as it has + no port where ships can lie, and is not even protected by projecting + headlands Its harbor is an open roadstead, and if <span class="pagenum">369</span><a + name="link369" id="link369"></a>the wind blows from the south or west, or + any point of compass between them, boats cannot venture out on account of + the heavy surf. In summer the weather is generally favorable, but not + always so, while in winter it is about an even wager for or against + communication between ship and shore. Our captain said that in some + winters he had been able to land at Jaffa every trip, and in other winters + he could not land at all. I heard of one man who wanted to go to + Jerusalem, and had gone past Jaffa five times unable to land there. And I + heard a dragoman say that he had gone to Jaffa nine times, and never + failed to land each time. You see the difference between good and ill + luck. + </p> + <p> + If we had arrived on any of the previous eight days, we would have been + unfortunate; two steamers had gone past in that time, one of them with + three hundred pilgrims for Jerusalem, which were carried to Port Said, and + would be brought back from there. But the morning we sighted Jaffa the + weather was propitious, and as we cast anchor the ship was soon surrounded + by boats ready to take the passengers ashore. We lost no time, as we were + fearful a wind might arise and detain us, and so we closed our bargain for + transportation to land at the usual rate of one franc for each person, + including our baggage. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0143" id="linkimage-0143"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5382.jpg" alt="5382 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5382.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">370</span><a name="link370" id="link370"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0144" id="linkimage-0144"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0383.jpg" alt="0383 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0383.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0029" id="link2HCH0029"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIX—ENGAGING A DRAGOMAN.—OUR START FOR JERUSALEM. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Views of Jaffa—A queer-looking City—The Oldest Inhabited + Town in the World—The Massacre of Jaffa—A Stain upon the + Memory of Napoleon—A Contract with a Dragoman—A close margin—The + value of Credentials—An honest Arab—Getting into Saddle—An + American Colony—Their German Successors—The Fruits of the + Country—Generous conduct of the “Doubter”—On the + road to Jerusalem—A night at Ramleh—In a Russian Convent—The + Gauntlet of Beggars—The Pest of the Road—Begging as a Fine Art—The + “Gate of the Glen”—Among the Mountain Passes—In + sight of the Holy City.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">J</span>AFFA presents a + curiously terraced appearance, when seen from the water, and its flat + roofs and low arches show its Syrian character. There is a semi-circle of + rough rocks that form a sort of harbor for small boats, and it requires + good steering to carry a boat through the entrance, only ten feet wide, + without accident. The surf breaks violently when the wind is high, and + makes a landing or embarkation dangerous. The town looks more beautiful a + mile or two away than when close at hand. + </p> + <p> + The landing place was dirty, and crowded with all sorts of unclean Arabs, + and the streets were crooked, narrow, and so full of mud and dirt as to + make walking a serious matter. Traditionally, Jaffa is the oldest city in + the world; it is said to have existed before the flood, and it is likewise + recorded as very old by history. It was one of the towns allotted to the + tribe of Dan, and is mentioned as the landing-place of the rafts of cedar + and pine from Lebanon for the construction of Solomon’s temple. + </p> + <p> + It was an important place at the time of the Crusades, but gradually + dwindled in commercial and other consequence. Napoleon + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">371</span><a name="link371" id="link371"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0145" id="linkimage-0145"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0384.jpg" alt="0384 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0384.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">373</span><a name="link373" id="link373"></a>caused + it to be talked about at the beginning of the present century, by his + massacre of the garrison of four thousand men, who had surrendered on + condition that their lives should be spared. + </p> + <p> + We proceeded with our baggage to the German hotel, followed by a bodyguard + of dragomen and guides similar to those that had escorted us at Beyrout, + and animated with the same noble ambition to make contracts that should + transfer money from our pockets to theirs. As soon as we were at the hotel + we held an audience of dragomen, and finally selected one that seemed to + answer our purpose. As a matter of precaution, we went with him to the + German Consul—the American Consul was out of town—and bidding + him wait at the door, we consulted the man of authority. He pronounced the + dragoman good, and we closed with him, on the Consul’s + recommendation. He was to take us on a nine days’ trip to Jerusalem, + Bethlehem, Mar Saba, the Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, and Ramleh, at an + expense of twenty francs for each person per day. + </p> + <p> + He was to provide all requisites for the journey; three double tents—one + for each two persons—servants, beds, food, English saddles, side + saddle for the lady, saddle and pack horses, and to pay all hotel and + convent expenses, and supply local guides in Jerusalem; he was to provide + sufficient escort when needed, and to pay all fees and “backsheesh” + of every kind, except at the Mosque of Omar. The party was to be at + liberty to change the route, and to stop whenever it chose. The horses + were to be sound, strong, kind, and active, and if any of them were + disabled, the dragoman was to provide suitable substitutes without extra + charge. In case of dispute, the matter could be referred to the German or + American Consul at Jaffa or Jerusalem. + </p> + <p> + While on the road, the food should consist of tea or coffee in the + morning, with eggs, bread, and butter; luncheon at noon, of chicken or + cold meat, eggs, bread, cheese, and dessert; and dinner as good as the + hotel dinner. In Jerusalem the party could have choice of the + Mediterranean and Damascus hotels. + </p> + <p> + Ten napoleons were to be paid at starting, and the remainder, half in + Jerusalem and half in Jaffa, on our return. <span class="pagenum">374</span><a + name="link374" id="link374"></a>Ali Solomon was the name of our dragoman, + and I will do him the credit to say that we were entirely satisfied with + him. He kept his contract more faithfully than we expected he would, and + in some points exceeded its terms. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0146" id="linkimage-0146"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9387.jpg" alt="9387 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9387.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + I don’t recommend him to anybody else, for fear he may have suffered + a change of heart, and become a rascal; men are very uncertain in this + respect. + </p> + <p> + I once had a servant whom I supposed to be honest enough to be a model for + the rising generation. He left my employ to seek fortune and turn an + honest penny elsewhere, and I gave him a ‘character’ which a + student of theology might ertvy. On the strength of my recommendation, he + obtained a situation with a gentleman, whose milk of human kindness had + not been curdled by experience. John was trusted with things in general, + and requited the confidence by stealing a hundred dollars, and then + stealing away. And no man, so far as I have heard, knoweth, to this day, + the place of his sojourn. + </p> + <p> + Since then, I have been cautious about commendations, and, for this + reason, I will only say of Ali, that <i>we</i> were entirely satisfied + with him, and believed him honest and faithful. If he robbed his next + customers of the filling of their back teeth, it is no affair of ours. + </p> + <p> + We selected horses from a large number, and very good horses they were. + About 2 o’clock we rode out of the German colony of Jaffa, which has + bought the property formerly held by the American colony from Maine. The + Germans are prospering, and promise well for the future. I was told that + the Americans <span class="pagenum">375</span><a name="link375" + id="link375"></a>might have prospered, if their affairs had been well + managed, but that their leader was about the worst head that could have + been chosen. Only four, I believe, of the American colonists remain there, + three women and one man. One woman is in a state of poverty, but I was + told that the rest were making a good living. The Germans have a good + manager at their head, and all of them are industrious. They have a second + village about two miles away from the one originally founded by the + Americans. + </p> + <p> + Through a street paved with mud and filth, and bordered by tents and + booths, where oranges and other things edible—in theory or in + practice—were exposed for sale, we moved toward the interior and + away from the sea. Orange groves were on every side, and we appreciated + the reputation of Jaffa for this excellent fruit. + </p> + <p> + Even the “Doubter” was convinced of the excellence of the + oranges, as he filled his pockets without expense, and became liberal + enough to bestow an orange upon a small boy who held his horse and wanted + a slight “backsheesh” in return. “I don’t believe + money is good for you,” he said to the boy; “you had better + take an orange.” The boy could have had all of this sort of thing + that he wanted, and indicated an objection to receiving payment in fruit, + but his objections were of no avail. + </p> + <p> + One of the “Doubter’s” strong points was in never paying + at all for small services, or in paying in something that cost him + nothing. His sympathy was roused for a poor woman in Jaffa, and as we + finished dinner he took a large orange from the table and said: “I + would like to give this to that poor woman over the way.” We + applauded his burst of generosity in giving away what belonged to the + hotel, and didn’t let him hear the last of it for a day or two. + </p> + <p> + Outside of Jaffa, the road goes over a flat or undulating country, + evidently quite fertile, excepting at intervals, where it is too sandy for + cultivation. For saddle horses the road is excellent; it is intended for a + carriage road, but has never been finished, though carriages do manage to + get over it now and then, all the way to Jerusalem. The story goes, that + when the Sultan visited Paris in 1867, the Emperor told him that Eugenie + wished to visit Jerusalem, but was unable to ride there on horseback. + <span class="pagenum">376</span><a name="link376" id="link376"></a>"There + shall be a good carriage road there in a year,” said the Sultan, and + he at once gave orders for its construction. But somehow it still remains + in an unfinished condition, and the promise to complete it within a year + is like many other promises of the Turkish ruler. + </p> + <p> + The Russians have a convent at Ramleh, for the accommodation of Russian + pilgrims to Jerusalem, and there is also a Latin convent there, under the + management of French and Italian monks. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0147" id="linkimage-0147"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9389.jpg" alt="9389 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9389.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The Latin establishment is really a convent, or rather a monastery, but + the Russian one is more like a hotel, as it is kept by a Russian family, + whereas the Latin convent is really in the hands of holy men, clad in hood + and cowl. Our dragoman rode ahead and arranged that we should stop at the + Russian convent, and sent a boy out to meet and guide us into the place. + </p> + <p> + Along the road side, as we entered, there were a lot of beggars—twenty + or more—drawn up, or rather squatted in line where they could assail + us. Some were blind, some had lost their hands or their fingers, and each + of them held up his mutilated stumps to attract attention. We were told + some of them were lepers, but that the majority had been mutilated either + by themselves or their parents in order to insure their success as + beggars. One of our party gave a small coin to the worst looking of the + mendicants, and immediately the whole crowd set in pursuit. + </p> + <p> + If you give a gratuity in Syria, you are at once pursued by all the + beggars in sight, including the one to whom you have made a donation, and + nothing short of a blow with a cudgel will shake + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">377</span><a name="link377" id="link377"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0148" id="linkimage-0148"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0390.jpg" alt="0390 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0390.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">379</span><a name="link379" id="link379"></a>them + off. This systematic begging is apt to harden one’s heart, + especially when you find it impossible to satisfy the demands of an + applicant. The government would do a charitable work if it would assemble + the beggars of Ramleh into a close room and asphyxiate them over a + charcoal fire. They have been suppressed two or three times, but are sure + to spring up again. + </p> + <p> + We were up early, and for three hours had a road very much like that of + the day before. This ride brought us to the Bab-el-Wady, or Gate of the + Glen, where there is a sort of hotel which furnishes everything for the + traveller, except food, drink, and lodging, and there is a room where you + can sit at a rickety table in a rickety chair, and eat the provisions you + have brought along. + </p> + <p> + From this so-called hotel we moved up a glen or valley with the rocks on + both sides of us, and the road making a steady ascent. We were now among + the rugged mountains that extend to and beyond Jerusalem, a dreary and + almost sterile waste, whose every aspect is forbidding. + </p> + <p> + I know of no mountain ride more dreary than that from Babel-Wady to + Jerusalem. In nearly all other mountain chains I have ever seen, you have + frequent glimpses of scenery that would partly reward for your toil, but + here there is nothing of the kind. It is a succession of rough and rounded + summits, too rocky for cultivation, and not broken enough to be + picturesque. A few villages nestle in the glens, and there are occasional + patches of olive trees, but the general aspect is one of unredeemed + sterility. + </p> + <p> + The road from Jaffa to Jerusalem is about thirty-six miles in length: + travellers generally divide it by going to Ramleh—nine miles—the + first day, and to Jerusalem the next. The ordinary time for a party unused + to travel is twelve hours; going up we made it in ten hours, and coming + back we did it in seven and a half, which was very fair speed. + </p> + <p> + We wound along the mountain road, and four hours after leaving + Bab-el-Wady, the foremost of our cortege swung his hat from one of the + rounded summits. “Jerusalem,” said the dragoman, and at the + word we pressed forward. + </p> + <p> + There lay the Holy City, as it lay when the Crusaders came hither to wrest + it from the hands of the Moslem, and as it has greeted the eyes of many a + pious pilgrim in more modern days. <span class="pagenum">380</span><a + name="link380" id="link380"></a>Its towers and walls rose before us, while + around were the everlasting hills of Israel. Tasso’s lines + describing the first view of the city by the Crusaders came involuntarily + to my mind. + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Winged is each heart, and winged every heel, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + They fly, yet notice scarce how fast they fly, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + But by the time the dewless meads reveal + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + The golden sun ascended in the sky, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Lo! towered Jerusalem salutes the eye. + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + A thousand pointing fingers tell the tale, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “Jerusalem!” a thousand voices cry; + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “All hail, Jerusalem!” hill, down, and dale + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Catch the glad sound, and shout, “Jerusalem, all hail.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a name="linkimage-0149" id="linkimage-0149"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0393.jpg" alt="0393 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0393.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The towered walls recalled the pictures of Jerusalem, with which the whole + world is familiar, and we seemed to be entering a city that we had seen + before. The Turkish soldiers at the gate made no opposition to our + entrance. Formerly strangers were kept waiting at the gate until their + passports had been sent to the j police for examination, and sometimes the + detention lasted two or three hours. A few steps inside the gate brought + us to the door of the Mediterranean Hotel, where we dismounted and made + ourselves at home. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">381</span><a name="link381" id="link381"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0150" id="linkimage-0150"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0394.jpg" alt="0394 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0394.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0030" id="link2HCH0030"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXX—THE LIONS OF JERUSALEM.—THE TEMPLE, THE SEPULCHRE, + AND THE HOLY OF HOLIES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>First Sights in Jerusalem—Appearance of the streets—What + the “Doubter” thought—A change of opinion—The + Tower of David—The Street of David—Church of the Holy + Sepulchre—Scenes around it—Palace of the Knights of St. John—Via + Dolorosa—Damascus’ Gate—Walls of the Holy City—Visiting + the Temple—The Haram and Mosque of Omar—Visaing the + Substructions—A triple veneration—Place of Wailing—The + Quarries—Remains of an Ancient Bridge.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span>S soon as we were + fairly in Jerusalem and had brushed up a little, we started out to see + some of the many sights that the city contains. + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9394.jpg" alt="9394 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9394.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0152" id="linkimage-0152"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8395.jpg" alt="8395 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8395.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Apart from its historical interest and the picturesque appearance of its + walls, towers, and domes, Jerusalem is the reverse of pleasing. Its + streets are narrow and badly paved, and no effort is made to keep them + clean. Some of the narrow ones are particularly filthy, and one must have + good boots and be careful about his steps to walk safely along these ways. + I laughed inwardly as <span class="pagenum">382</span><a name="link382" + id="link382"></a>the “Doubter” hesitated at some of the + corners and showed a determination to turn back, or rather an uncertainty + about going forward. + </p> + <p> + When we descended the Danube, we stopped a short time at Belgrade, the + capital of Servia, and standing on the frontier between the Occident and + the Orient. The pavement there was rougher than that of European cities, + and the “Doubter” doubted if there was anything worse in the + world. + </p> + <p> + “Let us hurry up,” said he, “and get to Constantinople + or Jerusalem where the streets are better.” + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">383</span><a name="link383" id="link383"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0153" id="linkimage-0153"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0396.jpg" alt="0396 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0396.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">385</span><a name="link385" id="link385"></a>"Why, + my dear “Doubter,” said I, “these are far better than + the streets in those cities. They have worse pavements and deeper mud.” + </p> + <p> + “I know better,” was his rejoinder, and that closed the + argument. I said nothing till I had him climbing the wide street that + leads from Top-Hané to the Hotel de Byzance in Constantinople, and there I + gave him a little prod about Belgrade. He got out of it by saying that he + knew Jerusalem was much better. + </p> + <p> + Naturally, I was pleased when I managed to get him between two mountains + of mud, or something of the sort, in a narrow street in Jerusalem, and + just as he was extricating himself, I asked about Belgrade. + </p> + <p> + He made no reply that I heard, but I saw his lips moving and his mental + agitation was so great that he slipped and fell where the mud was worst. + He was not presentable in polite society after that, but rather looked as + though he had been hired out by the day as a friction roller for smoothing + a freshly flowed swamp. + </p> + <p> + From the front of the hotel, one can see the Tower of David, the structure + which King David erected upon Mount Zion, according to Biblical history. + </p> + <p> + From the Jaffa gate, also called the Hebron, and the Mediterranean gate, + runs the street of David, descending the hill and subsequently ascending + another to Mount Moriah Our first walk was down the street of David to the + first turning to the left. + </p> + <p> + This took us into Christ street, and a walk of three or four minutes there + brought us, by a single turning, into the space in front of the Church of + the Holy Sepulchre. + </p> + <p> + This space was full of beggars, and of people selling various sorts of + ornaments and relics. Some had rosaries made of various kinds of wood, + generally of the olive tree or the seeds of the olive; some had crosses + and holy pictures cut in mother of pearl; and others had old coins or + stone ornaments made of pieces of the Temple of Jerusalem. The traders and + beggars were very persistent, and one could not stand a minute in + contemplation of the building without being annoyed by the one class or + the other. More than one of us wished that a scourge could be set in + motion to drive away these pests from the exterior of a building, which is + regarded with special interest by all Christian people. <span + class="pagenum">386</span><a name="link386" id="link386"></a>We could not + enter the church at that hour, and so we contented ourselves with a visit + to the hospital of the Knights of St. John, or rather to its ruins. We + walked along the Via Dolorosa and were shown the supposed spot where + Christ rested his cross, then we went along the street of the Gate of the + Column and the street of the Palace, to the Damascus Gate. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0154" id="linkimage-0154"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0399.jpg" alt="0399 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0399.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Then, as it was approaching sunset, we returned to the hotel and had a + pleasant conversation with Dr. De Hass, our newly appointed Consul to + Jerusalem. + </p> + <p> + On our way back to the hotel we stopped in two or three of the many shops + where olive wood is wrought into various interesting forms for strangers + to buy and carry away. It seemed as if about one-fifth of the inhabitants + of Jerusalem were engaged in the manufacture of objects of olive wood. + Canes, boxes, portfolios, candle-sticks, and a hundred other things were + made of olive wood, and some of them were very pretty. <span + class="pagenum">387</span><a name="link387" id="link387"></a>Jerusalem is + the same towered city as of old, and her walls have a massive appearance. + Sultan Suleiman erected them, as they now stand, in the year 1542; but + portions of them were standing before that time, and some of the towers + have undergone very little change in the various calamities which the city + has suffered. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0155" id="linkimage-0155"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8400.jpg" alt="8400 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8400.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The latter portions were built from the ruins of the older walls and + generally on the sites of their predecessors, so that the city has + preserved its form with but little alteration. + </p> + <p> + The distance around the walls is about two and a half miles, and in this + distance there are five gates; the most important of these are the Jaffa + gate and the Damascus gate, the others being but little used There are two + gates wholly or partially walled up; one of them being the Golden Gate on + Mount Moriah, and the other, the gate of Herod. The principal streets of + the city run at right angles, and by them Jerusalem is divided into the + Moslem, the Christian, the Jewish, and the American quarters. + </p> + <p> + So much for the general description of Jerusalem. + </p> + <p> + To those familiar with Bible history, the enumeration of the holy places + of Jerusalem would be to repeat many names with which they are already + familiar; to those who are not Biblical students, the list would be + tediously long; I shall therefore confine my account of Jerusalem to the + story cf what we saw and did during our brief stay. Any one wishing to + know more of the city has doubtless within his reach one or more books, + that will give the required information. A perusal of the Bible, + especially of those portions describing Jerusalem, would not prove at all + injurious. + </p> + <p> + We entered by a gate in the wall, and the transition was quite sudden from + the confused mass of houses where we had been wandering to the open space + of the Haram. We ascended a flight of steps to a broad platform, and stood + in front of Kubbet-es-Sukrah, or Dome of the Rock, as the central mosque + is called. + </p> + <p> + It is generally known as the Mosque of Omar, for the reason that the Kalif + Omar is credited with its construction. There <span class="pagenum">388</span><a + name="link388" id="link388"></a>Accompanied by a guide and by a janizary + of the consulate, we started out of the hotel in the morning and descended + the street of David to the entrance of the Haram or Sacred Enclosure, the + name given by the Arabs to the portion of Mount Moriah that contains the + Mosques of Omar and El-Aska, and formerly contained the great temple built + by King Solomon. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0156" id="linkimage-0156"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0401.jpg" alt="0401 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0401.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The Haram occupies a large space, almost equal to a fourth of the city; it + is surrounded by strong walls and is dotted with platforms, niches for + prayer, cupolas and olive trees in addition to <span class="pagenum">389</span><a + name="link389" id="link389"></a>are two or three stories about its origin, + but, whatever that may have been, the architect deserves great credit for + erecting a building beautiful in itself and quite in keeping with the + surroundings. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0157" id="linkimage-0157"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8402.jpg" alt="8402 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8402.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + It stands on the very summit of Mount Moriah on the sacred rock, supposed + to have been the site of the threshing floor of Or-nan, the Jebusite, + which King David bought for fifty shekels of silver. The building is + octagonal, and each of the sides measure sixty-seven feet. The octagonal + form is preserved in the interior, where the rock is inclosed in a railing + and rises above the level of the floor. + </p> + <p> + Unfortunately, the mosque was undergoing repairs at the time of our visit, + and the interior was full of scaffolding, while the floor was covered with + rubbish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0158" id="linkimage-0158"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9402.jpg" alt="9402 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9402.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + But we could see enough to show that the mosque is a structure of great + beauty. The lower part of the wall is composed of colored marbles in + complex patterns, and the upper part contains no less than fifty-six + windows of stained glass, equalling in beauty anything that can be found + in Westminster Abbey or the cathedrals of Europe. + </p> + <p> + The dome presents an imposing appearance, whether seen from the outside or + from within. Externally it is a prominent feature of Jerusalem, and no + picture of the holy city would be complete without it. + </p> + <p> + Antiquarians are in doubt as to the extent of the great temple, but there + is likely to be a complete solution of the difficult questions when the + work of the Palestine Exploration Society is finished. The English and + American sections are working in perfect harmony, and have portioned out + their territories so that they shall not come in contact or perform the + same work twice over. Part of their efforts are directed to settling the + discussions about the extent of Solomon’s Temple, and they have + already made some important discoveries. <span class="pagenum">390</span><a + name="link390" id="link390"></a>We were shown the localities of the + excavations, and after visiting the two mosques in the Haram we went below + ground to look at the substruction of the great temple. We descended a + flight of steps into a subterranean apartment where there is a sculptured + niche, which bears the name of “The Cradle of Jesus”. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0159" id="linkimage-0159"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9403.jpg" alt="9403 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9403.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Our guide lighted some candles, and we kept on down another flight of + steps that brought us into some vaults, containing numerous pillars about + five feet square and constructed of huge stones. The t arches supported by + these pillars were generally semi-circ ul ar, and the whole work had an + appearance of great durability. Only a portion of this subterranean space + has been explored, and the extent of the arched space is unknown. These + were for the purpose of making the ground level and thus prepare it for + the foundation of the great temple. + </p> + <p> + We were shown some roots of trees that have made their way through the + platform and run a long distance through the underground debris. The + crusaders used these vaults as stables, and some of the holes in the + pillars where they fastened their horses can still be seen. None of the + horses are there. + </p> + <p> + Jerusalem is emphatically the Holy City. It is a little singular that it + should be venerated by the disciples of three great teachers, Moses, + Christ, and Mohammed, and that while Christians + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">391</span><a name="link391" id="link391"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0160" id="linkimage-0160"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0404.jpg" alt="0404 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0404.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">393</span><a name="link393" id="link393"></a>call it + the Sacred City, the Arabs should have almost a similar title for it. Its + Arabic name <i>El-Kuds</i> signifies “The Holy,” and the rock + beneath the dome of the Mosque of Omar is the locality of the triple + veneration. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0161" id="linkimage-0161"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0406.jpg" alt="0406 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0406.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + At the south-east corner of the rock, we were conducted into a chamber or + excavation, called the Noble Cave. It is asserted to be the praying place + of Abraham, David, Solomon, and Jesus, and in its center there is a slab + of marble covering a cavity, which is called the well of spirits by the + Moslems. Some call it the gate of Paradise and others say it leads to a + place whose character is quite the reverse. The guide stamped upon it, and + the sound that resulted showed that the place was hollow. + </p> + <p> + It is generally claimed that this rock, now covered by the dome of the + mosque, was the site of the altar of Solomon’s Temple. The Jews used + to come to this rock as far back as the fourth century to wail over the + departed glories of Jerusalem; but when the Moslems took the city, and + appropriated the spot, a new wailing place was selected On one corner of + the rock the guide showed the footprints of Mohammed, where his foot last + touched the earth when he went up to heaven; and near it is the hand <span + class="pagenum">394</span><a name="link394" id="link394"></a>print of the + Angel, who seized the rock and held it down to prevent its going to heaven + along with the Prophet. + </p> + <p> + Thus the Jews revere the spot as the site of the altar of their temple; + the Christians revere it as the praying place of Jesus, and the Moslems + revere it for the reason above given. Strange indeed that it should thus + be the sacred spot of three distinct religions. No other place of the + globe compares with it in holiness. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0162" id="linkimage-0162"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0407.jpg" alt="0407 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0407.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We looked from the walls of the temple over into the Valley of Jehoshaphat + and saw Absalom’s pillar and other objects of interest. The garden + of Gethsemane was pointed out, and over against us was the Mount of Olives + with its triple summit and the crown of the Church of the Ascension, and + the building erected by the <i>Princesse de la tour l’Auvergne</i>. + The olive trees had lost their leaves and were bleak and bare, and the + sides of the hill had an uninviting appearance. + </p> + <p> + Down to the Brook Kedron our gaze extended, or rather to its bed, as the + valley was dry and dusty as if no brook had ever flowed there. Other + places of historical or traditional note were pointed out, but we were too + far away to discern them clearly. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">395</span><a name="link395" id="link395"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0163" id="linkimage-0163"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0408.jpg" alt="0408 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0408.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">397</span><a name="link397" id="link397"></a>We left + the temple and proceeded to the wailing place of the the Jews. Here are + the foundations or a small portion of the lower walls of the great temple + where, every Friday, the Jews come to wail and weep over their downfall. + Half a dozen Jews were there are the time of our visit; with their faces + to the stone, they read from their prayer books in a low wailing tone that + was exceedingly impressive. + </p> + <p> + At the wailing place there were visible five courses of beveled stones in + a fine state of preservation; in some places they have been worn + considerably by the kisses of the devotees, that for many centuries have + pressed around them and wept for the downfall of Jerusalem. Both sexes and + all ages are represented here, and they have come from all quarters of the + globe. + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent10"> + “Oh! weep for those that wept by Babel’s stream, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Whose shrines are desolate, whose land a dream; + </p> + <p class="indent10"> + Weep for the harp of Judah’s broken spell; + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Mourn—where their God hath dwelt, the godless dwell.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + From the Place of Wailing we returned to the hotel, and, as soon as we had + taken lunch proceeded to The Quarries, an excavation which is entered just + outside of the Damascus gate. + </p> + <p> + This is supposed to be the locality whence came the stone for the Great + Temple, and it was only a few years ago that it was discovered. The + quarries extend beneath the city, and one can walk more than half a mile + from the entrance directly under Jerusalem. + </p> + <p> + We wandered around here for about an hour, lighted by candles that saved + us many a disagreeable fall. The slope of the interior is very steep, and + how the stones were managed there, is a mystery. The Judge had several + slips, but none of them were serious, as they all happened among the sand + and smaller chips of limestone. On our return to the hotel, he took a + respectful position in the rear of the party, and for an hour or more was + locked in the recesses of his own room. What he did while thus secluded, I + cannot say, but I know that he summoned a servant to bring him a needle + and some thread. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">398</span><a name="link398" id="link398"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0164" id="linkimage-0164"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0411.jpg" alt="0411 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0411.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0031" id="link2HCH0031"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXI—AMONG THE MONKS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>From the Gates of Jerusalem to Bethlehem—A Touching Incident—Tent-Life + at Bethlehem—The Milk Grotto—Its Miraculous Character—The + “Doubter” Expresses Himself—The Oldest Christian Church + in the World—Quarrelsome Monks—A Deadly Fight—Remarkable + Conduct of the “Doubter”—Pious Pilgrims—A + Christmas Festival—A Corpulent and Hospitable Monk—A Wearisome + Ceremony—The Monks in Costume—The Women of Bethlehem—A + Bevy of Beauties—Under Guard—Armenian Soldiers—Travelling + to Saba—Among the Monks—A Curious Convent—Armed Against + the Bedouins.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E were in the Holy + Land at Christmas time, and arranged to attend the Christmas eve + festivities in Bethlehem. About two o’clock in the afternoon of the + day before Christmas we mounted our horses and turned our attention to the + southern horizon. + </p> + <p> + Out of the Jaffa gate we filed, and then past the Hill of Evil Counsel, + and near the so-called Lower Aqueduct we took the road to Bethlehem. + </p> + <p> + The road was much like that which brought us to Jerusalem—a path + among rocks and hills—though the latter were less abrupt, and there + were in many places considerable areas of tillable land. It is a ride of + less than two hours from one city to the other, and there are few objects + of interest along the route Rachel’s Tomb was pointed out, and also + the well, whose waters David longed for when he was in the cave of + Adullam. + </p> + <p> + The Tomb of Rachel is a small building, surmounted with a dome, and + possessing no peculiar features. The structure is modern, and probably in + the thirty centuries that have passed + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">399</span><a name="link399" id="link399"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0165" id="linkimage-0165"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0412.jpg" alt="0412 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0412.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">401</span><a name="link401" id="link401"></a>since + Rachel was buried there, several buildings have crumbled to dust and been + replaced by pious hands. + </p> + <p> + The authenticity of the spot is vouched for by all who have written on the + subject, and the tomb is one of the few shrines which Jews, Christians, + and Moslems agree about in their traditions, and have not seen fit to + quarrel over. We made a short halt, and one of our party read aloud from + the Bible the brief and touching narrative of Rachel’s death. It had + a new and fresh interest to us, and we all listened attentively to the + simple story. + </p> + <p> + Bethlehem is on a rather steep hill-side, and presents an appearance of + terraces as one looks at it from a short distance. It has the low mud + walls and flat roofs of most Syrian towns, and apart from its historical + interest, and the possession of the Church of the Nativity, it is of + little importance. As we approached it, the convent on the eastern side + presents an appearance, not unlike that of a baronial castle of the Rhine + or Danube, and recalls to us some of the walls that frown upon those + famous rivers or overlook the lovely valleys of Western Germany. Coming + nearer, the soft lines of the picture become clearly defined, and as we + enter the city and thread its streets, we find that it is not unlike + Jerusalem and Jaffa and other places in Syria, through which we have + journeyed. + </p> + <p> + There is no hotel at Bethlehem, and the influx of strangers consequent + upon the Christmas festivities had filled the Latin convent to its fullest + capacity. We determined to begin our camp life here, and so sent our tents + forward in the morning, to be ready for our arrival. + </p> + <p> + We found them pitched in a little field just outside the town, and close + to the “Milk Grotto,” where tradition relates that the Virgin + and Child hid themselves from the fury of Herod, sometime before the + flight into Egypt. Here the Virgin nursed the Child, and the soft stone is + said to have the miraculous power of wonderfully increasing women’s + milk. Bits of it are carried to all parts of the world for this purpose. + The Abbe Geramb says of it: + </p> + <p> + “<i>I make no remarks on the virtue of these stones, but affirm as + an ascertained fact, that a great number of persons have found from it the + effect they anticipate</i>.” <span class="pagenum">402</span><a + name="link402" id="link402"></a>Of course we visited the grotto, which was + a sort of chapel, j lighted with lamps. The “Doubter” asserted + his lack of faith in the virtue of the stone, but nevertheless he brought + away some of it, but refused to give the customary gratuity to the + custodian, much to the disgust of the latter. + </p> + <p> + From the Milk Grotto we went to the Church of the Nativity, beset at every + step, as we were at every moment on the streets of Bethlehem, by venders + of ornaments of olive wood and mother i of pearl. The church, if we + include the buildings connected with it, covers a large area, as it + belongs to three rival sects of Latins, Greeks, and Armenians, and each + has a convent or monastery connected with it. The church itself is about + one hundred and twenty feet by one hundred and ten, and is divided into a + nave and four aisles by Corinthian columns, which support horizontal + architraves. + </p> + <p> + The pavement and roof are in very bad condition, and the whole church + looks as if it would soon tumble to pieces. It was built by the Empress + Helena, in the early part of the fourth century, and is probably the + oldest monument of Christian architecture in the world. + </p> + <p> + The reason of its dilapidated condition is found in the jealousy of the + rival sects of monks; any two of them will unite to prevent the third + making the repairs so much needed, and no two of them will consent to + allow another to have anything to do with the church. Several times the + monks have had fights for the decoration or possession of the Grotto of + the Nativity, and it has been found necessary for the government to + station soldiers there, to preserve order. + </p> + <p> + Two or three years ago, one of the factions set fire to the decorations + which another had put up, and the whole place was filled with smoke, and + some of the walls were disfigured. During the fight at the fire some of + the monks were killed, and up to the present time there is a continuance + of the feeling of hostility. The Crimean war owes its origin, in part, to + the question of the possession of the Church of the Nativity, and more + than once a few square inches of the rock floor of the grotto have been + very nearly the cause of war in Europe. The whole space is carefully + parcelled out among the rival sects, and Turkish soldiers <span + class="pagenum">403</span><a name="link403" id="link403"></a>are + constantly on duty there, to preserve order! How we Christians love + one-another. + </p> + <p> + Guided by a native Christian, a dealer in relics, who spoke French, and + attached himself to us with an eye to business, we entered the church, and + descended a flight of steps to the grotto, a low vault about forty feet + long by twelve feet wide. At the eastern end is a marble slab in the + pavement, and in the centre of the slab is a silver star, bearing the + inscription: + </p> + <p> + “<i>Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christ Natus est.</i>” + </p> + <p> + “Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary.” + </p> + <p> + Every moment pious pilgrims entered the grotto, and kneeling, kissed the + star. Our guide kissed it, and so did another native Christian who + followed us, and each monk, as he entered, gave a similar sign of his + reverence and his faith. The “Doubter” knelt, and the rest of + us were dumb with surprise, as he was a persistent scoffer at everything + in the shape of religion, and had no more reverence than a crocodile. For + a moment, we thought he had been the object of a miracle, and that we + should have occasion to record a conversion of a most remarkable + character. + </p> + <p> + But it resulted otherwise; he rubbed his hands several times over the star—a + spot which all the pilgrims around us were regarding with the deepest + reverence—rubbed it as one feels the texture of a piece of cloth, + and then rose to his feet. + </p> + <p> + To our united enquiry as to what in the world he was trying to do, he said + he wanted to. find out what the inscription was. We said nothing at the + time, as the place was not a proper one for a lecture, but when we got + outside didn’t we give it to him? + </p> + <p> + Sixteen silver lamps burn constantly, year in and year out, over the star, + and behind them are little pictures of saints, some of them set with + precious stones. Over the star is a plain altar, which belongs to all + ‘the sects in common, and each must dress it with the proper + ornaments, when its turn comes to celebrate mass. There is a small chapel, + dedicated to “The Manger,” on the south side of the grotto, + and at the other end of the grotto is the Chapel of the Innocents, + dedicated to the children slain by Herod. There are several other grottos + beneath the church, and all of them are of a sacred character. + </p> + <p> + It was dark when we left the church and returned to our tents to dine and + take a short rest, preparatory to a vigil long after <span class="pagenum">404</span><a + name="link404" id="link404"></a>midnight, to witness the ceremonies of + Christmas Eve. Table was set in one of the tents, and we dined better than + at any of the Syrian hotels. We had brought a bottle of champagne from + Jerusalem and finished the meal with a Christmas glass to friends at home. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving Jerusalem for Bethlehem, we found that our Consul, Dr. De + Hass, was going there with his wife, and had secured quarters in the + Armenian convent. We saw them soon after our arrival, and arranged to call + on them about ten o’clock in the evening, and while away some of the + time previous to the ceremony. + </p> + <p> + Taking our dragoman to guide us, we found the convent, and after wandering + through several corridors, were shown into the waiting room, where two or + three men were asleep on divans. One of them was the janizary of the + Consul, and after rousing him and waiting till he rubbed his eyes into the + proper position of openness, we sent a message to Dr. De Hass. + </p> + <p> + He came at once to meet us, and behind him was a stout, rosy, well-fed + monk, of the Armenian brotherhood, with a heavy bunch of keys dangling at + his waist. Evidently, a monastic life agreed with him. He was the very + picture of health, with possibly a trifle more flesh on his bones than + most of us would desire. He could speak no language that we knew, but he + motioned us to seats, and in a few moments served us some excellent tea, + which we found quite refreshing. In tea-drinking and conversation, half an + hour passed away. A little before eleven o’clock we entered the + church, which was rapidly filling up for the service. + </p> + <p> + We decided not to go into the innermost part of the church, as we would be + unable to get out, in case the ceremonies were prolonged to a very + unusually late hour, and so we halted in the vestibule, while the consular + party went forward to take seats among the dignitaries. + </p> + <p> + The priests were busy with the mass, and the church was rapidly filling, + so that in a little while it was difficult to find standing room. Most of + those present were young girls, and I judge by their similarity of dress, + that they came from a school, or were under some general management. They + were in white Turkish trowsers and overskirts, and their head-dresses were + quite richly + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">405</span><a name="link405" id="link405"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0166" id="linkimage-0166"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0408.jpg" alt="0408 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0408.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">407</span><a name="link407" id="link407"></a>decorated + with coins and mother-of-pearl ornaments. They knelt on the ground, and + maintained their kneeling position for a longtime without apparent + fatigue, though some of them who were doubtless accustomed to early hours, + fell asleep, or looked very drowsy. + </p> + <p> + Bethlehem has some celebrity for the beauty of its women, and in looking + over that congregation I think I saw more pretty faces than I had seen + elsewhere in all Syria. In the vestibule, there were two confessionals, + and at each of them there was a line of young women and girls, waiting for + their opportunities, as a crowd waits at a post-office, or the ticket-box + of a theatre. To judge by the attendance at the confessional, I should + suspect that these young misses were not the models of all that is good in + the world. + </p> + <p> + The church was blazing with candles, and the Christmas decorations were + pretty, but there was nothing unusual in this part of the service. What we + had come to see was the procession to the Grotto of the Nativity, and we + were anxious to know when this was to come off. + </p> + <p> + The heat of the candles and the bad atmosphere rendered the church quite + uncomfortable, and so we wandered off into the Greek portion, where there + was no service and only a few people. Turkish soldiers were standing + around, ready to suppress any tumult, and other soldiers were within call. + </p> + <p> + We loitered around here for awhile, and then descended to the grotto, + which was hot and full of foul air, like the church. Between the church, + the grotto, and the Greek church and the corridors of the Armenian + Convent, we whiled away the time until two o’clock in the morning, + when we descended the stairs to take seats on a stone bench in front of + the Grotto of the Manger and not more than ten feet from the sacred silver + star. + </p> + <p> + Here we sat nearly an hour, watching occasional pilgrims, descending the + stairway and kissing the shrine, and the preparations for the grand + procession. There are two stairways, one belonging to the Latins, and the + other to the Greeks and Armenians. The latter staircase was most of the + time crowded by Greek and Armenian monks, but they were not allowed to + descend into the grotto, except on one occasion, when a Greek priest, clad + in rich robes, carried a censer in front of the shrine and repeated <span + class="pagenum">408</span><a name="link408" id="link408"></a>a prayer. I + fancy that he did it less out of reverential feeling than to show the + Latins that he had a right to perform service there. + </p> + <p> + A long service was read in the Grotto of the Manger, called also the + Grotto of Adoration, and finally the floor was cleared, and a heavy carpet + was spread in front of the shrine. When the carpet was brought, the grotto + was filled with people, who were pushed back with considerable rudeness, + all except the strangers—a dozen or more, including ourselves. These + were all treated with great respect, and allowed the best places for + witnessing the ceremonies. + </p> + <p> + All this time the soldiers stood there with fixed bayonets, and once in + the progress of the service the guard was changed, with a good deal of the + clang of arms, that had a strange sound at such a time and place. + </p> + <p> + Finally, when it was near three o’clock, we heard the sound of a + chant proceeding from the church, and coming nearer and nearer. Soon the + sound reached the head of the Latin stairway, and craning our heads + around, we saw the front of the procession. Now it descended, and slowly + and slowly it came into view. + </p> + <p> + Eight boys carrying candles, and robed in the white vestments, familiar to + those who attend the Catholic service, led the way, and behind them were + priests and monks, to the number of twenty or more, all richly dressed in + the appropriate robes. + </p> + <p> + I regret to be unable to give the ecclesiastical rank of all the + personages in the procession, and can only say that they included all the + dignitaries of the Latin church in this part of Syria, and I was told that + two persons, high in office, had been sent from Rome, to be present on + this occasion. + </p> + <p> + Behind these holy men were the Consuls of France, Italy, Austria, and + other Catholic countries, and some French and Italian military and naval + officers, who happened to be in Jerusalem in time for the ceremonies. The + forward part of the procession entirely filled the grotto, so that the + Consuls stood on the stairway near the bottom while the service was going + on. + </p> + <p> + The service was short, and was read slowly and distinctly, with many + genuflections and obeisances of adoration. The service lasted less than + fifteen minutes, and ended with the presentation + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">409</span><a name="link409" id="link409"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0167" id="linkimage-0167"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0422.jpg" alt="0422 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0422.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">411</span><a name="link411" id="link411"></a>of a + doll in a cradle. Then the procession slowly retired, as it had entered, + and the solemn chant died away in the distance. We returned to our tents, + and as I took out my watch to wind it, I found that the time was half-past + three in the morning. Rather a late bed-time in a country where early + hours are the fashion. + </p> + <p> + We did not hurry in the morning, but paid another visit to the church, + where we found the grotto full of people, as on the day before. About ten + o’clock we started for our day’s ride to Mar Saba, where our + tents had been sent forward. We halted on the way at the Grotto of the + Shepherds, the place where the shepherds were told of the coming of + Christ. + </p> + <p> + The route from this point lay over a rough country, and in some places we + could look far down into glens several hundred feet deep. Some parts of + the way the path was along the edge of these steep hillsides, and was not + very wide. I didn’t like it over much, as my horse had an + inexplicable desire to walk as near the edge as possible. I argued with a + whip, to cure him of this habit, but he would not be cured, and I had to + trust to luck. Happily, no accident befell any of us. + </p> + <p> + We reached Mar Saba a couple of hours before sunset, and found the tents + near the convent. St. Saba is reported to have come here in the fourth + century and entered the cave of a lion, who kindly got up and left when + the holy man entered. To remove all doubt upon this point, they show you + the cave. The convent is built in a peculiarly wild and rocky locality, + overlooking the precipitous valley of the Brook Kedron. + </p> + <p> + From one part of the wall you can drop a penny or a pebble in a sheer fall + of five hundred feet. The building is an extraordinary one, as it is stuck + against and over a cliff, full of natural and artificial caves in such a + way that it is impossible to tell what is masonry and what is natural + rock. + </p> + <p> + To visit the convent, one needs a permit from the Superior at Jerusalem. + We had the proper document, and it was delivered; the monks carefully + surveyed us from a wall far above our heads, and then gave orders for the + opening of a massive and strongly-bolted door. + </p> + <p> + No woman is allowed, under any circumstances, to cross the threshold of + Mar Saba. Harriet Martineau says the monks are <span class="pagenum">412</span><a + name="link412" id="link412"></a>too holy to be hospitable, and another has + added that they are too pious to be good. We were not admitted until the + one lady of our party had walked a sufficient distance away to prevent the + possibility of her darting in when the door was opened. + </p> + <p> + There are sixty monks in all at Mar Saba. The convent is reported to be + rich, but the monks are not a corpulent lot, and have a general indication + of living in a bad boarding-house. They never eat flesh, and their + exercises are very severe. One of them showed us about, and a dozen or + more of the rest spread out on the pavement of the court, a quantity of + canes, beads, crosses, shells, and olive-wood ornaments, in the hope of + selling some of them. + </p> + <p> + We gave our guide a couple of francs for showing us around. He was + particular to ask if it was for himself or the convent. Of course we told + him it was personal, and he thereupon asked us again, in a voice + sufficiently loud to make his companions hear and understand the + situation. + </p> + <p> + There is a very old palm-tree, said to have been planted by the saint in + person; they showed us the tomb of St. Saba, two or three chapels, and a + quantity of bones, belonging to the monks that lived there in the seventh + century, and were massacred by the Persians, There is a curious picture of + the massacre, and it hangs over the skulls and arm-bones of the unhappy + victims. The convent was captured two or three times during the crusades, + but for several centuries it has rested in peace. It is in the midst of + the country of the Bedouins, but the monks never permit the Bedouins + inside the door, and the walls are strong enough to resist any attacks + they might make. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">413</span><a name="link413" id="link413"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0168" id="linkimage-0168"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0426.jpg" alt="0426 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0426.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0032" id="link2HCH0032"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXII—AMONG THE BEDOUINS.—TRAVELLING UNDER ESCORT, AND + LIVING IN TENTS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Sleeping under Tents—A Bedouin Encampment—A howl for + “Backsheesh”—A Queer crowd—An illusion dispelled—An + eccentric “rooster”—Our guard—A little bit of + humbug—“Going for” the “Doubter”—A + case of blackmail—On guard against Robbers—A protection from + the Sheik—Thievery as a profession—Waters without life—A + curious bath—A Flood of Gold—The “Doubter” in a + rain storm—A dangerous Ford—A Nocturnal Mishap—An + atrocious robbery—The “Doubter” once more in trouble—A + Turkish escort—Falling among thieves—The Judge’s opinion + on shrinkage—The “Doubter” in the role of a mummy.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E slept in our + tents pretty soundly, and when the dragoman roused us at six o’clock, + we were not in a mood for getting up. We rose however, and took our + breakfast without delay, and were off in good season. We went a short + distance up the valley of the brook Kedron, and then crossed it, to turn + away to the eastward. + </p> + <p> + Just as we left the valley, we passed a Bedouin encampment. It consisted + of half a dozen black tents, the reverse of attractive, in appearance, and + not more than four feet high. A couple of camels stood near the tents, a + dozen or more dogs, of a wolfish look, came out and barked at us, and as + many dirty and half naked children, saluted us with the cry “<i>Hadji, + backsheesh,” “Hadji, backsheesh,</i>” “Pilgrims, + present,” “Pilgrims, present.” All travellers in this + country are considered pilgrims, and hence the appellation they gave us. + </p> + <p> + A single view of this encampment was enough to dispel any romantic notions + we might have formed of the delights of a Be<span class="pagenum">414</span><a + name="link414" id="link414"></a>douin life. There may be something very + poetical in living with these dirty Arabs, but I beg to be excused. I had + rather sleep in a comfortable bed, in a comfortable house, than in all the + Bedouin tents in Syria. There is a great difference between romance and + reality. You remember Moore’s lines: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + “Will you come to the bower + </p> + <p class="indent30"> + I have shaded for you? + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Your bed shall be roses + </p> + <p class="indent30"> + Bespangled with dew.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + Very nice aren’t they? Well, a fellow once took the starch out of + them by adding a line of reply: + </p> + <p> + “Twould give me the rheumatiz and so it would you,” + </p> + <p> + which is about the size of it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0169" id="linkimage-0169"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9427.jpg" alt="9427 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9427.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + All parties making this journey require an escort. We had one, and it + consisted of one man. He was a picturesque looking rooster, with a burnous + or cloak, that may have been new once, though I doubt it, and he kept a + handkerchief tied around his forehead. H e would have been of great + service in a fight; his gun was of an antiquated pattern, and when he + tested it in camp, he snapped it half a dozen times before it would go + off. He was an inveterate beggar of tobacco for cigarettes, and kept two + of us reasonably busy to supply him. + </p> + <p> + He took a great fancy to my tobacco pouch, and tried to intimate that I + should give it to him, but I assumed an air of stupidity, and couldn’t + understand him. Twenty times in the course <span class="pagenum">415</span><a + name="link415" id="link415"></a>of the day he renewed the topic, but + always with the same result, and in spite of all his signs, I would not + comprehend. Probably he set me down as the stupidest idiot he had ever + met, and my dullness may have served to enliven his subsequent stories to + his friends. He got after the “Doubter,” but that worthy + refused to talk with him as soon as he discovered that he couldn’t + talk, and that the Bedouin wanted to beg something. + </p> + <p> + The region between Jerusalem and the Jordan and Dead Sea abounds in these + rascals. They are shepherds and robbers, according to circumstances. We + found them tending their flocks or loafing around their villages, and + frequently they conversed with our escort. Had we been unaccompanied, one + of the villages that we passed would have signaled to another, and we + should have been plundered. We took the precaution to leave all our money, + letters of credit, and everything of that sort, except our watches, with + the keeper of our hotel in Jerusalem, so that we would not have been a + very valuable prize, but at the same time it would have been inconvenient + to be robbed. + </p> + <p> + The Sheik of the tribe lives in Jerusalem, and it is to him that + travellers look for protection. + </p> + <p> + A party is going to the Dead Sea and Jordan, and is to start to-morrow by + way of Bethlehem and Mar Saba. The dragoman notifies the Governor of + Jerusalem, and the Governor notifies the Sheik, who sends an escort of + one, two, or four, or it may be a dozen men. And, furthermore, the Sheik + comes to the dragoman and receives from him five francs for each + traveller, as a sort of insurance tax. + </p> + <p> + The Sheik is thus made responsible for any loss, and if we had been robbed + while in the hands of the escort, the Governor would have made the Sheik + shell out, to the extent of our loss. Not long before our visit, a + traveller under escort was robbed of two thousand francs; his loss was + promptly made good to him on his return to Jerusalem. All travellers in + the Bedouin country require an escort from the tribe of each region they + pass through, and to go without such escort would be madness. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, while we were winding among the rough hills, we came out of a + little gorge, and gazed upon a mass of rough, billowy hills, spread and + scattered below us, and looking bare and <span class="pagenum">416</span><a + name="link416" id="link416"></a>white in the slanting rays of a December + sun. To the left lay a plain, somewhat broken, and with a line of trees + winding through it; this was the valley of the Jordan, and the trees + marked the course of the stream. To the right, shimmering and glistening + in the sunlight, and broken at its edge into a fringe of foam, raised by + the strong south wind, that was then blowing, lay the Dead Sea—that + weird waste of water that buries the cities of the plain. Down, down, + down, winding among the rocks and over little stretches of plain we made + our way; the hills that had been below rose around, and we rapidly + approached the level of the j plain, thirteen hundred feet below the + waters of the Mediterranean. The distance was deceptive, and we were a + long time in reaching the Dead Sea. + </p> + <p> + I had expected to find a scene of desolation, as some writers, have said + that no fish live in the waters of the Dead Sea, and no, plant grows near + it. It is true that there is no living thing in the Dead Sea; the fish + brought into it by the Jordan are instantly killed by the salt water, but + the reeds and bushes grow as near this sea as they are ordinarily found + near the ocean or any of its arms. I found some within a hundred feet of + it, and they seemed to be doing well. The vegetation is quite luxuriant in + many places, notwithstanding the apparent lightness of the soil. + </p> + <p> + We took a hasty bath in the Dead Sea, just long enough to test its buoyant + qualities. The human body cannot sink in the dense water; you float very + much as a cork floats in ordinary water, and speedily lose all sense of + danger from drowning. The water contains twenty-six per cent, of salt, and + is clear as the | purest spring water. There is a wonderful bitterness in + it, and a few drops in the mouth makes you feel as if you were trying to + gulp down a drug store. + </p> + <p> + After you have been a short time in the Dead Sea, you have a prickly + sensation all over the body, and if you get some of the water in your + eyes, you feel anything but cheerful. + </p> + <p> + When we came out, the water stuck to us with a feeling like molasses, and + until we reached the Jordan and luxuriated in its fresh water, we felt as + sticky as so many postage stamps. + </p> + <p> + An hour’s gallop across the Jordan plain took us from the Dead Sea + to the Jordan, which we reached at the bathing place + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">417</span><a name="link417" id="link417"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0170" id="linkimage-0170"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0430.jpg" alt="0430 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0430.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">419</span><a name="link419" id="link419"></a>of the + pilgrims. The water was of a dirty yellow, and the river was not more than + eighty or a hundred feet wide; the current is quite strong, and at the + bathing place the bed is covered with rough stones, that made walking + unpleasant to our bare and tender feet. + </p> + <p> + Willow, tamarisk, and balsam trees fringe the banks, and in a little grove + of these our lunch was prepared, while those of us who wanted to wash off + the salt of the Dead Sea went to take a bath in the Jordan. I got rid of + the sticky sensation, and emerged from the Jordan without much delay. The + water was altogether too cold for comfort. + </p> + <p> + In my younger days I thought the Jordan was something like the + Mississippi, my impression being derived from the old hymn which says: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “On Jordan’s stormy banks I stand, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + And cast a wistful eye.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + Elsewhere the same hymn records that: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “Sweet fields beyond the swelling flood + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Stand dressed in living green.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + The stormy banks and swelling floods led me to imagine that the Jordan was + a mile or two in width, and with waves like those of the ocean. What a + difference between the imagination and the reality! + </p> + <p> + The Jordan is one of the most tortuous rivers in the world; a map of it + looks like a line of Virginia fence, only more so, and I have heard + somebody say that the Jordan river is so crooked that you can’t tell + half the time which side you are on. + </p> + <p> + An hour and a half took us to Riha, better known as the site of Gilgal, + and by some said to be the place where Jericho once stood. It is now a + miserable village, one of the most forlorn in Palestine; and the principal + objects that we saw were dirty children and dirtier adults, who all begged + without distinction of age or sex, for “backsheesh.” + </p> + <p> + I attempted to take a sketch of a group of them, but they were evidently + ashamed of themselves, and ran away. + </p> + <p> + We dined well and retired early; it rained nearly all night, and not only + rained, but blew, and during the night I was wakened by the cold, wet + canvas of the tent coming slap in my <span class="pagenum">420</span><a + name="link420" id="link420"></a>face. I dreamed something about trying to + swim up Niagara in winter, and then I woke. + </p> + <p> + We called the dragoman and servants, and set things to rights as well as + we could,—but the ground was so soft, that the tent pegs wouldn’t + hold well. We were a forlorn lot in the morning, and started off after + breakfast, very much as if we were going to our own funerals. + </p> + <p> + The stream was so swollen that we couldn’t ford it with safety, and + so we went up a mile or two and crossed by an ancient aqueduct, half full + of water. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0171" id="linkimage-0171"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9433.jpg" alt="9433 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9433.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The horses were driven through the stream, while we walked or were carried + on men’s backs along the aqueduct, which was a foot wide, with sides + eighteen inches high, while the elevation was about fifty feet above the + torrent. + </p> + <p> + I removed my boots and waded over, as I thought it rather ticklish to be + carried. The “Doubter” was half way? over, when his bearer, + who knew his burden’s views on the “backsheesh” + question, I doubted his ability to carry him further. The “Doubter,” + much to his disgust, was put down where the water of the aqueduct was + deepest, and had to pass the rest of the day with wet feet. + </p> + <p> + We climbed the hills along the way to Jerusalem, and at several points saw + the remains of the old Roman road. The route has the same condition of + safety that it had when a certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho, + and fell among thieves. Robberies are not unfrequent, and the treatment of + the victim is the same as it was eighteen hundred years ago. A couple of + years ago, an English gentleman, on his way to the Jordan, fell into the + hands of the Arabs, close to the ruined Khan, which is <span + class="pagenum">421</span><a name="link421" id="link421"></a>said to be + the site of the inn to which the good Samaritan carried the traveller whom + he found by the wayside. The treatment of this Englishman is exactly + described in these words: “They stripped him of his raiment and + wounded him and departed, leaving him half dead.” + </p> + <p> + While in the valley of the Jordan, we saw no other traveller than + ourselves. Had we happened there at Easter time, we might have witnessed + an interesting spectacle. + </p> + <p> + On Monday of Passion Week occurs the ceremony of the bathing of the + Pilgrims. The devotees gather in Jerusalem to the number of several + thousand, some of them having come hundreds of leagues in order to be + present on this occasion. In a disorderly array, they march out of the + Holy City and down the road from Jerusalem to Jericho. The Turkish + governor of Jerusalem sends an escort, under command of an officer, to + protect the pilgrims from robbers, and also to preserve a sort of + discipline among them, and prevent overcrowding and loss of life, at the + banks of the Jordan. A camp, or rather a bivouac, is formed on the Plain + of Gilgal, and long before daybreak on the following morning, the whole + party is roused. + </p> + <p> + The scene at this moment is said to be wildly picturesque, and strikingly + similar to that which some authorities describe as presented at the + “baptism of John.” + </p> + <p> + Tom-toms are beaten, with no attempt at harmony, and thousands of torches + flash out and lighten up the wide space covered by the bivouac. In a few + moments the noise is hushed, and the torches are extinguished; then the + host moves in silence towards the river, to the spot where tradition has + located the baptism of’ our Saviour. + </p> + <p> + The departure from the bivouac is timed, so that the party shall reach the + bathing place about dawn. The eastern horizon displays a belt of light + that reveals the sharp outlines of the mountain of the Land of Moab, and + the ruddy tinge increases as the Pilgrims descend into the fringe of + foliage that masks the banks of the river. At the broad opening that marks + the bathing place, they congregate and prepare to wash in Jordan. + </p> + <p> + The whole river is speedily filled with people of both sexes and all ages; + the bath is not conducted according to Occidental <span class="pagenum">422</span><a + name="link422" id="link422"></a>notions of etiquette. Prayers and + blessings are uttered, and all are too intent upon the observance of their + religious duty to pay any heed to ideas of propriety. + </p> + <p> + The ceremony ended, the multitude returns to Jerusalem, and reaches the + city about sunset. Many stragglers fall out by the way, and sometimes the + Turkish escort is busy for two or three days, bringing in the last of + them. The road, is dreary, and there is very little upon it to keep up the + traveller’s interest. We found it especially so, as a drizzling rain + came on when we were about half way. + </p> + <p> + We passed Bethany and wound around the Mount of Olives, then past + Gethsemane, and entered Jerusalem by the Bab-el-Asbat, or Gate of the + Tribes. We were thoroughly benumbed and wet, and ill-natured; and when our + horses stopped at the door of the hotel, every one of us were so nearly + frozen that we had to be assisted to dismount. We walked as so many + mummies might walk, and with difficulty dragged ourselves to our rooms. We + were cold and wet through, and not one of us had a change of clothes, all + our heavy baggage being at Jaffa. + </p> + <p> + What should we do? + </p> + <p> + I proposed going to bed, although it was two P. M., and sending my clothes + to the kitchen to dry, and I was not long in undressing. + </p> + <p> + Everybody else did the same; all except the Judge, who was afraid his + clothes would shrink so much that he couldn’t get them on again. He + didn’t relish the idea of going naked about Jerusalem in that + weather and riding bareback in the saddle to Jaffa, so he sat on the stove + in the parlor for the rest of the day. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon we received our clothes from the kitchen, and were + able to appear presentable at dinner time. But we all had a wrung out + appearance, and were not over amiable. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” borrowed a pair of trowsers from one of the + waiters. They were very tight and very short, and made the old fellow + resemble an animated mummy or the materialized spirit of a blacksmith’s + tongs. He had taken cold, and his teeth rattled so much that it was + proposed to set him to music, and then sell him as a pair of castanets. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">423</span><a name="link423" id="link423"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0172" id="linkimage-0172"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0436.jpg" alt="0436 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0436.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">425</span><a name="link425" id="link425"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0173" id="linkimage-0173"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0438.jpg" alt="0438 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0438.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0033" id="link2HCH0033"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIII—THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, AND SHRINE OF THE CITY OF DAVID + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Snow-Storm in Jerusalem—The “Doubter’s” + Opinion of Gum-Shoes—Kicked by a Vicious Horse—An Obliging + Moslem—A Guard of Turks—Bloodthirsty Christians—An + Extraordinary Shrine—The Angel’s Seat—The Quarrels of + the Greek and Latin Monks—A Spot of Marvels—The Soil Pressed + by the Feet of Christ—Strange Traditions—The Discovery of the + True Cross—The Spot where Peter Denied his Lord—The Scene of + the Last Supper—What a Wealthy Jew Did—The Man who was his own + Father—The “Good Thief”—Extracting Sixpence from + the “Doubter”—A Pertinacious Guide—Trying to Elude + Pursuit—. A Claim for Damages—Loading Up with Oranges—Talking + in Four Languages.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span>S we lay in bed + all that afternoon at Jerusalem, the snow continued falling and the wind + blew, so that the place was anything but cheerful. By sundown there were + four inches of snow, the most—so the hotel-keeper said—that + had been seen there in fifteen years. During the night it changed to rain, + and in the morning the streets were as “sloshy” as could well + be imagined. The pool of Hezekiah, just back of the hotel, contained a + strange mixture of snow, ice, and water, and did not accord with the + description of it as made by summer visitors. + </p> + <p> + When I looked out in the morning, the mingled snow, mud, and water that + filled the streets brought me back to my own dear New York, and I fancied + that I was once more on Manhattan Island in a January thaw. + </p> + <p> + The snow had ceased, but it was raining at intervals, and very hard when + it did rain. We sent out and bought some gum overshoes, all except the + “Doubter.” who didn’t believe gum-shoes were good for + anything, especially when they cost so much as in Jerusalem. Furthermore, + the “Doubter” had incautiously ven<span class="pagenum">426</span><a + name="link426" id="link426"></a>tured too near the hoofs of an + ill-mannered horse, and had been kicked by the latter to such an extent + that he thought best to stay in his room. + </p> + <p> + We started out to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and again found + it closed. The different sects of Christians fight so much about the + church that the key has to be kept by Moslems, as none of the Christians + will allow the rest to hold it! + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0174" id="linkimage-0174"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0439.jpg" alt="0439 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0439.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + We held two or three consultations with as many sects of monks, and at + last found that an order from the Armenian Patriarch could, at that hour, + procure the key from its Moslem holder, who, on the promise of “backsheesh,” + would consent to obey the request to open the church for us. At another + hour, another patriarch would need to be consulted. + </p> + <p> + Two of us started with our dragoman, and with some rebuffs we at length + found the Armenian Patriarch, or rather his secretary. + </p> + <p> + He sent a messenger with us to the Moslem key-holder, and the latter + worthy, on promise of three francs, consented. + </p> + <p> + As at Bethlehem, a Turkish guard is constantly maintained in the church + where Christ is buried, to prevent His disciples shedding each other’s + blood! What a spectacle is presented for the contemplation of the + followers of Mohammed! No wonder they look upon Christians with contempt. + <span class="pagenum">427</span><a name="link427" id="link427"></a>abandon + his pipe and accompany us. Thus we succeeded in getting the church open, + but there were half a dozen fellows in the way, each of whom wanted + “backsheesh.” All this delay and annoyance comes from the + quarrels of the Christians and their jealousy of one another. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0175" id="linkimage-0175"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0440.jpg" alt="0440 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0440.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">428</span><a name="link428" id="link428"></a>The + ponderous key was turned, and we entered the church. The door was closed + behind us, to prevent the entrance of any person not belonging to our + party. Immediately in front of the door is a marble slab, set in the + pavement and inclosed by a low railing; this is called the Stone of + Unction, on which Christ’s body was laid to be anointed. It is over + the real stone, and completely covers it, as the guide explains, to + prevent the latter being broken and worn by the numerous pilgrims that + visit it. + </p> + <p> + Further off is the spot where the Virgin Mary stood while the body of + Christ lay on the Stone of Unction, and further on to the right is the + rotunda, which contains, in its centre, the shrine after which the church + is named—The Holy Sepulchre. + </p> + <p> + The sepulchre is covered by a small building twenty-six feet by eighteen, + of a style of architecture impossible to describe in writing. There is an + entrance by a low door in the east end, and this brings you into the + so-called Chapel of the Angel, for the reason that here sat the angel that + rolled away the stone from the mouth of the sepulchre. A fragment of the + stone is shown; the Latin monks say, however, that the real stone was + stolen by the Armenians, and is shown by them in the Armenian Chapel on + Mount Zion. + </p> + <p> + From this chapel we enter the sepulchre, a small vault about seven feet + square, and having on one side the sepulchral couch, about two feet high, + and covered with marble; in fact, everything is of marble to such an + extent that no part of the original rock can be seen, and it is hard to + accept the assurances that the whole tomb is carved out of the solid rock. + The couch of the sepulchre is used as an altar, and is carefully portioned + off among the contending sects. I presume that any one of them would + prefer to see the church and its contents utterly destroyed rather than + any one of the others should obtain possession of it. Quarrels are not + infrequent in the church over the right of possession or service, and on + one occasion there was a scuffle, with a good deal of hair-pulling and + rending of garments, in the sepulchre itself, between a Greek and a Latin + monk. The Greek was the physical superior, and came off victorious. + </p> + <p> + To enumerate, in the shape of an itinerary, all the places we visited in + the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, would be to make + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">429</span><a name="link429" id="link429"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0176" id="linkimage-0176"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0442.jpg" alt="0442 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0442.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">431</span><a name="link431" id="link431"></a>a + tedious narrative. It is rather curious that so many places have been + found in the small space covered by the church and its annexes, and it is + not at all wonderful that many Christians should be skeptical on the + subject. There has been, and still is, a violent discussion as to the + genuineness of relics and localities, and ponderous volumes have been + written on both sides. + </p> + <p> + Tradition and history assert that the Romans built a temple to Venus, on + the hill where Christ died, and that a marble statue of the goddess was + set up on the site of the cross, and a statue of Jupiter over the place of + the Resurrection. In the fourth century the Emperor Constantine caused a + removal of this temple, and the erection of a church over the spot. The + Empress Helena, Constantine’s mother, came to Palestine to search + for the Cross and the Holy Sepulchre, and in her presence the discovery + was made. + </p> + <p> + We were shown the chair where she sat during the removal of the earth that + covered the True Cross and the crosses of the two thieves. According to + the tradition, the three crosses were found side by side, and it was + impossible to tell which was the true one. A woman, sick of an incurable + disease, was brought and laid upon two of them, without any effect; when + she was placed on the third, she rose and walked away in perfect health. + Of course there could be no doubt after this, and the cross was declared + genuine. It must have been of goodly size, as there is enough of it extant + in churches and private collections to build a steamboat. + </p> + <p> + Whatever opinion there may be as to the genuine character of the relics + and places exhibited, there is great interest attached to the spot, and + the time spent in the church passes very rapidly. We were two hours in the + church, where we thought we had been less than thirty minutes; we had + lingered over each place whose name had been made familiar to us in the + Scriptures, and would have remained longer had not the time pressed us. + Finally we left the church as we had entered, and after paying our guides + the necessary “backsheesh,” sent them away. The peddlers and + beggars around the church redoubled their efforts and appeals, and kept a + cordon around us till we reached the street. + </p> + <p> + From the Holy Sepulchre we went to the Palace of Caiphas, on Mount Zion, + which is in the hands of the Armenians. Ser<span class="pagenum">432</span><a + name="link432" id="link432"></a>vice was just ending in the church, and it + had a strange appearance, in consequence of the Oriental costumes of the + worshippers and the Oriental manners in which the service was performed. + We were shown the stone that covered the mouth of the sepulchre, the spot + where Peter stood when he denied ever having known Christ, and the rock on + which the cock stood and crowed at the time of Peter’s denial. + </p> + <p> + They also showed the prison where Christ was confined, so that we had two + of these from which to select, the other being in the Church of the + Sepulchre. + </p> + <p> + Further along on Mount Zion we went to the Conaculum, or scene of the Last + Supper. The building is in the hands of the Moslems, and one of them, a + dirty looking Arab, showed us up a flight of stairs and into the “supper + room,” where the supper is said to have taken place. At present the + room is bare and dirty, and occupied by Moslems, who lounged around and + begged for “backsheesh.” There is nothing peculiar about its + architecture and nothing intrinsically to give it the slightest interest. + </p> + <p> + Under this building, Moslem, Christian, and Jewish traditions unite in + locating the tomb of David, and also that of Solomon and other kings. The + Moslems have a mosque there, and will permit no one to enter it far enough + to reach the tomb. Once in a great while a special favor will be shown to + a Jew by a Mohammedan friend, and he can get a slight glimpse of the + interior; but although the spot is particularly venerated by the Jews, the + government will not open it to them. Several attempts have been made to + buy the place, but unsuccessfully. + </p> + <p> + The Latin monks once had possession of the buildings, but they lost it + through bad management. A wealthy Jew of Constantinople was in Jerusalem, + and asked to be permitted to visit David’s tomb and say his prayers + there. They refused this very natural and reasonable request, and the Jew + went off. As soon as he reached Constantinople, he sought an interview + with the Grand Vizier, and induced him to expel the Latin monks from the + building that covered the spot. In a year or two he went back, armed with + the necessary firman, that enabled him to say his prayers at the tomb of + David, and thus relieve his conscience of any burden that may have been + resting upon it in consequence bring us to the Fountain of the Virgin. + Siloah’s Pool is a basin or reservoir, about fifty feet by twenty, + and not far from six yards deep. There is an underground passage between + this pool and the Fountain of the Virgin, which has been explored by Dr. + Robinson and others, and found to be very tortuous, and <span + class="pagenum">433</span><a name="link433" id="link433"></a>of any + dubious transaction in old clothes, or in exorbitant interest for money he + might have loaned. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0177" id="linkimage-0177"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0446.jpg" alt="0446 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0446.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Passing out from the Caenaculum and descending to the Vale of Hinnom, we + can visit the famous Pool of Siloah or Siloam; and a walk of ten minutes + or more further along the valley, will <span class="pagenum">434</span><a + name="link434" id="link434"></a>so small, that one is obliged to crawl on + hands and knees in order to pass through it. + </p> + <p> + The Fountain of the Virgin is the more picturesque of the two. It is at + the bottom of an artificial cave, and the stairway that leads down to the + water has given it the name by which it is known to the Arabs, “The + Fountain of the Mother of Stairs,” and old tradition says that women + accused of adultery were required to drink of the water from this + fountain. If guilty, they died immediately; but if innocent, they were + unhurt. + </p> + <p> + A remarkable feature of this fountain is the irregular flow of the water, + which has been verified by many persons. Sometimes the water in the basin + will rise twelve or fifteen inches in a few minutes, then become + stationary, and in five or ten minutes more, it subsides to its ordinary + depth. In some seasons this phenomenon occurs twice or thrice daily, while + at other times the intermittent periods will be several days apart. This + is doubtless what was meant in the New Testament, where it is said “an + angel came down at certain seasons and troubled the water.” The + local belief is, that there is a dragon in the fountain; the water flows + when he sleeps, but stops when he is awake. + </p> + <p> + From the Coenaculum we took a long walk to the tombs of the Kings—sepulchres + hewn in the rock, and evidently of great antiquity. They have + accommodations for about twenty persons, but are rather damp and + uncomfortable. + </p> + <p> + The hills all around Jerusalem are full of these tombs, cut in the solid + rock. Most of them have a legendary history that assigns them to some + Biblical character, but the authenticity of these histories is extremely + doubtful. + </p> + <p> + We managed to extract some amusement out of our guide, at Jerusalem, (a + local professional, engaged by our dragoman,) but not so much as with the + fellow who served us at Athens. He was so good natured, and showed so much + readiness to do anything we wanted, that we hadn’t the heart to + annoy him If he had been less amiable he would have been much more to our + liking. His use of the English language was our best hold, and his + conversation rattled on with an utter disregard of the relative positions + of nouns and verbs. <span class="pagenum">435</span><a name="link435" + id="link435"></a>We asked how long he had been guide there, and he + responded, “I guide have been thirty-four years. Before I was guide + I was my father.” + </p> + <p> + Here was a case for Darwin. What the fellow wanted to say was, that his + father was guide before him, and thinking we did not fully understand him, + he went on: + </p> + <p> + “Before I was born, I was guide ten years. Before my father little + boy was, I was guide. Before I was old man, I die my father. My father I + die before he was twelve years. I was forty years before my father was + born.” + </p> + <p> + The mystery increased, and the more he explained the more he got things + mixed. + </p> + <p> + In the church of the Holy Sepulchre, when pointing out the historic spots, + he did it somewhat in this wise: + </p> + <p> + “Here is where was Jew man crucify Christ. He was two thief with him + crucify; one was bad thief and one good thief was. Here cross was for good + thief.” + </p> + <p> + When we went to the mosque of Omar he offered to supply us with slippers + for a sixpence each, and those of us who had left our own slippers at + Jaffa consented at once to the arrangement. The “Doubter” was + of the lot, but when it came to paying, he had no change and wanted to + cheat the man out of his due. He had a Turkish coin worth about a penny, + and told the guide he must take that or nothing. + </p> + <p> + While the “Doubter’s” attention was taken up with + something, we told the guide to freeze to him and compel him to pay. We + promised to support him in his efforts, and with this assurance he went + ahead. + </p> + <p> + He came up from behind and silently placed himself at the “Doubter’s” + side, and as he did so, extended his open hand before our companion’s + face. He suited his word to his action, and his action to his word, by + saying in a mild tone: + </p> + <p> + “‘Doubter’—sixpence.” + </p> + <p> + There was no response. Half a minute later the request was repeated: + </p> + <p> + “‘Doubter’—sixpence; for slippers, sixpence.” + </p> + <p> + The Turkish penny was again offered, and again refused, with: + </p> + <p> + I stopped him and developed a new plan. The guide remained on the + sidewalk, in front of the hotel, and in a quarter of an hour the “Doubter” + opened his door, peered out cautiously to see that the coast was clear, + and then took his way to the parlor. He seated himself before the fire, + and I gave the signal, and just as he remarked, “I’m glad that + awful man has gone,” the guide slipped in like the ghost of Banquo + at Macbeth’s feast. Again he extended his hand, and again he said: + </p> + <p> + “‘Doubter’—sixpence.” <span class="pagenum">436</span><a + name="link436" id="link436"></a> “‘Doubter’—sixpence.” + </p> + <p> + And so it went on for two hours, and I think the old miser was appealed to + on the average, about once a minute. Whenever the guide lagged we urged + him forward, and as he had right on his side and sixpence in his eye, he + worked with a will. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0178" id="linkimage-0178"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0449.jpg" alt="0449 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0449.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + In vain did the “Doubter” order him away and appeal to the + rest of us, to tell the guide to leave We made no interference, except to + offer to lend the “Doubter” the sixpence, which he declined. + The “Doubter” slammed the door in the guide’s face, who + then gave up the pursuit. <span class="pagenum">437</span><a name="link437" + id="link437"></a>The old fellow surrendered. He borrowed a sixpence and + paid the guide, and the rest of us gave the man a couple of francs for his + persistence. + </p> + <p> + There was nothing now for us to do but to leave Jerusalem, and the next + morning by ten o’clock we were set down at the door of the hotel at + Jaffa, whence we had started nine days before. We paid oft our dragoman, + and at his request wrote a certificate, setting forth that he had served + us to our entire satisfaction, and that we were as contented with him as + it would be possible to be with any dragoman. He suited us all, except the + “Doubter,” who wouldn’t have been satisfied even if he + had had the Sultan of Turkey for a dragoman. He tried to get a reduction + on account of the kicking he received from one of the horses, and was much + chagrined when the dragoman, at our suggestion, pretended to misunderstand + him, and said he did not make any extra charge for things of that kind. + </p> + <p> + While we were busy talking about something or other, the sharp eyes of + Madame discovered the steamer, and we gave an Indian yell of delight. Our + baggage was ready, and soon we had it on the shoulders of porters and were + off for the landing. + </p> + <p> + The usual “backsheesh” took us through the Custom House, and + the muscular arms of Arab boatmen swung us out of the little harbor of + Jaffa and over the swelling waves of the Mediterranean. The ship was a + full mile from shore, and it was a long pull and a strong pull to get us + there. On board we found we were the only cabin passengers, and could have + all the after part of the ship to ourselves. + </p> + <p> + I have before stated that Jaffa is celebrated for its oranges, which are + largely exported. As soon as the steamer anchored she was surrounded by + boats loaded with boxes and baskets, the boxes being made with open sides + and tops, so as to allow a free circulation of air. The boxes and baskets + were hoisted in over the ship’s side amid much confusion and a vast + amount of talk. Italian, Russian, Arabic, and Turkish filled the air; + everybody talked at once, and you could hardly distinguish one sound from + another. The liveliest scene was when a boat was emptied and dropped away, + and another came in to take its place. + </p> + <p> + There would be half a dozen boats struggling for position, and they would + push and crowd at a frightful rate. The men of one <span class="pagenum">438</span><a + name="link438" id="link438"></a>boat would deliberately push another boat + back and crowd their own in, and of course this would rouse the ire of the + ousted ones. The volleys of words would set up an Arabic dictionary. I don’t + know whether there was any profanity in what they said, but I fancy so. + Now and then in the struggle some one would tumble into the water, but he + was soon up again, and didn’t seem to mind the wetting. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0179" id="linkimage-0179"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0451.jpg" alt="0451 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0451.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Deck passengers on a Levantine steamer generally appropriate a part of the + deck that suits them, and stay there during the voyage. They spread their + carpets and blankets where they find room and squat by day and sleep by + night on the spot selected. Directly in front of the after cabin, a lot of + deck passengers were thus installed, and when the crate-like boxes and the + canvas covered baskets were piled near and around them, they began to help + <span class="pagenum">439</span><a name="link439" id="link439"></a>themselves + to oranges. Two fellows that were camped together would work in + partnership. One would get near a basket, and would work cautiously until + he had a hole large enough, then quietly withdrawing an orange, would pass + it to his pal, who would conceal it behind his baggy breeches and flowing + robes. The operation would go on until a peck or so had been taken, when + another freshly arrived basket would be sought. + </p> + <p> + Nine o’clock came, and we were still at the same work, and the decks + were covered. Finally the captain said that no more could be taken, and + half a dozen boats were sent back to land as fully loaded as they came. + Steam began to blow from the pipes, in a few moments the screw was + started, the anchor rose from its bed, and we were under way. + </p> + <p> + Under a clear night sky of the Mediterranean, I sat on deck watching the + bright stars above, the glittering waves below, and the phosphorescent + gleaming track of the ship, as she plowed through the waters. The + twinkling lamps of Jaffa faded into indistinctness and then went out, and, + last of all, the staring light-house sank below the horizon and was hid + from sight. + </p> + <p> + We lost sight of Palestine. Our winter journey in the Holy Land was a + thing of the past, to be a pleasant recollection for the future. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0180" id="linkimage-0180"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5452.jpg" alt="5452 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5452.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">440</span><a name="link440" id="link440"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0181" id="linkimage-0181"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0453.jpg" alt="0453 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0453.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0034" id="link2HCH0034"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIV—THE LAND OF PHARAOH.—THROUGH THE EGYPTIAN + DESERT. + </h2> + <p> + <i>In Sight of Egypt—A light-house looming through the fog—On + the soil of the Pharaohs—An invasion of boatmen—Scenes in the + streets of Port Said—Encore de “Backsheesh”—The + great Suez canal—Negotiations with a cobbler—A ludicrous + situation—A bootless customer—Egyptian jugglers—Going + through the Market—A disagreeable spectacle—A pocket steamer—Drinking + to absent friends—On the “.raging canawl”—Sleeping + on deck—A sunrise in the desert—On the summit of the Isthmus—An + onslaught by Arab-baggage-smashers.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HERE it is! There + is the light-house!” + </p> + <p> + Half a dozen of us looked in the direction indicated, and saw a tall + column that rose apparently out of the sea, as the fog and distance did + not reveal the low coast of Egypt, nor the long jetty that has been thrown + out to form a harbor. + </p> + <p> + The steamer moved steadily onward, and in a little while there was a + fringe of houses, and then a fringe of masts, then a long line, lighter + than the sea in its color, swept away on either hand to mark the coast. In + its center appeared the jetties, that form the outer harbor of Port Said. + A small steamer came out to meet us, and from her a pilot came on board, + to direct us between the jetties and into the inner harbor. + </p> + <p> + These jetties, or moles, are of artificial stone, two-thirds sand, and + one-third hydraulic lime, mixed in a frame and allowed to harden. Each + block weighs twenty-two tons, and contains about three hundred and + twenty-four cubic feet. The blocks are not piled regularly to form a well + built wall, but are dropped in, hig-gedly-piggedly, like a lot of bricks + dumped from a cart. This <span class="pagenum">441</span><a name="link441" + id="link441"></a>has been found to be the best form of sea wall, as it + breaks the force of the waves more completely than would a structure with + a smooth front. The sand has settled in and filled up the cavities below + the water line; at first it silted through, but an occasional use of the + dredge kept the harbor in proper condition. + </p> + <p> + The lighthouse is a magnificent structure of concrete, one hundred and + sixty feet high, supporting a lantern twenty feet high, and flashing every + three seconds with such intensity, as to be visible twenty miles. Three + other lighthouses of similar construction have been placed in the interval—one + hundred and twenty-five miles—between Port Said and Alexandria. + </p> + <p> + The steamer entered the harbor, and before her anchor was down, her decks + were invaded by the usual swarms of boatmen, on the lookout for a job. We + were almost within jumping distance of the shore, and had we possessed the + strength and activity of fleas, in proportion to our size, we should have + made short work of going ashore. Not being thus gifted, we made the usual + bargain for transportation to the land, and from the shore, through the + Custom House, to the hotel. + </p> + <p> + The customary “backsheesh” of two francs saved us from an + inspection of our baggage, and we were soon at the hotel. I cannot speak + very highly of this establishment; there are two hotels that keep up a + warm rivalry, and are first-class in their prices, if in nothing else. + Whichever hotel you patronize on visiting Port Said, you will wish you had + gone to the other. + </p> + <p> + Port Said is modern; it was founded in 1859, and owes its existence to the + construction of the Suez Canal. Previous to that time, there was no town + there, and not even a single house. Early in April, a small body of + laborers landed there, and on the 25th of that month, M. de Lesseps, the + projector of the canal, in the presence of a dozen Europeans and six or + eight times that number of natives, removed the first spadeful of earth in + the great enterprise, that was to open a water way from the Mediterranean + to the Red Sea. A few huts had been erected on the site of the present + city, which was named Port Said in honor of the then Viceroy. + </p> + <p> + The spot was not an attractive one, nothing but a strip of sand without + vegetation, and without a drop of fresh water. As the <span class="pagenum">442</span><a + name="link442" id="link442"></a>works of the canal progressed, the town + grew and presented a scene of great activity. It was said to be at one + time the largest workshop in the world. It has lost this character since + the canal was completed, but is still a city of eight or ten thousand + inhabitants, regularly laid out in streets and squares, and boasting a + pretty and luxuriant garden. + </p> + <p> + There is considerable activity in the streets, and the numerous shops, + stores, churches, hotels, mosques, and the like give it a permanent and + not unpleasing appearance. The business is all more or less connected with + the canal, and will doubtless increase as the business of the great + water-way increases. + </p> + <p> + It does not take long to make a tourist’s survey of a modern town in + the land of antiquities, where nothing is considered old that does not + date further back than the Christian era. Where you count centuries by the + score, you will not pay much attention to a decade, and grow enthusiastic + over works where the mortar has scarcely settled, and paint, if there be + any, is still wet. + </p> + <p> + Our first effort in Port Said was to ascertain when we could leave it, and + we found that this could not be done before midnight. We could go on a + small steamer as far as Ismailia and thence by rail to Cairo, and if we + wished to take a detour to Suez, there was no law to prevent our going + there. + </p> + <p> + We sauntered around the city; some of our party had their hair cut, some + ate pastry in a <i>café</i>, some resorted to a beer garden in front of + the hotel, and one, (myself,) took a seat by the side of a cobbler, whose + stall was in the open air, while he mended one of my boots. Half a dozen + Arabs stood around to look at me, as I crossed the bootless leg over the + booted one and endeavored to appear pleased. + </p> + <p> + The cobbler had about half finished the job, when he suddenly remembered + that he must go to dinner. To this I objected until my boot was done. I + had no wish to sit there while he dined, and possibly took an after-dinner + nap of an hour or so, and after a slight wrangle I succeeded in convincing + him that he had better finish the job before doing anything else. + </p> + <p> + The Arab portion of Port Said is quite distinct from the Frank quarter, + and is separated from it by a marsh, that can be <span class="pagenum">443</span><a + name="link443" id="link443"></a>crossed over a rickety bridge or + circumambulated by following the sea shore. + </p> + <p> + We took a stroll there in the latter part of the afternoon, and found + crowds of natives surrounding a few jugglers and mountebanks, whose tricks + were by no means extraordinary. I had a lot of Turkish coppers, which I + had brought from Syria, and found altogether uncurrent here. To get rid of + the coins I threw some to the jugglers and to a few beggars. None of them + appeared to be pleased to receive this money, and evidently they had been + served the same trick by previous travellers. + </p> + <p> + There was a part of the market where fish and vegetables were offered for + sale, the venders having little stands about the size of dressing-tables, + and not particularly clean or attractive. There were two or three + restaurants where fried fish was waiting to be devoured, the restaurant,—cuisine + and all,—occupying a space not more than eight feet square. Many of + the natives were suffering from ophthalmia, and on the eyes of some of the + children there were masses of flies eating away the oozing matter and + forming a disgusting spectacle I should say that one in twenty of those I + saw there were blind of an eye, and one in fifty was altogether bereft of + sight. + </p> + <p> + We dined at the hotel and then slept until nearly eleven o’clock, as + we knew there would be no sleeping accommodations on the boat. It was New + Year’s Eve, and some of the party proposed to celebrate the New + Year, which would come in as we left Port Said, so we took a couple of + bottles of champagne and some glasses to the steamer. + </p> + <p> + It was about half-past eleven, when we left the hotel, and followed our + baggage on the backs of the Arab porters to the landing. + </p> + <p> + The boat was an insignificant affair, carrying the mail and having room + for very little else. The cabin was not far from seven feet by twelve; + there were seats for about sixteen persons, and there was a small table in + the centre, which was speedily piled up with baggage. Two or three native + officials were there when we arrived, and they had done what we should + have done had we been first. They had taken the best places, and were + comfortably settled into the corners. As the clock struck <span + class="pagenum">444</span><a name="link444" id="link444"></a>twelve, the + ships in the harbor fired salutes and let off fireworks, and quite a + quantity of rockets went up from the shore. We opened our champagne, and + each drained a glass to friends at home, and a wi-sh that the end of the + year might be as propitious as its commencement. + </p> + <p> + Our steamer blew her whistle and swung out from the wharf, and in a few + minutes we had passed out of the basin and were in the canal. + </p> + <p> + Straight as a sun-beam the canal pushes away from the sea coast, and then + through the low desert. For nearly thirty miles it has no curve, but is as + direct as it is possible for the engineer to lay it out. The banks were + not very high in this part, as there was not a large quantity of earth to + be dredged out, and from the deck of a large steamer one can look over a + wide extent of marshy lake and swamp. + </p> + <p> + As we were scarcely a foot above the water and in a small steam launch, we + could not look over the bank, and were obliged to content ourselves with + the contemplation of the sloping sides of the canal. They were very + monotonous, even with the poetic addition of a full moon and clear sky. + The night went on and so did we, but I fancy the night had much the best + time of it. We could not lie down, and there was hardly room for us to sit + inside. I secured a camp stool and got outside, making the end of the + cabin serve as a rest for my back. Wrapped in my overcoat and plaid, I + managed to keep warm, though with some difficulty, and after a time I felt + sleepy, but dared not risk going to sleep there, through fear that I + should fall overboard. + </p> + <p> + Then I sat down, or rather reclined on deck, and, making a pillow of an + anchor, managed to get along comfortably. Every time I waked and looked + out we were steaming along through the canal with the same interminable + stretch of sand on either side. By-and-by there was a blush of light in + the east, then there was daybreak and then there came sunrise. + </p> + <p> + We grew better natured as we thawed out under the welcome rays of the sun, + and felt the dryness vanishing from our lips, and a gradual disappearance + of that general feeling of mussiness that you have after sitting up all + night. The sands became warm in the glow of the morning, and everything + that before had been sombre was now brilliant with flashing light. <span + class="pagenum">445</span><a name="link445" id="link445"></a>I do not + often see the sun come up in these later years, never when I can avoid + doing so; but whenever I am caught with a sunrise on my hands, I think it + is about the best thing out. A sunrise in the desert is rather an extra + affair, and considerably “lays over” the ordinary one that we + can see at home by staying up till the next day. + </p> + <p> + We touched the dock at Ismailia in little more than seven hours from Port + Said, and were glad enough to get on shore. A crowd of Arabs at the + landing was as ravenous as a lot of young tigers; we tried to keep them + back with words and gestures, but to no purpose; they seized our baggage, + and would not put it down till we laid about them with our canes. + </p> + <p> + There were a hundred of them, all vociferating and snatching for baggage + at the same instant; and I flatter myself that it was a triumph of genius + over muscle when we succeeded in putting that baggage in a pile and making + the fellows stand back, and tender proposals for its transport to the + railway station We let the contract to the lowest bidder, who took the lot + at four francs. The instant the bargain was closed, he and half the crowd + fell upon the pile as if they had been wild beasts, and it disappeared + like a-pint of whiskey among a dozen backwoodsmen. At the station, after + we had paid the money agreed upon, they had an awful row dividing it, and + there seemed to be at one time a brilliant prospect of a homicide. + </p> + <p> + The history of the Suez canal enterprise was given to the world with great + minuteness of detail, at the time of its opening in 1869, and I shall not + attempt a description of it here. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0182" id="linkimage-0182"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5458.jpg" alt="5458 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5458.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">446</span><a name="link446" id="link446"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0183" id="linkimage-0183"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0459.jpg" alt="0459 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0459.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0035" id="link2HCH0035"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXV—IN AND AROUND THE CITY OF THE CALIPHS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Costly Breakfast—Ismailia—The Palace of the Khedive—On + an Egyptian Railroad Train—Rolling Through the Desert—The + Delta of the Nile, What Is It?—The Garden of Egypt—Cairo—The + Mighty Pyramids—Life at an Egyptian Hotel—Sights of the + Capital—Cairo of To-Day—Occidental Progress and Oriental + Conservatism—Burglaries and Other Modern Improvements—Cosmopolitan + Costumes—A Harem Taking an Airing—A Daring Robbery—The + Battle-Field of the Pyramids—Slaughter of the Mamelukes—Singular + Escape of Emir Bey.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E breakfasted at + the only hotel in Ismailia, paying a frightfully high price for the meal, + and then we hastened to the railway station to take the train to Cairo. We + had no time to look about the town, but the little we saw was pleasing. + The houses were embowered in trees, and there were pretty gardens here and + there, some of them very tastefully arranged. There was a broad avenue + from the landing place to the railway station, and there is a well-built + quay, more than a mile long. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive has a palace here that looks, from a distance, like a + comfortable and cozy residence, and there has lately sprung up a + sea-bathing establishment on the shores of the lake. Port Said and + Ismailia are the urban results of the canal; the former is practical and + the latter is both practical and beautiful. + </p> + <p> + We waited at the station nearly an hour, the train being somewhat late in + coming from Suez. Finally it appeared and we entered it. + </p> + <p> + The coaches were not attractive in the way of cleanliness and comfort, and + we were rather more crowded than we liked to be. <span class="pagenum">447</span><a + name="link447" id="link447"></a>We moved off at a dignified pace, along + the banks of the Sweetwater Canal, and with the desert stretching out + around us. + </p> + <p> + There is very little to be seen on the railway journey from Ismailia to + Cairo. Part of the way we were in the desert, and a part of the way we + skirted the rich delta of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0184" id="linkimage-0184"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8460.jpg" alt="8460 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8460.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We passed towns and villages in great number, and saw fields bright with + verdure, although it was midwinter. Men were at work in the fields, with + no abundance of clothing, and half-naked children were playing + out-of-doors as they might play in New York in August. + </p> + <p> + We made brief stoppages at half a dozen stations, possibly at double that + number, as I kept no reckoning, and about six hours after leaving Ismailia + we saw the Pyramids sharply outlined against the western sky, where the + sun was setting, as they have stood outlined for more than forty + centuries; and as dusk had fallen and darkness was gathering around us, we + rolled into the station at Cairo, and were speedily in the midst of a + noisy crowd of the usual attendance upon arriving trains. Soon we ran all + the gauntlets of the station and its surroundings, and were quartered in + the comfortable Hotel du Nil. + </p> + <p> + It was after six o’clock in the evening when we reached the hotel, + and we had just time to prepare for dinner when the bell announced that + the meal was ready. It was the first of January, <span class="pagenum">448</span><a + name="link448" id="link448"></a>and the proprietor stood treat on the + occasion, everybody being liberally supplied with champagne. The hotel + seemed to promise well, and we went to bed contented and happy. + </p> + <p> + Twenty years ago or more, Cairo was far more Oriental than it is to-day. + There was no railway in Egypt, and travellers were not numerous. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0185" id="linkimage-0185"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9461.jpg" alt="9461 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9461.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The few that came here were not sufficient to manners and habits of the + people. The foreign population was small, and left nearly everything in + the hands of the natives, and the foreigners in the service of the + government were few and far between, and generally in irresponsible + positions. <i>Maintenant ou a changé tout cela</i>. + </p> + <p> + Egypt has her network of railways and her maritime canal; she has + telegraphs, she has steamboats, she has a navy, armed with rifled cannon, + she has an army, many of whose officers have come from other lands, and + whose soldiers are supplied with breech-loading guns of the most approved + patterns. The foreign quarter of Cairo contains inhabitants from all parts + of Europe, and they can be counted by the thousand. The city can boast of + parks and gardens of great beauty; tall buildings of stone rise above the + humble edifices of Arab architecture, and there are wide streets and + boulevards, where the smooth pavement supports the wheels of elegant + carriages of European manufacture, drawn by horses of great beauty and + value. + </p> + <p> + The costume of the Occident mingles with that of the Orient; the Frank + jostles against the native; the church rises in sight of the mosque; and + the sound of Christian worship mingles with the voice of the Muezzin as he + chants in the minaret the call + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">449</span><a name="link449" id="link449"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0186" id="linkimage-0186"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0462.jpg" alt="0462 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0462.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">451</span><a name="link451" id="link451"></a>for the + faithful to assemble at prayer. You may see a group of women, closely + veiled and mounted on donkeys, under the escort of a tall eunuch, whose + features and complexion mark his Nubian origin. It is the harem of a + Moslem out for an airing, and you may seek in vain to penetrate the veils + that cover the faces of the fair riders. Their baggy dresses are puffed + out like balloons, as the breeze blows against them, and they are as much + Oriental as though they had stepped from the pages of the Arabian Nights. + </p> + <p> + The next minute there comes before you a handsome carriage, drawn by a + pair of high-stepping horses, and containing a beautiful woman dressed in + all the taste and elegance of Paris or New York. It is the wife, perhaps, + of a resident foreigner, and you may see many carriages and many occupants + in the course of your promenade. The procession on the donkeys makes way + for the vehicle, and halts until it passes. Thus the customs of the + Occident are invading the once dull and listless East. + </p> + <p> + Cairo has grown rapidly in wealth and importance in the past score of + years, particularly in the last decade. The Moslem is no longer supreme in + commerce as of yore, and finds it useless to sit idly and wait for a + customer, as once was his wont. The bustling habit of the European is + becoming engrafted upon the country, and the railway and telegraph are + teaching to the people the value of time and the disadvantages of the old + modes of locomotion. Builders are busy in Cairo, and large edifices, on + the plan of Paris, are completed, or in the process of erection. + </p> + <p> + The new part of Cairo can boast of straight avenues, with lines of shade + trees and with rows of well-built houses, from whose windows peep out + women, whose unveiled faces show they are not of Moslem faith. While I was + in Egypt, a gentleman arrived there after an absence of more than twenty + years. He told me he could not recognize that part of Cairo beyond the + Ezbekieh gardens. All was changed, and where once were open fields or + waste places, there are now the streets and avenues of a city. + </p> + <p> + There is a handsome bridge of iron across the Nile, and there is a broad + and well-built carriage-road from Cairo to the foot of the great Pyramids + at Gizeh. Steamboats are plying on the <span class="pagenum">452</span><a + name="link452" id="link452"></a>river, and factories rear their tall + chimneys on the land. Rows and rows of shops are conducted by foreign + capital and tended by foreign men. The streets are lighted with gas, and + it is proposed to provide them with wooden pavement, like that which has + found favor in many American cities. The post-office is efficiently + managed, and so is the police—both of them on the European model. + </p> + <p> + The temperance of the Orient may prevail among the original inhabitants, + but the foreigners manage to get drunk with as much freedom as they would + at home, and likewise to be arrested and fined. And so many Christians + have found their way there, that crime can be no longer suppressed. + </p> + <p> + While I was in Cairo there was a burglary that would have done honor to + London or New York. A jewelry establishment was entered at night, and + property to the value of six thousand pounds sterling was taken. The + robbers entered by breaking a hole in a side wall, and they took away + everything, except a quantity of clocks, that were evidently too + cumbersome. Not a watch, not a piece of jewelry of any kind was left + behind, and the fellows got clean away. Does not this sound like + civilization? + </p> + <p> + Polygamy is growing unpopular, and the natives are becoming content to + live with one wife each, according to the Western custom. And, still + following the Western custom, they abuse her, and stay out late of nights, + at the club or the theatre, or somewhere else, and are not over liberal in + supplying her pecuniary wants. Slavery is not altogether suppressed, but + is greatly restricted, and has no legal protection. Gambling houses + abound, not only for native, but for foreign patronage, and to judge by + the number of these places, the foreigners that come here are fond of + combats with the tiger. + </p> + <p> + I might name many other indications of the change that has come over + Egypt, but the foregoing must suffice. + </p> + <p> + One of our first excursions was to the Citadel. Its character is shown by + its name; it was built in 1166, by Saladin, as a defence to the city, but + the site was rather unwisely selected, as it is dominated by the Mokattam—a + hill directly behind it—and has once been taken by batteries, + stationed on the latter eminence. It is strong enough to resist an attack + by small arms, <span class="pagenum">453</span><a name="link453" + id="link453"></a>and some of its towers are quite massive and picturesque. + It is quite extensive, and contains a palace and a mosque, the latter + built almost entirely of alabaster. The interior of the mosque is + particularly rich, in consequence of the material used in its + construction, and the arches have a curious effect, quite impossible to + describe in writing. The palace also abounds in the same material, and + contains some very handsome rooms. + </p> + <p> + But the great charm of the citadel is the view from the platform. One can + look upon the Nile and a portion of its rich valley, and on nearly the + whole city of Cairo. The roofs of the houses are below the feet of the + observer, and there are only the highest minarets of the mosques to + approach him in elevation. In the west are the Pyramids, standing in the + edge of the desert, and looking more grand than when one sees them from + the bank of the river. + </p> + <p> + The best time for this view is at sunset, and if the air is clear there + are few pictures anywhere in the world to surpass it. There is a wonderful + contrast between the flat roofs and domes and minarets of the city, and + the rich green of the open country beyond. Altogether the view from the + Citadel at sunset is one that should not be missed by a visitor to Cairo, + and once enjoyed it is not likely to be speedily forgotten. + </p> + <p> + We were shown the spot where one of the Mamelukes saved himself, by + jumping his horse over a wall and down upon a pile of rubbish thirty or + more feet below. The horse was killed, but the rider was not hurt. + </p> + <p> + Mohammed Ali found the Mamelukes troublesome, just as the Janizaries were + in Constantinople, and he determined to get rid of them. He invited them + to a banquet at the palace, and they came in their richest suits, and when + they were all in the courtyard of the palace, his Albanian body guard + opened fire upon them from the surrounding windows and from the crenelated + walls. The gates had been shut, and there was no chance of escape, and all + were slaughtered except Emir Bey, the one who saved himself in the way + mentioned. This little incident occurred in 1811, and put an end to the + disturbances that the Mamelukes frequently created. + </p> + <p> + Mohammed Ali loved peace and quietness and was willing to <span + class="pagenum">454</span><a name="link454" id="link454"></a>do anything + in reason to secure them. The Mamelukes were constantly making trouble, + and rendering the throne insecure; in fact they had the power of saying + who should or should not be the ruler of the land. Is there anything more + natural, than that he should study how to get rid of them, and in such a + way that his motives could not be questioned? If he had asked them to come + to his palace and be killed, there is every reason to believe they would + have remained away; at any rate some of them would have been fastidious, + and declined his polite invitation, so that his scheme for bagging them + all would have failed. It was much better to invite them to a banquet; a + man is much more likely to go to a good dinner, than to accept the honors + of a butchery in which he is to occupy an objective place. Some men are so + particular. + </p> + <p> + Why didn’t he poison them at the banquet, some one may ask. + Poisoning isn’t respectable, and besides, you always run a risk of + changing glasses with somebody, and getting into your own stomach the + arsenic you intended for his. Servants are careless at dinner, and then + you always have some guests, who don’t drink and are quite likely to + detest the particular kind of soup or pie where you have placed your + medicine. Besides, when you poison a man, he has no time to prepare for + death, while in a massacre like this he has lots of it. The Mamelukes that + were not shot at the first fire had at least a quarter of a minute for + preparation, as it would take quite that time to open the windows and + level the rifles. Then you must add the period required for the bullets to + go from the rifles to the Mamelukes, and altogether you will conclude that + the time must have hung heavy on their hands. Those not killed at the + first fire, had the additional time required for reloading, and you must + remember, before condemning Mohammed Ali for taking them unawares, that + the rifles of that day were charged at the muzzle and were much slower to + load than the Sharps, and Mansers, and Chassepots of our time. + </p> + <p> + The more you study this massacre of the Mamelukes, the more you must + admire Mohammed Ali for the way he managed it He attended to the details, + and did no bungling work. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">455</span><a name="link455" id="link455"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0187" id="linkimage-0187"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0468.jpg" alt="0468 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0468.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">457</span><a name="link457" id="link457"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0188" id="linkimage-0188"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0470.jpg" alt="0470 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0470.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0036" id="link2HCH0036"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVI—AN INTERVIEW WITH THE KHEDIVE.—LIFE IN THE CITY + OF THE NILE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Khedive, who is he?—A hard-worked Pasha—His personal + habits—My interview with him—Adventures of an old hat—Arranging + ourselves for a royal reception—An eastern Monarch in a European + dress—An unimpeachable costume—A fluent talker—Bedouin + Reporters—A carriage from the Harem—Two pair of bright eyes—Unveiling + the women—A talk with a couple of pigmies—A nation of + dwarf-warriors—My impressions of the Khedive.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">M</span>OHAMMED Ali, the + founder of the present ruling family of Egypt, was a man of great ability, + but his energies were devoted to repairing the damages done by the + misfortunes that preceded his reign, rather than to marking out new paths + of progress for Egypt. At the time of his death in 1848 the country was + much the same as in the early part of the century. + </p> + <p> + Under the rulers that succeeded him, particularly under Said Pasha, some + progress was made; but it was not until the present Viceroy, Ismail Pasha, + ascended the throne, that Egypt began her career of improvement. There + were a few steamboats on the Lower Nile before his time, and the + construction of the Suez canal had been begun, but the railway was + practically unknown, and the cities and villages were in much the same + condition that they had been for a long time. Nearly all the great public + works owe their origin to the present Khedive, Ismail Pasha, and he can + point with pride to Egypt as she stands to-day. + </p> + <p> + If anybody imagines that it is easy work to be king, he would change his + mind, if he could, for a few weeks, make an exchange of places with Ismail + Pasha. There is not, I was told, a more <span class="pagenum">458</span><a + name="link458" id="link458"></a>industrious man in the country than the + Khedive. He rises early, takes his bath and makes his toilet; then he + takes a light breakfast and sits down to work a little past seven o’clock, + and sometimes before that hour. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0189" id="linkimage-0189"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9471.jpg" alt="9471 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9471.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + There are a lot of documents to examine, and questions to decide, which + occupy him until eight o’clock, when his ministers arrive, and he + holds counsel with them on matters connected with their different + departments. + </p> + <p> + Thus his time is consumed till near eleven o’clock or between ten + and eleven, when he gives audiences to miscellaneous officials, to the + foreign representatives and to strangers whom they have arranged to + introduce to His Highness. This lasts until noon when he retires to + breakfast and a rest of an hour or so; then he generally takes a drive in + his carriage, and very often has one of his ministers to accompany him, so + that quite possibly he combines pleasure with business, by discussing + affairs of state during the drive. + </p> + <p> + The latter part of the day is passed according to circumstances. Sometimes + there will be more bureau duty and ministerial interviews; sometimes there + are state dinners and court ceremonies, and sometimes an important matter + will come up unexpectedly, so that business and ceremony are crowded close + together. Sometimes he attends the opera in the evening, but this not + often, and when he goes there he does not remain to the end. He retires + early, so as to have plenty of rest, and he lives very carefully and + regularly. He is said to be abstemious in matters of food and drink, for + only by his regular habits could he preserve his health through so much + hard work as he performs. + </p> + <p> + Through the kindness of Mr. Beardsley, our diplomatic agent and + Consul-General for Egypt, I had the pleasure, one day, of an interview + with the Khedive. At a visit to the palace a few days before, Mr. + Beardsley had asked to present two of his fellow countrymen, Mr. Bayard + Taylor and myself, and on the same evening he received notice that + half-past ten on the day in question had been fixed for the reception. We + were notified at once, and accordingly crowded our slender forms into our + dress suits, brushed our stove-pipe hats into the best available + appearance, and sallied forth from our hotel. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0190" id="linkimage-0190"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8472.jpg" alt="8472 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8472.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">459</span><a name="link459" id="link459"></a> + </p> + <p> + Candor compels me to say that my hat was not new, and had passed through a + variety of experiences by sea and land, in rain and dust, and in numerous + mishaps that had creased, and indented, and thread-bared its once glossy + skin and faultless shape. + </p> + <p> + It had been new once, but since then I had transported it across Europe, + summered it in Vienna, taken it down the Danube, into Southern Russia, + through the Crimea and carried it to Constantinople, Athens, and Smyrna, + into Syria and Palestine, and thence into Egypt. + </p> + <p> + Don’t you think that a hat which has been through so much would need + a great deal of polishing to fit it for a vice-regal presentation? + </p> + <p> + But it went through the ordeal gloriously, and as I kept it behind me most + of the time, the Khedive never made—to me at least—any comment + about it. + </p> + <p> + As for Mr. Taylor—well, I may be revealing a secret and it may breed + a quarrel between us, but candor again compels me to speak out. His hat + wasn’t his hat but another gentleman’s, borrowed for the + occasion, or if it wasn’t it might have been. I never saw him wear + it before, and it was much better than mine, <span class="pagenum">460</span><a + name="link460" id="link460"></a>which was only fit to be seen when out of + sight. Mr. Taylor ought to have been proud of that hat when he compared it + with the one I carried, but if he was, he was too polite to hurt my + feelings, and didn’t manifest any haughtiness. + </p> + <p> + Accompanied by Mr. Beardsley, we drove to the Abdeen Palace, where the + Khedive resides with his family,—a neat and substantial looking + edifice, in the western part of Cairo. As we entered the courtyard and + drove to the door, the sentinels on duty presented arms, and we were met + at the doorway by Murad Pasha, the Master of Ceremonies, who greeted us + cordially and escorted us to the waiting room on the ground floor. + </p> + <p> + Here we spent some fifteen minutes,—as we were ahead of time—in + conversation with the Master of Ceremonies and with Ibrahim Pasha, nephew + of the Khedive. The secretary and assistant secretary of the Khedive were + present, and we were introduced to both. The time passed away rapidly, as + all were fluent in French and the conversation was not confined to + particular topics. + </p> + <p> + Promptly at half-past ten we were ushered up one side of a double + staircase, that turned and formed a single broad escalier, a dozen steps + or so below the audience floor. Murad Pasha accompanied us to the foot of + the broad stairway, and thence we—the Consul-General and ourselves—proceeded + alone. As I raised my eyes I saw the Khedive standing carelessly at the + further side of the room; when he caught site of our advancing column he + stepped forward to meet us. He first greeted Mr. Beardsley, who followed + the greeting by introducing Mr. Taylor with a few carefully chosen and + appropriate words concerning him. Then came my turn, and while the + Consul-General was making the introduction, the Khedive shook hands with + us and welcomed us to his house. He then led the way to the audience room, + a smaller parlor, overlooking the court yard. + </p> + <p> + The reception hall, where he met us, was furnished in the French style, + with large mirrors and Parisian furniture; the audience parlor, whither we + followed him, was similarly adorned in European style, with chairs and + sofas covered with snow-white linen, and with a marble table in the + centre. The walls were covered with blue paper, figured with small flowers + of a grayish tint, <span class="pagenum">461</span><a name="link461" + id="link461"></a>and the curtains and fixtures were in harmony with the + walls. A tasteful chandelier above the table was filled with candles, + ready for lighting, and on the table was a box of cigars, which, + doubtless, were equally ready for lighting. + </p> + <p> + If we had gone there expecting to find the ruler of Egypt wearing baggy + trowsers and a turban and smoking a <i>nargileh</i>, we should have been + greatly disappointed. His dress is entirely European, with the single + exception of the <i>fez</i>, or <i>tarboosh</i>, which covers his head. + His coat and trowsers were of English cut; the former was double-breasted, + with silk trimmings on the lappels, and he wore it buttoned after the + style of a morning or walking coat in London or New York. + </p> + <p> + His shirt-front was almost entirely concealed by a black cravat or + necktie, fastened at the crossing with a single pin of what appeared to be + a ruby; beyond this pin he wore no jewelry whatever. His spotless white + collar was turned down, and from the neatness of its fit and the careful + polish it presented, I judge that he has a better laundress than I was + able to find in Cairo. I was on the point of asking him to recommend me to + her, but forebore, on the supposition that he might prefer to keep such a + good washwoman to himself. + </p> + <p> + The figure of the Khedive is not of the lean and hungry kind; he appears + to be about five feet nine in height, and is decidedly inclined to + stoutness, without being ill-proportioned. + </p> + <p> + Physically, he appears to have lived well, without any overfeeding. His + face is full and broad, and he wears a closely-trimmed beard and moustache + of a brownish hue. When in repose, his face is quite thoughtful, but as + soon as he begins to talk it lightens up, and there is a constant play of + animation over all his features. His brown eyes sparkle, and he + accompanies his facial expression with frequent gestures of his hands, + quite in contrast to the solemn and stately manner which we associate with + Oriental rulers. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive took a seat in the corner of the room, and motioned us to + places near him, one on his right and two on his left, so that he could + address all three without any necessity for a change of position beyond a + very slight turning of the head. He began the conversation by asking Mr. + Taylor if this was his <span class="pagenum">462</span><a name="link462" + id="link462"></a>first visit to Egypt. The latter replied that he was + there twenty years ago and made a journey to the White Nile. + </p> + <p> + “Ah, yes,” said His Highness, “that was in the time of + Abbas Pasha.” + </p> + <p> + Mr. Taylor bowed assent, and remarked the wonderful changes that had taken + place since that time, and the great progress that he noticed all around, + to which the Khedive made acknowledgment by a slight but graceful bow. + </p> + <p> + There was a pause of a few seconds, which was broken by a question from + Mr. Beardsley as to the latest intelligence from; the upper country, where + the Egyptian troops had a battle with the army of the King of Darfoor. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing very recent,” was the reply of the Khedive; “nothing + since the news two or three weeks ago of the battle in which the King was + defeated. The report was that the King attacked our forces, and was + defeated with heavy loss, but it must have been his son, as the King + himself, <i>le pauvre diable</i>, is totally blind, and couldn’t do + much in leading an army. I am sure it must have been his son, though the + dispatch did not say so.” + </p> + <p> + Conversation then went on, concerning Darfoor and its extent and + resources. The Khedive spoke of the effort he was making for the + suppression of the slave-trade, and said they had a force stationed there + to watch the frontier and liberate the slaves which were being transported + by caravans. + </p> + <p> + “The Bedouins inform us,” said he, “of the movements of + the caravans, so that we have no difficulty in knowing where they are. We + have told the Darfoorians that we do not wish to interfere with them, only + in stopping the slave trade, and we are on good terms with them, except in + this one matter.” + </p> + <p> + He said, further, that the Darfoorian army had four cannon, and that in + the recent battle the Egyptians took three of them. + </p> + <p> + I asked him where they obtained the cannon, and he said, with a smile, + that two of them were sent as a present from Said Pasha, the former + Viceroy, to the King of Darfoor. These two guns were among the three + captured; the third was a very old and nearly useless piece that the + Darfoorians bought, probably, from some of the traders to the sea-coast, + and the other gun which they still retained was of the same sort. <span + class="pagenum">463</span><a name="link463" id="link463"></a>I asked what + kind of small arms the Darfoorians had, and he replied that, in addition + to their lances and bows and arrows, they had flint-lock muskets, quite + inadequate for coping with the breech-loading rifles with which his own + army is equipped. + </p> + <p> + After some further talk about the Darfoorians and the country of the + Soudan, which Egypt has recently explored, and continues to explore, the + conversation turned upon the pigmies, which had been brought from Central + Africa. The Khedive gave us some interesting details about them, and + recommended that we should go and see them at the <i>Kasr-el-Nil</i> + barracks, where they were then kept. There was a brief conversation about + the explorations of Livingstone, Schweinfurth, and Miani, and when it + ended, the Khedive rose, and we did likewise. He accompanied us to the + head of the staircase, gave each a farewell hand-shake, and said, in + addition to the usual phrases of civility, “If I can be of any + service to you, do not hesitate to inform me.” + </p> + <p> + We thanked him for his proffered kindness, bowed our adieux, and descended + the stairway. At the foot we were met by the Master of Ceremonies, who + accompanied us to the waiting-room, where we had left our overcoats, and + subsequently accompanied us to our carriage. + </p> + <p> + Our interview with the Khedive lasted about twenty minutes. He speaks + French easily and correctly, and without any hesitation whatever. His + manner throughout was easy and frank, and thoroughly pleasant, and such as + to remove any embarrassment on the part of a visitor. There were touches + of humor in his utterances, which cannot be rendered into English without + losing their charm, and therefore I will not attempt to give them. + </p> + <p> + From the Abdeen palace we drove to the barracks of <i>Kasr-el-Nil</i> to + see the little men about whom His Highness had told us. Just as we left + the palace, we met one of the harem carriages, containing two women, + guarded by a couple of soldiers and the same number of eunuchs. The four + were on splendid horses, the soldiers preceding and the eunuchs following + the carriage. The blind of the carriage was down, and as the vehicle + whisked rapidly past us, I caught sight of a couple of veiled faces with + flashing bright eyes, and with pretty features just visible beneath the + thin gauze. <span class="pagenum">464</span><a name="link464" id="link464"></a>It + was a passing vision, a glimpse of a moment, that left no impression that + could be retained. It is an impression which one receives quite often in + Cairo, if he chooses to look toward the harem carriages when making their + afternoon promenade. The family of the Khedive are more fortunate than + that of any other Mohammedan ruler, as it can ride in carriages and see + far more of out-door life than the royal ladies of other Eastern cities. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive is no bigot, as many things indicate. I was told, though how + truly I cannot say, that he is quite willing to allow his wives to appear + unveiled after the European manner, and that probably they will do so + before many years. I fancy that the prejudices of the women would be found + stronger than his. Custom of long standing declares that no modest woman + goes with her face uncovered. To ask a Mohammedan woman to unveil her face + in public, would be as bad as to request a fashionable belle of New York + to walk along Fifth Avenue in the costume of the Black Crook. + </p> + <p> + As we entered the parade ground of the barracks, we saw what appeared to + be a couple of negro boys, playing at one side, and ascertained on + inquiry, that they were the dwarfs or pigmies, for whom we were searching. + We called them up and examined them closely, and they were certainly rare + curiosities. There were only two, the taller said to be twenty and the + shorter ten years old; we measured their height, and found them + respectively forty-six and forty-three inches in their shoes; the younger, + as he stood beside me, came not quite up to my hip. The eldest measured + twenty-four inches around the chest and twenty-seven around the waist; + their abdomens protruded considerably, and their backs were quite hollow. + </p> + <p> + This excessive protuberance of the abdomen is probably due to their + vegetable diet, as the Khedive had told us that they lived, when at home, + almost entirely on bananas and similar fruits. They stood quite erect,—I + held a stick perpendicularly behind each of them, and found that when + their heads touched it, their backs were more than two inches from it. + </p> + <p> + Their necks are short, their limbs well formed, though they are somewhat + bowed in the legs, and their feet are long and flat. Their heads are a + curious study. The complexion is not the <span class="pagenum">465</span><a + name="link465" id="link465"></a>deepest black of the negro of Nubia, but + has rather a brownish hue; their hair is woolly, and their noses are flat, + as though broken in with a hammer. + </p> + <p> + On looking down over the forehead of the elder, I could see the lips + protruding beyond the nose; and it appeared too, that the nostrils + extended further than did the centre of the organ of smell. The lips are + full and rounded, but less thick than those of the negro generally. Their + faces were bright, and had a pleasing appearance, though not indicating a + high intellect. + </p> + <p> + Accompanying them was a “Dinka” negro, from the White Nile, + and Mr. Taylor questioned him in Arabic about the pigmies and their + country. He said these men came from a region in the interior, and that it + took the caravans a year and a half to go there and return. Very little + was known about the pigmies, beyond the fact that their country is quite + extensive, and all the people are of diminutive size. The King was no + larger than the taller of the two before us, and they are a warlike + people, who fight very earnestly to prevent anybody visiting them. Their + country is covered with jungle, and they conceal themselves in the + thickets and send showers of arrows upon the invaders. + </p> + <p> + We endeavored to get them to talk, but they would not. One of the soldiers + told them to speak, but the elder turned away rather sullenly, and would + not utter a word. The soldiers said their language was quite unlike + Arabic, Nubian, or any other that they ever heard, and further said the + pair talked a great deal and very rapidly, when playing together. The name + of the elder was Tubal, and that of the younger Karrell, and they call + their country “Takka-lakka-leeka.” + </p> + <p> + Dr. Schweinfurth, the distinguished German explorer, learned something + about these people; but it was the good fortune of Miani, an Italian, who + had been a long time in Africa, to visit them and secure three specimens, + two men and a woman, with whom he started for Europe. But he died while + still in the wilds of Africa, and his papers and effects, including the + three pigmies, were sent to Khartoum. There they were seized, to cover + certain debts of Miani’s to merchants in Khartoum, and the pigmies, + who were supposed to be slaves, were thrown into prison, where the woman + died. They were not kept there long, <span class="pagenum">466</span><a + name="link466" id="link466"></a>as the facts about them were speedily made + known, and soon after their release from prison they were sent to Cairo. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive showed a deep interest in the subject of the country of the + dwarfs and its peculiar population, and quite probably the expeditions he + has since sent into Central Africa were instructed to learn something more + of them and to penetrate the remote district if possible. + </p> + <p> + During our conversation he called special attention to the fact, that a + dwarf of any race has a head disproportionately large, and arms or legs + disproportionately long or short. “But you will see,” said he, + “that these little men are perfectly formed, like a well-shaped + adult, with the exception of the abdomen, which is due to their vegetable + diet, and that the elder has hands and fingers like those of a person who + has reached his full size.” We looked for dwarfish peculiarities, + but found none, and were quite of the opinion of others who have examined + them, that they are a race of pigmies. + </p> + <p> + From the Kasr-el-Nil we drove through the new part of Cairo, along the + broad macadamized streets, and after dropping the Consul-General at his + residence, returned to our hotel with the reflection that we had passed an + agreeable, interesting, and instructive forenoon. + </p> + <p> + I was particularly struck with the thorough information of the Khedive, + and the interest he manifested concerning the pigmies, and about Darfoor + and other subjects of our conversation, and asked Mr. Beardsley if he was + equally well informed about matters in general. + </p> + <p> + “Equally so,” was the reply. “I don’t see how he + manages to keep so well posted as he does; he has a remarkably retentive + memory about everything, whether of business or any other matter. When I + mention anything that we may have talked about weeks before, he remembers + how it was left at that interview, and shows that it has by no means + passed his mind.” + </p> + <p> + “He knows the course of European, Asiatic, and American politics; + understands the religious questions in England and France, and any other + important topic; has the run of affairs in Spain or other revolutionary + countries, and is, in fact, <i>up</i> in all the news of the day. He must + read a great deal when we think <span class="pagenum">467</span><a + name="link467" id="link467"></a>he is at rest, and he must remember all + that he reads. He attends personally to all the affairs of the country, + and though he leaves the details to his ministers, there is no question, + except of a very trivial nature, that is not submitted to him for + decision. Any matter concerning the government in any way, goes through + the department to which it belongs, but must always go before the Khedive + before it can be decided.” + </p> + <p> + The title, Khedive, is a Persian one, equivalent to “viceroy,” + or, as some persons assert, to “king.” The ruler I have been + describing is the first occupant of the Egyptian throne to wear the title. + He is addressed in conversation as “Your Highness,” and is + generally spoken of as “His Highness.” The ministers of state + and other high dignitaries in Egypt are known as “Excellencies,” + and to address one of them without the prefix, “<i>Votre Excellence</i>,” + might give offence. They hold rank as pashas, and are nearly always + gentlemen of liberal education and marked ability. “Pasha,” + like “Khedive,” is of Persian origin; it is of great + antiquity, and was originally used to designate the governor of a city or + province. There are several grades of pashas, just as in our country there + are several grades of generals. In some parts of the Orient the pasha, + when he goes abroad, is preceded by an officer bearing a pole, from which + is suspended the insignia of the great man’s rank. + </p> + <p> + If he is a first-class pasha, his rank is indicated by three horse tails, + and he is called a pasha of three tails. Then there are pashas of two + tails (much more common than cats with two tails), and there are also + one-tailed pashas. + </p> + <p> + Soon after I left Egypt, one of the high officials was removed and + furnished with an indefinite leave of absence. A friend, writing me from + Cairo, stated the case thus: + </p> + <p> + “You may have heard of the change whereby the head of one of the + departments has become a pasha of no tail whatever.” Which was not a + bad way of putting it. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">468</span><a name="link468" id="link468"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0191" id="linkimage-0191"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0481.jpg" alt="0481 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0481.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0037" id="link2HCH0037"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVII—STREET-LIFE IN CAIRO. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Cairo, old and new—A visit to the ancient city—The + Nilometer, What is it?—Measuring the rise of the Nile—Moses in + the Bulrushes—Tombs of the Caliphs—An Egyptian funeral—Curious + customs—“Crowding the Mourners”—Water-carriers and + their ways—A noisy tobacco-vender—Glimpses of the Arabian + Nights—Among the Bazaars—Street scenes in Cairo—A + cavalcade of Donkeys—Hoaxing a Donkey-boy—Amusing spectacle—Putting + up a ride at auction—An Arab story—A Nation of Liars and why!—Mosques + of Cairo—Stones from the Great Pyramid.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">C</span>AIRO consists of + two cities, the new and the old, and they are two or three miles apart. + Old Cairo is on the bank of the river, near the island of Roda, and is + quite picturesque, being, full of narrow, crooked streets, where one must + be very cautious to prevent being run over. The windows project so far + over the street that they frequently touch, and it would be the easiest + matter in the world to go from one to another. The city was formerly much + more extensive than now, and many of its houses are in a ruinous + condition. + </p> + <p> + From old Cairo we went to the island of Roda to see the famous Nilometer, + where the rise of the river during the inundation is recorded. It is + nothing more than a deep pit or well, with a column in the center, marked + with a graduated scale. This Nilometer is about a thousand years old. + There is a more ancient one at the island of Elephantine, near the first + cataract, and history records that there was one in use at the time of the + Pharaohs. Near the present Nilometer is the spot said by tradition to be + that where the infant Moses was found by Pharaoh’s daughter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0192" id="linkimage-0192"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0482.jpg" alt="0482 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0482.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">469</span><a name="link469" id="link469"></a>The + island is quite pretty and is covered with fruit and other gardens. + Outside the city, and close to the border of the desert, are the tombs of + the Barghite Sultans, which are generally called, though erroneously, the + tombs of the Caliphs. The real burying places of the Caliphs of Cairo are + in the city, not far from the bazaars, and in the busiest part of this + very busy capital. + </p> + <p> + The Moslem awaits death with the utmost composure. When a learned or pious + Moslem feels that he is about to die, he performs the ordinary ablution, + as before prayer, that he may depart from life in a state of bodily + purity; and he generally repeats the profession of his faith. It is not + uncommon for a Moslem on a military expedition, or during a long journey + through the desert, to carry his grave linen with him. It often happens + that a traveler in such circumstances has even to make his own grave; + completely overcome by fatigue or privation, or sinking under a fatal + disease in the desert, when his companions, if he have any, cannot wait + for his recovery or death, he performs the ablution, with water, if + possible, or, if not with sand or dust which is allowable in such case, + and then having made a trench in the sand as his grave, lies down in it + wrapped in his grave clothes, and covers himself with the exception of his + face with this and taken up in making the trench: thus he waits for death + to relieve him, trusting to the wind to complete his burial. + </p> + <p> + The ceremonies attendant upon death and burial are nearly the same in the + cases of men and women. When the rattles in the throat, or other symptoms, + show that a man is at the point of death, an attendant turns him round to + place his face in the direction of Mecca, and closes his eyes. + </p> + <p> + Many of the tombs of the Turkish grandees have marble <i>tarkeebehs</i> + which are canopied by cupolas supported by four columns of marble. There + are numerous tombs of this description in the cemetery at Cairo We were + rather disappointed in our visit to the tombs of the Sultans. They were + originally very handsome, but are now in a very ruinous condition, and + they bid fair to be altogether destroyed before many years. There were two + or three with lofty domes and minarets, quite like the mosques of Cairo. + They were really intended as mosques, in connection with the <span + class="pagenum">470</span><a name="link470" id="link470"></a>tombs, so as + to furnish praying places for the faithful whenever they wished to pay + respect to the dead. + </p> + <p> + From the outside and at a little distance they present a fine effect, with + their backing of sand-covered hills and the general surroundings of + approaching desolation. Inside we found portions of the smaller walls torn + away to be used in other buildings, and in one of the mosques, cows and + donkeys were stabled. The windows were broken and ragged. The floors were + dirty and the attendants were noisy Arabs, who seemed to have no other + object in remaining there than the collection of “backsheesh,” + in which they were most persistent. + </p> + <p> + At the cemetery near these tombs we saw a funeral procession and followed + it, out of curiosity. Half a dozen men, some of them blind, and each + resting a hand on the shoulder of another, led the way and chanted a + melancholy air. Then came a man with a small coffin borne on his head, and + behind him were half a dozen women and as many boys, the women closely + veiled according to the custom of the country. + </p> + <p> + The procession did not move in couples, according to the Occidental + custom; there was no observance of regularity, except that the men were in + front of the coffin and the women and boys behind it. They moved through + the country to a spot where a grave had been opened; near it the women + stopped and sat down, and the bearers placed the coffin on the ground, a + priest uttered a prayer, and then the man who had brought the coffin—a + sort of oblong box, with a shawl over it—removed the shawl, and took + from beneath it the corpse. + </p> + <p> + It was that of a child about two years old, and was completely wrapped in + cloth and bound around with cords, somewhat as one might wrap a bale of + goods to keep it from falling apart. The man advanced to the edge of the + grave, and placed the corpse inside, with very little ceremony, or rather, + with no ceremony at all. The women set up a mournful cry, and one of the + men of the party approached us and told our guide that they wished us to + retire. As soon as the request was translated, we walked away, feeling + that we had been guilty of an intrusion. + </p> + <p> + I saw several funeral processions in Cairo, and had previously seen them + in Damascus, Smyrna, and other Oriental cities. At <span class="pagenum">471</span><a + name="link471" id="link471"></a>all of them the custom was the same, the + singers preceding the corpse and the mourners following it. The one here + described was the burial of the child of a poor woman, and there was + little display and little ceremony. Some of the processions that came + under my notice were of considerable extent, the singers or chanters + numbering from fifty to a hundred, and being accompanied by mollahs or + priests. + </p> + <p> + The corpse, in such cases, was covered with rich shawls, and at the head + of the coffin there was a small post to sustain the cap worn by the + deceased. In the tombs of the wealthy these caps remain at the head of the + coffin, and the visitor to the tombs of the various Sultans of Turkey will + not fail to notice how invariably the fez is placed at the head of him who + once wore it. + </p> + <p> + The coffin is supported on the shoulders of four bearers, and there is + frequently a relay to take their places from time to time; and there is a + large following of friends of the deceased, some on foot, and some mounted + on donkeys, and from time to time a sound of wailing rises from the + mourning party. + </p> + <p> + Some of the mourners are professionals hired for the occasion, while + others belong to the family of the defunct. The crowd in the street does + not suspend its avocations, or pay the slightest sign of respect for the + procession, beyond making room for it to pass. And frequently persons in a + hurry, and wishing to cross the line of procession, do so without + ceremony. + </p> + <p> + A stranger in Cairo sees a great deal to amuse him, and if he keeps his + eyes open he can learn much that is new. + </p> + <p> + The water of the wells in Cairo is slightly brackish, and many people + obtain their livelihood by supplying the inhabitants with water from the + Nile. The water seller, or carrier, has across his shoulders what appears + to be a sack when carelessly observed, but proves on examination to be the + skin of a pig or a goat. The skin has been taken off as near whole as + possible and is then sewn up so that when filled with water it has the + shape of the animal that once wore it. It is filled through the neck, + which is not tied, but held in the hands of the bearer, who carries his + burden across his back and sustains it in place by means of a strong + strap. + </p> + <p> + Some of these water skins have a long neck and a nozzle that points into + the air like the muzzle of a rifle. The skin hangs on the <span + class="pagenum">472</span><a name="link472" id="link472"></a>bearer’s + back, and the spout is behind his shoulder; in his hands he has a couple + of brass cups, which he rattles to secure attention. + </p> + <p> + When he finds a customer, he fills one of the cups through the nozzle, and + the accuracy and skill he displays in the operation evince long practice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0193" id="linkimage-0193"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9487.jpg" alt="9487 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9487.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + As he walks along he calls out sometimes, “Moie, moie!” but + more frequently some Arabic words that mean, “O, ye thirsty! O, ye + thirsty!” and occasionally he adds something about the delights of a + cup of cool, delicious water, and sounds the praises of the special lot + that he carries. + </p> + <p> + I was told by persons who understand the language, that there is much + poetry in its every-day use, and the water carrier, as I have just + explained, is poetical in his appeals, and so are the street peddlers of + all grades. The venders of vegetables, of candy, of bread, and other + edibles do not, as a general thing, name the articles they have for sale, + but they address appeals to the hungry, allude to the tortures of hunger, + and the pleasure of satisfying it. The seller of shoes appeals to the + unshod, and beseeches them to go barefoot no longer. The seller of tobacco + calls to those who smoke and love the fragrant Latakiah, or the + invigorating Koranny. “O, ye man,” “O, ye woman,” + “O, ye old man,” is shouted by your donkey driver as he guides + you through the crowded streets, and he changes it to “O, ye people,” + when the number is so great that he cannot afford to address them in + detail. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">473</span><a name="link473" id="link473"></a>"Backsheesh, + O, Howadji,” (a present, O, gentlemen), is the appeal of the beggar + to the passing stranger. The dealer in fresh clover for donkeys’ + food chants, “From green fields I bring the odors of fresh verdure,” + and the squinting merchants in the Perfume Bazaar vaunt the praises of + their wares in words that fill the Moslem mind with thoughts of Paradise, + and bear it away from prosaic thoughts and duties of every-day life. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0194" id="linkimage-0194"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0488.jpg" alt="0488 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0488.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Somebody has said that to find a Princess Scheherazade, you have only to + scratch the back of your Cairene donkey boy, and with a slight + encouragement he will begin to talk in the strain of the Arabian Nights. I + found it so to some extent in my acquaintance with the Egyptian capital. + Most of the donkey drivers that frequent the fronts of the hotels can + speak English, and some of them quite well. They are as a class bright and + <span class="pagenum">474</span><a name="link474" id="link474"></a>intelligent, + and can be relied upon for information as to the customs of the people. + Their knowledge of localities is sufficient for all the purposes for which + a guide is usually employed, and as soon as our party, in its collective + capacity, were through with sight-seeing, we fell back upon the donkey + boys, and dismissed our professional guide. + </p> + <p> + Whether the Cairenes indulge to-day in stories like that of the Enchanted + Horse, and Sinbad the Sailor, I am unable to say, but in the matter of + scandal they are quite up to the Occidental mark. One of the donkey boys + at the hotel told me a variety of incidents connected with the harems, and + some of them are of a very apochryphal character. + </p> + <p> + There is one peculiarity of the Arab that a stranger will not be long in + detecting, and that is his readiness to answer each and every question you + may put to him. Ask him something, and if he knows the answer he will + generally give it; if he does not know, he will reply with anything that + his imagination suggests, and he does it as gravely as though he were + expounding a text of the Koran. + </p> + <p> + One day, I asked a donkey boy how much he would ask to take me to the + Astor House. + </p> + <p> + “Two shillin’,” was the prompt reply. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">475</span><a name="link475" id="link475"></a> + </p> + <p> + He hadn’t the remotest idea where it was, but did not hesitate a + moment to undertake to find it. So I asked him where it was. + </p> + <p> + “I savez, I savez; on the Esebekiah,” he replied, and pushed + his donkey around for me to enter the saddle Other boys came up, and I + said I wished to go the Astor House and Tammany Hall. + </p> + <p> + In half a minute the whole crowd was vociferating, and the price fell from + two shillings to two francs, and then to one shilling. I was obliged to + end the matter by hiring a donkey and going to the citadel. Every driver + was ready to take me to the places I mentioned, and was confident he could + find them. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs have a story which they tell, to account for their tendency to + falsehood. + </p> + <p> + They say that His Satanic Majesty once came on earth with nine bags full + of lies. He scattered the contents of one bag in Europe, and then started + for Asia, Africa, and the Oriental Isles. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">477</span><a name="link477" id="link477"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0195" id="linkimage-0195"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0490.jpg" alt="0490 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0490.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">492</span><a name="link492" id="link492"></a>He + arrived at Alexandria in the evening, and was to continue his work next + day, but during the night some wicked Arabs stole the other eight bags, + and distributed the contents among their people. + </p> + <p> + Cairo is not so rich in mosques as Constantinople, but there are several, + of no small importance. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0196" id="linkimage-0196"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8492.jpg" alt="8492 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8492.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The finest of these is that commonly known as Sultan Hassan; it stands + just below the citadel, and is a prominent feature in the view of the + city. The Cairenes are justly proud of it, and have a story that the King + cut off the hand of the architect, to make sure that he would not repeat + his work. + </p> + <p> + But as this little incident has had its run in all countries and ages, we + may conclude that the King did nothing of the sort. It is much more likely + that he compelled the architect to wait for his pay, and finally accept + fifty cents on the dollar. + </p> + <p> + The stones used for constructing this mosque, came from the great Pyramid; + some of them were recut, but the greater part are in their original shape. + The interior consists of a dome, resting on four grand arches, the eastern + one having a span of sixty-five and a half feet. The dome is of wood, and, + like many other domes in Cairo, is not kept in good repair. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">478</span><a name="link478" id="link478"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0197" id="linkimage-0197"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0493.jpg" alt="0493 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0493.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0038" id="link2HCH0038"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVIII—THE BAZAARS OF CAIRO.—EGYPTIAN CURIOSITY + SHOPS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>More About the Bazaars—How They Sell Goods in Cairo—Furniture, + Fleas, and Filth—Trading in Pipe Stems and Coffee Pots—A Queer + Collection of Bric-a-Brac—Driving Close Bargains—A Specimen of + Yankee Shrewdness—A Miniature Blacksmith Shop—A Cloud of + Perfumes—Gems, Guns, and Damascus Blades—An Arabian Auction—At + the Egyptian Opera—The Dancing Girls of Cairo—The Ladies from + the Harem—A Scanty Costume—The Ballet of “The Prodigal + Son”—The Ladies of the Opera and Their Life.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">O</span>NE of the first + objects of interest at Cairo is the great centre of trade, known as the + bazaars. They are not so compactly arranged as the bazaars of Damascus, or + of Constantinople, and in some features they are inferior to those of + either of the above cities; but they are nevertheless very interesting, + and never fail to charm the visitor. + </p> + <p> + Suppose you are in the newly added quarter of Cairo—say at the + French post-office—and wish to visit the bazaars. You pass along a + broad and macadamized street, with French shops on one side and a row of + unfinished buildings on the other, that have a Parisian appearance. With + two or three turnings in streets of this sort, you arrive at the Mooskee, + a broad street—broad for the Orient—leading into the native + portion of Cairo. + </p> + <p> + The Mooskee was once a sort of narrow lane, but was widened by one of the + former Pashas, not without opposition on the part of the Moslems. Here the + rows of foreign shops continue; they are French, Greek, Italian, English, + and German, arranged without any regard to nationalities. At first, they + are all foreign; as you advance, you see here and there a shop, attended + by a <span class="pagenum">479</span><a name="link479" id="link479"></a>native; + and as you go on and on, the natives increase in numbers, and the + foreigners decrease. At first the shops have windows and doors, and + counters, like those in London or Paris, but as you go on, you find here + and there one on the plan of the Orient, the front entirely open, and the + goods displayed from within to a customer standing in the street. + </p> + <p> + Here is a niche where was once a window; it has been walled up, and the + stones which close it are about eighteen inches inside the line. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0198" id="linkimage-0198"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8494.jpg" alt="8494 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8494.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + This space would be of no use in the West, but here in the East it has + been utilized, and we find a couple of cobblers squatted there, with their + benches of tools in front of them. Very small are these benches, and as + for the tools, they are not numerous. Further on we see open-fronted + shops, tended by foreigners, and close-fronted shops tended by natives; + then we come to a section where all the shops are open, and natives are + more and more numerous; finally, by turning,—we may go to the right + or left, as we choose,—under the shadow of a decaying mosque, we + enter the bazaars, and the habits and costumes of the Orientais rise + around us. + </p> + <p> + In many parts of the Mooskee there is a roof thrown quite across the + street, a roof consisting mainly of timbers, with openings through which + the light can stream and the rain can fall. Some of the Oriental cities + have the streets covered, and there are openings here and there, to admit + the light. Cairo is not covered, but her streets are so narrow, and the + house-tops project so far, that in many places the streets are rather + sombre, even at mid-day. Everywhere you see little balconies and + projecting windows, the latter covered with wooden grills or lattices, + through which women can see without being seen; however brightly the + lights of the harem <span class="pagenum">480</span><a name="link480" + id="link480"></a>may burn within, they cannot be observed from without. + The merchants in the shops find this dimness to their advantage, as it + gives to some of their wares the appearance of a fineness which they do + not possess. + </p> + <p> + Turning to the left out of the Mooskee, we entered the bazaar of + Khan-Haleel, so named after a Khan, which was built about’ six + hundred years ago, and is still standing without much alteration. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0199" id="linkimage-0199"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9495.jpg" alt="9495 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9495.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We entered the Khan and found a square court yard surrounded by rooms + opening upon it, where the merchants who come from other cities display + their wares and sleep at night. + </p> + <p> + The Khan, or caravansary, is of less consequence now than formerly, + throughout the parts of the East that have been invaded by railways; in + Aleppo, Bagdad and other inland places, its character is still retained. A + caravan arrives in a city, and a merchant belonging to it seeks a + caravansary, hires a room and displays his goods to whoever wishes to buy. + He pays a small rental and takes his meals where he likes; in the smaller + towns the master of the Khan will supply him with food, but not so in the + large cities. The furniture of the Khan consists generally of matting and + fleas in about equal portions; sometimes there is no matting, but the + fleas are sure to be on hand, and on the entire body as well. Orientals do + not mind them, and I am half inclined to believe that they would be + unhappy without those nimble little attendants. + </p> + <p> + The bazaars in the immediate vicinity of the Khan Haleel are mainly + devoted to the sale of pipe stems, coffee pots, and various odds and ends + of nearly everything. You can buy tobacco, old <span class="pagenum">481</span><a + name="link481" id="link481"></a>coins, boots, and jewelry; and there are + several shops whose native owners are devoted to the sale of European + nick-nacks. + </p> + <p> + Further on, you come to the jewelry bazaar; we entered it by a low door, + which had a flooring of soft mud, that induced some very careful walking + and brought one of our party to temporary grief. + </p> + <p> + The jewelry bazaar is a curious place. The street is about six feet wide, + in some places not over five, and you stand in the street or sit on the + front edge of the shop while making your bargains. Not more than two or + three persons should go there together; we were six, and we blocked up the + whole way, so that it was difficult for us to see anything and for others + to get past. The shops were from four to eight feet square, and the stock + was partially displayed in a little show-case a foot square and the same + in height, and partially kept in a safe in a rear corner. Generally when + we examined the articles in the case, the merchant, who was squatted near + it, opened his safe and took out something from it. The diminutive extent + of the shop enabled him to reach safe, show-case, and everything else, + without leaving the place where he was seated. In most cases, when he was + obliged to move about, he did it without rising. He hopped along very much + as a tame seal moves about in a menagerie. + </p> + <p> + The selection of jewelry is not large. It consists of ear-drops, brooches + and bracelets of fine filigree work, that nearly always includes a + crescent, with a few stars of gold or little drops of real or imitation + turquoise. Some of the sets are so arranged, that the necklace and brooch + form one piece, that can be taken apart so that the necklace will form a + pair of bracelets and leave the brooch to be worn separately. Some are of + gold, some of silver, and some of silver gilded, and the sets are + generally quite cheap in comparison with the prices of jewelry in America + and England. + </p> + <p> + You must bargain a great deal, and if you pay anything like the price + asked at first, you are sure to be cheated. Never offer more than half + what they ask, and you will do better not to offer more than a third to + start with; the merchant will decline at first; then he will fall slowly, + and after a time he will be about <span class="pagenum">482</span><a + name="link482" id="link482"></a>half way between your first offer and his. + You can then come up a little, and if your offer is at all reasonable, he + will close with, you, though frequently not till after you have walked + away. + </p> + <p> + To show what can be done by judicious bargaining, let me cite an instance. + </p> + <p> + One of our party admired a pair of ear-drops, and asked the price. + </p> + <p> + “Twenty francs,” was the reply. + </p> + <p> + Buyer declined to be a buyer at that figure, but ventured to offer five + francs. The merchant put the jewelry into his box and shook his head. Then + our party prepared to leave, and the merchant fell to fifteen francs. + Buyer rose to six francs, and after a great deal of haggling, they met at + seven francs and a half. In another instance, a trade was made at ten + francs for something for which thirty francs had been demanded, and + frequently half, or more than half the first price, was taken off to make + a trade. An Oriental merchant expects you to bargain for his goods, and is + quite surprised if you accept his offer at starting; and if you do it, you + can be certain that you have deceived, yourself. + </p> + <p> + In many of the shops the makers of jewelry were at work; of course we were + interested in seeing them. The man sat or squatted on the floor, in front + of a small anvil; behind him was a little furnace, with a charcoal fire, + which was kept alive by a bellows, worked by a boy or by the foot of the + man. The bellows was in keeping with the rest of the equipment of the + place—sometimes it was a bag of goatskin, and sometimes it had the + shape, and was about the size of a Chinese lantern. The tools consisted of + hammers and pinchers, and the men showed great dexterity in working them. + Gold and silver are made to take curious shapes in the hands of these + fabricants, and some of their performances appeared akin to magic. They + had little turning lathes in some of the shops, and occasionally a man + would hold with his toe the article which he was endeavoring to put into + shape the size of a small egg; there is no saucer, but in its place there + is a little socket of the general shape of a flower vase, and into this + the cup fits very neatly. They must wear out, or become lost, at a + remarkably rapid rate to judge by the quantities that were offered for + sale. + </p> + <p> + The jewelry bazaar has many windings, and, somewhat to our surprise, we + came out after many crooks and-turns by a passage-way, only a few feet + from where we had entered. + </p> + <p> + Brass pans and pots for cooking purposes are in demand, and so are plates, + on which to serve up sweetmeats. In some of the <span class="pagenum">483</span><a + name="link483" id="link483"></a>Not far away from the jewelers is the + bazaar of the tinsmiths and workers in brass. Their shops are small, like + all shops in the Orient, and their furnaces were much on the same style as + those of the workers in gold and silver. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0200" id="linkimage-0200"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0498.jpg" alt="0498 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0498.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + They were hammering brass and tin into a variety of shapes, the most + common article being the pots for making coffee, and the little stands + that hold the cups. They bring coffee to you in the Orient in a cup about + <span class="pagenum">484</span><a name="link484" id="link484"></a>shops + they tried to sell us some very ancient plates of Saracenic manufacture, + and the rapidity with which they reduced their figures, led me to suspect + that the articles were skilful imitations, rather than genuine. The brass + and tin bazaars are quite extensive, and the trade in these articles is + evidently large. + </p> + <p> + Constantly, on our way, we were beset by men, who wanted to guide us and + act as intermediaries in trade. These fellows hang around the bazaars and + make a living in two ways; they get a fee from the stranger and a + commission from the merchant, and the commission is generally the most + important of the two. It makes little difference whether you take them as + interpreters, or hire a dragoman from the hotel; both will have a + commission, and sometimes the dragoman is worse than the regular + frequenter of the bazaars. After a little practice, and by picking up the + numerals and a few other words of Arabic, I was able to do my own + shopping, without the intercession of a guide, and found I could get along + much better when alone. Many of the merchants understand the French or + Italian numerals, or what is more frequently, a combination of the two; + with a lingual hash, composed of Arabic, French, and Italian, one can + manage to trade very fairly. + </p> + <p> + You can barter leisurely, or you can go rapidly through many bazaars. You + can go in the <i>Hamzowce</i>, or silk and cloth bazaar, where silks, + cloths, and similar goods are sold, mostly of European manufacture; but as + the dealers are all Christians and scoundrels, and the articles they sell + are familiar to us, the place is not particularly interesting. + </p> + <p> + You can go into the <i>Terbeeah</i>, or perfume bazaar; and it is here + that you buy, or think you buy, the famous “otto of rose.” + </p> + <p> + I spent the whole of one morning, bargaining for some of it, and at last + bought half a dozen bottles, only to be told when I reached the hotel, + that I had been cheated in the price. There is a wonderful odor of sandal + wood and otto of rose, and a dozen other things in this bazaar, and the + rows of bottles and jars behind the turbaned and squatting dealers, form a + picture that: is by no means unpleasant. Strips of gilded paper are hung + in front of these bazaars, as a sign of the articles sold within. I was + unable to ascertain the meaning of them, and concluded <span + class="pagenum">485</span><a name="link485" id="link485"></a>that they + were arbitrary in their character, like the striped poles that we place in + front of a barber’s shop. Here, as everywhere else, you must haggle + a good deal about the price, and keep a sharp eye, to see that you get the + article you have bought. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0201" id="linkimage-0201"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0500.jpg" alt="0500 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0500.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + There are different localities for different goods. In one bazaar you find + cotton and silk stuffs, and in another they have garments made of the same + material. In one there are shoes and slippers, in another saddles, and in + another flags and tents. Here you find silk and gold cord and lace, and + there you can discover stores of precious stones. Here are sugar, almonds, + and dried fruit, and there are tobacco and coffee. Here is the market for + guns, swords, and arms of various kinds, and there is the market for fowls + and vegetables. In the arms bazaar you may <span class="pagenum">486</span><a + name="link486" id="link486"></a>find a wilderness of old weapons, and not + unlikely you may purchase a sword that flashed in the days of + Haroun-al-Rasheed, and helped to spread the faith of Mohammed through the + sleepy and careless East. + </p> + <p> + Among the dealers in gems, you will find diamonds and turquoises in great + number, and they will be drawn one by one from the pocket of the merchant + and placed in a little box which he holds in his hand. If you like, you + may visit the bazaar where old clothes are sold, and if you have a fancy + for garments that have done duty on Moslem backs, your desires can be met + with the utmost ease. And don’t fail to come to the bazaars on + Mondays and Thursdays, and witness the sale of goods at auction. It is not + like an American auction, where the dealer stands in one place and has the + buyers clustering round him. In this case, the auctioneers go through the + market, carrying the goods and calling out the prices that have been + offered. This mode of selling gives a fine opportunity for fraud, and it + is quite likely that a great deal of it is practised. + </p> + <p> + Though pretty well tired out when through with the bazaars, we took a turn + at the opera house in the evening. I have seen opera and ballet in pretty + nearly every city where they make a point of giving them finely, and + before coming here, I believed I had seen the very best in existence. The + opera house at Cairo is not a large one, but it is quite sufficient for + the wants of the present population of theatre-goers. The seats and boxes + are well arranged, and I purposely went to various localities during’ + the performance, and found I could hear about equally well everywhere. + There is a strong company, especially rich in tenor* and soprano voices It + was here that I heard the opera peculiar to Cairo, under the name of Aida. + Aida was written by Verdi, to the Khedive’s special orders; the + scene is laid in Egypt, during the period of the greatest power of the + Pharaohs, and the special locations are at Memphis and Thebes. The piece + was literally put on the stage without regard to expense; the costumes and + scenery were made with the utmost care and attention to details, and in + every respect they conform to the period represented. Thus, in the + scenery, the temples and the services in them are restored, the actors are + dressed as were the ancient <span class="pagenum">487</span><a + name="link487" id="link487"></a>Egyptians, and the dialogue is made to + conform to the manners and customs of the time. As you sit in the + parquette, or in a comfortable box, you are carried back four thousand + years to the days when Isis and Osiris were the divinities of the land. + </p> + <p> + Careful studies were made of the sculptures and paintings on the walls of + the temples and tombs of Upper Egypt, so as to secure fidelity in all the + details. The rehearsals had evidently been numerous and thorough; I never + heard in London or St. Petersburg, Paris or Vienna, Milan or Naples, an + opera better rendered, while I have heard a great many whose rendition was + far behind it in point of excellence. Aida is popular with the resident + opera goers, and if a stranger wishes to see a Cairene audience at its + very best, he should attend one of the representations of this opera. The + boxes and parquette will be well filled, and he may possibly get a view of + the solid form and intelligent face of the Khedive. Opposite the + vice-regal box there are several boxes reserved for the ladies of the + harem; there is a screen of wire-gauze in front of them, so that the fair + occupants can see, without being seen. + </p> + <p> + There is a ballet called the “Prodigal Son,” with the scene + laid in Egypt and with the costumes of the Pharaonic days. It rivals Aida + in magnificence, and is generally sure of a good audience or rather <i>vidience</i> + as, following the Oriental and European custom, it is all in pantomime, + with never a spoken word. + </p> + <p> + The ballet troupe is quite large, and the action of the piece goes on + incessantly for about an hour and a quarter. The costumes and scenery are + appropriate,—the former scanty, as with the ballet everywhere, and + the latter rich and typical of the place and time represented. The cost of + maintaining this troupe must be great, and evidently the ladies composing + it are well paid, as they drive daily in fine carriages on the Shoobra + road, and dress like countesses, who have fortunes in their own right. + </p> + <p> + There is a small theatre opposite the opera house, where they give French + comedy and light operas, three or four times a week, and give them very + well. The opera and ballet are very popular with the ladies of the Khedive’s + harem; they prefer the music and dancing of the Occident to that of the + Orient, just as they prefer the fashions of Paris to those of Bagdad and + Khiva. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">488</span><a name="link488" id="link488"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0202" id="linkimage-0202"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0503.jpg" alt="0503 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0503.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0039" id="link2HCH0039"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIX—ADVENTURES WITH A DONKEY.—A DAY AT THE RACES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A “Syce” what is he?—A Man with a Queer Dress and + Large Calves—A Gorgeous Turnout—An Escort of Eunuchs—Veiled + Beauties—A Flirtation and its Consequences—The Tale of a + Dropped Handkerchief—The Donkey as a National Beast—A Tricky + Brute and an Agile Driver—An Upset in the Mud—Astonishing the + Natives—A Specimen of Arabic Wit—Going to the Races—The + Grand Stand—A Dromedary Race—An Aristocratic Camel—The + Arrival of the Khedive—Starting Up the Dromedaries—Cutting an + Empress.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span> STRANGER is + impressed during his first days in Cairo with the spectacle of runners in + front of carriages to warn people to get out of the way. These fellows + have a picturesque dress and muscular legs, and their duty is to clear the + way, by keeping a few yards in advance and warning people that a carriage + is coming. An appendage of this sort is called a syce, and formerly it was + necessary that he should be a native born Egyptian, but at present a + Nubian may aspire to the position, and it is not unusual to see syces of + the complexion of charcoal in front of elegant carriages. Public fiacres + and ordinary private carriages have each but a single syce, but the + carriages of the Khedive and all official turnouts must have a pair of + syces running side by side. + </p> + <p> + The syce carries a stick, which he holds perpendicularly in the air. As he + goes along he warns people by his shouts; it occasionally happens that a + crowd of common Arabs will be in the way with their donkeys, and if they + do not move at the vocal admonition, the stick is brought into use with no + savor of mildness. <span class="pagenum">489</span><a name="link489" + id="link489"></a>The most gorgeous turnouts in Cairo were, of course, + those belonging to the reigning family, and used on state occasions. The + Khedive ordinarily rides with very little display; he has a two-horse + carriage, open or closed according to the weather or other circumstances, + two syces in front and two outriders or household guards behind him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0203" id="linkimage-0203"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0504.jpg" alt="0504 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0504.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The carriages of the harem are quite as gorgeous as his, and they have the + additional escort of one or two eunuchs, sometimes on horseback, and at + others seated on the box with the driver. Sometimes the blinds are drawn, + and again they are open, but in either case the face of the fair occupant + cannot be seen, as it is invariably covered with a veil. + </p> + <p> + The eyes only are visible and they are generally pretty, I think I may say + invariably so, and have that soft, melting lan<span class="pagenum">490</span><a + name="link490" id="link490"></a>guor for which the Orient is famous. + Concealment has its advantages here as elsewhere; what we can see is + rarely as beautiful as what we do not see. The unattainable is always of + more value than what is within our reach. Possibly all the women of the + harem are not beautiful, but I had the word of a lady who has been in the + sacred enclosure, that there are faces there whose beauty is rarely + equalled in the Occident, and there was one that roused my informant to a + pitch of enthusiasm more appropriate for a young and ardent man. + </p> + <p> + Some of these carriages of the harem have been associated with scandals of + a mediocre character. I was told of one whose occupant used to drop her + veil to a dashing young officer when promenading on the Shoobra Road, and + on one occasion let fall an embroidered and perfumed handkerchief, which + he picked up and retained. + </p> + <p> + As the story goes, he was imprudent enough to speak of the adventure and + to show the trophy, and one day he was told his presence was no longer + needed in the Egyptian army, but that his resignation would be accepted. + How much truth there is in the story I cannot say, I am sure; I was not + present; never saw officer or handkerchief to my knowledge, and neither + have I ever seen the veiled beauty. But who among us would have neglected + to peep at her face if he had the opportunity? + </p> + <p> + The beast par excellence of Egypt is the donkey; he ought to have a place + on the national coat-of-arms, as much so as the llama has on that of Peru. + The horses of Egypt are magnificent, some of pure Arabian, and some of a + cross between English and Arabian stock, and are famous for their speed + and beauty. But they are a luxury that not everybody can afford, as their + support requires a constant outlay, not to speak of the first cost of the + property. But the donkey is universal, and everybody can have one, unless + he is the poorest of the poor. + </p> + <p> + At every hotel door there are groups of them ready saddled at all hours of + the day, and you can hire them cheaply. If you can make a bargain in + advance you can hire a donkey at three or four francs a day, inclusive of + the boy, to drive him, though the latter generally looks for backsheesh in + addition to the price of the beast and saddle. I have hired donkeys + frequently for half + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">491</span><a name="link491" id="link491"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0204" id="linkimage-0204"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0506.jpg" alt="0506 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0506.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">493</span><a name="link493" id="link493"></a>a franc + an hour, though the hotel keepers tell you that a franc an hour is the + proper fare. + </p> + <p> + Most of the excursions in and around Cairo must be made on these animals, + and even in many places where you can take a carriage the donkey is + preferable. You can ride in the narrow lanes and among the bazaars, or you + can go into the open country at a gallop, as though pursued by a wolf, or + a guilty conscience. No matter how fast you go, the boy will keep up with + you, and he never seems to be out of breath. If you want to go slowly he + does not understand you, and will continue to cluck and strike the beast + at the very moment you are expostulating with him. + </p> + <p> + One day I took a donkey for an afternoon ride to old Cairo, and explained + to the boy that I was in no hurry, and wished to go gently. “I + understand,” he said, and as we started he hit the donkey a violent + blow, that sent him off on a gallop. + </p> + <p> + Two or three times I expostulated, and finally I threatened to thrash him + with my cane if he struck the donkey again without orders. + </p> + <p> + “I understand,” he said, “no strike donkey no more,” + and we were off again. + </p> + <p> + Within two minutes he struck the animal. The promised thrashing was + administered, and even that was not enough to make the boy mindful of what + I wanted, and several times he involuntarily hurried the animal ahead. It + was the force of habit, which to him was perfectly uncontrollable. + </p> + <p> + The donkey is a patient beast; he never kicks or runs away, never takes + fright, never asks for backsheesh, and he can bear a burden that seems out + of all proportion to his size. He does not get drunk or stay away from + home by circumstances which he cannot control, and he can be boarded and + lodged at a very cheap rate. His food consists of beans and chopped straw, + with an occasional <i>bonne bouche</i> of fresh cut grass, of which you + see great loads coming daily into the city on the backs of camels and + donkeys. + </p> + <p> + The pace of the donkey is a walk, an amble, or a gallop according to + circumstances, and at whatever speed he is going he is generally as easy + as a cradle. The natives ride without stirrups, owing to the donkey’s + tendency to stumble; he does not fall very <span class="pagenum">494</span><a + name="link494" id="link494"></a>often, but you never know when he will go + down in a heap under you, and he is most likely to do this when at full + speed, the very time when you least relish this sort of business. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0205" id="linkimage-0205"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0509.jpg" alt="0509 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0509.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + When I reached Cairo I was not up to the dodge of riding without my feet + in the stirrups, but I soon concluded that I had better learn. One + afternoon I had a donkey that was very good, from a progressive point of + view. There was a party of us, and we went at a gallop, and my beast was + ahead most of the time. Suddenly he went down, very much as a wet towel + falls on the floor when you drop it from your hand, and I went down like + another wet towel when it is not dropped but flung into a corner. + </p> + <p> + Had my feet been out of the stirrups they would have touched the ground as + I fell, and I should have been standing erect and dignified, and could + have contemplated my donkey in a heap as Xerxes contemplated the remains + of his fleet at Salamis. But I was comfortably fixed in the stirrups, and + so I went forward and turned about eleven-sixteenths of a somersault + before I settled into a sprawling position on and in the sand, to the + great delight of the multitude who are never happier than when seeing a + <span class="pagenum">495</span><a name="link495" id="link495"></a>stranger + make an ass of himself. I got up and found myself uninjured, though I + presented the appearance of having been used as a street sweeping machine. + </p> + <p> + You may think this is drawing the donkey business to a considerable + length, but you wouldn’t think so if you knew what a prominent place + the animal has in the life and locomotion of modern Egypt. But through + fear of wearying you, I will stop now; only let me tell you of the wit of + one of the drivers. + </p> + <p> + One day I hired a donkey for a franc to make a journey for which the + driver demanded three francs at the outset. When the bargain was concluded + we started, but the beast was very slow, and I said to the driver that his + steed was not good. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, donkey good,” was his reply. “Give donkey three + francs, he good donkey; he no good for one franc.” + </p> + <p> + Soon after my arrival we had the pleasure of attending the horse races and + noticing some of the peculiarities of the country. + </p> + <p> + The track for the Cairo races is two or three miles out of the city, on a + large plain to the right of the Abooseer Road. + </p> + <p> + We left our donkeys in charge of their drivers, and bought tickets for the + Grand Stand. The spectators were a mixed lot of natives and Europeans, + nearly all the former being in European dress, with the exception of the + fez or red cap, which covers the head at all times, whether in doors or + out. A good many eunuchs were there and mingled freely with the crowd in + and around the stand. They were nearly all tall—some of them + unusually long in the legs—were clad <i>a la European</i>, and were + rather gorgeous in the matter of watch chain. One who stood near me had a + double length vest chain, a fob chain, and a chain around his neck. If + there had been any other way of wearing a chain I presume he would have + adopted that also. + </p> + <p> + Many of these neutral gentlemen were active in the discussion of the + races; some of them made considerable wagers, and one of them, taller and + rather older than the rest, appeared to exercise considerable authority + over the jockeys, and superintended their mounting and weighing. The + jockeys were of all colors and nationalities; there were English, French, + and Italian jockeys; and there were Arab, Egyptian, and Nubian jockeys. + There was comparatively little betting over the result, and quite <span + class="pagenum">496</span><a name="link496" id="link496"></a>an absence of + the yelling and hooting heard at all races in England and at some in + America. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0206" id="linkimage-0206"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0511.jpg" alt="0511 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0511.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Just before the commencement of the races, a dozen carriages came upon the + ground, bringing the ladies of the harem. A separate space was assigned to + them; in this space the carriages were driven and a rope was drawn around, + and guards were stationed to keep out intruders. + </p> + <p> + The ladies remained all the time in their carriages, and as they were + closely veiled and the blinds of the carriages were partially closed, + nobody got a peep at them. It is quite an innovation for them to come to + the races at all; the seclusion of the women of the Orient is so great + that a man would usually be as likely to think of taking his dog to see an + entertainment as of taking his wives, or any one of them. I believe the + day is not <span class="pagenum">497</span><a name="link497" id="link497"></a>far + distant when the ladies of Egypt will discard the veil and go with + uncovered faces like their Occidental sisters. The Khedive has done much + in the way of assimilating his people with those of Europe, and he will do + more as time goes on. + </p> + <p> + On the second day the affair opened with a race of dromedaries. Four of + these animals were entered, but only three put in an appearance. They were + not beautiful beasts; I don’t believe one of them, in his wildest + moments, ever imagines that he is handsome, and he ought not to do so if + he sets himself down to tame deliberation. The dromedary is a sort of fine + edition of the camel; he bears the same relation to a camel that a setter + or terrier bears to that “yaller” dog of America. He kneels to + be | mounted, and he starts off at a swinging pace, arching his neck + rather gracefully, and not appearing to be in a hurry. + </p> + <p> + The saddle for racing is a sort of hollow dish, in which the rider sits. + He does not straddle the beast as we would mount a horse, but he sits in + this trough, or dish, and crosses his legs in front of him. His place is + not an uncomfortable one, except that it is pretty high in the air and a + fall from it would be no joke. Since I saw that race I have done some + camel travelling, and have my opinions, but of that I will speak by and + by. + </p> + <p> + These three dromedaries started off very well at the word of command, and + went around the track at the rate of twelve miles an hour, though they did + not appear to be doing half as much. + </p> + <p> + The dromedary race did not begin until after the arrival of the Khedive, + who came in a carriage with his sons and some of his ministers, and was + accompanied by a dozen or so of riders, and there was a good deal of + bowing and hat lifting, but there were no cheers. Cheering after the + Western plan does not seem to be in vogue in Egypt, and certainly it would + not take well with the dignified demeanor of the Orient. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive acknowledged the compliment by a bow to the right and the left + as he entered the grounds, and the carriage moved rapidly to the stand set + apart for him and his friends. On the stand he mingled unceremoniously + with the rest of the party. Among them there was one lady, the Duchess of + Parma, to whom he was courteously polite. Quite a contrast, this, I + thought to the conduct of the Sultan, whom I saw in 1867, at Paris, rudely + <span class="pagenum">498</span><a name="link498" id="link498"></a>walk + past the Empress without offering his arm or even speaking to her. She was + a woman and an Infidel Christian; no one could expect the commander of the + Faithful to be polite to her. + </p> + <p> + There are different ways of regarding the subject from our standpoint; we + think that Mohammedanism degrades woman below her proper level, by + secluding her and by treating her not as a companion of man, but as a + thing for his amusement, or for the perpetuation of the human race, as the + soil is made to perpetuate the fruits of the earth. And the Mohammedan + looking at us thinks that we raise women above their proper level and + allow them too much part in our affairs. But the Western theory is yearly + gaining more adherents, and the position of woman is yearly becoming more + exalted. And the enlightened ruler of Egypt is the first Mohammedan Prince + or King who has ventured to show in public a feeling of respect toward the + gentler and prettier half of humanity. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0207" id="linkimage-0207"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5513.jpg" alt="5513 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5513.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">499</span><a name="link499" id="link499"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0208" id="linkimage-0208"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0514.jpg" alt="0514 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0514.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0040" id="link2HCH0040"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XL—THE PASHA AND THE PRIESTS.—EGYPTIAN LANGUAGE—SCHOOLS + AND RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Egypt and her relations with Turkey—The Army and Navy—Egyptian + history boiled down—The reigning family—Wonderful Relics—Mohammed + Ali as a ruler—The Pasha and the priests—Ordering a Wedding—Married + on short notice—Gratifying the Empress Eugenie—An Arab + school-room—A college with nine thousand students—A + jaw-breaking language—How to indite an epistle in Arabic—The + caravan to Mecca—Going on a pilgrimage—A horrible ceremony—Trampling + on dervishes—The “Bride of the Nile”—Extraordinary + customs.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">E</span>GYPT is + sufficiently independent to have a government of her own, and to maintain + a standing army. She pays an annual tribute to Turkey of half a million + pounds sterling, but the amount varies somewhat, according to + circumstances. In return for this tribute she is allowed to do pretty much + as she pleases in the way of contracting loans and making internal + improvements. The army is restricted to fifteen thousand men, but by means + of an arrangement for short terms of service it is practically four or + five times as large. The organization of the army is very much on the + European model, and the troops are drilled according to the modern systems + of tactics. + </p> + <p> + The artillery arm of the service has been made as effective as possible, + and the batteries consist of breech-loading cannon, from Krupp’s + manufactory in Germany. The navy is not large, but the ships that compose + it are of the most approved construction and their armament is of steel + breech-loaders, like the land batteries. <span class="pagenum">500</span><a + name="link500" id="link500"></a>The infantry are equipped with improved + rifles, and the cavalry has a revolving carbine, with a removable stock, + so that the weapons may be changed at will into a pistol or a rifle. In + the last few years, the government has availed itself of the services of + many foreign officers, the most of them from America. These are scattered + among all branches of the service, the most of them being in the corps of + engineers. Under their management the country is being carefully surveyed, + and an elaborate map is in preparation. + </p> + <p> + Egypt has had a great many rulers. The dynasties of Kings of ancient Egypt + were no less than thirty-four in number, and then came the Romans about + the beginning of the Christian Era. They reigned for a few hundred years, + then the country was conquered by the Arabs, and later on, it fell into + the hands of the Turks. Near the end of the last century, it was invaded + by the French, they remained about three years only, when they were + expelled by the English, and soon after their arrival the renowned + Mohammed Ali was made the ruling pasha. + </p> + <p> + He reigned from 1806 to 1848, when he became imbecile, and was succeeded + by his son Ibrahim Pasha, who died after a reign of two months. Ibrahim + was followed by his nephew Abbas Pasha who reigned from 1848 to 1854, and + was succeeded by the fourth son of Mohammed Ali, under the name of Said + Pasha. In 1863 Said was succeeded by the present ruler Ismail Pasha, + second son of Ibrahim Pasha, the eldest having been drowned in the Nile in + 1856. + </p> + <p> + There you have Egyptian history boiled down into a small space. I have not + thought any reader would care to know the names of all the kings of Egypt + from Menes, five thousand years before Christ, to Ismail nearly two + thousand years after Christ. + </p> + <p> + Some were jolly old fellows, who lived as luxuriously as they knew how, + though I dare say, none of them ever tasted raw oysters on the shell, or + prairie chicken broiled and on toast. They used to dress rather + elaborately, and they built some magnificent temples and tombs, which + still remain to be wondered at by modern mortals. + </p> + <p> + No construction of the present day can begin to compare with them in + grandeur, but of this I shall have more to say by and by. <span + class="pagenum">501</span><a name="link501" id="link501"></a>The kings + were buried with great care, but their tombs have been plundered in modern + times, so that very little of the royal relics can be found. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally they stumble on something and it is at once put into the + museum at Cairo. Through the kindness of the director of this museum I was + one day allowed to hold in my hand the heart of one of the most famous of + the warrior kings of the XIXth Dynasty. It wasn’t much of a heart, a + dried and bandaged affair of little consequence, but it was no common + occurrence to grasp it, and remember that it once beat beneath the breast + of a great warrior, who lived and loved, and ruled and died, three + thousand years ago. + </p> + <p> + Nearly all the modern greatness of Egypt is due to her present ruler. + Mohammed Ali, was a man of great ability, and under his rule the country + received an impetus in the right direction. He founded schools, dug + canals, and did many things for the prosperity of the country, and when he + had determined to act in a certain direction, he didn’t allow + himself to be thwarted. At one time he had decided to widen the Mooskee, + now the principal street of the old part of Cairo, and was about to begin + work when the Moslem priests interfered and declared they would bring + anathemas upon him if the design was not relinquished. + </p> + <p> + He ordered the contumacious fellows arrested, and threatened to decapitate + them unless they behaved themselves, They were in no hurry to be ushered + into the presence of Mohammed the Prophet, and so they yielded to Mohammed + the Ruler. + </p> + <p> + This recalls the story of Peter the Great, when he founded St. Petersburg + and compelled the priests to bring the bones of one of the saints from + their resting place at Vladimir. The priests did not like the new + location, and one day they took the bones and started off for Vladimir, + declaring that the ghost of the departed had told them to do so. Peter + sent after them, with the threat of making ghosts of all of them, unless + they returned, and they did return, bones and all. There is nothing like + having a will of your own, and the power to use it. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive is like his grandfather in many things, and is not easily + thwarted when he has made up his mind to anything. He is a liberal ruler, + and believes in the enterprise and progress of <span class="pagenum">502</span><a + name="link502" id="link502"></a>the Occident, rather than in the slow + coach system of the Orient. Though a Mohammedan he is no bigot, as is + shown by the perfect freedom accorded to all religions, and by his + personal gift of land to any Christian society that wishes to build a + church. + </p> + <p> + He has a difficult position to occupy, as he is a Mohammedan and ruler of + Mohammedans; when he comes in contact with any of the prerogatives of the + religion, he is obliged to devise a course that shall keep the religion + inviolate. For example he wishes to abolish slavery and to destroy the + slave trade, but here he comes in contact with the Koran, which permits + the ownership of human property. + </p> + <p> + He sends an army into the regions of the Upper Nile, and destroys the + business of kidnapping and the importation of slaves; he cannot liberate + the slaves now held in Egypt, but he orders that when a slave runs away + the machinery of the law shall not be used for his recapture. Any slave in + Cairo may run away, and be safe from arrest; owners and slaves are aware + of this state of things, and consequently the owners treat their slaves so + well that they are not inclined to run away. I was told that slaves were + generally better treated than free laborers. This state of affairs was not + unknown in some parts of our own border states previous to our civil war. + </p> + <p> + As an illustration of the power of the Khedive over his subjects, I will + mention an incident which was narrated to me. + </p> + <p> + When the Empress Eugenie was in Egypt she expressed a desire to witness an + Egyptian wedding. The Khedive summoned an officer of his staff, and told + him to be ready to be married the next day. + </p> + <p> + One of the ladies attached to the harem was designated as the bride, and + the wedding came off in grand style, to the delight of the Empress and of + all concerned. His Highness paid the bills and set up the couple in good + style, including the present of a house, where the Empress paid them a + congratulatory visit. + </p> + <p> + An Arab school is a curiosity. The pupils study their lessons aloud, and + make the place about as noisy as a political meeting, and how they can + learn, any thing is a surprise to a person from the Occident, where + silence is considered desirable in a school-room. + </p> + <p> + I looked repeatedly into these schools, and generally + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">503</span><a name="link503" id="link503"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0209" id="linkimage-0209"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0518.jpg" alt="0518 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0518.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">505</span><a name="link505" id="link505"></a>knew + where they were, at least half a minute before I reached their doors. The + master squats on the floor at one side of the room, or stands among some + of his pupils who are seated in rows or promiscuously through the rest of + the apartment. Their lessons are given to them upon slates or large cards, + and they sit rocking back and forth and studying aloud. + </p> + <p> + When they have committed a lesson, they go to the teacher and recite it, + and if found perfect they receive another. The instruction consists of + reading and writing, the latter generally including passages from the + Koran. + </p> + <p> + Down to the time of Mohammed Ali, the schools of Egypt were not based upon + any system; anybody who wished to to open a school could do so, and + children were sent there and received on payment of a small fee. Under + that ruler a public school system was established; it declined somewhat + under his immediate successor, but has been revived and improved, to some + extent, by the Khedive. + </p> + <p> + The schools are divided into civil and military, and the civil schools are + subdivided into primary, secondary, and special. + </p> + <p> + In the primary schools, the pupils receive instruction in reading, + writing, and arithmetic, and in most of them some foreign language, + generally French, is taught. When a certain proficiency is reached, the + pupils enter the secondary schools, where they are instructed in Arabic, + and may also study Turkish, French, and English. The Arabic course + includes history, pure mathematics, geography, and drawing, and sometimes + algebra and <i>belles-lettres</i>. + </p> + <p> + From these schools a pupil may be passed by examination into one of the + special schools, which are five in number, as follows: + </p> + <p> + Land Surveying and Commercial School; Law School; Polytechnic School; <i>Arts + et Metiers</i> School; and the Medical School. + </p> + <p> + The time required for study and graduation in these schools varies from + two to four years each. The Medical School has a school of midwifery for + women, and is the only institution for feminine education in Egypt. The + military schools include every branch of military education; they are on + the European model, and many of the professors are Europeans. <span + class="pagenum">506</span><a name="link506" id="link506"></a>Every + Christian community in Cairo has its own schools, and some of them are + quite large. There is an American mission school, and also an English one, + and there are French, Greek, Armenian, and Coptic schools, so that the + Christians are not likely to grow up in ignorance. Many of the mosques + have free schools, and <i>medresse</i>, or colleges, attached to them. + </p> + <p> + The <i>El Azhar</i> mosque is the great college of Cairo, and also the + principal university of the East. There are small porticoes, divided into + apartments, for the use of natives from different parts of Egypt and the + Orient, each province or country having a room to itself. The professors + receive no salaries, but live upon presents from the pupils, and by + copying books or performing other literary work. There are nine thousand + students, and more than three hundred professors attached to this + university! Nearly all the sciences taught in all the colleges of the + globe have a place here. + </p> + <p> + Arabic is not an easy language to acquire to perfection, but I am told + that one can learn to talk it fairly in about twice the time that it would + take for learning a European language. In the short time that I was in + Cairo I picked up a smattering, as I make it a rule to do in all countries + where I expect to stay more than a month. + </p> + <p> + You will be astonished to find how far you can get along with a few words, + if you only set about it in earnest. My Arabic was much like the English + of some of the donkey drivers; there were no prepositions and conjunctions + in it, and the construction of the verbs placed all the rules of grammar + at defiance. + </p> + <p> + In fact, you can get along without many verbs when you are put to it. All + you want is the name of the thing you are after, and the words for “how + much.” Then you must have the numerals, and thus armed and equipped, + you may set out on a shopping excursion with a brave heart, and a + consciousness that every shop-keeper you deal with will cheat you if + possible. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs begin to read a book where we would finish it, and they + generally read from right to left, though not always. When they write they + hold the paper in the left hand, and grasp a small stick in the right. + This stick is sharpened to a point, like a pencil, and dipped in the ink, + and with it the letters are formed with considerable rapidity. <span + class="pagenum">507</span><a name="link507" id="link507"></a>As in some of + the cities of Europe, there are men whose profession it is to write + letters for those unable to write, and you see these men squatted on the + sidewalk, with paper, pen, ink and sand before them, ready for a customer. + They have a peculiar kind of ink-stand in Cairo; it is made of brass, and + has a long handle running back nearly a foot. This handle is hollow, and + holds the pens, and it serves the purpose of sustaining the ink-stand in + the girdle. The ink is generally a little thicker than ours, but they can + write with European ink without trouble. You see these ink-stands very + often in the girdles of merchants and accountants in the bazaars, and it + is not unusual to see a man standing or squatting on the sidewalk, and + engaged in the production of a letter. And the oddest thing of the whole + business is to see him holding the paper in his hand; if you ask an Arab + to sit at your desk to write a letter, the chances are fifty to one that + he will pick up the paper instead of placing it on the flat surface, as is + our invariable custom. In the government offices they have learned to + write with the paper flat on the desk, but they do not take to it kindly. + </p> + <p> + I have seen a high official sit at his desk and pick up a document in + order to affix his signature, and he continued to hold the paper until he + had signed it and appended his seal. The seal is a very necessary part of + the business; it is not put on with wax, but is stamped with ink. + </p> + <p> + Every year a caravan leaves Cairo for Mecca, and is accompanied by + pilgrims to the birth-place of Mohammed. The march is through the desert, + and consumes from sixty to eighty days, sometimes exceeding the latter + number. The annual pilgrimage from all parts of the Mohammedan world is + about seventy thousand, the number going by land is steadily decreasing, + for the reason that one can now go by steamer to Djeddah, on the Red Sea, + and from thence two or three days on foot will bring him to the Holy City. + Steamers run regularly from Suez to Djeddah, and in the season of + pilgrimage there are extra boats that carry deck passengers at a very low + fare. + </p> + <p> + The departure of the annual caravan from Cairo is a scene of great pomp. A + camel is designated to carry the Mahmal, or sacred canopy; it was + originally designed to contain such of the <span class="pagenum">508</span><a + name="link508" id="link508"></a>wives of the Caliphs as wished to make the + journey, but latterly it contains nothing, and has become simply a rich + decoration, which ultimately finds a place in one of the mosques. Another + camel carries the <i>Kiswe Ji en nebbe</i>, a quantity of rich silk, + covered with sentences from the Koran, embroidered in letters of gold. + </p> + <p> + It is annually supplied from Cairo for lining the temple at Mecca; the old + one is returned and cut into small bits for distribution among those of + the faithful who are unable to make the pilgrimage. + </p> + <p> + The caravan starts from the Citadel, and there is generally a large crowd + in attendance, to see it off. It has always been the custom for the + reigning Viceroy or Caliph to witness the departure of the caravan, but + for two years the Khedive has not been present in person. He has sent a + deputy, in the shape of his son; the Viceroy or his deputy presents a + purse of gold to the rider of the camel to pay the expenses of the + journey, and, formerly, this purse was noted for its size and weight. It + has grown small by degrees, and beautifully less, and the probability is + that before many years, the presentation will cease altogether. The + Khedive shows a most emphatic desire to put an end to the useless and + expensive mummeries that have been handed down to him from the early days + of Mohammedanism. + </p> + <p> + The return of the pilgrims is quite an event in Cairo, but not so great as + the departure, for the reason that the caravan straggles a great deal, and + the individual members are inclined to hurry to their homes with as little + delay as possible. Formerly there was a suspension of labor and a grand + festival, but at present there is little more than a procession of the + returning pilgrims. + </p> + <p> + There is a much more disagreeable occurrence on the birthday of Mohammed, + when the ceremony of the <i>doseh</i> is performed. + </p> + <p> + The word in Arabic means “treading,” and is descriptive enough + as far as it goes. The return of the pilgrims from Mecca is arranged so + that it falls near the anniversary of the <i>Moolid en-Nebbe</i>, or + birthday of the Prophet. There are many festivities on this day which + correspond to our Christmas; services are held in all the mosques, and + those who can afford a good dinner and <span class="pagenum">509</span><a + name="link509" id="link509"></a>suit of clothes are sure to have them. + There are ceremonies not only in the mosques, but on the streets. + Dervishes go about with pins sticking through their flesh, or bearing + heavy burdens, and show no signs of pain or fatigue. + </p> + <p> + Formerly there were dervishes who went about with coils of live serpents + around them, and occasionally they amused the crowd by eating one of the + snakes. This pleasant practice has been discontinued, partly for the + reason that many over-sensitive people objected to it, and partly because + the dervish stomach could not easily digest this irregular food. A man may + eat a live snake, but I doubt if he is likely to “hanker after it” + any more than the countryman in the “crow” story. + </p> + <p> + The public squares are filled with booths, swings, and other means of + amusement, and there is always a dense crowd around them. Reciters of + romance are numerous, and any person familiar with the language of the + country may hear the tales of the Arabian Nights, or similar works of + fiction, chanted in slow, measured accents, by men who have carefully + committed them to memory. Formerly there were many <i>Ghawasee</i>, or + dancing girls; their employments were not entirely confined to dancing, + and their appearance in public has been forbidden by the authorities. + There are frequent processions of dervishes, and at night the streets are + hung with lanterns and otherwise made more gay than usual. + </p> + <p> + The ceremony of the <i>Doseh</i> takes place just after the noon prayers, + and a great crowd is always gathered to witness it. The Sheik of the + Saadeeyah dervishes passes the night and forepart of the day at the Mosque + of Hassaneyn and devotes the time to the repetition of prayers and + invocations which shall fit him for the ceremony. When all is ready he + mounts a horse and sets out, accompanied by a numerous delegation of + Moslems from various parts of the city. His horse is led by two men, and + he proceeds at a walking pace. + </p> + <p> + At the spot selected for the performance some two or three hundred persons + lie down in the street, closely wedged together so that they make a very + fine imitation of a corduroy road. Their heads are all one way and resting + upon their folded arms, and the crowd ranges close against them in a very + compact hedge. Their <span class="pagenum">510</span><a name="link510" + id="link510"></a>backs are upward, and they mutter “Allah!” + </p> + <p> + “Allah!” without intermission while waiting the conclusion of + the ceremony. + </p> + <p> + When the Sheik approaches this novel causeway his horse becomes restive, + and refuses to go on, but he is pulled by the two men who hold the bridle + and urged by those behind so that he does not hesitate a great while. But + evidently he does not like his employment. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0210" id="linkimage-0210"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0525.jpg" alt="0525 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0525.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + He ambles rather hastily over the human pavement, and toward the end he + gives a jump that would break into a gallop were he not restrained by the + man at his bridle. The fellows forming the pavement rise up the instant + the horse passes over them, and join the crowd which presses from behind, + with an irregular shout of “Allah! Allah!” and this is the + ceremony of the <i>dosch</i>. + </p> + <p> + The Moslems insist that no harm comes to any one from the tread of the + horse, as the dervishes are protected by the direct interposition of + Providence. Each person receives at least two treads from the horse’s + feet, and in addition he has the gentle footsteps of the two men leading + the horse. One of these <span class="pagenum">511</span><a name="link511" + id="link511"></a>worthies walks on the heads and the other on the feet of + the prostrate forms, and they endeavor to give everybody a show. They take + short steps so that nobody shall be missed, and between them and the + horse, the corduroy performers ought to be satisfied. Whether from motives + of delicacy or out of regard for the animate soil on which they tread, + these grooms walk barefooted, and carry their shoes in their hand. It is + also worthy of remark that the horse ridden by the Sheik is of medium + size, and wears no shoes, and the Sheik is always a small man. In having a + miracle wrought before the eyes of the people, the Moslem priests are + careful to make the conditions as easy as possible. They might select a + horse of the largest size, have him freshly and sharply shod and ridden by + a Sheik whose weight would entitle him to the Presidency of the Fat Men’s + Association. But they know what they are about, and do nothing of the + sort. + </p> + <p> + I have talked with Moslems and other residents of Cairo about the <i>dosch</i>. + The former insist that the prostrate men are saved by a miracle, while the + latter believe that more or less harm comes every year to the performers, + and is concealed by the rush of the crowd from behind. Any cry of pain + that may be uttered is completely drowned by the shouts of the crowd; the + horse steps on that portion of the body which is very useful in occupying + a chair, and can sometimes be kicked with impunity, and it is possible + that his feet have no lasting impression. + </p> + <p> + At any rate not a shriek is heard, and no one is ever known by the public + to have been injured. The dead and wounded, if any, are dragged away and + kept out of sight, and so great is Eastern stoicism, that not one of those + trampled on will venture to give utterance to his pain, as by so doing he + would lose the protection of Allah; and be denied admission within the + gates of Paradise! + </p> + <p> + When the Nile has reached a certain height during the period of the + inundation, there is a ceremony of cutting the embankment and allowing the + water to spread over the land. This was formerly an affair of great + consequence; its origin is unknown, as the custom existed in the time of + the Pharaohs, and among the earlier dynasties. The place selected is at + the opening of the canal, a short distance from old Cairo, and formerly + nearly half the population turned out to see the performance. <span + class="pagenum">512</span><a name="link512" id="link512"></a>At the + appointed hour the Governor of Cairo, or a deputy of the Pasha, makes his + appearance, accompanied by a gorgeous retinue of officers, and preceded by + a band of music. When all is ready half a dozen men rush forward and open + the embankment with hoes and spades, and instantly the water rushes in and + fills the bed of the canal. The governor then throws a handful of money + into the canal, and this is scrambled for by a crowd of boys, who stand + ready for it. + </p> + <p> + Tradition says that formerly a virgin was thrown into the water and + sacrificed to the river god, but the custom no longer prevails, at least, + in its original form. A pillar of earth is built up just below the + opening, and dressed in white, and this is supposed to represent the Bride + of the Nile. Sometimes a doll is thrown into the water, as a substitute + for the living girl formerly sacrificed; whether the River God is + satisfied with this offering, I am unable to say, but as the fertility of + the Nile Valley is the same from year to year, it is fair to presume that + the sacrifice by proxy does not displease him. + </p> + <p> + There are several other ceremonies at Cairo, but they are steadily + declining in importance as year after year rolls on. The government is + becoming more and more practical, with each succeeding change of seasons, + and as the government goes the people follow. Cairo was once a stronghold + of Islam; to-day it has ceased to be a reliance of the Moslem power, and + probably the end of the century will see it far more Christian than + Mohammedan in character. It has ceased to be a center of fanaticism, and a + Christian may now walk through all its streets without fear of insult on + account of his religion. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">513</span><a name="link513" id="link513"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0211" id="linkimage-0211"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0528.jpg" alt="0528 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0528.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0041" id="link2HCH0041"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLI—THE GREAT PYRAMIDS.—IN THE KINGS’ BURIAL + CHAMBERS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Visit to the Great Pyramids—A Fellah not a Fellow—Sakkiehs + and Shadoofs—A File of Camels and Donkeys—A striking Spectacle—A + horde of Arabs—Troublesome Customers—The Great Pyramid—How + we climbed it—A Giant Stairway—Dimensions Extraordinary—The + lost Arts—Standing on the Summit—The Judge’s Predicament—Arab + Cormorants—What we saw from the top of the Great Pyramid—Wonderful + Contrasts—Performance of an Arabian Acrobat—A race down the + Pyramid Stairs—A perilous Descent—Penetrating the Interior—The + King’s Chamber—A dusty Receptacle of Coffins—The Sphinx—A + mysterious Statue.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">E</span>VERY visitor to + Cairo makes at least one journey to the famous pyramids of Gizeh, and + generally takes an early opportunity to make it. Until within a few years + there was considerable labor and fatigue to the excursion as it was + necessary to ride there on donkeys, and the whole trip required not less + than five hours of saddle exercise. There was also the necessity of + crossing the Nile on a ferry boat, and as there was generally a crowd of + men, boys, camels, and donkeys at the ferry, the journey across had a + reasonable amount of excitement in it. Now you ride to the Pyramids in a + carriage and along a macadamized road, and you cross the Nile over an iron + bridge that is a great improvement upon the ferry. + </p> + <p> + At my first visit we made up a party of twelve and therefore took three + carriages for which we paid twenty francs each carriage, quite a + reasonable price compared with hack fares in America. + </p> + <p> + We started about nine o’clock, after crossing the river found <span + class="pagenum">514</span><a name="link514" id="link514"></a>ourselves + among the fertile fields that produce many of the vegetables consumed in + Cairo. Fellahs were at work in these fields, some of them very scantily + clad, particularly those who manipulated the <i>sakkiehs</i> or water + lifters. A <i>sakkieh</i> is a very primitive machine and consists of a + pole and bucket supported like the old fashioned well-sweep of America. + The term <i>sakkieh</i> is applied to all the apparatus for raising water, + but the proper name for the Egyptian pole and bucket is <i>shadoof</i>. + The <i>shadoof</i> is very ancient, as it is represented on the walls of + the tombs constructed three or four thousand years ago. + </p> + <p> + We met troops of camels and donkeys laden with green provisions for Cairo; + the majority of them carried freshly cut grass for the sustenance of + donkeys, horses, and camels, piled in great loads that half concealed the + animals that bore them. The grass thus cut is sold quite cheaply, and as + many as four or five crops can be taken from the land in the course of the + year. The fertility of the Nile soil exceeds that of any land I have ever + seen elsewhere; the lower Mississippi with all its richness is far behind + it. + </p> + <p> + Although good roads have been provided here burdens are still carried + almost entirely on the backs of animals, very few carts being in use. + Almost the only vehicles visible here are the carriages of tourists going + to or from the Pyramids or visiting one of the Khedive’s palaces. + There is a fine palace on this side of the Nile known as the Gezereh, and + there are two new palaces in course of construction. In spite of the + tightened money market and the general absence of cash, the Khedive + continues to make extensive outlays on palaces and their adornments. He + has several sons, and it is desirable that each shall have a home of his + own. + </p> + <p> + As we drive towards them the Pyramids fill the horizon, or rather they + rise very prominently out of it. When we are yet an hour’s drive + from their base they seem not more than ten minutes away, an optical + delusion, partly attributable to the clear atmosphere and partly to the + great size of the structures themselves. A house two stories in height + stands at the foot of the first pyramid, and by observing what a slight + speck it makes against the great mass you can form an idea of what is + before + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">515</span><a name="link515" id="link515"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0212" id="linkimage-0212"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0530.jpg" alt="0530 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0530.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">517</span><a name="link517" id="link517"></a>you. + Long before we are near the Pyramids our carriage is surrounded by Arabs, + bent on serving us in some way, or at all events in wringing money from + us. They follow the carriage at a run and have no difficulty in keeping up + with us. Most of them run bare-footed and keep their great clumsy shoes in + their hands as the least fatiguing way of carrying the burdens. + </p> + <p> + At the edge of the fertile land the road ascends an elevation and here it + is necessary for us to dismount and walk as the track is covered with sand + that has blown from the desert and makes the ascent very difficult for a + loaded vehicle. The horses have all they can do to take the empty carriage + up the slope and the drivers are obliged to use the whip very freely. + </p> + <p> + We came to a halt on the broad open space below the Great Pyramid, and the + drivers immediately removed and unharnessed their horses, and took out the + poles of the carriages. The Arabs flocked around us to make bargains for + the ascent; there are some thirty-five or forty that stay here to + serve-travellers, and they have a fixed tariff for the ascent and the + journey into the interior You pay two shillings to the sheik of the tribe + for the ascent and two more if you go inside, and for this he furnishes + you with two or more men to assist you. Half a dozen will volunteer to + accompany you but two are quite enough. + </p> + <p> + A friend had told me what to do so I stipulated that only the two men to + serve, me should come near me otherwise I should pay nothing. I required + the sheik to select the two and away we started. A boy carrying a gargolet + of water followed us, and I found him desirable and consented that he + should accompany me. The unusual exertion gives one a dryness in the + throat that it is well to alleviate occasionally. + </p> + <p> + The Great Pyramid is built on a rock platform, about a hundred feet above + the level of the plain below; from a very early period, it was one of the + cemeteries of Memphis, and at the present day the remains of tombs are + scattered all around, most of them being buried in the sand. The stones + for building the pyramid came from the other side of the Nile, and were + ferried over in boats to the end of a causeway that was built to + facilitate their transport to the place where they now lie. + </p> + <p> + As it now stands, the pyramid consists of a series of steps <span + class="pagenum">518</span><a name="link518" id="link518"></a>from two to + four feet high, and very few of them are less than three feet. To make the + ascent, you yield yourself into the hands of the two Arabs appointed to + accompany you; they stand above, and lift you up by the arms, at the same + time indicating where you are to place your feet. + </p> + <p> + Imagine a series of steps as high or higher than an ordinary dining-table + or writing-desk. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0213" id="linkimage-0213"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9533.jpg" alt="9533 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9533.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + And then remember that you must ascend on these steps a perpendicular + height of four hundred and eighty feet. + </p> + <p> + Originally, when completed, the pyramid had a casing of granite and + limestone fitted into these steps, so that an ascent was impossible. The + casing has entirely disappeared, having been removed for building purposes + in Cairo at the time of the Caliphs; on the second pyramid, part of the + casing still remains, though, broken in places, and gives an idea of the + beauty of the whole, before the work was injured. + </p> + <p> + And now a few figures; skip them if you like, and don’t say anything + about them. + </p> + <p> + The great pyramid is seven hundred and forty-six feet long, and four + hundred and eighty feet high. It covers an area of five <span + class="pagenum">519</span><a name="link519" id="link519"></a>hundred and + thirty-six thousand square feet, or nearly thirteen acres. Its solid + contents are calculated at eighty-five million cubic feet. How much do you + suppose that is? + </p> + <p> + Well, you could build a wall four feet high and two feet thick, and + something more than two thousand miles long, with the stones in this + pyramid, or you could build a wall twelve feet high and four feet thick + all the way from Cincinnati to St. Louis—a distance of three hundred + and forty miles. And if you piled it up around Manhattan Island, where New + York stands, you would encircle that metropolis with a wall twenty feet + thick and forty feet high. And remember that all this stone was hewn from + the quarries, and moved and piled up before the days of steam! + </p> + <p> + How were the pyramids built? That is a conundrum which many people have + puzzled over, and nobody has been able to answer. The Egyptians have left + nothing to indicate how they performed their work, and nobody has been + able to devise a satisfactory explanation. Many men have theorized about + the matter, and every time anybody builds up a theory the rest of them + show that it was impossible to build the pyramids in that way. One of + these days, something may be discovered to throw light upon the matter, + but at present all is darkness. + </p> + <p> + All this time I have had you climbing up the northeast corner of the great + pyramid, halting occasionally to take breath and a swallow of water, and a + glance at the country around and below us. It is tough work for the + muscles, to climb these high steps, but if you are patient and careful you + will get along without much trouble. + </p> + <p> + In about fifteen minutes we are at the top, and the Arabs indulge in a + hurrah as we get there. They pestered me on the way up to give them a + personal fee, in addition to what I gave the sheik, and I promised it to + them on condition that they should not allude to it again until they + reached the base. The men I had were strong, healthy fellows, rather + dignified in their bearing, and they spoke English, French, and Italian + sufficiently well to be understood. They handled me without difficulty, + and by making them understand what I wanted at the outset, and being firm + with them, I had no trouble. + </p> + <p> + The Judge had so much bother with the Arabs, that he was <span + class="pagenum">520</span><a name="link520" id="link520"></a>rather + disgusted with his visit. About a dozen of the fellows accompanied him, + and gave him all sorts of assistance. Two pulled him up, and two pushed; + one unwound his turban, and two others put it around the Judge’s + waist in order to lift him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0214" id="linkimage-0214"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9535.jpg" alt="9535 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9535.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + Another carried his overcoat, another his cane, and another a bottle of + water, and two or three others gave directions as to the proper places for + his feet. + </p> + <p> + When he reached the top, they wanted some “backsheesh,” and he + was injudicious enough to give it. This opened the ball, and they kept at + him; and he gave away, there and at the base of the pyramid, something + over twenty-five francs. Each man who pulled and each who pushed wanted + something; the fellows who lifted at the turban wanted something, and the + owner of the turban wanted something for the use of it; the man who + carried his overcoat wanted something, and so did the cane-bearer and the + water-bearer; then the other fellows wanted something, and after they had + received something all around separately, they asked for a general fee in + addition. You could no more satisfy these brigands with any ordinary lot + of money, than you could bail out Lake Erie with a teaspoon. + </p> + <p> + Originally, the summit of the great pyramid was a point or very <span + class="pagenum">521</span><a name="link521" id="link521"></a>nearly so; it + has been removed so that it is now about thirty feet square, some of the + blocks resting higher than others. You can sit around them there very + comfortably, but there isn’t much to see when you are there—that + is, nothing very different from what you can see at the base. On the west + is the desert, north is the rich delta of the Nile, east is Cairo, beyond + the river and backed by the Mokattaw and other hills that fill the + horizon, and south there is the valley of the Nile, opening between the + double lines of desert on either side. There are no mountains to attract + the eye with their varieties of color and jaggedness of outline; there are + no lakes shining in the sunlight, and there is no glimpse of the ocean + with its ever-beating waves. + </p> + <p> + The prettiest artificial features of the landscape are the walls and domes + and minarets of Cairo, and the most salient natural features are the sharp + contrast of valley and desert. There is no intermediate ground; at one + place it is rich alluvium, and six inches away lies the arid sand. The one + is a deep, rich green; the other is a greyish white, dazzling where it + reflects the sun, and tinted with the faintest shade of purple where it + does not. The one is the perfection of fertility, the most fecund spot of + land on the globe; the other is bleak and utter sterility, with not the + tiniest blade of grass or shred of lichen to relieve its desolation. + Nature draws nowhere a picture of sharper contrasts. + </p> + <p> + Out from the deserts in the southern horizon comes the Nile, freighted + with the mud which makes the wealth of Egypt. It is more than that—it + <i>is</i> Egypt, and were it not for this river, the land of the Pharaohs, + the Caliphs, and the Khedive would not exist. You can trace the river as + it winds away through the Delta and separates into the branches and canals + which enable it to distribute its blessings over a wide area There is no + point where you can better realize how much the Nile is Egypt than when + you look from the summit of the great pyramid. + </p> + <p> + While we were at the summit, an Arab proposed to run from where we stood + to the top of the second pyramid in ten minutes, a feat which at first + glance seemed impossible. We finally agreed to give him five francs if he + would do it, and away he started. He jumped from block to block with the + agility of a monkey, at <span class="pagenum">522</span><a name="link522" + id="link522"></a>about the rate that an able-bodied boy descends an + ordinary staircase, when he is in a hurry to get something at the bottom. + He ran across the space between the pyramids and up the other, but I + observed that he made the ascent with less appearance of hurry than when + descending the first. He made the journey in a little more than ten + minutes, and I have heard of an Arab doing it inside of eight minutes. + </p> + <p> + This is one of the stock amusements of the trip to the pyramids, and I + have a book, written thirty years ago, in which the same feat is + mentioned. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0215" id="linkimage-0215"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9537.jpg" alt="9537 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9537.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We offered to give the whole crowd of Arabs five francs each if they would + stand at the edge of the platform and then turn a somersault downwards and + outwards; they were inclined to consider the matter at first, but one of + them, after a moment’s thought, exclaimed, “It would kill us; + we no do it.” + </p> + <p> + We explained that this was exactly what we wanted. The fellow laughed, and + replied, “It do you no good; plenty more Arabs left. They come here + and take our place, and they not good Arabs like us.” + </p> + <p> + We had nothing more to say. + </p> + <p> + In descending the pyramid, my two Arabs stepped ahead and took my hands as + I jumped from step to step. I found it much easier than the ascent, as I + had my weight, which is not that of a feather, to assist me. + </p> + <p> + There is a difference of opinion about the descent, some affirming that it + is much worse than going up, while others are equally vehement in saying + that it is much easier. It depends upon a + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">523</span><a name="link523" id="link523"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0216" id="linkimage-0216"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0538.jpg" alt="0538 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0538.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">525</span><a name="link525" id="link525"></a>variety + of personal circumstances, such as weight, age, condition of muscles and + lungs, and upon the manipulations of the Arabs that have you in charge. + The same conditions in every respect will not be found in any two persons. + </p> + <p> + In any event, unless much accustomed to climbing, you will have a + realizing sense of weariness for the rest of the day, and when you attempt + to rise next morning, and move your stiffened limbs, you can easily + imagine yourself to be your own grandfather. + </p> + <p> + The great pyramid was built by Cheops, one of the kings of Memphis, who + ruled about twenty-seven hundred years before Christ—some say nearly + four thousand years—and was intended for his monument. Three hundred + thousand men are said to have been employed twenty years upon its + construction, and some authorities say it was not completed till after his + death. When his mummy was ready, it was put inside the granite sarcophagus + intended for it, and the entrance was carefully walled up and concealed. + It remained thus closed for many centuries. In the year 820 of our era, + one of the Caliphs of Cairo ordered a search for the opening, and it was + finally discovered at quite a distance up from the ground on one side. + Nothing of consequence was found there, and the Caliph was greatly + disappointed, as he had expected a vast treasure which tradition said was + concealed there. + </p> + <p> + It is quite as wearisome work to go inside as to climb to the top, and + many persons think it is worse. + </p> + <p> + From the opening, you descend about sixty feet, at an angle of 26°, + through a passage way three ft. five in. high, and three ft. eleven in. + wide. Then, after a slight detour, you have an ascent at the same angle + for nearly three hundred feet, some parts of it being quite low, and + others expanding into a high gallery. At the end of this passage is the + sepulchral vault known as the King’s Chamber, and containing nothing + but an empty sarcophagus of red granite. The sides and roof of the chamber + are of polished granite; the room measures thirty-four ft. by seventeen, + and the height is a little over nineteen feet. + </p> + <p> + Below it, and reached by a horizontal gallery from the main entrance, is + another apartment called the Queen’s Chamber, <span class="pagenum">526</span><a + name="link526" id="link526"></a>somewhat smaller than the upper one, and + there are three or four other insignificant apartments whose use has not + been clearly determined. + </p> + <p> + The passage by which we enter the pyramid continues three hundred and + twenty feet downwards, at the same angle as at the commencement, and so + straight is it that when you are at the lower end you can see the sky as + if looking through the tube of a huge telescope. At the end of it there is + a small chamber, and in this a well has been dug thirty-six feet, without + finding any signs of water. The statement of Herodotus, that this chamber + was filled by the inflow from the Nile, is probably on a par with other + statements of this reliable gentleman. + </p> + <p> + Most travellers are satisfied with a very brief examination of the + interior of the pyramid, and are glad to scramble out without delay. The + heat is pretty high, the air is close, and the dust almost stifling. Then + there are the smoke of the candles and the glare of the magnesium wire, + used for lighting up the interior of the chambers, and the noise made by + the Arabs, which is ten times worse than the same amount of din in the + open air. + </p> + <p> + Formerly, they had a trick of frightening timid persons into the payment + of heavy “backsheesh,” to secure a safe return to the outside, + and not unfrequently they attempt the same thing now. Some persons have + been very roughly handled by them, and on a few occasions they have + verified the American proverb about waking up the wrong passenger. + </p> + <p> + Early this season, an Englishman and an American went together to visit + the pyramid, and, while they were inside, the Arabs began to threaten + them. One Arab was knocked senseless, and the others were told that they + would have the same fate, if they did not instantly and safely take the + strangers outside. + </p> + <p> + They obeyed, and when the outer air was reached were told that they would + not receive anything for their services. + </p> + <p> + They became importunate, and two more of them were knocked down. A squad + of soldiers from a surveying party happened to be near; the officer in + charge of them was appealed to successfully, and the offenders were + severely thrashed. Since then, there has been less rudeness to persons + visiting the interior of the pyramid. <span class="pagenum">527</span><a + name="link527" id="link527"></a>About a quarter of a mile southeast of the + great pyramid is the famous work of antiquity known as the Sphinx. It is + much mutilated about the face, and is buried up to the breast in the sand. + Its origin and meaning are unknown; volumes have been written about it, + and for more than two thousand years it has been the subject of much + learned controversy, of which I have not space to give even the outline. + It has the body of an animal in a crouching position, and the head of a + man. The body, a hundred and forty feet long, is formed of the natural + rock, with pieces of masonry here and there to fill up the cavities. The + head is cut out of the solid rock, and was originally about thirty feet + from the top of the forehead to the bottom of the chin, and about fourteen + feet broad. + </p> + <p> + Originally, it had a cap, wig, and beard; the cap is gone, but the wig is + still there, and the beard, which has fallen, lies on the ground below. As + it now stands, only the head, shoulders, and back of the Sphinx are + visible, the sand being everywhere drifted and piled around the rest. + There was, originally, a temple and altar between its paws, and there was + a flight of steps that descended from a platform in front of the temple to + the plain below. + </p> + <p> + The nose and most of the lips are gone, as though the Sphinx has been the + party of the second part, in a prize-fight for the championship, but, with + all its disfiguration, the statue retains much of the comeliness and + grandeur for which it has long been famous. + </p> + <p> + What must have been its beauty before time and man placed their spoiling + hands upon it, and before the encroaching desert heaped the sand around + it, burying the platform, the steps, and the temples, and converting the + whole scene into one of desolation! Could any pageant of modern times + surpass the spectacle of the processions of Memphis, arranged after the + manner of the most brilliant period of Egyptian history, and coming to + offer adoration at the temple guarded between the paws of that figure hewn + from the living rock and overshadowed by that mysterious and immobile + face? Shall we ever know who was its architect, and what was the purport + of this remarkable statue? Who will explain the riddle of the Sphinx? + <span class="pagenum">528</span><a name="link528" id="link528"></a>Proceeding + southerly from the Sphinx, we reach a temple which was discovered and + excavated a few years ago. It is lined with red granite, porphyry, and + alabaster, and the stones of which it is composed are very nicely joined + together. + </p> + <p> + Its history is unknown, but, from certain inscriptions and statues found + there, it is supposed to owe its erection to Cephrenes, or Shafra, the + builder of the second pyramid. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs broke off pieces of the stone to sell to us, but we declined to + buy. Part of a statue lies buried in the sand; a statue of Cephrenes was + discovered here, and is now in the museum at Cairo. There are many tombs + and small temples all around the pyramids, but they have no great, + interest after one has seen the great pyramid and the Sphinx. All the + tombs, as far as known, have been opened and examined, and their contents, + if of any value, carried away. Doubtless there are some yet undiscovered, + but at present there are no explorations in progress. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0217" id="linkimage-0217"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5543.jpg" alt="5543 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5543.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">529</span><a name="link529" id="link529"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0218" id="linkimage-0218"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0544.jpg" alt="0544 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0544.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0042" id="link2HCH0042"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLII—A VOYAGE UP THE NILE.—THE MYSTERIES OF EGYPTIAN + ART AND WORSHIP. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Up the Nile in a Sail-Boat—Starting for the Cataracts—Advantages + of a Drago man—A Tricky Lot—Frauds on Travellers—Our + Party—Rather Cosmopolitan—Getting Ahead of Mr. Cook—Our + Little Game, and How it Worked—A Bath with Spectators—Decidedly + Cool—Getting Aground—A Picturesque Landscape—Last + Glimpse of the Pyramids—Spending Night on Shore—Among the + Ruins of Memphis—The Wonders of Egyptian Art—What Marriette + Bey Discovered—Laying Bare a Mysterious Sepulchre—Ancient + Egyptian Worship—Sacred Bulls and Beetles—A History Written in + Stone—Bricks Made by the Israelites.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">A</span> JOURNEY to Egypt + without a trip up the Nile is something like Hamlet without the melancholy + Dane. Time and money are the insignificant requisites for the excursion, + and it is necessary to be pretty well provided with both, in order to make + the journey a comfortable one. + </p> + <p> + The proper way to do the Nile trip is in a sail boat or <i>dahabeeah</i>, + as it is called there; this is the way that most travellers have made it, + and the way in which all were obliged to make it until a few years ago, + when steamers were introduced. For a <i>dahabeeah</i> voyage you must be + prepared to take your own time, and not be restricted to getting back to + Cairo at a certain date, unless you make that date so far distant as to + cover all contingencies. You can hire the boat by the day or by the + course; either way is not altogether satisfactory, as I have heard that no + matter which mode you select, you will afterwards advise intending + voyagers to take the other. If you go by the day, it is for the <span + class="pagenum">530</span><a name="link530" id="link530"></a>interest of + the boatman to be on the river as long as possible, and he will invent all + sorts of excuses for delays. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0219" id="linkimage-0219"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0545.jpg" alt="0545 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0545.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + If you go by the course, you are hurried along as fast as he can crowd + you, and if you wish to stop at a place while ascending the river, he will + make a variety of objections to your doing so, unless there is an adverse + wind or some other cause to prevent the advance of the boat. Most + travellers charter the boat by the course, and, all things considered, + this is the best plan,—with a stipulation for a certain number of + days for stoppages at various points. From fourteen to twenty days delay + are the ordinary stipulation, and the whole journey can be made from Cairo + to the First Cataract and back in about fifty days. Three weeks must be + added if the trip is prolonged to the Second Cataract. These periods are + approximations, as the trip has been made to the First Cataract and back + inside of forty, and in excess of eighty days, and to the Second inside of + sixty, and beyond a hundred. + </p> + <p> + A few years ago the Egyptian government placed some steamers on the Nile, + and arranged to run them to the First Cataract <span class="pagenum">531</span><a + name="link531" id="link531"></a>and back at stated intervals during the + winter season. For a sailboat journey, much preparation is required, as + you must hire a boat, stock it with provisions, engage a dragoman, and do + a variety of things before you start, and the preparations will take from + a week to a fortnight, according to circumstances. Sometimes a dragoman + will take you for a stipulated sum per day, and supply you with boat and + everything, but in this case you can be sure that you will not be well + supplied, unless you pay a high price. + </p> + <p> + With the steamboat trip you have no trouble at all; you have only to buy + your ticket, and go on board at the appointed time; you are fed, lodged, + furnished with guides and donkeys, told when to admire, and how much you + can admire, and have a given number of days, hours, and minutes in which + to do everything. If no accident happens, you will be back in Cairo twenty + days and five hours from the time of your departure, and will have been + put through the Nile trip, as though you were a trunk or a bale of goods. + You have a printed programme of the places to be visited, and of the time + to be devoted to each, and also of the sights at each of those places. You + are instructed not to stray from the party, but to follow the dragoman and + observe the orders he gives. + </p> + <p> + There is in London a man, named Cook, who has been for a quarter of a + century or more a dealer in excursion tickets for England and the + Continent. A few years ago he extended his excursion business to the East, + and latterly he has extended it to America, and around the globe. He has a + rival named Gaze, and they are very savage on each other. Gaze says (in + polite phraseology) that Cook is a liar, and Cook (in equally polite + phraseology) says Gaze is a liar. + </p> + <p> + I have read both their pamphlets, and have come to the conclusion, when + perusing their personal anathemas, that they both tell the truth. + </p> + <p> + Cook sells tourist and single tickets for almost everywhere, and Gaze does + likewise. To travel on one of the tourist tickets is beautiful in theory, + but to me, at least, a great nuisance in practice. I always avoid the + tourist tickets when I can, but sometimes you find a line of transit + monopolized by one of these enterprising agents, and are obliged to take + his ticket or not go <span class="pagenum">532</span><a name="link532" + id="link532"></a>at all. Cook has managed to obtain the appointment of + sole and exclusive, agent for the Nile steamers, and consequently the + traveller who cannot spare the time and money for a <i>dahabeeah</i> + journey, must patronize Cook. + </p> + <p> + To ascend by sail-boat to the First Cataract, and return to Cairo, will + cost two persons about fifteen hundred dollars, and four persons about two + thousand dollars. To go to the Second Cataract will cost about five + hundred more in each case. If the party is larger, the charge is somewhat + lower for each person. For these figures one can get a large, well-fitted + boat, and be entitled to live with every possible comfort; lower rates can + be made for smaller boats, and less luxury; the best terms I heard of when + I was in Egypt, were sixty-five Napoleons (two hundred and sixty dollars + gold) each for a party of five to the First Cataract, and allowing them + fourteen days for stoppages on the return trip. I was several times + offered a contract at seventy or eighty Napoleons each, for a party of + five or six to the First Cataract, and for a hundred Napoleons each, to + the Second. But this was late in the season (early in January), in fact + too late to have a reasonable chance of reaching the Second Cataract. To + go there, one should start in the latter part of November, or early in + December, and for the First Cataract one should start in December. Early + in the season the prices are high; later on they are more reasonable, as + the dragomen and owners of boats begin to be doubtful of securing an + engagement. + </p> + <p> + The price by steamer is forty-six pounds sterling, including everything + except saddles for donkey-riding and one or two insignificant items, which + rouse the temper much more than they deplete the purse. After you have + paid an exorbitantly high price, and are told that it includes everything, + you are then told that you must pay five shillings extra for a saddle, and + eight shillings for a chair; then when you reach the First Cataract, you + are told it will cost from two to five shillings more to see the cataract, + although the advertisement specially says “The ticket includes the + trip to the First Cataract and back.” These petty frauds are of + course inseparable from the tourist business, as I never yet knew of a + person who had bought a ticket to include everything who was not called on + to pay something more. The nearest one can <span class="pagenum">533</span><a + name="link533" id="link533"></a>come to it, is on an ocean steamer, and on + some of the river boats in America, but even there you are liable to be + bled considerably in the course of your journey. You are sometimes very + forcibly reminded of the story of the traveller, who said that the terms + of a certain hotel out west were four dollars per day, with meals and + lodging extra. + </p> + <p> + We were a party of thirty persons altogether, and included six + nationalities,—American, English, French, German, Danish, and + Italian. + </p> + <p> + Every place on the boat was occupied, and there might have been a dozen + more, had there been any place to put them in. The boats leave every two + weeks from the first of December to the end of March, and if at any time + there are passengers enough to fill an extra boat, one is sent off. + </p> + <p> + Three o’clock was the hour for starting, so we left the hotel at + two, sending our luggage on a <i>charette</i>, and taking donkeys, (for + ourselves,) to the landing. + </p> + <p> + Gustave and I thought we would get ahead of Mr. Cook a little, by taking + our own wine along, as the wines on the boat were extra, and sold at a + very high price, and we found that we would save about fifty per cent, by + taking wine from the shop, and paying Cook a shilling a bottle, the + advertised price for corkage. So we bought three cases and put them with + our baggage, but they were stopped on the deck of the steamer, by the + Chief Steward of the line, who said he would examine the wine, fix a price + upon it, and then charge us fifty per cent, on its value. We had about + five minutes of very lively talk, which ended in our triumph, as we had + taken care to bring a copy of the advertisement, with the proper paragraph + ready marked for inspection. + </p> + <p> + It turned out that Cook had bought a large quantity of wine from the + steamboat company, at the time he took charge of the business, and was + anxious to sell it. Under such circumstances it was very natural that he + should object to a passenger supplying himself with wine to drink on the + voyage. It reminded me of the enterprise of train boys on American + railways who neglect to fill the water-coolers in the cars, in order that + they may be able to assuage the thirst of passengers, by selling them + lemonade at five or ten cents a glass. <span class="pagenum">534</span><a + name="link534" id="link534"></a>Of course there were some passengers who + came late, so that we were not off until half an hour beyond the appointed + time. We amused ourselves, while waiting, by watching the movements of the + people on shore. Troops of women and girls came down to the river to fill + water jars, which they poised on their heads and then carried away. + Occasionally a man came down to fill a pig-skin, and I observed that the + men never carried water in anything else than a pig or goat-skin, while + the women as invariably carried it in jars. In several places, men and + women, some of them very scantily dressed, were washing clothes in the + river, and some of the water for drinking purposes was scooped up + unpleasantly near the scene of their operations. One man came to the bank + about twenty feet from the stern of our boat, removed his garments, and + took a bath with as much <i>sang froid</i> as if he were the only person + present. + </p> + <p> + The human form divine, without superfluous adornment or encumbrance, is a + frequent object in an Egyptian landscape. A student of living figures, <i>a + la nature</i>, would here find a good field for his observations. + </p> + <p> + We had not been ten minutes under way before there was an alarm of fire, + and the boat was stopped. It was nothing very serious, only the awning + over the upper deck had taken fire from a spark from the chimney, and a + hole about six inches across was burned in the canvas. A little while + afterward we went aground, but we did not stick there long; half an hour + later there was something wrong about the engine, and we had to run to the + shore. None of these things wasted much time, but they didn’t + promise well for the future. Luckily, however, they were the only events + of the kind in the voyage, except that we went aground occasionally, and + the bad beginning proved like many other similar affairs in life, a good + ending. + </p> + <p> + We steamed past the city, watching the grey walls of Cairo, the domes and + minarets of the mosques, the palaces and hovels, the gardens of the Island + of Roda, the building containing the famous Nilometer, the green fields of + the valley, the glistening sands of the desert, the yellow hills of the + Mokattam, bounding the Lybian waste, the palm-trees stippled here and + there, singly and in clusters, the <i>dahabecahs</i>, with their + long-sloping sails and <span class="pagenum">535</span><a name="link535" + id="link535"></a>their trim and jaunty appearance, the native boats sunk + deep with cargoes of food destined for digestion in the great stomach of + the city, the camels and donkeys and buffaloes, on the bank of the river + the half-dressed or almost undressed natives working the <i>shadoofs</i> + to raise water for irrigating the land, the groups of natives scattered + here and there at work or lazily idling away their time, and over all, the + clear sky of Egypt, with scarcely a touch of color and with no mist or + haze to keep back the rays of the sun. Away to the west were the pyramids + of Gizeh, and south of them were the pyramids of Sakkarah, among the + burning sands and overlooking the site of Memphis. Eastward were the hills + that border the Lybian desert, and in the north was the spreading valley + of the Nile. As we steamed on, the broad valley disappeared, and the hills + seemed to shut in close upon the river. The great pyramids grew faint in + the distance, and when the sun went down, they were just perceptible + through the tops of the palm-trees. + </p> + <p> + We stopped for the night at Badresheyn, a village about fifteen miles + above Cairo; we were to lie there until daylight, as these steamers do not + run at night. From this point passengers on the <i>dahabeeahs</i> + generally make an excursion to the site of Memphis, and to the Apis + Mausoleum. + </p> + <p> + As for Memphis there is very little of it. A half buried statue lying on + its face is shown you, and there are a few substructions and some heaps of + ruins. There are some statues and statuettes in the Museum at Cairo, that + were discovered at Memphis, and i the sites of two temples have been + traced. I went to Memphis with a party early in January, and at that time + the water was so high that most of the famous statue was invisible. This + statue was originally about fifty feet high, and hewn from a single block + of limestone; it stood in front of a temple and is supposed to be the one + mentioned by Herodotus. Memphis was used as a quarry for supplying stone + for the construction of Cairo, and hence the disappearance of the ancient + city. + </p> + <p> + The ride from here to the Apis Mausoleum, or Serapeum as it is frequently + called, is partly through a grove of palm trees and partly through the + desert. This was only recently discovered, and rather curiously we are + indebted to a passage in Strabo, for <span class="pagenum">536</span><a + name="link536" id="link536"></a>the mention of its site. M. Mariette, + conservator of the Monuments of Ancient Egypt, found it in 1860, by one + day discovering the head of a sphinx in the sand, and beneath the head was + the body. Mariette then thought of a passage in Strabo which says, “There + is also a Serapeum in a very sandy spot where drifts of sand are raised by + the wind to such a degree that we saw some sphinxes buried up to their + heads and others half buried.” + </p> + <p> + Mariette took this as a clue and went to work. The labor was most + discouraging as the sand kept falling in almost as fast as it was taken + out. An avenue six hundred feet long was cleared out, and sometimes it was + necessary to dig the trench sixty or seventy feet deep. A hundred and + fifty sphinxes were discovered, besides the pedestals of many others. The + foundations of the temple were discovered and laid bare; many statues were + found, and at last in 1861 the Apis Mausoleum or Burial place of the + Sacred Bulls was opened. The avenue and the foundations of the temple are + again covered with sand, and so is a portion of the Mausoleum, but the + most interesting part is still kept open. + </p> + <p> + We left our donkeys at the house where M. Mariette lived during the + excavation, and accompanied an Arab guide to the tomb. Entering through a + door and descending some steps, we were in the vaults, which consist of + parallel galleries, each more than two hundred yards long and united at + the ends. The galleries are hewn out of the solid rock, and were evidently + cut with great care, but there is nothing very remarkable about them. The + wonderful feature of the place is the stone coffins in which the sacred + bulls were buried. There are twenty-four of them in recesses, on the sides + of the galleries, but never opposite each other, and they are about the + heaviest things in the coffin line that anybody has ever seen. They vary a + little in size, but the average may be taken at thirteen feet long, seven + feet six inches wide, and eleven feet high. + </p> + <p> + Now stop and think before you go on; stop and think how large a room it + would take to hold one of these coffins; well, each coffin is one solid + piece of granite, from the quarries at Assouan, five hundred and eighty + miles up the Nile, and is finished as nicely as you ever saw anything in + the granite line. Four or five persons can sit comfortably inside, and one + of them contains the + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">537</span><a name="link537" id="link537"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0220" id="linkimage-0220"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0552.jpg" alt="0552 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0552.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">539</span><a name="link539" id="link539"></a>table + and chairs where the Empress Eugenie, and the Prince and Princess of Wales + took lunch when they came here. The lid of each coffin is in proportion to + the rest of the work, and like it is of a single piece of granite. An + effort was made a few years ago to remove one of the coffins, but it was + unsuccessful. + </p> + <p> + The Egyptians knew some things that we don’t. We can’t move + these stone coffins; they moved them along the Nile nearly six hundred + miles, and from the East to the West bank, and put them in these galleries + underground and exactly in the recesses where they wanted them, and they + used them as the burial places of the sacred bulls of Memphis; the bulls + that they worshipped as the incarnation of divinity. + </p> + <p> + All the region around here was a burial place, and many excavations have + been made among the tombs. Thousands of mummies have been found, and + doubtless thousands more might be discovered if further researches were + made. It is four thousand years since some of these mummied gentlemen were + pickled and preserved, and they have kept well; you may find them to-day + as fresh as when they were planted, and they reflect creditably upon the + mummy-sharps that put them up, and also upon the wonderfully dry climate + of Egypt. I half suspect that the climate is responsible for the religious + faith of the ancient Egyptians, and particularly for that part of it which + bade them bestow so much care upon their tombs and the preservation of the + body. + </p> + <p> + Had their climate been like that of London or New York, they would have + constructed a different religion, as they would have known they could not + successfully carry out the mummy part of it. + </p> + <p> + Not far from the Bull-Pits, as they are irreverently called, is a portion + of a tomb of a very early date, which is known as the Tomb of Tih. The + body of Mr. Tih was buried in the rock below, and the portion now visible + is the entrance chamber to the establishment. The interesting feature + about it is the mass of sculptures and paintings on the walls. Most of + them are done in low relief, and very well done too. The drawing and + execution show great artistic skill, and some of the groups evince a + knowledge of perspective. The scenes represented are supposed to be + incidents in the life of Tih; they represent him at home and in the field, + and also at the chase. <span class="pagenum">540</span><a name="link540" + id="link540"></a>Tih was a priest who lived at Memphis about the Vth + dynasty of the ancient empire; that is to say, about thirty-seven hundred + years before Christ, or fifty-six hundred years ago. We wont be particular + about a year or two. He is dead now, or at all events they buried him + here. To describe all the scenes pictured on the walls of this tomb, would + keep me writing for a week, and then I shouldn’t be through. In some + of them Tih is hunting crocodiles and hippopotami; in others he is looking + on, while his servants till the fields; in others he is superintending the + building of a wall; and so on through all the incidents of a life of that + period. The life of the Ancient Empire can be studied from the pictures on + this and other tombs of the locality, and we can learn what they did and + how they did it, what animals they used, and what most delighted them to + engage in. Some of the pictures on the Tomb of Tih have a comic touch + about them, and show that there was fun even so far back as fifty-six + centuries ago. + </p> + <p> + There is one picture which shows some donkeys, brought up to be laden, and + they are raising their heels in a miscellaneous sort of a way, and making + things rather lively for those who are trying to control them. In another + picture, where some men are fishing, one has fallen from the boat, and his + friends are pulling him out of the mud. In another, a man has evidently + been pulling at a rope, which has broken, and left him to fall in an + attitude which is decidedly comical. + </p> + <p> + Evidently Tih was no slouch. He got up his tomb regardless of expense, and + made it the best of the kind. The Egyptians often spent more money on + their tombs than on their houses; they considered that they were only + temporary occupants of their houses, but that the tomb was to be their + eternal dwelling place. The tomb was the real home, and hence the effort + to surround the occupant with the scenes he had witnessed on earth. + </p> + <p> + One of the pyramids of Sakkarah is built in degrees or terraces, is nearly + two hundred feet high, and, next to Gizeh, is the largest of the pyramids. + It is supposed to belong to the period of the First Dynasty of the Ancient + Empire, and to be the oldest monument, not only in Egypt, but in the whole + world. According to several archaeologists, it was erected five thousand + years <span class="pagenum">541</span><a name="link541" id="link541"></a>before + Christ. It is built, not of stone, but of sun-dried brick, and though + portions of it had crumbled, they have not altered the general appearance + of the pyramid. Could you wish for better evidence of the preservative + qualities of the climate of Egypt? This pyramid was opened in 1825, but + nothing of consequence was found in it. I had had quite enough of climbing + at Gizeh, and therefore did not attempt to ascend here, and I have not + heard of any other person trying to climb it. + </p> + <p> + Some of the archaeologists say that the bricks of which this pyramid is + composed were made by the Israelites, during their captivity. I shouldn’t + be surprised if this was the case. I certainly don’t know that the + bricks were <i>not</i> made by them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0221" id="linkimage-0221"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0556.jpg" alt="0556 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0556.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">542</span><a name="link542" id="link542"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0222" id="linkimage-0222"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0557.jpg" alt="0557 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0557.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0043" id="link2HCH0043"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIII—LIFE ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE.—COPTS, JUGGLERS, + AND THIEVES.—AMUSING EXPERIENCES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Through an Arab village—Creating a Sensation—The “Doubter” + alarmed—The li Professor perpetrates a hoax—The Egyptian + Saratoga—An Oriental Post-Office—A queer Town—Specimens + of Ancient Art—A wooden statue three thousand years old—A + Coptic Convent—“Backsheesh, Howadji!”—Carrying + money in their I mouths—Sturdy Beggars—An expert Swimmer—The + Copts, who are they?—Skilful swindlers—Sugar Mills on the + banks of the Nile—Egyptian Jugglers—A Snake-Charmer—Adroit + Thieves—A Melancholy Experience in Donkey-riding.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span> WAS up early on + the first morning out from Cairo, and found the sun rising through a thin + mist, which cleared away very speedily. Our dragoman went ashore to get a + supply of milk for the breakfast table, from the village opposite, and + Gustave and I followed him, and were soon in a tangle of narrow lanes, + that were very crooked and would greatly puzzle a stranger to find his way + among them. + </p> + <p> + Three or four times we brought up into <i>culs-de-sac</i>, or blind + alleys, and had to force our way back and try again. Dogs barked and + children gathered around us, and some buffalo cows took fright at the + apparition of a couple of Europeans and fled into one of the houses. + Chickens on a house top flew away, as if we had come to eat them, and some + of the Arabs came out with expressions on their faces the reverse of + pleasant, Evidently we had created a sensation, but not a very agreeable + one. + </p> + <p> + The milk was soon obtained, and we obeyed the warning whistle and went on + board. The voyage through the day was <span class="pagenum">543</span><a + name="link543" id="link543"></a>not specially interesting, as there are no + ruins of interest on this part of the river, and the banks are rather + monotonous. One hour was much like another, and the sights were nearly the + same—crumbling banks, shadoofs, donkeys, camels and Arabs, sand-bars + and islands, palm trees fringing the horizon or standing out in front of + the grey hills of the desert, the sandy waste in the distance, and the + river, covered more or less thickly with Arab boats. + </p> + <p> + These boats, when laden, were sunk rather deeply, and boards were placed + along the sides to prevent the water breaking over. The “Doubter” + was puzzled to know why they always put these boards at the sides of the + boats. The Professor (this was the name we sometimes gave to Gustave) came + to his relief with the following explanation: + </p> + <p> + “The Nile rises every year, and they put these boards up while the + river is high to prevent the water coming into the boats, just as they + build up the banks to keep the fields from being drowned out.” + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” was satisfied for a moment, but only for a + moment. + </p> + <p> + “But will the boats float on the water, whether the river is high or + low,” he asked, “and if they do, what is the use of the + side-boards at one time more than another?” + </p> + <p> + The Professor was equal to the emergency, and explained that the rise of + the river was so rapid, and the boats were so slow in their motion, that + the flood frequently overtook and swamped them. There was no further + conversation on this topic. + </p> + <p> + One of the points passed early in the morning was Helwan, which contains + some remarkable springs of sulphur. They were known to the early + Egyptians, and it is recorded that one of the kings used to send leprous + persons there, in the hope of curing them, or, at all events, of + separating them from the rest of the people. They have been quite + neglected in later times, until a few years ago, when their virtues were + discovered and a bathhouse and hotel were erected there. They are much + visited by Europeans and Turks, and some persons have been benefited by + them. An omnibus runs there twice a week from Cairo, and much of the time + the hotel is full. The place is in the desert, <span class="pagenum">544</span><a + name="link544" id="link544"></a>a little distance from the river, and the + absence of shade trees, grass, or anything of the sort, makes the spot + rather dreary for a lengthened stay. But the place is gradually growing + fashionable, and when it becomes the <i>mode</i> to go there I fancy they + will have more hotels and society enough to make the time pass without too + much stupidity. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we reached Beni-Soef, and took a stroll through the town, + which has a population of about five thousand, and can boast of a + fairly-stocked bazaar. We saw nothing of importance in our walk that we + had not already seen at Cairo. I strayed from the party and hired a boy to + direct me to the post-office, where I posted a letter for America. The + place was closed, but luckily I had the proper stamps on the letter, so + that there was nothing to do beyond dropping the missive into the box. + </p> + <p> + The Egyptian postal department is quite well managed; the postmaster + general is an Italian, and the most of his employés are of his + nationality. The office at Cairo is in a large building, specially erected + for it, and you have no trouble in finding the delivery windows and in + obtaining the proper stamps, when you want them. They pay great attention + to the delivery of letters to foreigners, and a placard in all the hotels + informs persons about to ascend the Nile, that by leaving their addresses + at the office, they can have their mail matter forwarded to any point on, + the river they may designate. The steamboats carry letters to parties on + dahabeeahs, and several times the boat was stopped to deliver such + parcels. + </p> + <p> + The pyramid of Meidoon in this vicinity is supposed to be older than any + of the pyramids of Gizeh, as it was probably erected by the predecessor of + Cheops. All around it are tombs, and some of them have been explored with + the most gratifying results. In one of them two stone statues, in perfect + preservation, were found in 1872, and are now in the Museum at Cairo. + </p> + <p> + They belong to the Hid Dynasty, and are consequently more than six + thousand years old. The work on them is admirable, and they are evidently + likenesses, and excellent ones too. The eyes are made of crystal, with a + piece of black porphyry for the pupils, and this combination gives them a + remarkably life-like + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">545</span><a name="link545" id="link545"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0223" id="linkimage-0223"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0560.jpg" alt="0560 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0560.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">547</span><a name="link547" id="link547"></a>appearance. + I have several times lingered in front of them in admiration of their + excellence, and one day, while I was standing there, the director of the + museum said: + </p> + <p> + “You should see them late in the afternoon, when the slanting rays + of light fall upon them; they sometimes look as if ready to step out and + speak, and seem much more human than inanimate.” + </p> + <p> + The art of sculpture has not advanced as much as many persons imagine. + </p> + <p> + There is in the museum another statue of about the same age, but it is + made of wood; it represents a man standing erect, and is about half the + natural size, and as life-like as any piece of work that ever issued from + a Greek or Roman studio. Its eyes are inserted within a closing covering + of bronze, which serves for the lids; the eye itself consists of opaque, + white quartz, with a piece of rock crystal in the centre, as a pupil; + there is a glittering point beneath this crystal, so that the resemblance + to life is almost perfect. The head and body are remarkably well executed, + and evidently the figure is a good likeness of the person represented, who + was not a king, or a divinity, but simply a <i>sheik-el-beled</i>, or + village chief. The statue was complete when found, with the exception of + the feet, which have been supplied, to enable the figure to be placed on a + pedestal. Originally, the statue was covered with a slight coating of + stucco, painted red and white, but this is nearly gone now. + </p> + <p> + On a bluff, on the east bank of the river, there is a Coptic convent, many + of whose inmates are accustomed to visit passing boats, and beg for + “backsheesh.” We had a visit from them; the first that was + known of their coming was by a rush of two or three passengers to the + after part of the steamer. They were followed by all the others then on + deck, and the cause of the movement was seen in the small boats, which we + towed astern. + </p> + <p> + A tall, muscular fellow, perfectly nude, was standing there and + gesticulating to the passengers with the explanation, “backsheesh, + howadji; ana Chritiané” (“a present, gentlemen, I am a + Christian.”) + </p> + <p> + His dress, or the absence of it, caused the ladies to make a precipitate + retreat, and to fall again to their reading, with <span class="pagenum">548</span><a + name="link548" id="link548"></a>an appearance of deep absorption. Soon + another beggar joined the fellow, and we tossed a few coppers into the + boat. They took the money in their mouths, as they had no other way of + carrying it, and one of them got so much copper that it nearly strangled + him. About a dozen made the attempt to board the steamer, and more than + half of them succeeded. Remember that the steamer was going at full speed + against the stream and you will wonder how they got on board. I watched + one fellow, and here is his mode of operations. + </p> + <p> + These men swim, not after the Occidental manner, but with a hand-over-hand + motion, analagous to the swimming of a dog. When a man wanted to board the + steamer, he took a position near her supposed track, so that when she + passed him the wheels were not more than a yard from his head. The instant + the wheel had gone by, he struck out most vigorously towards the stern of + the steamer, and by great effort was able to climb into the small boat, + towing behind us. Formerly they came on the steamer itself, and rendered + it necessary for the ladies to retreat to the cabins, but at present they + can come no further than the small boats. + </p> + <p> + The Copts are supposed to be the descendants of the ancient Egyptians, but + they have become so mixed with the Arabs and others, that it is hard to + say what they are. They form about one-sixteenth of the population, and + the most of them are Christians; the name is generally applied only to the + Christian natives, but there are many Copts who are Mohammedans. + </p> + <p> + Their ancient language is almost lost; it is used in the churches for + reading the prayers, in the same way that the Catholics use Latin, and the + Russians the Slavonic. Their language in daily life is the Egyptian Arabic + of the rest of the country; as a rule, they are better educated than the + rest of the people, and are extensively employed as clerks and + bookkeepers, not only in shops, but in various government offices. They + have a cleaner and better kept appearance on the whole than the Moslem + Arabs, and some of them are such great rascals, and show so much skill in + swindling, as to indicate considerable familiarity with the principles of + civilization. + </p> + <p> + The Copts were among the earliest converts to Christianity, <span + class="pagenum">549</span><a name="link549" id="link549"></a>but they + embraced heretical doctrines, which received the denunciation of the + Church in the sixth century. Several of their churches may be seen in the + Fostal quarter of Cairo. + </p> + <p> + We passed in this part of the river a great many sugar-mills, most of them + in full operation, as it was then the proper season of the cane-harvest. + The boat stopped at Minieh long enough to allow us to visit one of these + mills. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0224" id="linkimage-0224"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0564.jpg" alt="0564 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0564.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The mill is on a grand scale, the machinery for crushing the cane and + reducing the piece to sugar is all of French manufacture, and is of the + most perfect character. I was unable to ascertain what amount of sugar is + made there, or at the other points, but the product ought to be very + large, to judge by the size of the mills and their number. The mill at + Minieh covers a large area, and is so arranged that from the time the cane + enters <span class="pagenum">550</span><a name="link550" id="link550"></a>the + crushers until the dry sugar is ready, there is no occasion for lifting or + handling the material, except in a few instances. The sugar culture ought + to pay a handsome profit, but I was told that it is really a loss, and + that the Khedive would gladly sell it out to private parties. The cause of + this unprofitableness is due, I was told, to the frauds of the managers of + the mills. Such a state of affairs is not confined to Egypt alone; there + are many countries where government factories have been run at a loss, but + when turned into private hands, have yielded a handsome profit. + </p> + <p> + One of the great wants of Egypt is the discovery of coal. At present fuel + is costly, and all the coal used in the mills and on railways and + steamers, must be imported, and, of course, at heavy expense. Explorations + have been made on the upper Nile, and elsewhere, in the hope of finding + coal, but they have not yet been successful. Small deposits have been + found in isolated localities, but none that could be profitably worked. + Lower Egypt does not offer much hope to the coal-searcher, but there are + parts of the Soudan where the prospect is better. A wide coal-bed, + accessible from the river, so as to ensure a low cost, would be a great + boon to the country. There is very little wood for fuel, and among the + peasants, dry camel-dung is extensively used. + </p> + <p> + After looking at the sugar mill, we strolled through the town of Minieh, + and at the farther side, found a large crowd of people. They were looking + at a juggler, who was performing a variety of tricks, none of them + specially interesting, and compelling a couple of small boys to go through + a comic dialogue, that evidently pleased the people very much, to judge by + their immoderate laughter. The fellow had a large snake, which he wound + around his neck, and had taught to dance, but his snake-charming was + evidently the least of his performances. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally he allowed the snake to run on the ground, and when thus + free, the reptile went around the circle with his head raised, and created + a great deal of disturbance among the boys in the front row. + </p> + <p> + The snake-charmers are a peculiar class in Egypt; they will go to houses, + and for a stipulated sum, will charm snakes from the walls or other + localities, and they perform their work so well <span class="pagenum">551</span><a + name="link551" id="link551"></a>that nobody has ever succeeded in + detecting them in a fraud I do not mean to say that they can find snakes + where none exist; their art consists in enticing snakes that may be in a + house to come out from their concealment, and allow themselves to be put + in a bag and carried away. They do this by burning a sort of incense, and + playing a doleful tune on a reed flute. + </p> + <p> + Our introduction to sight-seeing, at Beni-Hassan, in upper Egypt, was not + prepossessing. There were donkeys on the bank, without saddles or bridles, + and the worst donkeys that I ever saw offered for anybody to ride. The + people were as bad as the donkeys, and presented a forlorn appearance; the + inhabitants of this locality were formerly famous for their thieving + propensities, and so bad were they in this respect that Ibrahim Pasha sent + a military force to destroy their village and scatter its occupants. It + would not be safe for a small-boat to lie there now over night, except + with a very watchful guard. They beset us when we went on shore, and there + was a crowd around me, with a dozen donkeys offering at once. I found a + donkey that was fairly decent, but, while my back was turned, somebody + else mounted him, and I was forced to take another and a poorer beast. + </p> + <p> + The donkey that I obtained must have been one of those possessed by the + Beni-Hassanites when their village was destroyed by the Pasha’s + order, forty years ago, and I am not sure but that he dated from one of + the dynasties of ancient Egypt. He had much less hair than mud on his + back, and I suspected that he passed his time in a mud-hole when not + otherwise engaged. The saddle fitted him in a manner fearful and wonderful + to behold, and there was some doubt as to whether it touched him anywhere. + When I mounted him, he sat down in a manner perfectly natural for a dog, + but not altogether so for a donkey. The result of this performance was to + send me over backwards and leave me with my shoulders on the ground and my + feet in the air. I found this position inconvenient, and also provocative + of mirth in others, and therefore did not long maintain it. Even the + donkey boy laughed, a proceeding which showed how little he knew of polite + society. + </p> + <p> + The next time I mounted I sat on the beast’s shoulders and prevented + his sitting down. But I could not prevent his kneel<span class="pagenum">552</span><a + name="link552" id="link552"></a>ing, and I leave you to imagine the + result. A regard for my personal feelings prevents my giving a detailed + description of this harrowing tale. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0225" id="linkimage-0225"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9567.jpg" alt="9567 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9567.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + It was nothing else, and I think I must have harrowed, with my hands, + feet, and nose, not less than a square rod of land in the vicinity of that + donkey, and I also harrowed him and the donkey boy, and would have served + the bystanders likewise, if they had not been more numerous than I was. I + didn’t feel a bit amiable. + </p> + <p> + At last we were off. I rode my donkey on foot most of the time, and we + went along very well in this way, he walking about two yards behind me, + and very amiable and patient, while I was as cross as a man whose shirts + haven’t come home from the wash-woman. + </p> + <p> + We did about six miles altogether that day, and I think I walked + altogether about seven miles. To sit on him was a toil worse than walking, + and his best gait was when he was standing still. He was splendid on that + part of the business, and I don’t think there was ever a donkey that + could stand stiller than he. + </p> + <p> + He was about the size of a Newfoundland dog, so that when I mounted him, + my feet touched the ground on both sides. And yet he was one of the best, + or rather one of the least bad, of the lot. There were only two or three + that surpassed him in personal appearance and strength. + </p> + <p> + Not one of our party will ever forget that donkey-ride to see the “Antiquities + of Egypt;” and when at last the hardships of the journey were over, + and we arrived at the Ancient Tombs—the handiwork of man centuries + ago—we forgot our sore spots <span class="pagenum">553</span><a + name="link553" id="link553"></a>and lame bones, and our ill-nature gave + way to curiosity and wonder at the scene around us. + </p> + <p> + These tombs, or grottos, are hewn in the solid rock, part of them on the + bluff, fronting the river, and the rest in a ravine, or valley, that runs + inland from the alluvial land of the Nile. The rock is a soft limestone, + not difficult to quarry, and quite possibly when these grottos were made, + the stone may have been softer than now. The excavations belong mostly to + the eleventh and twelfth dynasties, and therefore are not as old as the + pyramids of Gizeh and Sakkarah, but older than the temples and monuments + at Thebes. They are old enough for all practical purposes, and are very + much out of repair. + </p> + <p> + The walls are covered with paintings and inscriptions, that throw much + light on the manners and customs of the time, and it would take more space + than I can spare to describe them. Among the most interesting is a series + of paintings representing the arrival of some strangers in Egypt; they + were at first supposed to be Joseph and his brethren, but this can hardly + be, as the tomb was made several hundred years before Joseph’s + arrival. In one of the tombs there are representations of various + tradesmen at work, and among them are barbers, shoemakers, painters + tailors, glass-blowers, and goldsmiths. There are also people playing + ball, wrestling, and throwing heavy stones, and in one place a couple of + patrons of the prize ring are indulging in the noble art of manly + disfiguration. + </p> + <p> + The tombs, or grottos, are square or oblong chambers, cut in the rock, and + the most of them are so well lighted through their door-ways, that candles + are not needed. In some instances several chambers are connected, and some + of them have wells leading to pits, below where was the real tomb. They + are well above the valley, out of the reach of the highest inundations, + and from their front there is quite a pretty view. In front of some of + them the rock is hewn into pillars and columns, that look at first glance + as though brought from elsewhere. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">554</span><a name="link554" id="link554"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0226" id="linkimage-0226"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0569.jpg" alt="0569 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0569.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0044" id="link2HCH0044"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIV—ADVENTURES IN UPPER EGYPT.—FUN AND FROLIC WITH + THE NATIVES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Siout, the Capital of Upper Egypt—The Pasha’s Palace—An + Egyptian Market-day—A Swift Boat—Going the rounds on a Donkey—Town + Scenes—The Bazaars—Buying a Donkey—Tinkers, Peddlers, + and Cobblers at work—A Curiosity Shop—Three Card Monte in the + land of the Pharaohs—Fighting the Tiger—The Professor takes a + Hand—An ignominious Defeat—A doleful Tale—A River where + the Wind is always fair—The Temple and Tablet of Abydos—“Backsheesh” + as a Medicine—Arab Villages in an Inundation—The Garden of the + Valley—Fun with the Natives—A constant resource fora Practical + Joker—Scrambling for Money—A severe Joke.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>IOUT, or Assiout, + is a large town, with about twenty-five thousand inhabitants, among whom + there are said to be not far from a thousand Christians. Its bazaars are + quite extensive, and some of them reminded me of those of Cairo. + </p> + <p> + The town stands a couple of miles from the river, and there is a broad + avenue leading to it, with a border of fine shade trees. The entrance to + the town is through an old gateway, that is quite picturesque, and + evidently formed a strong defence at the time it was erected. + </p> + <p> + Siout is the capital of the province of the same name, and the most + important town of Upper Egypt. It contains some handsome mosques, several + baths and some fine houses, all in the Arab style. It was formerly a great + resort for caravans from Darfoor and other places in the interior of + Africa, but latterly the trade with those regions is much reduced. + </p> + <p> + It was an hour before our mid-day meal when we reached the town, and + immediately after lunch we mounted the waiting donkeys—much better + than those at Beni-Hassan—and started out. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">555</span><a name="link555" id="link555"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0227" id="linkimage-0227"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0570.jpg" alt="0570 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0570.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">557</span><a name="link557" id="link557"></a>Our + first visit was to some tombs cut in the side of the mountain, overlooking + the valley; they are quite extensive, and were the burial places of + Lycopolis, the ancient city, which occupied the place where Siout now + stands. + </p> + <p> + The present city is modern, only about twenty-five hundred years old, and + it has borne its present name through that period. + </p> + <p> + One of the effects of travelling in Egypt is, that you get in the way of + regarding nothing as ancient that has less than three thousand years of + age. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0228" id="linkimage-0228"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9572.jpg" alt="9572 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9572.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + When you get back to Rome and Athens, the ruins there seem like those of a + house of a first settler in Chicago or St. Louis. Nothing under thirty + centuries will be regarded as antique. + </p> + <p> + It happened to be market day when we reached Siout, and as we rode into + the town, we found the public square crowded with people. In the square + there were large quantities of sugarcane, palm stalks, squashes, peas and + beans exposed for sale, and the natives were squatted around them, or + walking slowly about. + </p> + <p> + The edge of the square was fringed with a lot of solemn old Arabs, smoking + their pipes and giving their whole minds to the business, as they squatted + in front of the wall. Smoking is universally enjoyed by all classes of the + Egyptians. There are many men who are rarely seen without a pipe in their + hand, and many of the wealthy people may be seen on the street, attended + by a servant, who solemnly walks behind carrying his master’s pipe. + The flexible tube of the “<i>Nargeeleh</i>” is often seven or + eight feet long, and its great length allows the smoke to cool before + entering the mouth. <span class="pagenum">558</span><a name="link558" + id="link558"></a>Camels and donkeys were very numerous, and you had to + look sharp to prevent being run over. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0229" id="linkimage-0229"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9573.jpg" alt="9573 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9573.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The Professor was nearly overturned by one of the camels, or rather by the + load of sugar canes that protruded on each side of the animal’s + back, and if I had not pulled him out of the way suddenly, he would have + gone into a basket of eggs, with great detriment to both the merchandise + and himself. + </p> + <p> + Just outside the town was the market place for donkeys, and dozens of + these animals were standing there, awaiting purchasers. We enquired the + prices of some, but the Arabs knew we were not likely to be purchasers, + and so they named exorbitant figures. A fair donkey can be bought for + twenty-five or thirty dollars, and a good one for forty or fifty Prices + range considerably above that, but they are for fancy animals of extra + fine appearance. Twenty pounds will purchase a donkey of much style and + many fine qualities. + </p> + <p> + I have a confession to make, which is to be confidential. I gambled that + day at Siout, and have felt badly about it ever since. The way of it was + this. + </p> + <p> + The Professor and I were walking in the market place, looking at the crowd + of country people and their wares, and at the tinkers, cobblers, and + blacksmiths at work in the open air, at the cafés with their patrons + smoking their long pipes and sipping coffee’ from little cups, at + the peddlers of cakes and oranges, and other edible things, and at the + general confusion and bustle that went on with the most perfect good + nature. + </p> + <p> + While the Professor was bargaining for some old coins—he had’ + a mania for them and was always ready to buy cheap—I made a table, + and he threw the cards with the skill that comes from long practice. + </p> + <p> + I thought I could name the winning card, and so I ventured a copper + piastre—about a cent—on my opinion. Many a man in America has + thought he could name the card, and his faith has been lost in sight and + cost him a great deal of money; I never ventured to try it among the + sharpers of my native land, <span class="pagenum">559</span><a + name="link559" id="link559"></a>discovery which recalled California, Pike’s + Peak, the Mississippi River, and Coney Island all at once. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0230" id="linkimage-0230"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0574.jpg" alt="0574 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0574.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + An Arab of unusually dark complexion had a crowd around him, and was + playing three card monte, the regular game, just as I have seen it many + times in America. He was squatted in front of a strip of cloth, which he + spread on the ground and used as a <span class="pagenum">560</span><a + name="link560" id="link560"></a>but I supposed that an Arab ought not to + know how to deceive a New-Yorker. + </p> + <p> + To my surprise I found that my calculations were wrong, and my piastre + went into the pocket of the card thrower. Then I tried to get back the + money I had lost—-just as many another has tried to do—and my + stake went the same way. I kept on a piastre or half a piastre at a time, + watching the fellow closely, and thinking I ought to be equal to him in + shrewdness. I must have tried as many as twenty times, losing altogether + about a franc, and not once did I win. + </p> + <p> + I gave it up at last, and by this time the Professor came up and concluded + to try his hand. He fared no better than I did, but kept on until he lost + twice as much as I. We gave the fellow half a franc “backsheesh” + for his skill, and credited him with being fitted for his business. If he + lives and can find plenty of patrons, he will get rich in the course of + time. + </p> + <p> + Most of the games of the Egyptians are of kinds which suit their sedate + dispositions. Games partly or wholly hazardous are very common among all + ranks of this people. The game of cards is almost always played for money + or for some other stake, and is called by way of distinction “the + game of hazard.” Persons of the lower orders in the towns of Egypt + are often seen playing at this and other games at the coffee shops; but + frequently for no greater stake than that of a cup of coffee. Many of them + play chess, draughts, and backgammon. Their chess men are of simple forms, + as they are forbidden by their religion to make an image of anything that + has life. + </p> + <p> + Siout is famous for the manufacture of pipe-bowls, coffee cups, and other + things out of a fine clay that abounds in the neighborhood, and most of + our passengers supplied themselves in the bazaars. We had to bargain a + great deal to save ourselves from being swindled, and even then we paid + some pretty high prices. Another article they offered us, was fans of + ostrich feathers, and their prices were about half what the same things + would bring in Cairo. There are some manufactories of cotton goods at + Siout, but the most of the articles sold in the bazaars come from other + places. + </p> + <p> + At Siout we met the boat that ascended the Nile two weeks <span + class="pagenum">561</span><a name="link561" id="link561"></a>ahead of us, + and was now on its return. We were regaled with stories of quarrels, and + it seemed that almost from the day of starting there had been a row of + some kind on board. The disturbance had not quite reached the point of + pistols and coffee, but was very near it, and one of the passengers told + me he expected to fight a duel before reaching Cairo. One of the + misfortunes of these vexed parties is the liability to quarrel; persons + are thrown so closely together, that there must be a great deal of + forbearance and concession on the part of everybody to avoid trouble. + </p> + <p> + The river above and below Siout winds considerably, and sometimes the <i>dahabeeahs</i> + are greatly retarded, going around the bends. Nature has very well + arranged the navigation of the Nile. The general course of the stream is + nearly due North; during the winter the wind blows almost steadily from + the North, so that you can be quite sure of reaching your destination + without great delay. You can sail up stream with the wind, and in going + down the boat floats and is rowed just enough to give her steerage way. + </p> + <p> + When an ascending boat is becalmed, the crew is sent on shore with a tow + rope, to which they are harnessed like so many oxen. They can make twelve + or fifteen miles a day by this sort of work, and we frequently saw them + engaged at it. + </p> + <p> + The first of the temples of ancient Egypt as we ascend the river, is the + one known as that of Sethe I, and called also the temple of Abydos. All + along the river above Siout, there are the remains of temples and traces + of ruined cities, and every year fresh discoveries are made, which throw + light upon the history of the country. + </p> + <p> + We landed at Girgeh—named after St. George of Dragon notoriety—to + make a visit to Abydos. Girgeh was once at quite a distance inland, but + the river has worn away the soil, so that the town has been reached by the + stream, and a portion of it has fallen in. It was once an important place, + but is now of little consequence, and the inhabitants were not + particularly pleasing in appearance. They flocked to the bank with various + things to sell, and the Professor was in his element, as he found a good + supply of old coins. <span class="pagenum">562</span><a name="link562" + id="link562"></a>One man had a scorpion which he wished to sell, and after + he had hung around me for some time, I offered him a piastre if he would + eat the venomous insect. He indignantly refused, much to the amusement of + the rest of the crowd. + </p> + <p> + It was about breakfast time when we arrived, and as the donkeys had been + telegraphed for, they were already waiting for us. We started soon after + breakfast, as we had a ride of three hours before us, and it was necessary + to get to Abydos before the sun was at meridian. + </p> + <p> + The road lay through fields of peas in blossom, through other fields of + beans, and others of sugar cane and doura stalks. Everywhere the verdure + was thick and luxuriant, and remember that we were in the month of + January. + </p> + <p> + We passed several villages and saw many groups of natives at work in the + fields, and here and there we saw camels and buffaloes tied to stakes, and + feeding upon the rich grass. An animal is tied where he can have a range + of forty or fifty feet, and he is not moved until he has eaten the herbage + down to the roots, so that there shall be no waste. + </p> + <p> + The villages consisted of little groups of mud houses, that possessed no + attractions, and when one sees the dirt and general wretchedness about + them, the surprise is that the inhabitants do not die before reaching a + dozen years of age. + </p> + <p> + The villages are built on mounds to keep them out of the way of the + inundation which covers all the flat country and makes it difficult to + move about. + </p> + <p> + I had on this ride a donkey boy, who was the most persistent beggar that I + ever encountered in all the course of my life. + </p> + <p> + When I started on a ride in Egypt, I made it a rule to inform the driver + that I would give him a present when the journey was concluded, and this + promise was generally satisfactory. If he asked for it at the start, I + informed him that he would not get it till we were through with each + other, and it was rare indeed that this statement did not quiet him. + </p> + <p> + The boy that drove my donkey from Girgeh began his appeal as soon as I + mounted, and I thought to quiet him with the usual promise. He was silent + for five minutes or so, and then he broke out with the same appeal; I + repeated my promise, and scolded him <span class="pagenum">563</span><a + name="link563" id="link563"></a>him into silence; ten minutes later he + broke out again, and this time I threatened to thrash him. + </p> + <p> + Next I did thrash him, and that insured peace for awhile; then I was + bothered again, and thrashed him again, so that I had some pretty fair + exercise for my arms. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0231" id="linkimage-0231"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8578.jpg" alt="8578 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8578.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He was not a large boy, so that I was entirely safe in thrashing him, and + every time he renewed his begging, I gave him a cut with the whip. + </p> + <p> + We kept up this fun all the way to the temple, and after I had dismounted, + he followed me with a further appeal, and indicated that he specially + wanted to buy something to eat. I gave him some coppers, and when the + lunch was spread I gave him a part of mine, in the hope of silencing him. + But it was no use; the instant we started back to the river, he began + again to beg, and I I thrashed him as usual. Halfway back he began to + breathe short, his tongue protruded, and he lay down on the grass. + Thinking something was the matter with him, I dismounted and felt his + pulse, which seemed to be all right. + </p> + <p> + “<i>Aos, eh?</i>” I asked (“what is the matter with you?”). + </p> + <p> + “Backsheesh,” was the faint response, and he held out his hand + to receive the cure. + </p> + <p> + I mounted and rode off, and he was up and after me without any sign of + illness. + </p> + <p> + After that he did not try the sick dodge again, but he kept on begging all + the way to the boat; and when I had given him a liberal gratuity, he asked + for more. + </p> + <p> + If the beggars of the whole globe ever want to choose a king, I recommend + them to hunt out this youth at Girgeh, and offer the crown to him, for he + certainly deserves it. + </p> + <p> + The temple stands on the edge of the desert, quite near some <span + class="pagenum">564</span><a name="link564" id="link564"></a>palm trees, + and in the midst of heaps of ruins. It was almost completely buried in the + sand until a few years ago, when it was cleared out by M. Mariette, and + the sculptures it contains were brought to light. + </p> + <p> + To the ordinary visitor, the attractive features of this temple are its + massive proportions, the solidity of its structure, the care shown in all + the details, and not least of all, the vast quantity of sculptured scenes + and hieroglyphic records that abound everywhere. But the historian of + Egypt fixes his eye on the eastern wall of a narrow passage way, leading + from the second hall to one of the smaller chambers. + </p> + <p> + Here King Sethi, and Rameses, his son, are represented making offerings to + seventy-six kings who have preceded them, the name of Sethi being the last + of the list. The names are there, and apparently in chronological order. + This is the famous tablet of Abydos, which has made so much sensation + among the students of the history of Ancient Egypt, as it has enabled them + to make up the list of the kings from Menes, founder of the First Dynasty, + down to Sethi, the second king of the XIXth Dynasty. + </p> + <p> + Its discovery in 1865 has removed much of the mystery surrounding the old + empire, and surpasses in importance any single discovery that has been + made. The tablet of Thebes, now in the British Museum, is of far less + consequence than this. + </p> + <p> + There is another temple not far from this, but in a much more ruined + state. It was evidently of great beauty at the time of its construction, + as the walls were lined throughout with alabaster, and covered with + sculptures richly painted with colors that still remain. + </p> + <p> + All around there are tombs and heaps of rubbish, marking the site of the + city and of its necropolis; and whenever the excavations are renewed on an + extensive scale, we shall doubtless hear of some important discoveries. + </p> + <p> + We returned to the river at Bellianeh, the boat having moved on around the + bend during our absence. It was late in the afternoon when we came there, + and we were ready for dinner. Lunch had been taken among the ruins of the + temple. While picking the leg of a chicken, and washing it down with the + water of the <span class="pagenum">565</span><a name="link565" id="link565"></a>Nile, + I sat with my back against a column whereon was sculptured the figure of a + king offering a tribute to one of the divinities of his time. He had had + no chicken or anything else for many hundred years, but he stood there + perfectly composed, and never once hinted that I ought to divide with him. + He was a patient old oyster, and I wanted to shake hands with him at + parting, but couldn’t find his flipper. + </p> + <p> + One of our favorite amusements at each landing-place was to make the + natives scramble for money. They came down in large numbers, sometimes two + or three hundred of them, and kept up a continual howl of “Backsheesh, + O, Howadji!” that sounded very much like the murmurs of a mob. They + gathered on the bank opposite the stern of the boat, and were ready to + catch all the money we would throw to them. We had a supply of copper for + just such cases, and by a judicious use of it, we made a franc go a great + ways, and this was the way we would distribute it. + </p> + <p> + One of us would take a copper, and after balancing and aiming it several + times, would give it a toss. A mass of hands would be stretched to receive + it, and the crowd would sway in the direction of the falling coin. If it + struck in the dirt, a dozen Arabs would spring upon the place where it + fell, and there would be a scramble for it. Sometimes the struggle would + be so fierce, that the cloud of dust raised thereby would completely + conceal the combatants, and they would emerge with torn garments. + </p> + <p> + Our best fun was in tossing the money so that it would fall just at the + river’s edge; the rear of the crowd would sway forward to seize it, + and their swaying and surging would press the front rank into the water, + so that in a little while we would have half the crowd dripping from an + involuntary bath. The small boys were generally on the lookout for this, + and removed their clothes at an early part of the performance, so that we + had them in <i>puris naturalibus</i>. The men and girls were generally + more modest, but not always so. + </p> + <p> + Usually we had half an hour’s sport before the departure of the + steamer from a village, and sometimes the entire population, with the + exception of a few dignified elders, joined in the scramble. At Bellianeh, + the heads of the village thought the affair <span class="pagenum">566</span><a + name="link566" id="link566"></a>undignified, and determined to put a stop + to it. Two of them appeared on the scene, armed with <i>courbashes</i>—whips + made from hippopotamus hide—and caused a very lively scattering. + </p> + <p> + The boys were whipped into their clothes, and public decency was thereby + protected, but only for a short time. The boat was to lie there half an + hour longer, and we wanted the fun to continue. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0232" id="linkimage-0232"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9581.jpg" alt="9581 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9581.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + So we sent one of the waiters to convey our compliments to the city + fathers, and ask them to go home, and to emphasize the request with an + offer of “backsheesh.” + </p> + <p> + They saw the point at once, each accepted a franc, and suddenly remembered + that he had business elsewhere. In two minutes they had disappeared up a + street, and we had the yelling crowd once more in front of us and once + more naked. Evidently bribery is cheap at Bellianeh. + </p> + <p> + Just back of the landing-place was a heap of loose dust, like a small + mountain. It was not less than forty feet from top to bottom, and the + sides were at an angle of about fifty degrees. To project a copper into + this heap was the height of our ambition, and there were only two men on + the boat who could do it. When a coin was fairly landed there the rush was + interesting. There was a lot of Arabs at the foot of the heap, and another + at the top. Those below scrambled up, and those above scrambled down, and + the cloud they created was something fearful; but luckily the wind blew it + away from us. Sometimes they rolled in a tangled mass of arms and legs + from top to bottom, and the youngsters who had just emerged all wet from + the river were speedily veneered with the adhering dust. It may have been + the ruins of an ancient city that they rolled in, and not impossibly <span + class="pagenum">567</span><a name="link567" id="link567"></a>the ashes of + a king may have stuck to the body of one of these begging natives. Little + they cared for that; they have no more respect for the old kings than we + have for the beggars themselves. + </p> + <p> + The process of disrobing was not an elaborate one. A boy would peel + himself in about ten seconds, as he had only a single garment, a sort of + long shirt, to remove. This shirt is almost invariably made of blue + cotton, like the material which we call “denims” in America, + and such as the hod-carrying Celt and other laboring men generally use for + overalls. + </p> + <p> + All the boys appeared to know how to swim, and they had no hesitation at + rushing into the river. We had swimming matches among them, by attaching + coppers to doura stalks and throwing them out into the stream, where they + were instantly pursued and overtaken. + </p> + <p> + One of the passengers heated a piastre at the cook’s galley, and + then threw it out; the boy who took it immediately dropped it, and it was + seized by another and larger boy, who dropped it in turn. It didn’t + burn them, but was just warm enough to feel uncomfortable. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0233" id="linkimage-0233"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5582.jpg" alt="5582 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5582.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">568</span><a name="link568" id="link568"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0045" id="link2HCH0045"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLV—THE DANCING GIRLS OF KENEH.—THE TREASURES OF + DENDERAH. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Dates and Dancing Girls of Keneh—The Almeh and the Ghawazee—The + Dalilahs of Cairo—Going to the Dance-Hall—An Outlandish + Orchestra—The Drapery of the Dancers—The Cairo Wriggle—Curious + Posturing—A Weird Scene—Dress and Undress—Miracles of + Motion—A Fête at the German Consulate—Models for Painters and + Sculptors—Arab and Nubian Nymphs—The Temple of Denderah—History + Hewn in Stone—Cleopatra and her Portrait—The Fatal Asp—A + Bit of Doggerel—The Coins of Old Egypt—The Professor’s + Bargain—Digging for Treasure—Arrival at Luxor—Taking in + Strangers.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE first place of + importance above Bellianah is Keneh, which stands about three miles inland + from the river, and occupies a pretty situation. It is celebrated for its + dates and dancing girls; we bought some of the former, and were invited to + attend a performance of the latter at the house of the English. + </p> + <p> + We declined the invitation, for the reason that we had sent the dragoman + to arrange a dance at the residence of the fair maidens and did not wish + to impose upon the representative of Her Britannic or any other Majesty. + </p> + <p> + The dates were excellent, the best, in fact, I have ever tasted; they are + packed in drums like figs, but are not pressed down into a solid mass like + the dates we get in America. They are very sweet and soft, and each one of + us laid in half a dozen boxes for his own use. + </p> + <p> + As for the dancing girls, a word in your ear. These ladies are not of the + vestal sort, but, on the contrary, quite the reverse. They were known in + Egypt in ancient times, and one can see pictures of them on the walls of + some of the tombs in the valley of the Nile. In modern times they became + so numerous at Cairo that Mohammed Ali banished them from that city and + sent whole boat-loads of them to Keneh, Esneh, and other towns of upper + Egypt. Those that he banished are not now on the stage of life, but their + descendants or imitators are numerous, and have lent a sort of infamous + fame to the places they inhabit. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">569</span><a name="link569" id="link569"></a>Their + Arabic name is <i>ghawazee</i>; they are sometimes improperly called <i>Almehs</i>, + and there is a French painting of considerable celebrity which represents + the <i>Almeh</i> dancing before a party of men. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Almeh</i> is a professional singer, and dancing is neither her + profession nor practice; the <i>ghawazee</i> dance, but do not sing. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0234" id="linkimage-0234"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0584.jpg" alt="0584 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0584.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">570</span><a name="link570" id="link570"></a>The + dragoman had arranged the whole affair, and early in the evening we left + the landing-place and travelled the somewhat rough road to Keneh. There + were fourteen of us, and there were six nationalities represented in the + auditory, or rather <i>viditory</i>, as we had come to see rather than to + hear. + </p> + <p> + Under the guidance of the dragoman we went to an obscure house in a narrow + street, and were shown up a flight of somewhat rickety stairs, and into a + room that was anything but palatial. + </p> + <p> + There were divans on three sides of the room, and on these we were seated; + the dancers and the musicians occupied the floor in the centre, and as + soon as we were seated, the performance began. The music consisted of a + couple of drums, shaped like a squash, with the large end cut off and + covered with a piece of drum-leather, and of a sort of violin or guitar, + and a kind of reed flute. There was also a tambourine, but it had less + prominence than the drums, which were the real <i>pieces de resistance</i>. + The drums were beaten with the fingers in rather a slow measure; the music + was of a melancholy, barbaric character, and consisted mainly of time + without much melody. Some of the musicians were men, I think only two of + them, but as they were all squatted on the floor, and there was a general + similarity of dress, it was hard to distinguish the sexes. + </p> + <p> + The dancing girls wore white dresses that flowed down to the heels and + were very short in the waist On the upper part of the body is a jacket, + cut very short, and frequently separated an inch or two from the dress + below it. The jacket is sometimes richly embroidered, and I saw several + dresses that were rather regal in appearance. + </p> + <p> + The head-dress consists of the natural hair braided in ringlets, and where + this is small in quantity it is supplemented with store hair, as our own + belles supplement theirs. In either case there is a liberal decoration of + small coins and pendants braided into the hair or attached to it, and the + display of jewelry is generally quite profuse. + </p> + <p> + The drums which were all the time kept in operation, was quite unlike + anything in the ballet as seen in Europe or America. There was none of the + dancing of the kind for which Fanny Ellsler and Taglioni are famous, and + from an occidental point of view it was rather disappointing as a dance. + But the strangeness of the scene, in many of its features, made up for the + absence of saltatorial activity. Certainly the dance was a new <span + class="pagenum">571</span><a name="link571" id="link571"></a>The musicians + struck up, and the girls—six in number—took their positions in + a circle. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0235" id="linkimage-0235"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0586.jpg" alt="0586 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0586.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + At the sound of the music they began to move about the room with a sort of + gliding motion, accompanied by a curious wriggle of the body at the hips, + while all the rest of it remained still. It was a motion from side to side + performed quite rapidly, and with due deference to the sound of <span + class="pagenum">572</span><a name="link572" id="link572"></a>one to us, + and the dancers were of a type unknown in America. Their dress was + strange, and stranger still were the musicians squatted on the floor and + keeping time with that monotonous barbaric sound. + </p> + <p> + Two or three Arabs were peering in at the door, the room was wholly Arabic + in character, and the only occidental suggestion was the party of + spectators squatting or sitting on the divans. There was a dim light from + half a dozen candles, and outside a small fire occasionally sent up a + weird flash. The scene was a fine one for an artist. + </p> + <p> + For a quarter of an hour the dance went on, and gradually the movements + became more and more excited. Then there was a pause and then a + re-commencement, and then another pause at which the ladies retired for a + few moments while we took a fresh filling to our pipes or lighted fresh + cigars. When the dancing girls returned they were in a much lighter + costume than the preceding one, a costume that permitted one to see the + full development of the form, as it did away entirely with the long dress + and with other garments that hindered the movements. I doubt if the + manager of any theatre ever dared to go quite as far in dressing or + undressing his ballet troupe as did the manager of the Ghawazee at Keneh. + With the exception of their head dresses of false hair and jingling coins, + and their necklaces and rings, the whole half dozen of girls didn’t + have clothes enough about them to fill a snuff box. You could have sent + their entire lot of garments by mail with a single postage stamp. + </p> + <p> + Immediately on their re-appearance the music re-commenced, and this time + with a more vigorous measure, so that the scene became enlivening. + </p> + <p> + This time the movements of the dancers were more free, and they whirled + about in a narrow space with such rapidity that there was quite a maze of + the performers. There was a repetition of the gliding, whirling, and + twisting motions combined, and sometimes they were all performed together. + We looked on attentively for half an hour, and now and then as the air was + getting stifling from the occupancy of a small room by so many persons we + called for an adjournment and went out into the light of the moon. <span + class="pagenum">573</span><a name="link573" id="link573"></a>As we passed + by the German consulate we heard the sound of music, and one of the + Germans of our party led the way inside-The consuls of France and Germany + are brothers and their consulates are in one building; during the + Franco-German war the consul for Germany was also consul for France, and + is supposed to have performed his duty impartially, especially as there is + very little duty for him to perform. + </p> + <p> + The place into which we were ushered was a large hall, and the same sort + of dance given in honor of some German visitors was going on. The girls + were more richly dressed than at the performance we had just witnessed, + and the room being much larger they had more space for their movements. + The musicians were more numerous, and as there was a better light in the + room the scene was brighter. But the spectators were sitting on chairs + instead of divans and the host was dressed <i>a la</i> European, with the + exception of the everlasting fez which covered his head. + </p> + <p> + Altogether the scene was much less Oriental, and it lacked the careless + abandon that had made one of the attractions of the dance at the home of + the <i>Ghawazee</i>. So after a short stay we thanked our host, the + Consul, and returned to the boat. + </p> + <p> + Many travellers have praised the beauty of the dancing girls, and several + artists of note, among the Germans, have visited Egypt to paint them. I + had formed such a picture of their beauty that I was rather disappointed + at the reality. Of the six that danced before us two were positively + ill-looking, and two others, though not uncomely in features, had grown + rather too fat to be attractive. The other two were pretty and well + formed, and had the others been like them, or had we seen only these two + we might have shared the feelings of many who have gone before us. + </p> + <p> + Of the two beauties one was a pure blooded Arab, and the other evidently + of mixed blood Arab with a streak, and a broad streak too, of Nubian. + Their forms were exquisite and would have filled the eye of the sculptor + of the Greek Slave. Their limbs were full and rounded, and every muscle so + far as we could see was of the proper development. Their eyes were full + and liquid in their tenderness, and the long lashes set them out like a + lustrous frame. The dark skin was smooth and the necks were flung from + side to side in a shower of ebony spray as its wearers glided and swung + around the apartment, where we looked upon them. Fortunate indeed had we + been had these been the only dancing girls to meet our eyes at Keneh. + </p> + <p> + Everywhere through Egypt water is filtered in large jars, some of them + holding nearly a barrel, and it is carried on the heads of + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">575</span><a name="link575" id="link575"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0236" id="linkimage-0236"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0590.jpg" alt="0590 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0590.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">574</span><a name="link574" id="link574"></a>rently + soft as velvet, and had a freshness that not all the paint and powder of + the French toilet can imitate. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0237" id="linkimage-0237"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0589.jpg" alt="0589 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0589.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + A pleasant smile played constantly around the mouth and eyes and seemed to + run from the one to the other, the luxuriant hair decked with golden + ornaments fell in copious folds around the plump and well-formed lin <span + class="pagenum">577</span><a name="link577" id="link577"></a>women in + lesser jars that contain from four to six gallons. It is brought to the + table in bottles holding a quart or more, and whenever and wherever you + call for water it is served in these bottles and never in a pitcher. + </p> + <p> + The filtering jars and the drinking bottles come from Keneh, or rather the + most of them do, and the large jars come from Balias, a town a few miles + above. They are made of a peculiar clay which is mixed with the ashes of + <i>halfa</i> grass and turned on an ordinary potter’s wheel. They + are dried in the sun, and when complete require a little soaking to remove + the taste of the earth. They are very porous, water passes easily through + them, and when placed in the open air the transformation and constant + evaporation that follows keep the contents very cool. + </p> + <p> + We met many rafts of these <i>ballasee</i> on their way down the river, + and some large ones were tied to the bank at Keneh. The men in charge of + the rafts are obliged to remove the water from the half immersed jars + every few hours to prevent their absorption of enough to sink them. The + same kind of drinking bottle can be found in Spain and in Mexico, and also + in some of the South American countries. They are used all through Egypt, + and their manufacture employs a considerable number of persons. The man + who introduces them in the Mississippi valley will confer a boon upon the + inhabitants of that region. + </p> + <p> + An hour’s ride from the river on the side opposite Keneh is the + temple of Denderah. + </p> + <p> + Compared with the other temples of Egypt, this one is modern as it was + built less than two thousand years ago, at the time the Romans held + possession of the country. Egyptian sculpture had long been on the decline + and the figures are far less graceful than those of a much older period, + but the architecture retained its grandeur, and one cannot admire too much + the magnificent proportions of the halls and columns of Denderah, + especially in the grand portico and in some of the inner apartments. + </p> + <p> + The temple is the best preserved that has yet been discovered; its walls + and columns are all in place and the roof is almost entire, so that it + presents the best specimen of a complete temple. It contains a zodiac + which was the subject of much controversy on account of its supposed + antiquity, but a careful reading of <span class="pagenum">578</span><a + name="link578" id="link578"></a>some of the surrounding inscriptions has + exploded the theory that the ancient Egyptians were the authors of the + zodiac. + </p> + <p> + On the side wall of the temple is a portrait of Cleopatra, which is + interesting for the reason that it is cotemporaneous with the existence of + that estimable but warm blooded lady, whose habits were not such as to + make her a model for the guidance of young women of the present day. We + looked at the portrait for the beauty for which she was renowned but could + not find it though we all admitted that her face was not unhandsome. Her + figure does not possess the grace of her Greek portraits, and altogether + the picture was a disappointment. + </p> + <p> + On several places on the walls of the temple there are sculptures + representing the asp, the serpent which was once worshipped as a divinity. + Asp-headed gods were frequent among the Egyptian sculptures, and their + worship extended over a long period. And it was by one of these serpents + that Cleopatra, of whom we have just been speaking, was stung to death. + The event is recorded in a pathetic poem which begins thus: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “She took a nasty, pison snake, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + And hid it in her gown, + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + It gave its little tail a shake + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + And did its job up brown. + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + She went into her little bed, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + In dreadful agony; + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + Then tore her chignon from her head, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + And followed Antony.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + Denderah was a big thing for the Professor as he was able to buy there an + abundance of coins. He bought a lot of them, about a quart altogether, for + a couple of francs; they were covered with rust, mould, and verdigris, but + they were coins and he paid little more than what they were worth as old + copper. He was a good deal of a coin-sharp and understood their value, and + when he looked them over on the boat he was so happy that he wanted to go + back again to buy more. He said he wouldn’t take five hundred, no, + not a thousand francs for the lot, and he was ready to dance with joy. And + I add this by way of foot note, that when we returned to Cairo he had the + coins cleaned and examined by a numismatist. Every coin was pronounced + genuine and some were of silver. Most of them were of a kind + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">579</span><a name="link579" id="link579"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0238" id="linkimage-0238"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0594.jpg" alt="0594 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0594.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">581</span><a name="link581" id="link581"></a>that is + abundant and consequently they had not much value, but there were several + very rare specimens. One in particular was so rare that only one like it + was known to exist in Egypt, and it was worth any sum of money that a + seller would ask and a buyer would give. + </p> + <p> + He was sure they were genuine, and he scouted the notion that they were + fabrications for the reason that he had paid less than it would cost to + fabricate them. These coins were found around Denderah, and we saw the + natives digging in the rubbish in several places in search of them. + Occasionally a native makes a good find, but he never knows its value, and + will sell his prize cheaply. A coin collector who knows his business would + do well to make the voyage of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + We had half a day’s steaming from Keneh to Luxor, and turned some + pretty bends in the river where the scenery was quite picturesque. We + passed several <i>dahabeeahs</i> on their way up stream and greeted them + with our steam whistle and by dipping our flag to which they responded by + dipping theirs. Every dahabeeah carries a flag showing the nationality of + the parties on board; this is an inflexible rule, and a very good one, and + often leads to friendly acquaintance among persons of similar + nationalties. The steamboat saluted every <i>dahabeeahs</i>; she was not + proud because she was a steamboat, and we were glad to perceive that the + others were not proud because they were <i>dahabeeahs</i>. + </p> + <p> + In this part of the river we observed a great number of pigeons flying + around; these birds abound all along the Nile but are specially numerous + in this locality. The pigeon houses are built over the dwellings and are + two or three stories high; they have a likeness to the battlements of old + castles, as they are narrower at top than at bottom, and the entrances for + the birds have a strong resemblance to port holes. Branches of trees are + put near the holes to assist the birds in alighting, and they give rather + a curious appearance to the houses. Hundreds of these pigeons can be seen + in the air at once, and sometimes the flocks are very large. The birds are + kept for the sake of their manure; pigeon dung is the only kind of manure + used on the fields in Egypt, and it is quite an article of commerce. + </p> + <p> + In Cairo a great many pigeons are kept on the roofs of houses; <span + class="pagenum">582</span><a name="link582" id="link582"></a>they fly + around and pick up their food where they can find it, and their owners + make a very fair revenue from the sale of the manure as well as from that + of the birds. Mohammedans do not eat them but the large number of + Christians in Egypt ensures a good market. The hotels have them very often + in their bills of fare. + </p> + <p> + It was about noon when we reached Luxor and tied up to the bank in front + of the American Consulate. There was a crowd of donkey-boys, guides, and + miscellaneous citizens to meet us, and as soon as we were on shore they + surrounded us at once. + </p> + <p> + The Professor was happy as he found plenty of old coins, but he did not + find them as cheap as at Denderah. The most numerous speculators were the + dealers in antiquities, such as fragments of mummies, pieces of coffins, + scarabées, and bits of marble and other stones cut into the shape of + ancient statues. + </p> + <p> + They have an odd way of offering their stuff to you; without saying a word + they come up and hold out the thing they have for sale, and sometimes if + it is a skull they hold it disagreeably near to your face. Ask the price + and then make an offer, and be sure to make the offer small enough. They + refuse and turn away; in a few minutes they come up again with the same + thing and offer it in the same manner as if they do not know you have seen + it before Refuse and refuse again; they depart, or at all events put their + things in their pockets at each refusal, but they return again in a few + minutes. + </p> + <p> + There was one man with a string of scarabees and another with a miniature + bust of one of the old kings that I think offered their wares as often as + once in five minutes during all the time I was accessible to them. They do + not talk under such circumstances unless you talk first; they glide + silently in front of you, and then hold up what they have to sell, as + though endeavoring to secure your admiration. + </p> + <p> + The articles mostly dealt in are scarabee,—those imitations in hard + stone of the Egyptian beetle that are found in many of the mummy coffins. + Some of them make pretty finger rings, and I have one that makes a capital + seal, as it bears the signet of one of the kings of the XIXth Dynasty. + They are of all sizes, from the small stones placed on the finger of a + mummy or strung into <span class="pagenum">583</span><a name="link583" + id="link583"></a>necklaces, up to some as large as a goose egg, and even + much larger. Some of these large ones are simply marvellous. They are of + very hard stone,—porphyry, feldspar, basalt, serpentine, carnelian, + and the like, and are covered on the under side with finely cut + hieroglyphics, generally passages from the Ritual of the Dead. + </p> + <p> + There is one in the museum at Cairo that I would walk twenty-three miles + to own. It is about as large over as a two-cent piece, and the back is cut + as neatly as that of the beetle it imitated, while the under side is + covered with fine hieroglyphics. And the stone is green feldspar, one of + the hardest things in the world for cutting, and how they managed to + finish it so beautifully is a mystery. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs at Luxor have a liberal supply of these scarabees but they are + nearly all modern imitations. They have some genuine ones for which they + ask a high price, but it sometimes happens that a really good one is sold + for a trifle. They declare that every-thing they have is “<i>antika</i>” + and ask proportionate prices, but you are not expected to offer anywhere + near the sum demanded. + </p> + <p> + When a man exhibited something that I thought I would buy, I asked his + price. If he said two pounds, I might offer sixpence, and very often they + would come down to one or two shillings for something that they originally + asked two pounds for. I bought a scarabee for a franc that was offered to + me for thirty francs, and one of my friends paid two francs for something + for which one hundred and fifty francs was the first price. + </p> + <p> + In other countries an article is supposed to be worth somewhere near the + price put upon it, but any such rule is erroneous in Egypt. I have no + hesitation in offering a silver piastre, (five cents,) for a scarabee + whose holder demands two pounds; in New York or London a similar offer + would be an insult, but in Luxor it is not so regarded. + </p> + <p> + A great many people are foolish enough to buy these antiquities at the + prices demanded, and the Arabs in this business are able to make a good + living. They are reputed to make many of the articles, and I was told that + others are made in Cairo, and others in Birmingham—like the famous + Waterloo relics. One fellow was pointed out as the owner of a <i>fabrique + d’ antiquities</i> <span class="pagenum">584</span><a name="link584" + id="link584"></a>and we asked him to show us his shop. He denied having + any factory, and then we offered him five francs, ten francs, a napoleon + if he would show us through it. He finally grew indignant and said: + </p> + <p> + “No, no, no; not for ten napoleons will I let you see it.” + </p> + <p> + The fabrications are very skillful, and even the experts are sometimes + deceived by them. The safest parties to deal with are the Consuls; they + are all merchants of antiquities, but even they are not always to be + relied upon, as they have families to support and human nature is weak. + What wonder if a consul who has to maintain dignity and an office, should + take advantage of circumstances and drive a sharp transaction whenever he + finds a rich flat. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0239" id="linkimage-0239"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5599.jpg" alt="5599 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5599.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">585</span><a name="link585" id="link585"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0240" id="linkimage-0240"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0600.jpg" alt="0600 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0600.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0046" id="link2HCH0046"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVI—LUXOR, THE CITY OF GIANTS.—AMONG THE MUMMIES OF + ANCIENT THEBES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Luxor on the Site of Ancient Thebes—A City with a Hundred Gates—Enjoying + a Consul’s Hospitality—An American Citizen of African Descent—A + Dignified Rhinoceros—Karnak—A City of Wonders—Promenading + in an Avenue of Sphinxes—A Gigantic Temple—Monster Obelisks—A + Story in Stone—A Statue Weighing Nine Hundred Tons—The Sitting + Colossi—A Singing Statue—Mysteries of Priestcraft—Lunching + in the Tomb of Rameses—A Wonderful Treasure—How They Made + Mummies—A Curious Process—The “Doubter” and the + Mummy Sellers—The Judge Comes to Grief.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">L</span>UXOR is now an + insignificant town of four thousand inhabitants, occupying the site, or a + small portion of it, of the ancient city of Thebes, from whose hundred + gates twenty thousand armed chariots could be sent to the battle-field. + What a’ melancholy decline from the days of Thotmes and Rameses to + the present! + </p> + <p> + A crowd of dirty Arabs, and a collection of hovels, with here and there a + house having some pretence of respectability and comfort are the Thebes of + to-day. Were it not for the ruins that lie around us we should have only + to write “Thebes was,” and the story of to-day would be + complete. But the city which fills bright pages in the history of Egypt + was too great and glorious in her time, and the monuments she built were + too stupendous to be easily removed. So grand were her temples that the + work of destruction was an enormous one, what then must have been the + labors of erection! <span class="pagenum">586</span><a name="link586" + id="link586"></a>In the present town of Luxor there is little to be seen + beyond the temple which is now greatly fallen and of which much of the + sculptures lie buried. There is no effort made to remove the rubbish that + lies around the walls and upon all the floors; in one part the English + Consul has his office, and in others the Arabs have built their mud hovels + among the columns and against the sculptured walls. The magnificence + around them has not served in any way to elevate the thoughts of these + natives; they live in a superabundance of dirt, and the contemplation of + the works of art ever in their sight has been no more to them than to + their chickens or donkeys. They regard the ruins solely as a source of + profit, and they persistently beg from strangers who come to visit Thebes. + Most of the Arabs believe that the strangers who come here are pagans, and + that they make pilgrimages to Thebes, Denderah, and Esneh, just as good + Moslems make pilgrimages to Mecca. + </p> + <p> + We devoted an hour to calling on the consul, where we were treated to + pipes and to coffee, and were seated on the divans that filled part of the + official rooms. The American Consul is of a dark hue, something more than + a mulatto, and one of our party whose notions were formerly in sympathy + with slaveholding, was rather disinclined to accept the hospitality of a + gentleman of African descent. But we pacified him by the information that + we were in Africa and approaching the region where white men were at a + discount, and with this view of the case he subsided and smoked his pipe + in silence. + </p> + <p> + The “Doubter” was rude as he always was when among gentlemanly + natives, and as he had not the vice of smoking he wondered what we were + staying for. The Judge reproved him for his incivility, and for a minute + or two there was a fair prospect that the consul would be able to collect + a fee for suppressing a row in his own office. During the turmoil the + Professor and I slipped out and called upon the German Consul, who was as + dignified as a rhinoceros in a menagerie. He speaks hardly anything but + Arabic, and knows of only one man—Bismarck—in Germany and of + only one city—Berlin. The Professor passed as a resident of Berlin + and a relative of Bismarck, and with this view of the case he was most + cordially received. The American + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">587</span><a name="link587" id="link587"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0241" id="linkimage-0241"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0602.jpg" alt="0602 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0602.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">589</span><a name="link589" id="link589"></a>Consul + speaks English quite fairly. The vice-consulate was formerly held by + Mustapha Agar, who is also English Vice-Consul, and his removal has soured + him somewhat so that he is not over-polite to Americans. He is the oldest + consul at Luxor, and one of the oldest residents, and has grown wealthy in + the service of other countries than his own. He has been so often petted + by travellers and praised by authors who have been here, that he has + become spoiled, and has the pomposity of a turkey-cock. He deals in + scarabees, mummies, coins—everything that you like,—and he + showed us as did the other consuls, quite a collection of antiquities. + They can furnish you with the head of a king or the foot of a princess at + short order, and as for old coins the Professor found enough at Luxor to + set up a museum of numismatics. + </p> + <p> + We hired donkeys and went to Karnak—something more than a mile from + Luxor—and we went not only once but three times. + </p> + <p> + Karnak is more than marvellous; to do justice to it one requires to have a + dozen or so superlative words specially invented for the place. You remain + silent in contemplating it as you find that you have no word to express + your feelings; you are sensible that to speak of it in ordinary terms + would be like the cockney’s expression of “neat” applied + to Niagara, and though I am intending to make the attempt I am satisfied + that I shall fall far short of portraying the full grandeur of the scene + to the reader. + </p> + <p> + As you approach the temple you enter an avenue of ramheaded sphinxes (huge + fellows carved in stone), on opposite sides of the avenue. Formerly this + street extended all the way to Luxor—six thousand feet away. What a + splendid promenade it must have been! Only a few of the sphinxes are here + now, and of those every one has been more or less mutilated. Passing the + avenue you reach a pronaos, or pylon,—a gateway with two enormous + towers large enough of themselves to make a temple. There were no less + than six of these entrances. Just to give an idea of their size I will + give the dimensions of one of the peristyles. Its total length is three + hundred and seventy feet, its depth is fifty feet, and its height one + hundred and forty feet. The temple faces the river, and the towers can be + seen from a long distance. One of these fronting the river is partly + fallen, but the other is nearly perfect. <span class="pagenum">590</span><a + name="link590" id="link590"></a>A detailed description of the temple at + Karnak would be dry reading, and I will simply state that from end to end + the length is eleven hundred and eighty feet, and that it is about six + hundred feet in breadth. The whole was surrounded by a wall twenty-five + feet thick and from sixty to a hundred feet high. All this space inclosed + by the wall is filled with ruins of an architecture of the most + magnificent character. In one place there are the fragments of a fallen + obelisk, and close by it is a standing obelisk ninety-two feet high and + eight feet square at the base, the largest obelisk now known. There is + another, seventy-five feet high, a little from it, and there is another + obelisk standing at Luxor, the mate of it having been removed to Paris. + The French government removed the Luxor obelisk only after many attempts + and failures. The obelisk at Karnak—the great one—was given to + the English government, but they never attempted to take it away. + </p> + <p> + How did the Egyptians manage to move these masses of stone from the + quarries at Assouan, and to put them in place? I give it up. + </p> + <p> + Do you know where is the most stupendous hall in the world? It is in the + temple at Karnak. It is three hundred and twenty-nine feet long and one + hundred and seventy feet broad; it has down its centre, twelve columns, + each sixty feet high (without counting capital and pedestal), and twelve + feet in diameter. Then besides these there are one hundred and twenty-two + other columns (arranged in fourteen rows, seven on each side of the + central rows), forty-two feet high and nine feet in diameter. Thus there + are one hundred and thirty-four columns in this great hall, and all of + them are covered with sculptures. There was once a roof over the hall, but + it is mostly gone now, and some of the columns have fallen. Seven of us, + with our outstretched hands touching each other, were just able to + encircle one of the great columns. Compared with this hall of the temple, + the Parthenon at Athens becomes of dwarfish size. All around are stones of + great size that once formed parts of the temple; everything around is so + great that the stones do not appear large till you stand close beside + them, and then you realize their extent and your littleness. <span + class="pagenum">591</span><a name="link591" id="link591"></a>As at Abydos + and Denderah the walls of the temple, the faces of the pylons, the + columns, the pillars, the sides of the encircling wall, everything and + everywhere, were covered with sculptures. The most of the sculptures were + battle scenes, but there were many that represented offerings to the + deities. In the historical pictures the campaigns of the kings were + represented, and one who has time and patience to study them can read the + story of a campaign. Here the king is marching out with his army, and next + he is attacking a fortress; next he is routing the enemy and driving them + across a river; next he is returning in triumph, and there is a long + series of the cities he passes through on his return. + </p> + <p> + On the front wall of a tower of a pylon, the king is represented striking + off the heads of a group of captives, and these representations are so + frequent as to make it pretty certain that the Egyptians were accustomed + to offer human sacrifices. The hands, and sometimes other portions of the + bodies of the slain enemies, are cut off and piled before the king; and + some of the pictures are of a kind that could hardly be reproduced in a + family album of the present time. The king is nearly always represented of + much greater stature than those that surround him, and the Egyptians were + generally so doubtful of the faces of their rulers reaching posterity, + that they were careful to engrave their names on most of the pictures and + to detail the incidents described. + </p> + <p> + This temple was not the work of one but of several kings, and there is a + chronological difference of two hundred and fifty years between the + earliest and latest sculptures. There is much dispute as to the antiquity + of the edifice, but it is generally conceded to have been completed not + less than fifteen centuries before the Christian era. + </p> + <p> + One of our visits was made by moonlight, and the effect of light and + shade, especially in the great hall, was beautiful beyond description, and + therefore I forbear attempting to describe it We disturbed several jackals + and bats, the only occupants of the ruins. + </p> + <p> + There is an Arab village close to the temple, but it does not extend into + the great structure. The water of the Nile enters <span class="pagenum">592</span><a + name="link592" id="link592"></a>the ruins at the time of the inundation, + and is eating away the base of the columns, so that several have fallen + from its effects. The Egyptian architects, while producing magnificent + superstructures, were curiously negligent of the foundations. + </p> + <p> + On the west bank of the Nile are several temples, the most prominent of + them being the Memnonium or Rameseum, and Med in et Aboo. + </p> + <p> + Both were on the same general plan of Egyptian temples, and second only to + Karnak in greatness; there are other temples around here—half a + dozen or more—and each has its peculiar historical and religious + sculptures covering the walls. + </p> + <p> + In the court yard of the Rameseum is an overturned and broken statue of + Rameses III, the builder of the temple. It was destroyed by the Persians + at the time of the invasion of Egypt, but they did not succeed in + obliterating it. The figure was a sitting one like many of the statues of + Egypt. The throne and legs were reduced to comparatively small fragments, + but the upper part, broken at the waist, lies comparatively perfect and + enables us to judge of the great size of the figure. It is not sufficient + to say that it was the largest statue ever hewn from a single block and + transported two or three hundred miles. It is calculated to have weighed + (when entire) not far from nine hundred tons. It was nearly twenty feet + across the shoulders of the statue, and the foot of the figure was eleven + feet from toe to heel. From the shoulder to the elbow was nearly five + yards, and the other measurements were in proportion. + </p> + <p> + On the plain toward the river and quite a distance in front of the + Rameseum are the sitting Colossi. They were made to represent one of the + Kings, and one at least was cut from a single block. The height of the + figures is about fifty feet, and they originally had pedestals ten feet + high. The soil has risen considerably since their erection and is now + about seven feet above their base. + </p> + <p> + There they sit as they have sat for centuries looking out upon the plain + of Thebes and across the Nile to Luxor. What stories they might tell were + they possessed of memory and the power of articulation; more than thirty + centuries of the world’s history rest behind those stony lips; more + than three thousand years have come and gone since first <span + class="pagenum">593</span><a name="link593" id="link593"></a>these forms + were fashioned. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0242" id="linkimage-0242"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0608.jpg" alt="0608 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0608.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + History and tradition say that sounds issued from it when the rays of the + rising sun fell upon its face; one authority says these sounds were + musical, and others that they resembled the snapping of a bow-string or a + blow upon a piece of metal. The statue was very fastidious in its youth, + and many times when distinguished persons came <span class="pagenum">595</span><a + name="link595" id="link595"></a>hands of man and placed where we find them + to-day. The city they once adorned has crumbled to dust and disappeared, + and they sit alone and uncared for, save when some passing stranger drawn + by curiosity comes and gazes irreverently upon them and glances at the + ground they have watched and guarded so long. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0243" id="linkimage-0243"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0610.jpg" alt="0610 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0610.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + One of these statues is the famous Vocal Memnon which orators and poets + have frequently drawn upon for illustrations and <span class="pagenum">596</span><a + name="link596" id="link596"></a>from distant lands to see it, not a sound + could be heard from it. Sometimes when Grand Moguls like the Emperor + Hadrian and other heavy swells came along it was more complaisant, and + ventured to let itself out, and on a few occasions it even sounded twice, + a circumstance which ought to have been regarded with more suspicion than + the absence of a date to Mr. Pickwick’s note announcing his + non-return to dinner. + </p> + <p> + There can be but little doubt that the sound was a trick of the priests, + as there is a stone in the lap of the statue and behind it is a niche + where a person could be completely concealed from the view of the crowd + below. + </p> + <p> + We hired an Arab to climb up and strike the stone, and we had the + performance not only once but half a dozen times, all for half a franc for + the entire party, or less than a third of a cent each. Some things are + dearer now than in the olden time, but the Memnon business is cheaper. Two + thousand years ago you had to be there at sunrise and sometimes you had to + go two or three days in succession, before you heard the sound, as the + priest who struck the stone would happen to be off on a drunk or + neglecting his business. But now a little “backsheesh” will + settle the matter at any hour of the day and it would keep on a week if + you were willing to pay for the fun. + </p> + <p> + We spent a day among the tombs of the Kings, which are in a valley four or + five miles back from the river; there are lots of tombs there, fifty or + more, some of them being the burial places of the kings, and others those + of queens, of priests, of common people, and even of cats, dogs, ibises, + crocodiles, and other beasts, birds, and reptiles. + </p> + <p> + I have said fifty, I might better have said there are four times that + number as nobody seems to know how many tombs there are in the hills back + of Thebes, and every one admits they are very extensive. + </p> + <p> + The most interesting are the tombs of the Kings, and also those of the + priests; we entered half a dozen of the first and one of the latter and + made as thorough an investigation as was possible. Some were discovered by + Bruce and some by Belzoni, and some by more modern explorers. Every few + years a fresh tomb is opened and important revelations are made. Any + person who <span class="pagenum">597</span><a name="link597" id="link597"></a>wishes + to dig among these tombs can obtain the permission of the proper + authorities and an officer will be sent to superintend his work and see + that he gives a proper account of the treasures he finds. Most of the + tombs that have been opened have been stripped of their contents and + nothing remains except the mural sculptures and paintings. Some of these + are of a most exquisite character and show that the Egyptians were well + advanced in the art of drawing. The tombs consist of long passages cut + into the rock, some of them horizontal; some descending and some with one, + two, or it may be half a dozen lateral chambers and apartments. Passages, + halls, and chambers are all decorated with the same profusion as are the + temples, and in some of them the colors are laid on with great care. + Egyptian life and its manners and customs, the arms and implements in use, + the employments of the people, their religious belief, the ceremonies of + burial, and many other things can be learned by a study of these tombs, + and they have probably been more useful in this respect than have the + temples, which are generally devoted to religious subjects and incidents + in the life of the King whom they commemorate. + </p> + <p> + We lighted them up with candles and magnesium wire; we wandered through + the halls and chambers, and we took lunch one day in the entrance of a + tomb which was once the post-mortem house of Rameses III. Did the old + fellow ever suspect that a party of travellers would in the present + century devour cold chicken and ham sandwiches, and smoke cigars and pipes + and cigarettes at his door? + </p> + <p> + Most of the tombs that have been opened have been found rifled of their + valuables, and the modern explorer has to be contented with the granite + coffins, and is very fortunate if he can find a royal mummy. M. Mariette + discovered and opened in 1859 the coffin of Queen Aah Hotep, which + contained a remarkable collection of jewelry. + </p> + <p> + She is thought to have been one of the Queens of the XVIIIth Dynasty, and + to have lived about thirty-five hundred years ago. There were bracelets + and other ornaments of lapis lazuli, carnelian, feldspar, and turquoise + set in gold, and there was a gold chain nearly a yard long and framed of + fine wire intricately woven. <span class="pagenum">598</span><a + name="link598" id="link598"></a>The collection was in the Paris exhibition + of ‘67, where it took the prize. The French jewellers said it would + be difficult for them with all their skill to mend this chain if it were + broken, and they admitted that the goldsmith’s art in the days of + Queen Aah Hotep was little inferior to that of to-day. + </p> + <p> + The body of an Egyptian was prepared for burial by the removal of the + brains, intestines, and viscera generally; it was then soaked in nitre for + seventy days, and afterwards filled with salt and aromatic herbs. It was + then carefully bandaged, every finger and toe being separately wrapped, + and there is not a bandage known to modern surgery with which the + Egyptians were not familiar. The bandages were soaked in preservative gums + and the body thus carefully prepared was placed in a wooden coffin, shaped + to the body, and covered with hieroglyphics, which were generally passages + from the Book of the Dead. Then this was placed in a stone coffin, this + again in a larger one, and sometimes the whole was enclosed in another. + The number of the coffins and the care of preparations depended upon the + rank and wealth of the deceased very much as do the funeral ceremonies of + today. The jewels of the deceased were enclosed with him, and this + practice has led to the opening of so many tombs since the decline of the + ancient Empire. + </p> + <p> + You can buy whole mummies, or parts of them, of the Arabs, around Thebes, + but they are all the remains of common people. The supply of Kings was + limited from the outset and has long been exhausted. The demand is far + greater than the supply. I asked repeatedly for a king or for a live + mummy, but in every instance was told that I could not be gratified I + would give a good deal for a genuine monarch, and was in the market for + one all the time I was at Luxor, but in vain. + </p> + <p> + All the way back to the river the Arabs kept near us trying to sell + antiquities, but we were not inclined to purchase. One fellow had a mummy + head that had a remarkably fresh look, and I was told by the dragoman that + when the supply of mummies runs short, the natives dig up the skulls and + arms from their own cemeteries and offer them for sale. I accused this + merchant of endeavoring to dispose of the head of his grandfather, but he + denied the imputation, and said it was a real mummy. I promised <span + class="pagenum">599</span><a name="link599" id="link599"></a>him a piastre + if he would walk by the side of the “Doubter” and continue to + offer the head to him all the way back to the river, and to assist the + offer by holding the skull in front of the old fellow’s face. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0244" id="linkimage-0244"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8614.jpg" alt="8614 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8614.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He earned his money, and the “Doubter” afterward said that he + never saw an Arab so persistent as that one. I was sorry that we could not + hire the native to go along with us and keep his bone-yard ever in view of + our crusty and penurious companion. + </p> + <p> + The road from the tombs to the river winds among the limestone hills, and + in the middle of the day the heat is great. Rain falls here very rarely, + but there are indications of great torrents through these ravines at some + remote day. + </p> + <p> + Rain was evidently not unknown to the ancients, as the temples of Denderah + and other places were supplied with water spouts to carry off the showers + that evidently fell there. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the river in a small boat. The water is shallow at the shore on + the western bank and we had to be carried to and from the boat. The Arabs + transported us with ease, and were rewarded very fairly for their work, + but of course they wanted more. Some of them handled their burdens very + carefully, and others tumbled them in with little ceremony. The Judge came + in over the side much like a sack of wheat, and went into a lump at the + bottom of the boat. He was rather disconcerted at the performance as it + rended his already dilapidated garments and caused him to seek the + seclusion of his own room as soon as we were on board the steamer. Another + of the party was dropped into the water but was saved without any worse + mishap than a good wetting and a provocation to profanity. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">600</span><a name="link600" id="link600"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0245" id="linkimage-0245"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0615.jpg" alt="0615 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0615.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0047" id="link2HCH0047"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVII—A VISIT TO A HAREM IN UPPER EGYPT.—LIFE AMONG + THE NUBIANS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>A Visit to a Harem—Among the Daughters of the Nile—How they + Looked and What was Done—Painted Eyelids—The Use of Henna—A + Minute Inspection of Garments—Mustapha Agar “At Home”—Arab + Astonishment—A Dinner a l’Arabe—Fingers vs. Forks—An + Array of Queer Dishes—Novel Refreshment—Dancing Girls—Truck + and Decker at Luxor—More “Ghawazee,” Pipes and Coffee—“A + Love of a Donkey”—Song of Arabs—Arab Cruelty—A + Nation of Stoics—Endurance of Pain—Among the Nubians—Ostriches, + Arrows and Battle Axes—A Nubian Dress—A Very Small Dressmaker’s + Bill—A Scanty Wardrobe.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE ladies of the + party did not accompany us to the Tombs of the Kings, as the day was hot + and the ride a long one. Besides, they had what was more attractive to + them, an invitation to visit the harem of the English Consul. + </p> + <p> + I volunteered to accompany them, but my escort was declined, for the + reason that gentlemen were not admitted any more than they were to the + studios of some of the fortune-tellers of New York. When we returned to + the boat, they were in great glee, and it was not long before we had all + the details, or at any rate, all that they chose to give us. We hardly + recognized them, as their eyelids had been stained with henna, after the + Arabic manner, giving a great prominence and lustre to the eye. The result + is the same as that obtained by actresses and others, who apply red paint + around the eyes and not upon the lids. + </p> + <p> + I will try to give the story as nearly as possible, in the words <span + class="pagenum">601</span><a name="link601" id="link601"></a> of One of + the Fair Visitors. I Endeavored to Induce Her To Write It out for Me, But + She Shrunk from The Effort As Something Herculean, and All My Prayers Were + of No Avail. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0246" id="linkimage-0246"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0616.jpg" alt="0616 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0616.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">603</span><a name="link603" id="link603"></a> + </p> + <p> + “We went to the consulate,” said the narrator, “and + there we found Mustapha Agar waiting for us. We walked from there to his + house, which is quite pretty when you get inside, and has a sort of garden + on a balcony, and from this balcony we went into the harem. The consul + staid outside with Mr. ————— (the husband of + one of the visitors), and we were shown in by one of the slaves. The + consul’s son, who speaks English, went in for a few moments and + interpreted, but for the rest of the time we had to talk by signs, as the + women spoke nothing but Arabic, There were half a dozen women, some the + wives of the consul, and some the wives of his son, but we didn’t + know which were which. + </p> + <p> + “They saluted us in Arabic as we entered, and asked us to sit down + on the carpet with them, and we squatted as best we could. There were + divans at the side of the room, and a rich carpet in the centre, and we + sat on the carpet more than on the divans. The women wore the loose dress + of the Arabs and had no veils on their faces; one of them, a young girl of + fifteen or about, had a very richly-embroidered dress, much better than + that of any other, and I thought she must be the favorite of either the j + consul or his son. They began at once to examine us, to look at our faces, + our boots, our clothing, and everything, and we returned the compliment by + examining them. What most excited their curiosity was Mrs.———‘s + hair. They pinched it and looked at it in all sorts of ways, took it down, + and were not easy till they had satisfied themselves that it was natural, + and even then they kept examining it and feeling it in their fingers every + few minutes until we came away.” + </p> + <p> + I remark by way of explanation that the lady referred to was English, and + her hair was of the pure blonde type. It was of a golden hue, rich and + glossy, and was no doubt the first of its kind that these Arab women had + ever seen. I do not wonder that their curiosity was aroused. + </p> + <p> + “Before we knew what they were about, they had our heads in their + laps and were staining our eyelids; they wanted to stain <span + class="pagenum">604</span><a name="link604" id="link604"></a>our + finger-nails and tattoo our chins, but we declined. Several times they + renewed the request, but we thought it was enough to have our eyelids + stained in this way. They had their hair loose, with the exception of + bands around their heads; the young girl had a rich head-dress, with a + great many pieces of gold attached to it, and her hair was of a jet black. + They served us pipes and coffee, and were much surprised that we didn’t + smoke. We drank the coffee, and they made us take a few whiffs from the <i>narghileh</i>, + and were much amused when Mrs. ————— + swallowed some of the smoke and began to cough. + </p> + <p> + “We staid there about half an hour. When we came away they embraced + us, but did not kiss us, and they didn’t let us off until they had + taken another pinch at Mrs. —————‘s + hair. They followed us to the door and intimated by signs that they would + like to go to see us on the boat.” + </p> + <p> + The next evening a party went to dine <i>a l’Arabe</i> at the + Engglish consulate, but as a part of them were masculine they were not + admitted to the harem. The party was seated on the carpet, and the table + was about two feet high, just high enough to be comfortably reached from + the seat on the floor. Hands were washed before and after the meal, and + sometimes between the courses, the water being brought by a servant and + poured upon the hands after the Eastern manner. + </p> + <p> + There were about twenty courses in all,—soup, meats, and <i>pates</i> + of various kinds,—and all were eaten with the hands except the soup, + for which spoons were supplied. The consul presided at the table, and his + sons supervised the service, which was quite rapid. The bones were piled + on the table in front of each guest, and were afterward removed. Some of + the viands were so hot that one or two of the guests found their hands + somewhat burned. There was an abundant supply, enough for a party four + times as large, and the cooking was said to be very good. The most + prominent article was a turkey which was brought on whole, and from which + each person tore off what he wanted. There were no knives or forks at the + table, and some of the visitors made rather awkward work getting along + without them. + </p> + <p> + All ate from the same soup-dish without hesitation, and luckily <span + class="pagenum">605</span><a name="link605" id="link605"></a>they did not + have time to continue at it long. The etiquette was to take only a few + mouthfulls of each dish, and whether good or bad, the dishes were not + allowed to stay. Roasts, <i>entrees, pâtés</i>, pilaufs, succeeded each + other rapidly, and before the party was aware that the end had come, the + host gave the signal by rising and the table was removed. + </p> + <p> + After the disappearance of the festive board, there was an Oriental dance. + Four <i>gliawazee</i> with their musicians were brought into the parlor, + and the dance began at once. Pipes and coffee had been served the instant + the table disappeared, and the party took its position on the divans where + they could look on with complaisance. + </p> + <p> + The Orientals understand dancing in its true sense, and cannot comprehend + why we should caper through a waltz or a cotillion, when we can hire + somebody to do it for us. + </p> + <p> + “Why don’t you make your servants do this?” was the + wondering inquiry of a Chinese official, when invited to a ball given by + some of the English residents of Hong Kong. + </p> + <p> + The day at length arrived for our departure from Thebes, and as the boat + steamed away from the landing the crowd on shore sung a farewell chorus, + the consuls fired guns and pistols, and the whole town in fact seemed bent + on making as much noise as possible. + </p> + <p> + The market for antiquities declined rapidly before our departure, and + articles were offered at less than half the figures that ruled on the day + of our arrival. + </p> + <p> + We tied up as usual during the night, and next morning about breakfast + time we were at Esneh, a town of six or seven thousand inhabitants and + containing a temple of which only a small portion has been cleared out. + The remainder is quite covered by the houses of the modern town, and is + thought to be quite extensive. The portico, the only portion visible, is + reached by a stairway which we descended to the floor. The columns are + well preserved but the sculptures are injured somewhat, and in places are + hardly legible. + </p> + <p> + Most of the features of the gods are broken, and this is the case in a + large number of the temples of Upper Egypt. The injury is attributed to + the Persians, but a large portion of it is <span class="pagenum">606</span><a + name="link606" id="link606"></a>due to the early Christians, who sought in + their religious zeal to destroy the evidences of pagan worship. In some + temples they plastered over the sculptures, and thus unintentionally + preserved them. The plaster has been removed in modern times, and the + sculptures are found in excellent condition. + </p> + <p> + Esneh is famous, like Keneh, for its dancing girls, and there is quite a + colony of them at the southern side of the town. We visited their quarter + in the evening, and were beset by the young ladies with appeals for + “backsheesh” and invitations to visit their households and + witness a dance. + </p> + <p> + There are several cafés on the bank just above the river, and we found + quite a collection of Arabs in them. They were smoking their pipes, + sipping coffee, and singing and looking very dignified and disinclined to + move. The Arab song may be best described as a monotonous chant, + consisting of about four measures and a chorus like a prolonged “ah-ah”. + They sing everywhere, but more especially when at work together. Men + engaged in rowing or pulling a boat are constantly singing; one sings the + measure and the whole join in the chorus. The song may be on any subject, + like popular airs everywhere, and frequently are extemporized by the + singers. I was much struck with their resemblance to the songs of the + negro deck hands on the Mississippi steamers, and also to those of the + Canadian <i>voyageurs</i> on the St. Lawrence and its tributary rivers. + The boatmen of the Volga and the Dwina have also similar songs while + rowing or pulling their craft. + </p> + <p> + One of the prettiest things I saw at Esneh was, not a girl, but a donkey. + He was a beauty, and I would have given more for his photograph than for + that of any human being I saw there. His color was white, but according to + the Arab custom his hair was closely shaven. He was plump, round, and + large; his ears were perfectly erect, and his trappings were rich and + evidently selected with taste. He belonged to the governor, who was + pleased at the admiration bestowed upon his property, and stood + approvingly by while one of the artists of our party took a sketch of the + animal. I ventured to ask how much such a donkey would be worth. + </p> + <p> + “I paid twenty pounds for him,” replied the governor, “when + <span class="pagenum">607</span><a name="link607" id="link607"></a>he was + a year old. I have since refused a hundred pounds, and I should refuse two + hundred if anybody should offer it.” + </p> + <p> + Above Esneh there are several places containing the ruins of temples, of + which the most interesting is that of Edfou. Only since 1864 has it been + visible; up to that time it was covered by rubbish and the houses of the + modern village so that only the propylon tombs were visible. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0247" id="linkimage-0247"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8622.jpg" alt="8622 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8622.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The long-accumulated rubbish had helped to preserve it so, that when it + was cleared out the sculptures were found in better condition than in most + other temples. + </p> + <p> + The temple greatly resembles that of Denderah and has numerous small + chambers that were used for the storage of valuable articles used in the + sacred ceremonies. + </p> + <p> + The sanctuary contains a <i>sanctum sanctorum</i>, a large cage cut from a + single block of granite, and once enclosing the hawk I which was the + emblem of the divinity to whose worship the temple was dedicated. + </p> + <p> + That night while we lay at the landing, one of the ladies came to induce + us to perform a work of charity. She had discovered that the cooks in + preparing chickens for the table did not kill the birds until after + plucking the feathers, and sometimes a featherless chicken would get loose + and run around the bank. We went out to the place on shore where the + picking was in progress and found that her story was correct. We called + the dragoman and had him explain to the Arabs that such a custom was not + pleasing and that hereafter they must kill the chickens before picking + them. They were astonished at the suggestion, but promised compliance. + <span class="pagenum">608</span><a name="link608" id="link608"></a>The + Orientals are thoughtlessly cruel, and this arises partly from a lack of + nerves in their own organization. A Chinese will, sit in a chair or ride + in a cart that would be torture to a European, and a Turk or an Arab will + sleep on a hard bed when he could have an easier one if he chose. A native + of any part of the Orient is less sensitive than an Occidental to a + cudgeling, and he is quite indifferent to the sufferings of animals. No + dog in London or New York would be regarded as indifferently by the + inhabitants of those cities as are the dogs of Constantinople and Cairo by + the Mohammedans. They beat their donkeys and, buffaloes with great + cruelty; one of the unpleasant features of riding on a donkey is the + pounding that the brute receives from his driver, and when he is doing his + best he will frequently get a blow that would floor a man. Many of the + donkeys have large sores where their hips have been punched with sharp + sticks, and these sores are kept open by a continuance of the punching. I + don’t think the Arabs are intentionally cruel; it is difficult to + make them understand the sufferings of animals when they themselves are + quite indifferent to pain and discomfort. + </p> + <p> + As we approached Assouan the sandstone formation disappeared and granite + came into view. Along this part of the river there were numerous boulders + in the stream; they change their places through the action of the current + and make navigation somewhat dangerous. A steamer that left Cairo after we + did struck one of these boulders while going at full speed and was of no + use as a steamboat after that. Passengers, crew, and baggage were saved, + but the boat went to what Mr. Mantalini would call the “demnition + bow-wows.” + </p> + <p> + We made several windings with alternate views of fertile ground and sandy + desert, rocky hills and huge boulders, and a last on a rounded summit + there appeared a dome that overlookes Assouan. We made a sharp bend to the + left passing more boulders and with the island of Elephantine on our right + swung in towards the town and made fast to the bank. + </p> + <p> + The river seemed to end here; we were enclosed in an amphitheatre + variously composed of sand, granite, town, and verdure from which there + appeared to be no egress save by the route through which we had advanced. + Steam was blown off and the upward journey of our boat was ended. <span + class="pagenum">609</span><a name="link609" id="link609"></a>As we went on + shore we met a crowd of Arabs and Nubians with ostrich feathers, Nubian + dresses, old coins, arrows, silver ornaments, battle axes and the like for + sale. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0248" id="linkimage-0248"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0624.jpg" alt="0624 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0624.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The Arabs were like those we had seen down the river, but the Nubians were + another lot. + </p> + <p> + Their black skins were covered with scanty clothing, and their woolly hair + was done into small ringlets about the size of lead pencils and + plentifully saturated with grease. To trade with them required as much + bargaining as with the Arabs, and sometimes a little more. + </p> + <p> + They had high prices for their ostrich feathers, but we gradually brought + them down. One article dealt in here was the <span class="pagenum">610</span><a + name="link610" id="link610"></a>whip of hippopotamus hide which goes by + the name of <i>courbash</i>. Some of the passengers bought each a dozen or + more; I contented myself with one whip and a cane as I did not wish to + affect the market. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0249" id="linkimage-0249"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9625.jpg" alt="9625 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9625.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + It was late when we arrived so that there was only time to take a stroll + through the bazaars which contained nothing of special importance. + </p> + <p> + Assouan is a town of about four thousand inhabitants, and occupies the + site of the ancient Sy-ene. At certain seasons it presents many curious + features as the trade from Nubia centres there and the product of the + Soudan and Central Africa which has been sent by camels around the + cataract is reloaded here. Ostrich feathers, ivory, gum arabic, lion and + leopard skins and the like are the chief articles from those countries, + and may sometimes be seen at Assouan in considerable quantities. + </p> + <p> + In front of Assouan and in the middle of the river is Elephantine’ + Island, so named probably, because no elephant was ever seen there. We + went there in a small boat rather rickety and leaky in its character, and + which stuck in the mud at twenty feet or more from the land. The island + has been famous through many hundred years, and once contained a city of + considerable importance. We visited the ruins of this city and also of a + temple which was destroyed about fifty years ago to furnish stone for the + construction of some modern buildings in Assouan. + </p> + <p> + The island has a fertile appearance and is kept in a luxuriant condition + by several <i>sakkiehs</i> which are worked not by men as on the lower + Nile but by oxen. A pair of oxen turn a wheel by which a quantity of + buckets are made to lift water from the + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0250" id="linkimage-0250"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0626.jpg" alt="0626 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0626.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">611</span><a name="link611" id="link611"></a>river. + We visited one of these sakkiehs, but the driver did not greet us kindly + as his team took fright at our coming and nearly wrecked the machine + before he could stop and pacify them. + </p> + <p> + The inhabitants of the island are all Nubians, and as we landed they + flocked down to meet us. They offered for sale old coins, agates, spears, + arrows, and Nubian dresses, but they did not drive a lively trade. The + Nubian dress is not an extensive affair; one of the passengers bought one + and put it in his coat pocket, and several were offered to me that weighed + only a few ounces each. They were the costumes of ladies, not of men, and + consisted of a fringe of strips of leather like shoe strings attached to a + strap. This strap was fastened around the loins, and the strings hanging + down constituted the dress. + </p> + <p> + This custom is quite unfit for the climate of America; it is better for + Nubia where the thermometer ranges high during the entire year and rain + never falls. I saw several young ladies dressed in these airy garments and + they did not appear at all uncomfortable. + </p> + <p> + If a lady wants to get herself up gorgeously, she adds a string of beads + to the above apparel and her toilet is complete. One dusky maiden of about + sixteen summers took off her string of beads and proffered them for sale. + I gave her a franc for the lot and she then removed the rest of her + apparel and proposed selling it for two francs. + </p> + <p> + What a country,—where a feminine wardrobe in the height of fashion + can be bought for three francs! + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0251" id="linkimage-0251"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5628.jpg" alt="5628 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5628.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">612</span><a name="link612" id="link612"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0252" id="linkimage-0252"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0629.jpg" alt="0629 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0629.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0048" id="link2HCH0048"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVIII—CAMEL RIDING.—ADVENTURES AMONG THE NUBIANS. + </h2> + <p> + <i>How they made the Royal Coffins—Splitting Blocks of Stones with + Wooden Wedges—An Ingenious Device—A Ride on a Camel—A + Beast indulging in Familiarities—Lunching on Trowsers—Mounting + in the Saddle—Curious Sensation—An Interesting Brute—A + Camel Solo—Sitting in a Dish—Camel Riding in a Gymnastic Point + of View—Secondary Effects—Nubian Ferry-Boats—P. T. and + his Paint-Pot—Labors of an Enthusiastic American—Mr. Tucker on + his Travels—“A Human Donkey”—Visiting the Cataract—Paying + Toll to a Sheik—The Professor and his Camel—Crocodiles of the + Nile—Starting back to Cairo.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>E arranged to go + around the cataract and visit the Island of Philæ the day after our + arrival at Assouan. On our way we took in the granite quarries, where for + thousands of years blocks of stone were taken out for various building + purposes and for making those enormous sarcophagi used in so many Egyptian + tombs. The stone is of the red character known as syenite and admits of a + high polish. In one of the quarries there is an obelisk not quite + detached, which would have been ninety-five feet high and eleven feet + broad at the base. Why it was abandoned and under what king it was begun + are not known. + </p> + <p> + The quarries are interesting from the fact that they show the ancient + method of removing stone. Holes were cut to receive wooden wedges, which + were driven firmly in and then wet with | water until their swelling broke + away the stone by the equal and powerful pressure it exerted. The same + plan is still in use in, some parts of India; the quarries at Jerusalem + whence was, <span class="pagenum">613</span><a name="link613" id="link613"></a>taken + the stone for building Solomon’s temple show similar marks of the + wedge. + </p> + <p> + We were offered the choice of camels or donkeys for the ride to Philæ and + back, and for the novelty of the thing I selected a camel. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0253" id="linkimage-0253"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8630.jpg" alt="8630 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8630.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + I went out early in the morning before any other passenger was stirring, + and examined the beasts with the eye of a connoisseur. They were all lying + down and chewing the cud of content or some other kind of grass, and I + endeavored to get on friendly terms with them. I patted one on the head + and he resented the familiarity by endeavoring to bite a section from the + seat of my trowsers. + </p> + <p> + This kind of performance was not calculated to secure my friendship and I + moved on to another which the boy in charge insisted was <i>tayb kateer</i> + (very good). He did not try to bite and as he was of goodly size I chose + him. Then I proceeded to mount and took my seat in the saddle which had a + strong resemblance to a wood-sawyer’s “horse” with a + blanket over it. Now was the critical moment. + </p> + <p> + I grasped firmly the pommel of the saddle and also the cantle; as I did + so, the boy pulled the camel’s halter and uttered something like + “<i>Hey da! Hey da!</i>” + </p> + <p> + The camel lifted his shoulders and came up to his knees; then he brought + up his hind quarters to the full height of the legs there, and finally he + arose from his knees to his fore feet. The motion, so far as I was + concerned, was a surge backward, then a surge forward, and finally a + backward surge that subsided into a level. <span class="pagenum">614</span><a + name="link614" id="link614"></a>Here is the formula: Half the fore-legs, + then all the hindlegs, then half the fore-legs. From a level you are + pitched backward so that you could easily fall on your shoulders; an + instant after, you find yourself inclined forward, and the next instant + you are on the backward lean again, and subside into a level. I held on + firmly, or I should have come to grief. I fancy the camel boys who stood + around had several laughs at my precautions to prevent falling. + </p> + <p> + The camel kneels in the reverse of the motions of rising, <i>i. e.</i>, + half the fore-legs, all the hind-legs, and then half the fore-legs. When + he is lying down his back is easily accessible for loading or mounting, + but when he is up in the air he is a long way off. + </p> + <p> + I selected one of the largest beasts on purpose to know the sensation of + being elevated. I expected to have a sense of insecurity and possibly of + giddiness, but on the contrary experienced nothing of the kind. + </p> + <p> + On the score of beauty the camel has no reason to be proud. His neck and + head are ill-shaped and suggest an overgrown turkey; his feet move + awkwardly and with an appearance of gout, rheumatism, and spring-halt; his + skin looks like an old boot that has been exposed to wind and rain for + half a year; and his shape generally is as beautiful as that of a gnarly + apple. My camel had a grotesquely colored skin; he had hair in spots and + spots without hair, and what he had was of the shade of a very old buffalo + robe. He had a sort of wool on his neck, but it was rather bunchy and + looked as if his brother camels had browsed upon it; and his under-lip + hung down like that of a boy who is about to whimper in expectation of a + flogging. + </p> + <p> + When I mounted him, he arched his neck around like a snake and brought his + head quite near mine, and at the same time began a noise that was a + combination of screaming, bellowing, and groaning. He kept this up about + half the time I was on his back, and altogether he made the journey a + musical one. + </p> + <p> + The regular saddle for riding a camel is a sort of dish, in which you sit + with your legs crossed over the animal’s neck or hanging down at + will. You can have stirrups if you like, as a rest for the feet, and for a + long journey the best plan is to sling a pair of well-filled saddle-bags + or a couple of boxes over a common pack <span class="pagenum">615</span><a + name="link615" id="link615"></a>saddle, and arrange them in such a way + that they form a level surface about six feet from side to side. Cover + this with blankets, shawls, and a mattress, and roll up the sheets and + pillow of your bed, and strap them to the back of the saddle so as to form + a comfortable rest. Fasten a pair of stirrups to the saddlebow and have + everything well strapped and corded so as to prevent slipping. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0254" id="linkimage-0254"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8632.jpg" alt="8632 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8632.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + With this arrangement you can lean, lie down, sit sideways or + cross-legged, or with your feet in the stirrups; and if you want to be + luxurious, you can fasten a huge umbrella so as to shade you from the sun. + A suggestion of my own is that you add a soda fountain, a billiard table, + and a fish-pond, and also a light carriage for driving around your + platform. Other comforts would doubtless occur to the imaginative reader. + </p> + <p> + There is a peculiar rocking motion to the camel, and the experienced rider + moves his body backwards and forwards, bending at the hips, at each step + of the beast. + </p> + <p> + The night after my camel ride, I dreamed that I had a backbone of glass, + and could not move without breaking in two; and when I got up in the + morning it seemed as if I was all backbone and that an iron rod had been + passed through it for purposes of rigidity. I went around rather pompously + for all that day, and I couldn’t have made a bow if I had been in + front of the king of the Cannibal Islands and threatened with instant + death for any appearance of incivility. I dropped my cane while walking on + shore and had to hire an Arab to pick it up, and as for putting on my + boots it was as great an effort as to turn a somersault in a peck measure. + <span class="pagenum">616</span><a name="link616" id="link616"></a>My + camel was an ordinary baggage beast, and the saddle was such as they use + for transporting freight around the cataract. The two round sticks that + run from pommel to cantle were painfully perceptible beneath the blanket + that hid them, and the rubbing, rocking motion over them made a couple of + abrasions of the skin as large as a soda cracker. + </p> + <p> + The result of my camel riding was to teach a great deal of dignity, and to + cause me to sit as little as possible in the presence of my elders or of + any body else. What with stiffness and soreness I was not agile in my + movements, and it took as long for me to sit down or rise from a seat, and + was about as laborious, as to lay the corner-stone of an eight-story + building. + </p> + <p> + From Assouan to the quarries the scenery was wild and striking, especially + so at the point where we caught sight of the river and had Philae in the + midst of the Nile as the centre of the picture. We had at one view the + desert, black rocks and white sand, green trees, a flowing river, and the + beautiful island with its coronet of temples. Under the tall trees on the + river bank, there was a crowd of Arabs and Nubians, waiting for us to + dismount, and beyond them lay the boats which were to ferry us over. The + scene was unlike that of any other part of the Nile that we had yet + encountered, and we readily realized that we had passed the frontier of + Egypt and had entered Nubia. + </p> + <p> + Leaving my camel in the hands of his driver—a scantily-dressed boy + of Nubian origin,—I entered the boat and waited till the rest of the + party were on board. Half a dozen merchants of ostrich feathers and + ornaments of silver were trying to strike up bargains, but did not create + much business. In the river some Nubian urchins were sitting astride of + logs and paddling about, and they showed great dexterity in balancing + themselves. These logs are generally a foot in diameter and six or eight + feet long, and you can see them lying around on the banks; they appear to + be common property for use as ferry boats, but whether they are supplied + by government I am unable to say. A native comes to the Nile and wishes to + cross; he removes his clothing and makes it into a bundle that he places + on the top of his head, and thus prepared he takes a log, strides it, + plunges into the river and paddles over. On the other side he draws the + log well on <span class="pagenum">617</span><a name="link617" id="link617"></a>the + land, and as soon as his body is dry he dons his clothing and moves on. + Sometimes and generally he does not happen to have any clothing, and in + this event he is saved a great deal of trouble. + </p> + <p> + Philæ has always excited the admiration of travellers, many of whom have + characterized it as the most lovely spot they ever beheld. + </p> + <p> + To the ancient Egyptian it was the most sacred place on earth. It was the + resting-place of his god of gods, the all-powerful Osiris, who was + identified with the annual overflow of the Nile, and the consequent + fertility of the land. + </p> + <p> + Hence arose the fable that his body was deposited in the cataract, whence + he arose each year to enrich the earth. + </p> + <p> + Isis was the sister and wife of Osiris. On the monuments she is variously + styled the “Mistress of Heaven,” the “Regent of the + Gods,” the “Eye of the Sun.” A veil always hung before + her shrine, which, said the well known inscription, “None among + mortals have ever lifted up.” Sometimes she represented the land of + Egypt, just as Osiris did its fertilizing river, the Nile. + </p> + <p> + Such were the deities to whose mysterious worship, Philæ, the Sacred + Island, was solemnly dedicated. + </p> + <p> + The temple was beautifully situated, as it covered a considerable part of + the Island, and must have appeared in the days of its glory very much as + though it rose out of the water. It is comparatively modern, as the dates + upon it do not go back beyond the XXXth Dynasty—about four hundred + years B. C. The building was very irregular, and the indications are that + it was the work of several architects at different periods. The propylon + towers are massive, and rise to a height of nearly sixty feet above their + base, affording a fine view of the island and its surroundings. <span + class="pagenum">618</span><a name="link618" id="link618"></a>The colors on + the walls and towers are wonderfully preserved,—better than in most + of the Egyptian temples,—and they present a beautiful effect. + </p> + <p> + The sky was clear and the air soft and balmy; a slight breeze shook the + leaves of the trees and roughened the water of the river. To the north + were the black rocks that marked the locality of the cataract, while to + the south the Nile made a short bend among the Nubian hills and was + speedily lost to view. + </p> + <p> + There is a sentimental poem on the “Long Ago” by an American + author, which contains the following stanza: + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + “There’s a musical isle up the river Time, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + Where the softest of airs are playing; + </p> + <p class="indent15"> + There’s a cloudless sky and a tropical clime, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + And a song as sweet as the vesper chime, + </p> + <p class="indent20"> + And the tunes with the roses are straying.” + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a name="linkimage-0255" id="linkimage-0255"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9635.jpg" alt="9635 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9635.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + It may have been, and at all events it is pretty and poetical enough for + the uses of anybody who ever ventured upon verse-making. If I wanted to + cure anybody of the poetic mania Philæ would be the last place to which I + should send him. + </p> + <p> + There are inscribed on the temple, chiefly on the pylon towers, the names + of many persons who have visited the place within the past two hundred + years. On the side of one of the doorways is an inscription in French, + announcing that the army of Desaix reached the island of Philæ, at the + time of the occupation of Egypt by the French under Bonaparte. The + inscription remained untouched until 1848, when some English visitors + effaced the words <i>Buonaparte</i> and <i>Armée Française</i>. An + enthusiastic Frenchman, who had been up the river + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">619</span><a name="link619" id="link619"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0256" id="linkimage-0256"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0636.jpg" alt="0636 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0636.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">621</span><a name="link621" id="link621"></a>to the + second cataract, happened to visit the island on his return and found that + the mutilation had occurred during his absence. He procured a pot of + paint, restored the names and wrote beneath the inscription: “<i>Une + page d’histoire ne s efface pas!</i>” + </p> + <p> + One of the most enterprising of modern travellers—so far as + recording the fact of his visit is concerned—is a somebody from New + York. He came here in 1870 and travelled, literally, not figuratively, + with a paint pot and brush in his hand. On the pyramids, on the tombs at + Sakkarah, on the walls of the temple at Karnak, at Edfou, Esneh, in fact + everywhere along the Nile I saw his initials, “P. T., N. Y., 1870” + I was told that his full name is Tucker; I hope it is at any rate, as it + is not proper that such a genius should rest in obscurity. He smeared + those initials where they were sure to be seen, and was not at all + particular if he defaced a fine mural painting or sculpture by so doing. + In the temple at Karnak, for example, he painted them in such a way as to + deface a mural sculpture, and he did likewise at other places. If he could + come here again, and under another name accompany a party like ours up the + Nile, he would no doubt listen with pleasure to the compliments passed + upon him. + </p> + <p> + Nearly everybody called him a first-class ass, an idiot, a fool; and some + prefixed an adjective of a participial character to the word; and I heard + several persons wish to wring his neck. I endeavored to reprove them, but + it was of no use; and lest he should go down to the obscurity that he + evidently dreaded, I embrace this opportunity to make known his name and + valorous deeds. + </p> + <p> + An Englishman said to me one day while looking at the above inscription, + “We have a good many human donkeys in England, but I think your + countryman who did that is the grandest ass in the world.” My heart + was so full just then that I could not rush to my compatriot’s + defence, and I fear that my British friend believed I shared his opinion. + </p> + <p> + From the island we went to see the cataract, which is nothing more than a + succession of rapids. In the time of the highest flood boats can ascend + the cataract with the aid of a strong wind by their sails alone, but in + ordinary stages they must be taken up by means of tow-ropes. From forty to + sixty men are <span class="pagenum">622</span><a name="link622" + id="link622"></a>required, and the passage through the five miles of + distance will take a whole day. The scene is quite picturesque and full of + animation, especially when the rope breaks and lets the boat back over a + distance that has been gained with much toil. + </p> + <p> + There is a sheik who has entire control of the passage of the cataract, + and the contract must be made with him. It costs from ten to fifteen + pounds to take a boat up from Assouan to Mahatta, a small village at the + head of the falls, and sometimes the work will take three or four days. + </p> + <p> + At Mahatta we found our camels and donkeys, and returned by the bank of + the river to Assouan. The Professor was on a camel of enormous size—so + large in fact that I suggested the addition of a pilot house and steering + gear to keep the animal in the road. We passed two or three villages where + the natives offered us necklaces and polished agates for sale, and a few + old coins. Skins of crocodiles were offered, and one native tried hard to + palm off a lizard on us as a young crocodile. + </p> + <p> + Crocodiles, by the way, are quite scarce on the Nile below the First + Cataract. We saw but one on our whole voyage; twenty years ago you might + see two or three dozen of them in a day. In Nubia they are abundant + enough, and further up the Nile you can see plenty of hippopotami. Not one + of these beasts exists now below the second cataract, though less than + sixty years ago one was killed in the delta below Cairo. + </p> + <p> + After several day’s stoppage at Assouan, we started back for Cairo. + All steamboat travellers and most <i>dahabeeah</i> parties do not go + beyond Philæ, and nearly all tourists who go further, end their voyage at + Wady Haifa, the foot of the Second Cataract, two hundred and forty miles + beyond Assouan. + </p> + <p> + Above Wady Haifa the river makes a wide bend into Dougoula; parties + intending to proceed to Khartoum, at the junction of the Blue and White + Nile, generally leave the river at Korosko, a hundred miles below Wady + Haifa, and make a journey of eight days by camel across the desert to Aboo + Hamed, where they take boats again on the river and save going around the + bend After passing Khartoum there is good navigation on the Nile, for a + long distance, and then— + </p> + <p> + Well, that is what explorers are endeavoring to find out. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">623</span><a name="link623" id="link623"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0049" id="link2HCH0049"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIX—IN THE SLAVE-COUNTRY—SIR SAMUEL W. BAKER’S + EXPEDITION. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Egyptian Slave Trade—How carried on—An Army of + Kidnappers—A Slave King—Frightful Scenes—Sir Samuel + Baker’s Expedition—A Shrewd Move—Breech-loaders as + Civilizing Agents—A Missionary Outfit—Starting for the Slave + Country—Reluctant A lies—The “Forty Thieves”—Running + against a Snag—The Sacred Egyptian Flower—The Lotos-Eaters, + Who were They?—The New York Lotophagi—The Papyrus or Vegetable + Paper—Capturing a Cargo of Slaves—The Plague of Flies—A + few more “likely Niggers”—Marrying by Wholesale—A + Fight with the Natives—The result of the Expedition.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span> HAVE already + alluded to the efforts of the Khedive to put an end to the slave trade in + Central Africa, and to give that benighted part of the world some of the + advantages of civilization. + </p> + <p> + Under some of the former rulers of Egypt the slave trade had been openly + encouraged, while under others it was restricted, but not very forcibly. + In 1869 the Khedive determined to make a formidable effort for its + suppression. At that time the reports from Central Africa showed that the + trade was mainly carried on by Egyptian subjects, most of them merchants + of Khartoum. They were working on an extensive scale. They had organized + companies of well armed brigands, and they sent out regular expeditions of + these fellows into the country whence the slaves were drawn. Ostensibly + these expeditions were for trading in ivory, but the chief and frequently + the sole article of commerce sought was of a color quite the reverse of + ivory. To such an extent was the business carried that large tracts of + country were rendered almost desolate; whole villages were burned and + their <span class="pagenum">624</span><a name="link624" id="link624"></a>inhabitants + killed, dispersed or captured, and sold into slavery, and all legitimate + business seemed to be at an end. It was estimated that not less than + fifteen thousand subjects of the Khedive were employed in trading inhuman + flesh. Nearly the whole of the Nile basin beyond Khartoum was parcelled + out among the traders, who worked together for the common good and + conducted their <i>razzias</i> by means of their armed followers. + </p> + <p> + One of the traders claimed jurisdiction over ninety thousand square miles + of territory, and could do as he pleased within its borders. The estimate + of the number of slaves annually captured and sent out of the country was + not less than fifty thousand. As the traders could penetrate into all the + populous country and make their raids at will there was great insecurity + of life and property. The Khedive determined to strike a blow for the + suppression of this infamous business, and for this purpose an expedition + was organized and Sir Samuel White Baker was assigned the supreme command + for four years from April 1st, 1869. + </p> + <p> + This expedition was expected to subdue to the Khedive’s authority + the countries situated to the south of Goudokoro; to suppress the slave + trade; to introduce a system of commerce; to open to navigation the great + lakes of the equator; and to establish military stations and commercial + depots throughout Central Africa. + </p> + <p> + Baker was given absolute control of the men under him and of the country + designated in the Khedive’s decree. He had even the power of life + and death, and from his decisions there was no appeal. + </p> + <p> + It was decided that one of the first steps necessary in suppressing the + slave trade was to “annex” the country of the Nile basin to + Egypt. This would make it subject to Egyptian laws and would tend to the + establishment of commerce more surely than if the region should remain + independent and uncivilized. The inhabitants could learn to read and + write, and could buy whiskey and tobacco; they could get drunk and steal, + and otherwise be honored citizens, as if they were subjects of the Queen + of England or the President of the United States. Instead of going about + in nakedness they would have strings of beads to wear <span class="pagenum">625</span><a + name="link625" id="link625"></a>around their necks, and if prosperous and + obedient they might hope for rings on their fingers, and in time for bells + on their toes. Christianity and contagious diseases would be introduced; + they would have debating societies, spelling matches, and caucusses, and + all kindred institutions of a free people, and they might look forward to + that millennial period when city halls and courthouses, and prisons, and + jails, would rise in their midst to enrich the Ethiopian Tweeds and + Sweeneys of that happy time. The heathen should no longer live in + blindness and bow down to wood and stone. He should go to a fine church on + Fifth avenue, listen to a popular preacher, and sing his hosannas by proxy + through the mouths of a carefully selected and liberally paid quartette. + It was expected that the natives would rush anxiously forward to listen to + the proclamation of annexation. + </p> + <p> + To aid them to come to a favorable decision Sir Samuel was provided with a + suitable number of breech-loading rifles with plenty of fixed ammunition, + and with about sixteen hundred men to handle the rifles properly. This + military force included two hundred irregular cavalry and two batteries. + With such a missionary outfit as this it was thought there would be no + trouble in convincing the untutored savages that it was a good thing to be + annexed and civilized. The arms and equipments were carefully selected, + and for the further purpose of convincing the natives three steamboats—built + in sections so that they could be carried on camels—were taken + along. Then there was a large supply of English cloth of different kinds, + all sorts of tools and toys, musical boxes, cheap watches, and odds and + ends of different kinds enough to stock a variety store at Christmas time. + </p> + <p> + After many delays and difficulties the expedition was off for Khartoum + where it arrived in course of time. The official and other residents of + Khartoum were not over friendly to the expedition, as the most of them had + an interest in the slave trade, directly or otherwise, and some of the + principal operators were on intimate terms with the governor. The latter + had done nothing toward getting ready the vessels necessary for the + expedition, but he went to work soon after Baker’s arrival and + displayed considerable activity. After a while the expedition moved on + with the two steamers which had been put together, and with a <span + class="pagenum">626</span><a name="link626" id="link626"></a>fleet of + thirty-one sailing vessels. Altogether the command of Baker Pasha was + somewhat more than a thousand men, the original number having been + diminished by sickness, death, and desertion. + </p> + <p> + He had a special corps of forty-six men selected as a body guard and + commanded by an Egyptian lieutenant-colonel. As the most of them were + originally convicts sent from Cairo to the Soudan the contingent was known + as the “Forty Thieves.” They were a brave lot of rascals and + did most excellent service. + </p> + <p> + In this army of enterprise commanded by Baker Pasha, it did not appear + necessary that the men that went out for soldiers should be of the best + quality. Anything will do as food for powder, and when they prove as + courageous as did the “Forty Thieves,” the wisdom of the + selection is to be commended. + </p> + <p> + Baker proceeded up the Nile from Khartoum as fast as the winds and steam + could carry him, and had no trouble for some days. His difficulties began + when he reached a point where the river was blocked with a mass of reeds + and vegetable matter through which the water managed to soak. But the + boats could not find any passage and the expedition was compelled to halt. + </p> + <p> + At length thirty vessels were ordered to form in line single file, to cut + a canal through the high water grass, but the operation was very fatiguing + to the men and put a goodly number of them on the sick list. They made + about a mile and a half the first day, and on the next the whole fleet was + pushed forward about five miles, the mass of vegetation having diminished + in quantity. But on subsequent days they were not so fortunate, and + finally were forced to stop altogether. The mass of vegetable matter + steadily increased, and finding the passage impossible Baker gave the + order to return. + </p> + <p> + Among the plants that formed part of this, vegetable mass was the lotos, + the flower that was considered sacred among the ancient Egyptians, and was + cultivated in the little ponds at the sides of their temples. It is a + species of water lily. Eleven varieties of the lotos are known; but only + one is now found in lower Egypt, the leaves and flowers of which float + upon the water. From representations on the walls of temples and tombs it + is supposed that the sacred flower of ancient Egypt generally grew + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">627</span><a name="link627" id="link627"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0257" id="linkimage-0257"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0644.jpg" alt="0644 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0644.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">629</span><a name="link629" id="link629"></a>in the + edge of the water or in a moist place. The leaves and flowers were upheld + above the surface by strong stalks. The pods and seeds of the lotos are + eaten by the natives in Central Africa, and sometimes form their only + article of food. + </p> + <p> + The Lotos-eaters, or Lotophagi, were described by Herodotus, who was + vainly urged to eat of the plant. It was supposed that one who had eaten + of the lotos would lose all desire to return to his native land, and be + content to pass the rest of his days in dreamy rest. Tennyson has made use + of this idea in one of his most charming poems. + </p> + <p> + A club known as the Lotos was formed in New York some years ago, and is + yet in successful operation. But the digestive organs of its members and + their guests are exercised upon beefsteak, potatoes, and kindred edibles + much oftener than upon the African plant. In fact, I have never yet seen + the article on their <i>menu</i>. + </p> + <p> + Further up the Nile its banks are covered with a dense vegetation which + includes many kinds of tropical plants. The lotos rises from the water’s + edge, and close beside it may be seen the papyrus, the plant whose name is + preserved in the word “paper.” + </p> + <p> + As the expedition went back the channel which had been cut with so much + labor was found to be freshly choked so that the return movement was + nearly as slow as the advance. + </p> + <p> + On the advance up the river the governor of Fashooda, a station on the + White Nile, had warmly commended the Khedive’s plan for suppressing + the slave trade, and wished Baker the best of success. On the latter’s + unexpected return he found the governor shipping a cargo of slaves down + the river, and that several villages in the vicinity had been robbed of + their inhabitants in order that the governor could make up his cargo. + Baker captured the boat containing the slaves and had the captives brought + out. There were seventy-one of them in all, and an examination of the + shore revealed eighty-four additional slaves guarded by the governor’s + soldiers! + </p> + <p> + The governor tried to explain that the prisoners were held as hostages + until the rest of the people should pay their taxes. But as there was no + fixed tax in the country the whole story was rather lacking in texture, in + fact, was altogether “too thin.” The <span class="pagenum">630</span><a + name="link630" id="link630"></a>governor was somewhat annoyed at having + been caught, and his principal consolation was that slave dealing was the + chief business of the Soudan country, and that therefore he was no worse + than his fellows. + </p> + <p> + Baker now descended the Nile to the mouth of the Sabat river, where he + established a camp on a piece of high ground. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0258" id="linkimage-0258"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0647.jpg" alt="0647 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0647.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + A garden was formed and planted, and in a short time a dozen varieties of + vegetables were in rapid growth. Millions of white ants appeared and + created great havoc among the stores of the expedition, and they were + gallantly assisted by the rats which abound around the White Nile. Flies + were very troublesome, and compelled the erection of dark stables for the + horses, and even in these stables it was necessary to make smudges of + burning horse dung to expel the annoying insects. The donkeys suffered + likewise, but in spite of the flies they were found to keep their + condition best in the open air, though their hair fell off and their skins + assumed the appearance of India rubber. After a time they became + accustomed to the situation; with all their persistence the flies were + unable to appeal to the moral nature of the beasts. + </p> + <p> + Gristmills and sawmills were erected, and for the first time in the + history of the world this part of the Nile basin resounded to the <span + class="pagenum">631</span><a name="link631" id="link631"></a>music so + familiar to the valleys of the Penobscot and Kennebec. A small machine + shop was opened, and there was much activity in the preparations for the + next campaign to the south. The natives looked on wonderingly, and + established the most friendly relations with the expedition. But it took + them a long time to understand why the government should send an armed + force to break up the slave trade, when its local officials were more or + less engaged in that commerce. The untutored savage is quick at + comprehending anything which an educated white man could not easily get + through his head. + </p> + <p> + One day a sail-boat was discovered descending the river. It attempted to + pass, but was brought to land, and at first glance appeared to be laden + with corn. The captain and super-cargo protested that they had no slaves + on board. An examination was made resulting in the discovery of a. hundred + and fifty stowed away in the hold like sardines in a can. They were + brought out—boys, girls, and women—all perfectly naked; their + shackles were removed and the captain and supercargo were put in irons. + </p> + <p> + Next morning Baker gave free papers to the negroes, and gave them the + choice of returning to their homes or making themselves useful about the + camp. He told the women that if any of them wished to marry, they could + possibly find husbands among his soldiers. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon the officer in charge of the negroes came to inform Baker + that all the women wished to marry, and had already selected their + husbands. There was some difficulty about arranging the details, as the + black women refused to marry the brown men of the Egyptian regiment. They + didn’t want any dirty white trash, but had no objection to such + soldiers as had the good fortune to be negroes. + </p> + <p> + Months were consumed in tedious and vexatious delays before the expedition + arrived at Gondokoro. Here a station was established, a garden was + planted, and the natives were made by various means to understand that the + expedition had come there to stay, and occupy the country in the interest + of freedom. + </p> + <p> + The natives were hostile, and were particularly enraged when told that the + country was to be annexed to Egypt. On the 26th <span class="pagenum">632</span><a + name="link632" id="link632"></a>of May the ceremony was performed that + added many thousand miles of territory to the dominions of the Khedive. + </p> + <p> + A flagstaff eighty feet high had been erected. The whole military force, + consisting of twelve hundred men with ten pieces of artillery, was marched + out and formed in a square around the flagstaff. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0259" id="linkimage-0259"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9649.jpg" alt="9649 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9649.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + The official proclamation was read, and as the last words were pronounced, + the Ottoman flag was run up, the officers saluted with their swords, the + infantry presented arms, and the artillery fired a salvo which woke the + echoes of Gondokoro and the surrounding country. But the soldiers of the + expedition had become discouraged, and the mutinous spirit among the men + finally broke out in the shape of written protests signed by all the + officers, except those belonging to “The Forty Thieves.” + </p> + <p> + These protests were to the effect that the officers and soldiers were + weary of the expedition, and wished to return to Khartoum. + </p> + <p> + Fights with the natives became of almost daily occurrence, and some of + them assumed the importance of battles. But the arrows and spears of the + natives and the few muskets they had obtained from the traders, were no + match for the rifles of the Egyptians, and the fights invariably resulted + in the defeat of the savage. But the movements of the expedition were + retarded, and the little camp at Gondokoro was kept in a state of frequent + alarm. Though the rebellious officers were silenced, their feelings were + unchanged, and they did not rush eagerly into the fight when the bugle + called to arms. + </p> + <p> + Still Baker persevered, and by his bravery and indomitable + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">633</span><a name="link633" id="link633"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0260" id="linkimage-0260"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0650.jpg" alt="0650 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0650.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">635</span><a name="link635" id="link635"></a>energy + the expedition was kept together. The sick and wounded were sent back to + Khartoum, and the command was soon reduced to less than five hundred men + of all ranks and occupations. Numerous expeditions were sent into the + surrounding country, to the consternation of the natives, who were + astonished at the appearance of the soldiers, especially as they were + accompanied by music from the bugles of “The Forty Thieves” + and the band of the Egyptian regiment. + </p> + <p> + At the expiration of his term of service, Baker descended the Nile and + arrived at Cairo in August, 1873, where he was warmly received by the + Khedive and decorated with the order of the “Medjidie.” + </p> + <p> + Colonel Gordon, whose name had become well known through his connection + with the wars in China, and his organization of the army that received the + title of “Ever Victorious,” was appointed to succeed Baker + Pasha. Late in 1873 he proceeded to the Soudan, where he took command of + the troops which had been left at Khartoum and Gondokoro. The expedition + was reorganized, and in 1874 was ready to proceed. Fresh soldiers were + sent from Cairo, a better equipment was given to the soldiers, and several + of the foreign officers in the Khedive’s service were transferred to + the Soudan. Arms, ammunition, goods, provisions, and all needed supplies + were liberally provided, and the work of exploration and the suppression + of the slave trade was actively pushed. + </p> + <p> + While I was in Egypt I became acquainted with two of the American officers + who were to accompany Colonel Gordon, and they departed for the south + during my stay at Cairo. They were Lieutenant-Colonel Long and Major + Campbell, and both impressed me as able and efficient officers thoroughly + devoted to their duty. As I write they are still in Equatorial Africa; the + work of the expedition was expected to continue for three years from + January, 1874, and is therefore far from complete. + </p> + <p> + The Khedive shows a determination to put an end to the barbarous traffic + in humanity and to discover the sources of the Nile, thus setting at rest + a question which has vexed the scientists from the days of Herodotus to + our own. He has followed up his policy of annexation by taking the rich + country of Darfoor under <span class="pagenum">636</span><a name="link636" + id="link636"></a>his standard and proclaiming it the territory of Egypt. + Darfoor has long been at war with Egypt, and it is to be hoped that the + annexation of the country will bring a lasting peace that will tend to + agricultural and commercial development. The moral influence of + breech-loaders and rifled artillery in the hands of Gordon and his + energetic assistants is actively at work, and the results can be + confidently expected at no distant day. The whole of Equatorial Africa + will come under the sway of Egypt, and the old kingdom of the Pharaohs + will assume an extent never dreamed of in the days of Isis and Osiris. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0261" id="linkimage-0261"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5653.jpg" alt="5653 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5653.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">637</span><a name="link637" id="link637"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0262" id="linkimage-0262"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0654.jpg" alt="0654 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0654.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0050" id="link2HCH0050"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER L—SUNSET IN THE ORIENT.—VOYAGING DOWN THE NILE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>An Egyptian Sunset—A Gorgeous Spectacle—The Sky that bends + above the Nile—Singular Atmospheric Phenomena—A Picture for an + Artist—Shadows from History—Napoleon and the Pyramids—Our + Voyage back to Cairo—Scenes by the Way—“Cook’s + Tourists”—An Amusing Sight—Night-Fall on the Nile—A + Flame of Rockets—“What does it Mean?”—The Marriage + of the Khedive’s Son—Feminine Disappointment—Jumping + Ashore—Aboard of Donkeys—Gustave’s Somersault—Practical + Sympathy—In the Pasha’s Garden—A Magnificent Sight—The + Wedding Pageant—Elbowing an Arab Crowd—A Pyrotechnic Shower.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE tenth of + February was the last day of our journey on the Nile. Both gladly and + reluctantly we hailed the end. + </p> + <p> + The sun went down according to his usual custom and at the time set by + astronomers for him to do so. There was nothing remarkable in the fact + that sunset occurred at the close of the day, but there <i>was</i> + something remarkable in the coloring of the sky, and in the lights and + shadows of the hour. An Egyptian sunset is about the finest thing of the + kind that can be found anywhere, and it is no wonder that poets rave about + it and artists make long pilgrimages and endure many hardships in order to + transfer it to canvass. I have seen the glorious orb of day leave the + world “to darkness and to me” in many lands and climes of this + terrestial ball—in unsentimental English I have seen the same sun + set in many places—but I have never found it making a spectacle more + gorgeous than the Egyptian one. The Egyptian morning has some color, but + not much; in the middle of the day every particle of tint disappears + altogether, and the sky is perfectly clear—a sort of grayish blue in + which there is only the very faintest suggestion of cerulean. An hour or + two <span class="pagenum">638</span><a name="link638" id="link638"></a>before + sunset a close observer will discover faint outlines or ghosts of clouds—cirrus + and cirro-cumulus—streaming up from the western half of the horizon, + and furtively gaining little by little until they are at the zenith. At + first these clouds are colorless, but as they grow and take definite + shape, and the minutes roll on, they become purple and scarlet, and + crimson and golden, until the whole western heavens from north to south, + and from south back to north again seem to be aglow with lurid flames. The + sands of the Desert have absorbed during the middle of the day all the + effulgent beams of the sun; now they are giving them back in all their + prismatic variety and painting a picture of rarest beauty. The colors are + brightest as the sun drops into the waste of sand in the west. If we are + standing on the Mokattam Hills overlooking Cairo we have the pyramids of + Gizeh between us and the declining sun and their outlines become more and + more distinct as the day wanes. The colors linger on the clouds but + gradually they fade and disappear till at last we see only a bright line + of light along the horizon. This in turn melts away and the day is done. + </p> + <p> + “Soldiers,” said Napoleon, as he formed his army in line to + resist the desperate charge of the Mamelukes, “soldiers,—from + the lights of yonder pyramids forty centuries look down on you.” + </p> + <p> + Forty centuries and more have rolled away since Cheops and Cephren built + these monuments on the banks of the Nile. Could those stony masses be + endowed with speech what stories might they not tell us of the glories of + ancient Egypt, of the rise and fall of dynasties and kingdoms, of the + horrors of war and the blessings of peace, and of the many events which + their existence has embraced. They could tell us of many thousand sunset + scenes like the one we have just witnessed; of gorgeous pictures painted + on cloud and sky in colors that fade not as time rolls on but remain + to-day as brilliant as when the morning stars first sang together ages and + ages ago. + </p> + <p> + Our return voyage was not marked by any special incident. At sunset we + just caught a glimpse of the citadel that overlooks Cairo and commands + with its black-mouthed cannon the city of the Caliphs and the Mamelukes. + The arrowy minarets of the mosque of Mohammed Ali were faintly discernible + against the <span class="pagenum">639</span><a name="link639" id="link639"></a>sky, + and the orange groves of the Island of Roda filled the foreground of the + picture with their dark foliage. + </p> + <p> + We were on deck and busily engaged in studying the scene. There was a + gentle breeze blowing up the Nile and we met numerous boats taking + advantage of the wind that favored their southward journey. Most of them + were empty; they had been at Cairo and a market, and were now homeward + bound. Some were filled with men and women,—villagers from the banks + of the river, and every few moments we heard sounds of music and merriment + from these densely laden craft. One boat was so crowded that there were + not seats for all, and the gunwale of the craft was not more than two + inches above the water. + </p> + <p> + “What can they be?” asked a young lady who was generally the + leader in questioning. + </p> + <p> + “Don’t you know?” was the prompt reply, “it is a + party of Cook’s tourists on a pleasure trip.” Despite the + untruth it contained the reply caused a laugh on the part of all who heard + it, including the fair maiden who sought to be informed as to the + character of the party. + </p> + <p> + Darkness gathered over us and the stars came out in a moonless sky as we + moved slowly down the stream. Out of the gloom came a white-winged <i>dahabeeah</i>, + or Nile pleasure boat, and sailed directly in the track we were pursuing. + There was much running and shouting by the Arab crews: the long sails were + hastily swung around but not soon enough to save us from collision and + attendant excitement. + </p> + <p> + Happily there was no damage done, and happily too there was none of the + emphatic conversation such as we might have heard had the crews been of + the English speaking race. + </p> + <p> + Just as we swung clear of the upward bound boat and were once more under + way, a rocket shot up in the distant darkness and exploded into a + constellation of stars not to be found in any celestial atlas. + </p> + <p> + Another and another followed in quick succession, and then there arose a + tongue of flame that brought the palm trees into bold relief. + </p> + <p> + A wild shout was wafted to us on the northerly breeze, and it redoubled + when several rockets rose from the Citadel as if an<span class="pagenum">640</span><a + name="link640" id="link640"></a>swering the more distant ones that first + appeared. Then a hundred or more rockets rose almost together and the + heavens that before were calm and silent, and luminous only with the + bright dottings of myriad stars became resonant with explosions and + flashing with the corruscations of the flying pyrotechnics. ‘The + stars were paled by the nearer and more brilliant lights of man’s + handiwork, and we saw again the sunset colors released from the serene + glory of sky and cloud, and darting here and there as if the sun had burst + and the clouds were being chased away by a dozen opposing winds. + </p> + <p> + “What does all this mean?” came from the lips of our + inquisitive maiden. + </p> + <p> + This time her question was seriously answered. + </p> + <p> + “It is the beginning of the festivities in honor of the marriage of + one of the sons of the Khedive,” was the reply. “The ceremony + took place this morning, and the affair terminates with a round of + festivities that include fireworks, and dinners, and a good time + generally.” + </p> + <p> + “We are just in time,” exclaimed all the male voices in the + party. “We are just too late,” was the exclamation from all + the female mouths. + </p> + <p> + Did you ever see a woman who wouldn’t give all her antiquated + bootees to attend a wedding ceremonial, and did you ever see a man who + wouldn’t give quite as much to stay away from one—(his own + included)—if there was any social regulation requiring his + attendance? Of course there are exceptions but they only affirm the + correctness of the rule. I know of no subject on which there is more + divergence of opinion between the sexes than on that of attending other + people’s weddings. In the present instance all the women of our + party thought we had missed everything in missing the ceremony, while + every man thought we were fortunate in getting there for the festivities. + As a spectacle in a strange land the wedding might have been interesting, + but from a social and matrimonial point of view it was of no consequence + to a single beard-wearer. + </p> + <p> + “The rockets’ red glare and the bombs bursting in air” + continued as we descended the stream, and tied up to the east bank of the + Nile, just above the new iron bridge that spans the river <span + class="pagenum">641</span><a name="link641" id="link641"></a>and enables + you to take a carriage drive whenever you wish to the Geezereh palace, or + to the pyramids. + </p> + <p> + It was so late that the ladies concluded not to leave the boat, but we + masculines were not so particular. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0263" id="linkimage-0263"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8658.jpg" alt="8658 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8658.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + We jumped ashore and quickly clambered up the bank, and before many + minutes elapsed, Gustave and I had secured donkeys and were scampering + away in the direction of the fireworks. Gustave was lighter than I, and + urged his beast so fast that I could not keep up. I was striving to + overtake him, when suddenly I heard a thud in the dust-cloud just ahead of + me and a remark that was not altogether evangelical in its character. I + had no difficulty in overtaking Gustave then. + </p> + <p> + He and his donkey were lying all in a heap, and it was difficult to say + how much was donkey and how much was Gustave. + </p> + <p> + Both were covered with dust and looked as if they had been the principal + attendants of a country flouring mill, or stevedores engaged in the + stowage of a cargo of plaster of Paris. + </p> + <p> + My tendency to risibility was suddenly terminated by the fall of <i>my</i> + donkey, and there we were in an indiscriminate mass, two men and two + donkeys. Some rude jester may remark that there were four donkeys and no + men in the heap, but I shall take no notice of such impertinence. + </p> + <p> + We righted ourselves and shook the dust from our feet as a testimony + against such accidents. I dusted Gustave with my riding-whip and he dusted + me, and we did it so vigorously that <span class="pagenum">642</span><a + name="link642" id="link642"></a>a policeman came to arrest us for + fighting. An explanation in English, French, and German, which he did not + understand, with a small silver coin, which he did, made it all right. He + went his way rejoicing and left us to go ours. Our drivers got the donkeys + up and put them together; we remounted and proceeded, this time at a more + solemn pace. Gustave had suddenly remembered that the show was to last ten + days, and there was no occasion for us to be in a hurry. We had no more + falls that evening. + </p> + <p> + Moral: When you ride a donkey in Cairo, take your time and go slow. If you + attempt to push things, you will suddenly find yourself a greater ass than + the other one. + </p> + <p> + The fantasia, as the natives call it, was on a large open space where were + formerly the plantations of Ibrahim Pasha. It is outside the city, on the + road from Cairo to Old Cairo, and is studded with trees that bear many + marks of antiquity. The road is broad, macadamized, and modern, and for a + mile or more is as straight as a sunbeam. Along this straight portion + there was a framework of posts and horizontal planks, hung with Chinese + lanterns, in great variety of colors and in number about as countable as a + political meeting on election night. + </p> + <p> + There were thousands of these lights, but whether five, ten, or twenty + thousands, I will not pretend to say. There was a four-inch candle in each + lantern, and the aggregate of illumination was sufficient to make the way + unmistakably clear. + </p> + <p> + The open field as we approached it, was on the left of the road, and + opposite, on the right hand, was the vice-regal palace known as the + Kasr-el-Ali. + </p> + <p> + Over the road or street in front of the palace, was a sort of arch of + triumph, and this was covered with a profusion of lanterns. There were + four or five rows of them; the lower one red, the next green, and the rest + of other colors, so that the combined effect was quite picturesque and had + a great deal of Oriental brilliancy about it. + </p> + <p> + The street was full of carriages, and the policemen had no easy work to + keep the double files in place. Then there were crowds of pedestrians and + equestrians, <i>i.e.</i>, if a man mounted on a donkey can be called an + equestrian—and it was no easy <span class="pagenum">643</span><a + name="link643" id="link643"></a>matter to work one’s way through the + struggling mass. But luckily it happens that an Arab crowd is a + good-natured and non-pushing one, and by a use of time and patience we + managed to get along. We were borne on the current into the field where + carriages were not allowed to penetrate, and once inside we dismounted and + left the donkeys and their drivers to wait till we were ready to return to + the boat. + </p> + <p> + Two sides of the field were bounded by fences, and the other two by tents, + each tent quite open at the end next the field. There were three or four + bands of music in as many places, and each band played without much regard + for the others. + </p> + <p> + The heavens were ablaze with the glare of rockets, and there were + Catherine wheels and composite pieces on frames in countless numbers. On + every side you heard expressions of astonishment and delight, just as you + hear them under similar pyrotechnic circumstances in New York or + elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + The contrast between the solemn stillness which reigned amid the mighty + ruins of the temples, tombs, and cities of the upper Nile, which we had so + lately visited, and the brilliancy of the scene we were now gazing upon, + excited tumultuous emotions, which I will not stop to analyze. We hastened + forward, and in a few minutes succeeded in pushing our way into the centre + of the crowd. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0264" id="linkimage-0264"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5660.jpg" alt="5660 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5660.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">644</span><a name="link644" id="link644"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0265" id="linkimage-0265"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0661.jpg" alt="0661 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0661.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0051" id="link2HCH0051"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LI—THE WEDDING OF THE KHEDIVE’S SON.—ENJOYING A + MONARCH’S HOSPITALITY. + </h2> + <p> + <i>High Jinks in the Egyptian Capital—Dancing Horses—Arabian + Blooded Steeds—Treading the “Light Fantastic Toe”—Bedouin + Riders—The Mysterious Cage—Egyptian Prima Donnas—A Spice + of the Arabian Nights—A Silken Palace—Headquarters of the + Khedive—Thoughtless Intruders upon Royalty—A Glimpse of the + Princes Royal—The Heir of the Throne of Egypt—His Appearance, + Dress, and Character—A Cordial Invitation—Partaking of the + Khedive’s Hospitality—A Turkish Comedy—A Free Lunch—End + of the Festival.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">N</span>EAR the entrance + of the field, of which I have spoken, there was a platform twelve or + fifteen feet high, and twenty-five or thirty feet square, where a dozen + acrobats were performing by the light of a row of open pots of burning + oil. + </p> + <p> + A little farther on there was an exhibition of dancing horses. A pace was + set off with a surrounding of ropes and stakes, and into this space the + horses were led, two or three, sometimes half a dozen, at a time. The + rider then took his place in the saddle, flourished a spear, and the dance + began. You remember what Dr. Johnson said about a dog that walked on his + hind legs: It was a very bad imitation of upright walking, and you wonder + not at the way he does it, but that he does it at all. It was so with this + equine dance. The animals were of pure Arabian stock and had been well + trained, and showed great intelligence; but after all, when you considered + the performance from a terpsichorean point of view, it wasn’t much. + Some Arabic music was played, and the horses seemed to be keeping time to + it, though the real fact was that the time was kept by the rider. It was + the <span class="pagenum">645</span><a name="link645" id="link645"></a>sort + of thing that most of us have seen at the circus, and not equal to what we + sometimes see in that entertainment. The riders were dressed like Bedouins + of the desert, but were really some of the Khedive’s cavalry, + attired for the occasion, to make them more picturesque. A very few + moments sufficed to satisfy us with the performance. + </p> + <p> + The next thing that attracted our attention was a large crowd around a + sort of cage about ten feet square, and near the cage several musicians + were standing, and playing an Arab air of a rather doleful character. + Guards with rattan canes kept the assemblage from approaching too near, + and I must do the crowd the credit to say that the native portion of it + did not make any attempt to overstep the bounds. Not so the strangers, of + whom we were two; we wanted to investigate and didn’t heed the + guards until they called us to order and motioned for us to fall back. + </p> + <p> + The sides of the cage were of lattice-work, and not unlike the lathed + walls of a room before the plaster is laid on. We could see forms moving + within, but could not make out whether they were men, women, or beasts. + The instrumental music ceased what was evidently an overture, as it soon + struck up again, and this time there was an accompaniment of voices from + the interior of the cage. Now the mystery was explained. + </p> + <p> + In the Orient it is not considered proper for women to speak in public on + the stage, or even to sing there. They have no Nilssons or Pattis there, + and neither have they a Miss Anthony or Mrs. Stanton. The Orient does not + trouble itself about women’s rights; in fact there are very few + women’s rights there of any sort, and as for the men’s rights, + they are scarce enough. This cage that we saw was a Steinway Hall or + Academy of Music, and the women that sang there were inside, where the + eyes of men could not reach them. They could peer through the openings and + see the crowd, but the crowd couldn’t peer through the openings to + see them. The guards were very watchful, and kept the masculine eyes from + approaching too near the sacred enclosure. We couldn’t throw + bouquets or kiss our hands to the fair singers, and there was no obliging + usher who would undertake to convey a note to the <i>prima donna</i>, + begging the honor of an introduction. I don’t think much of the + Oriental opera. The music had no <span class="pagenum">646</span><a + name="link646" id="link646"></a>charms to soothe my Occidental breast, and + even had such been the case, it would have lost much by the concealment of + the singers. Think of going to a concert in New York or London, where the + performers are hid behind a grating or obliged to sing through a curtain + impervious to vision! Give me the opera of the Occident, where you can see + the singers. + </p> + <p> + In all parts of the field the people were collected in crowds, + particularly around the tents, which seemed to be the centres of + attraction. + </p> + <p> + I may as well say something about all the tents, and what they were there + for. They were supposed to be tents of repose and refreshment, and each + person who visited the field of the festivities was supposed to be the + guest of the Khedive. Readers of the Arabian Nights will remember that the + rulers whose careers are there recorded, were constantly giving + entertainments to the people, just as the Roman emperors did in their day, + and just as some of the rulers in Europe are accustomed to do at the + present time. Many of the customs of the time of the Arabian Nights are + continued in Mohammedan countries at the present day, but the fêtés are + less magnificent than of old, for the reason that money is less abundant. + </p> + <p> + Everything was free in the show I am describing; lamps, music, fireworks, + acrobats, dancing horses, and tents, were paid for out of the Khedive’s + purse, and it was emphatically <i>his</i> blowout. + </p> + <p> + The tents were a part of the entertainment; that on the extreme left of + the field was of silk, and had rich divans and carpets in the interior, + and the one next to it was nearly but not quite as magnificent in material + and decorations. As we moved towards the right we found the tents steadily + diminishing in luxury; the last of the lot was fitted with common chairs + and uncushioned divans, and had the earth for a carpet. A placard or sign + in front of the entrance indicated the use of each tent and the persons to + whom it was appropriated. + </p> + <p> + Beginning on the left, the tents were appropriated as follows: First, the + Khedive and his sons; second, the corps diplomatique; third, judges and + law officials. Then there was a tent each to the ministers of war, navy, + foreign affairs, finance, etc. Then <span class="pagenum">647</span><a + name="link647" id="link647"></a>there was a tent for each of the following + departments and classes: Military and naval officers; court and staff + officers; engineer’s staff; custom-house officials; higher courts; + clergy—Mohammedan clergy, Arab and Coptic clergy, Christian clergy; + city officials; police officials; school officials; railway officials; + merchants of higher class; builders and architects; medical men; merchants + of Cairo; merchants of Alexandria; merchants of other parts of Egypt; + officials of small towns; gentlemen of upper Egypt; gentlemen of lower + Egypt; and last, the public in general, to whom four tents were assigned. + </p> + <p> + Each tent had several attendants, one of whom—the chief—was + supposed to represent the Khedive, and to entertain visitors in his name. + We thoughtlessly endeavored to enter the first tent, where the Khedive’s + sons had just arrived with a numerous following of staff officers, but the + guards kept us back. The two youths were sipping coffee and chatting with + those around them; the elder, the heir to the throne, has a pleasing face, + and appeared quite vivacious, but the second was a trifle too fat and + stout to have any very expressive lines about his features. A few evenings + later I had an introduction to both of them, followed by a chat of a + quarter of an hour, principally with the elder. He speaks French fluently, + and has an easy, polished manner quite unlike the traditional gravity of + the Oriental. His dress is entirely European, with the exception of the <i>fez</i>, + and his general appearance reminds one more of Europe than of the drowsy + East. Great care has been bestowed on his education, and when he comes to + the throne he will not be unaware of his duties and responsibilities. + </p> + <p> + Several officers of the diplomatic corps were in the tent appropriated to + them, and were sipping coffee and smoking cigars and cigarettes in an + easy, unconcerned way. A few screens had been set up at one side of the + tent to form an extempore theatre, where half a dozen actors were giving a + Turkish comedy. I say <i>actors</i> for the reason that though two women + were in the piece, their characters were sustained by men so well + disguised in dress, voice, and manner, that their sex would not be + suspected. + </p> + <p> + The diplomats paid very little attention to the play, and the most + appreciative part of the audience was that which stood out<span + class="pagenum">648</span><a name="link648" id="link648"></a>side the + ropes and could not get in. We endeavored to gain admission to tent after + tent, but were politely but firmly kept back until we reached the one + appropriated to the engineer staff, where the representative of the + Khedive spoke to us in French and invited us to walk in. An attendant was + ordered to bring us coffee and another to bring us cigars or cigarettes at + our choice, and we were shown to seats on the divans. We crossed our legs + in Oriental style, and thus made a favorable impression that secured us a + second cup of coffee before we left. + </p> + <p> + From this tent onward we were welcomed at all, but we were quite satisfied + after visiting three or four, as etiquette required that we should take + coffee whenever we sat down, and the coffee of the East is like Sam Weller’s + veal pie, “werry fillin.” We had a good taste of Oriental + hospitality, and were not at all displeased with the courtesy that was + shown us. + </p> + <p> + All foreigners who were on the ground were treated with similar liberality + and coffee, but the general populace was not allowed to enter any of the + tents except those specially assigned to it. + </p> + <p> + Returning to the front of the Diplomatic tent I found the Turkish comedy + still in progress and the diplomats as inattentive as before. While we + were standing near the ropes our Consul-General, Mr. Beardsley, caught + sight of me and came out to shake hands. The instant he spoke to me the + guards made way and escorted Gustave and myself into the tent and were as + civil to us as to any of the accredited occupants. The attendants brought + coffee and cigars on the instant; the coffee was better and the cigars + were of much finer quality than those we had received in the tents further + down the line The divans were softer and the carpet was real Turkey that + must have cost many piastres to the square yard. We reclined in front of + the improvised theatre, and pretended to be much interested in the play, + thinking that was the proper thing to do. Mr. Beardsley explained that we + would offend nobody, not even the actors, by paying no attention to the + show, and as we could not understand the dialogue, we very soon became as + careless and unobservant as anybody else. + </p> + <p> + Turkish comedy must be a tame affair according to Western ideas, and I + would not advise any enterprising manager to import <span class="pagenum">649</span><a + name="link649" id="link649"></a>a company from Constantinople or Cairo + under the belief that he could make a sensation and with it a fortune. The + recitations were monotonous and the plot was exceedingly simple as Mr. + Beardsley explained it, and had the usual mixture of love and jealousy + that we find in comedies all over the globe. + </p> + <p> + “It is fortunate for you,” said he with a smile, “that + you do not understand Turkish dialogue. Your sensibilities might receive a + shock from some of the allusions which are rather too indelicate for the + English or American stage.” + </p> + <p> + “Where ignorance is bliss ‘tis folly to be wise,” saith + the old proverb. We drank our coffee and smoked our cigars undisturbed by + the improprieties we could not comprehend. + </p> + <p> + Cakes and sweetmeats were brought but we declined them, and soon followed + Mr. Beardsley to the outer gate where his carriage awaited him. Bidding + him good night we returned to the enclosure and stumbled upon a large tent + standing apart from the rest. Investigating this we found that it was a + restaurant with what a New Yorker would call a free lunch standing ready, + for those who were hungry. The bill of fare was not extensive, but + consisted of Arab stews of mutton and goat’s flesh, and of two or + three dishes in which rice was a prominent ingredient. We were invited to + enter but declined as we had had all the Arab dishes we wanted during our + Nile journey. + </p> + <p> + When the hereditary prince was married the restaurants were more numerous + and better supplied than on the present occasion, and I was told that in + one of them there was a free service of champagne to all foreigners. No + really good Mohammedan drinks wine—his religion forbids it—but + they are not very straight-laced in Egypt, and you not unfrequently find + steady drinkers who between their glasses repeat reverentially the Moslem + formula “<i>La illah, il Allah; Mohammed yessul illah!</i>” + (There is no God but God and Mohammed is the Prophet of God.) The East is + fast becoming civilized. As I have before said, many Orientals who would + have been horrified at the thought twenty years ago will now treat their + wives as though they were human beings, and do not hesitate to get drunk + when occasion offers. New England missionaries and New England rum are + more popular in the Orient than they were formerly. <span class="pagenum">650</span><a + name="link650" id="link650"></a>But while I have been talking, the + pyrotechnics have burned out, the musicians—Arab and Occidental—have + ended their strains, the tent-lamps are burning dimly, the candles in the + Chinese lanterns are flickering, the acrobats and singers have + disappeared, and the crowd is dispersing. So we will to our donkeys and + gallop back to our boat moored against the bank of the lotos-bearing Nile, + and in the quiet of its cabins will fall into a well-earned sleep to be + filled with dreams of a gala night in Egypt. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0266" id="linkimage-0266"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5667.jpg" alt="5667 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5667.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">651</span><a name="link651" id="link651"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0267" id="linkimage-0267"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0668.jpg" alt="0668 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0668.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0052" id="link2HCH0052"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LII—WOMEN AMONG THE MOHAMMEDANS—LIFE IN THE HAREM. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Polygamy Among the Turks and Arabs—A Full-Stocked Harem—Unveiling + the Women—Romantic Adventure—A Brief Flirtation—The + “Light of the Harem”—Love at First Sight—How + Egyptian Women Dress—Some Hints to the Ladies—Wearing Trowsers—Robes, + Caftans, and Peaked Shoes—Rainbow Colors—How they Dress their + Hair—Crowned with Coins—A Walking Jewelry Shop—The + Pretty Egyptienne Orange Girl—Street Costume—Paris Fashions in + the Khedive’s Ilarem—Beauties Riding Donkeys Man Fashion—How + they Go Shopping—Animated Bales of Dry Goods—Black Eyes in a + Bundle of Silks—Marriage Brokers—How they Dispose of their + Daughters in the East—A Turkish Courtship—A Donkey Driver + Gives an Opinion—The Wedding and the Honeymoon—Divorces in + Egypt—An Easy Process—Many-Wived Men.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE Mohammedan + religion allows four wives to each masculine believer, but there is no + limit to his number of brevet or spiritual wives. Twenty-five years ago + every well-to-do Turk considered it necessary for him to have the legal + complement in the matrimonial line, and he was not up to the social high + water mark unless he had a well-stocked harem. But the West and its + customs have invaded domestic, as they have invaded commercial life Many + respectable Turks have adopted monogamous habits, and live happily with + one wife. True, they may have a liberal number of slaves in their harems, + and these slaves may be pretty and attractive to an extent not approved by + the lady of the house. + </p> + <p> + But the fact that monogamy is endurable, and has no social stigma attached + to it, shows to what an extent the East has been influenced by western + ideas. All Oriental women must go veiled <span class="pagenum">652</span><a + name="link652" id="link652"></a>in public, but it is observable that the + veil is thinner than of old, and a woman of the upper classes may now go + abroad with perfect propriety, wearing a veil so diaphanous that the + features are clearly discernible through it. + </p> + <p> + Here is a little story—you may call it a confession if you like, but + please consider it confidential. + </p> + <p> + One afternoon two of us—my companion was a handsome young man—were + taking a stroll in one of these Oriental cities, and came upon a blockade + of vehicles, equestrians, donkeys, and pedestrians, just as we might + happen upon a blockade in Broadway or Fourteenth street. There was a gay + carriage, with a gorgeous driver managing a pair of spirited horses, and + in the carriage were two richly-dressed and veiled ladies. A heavy and + rather stupid looking eunuch was on the box by the driver’s side, + and both he and the driver had their attention diverted by the blockade. + We edged up to the carriage under pretence of dodging a passing camel, + and, rude foreigners that we were, peered inside. + </p> + <p> + Through the faint gauze I could see that both women were pretty. I said so + in French to my companion; the ladies laughed and one of them made an + inclination of her head toward the black fellow on the box. I nodded to + indicate that he was not looking, and when satisfied that all was right, + she quickly raised her veil and showed us a face as pretty as any we had + seen for many weeks. We had only a momentary glance, but it was enough to + photograph that pretty face on our memories. + </p> + <p> + There was a clear, transparent skin, finely-cut features of true + Circassian type; there were rounded cheeks, eyes of melting softness, and + eye-brows that slightly pencilled, gave the eye a fullness it would not + have otherwise possessed. She smiled as she raised her veil, and the smile + produced the most exquisite dimple and revealed a set of teeth that a + belle of London or New York might have envied. + </p> + <p> + “<i>Bien merci, Madame</i>,” said I, in a low tone; “<i>Comme + vous êtes belle?</i>” + </p> + <p> + She smiled again and nodded as she dropped her veil. Just then the colored + gentleman on the box caught sight of us, and shouted “<i>Empshy!</i>” + in no pleasing voice. Fearing to bring <span class="pagenum">653</span><a + name="link653" id="link653"></a>trouble upon the fair lady who was + destined to be the subject of our thoughts and dreams until another pretty + face should come in our way, we moved off and left the carriage to emerge + from the blockade. + </p> + <p> + But we looked back once and caught the flutter of a handkerchief, and a + glimpse of the delicate hand that held it. + </p> + <p> + Is not the East becoming civilized when such an incident as this is + possible? No fashionable girl in American society could show more + readiness for a flirtation with a stranger than did that pretty Orientale. + </p> + <p> + While in Egypt I received a letter from an American lady, in which I was + thus commanded: + </p> + <p> + “How do the Egyptian women dress? I want to know all; and if you don’t + tell me, you shall never be forgiven.” + </p> + <p> + To hear, under such circumstances, is to obey. + </p> + <p> + Before receiving that letter I had contented myself with looking at the + pretty faces of the Egyptian women, for many of them <i>are</i> pretty. + They are rather vain of their beauty, and thus unlike their sex in all + other countries. Many of them keep the word of promise to the ear, but + break it to the hope, as I have already explained, by wearing veils of + such a slight texture that the features are clearly discernible through + it. + </p> + <p> + It is not considered polite to look at Moslem ladies when out for a + promenade; at any rate, such is the Koran’s injunction to the + faithful, and they are generally careful to observe it. But I was of the + infidel race, could not read the Koran, and furthermore was carried away + by that fatal attribute of my sex, curiosity. What wonder, then, that I + violated the Egyptian code of etiquette, and embraced every opportunity to + see the faces of the Oriental beauties? + </p> + <p> + On the receipt of that letter I invoked the aid of an American lady + residing in Cairo, and set about the study of Egyptian fashions. + </p> + <p> + The Egyptian women display considerable taste in their dress, quite as + much as one could expect in a country where there is very little change of + fashion from year to year. + </p> + <p> + They wear an under garment, with very full sleeves reaching to the wrist, + made very loose and full, and which does not in the <span class="pagenum">654</span><a + name="link654" id="link654"></a>least impede the movements of the wearer. + Then comes a pair of very wide trowsers, such as we see in pictures; they + are held around the waist by a running string, and the lower ends are + fastened in the same way just below the knee. The trowsers are made very + long, so that when fastened in the way described they hang down to the + feet. They are of colored, striped, worked, or plain material, and may be + of silk, cotton, or muslin, according to the taste and ability of the + wearer. + </p> + <p> + The next article of apparel, is a vest or wrapper of the same material as + the trowsers. It fits the body with reasonable closeness, and is made to + button down the front to a little below the waist, from which point it is + open, and it is also open at the sides from the hips downward. According + to the strict rule of the Orient, this garment should reach to the floor + when the wearer stands erect, but many ladies wear it in the form of a + loose jacket reaching only to the waist and gathered in rather loosely. + </p> + <p> + For the girdle a shawl or embroidered kerchief is folded diagonally, and + tied loosely in such a way that the knots are not visible. The sleeves of + the vest are made much larger than the arm, but are cut open below the + wrist so that they do not interfere with the movements of the hands. + Sleeves not much unlike them, are sometimes the fashion in Occidental + countries. + </p> + <p> + Outside of the foregoing they wear a long dress or <i>caftan</i> of cloth, + silk, or velvet, entirely open in front, hanging loosely and open at the + sides like the vest, but having sleeves that reach only to the wrist. It + is sometimes plain, but is more generally embroidered with gold thread or + colored silk, and it should be of sufficient length to trail on the floor + when the wearer walks about. Sometimes a short jacket or sacque of the + same material as the above garment, and embroidered in a similar manner, + is worn instead of the <i>caftan</i>, particularly in the warm weather + when the latter would be too heavy. + </p> + <p> + Shoes are of red morocco, pointed and turned up at the toes. Stockings or + socks are not generally worn, but in place of them the Egyptian ladies + make use of slippers that fit quite closely. The outer shoes are large + enough to go on over the slippers, and whenever a lady has occasion to + step off the carpet or matting of the inner rooms of the house, she + thrusts her feet into the + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">655</span><a name="link655" id="link655"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0268" id="linkimage-0268"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0672.jpg" alt="0672 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0672.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">657</span><a name="link657" id="link657"></a>large + shoes, or into pattens or clogs that elevate her four or five inches, and + thus lift her skirts from the ground. These pattens are very difficult to + manage, and give the wearer an awkward mincing gait. Adult novices find + them especially inconvenient. In the few times I attempted to wear them, I + think I was never able to walk more than a dozen steps, without falling + down and bringing my head so near them as to illustrate the French + proverb, <i>Les extremes se touchait.</i> + </p> + <p> + The hair is cut short over the forehead, and hangs on each side of the + face to a level with the chin. The rest of the hair is combed so as to + hang down the back, and it is divided into braids. These are from eleven + to twenty-five, according to the wearer’s taste, but the number is + always uneven, since the Egyptian ladies share the belief of Rory O’More, + as recorded in the familiar song. Each braid sustains three cords of black + silk, and to the cords are attached beads or scales of coral, gold, or + silver, and sometimes pearls or even diamonds. Coins are attached to the + ends of the cords, and the general effect is not unpleasant. + </p> + <p> + The cords are sometimes attached to a band of silk, concealed by the hair, + and when thus arranged they can be removed without any disturbance of the + braids. The metal or other ornaments begin just at the base of the neck, + and the cords terminate about a foot farther down. + </p> + <p> + Among the lower classes other ornaments are attached to the head, and hang + down over the forehead and at the side of the face, and sometimes there is + such a profusion of them as to make you think a whole jewelry store has + started on its travels. There was a pretty Egyptienne who used to peddle + oranges around the hotel where I stopped. Her entire head was spangled + around with little <i>plaques</i> of gilded silver, that rattled as she + moved, and made a brilliant effect when she stood or walked in the + sunshine. + </p> + <p> + The head-covering of an Egyptian lady consists of a <i>fez</i> or <i>tarboosh</i>—the + little red cap with a silk tassel which is worn from one end of + Mohammeddom to the other. A kerchief of colored muslin or crape is wound + round the <i>fez</i> and forms a turban something like that worn by the + men, but higher and more conical. On the top of the turban they frequently + place a sort of inverted saucer <span class="pagenum">658</span><a + name="link658" id="link658"></a>of gold or silver gilt, embossed or in + filigree-work, and ornamented with precious stones, or imitations of them. + Every Egyptian lady that can afford the expense has a supply of diamonds, + often of a very poor quality, and those who have not the genuine stones + make a display of artificial ones. Vanity and envy are not unknown in the + land of the Pharoahs. + </p> + <p> + So much for the indoor dress—the “at home” costume. Let + us follow our lady out of the house and into the street. + </p> + <p> + Outside of what we have seen her wearing, she puts on a loose gown with + very wide sleeves, and of rose, pink, or violet silk. Then she dons her + veil, a strip of white muslin covering the face below the eyes and + reaching almost to the ground. The corners are attached to a band that + passes round the head, and the middle is kept well up over the nose by a + narrow strip that goes over the forehead and is fastened to the encircling + band. Then she puts on, if she is married, an outer covering of black silk + that conceals everything but the white veil and the eyes above it. An + unmarried lady wears a similar garment of white, not black silk, or she + may wear a shawl instead of it. This outer garment is exceedingly + inconvenient for a pedestrian excursion, and its use is obligatory only + when the promenade is not to be made on foot. + </p> + <p> + For an out-door excursion the shoes give way to morocco boots, at least + in. theory. But the customs of Europe are gaining ground in the Orient to + the extent that many ladies of Cairo and Constantinople have adopted the + French boot and discarded the Oriental one altogether. Even in Damascus, + the centre of Islam, and far more fanatical than the other cities of the + Orient, the French boot has found a foot-hold, (joke, poor and not + intentional,) and its popularity is increasing. And this may be a good + place to remark that the ladies of the Khedive’s family get a great + many of their fashions from Paris, and very often the <i>yashmak</i>, or + veil, is the only thing about them of a truly Oriental type. And this veil + is not the muslin one that I have described, but the light Turkish veil, + descending only a little below the chin and wound loosely about the face. + Very many of the women of the lower order never conceal their faces, and + many of the water-carriers and those who sell bread, oranges, and other + edibles, in <span class="pagenum">659</span><a name="link659" id="link659"></a>the + streets of Cairo, go barefoot, their dress consisting only of a long gown + reaching to the ankles, and a loose cloak thrown over the head and + shoulders. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0269" id="linkimage-0269"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0676.jpg" alt="0676 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0676.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + When our lady whose costume we have been examining goes out for a + promenade, she generally rides upon a donkey. Of late years carriages have + intruded upon the donkey’s domain, and the natives use them + considerably, but the patient animal is still regarded with respect, and + is a fashionable beast of burden. The saddle for Egyptian ladies’ + use is high and broad, and covered with a small carpet, and our heroine is + seated astride with both feet in <span class="pagenum">660</span><a + name="link660" id="link660"></a>the stirrups. She appears to sit very high + above the animal’s back, and to be in danger of falling off, but is + really quite safe and secure. + </p> + <p> + The donkeys are trained to their work, and move along very easily, with a + motion that inspires confidence in the rider. There is always a man on + one, and frequently on each side of the beast, and he is very watchful, + knowing the trouble that would come to him should any accident befall his + precious charge. + </p> + <p> + Generally all the ladies of a single harem go out together, so that the + sight of two, three, or four persons thus equipped is more frequent than + that of one alone. I do not mean that all the women of a single group are + necessarily wives of one man; they may be his wife’s sisters, or + mother; in fact, the same relation may exist as among the feminine members + of an English or American family. + </p> + <p> + Many Mohammedans are monogamous, and the notions of the Occident in regard + to plurality of wives are every year becoming more and more in vogue + through the Orient. Many of the Cairene gentlemen have their mothers and + sisters in their families, and some few have their mothers-in-law. It is + proper to remark that the views of the Orient on the mother-in-law + question do not differ materially from those of the Occident. + </p> + <p> + A lady in her out-of-door dress, and mounted on a donkey, appears far more + like a bale of goods than like a human being. Especially is this the case + if a slight wind is blowing and she is riding against it, or if the air is + still and she rides faster than a walk. The silken wrapper is puffed out + like a balloon, and sometimes appears to be three or four feet in + diameter. + </p> + <p> + At my first view of a private harem taking its promenade, I asked a friend + what those donkeys were laden with. + </p> + <p> + “The most valuable goods in Cairo,” he replied. “Without + them Egypt would soon cease to exist.” + </p> + <p> + “Really!” I said. “And what are they?” + </p> + <p> + Before he could answer, one of the bundles turned in my direction, and I + saw a pair of lustrous black eyes above a veil. I was enlightened, and had + no more questions to ask. + </p> + <p> + A stranger in a Mohammedan city is sure to have his curiosity aroused, + before he has been there many days, on the subject of <span class="pagenum">661</span><a + name="link661" id="link661"></a>marriage. Wedding processions are quite + numerous; in a single afternoon’s promenade in Cairo I have seen as + many as half a dozen. Naturally, the sight of such a procession leads one + to ask about the marriage customs. + </p> + <p> + Among the Moslems, marriages are generally arranged by brokers, though not + always so. There are some love-matches in which the parties become + attached to each other without the introduction of a third party, but they + are by no means common. When a man has reached the marrying age he is + expected to enter the matrimonial state, unless prevented by poverty or + some other impediment, and it is considered improper, and even + dishonorable, for him to refrain from so doing. + </p> + <p> + If a marriageable youth has a mother, she describes to him the girls of + her acquaintance, and enables him to decide whom to take to his house and + home. If he has no mother, and frequently when he has one, he engages a + woman whose profession is that of <i>Khat-beh</i>, or marriage-broker; she + has access to harems where there are marriageable women, and is employed + by them quite as often as by the men. She receives fees from one party and + frequently from both. + </p> + <p> + Observe the superiority of Christendom over Islam. In our own country + feminine match-makers are numerous, but they work without pay. The only + reward they expect or desire is the satisfaction of having made two people + happy—or miserable. For the result of the marriages they cause, they + generally care as little as do their Moslem sisters. + </p> + <p> + The Moslem broker goes to the harems, accompanied by the mother or other + feminine relations of the young man; she introduces them as ordinary + visitors, but gives a sly hint as to the object of their call. If they do + not like the appearance of the maiden they plead many calls to make, and + cut short their stay, but if satisfied, they come to business at once, and + ask how much property, personal or otherwise, the young lady possesses. + When these facts are ascertained, they depart, with the intimation that + they may call again. + </p> + <p> + It is a strange peculiarity of Moslem countries that a rich girl can find + a husband more readily than can a poor one. I am sure such a thing was + never heard of in England or America. <span class="pagenum">662</span><a + name="link662" id="link662"></a>The young man hears the report of the + broker, and, if satisfied, he sends her again to the harem to state his + prospects in life, and give a personal description of himself. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0270" id="linkimage-0270"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0679.jpg" alt="0679 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0679.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The broker is not particular to confine herself to facts, and indulges in + that hyperbole for which the Orient is famed. Her client may be a very + ordinary youth, with no property of consequence, and whom she has never + seen three times in her life. She strikes an attitude before the maiden, + and says: + </p> + <p> + “O, my daughter! he has heard of you, and his heart is heavy for + love of you. He is handsome as the moon, and his eyes sparkle like the + stars; he has a form and figure which all the world envy, and he has + wealth surpassing all that Aladdin’s Lamp could bestow. He will buy + the finest house in Cairo; you will be his <span class="pagenum">663</span><a + name="link663" id="link663"></a>thought by day and his dream by night, and + his whole time will be devoted to loving and caressing you.” + </p> + <p> + It is customary for parents to obtain a daughter’s consent to a + marriage, but this is not at all necessary, and very often is considered a + mere trifle not worth regarding. Sometimes the father interferes when he + discovers that the proposed husband is poor, or has a bad temper; any + slight objection of this sort makes <i>pater familias</i> whimsical, and + serves as a stumbling block. He frequently insists that a younger daughter + shall not be married before an elder one, and sometimes the broker + describes a young and charming maiden to the anxious youth while she + negotiates the match for her elder and less attractive sister. If he + subsequently complains, she assures him that it is all in the family, and + says he can imagine that he has wedded the beauty by wedding her sister. + </p> + <p> + Among the middle and upper classes the man never sees the face of his + bride until the marriage ceremony is concluded. This excellent custom + greatly facilitates business, as it does away with any absurd notion he + may have about beauty. + </p> + <p> + When the preliminaries are settled, the bridegroom calls upon the girl’s + “<i>Wekeel</i>,” or deputy, and concludes the contract. This + deputy is her nearest male relative, or her guardian, and his special duty + is to fix the terms of the dowry which the husband is to pay. This varies + according to the wealth and position of the parties; the least sum allowed + by law is equal to about five English shillings, and this is + indispensable. + </p> + <p> + Among respectable tradesmen and people of the middle classes, fifty or + seventy-five dollars will suffice, and there is almost always a great deal + of haggling before the amount of the dowry is fixed. From the necessity of + paying something to the bride’s family, the youths not unnaturally + speak of marriage as “buying a wife.” A donkey-driver whom I + employed occasionally in Cairo, used to discourse upon the matter as + follows: + </p> + <p> + “I save money for buy wife. When I save three pounds I buy wife, one + wife. I now have save two pounds. I have wife next year.” + </p> + <p> + The contract between bridegroom and deputy is nearly always verbal, but in + presence of three or more witnesses. The first <span class="pagenum">664</span><a + name="link664" id="link664"></a>chapter of the Koran is recited by them in + unison, and certain prayers or other formulae are repeated, and the + bridegroom is fairly “hooked.” Before they separate they fix + the night when the bride is to be taken to the bridegroom’s house. + </p> + <p> + Eight or ten days pass away. He sends presents to <i>her</i>, and she and + her family are busy preparing linen, carpets, clothing, and other items of + an outfit for the bride, so that all the dowry and generally much more is + expended for her use. The articles thus bought belong to her under all + circumstances, and she takes them away in case she is divorced. + </p> + <p> + Two or three nights before the wedding the bridegroom hangs lanterns in + front of his house to indicate what is coming, and these lanterns remain + there till after the wedding. On the last night of his bachelorhood he + gives a party, and it is a pleasing custom of the country that the persons + invited to this party are expected to bring or send presents, so that the + entertainment generally pays for itself, and very handsomely, too. + </p> + <p> + Traces of this custom are found in American weddings, where the relations + and friends of the victims are expected to “come down” with + valuable articles that may be useful in housekeeping, and at the same time + will “spout” well at the pawnbroker’s. + </p> + <p> + The day before the bride is to be brought home she goes to the bath; her + feminine friends and relatives accompany her in procession. In front are + the musicians; then come married relatives; then unmarried girls and then + the bride. + </p> + <p> + She walks under a canopy of bright colored silk, carried by four men who + sustain a pole at each corner. The canopy is open in front, but closed on + the other sides and the bride walking beneath it is completely concealed + by her dress which generally consists of red silks or a red cashmere shawl + over her ordinary clothing. Two of her friends walk with her under the + canopy, one on each side and the procession is ended by a couple of + musicians and the rag-tag of small boys that adhere to processions in all + parts of the globe. + </p> + <p> + The party remains several hours in the bath which is generally hired for + the occasion, and they sometimes have a grand feast there. Then they + return to her house and have another feast, and on the following afternoon + she is taken to the bridegroom’s <span class="pagenum">665</span><a + name="link665" id="link665"></a>house in a procession similar to that of + the bath. She is conducted to the harem; her friends sup with her and then + depart. + </p> + <p> + The same evening the bridegroom submits himself to the manipulations of + his barber, and then goes to one of the mosques accompanied by musicians, + torch-bearers, and friends. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0271" id="linkimage-0271"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figright" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/8682.jpg" alt="8682 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/8682.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He says his prayers, goes home, sups with his friends and leaves them + after a time to their pipes and coffee while he proceeds to the harem. + There he finds the bride and her attendant. The latter retires; the + bridegroom lifts the veil from the bride’s head and for the first + time sees her face. + </p> + <p> + So much for the forms of courtship and marriage. + </p> + <p> + Another important element of matrimony is divorce, and it is more + prevalent than in our own country for the reason that it is easier. + Indiana and other states famous for their facilities for unsplicing + married couples might learn something from benighted Egypt and something + in the language of the popular advertisement “to their advantage.” + Divorce is fashionable and every respectable man must indulge in it. + </p> + <p> + The first few days of my stay in Cairo our party employed a guide whom we + found at the hotel. He was an intelligent Mohammedan speaking French quite + well, and his certificates of character were most flattering. While I was + questioning him about marriage customs he declared with no appearance of + regret in any form: <span class="pagenum">666</span><a name="link666" + id="link666"></a>"I have had nine wives and am now living with my tenth. + When I don’t like a wife I divorce her.” + </p> + <p> + The whole story is told in the last sentence of his remark—“When + I don’t like a wife I divorce her.” The only form of divorce + necessary is for the husband to say to the wife in the presence of a + single witness, “I divorce you.” No residence in Chicago or + Indianapolis is necessary; there are no lawyers to be engaged and no fees + to be paid; no troublesome affidavits about im-compatibility of temper and + the like are to be signed, nor must one stretch his conscience in making + oath to any document. Say only “I divorce you,” and the work + is accomplished. + </p> + <p> + As a consequence of these facilities the people of Egypt are very much + married. Men can be found in Cairo by the hundred who have had as many as + twenty or thirty wives in half that number of years, and women who have + had the same plurality of husbands in a similar time. But divorced women + are not considered as desirable as those who have never been married, and + consequently these frequent divorces fall more heavily on them than upon + men. The Khedive is well aware of the debasing effect of the marriage laws + and has improved them in several ways. + </p> + <p> + Polygamy is becoming less popular every year, and would probably die out + altogether in course of time if it were not expressly sanctioned by the + Koran. + </p> + <p> + The legal number of wives is four, but not one man in five hundred in + Cairo or Constantinople avails himself of the privilege. A Mohammedan whom + I questioned one day on the subject of polygamy made the following reply: + </p> + <p> + “I have one time two wife. Now I have one wife. One wife make house + enough warm. Two wife make house so hot you bake bread in all times and no + fire. You have three wife,—Bismillah,—house hot so no man live + there.” + </p> + <p> + The mother-in-law has the same popularity among husbands in Moslem + countries that she enjoys in more western lands. Most men there prefer to + marry women whose mothers are dead and who have no near relatives of their + own sex, and some husbands forbid their wives to see any women except + those who are related to the lord and master of the house. But this latter + rule is very seldom enforced. + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">667</span><a name="link667" id="link667"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0272" id="linkimage-0272"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0684.jpg" alt="0684 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0684.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0053" id="link2HCH0053"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LIII.—WINTER ON THE NILE—THE KHAMSEEN AND ITS EFFECTS—BEDOUIN + LIFE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Winter in Egypt—A soft and balmy air—A Rainstorm on the + Nile—An Asylum for Invalids—The Month of Flowers—The + “Khamseen” What is it?—A blast as from a Furnace—Singular + effects of the South Wind—A Sun like Copper and a Sky like Brass—A + cloud of Sand—Eating Dirt—Fleeing from the Khamseen—How + the Laboring classes live—Hungry but not Cold—Oriental Houses—An + Excursion to Heliopolis—Habits of the Bedouins—A Fastidious + People—Life in a Bedouin Encampment—Among the Obelisks—How + they were brought Five Hundred Miles—The Madonna-Tree.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE winter climate + of Egypt is one of the most charming in the world and some persons say it + is the most delightful to be found anywhere. I met invalids there who had + been at all the famous resorts of the West Indies, at the Sandwich + Islands, in the south of France, in Spain, anywhere and everywhere, and + they give the credit of superiority to Egypt. + </p> + <p> + Unfortunately the winter of 1873-4 was very bad, the worst ever known in + Cairo, so the old residents said. There was a great deal of rain; + altogether during the winter it rained on seventeen days; sometimes only + for a few minutes, and again there were several hours of pouring rain. + Ordinarily there will be from six to ten showers in the course of the + winter, and for the rest of the time there is the clear sky of Egypt, day + after day, and night after night. I was there nearly four months and aired + my umbrella only twice in that time though there were two other occasions + when I would have been glad to air it; I was caught in heavy showers with + no better protection than my cane, and <span class="pagenum">668</span><a + name="link668" id="link668"></a>was forced to go home in a condition like + that of a cat after an involuntary bath. + </p> + <p> + While I was up the Nile there was one slight shower of five minutes or so + one evening and that was all; at the same time there was a heavy rain in + Cairo that converted all the streets into lanes of mud and made it very + difficult to get around. And in Alexandria it is much worse as the rain + falls there many a time when not a drop is known in Cairo. The farther you + go to the South in Egypt the drier you find the climate until you get + beyond the desert country and into the region of the tropical rains. + </p> + <p> + Among the invalids who go there there are some who are greatly benefited, + while others find no relief or are positively injured. At my hotel there + were several ailing persons; some with difficulties of the chest, others + with bad circulation of the blood, others with cerebral affections, others + recovering from broken or sprained limbs, and others with a shortness of + bank account. For the last Cairo is not to be recommended, as it is an + expensive place and the habits of the country require cash payments unless + you can find somebody willing to give you credit. + </p> + <p> + As for the other sufferers, some grow rapidly better, and some grow + rapidly worse until sent away by the doctors, and I have known two cases + of chest difficulty where one man recovered almost entirely, and the other + afflicted almost exactly as his neighbor was obliged to leave in a + fortnight under penalty of furnishing a fee to the coroner if he remained + longer. + </p> + <p> + A resident physician says that bronchial affections, chronic diseases of + the mucous membrane, debilitated circulation and scrofulous diseases of + all kinds are more likely to be subdued in Egypt than most other maladies. + Some consumptives have been entirely restored by a voyage on the Nile and + where a man is in search of a dry atmosphere he can find it for three or + four months without trouble, provided he can undertake the voyage on the + river so as to spend a fortnight or three weeks in Nubia about the + beginning of the year. He will thus avoid the few rains of Cairo and get + back to the city in season for the delightful weather at the end of March. + </p> + <p> + There is an end to the delightful winter climate of Cairo, a climate with + which I was enchanted and regretted exceedingly to <span class="pagenum">669</span><a + name="link669" id="link669"></a>leave. In all the winter I did not need an + overcoat except when going out for a carriage ride, I did not need a fire + in my room and there was no place for making one even had I wanted it. + Every day I was able to sit at an open window and write—sometimes + with my coat off—and the thermometer from eleven o’clock till + an hour before sunset was rarely lower than 68°. The nights are cool and + the mornings particularly so, but as I do not rise early except upon + compulsion the morning freshness did not incommode me. + </p> + <p> + It is necessary to be very cautious about the night air, and one should + not go out in the evening without wrapping the throat in something that + will keep off the dew. But whatever the nights may be, the days are warm + and one can sit in the open air, without danger and with positive comfort, + provided there is no wind blowing! The trees were in full leaf, and during + the month of March there was an abundance of flowers. But early in April + comes the <i>Khamseen</i>. + </p> + <p> + “What is that?” you may possibly ask. + </p> + <p> + Well, early in April, though sometimes not till the middle or end of that + month, there comes a wind from the south, a hot debilitating wind that + makes you feel as stupid as a dead horse, and as cross as a bear whose + ears and tail were cropped yesterday. The mercury goes above par in the + shade, and is at a premium of twenty-five or thirty per cent, in the sun. + Every drop of moisture has been wrung from the atmosphere in its passage + over the desert, and the blast upon you feels like the breath of a + furnace. Everything dries up—furniture cracks; the leaves fall from + the trees; the hair crackles and emits sparks in combing; your newspaper + will rustle and crack as though held over the flame of a lamp; the sheet + of the letter you are writing will curl up, and before you are at the end + of a word of three syllables, the first part of it will have the ink as + dry as though baked in a kiln; and a wet cloth hung at the window dries up + almost instantaneously. If you are in the house, you think you will walk + out, and if you walk out you will wish you had staid in. It is time for + you to settle your hotel bill, and get away from Cairo. + </p> + <p> + This wind is called here the “<i>Khamseen</i>,” but is better + known to the outer world as the <i>simoon</i> or <i>sirocco</i>. It begins + generally <span class="pagenum">670</span><a name="link670" id="link670"></a>by + blowing a single day, and then you have several days of pleasant weather; + then you will have two, three, or four days of wind in succession, and + then an interval of about the same length before another blast sets in. + The natives say there are usually about fifty days of it altogether, and + hence its name, <i>Khamsecn</i> being the Arabic word for fifty. Some + years it is very mild—not more than thirty days of it—and the + next year it may be mild or it may be worse. I didn’t propose to + stay there to find out. I had one day of the <i>Khamseen</i>, and that + satisfied my curiosity. + </p> + <p> + In addition to the heat, the air is full of the finest sand so that the + sun looks like a ball of burning copper, and the sky becomes yellow. The + sand finds its way everywhere; the furniture of the room will be covered + with it; you find it in your soup and in nearly every dish that you eat; + and I was told that it will get inside your watch-cases, even though you + wrap your timepiece in buckskin, and lay it away in the bottom of your + trunk till the sirocco is over. If you have a hollow tooth you can take + enough sand out of it at the end of the <i>Khamseen</i> to fill an + hour-glass. + </p> + <p> + Dost thou like the picture? Methinks I hear your emphatic negation. + </p> + <p> + Strangers generally leave when this desert wind comes, and those of the + residents who can afford it make a trip to Europe, or if not there, to + Alexandria. On the sea-coast there is less wind, and the air is several + degrees cooler than at Cairo. + </p> + <p> + Alexandria is quite a pleasure resort in the summer; the court generally + goes there to put in the warm weather, and sniff the breezes of the + Mediterranean, and the foreign representatives do likewise. The season at + Cairo ends when the court takes its departure; the city of the Caliphs + becomes dull and uncomfortable. What a contrast to the most delightful + winter on the face of the globe! + </p> + <p> + A great deal has been written about the sufferings of the lowest classes + in Egypt, and we have had some wonderful pictures of native distress + painted by travellers. The house of the <i>fellah</i> is a mud hovel, his + clothes are scanty and his food is coarse. He is not liberally paid for + his labor, and he eternally begs for “backsheesh,” not that he + expects always to get it, but from + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">671</span><a name="link671" id="link671"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0273" id="linkimage-0273"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0688.jpg" alt="0688 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0688.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">673</span><a name="link673" id="link673"></a>force + of habit. He might have a cleaner house if he would, but as for his + clothes they are more superfluous than necessary. If it were not for the + prejudices of education, he might go in nakedness and would not suffer; he + would be warm enough in the day time without any clothing, and if he + remained in doors at night he would be equally comfortable. A strip of + cloth around his loins would be enough to protect him under ordinary + circumstances, and if he wants to get himself up luxuriously, he can mount + a long shirt of blue cotton, and the thing is accomplished. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0274" id="linkimage-0274"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0691.jpg" alt="0691 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0691.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The laboring classes doubtless suffer from hunger—were there ever + any laboring classes anywhere that did not?—but they do not suffer + from cold and wet. Hunger here is not accompanied by its two great allies, + cold and rain, and to my mind it is robbed of much of its terror. Is not + the condition of the poor ten times as bad in our great cities in winter + as in summer, solely for the reason that there must be heat and shelter + along with food to keep away suffering? When I look upon this careless + people and remember the advantages of their climate, I think they are to + be envied perpetually by the poor of London or New York. + </p> + <p> + The court is one of the characteristics of an Oriental house. Even the + meanest hovels of the lowest classes have something of the kind. The + passage from the doorway into the court is <span class="pagenum">674</span><a + name="link674" id="link674"></a>usually so contrived that no view can be + had from the street into it; this is sometimes done by the erection of a + wall, or by giving a turn to the passage that leads into the court. Some + houses have one court, others two, and three are not uncommon. If a house + has but one court, it is generally an open space or quadrangle, round + which the apartments for the inmates, and in country places also the sheds + for the cattle, are arranged. In the very poorest of these there is merely + one apartment, and a shed for cattle, and the court or yard is surrounded + with a hedge of thorny boughs, having only one court, of a far superior + kind. Entering into the courtyard you see around you a number of little + buildings, not deficient in convenience, and occasionally presenting a + certain air of elegance—though frequently constructed on no regular + plan. In these are found various little chambers, one piled upon the + other, the half-roof of which always forms a terrace for walking, from + which a little flight of steps or ladder leads to the dwelling-house, or + to the upper terrace. This court is well paved; on one side doors lead to + the apartments of the family, and on the other to those of the servants. + They are often beautified with a number of fragrant trees and marble + fountains, and compassed round with splendid apartments and divans. The + divans are floored and adorned on the sides with a variety of inlaid + marbles wrought in interlacing patterns. They are placed on all sides of + the court, so that at one or other of them, shade or sunshine can always + be enjoyed at pleasure. In the summer season, or when a large company is + to be received, the court is usually sheltered from the heat and + inclemencies of the weather by a curtain or awning, which, being expanded + upon ropes from one wall to the other, may be folded or unfolded at + pleasure. + </p> + <p> + I spent a day delightfully and profitably in making an excursion from + Cairo to Heliopolis, where, in remote antiquity an imperial city stood, + but whose site is now only marked by a few mounds, and by an obelisk + supposed to be the oldest in Egypt. The road leads through fertile + gardens, and irrigated fields of corn and rice, and past many Bedouin + encampments. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs are peculiarly sensitive to noisome smells, and in a city they + may frequently be observed hurrying along with their <span class="pagenum">675</span><a + name="link675" id="link675"></a>nostrils closed by a corner of the + kerchief, to avoid the effluvia which surrounds them. This is one reason + why they always prefer pitching their tents without, to residing within + the walls. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0275" id="linkimage-0275"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0693.jpg" alt="0693 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0693.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + The real Bedouin visits the city only to make purchases at the bazaars, + and he is the most picturesque of all the moving figures in an Eastern + crowd. Strong, but slender in frame, his striped abba hangs easily in + heavy folds over his shoulder, and his dark skin and prominent features, + and keen black eye, all mark the unchanged son of the desert, who belongs + not to the city, but passes through it, indifferent to its conveniences + and luxuries, and despising its customs like his ancestors. In my journey + up the Nile I saw many encampments of genuine Bedouins, and I always found + that an Arab in his encampment is a different being from what he is when + wandering in the desert. Within the former his time is idly passed, + smoking, drinking coffee, and sleeping; yet his steed was always ready + caparisoned at the door of his tent; beside him in the sand was planted + his spear, and at the call of his chief he was ready to vault into his + saddle, and rush forth to battle with all the fire of his nation. + </p> + <p> + From Cairo to Heliopolis the distance is only five or six miles, and a + donkey ride of less than two hours brought us to the foot of the solitary + obelisk that exists to remind us of the once famous “city of the + sun.” The obelisk is of red granite, and must have come from the + quarries of Syene five hundred miles away. It measures sixty-seven feet in + height, and its base is buried several feet in earth, gradually deposited + by successive overflows of the Nile. It is covered with hieroglyphics and + bears the name of Osirtesen I., the most illustrious member of the XIIth + Dynasty, who reigned over both Upper and Lower Egypt. Who executed it, or + sculptured it, or how it was transported to its present site, and erected, + are questions not yet answered. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">676</span><a name="link676" id="link676"></a>A taste + for story-telling is still one of their leading characteristics. They know + no greater pleasure than to assemble together in their encampment, and + seated in front of one of their number, smoke, and listen with the most + intense interest to the exploits of warriors, the adventures of lovers, or + the enchantment of sorcerers, until want of breath and want of sleep put + an end to the tales. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0276" id="linkimage-0276"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0694.jpg" alt="0694 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0694.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">677</span><a name="link677" id="link677"></a>Hard by + there is an old sycamore tree—called the Madonna’s tree—under + which, tradition says, Mary rested with her infant when flying from Herod. + It looks like a stunted tree of enormous growth, as if several trees + springing up side by side had grown together. That the tree as it now + stands is of very great age, there can be no manner of doubt. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0277" id="linkimage-0277"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:15%;"> + <img src="images/5695.jpg" alt="5695 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/5695.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">678</span><a name="link678" id="link678"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0278" id="linkimage-0278"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0696.jpg" alt="0696 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0696.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0054" id="link2HCH0054"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LIV—LAST DAYS IN EGYPT. + </h2> + <p> + <i>The Last Stroll around the Mooskee—Talking to the Donkey-Boys and + Dragomen—A Queer Lot—A Pertinacious Customer—The Judge’s + Expedient—A Little Humbug—Rich American Tourists “in a + Horn”—The Dragoman’s Salutation “Sing Sing!”—Getting + Rid of a Nuisance—Buying Keepsakes—Out of the Desert into a + Garden—Curiosities for Farmers—A Mohammedan Festival—Curious + Sights—Snake Charmers—How they do it—Music-Loving + Reptiles—On an Egyptian Railroad—Pompey’s Pillar—A + Ludicrous Accident—Alexandria, its Sights and Scenes—Climbing + Pompey’s Pillar—A Daring Sailor—An Arab Swindle—Going + on Board the Steamer—Farewell to Egypt.</i> + </p> + <p class="pfirst"> + <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE hot wind from + the desert made itself manifest early in April, and said in terms that + were not to be mistaken “Get out of this.” + </p> + <p> + I took a farewell stroll around the Mooskee, the Esbekeeah, and the + Shoobra road and skirmished for the last time with the donkey boys and + dragomen who infest those places. Among the tribes of ragged, dirty, + vagrant urchins who swarm in the streets of Cairo, the donkey boys head + the list. Every traveller knows them and you hear them spoken of as + “Confounded rascals” or “Bright little fellows” + according to the luck the Frankish traveller has happened to meet among + the species. Occasionally you see boot-blacks with kits similar to their + cousins in more civilized countries, and the two who used to hang around + my hotel in Cairo always ready for “backsheesh” whether they + gave my boots a “shine” or not, were the most unprepossessing + little gamins I ever met. + </p> + <p> + One fellow used to annoy two of us greatly with propositions to enter our + employ; and half a dozen times every day he used to pester us with + proposals, and we endeavored to hire him to let us alone but all to no + purpose. He had performed a slight service for us for which he would take + nothing and he felt that this service entitled him to hang around, and ask + us for recommendations, and try to make a contract with us. We could not + shake him off and one day the Judge hit upon a neat expedient. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">679</span><a name="link679" id="link679"></a>On the + whole I had no regret at parting with the donkey boys and dragomen, + particularly with the latter, who hang around the the hotels at Cairo in + great numbers, and were always ready to agree to take you anywhere you + wish to go. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0279" id="linkimage-0279"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0697.jpg" alt="0697 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0697.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + One of them answered “yes” to my question as to the + possibility of accompanying me to the moon, and offered to undertake the + job for thirty shillings a day and furnish everything. As I was not then + ready <span class="pagenum">680</span><a name="link680" id="link680"></a>for + an aerial voyage I did not pursue the subject, and as he left me alone + after that I conclude that he must have felt offended. + </p> + <p> + “I shall be much obliged,” said the dragoman, “if you + will get me a good party of Americans to go to Jerusalem. I take them + cheap and very well.” And twenty times a day he made this proposal. + </p> + <p> + One day when we saw him standing on the veranda of the hotel—he had + not caught sight of us but was evidently waiting for our appearance—the + Judge walked forward as if he were anxiously looking for the dragoman, and + said, “I have a good thing for you. There may be a party of rich + Americans coming down the Nile, and if you can find them and make a + bargain with them to pay a high price you will be lucky.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, yes,” said Mohammed, his eyes glistening with delight, + “I make good bargain with them, I take them cheap and very well.” + </p> + <p> + “Never take them cheap. High price, the highest,—fifty + shillings a day each, and there ought to be ten of them.” + </p> + <p> + Mohammed clapped his hands with delight as the Judge continued, + </p> + <p> + “They will pay fifty, yes sixty shillings a day if they agree to. + They are very rich and would like to own half the money in America.” + </p> + <p> + “Bismillah! and that be so?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, and you must do the thing in style; silver plated camel for + the old man, and dromedary with six legs for his daughter the princess.” + </p> + <p> + “I give them everything, everything. I take them cheap and very + well. They pay me one hundred shillings a day and shall have what they + just want. When they come?” + </p> + <p> + “I don’t know,” said the Judge doubtfully. “But + you had better go to the landing at Boulak and wait for them.” + </p> + <p> + “No, I waits here in the hotel for them. They come here.” + </p> + <p> + “Doubtful,” said the Judge, “very doubtful. I don’t + know what hotel they will come to and don’t think they will come to + this. You had better go to the landing and wait for them, and then you + will be there all the time you stay in Boulak.” <span class="pagenum">681</span><a + name="link681" id="link681"></a>"I understand, I go to Boulak and find ze + rich American. And what shall I ask his name?” + </p> + <p> + “The Grand Duke of Chicago; about fifty years old, lost his left ear + in a duel, and wears three pairs of eye-glasses. Was decorated by the + Prince of Hoboken five years ago, and always wears his decoration. You + will know him by that—as large as a soup-plate and twice as greasy. + When you see him, step up and say “Sing-Sing,” and he will + understand you know all about him. Sing Sing is one of his palaces.” + </p> + <p> + “I understand and he pay a hundred shillings a day and extra for ze + camels.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, a hundred shillings and camels, food, tents, and dragoman + extra. Will give five hundred pounds “backsheesh” to you + before you start.” + </p> + <p> + Mohammed could wait no longer. The prospect of such a mine to explore was + too good to be lost. He went to Boulak immediately, and during the rest of + my stay I saw him only once, and then he was walking in the morning toward + Boulak to take up his waiting station. I understood afterward that we + really did him a good turn as his stay at Boulak was rewarded with a + customer,—not as good as the Grand Duke of Chicago, but yet a + remunerative one. + </p> + <p> + The day at length arrived for my departure. So I paid a farewell visit to + our excellent representative, Consul-General Beardsley, and to a few other + friends and acquaintances, and in other ways made ready for departure. + </p> + <p> + I spent a last morning in the bazaars and devoted an hour to the purchase + of an oriental necklace and a few other trifles. An hour was the least + time in which I could do the necessary bargaining; in London or Paris it + would have been all over in two minutes. + </p> + <p> + In buying the necklace I left the shop four times and gradually beat the + fellow down to a decent price; he asked less on each occasion that I + approached him, and if I had devoted half a day to the business I might + have done better than I did. I paid him for my purchase a little more than + fifty per cent, of what he demanded at the outset and probably quite as + much as he expected to receive. <span class="pagenum">682</span><a + name="link682" id="link682"></a>I left Cairo by the slow train as I wished + to see the stations along the road, and was in no hurry to be whisked + through by express. Two of us offered a rupee, (fifty cents,) to the + conductor if he would give us the exclusive use of a compartment, and to + make sure that he would carry out his agreement we suggested that we would + pay him at the end of the journey. + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0280" id="linkimage-0280"> </a> + </p> + <div class="figleft" style="width:20%;"> + <img src="images/9700.jpg" alt="9700 " width="100%" /><br /><a + href="images/9700.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </div> + <p> + He was entirely content with the arrangement and carried out his part of + it to perfection. He came to us at every station to see if we wanted + anything, and when we left the car at places where the stops were long, he + carefully locked the compartment and stationed a brakeman to watch it and + make sure that nobody else should enter it. We gave him his rupee at the + last station before reaching Alexandria and saw him no more. + </p> + <p> + He was an Arab with a good-natured face, and as soon as the money was + promised him he appeared to regard it as a sure thing. It is somewhat + uncomplimentary to the natives of this country, that they are more + inclined to trust strangers than each other. If an Egyptian official or + merchant had made a promise like ours the conductor would have paid little + heed to it as the chances would have been against fulfillment, but he + accepted the word of a stranger without hesitation. <span class="pagenum">683</span><a + name="link683" id="link683"></a>Carriage drivers, donkey boys, and boatmen + repeatedly told me “the foreigners always pay what they agree to, + but the natives don’t.” + </p> + <p> + “We like to deal with you even when you make very close bargains + because we feel sure of the money, but it isn’t so with the + Egyptians and Turks.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0281" id="linkimage-0281"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0701.jpg" alt="0701 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0701.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + Cairo faded in the distance. We watched the arrowy spires of the Mosque of + Mohammed Ali till they became the faintest of lines against the sky, and + then went out altogether; we traced the group of mosques that cover the + tombs of the Caliphs and are backed by the sandy hills of the Mokattam, + and we studied the ensemble of mosques and minarets, and palm-trees, as + long as study was possible. Then we turned to the grand old pyramids away + on the western horizon, and when these disappeared we fixed our eyes on + the course of the Nile, and the line that marked the termination of the + fertile land and the beginning of the Desert. + </p> + <p> + The Desert soon disappeared, and we rode through the flat plain, carpeted + with the richest of verdure, and furrowed here and there with great and + small and medium canals. In some fields the crops appeared half grown; in + others they were just beginning, and in others the plows—rude + implements which the most careless farmer in America would disdain—were + at work. <span class="pagenum">684</span><a name="link684" id="link684"></a>The + plow of Egypt is the same in appearance, and it may be the same + identically, that was in use before the Pyramids were built, and before + the foundation of Thebes, with her hundred gates. It is a billet of wood, + pointed at the forward end, and furnished with a beam and an upright, the + latter serving as a handle. A pair of oxen, or buffaloes, are the + propelling power, and the yoke that fastens them together is a straight + stick held in place by ropes or wooden pins. + </p> + <p> + Numerous <i>sakkiehs</i>, turned by oxen or buffaloes, were at work, and + in nearly every instance the animals were blindfolded with pads of coarse + straw-work over their eyes. Frequently we passed villages with mud walls, + and with the general aspect of uncleanliness and discomfort that I had + observed in upper Egypt, and that one observes in nearly all the native + villages. + </p> + <p> + The thermometer stood at 100° in the shade and 118° in the sun, but so + long as we kept in the shade it was not uncomfortable. The dryness of the + Egyptian air makes the heat far more supportable than the same temperature + in New York. I have suffered more at 85° on Manhattan Island than in Egypt + at 100°, and I found it easier to move about there than in an American + atmosphere fifteen degrees cooler. The natives were at work in the fields + without any appearance of discomfort, but I observed that the buffaloes, + where at liberty to do so, had sought the water and were lying there with + only their heads visible. + </p> + <p> + At every station children came out to peddle water, which they carried in + <i>goolchs</i>, or bottles of porous earth. For half a franc we bought one + of these, <i>goolch</i>, water, and all—the girl excepted, though it + is quite possible that a franc or two would have secured her. + </p> + <p> + Our train was long, and consisted of one first-class, one second-class, + and eight third-class carriages. The first and second-class carriages were + only moderately filled, but the third-class were crowded, so that it must + have been anything but comfortable to ride in them. The sides of the + third-class coaches are quite open, so that the passengers get the full + benefit of dust and rain. + </p> + <p> + The most important town passed on this line of railway is Tantah, a place + with many handsome houses and a viceregal palace, and known as the capital + of one of the Delta <span class="pagenum">685</span><a name="link685" + id="link685"></a>provinces. Many of our third-class passengers stopped + there and many others joined us, as it happened to be the time of one of + the three fairs or festivals held here each year. + </p> + <p> + The railway station was crowded with people, the streets were full, and on + the outskirts of the town we could see tents, booths, and crowds, just as + one sees them elsewhere at great gatherings of a rural population for a + fair that is to last several days. There were not a dozen Europeans + visible in the crowd; all were natives, chiefly from the surrounding + region, though many had doubtless come from Cairo and Alexandria. + </p> + <p> + The tents were of all sorts, sizes, and colors, and there were horses, + donkeys, and camels, picketed around them or grazing in the meadow close + at hand. The people were generally in their best clothes, and there was + quite a variety of turbans and flowing robes. The delay of our train for + an hour or more gave us an opportunity to study the crowd and its + peculiarities. + </p> + <p> + January, April, and August, are the months for these festivals, each of + which lasts eight days, and brings together sometimes as many as two + hundred thousand people. Ostensibly they come to pray at the tomb of a + celebrated saint of Islam, none other than Seayyid-Ahmed el-Bedawee, a + sort of Moslem Big Indian, who flourished about seven hundred years ago, + and was buried at Tantah. The pilgrims recite a few prayers at his tomb, + and then attend to fun and business. A large trade is carried on in + horses, camels, and other merchandise, and formerly there was an extensive + commerce in slaves. The sound of Oriental music was borne to our ears, and + we strolled through row after row of tents or booths occupied as <i>cafés</i>, + and the resort of singing and dancing girls, jugglers, story-tellers, and + performers of all kinds. + </p> + <p> + Among the sights, none seemed to draw larger crowds than the + snake-charmers, several of whom were displaying their skill before + admiring audiences. + </p> + <p> + The snake-charmers of Egypt are much like their confreres of the extreme + Orient, but are less famous in the matter of skill and daring. An Egyptian + snake-charmer carries his pets in a bag, and is ready to give a + performance whenever and wherever he can secure a patron. One afternoon, + while in Cairo, I was enjoying my after-dinner cigar and strolling through + the Esbe<span class="pagenum">686</span><a name="link686" id="link686"></a>keeah + Gardens, when along came a man with a sort of satchel over his shoulder + and a girdle confining his frock to his waist. He stopped, and I did the + same. He then took two or three large snakes out of the satchel and hung + the empty receptacle on the fence. The snakes slowly unwound, and to my + astonishment I perceived that they were cobras, the dreaded <i>cobra de + capello</i> of India, one of the most deadly serpents on the face of the + globe. He struck them with a small stick as they were standing erect with + their heads puffed out with rage, and their tongues darting rapidly from + their mouths. He had an attendant who played a sort of rude flute, and the + serpents, who had been trained with the stick, kept an imperfect time to + the music in the undulations of their bodies. The performer picked up the + snakes and allowed them to wind around his arms and neck, and when he had + put them through their paces he restored them to the satchel and asked for + “backsheesh,” as a reward for his and their labors. + </p> + <p> + But the show was not over. I observed that his blue cotton frock bulged + out just above the girdle; and what do you suppose he carried there? + </p> + <p> + He opened the front of his frock or shirt and thrust his hand into the + opening and down to his waist. When he withdrew it he had a dozen or more + small snakes in his grasp, and very deliberately placed them on the + ground. Then he produced another and another handful, until a peck or so + of small serpents were crawling and wriggling before our wondering eyes! + </p> + <p> + The snake-charmers I saw at the festival at Tantah went through pretty + much the same performance as that I witnessed in Cairo, and a very few + moments sufficed to satisfy my curiosity. + </p> + <p> + A great deal of wine is consumed at these festivals, and in the evening + one can see many things to interest and amuse him, as the manners and + customs of the frequenters of the fair are of a very unrestrained + character. It is the right and privilege of a barren woman to visit the + fair at Tantah and pray at the tomb of the saint, and her devotion, + continued through the week of the fair, is generally rewarded as she + desires it should be. Her wish to go to Tantah is one that cannot be + denied without the violation of a custom that has existed for many + centuries. There are other <span class="pagenum">687</span><a + name="link687" id="link687"></a>fairs throughout Egypt similar to the one + at Tantah, but none of them succeed in bringing together such a large + number of people. + </p> + <p> + After leaving Tantah we crossed upon iron bridges the Rosetta and Damietta + branches of the Nile, and sped along over a line of railway as straight as + a sunbeam. There was not much engineering work in building the road, + nothing more than to lay down the track after the construction of a bed + high enough to keep the rails above the height of the annual inundation. + As we approach the coast the country becomes more marshy and unproductive, + and the scenery is decidedly monotonous. For several miles the track is + through a marsh, and on nearing Alexandria we catch sight, on our left + hand, of Lake Mareotis, a shallow body of water much like Lake Lenzalah, + through which the Suez Canal runs after leaving Port Said. + </p> + <p> + We pass near the bank of the Mahmoodieh Canal, which connects Alexandria + with the Nile, and was constructed by order of Mohammed Ali in less than a + year’s time. It cost about three hundred thousand pounds sterling, + and employed a quarter of a million men, of whom twenty thousand died of + plague, hunger, and cholera. The average width of the canal is about one + hundred feet, and its total length is fifty miles—a reasonably + gigantic operation for less than a twelvemonth. + </p> + <p> + The canal was full of boats as we passed it; we could not see them on + account of the high bank, but their masts and sails were visible, and so + we argued that the boats were there. Near Alexandria the banks of the + canal are bordered with pretty villas and gardens for some distance, and + some of the villas are quite picturesque. It has become the fashion for + wealthy Alexandrians to have their residences in this locality, and there + is a watering-place and popular resort known as Ramleh about half an hour’s + ride from the city. The Viceroy has a palace there, and generally resides + in it during a portion of the summer. + </p> + <p> + Our train swept toward the city, passing in sight of Pompey’s + Pillar, and through a collection of houses that form a sort of industrial + suburb. The station is at the extreme west of the town, and is + sufficiently large for all practical purposes, and contained, at our + arrival, the usual array of dragomen, porters, and <span class="pagenum">688</span><a + name="link688" id="link688"></a>other hangers-on. The streets are quite a + contrast to those of Cairo, as they are paved with huge blocks of stone + that have so worn away in places as to make them very rough, and quite + unpleasant for carriage-driving. The pavement was once excellent, but it + has received no attention, and the dust indicates that it is very rarely + swept. The dust flew about in clouds, and my companion said that when he + was last here there were some heavy rains, and where we found dust, he had + found a regular Slough of Despond of mud. I can well believe the mud must + have been something frightful, and a ride through it upon a donkey would + prove to be something serious. + </p> + <p> + One of my acquaintances tells me of being pitched head foremost into six + or eight inches of it after putting on his best clothes and starting out + to make a call, which he indefinitely postponed and returned to his hotel, + where he hung up to dry. He had the satisfaction—on the ground that + misery loves company—of seeing, while on the way back from his + mishap, a gaudily-dressed French woman undergo a similar tumble where the + mud was deeper. Her feathers, and flounces, and laces, and general finery + were sadly bedraggled, and when she emerged, with the aid of a couple of + Arabs, she resembled a canary bird that has passed through a + street-sweeping machine. + </p> + <p> + The city founded by and named for Alexander the Great contains very few + traces of its former magnificence. Cleopatra’s Needle and the + so-called Pompey’s Pillar are the stock sights; the former is a + granite shaft, covered with hieroglyphics, and is far inferior every way + to the obelisks at Karnak and Luxor. More beautiful and better placed is + the Pillar, standing on an elevation near the Mohammedan burying-ground, + and consisting of a base, shaft, and capital, the whole nearly a hundred + feet high, and the shaft alone seventy feet long and nearly ten feet in + diameter. The shaft is a single piece of red granite, highly polished and + elegantly made, the workmanship being far better than that of base or + capital. It is probable that a statue once stood on the pillar, and there + are some old pictures of Alexandria in which the Pillar is represented + with a statue upon it. There is no way of reaching the summit except by a + considerable outlay for ropes and ladders, and also for the necessary + labor of arranging + </p> + <h3> + <span class="pagenum">689</span><a name="link689" id="link689"></a> + </h3> + <p> + <a name="linkimage-0282" id="linkimage-0282"> </a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/0707.jpg" alt="0707 " width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <h5> + <a href="images/0707.jpg"><img src="images/enlarge.jpg" alt="" /> </a> + </h5> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">691</span><a name="link691" id="link691"></a>them. + It has been twice ascended in the present century, once by a party of + English sailors, and once by an enterprising woman. In each instance a + string was stretched over the capital by means of a kite; the string was + then used to draw up a stout cord, the cord to draw up a rope, and the + rope to draw up a ladder. By the ladder the ascent is easy enough, but it + requires a cool head and a sure grasp. + </p> + <p> + A paragraph with the heading “Ancient Alexandria” might be + about as brief as the famous chapter on the snakes of Ireland. Of the + capital that contained a population of half a million, a library of I don’t + know how many thousand volumes, temples, palaces, and piles stupendous, + there are little more than vestiges remaining. Here and there may be found + a few relics; walls and foundations of buildings may be traced in a few + localities, and there are some mutilated statues and other fragments that + have survived the touch of Decay’s Effacing Fingers. + </p> + <p> + From ancient times Alexandria steadily declined, so that at the end of the + last century it had a population of six thousand; during the French and + English occupations it began to improve, but it made its greatest progress + under Mohammed Ali. The successors of that prince have continued to foster + it, and at the present day it is a busy, bustling city of nearly a quarter + of a million inhabitants, of whom one-fourth are Europeans. + </p> + <p> + There is an air of commerce everywhere, and when one arrives at the + railway station and drives through the streets, he realizes that he is in + a seaport long before he has caught sight of the sea, or of the forest of + masts that rise in the harbor. + </p> + <p> + Near the Great Square you can visit the bazaars or shops, where you will + see a reproduction of the sights and scenes of Cairo. + </p> + <p> + The Great Square is a sort of public park, filled with shade-trees and + seats, and having in the centre an equestrian statue of Mohammed Ali. At + each end there is a fountain, and around the square are buildings of a + very substantial character, quite worthy of any great city of modern + times. Everything is modern. There is nothing to remind you of antiquity, + and even the Arabs that cluster around the fountains are nearly all boys, + and seem more modernized than their brethren at Cairo. <span + class="pagenum">692</span><a name="link692" id="link692"></a>As soon as we + were quartered at the hotel, we went to the steamship office to engage our + passage, and having paid for our tickets, concluded it would be well to + visit the ship and examine our quarters. We hired donkeys for a ride to + the Marine, or landing-place, and away we cantered through the streets of + the Arab quarter. There was a crowd of boatmen that wrangled a long time + to secure us, and with such effect that we found a boat to take us to the + ship and back again for sixpence each. + </p> + <p> + The boatmen were mostly Arabs and Maltese, strong, active fellows, whose + rowing abilities are much better than their manners. There are no docks or + wharves to the harbor; the ships must lie out and discharge their cargoes + by means of lighters, and passengers must land and embark in small boats. + The harbor is good without being excellent; the entrance is difficult and + tortuous, and the sea frequently rolls in very uncomfortably. There is an + outside harbor, where most of the foreign ships lie, as the inner one is + rather shallow for them. The outer one is subject to winds and a heavy + sea, but will be greatly improved when the new breakwater, now + constructing, is finished. Hitherto the government has not cared to + improve the entrance of the harbor, as a bad entrance is easier defended + than a good one, but a better sentiment prevails at present, and the + harbor is to be made as good as possible with a fair outlay of money. + </p> + <p> + When we came back to the landing, we had a fair instance of the swindling + tendencies of the Arab donkey-drivers. We had left our beasts there, and + as we had not paid for them, we felt that there was no danger that the + owners would take them away. The instant we touched the steps an urchin + appeared, and behind him was another, each holding a donkey. + </p> + <p> + “Your donkeys is gone,” said the foremost, “and you is + to ride back on this donkeys.” + </p> + <p> + We were about mounting in acceptance of this reasonable statement, but + took the precaution to look around before doing so. Our own beasts and + drivers were a little distance away, and the story of the boy who + announced their departure, proved to be of the most piscatorial character. + The boatmen and donkey-drivers of Alexandria have a worse reputation than + those of any other Egyptian city. <span class="pagenum">693</span><a + name="link693" id="link693"></a>On the shore of the Eastern harbor there + are several cafés, so as to command the marine air and view. We sat a + while in one of these on our return from the ship, and found the breeze + very grateful and refreshing after our hot experience in Cairo and on the + railway. From the covered balcony we could see Cleopatra’s needle on + the right, among a lot of houses, while away to the seaward rose the + lighthouse which occupies the site of the ancient “Pharos,” + one of the earliest lighthouses known to mariners—the earliest in + fact—and once known as one of the seven wonders of the world. Its + name is perpetuated in the appellation of lighthouses in the French and + other languages, (phare,) and its cost at the time of its erection by + Ptolemy Philadelphus was something very great. + </p> + <p> + History says it was a square building, of white marble, several stories + high, each story smaller than the one below it, and there was a road + winding round it with so gentle a slope that chariots could be driven to + the top. The fair, but imprudent Cleopatra, is said to have handled the + ribbons over a pair of animals somewhat better than omnibus horses, and + driven them to the summit of the Pharos, where she rested a few moments, + and then drove them down again. What a pity she did not break her neck in + the descent, so as to save some of us an unpleasant bit of scandal and + that horrid story of the asp. + </p> + <p> + Much care and attention is bestowed upon the gardens, and one of them, + belonging to a Greek resident, proved to be exceptionally handsome. It was + adorned with statues, and marble pavements, and in one corner there was a + charming little Kiosque where four chairs around a table suggested a + pleasant breakfast or lunch for the master and his family or friends. + There are many of these gardens in and around Alexandria, and they contain + a bewildering array of African and other plants. + </p> + <p> + At the appointed hour we went on board the steamer, and to avoid trouble + we made a contract with a fellow to transport our baggage from the hotel + to the ship and ourselves with it. One condition of the contract was that + our trunks were not to be opened at the Custom House; I don’t know + how much “backsheesh” he paid to the officials, but he had it + arranged beforehand so that nothing was disturbed. It is forbidden now to + take <span class="pagenum">694</span><a name="link694" id="link694"></a>antiquities + out of Egypt, and anything of the sort found in the trunk of a departing + stranger is liable to confiscation. + </p> + <p> + And behold us now on the deck of a Malta-bound steamer, prepared, when she + lifts her anchor, to say good-bye to Egypt. + </p> + <p> + Farewell to the land of the purest sky, and the most lovely winter climate + that the world can boast; to the temples and tombs that tell us of a + people far back in the misty past—a people whose mechanical skill + surpass that of all those who have followed them, and before whose + monuments we stand with bowed and reverential heads; and to the shrines of + Isis and Osiris to whose mystic worship the most powerful nation of its + time was devoted, and for whom the most gigantic temples were erected. + </p> + <p> + And farewell to the Nile, that mysterious river whose sources are yet + unknown, and on whose banks have been written through sixty centuries many + important pages of the world’s history. Mighty and brilliant empires + have there risen and fallen; great cities have flourished and disappeared. + Persian and Greek and Roman have come and gone; Pagan and Jew and + Christian and Moslem have built their temples, and have seen the glory and + decline of their religions; on its sleepy waters floated the frail bark + that held the infant Moses, and beside them rested the Holy family when it + fled from Bethlehem that the Saviour child might escape the fury of Herod. + </p> + <p> + Farewell to the desert with its glowing sands, and to the rich valley + whose fertility six thousand years of assiduous cultivation have not been + able to exhaust; to waving palms and kneeling camels; to the city of the + Caliphs, the Mamelukes, and the Khedive, where the bustle and activity of + the Occident have not altogether changed the dignified mien or opened the + eyes of the sleepy Oriental; where he sits to-day as he sat in the time of + Haroun Al-Raschid, and waits in his little shop till Heaven chooses to + send a purchaser for his wares. + </p> + <p> + To the land where Pharaoh ruled, and Cleopatra loved and died; where Past + and Present stand face to face, and where the opposing waves of Eastern + and Western civilizations are met we utter a hearty good-bye. When shall + we see you again? + </p> + <h3> + FINIS. + </h3> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 50700 ***</div> + </body> +</html> diff --git a/50700-h/images/0008.jpg b/50700-h/images/0008.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4d9f921 --- /dev/null +++ b/50700-h/images/0008.jpg diff --git a/50700-h/images/0009.jpg b/50700-h/images/0009.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4803ecb --- /dev/null +++ b/50700-h/images/0009.jpg diff --git a/50700-h/images/0011.jpg b/50700-h/images/0011.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d643dc --- /dev/null +++ b/50700-h/images/0011.jpg diff --git a/50700-h/images/0014.jpg b/50700-h/images/0014.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7671f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/50700-h/images/0014.jpg diff --git a/50700-h/images/0043.jpg b/50700-h/images/0043.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 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