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diff --git a/old/50653-0.txt b/old/50653-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 67043ed..0000000 --- a/old/50653-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12659 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Travels in the interior of Brazil, by John Mawe - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Travels in the interior of Brazil - with notices on its climate, agriculture, commerce, - population, mines, manners, and customs: and a particular - account of the gold and diamond districts. - -Author: John Mawe - -Release Date: December 9, 2015 [EBook #50653] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL *** - - - - -Produced by Giovanni Fini and The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES: - -—Obvious print and punctuation errors were corrected. - -—Superscript letter “o” has been rendered as text^o. - - - - - TRAVELS - - IN THE - - INTERIOR OF BRAZIL; - - WITH NOTICES ON ITS - - CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, POPULATION, - MINES, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS: - - AND - - _A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT_ - - OF - - THE GOLD AND DIAMOND DISTRICTS. - - INCLUDING - - _A VOYAGE TO THE RIO DE LA PLATA_. - - BY - - JOHN MAWE. - - SECOND EDITION. - - ILLUSTRATED WITH COLORED PLATES. - - London: - - PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, - PATERNOSTER ROW; - AND SOLD BY THE AUTHOR, 149, STRAND. - - 1822. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_W. M’Dowall Printer, Pemberton Row Gough Square._ - -[Illustration: PALACE & GREAT SQUARE IN RIO DE JANEIRO.] - - - - -PREFACE. - - -SINCE the first appearance of this work, nine years have elapsed, -during which period translations of it have been published in France, -Sweden, Germany, and Russia, as well as in Portugal and Brazil, and -two editions of it have been given in the United States of America. -Encouraged by these unequivocal proofs of approbation, and by the kind -offers of assistance from several eminent persons in Brazil, and from -others attached to the Portuguese interests in this country, I have -at length, and I trust not prematurely, ventured again to submit it -to the notice of the Public. In its present form, it is divested of -some details, which however interesting at the period of its first -publication, have ceased to be so; and their place has been supplied by -matter of higher and more lasting importance, collected from official -documents relative to Brazil, and from private memoranda communicated -by persons well acquainted with the present state of that interesting -country. For the opportunity of making many of these improvements, I -have to offer my grateful acknowledgments to the Conde de Funchal, -late ambassador from Portugal at the British Court; and I have also -to express my sincerest thanks to A. F. J. Marreco, Esq. for the -access which he has afforded me to various authentic and valuable -sources of information, and for his kind and judicious suggestions to -me while preparing the present edition for the press. How far I have -profited by these estimable advantages, will best appear from the work -itself, which I now submit to the equitable judgment of the Public. -Conciseness, as far as is consistent with fidelity of description, has -been my principal aim; and I trust that the reader will not think that -I have trespassed too much on his time, when he compares this with the -more voluminous productions which have recently been published on the -same subject. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - _Voyage to Cadiz and thence to the Rio de la Plata.—Adventures - at Monte Video.—Character of the Inhabitants.—Trade.—Climate. - —Geological Remarks.—Recent Changes.—Monte Video under the - Portuguese.—Agriculture and Trade of the Rio de la Plata._ 1 - - CHAPTER II. - - _Journey to Barriga Negra.—Geology of the Country.—Limestone, - and mode of burning it.—Horned Cattle.—Peons.—Horses.—Defective - State of Agriculture.—Manners of the Inhabitants.—Dress.—Wild - Animals.—Monte Video taken by the British.—My return thither._ 22 - - CHAPTER III. - - _Expedition against Buenos Ayres.—Account of the Population of - the Country, and Classes which compose it._ 46 - - CHAPTER IV. - - _Voyage to St. Catherine’s.—Description of that Island, and of - the Coast in its Vicinity.—Arrival at Santos, and Journey thence - to S. Paulo._ 55 - - CHAPTER V. - - _Description of S. Paulo.—System of Farming prevalent in its - Neighbourhood.—Excursion to the Gold Mines of Jaraguá.—Mode of - working them.—Return to Santos._ 92 - - CHAPTER VI. - - _Coasting Voyage from Santos to Sapitiva, and Journey thence to - Rio de Janeiro._ 122 - - CHAPTER VII. - - _Description of Rio de Janeiro.—Trade.—State of Society.—Visit to - the Prince Regent’s Farm at Santa Cruz._ 135 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - _Journey to Canta Gallo._ 157 - - CHAPTER IX. - - _Description of Canta Gallo.—Of the Gold-washing of Santa - Rita.—Account of the supposed Silver-Mine._ 170 - - CHAPTER X. - - _Permission obtained to visit the Diamond Mines.—Account of a - pretended Diamond presented to the Prince Regent.—Journey to - Villa Rica._ 195 - - CHAPTER XI. - - _Origin and present State of Villa Rica.—Account of the - Mint.—Visit to the City of Mariana.—Excursion to the Fazendas - of Barro and Castro, belonging to His Excellency the Conde de - Linhares._ 243 - - CHAPTER XII. - - _Journey from Villa Rica to Tejuco, the Capital of the Diamond - District._ 287 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - _Visit to the Diamond Works on the River Jiquitinhonha.—General - Description of the Works.—Mode of Washing.—Return - to Tejuco.—Visit to the Treasury.—Excursion to Rio - Pardo.—Miscellaneous Remarks._ 311 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - _Some Account of the Districts of Minas Novas and Paracatu.—Of - the large Diamond found in the River Abaite._ 337 - - CHAPTER XV. - - _Observations on Tejuco and Cerro do Frio._ 349 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - _General View of Minus Geraes._ 376 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - _Brief Notices on the Capitanias of Bahia, Pernambuco, Seara, - Maranham, Para, and Goyaz._ 391 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - _Geographical Description of the Capitania of Matto Grosso._ 407 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - _Account of the Capitania of Rio Grande._ 442 - - CHAPTER XX. - - _General Observations on the Trade from England to Brazil._ 450 - - _Appendix._ 473 - - _Index._ 487 - - - - -DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, - -WITH - -DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. - - - 1. View of the Square at Rio de Janeiro _to face the Title_ - - 2. Peon catching Cattle Page 32 - - 3. Horizontal Corn Mill and Pounding Machine[1] 190 - - 4. Map of the Author’s Route 195 - - 5. Topaz Mine (described p. 232) and Diamond-washing 314 - - 6. Negroes washing for Diamonds, Gold, &c. 317 - - - - -TRAVELS, - -_&c. &c. &c._ - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - _Voyage to Cadiz and thence to the Rio de la Plata. Adventures at - Monte Video.—Character of the Inhabitants.—Trade.—Climate. - —Geological Remarks.—Recent Changes.—Monte Video under the Portugueze. - —Agriculture and Trade at the Rio de la Plata._ - - -IN the year 1804, I was induced to undertake a voyage of commercial -experiment, on a limited scale, to the Rio de la Plata. On my arrival -at Monte Video, the ship and cargo were seized; I was thrown into -prison, and afterwards sent into the interior, where I was detained -until the taking of that place by the British troops under Sir Samuel -Auchmuty. I afterwards obtained leave to accompany the army under -General Whitelocke, which was sent against Buenos Ayres, and I rendered -such services to the expedition, as my two years’ residence in the -country enabled me to perform. At the termination of that expedition, -I went to Rio de Janeiro. A letter of introduction to the Viceroy of -Brazil, which was given me by the Portugueze Minister at London, gained -me the notice and protection of his brother, the Condé de Linhares, who -had then just arrived with the rest of the Court, and who recommended -me to the Prince Regent, as a person devoted to mineralogical pursuits, -and desirous of exploring the ample field for investigation which -his rich and extensive territories presented. His Royal Highness was -graciously pleased to further my views, not only by granting me letters -to the public functionaries of the various places I wished to visit, -but by ordering an escort of soldiers, and every other necessary -provision for performing the journey. I had the more reason to be -grateful for this munificent patronage, because I knew that a decree -existed, prohibiting all foreigners from travelling in the interior of -Brazil, and that no other Englishman had ever begun such an undertaking -with those indispensible requisites to its success, the permission and -sanction of the Government. - -Observations, made, in the course of these Travels, on the country and -its inhabitants, constitute the main part of the volume now offered -to the public. Whatever be their faults or their merits, they relate -to a subject at present extremely interesting, both in a political -and a commercial point of view; they profess to develope the physical -resources of a colony, which, through recent changes, is likely to -become an empire; and in part, to portray the character of a nation -which is now the most ancient, and has ever been the most faithful, -ally of Great Britain. - -As the recital of a voyage is proverbially tedious and superfluous, I -shall forbear to trouble the reader with any detail of mine, and shall -merely state, that, after encountering many difficulties at Cadiz, in -consequence of the rupture with Spain, I sailed for the Plata, and -having narrowly escaped shipwreck from a tremendous storm near the -mouth of that river, entered the harbour of Monte Video. - -The hardships I experienced in reaching this ill-fated port, were a -fit prelude to the misfortunes that awaited me there. We were bound -for Buenos Ayres, but my captain, who in London and at Cadiz had -assured me that he had the experience of a pilot in the Rio de la -Plata, proved totally ignorant of its navigation, and urged this -circumstance as his reason for putting into Monte Video. Happy should -I have been, if this had been the only instance of his ignorance; he -gave an ill-judged and blundering report of me to the governor, and -the sailors affirmed that I was an Englishman, declaring at the same -time that we had passed an English squadron under Spanish colors. -This statement was enough to whet the avarice of the governor, who, -notwithstanding I had served the colony, in bringing a cargo which -was then much wanted, and every article of which had paid legal duty -in Cadiz, ordered me to be thrown into prison. I was placed in close -confinement on board a wretched sloop of war; and though my health -was much impaired in consequence of exertion during the voyage, I was -denied every comfort, except such indulgences, as the officers, who -lived on shore, could at times clandestinely allow. Unprovided with -letters of recommendation to any person in the town, and destitute -of the means of making myself known, I had the mortification to see -the property I had brought with me seized, and my papers taken away -to be searched and examined. I was enjoined to make declarations, and -to give evidence against myself, to men whose sole wish was to find -a pretext for criminating me. After three or four examinations, it -was found that I had sailed from Cadiz with a cargo of goods, marked, -manifested, and duly registered, as Spanish; nor could any circumstance -be discovered as a ground of accusation against me, but the strong -suspicion that I was an Englishman, and on that account could not be -too harshly treated. I had no lenity to expect from the governor, nor -indeed from any of his advisers, who were, for the most part, men of -the lowest order, refugees from Old Spain in consequence of criminal -prosecutions. The rest of his associates were the captains and officers -of two Spanish privateers, all Frenchmen, whose natural prejudices, -no doubt, contributed to foment his antipathy against me. My sole -reliance was on the consignee of the cargo, who at length arrived from -Buenos Ayres; but, instead of clearing up the affair, he joined my -persecutors, knowing that if he gave security he should have the cargo -delivered to him. This favorable opportunity he failed not to embrace; -he sold the property, and withheld the proceeds, under the pretext, -that he could not pay them over to me while I remained a prisoner. This -conduct to one who had depended on him for support, and who relied on -his continually delusive promises of assistance, proved him to be one -of those mean and spiritless beings whose station in society is mid-way -between the simpleton and the knave. - -My confinement would probably have been long, but for the good services -of a Limenian, who attended me during my illness in Cadiz, and who had -come over in the vessel with me. He was the only person I was permitted -to see; and he interested himself so much in my behalf, that an old -gentlewoman, with whom he had formed an acquaintance, determined, on -hearing my story, to procure my liberation, and never rested until she -had procured two bondsmen to answer for my appearance when called for. - -The treatment I experienced, while in prison, was one of the many -instances of oppression which disgraced the administration of the -governor, Pasqual Ruiz Huidobro. It is well known that his political -conduct was entirely subservient to the interests of the French, -and that he lost no opportunity of evincing his attachment to their -cause. As a further proof of this, I may state, that he caused all the -captured English seamen to be confined in the prison, and, although its -spacious court was doubly grated and guarded, he debarred them the use -of it, and ordered them to be shut up, night and day, in a small room, -the door of which was never opened except when victuals were given -them. Aware of his severity, and knowing that I was the only prisoner -at large, I was very circumspect, and strove to guard my conduct and -discourse against artful misconstruction; but I had the misfortune -to incur his displeasure at a moment when I least suspected it, by -a very trivial, and certainly unintentional offence. Some written -papers had been stuck up in various parts of the town, by order of -Government, inviting foreign seamen to enter the service. Returning -home at midnight from a visit, I observed one of these placards; the -rain, which was pouring very fast, had partly detached it from the -wall, and it was blown to and fro by the wind. Curious to examine the -contents of a paper that had attracted the attention of many persons -in the course of the day, I took it down and carried it home with me; -this was observed by an old Spaniard of the name of Dias, who gloried -much in having it in his power to injure me, though a perfect stranger -to him, and unconscious of having done any thing to excite his malice. -At the instance of this man an order was issued by the governor for my -arrest; I was roused from my bed by the officers, and again hurried -to prison. What charges were brought against me I could learn only by -report; they were vague and indefinite, and no opportunity of answering -them was allowed me. After a close confinement of six weeks, during -which period my case was laid before the Viceroy of Buenos Ayres, I was -again suffered to be at large, on payment of a fee of three hundred -dollars. It was to the humane exertions of my advocate, seconded by -those of the Limenian and the lady before-mentioned, that I owed this -mitigation of my captivity, and I gratefully acknowledge that they made -every provision in their power to render my situation comfortable. - -During my stay at Monte Video another adventure befel me, which had -well nigh cost me my life; I am induced to relate it, by reason of the -insight it gives into the character of a certain class of the people. -I had gone on a shooting excursion to the promontory opposite Monte -Video, with my much-valued friend Captain Collet, owner of two or three -large American ships, and M. Godefroy, a merchant, resident in the -town. After some hours’ sport we met a party of four Spaniards, among -whom were Mr. Ortiga, the consignee of Captain Collet, and a person -called Manuel d’Iago. Our friend M. Godefroy had some conversation -with them at a short distance from us, and on his return gave us to -understand, that d’Iago had said it would not cost him above five -hundred dollars to send a pair of bullets through me, and that had I -been alone he would not have scrupled to do it. For this blood-thirsty -insinuation I was at a loss to conjecture any motive, nor knew I the -man, except by report, which designated him as a captain of militia, -extremely rigorous in his treatment of the unfortunate English, -whenever his turn to mount guard at the prison subjected them to his -authority. - -We pursued our diversion; he and his party meanwhile arrived at the -Signal-house, about three miles above us, where they took refreshment. -Some space of time afterward we observed a horse-soldier ride down -towards us, who on approaching eyed us with a look of great suspicion. -I had some little talk with him, having frequently seen him there -before. He returned directly to the Guard-house, and an hour afterwards -five _blandengues_, or horse-soldiers, sallied from the place at -full speed, and, surrounding us, demanded our arms at the peril of -our lives. Each of us obeyed, by surrendering his fowling-piece, M. -Godefroy at the same time enquiring the cause of this extraordinary -treatment; but they ordered him to be silent, and to march on along -with us, or they would tie him on horseback. We were conducted to the -Guard-house, and delivered (the officer being absent) to the corporal -on guard, a fiery old Spaniard, who ordered us into an inner room, -and placed two centinels at the door. The fellow was so stifled by -passion, that we could not get an answer from him; at every moment he -was drawing a long sabre which hung at his side, and venting his fury -in the most abusive language. After a full half-hour of expostulation -on our part, and menace on his, M. Godefroy obtained a hearing from -him, and, declaring he was a merchant, married and actually settled in -Monte Video, begged to know by what authority and under what pretext -he was imprisoned. The corporal, on learning this, sent a soldier to -the officer on guard, and while waiting his return, related that D’Iago -had described us as Englishmen belonging to a privateer, who had landed -with an intention to blow up the powder-magazines, kill bullocks, and -plunder the natives. It was evident from his manner that he was very -willing to believe this account, and that by treating us with severity -he hoped to display his zeal for the service, and obtain promotion. M. -Godefroy’s testimony being at length attended to, another soldier was -dispatched to D’Iago’s party, who were not yet embarked, with notice -that one of us affirmed himself to be a resident in Monte Video. This -they did not contradict, but persisted in their accusations of the -rest of our party; Mr. Ortiga denied any knowledge of Captain Collet, -probably imagining that, in case of our conviction, he should benefit -by the cargoes which the latter had consigned to him; and for me, whom -they denounced as a spy, no punishment in their opinion could be too -ignominious. On the return of the soldier, the corporal thought proper -to release M. Godefroy, who took our boat to cross the port to Monte -Video, with the intention of procuring an order for our liberation; -but they had scarcely sailed, when a gust of wind arose, and as he and -two boys he had with him could not manage the sails, they were nearly -overset, and after considerable danger were picked up by a ship in the -road. Meanwhile Captain Collet and I remained in strict custody, and -at every syllable of complaint we uttered, the corporal brandished -his sabre over our heads, roared out for the guard, and vociferated -the most opprobrious language against the English. Thus threatened -at every moment with assassination, we withdrew into a corner of the -room, and quietly waited until the officer on guard arrived, when we -were conducted in great form, between two men with drawn swords, into -the room where he sat to receive us. Nothing could exceed my joyful -surprise at recognizing in the officer an excellent and worthy friend, -whom I had often visited at his farm, and who had given me repeated -proofs of his liberal disposition and intelligent mind. His surprise -exceeded mine; for instead of plunderers or spies, such as report had -described us, he found an American merchant and a prisoner at large -under bail. He was deeply grieved and ashamed at the treatment we had -met with, liberated us immediately, mounted us on his own horses, -and appointed a trusty person to attend us to Monte Video, where we -arrived at eight in the evening. The disappointment of the corporal -appeared as deep as his rage had been violent; and the recollection of -his conduct operated on us as a warning against persons of his class, -who rarely see an opportunity of doing mischief to a stranger, without -a strong inclination to avail themselves of it. - -During the time I was at large, I had leisure to acquire some knowledge -of Monte Video. It is a tolerably well-built town, standing on a gentle -elevation at the extremity of a small peninsula, and is walled entirely -round. Its population amounts to between 15,000 and 20,000 souls. The -harbour, though shoal, and quite open to the _pamperos_, or south-west -gales, is the best in the Rio de la Plata; it has a very soft bottom of -deep mud. When the wind continues for some time at north-east, ships -drawing twelve feet water are frequently a-ground for several days, so -that the harbour cannot be called a good one for vessels above three -hundred or four hundred tons. - -There are but few capital buildings; the town in general consists of -houses of one story, paved with bricks, and provided with very poor -convenience. In the square is a cathedral, very handsome, but awkwardly -situated; opposite to it, is an edifice divided into a town-house, or -_cabildo_, and a prison. The streets, having no pavement, are always -either clouded with dust or loaded with mud, as the weather happens to -be dry or wet. In seasons of drought the want of conduits for water is -a serious inconvenience, the well, which principally supplies the town, -being two miles distant. - -Provisions here are cheap and in great abundance. Beef in particular -is very plentiful, and, though rarely fat or fine, makes excellent -soup. The best parts of the meat may, indeed, be called tolerable, -but they are by no means tender. The pork is not eatable. Such is -the profusion of flesh-meat, that the vicinity for two miles round, -and even the purlieus of the town itself, present filthy spectacles -of bones and raw flesh at every step, which feed immense flocks of -sea-gulls, and in summer breed myriads of flies, to the great annoyance -of the inhabitants, who are obliged at table to have a servant or two -continually employed in fanning the dishes with feathers, to drive away -those troublesome intruders. - -Of the character of the inhabitants of Monte Video, I am perhaps not -qualified to speak impartially, having been treated with unmerited -harshness, deprived of my property, and repeatedly persecuted on -the most groundless suspicion. These abuses, however, are solely -chargeable on the governor and on the persons immediately under his -influence; and I am bound in fairness to avow, that I did not perceive -any disposition in the generality of the people to injure or oppress -me. From individuals in the town I received all the assistance which -disinterested benevolence could afford to a person in my critical -situation; and were I, from the impulse of gratitude, to judge of the -whole by a part, I should say, that the inhabitants of Monte Video, -particularly the Creolians, are humane and well-disposed, when not -actuated by political or religious prejudices. Their habits of life -are much the same with those of their brethren in Old Spain, and -seem to proceed from the same remarkable union of two opposite but -not incompatible qualities, indolence and temperance. The ladies are -generally affable and polite, extremely fond of dress, and very neat -and cleanly in their persons. They adopt the English costume at home, -but go abroad usually in black, and always covered with a large veil -or mantle. At mass they invariably appear in black silk, bordered with -deep fringes. They delight in conversation, for which their vivacity -eminently qualifies them, and they are very courteous to strangers. - -The chief trade of Monte Video consists in hides, tallow, and dried -beef; the two former of these articles are exported to Europe, and the -latter is sent to the West Indies, especially to the Havannah. Coarse -copper from Chili, in square cakes, is sometimes shipped here, as well -as an herb called _Mate_ from Paraguay, the infusion of which is as -common a beverage in these parts as tea is in England. - -Sugar, coffee, and sweetmeats, are supplied from Rio de Janeiro and -other parts of the Brazilian coasts by small traders. Some articles -of jewellery are also brought from thence, and the returns are made in -dollars, hides, and tallow, which are forwarded generally to Europe. - -The inhabitants were by no means opulent before the English took -the garrison, but through the misfortunes of the latter at Buenos -Ayres, and the losses of our commercial adventurers by ill-judged and -imprudent speculations, they were considerably enriched. The great -prospects indulged in England, before the expedition to the Plata, of -immense profits by trade to that river, have generally ended in ruin; -very few, indeed, of the speculators have escaped without considerable -loss. Property, once litigated, might be considered in a fair way for -confiscation; and in case of its having been deposited until certain -questions were decided, restitution was generally obtained at the -loss of one half. It frequently happened that goods detained in the -Custom-houses, or lodged in private stores in the river, were opened, -and large quantities stolen. The party on whom suspicion seemed most -reasonably to fall was the consignee, who, even with a few cargoes, was -generally observed to get rich very rapidly. Not contented with the -profits accruing from his commission, he seldom scrupled to take every -advantage which possession of the property afforded him, to further -his own interests at the expence of his correspondent. The dread of a -legal process could be but a slight check upon him, for in the Spanish -courts of justice, as well as in others, a native and a stranger are -seldom upon equal terms. Other circumstances have occurred to enrich -the inhabitants of Monte Video. It is a fact, which I afterwards -ascertained, that the English exported thither, goods to the amount -of a million and a half sterling, a small portion of which, on the -restoration of the place to the Spaniards, was re-shipped for the Cape -of Good Hope and the West Indies; the remainder was for the most part -sacrificed at whatever price the Spaniards chose to give. As their own -produce advanced in proportion as our’s lowered in price, those among -them who speculated gained considerably. The holders of English goods -sold their stock at upwards of fifty per cent. profit immediately after -the evacuation of the place. - -The climate of Monte Video is humid. The weather, in the winter months -(June, July, and August), is at times boisterous, and the air in that -season is generally keen and piercing. In summer the serenity of the -atmosphere is frequently interrupted by tremendous thunder-storms, -preceded by dreadful lightning, which frequently damages the shipping, -and followed by heavy rain, which sometimes destroys the harvest. The -heat is troublesome, and is rendered more so to strangers by the swarms -of mosquitoes, which it engenders in such numbers that they infest -every apartment. - -The town stands on a basis of granite, the feldspar of which is for -the most part of an opaque milk-white color, in a decomposing state; -in some places it is found of a flesh-red color and crystallized. -The mica is generally large and foliated, in many places imperfectly -crystallized. It is obvious that the excessive quantity of mud in the -harbour and throughout the banks of the river cannot have been formed -from this stratum. The high mount on the opposite side of the bay, -which is crowned with a Light-house, and gives name to the town, is -principally composed of clay-slate, in laminæ perpendicular to the -horizon. This substance appears much like basalt in texture, but its -fracture is less conchoidal; it decomposes into an imperfect species of -wacké, and ultimately into ferruginous clay, from beds of which water -is observed to flow in various parts of the mountain. - -The vicinity of Monte Video is agreeably diversified with low gently -sloping hills, and long valleys watered by beautiful rivulets; but the -prospects they afford are rarely enlivened by traces of cultivation; -few enclosures are seen except the gardens of the principal merchants. -The same defect appears in a north-east direction from the town, where -similar varieties of hill, valley, and water prevail, and seem to want -only the embellishment of sylvan scenery to complete the landscape. -Some wood, indeed, grows on the margin of the _Riachuelo_, which is -used for the building of hovels and for fuel. There is a pleasant -stream about ten leagues from Monte Video, called the Louza, the banks -of which seem to invite the labor of the planter, and would certainly -produce abundance of timber[2]. It is to be remarked that the almost -entire want of this article here, occasions great inconvenience and -expense: wood for mechanical purposes is extremely scarce, and planks -are so dear that hardly one house with a boarded floor is to be found. - -In this vicinity the farms are of great extent; few are so small as -six miles in length, by a league in width. Such is the scarcity of -wood, that the land-marks, when not already designated by nature in a -chain of hills, a rivulet, or a valley, are made by ranges of stones -of a peculiar form. The _quintas_ (or farms owned by gentlemen), -with the country houses built upon them, as rural retreats for their -proprietors, resident in Monte Video, were extremely pleasant and -agreeable; the gardens were full of fine flowers and fruits, and every -thing about these establishments indicated so much peace, harmony, -and good neighbourhood, as to make an impression on the mind of a -stranger equally pleasing and indelible. But the scene, alas! has been -changed through the intestine discords produced by a revolutionary -war; and the colony has been reduced from a state of happiness to one -of distress and wretchedness. The inhabitants of the interior, having -been instigated to plunder each other until nothing remained, ranged -themselves under the banners of the predatory chieftain Artigas, and -formed a desperate banditti, who robbed and frequently murdered all -they met; drove the peaceable inhabitants from their farms, plundered -their houses, took away their cattle, reduced the rich to poverty, and -the poor to wretchedness, almost so as to desolate this once florishing -colony. A man, who but a few months before possessed 100,000 head of -cattle, was driven from his estate, and obliged to purchase, at the -price of one shilling per pound, the meat which he had formerly left in -the slaughter-house, having killed his beasts merely for their hides; -so that the necessaries of life which were once to be procured almost -gratuitously, became extravagantly dear; and the horrors of approaching -famine were superadded to those of anarchy and spoliation. - -Reverting to the former order of things, I could name more than fifty -individuals of Monte Video, whose estates were from twenty to fifty -miles in length, by ten or twenty in breadth, with cattle in such -numbers as are almost incredible. An estate of this kind, consisting -of a varied extent of hill, plain, and valley, is called a _fazenda_, -as distinguished from the _quinta_, which bears a closer resemblance -to the English farm, being a portion of land, generally selected near -the house, for the culture of wheat, beans, Indian corn, melons, fruit -trees, &c. - -The farm house is almost destitute of furniture; the couch consists of -a raw hide, stretched and suspended, on which is placed a flock bed; -strangers most commonly sleep on a mat, or dried hide, spread upon the -ground. - -At a small distance from Monte Video, herds of deer, and flocks of -ostriches are to be met with; the eagle is often seen, and sometimes -the tiger. Soon after the time when the troops of Artigas drove the -cattle from the mountain opposite, two tigers swam across the bay, -penetrated at night into the town, and killed two or three of the -inhabitants ere they were attacked and destroyed. They were supposed to -have been driven by hunger in search of food. - -The country which was formerly so peaceable and so safe, that a -traveller might go to almost any distance, and meet with nothing but -hospitality, has been latterly so infested with banditti, that to -wander a mile or two from the town exposes a man to the danger of -being robbed and murdered; so that while anarchy and confusion prevail -within, there is nothing but plunder and destruction without the walls -of Monte Video. It has however fallen into the possession of the -Portuguese, who cannot be dislodged from so strong a fortress by any -force which their neighbours are able to bring against them. Indeed, -the Potuguese, availing themselves of the advantages afforded by the -disorganized state of Buenos Ayres, will, no doubt, incorporate the -northern part of the Plata with the captaincy of Rio Grande, and thus -extend to that distracted country the blessings of their own mild and -beneficent government. Artigas being at length taken prisoner, public -confidence will be restored in Monte Video, and the reign of peace and -security be there re-established. - -The operation of ploughing, consists here of little more than forming a -small furrow, by running a sharp pointed stick through the soil. There -are no dairy farms, and scarcely is any butter or cheese made. Mining -is unknown; and little notice is taken of the small quantity of lead -ore which appears in limestone at Maldonado. - -An estate, however large, seldom contains more than from ten to twenty -men, who are employed in domesticating cattle; and scarcely a woman -is to be seen, except the domestic negresses. Sheep are kept solely -for their wool, and pigs for their fat, an article much in request for -culinary preparations. The usual mode of travelling is on horseback, -and there are very few carriages in Monte Video. - -The breeding of horses is less attended to than that of cattle, as -their hides sell at an inferior price. Herds of 500 or 1000 horses are -not often seen in this district, though those of oxen sometimes amount -to ten times the latter number. Cows are but seldom domesticated, -and then very few, and it is by mere stratagem in managing the calf -that any milk can be procured. Every kind of handicraft trade is -ill conducted. Though the Monte Videans have hides, they procure -their leather from Europe, as that which they make themselves is -comparatively worthless. Their carpenters and other artisans are bad -workmen; but I am told their barbers are men of superior skill in their -calling, and this distinction may, perhaps, be attributed to the great -beards of the Spaniards; the men of Paraguay having a stinted portion -of that natural ornament. The silversmiths are of so inferior a stamp, -that they might with greater propriety be called coppersmiths. The -common people excel most in catching cattle, either with the noose, or -the balls. - -In the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, wheat alone is -grown. It is stored, until wanted, in hides; and when there is a great -demand for grain in Brazil, it is sometimes exported to Rio de Janeiro. -But of late years the inhabitants of the provinces of La Plata have -paid less attention than ever to this branch of agriculture; and the -supplies to Brazil have been chiefly derived from the Cape of Good -Hope. - - - - -CHAP. II. - - _Journey to Barriga Negra.—Geology of the Country.—Limestone, and - mode of burning it.—Horned Cattle.—Peons.—Horses.—Defective - State of Agriculture.—Manners of the Inhabitants.—Dress.—Wild - Animals.—Monte Video taken by the British.—My return thither._ - - -ON the arrival of General Beresford’s expedition in the river, I -was again ordered into close confinement, but my advocate obtained -permission for me to be sent into the interior, under a stipulation not -to approach within forty leagues of Monte Video. This removal seemed -for the moment to shut out all hope of obtaining my liberty, and at the -same time threatened to expose me to fresh dangers, but I derived some -consolation from the generous offers of shelter and protection made to -me by a worthy Spaniard named Don Juan Martinez, whose establishment, -not more than fifty leagues from the lake of Meni, was situated at -the full distance prescribed in the orders respecting me. A retreat -so remote and unfrequented offered few amusements to relieve the -tediousness of banishment, but it at least afforded the prospect of a -wider range for mineralogical observation, and of ampler leisure to -attend to this my favorite pursuit. - -In the course of the journey thither, my attention was principally -engaged by the wild and solitary aspect of the country. About -twenty-five leagues north-east from Monte Video, I observed an -irregular ridge of granite mountains, in a direction nearly north and -south, and the country from this distance gradually assumes a rugged -appearance. Mica is very common upon the road, and in some places -quartz; on one hill I gathered several detached crystals of the latter -substance. The ravines of these stony wilds and the wooded margins of -the rivers afford shelter to many ferocious animals, such as jaguars, -(here called tigers), lions, and ounces. Here are also great numbers -of wild dogs which breed in the rocks, and at times make great havoc -among the young cattle. The farms in this district, for the most part, -include tracts of land from twenty to thirty miles in length by half -that extent in breadth, watered by pleasing streams. Vast herds of -cattle are bred upon them; it is calculated that each square league -sustains one thousand five hundred or two thousand head. - -At the distance of about forty leagues from Monte Video, in the -direction above mentioned, the range of hills gradually lessens and -disappears; the country opens finely on the left, and is intersected -by numerous rivulets. After crossing several of these we arrived -at the head of a little brook called Polancos, which a few miles -below, assumes the name of Barriga Negra. It there receives several -small streams, and in the course of ten leagues is augmented by the -confluence of some others; becoming thus a considerable river, about as -large as the Trent at Gainsborough, it is denominated Godoy, but, on -passing into the Portugueze territories, it changes its name to that -of Sebollati, and flows into the Lagun Meni. Near the junction of two -rivulets that form the Barriga Negra, stands the great lime-kiln of my -friend, in whose house I took up my residence, and was received with -that kindness and sincere hospitality which in an instant dispelled -every doubt from my mind, and excited in me sentiments of gratitude -that were every day more deeply impressed in my heart. - -Having become thoroughly domesticated in my new abode, I began to make -excursions into the surrounding district and the parts beyond it. The -country in general may be termed stony and mountainous, though its -inequalities do not exceed those of Derbyshire. No traces of either -volcanic or alluvial matter are to be found; the solid rock frequently -appears on the surface, and in many places projects in masses of -various sizes. The mountains and rocks are of granite; no veins of -metallic substance have hitherto been discovered, but fine red and -yellow jasper, chalcedony, and quartz, are not unfrequently found loose -on the surface. Some fossils of the asbestos kind, and some very poor -oxides of iron are likewise to be met with occasionally. The bases -of many of the conical mountains are overlaid with limestone of a -dull blue color; I found in this substance many capillary veins of -calcareous-spar, and sometimes crystals of pyrites. In one part of the -vicinity there is a plain about half a mile square, on the surface of -which are found large quantities of white stone in nodules; it is of a -very close texture and proves to be gypsum without water (Anhydrite). -The summits of these mountains are no where calcareous, excepting those -of one ridge, the singular appearance of which induced me to trace it -as far as was practicable. The limestone on these summits is of a close -compact kind, united to transparent quartz in a tabular form, standing, -as it were, in laminæ perpendicular to the horizon, and thus presenting -to the view a number of upright slabs, somewhat similar to the -grave-stones in a country church-yard. This singular ridge apparently -commences at a mountain of very unusual form, and, extending about two -miles, in which it crosses two or three valleys, and terminates in a -ravine of considerable depth. No vestige of calcareous crystallization -appeared in this limestone[3]. It is singular to remark, that the -cavities formed by the laminæ afford refuge for reptiles, particularly -rattle-snakes; the person employed by Mr. Martinez in getting the -stone, destroyed upwards of twenty-seven serpents of that species in -the course of a few weeks. - -The limestone is loosened by the wedge and lever, and brought away -in large slabs to the kilns, where it is broken into fragments of a -convenient size, and burnt with wood. The kilns are very capacious, -but so badly constructed that the process of calcination is very slow -and tedious. The lime, when slaked, is measured, put into sacks made -of green hides, and sent in large carts, drawn by oxen, principally to -Colonia del Sacramento, Monte Video, and Buenos Ayres. - -Barriga Negra is distant about 160 miles north-east from Monte Video, -about 120 from Maldonado, and 90 from the town of Minas. The country -around it is mountainous, well watered, and not destitute of wood. The -banks of the streams are thickly covered with trees, rarely, however, -of large size, for the creeping plants, interweaving with the shoots, -check their growth and form an impenetrable thicket. Here are numbers -of great breeding estates, many of which are stocked with from 60,000 -to 200,000 head of cattle. These are guarded principally by men from -Paraguay called Peons, who live in hovels built for the purpose at -convenient distances. Ten thousand head are allotted to four or five -Peons, whose business it is to collect them every morning and evening, -and once or twice a month to drive them into pens, where they are kept -for a night. The cattle by this mode of management are soon tamed; a -ferocious or vicious beast I never saw among them. Breeding is alone -attended to; neither butter nor cheese is made, and milk is scarcely -known as an article of food. The constant diet of the people, morning, -noon, and night, is beef, eaten almost always without bread, and -frequently without salt. This habitual subsistence on strong food would -probably engender diseases, were it not corrected by frequently taking -an infusion of their favorite herb _Mate_, at all times of the day, -when inclination calls for it. - -The dwellings of the Peons are in general very wretched, the walls -being formed by a few upright posts interwoven with small branches of -trees, plastered with mud inside and out, and the roof thatched with -long grass and rushes. The door is also of wicker-work, or, in its -stead, a green hide stretched on sticks and removable at pleasure. The -furniture of these poor hovels consists of a few skulls of horses, -which are made to serve for seats; and of a stretched hide to lie upon. -The principal if not the sole cooking utensil is a spit or rod of iron, -stuck in the ground in an oblique position, so as to incline over the -fire. The beef when spitted is left to roast until the part next the -fire is supposed to be done enough, then its position is altered, and -the change is occasionally repeated, until the whole is cooked. The -juices of the meat, by this mode of roasting, help to mend the fire, -and indeed the people seem to think that they are fit for nothing else. -The meat, which is naturally poor and coarse, being thus dried to -a cake, bears little affinity to the boasted roast beef of England. -Fuel, in some parts, is so extremely scarce that the following strange -expedient is resorted to for a supply. As the mares in this country -are kept solely for breeding, and are never trained to labor, they -generally exceed, in a great degree, the due proportion; a flock of -them is frequently killed, and their carcasses soon becoming dry, are -used as firing, (with the exception of the hides and tails), which, -when properly prepared, are packed for exportation. - -The Peons are chiefly emigrants from Paraguay[4], and it is a singular -fact that, among the numbers that are here settled, very few women -are to be found. A person may travel in these parts for days together -without seeing or hearing of a single female in the course of his -journey. To this circumstance may be attributed the total absence of -domestic comfort in the dwellings of these wretched men, and the gloomy -apathy observable in their dispositions and habits. It is true that the -mistress of an estate may occasionally visit it for a few months, but -she is obliged during her stay to live in great seclusion, on account -of the dreadful consequences to be apprehended from being so exposed. - -The dexterous mode in which the Peons catch their cattle, by throwing -a noose over them, has been frequently detailed, but certainly no -description can do full justice to their agility. They throw with equal -precision and effect, whether at full gallop or at rest. Their method -of catching horses, by means of balls attached to leather thongs, -is similar to the former but more unerring; scarcely an instance has -been known of its failure, except in those frequent trials which are -requisite to acquire perfect skill in the practice. - -They have a very singular and simple way of training mules and horses -to draw light carts, coaches, &c. No harness is used; a saddle or pad -is girted on, and a leather thong is fastened to the girth on one side, -so that the animal moving forward, with his body in a rather oblique -direction, keeps his legs clear of the apparatus which is attached -to him, and draws with a freedom and an agility that in a stranger -excite great surprise. A similar contrivance is used in the catching -of cattle. The Peon fastens one end of his _lazo_[5] to the girth of -his horse, who soon learns to place himself in such an attitude as to -draw the ox which his rider has caught, and even, should the latter -dismount, to keep the thong on the stretch. - -The horses in this country are very spirited, and perform almost -incredible labor. They seldom work longer than a week at a time, being -then turned out to pasture for months together. Their sole food is -grass, and the treatment they endure from their masters is most harsh -and unfeeling. They are frequently galloped until their generous fire -is spent, and they drop through exhaustion and fatigue. The make of the -bridle is alone sufficient to torture the animal, being of the heavy -Spanish fashion. They are never shod. The girths of the saddles are of -a curious construction; they are generally formed of shreds of green -hide, or of the sinew of the neck; the middle part is twenty inches -broad, and each end is terminated by an iron ring. One of these ends is -made fast to the saddle by its ring; to the other side of the saddle is -attached a third ring and a pliable strap, which, being passed through -it and the girth-ring three or four times, affords the rider great -purchase, and enables him to gird the saddle very tight, which is thus -kept so firm in its place that a crupper is unnecessary, and indeed is -never used. - -Trained horses sell here at from five to seven dollars each; horned -cattle, in good condition, by the herd of a thousand, at two dollars -a head; mares at three rials (1s. 6d. sterling) each. Sheep are very -scarce and are never eaten; they are kept by some families merely for -the sake of their wool, which is made into flocks for bedding. It is -worthy of remark, that, in the remote parts of the interior, where -no settlements have been made, the cattle are found of a dark brown -color, except on a small part of the belly, which is white, but when -they become domesticated, they produce breeds of a lighter color, with -hides beautifully spotted and variegated. The fine herds bred in many -parts of this district, have often tempted the Portugueze to make -predatory incursions; and the country being accessible by fine open -passes to the frontier, as well as to the north side of the Plata, -these violations of territory have been carried on to a very serious -extent. So frequent were they at one period, that it became necessary -to appoint a military force to parade the boundaries and to defend the -Spanish settlements against these inroads. - -[Illustration: PEON CATCHING CATTLE.] - -[Illustration: PLOUGHING FOR WHEAT. - -OSTRICH NEST.] - -In taking a general view of the country, a stranger cannot but observe, -with regret, that while nature has been profuse in her blessings, the -inhabitants have been neglectful in the improvement of them. Here is, -for instance, abundance of excellent clay and plenty of wood on the -margin of the rivers, yet it is rare to meet with an inclosure, even -for a kitchen garden, much more so for a corn-field. They generally -choose their grounds for tillage by the banks of a rivulet, so as to -have one side or sometimes two sides bounded by it; the remainder is -fenced in the most clumsy and bungling manner imaginable. Ploughing is -performed by the help of two oxen yoked to a crooked piece of wood, -about four inches in diameter, and pointed at the end. After the ground -has been rooted up, the wheat is sown, without any previous attempt to -clear it from noxious seeds. While it grows up, it is never weeded; so -that wild oats, poppies, and other pernicious herbs, thriving among it -in wild luxuriance, obstruct the sun’s rays and hinder it from ripening -kindly. Indian corn, beans, melons, &c. are all treated in a similar -way. The wheat, when ripe, is cut down with sickles, and gathered -into heads or sheaves. A circular pen of from forty to sixty yards in -diameter is then formed with rails and hides; in the centre of this -enclosure is placed a quantity of about one hundred or two hundred -quarters of wheat in the straw. The pile is so formed as to have the -ears on the outside as much as possible. A small quantity is pulled -down towards the circumference of the circle, and a herd of about -twenty mares is driven in, which, being untamed, are easily frightened -and made to gallop round. At this pace they are kept by means of whips -for four or five hours, until the corn is trod out of the ears, and -the straw is completely reduced. Another parcel of the sheaves is then -pulled down, and a fresh herd of mares is let in, and this operation -is repeated until the whole heap is reduced, and the straw is broken -as small as chaff. In this state it is left until it blows a brisk -gale; and then the winnowing is performed by emptying baskets of the -mixed grain and chaff at an elevation of eight feet from the ground. -While the chaff is borne away by the current of air, the grain falls, -and at the close of the operation, is sewed up in green hides. In this -state it is sent to Monte Video, where it is ground for consumption, -or exported. It is obvious, that by the above mode of separating the -grain, a considerable quantity must be lost by abrasion, and by mixture -with a large portion of earth which cannot be blown away by the wind. - -The climate and soil are equally favorable for the growth of grapes, -apples, peaches, and in short every species of fruit belonging to -the temperate zone, but these are known here only as rarities. That -inestimable root, the potatoe, would thrive abundantly, if once -introduced; but, though much has been said in recommendation of it, -the people remain totally averse to this or any other proposal for -improving their means of subsistence, and seem to wish for nothing -beyond the bare necessaries of life. Indeed the state of society among -them weakens those ties which naturally attach men to the soil on which -they are accustomed to subsist. The Peons, brought from Paraguay in -their infancy, grow up to the age of manhood in a state of servitude, -uncheered by domestic comfort; at that period they generally wander, -in search of employment, toward the coast, where money is in greater -plenty. There is no specie in circulation in the interior; their wages -are paid monthly in notes on Monte Video. The men, for the most part, -are an honest and harmless race, though quite as liable, from the -circumstances of their condition, to acquire habits of gambling[6], as -the higher classes of the people, numbers of whom fall victims to that -seductive vice. The various evils hence resulting are multiplied by the -lax administration of the laws; even in case of murder the criminal -has little to fear if he can escape to a distance of twenty or thirty -leagues; he there lives in obscurity, probably for the remainder of -his life, without ever being brought to justice. I know not whether -this want of vigilance in the magistracy be not a temptation for the -numerous refugees who seek shelter here, such as European Spaniards, -who have deserted from the service or have been banished for their -crimes. These wretches, loaded with guilt, flee into the interior, -where they seldom fail to find some one or other of their countrymen -who is willing to give them employment, though frequently at the peril -of his life. By the corrupt example of these refugees, the innocent -Creole is soon initiated in vice, and becomes a prey to all those -violent passions which are engendered and fostered by habitual idleness. - -The common dress of the people is such as might be expected from their -indolence and poverty. They generally go without shoes and stockings; -indeed as they rarely go on foot, they have seldom occasion for shoes. -Some of them, particularly the Peons, make a kind of boots from the -raw skins of young horses, which they frequently kill for this sole -purpose. When the animal is dead, they cut the skin round the thigh, -about eighteen inches above the gambrel; having stripped it, they -stretch and dress it until it loses the hair and becomes quite white. -The lower part, which covered the joint, forms the heel, and the -extremity is tied or sewed up to cover the toes. These boots, when -newly finished, are of a delicate color, and very generally admired. -The rest of their apparel consists of a jacket, which is universally -worn by all ranks, and a shirt and drawers made of a coarse cotton -cloth brought from Brazil. Children run about with no dress but their -shirts until their fifth or sixth year. Their education is very little -attended to, and is confined to mere rudiments; a man who is able to -read and write, is considered to have all the learning he can desire. - -Among the many natural advantages which this district possesses, are -the frequent falls in the rivulets and larger streams, which might be -converted to various mechanical purposes, if the population were more -numerous and better instructed. Some of these streams, as was before -stated, join the various branches of the Godoy, and flow into the lake -Meni; those on the other side of the mountains in a northerly direction -empty themselves principally through the Riachuelo and the St. Lucia, -into the Plata. - -The want of cultivation in this vast territory may be inferred from -the numbers and varieties of wild animals which breed upon it. -Tigers, ounces, and lions are common. The former are heavy sluggish -animals; their chief prey is the young cattle, which they find in such -abundance, that they rarely attack a man. Hence little danger is to be -apprehended from them by any person travelling on horseback[7], unless -when inadvertently approaching the haunt of a female with young. The -ounce has the same character, and the lion is considered less vicious -than either. There is an animal of the pig kind, called the pig of -the woods, (_Pecari_),[8] which has an orifice on its back, whence it -emits a most intolerable stench when closely pursued. If on killing -the animal, the part be instantaneously cut out, the flesh affords -good eating, but should that operation be neglected, even for a short -period, the taint contaminates the whole carcass. The domestic pigs are -by no means good; they feed so much upon beef, that their flesh is very -hard and coarse. There is an animal of the opossum kind, about the size -of a rabbit, called a _zurilla_, the skin of which is streaked black -and white, and is considered of some value. When attacked, it ejects a -fetid liquor, which is of so pungent a nature, that if it falls on any -part of the dress of its pursuers, there is no possibility of getting -rid of the stench, but by continual exposure to the weather for some -months. The _zurilla_ is very fond of eggs and poultry, and sometimes -enters a house in quest of its prey; the inhabitants immediately -hasten out and leave their unwelcome visitant in quiet possession, as -long as she chooses to stay; well aware that the slightest attempt to -drive her out, would expose them to an ejectment from the premises -for ever. Eagles both of the grey and blue species, as well as other -birds of prey, are found in great numbers. Here are also parroquets in -immense flocks, pigeons, great red-legged partridges, small partridges, -wild ducks, and wild turkies. Ostriches of a large species are very -numerous; they are so fleet and active, that even when well mounted I -could never get near them but by surprise; the stroke of their wing is -said to be inconceivably strong. - -Here are considerable herds of small deer, which in this fine country -would afford the sportsman excellent diversion; but unfortunately -the dogs are good for nothing, as there is no attention paid to the -preservation and improvement of the breed. The rivers produce tortoises -and other amphibious animals, but they are chiefly noted for a variety -of singularly ugly fish, which afford tolerable but by no means good -eating. - -During a residence of six months in this remote district, as a -prisoner at large, or in fact as a welcome guest at the house of -a most hospitable man, my life passed away in an equable tenor, -uninterrupted by those vicissitudes that elsewhere befel me, and -therefore a narrative of it is little calculated to interest the -reader. Rather than occupy his attention by relating my various hopes -and disappointments, as the prospect of liberation became more or less -favorable, I have chosen to present him with the result of some general -observations on the country, made during the daily excursions which -I enjoyed through the liberality of my friend. The longer I resided -in his house, the greater was his kindness to me in allowing me those -indulgences, and the more did he and his family strive to render my -exile agreeable. An event at length occurred which at once delighted -and distressed me; because while it afforded me hopes of immediate -deliverance, it destroyed for a time the harmony which had so long -subsisted between me and my protector. I allude to the taking of Monte -Video by the British troops under Sir Samuel Auchmuty. - -On hearing of the surrender of the place, I solicited Mr. Martinez -to liberate me, as I thought myself no longer a prisoner. He seemed -much astonished at this, and gave me to understand that I continued a -prisoner, because, not being actually at Monte Video, I was still in -the power and under the jurisdiction of the Viceroy of Buenos Ayres. -This worthy man’s mind was so distracted by the fall of the town, and -by the disgrace of the Spanish arms, that he secluded himself from -society, and avoided all communication with me. In these circumstances -I was advised to attempt my escape, but I felt great repugnance at the -idea of thus wounding the feelings of a man who had humanely released -me from confinement, and had ever treated me as a brother. Averse to -such an act of ingratitude, I intreated his amiable wife to intercede -for me, and to suggest that, on returning to Monte Video, it might be -in my power to be of service to him. But he rejected the proposal in -the most vehement manner, and forbade any one to talk to him on the -subject. I now thought that my liberty was unreasonably denied me, and -as I saw no probability of obtaining it but through my own exertions, -I determined at all events to make the attempt. After deliberating for -some days, and consulting with two men who had frequently mentioned -the subject to me, I decided on my plan of escape, and gave them six -ounces of gold to provide horses and every thing necessary. On the -appointed night, all was in readiness, the horses were saddled, and the -men waiting to escort me. This moment was one of the most melancholy -in my life; I reflected with compunction, that, while striving to -regain my freedom, I was apparently abusing the confidence of a man of -honor, who had done all in his power to merit my friendship. Agitated -by these emotions, and oppressed by a sadness which the thick gloom -of the night rendered more heavy, I was walking to and fro in the -neighbourhood, on the spot appointed for my guides to meet me, when a -voice, with which I was familiar, accosted me. The person was very near -me, but owing to the extreme darkness I could not see him. He asked me -what I was doing there. I replied, “only walking about.” “Don Juan,” -said he “you are going to escape to-night.” I answered, “indeed I am -not.” He replied, “you are; and the men whom you have chosen for your -guides are to murder you, to seize your money, and to bury you in a -ravine about a league distant. The man in whom you have most confided -has a knife concealed in his saddle, with which he is to give you the -fatal blow.” This so staggered me, that I was unable, at the moment, -to make any answer. I felt confident that no one knew of my intended -departure, except the two men and myself. On asking, “how do you know -this?” he replied, “I overheard them talking of it.” He added, “you -know they are both gamblers, and one of them killed two men last year.” -Ere I had recovered my surprise, so as to speak again, the man went -away. While meditating on the choice of evils, namely, whether to run -the risk of being murdered and thrown into a ravine, or to abandon my -design and remain a prisoner, one of my hired Peons came to inform -me that the horses were waiting. I told him I had a violent pressure -at my stomach and could not ride. He treated this very lightly, and -urged me with great earnestness to mount at all events. Considering -at this moment that money was of little value in comparison with my -life and liberty, I offered to give him two ounces of gold if he -would perform a piece of service for me, which I would explain to him -through my room-window at midnight. He still used every argument to -persuade me immediately to set out, but finding that I persisted in -alleging my indisposition as an excuse, he at length acceded to my -proposal. Having reached my chamber, I wrote to a magistrate at Monte -Video, who, I knew, would, if he had survived the assault of the town, -send an order for my liberation. When I had finished writing, the man -appeared at the window according to agreement; I gave him the letter, -charged him to convey it to Monte Video, and presenting him with two -ounces of gold, promised him another ounce if he should bring me an -answer. He departed unknown to any of our good family, and on the -fifth day following, in the forenoon, returned, to my inexpressible -joy, with a paper signed by Don Francisco Juanico, the magistrate to -whom I had written, stating that I was free, and ought immediately to -proceed thither. On receiving this welcome intelligence, I hastened -to Mr. Martinez, and joyfully embracing him, gave him the paper to -read; after examining its contents, he observed, that it was nothing -official, but would avail me as a reasonable pretext for going away, -to which he cordially acquiesced. He immediately ordered three Peons -and a trusty old Creole to accompany me, with twenty-five horses, that -we might perform the journey with greater expedition. The best dinner -was provided which the time would allow, and while partaking of it I -received the sincerest congratulations on my liberation from my worthy -host and his amiable lady. I then took an affectionate leave of every -branch of this good family, expressing my warm acknowledgments of the -many obligations they had conferred on me. Having joined my guides, we -each mounted a horse, and, at three in the afternoon, set off at full -speed, driving the rest of the cattle before us. My first horse bore me -forty miles, and I changed him at ten o’clock. The night was fine, and -after a rapid but pleasant journey, we forded the river St. Lucia and -halted at two in the morning, half way on the route to Monte Video. At -the house, into the _corral_ of which our horses were driven for the -purpose of changing them, I procured a slight repast of dried figs, -after which we again mounted and travelled tolerably fresh until six -in the morning, when we were again obliged to change, having proceeded -about one hundred English miles. Our horses now began to lose their -generous spirit, and were much distressed. As our progress became -slower and our changes more frequent, my anxiety increased, because I -was aware there were Spanish parties scouring the country about Monte -Video, and stopping the passage of all provisions from the interior. To -avoid suspicion, I rode in the dress of a Peon, with the lazo coiled -up and hung at my saddle. At eleven o’clock the heat of the day became -oppressive, and our horses flagged exceedingly. To add to my distress -I had a violent hæmorrhage from the nose, and could obtain no water to -drink or wash with, so that, through thirst and the coagulation of the -blood, I was nearly suffocated. On arriving within six miles of Monte -Video, our horses were nearly worn out; but no rest could be allowed -for either them or the men. At noon we reached an English piquet-guard -on the out-posts; after the usual questions I was conducted by a -soldier to the officer on guard, and having explained some particulars -to him, I rode to General Lumley’s tent, and afterwards into the town. - -No language can describe my emotions on beholding an English flag -on that tower in which I had been so often confined, and, on seeing -English soldiers in possession of a place where I had experienced so -much injustice and oppression. The joy I felt made me forget my fatigue -and the dangers I had passed through. I rode up to my friend’s house; -all was barricadoed, and I feared the worst might have happened; but, -on advancing to the window, I observed one of the ladies, who instantly -recognized me. All the family welcomed me most cordially, and invited -me to dinner, after which I went, in my Peon’s disguise, to visit some -of my friends. On taking possession of Mr. Martinez’s house, I found my -chests, &c. undisturbed, (although the town was taken by storm), and in -the same condition as when I left them on going into the country. - - - - -CHAP. III. - - _Expedition against Buenos Ayres.—Account of the Population of the - Country, and of the various Classes which compose it._ - - -WHEN the expedition against Buenos Ayres was ready to sail, I obtained -General Whitelocke’s permission to go with the army, under the hope -of recovering the property I had in that city, and offered my service -to the commissary-general, whom I accompanied. As the details of that -disastrous enterprise have been long before the public in an official -form, and as my own observations on the occasion are of no general -interest, the reader will excuse me if I forbear all mention of them, -and confine myself to some general remarks on the colony. - -The population of Buenos Ayres and its immediate suburbs, exclusive of -the country in its vicinity, has been ascertained to amount to upwards -of sixty thousand souls. The proportion of females to males is said to -be as four to one, but if we take into consideration that many men are -almost daily arriving from Europe, as well as from the South American -provinces, and that under the old government neither the militia nor -the marine was recruited from the mass of the population, we shall -find reason to conclude that the proportion of the sexes is not so -unequal. In the interior, the excess of males is very great, for as -the lands are granted in large tracts only, and but poorly cultivated, -there is no encouragement for the laboring classes to marry and settle -upon them. The poor are compelled to remain single, from the very bare -resources on which they depend for subsistence, and are accustomed -to consider the married state as fraught with heavy burthens and -inevitable misfortunes. It is not uncommon to find estates, larger than -an English county, with hardly more than an hundred laborers upon them, -who subsist upon the sale of a little corn, which each is permitted to -grow for himself, but only to such an extent as a single man can plough. - -The various races which compose the population are as follow: - -1. Legitimate Spaniards or Europeans. In Buenos Ayres there are about -three thousand; in the interior the number is very trifling, except in -Potosi, which, being a mining country, contains many. - -2. Creoles; legitimate descendants from Spaniards or Europeans. - -3. Mestizos, the offspring of European and Indian parents. - -4. Indians, almost all of whom have some mixture of Spanish blood. - -5. Brown mixtures of Africans and Europeans. - -6. Mulattos of various degrees. - -All these races intermix without restraint, so that it is difficult -to define the minor gradations, or to assign limits to the -ever-multiplying varieties. Few families are entirely exempt from -characteristics of Indian origin, physical as well as moral. It is well -known that in the Spanish colonies little regard is now paid to purity -of blood; the various regulations for preserving the races distinct -have gradually become obsolete. This may be regarded as a momentary -evil; but may it not be conducive in the long-run to the good of -society, by concentrating the interests of the various classes, which, -in remaining separate, might one day endanger the stability of the -government, as has been the case in the French colony of St. Domingo? - -In describing the orders of society in Buenos Ayres, it is necessary to -premise that I mean to class them, not by degrees of birth, rank, or -profession, but by the relative estimation in which they stand in point -of property or public usefulness. - -According to this scale, the first which comes under consideration is -the commercial class. Every person belonging to it, from the huckster -at the corner of the street, to the opulent trader in his warehouse, -is dignified by the appellation of merchant; yet few individuals among -them can lay just claim to that title, as they are wanting in that -practical knowledge so essential in commercial dealings. They are -averse to all speculation and enterprise; the common routine of their -business is to send orders to Spain for the articles they need, and to -sell by retail, at an exorbitant profit; beyond this they have hardly a -single idea, and it has been said that their great reason for opposing -a free trade with foreign nations, is a consciousness of their own -mercantile inexperience. The more considerable houses are almost all -branches of some European establishment; few of the Creoles have any -regular trade. Those among them, however, who engage in it, are much -more liberal in their transactions than the old Spaniards, and are -observed to make less rapid fortunes, for their manly and independent -character makes them spurn a miserable economy, and disdain to assume -that church-going hypocrisy which must be practised twice or thrice -a-day by those who would enrich themselves through the patronage of the -opulent families. Among the inferior tradesmen, those who gain most are -the _pulperos_, the warehousemen, and the shopkeepers. The _pulperos_ -retail wine, brandy, candles, sausages, salt, bread, spices, wood, -grease, brimstone, &c. Their shops (_pulperias_) are generally -lounging-places for the idle and dissipated of the community. In Buenos -Ayres there are about seven hundred of them, each more or less in the -interest of some richer individual. The warehousemen sell earthen and -glass ware, drugs, various articles of consumption, and some goods -of home-manufacture, wholesale and retail. The shopkeepers amount -to nearly six hundred in number; they sell woollen cloths, silks, -cotton goods of all sorts, hats, and various other articles of wearing -apparel. Many of them make considerable fortunes, those especially -who trade to Lima, Peru, Chili, or Paraguay, by means of young men -whom they send as agents or factors. There is another description of -merchants, if such they may be called, who keep in the back-ground, and -enrich themselves by monopolizing victuals, and by forestalling the -grain brought to market from the interior, much to the injury of the -agricultural interest. - -The second class of inhabitants consists of the proprietors of estates -and houses. They are in general Creoles, for few Europeans employ -their funds in building, or in the purchase of land, until they have -realised a fortune to live upon, which commonly takes place when they -are far advanced in life, so that their establishments pass immediately -into the hands of their successors. The simple landholders derive so -little revenue from their possessions, that they are generally in -debt to their tradesmen; their gains are but too commonly engrossed -by the monopolists, and having no magistrate to represent them, -they find themselves destitute of effectual resources against wrong -and extortion. So defective and ill-regulated are the concerns of -agriculture in this country, that the proprietor of an estate really -worth 20,000 dollars can scarcely subsist upon it. - -Under the class of landed proprietors, I may reckon the cultivators, -here called _quinteros_ or _chacareros_, who grow wheat, maize, and -other grain. These men are so depressed and impoverished, that, -notwithstanding the importance of their calling, and the public -usefulness of their labors, they are ranked among the people of least -consequence in society. - -The third class is composed of handicraftsmen, such as masons, -carpenters, tailors, and shoe-makers, who, although they work hard -and receive great wages, seldom realize property. The journeymen are -usually people of color; the masters for the most part Genoese, and -universally foreigners, for the Spaniards despise these trades, and -cannot stoop to work along with negroes or mulattos. Many of the lower -orders derive subsistence from these and other employments of a similar -nature; here are lime-burners, wood-cutters, tanners, curriers, &c. -The free porters constitute a numerous body of men; they ply about the -streets to load and unload carts, and carry burdens, but they are so -idle and dissolute, that no man can depend on their services for a -week together; when they have a little money, they drink and gamble, -and when pennyless, they sometimes betake themselves to pilfering. -These habits have long rendered them a public nuisance, but no -corrective measures have hitherto been taken, nor does there appear, on -the part of the higher orders, any disposition to reform them. - -Persons employed in public offices may be comprehended under the -fourth class. The best situations under Government are held by native -Spaniards; those of less emolument by Creoles; the former are regarded -as mere sinecures, and the persons enjoying them, are considered as in -no way serviceable to the community, except by spending their large -salaries within it. - -The fifth class is the militia or soldiery. Previous to the invasion -of the English, the officers were not much noted for military science, -or for that ardor which leads to the acquisition of it; their chief -ambition was to obtain commands in towns and villages, especially -those on the Portuguese frontier, where they might enrich themselves -by smuggling. The privates were ill-disciplined, badly dressed, and -badly paid. The effective force which the crown of Spain maintained -in these possessions, was one regiment of the line, which was to -consist of 1200 men, but was reduced to less than half; one regiment -of dragoons, amounting to 600, two of cavalry called _blandengues_, -600 each, and one or two companies of artillery. With the exception -of the _blandengues_, all the troops were originally sent from the -Peninsula, but not having for the last twenty years been recruited from -thence, their ranks were gradually filled by natives. By eminence they -were called veterans, but they have been of late disbanded, and their -officers have passed to the command of the new corps which were formed -on the English invasion. The force of these corps may be estimated at -nine thousand men. - -The sixth class is the clergy, in number about a thousand. The seculars -are distinguished by their learning, honor, and probity from the -friars, who are in general so grossly ignorant and superstitious, that -they render no real service to the public in any way, but rather tend -to disturb the minds of the honest and well-disposed. - -Every observation I was able to make, gave me a favorable idea of -the general character of the people; they are tractable, prudent, -and generous; and doubtless, had they been under a milder and more -beneficent government than that of the Spaniards, they might have -become a model to other colonies; but it is lamentable to add, that, -in points of morality, they cannot be considered as much superior -to the other inhabitants of America. This is attributable to the -want of a proper system of education for youth, to the pernicious -example afforded by the vices of the Europeans, and, in a word, to -the prevalence of an intolerant system, which, by aiming to make men -what they cannot be, causes them to become what they ought not to be. -The intolerant rigor exercised by the ministers of worship as well -as by the government, for the suppression of immorality, defeats its -own end; it is like the unskilful practice of a physician, which, -directed solely against the external symptoms, aggravates instead of -removing the disease. Thus, while open profligacy is discountenanced in -Buenos Ayres, libertinism of a more dangerous kind is connived at, if -not tolerated; the peace of the most respectable private families is -liable to be destroyed by votaries of seduction, who respect neither -the purity of female virtue, nor the sacred rights of matrimony. This -evil pervades all classes of society, and is the source of domestic -disputes, which often lead to serious consequences. - -In thus attempting to describe the state of Buenos Ayres, as I found -it in the year 1807, I have purposely avoided all discussions of -a political nature, and have declined entering into a detail of -the events which led to the present struggles of the people for -independence. - - - - -CHAP. IV. - - _Voyage to St. Catherine’s.—Description of that Island, and of the - Coast in its Vicinity.—Arrival at Santos, and Journey thence to S. - Paulo._ - - -ON my return to Monte Video, I lost no time in putting in execution -my purposed voyage to Rio de Janeiro; and as advices had arrived, -stating that considerable difficulty might attend the entrance of an -English ship into that port, I bottomried a Portuguese vessel, called -the Vencedor, and was joined by a party of gentlemen, whose business -required them to visit the capital of Brazil. - -In the beginning of September 1807, we had just embarked our stock -for this voyage, when an order for the immediate evacuation of Monte -Video by our troops was unexpectedly issued. As it had been generally -believed that a prolongation of the time for giving up the place had -been agreed on, the greatest hurry and confusion prevailed in embarking -the troops and stores, as well as the baggage of individuals. About -mid-day the whole was on board; a signal-gun was then fired for the -Spanish troops to enter, and about three in the afternoon we had the -mortification to behold their flag hoisted on the ramparts of this -important military post and commercial depôt, which the British forces -had, a short period before, so bravely and so dearly won. - -Having still some purchases to make, I returned on shore, with two -of my friends, about four o’clock, but we had soon reason to repent -of our temerity, for on passing the mole we were noticed as enemies -and threatened severely, so that we found it necessary to pass into -the more private streets, in order to avoid the malignant and hostile -taunts of those very men who had of late expressed themselves our -friends and well-wishers. Desirous of expediting our several affairs -as much as possible, we separated, and I was not able to rejoin my -companions until eight in the evening. I found them in great anxiety -for my safety; the Spaniards had fired a feu-de-joie from the citadel -and fort St. Joseph, and were now preparing for bonfires[9] and -illuminations, and my friends, though they did their utmost to avoid -the riotous crowds that paraded the town, had several narrow escapes -from being plundered and stripped by the soldiery. We all got safely -on board by ten o’clock, congratulating each other on having happily -avoided the dangers to which our rash confidence in the amicable -disposition of the inhabitants had exposed us. - -On the 11th of September we sailed from the Rio de la Plata; the -vessels bound for the Cape of Good Hope were then nearly out of -sight, and as we beheld them we felt a melancholy but proud delight -in reflecting that, after such grievous and unexpected reverses, our -brave countrymen were once more within their wide undisputed empire, -the ocean. After a voyage, in which nothing worth relation occurred, we -made the island of St. Catherine’s, on the 29th, at sun-rise, and we -were delighted with a grand and picturesque view of its conical rocks -rising abruptly from the sea, embellished with the lofty mountains of -Brazil, covered with wood, in the back-ground. This sublime scenery -interested us the more from the contrast it formed with the extensive -and woodless plains of Buenos Ayres. This island is situated in 27° 29′ -south latitude, and is separated from the continent by a strait, in -some places not half a league wide. - -Entering the port of St. Catherine’s by the north, we passed several -islands, on one of which, westward of the entrance, stood the -respectable fort of Santa Cruz. After running a few miles in shoal -water, we sailed into a narrow passage, guarded by two forts, which -forms the harbour. From the anchorage, and more particularly from -the landing-place, which is at the bottom of a verdant slope of -about five hundred yards, the town has a most beautiful appearance, -and the perspective is nobly crowned by its fine cathedral. The -green is interspersed with orange-trees, and forms an agreeable -parade. Immediately on entering the town, we discerned in its general -appearance, and in the manners of its inhabitants, a striking -superiority over those which we had of late visited. The houses are -well built, have two or three stories, with boarded floors, and are -provided with neat gardens, well stocked with excellent vegetables -and flowers. The town consists of several streets, and may contain -from five thousand to six thousand inhabitants. It is a free port. -The produce of the island consists in rice, maize, mandioca, coffee -of excellent quality, oranges, perhaps the finest in the world, and a -variety of other fruits. Sugar and indigo are likewise produced, but -in small quantities. A profusion of the finest flowers indicates the -genial nature of its climate; the rose and the jessamin are in bloom -all the year round. - -The surface of the island is varied with mountains, plains, and in some -places swamps; here is found a stratum of excellent red clay, which -is manufactured into jars, culinary vessels, large water-pots, &c. -which are exported in considerable quantities to the Plata and to Rio -de Janeiro. The lands capable of cultivation are under considerable -improvement; a great extent of them was formerly covered with large -trees, but as great quantities have of late years been cut down and -used for ship-building, good timber may now be considered scarce. They -grow flax here of a very fair quality, of which the fishermen make -their lines, nets, and cordage. The sea hereabouts produces an abundant -variety of excellent fish, and some fine prawns; so large is the supply -to the market, that a quantity of fish[10], sufficient to dine twelve -persons, may be had for a shilling. Meat is much the same in quality as -at Monte Video, being rather hard and lean; its general price is about -three halfpence per pound. Pigs, turkies, ducks, poultry, and eggs, as -well as fine vegetables and excellent potatoes, are plentiful and cheap. - -The trade of this place is inconsiderable, as the produce does not -much exceed the consumption of the inhabitants, who are in general -far from rich. It affords an agreeable retirement to merchants who -have discontinued business, masters of ships who have left off going -to sea, and other persons, who, having secured an independence, seek -only leisure to enjoy it. Few places are better calculated for such a -purpose than this; it is enlivened by the numerous coasting-vessels -from Bahia, Pernambuco, and other ports, bound for the Plata, which -frequently touch here; and it is amply provided with artisans of all -descriptions, such as tailors, shoe-makers, tin-workers, joiners, -and smiths. The inhabitants in general are very civil and courteous -to strangers; the ladies are handsome and very lively, their chief -employment is making of lace, in which they display great ingenuity and -taste. - -The mountains of the interior, and the rocks on the coast, are of -granite. Close to the fort, on the left hand of the entrance to the -harbour, is a vein of green-stone in various states of decomposition, -which ultimately migrates into clay of a superior quality to that -generally found in the valleys. The soil in the interior, being rather -humid, is surprisingly fertile. It consists principally of a rich -vegetable decomposition, on which shrubs and plants grow in great -luxuriance. Myrtles appear in all parts, and a most beautiful variety -of the passion-flower is found in equal abundance. Here is also a -profusion of roses, pinks, rosemary, &c. - -The animals are chiefly opossums, monkeys, and armadillas; there are -various serpents, among which is the beautiful coral snake. Of birds, -there are cranes, hawks, parrots, of various species, humming birds and -toucans, the latter of every variety in great numbers. - -The climate is serene and wholesome, its solstitial heats being -moderated constantly by fine breezes from the south-west and -north-east, which are the winds that generally blow here; the latter -prevails from September to March, and the former from April to August, -so that a voyage to the north, during one half of the year, is slow and -tedious. - -The island is divided into four parishes: 1st, Nossa Senhora do -Desterro; 2d, St. Antonio; 3d, Laguna; and 4th, Ribeiraõ. The -divisions of the opposite part of the continent are likewise under -the jurisdiction of the governor of St. Catherine’s, who is subject, -in certain cases, to the captaincy of S. Paulo, and in others to the -government of Rio de Janeiro. These divisions, are 1st, St. José; 2d, -St. Miguel; and 3d, Nossa Senhora do Rosario; the entire population of -the island and its dependencies amounts to about 30,000 souls. - -Of the fortresses which defend this island, the most considerable is -Santa Cruz before mentioned; there are four others, Porto Groed, Ratoé, -Estreito, and Conceição. Off the former there is safe anchorage for a -fleet of men of war, and the harbour which it protects may be entered -by ships of 300 tons, if not of a heavy draught of water. Ships passing -the channel are required to send a boat on shore at Santa Cruz before -they proceed. - -To the west of the island, on the opposite coast, is an almost -inaccessible barrier of lofty mountains, thickly covered with trees and -underwood. At a small port in the vicinity, called Piripi, which has -a very pretty river, an immense quantity of fish is caught, dried, and -exported. They are extremely fat, and very soon become rancid. - -On the continent, opposite the town of St. Catherine’s, stands the -pleasant village of St. José, the inhabitants of which are principally -occupied in sawing timber into planks, making bricks, and growing -rice. The net gains of a poor family here are incredibly small, but -the necessaries of life are cheap, and they have few incentives to -curtail their present enjoyments for the sake of improving their future -fortunes. Near this village is a lovely vale called Picada, thickly -studded with white cottages, embosomed in orange-groves and plantations -of coffee. The gently-sloping hills which enclose this spot, give a -picturesque effect to the bold rugged scenery beyond them. This valley, -and others contiguous to it, form the extremities of the territory -habitable by the Portuguese, for on the land to the westward, though at -a considerable distance, dwell the Anthropophagi, here called Bugres. -These savages live entirely in the woods, in wretched sheds made of -palm-branches, interwoven with bananas. Their occupation is chiefly -hunting with bows and arrows, but they frequently employ these weapons -in hostilities against their neighbours. A party of them will sometimes -way-lay a Portuguese[11], whose residence is solitary; they have even -been known to attack and destroy whole families. No regard to humanity -seems indeed to be paid by either party in their encounters; they are -mutually bent on a war of extermination. - -There is much low swampy land in the island, over which causeways, -supported by piles, are made to a considerable extent. These lands, on -account of their humidity, are very favorable to the growth of rice. -The palm-trees, seen at intervals in every direction, have a very -pleasing effect. The whole coast may be said to be almost uninhabited. -There are, indeed, some few settlements; but families scattered at the -distance of ten or fifteen miles from each other can scarcely be called -a population. - -Our stay at St. Catherine’s was prolonged by some unforeseen -circumstances, and we had time to make various excursions into the -interior of the island and to the adjacent continent. On one of these -occasions I happened to be absent, but the adventures which attended it -being rather amusing, I am tempted to relate them in the words of one -of my friends who formed the party. “Having hired horses and negroes -we set out early in the morning for the river Tavarinha. The road for -three leagues lay through thick woods, along which we passed without -any material accident, and arrived at the end of our journey about two -in the afternoon. We dined with Captain Leaõ, who entertained us very -hospitably, and would have persuaded us to prolong our visit, but we -determined to return that evening over the mountains. We travelled -for a league through a level, well-cultivated country, clothed with -orange-groves and coffee-plantations, and tolerably populous. At -sun-set we arrived at the foot of the mountains, and began to ascend -a steep and dangerous road, in the intricacies of which we were soon -bewildered, and had great difficulty to regain the most beaten path, -which led homewards. Night suddenly overtook us, and we had still three -hours’ journey over the mountains, without guide or attendant, along -a perfectly alpine road, winding on the edge of horrible precipices. -In this part of the journey two of us, having advanced a little, the -rest of the party were suddenly alarmed by a dreadful shriek, which -excited great apprehension lest some one should have been precipitated -down the gulph, but we were agreeably undeceived soon after by the -whole of the party joining us. We now heard a noise like hammers, which -proceeded from persons beating cotton, and in a little time arrived -at a house, where, on enquiry, we were informed that the town was ten -miles distant. We were proceeding, when a voice cried out in English, -‘but will not you stop and have some grog?’ It may be easily imagined -that to be thus suddenly hailed with one of the most familiar phrases -of our native English, while benighted in a strange land, operated like -an electric shock upon us; we immediately alighted at the house whence -the voice seemed to proceed, and found a Mr. Nunney, the English -interpreter, who furnished us with a guide; we now continued our way -with greater confidence, and reached the town about midnight. This Mr. -Nunney, as we afterwards learnt, receives a dollar _per diem_ during -the stay of every English or American ship that touches at this port, -whether his services are wanted or not, and by these means, with the -profits of the sales of provisions which he makes to such ships, he has -acquired a little fortune and a pretty estate. His profits, indeed, are -exorbitant, for he charges the articles 100 per cent. higher than they -can be procured at from any other dealer in the place.” - -While at the town of St. Catherine’s, we visited some of the gardens -with which its vicinity is embellished. They are laid out with great -taste, particularly one belonging to the vicar, another in the estate -of the late excellent and able General Soares Coimbra, and a third -the property of Colonel Gama. At Barragros, near the village of St. -José, we visited a gentleman of the name of Caldwin, who collects and -preserves insects. He showed us his grounds, which occupy a space -of eighty-five fathoms along the beach, and extend a mile inland, -containing orangeries, coffee, rice, and mandioca, in a fine state of -culture. These well-watered plantations, together with a neat house -and garden, he offered to sell for a thousand crusados (about £125 -sterling). - -This was not the only instance we remarked of the low value of landed -property here. About two miles from the town of St. Catherine’s, a neat -house, a small orangery and ground clear of brush wood, capable of -forming a pretty plantation, was offered at 100 dollars. An excellent -house, in one of the best situations in the environs of this town, with -a garden of about two acres well and tastefully planted, was offered to -be sold for £400 sterling. The building of the house must alone have -cost that sum and it was in perfect condition. In short, money appeared -so valuable, that a large landed estate might be purchased for a mere -trifle. - -On contemplating the many natural advantages of this island, I could -not but be struck with its importance, and was tempted to wish that it -were annexed by treaty to the dominions of Great Britain. Emigrants -might subsist here at a very cheap rate; and the isle is tenable -against any force so long as we remain masters of the sea. Ships would -trade to it from the western coast of America, and from the eastern -coast of Africa, and in our hands it would soon become an emporium -of commerce. It is adapted to almost every variety of produce; the -highlands are capable of cultivation, and the plains and valleys are -fertile even to luxuriance. The climate is humid, but its general -temperature is moderate and salubrious. If colonized by English, the -isle might be made a perfect paradise. Though not situated within the -tropics, it produces indico, rice, sugar-cane, pulse, and the finest -oranges in the world. - -Our excursions to the main land were not confined to the districts -immediately within the jurisdiction of St. Catherine’s. Proceeding -northward from St. José, we entered some fine bays, the shores of -which were studded with houses pleasantly situated amid bananerias, -orangeries, and plantations of rice, coffee, and mandioca. After -having passed several well-peopled parishes, we arrived at Armação, -a village at the extremity of a bay about nine leagues distant from -St. José, and four leagues north of Santa Cruz. This village is a -fishing station for whales, which were formerly very numerous on -that coast, and in the bays that indent it. The fishery is farmed by -government to a company under the superintendance of a _Capitao Mor_, -and a number of inferior officers. About 150 negroes are employed on -this station, but the number of whales now caught is not so great as -formerly, when the average was three or four hundred in a season[12]. -Their conveniences for flinching or cutting up the fish are extensive -and well-contrived[13]. Several fine piers project from the shore into -eighteen to twenty feet depth of water, on which are erected capstans, -cranes, and other requisite machinery. Hither all the fish caught on -the coast are brought. The boiling-house, tanks, &c. are far superior -to any thing of the kind at Greenland-dock, and indeed to all similar -establishments in Europe. To give an idea of their magnitude, it is -sufficient to say, that in one range there are twenty-seven very large -boilers, and places for three more. Their tanks are vast vaults, on -some of which a boat might be rowed with ease. We obtained a view of -these great works through the civility of the commander of the place, -Capitaõ Mor Jacinto Jorge dos Anjos, who lives here in a princely -style, and possesses a very considerable property, which he diffuses -with great public spirit and liberality. All who have visited Armação -can bear witness to his, affability and urbanity to strangers. - -We crossed this peninsula by a mountainous road of four leagues to the -Bay of dos Ganchos, commonly known by the name of Tejuco. Here land is -of little or no value; any one may take as much as he pleases of what -is unappropriated, provided he make a proper application for it to -the government. We passed two sugar plantations with conveniences for -making rum; and observed numerous huts interspersed in the vicinity. -The contrary side of this peninsula forms the bay before named. The -poor cottages of the people here present a curious picture of rural -irregularity; some are built on the summit of conical mountains, the -passage to which is frequently obstructed by clouds; others stand on -the sides of gentle acclivities; but the greater number of them is -situated almost in contact with the ocean, which often flows to their -very doors. The bay is from two to three leagues across, and extends -about the same distance inland; it is well-sheltered, and affords good -anchorage, and fine situations for loading timber, with which the -mountainous country around is thickly clothed, and large quantities -of which are felled and embarked for Rio de Janeiro and the Plata. -Canoes are made here, at a cheaper rate and in greater numbers than in -any other part of Brazil. The inhabitants grow rice in considerable -quantities, as well as some coffee and sugar; but such is their -indolence and poverty that they use only hand-mills, consisting of two -horizontal rollers, in manufacturing the latter article. - -Into this bay fall several streams formed by the mountain-torrents and -springs, and two tolerable rivers, the less called Inferninho, and -the larger Tigreno. They both flow through low swampy land, subject -to inundation, and overgrown with mangroves and an immense variety of -trees. The insalubrity of this tract might be corrected by clearing -away the underwood and draining the soil, but the arduousness of such -an undertaking might deter a more active and skilful people than this. -In the rainy season it is inundated to a great extent, and in summer -it is infested with terrible swarms of mosquitos and burachala flies, -which render it almost uninhabitable. The bay of dos Ganchos is a -most desirable place. The timber cut and shipped for Rio de Janeiro -might form, together with some of the sugars and spirituous liquors -made here, an advantageous article of export to the Cape of Good Hope; -but unfortunately there exists no stimulus to this sort of commercial -speculation. Here are no small vessels fitting out for cargoes, nor -will any person risk the equipment of a vessel to a distant part, where -there is so little certainty of returns. So common an enterprize as -that practised by ship-owners, in England, of sending out vessels to -wait for cargoes (up the Baltic for instance) is here unknown; and this -is a sufficient proof of the low state of commerce and shipping. - -Along the beach of this bay I found the shell of the murex genus, which -produces that beautiful crimson dye, so valued by the ancients. It is -here called _purpura_, and to my great surprise, its use is in some -degree known to the natives, one of whom shewed me some cotton fringe, -dyed with an extract of it, though ill-prepared. The shell is about the -size of the common whelk, and contains a fish, on whose body appears -a vesicle full of a pale yellow, viscid, purulent substance, which -constitutes the dye. The mode of extracting it, is to break the shell -carefully with a hammer, so as not to crush the fish, and then let out -the liquor in the vesicle with a lancet or other sharp instrument. I, -for greater convenience, used a pen, and immediately wrote my initials, -&c. on a handkerchief; the marks in half an hour after were of a -dirty green color, and on being exposed to the air a few hours longer, -changed to a most rich crimson. The quantity produced by each is very -small, but quite sufficient for such an experiment. The best time for -making it, is when the animal is in an incipient state of putrescency. -I have not a doubt that if a sufficient quantity of them were taken, -and the dying matter, when extracted, were liquified in a small degree -with gum-water, a valuable article of commerce might be produced. At -least the trial is worth making. The liquid is a perfect substantive -dye, and of course resists the action of alkalies. - -On the rocks, and in greater abundance on the trunks of old trees, I -observed a variety of lichens, some of which produced tints of several -shades of colors. The continual decomposition of vegetables here adds -greatly to the richness of the soil; it is not uncommon to find trees -lying on the ground with their interior substance entirely decomposed, -and a great diversity of plants growing on them in high luxuriance. -Among the numerous tribes of birds that frequent this region, the -aquatic afford good eating, as do also the smaller parrots. The woods -are filled with monkeys; and on the banks of the rivers are found -capivaras in considerable numbers. - -In coasting along this shore, it is customary for strangers to visit -the chief person in command at every station, whatever may be his -degree or rank; he, on being requested, will furnish guides, and afford -every assistance in his power. I always experienced the greatest -attention and civility from these gentlemen, and have reason to believe -that they uniformly pay the same regard to all who visit them for -permission to see the country. - -Ten leagues north of this place is the fine and capacious harbour of -Garoupas, with its handsome town; the anchorage is equally good as -in that of dos Ganchos. The inhabitants here pursue the same mode of -living as their neighbours in Tejuco. They have a fine climate, and a -soil which yields a hundred-fold for whatever is sown or planted in it, -and is noted for its delicious fruits. The cotton of which their common -clothes are made, is grown, spun, and woven among them; they build -their own houses, and form their own canoes, which they are dexterous -in managing, and prefer to boats. It may indeed be said that every man -is more or less an artisan; but I am sorry to observe that they prefer -ease to care and industry, and are by no means so good husbandmen -as those of Tejuco. This bay, as far as I could observe, during my -short visit to it, presents to the view a greater diversity of hills, -valleys, and plains, than the one before mentioned. Both are esteemed -fine fishing-ground during the whale-season, which is from December to -June. - -From hence northward is the fine harbour of San Francisco, in the bay -of the same name. It has three entrances defended by forts; that to the -south is most frequented. The land here is very flat for several miles, -and the rivers which intersect it are navigable for canoes as far as -the base of the great chain of mountains, where a public road, begun -at incredible labor and expense, leads over that almost impassable -barrier. This road will soon be a work of national importance to -Brazil, as through it the finest district in that country, and indeed -one of the finest in the world in point of climate, the rich plain of -Coritiva, will be connected with the ocean. The ridge of mountains is -more than four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and there is a -regular ascent for twenty leagues from their inland base, to Coritiva. -On this fertile tract are fed large herds of cattle for the supply of -Rio de Janeiro, S. Paulo, and other places; here are also bred mules -in great numbers. Its soil and air are so genial, that olives, grapes, -apples, peaches, and other fruits, grow to as rich a maturity as in -Europe, though they are here almost in a wild state. It is divided into -many parishes, but its population is small, compared with its extent; a -circumstance rather surprising, since every necessary of life is here -so cheap and in such great plenty. Its distance from the coast and -from the chief towns, and the hitherto bad road, may have contributed -to deter settlers; it is principally occupied as a breeding district, -and supports no more inhabitants than what are barely competent to -manage and tend the cattle, which are chiefly purchased by private -dealers, and sometimes by commissioners from government, who come -hither occasionally for the purpose. The road from hence to the city of -S. Paulo, distant about 80 leagues, is tolerably inhabited, especially -in the vicinity of Sorocaba, something more than half way, which is a -great mart for mules and horses[14]. Near this place is a well-wooded -country called Gorosuava, abounding with fine limestone, where a -considerable quantity of rich iron ore is found. How deplorable is -it that the people should yet have to learn the application of such -valuable resources! - -The neighbourhood of Coritiva is watered by fine rivers, which flow -into the Paraná. Many of the streams produce gold, particularly the Rio -Verde; and one called the Tibigi is rich in diamonds, as the few good -families in its vicinity have reason to remember with gratitude. More -to the westward it is dangerous to travel, since in that direction live -the Anthropophagi, who were driven from these boundaries a few years -ago. The country to the north is very full of wood. - -From its great elevation above the level of the sea, the climate of -Coritiva is peculiarly congenial to Europeans. Its soil is in general -rich, and the hills are peculiarly well adapted for the grape, which -here thrives as luxuriantly as in any part of Europe. On the low lands, -particularly those bordering on rivers and rivulets, are woods of -considerable extent, containing timber of enormous size, and fit for -almost any purpose. This immense tract of land is thinly peopled; the -few inhabitants that are scattered over it, occupy themselves chiefly -in the rearing of cattle, which, as it requires little or no trouble, -is almost the only business which is followed. At Sorocaba there are -held various market days and fairs, for the sale of horses, mules, and -horned cattle, which are attended by dealers from S. Paulo, Santos, -and more distant parts of Brazil. From this market mules are sent to -the Rio, and even to Villa Rica. Many smiths are employed at Sorocaba -in making shoes for the cattle, and a considerable number of men gain -a livelihood by training and domesticating these animals, for which -recourse is had to very severe methods. A fine mule, which has been -thus rendered tractable, will sell for four or five times the price of -one not yet “civilized;” the cost of the latter, if the animal be full -grown, and from two to three years old, will be about four dollars. -The horses, which are usually of the same value, are in general -handsome, with fine manes and tails, short necks, and in height about -fourteen hands. They are trained solely to the saddle, and are not used -as mere beasts of draught or burden. - -At the Rio, a good pair of carriage-mules will often sell at the -enormous price of 150 or 200 dollars; such is the difficulty of -rendering these animals tractable. Horses alone are used for the -saddle, the mares being reserved for breeding. - -Coritiva is not reported to contain gold or diamonds, yet, both these -valuable products are found in some parts of the district; a fact known -to but a few persons, who have profited greatly by keeping it secret. -This fine country, therefore, offers few attractions to the great mass -of emigrants to Brazil, who are commonly tempted by the very name -of the gold mines to settle in them, or are allured by the profits -accruing from plantations of cotton, sugar, or coffee, and look with -indifference on the pursuits of what is termed common agriculture. - -Although the soil of Coritiva is capable of producing the finest -wheats, the inhabitants, for obvious reasons, persevere in cultivating -mandioca. Wheat requires a series of preparations before it can be fit -for food; it must be thrashed or trampled from the straw; it must be -ground to flour, and afterwards divested of the bran, and must then -undergo the elaborate process of panification. Mills and ovens are not -among the first articles of convenience introduced into a territory, -newly colonized and thinly peopled; but on the contrary, any substitute -for the food, which they are instrumental in preparing, will be -preferred, if it demand less care and labor. Hence the mandioca obtains -the preference; it requires less culture than wheat, and when ripe, -may be converted into nutritious _farinha_ in half an hour; indeed -I have gathered, prepared, and eaten it as food in a less space of -time. It is therefore no matter of wonder, that the inhabitants should -continue to subsist on this aliment, and on pounded maize, rather -than on bread made of wheat, which demands so much greater a share of -attention and industry. Maize, or Indian corn, is grown in considerable -quantities, for the express purpose of feeding pigs, which constitute -a staple article for consumption. In every _fazenda_, salt pork, as -well as fowls, is invariably to be found; and bacon is cured in large -quantities, and sent to S. Paulo. - -The breeding of horned cattle, is left in a great measure to nature, -and is much less attended to than that of mules. Few cows are -domesticated; and the little cheese that is made, if I may judge of the -specimens I saw at S. Paulo, is of a quality almost disgusting. I did -not see any butter made here, and indeed the few products of the dairy -that are obtained, are considered of no manner of importance. - -The inhabitants lead an easy kind of life, in a great measure free -from the molestation of fiscal and municipal officers; they pay their -tythes with great cheerfulness, in kind, specie being rarely seen. -Their sole wants seemed confined to salt and iron; and it is much to -be lamented, that from the distance of the nearest sea port, and the -badness of the roads, these commodities are with difficulty procured. -From the same causes, the improvements which this delightful country -might derive from commerce have been retarded, and it is as yet very -inadequately provided with the means of exchanging its superfluities, -for articles of the first necessity. - -The chain of mountains which bounds the plain of Coritiva, is washed -at the base by a lagoon, communicating in a direct line with the -fine harbour of San Francisco, where many merchant-ships have been -constructed of the finest timber. - -In this place, although rather in anticipation of the regular course of -the narrative, it may not be improper to state, that, at the request -of his Excellency the Condé de Linhares, I submitted to the Court a -paper on the advantageous situation of Coritiva and the sea-port above -mentioned. Among other points, I suggested that an establishment might -there be formed for the joint purposes of rearing live-stock, and of -salting and curing beef and pork for the royal navy; that the culture -of wheat, and the manufacture of bread might be encouraged; and that a -depôt might be formed at San Francisco, from whence grain with other -articles of consumption might be shipped to any part of Brazil. Indeed -no other part of the country offers such temptations to agriculturists; -nor could a colony of them planted here fail to florish, if directed -by common prudence and moderate industry. The climate is salubrious; -the land consists of a beautiful diversity of hill, mountain, dale, -ravine, and woodland, watered by numerous streams, which take their -course, not toward the sea, but in an easterly direction, and flow -into the great river Paraná. Here are beasts of burden in unlimited -numbers, and a sea-port within two or three days’ journey. Here is land -of the finest quality where a plough was never used; here are mules and -horned cattle to be had on the cheapest terms; and yet the operations -of making butter and cheese are either unknown, or are practised in -such a slovenly manner, as to render the articles unpalatable. Here is -the finest timber; here are fruits of every kind, except those peculiar -to the tropical climates. What more then is wanted? An enlightened -and industrious population to improve the blessings which nature has -lavished on this district with so bounteous a hand. If agriculture, in -the miserable way in which it is now practised, produces sufficient -to exempt the people from want, what wonders might it not produce in -Coritiva, if followed according to the improved system of Europeans! -A numerous and industrious population would soon adopt this, and all -the other useful arts of life; the silk worm would be propagated; -the hidden stores of the precious products would be explored, and the -interest of posterity might be excited by the exhibition of silk, gold, -and diamonds, from the banks of the same river. Another luxury might -be superadded; since, from what I have seen of the grapes grown here, -there can be no doubt, that, where rocky lands occur, “the generous -vine” would thrive in great abundance, and Coritiva might in no long -period of time become the vineyard of this vast continent. - -The cattle at Coritiva sell at various prices; oxen, much fatter and -in better condition than those of the Rio de la Plata or of the Rio -Grande de S. Pedro, may be bought for about 14s. or 18s. a head. The -horses are in general finer than those of Buenos Ayres; mules for the -pack-saddle sell at about 40s. and those for riding at from three to -six pounds. There is, however great fluctuation in the prices, owing to -the occasional scarcity as well as the occasional abundance of specie. - -But to return from this digression to San Francisco. The chief -occupations of the inhabitants are the cutting of timber, and other -labors connected with ship-building. Vessels of large dimensions, and a -number of small craft for coasters, have been built here by merchants -of Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, and Pernambuco. When this trade is brisk, -there is a great demand for the various classes of artisans whom it -requires, and many negroes are employed. The wood used is so strong, -and holds the iron so firmly, that ships built of it endure many years, -and are in greater esteem with the Portuguese and Spaniards than -those built in Europe. On this account, the harbour of San Francisco -is likely to become of considerable value to Brazil; and as it is -connected with Coritiva, the cattle of which have been found superior -to those of Rio Grande, there is every probability, that at no distant -period the Portuguese navy will be here supplied with salt provisions. -This must, however, depend on the completion of the great road over the -mountains, to which the present administration have laudably directed -their attention, with a degree of zeal commensurate to the importance -of the work in a national point of view. - -I must not omit noticing another production in this district, which -will rise in utility and value as the port of San Francisco improves. -Toward the north there are woods of fine large pines, exceedingly hard, -tough, and full of resin. They constitute a singular variety of the -genus Pinus; the boughs branch off from the upper part of the tree -only, and have tussocks of leaves at each extremity. A tree eighty -feet high, for instance, will appear without branches to the height of -about fifty-five feet; the branches there extend horizontally in every -direction, with leaves at their extremities, the lowest and largest -to a distance of fourteen or fifteen feet from the stem, and the -higher ones gradually diminishing in length towards the top, which ends -in a tuft of leaves, as a crown for the whole. These trees are very -picturesque, and indeed beautiful; they grow to a sufficient size to -serve as masts for ships of two or three hundred tons; I was told there -were much larger ones to be found. - -Resuming our voyage, we left San Francisco, and, passing the port of -Cananea, arrived near the entrance of the harbour of Santos. The coast -along which we sailed is low and flat, and on its verge are some poor -fishing-huts, which rather add to the dreariness of its appearance. It -is covered with lofty trees, which also fringe the mountainous scenery -beyond it. Several rivers occur, of little note in geography, but -highly advantageous to the settlers, as they pass the very doors of the -dwellings, and afford easy means for the transport of produce from the -interior. On nearing Santos, we passed several bold rocks, called the -Alcatrazes, and a ledge or reef on which the sea broke furiously. The -main land is very elevated and mountainous, so much so that the low -grounds which extend from its base are scarcely perceptible from the -heights next beyond them. - -The harbour of Santos has a safe entrance, and is very secure; it is -a strait, having the island of S. Vicente to the left, for the extent -of half a mile, when it takes a different direction. Here is situated -the port, which has good anchorage, with regular soundings towards -the shore, which shoals gradually. The currents and eddies cause some -inconvenience, and the high land occasions much variation in the -winds, which perplexes mariners on their entrance into the narrows, -but as the water is not deep, and the current far from strong, a ship -is safe the moment her anchor is let go, and by means of a boat and -kedge she may be placed in any situation the pilot chooses. The part -called the narrows, is defended by two forts, on passing which there -is a kind of lagoon of three or four leagues in length, almost full -of mangroves, terminated by the town of Santos, one of the oldest -European settlements in Brazil. In common with S. Paulo, it owes its -origin to the first shipwreck on the island of S. Vicente. The river -or lagoon has three or four fathoms water and a muddy bottom. Santos -is a place of considerable trade, being the storehouse of the great -captaincy of S. Paulo, and the resort of many vessels trading to the -Rio de la Plata. It is tolerably well built, and its population, -consisting chiefly of merchants, shopkeepers, and artificers, amounts -to six or seven thousand souls. The situation is by no means healthy, -as the country around it is low, woody, and frequently deluged with -rain, by reason of the high mountains in its vicinity, which impede -the passage of the clouds. Several rivulets flowing from the foot of -these mountains intersect the land in various directions, and unite in -one great river a little above the town of Santos. The rice of this -district, which is grown in great quantities, is considered the best -in Brazil, and the bananas are equally noted. - -From this port the Spanish territories, as well as Rio Grande, receive -several vessels loaded with sugar, coffee, rice, mandioca, &c. in -return they bring chiefly hides and tallow, which are generally -exported hence to Europe. The Portuguese send much of their produce to -the Spanish colonies, and are generally ill paid, but the shortness -of the voyage, and the want of other markets, tempt many young men to -speculate, notwithstanding the heavy duties and the numberless petty -obstacles with which their neighbours have impeded and encumbered -this commerce. A Spaniard in his own country rarely allows even a -shadow of justice to a Portuguese; he uses a thousand artifices for -procrastinating the decision of a cause at issue between them, till -the latter, when his patience is completely exhausted, finds that -he is likely to derive nothing from the contest but immense piles -of law-papers, frequently written on the most trivial points in -litigation, and paid for at an exorbitant price. If he persevere after -all this disappointment, it generally happens that another _alcalde_ -or judge is appointed, and then the business is laid on the shelf. -The injured Portuguese, after so much waste of time and money, is -threatened with worse consequences, and frequently is obliged to leave -the country in ruin and disgust. - -As Santos is the embarking port of S. Paulo, its intercourse with that -town is very considerable. In the course of a day several hundred -mules frequently arrive, loaded with the produce of the country, -and return with salt, iron, copper, earthen wares, and European -manufactures. For the traffic of it’s immediate vicinity, it has the -convenience of water-carriage, its river being navigable about twenty -miles, up to Cubataõ, where an officer with a guard of soldiers is -stationed to receive the king’s duties for the repair of the roads and -other public purposes. - -The governor of Santos being subject in all cases to the governor -of S. Paulo, we applied to him for permission to go thither, which -was immediately granted. It was now eight in the evening, and we -were without an asylum for the night. I had several letters of -recommendation, not one of which procured us any civility, and we -found that the inhabitants were far from being courteous to strangers. -We were willing to impute this to want of convenient accommodations, -but it may be generally observed, that along the whole coast the same -shyness prevails, while in the interior the people vie with each other -in acts of hospitality. Perhaps in all countries this duty is most -practised where the occasions for its exercise most rarely occur. - -Being unable to procure a bed at Santos, we were obliged to engage -a canoe to convey us up the river to Cubataõ, where we arrived at -two in the morning, and were introduced into the guard-house for a -lodging. The corporal being called, he accommodated us as well as he -was able; we lay down on the softest planks we could find, and made -pillows of our portmanteaus, but though much wearied we found ourselves -little disposed to sleep on so uneasy a couch. At sun-rise, when we -got up, an extraordinary and busy scene presented itself; before the -guard-house was a large space of ground enclosed by the storehouse and -other out-buildings, and here a hundred mules were in the act of being -harnessed and loaded; the gentleness and tractability of these fine -large animals pleased us much, and the expertness of their masters, -particularly of the negroes, in placing and replacing the burdens, was -truly surprising. - -From the good corporal, who was commanding officer here, we received -every attention, and much more civility than we had reason to expect -from having experienced the unaccommodating disposition of the people -in Santos, in much better circumstances than himself. He procured us -a good breakfast, and furnished us with saddle-mules for our journey, -at the rate of ten shillings each, the distance being eight leagues. -Having obtained a guide we mounted, and proceeded about half a mile, -when we reached the foot of the stupendous mountains we had to -cross. The road is good and well paved, but narrow, and, on account -of the rugged acclivities, is cut in a zig-zag direction, with very -frequent and abrupt turnings, continually on the ascent. The trains -of loaded mules which we met on their way to Santos rendered the -passage disagreeable, and at times dangerous. In many places the road -is cut through the solid rock for several feet, in others along the -perpendicular sides, and it leads frequently over the tops of conical -mountains, along the edge of precipices, down which the traveller is -liable to be thrown into an impervious thicket full thirty yards below. -These dangerous places are secured by parapets. After ascending for an -hour and a half, during which time we made innumerable turnings, we -arrived at a resting place, near which, at a spot a little lower than -the road, we found water. This place, as our guide informed us, was -only half-way to the summit; we were astonished at the intelligence, -as the clouds were already so far below us that they obstructed our -prospect. During our progress hither, we observed that the mules travel -as quick on an ascent as on level ground; they much excel the horse in -uneven roads with sharp turnings, and still more so in bad roads. - -To attempt the geology of mountains so covered by vegetable matter -would be a difficult task; the component parts of those along which -we passed appeared to be granite, and frequently soft, crumbling, -ferruginous sand-stone. Some picturesque streams bursting from their -high sources form fine cascades, and in crossing the road force their -way through many detached and round masses of granite. The woods are so -thick in every part, except where the mules tread, that no soil can be -seen; the branches of the trees in some places meet and form an arbor -over the road, which shades the traveller from the heat of the sun, and -shelters him from rain. - -After resting for about twenty minutes we again mounted and resumed -our ascent. The road presented at times four or five zig-zags above -us at one view, and gave us fresh reason for astonishment at the -completion of a work so fraught with difficulties. The millions -of crowns which must have been expended in clearing the woods and -thickets in its course, and in cutting through the solid rock for a -considerable distance, as well as in paving it through the whole extent -of the ridge, afford no mean idea of the enterprising spirit of the -Brazilians. Few public works, even in Europe, are superior to it; and -if we consider that, by reason of the scanty population of the district -through which it passes, the labor bestowed on it must have been -purchased most dearly, we shall hardly find one in any country so well -completed under similar disadvantages. - -In three hours we reached the summit, a plain of considerable extent, -the lowest estimated height of which is six thousand feet. The -surface is chiefly composed of quartz covered with sand. The sea, -though distant twenty miles, seemed to us as if it washed the foot -of the mountains; the level part of the coast and the port of Santos -below us came not within the angle of vision. While we enjoyed this -sublime prospect, we were refreshed by a cool breeze, which renewed -our strength and spirits, and enabled us to pursue our journey with -alacrity. Advancing about a mile and a half, we came to a part of the -road which was cut several feet deep through the rock, and observed -in this quarter many small streams, which, though contiguous to the -sea, all flow in a south-west course to an immense distance, and, -uniting, form the great river Correntes, which joins the Plata. This -circumstance will sufficiently explain the form of this mighty ridge -of mountains, namely, that the highest and steepest side fronts the -sea, and that the other shelves more gradually and with more frequent -outlets to the plains of the interior. This part of the road is lined -by fine trees and large thickets on both sides. The heavy rains of the -season (December) had damaged it in various parts; the readiest mode -of repairing these breaks is to cut down several trees, about seven -inches diameter, place them across, and fasten them down with hooked -stakes. The mules which travel these rugged declivities, though far -more hardy than horses, frequently fall victims to fatigue; we observed -some dead by the way-side. In the course of our route we passed -several parties of negroes and some of Indians, working at repairs -in the road, or making new branches from it. Some of them I noticed -with swellings in the neck, though very different from those I have -observed in Derbyshire and other mountainous countries. In the case of -these Indians there not only appeared that protuberance from the glands -commonly called a wen, but lumps, of from half an inch to three inches -in diameter, hung from it in an almost botryoidal form. Persons thus -afflicted are called in the language of the country _papos_. - -After crossing several rivulets and passing a few houses we arrived at -a tolerable inn, belonging to an officer of militia, where we were soon -provided with plenty of milk, coffee, and fowls. It is distant sixteen -or twenty miles from S. Paulo, and may be considered as half-way -between that town and Santos. The owner, who was much surprised to -see Englishmen, treated us with every civility, and procured us a -change of saddle-mules. While they were preparing, he shewed us a -tract of land in front of his house, tolerably well cleared, where we -took an hour’s shooting. We then proceeded through a much more open -country, which bore the traces of former cultivation, and seemed of -late to have been much neglected. As we drew nearer S. Paulo, the road -improved, and was enlivened by a greater number of habitations in its -vicinity. We passed two convents, which had the air of convenient -houses, and were distinguished by large crosses erected before them. -The land was watered by several fine streams; in one part we observed a -quarry of ferruginous grit-stone, but we had not leisure to make much -mineralogical research. S. Paulo, although on an elevated site, is not -observed at any great distance in this direction. In its immediate -neighbourhood the river runs parallel to the road, which it sometimes -partially overflows, and covers with sand. To our left we saw a -large _estalagem_, or inn, where numbers of mules are unloaded, and -travellers commonly pass the night. It consists of a very large shed, -supported upon upright pieces of timber, with separate divisions for -receiving the cargoes or burdens of the mules, each traveller occupying -as many as his goods require; and there is a piece of ground of about -a hundred yards in circumference, planted with small upright stakes, -at ten or fifteen feet distance, to which the bridles of the mules are -tied while they are fed, saddled, and loaded. These _estalagems_ are -common in all parts of Brazil. - -On entering the town, although we had expected much from its being the -capital of the district, and the residence of the governor, yet we were -struck with the neat appearance of its houses, stuccoed in various -colors; those in the principal streets were two or three stories high. -Having arrived an hour or two before sun-set, we walked to the house of -a gentleman, to whom we had a letter of recommendation; but he being -absent, we were obliged to pass the night at the _estalagem_, where our -mules had been put up. It was a miserable abode. The next morning we -breakfasted with our friend, and were conducted by him to the governor, -Brigadier General França Horta, who honored us with an invitation to -dinner, permitted a perishable cargo of my friend’s property, which was -lying at Santos, to be unloaded, and gave us a general welcome to his -palace. We had the good fortune to find that two of his Excellency’s -aides-de-camp, men of excellent character, had been educated in -England. They assisted us in obtaining lodgings, rendered us every -service that we stood in need of, and shewed an earnest desire to make -our stay as agreeable as possible. - - - - -CHAP. V. - - _Description of S. Paulo.—System of Farming prevalent in its - Neighbourhood.—Excursion to the Gold Mines of Jaraguá.—Mode of - working them.—Return to Santos._ - - -S. PAULO is situated on a pleasing eminence of about two miles in -extent, surrounded on three sides by low meadow land, and washed at -the base by rivulets, which almost insulate it in rainy weather; -it is connected with the high-land by a narrow ridge. The rivulets -flow into a pretty large stream called the Tieté, which runs within -a mile of the town, in a south-west direction. Over them there are -several bridges, some of stone and others of wood, built by the late -governor. The streets of S. Paulo, owing to its elevation (about 50 -feet above the plain), and the water which almost surrounds it, are in -general remarkably clean; the material with which they are paved, is -grit-stone, cemented by oxide of iron, and containing large pebbles of -rounded quartz, approximating to the conglomerate. This pavement is an -alluvial formation containing gold, many particles of which metal are -found in the clinks and hollows after heavy rains, and at such seasons -are diligently sought for by the poorer sort of people. - -The city was founded by the Jesuits, who were probably tempted by -the gold mines in the vicinity, more than by the salubrity of its -air, which, however, is not excelled by any on the whole continent of -South America. The medium of the thermometer here is between 50 and 80 -degrees; in a morning I have observed it at 48, and even lower, though -I was not there in the winter months. The rains are by no means heavy -or of long continuance, and the thunder-storms are far from being -violent. The cold in the evenings was frequently so considerable, that -I was obliged to shut my doors and windows, put on more clothes, and -have a pan of embers in the room, there being no chimneys. - -Here are several squares, and about thirteen places of religious -worship, namely, two convents, three monasteries, and eight churches, -the greater part of which, as well as of the whole town, is built -of earth. The mode of erecting the walls is as follows: a frame -is constructed of six moveable planks placed edge-wise, opposite -each other, and secured in this position by cross pieces bolted -with moveable pins. Earth is put in by small quantities, which the -workmen beat with rammers, and occasionally moisten with water to -give it consistency. Having filled the frame or trough, they remove -it and continue the same operation till the whole shell of the -house is completed, taking care to leave vacancies, and put in the -window-frames, door-frames, and beams as they proceed. The mass, in -course of time, becomes indurated, the walls are pared perfectly -smooth inside, and take any color the owner chooses to give them; they -are generally enriched with very ingenious devices. This species of -structure is durable; I have seen some houses thus built that have -lasted two hundred years, and most of them have several stories. The -roofs are made to project two or three feet beyond the wall, in order -to throw off the rain to a distance from the base; spouts might be a -more effectual preservative against wet, but their use is little known -here. They cover their houses with gutter-tiles, but though the country -affords excellent clay and plenty of wood, very few bricks are burnt. - -The population of this place amounts to full fifteen thousand souls: -perhaps nearer twenty thousand[15]; the clergy, including all ranks -of religious orders, may be reckoned at five hundred. They are in -general good members of society, free from that excessive bigotry -and illiberality which is the reproach of the neighbouring colonies, -and their example has so beneficial an effect on the rest of the -inhabitants, that I may presume to say, no stranger will be molested -while he acts as a gentleman, and does not insult the established -religion. His Excellency the Bishop is a most worthy prelate, and were -the inferior orders in his diocese to follow his steps in cultivating -the sciences and diffusing useful information, they would command -greater respect from their flocks, and by that means further the -interests of the religion they profess. Priests, so ignorant, can -hardly escape contempt. - -No endemial diseases at present prevail here. The small-pox formerly, -and indeed of late, made great havoc among the inhabitants, but its -progress has been checked by the introduction of vaccine inoculation. -Surgeons attended at a large hall belonging to the governor, to which -the public were invited, and the operation was performed gratis. It -is to be hoped that the credit of this preventative will make its way -among the people here, for they are not competent to enter into the -merits of that controversy which injured it in Europe. - -Here are few manufactures of any consequence; a little coarse cotton -is spun by the hand, and woven into cloth, which serves for a variety -of wearing apparel, sheets, &c. They make a beautiful kind of net-work -for hammocks, which are fringed with lace, and form an elegant piece -of furniture, being slung low, so as to answer the purpose of sofas. -The ladies are particularly fond of using them, especially when the -heat of the weather disposes them to ease and indolence. The making of -lace is a general employment for females, some of whom excel in it. -The shopkeepers here are a numerous class, who, as in most colonial -towns, deal in almost every thing, and sometimes make great fortunes. -Here are few doctors, but many apothecaries; some silversmiths, whose -articles are equally indifferent both in metal and workmanship; tailors -and shoe-makers in great numbers; and joiners, who manufacture very -beautiful wood, but are not so moderate in their charges as the former -classes of tradesmen. In the out-skirts of the city live a number of -Creolian Indians, who make earthenware for culinary purposes, large -water-jars, and a variety of other utensils ornamented with some taste. -The greatest proportion of the inhabitants consists in farmers and -inferior husbandmen, who cultivate small portions of land, on which -they breed large stocks of pigs and poultry for sale. With these the -market is generally well supplied, and in the fruit-season is also -stored with pines, grapes, peaches, guavas, bananas, a few apples, and -an enormous quantity of quinces. - -Esculent plants are grown in great profusion and variety. Here is a -favorite bulbous root called the _Cará_, which is equal to the best -potatoe, and even more farinaceous than many varieties of that plant; -it grows to about seven inches in diameter, and affords excellent -food, either boiled or roasted. Fine cabbages, sallad-herbs, turnips, -cauliflowers, artichokes, and potatoes are in abundance; the latter, -though very good, are little used: the sweet potatoe is in greater -request among the natives. Maize, beans, green-peas, and every species -of pulse florish amazingly. Fowls are cheap, we bought some at -three-pence and sixpence each; small pigs from one to two shillings; -and flitches of bacon, cured after the mode of the country, at about -two-pence per pound. Turkies, geese, and ducks are abundant, and -reasonable in price; the latter are of the Muscovy breed, enormously -large, some weighing ten or fourteen pounds. Here is a singular breed -of cocks; they resemble the common English in plumage and shape, but -they crow very loud, and continue their last note for 15 or 20 seconds. -When their voice is good, they are much esteemed, and are sent for -as curiosities from all parts of Brazil. The cattle are in general -good, considering that so little attention is paid to feeding them; -when their pastures are full of grass, they are tolerably fat, but -when otherwise they become lean. A drove may be bought at 24s. or -30s. a head; beef at about a penny or three-halfpence per pound. The -curriers have a singular method of blackening cow-hides and calf-skins: -when they have prepared them for that operation, they search for some -mud-hole at the bottom of a ferruginous stratum, a ditch for instance; -with the mud they cover that side of the skin required to be stained; -and they prefer this material to the solution of copperas, probably -with reason, as the sulphate of iron formed by the decomposed pyrites -acts more mildly in this state than when applied in the common way. - -The horses are very fine, and in general docile; when well trained -they make excellent chargers. Their size is from twelve and a half to -fourteen and a half hands, and they vary in price from three to twelve -pounds. Mules, as we have before observed, are considered more useful -beasts of burden. The breed of sheep is quite unattended to, and mutton -is rarely or never eaten. Here is a very fine and large breed of goats, -whose milk is generally used for domestic purposes. The dogs are very -indifferent, and of no distinct race. - -In my walks round the city, I had frequent opportunities of examining -the singular succession of horizontal strata, that form the eminence -on which it stands. They lie in the following order: first, one of red -vegetable earth of variable depth, impregnated with oxide of iron; -below that, sand and adventitious matter of different shades of color, -as ochre-red, brown, and dusky yellow, together with many rounded -pebbles, which indicate it to be of rather recent formation; it varies -in depth from three to six feet, or perhaps to seven, and its lower -part is uniformly yellow: under this is a bed of exceedingly fine clay -of various colors, but for the most part purple; the white and yellow -is the purest in quality; it is interveined with thin layers of sand in -various directions. Then succeeds a stratum of alluvial matter, which -is highly ferruginous; it rests on a variety of decomposed granite, -containing hornblende, the proportion of feldspar apparently exceeding -that of the other constituents[16]. The whole is incumbent on fine -grained granite. The sides of the mount are steep, and in some places -nearly perpendicular[17]. - -The fertility of the country around S. Paulo may be inferred from the -quantities of produce, with which, as I have stated, its market is -supplied. About a century ago, this tract abounded with gold; and it -was not until they had exhausted it by washing, that the inhabitants -thought of employing themselves in husbandry. As they did so more -from necessity than from choice, they were tardy in pursuing those -improvements which other nations have made in this noble art, and, -pining at the disappearance of the precious mineral, considered their -new occupation as vile and degrading. Indeed throughout the whole of -Brazil, the husbandmen have ever been considered as forming a class -greatly inferior in point of respectability to the miners; and this -prejudice will in all likelihood subsist until the country shall -have been drained of its gold and diamonds, when the people will be -compelled to seek in agriculture a constant and inexhaustible source of -wealth. - -I shall attempt to describe the system of farming which at present -prevails in the neighbourhood of S. Paulo. It has been elsewhere -observed that, in this extensive empire, land is granted in large -tracts, on proper application; and we may naturally suppose that the -value of these tracts depends more or less on their situation. It -therefore becomes the first object of a cultivator, to look out for -unoccupied lands as near as possible to a large town; good roads and -navigable rivers are the desiderata next in point of consequence which -he attends to. When he has made choice of a situation, he applies to -the governor of the district, who orders the proper officers to mark -out the extent required, generally a league or a league and a half -square, sometimes more. The cultivator then purchases as many negroes -as he can, and commences his operations by erecting habitations for -them and himself, which are generally miserable sheds, supported -by four posts, and commonly called _ranchos_. His negroes are then -directed to cut down the trees and brushwood growing on the land, to -such an extent as he thinks they will be able to manage. This done, -they set fire to all they have cut, as it lies on the ground. Much of -the success of his harvest depends on this burning; if the whole be -reduced to ashes he expects a great crop; if, through wet weather, the -felled trees remain only half burnt, he prognosticates a bad one. When -the ground is cleared, the negroes dibble it with their hoes, and sow -their maize, beans, or other pulse; during the operation they cut down -any thing very much in the way, but never think of working the soil. -After sowing as much seed as is thought requisite, they prepare other -ground for planting cassada, here called mandioca, the root of which -is generally eaten as bread by all ranks in Brazil. The soil[18] for -this purpose is rather better prepared; it is raked up in little round -hillocks, not unlike mole-hills, about four feet asunder; into which -are stuck cuttings from branches of the plant, about an inch thick and -six or eight long; these soon take root, and put forth leaves, shoots, -and buds. When enough has been planted for the entire consumption of -the farm, the owner, if he is rich enough, prepares means for growing -and manufacturing sugar. He first employs a carpenter to cut wood, and -build a mill with wooden rollers for crushing the canes, by means of -water, if a stream is at hand, if not, by the help of mules or oxen. -While some of the negroes are assisting the carpenter, others are -employed in preparing ground in the same way as for mandioca. Pieces of -cane containing three or four joints, and in length about six inches, -cut from the growing stem, are laid in the earth nearly horizontally, -and covered with soil to the depth of about four inches. They shoot -up rapidly, and in three months have a bushy appearance not unlike -flags; in twelve or fifteen months more they are ready for cutting. In -rich virgin soil it is not uncommon to see canes twelve feet high and -astonishingly thick. - -The Indian corn and pulse are in general ripe in four months or -eighteen weeks. The average return is two hundred for one; it is a bad -harvest when it falls short of one hundred and fifty. - -The mandioca is rarely ready to take up in less than eighteen or twenty -months; if the land be suitable, it then produces from six to twelve -pounds weight per plant[19]. They grow very little indigo in this -neighbourhood, and what they have is of indifferent quality. Their -pumpkins are of enormous size, and small ones are sometimes served up -as table-vegetables, but more frequently given as food to the horses. -Melons here are scarcely palatable. - -In no branch of husbandry are the farmers so defective as in the -management of cattle. No artificial grasses are cultivated, no -enclosures are made, nor is any fodder laid up against the season -of scarcity. The cows are never milked regularly; they seem to be -considered rather as an incumbrance to a farm than a valuable part of -the stock. They constantly require salt, which is given them once in -fifteen or twenty days, in small proportions. The dairies, if such they -may be called, are managed in so slovenly a manner, that the little -butter which is made becomes rancid in a few days, and the cheese -is good for nothing. In this essential department the Paulistas are -deplorably deficient; rarely indeed is there to be seen a farm with -one convenience belonging to it. For want of proper places in which to -store their produce, they are obliged to lay it in promiscuous heaps; -and it is not uncommon to see coffee, cotton, maize, and beans, thrown -into the corners of a damp shed, and covered with a green hide. One -half is invariably spoiled by mould and putridity, and the remainder is -much deteriorated, through this idle and stupid negligence. - -They feed their pigs on Indian corn in a crude state; the time for -confining them to fatten is at eight or ten months old; and the -quantity consumed for the purpose is eight or ten Winchester bushels -each. When killed, the lean is cut off the sides as clean as possible, -the fat is cured with very little salt, and in a few days is ready -for market. The ribs, chine-bone, and lean parts are dried for home -consumption. - -The farm-houses are miserable hovels of one story, the floor neither -paved nor boarded, and the walls and partitions formed of wicker-work, -plastered with mud, and never under-drawn. For an idea of the kitchen, -which ought to be the cleanest and most comfortable part of the -dwelling, the reader may figure to himself a filthy room, with an -uneven muddy floor, interspersed with pools of slop-water, and in -different parts fire-places formed by three round stones to hold the -earthen pots that are used for boiling meat; as green wood is the chief -fuel, the place is almost always filled with smoke, which, finding no -chimney, vents itself through the doors and other apertures, and leaves -all within as black as soot. I regret to say that the kitchens of many -opulent people are not in much better condition. - -It may well be imagined that, in a country like this, a stranger finds -the greatest comfort and enjoyment out of doors. The gardens in S. -Paulo, and its vicinity, are laid out with great taste, and many of -them with curious elegance. The jasmine is every where a favorite tree, -and in this fine climate bears flowers perennially, as does the rose. -Carnations, pinks, passion-flowers, cockscombs, &c. grow in great -plenty; one of their most estimable shrubs is the Palma Christi, which -gives fruit the first year, and yields abundance of castor-oil, which -all families possess in such quantity, that no other sort is burnt. - -Bees are by no means uncommon; they are easily domesticated, and, I -believe, are perfectly harmless. Their honey is pleasant; the wax, -particularly that generally sold, which is taken from their nests in -old forest-trees, is very foul, but might be purified by a very simple -process. The woods contain a great variety of animals of the monkey -kind, and also beasts of prey, some of which have tolerably good fur. -Among the latter may be classed a peculiar species of the otter. -Insects are numerous, but the musquitos are not so offensively so as in -the Rio de la Plata. The animalculum, called the niagua or jigger, is -troublesome; it beds itself under the nails of the toes, and sometimes -of the fingers, but it may easily be banished by extracting it and -its bag of eggs with a needle, and filling the cavity with calomel or -snuff, for fear any should have remained. Reptiles, I was told, were -very numerous, but I saw few, except toads, which, in the evenings, -crawl upon the foot-paths, and even infest the streets of the city. The -_sorocucu_ or _jararaca_ (serpents) are said to be very dangerous. - -The woods produce large and durable timber, well calculated for -building. Of their trees, all of which retain their Indian names, some -yield very fine gums. The _jacarandá_, called in England rose-wood, -is here very common. Many of their shrubs bear beautiful flowers, -and are very aromatic. Among the innumerable creeping plants which -clothe the soil of their uncleared lands, there are some distinguished -as infallible antidotes to the bite of venomous reptiles; one in -particular, called the _coração de Jesus_[20], is universally esteemed. - -Beyond the plain which nearly encircles S. Paulo, the country is -hilly, or rather mountainous. Had the period of my stay been longer, I -should have devoted some time to a geological tour in that district; -but having urgent reasons to hasten my departure for Rio de Janeiro, -I had leisure to make only one excursion of this kind. The governor -invited me to visit the old gold-mines of Jaraguá, the first discovered -in Brazil, which were now his property, together with a farm in their -vicinity, distant about twenty-four miles from the city. We travelled -along a tolerable, and in some places, fine road, in a southerly -direction, for twelve miles, and crossed the Tieti. This river is here -considerably larger and deeper than in the neighbourhood of S. Paulo; -it has an excellent wooden bridge, free from toll. On its banks there -are some situations truly enviable; fine rich virgin lands covered with -timber, and capable of producing, not only the necessaries, but the -luxuries of life, in a hundred-fold degree, if properly cultivated. -It was melancholy to behold a territory, which, for its teeming soil -and genial climate, deserves to be called a paradise, neglected and -solitary, like that of Eden after the fall; while its infatuated -possessors, like the offspring of Cain, hungering for gold, kept aloof -from the rich feast which nature here spread before them. - -After travelling onward four leagues, we arrived at the ancient mines -of Jaraguá, famed for the immense treasures they produced nearly two -centuries ago, when at the ports of Santos and S, Vicente, whence the -gold was shipped for Europe, this district was regarded as the Peru of -Brazil. The face of the country is uneven and rather mountainous. The -rock, where it appeared exposed, I found to be granite, and sometimes -gneiss, containing a portion of hornblende, with mica. The soil is red, -and remarkably ferruginous, in many places apparently of great depth. -The gold lies, for the most part, in a stratum of rounded pebbles and -gravel, called _cascalho_, immediately incumbent on the solid rock. In -the valleys, where there is water, occur frequent excavations, made -by the gold-washers, to a considerable extent, some of them fifty or a -hundred feet wide, and eighteen or twenty deep. On many of the hills, -where water can be collected for washing, particles of gold are found -in the soil, scarcely deeper than the roots of the grass. - -The mode of working these mines, more fitly to be denominated washings, -is simple, and may be easily explained: - -Suppose a loose gravel-like stratum of rounded quartzose pebbles and -adventitious matter, incumbent on granite, and covered by earthy matter -of variable thickness. Where water of sufficiently high level can be -commanded, the ground is cut in steps, each twenty or thirty feet -wide, two or three broad, and about one deep. Near the bottom a trench -is cut to the depth of two or three feet. On each step stand six or -eight negroes, who, as the water flows gently from above, keep the -earth continually in motion with shovels, until the whole is reduced -to liquid mud and washed below. The particles of gold contained in -this earth descend to the trench, where, by reason of their specific -gravity, they quickly precipitate. Workmen are continually employed -at the trench to remove the stones, and clear away the surface, which -operation is much assisted by the current of water which falls into it. -After five days’ washing, the precipitation in the trench is carried -to some convenient stream, to undergo a second clearance. For this -purpose wooden bowls are provided, of a funnel shape, about two feet -wide at the mouth, and five or six inches deep, called _gamellas_. Each -workman standing in the stream, takes into his bowl five or six pounds -weight of the sediment, which generally consists of heavy matter, -such as granular oxide of iron, pyrites, ferruginous quartz, &c. and -often precious stones. They admit certain quantities of water into the -bowls, which they move about so dexterously, that the precious metal, -separating from the inferior and lighter substances, settles to the -bottom and sides of the vessel. They then rinse their bowls in a larger -vessel of clean water, leaving the gold in it, and begin again. The -washing of each bowlful occupies from five to eight or nine minutes; -the gold produced is extremely variable in quantity, and in the size -of its particles, some of which are so minute, that they float, while -others are found as large as peas, and not unfrequently much larger. -This operation is superintended by overseers, as the result is of -considerable importance. When the whole is finished, the gold is placed -upon a brass pan, over a slow fire, to be dried, and at a convenient -time is taken to the permutation office, where it is weighed, and a -fifth is reserved for the Prince. The remainder is smelted with muriate -of mercury, then cast into ingots, assayed, and stamped according to -its intrinsic value, a certificate of which is given with it; after a -copy of that instrument has been duly entered at the mint-office, the -ingots circulate as specie. - -My attention was strongly engaged by the immense debris or refuse of -old washings, which lay in numberless heaps, and contained various -substances that gave me strong hope of finding some interesting and -valuable specimens of tourmalines, topazes, and other crystallizations, -and also a rich series of rocks, which form the geognostics of the -country. So strongly was I prepossessed with this hope, that I really -fancied I had within my reach some of the finest mineral products of -Brazil. Early one morning, before the sun became too hot for work, I -set out accompanied by two or three men, with iron crows and hammers, -whom I had engaged to assist me. We broke up immense quantities of -quartzose and granite-like matter in various stages of decomposition, -and others of a ferruginous kind, but after pursuing the operation for -three whole days, until my hands could no longer wield the hammer, I -was obliged to give up the search as fruitless; not a grain of gold -did I find, nor anything of the nature of crystallization, except some -miserable quartz, a little cubic and octahedral pyrites, and some very -poor maganese! In short the substances presented so little novelty, and -were in themselves so ordinary, that I hesitated whether I should carry -them with me to S. Paulo. This disappointment at the first gold mines I -had seen, not a little dejected me. - -In company with the Governor and his lady, I now took a survey of the -farm; we walked and rode through extensive plantations, the productions -of which, as well as the mode of culture pursued, were similar to -those I have already described. Our next recreation was hunting the -deer. Let not the reader imagine that I am going to lead him a chase -through miles of country with a pack of hounds and a joyous company -of horsemen; the mode of hunting in Brazil affords no such diversion. -Three or four men go out armed with guns and attended by two or three -dogs; the men separate and wait in some open place; meanwhile the dogs -quest among the plantations and thickets; if they find, they drive the -game out, which the hunters immediately shoot. The deer are small, and -of the fallow kind; but their flesh is not esteemed. - -The wild animals of this district are chiefly monkeys, sloths, a -variety of the porcupine, and opossums. These, and other predatory -beasts, make great havoc among the poultry. Of the feathered tribe -there are not many varieties; I shot several snipes and beautiful -lapwings[21] with red horns on each pinion, about half an inch in -length. Here are great numbers of parrots and parroquets. - -The vampire-bat, so often described by travellers, is a most formidable -foe to the horses and mules. If he gets access to them in the night, -he fixes on the neck-vein, above the shoulder, and sucks it to such a -degree as to leave the animal almost covered with blood, fanning with -his wings all the while he retains his hold, in order (as it should -seem) to lull the pain caused by his bite. - -The garden has a bed of fine potatoes, which were planted three or four -years ago by Mr. Quarten, from Gibraltar. They are suffered to grow and -reproduce themselves from season to season, none being taken up unless -when wanted for food. Cabbages and other vegetables for the table grow -in abundance. - -This farm has the advantage of very fine timber in its neighbourhood, -and when the improvements, begun by the governor, are completed, it -will be well provided with water, brought from a distance of six miles, -in sufficient quantities to wash the hills, and to work the machinery -of a sugar-mill. On the estate were employed about fifty negroes, and -half that number of free Indians; the latter ate at their master’s -expense, and earned about sixpence a day; but they appeared far less -laborious and handy than the negroes. They were clearing grounds and -making walks in a wood, which when finished will render the place a -most agreeable summer retreat. - -Among the many marks of kindness with which the governor honored me, -I must not omit his repeated assurances, that in the event of war -between our respective countries, which was then talked of, he would -not detain me. After remaining here five days, which were rendered -as agreeable as possible by the polite civilities of my host, we set -out on our return in the order in which we came: the governor and his -lady in a carriage drawn by four mules, his aide-de-camp and myself on -horseback, and six dragoons in front, the guard usually attendant on -an officer of his rank. We arrived at S. Paulo without any material -occurrence. - -This city is seldom visited by foreigners. The passes to it from the -coast are so singularly situated, that it is almost impossible to avoid -the guards who are stationed in them, to inspect all travellers and -merchandize passing into the interior. Soldiers of the lowest rank -on these stations have a right to examine all strangers who present -themselves, and to detain them and their property, unless they can -produce passports. I and my friends in our way hither were thrice -obliged to exhibit our licence from the governor of Santos, which was -attested. Our appearance at S. Paulo excited considerable curiosity -among all descriptions of people, who seemed by their manner never -to have seen Englishmen before; the very children testified their -astonishment, some by running away, others by counting our fingers, -and exclaiming, that we had the same number as they. Many of the good -citizens invited us to their houses, and sent for their friends to -come and look at us. As the dwelling we occupied was very large, we -were frequently entertained by crowds of young persons of both sexes, -who came to the door to see how we ate and drank. It was gratifying to -us to perceive that this general wonder subsided into a more social -feeling; we met with civil treatment every where, and were frequently -invited to dine with the inhabitants. At the public parties and balls -of the governor we found both novelty and pleasure; novelty at being -much more liberally received than we were in the Spanish settlements, -and pleasure at being in much more refined and polished company. - -The dress of the ladies abroad, and especially at church, consists -of a garment of black silk, with a long veil of the same material, -trimmed with broad lace; in the cooler season black cassimere or baize. -In the same veil they almost always appear in the streets, though it -has been partially superseded by a long coat of coarse woollen, edged -with velvet, gold lace, fustian, or plush, according to the rank of -the wearer. This coat is used as a general sort of undress, at home, -in their evening walks, and on a journey, and the ladies, whenever -they wear it, appear in round hats. The appellation of Paulista is -considered by all the females here as a great honor; the Paulistas -being celebrated throughout all Brazil for their attractions, and their -dignity of character. At table they are extremely abstemious; their -favorite amusement is dancing, in which they display much vivacity -and grace. At halls and other public festivals they generally appear -in elegant white dresses, with a profusion of gold chains about their -necks, their hair tastefully disposed and fastened with combs. Their -conversation, at all times sprightly, seems to derive additional life -from music. Indeed the whole range of their education appears to be -confined to superficial accomplishments; they trouble themselves very -little with domestic concerns, confiding whatever relates to the -inferior departments of the household to the negro or negress cook, -and leaving all other matters to the management of servants. Owing to -this indifference, they are total strangers to the advantages of that -order, neatness, and propriety, which reign in an English family; their -time at home is mostly occupied in sewing, embroidery, and lace-making. -Another circumstance repugnant to delicacy is, that they have no -mantua-makers of their own sex; all articles of female dress here are -made by tailors. An almost universal debility prevails among them, -which is partly attributable to their abstemious living, but chiefly -to want of exercise, and to the frequent warm-bathings in which they -indulge. They are extremely attentive to every means of improving the -delicacy of their persons, perhaps to the injury of their health. - -The men in general, especially those of the higher rank, officers, and -others, dress superbly; in company they are very polite and attentive, -and shew every disposition to oblige; they are great talkers and prone -to conviviality. The lower ranks, compared with those of other colonial -towns, are in a very advanced state of civilization. It were to be -wished that some reform were instituted in their system of education; -the children of slaves are brought up during their early days with -those of their masters; they are playmates and companions, and thus a -familiar equality is established between them, which has to be forcibly -abolished when they arrive at that age, at which one must command and -live at his ease, while the other must labor and obey. It has been -said, that by thus attaching the slave to his master, in early youth, -they ensure his future fidelity, but the custom seems fraught with many -disadvantages, and ought at least to be so modified as to render the -yoke of bondage less galling by the recollection of former liberty. - -The religious processions here are very splendid, grand, and solemn; -they have a striking effect, by reason of the profound veneration and -enthusiastic zeal manifested by the populace. On particular occasions -of this kind, all the inhabitants of the city attend, and the throng -is frequently increased by numbers of the neighbouring peasantry for -several leagues round. The balconies of those houses, which command the -best views of the spectacle, are crowded with ladies in their gala -dresses, who consider the day as a kind of festival; the evening is -generally concluded by tea and card-parties or dances. - -We found very little difficulty in accommodating ourselves to the -general mode of living at S. Paulo. The bread is pretty good, and the -butter tolerable, but rarely used except with coffee for breakfast, or -tea in the evening. A more common breakfast is a very pleasant sort -of beans, called _feijoens_, boiled or mixed with mandioca. Dinner, -which is usually served up at noon or before, commonly consists of a -quantity of greens boiled with a little fat pork or beef, a root of -the potatoe kind, and a stewed fowl, with excellent sallad, to which -succeeds a great variety of delicious conserves and sweetmeats. Very -little wine is taken at meals; the usual beverage is water. On public -occasions, or when a feast is given to a large party, the table is -most sumptuously spread; from thirty to fifty dishes are served up at -once, by which arrangement a succession of courses is obviated. Wine -circulates copiously, and toasts are given during the repast, which -usually occupies two or three hours, and is succeeded by sweetmeats, -the pride of their tables; after coffee the company pass the evening in -dancing, music, or cards. - -I may here observe, that neither in S. Paulo, nor in any other place -which I visited, did I witness any instance of that levity in the -females of Brazil, which some writers allege to be the leading trait -in their character. I allude to the custom which has been said to -prevail among them, of throwing flowers from the balconies on such of -the passers-by, as they take a fancy to, or of presenting a flower or a -nosegay to their favorites, as a mark of partiality. The circumstance -which seems to have given rise to such an ill-founded conjecture is -this: flowers are here considered an indispensable part of the female -head-dress, and when a stranger is introduced to a lady, it is nothing -more than an act of common courtesy for her to take one from her hair -to present to him. This elegant compliment he is expected to return in -the course of the visit, by selecting a flower from the profuse variety -which adorn the garden, or the balcony, and presenting it to her. - -One singular custom I must not omit to notice, that of throwing -artificial fruit, such as lemons or oranges, made very delicately of -wax and filled with perfumed water. On the two first days of Lent, -which are here celebrated with great festivity, persons of both sexes -amuse themselves by throwing these balls at each other; the lady -generally begins the game, the gentleman returns it with such spirit -that it seldom ceases until several dozens are thrown, and both parties -are as wet as if they had been drawn through a river. Sometimes a lady -will dexterously drop one into the bosom of a gentleman, which will -infallibly oblige him to change his linen, as it usually contains -three or four ounces of cold water. On these days of carnival the -inhabitants parade the streets in masks, and the diversion of throwing -fruit is practised by persons of all ages. It is reckoned improper for -men to throw at each other. The manufacture of these missiles, at such -periods, affords no inconsiderable occupation to certain classes of -the inhabitants; I have been informed, that in the capital of Brazil, -many hundreds of people derive a temporary subsistence from the sale of -them. The practice (as I can testify) is very annoying to strangers, -and not unfrequently engenders quarrels which terminate seriously. - -During our stay here an unpleasant report was circulated, that the -port of Lisbon was shut against the English, and that war was daily -expected to be declared between the two powers. Had it not been for the -kindness of the governor in offering to permit our departure before he -should receive orders to the contrary, we should have felt ourselves in -a very disagreeable predicament. But news soon arrived that his Royal -Highness the Prince Regent had left Portugal with all the court, and -that they were embarked for the Brazils, under the escort of a British -squadron, dispatched by Sir Sidney Smith. This intelligence was most -joyfully received by the Brazilians; they considered, indeed, that -the occupation of Portugal by the French, was a disaster very likely -to ensue, but they consoled themselves with the hope of receiving -a Prince, in whose praise every tongue was eloquent, and to whose -cause every heart was loyal. The Brazilian empire was considered as -established; and the worthy bishop consecrated the auspicious era -by ordaining daily prayers in the cathedral, to invoke, from Divine -Providence, the safe arrival of the Royal Family. News of their having -touched at Bahia arrived in about ten days, and was welcomed by every -demonstration of public joy, processions, fire-works, &c. Hoping, every -day, to hear of their arrival at Rio de Janeiro, I made all ready for -my departure, and devoted the few remaining days to a second excursion -to the gold-mines, and to some farewell visits among my friends in -the vicinity of S. Paulo. The governor and many of the principal -inhabitants gave us parting invitations, and by their urbanity rendered -the last hours we passed with them at once delightful and melancholy. -Some of the latter accompanied us two leagues on our way, and on -separating testified the warmest wishes for our welfare. - -I never recal to mind the civilities I received at this city without -the most grateful emotions, in which those will best sympathize who -have known what it is to visit a remote city in a strange country, -where, according to the narratives of preceding travellers, nothing -prevailed but barbarism and inhospitality, and where they have been -agreeably undeceived. It may easily be supposed that I found it -difficult to reconcile the character of the Paulistas, such as I -beheld it, with the strange accounts of their spurious origin, quoted -by modern geographers. These accounts, founded on the suspicious -testimony of the Jesuits of Paraguay, and at variance with the best -Portuguese historians, have been of late most ably confuted by an -enlightened member of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Lisbon[22]. -He fully exposes the inconsistencies of Vaissette and Charlevoix, in -ascribing the origin of S. Paulo to a band of refugees, composed of -Spaniards, Portuguese, Mestiços, Mulattos, and others, who fled hither -from various parts of Brazil, and established a free-booting republic; -and he satisfactorily shews that the first settlers were Indians of -Piratininga and Jesuits, and that the city, from its first foundation, -never acknowledged any other sovereignty than that of Portugal. The -veracity of this account is further supported by the predominant -character of the Paulistas, who, far from inheriting the obloquy, which -an ancestry of rogues and vagabonds would have entailed upon them, -have long been famed throughout all Brazil for their probity, their -industry, and the mildness of their manners[23]. - - - - -CHAP. VI. - - _Coasting Voyage from Santos to Sapitiva, and Journey thence to Rio de - Janeiro._ - - -WE left S. Paulo at ten in the morning, and took the same road to -Santos by which we had come, there being no other, fit to travel. On -the following day, before noon, we arrived at Cubatão, where we were -detained by rain, until four in the afternoon. About seven we arrived -at Santos, and as we were provided with a letter of introduction to a -judge, and another to a merchant, we relied on a kinder welcome than -we had met with on our first visit, the more so as we came from S. -Paulo. We were, however, deceived. The judge received us coldly, and -when I asked him where the person lived to whom our other letter was -addressed, he seemed quite rejoiced at the opportunity for shewing us -out of his house. The merchant was as frigid as the judge, and made -us a paltry excuse. We then repaired to an apothecary, from whom we -had experienced some acts of urbanity, and who had attended one of -our friends, who, having left S. Paulo in a bad state of health, had -waited here three weeks for a passage to Rio de Janeiro. After telling -him our situation, and stating that the wet weather prevented us from -passing the night in our canoe, he kindly offered us his shop-floor -for a lodging, it being the only place under cover he had to spare. We -commissioned him to offer four dollars to any of his neighbours who -would admit us for the night, but he said it would be of no avail, as -the people of Santos were proverbially notorious for their want of -hospitality. The great influx of strangers and renegadoes from all -nations into this and other towns on the coast, had completely steeled -the hearts of the people against those claims on their good-will, which -the inhabitants of the interior, less frequently imposed upon, are ever -ready to acknowledge and to satisfy. - -Thus disappointed, we resolved not to wait at Santos for a ship, but to -proceed to Rio de Janeiro, along the coast, in a canoe. Having hired -one we embarked, and after rowing all night in a strait between the -continent and the island of S. Thomas, which forms one of the passages -to Santos from sea, we arrived by sun-rise at Bertioga, situated at the -north end of that island. It is a village, consisting of some tolerably -good buildings, erected for the convenience of the _Capitão Mor_ and -his attendants, who superintend a fishing establishment here, similar -to that near St. Catherine’s, and belonging to the same company, but -very much inferior in extent and capacity. At both places the most -expert of the negroes are employed in dressing whalebone, which is a -considerable article of commerce, though smaller and less valuable -than that of the Greenland whale. Along the coast which we passed, -are several fine bays, where, in the best times of the fishery, large -quantities of whales were annually caught. The buildings for boiling -the blubber and storing the oil were conveniently situated. - -The fine harbour of Bertioga is well sheltered from all winds, and the -town itself, being situated at the foot of a hill, is protected from -the inclemencies of the weather, and is at times inconveniently warm. -The basis of the hill is primitive granite, composed of hornblende, -feldspar, quartz, and mica. Fine springs of water, bursting from -various parts, give variety to the scenery, and an agreeable freshness -to the air. Though the place bore the appearance of poverty, we -observed no signs of want; the sea affords great plenty and variety of -eatable fish, and the soil produces pulse, of various sorts, and rice, -quantities of which we saw loading in boats for Santos. The people with -whom we had to treat used us civilly, and seemed anxious to anticipate -and to gratify all our requests. As the _Capitão Mor_ was ill, he could -not render us any assistance in procuring a passage for St. Sebastian; -we were therefore obliged to hire the canoe to go forward. - -A strong current setting in-shore detained us until midnight; we then -took advantage of a calm which succeeded, and rowed away for a headland -to the eastward, near which we arrived about sunrise, after a most -laborious passage. The shore was quite solitary, with the exception -of two very miserable huts, at which we could procure no better a -breakfast than muscles. The face of the country is low and sandy, -covered with underwood and groups of trees, and watered by rivulets -from a range of mountains apparently about two leagues distant. - -A breeze springing up about mid-day, we again embarked, but after -contending with both elements for four hours, we were obliged again to -take to our oars, in order to reach Porto d’Una before sun-set, which, -with considerable exertion, we effected. At this place we observed a -large plantation, belonging to a religious society at Santos, who hence -derive a great part of their maintenance. After waiting till two in -the morning for a change either of wind or current, we got out of port -and proceeded on our voyage to Rio de Janeiro. We rowed against the -wind till day-light, and then found ourselves near a bluff headland -with steep rocks, forming a good harbour for boats, called Toque Toque, -where we arrived about nine o’clock, having passed several conical -islands, which are not laid down in any chart that I have hitherto -seen. Off the point of Toque Toque, extends the fine island of St. -Sebastian; the strait between it and the main affords an excellent -passage, and a good harbour for ships of war. - -The wind still blowing fresh against us, we rested awhile, and were -amused by watching some fishermen haul their nets ashore with large -draughts of _cavallos_ in them. These fish weigh from fifteen to -twenty pounds each, and are caught in great numbers along this coast. - -Passing point Toque Toque at noon, we entered the strait of St. -Sebastian. Its width is about two leagues; the land on both sides is -bold and steep, and being well cultivated has a very grand and rich -appearance. The varied foliage of the trees, and the different shades -of verdure in the enclosures, combined with the romantic situations of -the houses dispersed among them, presented a view worthy the ablest -pencil; we had full leisure to enjoy it, for the wind being still -adverse, our progress depended on the toil of our wearied boatmen. -Several vessels, going the contrary way, passed us in full sail, -the crews of which added to our chagrin by ironically wishing us a -pleasant voyage. At four in the afternoon we arrived at the town of St. -Sebastian, situated on a low tract of ground about three hundred yards -from the beach. The inhabitants, amounting to two or three thousand, -are an indigent and not very industrious people; they subsist chiefly -on fish, which was the only food we could procure during the three -days we staid among them. There are some inconsiderable plantations in -the neighbourhood, where a little indigo is made, and some tolerably -good tobacco is grown. This town is noted (and formerly was much more -so) for its very large canoes scooped out of the solid timber; some of -them I have seen of almost incredible dimensions. The civil government -is entrusted to a _Capitão Mor_, whose authority is supported by a -garrison of ten or fifteen soldiers under the command of an ensign. -At the house of the latter we took up our abode, while waiting for an -opportunity to hire a large canoe to carry us to Sapitiva, near Rio -de Janeiro. The people with whom we had to bargain, used every petty -means to thwart and impose upon us, and our host shewed no disposition -to protect us against their chicanery, so that we encountered many -vexatious delays ere we could accomplish our purpose. - -This place is by no means a desirable, or indeed, a tolerable residence -for a stranger; it is exposed to all the inconveniencies peculiar to -low and sandy situations; the hot unwholesome weather, seldom refreshed -by a breeze, tends to multiply the immense swarms of mosquitos, which -constitute one of the plagues of the torrid zone. The neighbouring -island, on the contrary, being more elevated, has the advantage of a -freer air, and is therefore less annoyed by these troublesome insects. -It has the reputation of producing the best sugar, rum, and pulse, as -well as the finest cattle in all Brazil, and these advantages, joined -to its convenient situation, must render a plantation upon it highly -valuable. In common with the opposite shore, and the rocks observable -in various parts of the straits, the island appears to be composed of -the same variety of granite I have before described. Near the town of -St. Sebastian’s, I found some large pieces of green-stone, which, -when struck, emitted a very clear sound; fragments of limestone were -abundant on the beach, but these probably were part of some vessel’s -ballast, which had been thrown overboard in the bay, and washed ashore. - -Having at length hired a canoe, we embarked for a village about five -miles distant, called Bayro, where we arrived safe, and staid all night -at the house of a fisherman, who undertook the charge of our navigation -until we should arrive at Sapitiva. Bayro is a pretty but poor village, -built near the beach, and is chiefly noted as being the place where -most of the earthenware, used at Rio de Janeiro, is made. The clay -appears to be formed by the decomposition of feldspar. Here is a large -convent, well built, and finely situated, fronting the bay and near the -sea. - -About nine in the morning, we embarked in our canoe, which was forty -feet long, covered with an awning, and rowed by six men. In the -afternoon we arrived at Porcos, a fine, bold, conical island, with good -anchorage, but no port. Its coasts abound with excellent fish. Here -was stationed a guard of soldiers to prevent contraband trade, and to -give information respecting it; the officer, an ensign, made us welcome -to all he had, and treated us with great kindness during our short -stay. Leaving this place at two in the morning, we rowed through an -archipelago of islets, and arrived at Porto Negro, within four leagues -of Ilha Grande, and the morning following reached a bay in that island. -The land is, in general, very high and irregular; in the interior it -is well wooded, and contains some excellent iron ore, which is very -little known. Its coasts are but partially inhabited. The strait, which -separates it from the main land, is an excellent harbour in all its -extent, and was the rendezvous of some English privateers during our -war with Spain. The country, in its vicinity, is well clothed with -large timber, and appears very fruitful, but is thinly peopled by a -set of men, whose manners and pursuits denote them to be outcasts -from society. In the evening we entered a fine bay, and procured some -refreshment at a house on the beach, where we intended to pass the -night, but a plan had been laid to rob us, and we were obliged, on -discovering it, to re-embark before day-break, much rejoiced at having -narrowly escaped the loss of our property and our lives. Pursuing our -course among the many islands, with which this part of the coast is -studded, we passed the beautiful and fertile island of Madeira, and, -at noon, crossed two wide bays. A favorable breeze now, for the first -time, sprung up, which lasted until we arrived at Sapitiva, and here -ended our romantic canoe-voyage. - -I would strongly impress on every traveller, pursuing a similar course, -the expediency of providing himself with a soldier commissioned to -attend him, and to protect his person and property against the -evil-minded persons, who prowl about the coast in search of plunder, -and greedily seek every opportunity of securing, by fraud or force, the -property of defenceless passengers. We had more than once occasion to -rue the neglect of this precaution. - -At Sapitiva, we met with excellent accommodations. The owner of the -house at which we put up, furnished us with a plentiful supper of -fish, fowls, coffee, and excellent sweetmeats, which we relished -the more from having, for eight days, subsisted wholly on fish. Our -lodgings were tolerably comfortable, and were rendered more so by the -earnestness with which every one in the family strove to please us. -At sun-rise next morning, after diverting myself with shooting a few -horned plovers on the beach, I took a survey of the romantic scenery -around. Here are a few poor houses, and some plantations of indigo, -sugar, and pulse. The beach is lined with fine aloes, and presents -an interesting view of several islets in front of the bay, the most -conspicuous of which is Madeira, before-mentioned. In another direction -is seen that of Ilha Grande. Four leagues distant from Sapitiva is -Santa Cruz, formerly the property of the Jesuits, and now the royal -farm of the Prince Regent of Portugal, of which I shall have occasion, -in the sequel, to speak more at large. - -After settling with our host, we hired mules to carry us to Rio de -Janeiro, distant forty miles. Owing to the weight of our baggage, we -travelled but slowly: this, however, we did not regret, as the fatigues -of our coasting-voyage rendered us rather averse to violent exertion. -Proceeding through a low sandy country, covered with wood, for about -three leagues, we skirted the boundary of the Prince’s farm, which -encloses some of the finest and most fertile plains in South America, -and gives employment to upward of fifteen hundred negroes. We soon -afterwards reached the main road, which in general is very good, but -the lands about it are little cleared, and seem almost destitute of -cultivators. In the course of twenty miles, we saw only one house that -deserved the name of a plantation; the only dwellings by the way-side -were miserable huts and dram-shops, exhibiting deplorable symptoms of -sloth and poverty. Before sun-set we halted at a kind of inn, where our -mules were turned out to grass, and a supper was provided for us of -fowls, milk, and coffee. The house, though pleasantly situated on an -eminence among orange-groves and coffee-trees, was miserably deficient -in those conveniences which its exterior had announced. The room where -we supped was lighted by a small poor lamp, (here being no candles,) -and the floor was so uneven, that our table stood on only two of its -four legs. Tired with this cheerless gloom, we ordered our beds to be -unpacked, and retired to rest. The want of candle-light is a serious -inconvenience to travellers in all parts of Brazil, and no one ought -to undertake a journey without an ample provision of candles, with the -necessary implements for using them. Snuffers are articles of luxury, -very rarely to be met with, except as curiosities. I need not add that -beds are an equally indispensable part of a traveller’s equipage. - -We resumed our journey at an early hour next day, along an excellent -road in the middle of a valley, formed by lofty mountains. After -travelling about three miles, we came to a house, called the _Padeira_ -(bake-house), which is reckoned half way between Sapitiva and the -capital. From this place the road gradually becomes more enlivened by -dwellings and plantations, (but many of the former, are wretched hovels -erected for the sale of bacon, corn, liquors, &c.) and by numbers of -countrymen bringing produce from every part of the south-west, even -from the far districts of Goyazes, Coritiva, Cuyaba, S. Paulo, and -Mato Grosso. It is not uncommon to see eight hundred or a thousand -mules passing and repassing in the course of a day, besides numerous -droves of fine cattle for the use of the city. Our heavy-laden and -weary mules travelled so slowly, that we did not come within sight of -Rio de Janeiro, until about three in the afternoon. On reaching the -eminence, which commanded the first prospect of this fine city, our -joyful sensations banished every feeling of fatigue. One of the party, -who had advanced a few paces, rode back as fast as his mule could go, -exclaiming, “the English flag.” We hastened onward, and beheld one -of the most welcome sights that ever greeted the eyes of a traveller, -with a remembrance of his native country—a squadron of our men of -war at anchor in the bay, which had recently escorted the court of -Portugal to an asylum in their own dominions, beyond the reach of their -foes. We no longer felt uneasy at the thought of entering a large city -inhabited by strangers; we knew that the name of Englishman would be a -passport among them, and we anticipated something of that delight which -is connected with the near prospect of home. I, who had for eighteen -months lingered in exile, and beheld each setting sun close another -day of almost hopeless captivity, enjoyed this evening-scene with -indescribable emotion; it was here, that, for the first time since my -landing in South America, I had just reason to promise myself a night’s -repose in freedom, safety, and peace. - -We soon reached the suburbs, which are very large and pleasant, being -agreeably interspersed with gardens and pleasure-grounds. About five -o’clock we halted in the vicinity of Campo de Santa Anna, at an inn, -or rather hostelry for cattle, whence, having secured our baggage in -the miserable stall allotted to us, we sallied forth in search of the -friends who left us at St. Catherine’s. Accustomed, as we long had -been, to rude and solitary scenes, we were forcibly struck with the -opulence of this city, displayed in its magnificent buildings and -regular streets. While engaged in anxious enquiries after our friends, -we accidentally met one of them, who, with unspeakable joy, conducted -us to the rest; and the evening was passed most agreeably in relating -our several encounters, and in asking and answering innumerable -questions. Returning to our inn at midnight, we remained with our -luggage until morning, when we carted it up to the house of our friends -in Rua dos Pescadores. - -During our journey from Sapitiva to Rio de Janeiro, we had not much -leisure for geological observation. The stratum, in the course of the -route, appeared to be generally granite, like that before described. -In some parts we observed large stones, approximating to green-stone, -and in other parts we found fine clay. Nearer to the capital, -and particularly in the environs of St. Cristovão, the Prince’s -country-palace, the stratum has a gneiss-like appearance, and produces -some fine specimens of feldspar. In the precincts of the city, there is -an extensive flat, covered with mangroves, and overflowed by the tide. -At the foot of the mountains which bound it, are quarries of granite, -large blocks of which are raised for building purposes, as well as for -paving the streets of the city. - - - - -CHAP. VII. - - _Description of Rio de Janeiro.—Trade.—State of Society.—Visit to - the Prince Regent’s Farm at Santa Cruz._ - - -RIO DE JANEIRO has been so often described by former travellers, that, -were I to confine myself to the supply of what they have omitted, or -to the correction of their mis-statements, my task would be speedily -performed, but, as I have uniformly chosen to write freely from my own -observation rather than follow the track of others, I shall trespass -on the reader with a more detailed account than he might perhaps -require. It will, however, be recollected that the period at which I -visited this capital, being a political æra in the annals of Brazil, is -sufficiently interesting to excuse, if not to justify me in the attempt -to improve upon descriptions of an earlier date, though at the risk of -a little repetition. - -The finest view of the city is from the harbour[24], whence its -lofty eminence crowned with convents, and the hills in its environs, -interspersed with villas and gardens, have a rich and magnificent -appearance. The royal palace skirts the beach, and is seen to great -advantage from the principal landing-place, which is within sixty -yards of its doors. This palace, though small, is the residence of the -Prince Regent and the royal family: the mint and the royal chapel form -parts of the structure. Parallel with the beach runs the main street, -consisting of noble buildings, called Rua Dereita, from which the minor -streets branch off at right angles, and are intersected by others at -regular distances. - -Some idea of the extent of the city may be formed from the population, -which, including the negroes, (its most numerous portion,) is estimated -at a hundred thousand souls: the dwellings, at the out-skirts, are -generally of one story only. - -The numerous convents and churches are well built, and rather -handsome; the church of Candelaria, now finished, is in a superior -style of architecture. The streets were formerly incommoded by -latticed balconies, which had a very heavy appearance and obstructed -the circulation of the air, but they have been taken away by order -of Government. The greatest nuisances now remaining are those which -arise from the custom of persons of all ranks on horseback to ride -on the foot-paths, and from the preposterous hanging of shop and -house-doors, which all open outward into the street, to the great -annoyance of foot-passengers: I may also add the frequent pools of -stagnant water, which, from the lowness of the site, cannot without -much labor be drained away, and which, through the heat of the weather, -often emit the most putrid exhalations. Water for the use of the city -flows from the hills through aqueducts, and is distributed to several -fountains in various public places. It is to be regretted that there -are not more of these for the supply of the inhabitants[25], numbers of -whom live a mile distant from any of them, and are obliged to employ -persons continually in carrying water: many of the poorer classes earn -a living by selling it. The fountains in dry weather are frequently -so crowded, that the carriers have to wait for hours before they can -be supplied. The water is good, and, when kept in large jars, drinks -cool and pleasant. The inns and public houses are almost destitute of -accommodations, and so very uncomfortable that a stranger will not -reside in them if he can find a friend to take him in. House-rent, -after the arrival of the Royal Family, became equally high as in -London, owing, it should seem, to the dearness of building materials, -and the high price of masonry. Timber in particular is unaccountably -scarce, considering the quantity which grows in almost every part of -Brazil; even firewood is dear. Provisions are in general plentiful, but -not very choice in quality: the beef is very indifferent, and indeed -bad; the pork is better, and, if the feeding were properly attended to, -might be rendered fine; mutton is almost unknown, as the natives will -not eat it[26]; the poultry of every description is excellent, but it -is very dear. Pulse and vegetables of all kinds are very abundant, and -the fish-market is not ill supplied. Turtles are frequently caught, as -well as a great variety of fish; there are abundance of very fine large -prawns. The oysters and muscles, though not equal to ours, are very -tolerable. - -Owing to its low situation, and the general filthiness of its streets, -Rio de Janeiro cannot be called healthful. Improvements are now -making which will in part remedy these evils; but other causes tend -to increase the insalubrity of the air, and to spread contagious -distempers, the principal of which are the large importations of -negroes from Africa, who commonly land in a sickly state, the -consequence of close confinement during a hot voyage. It is much to be -regretted that the city was not originally built on the plan of those -in the Netherlands, with canals for brigs and small vessels, which -might then have been unloaded at the doors of the warehouses: such -an improvement would have also greatly tended to the cleanliness and -salubrity of the town. - -The police is by no means ill regulated; and, from the attention which -has been paid to it since the arrival of the court, there is every -hope that it will be placed on a footing equally respectable with that -of any European capital. The prisons are loathsome, and require the -benevolent genius of a Howard to reform them altogether. One great -step in favor of humanity has been gained: the inquisition has been -abolished, and with it the spirit of persecution, so that no one can -now be offended for his theological tenets, unless he openly insult the -established religion. - -This city is the chief mart of Brazil, and especially of the provinces -of Minas Geraes, S. Paulo, Goyazes, Cuyaba, and Coritiva. The mining -districts, being most populous, require the greatest proportion of -consumable goods, and in return send the most valuable articles of -commerce, hence innumerable troops of mules are continually travelling -to and from those districts; their common burden is about three hundred -weight each, which they carry to the almost incredible distance of 1500 -or 2000 miles. Their homeward freight consists chiefly of salt for the -consumption of the cattle, and iron for the working of the mines, and -goods of all descriptions. - -No colonial port in the world is so well situated for general commerce -as Rio de Janeiro. It enjoys, beyond any other, an equal convenience -of intercourse with Europe, America, Africa, the East Indies, and the -South Sea Islands, and seems formed by nature as the grand link to -connect the trade of those great portions of the globe. Commanding -also, as the capital of a rich and extensive territory, resources of -immense amount and value, it seemed to require only the presence of -an efficient government to give it political importance, and this -advantage it has now gained by becoming the chosen residence of the -court of Portugal. The benefits resulting from this great event had -but just begun to display themselves at the period to which this -narrative refers; and the commercial relations of Rio de Janeiro, -though considerably augmented, were still but in their germ. I shall -proceed to state them according to the best information I was then able -to procure. - -The imports hither from the River Plate, and from Rio Grande de St. -Pedro, consist in immense quantities of dried beef, tallow, hides, and -wheat. Those from the United States are chiefly salt provisions, flour, -household furniture, pitch, and tar. The North Americans generally send -cargoes of these articles on speculation, and, as the market for them -is fluctuating and not to be depended on, they frequently take them to -other ports. Their provisions are commonly sent to the Cape of Good -Hope. They bring European merchandize, which they exchange for specie -wherewith to trade to China, and also take in necessaries on their -voyages to the South Seas. - -From the western coast of Africa, Rio de Janeiro imports wax, oil, -elephant’s teeth, gum, sulphur, and some woods. The negro trade has -been restricted to the kingdom of Angola by a decree of the Prince -Regent, who has declared his intention of abolishing it altogether as -soon as possible. - -The trade to Mozambique is trivial; but, since the capture of the Isle -of France by the British has cleared that coast from French privateers, -it may be expected to increase. It affords many valuable products, such -as gold-dust, brought from the interior, ivory, of which the Prince -monopolizes the largest sort, ebony and other fine woods, drugs, oil, -excellent columbo-root, and an abundance of various gums, particularly -of the gum _meni_. The whale fisheries on the coast have proved a -source of riches to many speculators. - -The intercourse of this port with India, in common with Mozambique, has -been much annoyed by the privateers of the Isle of France, and will -therefore, in all probability, florish equally by their suppression. A -voyage thither and back is performed with great expedition: one large -ship of eight hundred tons sailed, loaded at Surat, and returned within -the space of seven months. A voyage to China seldom occupies a longer -period. The trade thither will no doubt be revived, and it is not -improbable that this port may, at no great distance of time, become an -entrepôt for India goods destined for Europe. - -Rio de Janeiro is conveniently situated for supplying a great variety -of necessaries to the Cape of Good Hope and to New South Wales; indeed, -of late years, English manufactures have been sold here so cheap, -that it has been found more advantageous to ship them hence for those -colonies than from home. Ships going on the South Sea whale-fishery -touch here, and lay in large quantities of spirituous liquors, wine, -sugar, coffee, tobacco, soap, and live stock. - -The imports from the mother-country consist chiefly in vinegar, -hardware, coarse linen, hats, silks, wine, and oil. From Sweden some -iron, also pitch and tar are occasionally brought: it is preferred to -English iron, particularly for mules’ shoes, on account of its greater -ductility. - -The exports consist principally of cotton, sugar, rum, coffee, rice, -ship-timber, various fine cabinet-woods, hides, tallow, indigo, and -coarse cotton cloths, in immense quantities, for clothing the Peons in -the provinces of the River Plate. Among the more precious articles of -export may be enumerated gold, in chains and other ornaments, diamonds, -topazes of various colors, amethysts, tourmalines, (that are frequently -sold for emeralds), chrysoberyls, aqua-marinas, and wrought jewelry. - -This market has been greatly overstocked with English manufactures, -in consequence of the sanguine speculations to which our merchants -were incited by the late emigration. The supply exceeded the demand in -a tenfold degree, and the excess gave rise to auctions, where goods -were sold at unprecedentedly reduced prices. In proportion as English -merchandize lowered, that of Brazil rose in value; and so great was the -demand for it, owing to the numerous vessels waiting for cargoes, that -within a year after the arrival of the Prince Regent, the price of -every article of produce was doubled. Gold quickly disappeared; for the -monied Portuguese, perceiving the avidity and impolitic eagerness with -which the English forced their goods upon them, cautiously withheld -their specie, and, by the alternative of barter, got rid of their own -produce at a very high price, and obtained our merchandize almost at -their own valuation. The losing party in this unequal traffic, though -they had chiefly to blame their own imprudence in engaging in it, were -loud in their complaints and remonstrances against the Portuguese -merchants. A treaty of commerce was concluded, by which the duties -on English merchandize were fixed at fifteen_per cent_. while other -nations were to pay twenty-four _per cent. ad valorem_. A judge was -appointed to attend solely to the concerns of the English, and to -see justice done them: he was entitled the _Juiz Conservador_ of the -English nation. The person who now fills this important office is one -of the most enlightened and upright of men; his official conduct, of -which I have seen much, has secured him the respect of all parties, and -has done credit to the choice of the Prince Regent, confirmed by the -approval of his Excellency Lord Strangford. Further to cultivate and -extend the interests of commerce, his Royal Highness has established a -Board of Trade, in which are some experienced and intelligent men, to -whose consideration every particular case, and every new regulation, -is referred. One of the members of this Board, Dr. José da Silva -Lisboa, has greatly distinguished himself by his zeal for the English -nation, displayed in various publications on commerce, particularly -in one dated May 1810, which contains a fund of solid argument on -the principles laid down and acknowledged by our most celebrated -statesmen and political writers. It is to be hoped that the diffusion -of views so liberal, under the auspices of ministers, will banish that -narrow-minded jealousy with which certain opulent individuals of the -Brazilian capital regard the English merchants, whom they stigmatize as -intruders; and that the general interests of commerce in this thriving -colony will gain, through fair competition, what they have heretofore -lost through overstocked markets. - -The business of the custom-house, although still shackled with many -troublesome and tedious regulations, especially with regard to small -articles, has been considerably simplified; and in all cases, where a -stranger finds himself at a loss how to proceed, he is sure to have -every difficulty explained, and every obstacle removed, by appealing -to the judge who presides over this department. The liberality and -disinterestedness of this excellent officer are the more generally -felt and acknowledged, from an apprehension of the inconveniences with -which his situation might enable him to embarrass the trade, if he were -inclined to a more rigorous execution of the laws. - -In mentioning the advantages which have resulted to the English -merchants from the liberality of the persons in office, I ought not to -omit stating that much has been effected through the exertions of the -British minister, who, while pursuing that conciliatory and moderate -line of conduct, which gained him the esteem of the Prince Regent, ever -firmly upheld the interests of his nation; and in all deliberations -concerning them, reserved to himself the casting vote. With respect -to individuals, it is true that he declined to be troubled on every -trivial occasion, and scrupulously discountenanced every covert -attempt at monopoly or peculation, from whatever quarter it came; but -in great questions he acted with promptitude and decision; nor was he -averse to use his influence in favor of a private individual, when -a candid and manly appeal was made to him. Considering the peculiar -circumstances attending his embassy, and also the jarring interests he -had to reconcile, Lord Strangford conducted himself in a way highly -honorable to his talents and character; and in continuing to merit the -confidence of his own court, secured that of the Prince Regent and all -his ministers. The treaty of commerce is a proof of the harmony which -subsists between them, and may be regarded on our part as the most -advantageous that, in the existing posture of affairs, could have been -procured. - -The harbour is easy of entrance and egress, generally speaking, at all -times, as there is a daily alternation of land and sea breeze, the -former blowing until about noon, and the latter from that hour until -sun-set. Ships find here every conveniency for repairing, heaving down, -&c. but it is to be hoped that docks will soon be formed, which will -render the latter troublesome and dangerous operation unnecessary. -There is an anchorage-duty paid, which forms an item in the bill of -port charges. - -Of the state of society in Rio de Janeiro, what I have to observe -differs little from the description of the Paulistas given. The same -habits and manners prevail at both places, allowing for some slight -variation, caused by the greater influx of strangers to the capital. -The Portuguese are in general rather punctilious and reserved in -admitting a foreigner to their family parties; but having once received -him, they are open and hospitable. The ladies are affable and courteous -to strangers, extremely fond of dress, but less proud than those of -other nations. In their mixed assemblies the utmost gaiety prevails, -and is seasoned by that finished politeness for which the Portuguese -are generally distinguished. The conversation of the best bred men, -however, is more lively than instructive; for education is here at -a low ebb, and comprehends a very limited course of literature and -science. It is proper to add that, since the arrival of the court, -measures have been adopted for effecting a thorough reform in the -seminaries, and other institutions for public instruction; and that -the Prince Regent, in his solicitude for the good of his subjects, has -zealously patronized every attempt to diffuse among them a taste for -useful knowledge. Under his auspices, the college of S. Joaquim has -undergone considerable improvement: a lectureship on chemistry has been -instituted, to which our countryman, Dr. Gardner, has been nominated by -his Royal Highness; and it is to be hoped that from this appointment -may be dated the introduction of experimental philosophy in that -establishment. - -Resuming my narrative, I am bound in gratitude to state that the -reception I met with here exceeded my most sanguine hopes, and far more -so any individual pretensions on which I could ground them. I must -attribute it to the letter of introduction to the Viceroy, with which -the Portuguese minister in London honored me on my departure thence, -and which I presented to his noble relative, the Conde de Linhares, -minister for foreign affairs. This distinguished statesman shewed me -every attention, and granted me every privilege I could ask, so that, -through his kind condescension, all went well with me. I may state -this without incurring the imputation of vanity, since it is only one -among the numerous proofs he has given of his disposition to serve the -English by every means in his power. - -A few weeks after my arrival, I solicited permission of His Excellency -the Conde de Linhares to work an iron mine at Guaraceaba, representing -at the same time the immense advantages which might accrue to the state -from such an experiment, by opening its own resources for the supply of -that useful metal. He in part assented to the proposal, but expressed -a wish that I should previously devote a few days to an inspection -of the Prince’s farm at Santa Cruz; and on my return make a report -of the state in which I found it. While preparing for my journey, it -was intimated to me as the Prince’s particular desire, that I should -endeavour to establish a dairy on the principle of those in England, -and direct the people in the management of it, to which I readily -assented. Being provided with horses and a soldier to attend me, I set -out on the journey accompanied by a gentleman named Paroissien, whose -amiable disposition and scientific pursuits rendered him a very useful -companion. After about fifty miles hard riding, we arrived at the farm -about six in the evening, much fatigued. The accommodations we met -with, fully explained to me the motive of His Royal Highness’s minister -in enquiring into the state of his domain. Having presented my official -letters, I was obliged to wait until ten o’clock before the slightest -refreshment could be procured; not a dish of coffee was to be had; the -only fare set before us was some lean beef half-boiled, certainly the -worst I had ever tasted in Brazil. The mulatto who attended us engaged -to have breakfast ready by seven next morning; we were in readiness at -the hour, and though told it was coming immediately, we waited three -hours, when just as we were ordering out the horses to Rio to avoid -being famished, the repast was announced, with an excuse that it could -not come sooner, because no milk could be procured. - -I then took a survey of the establishment and rode over the grounds. -The house, I was informed, was once a convent of Jesuits, who possessed -also the extensive tract of land attached to it, which they managed -much better than their successors, if we may judge by the remains of -their undertakings. The edifice is neither large nor grand: it is built -in a quadrangular form, with an open court in the centre, and galleries -inside to the first and second floors. The apartments are thirty-six in -number, very small, having been adapted to the use of the brotherhood, -and since their departure only in a slight degree altered and decorated -for the reception of the Royal Family, as their summer residence. In -front of the house, to the southward, extends one of the finest plains -in the world, two leagues square, watered by two rivers navigable for -small craft, and bounded by fine bold rocky scenery, embellished in -many parts with noble forest trees. This plain is clothed with the -richest pasture, and supports from seven to eight thousand head of -cattle. A considerable part of it lies low, and abounds with bogs, -which might easily be laid dry and rendered susceptible of cultivation -by proper drainage. The park occupies in its entire extent upwards of -one hundred square miles, a territory almost as large as some of the -principalities of Italy, and capable, by its proximity and connection -with the capital both by land and water, of being rendered one of -the most productive and populous in Brazil. Under the present system -of management it is in a progressive state of deterioration; two -small corners, the best of the land, one about half a league square, -and the other more than a league square, have been already, through -disingenuous artifices, sold off, and the rest may in no long time be -sacrificed to men whose cupidity stimulates them to depreciate its -value, unless proper means are used to thwart their nefarious designs. - -The negroes on this estate, including all descriptions, amount to about -fifteen hundred in number. They are in general a very excellent class -of men, tractable and gentle in their dispositions, and by no means -deficient in intellect. Great pains have been taken to enlighten them, -they are regularly instructed in the principles of the Christian faith, -and have prayers publicly read to them morning and evening, at the -commencement and close of their day’s labor. Plots of ground, at their -own choice, are assigned to each, and two days in the week, besides -the incidental holidays, are allowed them to raise and cultivate -produce for their own subsistence; the rest of their time and labor -is devoted to the service of His Highness. The system of management, -however, is so bad, that they are half-starved, almost destitute of -clothing, and most miserably lodged; their average earnings do not -amount to a penny per day each. A reform in the establishment might -have been easily effected on the arrival of the Prince Regent, but it -will now be very difficult, as the abuses have been tacitly sanctioned -by the indifference of those whose duty and interest it was to correct -them. In this extent of fine ground scarcely an inclosure is made; the -cultivated lands are full of weeds, and the coffee-plantations are -little better than a mere coppice-wood, in which the wild shrubs grow -higher than the coffee-trees. The cattle are most deplorably neglected, -and there is not upon the whole premises a horse fit for the meanest -beggar to ride. Such was the state in which I found this rich and -extensive district, which seems to have been destined by nature for the -introduction of improvements that might produce, through the influence -of high example, an entire change in the agricultural system of Brazil. - -A short time after I had taken up my residence at Santa Cruz, the -Prince came down, and on the day succeeding his arrival honored me with -a visit, after which I frequently rode out with His Royal Highness. He -one day did me the honor to express a wish that I would undertake to -govern the farm; this proposal I begged leave to decline, on the ground -of my inability to render such an employ compatible with my other -concerns, suggesting at the same time the superior service I could -render by working the iron mine. Notwithstanding this, the Prince, on -the day following, gave me a paper, containing an offer of the whole -direction of the estate, and stating the terms. The repetition of the -proposal not a little embarrassed me; I was aware that, by refusing, -I might probably debar myself from the prospect of any future favor, -yet I anticipated enough of difficulty in the undertaking to make me -decline it at all events. This dilemma occasioned me much uneasiness, -and in order to remove it I applied to Sir Sidney Smith, who was then -on a visit to Santa Cruz, requesting him to explain to His Royal -Highness the circumstances which rendered it impossible for me to -settle in Brazil, and to tender him the offer of my services during my -stay. After some further deliberation, however, I was induced to accept -the appointment, by way of trial, for a few months, under the express -stipulation that I should act without control. On entering upon my -charge I began by making such new arrangements as appeared conducive to -the end for which I was appointed, but I soon perceived that instead of -being principal intendant, I had a superior, who held me accountable -to him for my proceedings, and manifested a fixed determination to -thwart them, as innovations on the established course of things. -But this was not the only inconvenience; it was expected that I -should purchase whatever was wanted on my own credit; but I quickly -discovered, that instead of being reimbursed, according to agreement, -I was trifled with and at length in part defrauded. The person here -alluded to, was one the managers of the Prince’s household; he could -not bear that a foreigner should interfere in a concern over which -he claimed authority, and hold a situation where real services might -induce a comparison unfavorable to those which he contented himself -with rendering. A detail of the artifices and insults which this man -employed to disgust me with the situation, when he found I would not -submit to be his servile drudge, would be tedious; suffice it to say, -that, perceiving no chance of obtaining that discretionary power, which -alone could enable me to be essentially useful, I peremptorily refused -to act any longer. Alarmed at this determination, he at first strove to -overawe and then conciliate me, but I had seen too much of his conduct -to be duped by this stratagem, or to suppose that any cordiality could -in future subsist between us. Imagining himself armed with royal power, -he attempted to play the tyrant, but the reception he met with quickly -forced him to resume his natural character. I did not hesitate to send -in my resignation, and he had the mortification to find that the means -he had employed to embarrass and enslave me, restored me to liberty. - -In the letter which announced my determination to give up the employ, I -thought proper to omit stating to His Excellency the Conde de Linhares, -the reasons that led me to this step. Had that nobleman been apprised -of the disagreeable circumstances in which I was placed, he would, I -am confident, have done his utmost to remove them. - -On my return to Rio de Janeiro, the Prince sent for me, and desired -me again and again to return to Santa Cruz; I contented myself with -a simple excuse; for that was not a time, nor was I in a place to -enter into explanations. It is well known, that a system of intrigue -prevailed near His Royal Highness’s person, which often tended to -counteract representations on matters of the greatest importance. - -In this place, I shall take leave to introduce some remarks on the -province of Rio de Janeiro, from the pen of my friend, the Baron Von -Langsdorff, His communication is dated November 20, 1820. - -“The province of Rio de Janeiro, being situated on the confines, and -without the tropic of Capricorn, is in general, in consequence of -that situation, less warm than the countries which lie near the line. -The whole territory extending 90 leagues in length and 35 in breadth -is mountainous, with the exception of the district of Goytacazes, -usually called Campos. It is therefore naturally divided into high -and low lands. In the latter the heat is as great as in the other -countries between the tropics, and consequently favorable to the -culture of coffee, sugar, cotton, indigo, cocoa, rice, and other -colonial productions, as well as to the growth of the most valuable -trees of India, and of its exquisite fruits and spiceries, many of -which have been introduced with success. The mango, the tea-plant, the -bread-fruit tree, from the islands of the Pacific, thrive well here, -as well as the camphire of Japan, the ginger, the cardamum, and the -casawarine of New Holland. - -“On the mountains, which rise to the height of three thousand English -feet, which are covered to the summit with impenetrable virgin forests, -and of which the smiling valleys are watered by limpid streams, the -temperature is as various as the productions. The forests abound in -game, and in every kind of wood for ornamental work. In the grounds -newly cleared, the fruit-trees and plants of Europe, the peach, the -fig, the vine, the quince, and the strawberry, are cultivated with -surprising success. - -“The fruits of the country are remarkable for their variety as well -as their abundance. Here are bananas, plantains, guyapas, onenas, -oranges, citrons, lemons, pomegranates, many delicate species of the -genus _Eugenia_, as the pitangas, jambas, and cromischamas; besides -an infinite number of other plants, still in their natural state, -which require only the industry of man to improve and add them to the -comforts of civilized life. - -“In short, by its situation, its climate, and its products, indigenous -as well as exotic, this country claims distinction as the most happy -and naturally independent, on the face of the globe. - -“With regard to climate, there is no winter or summer. The heat is -never excessive, and there is no sensible cold. The whole year appears -a continual spring. The uninterrupted verdure, the vivid and varied -color of the flowers which cover the highest trees of the forests, -and which, appearing to change their form and aspect every month, -constantly surround us with a new world, and fill the most insensible -minds with astonishment and admiration. - -“Culinary vegetables and roots, as cabbages, radishes, turnips, -cucumbers, melons, French-beans, potatoes, maize, mandioca, bananas, -and various other products of the first necessity, may be planted -and gathered every day of the year in the mountains as well as in -the plain. As heat and humidity exist here in the most favorable -proportions, it will be readily concluded that vegetation must be -extremely rapid. Of this there are extraordinary instances. Father -Correia, one of the principal farmers of this province, settled at -Estrella, has sown a measure of rice, and gathered more than 500 in -return. The writer of these remarks was astonished at seeing rice grown -on high lands which had not been inundated. It appears to be sufficient -that the soil be humid, and that the rains do not fail. The common -return for maize is 120 or 130 for one. The coffee plant is easily -cultivated, and in favorable soils begins to bear fruit at the end of -two years and a half. It is not uncommon to find plantations of coffee -trees, which yield from ten to fifteen pounds of coffee a year. Grafts -from peaches form, in two years, trees from two to three inches in -diameter, loaded with fruit. Baron Langsdorff saw orange trees loaded -with fruit, raised within three years from seed. In the government -nursery at Lagoa de Tristes, may be seen alleys of _mimosa lebbeck_, -_black wood_, the seeds of which were brought from the Isle of France. -Within three years the trees grew to the height of from twenty to -thirty feet, and in thickness from eight to ten inches in diameter.” - -The description extends into a multitude of details; but enough, it is -presumed, has been given, to afford an idea of the fine climate, the -fertile soil, and the richly varied products of this province of Brazil. - - - - -CHAP. VIII. - - _Journey to Canta Gallo._ - - -SOME time after my return from Santa Cruz, a circumstance of a singular -nature took place, which occasioned me to undertake a journey to a -district called Canta Gallo, distant about forty leagues from the -capital, and one of the latest discovered in this part of Brazil. Two -men reported that they had there found a mine of silver, and brought -to the mint a quantity of earthy matter reduced to powder, from which -was smelted a small ingot of that metal. This report being officially -laid before His Excellency the Conde de Linhares, I was solicited to go -to Canta Gallo, and investigate the business on the spot, the two men -being ordered to meet me there. Before I proceed to relate the result -of my inquiry, I shall briefly describe whatever I observed worthy of -note in the course of the journey. - -Being provided with a passport, and also a sketch of the route, taken -from a MS. map in the archives, I departed from Rio on the 10th -of April, 1809, accompanied by Dr. Gardner, the gentleman already -mentioned as lecturer on chemistry at the college of S. Joaquim. Having -to pass to the bottom of the harbour, towards the north, we embarked -in a small vessel, and being favored with a strong sea-breeze, ran -down to the entrance of the fine river Macacu, which we reached after -a five hours’ sail. The wind then dying, our boatmen took to their -oars, and proceeding up the river, we reached a house called Villa -Nova, where numbers of market-boats for Rio, were waiting for the -land-wind and the turn of the tide. After taking some refreshment here, -we rowed onward until the river became so narrow, that the vessel -frequently touched the bank on each side, and the men were obliged to -push her along with poles. At day-break we reached Porto das Caixas, -a place of great resort from the interior, being the station where -the mules discharge their loads of produce from the many plantations -in the neighbourhood. The town consists of several poor houses, and -of stores where goods are deposited for embarkation. The stratum -hereabouts is primitive granite, covered with fine strong clay. -Leaving this place, we proceeded for some distance and came to a large -swamp, which we navigated in a canoe, with very little difficulty, and -shortly afterwards arrived at the village of Macacu. It stands on a -small eminence in the midst of a fine plain, watered by a considerable -stream, over which there are two good bridges. Though almost at the -base of the chain of the mountains that forms a barrier along the -coast, the neighbourhood affords some fine situations; the land, in -general, consists of a strong clay, but appears much worn out. The -commander, Colonel Jose, to whom I introduced myself, gave me a very -polite reception, as did also the brethren of the convent, to whom I -paid a visit. I passed the night at the house of the _Escrivão_, a -worthy gentleman, whose hospitality I still remember with peculiar -gratitude, because it seemed to proceed, not from a cold sense of duty, -but from the impulse of a warm and generous heart. - -On the following day, being accommodated by the colonel with a horse -and guide, I proceeded along the winding banks of the river, which, in -many places, present most beautiful views. Here was more cultivated -land than I expected to see; but the sugar-plantations, and, in -general, the low pasture-grounds, are quite neglected. We passed -several farms belonging to convents, which, from their apparent -condition, and the accounts we received, do little more than maintain -the negroes and incumbents upon them. There was rarely a milch cow to -be met with: pigs and poultry were equally scarce. The population of -these fine valleys is deplorably thin and poor; there was a general -sickliness in the looks of the women and children, which may be imputed -to their miserable diet and inactive life. I ought to state that the -manners of the people here are mild and gentle; we were every where -treated with civility, and all our enquiries were answered with the -most friendly marks of respect and attention. - -The air, as we drew nearer the mountains, was fresh and indeed cold. -Towards evening we arrived at a farm belonging to a convent of nuns -in Rio de Janeiro, where we were kindly accommodated for the night. -This place is most agreeably situated, and might, under skilful and -industrious management, be rendered a paradise. It has excellent clay, -fine timber, a good fall of water, which forms a beautiful rivulet, -and runs into a navigable river within one hundred yards of the house; -a fine extent of arable land, and a still finer of pasture, which -peculiarly qualifies it for dairy farming. It is distant only one day’s -journey from Porto das Caixas, where there is a navigable communication -with the metropolis. What a scene for an enterprising agriculturist! -At present all is neglected: the house, the out-buildings, and other -conveniences, are in a state of decay, and all the people who manage -the land appear, in common with the animals that feed upon it, to be -half famished. - -The next morning we proceeded eastward, and crossing the stream, which -was at least sixty yards broad and full three feet deep, rode along the -farther margin, which is rather more elevated, and presents a view of -some fine plains, stretching from thence to the base of the mountains. -Journeying in that direction we reached the fine plantation of Captain -Ferreira, who received us very politely, and shewed us every attention. -This place, bounded by the alpine ridge behind it, is the extreme point -to which the river Macacu is navigable. It is six or seven leagues -from the village of that name. The estate maintains about one hundred -negroes, who are chiefly employed in raising sugar, cotton, and coffee; -but to me the situation appeared much better calculated for growing -grain and feeding cattle, as the weather is at times cold, the evenings -are often attended with heavy dews, and owing to the proximity of -the mountains, there are frequent rains, accompanied by thunder and -lightning. Numbers of fine springs burst forth from various parts of -the hills, and form rivulets with falls, which, as here is plenty of -fine timber, afford every means for working machinery. The owner lives -in opulence, and is so humane and liberal to his people, that they -seem to revere him as a father. We were much pleased with the air of -domestic comfort and contented industry, which we observed among them -on visiting their dwellings in the evening. Some of the negro-children -were at play; others of more advanced age were assisting the women to -pick cotton; and the men were scraping and preparing mandioca. Their -cheerfulness was not at all interrupted by our approach, nor did they -betray any uneasy feeling of constraint in the presence of their -superiors. In lieu of candles, which are seldom to be met with but in -the capital, they burn oil, extracted from the bean of the palm, or -from a small species of ground-nut, here called _meni_. - -About noon, on the following day, horses being provided, and a soldier -appointed for our guide, we left the _fazenda_, accompanied by its -hospitable owner, Captain Ferreira, who conducted us half a league on -our way. The river, along which we passed in an easterly direction, -bursts through vast masses of rock with great force, and in some -parts forms considerable falls. The Captain, ere we parted, led me to -a water-course, in which were found pieces of granite covered with -manganese in a botryoidal form. After crossing the river twice, we -arrived at what is called the first register, or searching-house, -distant about two miles from the _fazenda_. This station is guarded -by a corporal and a private soldier, who are charged with the receipt -of various tolls, and are empowered to search passengers, in order to -prevent the smuggling of gold-dust. After shewing my passport, I took -leave of Captain Ferreira, who made me promise to pay him a longer -visit on my return. - -We had been warned of the badness of the roads, and were by no means -agreeably deceived in them, for we were nearly four hours in going the -next six miles. At the close of day, after a laborious and dangerous -passage through abrupt ravines, and along the sides of steep hills, our -guide announced that we were in sight of the second register, where it -was proposed that we should pass the night. On arriving we found it -a most miserable place, inhabited by five or six soldiers under the -command of a serjeant. This good man gave us a hearty welcome, and -with the assistance of his comrades, cooked us a supper of fowls, and -regaled us with whatever else their scanty store afforded. We were not -without music to our repast, for the house is built on the edge of a -roaring torrent, which, bursting through a ravine, has washed away -every thing except some huge masses of rock. A bit of ground, about -ten yards square, is all the garden these poor people have, and even -this is much neglected, for the guards here are so often changed, that -no one thinks of adding to the comforts and conveniences of an abode, -which others are to enjoy. - -At day-break, we found that our mules had strayed into a wood -adjoining, but as the road was stopped, we were under no apprehension -of losing them, for the thickets on each side were impervious. This -occurrence gave me an opportunity of seeing more of these remote -regions; and certainly the imagination of Salvator Rosa himself never -pictured so rude a solitude. On one side rose the great barrier of -mountains, which we had yet to cross, covered to their summits with -trees and underwood, without the smallest trace of cultivation; on -the other lay the broken country, between this ridge and the plain, -presenting the same wild features of sylvan scenery. The miserable -hut at which we lodged, partook of the savage character of the -neighbourhood, and seemed formed for the abode of men cut off from all -intercourse with their fellows. On our return we were provided with a -breakfast of coffee and eggs; as to milk there was no possibility of -procuring any; a cow would have been considered here as an incumbrance, -nor would any one of the six idle soldiers have given himself the -trouble of milking her though they all had been dying of hunger. - -On resuming our journey, we entered on a road still more steep and -rugged than that which we had passed. We were often obliged to dismount -and lead our mules up almost perpendicular passes, and along fearful -declivities. In some places, the thick foliage of the trees, and that -of the underwood, which grew higher than our heads, sheltered us from -the sun, and indeed scarcely admitted the light. Not a bird did we see, -nor the trace of any living thing, except some wild hogs. We passed -several bare granite rocks of a gneiss-like formation. - -In journeying to the next station, we observed nothing worthy of note, -except a small saw-mill, worked by an overshot wheel, of very clumsy -construction. The frame, which contains a single saw of very thick -iron, moves in a perpendicular direction; at every stroke, a boy brings -the timber up, by pulling a cord attached to a crank that moves the -cylinder on which it rests. How readily, thought I, would the meanest -Russian peasant improve this machine! - -We proceeded on our way up an ascent so precipitous, that we were -obliged to walk more than ride; after two hours toiling along the side -of a granite mountain, in which we observed some beds of fine clay, -we reached the summit, from whence we saw the bay of Rio de Janeiro, -the sugar-loaf mountain, and the city itself, to all appearance, -not more than four or five leagues distant from us, though, in -reality, more than twenty. At this elevation, which we may state to -be at four or five thousand feet above the level of the sea, the -air was sharp and keen; the thermometer stood at 58°. Continuing in -a north-easterly direction, we passed two poor solitary farms, and -entered upon a range of scenery tremendously grand, composed of bare -abrupt conical mountains, with immense water-falls in every direction. -At the close of the day, we arrived at a farm-house, called _Fazenda -do Morro Queimado_, the manager of which received us hospitably, -and accommodated us for the night. The weather was so cold, that a -double supply of bedclothes scarcely produced sufficient warmth; in -the morning the thermometer was at 48° Fahrenheit. After the heavy -dew had cleared away, we took a view of the grounds, in company with -the manager; they appeared well-suited for a grazing-farm, but the -temperature of the atmosphere is too severe for growing the common -produce of the country; particularly cotton, coffee, and bananas, which -are frequently blighted. I was informed that some wheat has been grown -here, though the people are quite unacquainted with the European method -of farming. Indian corn, for the feed of hogs, is the staple article. -This plantation is infested by ounces, which, at times, prey upon young -cattle; the manager, who is a great hunter, keeps dogs, though of a -poor race, for the express purpose of destroying them, which is thus -practised:—When the carcass of a worried animal has been found, or -when an ounce has been seen prowling about, the news is soon proclaimed -among the neighbours, two or three of whom take fire-arms loaded with -heavy slugs, and go out with the dogs in quest of the animal, who -generally lurks in some thicket, near the carcass he has killed, and -leaves so strong a scent, that the dogs soon find. When disturbed he -retreats to his den, if he has one, the dogs never attempting to fasten -on him, or even to face him, but, on the contrary, endeavouring to get -out of his way, which is not difficult, as the ounce is heavy and slow -of motion. If he caves, the sport is at an end, and the hunters make up -the entrance; but he more commonly has recourse to a large tree, which -he climbs with great facility; here his fate is generally decided, -for the hunters get near enough to take a steady aim, and seldom fail -to bring him down, one of them reserving his fire to dispatch him, -if required, after he has fallen. It generally happens, that one or -two of the dogs are killed in coming too near, for even in his dying -struggles, a single stroke of his paw proves mortal. The skin is -carried home as a trophy, and the neighbours meet and congratulate each -other on the occasion. - -This farm, in the hands of an experienced and skilful agriculturist, -might be managed so as to produce amazing returns. Its soil is wet, -adapted to the growth, not only of Indian corn, but of wheat, barley, -potatoes, &c. and it is so well irrigated, by numerous mountain -streams, that the pastures are always luxuriant. Here are fine falls of -water, and abundance of excellent timber, so that corn-mills might be -erected at little more expense than what would arise from the purchase -of mill-stones. Connected with the nun’s farm below, this establishment -might be rendered one of the most complete and advantageous in Brazil. - -Leaving _Morro Queimado_ at noon, and descending on the other side of -the ridge of mountains, we passed through an unequal tract, formed of -hills and ravines. Onward the land appeared finer, and the timber of -a superior growth, but there were few cultivated spots, and not many -houses. The first extensive _fazenda_ we reached was that of Manoel -Jose Pereira, a native of the Azores, who managed his agricultural -concerns much better than the other farmers whom we visited. We were -shewn a large field of Indian corn, ready for cutting; the quantity -that had been sown was about eleven _fangas_, or bushels, and the -produce was estimated at fifteen hundred bushels, about one hundred and -fifty for one. This was an ordinary crop; in good years the harvest -yields two hundred for one. The corn, as before stated, is chiefly -consumed in the fattening of pigs; the quantity requisite for this -purpose is six or seven bushels each, and the time, ten or twelve -weeks. The curing of bacon is performed by cutting all the lean from -the flitches, and sprinkling them with a very little salt. This food -has the peculiar effect of giving greater solidity to the fat, which of -itself is not liable to putrefaction. - -Though the owner of this farm has occupied it not more than five years, -and has had only the assistance of his two sons, and six negroes, he -has brought it into a very fair state of cultivation. In his coffee -plantation we observed five thousand trees in full bearing, and the -rest of his grounds were in an equally prosperous condition. His -expenses, indeed, are light, and the only difficulties he has had to -contend with, have been the bad roads, which are now much amended. The -example of this man, it is to be hoped, will stimulate the emulation of -his neighbours; for it has fully shewn the unbounded liberality with -which nature here crowns the labors of the agriculturist. - -On our way hence to the place of our destination, we passed through -some forests of fine full-grown trees; one, which had fallen, I had -the curiosity to measure; it was full seventy-six inches in diameter, -at the thick end, and above twenty-five yards in length. Such a piece -of timber I had never before seen. Within about three miles from -Canta Gallo, we arrived at an excellent farm belonging to the _Senhor -Tenente_, or treasurer of the district, who treated us very hospitably, -and invited us to visit him on our return. Our reception at Canta Gallo -was highly gratifying; the Governor, and all the principal inhabitants, -overjoyed to see Englishmen in these remote parts, treated us with -great cordiality and friendship; a dinner was provided, at which they -testified to us the great respect they entertained for our nation, as -being the great ally of a Prince whom they adored. - - - - -CHAP. IX. - - _Description of Canta Gallo.—Of the Gold-washing of Santa - Rita.—Account of the supposed Silver-Mine._ - - -CANTA GALLO, though so near the seat of government, was not known -until about twenty years ago. It is situated in the midst of a -fine well-wooded country, abounding in springs, and intersected by -narrow valleys and ravines. The bottoms of some of these ravines -formerly contained gold, which was accidentally discovered by some -_grimpeiros_[27] from Minas Geraes, in the course of their searches -about the great river Paraiba, and the Rio Pumba. The richness of these -beds of gold, and the fertility of the circumjacent country, attracted -numbers of adventurers, who placed themselves under the direction of -an able chieftain, named Mão de Luva, on account of his having lost -one hand, and his wearing a stuffed glove in its place. The band soon -amounted to two or three hundred persons, who washed every part in the -neighbourhood worth washing, before they were discovered. Being very -determined men, they lived free of control, and bade defiance to the -laws. It was not until about three years after their first settlement, -that the existing government was apprised of them; when, alarmed at the -report of their numbers, which was doubtless exaggerated, they sent out -spies to discover their rendezvous. This, after much time and great -difficulty, was effected; the spies, in wandering through the solitary -woods and fastnesses in the neighbourhood, were attracted toward the -place, by the crowing of a cock:—hence the name of Canta Gallo, which -was subsequently given to it. They introduced themselves as smugglers, -who wished to belong to the fraternity, and after living there some -time, found means to give information to government, at Rio de Janeiro, -who issued proclamations, offering pardon if the whole body would -surrender. This measure was ineffectual; the _grimpeiros_ were well -provided with fire-arms, and determined to defend themselves as long -as any gold could be found. In a year or two afterwards, the washings -began to fail, and thus the great bond of interest which united them -being loosened, some deserted the place, and the rest became less -vigilant in taking measures for their defence. The government seized -this favorable opportunity for reducing them; a considerable force was -assembled in the vicinity, with orders to make an attack at a certain -fixed day, which was known to be celebrated by the _grimpeiros_ as a -festival in honor of some saint. At the expected time, while they were -engaged at a great banqueting, and too much occupied with their wine -to think of their arms, which had been laid aside, (the flints having -been secretly taken out), about a hundred soldiers rushed in among -them; those who were sober enough flew to their arms, exclaiming, “We -are sold! we are betrayed! treason! treason!” The contest was short; -the soldiers seized the ringleaders, who were either sent to Africa, -or imprisoned for life; of the rest, some were taken prisoners, others -fled, but were pursued for years afterwards, and a few fell in the -attack. - -The Government, having thus become masters of this territory, and -imagining it to be as rich in gold as when the _grimpeiros_ first -settled there, issued many injudicious regulations, oppressed the -natives beyond example, built registers in various parts, to prevent -contraband, and filled the whole neighbourhood with guards. The -numerous settlers, whom the supposed richness of the place afterwards -attracted, soon found that the cream had been skimmed by the smugglers, -and by degrees turned their attention to agriculture, a less precarious -source of subsistence than mining. So little gold is at present found, -that His Highness’s fifth scarcely pays the officers and soldiers -appointed to receive it. There are some situations alike favorable to -mining and farming; with a small capital, a man may here turn both -pursuits to account, if he can bring himself to conform to the customs -of the place. The land is strong and good; its various inequalities -present spots adapted to the growth of almost every description of -produce. In the valleys, and on the sides of the mountains, the soil, -in some parts, consists of strong clay, but more generally of a fine, -rich, vegetable mould. The rock, or solid stratum, which appears at -various depths below it, is granite, composed of feldspar, hornblende, -quartz, mica, and frequently garnets. When found in a decomposing -state, it is denominated _pizarra_. No metallic substances, except -gold and oxides of iron, appear; the former, which is found in the -interjacent bed of _cascalho_, exists only in grains; I examined a -considerable quantity, but could not discover a single particle in a -crystallized state. - -The country appears to be very poorly stocked with cattle; no cows are -kept for milking, nor is any attention here paid to the production of -an article of diet, so essential to the subsistence of a poor family; -a few goats are kept, and the only milk used is that which they yield. -The common food of the inhabitants is as follows:—for breakfast, a -kind of kidney beans, called _feijoens_, boiled, and afterwards mixed -with the flour of Indian corn; for dinner, _feijoens_ boiled with a -little fat pork and some cabbage leaves, and a sort of pudding, made -by pouring the water from the pork on a plate of the _farinha_, which -is eaten with the hand, and much relished; for supper, some poor -vegetables, also boiled up with fat pork. Fowls, which are bred here -in great numbers, are generally cut to pieces and stewed for table. -Wine is rarely used, even among the higher ranks; but here are fruits -in great abundance, particularly bananas and oranges, which form a -considerable part of the general diet. - -Very little sugar is grown here: the principal articles of produce sent -to the capital, are Indian corn, and pulse of all kinds, bacon, fowls, -_jaracandá_, or rose-wood, ipecacuanha, and a small quantity of gold. -In many parts of the neighbourhood is found a tree, the bark of which -has been successfully used as a substitute for the quinquina of Peru. - -In one of the frequent excursions I took in the neighbourhood of Canta -Gallo, previous to my journey to the reputed silver mine, I obtained -some information respecting the half-civilized aborigines of the -district, from a man who employs himself in procuring ipecacuanha, -and is a kind of chief among them. They reside in the woods, in a -most miserable condition; their dwellings, some of which I saw, are -formed of boughs of trees, bent so as to hold a thatch or tiling of -palm-leaves; their beds are made of dry grass. Having little idea of -planting or tillage, they depend for subsistence almost entirely on -their bows and arrows, and on the roots and wild fruits which they -casually find in the woods. The chief above-mentioned brought about -fifty of these Indians to pay me a visit, which was not a little -gratifying to me, as it afforded an opportunity of examining their -features, and of conversing with the few among them who could speak a -little of the Portuguese language. The dress of the men consisted of a -waistcoat and a pair of drawers; that of the women, of a chemise and -petticoat, with a handkerchief tied round the head, after the fashion -of the Portuguese females. They bore the general characteristics of -their race, the copper-colored skin, short and round visage, broad -nose, lank black hair, and regular stature, inclining to be short and -broad set. Being desirous to see a proof of their skill and precision -in shooting, of which I had heard much, I placed an orange at thirty -yards distance, which was pierced by an arrow from every one who drew -his bow at it. I next pointed out a banana-tree, about eight inches in -circumference, at a distance of forty yards; not a single arrow missed -its aim, though they all shot at an elevated range. Interested by these -proofs of their archery, I went with some of them into a wood to see -them shoot at birds; though there were very few, they discovered them -far more quickly than I could; and, cautiously creeping along until -they were within bow-shot, never failed to bring down their game. The -stillness and expedition with which they penetrated the thickets, and -passed through the brushwood, were truly surprising; nor could any -thing have afforded me a more satisfactory idea of their peculiar way -of life. Their bows are made of the tough fibrous wood of the Iriri, -six or seven feet long, and very stout; their arrows are full six feet -long, and near an inch in diameter, pointed with a piece of cane cut -to a feather edge, or with a bone, but of late more frequently with -iron. They are loathsome in their persons, and in their habits but one -remove from the Anthropophagi; a woman was gnawing at a half-roasted -parrot, which was spiked on a stick, with the feathers scarcely burnt -off, and the entrails hanging out[28]. They are not of a shy or morose -character, but have a great aversion to labor, and cannot be brought -to submit to any regular employment. Rarely is an Indian to be found -serving as a domestic, or working for hire, and to this circumstance -may be ascribed the low state of agriculture in the district; for as -the farmers, when they begin the world, have seldom funds sufficient -to purchase negroes at Rio, their operations are for a long time very -confined, and frequently languish for want of hands. What benefits -would result to the state, and how much would the general cause of -humanity be served, if these Indians were civilized and domesticated! A -tribe of idle and unsettled savages would be converted into useful and -productive laborers; the whole face of the district would be improved; -the roads, which at present connect it with the capital, would be -cleared of the thousand inconveniences which now encumber them, and new -ones[29] would be opened for the more expeditious conveyance of its -produce. - -During my stay at Canta Gallo I undertook a journey to the gold-washing -at Santa Rita, distant about five leagues, in a north-east direction. -After passing the uneven country in the immediate neighbourhood of the -village, we arrived at the Rio Negro, a considerable stream formed -by many rivulets, which empties itself into the Paraiba; on crossing -it[30], we entered upon a fine open country, the fertility of which -was evident from the luxuriant growth of the tobacco and other plants: -but it lay in a state of almost total neglect, and the families thinly -scattered upon it appeared in the lowest condition of indolence and -misery. We proceeded a league farther, through a tract entirely -destitute of inhabitants, and arrived about two in the afternoon at -Santa Rita. The proprietor of the works received us very kindly, and -conducted us through them while dinner was preparing. The washing is -in a deep ravine, bounded at one end by an abrupt hill, and open at the -other to the plain. The vegetable earth appeared extremely rich, being -clothed with luxuriant verdure, and the hills on each hand covered with -trees of all sizes. The stratum of _cascalho_, which lies under a bed -of soil four or five feet deep, is very thin and uneven, being no where -more than two feet thick, and in many parts not more than seven or -eight inches. The incumbent soil is removed at great labor and expense, -being dug out and carried away in bowls; and the _cascalho_ is conveyed -with great care to a convenient place for water, where it is washed by -the most expert among the miners, in a way similar to that practised at -the mines of Jaraguá. The proportion of gold produced was moderate: I -was informed that it paid the master the rate of from fourteen pence to -two shillings per day for each negro, which is a large profit, as the -daily subsistence of one costs somewhat less than a penny. - -The sides of the ravine towards the top were bare, and of different -shades of color, being tinged by the water which flows from the -vegetable matter above: in the bottom, on the surface that was yet -unworked, lay some huge, half-rounded, amorphous masses. In the parts -which had been worked, I observed two or three substances of the same -kind, which being too large to be moved, the earth which imbedded -them had been cut away, and they appeared like detached nodules. -On breaking a fragment from one of them, with my hammer, I was much -surprised to find it a calcareous substance, a solid mass composed of -hexagonal crystals, with a small portion of brilliant specular iron -ore. I presented this fragment to the proprietor, informing him that it -was limestone, at which he was truly astonished, having never before -heard of stonelime[31]; nor would he believe me until I proved it by -calcination. The mountains, as I afterwards found, are of the same -substance. - -As I stood observing the heavy operation of cutting and carrying away -the surface to get at the _cascalho_, it occurred to me that much -time and labor might be saved by arching the work with brick; but, on -suggesting the idea, I was informed that the sole or bottom was quite -decomposed, and subject to much water. - -There is reason to suppose that the stratum of limestone, below the -earth in the bottom of the valley, is of very modern formation, and -that, if not too thick to cut through, there might be found, between -it and the granite stratum underneath, a bed of _cascalho_ of prior -formation, much richer in gold than the upper stratum. - -After having investigated these works, we made an excursion of seven -or eight miles, chiefly over a rich plain, abounding with the finest -timber. On the margins of the rivulets which we crossed, I observed -that the moss was incrusted, somewhat like the tuffa at Matlock; and, -on more particular examination, I found a stratum of tuffa in all -the valleys, a few inches below the surface, which, as I conjecture, -must have proceeded from the deposition of calcareous matter by the -overflowings of the streams after heavy rains. The hills, even at -this distance, were composed of the same sparry limestone as at the -gold-washing. It is much to be wished that the value of this material -were duly appreciated at the capital, where the cost of the wood used -in burning shells into lime, exceeds the price at which lime brought -from Santa Rita might be delivered, if proper roads were made for its -conveyance from this district to Porto das Caixas. Such an undertaking -highly deserves the attention of His Highness’s ministers; the benefits -likely to result from it are incalculable, and the expense attending it -would be trifling; for in no part of the globe are roads made so cheap, -or public works of any kind done on such moderate terms, as in Brazil. - -This fine but almost uninhabited district produces spontaneously many -valuable articles of commerce, which run to waste for want of hands to -cultivate and gather them. Here is found that celebrated variety of -the palm-tree, the long, serrated, lancet-formed leaves of which are -composed of innumerable fibres, that rival silk both in fineness and -strength. I bought some fishing-lines made of them for a mere trifle; -and I have no doubt that, if proper means were employed to propagate -the growth of the trees, this valuable substance might be produced in -as great plenty, and at as cheap a rate, as flax is in England. I laid -before His Highness’s ministers, a project for using it as a substitute -for that article in the manufacture of fine cordage, and I shewed by -experiment that it was fully adequate to the purpose. - -We remained two days at Santa Rita and its vicinity, and on the third, -set out on our return, taking the same route by which we came. In some -parts we observed numerous flocks of birds, particularly parrots, and -a few fine wild hens of the wood, and these were the only objects that -engaged our attention. We reached Canta Gallo without having met with -any monstrous serpents, or any other uncommon sights which travellers -often see or fancy in a strange country. - -After a few days’ rest, I set out, accompanied by a guide, to the -supposed silver-mine, notice having previously been sent to the men to -prepare them for my coming. We travelled for about two miles through a -deep valley, and arrived at a rapid stream called Macáco, which runs -between two almost perpendicular mountains of very inconsiderable -height, along one of which the road leads for about a mile and a half. -Having passed this gloomy and dangerous ravine, we proceeded half a -league farther, and halted at a neat farm-house called Machado, with -a portion of good and well-cultivated land around it, which looked -like a garden in the wilderness. The owner, a native of the Azores, -received us very politely, and introduced us to his lady, who, with her -blooming family of daughters, was engaged in needle-work on materials -of their own spinning. The neatness of their dress, and the general -air of propriety and comfort in the apartment where they sat, strongly -reminded me of my country; and when they regaled us with liquor made -from the fruits of their own farm, the image of our domestic scenes in -rural life was complete: I could almost have fancied myself transported -from the rugged wilds of Brazil to the smiling vales of England. - -We left this peaceful abode; and, advancing for six miles through -thickets and forests, and over some plain land, we reached a farm -called St. Antonio, belonging to a widow named Dona Anna, who is -noted throughout the country for making excellent butter and cheese. -The dwelling is of two stories, and neat, but very inconvenient. The -good lady gave me a hearty repast of milk, and we entered into some -conversation respecting her dairy, in which I learned that she knew no -other mode of making butter than that of agitating the cream in a jar -or bottle; and her notions of cheese-making were equally defective, -In looking about the grounds for an hour, while our mules rested, I -noticed an excellent fence, formed by planting a strong thorny shrub, -that seemed of very rapid and luxuriant growth. The few cows that were -grazing in the inclosures appeared to be of a superior breed, but were -not managed with either method or foresight. The principal produce of -the farm is Indian corn, and a little cheese; the latter is only made -occasionally, when there happens to be a sufficient supply of milk for -the purpose. - -We were here shewn various samples of earthy matter, wrapped very -carefully in paper, and preserved with great secrecy, under the names -of platina, silver, &c. They proved to be merely small crystals of -shining iron ore, and pyrites. - -Proceeding a league over a fine country, we reached the Rio Grande, a -stream as large as the Derwent at Derby, which we crossed in a canoe, -our mules swimming after us as usual. We passed several groupes of -Aborigines, and occasionally saw many of their huts and places of -abode. The road now led along the bases of some huge bold mountains -of granite, from whose summits rushed fine cascades of water. The low -ground was interspersed with fragments of the same rock, lying in -heaps in every direction. In many places the grass was so tall that -it reached above the skirts of my saddle, and, the weather being wet, -rendered me very uncomfortable. After a laborious, and latterly a slow -progress, we arrived by sun-set at the house of Father Thomas de Nossa -Senhora da Conceição, who kindly accommodated us for the night. - -The house was new, and neatly built, containing only four rooms, with -boarded floors; a convenience very rarely to be met with in these -parts. It is absolutely encircled with fine streams, abounding with -water-falls, which render the roads to it at all times indifferent, -and in wet weather almost impassable. The father, an intelligent and -industrious man, informed me that he took up that land about four years -since, that he had only one negro, and had no funds wherewith to carry -on his undertaking, except seven or eight pounds _per annum_, which he -gained by his profession as a clergyman; this he expended in hiring -those who chose to work. He shewed me his garden, which was full of -fine coffee-trees, and was kept in the neatest order; his fields were -covered with Indian corn; his live-stock consisted of a good milch -cow, a number of pigs, and one mule. On asking him how he disposed -of his produce, he told me that dealers came and purchased it on the -spot. The whole of the _sesmaria_, or plantation, with the stock upon -it, he valued at four hundred pounds sterling, and said that he had -no doubt he could obtain that price for it. These were clear data for -calculating the profits of farming, when managed with prudence and -industry. Here is a man who, having begun with little or nothing, -finds himself, at the end of four years, worth four hundred pounds; a -snug independency in these parts, and not more than his exertions and -perseverance deserved. Father Thomas lived more comfortably than any -person I had hitherto met with in this district: he was economical, but -not parsimonious; liberal in his sentiments, frank and communicative in -his conversation, and polite in his manners. - -Here I was met by the discoverers of the reputed silver-mine, who came -to conduct me to it. We set out on foot, and, after walking about -six miles over mountains impassable for mules, fording rivulets, and -passing thickets that left me scarcely a single article of dress -untorn, we arrived at the miserable hut of these poor men; a perfect -contrast to the neat dwelling of Father Thomas. Never in my life was -I so exhausted by fatigue; I sat down, unable to go any farther, and -rested about an hour, when, being somewhat recovered, I accompanied -the men, along the edge of a beautiful stream, to the foot of the -mountain, where they shewed me a hole which they had dug, about two -feet deep, and informed me that the sand it contained at the bottom -abounded with grains of silver. Having ordered a quantity to be taken -out, I proceeded to examine the base of the mountain, which I found to -be of granite-like gneiss, with garnets, and small crystals of pyrites. -Near this place the margin of the rivulet contained rounded stones -and sand, but no where was there to be found any metallic substance, -except the one before mentioned. Indeed, the very idea of silver -appearing here in dust or grains, as gold does, would be preposterous, -and contradictory to every principle of nature, as, in such a state, it -would probably have been attacked by the sulphur in the pyrites, so as -to have assumed the form of a sulphuret. - -I returned extremely wearied and much exhausted to Father Thomas’s, -where, after some needful repose, I proceeded to examine the sand and -stones I had collected at the supposed silver-mine, but no particle -of metal was to be found. I then ordered the men to produce their -samples, which I examined both by the blow-pipe and by acids, but -no silver appeared. After equivocating very much, they acknowledged -that they had rubbed and beaten substances to powder, and when they -found specular iron ore they thought it was silver. In one of the -samples there certainly was silver, but it appeared to have been filed -probably from an old buckle or spoon, or rubbed on a stone and mixed -with a pulverized substance. The farce could no longer be carried on: -I charged them, in a most determined manner, with imposture, which, -after some hesitation, they confessed: an officer who was with me -would have secured them, but I restrained him; for, having obtained a -confession, I was unwilling to bring them to punishment, or to render -them more miserable than they already were, by having them sent to the -army. Perhaps that would have been doing them a greater service than -setting them at liberty; for they were too lazy to work, and would, no -doubt, return to their old habits of prowling about, and subsisting -on the credulity of the public by spreading fallacious reports about -mines, precious stones, &c. Such impositions are not uncommon in South -America: I have known instances in which copper-filings, mixed with -earth, and afterwards washed, have been produced as samples, in order -to enhance the value of land, or serve some other sinister purpose. A -passion for mining is fatally prevalent among some of the lower orders -of the people: by deluding them with prospects of becoming speedily -rich, it creates in them a disgust for labor, and entails want and -wretchedness upon them. Even among the few families of this district, -I observed some examples of its effects; those who devoted themselves -wholly to mining were in general badly clothed and worse fed, while -those who attended to agriculture alone were well provided with every -necessary of life. - -Having concluded the affair, I took leave of Father Thomas, and -returned to Canta Gallo, where I prepared my papers for a report -respecting it, as the Conde de Linhares, had desired me. During the -remainder of my stay I collected specimens of the different species of -wood, which the neighbourhood produces. The following is a list of -them: - - _Tapinhoam Canella_—Hard, and excellent for sheathing ships. - - _Venatico_—excellent timber. - - _Cedar_—good and durable. - - _Socupira_, also called _pao ferro_—hard and good. - - _Olio_—very solid, and of a peculiar fragrance. - - _Cubiuna._ - - _Jaracandá_—cabinet-wood, variegated, black and yellow—This is - called rose-wood in England: but the best sorts, as it appears to me, - have not hitherto been imported. - - _Jaracatangá._ - - _Ubatanga._ - - _Palms_—many varieties, among which is the iriri, before described. - Its wood, though small, is unrivalled for strength and elasticity. - - _Garfauna_—the bark of which, as I was informed, affords a yellow dye. - - _Embé_—a creeping plant. The stems are used instead of cords, and - often made into bridles. - - Many species of thorny trees. - -Most of the above-named species of woods are of large growth, and well -calculated for ship-building. It is remarkable that this district -produces none of the dye-wood called Brazil wood. - -Here are innumerable fruit-trees and shrubs which I have omitted to -particularize. Tobacco is cultivated in some parts, and is always -manufactured into roll by uniting the leaves with each other, and -twisting them with a winch. By this operation the juice is expressed, -and after a short exposure to the atmosphere, the color of the tobacco -changes from green to black. - -Of wild animals, ounces are the most common; they are met with of -various colors, some black and brown-red. Tapirs or antas are not -unfrequent, but I saw only the footsteps of some of them. Wild hogs -breed here in great numbers, and also long-bearded monkeys; the -latter, when asleep, snore so loud as to astonish the traveller. The -most formidable reptiles are the corral snake, the surocucu, the -surocucu-tinga, and the jararaca, all said to be mortally venomous, -none of which I ever saw on the journey, except a small one of the -former species. - -The prevailing method of clearing and cultivating the land here, is -precisely similar to that practised in the neighbourhood of S. Paulo. -After the timber and underwood have been cut down and burnt (often -very imperfectly), the negresses dibble the seed; in about six weeks -a slight weeding is performed, and then the ground is let alone till -harvest. The seed-time begins in October and lasts until November; the -maize is ripe in four or five months. The next year they commonly sow -beans on the corn land, which they then let lie, and proceed to clear -new ground. It is not common to molest the land from which they have -had two crops in succession, before eight or ten years have elapsed. - -The sugar-cane and mandioca require from fourteen to eighteen months. -Coffee, planted by shoots, bears fruit in two years, and is in -perfection in five or six years. Cottons and palma Christi, raised from -seed, bear the first year. - -Transplanting is only practised with tobacco; engrafting is little -known and rarely attempted. - -The Indian corn is ground by a horizontal water-wheel, which acquires -great velocity from the rush of water upon it. On the upper end is -fixed the mill-stone, which makes from fifty to sixty revolutions in a -minute. They have likewise a mode of pounding the corn into flour, by a -machine called a Sloth. Near a current of water a large wooden mortar -is placed, the pestle of which is mortised into the end of a lever -twenty-five or thirty feet long, resting upon a fulcrum at five-eights -of its length. The extremity of the shorter arm of this beam is -scooped out, so as to receive a sufficient weight of water to raise -the other end, to which appends the pestle, and to discharge itself -when it has sunk to a given point. The alternate emptying and filling -of this cavity cause the elevation and fall of the pestle, which take -place about four times per minute. This contrivance surpasses all -others in simplicity; and in a place where the waste of water is of no -consequence, it completely answers its purpose. - -[Illustration: HORIZONTAL CORN MILL. - -POUNDING MACHINE.] - -[Illustration: Mandioca first set cuttings. - -Commencing to grow & form Root. - -Nearly full grown & appearance of the Root.] - -Having finished my affairs at Canta Gallo, I set out on my return to -the capital, accompanied for about a league of the road by the worthy -governor, the captain, the treasurer, and almost all the inhabitants. -During a residence of about fifteen days among these excellent men, -my table had been sumptuously supplied without cost, and I had been -treated with a degree of respect far exceeding my expectations or -merits. I took leave of them with regret, wishing most sincerely that -it might be in my power to be of service to them at court, by making -representations in their favor. - -I arrived at Morro Queimado at night, after a journey of thirty-four -miles[32], and on the next day, in good time, reached the house of -my worthy friend Captain Ferreira. Being now less pressed for time, -I took a more leisurely survey of his establishment, particularly of -his sugarwork and distillery, both which are very ill conducted. When -I saw the furnaces for heating the coppers in the latter, I freely -told the Captain, that they could not have been constructed on a worse -plan, but I received for answer, that no better was known. It would, -indeed, be extremely difficult to introduce improvements into this -or any other parts of the distillery, for every thing is left to the -management of the negroes. When I asked any question concerning the -process, the owner professed his ignorance of it, and sent for one of -the African foremen to answer me. With this man I reasoned respecting -the excessive quantity of fuel consumed to no purpose, and proposed a -method for saving it, as well as for correcting the disagreeable taste -of the rum, caused by the empyreuma; which was, to redistil it with an -equal quantity of water, taking care previously to clean out the still; -but he only laughed at me, and signified that his certainly must be the -best method, for he had learned it of an old sugar-maker. Thus it is, -that from the indifference of the owners to their own interest, things -are suffered to go on in the same routine, being left to the direction -of men who shrink from a temporary increase of labor, even when it -promises them a lasting advantage. This aversion to improvement I have -often observed among the inhabitants of Brazil: when, for instance, I -have questioned a brick-maker, a sugar-maker, a soap-boiler, or even -a miner, as to his reasons for conducting his concerns in such an -imperfect manner, I have been almost invariably referred to a negro for -answers to my interrogatories. - -Some parts of this estate are said to contain gold, and at the time -of my visit, Captain Ferreira was negociating for permission from -Government to work them. I presented to him a drawing of a plan for -washing the _cascalho_ in a manner superior to that commonly practised, -and explained to him the use of grinding or stamping those concrete -masses frequently found in it, which generally contain particles of -gold, but being too hard to be crushed by the hand, are thrown aside -among the debris. - -In this _fazenda_, as in most others, the conveniences for storing -the produce, are so very poor and imperfect, that the weevil soon -gets into the corn, and the cotton, coffee, and other produce are -liable to be deteriorated in a thousand ways. The stabling, too, is -bad, and the cattle are deplorably neglected; indeed, the only part -of the live-stock that seems to be tolerably well attended to, is the -swine. In the dwelling-house I observed a total inattention to domestic -comfort; its general appearance confirmed a remark which I had often -heard made, that the owners of estates here, dislike to live upon them, -and considering their residence as only temporary, make shift with poor -accommodations. - -The tract of land belonging to the farm is full two miles square, and -though still susceptible of great improvement, has not been wholly -neglected; the parts already cleared have produced many valuable crops, -and the rest will no doubt, in a few years, be brought to an equally -promising state of cultivation. - -Having staid two days with Captain Ferreira, I set out on the morning -of the third for Porto das Caixas, where I arrived at two o’clock, -after a journey of thirty miles, and was delayed some time, as the -river was crowded with vessels, laden with ship-timber, for the -capital. As soon as the navigation became sufficiently open, I embarked -in a large boat, of about ten tons burthen, and rowing all night to -the mouth of the river, sailed with a land wind, and arrived at Rio -de Janeiro about noon. My first care was to inform His Excellency the -minister of my return, after which I employed a few days in drawing up -my journal for his inspection. He received it in the handsomest manner, -and laid it before his Royal Highness, who was pleased to signify, that -my description of the country, through which I had travelled, merited -his approbation. - -[Illustration: _Published as the Act directs, 1822, by Longman & C.^o -Paternoster Row._] - - - - -CHAP. X. - - _Permission obtained to visit the Diamond Mines.—Account of a - pretended Diamond presented to the Prince Regent.—Journey to Villa - Rica._ - - -AFTER I had thoroughly recovered from the fatigues of my late journey, -I solicited his Royal Highness for permission to go and explore the -diamond mines of Cerro do Frio. This favor had never as yet been -granted to a foreigner, nor had any Portuguese been permitted to visit -the vicinity where the works are situated, except on business relative -to them, and even then under restrictions, which rendered it impossible -to acquire the means of giving an adequate description of them to the -public. Through the kind friendship of the Conde de Linhares, the -permission was granted, and my passports and letters of recommendation -were speedily made out. Lord Strangford was much pleased at my being -so highly favored, and willingly offered his service, and represented -me favorably at court. I obtained admission to the archives, for the -purpose of examining all the manuscript maps, and of copying from any -of them whatever might be necessary to guide me in my route. It may -here be proper to observe, that the most eligible mode of travelling -in the interior of Brazil, especially on such an excursion as I had -undertaken, is to procure orders from the government, and an escort of -soldiers, who have a right, under such orders, to require proper relays -of mules from all persons who reside on or near the road. The Conde -de Linhares intimated to me, that I might select any two soldiers I -thought proper, and while I was deliberating on the choice, a singular -occurrence took place, which was the means of furnishing me with two -men of the corps of miners, who were appointed to attend me, under an -injunction on the part of His Excellency, that their future promotion -would depend entirely on the report which I should give of their -conduct after my return. I am happy to say that their services merited -every commendation. - -The occurrence to which I allude was this:—A free negro of Villa -do Principe, about nine hundred miles distant, had the assurance to -write a letter to the Prince Regent, announcing that he possessed an -amazingly large diamond which he had received from a deceased friend -some years ago, and which he begged he might have the honor to present -to His Royal Highness in person. As the magnitude which this poor -fellow ascribed to his diamond was such as to raise imagination to its -highest pitch, an order was immediately dispatched to the commander -of Villa do Principe, to send him forthwith to Rio de Janeiro; he was -accommodated with a conveyance, and escorted by two soldiers. As he -passed along the road, all who had heard the report hailed him as -already honored with a cross of the order of S. Bento, and as sure -of being rewarded with the pay of a general of brigade. The soldiers -also anticipated great promotion; and all persons envied the fortunate -negro. At length, after a journey which occupied about twenty-eight -days, he arrived at the capital, and was straightway conveyed to the -palace. His happiness was now about to be consummated, in a few moments -the hopes which he had for so many years indulged, would be realized, -and he should be exalted from a low and obscure condition, to a state -of affluence and distinction:—such, no doubt, were the thoughts which -agitated him during the moments of suspence. At length he was admitted -into the presence; he threw himself at the Prince’s feet, and delivered -his wonderful gem. His Highness was astonished at its magnitude; a -pause ensued; the attendants waited to hear the Prince’s opinion, and -what he said they seconded. A round diamond, nearly a pound in weight, -filled them all with wonder; some ready calculators reckoned the -millions it was worth; others found it difficult to numerate the sum -at which it would be valued, but the general opinion of His Highness’s -servants was, that the treasury was many millions of crowns the richer. -The noise which this occurrence created among the higher circles, may -be easily conceived; the general topic of remark and wonder, was -the negro’s offering. It was shewn to the ministers, among whom an -apprehension, and even a doubt, was expressed, that a substance so -large and round might not prove a real diamond; they, however, sent it -to the treasury under a guard, and it was lodged in the deposit of the -jewel-room. - -On the next day, the Conde de Linhares sent for me, and related all the -circumstances which had come to his knowledge respecting this famous -jewel, adding, in a low tone of voice, that he had his doubts about -its proving a genuine diamond. His Excellency directed me to attend -at his office in a few hours, when letters from himself and the other -ministers to the Treasury should be given me[33], for permission to see -this invaluable gem, in order to determine what it really was. Readily -accepting a charge of so interesting a nature, I prepared myself, and -attended at the hour appointed, when I received the letters, which I -presented at the treasury to an officer in waiting, I was led through -several apartments, in which much business seemed to be transacting, -to the grand chamber, where presided the treasurer, attended by his -secretaries. Having my letters in his hand, he entered into some -conversation with me relative to the subject; I was then shewn through -other grand apartments hung with scarlet and gold, and ornamented with -figures as large as life, representing justice holding the balance. In -the inner room, to which we were conducted, there were several strong -chests with three locks each, the keys of which were kept by three -different officers, who were all required to be present at the opening. -One of these chests being unlocked, an elegant little cabinet was taken -out, from which the treasurer took the gem, and in great form presented -it to me. Its value sunk at the first sight, for before I touched it, -I was convinced that it was a rounded piece of crystal. It was above -two inches in diameter. On examining it, I told the governor it was -not a diamond; and to convince him I took a diamond of five or six -carats, and with it cut a very deep nick in the stone. This was proof -positive; a certificate was accordingly made out, stating, that it was -an inferior substance of little or no value, which I signed. - -Other boxes were now unlocked, from one of which they showed me two -large slabs of diamond, each a full inch on the superficies, and about -the eighth of an inch in thickness, of a very bad brown color. When -found, they formed one entire piece, which, being amorphous, was not -known to be a diamond, until the administrator or chief of the working -party, after keeping it by him many days, had recourse to the old -experiment of placing it on a hard stone and striking it with a hammer. -The result of this experiment is, that if the substance resist the -blow, or, separate in laminæ, it must be a diamond; the latter was the -case in the present instance, and the man having thus made two diamonds -from one, transmitted them to the intendant. - -The river Abaité, from whence these pieces came, has produced one of -an octahedral form, which weighs seven-eights of an ounce Troy, and is -perhaps the largest diamond in the world. It was found about twelve -years ago by three men who were under sentence of banishment for high -crimes; but on presenting this valuable gem to the then Viceroy, they -were pardoned and rewarded. It is now in the private possession of the -Prince Regent. - -I was afterwards favored with a sight of the remaining diamonds in the -Treasury; they appeared to be in quantity about four or five thousand -carats. The largest did not generally exceed eight carats, except -one of a fine octahedral form, full seventeen. Among the few colored -diamonds, one of the smallest was of a beautiful pink, one of a fine -blue, and several were of a green tinge; the yellow were the most -common and least esteemed. - -Having now finished my business, I took my leave of the treasurer, with -thanks for his polite attention, and on my return home wrote a letter -to the Conde de Linhares, stating the result of my visit. It was no -agreeable task to a stranger to have to announce that a substance which -had been considered as an inestimable addition to the treasures of -the state, was in reality, though singular in its appearance, of very -trifling value, and this too in a letter which was to be laid before -the Prince. His Highness, however, was prepared for the intelligence, -and was too noble-minded to manifest any chagrin at the disappointment. -The poor negro who had presented it was of course deeply afflicted by -this unwelcome news; instead of being accompanied home by an escort, -he had to find his way thither as he could, and would, no doubt, -have to encounter the ridicule and contempt of those who had of late -congratulated him on his good fortune. - -When I had nearly completed my preparations for the journey, Mr. -Goodall, a most respectable merchant, expressed a desire to accompany -me to Villa Rica, which I readily acceded to, as he was a most -agreeable companion. Lord Strangford having procured him passports from -the ministers, he was enabled to join me without delay. On the 17th -of August, 1809, we set out on a journey which no Englishman had ever -before undertaken, nor had any ever yet been permitted to pass the -barrier of alpine mountains that stretch along the coast. - -Having embarked in a large market-boat with our retinue, which -consisted of the two soldiers before mentioned, and my servant, a most -trusty negro-boy, we made sail at mid-day with a sea-breeze, and ran -down the bay about six leagues. We then passed the island of Governador -and various others, one of which was the beautiful Cocoa-nut island. -Proceeding along the strait, formed by it and another of similar -extent, we crossed a fine open bay, and arrived at the mouth of the -Moremim, a picturesque river which presents in its serpentine course -a great variety of beautiful scenery. It was now sun-set; the weather -was mild and serene, and we paused awhile to enjoy one of the finest -rural prospects which we had ever seen in Brazil—a fine romantic -fore-ground, enriched by the vivid foliage of the woods on the banks of -the stream, and contrasted by the bold outline of the mountains in the -distance, among which we noticed that singular chain of perpendicular -rocks, called the Organpipe mountains, from their resemblance in form -and position to the front of the instrument alluded to. Having advanced -two leagues up the river, we arrived at a village on its margin, -called Porto da Estrella, a place of great stir and bustle, on account -of the hourly arrival of numerous droves of mules laden with produce -from the interior. Here are some poor dwellings, and a number of large -storehouses for the reception of the produce. The muleteers, being -provided with bedding and cooking utensils, never leave their cattle, -so that good inns are to them unnecessary. We were shewn into the best -in the place, which was as dirty and inconvenient as can possibly be -imagined. I shall forbear to detail the discomforts of the night, and -merely observe that they were such as to make us early stirrers in -the morning. Our soldiers procured us mules, but owing to the great -bustle of loading and unloading, we were not in travelling order until -ten o’clock. We now proceeded about three leagues along the low land, -having the range of mountains on our left, and passing the village -of Piedade entered on a beautiful plain at their base. We stopped at -a house at which the Prince Regent had remained three nights for the -benefit of the air; but not being able to procure refreshment there, we -passed on and began our ascent along an excellent paved road, extending -five miles on a very steep elevation along the sides and over the -ridges of the mountains. Having rested awhile at the half-way-house, -which we had been near an hour in gaining, we toiled on, relieving -ourselves at times by turning to take a view of Rio de Janeiro, and the -bay, which from this lofty eminence appeared to great advantage. With -some difficulty we reached the summit, which, as I suppose, is four -thousand feet above the level of the sea; the atmosphere was at least -ten degrees colder than on the plain. - -Our next halting place was a small village called Corgo Seco, situated -in a most rugged and uneven district, with not half an acre of level -ground in any part of its vicinity. Having taken some refreshment here, -we proceeded to Belmonte, a beautiful spot, situated by the edge of a -rapid stream, which washes the base of an immense mountain of granite -on the left. We journeyed along this stream until we reached a station -called Padre Correa, from the name of its owner. It consists of a -house and chapel, with a handsome area in front. The Father maintains -a large establishment of negroes, many of whom are employed in beating -out mules’ shoes from the cool Swedish iron, after they have been -forged into form. For these articles there is a considerable demand, -as the unwrought material pays no duty on this side the river Paraiba, -while on the other it is taxed full 100 _per cent_. which is also the -case with salt. The great consumption of these necessary articles has -probably induced Government to lay these heavy duties upon them, but -certainly every principle of good policy furnishes an argument against -the measure. Padre Correa received us very hospitably, afforded us an -asylum for the night, and assisted us in regulating our baggage by -supplying a pair of cane panniers for one of the mules, which proved -very serviceable. Before sun-rise we were awakened by the clatter -of hammers in the forges; the weather was dewy, and so cold that my -thermometer was down at 46 degrees. We passed some time in viewing the -garden, which was in tolerable order, and contained some fine peach -trees in blossom. Our host informed us, that he had a good plantation -a few miles distant, but his chief concern was the selling of corn and -shoes for the use of the mules. - -Leaving this station we skirted the Piabunha, a river abounding in -falls, which flows into the Paraiba. Among the hills and dales which -we traversed, we at times observed farm-houses and plantations; but -the road, farther on, was quite confined by continual wood-scenery. -After proceeding about twenty miles we reached Cebolla, a tolerable -establishment, consisting of a house of two stories, a small chapel, -and a sugar-engine, in an unfinished state, situated in the bottom of -a valley. The owner, Captain Jose Antonio Barbosa, was a Portuguese -of the old school; he seemed much vexed that His Royal Highness had -permitted strangers to travel the country, and treated us with a -constrained civility, which shewed us that he thought we were come -about no good. His conversation ran continually against the operations -of Government in laying taxes upon rum and other commodities; and -though he tasted the sweets of office, being part-renter of the -lucrative ferry of Paraiba, which post he obtained through the -interest of a very worthy gentleman in Rio de Janeiro, yet he had -all the acerbity of a disappointed place-hunter. His self-interested -and narrow-minded views were but too plainly directed to one object, -monopoly; the mere mention of the Prince Regent’s liberality in -permitting strangers to reside in Brazil appeared to torture him, -and in short, so much of the snarler did he display while discussing -this topic, that no character could have more forcibly reminded us of -the dog in the manger. It is, however, but fair to add, that while -indulging in severe reflections on strangers, he did not forget the -duties of hospitality; before we went to rest, he invited us to partake -of a family supper, consisting of a boiled duck smothered in rice, and -a stewed pullet, to which sat down eight people, including ourselves. -Having thanked our host for his kindness, we retired to the apartments -allotted to us. My bed was so uneasy that I was obliged to sit up -during most of the night, having no alternative, for as the clay floor -was neither boarded nor paved, I could not venture to throw the bed -clothes upon it, and sleep there. Never did mortal hail day-break with -greater satisfaction; but my agreeable feelings were soon damped by one -of those little vexatious accidents which in some states of mind are -more hard to bear than real misfortunes. I had placed my thermometer in -a _wind-door_ or air-hole (for the aperture was not glazed); a stupid -fellow, in fastening the bridle of a mule to one of the bars, threw -down the instrument and broke it. Luckily I had another, therefore the -loss was not so grievous. - -Our soldiers having, with their wonted alacrity, provided mules, we -set out at an early hour, and entered upon a much more level road than -that of the preceding day. We passed along several valleys, the surface -of which presented clay and decomposed granite, in some places more -ferruginous than in others. There are numerous sheds all the way for -the refreshment of travellers and their cattle. This day’s journey -being only sixteen miles, we soon completed it, arriving about noon -at the ferry of Paraibuna. This river, though as wide as the Thames at -Westminster, is unnavigable, by reason of the large rocks which impede -its course. The ferry-boat arriving, we went into it with all our -mules, and were conveyed with oars and setting poles to the other side, -where we found a Register for the examination of passengers, their -passports, and property. The place is guarded by a few old soldiers, -under the command of a lieutenant, who, though in ill health, shewed us -every attention. Our soldiers got us a dinner cooked at a _venda_[34], -kept by a young man originally from Oporto; we took tea and supped with -the commandant, who assigned to us an apartment in the Register. He was -very civil, and seemed highly pleased to see us, frequently exclaiming, -“Os Inglezes são grande gente,” (the English are a great nation). We -were gratified by this and other national compliments which he paid us, -and not less so by the respect which every one who came to visit us -testified for our country, as being in alliance with a Prince to whom -they were enthusiastically devoted. - -The Register is a substantial edifice of wood, built on posts to -preserve it from the overflows of the river, which frequently inundate -the sandy flat on which it stands. It contains a few rooms, which serve -as barracks for the guards, and has a handsome gallery fronting the -ferry. The station is low, and in summer is said to be very hot and -unhealthy; a circumstance which, joined to the indolence and poverty of -the inhabitants, may sufficiently account for the general appearance of -debility observable among them. The little employment they have arises -chiefly from the passengers who frequent this great thoroughfare, and -from the numerous troops of mules which are continually arriving on -their way to, as well as from, the interior. The barges of the ferry -are as fine vessels as any I ever saw used for the purpose; and indeed -they ought to be, for a considerable toll is paid, not only for every -mule, or other beast of burden, but for every person crossing the -river. The annual amount collected yields, no doubt, a handsome profit -to the renters; but it might be considerably augmented if a regular -road were opened to Canta Gallo, which is only eighteen leagues distant. - -Being informed that our next day’s journey would be an arduous one, on -account of the hilly district through which we should have to pass, -we retired to rest betimes, and were stirring at an early hour. We -mounted fresh mules, and proceeded along a good road through a rugged -and thinly peopled district; in the course of five leagues, we passed -over seven very high granite mountains, and eight smaller ones, and at -length reached the ferry of the Paraiba, a river considerably larger -than the Paraibuna. At the Register belonging to it, which is more -extensive and better guarded than the former, all goods are examined -and weighed, paying duty according to their weight, whatever be their -kind, quality, or value. This regulation bears very unequally upon -different articles; salt, for instance, pays nearly _cent. per cent._ -iron and lead about the same; while woollens, cottons, and other light -goods do not, on an average, exceed eight or ten _per cent._ - -The commandant of the Register offered us every assistance, and was -kind enough to provide us a fresh mule for our baggage. The short time -we staid here did not allow much leisure for observation; and, indeed, -there was little of novelty to observe. The situation of the Register -is pleasant; the country around is well wooded and fertile, though -mountainous. The river is almost destitute of fish. - -We proceeded about a league and a half farther, through thick woods, -and arrived at a place named Rosina de Negra, where we halted for the -night. Our next day’s journey presented the same varieties of hill -and ravine as those we had already passed. In one part of the road we -observed a kind of barracks, consisting of an _estalagem_ and some -_ranchos_ or huts, where an officer and about twenty horse-soldiers -are stationed; they patrole the road, and are authorised to stop -travellers, and make the strictest search of those whom they suspect -of having gold-dust or diamonds concealed. Proceeding two leagues, we -arrived at the Register of Mathias Barboza, situated in the midst of an -almost impervious wood. It was built about sixty or seventy years ago, -by the gentleman whose name it bears, and who was an ancestor of the -noble family of Sousa. - -This Register is a large oblong building, with two great doors at each -end, through which all travellers, with their mules, are required to -pass. On entering, they stop, and deliver their passports to a soldier -for examination by the commander, who, if he judges that a correct -account is given of the property, suffers them to proceed: but if -any grounds of suspicion occur, the mules are unloaded, and all the -contents of their cargoes are examined with the strictest scrutiny. In -these examinations it not unfrequently happens that a negro has been -suspected of swallowing a diamond; in which case, he is shut up in a -bare room until such time as the truth can be proved. The command of -this station is entrusted to a major. The inner part of the building -consists of apartments for the officers, _ranchos_ for the soldiers, -cells for the confinement of suspected persons, and stabling for the -mules. In the yard there are numerous posts, to which the cattle are -tied while loading or unloading. There is also a _venda_ for the -accommodation of travellers. - -Leaving this place, we proceeded through an extensive tract of wood, -in which we occasionally observed a few deer, but no birds, except now -and then a green parrot or a wood-pecker. The road, as far as the eye -could reach, was bounded on each hand by close continuous thickets, and -rarely enlivened by traces of habitation. Those persons who live by the -way-side are commonly of the lowest order, who settle there with the -view of selling refreshments to travellers, and corn for the mules; -they are in general an idle, gossipping race: the more respectable -classes reside at a distance from the public road. - -We arrived about four in the evening at a farm-house called Madeiras, -belonging to Captain José Pinto de Sousa. The situation is cold and -salubrious, the vicinity well-watered, and abounding in fine tracts of -arable and pasture land, but deplorably neglected. The owner seemed to -prefer ease, with inconvenience, to labor, with comfort; and, satisfied -with the spontaneous bounty of nature, cared little about improving it -by industry. The house itself was miserably out of repair: its walls, -which consisted of lattice-work plastered with clay, were full of holes -and crevices, and its roof was in a very crazy and shattered condition. -We fared but poorly, and passed a very indifferent night; often -reflecting on the apathy and listless indolence of the people: who, -thought we, in a cold climate would live in a dwelling full of cracks -and air-holes, when a few dashes of mud might render it comparatively -comfortable! - -From this place, which is an hundred miles from Porto da Estrella, -we continued our route next day over a chain of mountains, among -which we encountered other falls of the Paraiba nearer its source, -and, traversing a tract of close woodland, arrived at a station -called the Fazenda do Juiz de Fora. Here we procured fresh mules, and -proceeded for a considerable distance on the ascent, when we met with -two planters from Minas Novas, who were going to Rio de Janeiro with -forty-six mules loaded with cotton, packed in raw hides, each beast -carrying two packages. They had been nearly three months on the road. -We availed ourselves of their kind offers to carry intelligence to our -friends in the capital, and gave them letters for that purpose. - -The remainder of our day’s journey afforded few incidents worth -notice. We observed several pines of a singular species, which yielded -abundance of resin. In one part of the road I shot a most beautiful -bird, the name of which I could not learn, but was informed that it -flew about much in the night. In another part, we noticed a beast of -prey, which was crossing the road before us, and fled at our approach. -I killed a small water-snake with two fins near its vent. - -We arrived towards evening at the _fazenda_ of Antonio Ferreira, -formerly a good house, but now almost in ruins. The owner was not -at home; but his old negro-servants provided as handsomely for us as -we could have expected them to do if he had been present. We made a -tolerable supper of stewed fowls, with the addition of a fine wild -turkey, which I had killed in the vicinity. I may here observe, that a -traveller in this country should neglect no opportunity of providing -for himself with his gun, as he is never certain of palatable fare at -the places where he alights. - -The surface of the country is in general good strong clay; all the -rocks are of gneiss and granite, in the composition of which hornblende -predominates. We this day passed the site of the first gold-washing, -which is very small, and has been many years abandoned. The rivulets -have a great deal of oxide of iron in small grains mixed with the -sand in their eddies. In some places the granite is in a decomposing -state, and there are large nodules of what the Germans call grünstein, -which appear not unlike basalt. The air in these elevated districts is -fresh and cool, except from two to four o’clock in the afternoon, when -I found it rather hot. In the evening, while amusing ourselves with -shooting, we observed a man in a friar’s habit, with a box bearing a -picture of the Virgin, fastened to his waist by a belt. His face was -overgrown with hair, and his whole appearance exceedingly wild and -uncouth. On inquiry, we were informed that this extraordinary figure -was a hermit; and that he had embraced this austere life by way of -doing penance for some great crime. - -Having pursued our diversion while day-light lasted, we returned to -the house, where, for the first time since our departure from Rio, we -partook of a comfortable meal, and regaled ourselves with a bottle -of excellent Madeira, which my worthy companion by good fortune had -brought with him. - -We set out next day by sun-rise, and proceeded some miles along a -tolerable road. The vallies as we advanced were wider, and more easy -of cultivation, but the mountains were excessively steep. On even -ground our general pace was three or four miles an hour, but on the -acclivities we proceeded slowly, and were obliged to observe every step -of our mules, and to balance ourselves accordingly. This action of the -body produces no perceptible consequences for the first few days, but -afterwards it begins to torture the loins with a species of lumbago. - -After a journey of twenty-eight miles, which occupied nine hours, we -found ourselves at six in the evening at a small farm-house called -Fazenda de Dôna Clara e Dôna Maria. These two good ladies honored us -with a more polite reception than we had hitherto experienced on the -journey. It being the festival of St. Bartholomew, a great holiday -among the Brazilians, they had prepared a more sumptuous dinner -than usual, of which they kindly invited us to partake. We were -the more sensible of this act of hospitality, because it evidently -proceeded from sincere good-will; and, like the widow’s mite, derived -additional merit from the smallness of the store which supplied the -means of performing it. Their establishment seemed barely provided -with necessaries; and the house in which they lived was ill built and -scantily furnished. We could not but smile at the earnestness with -which one of these worthy ladies complained of the hardness of the -times; they paid, she observed, a moidore every three years in taxes. -How happy, thought we, would our English spinsters of slender incomes -deem themselves in being so lightly assessed! - -We passed the evening tolerably, having provided ourselves with -candles, which we found very necessary both here and in other places -on the road; for the rooms in general are lighted only by a glimmering -lamp, which rather augments than diminishes their melancholy gloom. - -In the morning we were informed that the mules which had been provided -for us over-night were taken away from the stable. This so enraged -our soldier, that he immediately rode in quest of them, brought them -back, and pressed others for our service. We here saw the convenience -of travelling under official orders: had we not been so provided, we -might have been exposed to a most vexatious delay. These military -requisitions of cattle may be considered by the owner as a grievance; -but he generally indemnifies himself by high charges to other -travellers, and by impositions in the way of trade. - -Being now within the province of Minas Geraes, (a country famed at -Rio de Janeiro for its excellent cheese), I expected to see some -improvement in the condition of the country,—some establishment -worthy of being called a farm,—some dwelling, constructed not merely -for shelter but for comfort. I hoped to remark among the inhabitants -that air of health and animation which springs from the invigorating -occupations and cheering pursuits of husbandry; but no such pleasing -change was perceptible: the same want of exertion prevailed here as -in other parts of the country; the people seemed to act as if the -tenure by which they held their lands was about to be abolished; all -around them had the appearance of make-shift; their old houses, fast -hastening to decay, bore no marks of repair about them; wherever a bit -of garden-ground was inclosed, it appeared overrun with weeds; where -coffee-trees, planted in former years, still existed, the present -occupiers were too indolent to gather the fruit; no inclosures were -made for pasturage; a few goats supplied the little milk that was -consumed; and cows’-milk was rarely to be procured. On observing these -deplorable consequences of the apathy of the inhabitants, I could not -but reflect on the advantages which might accrue from the introduction -of the English system of agriculture among them. The example of a -single farm, conducted on that system, might go far towards rousing -the people from their slothful state; and, when they once felt their -faculties awakened, they would be ashamed to lounge about as they now -do, under an old great coat, for days together, burthens to themselves, -and objects of contempt to all strangers who see them. - -The next place we visited, after quitting the residence of these old -ladies, offered every requisite for making the experiment above alluded -to. It was a _fazenda_ called Mantiqueira, situated in the largest -plain we had hitherto traversed, consisting of rich land watered by -numerous streams. The establishment was in a fit state to begin with: -the house was falling to ruin, and the grounds about it were overrun -with weeds and brushwood. What more desirable situation, exclaimed -I to my companion, could an English farmer select! Here cattle of -every description are cheap; cows and oxen at two years old may be -purchased at 30s. or 40s. per head; excellent horses from 60s. to -£8. each; and pigs, poultry, and other live-stock, at a price too -trifling to mention. Here is land which, under the influence of this -genial climate, is capable of yielding two hundred-fold; here is wood -in abundance for every purpose; excellent clay for making bricks; and -water at command. Yet all these advantages are lost to the present -occupiers, who consider them too cheap to be valuable; and, perpetually -hankering after the precious minerals, seem to think that the only -standard for estimating the gifts of nature, is the difficulty of -obtaining them. - -Having passed the hamlet of St. Sebastian, we arrived late in the -evening at Borda do Campo, a village consisting of about twenty houses, -the best of which is that of Captain Rodrigo de Lima, who, on learning -our situation, kindly took us in for the night. While supper was -preparing, we had some conversation with him respecting the agriculture -and produce of the neighbourhood, in the course of which he paid much -attention to our observations, and promised next day to shew us the -system he pursued. At the repast, which was speedily announced, he -introduced us to his wife and daughter, and a lady who was then on a -visit to them. This was an unexpected act of politeness, and one which -had never yet been exercised towards us by any master of a family in -the whole course of our journey. The few females we occasionally saw -at any former place generally secluded themselves on our arrival and -during our stay; and, when they came near us by chance, they commonly -ran away in as much apparent alarm as if they had been accustomed to -be frightened at the name of an Englishman. The ladies appeared in -very neat dresses of English manufacture, with a profusion of gold -chains about their necks, which are always worn on receiving or paying -visits. Their conversation was gay and enlivening; they were very -inquisitive respecting the costume of English women, and seemed quite -astonished at hearing that they wore caps, it being never the custom -among the Brazilian females to cover their heads until advanced in -years. They ornament their hair with combs, frequently of gold, and -very richly wrought. Wine was introduced, of which the ladies could -not be prevailed on to partake: they gave our healths by putting the -glass to their lips. After supper, the table was covered with delicious -sweetmeats; when, being desirous of paying the lady of the house a -compliment, I spoke highly of their excellence, and presumed that the -fruits were preserved under her immediate direction; but she assured -me to the contrary, and observed that her negress did all that sort of -domestic work. I perceived, or imagined, that she was rather offended -at my remark, and therefore apologized by saying, that it was not -uncommon for the ladies in England to interest themselves personally in -the concerns of housewifery. The remainder of the evening passed off -very agreeably. - -On looking out of my chamber-window the following morning, I was -surprised to see two small and very neat inclosures, in one of which -flax was growing, and in the other wheat. The latter, which apparently -had been sown about seven weeks, was very poor and unpromising: the -ground had too much water, and seemed of late to have been flooded. Our -host regaled us with a breakfast of stewed fowl, excellent coffee and -milk, and a dish of _feijones_, with mandioca and buttered toast; after -which he conducted us to his inclosures. - -The flax was very healthful and strong: he told us he cut[35] it three -or four times a year, and that it was dressed, spun, and woven in his -own house. He grew but little, having occasion for no more than what -answered his domestic purposes. The wheat, he told us, was blighted. He -shewed us a sample of last year’s growth, which was very poor, coarse, -and foul. The mills are of similar construction to those used at Canta -Gallo, but I did not observe a pair of stones fit for the grinding of -wheat. - -I now expressed a wish to see his dairy, which the good gentleman -immediately complied with. Instead of an apartment, such as I expected -to find, fitted up and kept in order for that sole purpose, I was shewn -into a kind of dirty store-room, the smell of which was intolerable. -The present, I was told, was not the time for making cheese, as -the cows gave milk only in the rainy season. I begged to see the -implements used in the process; and, on examining them, found, to my -utter astonishment, that neither the vats nor cloths had been washed -since they were last used; and the milk-pails, &c. were in the same -condition. This sufficiently accounted for the offensive smell which I -had perceived on entering the place. When I asked to see the utensil -used for making butter, an apology was made, by stating that it was -not in the way: they had observed my disgust at the other vessels, and -probably thought that this was equally unfit to be inspected. I did all -in my power to inform our worthy host of the manner in which English -dairies were conducted, and gave him several directions, which he wrote -down, but seemed quite indifferent about adopting them. On enquiry, I -found that no provision was made for the cows; there were no houses -erected for milking, and that operation was frequently neglected, and -at all times badly performed. - -The premises bore traces of the industry and taste of the former -occupants: there was a mud-wall round them, encompassing about an acre -of ground, which, when perfect, must have given the whole a retired and -comfortable appearance; but it was now partly broken down in ruins. -The steps leading to the front door of the dwelling were of the lapis -ollaris, or pot-stone, of which substance there is a stratum in the -vicinity. - -Our cattle being ready, we mounted about eleven in the forenoon, -returning thanks to our host, and offering to pay for the accommodation -we had met with; but the only compensation he required, was a promise, -on our part, to pass a day or two with him on our return. The ladies, -who had not appeared at breakfast, came out upon the gallery, and very -pleasingly and politely wished us a good journey. - -Resuming our route, we passed several small farms, and observed -that the blight had destroyed all their bananas, and withered their -coffee-trees. My thermometer at the time was not lower than 52°, but -the damage had been done some days before by a sharp southerly wind. -In some parts of the road there were very small inclosures of flax -and rye. The country now appeared more open, and the wood-scenery -lay at a greater distance. We rode by the side of a barren mountain, -which was covered to an extent of three miles with quartz, and -produced little or no herbage, except a species of wiry or windle -grass, which was much parched by the sun. We descended a declivity -tremendously steep, and full a mile in length, at the bottom of which -we crossed the Rio das Mortes, here a small rivulet. On its further -bank is an _estalagem_, or inn, called Registro Velho, (Old Register) -having been originally built as a searching-office, to prevent the -smuggling of gold. Proceeding hence, the eye is again relieved from -confined wood-scenery by the prospect of a grand amphitheatre of -mountains, which are bounded by others of amazing magnitude, covered -with forests. On the side of one hill, which we skirted obliquely, I -observed several crystallized masses, which, on examination, proved -to be clusters of cubes of ferruginous quartz of a dark-brown color. -We shortly afterwards arrived at a village called Barbacena, situated -on a commanding eminence, in a most fertile country, and apparently -containing about two hundred dwelling-houses. While we stopped to take -some refreshment, numbers of the inhabitants came to look at us, having -never before seen Englishmen, and being on the rack of curiosity to -know the objects of our journey. At this place two great roads from the -mining country unite, and form the main road to Rio de Janeiro. That -to the westward leads from S. João d’El Rey, Sabará, and Cuiabá; the -other from Villa Rica, Mariana, Villa do Principe, Tejuco, Minas Novas, -&c. Being a sort of half-way station to the capital, and the last open -place on the road, it is much frequented by people from different parts -of the interior, and has a considerable traffic in various articles, -particularly baizes, cotton goods, salt, and iron. Many of the shops -were well stocked with English manufactures. The place is governed by -an _Ouvidor_, or justice of the peace, and a military officer. In its -neighbourhood there is a quarry of soft, whitish granite, from which -mill-stones are made; but, from the specimens I saw of it, the material -must be very unfit for such a purpose. - -We arrived, about four in the evening, at a poor place called -Resequinha, the owner of which made every provision for us which his -scanty means afforded. He dispatched a negro to gather grass for -the mules, which is here incredibly scarce; and killed us a fowl -or two for dinner. The time previous to that meal hung heavy on our -hands; there were no birds to afford us an hour’s shooting, and we -had no source of diversion, except that which the lively fancy and -inexhaustible humor of my companion afforded. We dined heartily about -seven o’clock on stewed fowls and mandioca, which fully supplied the -want of bread. That article is so extremely scarce in these parts, -that even the populous village of Barbacena, though situated in the -richest corn-district of the province, could furnish us only one rusk. -Being overcome with weariness, we prepared for rest. One of our beds -was placed on the table, the other on a dried hide stretched upon the -clay floor. These were miserable accommodations; but sleep knows little -distinction between the hovel and the palace, and a man thoroughly -disposed may enjoy it as soundly in one as in the other. So it was -with my companion; he was in a profound slumber within five minutes -after he had lain down, in despite of the rough materials of which his -pallet was composed. Mine prevented me from sleeping, and compelled me -to sit up during most of the night; it consisted, as well as his, of -the leaves of Indian corn crammed into a bag, with the mouth tied up; -but the careless negro who performed that operation had neglected to -pick out the core or pith from which the grain is rubbed, so that there -was no finding an easy posture upon it. I sat musing on the absolute -wretchedness of every thing around; a miserable lamp hung over our -heads and threw a dismal glimmer about the apartment; the floor was -uneven and broken into holes; the table, on which we had dined, -consisted of one large plank of a quality not discoverable without the -assistance of a scraper, as it had never been cleaned since it was -made; there was not a chair or any thing resembling a seat, except an -antique bench with a back to it, fixed at a distance on one side of the -table, so that some of the guests had to take their repast standing. -The very beasts in the out-houses were better provided for than the -master, if we might judge from the healthy condition of those we saw, -whose slothful apathy could be matched only with that of the swine they -fed. - -We left Resequinha an hour after day-break, and entered on some clayey -ground which caused our mules to come down frequently, as they were -unshod. The day being Sunday we found some difficulty in procuring -fresh mules, as they were all engaged in taking their masters to mass. -After proceeding about a league and a half we arrived at the _fazenda_ -do Gama, consisting of a good mansion and some out-buildings. The -house, which is the residence of a major, stands on an eminence in -a fine open country, beautifully interspersed with clumps of trees -and small patches of wood, but wholly uncultivated and destitute of -inclosures. The land appeared much burnt up, and ill supplied with -water, but the vallies, we were told, abounded in numerous streams -and rivulets. Having stopped at the door, we were saluted by the voice -of a fine motherly-looking lady, apparently about forty, who invited -us to alight, and we readily obeyed, having occasion to change our -baggage-mule. Two young ladies, the daughters of the one whom we had -first seen, came on the gallery to welcome us. As the morning was -cool, they were covered with purple mantles of baize, which left only -a part of the face exposed, but shewed us sufficient to prove that the -females of this province, here called _mineras_, are above mediocrity -in personal charms. This opinion was confirmed on entering the house, -where these ladies appeared to much greater advantage; they were in -the bloom of health, rather tall in stature, and in their air and -gestures extremely graceful. We had just entered into conversation -when in came our soldier to announce that the baggage-mule was loaded, -and that the day was so far spent as barely to allow time enough to -reach the next station before night. This honest fellow for the first -time on our journey was the bearer of unwelcome news. I asked him why -he did not bring us to this mansion last night, instead of halting -at the miserable dog-hole of Resequinha. “Ah, Sir,” replied he, “the -mules could travel no further.” “Then you might have told us of this -delightful place, and we would have walked hither had it been double -the distance.” How much more merrily we should have passed the -evening, thought I, on observing two fine guitars hung up in a closet -that was accidentally opened. The mother, who now came in, gave us an -invitation to stop, regretting that her husband, being confined by -illness to his bed, was unable to pay his respects to us in person. We -expressed our disappointment at not being able to avail ourselves of -this invitation, and again related how ill we had passed the night at -Resequinha. “Yes,” observed one of the daughters very facetiously, “men -alone make very insipid society; you would have been much better here, -would not you?” Our soldier again came to say that the baggage-mule -was out of sight, and that we should be in danger of losing our way. -The mule, said I, may surely for once fall lame to accommodate us, or -some lucky misfortune may occur to give us a pretext for prolonging our -stay. We were at length obliged to yield to the pressing remonstrances -of our soldier, and took leave of the good lady and her amiable -daughters, promising to visit them on our return. We pursued our -journey with reluctance, over a dreary tract of country, passing at -intervals through small woods, where we shot a few wood-peckers, here -called _carpinteros_, a name sufficiently characteristic of their -peculiar habits. The incessant hacking which they make with their beaks -may be heard at a considerable distance. No incident worth mentioning -occurred in this day’s journey, which terminated at Bandeira de -Coelho, where we arrived at sun-set. A more dirty and slovenly place, -in a finer situation, we never visited. It was with great difficulty -that my negro-boy procured us a pot of any sort to dress us a fowl and -some beans for supper. The kitchen was a mere dirt-hole, blackened with -soot and smoke above and all around, and covered with mud and filth -below: the cooking utensil was a pot placed on three stones and heated -by a fire of green wood. The owner was very assiduous in helping us, -and heartily desired us to make free. He was reputed to be a man of -considerable property, which he had accumulated by selling corn for the -troops of mules which frequently stop here, and are generally better -accommodated than his biped guests. We procured something in the form -of a supper, and passed the night under the same sort of shed as that -which sheltered our cattle, and on bedding very little superior in -quality to theirs. - -The experience of this night completed the catalogue of inconveniences -to which we had been exposed since the commencement of our journey. I -would advise every traveller who pursues the same route, to provide -himself with a hammock and blankets, a stock of tea, sugar, candles, -liquors, soap, and salt, two kettles, and a drinking-horn, (for in -few places will he meet with any of these articles), as well as an -umbrella, which can by no means be dispensed with. This equipage, -(together with proper instruments), is necessary for a person who -travels to make observations on the country, and will require two -baggage-mules to carry it. - -We set out next morning at six, without breakfast, not being able to -procure either coffee or milk; and proceeding six miles, through a fine -open country, arrived at a large village called Louza, containing full -two thousand inhabitants. It is well built, but as I was informed, has -much declined from its former consequence, which it owed principally -to the rich mines in its vicinity, now almost exhausted. We procured -a tolerable breakfast of coffee and eggs at a _vend_; and, while we -partook of it, were much amused by the numbers of inhabitants, who -crowded the door in eager curiosity to see us, asking a variety of -questions of a political nature, and forming endless conjectures -respecting the object of our journey. - -Leaving this village about eleven o’clock, we proceeded along a range -of mountains composed of argillaceous schistus, and passed a hill -covered with micaceous iron ore: in one part of it there was a break -that showed marks of stratification, which appeared vertical, or it -was probably a strong vein of ferruginous matter, which traversed the -mountain. I was not a little surprised to find that the road, for above -half a mile, was covered with rich oxide of iron. - -We passed a place called Alto de Virginia, where, as well as in the -vicinity, to a considerable extent, there are gold-washings, which -bear the general name of Lavras de Virginia. I examined the heaps of -debris, but found in them nothing but rounded quartz and ferruginous -matter. Journeying half a league further, we came to the gold-washings -of S. Antonio do Ouro Branco, where hillocks of the same materials -abounded; and we soon afterwards entered the poor and almost deserted -village of the same name, containing about five hundred souls. We had -an interview with the commandant, but could obtain nothing in the way -of refreshment; indeed the few people we saw were so needy, that far -from being able to supply our wants, they seemed to crave all we had to -satisfy their own, and eyed us as if they expected we had brought them -something. Glad to get away from this wretched place, we continued our -journey through a succession of fine vallies, and arrived about four -o’clock at the foot of a tremendous mountain, overhung with clouds. -The ascent was so steep that, judging it in vain to attempt to ride, I -dismounted; our soldier, who was a lighter man than myself, exchanged -mules with me, and up we went in a zig-zag direction for half an hour, -when we found ourselves immersed in a thick cloud, which for some time -hindered us from seeing our way. We were at length able to proceed, and -in many parts had to mount up ledges nearly two feet perpendicular, -which we performed without alighting, as our saddles were secured from -slipping off behind by a strong strap passing round the mule’s neck. -It is considered very unsafe to dismount in these ascents, for the -animals go much less steady when led than when ridden. At seven o’clock -we reached the summit, where, though night was setting in, we found it -necessary to rest half an hour, and then proceeded a league in the dark -without our baggage-mule, which, being unable to keep pace with us, had -been left in charge of two men and the negro-boy. We were under little -apprehension for the safety of our property, though, as we afterwards -learnt, the poor animal was down above twenty times in the course of -the ascent. About eight o’clock we reached Alto do Morro, our baggage -arriving about an hour after. Here we halted for the night in one of -the best inns we had hitherto seen, the hostess of which soon provided -us with a comfortable supper, of which we partook very heartily, and -passed an agreeable evening. The good order and propriety which reigned -in this inn confirmed an observation we had often made, that of all -houses on the road those under the direction of females were managed -with most ability, and certainly afforded the best accommodations. I -may add, that there prevailed in them that evident disposition and wish -to oblige which generally makes up for any deficiency, and by appealing -to a stranger’s liberality makes him satisfied with whatever is set -before him. - -The land, through which we this day passed, appeared much burnt up, -being in general very bare of vegetable soil, and having few trees to -defend it against the heat of the sun. In the mountains we observed -several slips or breaks, which presented abrupt and singular masses -lying in all directions like confused heaps of architectural ruins, -disclosing veins of soft talc, and some _cascalho_, poor in gold. The -stratum was argillaceous schistus, very ferruginous, and friable. -At the bottom of these slips, which appeared to be caused by the -disrupture of one part of the mountain from the other (probably through -the infiltration of water), there were small streams, which in rainy -weather swell into torrents, and burst through their channels with -great velocity. - -The next day, it being our intention to reach Villa Rica before -night, we set out at an early hour, notwithstanding the cold cloudy -weather and the heavy dew which prevailed. We passed through a bare -and uneven tract of country, presenting similar characteristics to -those above described. Near a place called Capão, I rode down a hill -covered with rich iron ore in such profusion, that tons might have -been gathered from the surface. Proceeding a short distance farther, -we arrived at a house, the owner of which, we afterwards understood, -possessed a topaz-mine in the neighbourhood. The mention of a _mine_ -of topazes excited my curiosity, as it gave me the idea of a vein -worked under-ground, and containing those substances in the matrix as -originally formed. On expressing to the owner my desire to see the -works, he kindly undertook to accompany me to the spot. After walking -about half a mile up the mountain just mentioned, I was shown two -breaks or slips, in which my guide informed me were the topaz-mines. We -entered one of them, which was in extent little short of two acres; the -argillaceous schistus, which formed the upper stratum, appeared in a -variety of stages, the greater part migrating into micaceous schistus. -In one part I observed two negroes poking in the little soft veins, -which the slips disclosed, with a piece of rusty iron, probably part -of an old hoop; and on enquiring what they were about, I was informed -they were the _miners_, searching for topazes. I took one of their -instruments, and on using it as they did, found these veins to contain -a very minute micaceous substance approaching to earthy talc, also some -quartz, and large crystals of specular iron ore. I had the good fortune -to find two or three topazes, which, as they had only one pyramid each, -and appeared fractured, I judged to be out of their original place. It -had hitherto been my opinion, that all the topazes which I had seen -at Rio de Janeiro, or elsewhere, and which were of similar form to -these, had been broken from the matrix by the miners; I now, therefore, -fully expected to meet with some having double pyramids, but, to my -great disappointment, all that I found were entirely detached. From -a great quantity (at least a cart-load) of inferior topazes, which -were afterwards shown to me in the owner’s house, (and any number of -which I might have taken away), I could not select one with a double -pyramid. They informed me that sometimes, but very rarely, topazes had -been found attached to quartz, but even in these instances the quartz -was fractured and out of its original place[36]. The topazes which were -shewn me, were very imperfect, and full of flaws. The negroes employed -in these works were superintended by two Creolians, who received what -they found. - -After I had collected a variety of specimens, we returned to our mules, -continued our journey over bleak and sterile mountains, through roads -covered with dust, and arrived about three o’clock in sight of Villa -Rica. Though the town stands on an eminence rather steep and lofty, the -approach to it is not noble or striking, neither is there any thing in -a near view of it, which, to the eye of a traveller, corresponds with -the grandeur of its name. The environs, unlike those of opulent towns -in general, exhibited few signs of cultivation; not an acre of good -pasture was any where to be seen, nor an inclosure of any kind. We -arrived a little after four, and alighted at one of the first houses -to the left, on entering the town; it had been recommended to us as -one of the best inns, but we found, that, in point of cleanliness and -accommodation, report greatly overrated it. The owner, being a priest, -entrusted the entire management to a mulatto, who acted as if he was -seldom under the eye of his master. Having ordered dinner, we walked -into the town for about a mile; the streets were very irregular, and -so badly paved as to give us no favorable idea of the opulence of the -inhabitants. As night was coming on, and we felt fatigued, we postponed -delivering our letters until next day, and returned to our inn. Our -dinner, which was served up in as slovenly a manner as we had ever -witnessed, even in the poorest _rancho_ on the road, consisted of some -stewed beef and a fowl. The bread was tolerable, but dear. Being little -inclined to sit up after our repast, we retired early to rest; our -rooms, though destitute of almost every appropriate convenience, were -better than those to which we had of late been accustomed. - -Notwithstanding the fatigue of the journey, which heartily disposed me -to sleep, my mind was for some time occupied in reflecting on the place -at which we had now arrived, and which had long been the theme of our -wonder and conjecture. Villa Rica—the rich village! The capital of -the province of Minas Geraes, and the seat of its government; a place -which had for many years been reputed the richest in Brazil, as to it -was brought all the gold found in the vast district around. Impatient -to see some vestiges of that splendor which its name implies, I slept -but little, and rose at an early hour. We, with difficulty, obtained -our breakfast, consisting of coffee and eggs, with bread and English -butter, after which we dressed and went to deliver our letters. - -Our arrival being announced, we were directed to present ourselves at -the audience-chambers, which form part of a large edifice, containing -also the post-office and other public rooms for the transaction of -Government business. We were introduced to the General of the Forces, -and to Dr. Lucas Antonio Monteiro de Barras, Judge of the Supreme -Court; the latter held the principal authority in the absence of the -Viceroy, who was gone to Rio de Janeiro, another from Goyazes being -expected shortly to succeed him. We were honored with a most handsome -reception, and various houses were put in our choice, with a kind -invitation to make use of any of them during our stay, but we preferred -taking lodgings in the centre of the town, within three minutes’ walk -of the Palace, in Rua Dereita, the very Bond Street of Villa Rica. - -After our interview with the Judge, we devoted some hours to a -perambulation of the town, and returned much fatigued to dine at our -inn. In the evening I paid a visit to the vicar, who gave me a hearty -welcome, and in the usual style of Portuguese compliment, told me his -house was mine. The saying, had it been verified, would have put me -in possession of one of the best mansions in Villa Rica. At tea the -worthy pastor introduced me to several officers, among whom was the -late governor of the Diamond district, who gave me much information -concerning it, and shewed me an aqua-marina, which had been found in -one of the washings. It was a perfect hexagonal prism, full seven -inches in length, and three quarters of an inch in diameter, clear -and free from flaws. After some hours of very agreeable conversation, -the party broke up, and it being dark, I was conducted to my inn by -a servant of the vicar’s, with his lantern. At the corners of the -streets, along which we passed, there were groups of the lower order -of people offering their prayers; in a niche above them was a figure -of the Virgin, with tapers burning before it. A voice in a low solemn -tone uttered the vespers, the responses were made by the multitude. I -took off my hat as I passed, knowing that such a token of reverence is -always expected. - -The next day was occupied chiefly in removing our equipage to our new -lodgings in Rua Dereita; to this service our soldiers were particularly -attentive, and left us nothing to do which they could do for us. On -the day following we were honored with visits from the judge, the -general, the vicar, and many of the principal inhabitants, all of whom -testified their respect for us in the most polite manner. Many of -them afterwards sent me presents of fine sugar, coffee, sweetmeats, -cheese, and some good bread. One gentleman, to give me a proof of the -richness of the soil and salubrity of the climate, sent me a cabbage, -full fourteen inches in diameter, when stripped of its outside leaves; -a finer vegetable never was produced. - -When our leisure permitted, we took excursions to view the town and -its vicinity, sometimes on horseback and sometimes on foot, generally -going and returning in a different direction. It is situated on the -side of a large mountain, connected with others forming an immense -chain, of which it is one of the highest. Most of the streets range, -in steps, as it were, from the base to the summit, and are crossed by -others which lead up the acclivity. It is most admirably supplied with -water, which is conducted into almost every house in a most convenient -and pleasant manner. In the streets are many fountains, which, though -not to be compared with those of Italy in architectural taste, are well -constructed. One cistern in particular contained water which tasted -strongly of sulphate of iron; the natives consider it serviceable in -the cure of cutaneous diseases, and frequently bathe in it. The town is -divided into two parishes, and contains a population of about twenty -thousand inhabitants, of whom there are more whites than blacks. The -climate is delightful, and perhaps equal to that of Naples. Though the -latitude of the place is only 20° south, yet owing to its elevated -site, the temperature of the air is generally moderate. The thermometer -never exceeds 82° in the shade and rarely below 48°, but its usual -range is from 64° to 80° in summer, and from 48° to 70° in winter. The -greatest heats prevail in January. Owing to its great elevation various -changes from heat to cold prevail in the same day, and there are -frequent showers of rain. Thunder-storms are common, but by no means -violent. The sun is sometimes clouded by dews and mist so dense as not -to subside until the forenoon is far advanced. - -The gardens here are laid out with great taste, and from the -peculiarity of their construction present a curious spectacle. As there -is scarcely a piece of level ground, even ten yards square, on the -whole side of the mountain, the defect has been remedied by cutting -spaces one above another at regular distances, and supporting them by -low walls, the top of one being on a level with the base of that next -above it. An easy flight of steps leads from one level to the other. -These terraces seemed to me to be the very kingdom of Flora, for never -did I before see such a profusion of delicate flowers. Here were also -excellent vegetables of every kind, such as artichokes, asparagus, -spinach, cabbage, kidney-beans, and potatoes. There are many indigenous -fruits which might be much improved by a better system of horticulture. -The peach appears to be the only exotic fruit which has been hitherto -introduced; it florishes amazingly. I have frequently seen the -branches of the trees so loaded as to require perpendicular support. - -The town is of considerable extent, but by no means so well peopled as -when the mines were rich. Few of the inhabitants have any employment -except the shopkeepers, who are indeed a numerous class. English -woollens were by no means dear, superfine cloth being at 30s. to 35s. -per yard; coatings, &c. nearly as cheap as in England; common cotton -prints at 1s. 6d. to 2s. per yard; hats, handkerchiefs, kerseymeres, -and Manchester piece goods in great plenty. There seemed, indeed, to -be a glut of English merchandise and produce of all sorts, except -earthenware, hams, porter, and butter, which were dear on account of -the risk of carriage. Common Figueira wine was 3s. 6d. the bottle. The -shops that sold the produce of the country were few in number and very -indifferent. There were a great many tailors, shoe-makers, tin-workers, -and venders of hardware, some smiths, and no inconsiderable number of -saddlers. In a country where every one is a horseman, this trade must, -one would imagine, take the lead of most others. The saddles that were -shewn me here, were of a much superior make to those which I saw in Rio -de Janeiro. I was surprised to find no workers in gold in a place so -renowned for the production of that precious metal, but I was informed -that the trade was prohibited by law, to prevent the gold from being -worked before it was permuted. - -The market of Villa Rica was but ill supplied, notwithstanding the -fertility of the district around it. Pulse and vegetables for the table -were scarce, even grass was an article in great demand[37], and milk -was as dear as it is in London. Poultry sold at from 3s. 6d. to 4s. -6d. per couple. Beef of a tolerable kind, but by no means good, might -be had at 1-1/2d. per pound. Pork was very fine: mutton was utterly -unknown. Tallow was exceedingly dear, and candles were more than double -the price at which they sell in this country. - -Though our arrival in the town excited some surprise, as we were the -first of our nation who had visited it, yet the people did not regard -us entirely as strangers, many of them having seen Englishmen in their -frequent intercourse with Rio de Janeiro. My worthy companion had -letters to some of the principal shopkeepers, which we took an early -opportunity of delivering. When we spoke to them of the richness of -the country, and of the quantity of gold with which it was reputed to -abound, they seemed glad of the opportunity of telling us, that they -believed the gold was all sent to England, adding that their capital -ought now to be termed Villa Pobre, instead of Villa Rica. Indeed we -were surprised to observe the comparative poverty which prevailed -among them. Of above two thousand habitations, which the town -contained, a considerable proportion was untenanted; and the rents of -the rest were continually lowering. Houses were to be purchased at one -half their real value; for instance, a house built a few years ago at -one thousand pounds cost, would not now sell for more than five hundred -pounds. - -The mountain on which the town stands, appeared to me in length from -eight to nine miles, in every part narrow and almost insulated, being -surrounded by deep ravines. In riding over it in various directions, -I observed it to be composed of argillaceous schistus in almost every -gradation, migrating from the compact blue slate into micaceous -schistus. In some parts it lies in regular strata, in others it appears -in confused masses. The slate is sometimes, but not very generally, -used for paving, roofing, and other similar purposes. In some parts -I noticed a few slender, confused, and irregular quartzose veins of -little consequence, a large proportion of ferruginous accumulations -and stalactitic aggregates, together with pyrites, and a considerable -quantity of quartz pebbles of all sizes. That side on which the town -is built presents many small hills, which form a number of gulleys in -narrow ravines. Numerous streamlets flow down from the springs in the -mountain in various channels, and in rainy weather swell into cascades; -they form a rivulet at its base called Rio do Carmo, which in its -course from hence is joined by many others, and changes its name first -into that of Rio S. Jose, and then into Rio Doce. Of the latter I shall -have occasion in the sequel to speak more at large. - - - - -CHAP. XI. - - _Origin and present State of Villa Rica.—Account of the Mint.—Visit - to the City of Mariana.—Excursion to the Fazendas of Barro and - Castro, belonging to His Excellency the Conde de Linhares._ - - -THE history of an establishment, which, twenty years after its -foundation, was reputed the richest place on the globe, was an object -of considerable interest with me, and I made many enquiries respecting -it from some of the best informed men on the spot. It appears that -the first discovery of this once rich mountain was effected by the -enterprising spirit of the Paulistas, who, of all the colonists in -Brazil, retained the largest share of that ardent and indefatigable -zeal for discovery, which characterized the Lusitanians of former days. -They penetrated from their capital into these regions, braving every -hardship, and encountering every difficulty which a savage country, -infested by still more savage inhabitants, opposed to them. They cut -their way through impervious woods, carrying their provisions with -them, and occasionally cultivating small patches of land to afford -them food to retreat to, in case of necessity, as well as to keep up -a communication with their city S. Paulo. Every inch of ground was -disputed by the barbarous Indians, here called Buticudas, who were -constantly either attacking them openly or lying in ambush, and but -too frequently succeeded in surprising some of them, or their negroes, -whom they immediately sacrificed to their horrible appetite for human -flesh. They believed the negroes to be the great monkeys of the wood. -The bones of the unfortunate sufferers were frequently found exposed, -shocking testimonies of the barbarity of their murderers, whom the -Paulistas, roused to revenge, invariably shot, wherever they met them. -These examples of vengeance answered their desired end; the Indians, -terrified as well by the noise as by the fatal effect of fire-arms, -fled with precipitation, believing that the white men commanded -lightning and thunder. - -It does not appear that in exploring this territory they received any -assistance whatever from the Aborigines: they followed the course of -rivers, occasionally finding gold, of which they skimmed the surface, -and continued to proceed until they arrived at the mountain which -is our present subject. Its riches arrested their course; they -immediately erected temporary houses and began their operations. The -principal men of the party that first settled here, were Antonio Dias, -Bartholomo Rocinho, Antonio Ferreira (_filho_) and Garcia Ruis. It -appears that they took the most direct way to the place, for the roads -they then opened are the same which are still used. The fame of their -success soon reached the city of S. Paulo; fresh adventurers arrived -in great numbers, bringing with them all the negroes they had means -to purchase. Other adventurers went from S. Paulo to Rio de Janeiro -to procure more negroes, their own city being drained; and thus the -news of the lately discovered gold mountain being made known in the -Brazilian capital, men of all descriptions went in crowds to this land -of promise by the way of S. Paulo, which was the only route then known. -The first settlers might have prevented the exposure of their good -fortune, had they been able to moderate their joy, and consented to act -in concert; but as gold was in such great abundance, every individual -appropriated a lot of ground, and thus became a capitalist. Each strove -which should make the most of his treasure in the shortest time, and -thus there was a continual demand for more negroes, more iron, &c. and, -in the general eagerness to obtain them, the secret, which all were -interested in keeping, was disclosed. The Paulistas independent in -spirit, and proud of their wealth, were desirous of giving laws to the -new-comers; but the latter determining to oppose this measure, formed -themselves into a party under the guidance of Manuel Nunes Vianna, an -adventurer of some consequence, who strenuously asserted their claim -to equal rights and advantages. Disputes arose on both sides, and were -at length aggravated into hostilities, which proved unfavorable to the -Paulistas, the greater part of whom fled to a considerable station of -their own, and there awaited reinforcements. Vianna and his followers, -without loss of time, went in pursuit of their foes, whom they found on -a plain near the site of St. João d’El Rey. The two parties met on the -border of a river, and a sanguinary battle took place, which ended in -the defeat of the Paulistas, who afterwards made the best terms they -could. The slain were buried on the margin of the river, which, from -that circumstance, took the name of Rio das Mortes. - -The Paulistas, bent on revenge, but weakened by defeat, appealed to the -sovereign, King Pedro, denouncing Vianna and his followers as rebels, -who were attempting to take the district to themselves, and set up an -independent government. The King’s ministers apprised of the state of -affairs, and learning by report the immense riches of the country, -immediately sent a chief, with a competent body of troops, to take the -advantage of the strife between the two parties; which in a country -tenable by a few men, on account of its numerous strong-holds, was a -most fortunate circumstance. The name of this chief was Albuquerque; -a man of enterprise and perseverance, in all respects qualified for -the service on which he was sent. His appearance at first occasioned -much confusion and discontent among both parties; and though he was not -openly opposed, yet he was in continual alarm. The Paulistas now saw -that the riches which they in conjunction with their rivals might have -retained, were about to be seized by a third party, which would reduce -them both to subordination. Disturbances prevailed for some time, but -reinforcements continually arriving from Government, tranquillity was -at length perfectly established; and in the year 1711, a regular town -began to be formed; a government-house, a mint, and a depôt for arms -were built. A code of laws was enacted for the regulation of the mines; -all gold-dust found was ordered to be delivered to officers appointed -for that purpose; a fifth in weight was taken for the King, and the -remaining four parts were purified, melted into ingots at the expense -of Government, then assayed, marked according to their value, and -delivered to the owners, with a certificate to render them current. For -the greater convenience of trade, gold-dust was likewise permitted to -circulate for small payments. Notwithstanding these strict regulations, -a considerable quantity of the precious metal in its original state -found its way to Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, and other ports, clandestinely, -without paying the royal fifth, until Government, apprised of this -illicit traffic, established Registers in various parts for the -examination of all passengers, and stationed soldiers to patrole the -roads. By these means, gold in immense quantities was seized and -confiscated; the persons on whom any was found, forfeited all their -property, and, unless they had friends of great influence, were sent as -convicts to Africa for life. The greatest disgrace was attached to the -name of smuggler; and such was the rigor of the law against offenders -of this description, that every person quitting the district was -obliged to take a certificate stating whither he was going, and what he -carried with him. This regulation is still in force, and is rigorously -observed. - -Villa Rica soon enjoyed a considerable trade with Rio de Janeiro; the -returns were negroes, iron, woollens, salt, provisions of various -kinds, and wine, all which at that time bore amazingly high profits. - -About the year 1713, when Dr. Bras da Silva was appointed governor, -the quantity of gold produced was so considerable that the royal fifth -amounted to above half a million sterling annually. The mountain -became pierced like a honey-comb, as the miners worked every soft -part they could find, and penetrated as far as they could, conveying -the _cascalho_ which they dug out to a convenient place for washing. -In rainy weather the torrents of water running down the sides of -the mountain, carried away much earthy matter containing delicate -particles of gold, which settled in the ground near its base. When -the waters abated, this rich deposit gave employment to numbers of -the poorer sort of people, who took it away and washed it at their -convenience. - -Antonio Dias, the person already mentioned as one of the leaders of -the Paulistas, who discovered the place, having become extremely -rich, built a fine church, and dying soon after, bequeathed to it -considerable funds. It bears his name. Five or six others were begun -and soon finished, as neither wood nor stone was wanting; and the -inhabitants were all ready to contribute a share of their property, -and to employ their negroes in furtherance of these pious works. A law -highly creditable to the wisdom of the Portuguese government was now -enacted, to prohibit friars from entering the territories of the mines. -What treasures were thus saved to the state, and what a number of -persons were thus continued in useful labor, who would else have become -burthensome to the community! - -The town now underwent many improvements; its streets were more -regularly built, and some parts of the side of the mountain were -levelled, to afford more convenient room for the construction of -houses, and the laying out of gardens. Reservoirs were formed, from -which water was distributed by means of conduits to all parts, and -public fountains were erected in the most convenient and central -situations. The mint and smelting-houses were enlarged, and rendered -more commodious for the transaction of business. About this period the -inhabitants amounted to twelve thousand or upwards; those who possessed -mines, were either the first settlers or their descendants, and as -the best part of the district was occupied, the new adventurers who -continued to arrive from time to time, were obliged to enter into the -service of the existing owners until they had learned their methods -of working, after which they generally went in search of fresh mines, -proceeding along the water-courses and ravines, where they sometimes -discovered new sources of wealth. Between the years 1730 and 1750, the -mines were in the height of their prosperity; the King’s fifth, during -some years of that period, is said to have amounted to at least a -million sterling annually. - -The mines which produced this immense wealth, at length became -gradually less abundant; and, as the precious metal disappeared, -numbers of the miners retired, some to the mother-country, loaded with -riches, which tempted fresh adventurers, and many to Rio de Janeiro and -other sea-ports, where they employed their large capitals in commerce. - -Villa Rica, at the present day, scarcely retains a shadow of its former -splendor. Its inhabitants, with the exception of the shopkeepers, -are void of employment; they totally neglect the fine country around -them, which, by proper cultivation, would amply compensate for the -loss of the wealth which their ancestors drew from its bosom. Their -education, their habits, their hereditary prejudices, alike unfit -them for active life; perpetually indulging in visionary prospects -of sudden wealth, they fancy themselves exempted from that universal -law of nature which ordains that man shall live by the sweat of his -brow. In contemplating the fortunes accumulated by their predecessors, -they overlook the industry and perseverance which obtained them, and -entirely lose sight of the change of circumstances which renders those -qualities now doubly necessary. The successors of men who rise to -opulence from small beginnings, seldom follow the example set before -them, even when trained to it; how then should a Creolian, reared in -idleness and ignorance, feel any thing of the benefits of industry! His -negroes constitute his principal property, and them he manages so ill, -that the profits of their labor hardly defray the expenses of their -maintenance: in the regular course of nature they become old and unable -to work, yet he continues in the same listless and slothful way, or -sinks into a state of absolute inactivity, not knowing what to do from -morning to night. This deplorable degeneracy is almost the universal -characteristic of the descendants of the original settlers; every trade -is occupied either by mulattoes or negroes, both of which classes seem -superior in intellect to their masters, because they make a better use -of it. - -During my stay here, I paid frequent visits to the mint, and was -liberally permitted by the officers to see every process performed -there. In the smelting-house were eight or ten small blast-furnaces, in -form much resembling blacksmiths’ hearths. The fuel used is charcoal. -When a quantity of gold-dust is brought, (no matter whether large or -small), say, for instance, six ounces, it is first permuted, and a -fifth taken for the Prince; the rest is put in a Hessian crucible, -about three inches in diameter, which is immediately placed in the -furnace. A quantity of corrosive sublimate is then put to it, which, -on being heated, exhales very strong fumes; the scoriæ, if any be -formed, are taken off with a pair of tongs, and more sublimate is added -if required. Ebullition sometimes occurs, in which case the crucible -is covered with a bit of common tile. As soon as the mercury is -evaporated, the gold is poured into an ingot-mould, previously rubbed -with animal fat; it is afterwards turned out into a tub of water. The -ingot generally, in some part or other, has mercury attached to it, -(which it seizes immediately), and the part of the gold thus affected -assumes the appearance of lead[38]. To remove this, they hold it in -a strong fire with a pair of tongs until the mercury is evaporated. -It is afterwards sent to the assay-master, who first compares it on -the touchstone with gold bars of different alloys, ascertained and -marked, and then assays it. The two methods being found to agree, the -assay-master stamps upon the ingot its degree of fineness, (called -_toque_), also its weight, its number, the name of the place, and the -year. It is then registered in a book kept for that purpose, and a copy -of the entry is made out on a slip of printed paper, in which the ingot -is wrapped, and delivered to the owner for circulation. The operation -of melting a given quantity seldom occupies more than ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour; that of cupelling about double the time: but I have -seen men deliver their gold-dust, and receive it in a circulating form -in less than an hour; so that little delay takes place, and, as there -are six furnaces, the bringers of gold have seldom to wait for their -turn. The pale color and low quality of various bars of gold are always -imputed to the silver, platina, or other metal contained in them. I -have seen some as low as sixteen carats, and others as fine as 23-1/2 -carats, which is within half a carat of what is denominated pure gold. -Twenty-two is the standard, and gold exceeding that receives a premium -according to its fineness. - -Considerable quantities of arsenical pyrites, said to be cobalt, were -brought to me: I examined some specimens with the blow-pipe, but found -no vestige of that metal, as the substance in no stage imparted a -blue color to borax or glass. Iron pyrites is found about three miles -from the town, where there is a very strong vein of it in quartz. -Antimony was brought to me from some distance, and also a few bits -of copper much oxidated, which were said to have been found in the -washings at a place called Caldeiroens, but this I had great reason -to doubt. Not a few impositions respecting the discovery of copper -were attempted upon me. One man brought a rounded piece of jasper, -about an ounce in weight, and with it half an ounce of copper, of the -form and about the size of a duck-shot, which he told me had been -produced by a smelting stone similar to the jasper then before me. I -with much difficulty persuaded him that the person who had performed -the operation for him had dropped a copper coin into the crucible. -I was astonished to find that many persons, even gentlemen of some -consequence, had a notion that almost every red-colored stone in the -pavement of the streets was copper. One fellow had circulated a report -that he possessed several pieces rich in that metal; but, on being -sent for, and questioned closely, he stated that he had lost them in -removing to another house. It is not surprising that tales of this kind -should gain easy credit among persons stimulated by avarice and blinded -by ignorance, and that the artful men who invent and propagate them, -should be tempted by success to repeat their impositions, and corrupt -others by their example. The rich iron ores with which the district -abounds, and of which I saw many specimens, might furnish employment -much more profitable than washing for gold, or following other idle and -chimerical speculations. - -During the first few days of my residence here, my soldiers procured -me a quantity of the finest porcelain clay I have ever seen; that used -in the manufactory at Sèvres, near Paris, is inferior to it. This clay -is found at the foot of a mountain of argillaceous schistus, called S. -Antonio, near Congonhas do Campo, in a vein accompanied with quartz and -specular iron ore. - -A week after my arrival here, I was invited to go to a pottery about -three miles distant. Crossing a bridge over the Rio do Carmo, at the -foot of the town of Villa Rica, we ascended another steep mountain, on -the summit of which I found iron ore in great quantities. Though not -very rich, I have no doubt it would produce 25 _per cent._ of metal. -The want of wood, which is here complained of as an objection to -working it, might be remedied by planting; for this summit is a fine -plain, which proper cultivation would render highly productive. At -present, though so near the town, it lies totally neglected, without -a single inclosure upon it. The pottery, at which we soon arrived, -has been but recently established. The clay is used in its native -state, without any admixture, and is cleared of its coarse particles -by washing. After the water has been let off and evaporated so as -to leave it of a sufficient consistency, it is put on the wheel and -formed into plates, mugs, jars, &c. which are bulky and heavy, but by -no means strong. They are rendered less fragile by being covered with -an excellent thick glazing. The furnaces have no chimneys, but consist -merely of a low arch in which are several vent holes. The glazing -furnace is reverberatory, but it is so ill constructed as to destroy -much fuel and produce little heat. Throughout the whole district there -is good coarse clay, for bricks, tiles, &c. - -I was here invited to taste some wine, made from grapes grown on -the spot, which was excellent. A more happy situation than this -vicinity affords for the growth of fruits of every kind can scarcely -be imagined. The pear, the olive, and the mulberry would thrive here -equally well with the grape, if proper pains were taken with them. A -skilful agriculturist would with great ease, I am certain, bring it -into such a state of improvement, as to serve the double purpose of -a corn and dairy farm; excellent wheat might be grown, and a certain -quantity of the land kept under artificial grasses for cutting. A fine -stream of water runs through the whole, with a sufficient fall to turn -mills. - -The principles of husbandry seem as little understood here as in any -part of the territory through which we had hitherto travelled. Perhaps -there is no country on the globe where the vicissitudes of plenty and -scarcity do not prevail, and where human experience has not shewn the -necessity of laying by a store in time of abundance, as a provision for -a season of famine; but here this salutary practice is almost wholly -disregarded. The cattle are turned out on the uninclosed tracts[39], -and left to subsist on whatever they can find. In the summer months, -when the grass throughout the wide extent is burnt up, they flock to -the margins of the rivulets as their last resource, which soon fails. -Numbers of them die of famine, and those that survive the season are so -exhausted and weakened, that they seldom thoroughly recover. - -A small mount in the vicinity of this pottery presented much -ferruginous matter, and a heavy substance that appeared to me barytes -in a botryoidal form, a specimen of which I took with me. Since my -return to England it has been proved, by analysis, to be Wavellite, -without fluoric acid. - -During my stay at Villa Rica, I rode to the city of Mariana, distant -eight miles, by a tremendous and almost impassable road, along a -ridge of mountains; and afterwards went thither by the general road -which passes between two high hills, and for some distance along the -river-side, all the way on the descent. The margins of the Rio do -Carmo, which runs through the town, have been washed the whole way -from Villa Rica: parties from which place held possession of this -settlement as early as the year 1710, claiming it on account of the -gold brought down from thence by the current of the river. It was -made a bishop’s see about the year 1715, and was called Cidade de -Mariana, in honor of the then reigning Queen of Portugal, the present -Prince Regent’s grandmother. It is a small, neat, and well-built town, -containing from six to seven thousand inhabitants. Here is a college -for the education of young men destined for the church. The bishop -is a prelate of exemplary character, and is beloved by all who know -him. The place has very little trade, and depends chiefly on the mines -and farms in its vicinity. Many miners reside here whose works are -several leagues distant, some of them have also washings extending to -the village of Camargo, situated beyond a large plain which stretches -westward from the confines of the city. - -Having resided in Villa Rica nearly a fortnight, I expressed a desire -to visit two estates, forty miles distant, known by the names of -Barro and Castro, both belonging to the Conde de Linhares. Between -the years 1730 and 1740 these estates produced much gold, and were -then in the possession of Senhor Mathias Barboza, a settler of great -respectability, who took up these lands and drove the Aborigines from -them. He becoming very rich, sent his only daughter to Portugal to -be educated, where she remained, and after his death inherited his -whole property. She was married in Lisbon to a gentleman of the family -of Sousa, and from them are descended the two noblemen of that name, -who now hold high official situations under the Prince Regent. His -Excellency the Conde’s steward furnished me and my worthy friend with -mules, and Dr. Lucas, the Judge, obligingly ordered every necessary to -be provided for our journey. We rode through Mariana, and arrived at -Alto do Chapada, a village, three miles distant from it, situated on an -elevation in the midst of a fine plain. We soon afterwards reached a -very high and confined situation, between two perpendicular mountains, -from whence we had a bird’s eye view of the village of S. Sebastian. -From this steep we descended, with great difficulty, on foot, to -the Rio do Carmo at its base, over which is a very high-arched and -picturesque bridge. Passing this ravine we proceeded a full league by -the river side, through a rich country abounding in fine sloping hills -and fertile plains, watered by numerous streams, which flow into the -river in various directions, and all of which bear vestiges of having -been formerly washed for gold. The road-side exhibited similar remains, -and seemed to have been at some period connected with the river, which, -in this part, is as large as the Thames at Windsor. We passed through -San Giatanha, a straggling, thinly peopled village, and proceeding -about three miles farther, arrived at an indifferent house, called -Lavras Velhas, where we halted for the night, having performed half -our journey. The owner of this place found it difficult, with thirty -or forty negroes, to maintain himself decently, though the land was -susceptible of every species of culture, and needed only the hand of -industry to render it productive. Every thing about the establishment -exhibited a pitiful spectacle of neglect, indifference, and sloth. It -is but justice to add, that he treated us with the greatest civility, -and amply supplied our necessities. - -Leaving Lavras Velhas at eight next morning, we passed Morro dos -Arreaes, the country presenting still finer valleys and excellent -timber, but totally destitute of cattle. Ascending a high hill, we -were immerged for about an hour in a cloud, and exposed to some small -rain, but not sufficient to penetrate our coats. This was the only rain -we experienced on the road by day. In the night the rain sometimes -fell plentifully. We observed some exceedingly large worms, stretched -motionless on the road, which our guide told us were sure signs of wet -weather. From this height we saw the Rio Gualacha, which, with another -river, joins the Rio do Carmo about ten leagues below, and forms the -Rio San Jose. Proceeding in that direction through a fine country, -we reached Altos de St. Miguel, where the river last mentioned is of -considerable width, but not deep. Its waters are extremely turbid, on -account of the mud brought from the gold-washings along the banks, from -its source to this place. These heights command a fine view of three -windings of the river; at their base there are vestiges of one of the -oldest and most extensive gold-washings, which yielded much treasure to -its discoverer and proprietor, Senhor Mathias Barboza. The country is -well wooded, but rather thinly peopled; I expressed some surprise at -observing no good dwelling-houses in a district which formerly produced -so much wealth, and was informed that the first miners, eager to take -the cream of the gold to as large an extent as they could, seldom -remained long on the same spot, and contented themselves with building -sheds, or _ranchos_, to serve for their temporary residence. - -Descending this mountain, we entered upon the estate of His Excellency, -called Fazenda do Barro, and were shewn the house at a distance of -nearly a league, on a pleasing eminence, near the river-side. On -arriving, an excellent dinner was provided for us, of which, having -been eight hours on our mules, we partook very heartily. - -The house, and indeed the whole establishment, were strikingly superior -in point of convenience, to the miserable places we had lately passed. -Having dined, we refreshed ourselves with a walk in the garden, where -the coffee-trees in full blossom showed, at a distance, as if their -branches were loaded with snow. This spot afforded a view of a most -enchanting country, diversified with gentle eminences and large valleys -well clothed with timber. From the farther margin of the river, which -flows at one hundred yards’ distance in front of the house, rises a -fine hill, well calculated for the culture of every species of produce, -and connected with others of equal fertility. - -On the following day I was chiefly occupied in visiting every part -of the establishment. The distil-house, sugar-engine, and corn-mill, -were very much out of repair; the two latter were worked by horizontal -water-wheels of great power. The buildings of the _fazenda_ form -a square, the southern side being occupied by the house, and the -three others consisting of dwellings for the negroes, storehouses, -carpenters’ and blacksmiths’ shops, and other offices equally useful. - -Having requested to see the cattle, I was shown seven fine well -proportioned cows; their calves were old, and they being unaccustomed -to be milked regularly, gave very little. I signified to the people my -wish to instruct them in the way of making butter after the English -mode; and the carpenter hearing my description of a churn, readily -assured me that he could make one, and set about it forthwith in the -following manner. He procured a trunk of a tree of the length and -girth required; sawed it length-wise in two equal parts, which, (after -hollowing them sufficiently, and preparing a bottom), he joined with -two iron hoops so tightly as to hold water. The churn-staff and top -were soon finished: but now an unexpected difficulty occurred; here -was no place free from dust and dirt to serve for a dairy, nor any pan -fit to hold the milk. All the cooking-pots that could be spared were -cleaned for this purpose, but they were quite of the wrong make, being -wide at the bottom and narrow at the brim. They were, however, laid by -along with the churn, to be used the first time the cows were milked. -The good lady of the house assisted in our preparations, and seemed -much interested in them. - -In the afternoon I rode out to see the gold-washings. On the way -thither I observed a man training a horse, with a cord attached to the -bridle in one hand, and a whip in the other. Two pieces of leather, -in the form of breechings, were sewed to two iron rings; one part -was put over the back of the animal, the other part slipped down as -a breeching; the part on the back was to prevent its slipping lower. -To these rings were tied cords from the horse’s fore-feet, capable -of being shortened or lengthened at pleasure. The horse being put in -motion, took very short fore-steps, somewhat like those of the chargers -in equestrian performances. Horses thus trained are here called -_pacers_, and are in great request among persons of distinction of both -sexes, their gait being very easy and graceful. - -On arriving at the washings, I saw a great extent of ground already -worked, and immense heaps of quartzose stones. On the margin of the -river where they were then working, I found them cutting away the -bank, to the depth of at least ten feet, to get at the _cascalho_ -incumbent on the rock. The substance they had to cut through was clay, -so strong that, though falls of water were let upon it, and negroes -were constantly working it with hoes of various kinds, it was with -difficulty to be removed. This was not the only impediment, for, by the -constant precipitation of mud, the _cascalho_ was five feet below the -bed of the river; hence, when they had sunk their pits, they had to use -means for drawing the water from them. The hydraulic machines employed -for this purpose are constructed as follows: A trough or spout, made -of four stout planks, forming a trunk, about six inches square, is -placed in an inclined position, with its lower end in the pit, where -a roller is properly secured to a pile driven in the ground: an iron -chain, with peculiar links, on every one of which is fixed a piece of -wood, nearly answering the interior dimensions of the spout, is passed -through it, then under the roller, and over the outside, up to the axis -of a water-wheel, which, being put in motion, causes the discharge of -a column water equal to the cavity. These machines are calculated to -raise a great deal of water, but they are liable to be thrown out of -repair. In many cases hand-pumps would serve the purpose better, being -made at little trouble or expense, easily repaired, and always ready -at an hour’s notice. They are here utterly unknown. - -In the operation of getting gold, the heavy work is assigned to the -male negroes, and the lighter labor to the females. The _cascalho_, -dug from these pits by the former, is carried away by the latter in -_gamellas_, or bowls, to be washed. When a sufficient quantity has been -procured, the men proceed to that process, which they perform much -in the way already described in treating of S. Paulo. I perceived, -however, that here they did not, in the first instance, attempt to -separate the gold from the black oxide of iron, but emptied their -_gamellas_ into a larger vessel, by rinsing them in the water which -it contained. The substance deposited in this vessel was delivered -out, in small portions of about a pound each, to the most skilful -washers, as the operation of washing, or, as it was termed, purifying -it, required great niceness and dexterity. Some of the grains of gold -were so fine as to float on the surface, and of course were liable to -be washed away in these repeated changes of water; to prevent which -the negroes bruised a few handfuls of herbs on a stone, and mixed the -juice in small proportions with the water in their _gamellas_. Whether -this liquid did in reality tend to precipitate the gold, I could not -positively ascertain, but the negroes certainly used it with the -greatest confidence. - -There is another mode of separating the gold from the _cascalho_ called -canoe-washing, which is extremely interesting. The canoes are made in -the following manner:—Two ten or twelve-inch planks, about twelve or -fifteen feet in length, are laid on the ground, forming an inclined -plane, sloping about one inch in twelve: two other planks of similar -dimensions are fixed in the same direction at the lower end, forming a -second inclined plane, with a fall of six inches from the former. On -their sides are boards placed edge-wise, and staked down to the ground -so as to form long shallow troughs, the bottoms of which are covered -with hides tanned with the hair on, having the hairy side outwards, or, -in defect of these, with rough baize. Down these troughs is conveyed -the water containing the oxide of iron and the lighter particles of -gold; the latter substance precipitating in its course is entangled by -the hair. Every half hour the hides are taken up, and carried to a tank -near at hand, formed of four walls, say five feet long, four broad, -and four deep, and containing about two feet depth of water. The hides -are stretched over this tank and well beaten, then dipped and beaten -repeatedly, until all the gold is disentangled, after which they are -carried back and replaced in the troughs. The tanks are locked up at -nights, and well secured. The sediment taken from them being light, is -easily washed away by the hand in the manner before described, leaving -only the black oxide of iron, called _esmeril_, and the gold, which is -so fine that mercury is used to separate it. The process, as I saw it -performed, was as follows: About two pounds weight of oxide of iron, -very rich in fine grains of gold, was put into a clean bowl; a quantity -of mercury, about two ounces, was added to it; the mass of oxide, which -was very damp, was worked by the hand for about twenty minutes, when -the mercury appeared to have separated the _esmeril_, and to have taken -up all the gold, assuming a soft doughy mass, that retained any form -into which it was squeezed. The grains of gold, however, remained, not -amalgamated with, but merely enveloped in the mercury. The mass was put -into a folded handkerchief, and an ounce or more of mercury was wrung -or squeezed from it. The rest was put into a small brass dish, covered -with a few green leaves, and then placed over a charcoal fire, where it -was stirred with an iron rod to prevent the gold from adhering to the -sides of the dish. The leaves were occasionally changed as they became -parched by the heat. When taken off, they exhibited, in some parts, -small globules of mercury, and in others white oxide; on washing them -with water, nearly half an ounce of the former substance was obtained -from them[40]. I ever observed that the gold, after this operation, -was changed in color from an agreeable soft yellow to a dirty brown, -and presented a very different appearance from that which was not -subjected to mercury. - -By way of suggesting an improvement, I made some drawings and models of -earthen vessels for evaporating, and afterwards condensing the mercury; -but the quantity of gold in the hands of individuals requiring this -mode of separation is so inconsiderable, that it would scarcely be -worth their while to alter the process now practised. - -I rode over various parts of the estate, and more particularly along -both banks of the river, which, as well as the bed, appeared to have -been much washed. The bends, or parts where eddies were formed, were -the places noted as being rich in gold. Wherever the margin formed a -flat, or level, the _cascalho_ continued under the surface to some -distance, appearing like a continuation of the bed of the river, which, -in all probability, it was, as the river is known to have been much -wider formerly. The parts that were then working, and others that had -yet to be worked, bore a very unpromising appearance. - -An opportunity was soon afforded me of carrying into execution the -proposed dairy experiment. Having obtained about six quarts of milk, -(which, on account of the scarcity of grass, was very poor), I put it -into the culinary vessels that had been set apart for it; but such -was the state of the place in which they were deposited, that that -though I placed banana leaves over them, the surface next morning was -covered with dust. I took off the cream in the best manner I could, -but not being able to find a cellar or cold place for it to stand in, -I was obliged to leave it in the same room with the milk, where it was -hardly secure against the pigs. On each of the two following mornings, -I obtained about two gallons of milk, which, being added to the other, -was in due time churned; and, notwithstanding the disadvantages of poor -milk, improper utensils, and bad keeping, a tolerably fair proportion -of good butter was obtained. The people seemed highly satisfied with -the success of the process; but I had strong doubts that they would -not pursue it after my departure, as they must naturally dislike -the trouble and care which it required. Such was the force of their -habitual and long-cherished prejudices, that I have no hesitation -in saying they would take ten times more pains to procure forty -shillings-worth of gold, at an expense of thirty shillings, than they -would to obtain forty-shillings worth of butter, though it were only to -cost them five. - -It may be expected that I should assign some reasons for entering so -frequently into detail upon one of the simplest branches of rural -economy. I have to observe, then, that ere I left Rio de Janeiro to -undertake this journey, I was informed that the cheese generally -consumed in that capital, and regarded there as a luxury, was the -produce of the district to which I was going. Its taste was sometimes -so extremely rancid and disagreeable, as to be utterly unwholesome, and -from this circumstance I judged that there must be great mismanagement -in the preparation of it. All the farms which I had occasion to visit -on my journey to Villa Rica, and from thence to this place, fully -confirmed my opinion; for, miserable as was the condition of every -department belonging to them, that of the dairy was still worse. In -the few places where they pretended to prepare milk for cheese, not -only were the various utensils in an extremely filthy condition, -but the rennet was so putrid as to be in the last degree sickening. -I endeavoured to make the people sensible of the advantages of an -improved mode of management, and wherever I had an opportunity, gave -them information how to proceed; but as oral or written instructions -were little calculated to make a durable impression, I determined, when -leisure and convenience should concur, to enforce them by example. The -first and only opportunity of this kind presented itself at the Fazenda -do Barro; and I was the more induced to avail myself of it, from -considering that the precedent which I wished to give to the farmers -of the district, would have greater influence by being sanctioned by -the approval of His Excellency the Conde de Linhares. The result, as -I have just observed, was not very flattering to my hopes; a solitary -experiment can do little towards reforming a general evil of long -continuance; and there is no probability that this or any other branch -of the farming system of the country will be improved, until the great -and the opulent zealously unite for the accomplishment of an object so -highly important. - -In our excursions through various parts of the estate, we observed on -the exterior of many of the trees a great variety of crimson lichens, -which, on being steeped in water, imparted a very strong tinge of that -color. Here were excellent barks for tanning, particularly that of a -tree called Canafistula, which does not redden or color the hide. We -found many beautiful varieties of the jacarandá, or rose-wood. - -Having resided at Barro some days, we set out for the Fazenda de -Castro, distant about seven miles, where we arrived, after a pleasant -ride over a mountainous and finely-wooded district, containing large -tracts of rich virgin land, watered by many excellent streams. This -noble mansion was erected by the first possessor of the district, -Senhor Mathias Barboza. It is very spacious and airy, having a gallery -in front forty-eight yards long, to which open fourteen folding-doors, -or windows, extending nearly from the top to the bottom of the rooms. -It is situated near the confluence of the Ribeiro do Carmo and the Rio -Gualacha, which form the San Jose, a river as large as the Thames at -Battersea. - -We did not rest above an hour at this _fazenda_, it being our -intention to visit the _aldea_ or village of S. José da Barra Longa, -situated on the confines of the territory inhabited by the Buticudos -Indians. Crossing the river by a fine wooden bridge, built about fifty -years ago, but still in tolerable repair, we proceeded along the bank, -which was embellished with several gardens, and presented more frequent -appearances of cultivation than we had of late been accustomed to -view. The climate is much hotter than at Villa Rica, on account of the -lowness of the situation; and we were informed that fruits of every -kind, particularly the pine, grew in this soil to great perfection in -size and fineness of flavor. The truth of these accounts we could not -ascertain, as this was not the fruit season. - -After travelling about four miles, we arrived at the village. It -being Sunday, numbers of people had come from various parts in the -neighbourhood to attend divine service, and, after it was over, flocked -in crowds to the place where we alighted. It appeared as if the whole -population of the village, men, women, and children, were possessed -with the same spirit of curiosity, so great was their eagerness to get -a sight of us. We dined in a mixed company of ladies and gentlemen, at -the house of the worthy vicar, who kept a very hospitable table, and -paid us the most flattering attention. A military officer and a judge, -who were of the party, entered into conversation with us; and it was -difficult to decide who were the most inquisitive, they, respecting -the motives and objects of our journey, or we, respecting the state of -the country, the Aborigines, &c. - -We learnt that the village was founded about twenty-three years ago -by a number of Portuguese, who were tempted to settle, in a spot thus -exposed to the depredations of the Buticudos, by the gold with which -it abounded. At the present day, I was informed that it contains about -four hundred inhabitants, and that the vicinity is well peopled, so -that a sufficient force is always at hand to repel the savages; who, no -longer daring to attack openly, now have often recourse to stratagem. -When they have marked out a house, and ascertained its strength, they -set fire to it by shooting arrows with fire-brands into the roof, and -fall on the unfortunate inhabitants as they are attempting to escape. -These savages, accustomed to live in the woods, and well practised in -all the arts requisite for catching the wild animals on which they -subsist, have a thousand stratagems for way-laying the settlers. -Sometimes they render themselves invisible by tying branches and young -trees about them, and fix their bows imperceptibly, so that, when a -poor negro or white happens to pass near them, they seldom miss their -aim. At other times they rub themselves with ashes and lie on the -ground, or make pit-falls, in which they place pointed stakes, and -cover them with twigs and leaves. They have a great dread of fire-arms, -and betake themselves to flight whenever they hear them: but these -weapons are by no means so general among the settlers as they ought to -be, and the few they have are of very indifferent make, and frequently -altogether useless. It sometimes, though rarely, happens, that the -soldiers surprise the aborigines, in which case no combat takes place; -the latter run away as speedily as possible; and their pursuers, taking -vengeance for injuries sustained, seldom give quarter. Those whom -they make prisoners they are obliged to tie hand and foot, and carry -on a pole to a place of security: if any one of them be loosed but -for a moment, he bursts away, and flees into the woods like a tiger, -leaving his pursuers behind. They are untameable, either by stripes or -kindness; and, if they find no means of escaping from confinement, they -commonly refuse sustenance, and die of hunger. - -The injuries occasionally done to settlers by these savages have -excited the attention of Government, who have passed a decisive law -against them. A proclamation has been issued by the Prince Regent, in -which they are invited to live in villages, and become Christians, -under a promise that, if they come to terms of peace and amity with the -Portuguese, their rights shall be acknowledged, and they shall enjoy, -in common with other subjects, the protection of the state; but, if -they persist in their barbarous and inhuman practices, the soldiers -of His Royal Highness are ordered to carry on a war of extermination -against them. Those who are taken prisoners are at the disposal of -their captors as slaves, for the space of ten years. It is doubtful -whether the offers of conciliation contained in this proclamation -will produce in any degree the desired effect; for the Buticudos have -an unconquerable aversion to a settled way of life, and a rooted -antipathy to every other nation; nor have they intelligence enough to -appreciate the benefits of civilized society; so that there appears -no hope of reducing them but by the dreadful alternative proposed in -the latter part of the decree. One reason for having recourse to this -summary mode of dealing with them, which will probably outweigh any -arguments in favor of gentler proceedings, is, that the country they -inhabit contains gold, and the settlers and adventurers are desirous -to obtain speedy possession of it. Some officers, well acquainted with -the locality of the territory, and skilled in the art of conducting an -Indian war, are already employed in this difficult enterprise. About -two leagues from this village is another, called Piranga, situated -near the margin of a river of that name, which at a distance of four -leagues joins the San Jose, and with it forms the Rio Dôce. This river -runs through a fine country, in a northerly and afterwards an easterly -direction, discharging itself into the sea in lat. 19° 30′ south. There -are three islands at its mouth, called Os Tres Irmâos, (the Three -Brothers). - -Were this river rendered navigable, what benefits might accrue to -the fine country through which it flows! Large quantities of sugar, -cotton, and other produce, which the soil is capable of growing, -besides excellent timber for exportation, would then form the basis of -an extensive commerce, by stimulating the industry of the planters, -who are at present averse from cultivating beyond the extent of their -own consumption, on account of the heavy expense attendant on a -land-carriage of above five hundred miles to the nearest sea-port. - -Piranga is perhaps more exposed to the attacks of the Indians than -the village of San Jose, but there are some gold-washings in its -neighbourhood which tempt the inhabitants to brave that danger. A small -band of horse-soldiers is stationed here to parade the confines, enter -the woods, and go in quest of the natives whenever information is -given. Yet, notwithstanding these precautions, the village is never in -perfect security; a house in its immediate vicinity was surprised a few -months previous to our visit to this district. - -We now took leave of the vicar and his guests, and, I may add, of -all the villagers, who came out to salute us as we passed. Returning -to Castro, I remained the whole of the next day to examine the -establishment. It is built, like that at Barro, in the form of a -square, the dwellings of the negroes forming three sides, and the -mansion the fourth, the entrance being in front through a pair of -gates, which, when shut, secure the whole. The rooms in the mansion -were like ancient halls, adorned with carvings, and fitted up and -furnished after the old fashion. Here were blunderbusses, swords, and -other weapons for defence, used in former days, when the house was -liable to the continual attacks of the Buticudos. The stairs, gallery, -and floors, were of fine wood, of a quality which time had not in any -degree perceptibly injured. Attached to the house were the remains -of a sugar-mill, distil-house, corn-mill, and a machine, worked by a -strap and spindles, for spinning cotton, all in a state of neglect. The -whole establishment bore marks of former opulence and grandeur, from -which it appeared to have gradually declined as the gold-washings at -the confluence of the rivers and in other parts had become exhausted. -The negroes were now all removed to Castro, except a few infirm and -sick, who were stationed here to keep the mansion in order, (this being -considered as a light employment for them), until such time as their -convalescence should fit them for resuming their labors along with -their brethren at the other estate. - -Having made a sketch of the house, and visited every part which -interested me, I returned by the same road to Barro, where I employed -myself in making a topographical map of the river, distinguishing by -different colors the places already washed for gold, those which were -then washing, and the yet unworked grounds. This sort of map might be -made on a large scale, so as to include a whole district or parish, -where the several mines, or gold-beds, in their different stages, might -be exhibited at one view. - -On this estate are employed one hundred and fifty-six negroes, of all -descriptions, who, on such excellent land, producing every necessary -for food and clothing, might be expected to earn considerably more -than their own maintenance; yet a former steward managed so ill for -twenty successive years, that, although he had nothing to purchase but -a little iron, and though the gold-mines were then more productive -than at present, he ran the establishment annually into debt to the -shopkeepers of Villa Rica. A single circumstance may account for this -mismanagement; the noble proprietor resided in Portugal. At present the -estate is in a much more prosperous way, being entrusted to the care of -another steward, and three overseers, all Creolians. The latter receive -a salary of thirty _milrees_ (about nine pounds sterling) _per annum_, -besides their maintenance; their business is to execute the orders of -the steward, and to superintend the labor of the negroes committed to -their charge. They lead a life of extreme indolence, never putting -their hands to any species of work. - -The general diet of the country-people in this land of Canaan is -somewhat similar to that of the miners in the vicinity of S. Paulo, -already described. The master, his steward, and the overseers, sit -down to a breakfast of kidney-beans of a black color, boiled, which -they mix with the flour of Indian corn, and eat with a little dry pork -fried or boiled. The dinner generally consists, also, of a bit of pork -or bacon boiled, the water from which is poured upon a dish of the -flour above mentioned, thus forming a stiff pudding. A large quantity -(about half a peck) of this food is poured in a heap in the middle of -the table, and a great dish of boiled beans is set upon it: each person -helps himself in the readiest way, there being only one knife, which is -very often dispensed with. A plate or two of colewort or cabbage-leaves -complete the repast. The food is commonly served up in the earthen -vessels used for cooking it; sometimes on pewter dishes. The general -beverage is water. At supper nothing is seen but large quantities of -boiled greens, with a little bit of poor bacon to flavor them. On any -festival occasion, or when strangers appear, the dinner or supper is -improved by the addition of a stewed fowl. - -The food prepared for the negroes is Indian corn-flour, mixed with hot -water, in which a bit of pork has been boiled. This dish serves both -for breakfast and supper. Their dinner consists of beans boiled in the -same way. This unfortunate race of men are here treated with great -kindness and humanity, which, indeed, their good behaviour seems to -deserve. They are allowed as much land as they can, at their leisure, -cultivate, (Sundays and holidays being by law allotted to them for -that purpose), and are permitted to sell or dispose of their produce -as they please. Their owners clothe them with shirts and trowsers made -of coarse cotton, which is grown and woven on the estate. Their days -of labor are rather long; before sun-rise a bell rings to summon them -to prayers, which are recited by one of the overseers, and repeated -by the congregation; after worship is over they proceed to work, at -which they continue till after sun-set, when prayers are said as in -the morning. An hour after supper they are employed in preparing -wood to burn, taking Indian corn from the husk, and in other in-door -operations. Swelled necks are not uncommon among the men-negroes, but -in other respects they appear healthy: I saw few or none afflicted with -elephantiasis, or with any cutaneous disease. There were many very -aged of both sexes; a few even remembered their old master, the first -possessor, though he has been dead upwards of sixty years. - -Their principal article of diet, the _farinha de milho_, or flour of -Indian corn, appeared so palatable and nutritive, that, after living -upon it for some time, I had the curiosity to enquire into the mode -of preparing it from the grain. It is first soaked in water, and -afterwards pounded in its swelled and moist state, to separate the -outer husk. It then appears almost granulated, and is put upon copper -pans, which have a fire underneath, and in these it is kept constantly -stirred until it is dry and fit for eating. This substitute for bread -is as common among the inhabitants here as is the _farinha de Pao_, -or mandioca, among the people of Rio de Janeiro, S. Paulo, and other -districts. - -The grain is grown always on virgin lands, cleared by burning, after -the manner already described. In good seasons, or, in other words, when -the dry weather allows the felled wood to be completely reduced to -ashes, the return is from one hundred and fifty to two hundred bushels -for one. Weeding is only performed after the seed has been a short -time in the ground; indeed, the growing crops suffer less from the -neglect of that operation than from the depredations of rats, which are -frequently very considerable. - -On the state of society here I had little leisure to make observations. -A general debility seemed to prevail among the females, which I imputed -to the want of better food and more exercise: they confine themselves -principally to the sedentary employments of sewing, or making lace. -While at San Jose I saw many females from the country, dressed in gowns -made of English prints; some of them had woollen mantles, edged with -gold lace or Manchester velvet, thrown loosely over their shoulders. -Their hair was invariably fastened with combs, and they in general -wore, out of doors, men’s hats. The men, most of whom belonged to the -militia, appeared in uniforms. No two things can be more different -than the deshabille and full-dress of a nominal militia officer. When -at home he seldom puts on more than half his clothes, over which he -throws an old great coat; and saunters about the house in this attire -from morning till night, a true picture of idleness. On Sundays, or -on gala-days, after some hours spent in decorating his person, he -sallies forth, completely metamorphosed from a slip-shod sloven into -a spruce-officer, glittering in a weight of gold lace, on a horse -caparisoned with equal splendor, forming as fine a sight for the gazing -multitude as a general at a review. He observes no medium between these -extremes, being always very shabby or very fine. - -During my stay at Barro I was presented with some singularly fine -fruit, equal in flavor to fresh almonds, and capable of being preserved -by drying only, so as to become a valuable article of commerce. Having -never before heard of this fruit, I am induced to give a brief account -of it. The exterior substance is about the size of a full-grown -cocoa-nut with the rind on, say nine or ten inches long and five or -six in the thickest part. It grows suspended from the branch by a -very slender but strong stem. This shell is full of kernels, to the -number of from thirty to fifty, of the shape of almonds, but twice or -thrice the size, disposed in ranges or layers, and separated from each -other by a white pithy substance. As these kernels ripen, the top of -the shell, which appears like a lid, is gradually forced open, and -when they are at full maturity, the larger part, which contains them, -separates and falls to the ground. The trees, at the season of shedding -their fruits, are frequented by wild hogs, herds of monkies, flocks of -parrots, and other birds, which never quit them, while any of these -delicious nuts remain. I was credibly informed that some trees have -been known to produce above a ton weight in a season. One of the nuts I -preserved and brought with me, which I sent to Sir Joseph Banks. - -We now took leave of the good people at the _fazenda_, and returned to -Villa Rica by the way we came. I had, with great difficulty, procured a -few pounds of butter, made after the new process, as a present for Dr. -Lucas, the Judge, which arrived perfectly fresh and sweet. On passing -Lavras Velhas, as we returned, we were shown some excellent cinchona, -very like that of Peru, and said to possess similar properties in -a high degree. From the specimen we saw, there was every reason -to believe, that, if fairly introduced into practice, it might be -administered in many cases with as much success as Peruvian bark; and, -as great quantities might be procured here, the experiment is certainly -worth attending to by medical men. I sent a parcel of it home, but by -some accident or other it was lost at the Custom-house. - -In many parts of our route we might have collected insects, but they -require so much attention and care in preserving them for conveyance -so great a distance, that I gave up the pursuit. It appeared to me -extraordinary, that I had not, since my arrival in Brazil, seen (except -in the cabinets of the curious,) more than one _curculio imperialis_ -(diamond-beetle), though I had frequently searched for them in almost -every variety of plantation. - -During my absence from Villa Rica one of my soldiers had procured me a -full pound of native bismuth in lumps, none of which exceeded an ounce -in weight. It is frequently found in this state, which proves that it -is out of its place, as it originally occurs in veins. Many pieces of -pyrites, and various iron ores, were also brought to me. - -I had commissioned some persons to collect land shells for me during my -absence, and was now to my great gratification presented with six, of -a fine chesnut brown color, with beautiful pink mouths, belonging to a -new variety of the helix. Having kept them a few days, without taking -out the animals, I was surprised to find that one of the latter had -laid two eggs. I had before imagined that they were oviparous. I took -one of the shells in my hand, while the animal was crawling, when it -immediately folded itself, and entered very quickly, in which exertion -another egg was deposited in the mouth of the shell. All the eggs were -about the size of a sparrow’s. These were the only land shells I had -seen on this journey. - -On resuming my visit to the mint I took an early opportunity of stating -to the acting governors my ideas respecting a new regulation for -supplying mercury to the miners. One great impediment to the use of -that metal, so essential in certain branches of the process, was the -exorbitant price at which it was exclusively sold by the apothecaries, -generally upwards of two shillings the ounce. I suggested that the mint -should be the general depository for it, and that it should be issued -from thence to the gold-washers without profit. By this regulation -the article would be brought into general use, much to the benefit -of the state as well as of private individuals. I also gave them -models of earthen vessels, which might be made at a small expense, for -evaporating and condensing the mercury, which, if universally adopted, -would effect a great saving in the consumption of that article. - -The remainder of my stay, previous to my journey to Tejuco, passed -very agreeably. In the evening-parties to which I was invited, and -which generally consisted of ladies and gentlemen, I observed that the -English style of dress prevailed, particularly among the former. The -houses of the higher classes in Villa Rica are much more convenient and -better furnished than any I saw in Rio de Janeiro and S. Paulo, and -are for the most part kept in the exactest order. Their beds seemed -to me so elegant as to deserve a particular description. The posts -were of fine wood, fluted or carved in various ways; the sides plain, -the bottoms of boards or leather. The bed itself was of cotton, the -sheets of fine linen edged with lace of home manufacture, full nine -inches broad. The bolster was covered with fine muslin, the ends of -which were edged also with lace. The pillows were made round at the -ends and covered with pink sarsnet, over which was another of fine -muslin, terminated with broad lace, which being starched and delicately -managed had a very rich appearance. The coverlet was yellow satin of a -Damask pattern, edged like the sheets and pillows with broad lace. The -hangings were of the same materials, in the form of a canopy, without -curtains. Not excepting the refinements of recent date in this article -of furniture, I never saw beds so magnificent as those of the opulent -in this captaincy. - -Every thing being now in readiness for my departure, I waited upon -the several inhabitants to whom I had been introduced, to express -my thanks for the polite attentions they had shewn me, and received -from them the most obliging assurances of friendship, and the kindest -wishes for my welfare. I also, much to my regret, took leave of my -valued friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. Goodall, whose affairs required -him to go to St. João D’El Rey, and thence return to Rio de Janeiro. -Never was a traveller more fortunate in a companion; always cheerful -and in spirits, he had the happy faculty of regarding every thing on -its bright side, and in all the various inconveniences of bad roads, -wretched inns, miserable fare, and worse accommodations, he exemplified -the truth of the adage that, “a merry heart hath a continual feast.” -Being perfectly master of the language, and well acquainted with the -character and manners of the people, he made himself at home every -where, and generally contrived to draw from the conversation of those -around him, some topic either for lively remark or instructive comment. -These amiable qualities, the offspring of a cultivated understanding -and an excellent heart, gave him a double claim to that respect and -confidence which we ever entertain for those whom we distinguish by the -name of friend. - - - - -CHAP. XII - -_Journey from Villa Rica to Tejuco, the Capital of the Diamond -District._ - - -HAVING previously sent letters to his Excellency the Conde de Linhares, -giving him an account of my proceedings, I set out from Villa Rica, -attended by the two soldiers and my negro servant. I passed through the -city of Mariana, and entered upon the plain in its vicinity already -mentioned, which, in the rainy season, is often entirely overflowed. -To the left I observed a beautiful and romantic mountain, called Morro -de Santa Anna, on which stood many small neat houses, surrounded -by coffee-plantations and orangeries; its base was watered by a -_corvinha_, or rivulet, the banks of which contain much gold, and are -worked by the inhabitants of the mount. Passing onward, the road became -very confined; and the land, though now covered with wood, appeared to -have been formerly under cultivation. We here met a number of mules -laden with sugar, destined for Villa Rica, or, if not sold there, for -Rio de Janeiro. - -We arrived and refreshed at a little village called Camargo, and passed -an excellent house, situated near a rivulet of that name, where there -is a gold-washing, which employs about two hundred negroes, and is said -to be very productive. About a league farther we passed a poor little -place called Bento Rodriguez, and about six in the evening arrived at -a very considerable village, called Inficionado, which contains full -fifteen hundred inhabitants. It had been more populous, but its mines -having decreased, it was then on the decline. Finding no inn that -offered any thing tolerable, I alighted at the house of a shopkeeper, -who very civilly provided me an apartment to sleep in, and introduced -me at supper to his wife, and three other ladies, whose society was -very pleasant and cheerful. On the next day, after some trouble, -my soldiers at a late hour procured mules, when I set out about ten -o’clock upon a bad road, and, after travelling half a league, arrived -at the Corgo do Inficionado, a fine rivulet flowing through a country -rich in gold, particularly near the village of Santa Barbara, where -washings appear in all directions. From hence to the village of Catas -Altas, two leagues distant, is a tract of the finest open country I -ever travelled in Brazil; it has many features resembling that between -Matlock and Derby, and its mountains bear a strong similarity to those -of Westmoreland. There are slips in some of them in which topazes are -found, but rarely any of good quality. This district appeared equally -suited for mining and agriculture, the ground being rich above as well -as below. The village of Catas Altas, through which we rode, contains -at least two thousand inhabitants, and is situated in a populous -neighbourhood. The public buildings are well constructed, and the -private houses in general appear very respectable, but bear evident -marks of decay. We crossed the river which is broad but shallow, and -has works on its banks of greater extent and under better management -than any I had hitherto seen. The whole vicinity is irrigated by -numerous rivulets, many of which are diverted from their courses to a -great distance for the purpose of gold-washing. In all parts, even on -the tops and sides of the hills, we observed operations of this kind -going on; in the valleys there were many spots still rich in gold, -which had not yet been washed. - -Continuing about six miles over this naked country, we entered on a -more confined road, and passing a village called Cocaes, proceeded half -a league further in the dark, to the mansion of Senhor Felicio, the -_Capitao Mor_ of the district, where we alighted, having travelled this -day above thirty miles. On being announced, I was immediately shown -up stairs into a suite of handsome apartments, furnished with great -magnificence, where I was introduced by the _Capitao_ to his amiable -lady and daughter. We were joined by Dr. Gomides, a man of talents and -science, with whom I entered into conversation, and who afterwards -showed me a fine collection of gold in various forms, some like -duck-shot, others laminated with micaceous iron, others arborescent. -He had also some specimens of stalactitic matter, on which nitre was -forming, others of specular iron ore, and three or four fine pieces -of chrome, which I at first took for realgar. From this gentleman I -received considerable information respecting the mineralogy of the -country, which is so difficult to be obtained accurate, that I found -reason to reject all which did not correspond with what I saw. In the -course of the evening the party was joined by the Count de Oeyenhausen, -who commands a corps of cavalry in the district. He made many enquiries -of me respecting England, that being the country in which he had -received his education, and to which he seemed as much attached as to -his native soil. - -This large establishment, though still rich in gold, is worked by -only two hundred negroes. One part of the estate is an auriferous -mountain of schistus, containing beds of micaceous iron ore; the -latter substance forms a thin stratum, which contains gold in grains -laminated with it. It is singular to remark, that the _cascalho_, which -generally, nay, almost invariably occurs in ravines and low situations, -is here found at a very small depth below the surface on the summit. - -The discovery of the original gold mine in this rich _sesmaria_, -is said to have been owing to the following accident. Some negroes -employed in clearing the land, broke up an ant-hill of considerable -size, when, on laying it open to the air, for the purpose of destroying -or dispersing the insects, large grains of gold were found. It is, -however, highly probable that the general characteristics of the soil -had led to the discovery long before this period, and that the accident -here related, served only to indicate the presence of gold in a part -which had not been supposed to contain any. The estate is situated -almost in the centre of the mining country, and is reputed one of the -richest portions of it. The owner and his brother, who are partners, -have conducted their concerns in a liberal way, and are said to be very -wealthy. It was my wish to have staid a day or two for the purpose of -inspecting the extensive works which they have opened; but I forebore -to make any request of this nature, as I perceived, or supposed, some -little jealousy or suspicion respecting my views. It seemed to be the -opinion here, as well as in other places, that I had a mission from -Government, authorizing me to enquire into the state of the mines, and -give a report concerning them. - -In riding past the works, after having taken leave of the _Capitao_ -I did not perceive any machinery used for facilitating manual labor. -The tedious process of washing by hand was most generally practised; -in some instances inclined canoes were used, which, if carried to the -degree of improvement of which they are susceptible, might much more -effectually answer the purpose. - -Between the mountain on _Capitao_ Felicio’s estate and the village of -Sabará is a rich mining district, which extends also to Bromare, over -a continuation of hilly country. It is occupied by several opulent -miners, who possess many fine grounds still unworked. A tract of land -a few miles in extent is appropriated to agricultural purposes, being -reputed to be destitute of gold. - -I proceeded four leagues, over a well-watered and finely-wooded -country, to a hamlet called Vaz, a name which had become familiar -to my ear through the frequent mention which my soldiers made of -“the good old man of Vaz.” This person, whose reception of me fully -justified the appellation with which he had been distinguished, was -a farmer from Oporto, who had been resident here about forty years. -He bought the estate with twenty negroes upon it, and paid for it by -yearly instalments in twenty years afterwards. This mode of disposing -of estates is much practised, being at once easy to the purchaser, -and advantageous to the seller, as it ensures to the latter a better -price than he could obtain on the condition of immediate payment. -The house, which is well-built and convenient, has a sugar-mill and -distillery attached to it. The sugar is generally sent to Rio, under an -agreement with the carrier, giving him half or sometimes two-thirds of -the proceeds, with a promise of back-carriage of salt, iron, and other -commodities. - -Owing to the kind assiduities of my worthy host, the evening passed -very agreeably. Many of the neighbours came to see and converse with -me, as I was the first Englishman, or perhaps foreigner, who had ever -travelled so far into the interior. Their curiosity led them to examine -almost every implement I carried with me; my saddle, bridle, and -stirrups, were viewed with great attention; nor could they imagine how -it was possible to sit in the former with any degree of safety. There -was no convincing them that it was much preferable to the Portuguese -saddle, which has a ridge about eight inches high, both before and -behind, so that the rider is, as it were, in the stocks, and, though -not so liable to be thrown out, has a most galling and uncomfortable -seat. - -The next morning I visited the negroes’ houses, and was much pleased -to find one set apart for the reception of poor distressed travelling -negroes, who here find a fatherly protection, and are allowed to -stay as long a time as may suit their necessities. On taking leave -of the good old gentleman, I could not prevail on him to accept any -remuneration for his kindness, and he replied to my thanks with the -warmest assurances of welcome. I crossed a fine stream, and rode -through several plantations of sugar-cane, which were at this season -nearly ready for cutting. The country, as we proceeded, gradually -became more mountainous, and abounded with argillaceous schistus -very full of quartz. After riding about sixteen miles, we saw a very -singular mountain, or bare rock of granite, called Itambé, forming part -of a high ridge which lay on our left. About four o’clock we arrived -at a poor village, also called Itambé, situated near a fine river of -the same name. This place was formerly of some consequence, but as the -gold in its vicinity failed, it sunk into poverty and wretchedness. -It contains about a thousand inhabitants, who, degraded to the lowest -stage of inactive apathy, looked as if they were the ghosts of their -progenitors haunting the ruins of their departed wealth. - -Every thing about them bore a cheerless aspect; the houses were ready -to fall to the ground through want of repair; the door-places were -overgrown with grass, and the patches of garden-ground that here and -there appeared, were covered with weeds. The face of the country, too, -was entirely different from that which I had passed on my way hither, -being universally sterile, dry, and stony. It may well be supposed, -from this description, that our accommodations here were of the worst -kind: we halted at a miserable abode, where they offered us some mouldy -Indian corn and _feijones_, and, after a great deal of difficulty, -procured us a fowl. My servant was obliged to clean all the utensils -before they could be used; and the soldiers while cooking, were obliged -to guard the pot lest some half-famished prowler should steal it. The -commandant of the place, with whom we had afterwards some conversation, -answered our remarks on the visible signs of starvation in the looks of -the villagers, by coolly saying, “While they get Indian corn to eat, -and water to drink, they will not die of hunger.” I was glad to depart -from this home of famine as fast as possible, heartily joining in the -exclamation which the Portuguese have bestowed upon it; “Das mizerias -de Itambé _libera nos Domine_!”—(From the miseries of Itambé the Lord -deliver us!) - -After riding about five miles, we came to the River Das Onzas, so -named from the numbers of those animals which formerly infested its -banks. Changing our mules at a village called Lagos, cosisting of a -few miserable _fazendas_, we proceeded a league over a most rugged -and mountainous road, and passing a ridge, entered on a fine country, -presenting to view a grand picturesque mountain nearly a league distant -from us; about mid-way up was a large house, to which we directed our -course. We forded a rather deep river called Rio Negro, on account of -the blackness of its waters, caused by the decomposition of bituminous -or vegetable matter. Its margin, along which we rode for some distance, -presented some fine grazing land. Passing through a broken and -irregular tract of country, we arrived at another deserted village -called Gaspar Soares, and rode up to the house above-mentioned, the -owner of which was from home, but his lady received me very politely. -Having arrived rather early in the evening, I employed myself some time -in walking about the grounds: the mountain on which the house stands -consists almost entirely of micaceous iron ore[41]; the wall before -the door of the house was built of that substance. In some parts, to -my great surprise, I observed it lying in regular strata, not more -than an inch in thickness, between beds of white sand. The quantity of -ore found in this neighbourhood is so considerable as to have induced -Government to commence an iron-work, under the direction of Dr. Manoel -Ferreira da Camara, Intendant of the Diamond District. In aid of this -undertaking, the gentleman, at whose house I was a guest, has presented -a square league of woodland, the only tract of that description in the -neighbourhood. The ground for the intended works is marked out, and -a few blocks of stone are prepared; but the undertaking seems to go -on very slowly, and probably will not arrive at any great degree of -perfection. - -This hill and the streams near it were formerly rich in gold, but they -have been completely washed, and are at present as much exhausted -as the works at Itambé. A rivulet which runs over the top of the -hill afforded conveniences for washing, which are very rarely to be -met with; it is now intended to be converted to the use of the iron -manufactory. - -On the following day I continued my route northerly, over a fine -country, and, after riding, or rather walking, about six miles of -bad road with wretched mules, ascended a hill abounding with rich -compact iron ore. Two leagues of the way were covered with excellent -oxide of iron, and it appeared as if the hills were entirely covered -with that substance. Without any material occurrence, we arrived at a -beautiful rivulet, near which stood a miserable hut, where two women -were weaving cotton. This place, apparently so insignificant, proved -one of the most interesting, in a mineralogical point of view, which -I had hitherto visited. It is called Lagos, and also bears the name -of Ouro Branco (White Gold), in allusion to a granular substance, not -unlike gold in size and weight, found in a gold-washing in the bed of -the stream. This substance, which has since been proved to be platina, -was discovered many years ago in the _cascalho_ below the vegetable -earth, and incumbent on the solid rock, accompanied with gold and -black oxide of iron. From these circumstances the people judged it -to be gold united with some other metal, from which it could not be -separated; and, as the quantity of real gold found was small, and the -white gold, as they called it, was not known to be of value, the work -was gradually neglected, and at length abandoned. I procured a specimen -of the substance: it appeared accompanied with _osmium_ and _iridium_, -and was in rougher grains than the platina brought from the province of -Choco; which latter circumstance may be owing to its not having been -triturated with mercury. Now that the substance is known to be platina, -it is doubtful whether the work might be resumed with advantage, as -the demand for that article is at present so small, that the quantity -sold would hardly pay expenses. Near this place is a work called Mata -Cavallos. - -The rivulet of Lagos empties itself into the Rio de St. Antonio, -along which we rode a small distance, and proceeding about four miles -farther, arrived at Conceição, a large and tolerably handsome village. -I was conducted to the house of the curate, who kindly assigned to me -an apartment for the night, and, perceiving that I was unwell, gave me -an invitation to rest a day, which I very gladly accepted. - -I here received many visits from the villagers, whose curiosity had -been excited by the news of an Englishman having arrived: some of -them were upwards of eighty years of age, and, as they had resided -here more than fifty, they were able to give many curious accounts of -the country, and of the progress and decline of its mines. I was much -pleased with the information they communicated, but more so with the -attention of the good curate, who corrected every misrepresentation, -and seemed anxious that I should not be led into error, either through -accident or design. By some means or other, an opinion circulated -among them that I was a medical man, and numbers of infirm persons, -principally old men, women, and children, were brought to me for -advice. In the evening we were entertained with music by some of the -younger females, who brought their guitars, and sung several pleasing -airs. - -I was here shown a Buticudo Indian boy, apparently about nine years of -age, who had been taken about six months before. He could not utter a -word of Portuguese; but, from the expression of his countenance, his -mind seemed capable of receiving any tuition. His eyes had so much -vivacity in them that they almost spoke, especially when his attention -was attracted by any thing agreeable, as I found by offering him -a few sweetmeats, with which he seemed much delighted. I examined -his features and the construction of his frame with some curiosity, -as exhibiting the characteristics of the singular race of men from -whom he sprung. The face was short, the mouth rather wide, the nose -broad, the eyes large and black, skin of a dusky copper color, hair -jet-black, strong, straight, and of regular length, limbs stout and -well-proportioned, feet large, probably from going without shoes. He -lived with a poor woman, who clothed and brought him up exactly as -one of her family. On enquiring how he came there, I was informed -that he belonged to a party of Indians who were surprised at a place -about six leagues distant, and all either fell or escaped, except this -little fellow, who was taken care of, and brought hither by an officer -resident in the village. - -Being still too unwell to travel, I remained another day, and met with -every attention and care from the good clergyman and his housekeeper. -In the course of conversation, he informed me that he studied and had -been ordained at S. Paulo; and when he learnt that I had been there so -recently, seemed much pleased, and asked me many questions respecting -the present state of that city, which showed his attachment to it as -the scene of his youthful days. - -About a week previous to my arrival, this village was the scene of -a somewhat remarkable adventure. A _tropeiro_[42] going to Rio de -Janeiro with some loaded mules, was overtaken by two cavalry soldiers, -who ordered him to surrender his fowling-piece; which being done, they -bored the butt-end with a gimblet, and finding it hollow, took off the -iron from the end, where they found a cavity containing about three -hundred carats of diamonds, which they immediately seized. The man -in vain protested his innocence, stating that he had bought the gun -of a friend: he was hurried away, and thrown into prison at Tejuco, -where I afterwards saw him. The diamonds were confiscated, and the -soldiers received half their value. The fate of this man is a dreadful -instance of the rigor of the existing laws: he will forfeit all his -property, and be confined, probably, for the remainder of his days -in a loathsome prison, among felons and murderers. What must be the -feelings (if, indeed, he can be said to possess any) of the fellow who -betrayed him; for, doubtless, the poor man owed his misfortune to some -secret villain, in the shape of a confidential friend, who, having -learned his mode of carrying diamonds concealed, had, for the sake of -a paltry premium, or from some mean spirited motive, given notice of -it to Government! How must the miscreant recoil at having brought to -irreparable ruin, and plunged into that lowest state of human misery, -perpetual imprisonment, a man who not only claimed his sympathy as a -fellow-creature, but was united to him by the ties of friendship! - -The village of Conceição, seemed to me large enough to contain -two thousand inhabitants, but, like most others in this exhausted -district, it was fast hastening to decay. The rent of a tolerable -house is about two shillings a month. The only manufacture carried on -here is that of a little cotton, which is spun by the hand and woven -into coarse shirting. It appears to be a maxim among the inhabitants -rather to go naked, than labor to clothe themselves. The vestiges of -old gold-washings in every direction, and the slight quantities still -found in all parts, from the summits of the mountains to their bases, -might almost lead a traveller to conclude that the whole country was -at one period auriferous. The surface is in general fine red earth, -and in many parts presents fine situations for iron works, as there -is ore and wood in abundance. It is much to be wished that such works -were established; for iron is so dear at Conceição, and the people in -general so poor, that the mules have seldom a shoe to their feet, which -is irksome to the riders, and dangerous to the animals themselves, -as they are continually coming down, particularly when ascending a -clay-hill, after a shower of rain. - -Neither here, nor in any other part of my journey from Villa Rica, -did I observe any limestone, though I was informed that considerable -quantities were found near Sabará. - -Taking leave of the worthy curate, I set out for Tapinhoá-canga[43], -distant about thirty miles. After an unpleasant ride through a rough -stony country, abounding in quartz laminated with schistus, I reached a -village called Corvos, where there are some gold-washings, one of which -produced, about half a year ago, a net profit of £800, though only -four negroes were employed a month upon it. The road to the village -above mentioned led through a most uneven tract, presenting formidable -precipices, which required us to travel with so much caution, that -we did not complete our journey until an hour after sun-set. I was -received into a very respectable house, which had the appearance -of former opulence. The owner, Captain Bom-jardim, a venerable old -gentleman, came to welcome me: on entering into conversation, he -informed me that he had emigrated hither from Oporto at the age of -seventeen, and had lived here sixty-two years. He was tempted to settle -here by the hope of participating in the rich treasures for which the -country was then famed; but he arrived two or three years too late: -the mines were already on the decline, and he was obliged to turn his -attention to agricultural pursuits, in which he persevered with such -success that he was enabled to realize a comfortable independency, and -to bring up a numerous family in credit and respectability. It had been -well if his neighbours had profited by so eminent an example, instead -of deserting the country when the gold on its surface disappeared. -That many did so was evident from the declining state of the village; -a great number of its houses were falling to decay, others were -untenanted, and its population, which formerly amounted to near three -thousand, was dwindled to a third of that amount. - -Continuing my journey next day, I crossed the ridge of a lofty chain of -mountains, abounding with streams, that were much swoln in consequence -of the late rains; one of the largest, called Rio dos Peixes, I forded -thrice, and entered on a wide champaign country. In many parts I saw -large tracts of bare places, where the grit-stone alternated with -argillaceous schistus. The next ten miles led through an elevated -and fertile plain, intersected with rivulets in every direction, and -well calculated for farming, but very thinly inhabited. Early in the -afternoon I reached an eminence, from which I had a fine view of Villa -do Principe, situated on the rise of a lofty hill opposite, the base of -which was washed by a rivulet called _Corvinho dos Quatro Vintens_[44]. -On arriving in the town, I was conducted to the house of the governor, -or chief magistrate, who received me very politely, and introduced me -to his lady and a party of friends, with whom I took tea. - -Villa do Principe was established as a _comarco_, or district, in -the year 1730, when the gold-washings were most productive: but it -dates its origin fifteen years earlier, at which period the place was -discovered by the Paulistas, who had then commenced to migrate from -Villa Rica and the adjacent settlements. The town at present contains -about five thousand inhabitants, the most considerable proportion of -whom are shopkeepers, and the rest artisans, farmers, miners, and -laborers. Here is a house of permutation, to which every miner in the -district brings the gold he obtains, and pays the royal fifth, as is -done in Villa Rica. The _ouvidor_ holds the office of mint-master, -which renders his situation one of the best in the gift of the crown. -Here are several inferior officers belonging to various departments of -the public service. As this town is situated very near the confines of -the Diamond District, and on the high road leading to it, the strictest -regulations prevail respecting the passage of all persons thither. No -one, except travellers on business, with certificates to that effect, -is suffered to proceed, until a formal notification has been made to -the governor of that district; the laws of which are so strict, that -any person found within it, out of the regular road, is liable to -be apprehended on suspicion, and subjected to an examination, which -frequently occasions much trouble and delay. - -The country around Villa do Principe is very fine and open, being free -from those impenetrable woods, which occur so frequently in other -parts of the province. Its soil is in general very productive, and the -climate mild and salubrious. - -At a washing about six leagues distant, a lump of gold was found of -several pounds weight. From the same place I procured some above two -ounces, and obtained the large crystals now in my possession, one of -which is considered unique. - -I quitted Villa do Principe about noon on the day following, after -making my acknowledgments for the polite attentions of the governor, -who kindly sent a servant to attend me the first league of the road. -This man I commissioned, under a promise of pecuniary recompence, to -collect for me land-shells and insects, against my return, which I -expected would take place in two or three months; and, from the aptness -with which he received my directions, (joined to the prospect of -emolument), I had little doubt but that he would attend to them. - -As we journeyed on, I perceived that the country bore an aspect -entirely different from that in the neighbourhood of Villa do -Principe: its surface, consisting of coarse sand and rounded quartz -pebbles, was almost destitute of wood or herbage. One hillock near -the road exhibited perpendicular laminæ of micaceous grit, which, on -alighting from my horse and examining, I found to be flexible. My -soldier, hearing me remark that the country bore characteristics which -I had never observed elsewhere, exclaimed, “Senhor, we are in the -Diamond District.” This circumstance, which I had not before thought -of, fully accounted for the change. We travelled over a very sterile -country for the first four leagues, and passed several high mountains. -Towards the close of the day we reached an eminence, from which we -beheld a most romantic cluster of dwellings, resembling a labyrinth, -or a negroes-town in Africa. We descended the hill, and approached the -place; when, it being nearly dark, I was conducted to a house much -larger than any of the others, where I learnt that the establishment -was a diamond-work called San Gonzales, the first which occurs in the -Serro do Frio. It has been some time on the decline, and employs about -200 negroes. The intendant, a very intelligent man, had been apprised -of our coming by a letter from the governor at Tejuco, and gave me -a very friendly reception. While engaged in conversation with him, -I observed (it being now moon-light) some fine cows in front of the -premises, and concluded that they were come to be milked, but this I -understood was not the case. They were licking the doorposts and sides -of the houses, with much apparent eagerness, and, on enquiring what -this signified, I was told that they wanted salt. They were so tame -and gentle that, on holding out my hand, they licked it; when, being -desirous to see the effect which salt produced on them, I procured -some, and gave them a handful: but they became so very unruly for more, -that had I not immediately desisted and retired, their fury might have -produced serious consequences. This article is so necessary for the -support of the cattle, that their very existence depends on it, yet it -is encumbered with a heavier duty than any other article of import, -iron alone excepted. Surely, when it is considered that vast herds are -daily sent from this province to Rio de Janeiro, each paying a toll of -nearly twelve shillings on crossing the river Paraibuna, the impolicy -of this duty must be self-evident, because, in raising the price of the -commodity to an excessive degree, it checks the breed of cattle, and -thus ultimately defeats the purpose for which it was imposed. - -The next day, before we left this romantic place, I devoted some -time to an examination of the refuse-hillocks contiguous to the -diamond-works, but found nothing among the heaps of quartzose stones, -which had been washed when this place was more in repute. I here -noticed a thin stratum below the roots of the grass, which I had -elsewhere seen, but never so distinctly characteristic. It is called -_bergalhão_, and consists of quartz pebbles, generally angular, and -not unfrequently large beds of solid quartz not more than four or -five inches thick. This stratum does not appear to have been formed -at the same time, or by the same means as the _cascalho_, from which -it is invariably separated by a stratum of vegetable earth unequal -in thickness; it has more the appearance of a thin bed of quartz -subsequently shattered into innumerable fragments. - -Having taken leave of the administrator, I proceeded through a -continuation of mountains and sterile country, very thinly inhabited. -I stopt at one of the best of the few miserable houses on the road to -procure some refreshment. There was a half-starved cat in the door-way, -the sight of which plainly evinced to me what I had to expect. Poor -animal, thought I, the habitation in which thou existest, will not -afford maintenance for a mouse, much less for thee! While musing on -this picture of distress and famine, a poor meagre woman came to the -door, of whom I requested a little water, which she brought me, and -while I was drinking it she began to implore charity. Her countenance -had already expressed what her tongue now uttered: I gave her the few -provisions my soldiers had with them, together with a small piece of -money, and took leave;—the last words I heard from her were those of -gratitude. - -Ere we arrived at this place, we had seen Tejuco at full twelve miles’ -distance, and were now much nearer. We crossed two rapid rivulets, -one of them called Rio Negro, the waters of which were of a very black -color, and afterwards passed a guard-house, or register, called Milho -Verde, situated near a stream of the same name, formerly much noted for -diamonds. Here a band of soldiers are stationed, who are always on the -alert, riding after and examining passengers. The country is extremely -rough, and destitute of vegetation, covered in all directions with -grit-stone rocks full of rounded quartzose pebbles. We rode two miles -along the Corvinho de St. Francisco, which runs through the ravine -at the foot of the mountain on the side of which Tejuco is built, -presenting much the same appearance as Villa Rica. I entered the town, -and took up my abode at the best inn, which contained some neat rooms, -and afforded tolerable accommodations. - -This was Sunday the 17th of September, being one month since my -departure from Rio de Janeiro, during which period I had been -almost continually on horseback; for the time I remained at Villa -Rica was principally occupied in journies to various places in the -neighbourhood. - - - - -CHAP. XIII. - - _Visit to the Diamond Works on the River Jiquitinhonha.—General - Description of the Works.—Mode of Washing.—Return to Tejuco.—Visit - to the Treasury.—Excursion to Rio Pardo.—Miscellaneous Remarks._ - - -THE continual fatigues, and want of accommodation on the journey, had -rendered me very unwell, and I was therefore desirous of resting a -week at Tejuco before I proceeded to the diamond mines; but, learning -that I had been expected for the last two or three days, I sent one of -my soldiers up to the house of Dr. Camara, the governor, to announce -my arrival, and to state that I was prevented by indisposition from -personally paying my respects to him. He immediately came with a few -friends to visit me, gave me a most hearty welcome to Tejuco, and staid -with me at least three hours. I delivered to him my public and private -letters, passports, and other credentials, which he perused with great -satisfaction, observing to the _ouvidor_ and his friends, that I -possessed the same privileges which they did, having permission from -the court to see every place I wished, which they were directed to show -me. He then told me that, in expectation of my arrival, he had delayed -a journey to the greatest of the diamond works, called Mandanga, -situated on the river Jiquitinhonha, which employs about a thousand -Negroes, and on particular occasions double that number. He was -desirous that I should see this great work with all the machinery in -operation, which would be very speedily removed, the late rains having -swoln the rivers so much as to render working more, impracticable. He -therefore kindly invited me to breakfast at his house on the following -morning, when he would have all in readiness for a journey of about -thirty miles to the place above mentioned. - -At an early hour I arose; and, though so unwell as to be scarcely -more than half alive, I could not resist the favorable opportunity -now offered me of gratifying the curiosity which had so long occupied -my mind, by visiting the diamond mines, in company with the principal -officer in the administration of them, who was therefore qualified -to furnish me with the amplest information. A fine horse was waiting -for me at the door, and I rode up to the house of the governor, who -introduced me to his amiable lady, daughters, and family, with whom -I had the honor to take breakfast. Several officers of the diamond -establishment arrived on horseback to accompany us, their presence -being required on this occasion. - -At nine o’clock we set out, and crossed the ravine, watered by the -small rivulet of St. Franciso, which separates Tejuco from the opposite -mountains. The road was very rough and uneven, continually ascending -or descending mountains of considerable extent, the strata of which -were grit alternating with micaceous schistus, and presenting an -immense quantity of rude masses, composed of grit and rounded quartz, -forming a loose and friable kind of pudding-stone. The country appeared -almost destitute of wood, presenting occasionally a few poor shrubs; -there were no cattle to be seen, yet some of the tracts would certainly -maintain sheep in great numbers. Having halted at a place about half -way, we descended a very steep mountain, full a mile in the declivity, -and entered a ravine, where we crossed a very good wooden bridge over -the river Jiquitinhonha, which is larger than the Derwent at Derby. We -rode along its margin, where the land appears much richer, presenting -a good vegetable soil covered with underwood; and, proceeding about a -league, arrived at the famed place called Mandanga. The habitations, -which are about one hundred in number, are built detached, and are -generally of a circular form, with very high thatched roofs, like -African huts, but much larger. The walls are formed of upright stakes, -interwoven with small branches, and coated with clay inside and out. -The houses of the officers are of the same materials but of much more -convenient form, and whitewashed within. Near some of the houses we -observed inclosures for gardens, which, in some degree, enlivened -the prospect, and gave an air of comfort to these rude and simple -dwellings. - -I remained here five days, during which I was occupied in viewing and -examining various parts of the works, of which I shall here attempt to -give a general description. - -This rich river, formed by the junction of a number of streams which -will be hereafter noted, is as wide as the Thames at Windsor, and -in general from three to nine feet deep. The part now in working is -a curve or elbow, from which the current is diverted into a canal -cut across the tongue of land, round which it winds, the river being -stopped just below the head of the canal by an embankment, formed -of several thousand bags of sand. This is a work of considerable -magnitude, and requires the co-operation of all the negroes to -complete it; for, the river being wide and not very shallow, and also -occasionally subject to overflows, they have to make the embankment so -strong as to resist the pressure of the water, admitting it to rise -four or five feet. - -[Illustration: BREAK IN THE HILL SHEWING THE TOPAZ MINE AT CAPON.] - -[Illustration: BED OF THE RIVER LAID DRY BY AN AQUEDUCT TO CONNECT THE -ALLUVIAL SOIL IN ORDER TO WASH IT FOR DIAMONDS, GOLD, &c.] - -The deeper parts of the channel of the river are laid dry by means -of large _caissons_ or chain-pumps, worked by a water-wheel. The -mud is then carried off, and the _cascalho_ is dug up and removed -to a convenient place for washing. This labor was, until lately, -performed by the negroes, who carried the _cascalho_ in _gamellas_ -on their heads, but Dr. Camara has formed two inclined planes about -one hundred yards in length, along which carts are drawn by a large -water-wheel, divided into two parts, the ladles or buckets of which are -so constructed that the rotatory motion may be altered by changing the -current of water from one side to the other; this wheel, by means of -a rope made of untanned hides, works two carts, one of which descends -empty on one inclined plane, while the other, loaded with _cascalho_, -is drawn to the top of the other inclined plane, where it falls into -a cradle, empties itself, and descends in its turn. At a work, called -Cangica, formerly of great importance, about a mile up the river on the -opposite side, there are three cylindrical engines (_wims_) for drawing -the _cascalho_, like those used in the mining country of Derbyshire, -and also rail-ways over some uneven ground. This was the first and -only machinery of consequence which I saw in the Diamond District, and -there appear many obstacles to the general introduction of it. Timber, -when wanted of large size, has to be fetched a distance of one hundred -miles at a very heavy expense; there are few persons competent to the -construction of machines, and the workmen dislike to make them, fearing -that this is only part of a general plan for superseding manual labor. - -The stratum of _cascalho_ consists of the same materials with that in -the gold district. On many parts, by the edge of the river, are large -conglomerated masses of rounded pebbles cemented by oxide of iron, -which sometimes envelop gold and diamonds. They calculate on getting -as much _cascalho_ in the dry season as will occupy all their hands -during the months which are more subject to rain. When carried from -the bed of the river whence it is dug, it is laid in heaps containing -apparently from five to fifteen tons each. - -Water is conveyed from a distance, and is distributed to the various -parts of the works by means of aqueducts, constructed with great -ingenuity and skill. The method of washing for diamonds at this place -is as follows:—A shed is erected in the form of a parallelogram, -twenty-five or thirty yards long, and about fifteen wide, consisting of -upright posts which support a roof thatched with long grass. Down the -middle of the area of this shed a current of water is conveyed through -a canal covered with strong planks, on which the _cascalho_ is laid two -or three feet thick. On the other side of the area is a flooring of -planks, from four to five yards long, embedded in clay, extending the -whole length of the shed, and having a slope from the canal, of three -or four inches to a yard. This flooring is divided into about twenty -compartments or troughs, each about three feet wide, by means of planks -placed on their edge. The upper ends of all these troughs (here called -canoes) communicate with the canal, and are so formed that water is -admitted into them between two planks that are about an inch separate. -Through this opening the current falls about six inches into the -trough, and may be directed to any part of it, or stopped at pleasure -by means of a small quantity of clay. For instance, sometimes water is -required only from one corner of the aperture, then the remaining part -is stopped; sometimes it is wanted from the centre, then the extremes -are stopped; and sometimes only a gentle rill is wanted, then the clay -is applied accordingly. Along the lower ends of the troughs a small -channel is dug to carry off the water. - -[Illustration: NEGROES WASHING FOR DIAMONDS, GOLD &c.] - -On the heap of _cascalho_, at equal distances, are placed three high -chairs[45] for the officers or overseers. After they are seated, the -negroes[46] enter the troughs, each provided with a rake of a peculiar -form and short handle, with which he rakes into the trough about fifty -or eighty pounds weight of _cascalho_. The water being then let in -upon it, the _cascalho_ is spread abroad and continually raked up to -the head of the trough, so as to be kept in constant motion. This -operation is performed for the space of a quarter of an hour; the water -then begins to run clearer, having washed the earthy particles away, -the gravel-like matter is raked up to the end of the trough; after the -current flows away quite clear, the largest stones are thrown out, and -afterwards those of inferior size, then the whole is examined with -great care for diamonds[47]. When a negro finds one, he immediately -stands upright and claps his hands, then extends them, holding the gem -between his forefinger and thumb; an overseer receives it from him, and -deposits it in a _gamella_ or bowl, suspended from the centre of the -structure, half full of water. In this vessel all the diamonds found -in the course of the day are placed, and at the close of the work are -taken out and delivered to the principal officer, who, after they have -been weighed, registers the particulars in a book kept for that purpose. - -When a negro is so fortunate as to find a diamond of the weight of an -_octavo_ (17-1/2 carats), much ceremony takes place; he is crowned with -a wreath of flowers and carried in procession to the administrator, who -gives him his freedom, by paying his owner for it. He also receives a -present of new clothes, and is permitted to work on his own account. -When a stone of eight or ten carats is found, the negro receives two -new shirts, a complete new suit, with a hat and a handsome knife. For -smaller stones of trivial amount proportionate premiums are given. -During my stay at Tejuco a stone of 16-1/2 carats was found: it was -pleasing to see the anxious desire manifested by the officers, that it -might prove heavy enough to entitle the poor negro to his freedom; and -when, on being delivered and weighed, it proved only a carat short of -the requisite weight, all seemed to sympathize in his disappointment. - -Many precautions are taken to prevent the negroes from embezzling -diamonds. Although they work in a bent position, and consequently -never know whether the overseers are watching them or not, yet it -is easy for them to omit gathering any which they see, and to place -them in a corner of the trough for the purpose of secreting them at -leisure hours, to prevent which they are frequently changed while the -operation is going on. A word of command being given by the overseers, -they instantly move into each other’s troughs, so that no opportunity -of collusion can take place. If a negro be suspected of having -swallowed a diamond, he is confined in a strong room until the fact -can be ascertained. Formerly the punishment inflicted on a negro for -smuggling diamonds was confiscation of his person to the state; but it -being thought too hard for the owner to suffer for the offence of his -servant, the penalty has been commuted for personal imprisonment and -chastisement. This is a much lighter punishment than that which their -owners or any white man would suffer for a similar offence. - -There is no particular regulation respecting the dress of the negroes: -they work in the clothes most suitable to the nature of their -employment, generally in a waistcoat and a pair of drawers, and not -naked, as some travellers have stated. Their hours of labor are from -a little before sunrise until sun-set, half an hour being allowed for -breakfast, and two hours at noon. While washing they change their -posture as often as they please, which is very necessary, as the work -requires them to place their feet on the edges of the trough, and to -stoop considerably. This posture is particularly prejudicial to young -growing negroes, as it renders them in-kneed. Four or five times during -the day they all rest, when snuff, of which they are very fond, is -given to them. - -The negroes are formed into working parties, called troops, containing -two hundred each, under the direction of an administrator and inferior -officers. Each troop has a clergyman and a surgeon to attend it. -With respect to the subsistence of the negroes, although the present -governor has in some degree improved it by allowing a daily portion of -fresh beef, which was not allowed by his predecessors, yet I am sorry -to observe that it is still poor and scanty: and in other respects -they are more hardly dealt with than those of any other establishment -which I visited: notwithstanding this, the owners are all anxious to -get their negroes into the service, doubtless from sinister motives, of -which more will be said hereafter. - -The officers are liberally paid, and live in a style of considerable -elegance, which a stranger would not be led to expect in so remote -a place. Our tables were daily covered with a profusion of excellent -viands, served up on fine Wedgewood ware, and the state of their -household generally corresponded with this essential part of it. They -were ever ready to assist me in my examination of the works, and freely -gave me all the necessary information respecting them. - -Having detailed the process of washing for diamonds, I proceed to a -general description of the situations in which they are found. The flat -pieces of ground on each side the river are equally rich throughout -their extent, and hence the officers are enabled to calculate the value -of an unworked place by comparison with the amount found on working -in the part adjoining. These known places are left in reserve, and -trial is made of more uncertain grounds. The following observation I -often heard from the Intendant: “That piece of ground” (speaking of an -unworked flat by the side of the river) “will yield me ten thousand -carats of diamonds whenever we shall be required to get them in the -regular course of working, or when, on any particular occasion, an -order from Government arrives, demanding an extraordinary and immediate -supply.” - -The substances accompanying diamonds, and considered good indications -of them, are bright bean-like iron ore, a slaty flint-like substance, -approaching Lydian-stone, of fine texture, black oxide of iron in -great quantities, rounded bits of blue quartz, yellow crystal, and -other materials entirely different from any thing known to be produced -in the adjacent mountains. Diamonds are by no means peculiar to the -beds of rivers or deep ravines; they have been found in cavities and -water-courses on the summits of the most lofty mountains. - -I had some conversation with the officers respecting the matrix of the -diamond, not a vestige of which could I trace. They informed me that -they often found diamonds cemented in pudding-stone, accompanied with -grains of gold, but that they always broke them out, as they could -not enter them in the treasury, or weigh them with matter adhering to -them. I obtained a mass of pudding-stone, apparently of very recent -formation, cemented by ferruginous matter enveloping grains of gold and -diamonds; likewise a few pounds of the _cascalho_ in its unwashed state. - -This river, and other streams in its vicinity, have been in washing -many years, and have produced great quantities of diamonds, which have -ever been reputed of the finest quality. They vary in size; some are so -small that four or five are required to weigh one grain, consequently -sixteen or twenty to the carat: there are seldom found more than two -or three stones of from seventeen to twenty carats in the course of a -year, and not once in two years is there found throughout the whole -washings a stone of thirty carats. During the few days I was here they -were not very successful; the whole quantity found amounted only to -forty, the largest of which was only four carats, and of a light green -color. - -From the great quantity of _debris_, or worked _cascalho_, in every -part near the river, it is reasonable to calculate that the works have -been in operation above forty years; of course there must arrive a -period at which they will be exhausted, but there are grounds in the -neighbourhood, particularly in the Cerro de St. Antonio, and in the -country now inhabited by the Indians, which will probably afford these -gems in equal abundance. - -After residing here five days, we visited a diamond work called -Monteiro, about two miles up the river, and went a league further to -a gold-work called Carrapato. The _cascalho_ at this work was taken -from a part of the river eight feet deep, which formed an eddy under -a projecting point; I was shewn a heap of it, that was estimated to -be worth £10,000. In removing this heap from its bed, four hundred -negroes had been employed three months; and to wash it, would occupy -one hundred men for three months more, the expense of both operations -amounting to perhaps £1,500. We arrived at this place at eight o’clock -in the morning; six negroes were employed four hours in washing two -troughs, containing together about a ton of _cascalho_, when, to -my great surprise, after the water ran clear, and the large stones -were thrown out, the black oxide of iron, of which there was great -abundance, was fringed with grains of gold, a novel and very agreeable -sight to a stranger. The gold was taken out at three or four different -times, and, when the washing was completed, was dried over a fire and -weighed: it amounted to nearly twenty ounces Troy. This is esteemed a -very rich place, and such circumstances are of rare occurrence. The -whole neighbourhood is sterile, presenting the same characteristics -as those before described. By proper cultivation the vallies might -be rendered very productive; but, as the troops of negroes and their -officers are continually changing, no agricultural establishments are -formed. - -This place probably derived its name from a most disagreeable insect, -which infests the low brushwood in the neighbourhood. It is like a -sheep-tick; and, on getting access to any part of the body, it fastens -imperceptibly, buries its head under the skin, and draws blood until -its body is swelled to the size of a bean. If forcibly removed, it -leaves a very deep disagreeable hole, which is frequently difficult to -heal. The best mode of getting rid of the animal is to anoint it with -either laudanum or oil, and suffer it to remain until it dies, when it -will drop off. - -In the afternoon we returned to Tejuco by another route more -mountainous than that by which we had come. Crossing a deep ravine, -formerly very rich in diamonds, we rode up a mountain full a mile on -the ascent, and passed several rivulets, which I was informed had -produced many fine stones. These, and in fact all the best situations -in the district, had been in the possession of the smugglers, and were -explored by those enterprising men. In the course of our journey, I -observed that whenever a traveller or a negro was seen by any of our -party at a distance from the road, a soldier was instantly dispatched -to bring him to the officers, before whom he underwent an examination. - -In the evening we arrived at Tejuco, where I was desirous of remaining -a week to recruit my strength. Dr. Camara ordered my baggage to his -house, whither I removed in compliance with his pressing invitation: -he was kind enough to give me his library as my private room; it was -extensive and very select, consisting chiefly of English authors on -science. Adjoining to it is a fine garden of nearly three acres in -extent, planted chiefly with grass. It was formerly a gold-washing, and -consequently presented a surface of only refuse stones; but the present -proprietor levelled it, brought a little soil from various parts, and -planted a peculiar variety of grass, which he keeps in cutting for his -mules. This was the commencement of the fruit season; the peaches, -with which the trees were loaded, were nearly ripe. The asparagus, and -vegetables of every description, were very fine. The climate appeared -to be mild and genial; the thermometer was generally at 62 degrees at -sunrise, and at mid-day, in a room rather exposed to the sun, rose to -74 degrees. - -Tejuco being situated in a sterile district, which produces nothing -for the maintenance of its inhabitants, in number about six thousand, -depends, for a supply of provisions, on farms situated several leagues -distant. The bread of the country was at this time extremely dear; -Indian corn, from which it is made, being from 5s. 6d. to 6s. the -bushel; beans and other pulse in proportion. Beef was very indifferent, -this being the dry season; pork and poultry were rather plentiful. -At no place do I recollect to have seen a greater proportion of -indigent people, particularly of females. Full a hundred and fifty -of these unhappy persons come weekly to receive portions of flour -which the governor was pleased to allow them. They are totally -without occupation, here being neither agriculture nor manufactures -to afford them any; yet both these main supports of the population -might be introduced, if a proper spirit of industry prevailed among -the inhabitants. The land would, with little trouble, yield excellent -crops, were any kind of inclosures made, which, it must be allowed, -is an undertaking attended with some difficulties, yet not of such -magnitude as to render it hopeless. With respect to manufactures, a -most valuable material is at hand, as cotton from Minas Novas, distant -only from sixty to one hundred miles, passes through this place to the -capital. - -Yet, notwithstanding the idleness of the inhabitants, Tejuco may be -called florishing, on account of the circulation of property created -by the diamond works. The annual sum paid by Government for the -hire of negroes, salaries of officers, and various necessaries, such -as nitre and iron, does not amount to less than £35,000, and this, -added to the demands of the inhabitants of the town and its vicinity, -occasions a considerable trade. The shops are stocked with English -cottons, baizes, and cloths, and other manufactured goods; also hams, -cheese, butter, porter, and other articles of consumption. Mules from -Bahia and Rio de Janeiro came loaded with them. Great complaints were -made among the shopkeepers of the bad quality of the cotton goods, -and of their losing their colors in washing. Some of the principal -inhabitants exclaimed against the introduction of foreign luxuries, and -rather wished that their trade with England should furnish them the -means of working their iron mines, and enable them to defend themselves. - -Tejuco, owing to its situation by the side of a hill, is very -irregularly built; its streets are uneven, but the houses in general -are well constructed and in good condition, compared with those of -other towns in the interior. Its name, which, in the Portuguese -language, signifies a muddy place, is derived from places of that -description in its neighbourhood, which are rendered passable by being -covered with large pieces of wood. - -Through the kind care and attention of Dr. Camara and his excellent -family, my health was in part re-established, and I was enabled to -ride out daily, occupying myself in seeing all I could, and gaining -the best information, in which I was assisted by my worthy host and -all his friends. Our evenings were passed in a most agreeable manner, -among the parties which regularly assembled at the Intendant’s house, -consisting of some of the principal inhabitants of the town. In these -parties the gentlemen engage at whist, and the ladies take tea and play -round games, or enter into conversation on the passing occurrences -of the day. In no part of Brazil did I meet with society so select -and agreeable; this may certainly be called the court of the mining -district. In their manners there was no ceremonious reserve or courtly -refinement, but their whole demeanour was genteel and well-bred, -enlivened by an ease and good humor which the affability of the -chief and his amiable lady and daughters ever tended to promote. The -company all dressed after the English mode, and in dresses of English -manufacture: the gentlemen were almost all men of title, distinguished -with stars, yet the _constellation_ which they formed, was far inferior -in brilliancy and elegance to that of the ladies. - -I was invited to pay a visit to the treasury, which can only be viewed -when a meeting of officers is called, as the treasure is kept in -chests, under three distinct locks, the keys of which are entrusted -to three several officers, who are all required to be present at the -opening. They here showed me the diamonds taken from the _tropeiro_ at -Conceição, which were in general much better than those from the mines -worked by Government. One about eleven carats was a very fine stone, -perfectly crystallized, in the form of an octahedron. The unfortunate -man from whom they were taken, I was informed, was very ill in prison. -I was then shown about eight hundred carats found in the regular course -of washing; they were in general very small, not one exceeding five -carats. I observed several round and many inferior ones colored. Those -with a dark green hue and rough exterior, were, they informed me, when -cut, of the purest water, and from Rio Pardo. - -Here the diamonds found in the district are deposited monthly, as they -are received from the different works. They are carefully weighed, and -some selected and kept separate. The average quantity obtained may be -estimated at from 20,000 to 25,000 carats annually, which are sent -under a military escort to Rio, and there lodged in the treasury. - -The diamonds are tied up in black silk bags, and deposited in elegant -inner cabinets, the whole of which are locked up in strong chests bound -with iron. - -They then showed me the gold, which was in large bars, weighing from -five to ten pounds each, the whole of which I estimated at full 150lbs. -weight. It was found in the district of Cerro do Frio, and was reserved -to pay part of the expenses attending the establishment. - -An excursion was some days afterwards proposed to another diamond work, -called Rio Pardo, distant about twenty miles in a north-west direction. -After proceeding a third of the way, over a country covered with a poor -wiry sort of grass, we passed several fine falls of water, and crossed -a ridge of mountains. The land as we advanced appeared much better, -though still very naked, having only a few poor crooked small trees, -that rather increased than took from its desolate appearance. - -We passed through Chapada, a little dirty village, once famous for -its washings, as were all the streams and ravines in the vicinity, -and proceeded over some good clay-land, and a considerable tract of -peat-moss, well watered by streams which burst in all directions from -the hills. The country was open, and had a most romantic appearance, -caused by a quantity of low rocks of soft pudding-stone, laminated, -which lay on the surface in the most irregular forms. These lands were -well calculated for pasturage, particularly in the season of abundance, -but I was told that the cattle put to graze upon them were frequently -stolen by the negroes[48], and that there were many noxious plants in -the herbage which proved fatal to the beasts that ate them. - -We arrived at the houses of the establishment about eleven in the -forenoon, and walked four miles farther to the diamond works, on -which a full troop of negroes was then employed. Rio Pardo is a dirty -paltry-looking rivulet, which runs into the Rio Velho: in some parts it -is confined by shelving rocks of quartz, through which it runs rapidly; -in others it takes a serpentine course, and forms eddies, which are -called _caldrones_, on account of their resemblance to the cavity of -a boiler. The bed of the river, though confined, has a stratum of -_cascalho_ of variable thickness, which, after the current has been -diverted, is dug up, and washed in the same way as at Jiquitinhonha. -The _caldrones_, or holes, formerly eddies, but now partly filled -with _cascalho_, so as to be no more than three or four feet deep, -are frequently found to contain many diamonds; one of them, which was -cleared by four men in as many days, produced one hundred and eighty -carats. - -Rio Pardo, though paltry and insignificant in its appearance, has -produced as large a quantity of the most precious gems as any river -in the district. The rough blueish-green-colored diamonds, formerly -so much esteemed by the Hollanders, continue to be found here, and -the stones of this rivulet are to this day reputed the most valuable -in Brazil. The accompanying substances are somewhat different from -those of the washings at Mandanga; here is no bean-like iron ore, but -a considerable quantity of flinty-slate, like Lydian-stone, in various -shapes and sizes, and very small black oxide of iron; the earthy matter -is also much finer than at the above place. I was informed that there -remained as much unworked ground as would occupy a hundred negroes full -twenty years. - -Rio Pardo runs about a league to the westward of Capella Velha, which -is a chapel on a mountain, washed at its base by a stream, called -Corgo de Capella Velha, which some years ago was worked, and produced -diamonds of great size and superior brilliancy. The rivulets to the -eastward of this ridge of mountains run into the Jiquitinhonha; those -to the westward have their course into the Rio Velho, which flows into -the Rio de San Francisco. The height of the mountains I had no means -of ascertaining, but they are considered as undoubtedly the highest in -Brazil. The air in this elevated region is pure and rather keen; the -thermometer in the mornings and evenings stood at 62, and at mid-day -about 74. In all the parts which I visited, the land appeared favorable -for the growth of almost every species of produce, and, if properly -inclosed and cultivated, might in no long time become the granary of -the district. - -On our return to Tejuco I was shown several dwarfish trees, of the -height and size of a common crab-tree, with extremely crooked branches; -and was informed that they were a species of the _quercus suber_. I cut -from them some pieces of bark about an inch in thickness, which were -elastic, and actually proved to be cork. It seemed to me a question of -considerable interest, whether these trees, if regularly planted and -attended to, might not produce cork of as good a quality as that which -we obtain from the Mediterranean. - -After resting a few days, I accompanied the Intendant to a small -diamond work, called Corolina, and returned the same day. This work -some years ago produced many good stones, but at present it employs -very few people. The mode of washing is exactly the same with that -practised at Mandanga. - -At Tejuco some tolerably good barley was shown to me; it was not so -heavy as that of our best from Norfolk, and was but little known. The -Intendant uses it as provender for his mules whenever he can obtain -it. On examining the sample, I could not but reflect that, if land -so ill-managed produced such barley, how much superior would be the -quality of the grain under good management. - -At a subsequent period of my visit, the Intendant, with whom -malt-liquor is a favorite beverage, expressed a desire to see some -of the barley converted into malt, in order to brew beer, and, after -repeated solicitations, I undertook to make the experiment. A quantity -was procured which I endeavoured to prepare in the best manner that -circumstances would allow. Having steeped it the requisite time, -I put it on a cold floor, and managed it as is customary in our -malt-houses; when it had germinated sufficiently, I dried it over a -slow fire; afterwards, having cleansed it from the combs by rubbing, -I crushed it, and finally mashed it. The infusion produced a tolerable -wort, which, however, I did not deem sufficiently good, as it wanted -saccharine matter: this deficiency I supplied by the admixture of a -small quantity of sugar. It was then boiled until it was judged of a -proper consistency, and a very pleasant bitter was added instead of -hops. The fermentation I endeavoured to promote with leaven, which had -been prepared a few days before, and, when that process had terminated, -the liquor was put into small casks, which we stopped close. Though -it might not prove good from the hasty manner in which the process -was conducted, yet the mode of preparing it was exemplified, which -was the main purpose of the experiment. It appeared to me by no means -impossible either to make malt or to brew beer, if proper places were -made under-ground, so as to ensure a moderate degree of cold for the -operation of malting, and for the subsequent process. Sugar is here -so abundant, that any quantity of saccharine matter might be added to -improve the poorness of the malt; and it is highly probable that a very -pleasant beverage might be made, which would relieve the inhabitants -of this remote district from the necessity of having recourse to the -metropolis for bad wines, and from the ill effects which proceed from -drinking bad spirits distilled in the vicinity. - -Many parts of this fine country abound in oranges, pines, peaches, -guavas, and a great variety of indigenous fruits, both sweet and acid, -particularly the _jaboticaba_, which is very rich in mucilaginous -matter; yet no attempt has hitherto been made to obtain wine from any -of them. Ginger and pepper grow here spontaneously, and many spices -might probably be cultivated with success. - -Grass for cattle was as dear at Tejuco as at Rio de Janeiro, and -the small quantity which cost eight-pence would scarcely suffice a -mule a day. The Intendant and the Captain of the cavalry had each of -them about two acres under cultivation, of a species called _Engorda -Cavallos_ (fattener of horses), which grew from five to seven feet -high, with a thick esculent stem, and long lancet-shaped leaves. It has -a large fibrous root, and is well-calculated for stony ground where -there is little earth; it even grew among rounded stones that had been -washed three years before[49]. - -The Intendant, who had a taste for rural economy, and more particularly -his lady, were very anxious to make their own butter and cheese, and -expressed a great desire to be instructed in the process as practised -in England, though milk was very scarce; and it was not without much -difficulty that, after sending a few miles, about three gallons were -collected. In the mean time such household utensils as were most fit -for the purpose, having been made ready, and others procured, very -excellent butter was produced, and afterwards a few cheeses were made, -which there was every reason to suppose would prove good. The lady -interested herself greatly in the experiment, not only performing part -of the operations, with the assistance of her daughter, but inviting -several of her friends in the town to see with what little trouble -the processes were performed, and distributing the products among -them[50]:—a rare example of industry! I am decidedly of opinion, -that, were the females of Brazil better educated, especially in -whatever relates to domestic economy, and were they accustomed to -see the concerns of a household conducted with regularity and order, -they would be better members of society; for I have ever observed in -them that inquisitive disposition and desire of information, which -may be called the first step to improvement. But what can be expected -from ill-educated females, reared from their infancy among negras, in -miserable houses, scarcely affording a shelter from the rain, or a -shade from the sun, and destitute of every ray of comfort! - -In 1815, some iron works were established at the Morro de Pilar, a -mountain rich in ore, about twenty-five leagues south of Tejuco, on the -road to Villa Rica. The _Observador Portuguese_, vol. xvii. p. 143, -contains an interesting account of the festivities which took place -when the first sample of iron was brought from thence to the capital of -the Diamond District. - - - - -CHAP. XIV. - - _Some Account of the Districts of Minas Novas and Paracatu.—Of the - large Diamond found in the River Abaiti._ - - -IT was my intention to have continued my journey to Minas Novas, and -from thence westward to Paracatu, and to have returned by Abaiti, -a place that has produced many large diamonds, though generally of -inferior quality. This design I was prevented from accomplishing by -illness, being attacked with a violent sciatic complaint, accompanied -with great debility in the right side, which obliged me to return as -soon as possible. While I remained at Tejuco, for the purpose of -regaining strength sufficient to encounter the fatigues of a journey -back to the capital, I employed myself in collecting information -respecting these districts from intelligent persons who resided there, -as well as from officers on the establishment. The following brief -description is the result of the communications with which they favored -me. - -The principal village in Minas Novas, called Tocaya, is thirty-five -leagues distant from Tejuco, in a north-easterly direction. The road -thither is parallel with the river Jiquitinhonha, which runs from two -to five leagues westward of it[51]. Numerous rivulets flow into it in -this direction, in some of which are found white topazes, more commonly -known here by the name of _minas novas_. They are pretty pellucid -pebbles, generally rounded, though sometimes they occur perfectly -crystallized, in the same form as the yellow topaz. Blue topazes -and _aqua-marinas_ are also found here; some of the former are of a -singular variety, being in one part blue, and in the other clear and -pellucid. This neighbourhood is also noted for producing the beautiful -Chrysoberyl, which is much esteemed by the higher orders of society in -Brazil, and in great request among the jewellers of Rio de Janeiro. -These gems rarely occur crystallized; they sell at considerable -prices in their rough state, and are much more valued in America than -in England, where, indeed, they are little known, or they would be -more highly appreciated, being, when polished, of great brilliancy and -exquisite beauty. - -To the westward of the river Jiquitinhonha, and opposite the village -of Bom Successo, is the Cerro of Santo Antonio, a place much famed -for diamonds, which are said to be of an indifferent quality. There -are, also, other parts, well known to many of the inhabitants of the -district as being rich in these treasures. - -The country is very fertile, and produces a great variety of the finest -woods for cabinet-works; also numerous fruits, and most exquisite -Vanilla, which grows spontaneously. The land, being less elevated[52] -than Cerro do Frio, is said to be much warmer, and is highly favorable -to the growth of sugar and coffee. The plantations are chiefly of -cotton, which is reputed to be equal in color and quality to that -of Maranham. It is transported to Rio de Janeiro on mules, and many -hundreds of those useful animals are continually employed in this -commerce. A troop of loaded mules are full three months, and sometimes -four, in going, and the same time in returning. These animals in this -district are double the price that they are in S. Paulo. The journeys -are attended with considerable expense and difficulty; Indian corn must -be daily bought for their use; and, notwithstanding the great attention -paid to them on the road, many die, and others are frequently lamed and -disabled. Their burdens are divided into two equal parts, and suspended -on a pack-saddle of peculiar make by straps of raw hide. The average -burden is nine _arrobas_, nearly equal to three hundred pounds weight, -the carriage-expense of which, from Rio de Janeiro to Minas Novas, is -six or seven pounds sterling; to Tejuco five pounds; to Villa Rica -about three. - -The trade to Minas Novas from Rio de Janeiro consists principally in -negroes, iron, salt, woollens, hats, printed cottons, hardware, arms, -and some fancy articles, a little wine and oil, salt-fish, and butter. -Few luxuries enter these remote parts, the inhabitants seeking for -little beyond mere necessaries. - -Minas Novas is under the jurisdiction of the _Ouvidor_ of Villa do -Principe, who goes thither once a year to settle disputes, administer -justice, and discharge other duties belonging to his office. - -At Tocaya the Jiquitinhonha flows into a larger river, called Rio -Grande, which, taking an easterly direction, enters the sea in -lat. 16° 20´ south, near Porto Seguro. A gentleman with whom I was -acquainted undertook to navigate this fine river from Tocaya to the -sea, and, as the current was rapid, he performed the task in six -days. On his return, which occupied fifteen days, he observed several -tributary rivers, the sources of which are unknown, as they rise in the -country inhabited by the Indians. The river being free from falls, may -in a short time be frequented by vessels from sea, for I did not learn -that its entrance was shallow or unfit for navigation; probably the -land about it is low and marshy, which may be the reason that it is so -little known. - -It cannot be too much recommended to the Government of Brazil, -immediately to order a survey of this river, which might be performed -in one of their launches in two months at little or no expense, and, -were it found necessary, a chain of connection might be established -from its mouth to Tocaya. The benefits resulting to the inhabitants -from opening the navigation may be easily conceived. The produce of the -country, its cotton, coffee, and sugar, its rich cabinet-woods, and -many other valuable articles, would be brought into active commerce; -extensive plantations would be established, and the whole territory -would be improved. It is true that the commerce of the district would -flow through another channel, and the tolls paid on passing the -Paraibuna, to and from the capital, would be a little diminished: but -surely the policy of Government is not so confined as to allow that -consideration to have any weight against a measure of such national -importance, when it is obvious that one of the greatest disadvantages -under which the empire of Brazil labors, is the want of traffic on all -its rivers, except to Rio Grande de St. Pedro. - -The population of Minas Novas is thin, compared with its extent, but is -daily increasing. It does not appear that mining is the object which -attracts settlers, though there is a considerable quantity of precious -stones exported, which are found only here, as has been before observed. - -Where the rivers are deep it is very difficult to raise the _cascalho_ -from their beds, in order to wash it for gold, &c. for this purpose -various trivial and ineffectual methods are practised: it would be -highly conducive to the interest of the proprietor, as well as of the -state, to have rafts or boats constructed, and to adopt the machinery -used by the ballast-heavers on the river Thames[53], by means of which -the _cascalho_ might be raised, even from a depth of twenty feet. -The requisite iron-work might be prepared in Rio de Janeiro, (if -necessary,) and admitted into the mining country, free of duty: there -would probably be such an increase of gold obtained by it, that the -proportionate augmentation of the royal fifths would amply repay the -expense of introducing the improvement. - -Paracatu is the principal village or town of a district of the same -name, which lies about ninety leagues north-west of Tejuco, bordering -on the _Capitania_ of Goyazes, from which it is separated by a chain -of high mountains that take a northerly direction. The numerous rivers -which rise on the eastern side of the mountains, and flow into the -great river S. Francisco, are rich in gold. The population of the -village is estimated at above a thousand souls, and will shortly be -more numerous, as the reputed richness of some late discoveries has -tempted many families to migrate thither. It has all the advantages of -a high and healthy situation, in the midst of a most fertile country, -and has considerable intercourse with Sabará and Villa Rica, where the -gold procured in its vicinity is permuted. It is governed by a _Capitao -Mor_, who is subordinate to the governor of the latter place, to whom -all disputes of consequence are referred. To the southward is the rich -_destacamento_ of Rio da Prata, a river that yields fine diamonds, and -has been much frequented by many adventurers, who, when discovered and -seized, are called _grimpeiros_ (smugglers). A strong guard of soldiers -is stationed here to prevent the precious stones from being sought for -clandestinely. - -A few leagues to the north of the Rio Prata is the rivulet named -Abaité, celebrated for having produced the largest diamond in the -Prince’s possession, which was found about twelve years ago. Though -this circumstance has been already briefly stated, it may be allowed -me in this place to relate the particulars as they were detailed -to me during my stay at Tejuco. Three intelligent men, having been -found guilty of high crimes, were banished into the interior, and -ordered not to approach any of the capital towns, or to remain in -civilized society, on pain of perpetual imprisonment. Driven by this -hard sentence into the most unfrequented part of the country, they -endeavoured to explore new mines or new productions, in the hope -that, sooner or later, they might have the good fortune to make some -important discovery, which would obtain a reversal of their sentence, -and enable them to regain their station in society. They wandered -about in this neighbourhood, making frequent searches in its various -rivers for more than six years, during which time they were exposed -to a double risk, being continually liable to become the prey of the -Anthropophagi, and in no less danger of being seized by the soldiers -of Government. At length they by hazard made some trials in the river -Abaité, at a time when its waters were so low, in consequence of a -long season of drought, that a part of its bed was left exposed. Here, -while searching and washing for gold, they had the good fortune to -find a diamond nearly an ounce in weight. Elated by this providential -discovery, which at first they could scarcely believe to be real, yet, -hesitating between a dread of the rigorous laws relating to diamonds, -and a hope of regaining their liberty, they consulted a clergyman, who -advised them to trust to the mercy of the state, and accompanied them -to Villa Rica, where he procured them access to the governor. They -threw themselves at his feet, and delivered to him the invaluable gem -on which their hopes rested, relating all the circumstances connected -with it. The governor, astonished at its magnitude, could not trust the -evidence of his senses, but called the officers of the establishment -to decide whether it was a diamond, who set the matter beyond all -doubt. Being thus, by the most strange and unforeseen accident, put in -possession of the largest diamond ever found in America, he thought -proper to suspend the sentence of the men as a reward for their having -delivered it to him. The gem was sent to Rio de Janeiro, from whence -a frigate was dispatched with it to Lisbon, whither the holy father -was also sent to make the proper representations respecting it. The -sovereign confirmed the pardon of the delinquents, and bestowed some -preferment on the worthy sacerdote. - -The governor immediately ordered a guard on the river, which was -soon afterwards worked under the direction of the Intendant of Cerro -do Frio, who sent thither an administrator and two hundred negroes. -It has since been worked at different periods with various success; -sometimes large diamonds have been found, but of an indifferent -quality. The work, being considered unprofitable, is now abandoned by -Government, but it yet gives occupation to numbers of adventurers. Its -neighbourhood has many interesting places, hitherto but little explored. - -A few leagues from this river is a very rich vein of lead ore in -calcareous spar. I have seen pieces of it of the weight of twenty -pounds, and it is said to be so abundant, that any quantity may be -obtained. Some of the specimens presented to me were covered with -carbonate of lead. It has not the appearance of being rich in silver. -No one has undertaken to work it, as the difficulty and expense of -conveying the metal to Rio de Janeiro, would exceed the price at which -it would sell for at present in that market[54]. When the neighbourhood -becomes more populous, and the value of this useful metal is better -known, the mine will probably be a source of riches; for lead ore is -certainly scarce in Brazil, nor did I hear of any other place which -produces it. - -The river St. Francisco is very considerable, and is said to contain -great quantities of fish[55], which is a sufficient proof that there -are but few (if any) gold-washings in it. On the banks, and in the -country to the eastward, great numbers of cattle are bred, which are -sold in all the populous towns of the captaincy, and large herds are -sent to Rio de Janeiro, a distance of above six hundred miles. A -considerable commerce is carried on with them, and some families, who -raise large numbers, are reported to have acquired great fortunes by -it. The want of salt is a very general complaint; it is requisite for -the cattle, nor will they breed well without it. - -This district is too far distant from a sea-port to enjoy any extent -of commerce in the general articles of its produce. Gold and precious -stones are easily transported, but lead, and other commodities of -greater bulk and inferior value, would scarcely pay the expense of -carriage. Hence no cotton, coffee, or sugar is grown for exportation, -and the quantity consumed in the district is very limited, owing to -the small number of the inhabitants, and the miserable indigence in -which they generally live, their common diet being Indian corn-flour, -boiled beans, and a little pork. The trade to Rio de Janeiro is much -similar to that of Minas Novas, and consists chiefly in iron, salt, -cotton-prints, woollens, arms, hardware, and a few trivial luxuries: -also hats and India goods. Persons of all ranks are eager to purchase -negroes. The only articles sent to Villa Rica are gold-dust and hides. - -In this district, and in other parts of these immense territories, -particularly to the eastward, are large tracts of land _devoluto_, or -not occupied by any person under a grant from government. These lands -to a considerable extent (half a league to a league square) may be -taken by making proper application, and afterwards held as freehold. -Other excellent situations are in the possession of indigent people, -who are equally incapable and unwilling to reap advantage from them. -These may be bought very cheap, and are certainly preferable to the -unoccupied tracts, as they have generally some few conveniences -attached to them, and may, therefore, more easily be brought into a -proper state of cultivation. Here is every inducement for a spirited -and experienced agriculturist to settle: a rich and fertile district, -in which there remains much to be discovered in every department, where -all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life are produced -almost spontaneously; and where the exertions of industry would be -rewarded in a tenfold degree by the bounteous hand of nature, and -stimulated by the certain hope of arousing a slender population to -follow the example. Nor could there be any objection on the score of -differences in opinion; for I am persuaded that no one would here be -molested for his religious tenets, while he prudently avoided giving -offence, and paid the same regard to the conscience of his neighbour -which he expected for his own. - - - - -CHAP. XV. - -_Observations on Tejuco and Cerro do Frio_. - - -IN the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to present to the reader -a narrative of whatever I observed worthy of note in the Diamond -District, and have related the several particulars in the order in -which they occurred to me, reserving the task of general description -for that period of my residence there when I might be supposed best -qualified to perform it. This mode of proceeding will expose me to -the risk of a few repetitions, for which my apology must rest on the -peculiar circumstances under which I visited Tejuco,—on the continual -journeys in which I was occupied from the moment of my arrival to the -time when I was attacked by illness, and which left me no leisure for -combining my actual observations with general views of the country. - -The district of Cerro do Frio consists of rugged mountains, that have -a northerly and southerly direction, and are generally allowed to be -the highest in Brazil. What is termed the Diamond ground, extends -about sixteen leagues from north to south, and about eight from east -to west. It was first explored by some enterprising miners from Villa -do Principe, a few years after the establishment of that town. These -men proceeding northerly found an open country, watered by many small -rivulets, which they tried for gold by washing: some of them engaged -their attention for a short time, but not proving sufficiently rich, -they continued their route, passing the places now called San Gonçalo -and Milho Verde, until they arrived at a few streams that flow from the -base of the mountain on which Tejuco is built. These rivulets were then -washed for gold, and were considered as belonging to the district of -Villa do Principe. No idea was at first entertained that the rivulets -contained diamonds, although it is said that some were collected and -presented to the then governor of Villa do Principe as curious bright -stones, and were used by him as counters at cards. Soon afterwards a -few of them found their way to Lisbon, and were given as pretty pebbles -to the Dutch minister to send to Holland, which was then the principal -mart in Europe for precious stones. The lapidaries, to whom they were -presented for examination, pronounced these pebbles to be very fine -diamonds. Information was accordingly sent to the Dutch consul at -Lisbon, who did not fail to profit by the occasion; for he managed the -affair with Government so well, that he contracted for the precious -stones, at the same time that he communicated the intelligence. -Government afterwards endeavoured to monopolize the diamonds, and made -a distinct district of Cerro do Frio, placing it under peculiar laws -and regulations. - -The number of diamonds sent over during the first twenty years after -the discovery is said to be almost incredible, and to exceed one -thousand ounces in weight. This supply could not fail to diminish the -general value of diamonds, as none had ever before been known to come -from any other part of the globe, except India, whither the Brazilian -diamonds were afterwards sent, and found a better market there than in -Europe. - -By stratagems and intrigues Government was prevailed on to let these -invaluable territories to a company, who were under stipulations to -work with a limited number of negroes, or to pay a certain sum per -day for every negro employed. This opened a door to every species of -fraud; double the stipulated number of negroes was admitted; and this -imposition was connived at by the agents of Government, who received -pay in one hand and bribes in the other. Presents were made to men -possessing influence at court, by the contractors, who soon became -rich; and they continued (subject to a few regulations) in possession -of the diamond mines until about the year 1772, when, Government -determining to take them into their own hands, these contracts were -ended. - -This was the time for reforming abuses, and for placing this rich -district under the best regulations, but it was neglected; prejudice -prevailed over prudence; and the management was entrusted to men -who did not understand the real interests of the concern, or, what -is more probable, who were so shackled in their authority, that -they could not pursue them. From this time, affairs became worse, -and the establishment was in debt to foreigners, who had advanced a -considerable sum of money on the security of having all the diamonds -which the mines produced. There were other incumbrances, which can be -removed only by a total change of system. In its present state the -establishment appears to produce much greater wealth than it actually -does. During a period of five years, from 1801 to 1806 inclusive, -the expenses were £204,000; and the diamonds sent to the treasury at -Rio de Janeiro weighed 115,675 carats. The value of gold found in -the same period amounted to £17,300 sterling, from which it appears -that the diamonds actually cost Government thirty-three shillings and -nine-pence per carat. These years were esteemed singularly productive; -the mines do not in general yield to Government more than 20,000 carats -annually[56]. - -The town is under the absolute government of the Intendant. The -principal officers of the civil and military establishments are, an -_ouvidor_ or _fiscal_, a captain of cavalry, and a _capitao mor_. In -the Diamond establishment there is a great number of officers, of -whom the following are the principal: 1st, the Intendant, who is a -judge, and intendant-general of the Diamond district (this office -is one of the best in the gift of the crown): 2d. the Treasurer, -whose situation is almost a sinecure; he receives 8,000 crusades _per -annum_: and 3d. the Administrator-general, who has a salary of 6000. -The book-keeper has 4,000; and three clerks, or key-keepers, have from -800 to 1,000 each. These officers are employed in whatever relates to -the treasury, or to the general concerns of the establishment; they -all reside in Tejuco, and are the most respectable of the inhabitants. -The management of the different works is entrusted to eight or ten -under-administrators, each having in his care two hundred negroes, -called a troop; to which, besides a clergyman and a surgeon, are -attached several overseers and subordinate officers, who have salaries -of from 400 to 200 crusades. The privilege of employing a certain -number of negroes in the works is common to all the officers, to an -extent corresponding with their rank; the superior officers let to hire -as many as they please, say forty, and sometimes upwards of fifty; the -inferior officers are permitted to let out two or three, in preference -to other individuals; a decidedly bad practice, as will be shown -hereafter. - -The Intendant holds a place of great trust: he is the superior -magistrate, and his duty is to administer justice, and to see that -the laws peculiar to the district are duly executed. He is of course -president of the assembly, or juncta, and calls meetings whenever he -thinks proper; he disposes of the military force of the district, -orders roads to be made or stopped, and stations guards on them to -examine travellers, and to detain suspicious persons. He has also -the privilege of giving or refusing permission for persons to enter -the district, or settle in it; and every one, however high in rank -and property, who passes thither is supposed to have the Intendant’s -express concurrence, which, as a matter of form, is sometimes dispensed -with. He appoints officers, signs all papers, receives all reports -that are made, and acts accordingly. To him solely the treasury is -entrusted for the payment of the salaries of the officers, the negroes’ -wages, tradesmen’s bills, and every incidental expense attending the -establishment. He issues paper-money, and withdraws it from circulation -whenever he thinks proper; for all which he is responsible to -Government alone, and may be said to be almost absolute in his office. - -In addition to these important functions, the present Intendant has -assumed the whole direction and regulation of the mining concern, which -none of his predecessors ever practically interfered with, it being the -peculiar province of the Administrator-general. For this undertaking -he is equally qualified by the superiority of his talents, and by the -extent of his acquirements: he studied mineralogy many years under -the celebrated Werner, by whom he was considered as one of his most -enlightened disciples; afterwards he travelled through Hungary, and -all the most interesting German states; and, lastly, made the tour of -England and Scotland, where he resided two years. - -The Administrator-general, to whom belong the management and direction -of the works, ought to be equally experienced in mining and mechanics, -particularly in hydraulics: he should be a man of general information, -combined with great practical knowledge, relative to the locality of -the district, so as to be able to ascertain the real value of every -situation, and to direct the operations accordingly. He should have a -mind fertile in resources, and prepared to meet every disappointment -or casualty that can possibly occur, that the time of the negroes may -not be employed in vain; he should also facilitate their labors by the -introduction of machinery, and should be particularly attentive to -their good treatment, since on them his success, and consequently his -reputation, must in a great measure depend. - -On this latter point humanity and policy ought alike to direct the -attention of the superiors of the establishment. It is natural to -suppose that negroes, when treated with harshness, ill fed and ill -clothed, will be indifferent to the interests of their employers, and, -perhaps, determined not to find diamonds, whereas, when subjected -to milder and kinder usage, which might be done without relaxing in -vigilance, they would become anxious to please, and would search more -diligently in order to obtain notice and reward. It must be obvious -that negroes rarely conceal diamonds for _themselves_; and yet custom -has rendered the feelings of their real owners in Tejuco so irritable, -on being suspected to encourage the practice, that if the word -_grimpeiro_ (smuggler) is mentioned in conversation, they shudder with -horror and distort their features, calling on the Virgin to witness -their abhorrence of a crime to which Government has attached the -greatest disgraces and punishments. - -Pure, honest souls! Being a stranger in the country, I conceived -that these gentlemen really felt the sentiments which their words -and gestures expressed; and, as persons of all ranks seemed to fear -conversing on the subject, I thought at first that I should not see -a single diamond in all Tejuco, except those in the treasury; but -a little acquaintance with the town soon convinced me that I was a -novice; for, on visiting a few friends to whom I had introductions, I -found that diamonds were bartered for every thing, and were actually -much more current than specie. Even pious indulgencies were bought -with them; and surely no one could have suspected that the seller of -His Holiness’s bulls would condescend to taste the forbidden fruits of -Tejuco. - -As I had the honor to reside at the house of the Intendant, I was -considered by the people of the town as a person connected with -Government, and therefore as one who ought not to be informed of the -secret traffic among them; hence, when in company with the officers -of the establishment, whenever the word _grimpeiro_ was mentioned, -I found it necessary to manifest the same feelings of disgust which -they did; and, on expressing my surprise that any one could so far -degrade himself as to be guilty of the crime of smuggling diamonds, -it was tacitly agreed that no white man could stoop to such dishonor. -The point was soon settled; for I found it best not to oppose general -opinions, nor to enter too minutely on delicate subjects; and it was -sometimes expedient for me to seem regardless of what I was most -steadfastly looking at. - -In Tejuco there are about nine or ten principal shopkeepers, to whom -the establishment itself, and the officers belonging to it, are -frequently indebted; indeed, these men receive the greater part of the -money due to the various persons employed in the works, in exchange -chiefly for English commodities of one description or other. The -establishment is paid once a year, and for this purpose a sum not less -than 300,000 crusades is sent from Villa Rica, to which may be added -60,000 or 100,000 more, found in the gold mines of the district. The -greater part of this money flowing into the hands of the shopkeepers, -as above stated, is immediately employed in a way injurious to the -interests of Government; nor can worse policy be imagined than that -of allowing so large an expenditure in a place which offers such -temptations. - -Some years ago many gold-mines were washed in this district, but as -information was given that diamonds were found in them, they were -ordered to be abandoned. At present more equitable measures are -adopted, and the proprietors are commencing to work some of them again, -under an agreement to give up whatever diamonds they find.[57] - -There is a general order to work all the gold-mines which were formerly -confiscated, and this measure will, it is hoped, increase the quantity -of gold, and have a good effect in every respect. - -If Government are obliged to hire negroes wherever they can obtain -them, (which appears to be the case), it would be at least expedient to -have a store to supply them, in order that the money paid in wages to -them might return into the funds of the establishment. - -The hiring of negroes to the diamond works is the favorite occupation -of all ranks in Tejuco; rich and poor endeavour to engage in it to as -great an extent as their property will allow. The pay of the slaves -is trifling compared with the risk, their labor being heavy, their -maintenance poor, and their treatment harsh; there must, therefore, -be some temptation not openly seen, yet as well known as light from -darkness. Numbers of persons are thus induced to reside in Tejuco -under various pretexts, but with no other real view than to get their -negroes into the service, and to live idly on their wages, and on what -they conceal or pick up. Thus all fatten upon the pasture, except -those in the extreme of indigence, and others who, from the neglect of -economy, are always poor. There are a numerous class, from the age of -seven years to upwards of twenty, who are without any visible means of -earning their subsistence, and would remain idle even if manufactories -were established; for though they are brought up from their infancy -with negro-children, yet in the working department they would abandon -their former play-fellows. The people in general are rendered more -averse from habits of regular industry by the continual hopes which -they indulge of becoming opulent by some fortunate discovery of mines; -these fallacious ideas, which they instil into the minds of their -children, strongly prejudice them against labor, though they all exist -miserably, and not unfrequently depend upon donations. Their education -is extremely limited: they are in general total strangers to the -sciences, and are very scantily informed on any useful subject. - -As the object of my journey into this district was to examine into the -real state of affairs, and to give a true report of them on my return, -for which purpose I was furnished with many privileges never allowed -to any person before, and was thus enabled to see all that I desired, -humanity requires that I should make some observations on the fate of -those unfortunate persons who have been tempted to smuggle diamonds, -and have been caught in the act. I even mentioned the subject to His -Excellency, the minister, on my return to Rio de Janeiro; but as his -occupations were great, and the state of my health required me to leave -the country immediately, nothing more was said of it. - -The great demand for these precious articles, and the facility of -secreting them, have caused them to be searched for and carried away -in violation of the existing laws of the country. Of the numbers who -have engaged in this illicit traffic, from an eager desire to become -rich at once, many have eluded the vigilance of the guards, and have -finished their career with credit and opulence; others less fortunate -have been detected, and have incurred the punishment annexed to the -offence, namely, the surrender of their illegally acquired treasure, -the confiscation of their whole property, and exile to Africa, or -confinement, perhaps for life, in a loathsome prison. Mild as are -the criminal laws of Brazil, the latter part of this sentence is an -exception at which human nature shudders. Surely, when a poor wretch, -who has been tempted to this offence, has atoned for it by the loss of -all he possessed, he has suffered sufficiently without being subjected -to the forfeiture of personal liberty, and to all the woes incident to -hopeless captivity. Far be it from me to countenance any infringement -on the laws which have been established for the protection of property, -either public or private; to respect the institutions of whatever -nation I may live in, I hope I shall always be among the first, and to -encourage others to disregard them, the very last; for illicit trade -of every description is a deceitful and dangerous pursuit, the sweets -of which are ever attended with a counteracting portion of evils. The -object of my reasoning is to shew that these degraded persons have been -of service to the state, and may still be rendered useful to it. May -it be permitted me to enquire who were the discoverers of perhaps all -the diamond mines which have enriched the caskets of the royal family -of Portugal beyond comparison with those of any other state, and which -have not only augmented the revenues of the government, but have proved -the source from which many respectable and enterprising individuals -have derived their opulence? Adventurers, who, at great risk and with -indefatigable toil, have penetrated unknown forests, and explored deep -ravines among the haunts of the savage Anthropophagi, in search of -gold-mines, and in them have by chance found diamonds. When a place -of this description has been once discovered by these men, it seldom -remains long secret; the agents of Government take possession of it, -and either work it immediately, or guard it until a future occasion. -The discoverer of course flies from the place; and if he have picked -up a few stones, or robbed the earth of some of its most brilliant -rarities, he will seek the best and safest means of procuring value for -them. If he be a man of sufficient property, he will hire a few mules, -load them with cotton, bacon, and other commodities, and proceed to -Rio de Janeiro in regular form. On his arrival there, he enters some -good house in which he has confidence, and disposes of his concealed -treasure. His mind is then relieved from apprehension, and he begins -to make preparations for his return. His first care is to lay out his -money to the best advantage; negroes are his chief object, and these -pay a duty to the state on their leaving Angola, and another of ten -_milreis_ each on entering the mining country. If they be employed -in mining, Government obtains a fifth of the gold found, and if in -agriculture, a tenth of the produce is exacted. The next object of -the adventurer is to lay in a stock of woollens, and other English -manufactures, which pay a duty of fifteen _per cent._ on being landed, -and are subject to another, according to their weight, on entering -the territory of the mines. Thus it really appears that most of the -contraband property is divided between the state and the smuggler: but -this is not all; the diamonds are sent out of the country, and real -effects of value are received in return, leaving a balance entirely in -favor of Brazil. - -This illicit trade has been carried on to a very considerable extent: -there is a strong presumptive authority for stating that, since the -first discovery of the mines, diamonds to the amount of two millions -sterling have thus found their way to Europe, exclusive of what the -contractors accounted for. This has been owing to the ill management -of the whole establishment, and to the total want of necessary -regulations, which have prevailed so long, that it will not be easy to -apply a remedy. Let us suppose for a moment the system to be changed; -the two thousand negroes employed in the establishment to be the -property of the crown (whom two years’ profit of the diamond mines -would be adequate to purchase); these negroes to be supplied with every -article for their support from a general store, and to be treated -as mildly as possible; they would then form a society, and, knowing -no other masters than their officers, would have only one common -interest to serve. The contraband trade by this means, though perhaps -not totally destroyed, would receive an irrecoverable blow, and would -be reduced almost to nothing. Should such a change take place, the -shopkeepers, and those persons who subsist by hiring negroes to the -works, would find the source of their emoluments dried up, and, rather -than remain at Tejuco, would migrate to situations more congenial -to their interests: thus the district would be freed from that bane -which has so long overrun it, and Government would reap the advantage -of having the mines worked by their own negroes, whom it would be -difficult for others to seduce. - -Another evil which such a change of system would be calculated to -remove, is the following:—Every article of sustenance required for -the establishment is purchased of farmers who reside a few leagues -from Tejuco, or who have farms at a greater distance; and this absurd -practice is the cause of much unnecessary intercourse. There are -thousands of acres of excellent land in the vicinity of the diamond -works, having choice of situation, and fit for the growth of every -species of produce. How well might a part of the force above-mentioned -be occasionally spared for a few days only, to be employed in the -first operations of husbandry, which would be, to inclose a sufficient -quantity of ground in various parts for the maintenance of the -establishment. A certain number of negroes would be allotted, in -proportion to the land under cultivation, and on particular occasions, -as in harvest, an auxiliary force would be always at hand. This would -be farming with double advantage; the plough would work instead of the -hoe; after-crops would be sown to be eaten off the ground, which would -thus be enriched and kept in good condition. Numbers of acres would be -planted with artificial grass, subject to irrigation where that was -practicable, and thus, contrary to the general practice, the cattle -would be provided with subsistence in the dry season. Indian corn, -wheat, mandioca, feijones, potatoes, &c. would be cultivated, and, -under proper management, would yield crops equal to the most sanguine -expectation. Storehouses, with requisite conveniences, would soon be -erected, in which the grain might be kept without spoiling. Thus would -the first principles of husbandry be introduced into the district, and -prove a source of more lasting benefit to the state than mines either -of gold or diamonds, for when the latter were exhausted there would -remain an active and industrious population. It seems, indeed, to have -been the purpose of nature, in distributing these precious substances -in these remote and almost unknown parts, to allure civilized men to -settle upon them. - -From the circumstances which have been already explained, it will -appear that, under the present system, the Government pay for all -the diamonds that are found here, and probably receive little more -than one-half; therefore it is evident that those conveyed through -other channels can be sold to the public at a lower price than that -at which the former are obtained. But the embarrassed state of the -establishment is such, that the managers cannot lessen their expenses, -being obliged to take credit for every article, and to hire almost any -negroes that are offered. These evils have taken too deep root to be -eradicated, even by the abilities of the present Intendant: had such a -man been placed here forty years ago, empowered to act without control, -and to govern the district as private property, on the principles above -stated, he might have rendered it a province both rich and independent. - -As all the diamonds found in these works belong to the crown, the -royal family have been accustomed to select from the quantity annually -remitted whatever stones they considered worthy their notice, -which were generally those exceeding seventeen carats. They were -formerly sent to Holland to be cut, the Dutch being the contractors -of the diamonds, from the first discovery of the mines; but since -the emigration of the court to Rio de Janeiro, that trade has been -transferred to England, where these precious stones annually arrive, -and are sold by private contract. - -The collection of diamonds now in the possession of the Prince Regent -is unequalled in number, size, and quality, by that of any potentate -in the world; and I am credibly informed that it exceeds in estimated -value three millions sterling. - -This district has a direct communication with Bahia, and a few troops -of mules are continually employed in going from one place to the -other. The journey is much longer than to Rio de Janeiro, but the -country is less mountainous; there are fewer _ranchos_ or hovels on -the road, and in one part it is requisite to carry fresh water for two -days’ consumption. The commodities sent from Tejuco to Minas Novas -are very trivial, consisting of smuggled gold, chrysoberyls, topazes, -amethysts, and other stones; in return for which are brought English -fine manufactured goods, particularly hats, printed cottons, stockings, -and saddles, which have been much cheaper in Bahia than in England. -Coarser articles are generally sent from Rio de Janeiro, the distance -being, as before observed, much shorter. - -Of navigable rivers we can say but little. The many small streams, -that rise in various parts, join and form the Jiquitinhonha, which, -as before observed, may be navigated to sea, without any impediment, -in at most ten days’ time. How much would the country be benefited if -a port were established at the entrance of this river, and vessels -were allowed to load and unload; canoes would find their way from -thence into the interior in the short space of twenty days, loaded -with every article necessary for the consumption of the district. How -superior would this mode of conveyance be to that of making roads -through impervious woods, and over almost impassable mountains. How -many thousands of crusades annually expended on mules would be thus -saved to the public, and what numbers of men would thus be trained for -the service of the marine, instead of those now employed as muleteers. -With the advantage of such a communication, Minas Novas and Cerro do -Frio would soon more than double their population, and it might be -anticipated that the banks of these fine rivers, now lying deserted -and useless, would bloom with every variety of vegetation, which this -genial climate is capable of producing. - -Under the present system Tejuco ought to maintain itself, and have the -least possible intercourse with other places. Its commerce ought to -be confined wholly to gold and precious stones; but should Government -determine to make diamonds a free trade, then a contrary policy would -be requisite. On this subject I shall, in the sequel, have some -observations to make. - -The quadrupeds of Cerro do Frio are common to other parts of Brazil. -Mules are the principal beasts of burthen, and are much dearer than -in the districts more to the southward. Horses are not so numerous, -but cheaper, being in very little request, and used only on journeys -of pleasure. Horned cattle are bred at a considerable distance, and -brought for the consumption of the place. Sheep are almost unknown; -hogs and goats are more plentiful; of dogs there are but few, and the -race is very indifferent. Ounces are very seldom seen; there are not -many deer; the danta, or tapir, is not uncommon. - -Of birds there are a few varieties, but in no great numbers; -partridges are rather common; we shot several in our way to the -different mines, which proved good eating. Domestic fowls are in -tolerable plenty, but by no means cheap, being eighteen-pence to two -shillings each. - -Of serpents, I saw only one, and it was harmless: but I was informed -that the rattle-snake and the _jararaca_, both equally venomous, are -common in this district. Lizards are very numerous, and the _cayman_, -or alligator, is found in most of the lagoons and rivers. - -Fish are extremely scarce in all the streams, owing to the quantity -of matter with which their waters are impregnated from the numerous -washings. - -This district is in general free from that troublesome plague, the -mosquito, as that insect is peculiar to low and swampy places, and does -not bite with such disagreeable effect in elevated and airy situations. -Bees are but little attended to, and are scarcely known; were the -management of them better understood and practised by the inhabitants, -they might be much increased, and wax might even be exported. - -In closing my observations on this district, I may be permitted to add -some particulars relative to the capital. The families whom I had the -honor to visit appeared to live in great sociability. They frequently -form tea-parties. The dress of the ladies consists almost entirely of -articles of English manufacture, cotton-prints, straw hats, artificial -flowers, jewelry, &c. Owing to the distance of Tejuco from a sea-port, -piano-fortes have not been introduced here, or they would probably be -in considerable demand; for the ladies in general have a taste for -music, and touch the guitar with great spirit and elegance. Dancing is -a favorite amusement, and all appear much pleased and animated with the -English country-dance. The ladies seldom go abroad, except to mass, -and then they are usually carried in a chair hung with curtains and -a canopy, and suspended from a pole borne by two men. The sedentary -habits of the females I have often thought injurious to their health; -but, since English saddles have been introduced, they begin to take -airings on horseback. - -Warm baths are very generally used, being considered of great efficacy -in removing recent colds, to which all persons here are liable, on -account of the peculiar nature of the climate. They are invariably -offered at night to travellers, as a means of relieving the pains -occasioned by the fatigues of the day. - -A continuance of ill health obliged me to take leave of my friends in -Tejuco, and to return to Rio de Janeiro with all possible expedition. -It will not be expected that I should relate all the particulars of my -journey thither, as I retraced my former route with a few occasional -deviations; I shall therefore confine myself to whatever I saw worthy -of interest which I did not observe on my way to Tejuco. - -Dr. Camara did me the honor to accompany me as far as San Gonçal, and -showed me a work a short distance from the establishment, near the -margin of a river of the same name. As I staid here one entire day -with this gentleman, I had leisure to examine this singular situation, -where I, for the first time, found mountains of sienite, incredibly -hard, composed of hornblende and feldspar. About forty years ago this -excavation, which was of considerable depth, was suddenly filled up by -the bursting-in of the side, for want of proper support to resist the -pressure of the incumbent stratum, which falling in immense masses, -totally destroyed the works; and they remained in this state until -about two years ago. As the wings of vague report are in general much -longer than those of truth, this place had the reputation of being -extremely rich in diamonds, and the apparent impossibility of clearing -it, added greatly to the credit which was given to it. Old inhabitants -came forward to say that they had been employed in the works when the -accident happened, and that the diamonds found in them excelled in -number, size, and fineness those produced at any other place. These -reports soon reached the ears of the Intendant, who, within a year -after entering his office at Tejuco, formed a plan of clearing and -excavating the works. Such a stupendous undertaking was calculated only -for a man of his superior talents and enterprise. He stationed there -four hundred negroes under the direction of the best officers on the -establishment; inclined planes were formed, and pulleys calculated to -lift immense weights were erected. As some of the masses of sienite -were too large to be raised whole, and the substance was so hard -that steel would not stand to bore it, they were obliged to contrive -means for breaking them. Recourse was had to large fires, with which -the rocks were heated, and cold water was thrown upon them from tubs -suspended by long pieces of timber formed somewhat like cranes. After -six months of very heavy and incessant labor, the place was cleared. -Let us for a moment reflect on the sanguine expectations which had -been formed respecting the size of the diamonds, their number and -brilliancy, the honors that would be conferred on the officers, &c. -and we may judge what must have been the general disappointment, when, -after the very bottom had been scraped, not a diamond was found! Thus -ended this serious trial, made at great expense, labor, and risk; like -many other speculations, built on the delusive stories propagated by -old miners respecting places formerly worked, by which new adventurers -are generally tempted, and frequently ruined. - -I continued my former route, visiting the same friends who had received -me on my journey to Tejuco, until I arrived at Cocaes. In the vicinity -of this place are found fine amethysts and crystals, through which -titanium is interspersed. Proceeding from hence, I took a more easterly -route to Bromada, distant about five leagues. A great part of the road -was covered with rich iron ore. I passed through the village of St. -John, and entered a fine valley, through which ran a little rivulet, -called St. Antonio;—a more delightful place cannot be imagined: the -grounds, which lay in gentle elevations, were capable of every kind -of cultivation, and appeared calculated amply to repay the farmer for -any labor he might bestow on them. In addition to these advantages, -and that of a fine climate, this vicinity yet contains some places -extremely rich in gold. At the end of this valley we crossed the -rivulet over a good stone bridge, and passed through a pretty hamlet -called Barra; proceeding a league further, we arrived at the house -of Captain José Alvarez, who received me with great kindness. This -being Sunday, many of the neighbours were on a visit to his house; a -sumptuous dinner had been provided, and the evening passed in very -interesting conversation relative to the mode of mining in that -neighbourhood. Next day I went to visit the gold-works belonging to -this gentleman, the principal of which was situated near the summit -of a mountain of decomposed granite, one part of which seemed to have -slipped from the other, leaving a cleft of twenty feet perpendicular. -The face of this cleft appeared of different colors, some more red -or brown than others; the parts esteemed most rich in gold had the -appearance of irregular cavities, filled by a stalactitic substance -in decomposition. This mountain has produced a great quantity of -gold, and continues yet rich: it may be truly called auriferous; for -I directed negroes to bring me specimens of earth from every part of -the cleft, from the roots of the grass to the bottom, all of which I -found to contain gold. At this place stamps are used to reduce the more -indurated substances, but they are so ill constructed as to produce -but little effect. After a most pressing invitation to stay, and -advantageous offers of land to a considerable extent, which I found it -expedient to decline, I took leave of the owner of this establishment, -and passed a very large house belonging to _Capitao Mor_ Penha, a very -opulent miner, who has a large establishment of negroes, and extensive -lands. I continued my route five leagues through an auriferous country, -passed the village of St. Barbara, and arrived at Cantas Altas. From -hence I proceeded to Villa Rica, without observing any thing worth -notice. - -I was here received with the same attention and respect which I had -experienced on my first visit. Finding it necessary to remain a few -days to recruit my health, I examined a variety of substances that had -been collected for me during my absence, but was not fortunate enough -to meet with any thing very interesting. The theatre being open, I -passed two evenings there, and was much gratified to find that the -rational amusement of the drama had superseded savage bullfights. The -theatre and decorations were neat, and the performances tolerable; -were they better encouraged, the public would receive greater -gratification. They have ever been under the control of the governor, -and are generally so fettered as to be obliged to perform such pieces -only as his caprice may dictate. - -Leaving Villa Rica, I continued my journey to the capital, where I -arrived about the middle of February 1810, in a most exhausted state, -from the combined effects of fatigue and an indisposition which -continual exertion and want of rest had increased in a considerable -degree. I informed His Excellency the Conde de Linhares of my arrival, -and, in a few days afterwards, had the honor of presenting to him -a report, stating the particulars of my journey. I was afterwards -introduced to the Prince, who did me the honor to express his -approbation of my account of the country through which I had travelled, -and requested me to publish it. He was graciously pleased to make both -my attendants inferior officers, in reward for their good conduct; -and when I expressed my thanks for this mark of his attention, he -replied, that it was too trivial to notice, and desired me to name in -what manner he could testify the sense he entertained of my services. -At this moment my health was so extremely precarious, that I could -not think of remaining in Rio de Janeiro, where I found myself daily -getting worse; otherwise I have not the smallest doubt that the -generosity of the Prince would have amply repaid me for the fatigues I -had encountered. - - - - -CHAP. XVI. - -_General View of Minas Geraes._ - - -THE _capitania_ of Minas Geraes extends from 600 to 700 miles from -north to south, and about the same distance from east to west. It is -bounded on the north by the _capitania_ of Bahia; on the west by that -of Goyaz; on the south by the river Paraibuna, which divides it from -the _capitania_ of Rio de Janeiro. It is separated from the _capitania_ -of Espirito Santo and the coast by an immense chain of mountains, which -country, being inhabited by the Aborigenes, is of course very little -known. - -This _capitania_ is estimated to contain three hundred and sixty -thousand inhabitants, of whom two hundred thousand are negroes, or -their immediate offspring. The population of Indians is not included -in this estimate, nor can it be ascertained; they are considered as by -no means numerous, as they never make any opposition against an armed -force, however small. In the course of my journey I did not see one, -except the child at the village of Conceição, nor did I ever hear of -one of the race of the Buticudos becoming civilized, or living in any -of the villages with the settled inhabitants[58]. - -The regular military establishment of the _capitania_ is very -respectable, and consists of 1400 cavalry, which number is prescribed -by law. Their principal station is at Villa Rica, where the general -resides, who, jointly with the governor, issues all orders respecting -them. They form a disposeable force for the general service of the -_capitania_; they are appointed to guard certain places known to -contain valuable products; also to receive tolls, collect tythes, -patrol the roads, and search suspicious persons, for which purposes -parties of them are stationed at the various guard-houses and -registers. They go in quest of felons, guard the prisons, and likewise -execute orders to impress men levied for service in Rio de Janeiro. -They are employed exclusively in the mining country, which they never -quit, except when they escort diamonds and treasure to the capital, -or are dispatched on any particular service. The regiment is a very -fine one, and enjoys so high a reputation, that numbers are continually -offering to enlist in it. While I was at Villa Rica, nearly two hundred -volunteers were serving, without any remuneration whatever, waiting -to be placed on the establishment according to their seniority, as -vacancies should occur. This affords the general an opportunity of -choosing the most soldier-like men, and those of best character; in -which respects it is asserted, and I believe with great truth, that the -corps is unrivalled. The officers enter very young, and serve as cadets -for a certain period, during which they perform the duty and receive -the pay of privates, from whom they are distinguished by a star on the -right shoulder, and generally exercise together. They are promoted -according to seniority. - -Besides this force, there is a militia, in which all the male -inhabitants of the _capitania_ are enrolled, and are liable to be -called out when occasions require. It is a part of the present policy -of the Prince’s ministers to stimulate the Creolians to active -occupations, by obliging them either to till their grounds, or to enter -the ranks and become soldiers. - -The known produce of this vast extent of territory comes next under -consideration. On this subject I shall not follow a variety of vague -accounts, which have been compiled with little regard to truth, but -shall present to the reader the result of my own observations. - -The great quantities of gold, precious stones, iron, &c. produced in -this country have been largely treated upon. Lead ore appears to be -rare, as it is found only near Abaité. Antimony abounds in the vicinity -of Sabará; native bismuth is found near Villa Rica; arsenical and iron -pyrites are very common; titanium is found in octahedral crystals, -also in beautiful prisms and tender spicula, finely grouped in rock -crystal. Platina may be obtained in tolerable quantities at Lagos, but -the place which produces it has been abandoned from want of a market. -Chromate of lead, _I was informed_, is found in the vicinity of Cocaes; -but I have reason to suspect I was imposed upon. At Tejuco, also, I was -shown some, and was presented with two pieces, which are uncommonly -fine, more brilliant in color than that from Siberia, and distinctly -crystallized on a matrix of granular sand-stone, accompanied with the -green oxide of chrome. Copper can scarcely be said to exist in this -country; the only place at present known to produce it, is a mountain -twenty leagues from Tejuco, where small particles appear in a rock -of quartz and hornblende: the matrix is so hard, and the quantity of -copper so trivial, as to afford no encouragement to work it. The place -has been examined by the Intendant, and is known to most persons in -Tejuco[59]. No mines of silver have been discovered in the _capitania_, -but the gold is generally found to contain that precious metal, -sometimes in great proportion. No tin, cobalt, or any other metal, -except those above mentioned, have been hitherto met with. - -Of salts, impure nitrate of potass is formed in great abundance, -generally, if not always, in calcareous situations, in a tract of -country which commences from ten to fourteen degrees west of Tejuco, -particularly at Monte Rodrigo, which is situated between the two -celebrated rivers called Rio dos Velhos and Parauna. This mountain is -very large and well wooded; the stratum is calcareous, and contains -many eaves furred, as it were, with nitrate of potass. Since Government -has made nitre an object of commerce, and encouraged its production, -many families have settled at this place, and have collected large -quantities of this saliferous substance, which, after several -operations, is sent to Rio de Janeiro, where it is refined for the -great powder-manufactory recently established near that city. - -In various places are found the finest clays in great plenty, fit for -porcelain and earthenware of every description, which are entirely -neglected. In other parts I saw cyanite, actinolite, tremolite, -pot-stone, and chlorite. Conglomerate masses of recent formation, -enveloping diamonds and grains of gold, are sometimes, though rarely, -met with; also a siliceous substance of a fine dark-blue color, -probably totally unknown. - -On the vegetable products of this _capitania_ I have but few -observations to make, in addition to those already given in the course -of my narrative. Many parts are well calculated for the growth of -hemp and flax, and water for steeping them is easily obtained in most -situations; so that the only impediment to the introduction of these -useful plants appears to be the labor required to clear them. - -In the immense woods the finest trees are frequently destroyed by the -creeping plants, which cannot grow without adhering to some support. -When they attach themselves to a tree, they shoot up very rapidly, -encircling it with numerous fibres, and in a few years become so strong -as entirely to stop the growth of the tree, and at length destroy it. -When in a young state, they are so flexible as to be used for ordinary -purposes instead of cords. I have seen negroes make their bridles of -them, and ride with them for a day together. - -As these forests remain unexplored, many of the trees are unknown, and -consequently the qualities of their barks. However, there are some used -by the inhabitants in dying yellow; and I was informed some yielded -a black color that could not be washed out. There is a variety which -serves for curing skins, or tanning, some of which give the hide a red -color, others leave it almost white: but this art is so little known, -and the people are so averse to employments of this sort, that it has -hitherto made little progress. - -Gum tragacanth is in great plenty, and of a very good quality. There -are immense quantities of aromatic shrubs; and I found in many places, -upon the bark of trees, and more particularly upon old wood, a lichen, -which yielded to water a most beautiful crimson color[60]. Jointed -canes grow spontaneously, frequently above thirty feet long, and in -many places form arcades over the road: these plants always indicate -the soil to be very fertile. - -Ferns grow so large, as almost to lose their characteristic: I have -frequently seen them twelve feet high. These and other succulent -plants, when reduced to ashes, serve to make soap, of which almost -every negra knows the process, and most families make for their own -use. It is very sharp, and washes white articles uncommonly well[61]. -In this fine country, where almost every gradation of climate may be -found, European fruits, such as olives, almonds, chesnuts, mulberries, -&c. would thrive, if properly attended to. - -The mulberry is cultivated at one place, where I saw a few silk worms. -The climate is favorable to them, but the population is not sufficient -to carry the breeding of them to any extent, as they require great -attendance and care. - -Cochineal may be said to be almost unknown in the _capitania_; -the _palma Christi_ grows spontaneously, and from its seeds great -quantities of castor oil may be extracted. For bananas and other -tropical fruits the climate is not sufficiently hot, and is too -changeable. Beans, peas, and pulse in general are very fine; pumpkins -also, and cabbages grow to a great size. It is a fine country for -flowers; the rose is extremely fragrant, and is in bloom all the year. -Varieties of the passion-flower are found in all parts; pinks and -carnations, with numberless other flowers, grow in great profusion. - -This _capitania_ contains four _comarcas_, or districts, St. João d’El -Rey, Sabará, Villa Rica, and Cerro do Frio, all of which produced much -more gold a few years after their discovery than at present, though in -the year 1809 Villa Rica alone received for gold permuted a hundred and -six _arrobas_ of thirty-two pounds each. The mines in the other three -_comarcas_ cannot be rated to permute less than from fifteen to twenty -_arrobas_, therefore the _capitania_ may be estimated to yield to -Government, as the annual fifth, a quantity not less than one hundred -and fifty _arrobas_. - -St. João d’El Rey, the capital of the district so called, is a -considerable town, and contains at least five thousand inhabitants. It -is situated near the Rio das Mortes, which runs northerly, and empties -itself into the Rio das Velhas. The country around it is very fertile, -and produces excellent fruits, both exotic and indigenous; also Indian -corn, and beans in great quantities; as well as a little wheat. This -_comarca_ being more cultivated than any other part, is called the -granary of the district; cheese is made here in tolerable quantity, and -bacon very indifferently cured, both which are sent to Rio de Janeiro, -and form a considerable trade. Great numbers of fowls are also sent -thither, and a little rum, sugar, and coffee. Provisions of all kinds -are much cheaper than at Villa Rica; pork and beef are about a penny -per pound, poultry in proportion, and vegetables equally cheap. - -About two leagues distant from the town is the rivulet of San -José,[62] formerly abounding in gold-washings, some of which continue -good, particularly those in the vicinity of a pretty village, called -Campanha. In the neighbourhood is a mountain that produces a great -quantity of iron pyrites, which many people believe to be gold, and say -that no method is yet known for extracting it. In this district are -a great number of pines of a very singular variety, from the bark of -which exudes much resinous gum. The wood is of a fine brown-red color, -full of knots, and inconceivably hard. - -Some cotton, although not very considerable in quantity, is grown in -this district; it is spun by hand, and woven into coarse clothing, -generally for the use of the negroes. Finer cloth is sometimes woven -for table linen. The making of lace is a favorite occupation with the -ladies of St. João d’El Rey, who are reputed to be more attentive -to domestic concerns than those of other towns, many of them being -descendants of the Paulistas, so celebrated for industry and economy. - -The district of Sabará was discovered and settled by the Paulistas, -who took possession of it as early as the year 1690, or, according to -some accounts, twenty years earlier. They founded the town which is -now the capital of the district, and worked several gold-mines in its -neighbourhood, the produce of which they sent to their native place, as -it was their custom to do with all the gold found in the various parts -which they explored; on this account the city of S. Paulo acquired a -much higher reputation for riches than it merited, it being generally -believed that all the gold sent from thence was procured in that -vicinity. Some years after the establishment of Sabará, the Court of -Lisbon sent out a nobleman as governor to reduce the settlers, and to -oblige them to pay a tribute in conformity to the laws of the colony. -The settlers took up arms, and several encounters took place, in one of -which the nobleman was killed: but, after some time, the viceroy sent -great reinforcements into the interior, and quelled the insurgents, who -submitted to pay a fifth of the gold produced. An adventurer of the -name of Artis, who was a man of great intrepidity and perseverance, and -had made considerable discoveries in the neighbourhood, was afterwards -appointed governor, and this proved the means of reconciling all -parties. - -Respecting the working of the mines throughout this _capitania_, it has -been already observed, that much loss of time and labor is occasioned -by the want of machinery, and proper implements for the workmen. Not a -cart or wheel-barrow is in use: every thing necessary to be removed is -carried on the heads of the poor negroes, in _gamellas_, who have in -many instances to climb up steep ascents, where inclined planes might -be employed to great advantage, and would be formed with very little -trouble. The cassoon is the only hydraulic machine known, and is very -generally adopted: but it is constructed with great difficulty and -expense, and can be used only where a strong current of water can be -commanded. Pumps might, at very trivial cost, be constructed on the -simple plan of the machines used to pound their Indian corn. - -The tedious process of washing the _cascalho_ for gold in _gamellas_, -would be much shortened by using a machine of very easy construction. -Suppose a cylinder to be formed of bars of iron longitudinally placed, -and nailed to circles of wood, open at each end, and suspended on -two centres, one about sixteen inches higher than the other. At the -highest end the _cascalho_ is to enter by being put into a hopper which -communicates with it. The bars must be nailed almost close to each -other at the upper end, gradually widening to the lower end, where -they should be about half an inch asunder. The cylinder ought to be -from ten to twelve feet long, and a stream of water conducted to fall -upon it length-wise: it should be inclosed, like a dressing-machine -in a flour-mill, and be subjected to a very quick motion. The portion -of _cascalho_ containing the most gold will fall through, near the -upper end; the other parts, according to their comparative fineness, -gradually descending until nothing but the pebbles fall out at the -lower end. The earth, &c. falling into partitions or troughs below the -cylinder, would be ready for being separated from the gold by hand, -which might be done with very little trouble. Machines of this kind -might be made on any scale, and, if generally known and adopted, would -save the labor of the negroes in a tenfold degree. The one constructing -in Cerro do Frio will, when complete, do more work than a hundred -negroes in the same space of time. A considerable improvement might yet -be made in this useful apparatus; for, if the gold, &c. washed from -the machine were to fall upon troughs placed in an inclined position, -having a channel across about a yard from the upper end,[63] all the -gold would precipitate into it, and; if a negro were to be continually -employed in agitating the water, the earthy matter would run off, -leaving only the gold and the ferruginous particles, which might be -easily separated by mercury[64]. The utility of machinery of this kind -is too obvious to need pointing out. - -Mills composed of three heavy irregular stones, resembling our -flint-mills, would reduce many of the ferruginous aggregates and -softer substances which contain gold. The matter thus reduced might be -immediately washed by falling or being put into the inclined planes -before described, and would, no doubt, prove the means of obtaining -considerable quantities of the precious metal, which would be otherwise -lost. Stamps might be useful where gold is found in hard and brittle -substances: but these would be more effectually pulverized by a heavy -stone rolling upon its edge, not unlike a tanner’s bark-mill. - -In many instances, hand-sieves might be useful, and would save much -time and labor in washing, but perhaps they would be too expensive. -Even miners’ tools are much wanted, the only ones in use being the -iron bar and the hoe. The common miner’s pick would in many cases be -serviceable, and _bucking-irons_[65] would reduce the matrix much more -effectually than beating it with stones, which is the only mode now -practised. It is a most unfortunate circumstance, and very detrimental -to the interests of the miners, that whatever is made of iron is so -dear as to be beyond the means of the inhabitants to procure, nor have -they any substitute for it. - -When the present state of the mining country is considered, and its -rich resources are compared with the want of science, which prevents -the inhabitants from improving them, how much is it to be wished that -Government would establish and encourage economical societies on the -plan of our Society of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, in which -inquiries might be made into all subjects relative to the useful arts. -Repositories also might be established in all the principal towns -of the _capitania_, where models of useful machinery and various -implements might be kept for the inspection of the public. Scientific -publications should be purchased, and every means employed to promote -the cultivation of science among the inhabitants. At the meetings of -the societies, every measure tending to increase the commerce of the -district should be discussed with particular attention; honorary gifts -should be made to those who most promoted its welfare, and premiums -should be offered for the encouragement of all attempts to ameliorate -the condition of the working class of the negroes. - -Thus emulation would be enkindled among them, and useful knowledge, -descending from parent to child, would soon be universally diffused. -This would be the true foundation of the prosperity of the country; -for no territory perhaps in the world is so rich in natural products, -and at the same time so neglected for want of an enlightened and -industrious population. - - - - -CHAP. XVII. - -_Brief Notices on the Capitanias of Bahia, Pernambuco, Seara, Maranham, -Para, and Goyaz._ - - -THE _capitania_ of Bahia, to the northward of Minas Geraes, comes next -under consideration, respecting which, as I did not visit it, I have -only to present some observations from the best information I could -procure. It extends a considerable distance along the coast, being -bounded on the north by the great river St. Francisco, which runs into -the sea in lat. 11° south, and separated from the district of Ilheos -(formerly a _capitania_) by the river Das Contas in lat. 14° south. It -receives its name from the capacious bay on which its capital is built, -and which affords excellent anchorage for ships of any burthen. St. -Salvador, the capital, also called Cidade de Bahia, was originally the -seat of the supreme government of Brazil: it consists of two parts, one -built on low ground near the shore, where the commerce is carried on, -and the other on a high hill, which being considered the most healthy, -is the residence of all the people of consequence. Its population -is said to be nearly equal to that of Rio de Janeiro, and is stated -at not less than seventy thousand souls. The houses are built with -latticed windows and balconies, similar to those in Rio de Janeiro. -The churches are the public buildings most worthy of notice: they are -said to be richly ornamented within. The government of the city is -vested in a governor, who is nominated by the court for three years. -Here all law proceedings, civil and criminal, come before the tribunal, -called _Rellaças_, the sentence of which is in general final, though -appeals in certain cases may be made to a higher tribunal, called the -_Dezembargo do Paço_. - -This town is tolerably defended, also the bay, as well as circumstances -will permit. On the shore is a royal arsenal, and numerous houses for -stores, &c. The custom-house and wharfs are conveniently situated. -Ships of war have been built here, also many very large and fine -vessels for the merchant service. For these purposes a large supply of -fine timber was (and, I presume, continues to be) readily obtained from -the interior from the number of fine rivers which flow into the bay. -The wood holds iron better, and is superior to our oak. - -The manners and customs of the people differ little from those of the -inhabitants of the capital; but it is said that in the best societies -here, more gaiety and refinement prevail, and the higher classes are -more sociable, than in Rio de Janeiro. A taste for music is general; -there are few houses without the guitar, and all the more respectable -families have piano-fortes. The ladies dress in the English style, -and ornament themselves with gold chains: they wear very few diamonds; -their favorite gem is the chrysolite. For deshabille at home they wear -a kind of loose dress, over which they throw a veil on the entrance of -strangers. They are considered as far less industrious than the females -of the southern districts. The domestic dress of the men consists of a -jacket and loose trowsers, made of light printed cotton. - -Religious processions take place here, as in Rio de Janeiro, on -great festivals and rejoicing days; and these festive occasions are -distinguished by various amusements, which continue from morning -to night. At these times the Brazilians have a custom of covering -the walls and balconies of their houses with velvet or beautiful -silks, embroidered with gold lace, in architectural orders, made and -ornamented for the purpose; thus adorned the houses exhibit a most -splendid appearance. - -One of the most memorable seasons of rejoicing of late years was when -the Prince touched at this city on his voyage to Rio de Janeiro, and -remained several days. The inhabitants testified their loyalty and -attachment to him by every public demonstration of joy, and by a -display of all the grandeur and magnificence which they had means to -furnish. As a more solid proof of their attachment and regard, they -unanimously voted to subscribe a sum equal to a million sterling to -build a palace for the royal family, if the Prince would condescend to -reside among them. - -The climate is always warm, but is refreshed by the sea-breeze, and -is in some degree tempered by the long absence of the sun, the nights -being of almost uniform length throughout the year. Though hotter than -Rio de Janeiro, Bahia is considered much more healthful, having a more -airy situation, and being better supplied with water. The practice of -bathing is very general, and most of the houses have conveniences for -this purpose. - -Bahia is plentifully supplied with provisions. Beef and pork are in -abundance; the former is decidedly bad, the latter tolerable. Fish are -in great plenty and variety, and form a principal article in the diet -of the inhabitants. Fish, with sallad, is the general supper of almost -all ranks; even the rich desire nothing more for this repast in family. -Numbers of retail shopkeepers, who sell wine, cheese, groceries, &c. -buy fish and fry it, and afterwards retail it in small quantities. -Poultry is in plenty, but not cheap; vegetables, and pulse of every -description, are in very great profusion. The markets are well supplied -with all the tropical fruits, many of which are said to be in great -perfection, particularly the pine, the mango, and the banana; the -latter is esteemed the best in America. Preserved fruits are in great -abundance, owing to the cheapness of sugar; great varieties of them -are sold in the streets, and two or three preserved limes in a cup -of syrup may be bought for less than a penny. Even the lower orders -conclude the meanest dinner with this delicious delicacy. - -The soil of this _capitania_ is peculiar, and is esteemed the best -in Brazil for the growth of the sugar-cane. This advantage, and the -conveniences arising from the numerous rivers that flow from the -interior into the bay, have occasioned the establishment of many sugar -plantations, undoubtedly the finest in the country, which have produced -immense quantities of that article. The soil most adapted to the plant, -and held in the highest estimation, is a black greasy loam, a deposit, -containing a large quantity of decomposed vegetable matter. - -The opulent and best informed planters have imported steam-engines for -the crushing of cane, which will probably prove very advantageous, and -cheaper in many situations, as they can at all times be worked, and are -as easily regulated as a water-mill. - -The mode of cultivating the cane has already been detailed. If planted -in new soil, it is fit for cutting in fourteen months, but in old and -poorer land it requires eighteen or twenty months. When ripe, the -canes are cut and dressed by taking off the top leaves, &c. which -afford excellent provender for cattle; they are then brought to the -mill, which is composed of three wooden or iron cylinders, moving on -their axes in a perpendicular position, and between them the canes -are repeatedly passed until all the juice is expressed, and they are -reduced to a mass of dry fibres. - -The cane-juice is conducted through spouts to a large boiler or -clarifier, where a certain quantity of alkaline matter, called -_temper_, is added to it[66]. Afterwards it is conducted to the largest -of a range of boilers, consisting of three, or sometimes four, one -less than another. The largest seldom contains more than one hundred -gallons. Here the syrup boils for a certain time, and is continually -skimmed; it is then laded to the next, where it continues to boil until -more of the aqueous fluid is evaporated; after which, it is laded into -the third boiler, and is there sometimes sufficiently boiled without -removing it into the fourth. They judge of its consistency by the -touch; a little of the syrup is taken between the thumb and finger, and -if it forms threads, and breaks on being drawn about an inch, it is -supposed to be boiled sufficiently[67]. It then begins to granulate, -and is gently laded into earthen pots of the form of a sugar-loaf, -about two feet deep and ten inches in diameter at the open end, where, -on cooling, it becomes concrete. In the lower end of each pot is a -small hole, which at first is nearly closed; but after the sugar begins -to cool, it is unstopped, and a piece of cane is put in to admit the -molasses to drain. Soon after the moulds are filled, they are removed -into an airy room, where they are placed so that the molasses drain -into a large cistern, from whence they are conveyed into the fermenting -vats, which are recepticles for all the refuse of every description in -the sugar-house. In the process of fermentation much depends on the -quality of the wood of which the vats are made; some of them bring the -liquor into a proper state for distillation two or three days sooner -than others. - -The greatest part of the sugars made here are clayed, by a very simple -operation, which consists merely in covering the sugar with very moist -clay, the water from which percolates the mass, and carries with it the -remaining molasses. When the earthy matter becomes dry, more is applied -until the sugar is perfectly freed, and nearly white. This operation -renders the article unfit for making loaf sugar. After remaining in -the drying-house about six weeks, the moulds are placed with the large -end downwards, and the sugar leaves them; they are then beaten down to -powder in large strong cases, constructed of four entire planks, and -the two ends, generally about eight feet long, and about twenty-six -inches square[68], holding from fifteen to sixteen hundred-weight. The -cases, when filled, are nailed down, and are ready for shipping. - -The principal points to be attended to in making sugar are, first, that -the canes be all ripe, and well cleaned from _trash_ and leaves; next, -that they be immediately crushed, and not suffered to lie in heaps -to heat; and thirdly, that the rollers, and all the passages for the -liquor, be well cleansed by washing as often as necessary. - -A greater quantity of sugar is shipped from Bahia than from all the -other parts of Brazil united, and in general it is of a very good -quality; that from certain plantations is particularly so. It is -not however, esteemed of so strong a body as our best from the West -Indies[69]. - -The tobacco of this _capitania_ is peculiar to it; and, by an exclusive -privilege, no other part of Brazil was allowed to cultivate the same -sort. It has given rise to much commerce, and has enriched many -families. It was the most esteemed sort, not only in Portugal, but in -Spain, and all her colonies, where it has been sold at great prices. -Great quantities of it were consumed in Barbary; and on many parts of -the coast of Guinea the demand for it was such that it was almost -impossible to carry on trade for gold, ivory, gums, and oil without -it. The mode of growing and manufacturing it is as follows:—First, a -good piece of ground is prepared, the finer dressed the better; the -seed is sown broad-cast, and when the plants are about six weeks or two -months grown, they are transplanted into ground prepared as before. In -eight or ten months they arrive at their full growth, and when ripe -the leaves are taken from the stem, which frequently grows from four -to seven feet high. They are laid upon the ground, or, in preference, -upon any support which will preserve them from absorbing moisture, -and admit a free circulation of air underneath. When they become in a -slight degree withered, they are twisted with a strong winch, the end -of one leaf uniting with the other, and the twist is coiled into a -roll weighing from thirty to forty pounds. By this operation the juice -of the leaf is expressed, which is viscid, and when oxidated becomes -of a black color, not unlike molasses. The tobacco, after this last -operation, is fit for commerce. - -It is an object highly worthy the attention of the Portuguese -government, to introduce other modes of curing tobacco. There can be -no doubt that the soil and climate are congenial to it, and, were it -properly prepared, it would probably equal any in Virginia, and become -as great an article of commerce among the northern nations. Should -such a commerce be pursued, how many cargoes of this commodity alone -would arrive in our ports, and from thence be distributed to the -different markets of Europe! - -Cotton has of late been grown here in considerable quantities, and -has been sent to England at nearly the same price with that grown in -Pernambuco, and its plantations are daily increasing and improving[70]. - -Here are many plantations of coffee, but it is not esteemed so fine -as that from Rio de Janeiro. Rice is produced in tolerable quantity, -and its quality is superior: but the husk is so difficult to separate -from the grain, that a great part is bruised in the operation, and is -thus rendered of less value. The method of cleaning it is bad. Why not -apply such mills as those used in Carolina, of which there is now one -working at Maranham by steam, that has improved the quality of rice so -materially, that it now sells in Europe for nearly the same price as -the North American. - -The beautiful dye-wood, called Brazil-wood, is shipped from this port -and Pernambuco, of a quality much superior to that of Rio de Janeiro. -This is one of the articles prohibited from general commerce, being -the property of the royal household. Fustic in small quantities is -brought from the interior. - -The indigo made here is so far inferior to that imported from India -as scarcely to be worth mentioning. It is owing to the great quantity -of lime in it. There is a general opinion among all who make indigo, -that some part of the process is very prejudicial to the health of -the negroes, who frequently become sick, and often die while employed -in it, which is most probably owing to deleterious gas which escapes -during fermentation. - -Bahia has a considerable trade with all the ports on the coast, -from whence are exported various articles, the prices of which are -continually fluctuating. A great number of fine brigs and smaller -vessels are employed in this trade. - -Produce to a considerable amount was exported to the River Plata, from -whence a great quantity of hides and tallow were returned. - -The imports to Bahia from Europe consist in general of the same -articles with those specified in the description of Rio de Janeiro. In -this _capitania_ was found the largest piece of native copper that has -ever appeared, being in weight upwards of 2,000lbs. It was discovered -several years ago by some persons who were preparing to wash for gold. - -To the north of Bahia are the _capitanias_ of Pernambuco, Seará, -and Maranham, the interior of which is very little known, though -some parts of the coast are tolerably populous. Pernambuco, though -situated nearly in the latitude of eight degrees, is considered -healthy. The town is built on a rising ground, much exposed, and -constantly refreshed by the sea-breeze. It has many excellent edifices, -and is supposed to contain more opulent merchants, in proportion to -population, than any other place in Brazil. It produces _vanilla_, -cocoa, and a considerable quantity of sugar; but the chief article -of its trade is cotton, which for many years had the reputation of -being superior to any other, but of late it has much deteriorated, -from neglect, either in the growth, or in the gathering the pods and -cleaning it from the seeds, or probably from general inattention to the -whole management of it. The cotton, when ready for packing, is pressed -into raw hides, so hard as to form very heavy packages. The operation -is superintended by an officer authorised by Government, who puts a -stamp upon it describing its quality, which enables the shipper to pass -it through the custom-house, where it pays a heavy duty on exportation. - -The district of Seará is but little known, it enjoys an extensive trade -in cotton and sugar. Maranham, though a very small district, has of -late raised itself considerably into eminence by the cultivation of -cotton, the other productions are the same as those of Pernambuco. -Cotton and rice are the staple articles, with some cocoa and sugar, -numerous cargoes of which are annually exported. - -The dye-wood of these districts is considered excellent, and is -sometimes shipped from this coast. The tree which produces the -_annatto_ is very common, and the seeds from which it is washed are -of the best quality, and might be obtained in great abundance. Cocoa -may be grown in any quantity; capsicum, pimento, ginger, &c. are very -plentiful. - -The markets are well stored with fish and meat, the latter very -indifferent in its kind. Poultry, vegetables, and fruits, are in great -abundance. - -St. Louis, the capital, is built upon an island, and is esteemed -healthy, though so near the equator. Several rivers run into the bay, -which afford an eligible conveyance for the produce of the vicinity. -The island is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants, and the population in -the rivers is by no means inconsiderable. - -The _capitania_ of Pará, is considered the largest in Brazil: its -extent is imperfectly known. The principal town is called Belem, where -the governor resides, and, its government being superior, it may be -said to preside over several of the neighbouring districts. The land -is low and unhealthy, the great river, or port, is much interrupted -by shoals and currents. It is a dangerous coast, and exposed to a -continual swell, so as to render it hazardous for ships to anchor upon -it, as they roll so much that they not only endanger their masts, but -are subject to strain. - -The town of Pará is situated on the river Tocantines, the navigation -of which is difficult, and is seldom attempted, except by small craft: -the Confiance sloop of war with great care sailed up it, and anchored -near the town, several days previous to the expedition against Cayenne. -The town may contain ten thousand inhabitants, who are in general -very poor, probably from want of commerce: for although the great -rivers Tocantins and Amazons have their source, the latter in Peru, -and the former in the _capitania_ of Goyaz, though they receive almost -millions of inferior streams in their course through immense tracts of -territory, yet they are not productive of any commerce of consequence. -The exports from Pará consist of a considerable quantity of rice, -cocoa, cotton, drugs, hides of various sorts, woods, and a few other -articles. The trade is much on the increase, and it is to be hoped, -that from its vast internal communications, it may be greatly extended, -and more ships loaded for Europe, as a cargo is generally rather -precarious, and sometimes difficult to be obtained. - -The climate is hot, as may well be supposed, from its lying so near -the equinoctial. Thunder, with lightning and rain, occurs generally -every afternoon, when the air becomes more cool, and the heat less -disagreeable. - -On conversing with creditable men who had lived many years at Pará, -Maranham, and upon the coast, I never heard them relate the strange -accounts of the Indians which Estalla has related. As a Spaniard, he -seems to be amusing the public with the actions of his own countrymen -in Chili, and to aim, in common with all the writers of his nation, to -prejudice the world against the Portuguese. - -The _capitania_ of Goyaz is bounded chiefly by Minas Geraes on the -east, Matto Grosso on the west, and Pará on the north. Its greatest -extent in length is from lat. 6° south to 21°. Villa Boa, its -principal town, is situated in lat. 16° south, about eighty leagues -to the west of Paracatu, from whence there is a good road. Here is -a permutation-house, where all the gold found in the _capitania_ is -permuted. The governor is elected for three years, after which he is -generally appointed to Bahia or Minas Geraes. In the _capitania_ are -many gold mines, some of which produce gold of a very fine quality. -Diamonds have been found in some parts, which are different in their -appearance from those found in Cerro do Frio, having more brilliancy -on their exterior; but when cut, they are not in general of so pure -a water, though of a very desirable size. As this fine district is -so distant from the coast, it has very little commerce in any of -its productions, except the valuable substances above mentioned, -and cattle, which are bred on the frontiers; also some cotton, and -occasionally a few particular articles, which are sent to Rio de -Janeiro. The mules on the return-journey, are all loaded with salt, -iron, cheap cotton-prints, woollens (particularly baizes), hats, -fire-arms, powder, and shot, and a variety of artificers’ tools. When -any of the inhabitants have any thing peculiarly precious to dispose -of, they generally take it to Rio de Janeiro, and lay out the proceeds -chiefly in the purchase of negroes, (they being at all times the first -object), iron, salt, and other commodities. - -The population is very small in comparison to the extent of the -district, but is likely to be increased by new settlers; although -the indigent in Villa Rica, Tejuco, and other places in the mining -country, are little inclined to remove out of society, even for the -chance of riches: in fact, having no negroes fit to work, and being -totally destitute of exertion themselves, all situations are to them -indifferent. These are by no means the class of people who can be -styled adventurers. The poorer class of inhabitants who have obtained -a small portion of gold, sometimes make a journey to Paracatu or -Villa Rica, to purchase what negroes they want. This _capitania_ has -been very little explored, and scarcely any thing is known of its -productions beyond what is above stated; indeed, it is not unreasonable -to presume that the soil contains the same variety of metals as the -district of Minas Geraes. Many persons from thence, with whom I have -conversed, speak of it with delight as being a fine country, having -numerous rivers well stored with fish, woods abounding with fine birds, -which afford excellent diversion to the sportsman; also a great variety -of animals. - -This _capitania_ communicates with Matto Grosso, S. Paulo, and Pará, by -rivers which are navigable, though frequently interrupted by falls. - - - - -CHAP. XVIII. - -_Geographical Description of the Capitania of Matto Grosso[71]._ - - -RESPECTING this extensive portion of Brazil, I had an opportunity -of gaining considerable information, being intimately acquainted -with the commanding officer of the military force stationed there, -Colonel Martines, an engineer of extraordinary merit, who had made -four journeys to Matto Grosso, and had resided there some years. He -was kind enough to give me a description of his route from S. Paulo -to the capital of that province, and promised me a chart of the -navigable rivers and roads from thence to Pará, which had been formed -by officers of his party, together with documents in illustration -of it. But he being hastily called away on a particular service, was -prevented from executing his promise, and I could only profit by the -verbal description which he repeatedly gave me. This description, -as proceeding from an officer of such undoubted veracity, it was my -intention to give to the public; but, after my return to England, I was -agreeably surprised to find a MS. nearly corresponding with it, in the -hands of that eminent geographer, Mr. Arrowsmith, who has liberally -permitted me to make use of it. To his excellent map, compiled -according to the latest MS. charts communicated from Brazil, I beg -leave to refer the reader for an accurate delineation of the particular -localities here detailed. - -This extensive _capitania_ is separated from the neighbouring territory -belonging to Spain by the intervening channels of the rivers Paraguay, -Madeira, Mamoré, and Guaporé, which form a broad and natural trench -around it of five hundred leagues in circuit, by means of which, and by -upwards of thirty rivers that empty themselves into it, a communication -is opened through many and distant points with the interior of Brazil. -This _capitania_, from its geographical position, has ever been -considered as the grand outwork of Brazil, not only because it covers -the interior divisions of this vast portion of the new continent, -which is the cradle of its greatest rivers, branching in innumerable -channels, and enriched with great and untouched treasures; but also -because, by this extensive channel, the Portuguese are enabled to -penetrate to the establishments of Spain in Peru. - - -_The River Araguaya, or Grande._ - -The eastern boundary of the _capitania_ of Matto Grosso, separating -it from that of Goyaz, is the river Grande, two hundred leagues from -Villa Bella. This river, known in the state of Pará, by the name -of Araguaya only, which is conferred on it by the numerous nations -inhabiting its banks, has its remotest source in lat. 19°, and running -north and south, intersected at various points by the meridian of 52° -30′, flows in lat. 6° into the Tocantines, wherein it loses its name; -and both, thus united in one ample stream, continue their course for -three hundred and seventy leagues, and fall into the southern estuary -of the mighty river Amazons in lat 1° 40′ between the two celebrated -bays of Marapata and Limseiro, opposite to the great island of Joannes, -or Murajo, and twenty leagues west of the city of Pará. The river das -Mortes, which rises far to the west of the Rio Grande, and forms its -highest western branch, running for a considerable space to the east, -and afterwards to the north, with an entire course of 150 leagues, till -it enters the Araguaya in lat. 12°, is entirely within the _capitania_ -of Matto Grosso. - -The river Araguaya is peopled by many tribes of warlike savages; it -abounds in all the productions peculiar to the state of Pará, and -affords an uninterrupted navigation from the city of that name, and -by the river, with the centre of Brazil and the _capitania_ of Matto -Grosso. The same is practicable by the river das Mortes, and other -western branches which enter the Rio Grande below. These branches, -no doubt, contain unexplored mines; for there is no physical reason -why gold should be found in the rivers that enter the Araguaya on the -eastern side, (where, besides Villa Boa, are situated several villages -belonging to the _capitania_ of Goyaz), and not likewise in the -branches on the opposite side. It is positively known that the river -das Mortes is auriferous, and hence it is fair to conclude that the -smaller streams which flow into it are much more so, for the nearer the -source the greater is the quantity of gold found. The mines of one of -its western branches were abandoned, not from the absence or scarcity -of the precious metal, but because, being remote from the road, and in -the midst of a swamp peopled by savages, the few settlers could not get -conveniently supplied with arms, implements, and other articles. - -In some of these mines gold above twenty-three carats has been found, -but the greater part is only of seventeen, and of a green color, being -combined with a large portion of silver. - - -_The River Chingu_, - -the clearest, and one of the largest and most copious branches of the -Amazons, which it enters on the south side, after a course of three -hundred leagues, in lat. 1° 42′, and long. 53°, seventy leagues west -of the city of Pará, in a direct line, but one hundred of navigation, -is confined in a great part of its course to the _capitania_ of Matto -Grosso. - -Its remote sources supply, not only the lands in which rise also the -branches and rivers forming to the east and north the upper part of the -river Cuiaba, but also that large space north of the river das Mortes, -intersected by the great road from Goyaz, extending as far as the river -Porrudos. There is a tradition among the guides of the Sutãos[72] of -Pirá and the Indians established on the banks of the Chingu, that, -after mounting the first large falls of this river, much gold was found -in it, of which the Jesuits, those great explorers, obtained a large -quantity. It is probable that the now unknown Minas dos Martirios, -famous as the first discovery made by Bart^o. Bueno, and of which I -have heard repeated mention in S. Paulo, exist only on some of the -many branches that form the river Chingu. For this enterprising man, -after having discovered those mines, returned to S. Paulo in order to -engage negroes, and provide implements for extracting those treasures, -which to this day continue to elude the searches of others, retraced -his course; but passing by the mines of Cuiaba, which had been just -discovered and were found wonderfully productive, he was there deserted -by the greatest part of his followers. Fearing that he should lose the -rest also, he turned eastward, and, in his anxiety to avoid the mines -of Cuiaba, got still farther from those of dos Martirios, until he lost -himself in the immense wastes, wherein he wandered many months, and -at length accidentally found the mines of Goyaz, which his father had -before seen. These, like all the rest, proved very productive at the -beginning. - -This rich and new discovery soon diverted the attention of adventurers -from the preceding; and the route to the Minas dos Martirios, together -with their positive situation, have long been lost in a vague tradition -of their existence. As the place was explored without the assistance of -a compass, or any of the means necessary for defining its geographical -position, there could not but prevail much doubt and uncertainty -respecting it. Now there is no such discovery on the river Tocantines, -which comprehends the whole _capitania_ of Goyaz: the first account -places it near a river, which indeed runs into the Amazons, like the -Tocantines, but which was sought for passing near the upper branches, -and west of the river Cuiaba, a situation in which the river Chingu -alone is found; other explorers place it on the Araguaya, which renders -it useless to look there, for it is more than two hundred leagues -north-west of the place sought. This is substantiated by a fact of -later date, which is as follows:—A grandson of Bart^o. Bueno, under -the direction of an ancient journal of this discovery, describing -the route to it, descended by the river das Mortes, and entered some -extensive plains on its western bank, on which he travelled westward -for some days, when he arrived at a plain covered with white _Mangaba_ -trees, which were designated in the journal. From this place they had a -sight of some detached high mountains between the north and west, three -of which were of the figure specified, and indicated the situation of -the Minas dos Martirios. An unexpected attack of the Indians, in which -the chief and many others of the adventurers were killed, dispersed the -party, and frustrated the object at the moment when it appeared to be -already attained. - -The river abounds in various products: cocoa is in plenty; there are -some spices, and various indigenous fruits. - - -_The River Tapajos_ - -is the third which derives its copious sources, flowing through -numerous large branches, from the _capitania_ of Matto Grosso. It runs -north between the Madeira and the Chingu for three hundred leagues, -flowing into the Amazons in lat. 2° 24′ 50″, and long. 55°, which is -the geographical position of the town of Santarem, situated at its -mouth one hundred and eighteen leagues from the city of Pará, and one -hundred and sixty-two by the shortest navigation. The river Tapajos -rises in the plains of the Parexis, so called from an Indian nation -which inhabits them. These plains occupy a vast space, not level, but -formed by undulating heaps of sand and light earth, resembling large -waves. The spectator who is in the midst of them ever sees before -him a distant and extended mount; he advances towards it by a gentle -and long declivity, traverses the plain, and advances by an ascent -equally gentle until he gains imperceptibly the heights he saw; another -eminence then presents itself, and he proceeds with the same recurring -circumstances. The soil of these wide plains is sandy, and so light -that loaded beasts in passing sink into it so much as to impede their -progress. The pasturage is poor, consisting of a grass composed of -wiry stalks a foot high, and small rough lancet-shaped leaves; the -animals in grazing pluck them up with the roots covered with sand; on -this account the passage by land is difficult and tedious; though, on -finding any of the streams, which abound in these plains, there is -grass and other mild herbage, which afford tolerable pasturage. The -plains of Parexis form, to a large extent and breadth, the summit of -those high mountains of the same name, and are situated on some of -the most elevated land in all Brazil; for from them descend the two -greatest rivers of South America,—the Paraguay, as well in its own -numerous heads, as in its great and higher branches, the Jauru, the -Sypotuba, and the Cuiaba,—and the Madeira, which is the largest river -that flows into the Amazons on the south. - -The Tapajos, flowing in a direction contrary to that of the above-named -river, rises in these mountains. Its westermost branch is the river -Arinos, which intwines its sources with those of the Cuiaba at a -short distance from those of the Paraguay. The river Arinos has a -western branch, called Rio Negro, from which, to the point where it is -navigable, there is a passage of eight leagues over land to the river -Cuiaba, below its upper and greatest falls; and, in like manner, from -the Arinos itself the passage to the same part of the river Cuiaba is -twelve leagues. - -The Arinos is auriferous at its springs, and in 1747 the mines of -Santa Isabel were discovered in it, but immediately abandoned, as not -answering the expectations created in those fortunate times by the -great quantities of gold drawn from the mines of Cuiaba and Matto -Grosso. The lands were infested by dangerous tribes of warlike Indians. - -The river Sumidouro empties itself on the south side into the Arinos, -and its source being a short distance from that of the Sypotuba, a -large western branch of the Paraguay, there is an easy communication -from one river to the other. The famous discoverer, João de Souza -Echevedo, in 1746, made this passage: he descended the river Cuiaba, -and sailing up the Sypotuba to its very sources, he there passed his -canoes over land into the Sumidouro, which he navigated, following the -current, notwithstanding that the river runs for some distance under -ground, and thence derives its appellation. After this, he passed into -the Arinos, and thence into the Tapajos, where he surmounted the falls, -though more difficult than those of the Madeira, and discovered many -symptoms of gold in the river of Tres Barras, a western arm of the -Tapajos, a hundred leagues below the springs of the Arinos. West of -the Sumidouro, and in the plains of Parexis, the river Xacurutina has -its origin to the north of the river Jauru: it is famous for a lake, -situated in one of its branches, where every year is produced a great -quantity of salt, which is a constant cause of war among the Indians. -Some navigators make the Xacurutina an arm of the Arinos, and others of -the Sumidouro. In these plains of Parexis, terminating to the west in -the high mountains so denominated, which, extending two hundred leagues -in a north-north-west direction, front the Guapore at a distance of -fifteen or twenty leagues, springs the river Juruena, between the heads -of the Sarare and the Guapore, a league east of the former and two -west of the latter. This river, the largest and westermost branch of -the Tapajos, rises in lat. 14° 42′, twenty leagues north-north-east of -Villa Bella, and, running north one hundred and twenty leagues, flows -into the Arinos, and with it forms the bed of the Tapajos. - -The Juruena receives on both sides many small rivers, those from -the west affording many practicable communications by short passages -over-land with the Guapore and its confluent streams. The uppermost -of these, which is nearest to Villa Bella, is the Securiu, navigable -even there, and almost to its source. This is a league north of the -principal source of the river Sarare, which, a quarter of a league -from its head, is three yards deep and five broad. Thus sailing up -the Juruena, into the Securiu, and making from its source the short -land-passage of a league to the Sarare, the navigator may reach Villa -Bella in less than eight days, without any other obstacle than that of -the fall formed by the Sarare, three leagues below its source, where it -precipitates itself from the Parexis mountains on the western slope: -this difficulty may be surmounted in detail, or by at once passing -the four leagues, for the Sarare from its fall becomes immediately -navigable to the capital of Matto Grosso. A league north of the source -of the Sarare is the first head of the river Galera, the second -confluent of the Guapore below Villa Bella; and a league east of the -same head rises the Ema, a western branch of the Securiu, affording -equal facility of communication. The Galera has three other sources -north of the first in the plains of the Parexis, all ample streams; the -last and most northerly, called Sabará, is distant little more than -a league from the source of the river Juina, a large western branch -of the Juruena. Thus by the Juina and the Securiu, with a crossing -of five or six leagues, so as to pass the falls of the Galera on the -western scarp of the mountain, the Juruena may be connected with the -Guapore. - -Lastly, the Juruena may be navigated to its upper fall, which is within -two leagues of its own source. The fall is formed by two small leaps, -the river being, even in this part, thirty yards broad and of great -depth; from hence downwards it flows with great rapidity, yet its falls -are not greater, and are more passable, than those of the Arinos. -With the same circumstances, and by similar short land-passages, a -communication is practicable from the Juruena with the rivers Guapore -and Jauru, which are to the eastward of it, although these two rivers -precipitate themselves from the south side of the Parexis mountains, -where they rise, and immediately form numerous and extensive falls. - -From the geographical position of the Tapajos, it is evident that this -river facilitates navigation and commerce from the maritime city of -Pará to the mines of Matto Grosso and Cuiaba, by means of its large -branches, the Juruena and Arinos; if the short passages over-land -should be found troublesome to drag canoes, the goods may be forwarded -immediately on mules. This navigation to Matto Grosso is at least two -hundred leagues shorter than that performed through the Madeira and -Guapore; it is consequently less tedious and expensive, and equally -advantageous to the mines of Cuiaba. The navigation of the river -Tapajos might lead also to new discoveries in the vast unexplored parts -of this river, up to its entrance into the plains of the Parexis, -and their products might add to those of the extensive regions on -the Amazons. Besides this, the river is known to be auriferous for a -great part of its course: it is known also, that, passing from the -Juruena into its western arm, the river Camararé, and the heads of the -river Jamary or das Candeas, which, running in broad streams down the -eastern side of the Parexis mountains, enters the Madeira, there are -mines which have inspired great hopes, though but lately seen, after a -fruitless search of twenty years. - - -_The River Paraguay_ - -has its remote springs to the west of the heads of the Arinos in -latitude 13°, and, after a southern course of six hundred leagues, -enters the ocean under the appellation of the Rio de la Plata. The -heads of the Paraguay are seventy leagues north-east from Villa Bella, -and forty leagues north from Cuiaba, and divided into many branches, -and already forming complete rivers, which, as they run south, -successively unite, and form the channel of this immense river, which -is immediately navigable. To the west, a short distance from the main -source of the Paraguay, is that of the Sypotuba, which disembogues on -its west bank in lat. 15° 50′, after a course of sixty leagues. In -the upper part of this river, and near its western branch called the -Jurubauba, was formerly a gold-mine, which was worked with considerable -profit; but the superior advantages derived from others subsequently -explored in Matto Grosso and Cuiaba, caused it to be abandoned, and -its site is not now known with certainty. The little river Cabaral, -also auriferous, enters the Paraguay on the west side, three leagues -below the mouth of the Sypotuba. On the banks of the latter lives a -nation of Indians, called _Barbados_, from the distinction peculiar to -themselves, among all the Indian nations, of having large beards. - -The Boriars Araviras inhabit the banks of the Cabaral: they are a -mixture of two different nations, who in the year 1797 sent four -chiefs of their tribe, accompanied by their mother, to Villa Bella, -in order to solicit the friendship of the Portuguese. The nation -called Parrarioné lives in their neighbourhood, close by the Sypotuba. -A league below the mouth of the Cabaral, on the east bank of the -Paraguay, is Villa Maria, a small and useful establishment, founded in -1778. Seven leagues south of Villa Maria, and on the west bank of the -Paraguay, the river Jauru disembogues into it in lat. 16° 24′. This -river is remarkable for the boundary-mark erected at its mouth in 1754, -as well as for being entirely Portuguese, together with the lands on -its south bank, and bordering on the Spanish possessions. It rises -in the plains of the Parexis in lat. 14° 42′, and long. 58° 30′, and -running south to lat. 15° 45′, the situation of the Register of the -same name, it there turns to the south-east for thirty-four leagues, -till, by an entire course of sixty leagues, it reaches its junction -with the Paraguay. There are salt-water-pits, which in part have -supplied Matto Grosso, ever since its foundation, with salt: they are -in the interior of the country, seven leagues from the Register, and -extend to a place called Salina de Almeida, from the name of the person -who first employed himself in these works. - -These salt-pits are situated along the margins of broad marshy bottoms, -in which are found fish of the same kind with those in the Paraguay. -The Salina de Almeida is not far distant from the bank of Jauru, and -the great quantity of saline liquid found in it continues three leagues -farther to the south, where a junction is formed with another from the -west, called Pitas; westward of which are high and dry plains, where -are found numerous large circles, formed by a species of palm called -Carandas. These plains terminate nine leagues west of the Salina de -Almeida, in a large pool or marsh, called Paopique, which runs to the -south. - -The confluence of the Jauru with the Paraguay is a point of much -importance: it guards and covers the great road between Villa Bella, -Cuiaba, and their intermediate establishments, and in the same manner -commands the navigation of both the rivers, and defends the entrance -into the interior of the latter _capitania_. The Paraguay from this -place has a free navigation upwards, almost to its sources, which are -scarcely seventy leagues distant, with no other impediment than a large -fall. These sources are said to contain diamonds. - -The mark placed at the mouth of the Jauru is a pyramid of beautiful -marble, brought to this distant point from Lisbon. It bears -inscriptions commemorative of the treaty between the courts of Spain -and Portugal, by which the respective territories, of which it stands -as the boundary, were defined. - -The lofty chain of mountains, which extends from the sources of the -Paraguay near its eastern bank, border the river opposite the mouth -of the Jauru, and are terminated seven leagues below it by the Morro -Escalvado in lat. 16° 43′. Eastward of this mount or point, all is -marsh, and nine leagues below it there flows into the east side of -the Paraguay a deep stream or river, called Rio Novo, discovered in -1786, which may hereafter afford a navigation to near St. Pedro d’El -Rey, when the aquatic plants that obstruct its channel are removed. -The most distant sources of this river are the rivulets of Sta. Anna, -Bento Gomes, and others which cross the great road of Cuiaba to the -west of Cocaes. In lat. 17° 33′ the west banks of the Paraguay become -mountainous at the north point of the Serra da Insua, which, three -leagues to the south, makes a deep break to form the mouth of the -lake Gaiba. This lake extends westward, and there is a broad canal of -four leagues in extent, which comes from the north, communicating from -the above lake to that of Uberava, somewhat larger than the Gaiba, -situated exactly contiguous to the Serra da Insua, on its north side. -Six leagues and a half below the mouth of the Gaiba, and opposite this -mountainous bank of the Paraguay, is the mouth of the St. Lourenço, -formerly called Porrudos. Twenty-six leagues above this the river -Cuiaba enters its western bank in lat. 17° 20′, and long. 57° 5′: these -two rivers are of great extent; that of Lourenço has its sources in -lat. 15°, forty leagues east of the town of Cuiaba, receiving (besides -the branches crossed by the road from Goyaz) other great streams on its -east side, such as the Paraiba or Piquiri, which receives the Jaquari -and the Itiquira, all of moderate size, and navigable. The Itiquira -has been navigated to its heads, from whence the canoes were dragged -over-land to the Sucuriu, which falls into the Parana four leagues -below the mouth of the river Tiete on the opposite side. The rivers -Itiquira and Sucuriu were found to have fewer and smaller falls than -the Taquari, and the land-passage is much shorter and more convenient -than that of the Camapuão, so that this navigation is preferable to -that by the two last-mentioned rivers: it is attended by only two -obstacles,—many Indians, and a want of provisions. - -The navigation to the town of Cuiaba by the river of that name, from -its above-mentioned confluence, is short and easy: in the first ten -leagues, after passing the two small islands of Ariacuni and Tarumus, -occurs a large plantation of bananas, formed on an embankment on the -east side of the river. Three leagues above this place the Guacho-uassu -enters the Cuiaba by its east bank, and on the same side, seven leagues -farther, the Guacho-mirim. From this point the river winds in a -north-east direction, eleven leagues to the island of Pirahim, and from -thence makes a large bend to the east, receiving numerous streams, and -passes the town of Cuiaba, which is situated a mile to the eastward of -it. This town is ninety-six leagues to the east of Villa Bella, and the -same distance from the confluence of its river with the Paraguay. It -is large, and, together with its dependencies, may at present contain -30,000 souls. It is well provided with meat, fish, fruits, and all -sorts of vegetables, at a much cheaper rate than at the sea-ports. -Their country is well adapted for cultivation, and has rich mines, but -in some places little water to work them in dry weather. They were -discovered in 1718, and have been estimated to produce annually above -twenty _arrobas_ of gold of extremely fine quality. These mines have -produced an enormous quantity of gold compared with the thinness of the -population, and the want of means, machinery, &c. for working them. - -Twenty leagues south-west of the town of Cuiaba is the settlement of -St. Pedro d’El Rey, the largest of all the adjacent settlements, and -contains full 2,000 inhabitants. It is situated near the western side -of the rivulet Bento Gomes, which, at the distance of a league and a -half south of the settlement, forms a large bay, called Rio de Janeiro. -The river Cuiaba has its sources forty leagues above the town, and its -banks are cultivated through the greater part of its extent, including -fourteen leagues below the town, down the stream. Four leagues below -the principal mouth of the river Porrudos, the Paraguay is bordered by -the mountains that separate it from Gaiba on its western bank, and in -this place they obtain the appellation of _Serra das Pedras de Amolar_, -from being composed of a stone of which whet-stones are made. This -is the only spot which is not inundated by the floods of the river, -and is therefore much visited by the canoes that navigate it. These -_Serras_ terminate two leagues to the south in those of the Dourados, -immediately below which there is a channel on the west side of the -Paraguay, which, piercing between two high detached mounts, called -Cheines, leads to the lake Mendiuri, six leagues long, and the largest -on the Paraguay. - -From the Dourados the Paraguay runs southward to the Serras of -Albuquerque, where it touches directly on the northern point, on which -is situated a town of that name. These Serras form a compact square of -ten leagues, and contain much calcareous stone; the land is considered -the best on either side the Paraguay, from the river downwards, and -only equalled by that on the western margins of the lakes Mandiuri -and Gaiba. From Albuquerque the Paraguay turns to the east, skirting -its Serras, which terminate at the end of six leagues in the Serra do -Rabicho, opposite which, on the north bank of the river, is situated -the lower southern mouth of the Paraguay-mirim. This is an arm of the -Paraguay, which, terminating here, forms an island fourteen leagues -in length from north to south: it is the usual channel for canoes in -times of inundation. From the mouth of the Paraguay-mirim the river -takes a southerly direction to the mouth of the Taquari, navigated -annually by flotillas of canoes and other craft, which come from S. -Paulo to Cuiaba, and even as far as the Register of Jauru, when their -destination happens to be Villa Bella. - -As this navigation is an object of great importance, from its -connecting two distinct districts, the following compendious -description of the route pursued in it may not prove uninteresting; it -is abstracted from the diary of a man of science, who performed the -journey a few years ago, in the month of October, when the Paraguay -begins to retire to its own channel. The description may commence at -the Taquari, as the voyage from thence to Cuiaba and the Jauru has -already been detailed. The largest of the many mouths of the Taquari -in the Paraguay is in lat. 19° 15′, and long. 54°. In the first ten -leagues of navigation, the channel of the river is lost, as it crosses -some large plains, covered with water to the depth of several feet. -This is contiguous to Taquari, a place where the river is much confined. - -From this place it is twenty leagues to the resting-place of Allegre, -in lat. 18° 12′, and this space contains, on both banks of the Taquari, -many entrances into the paths, which lead in time of the floods to -various distant places on the Paraguay, Porrudos, and Cuiaba. From -this resting-place there are thirty leagues of navigation, on the -course of the river east to the fall of Barra, where it is impeded -and unnavigable above a mile, though a part of it may be passed in -half-loaded and part of it in empty canoes. At the head of this fall -the river Cochim enters the Taquari, and the navigation here quits -the latter for the Cochim. At its mouth it is twenty fathoms broad, -and a league upwards receives on its south bank the Taquari-mirim, a -river nearly as broad as itself. A little above this confluence is -situated its first fall, which is called _da Ilha_, and may be passed -in empty canoes. A league above is the fall of Giquitaya, passed -with half cargoes, and a league and a quarter farther, that of the -Choradeira, the current of which is very rapid. Beyond this is the -fall of Avanhandava-uassu, where the cargoes are carried over-land for -half a mile, and the canoes are conducted through a difficult channel -of three fathoms, at the end of which they are pushed over the rocks -in order to pass the head or cataract. Half a league above is the fall -do Jauru, so called from a river of that name, which enters the Cochim -above it, on the north side. From this confluence upwards there occur -seven falls in the course of five leagues and a half, in the midst -of which distance the river cuts and is enchannelled in a mountain, -through which it runs smoothly, although scarcely five fathoms broad, -and receives on its south side the stream of the Paredão, which is -said to be auriferous. Half a league above the last of the seven falls -before-mentioned are three successive ones, called _Tres Irmãos_, and -at an equal distance above them, that of Das Furnas, which is passed -laboriously with canoes unloaded. From this place the navigation -continues on the Cochim through a succession of falls, until that river -is joined by the Camapuão, eight yards in breadth at its mouth. From -this point to its junction with the Taquari, the course of the Cochim -is thirty leagues. - -The river Camapuã, along which the navigation is continued, becomes -narrower on passing some rivulets that flow into it, and so shallow, -as to be in general scarcely two feet deep, and the canoes are rather -dragged than navigated along its sandy bed. After two leagues of this -labor, they quit the Camapuão-uassu, leaving it on the right hand, -choked with fallen trees, &c., and enter into the Camapuão-mirim, up -which they proceed one league, when they reach the _fazenda_, or -estate, of the same name. This is an important establishment, belonging -to the Portuguese, in the centre of those vast and desert regions -that intervene between the great rivers Paraguay and Parana, ninety -leagues south-south-west, in a direct line from the town of Cuiaba. The -place seems very proper for a Register, to prevent the smuggling of -gold in this route, and to fix the duties on goods passing to Cuiaba -and Matto Grosso. The canoes and cargoes are transported from the -Fazenda de Campauão by land about a mile to the river Sanguixuga, the -principal source of the Rio Pardo. From the end of the land-passages -the navigation continues down the Sanguixuga, and, in the interval of -three leagues, they pass four falls to the Rio Vermelho (so called -from the color of its waters), which enters the Pardo. Half a league -from the mouth of the Vermelho, the Pardo has the fall of the Pedras -de Amolar, and a league below receives on its south side the river -Claro, from which, after proceeding two leagues of level stream, there -occur nine falls in the space of two leagues more. The passage of them -occupies twelve or fourteen days in going up the river, though only one -in returning. Below the last of these, called the Bangue, the river -Sucuriu enters the Pardo on its south side. Three leagues below the -mouth of the Sucuriu is the cataract of Curare, about eight yards high, -to avoid which the canoes are hauled over land, through a passage of a -hundred yards. From this cataract, in the space of ten leagues, there -occur ten falls, which occupy fifteen or twenty days in ascending the -river, though only one in descending. The breadth of the Rio Pardo in -this part is twenty-two fathoms. Two leagues below the last of these -falls is a deep inlet of three hundred and ninety fathoms; half a -league lower the canoes are hauled over a space of land of a hundred -and fifty yards. Half a league further is the fall of Sirga Negra; one -league further, that of Sirga Matto; and a little more than a league -from thence, the great cataract, or Salto da Cajuru, ten yards in -height, to avoid which, the canoes are hauled through a narrow channel -here formed by the river. At a distance equal to the preceding is the -Cajuru-mirim, and immediately after is found the fall of _da Ilha_, the -thirty-third and last on this river. Six leagues below this fall, the -Rio Pardo receives on its north side the river Orelha da Anta;[A] and -four leagues lower down, on the same side, the Orelha da Onça[73], from -the mouth of which, after eleven leagues of navigation, is found the -junction which the river Anhandery-uassu makes from the south with the -Pardo, which, from the passage of Camapuão to this point, completes a -south-east course of forty-five leagues in extent. The Anhandery and -the Pardo, from their confluence, run sixteen leagues of navigation -westward, in one channel, and disembogue in the west bank of the -Parana in lat. about 21°. The velocity of the current of the Rio Pardo -is very irregular: it may be navigated downward in five or six days, -but cannot be ascended in less than twenty or thirty, and that by -hauling, for the force of the stream in some places is too great for -oars. - -The river Parana is of great breadth and weight of water, and is -navigated against its current up to the mouth of the fine river Tieté. -In the first three leagues occurs the island of Manoel Homem. Five -leagues above this island the Rio Verde falls into the Parana, by -a mouth of forty-two fathoms, on its western bank, and at an equal -distance above, on the opposite eastern side, the river Aguapehy -enters, by a mouth apparently above twenty yards wide. Eight leagues -above this river, and on the west side of the Parana, the large river -Sucuriu has its mouth, at least fifty fathoms wide, and, after four -leagues of navigation further, on the same side of the Parana, is -found the mouth of the large and interesting river, the Tieté[74]. The -distance between the rivers Tieté and Pardo, according to the windings -of the Parana, may be estimated at thirty-five leagues; the direction -north, inclining to the east. Passing up the Tieté, in the first three -leagues is found the great Salto de Itapura (a great cascade) to avoid -which, the canoes are dragged sixty fathoms over-land. A league above -is the difficult fall of Itapura-mirim; another league upwards are the -three falls, called Tres Irmaos, and little more than that distance -onward, that of Itupiru, half a league long; two leagues further is the -fall of Uaicurituba-mirim, and in the upper part of it the small river -Sucury enters the Tieté upon its north bank. One league above it is the -fall of Utupiba, a quarter of a league in length. The same distance -above is the fall of Araracangua-uassu, which is passed with unloaded -canoes. Five leagues above this is found the Araracangua-mirim; one -league further, the Arassatuba, and at the same distance, Uaicurituba, -from which, in the space of nine leagues, occur seven falls. Three and -a half leagues above the last of them is that of the Escaramunca, so -called from the abrupt windings of the river among a thousand rocks and -stoppages. Two leagues above this is the large fall of Avanhandava, -where the canoes are unloaded, and their cargoes carried half a mile -over-land[75], and the canoes hauled the greatest part of the way, to -avoid a cataract sixteen yards perpendicular. A league and a half above -this is the fall of Avanhandava-mirim, and very near it, that of the -Campo, from which there are fourteen leagues of clear navigation to -those of the Camboyu-voca, and next to the Tambau-mirim and Uassu, both -within the compass of two leagues. One league further is the fall of -Tambitiririca; three leagues from thence, the Uamicanga, and a little -more than two leagues upwards, the Jacuripipira enters the Tieté on -the north side, and has a mouth fifteen fathoms broad. A league and -a half above this is the Jacuripipira-mirim, six leagues from whence -is the fall of Congouha, a league in length. For the space of eight -leagues from this there are six falls, of which the last is Banharem. -From this it is three leagues and a half to the mouth of the Paraniaba, -thirty-eight fathoms broad: it enters the Tieté on the north; and -the latter river from this point immediately narrows itself to forty -fathoms wide. From the mouth of the Paraniaba there is a navigation -of four leagues to the small fall of Ilha, and fourteen leagues more, -with frequent windings to that of Itahy, near a populous village, -called Jundahy. Six leagues from this is the fall of Pedrenegoa, which -is a quarter of a league long; and half a league above it, the river -Sorecaba, which comes from the town of the same name, in lat. 23° 31′, -empties itself on the south into the Tieté. Near this town are several -mountains, called Guaraceaba, some of which abound with rich oxide of -iron, which on smelting, has proved very good. Upon them grows fine -timber for machinery, and wood of every size, fit for reducing into -charcoal. Numerous streams flow from them, which may be employed to -great advantage, and their base is washed by the river Campanhes, -near the Capivara, both of which empty themselves into the Tieté at -a short distance. From the river Sorecaba it is only six leagues to -Porto Felix, where all the embarkation is now made to Matto Grosso -from S. Paulo, the distance being about twenty-three leagues from -that city. Through this conveyance, salt, iron, ammunition, clothing -for the troops, &c. are sent annually by Government.—Trading parties -frequently arrive at S. Paulo from Cuiaba in the month of February, and -return in April or May. - -Resuming our account of the Paraguay, it is to be observed that the -Embotetieu enters that river five leagues below the mouth of the -Taquari, and on the same side. It is now called Mondego, and was -formerly navigated by the traders from S. Paulo, who entered by the -Anhandery-uassu, the south branch of the Pardo. On the north bank of -the Mondego, twenty leagues above its mouth, the Spaniards founded the -city of Xerez, which the Paulistas destroyed. Ten leagues above this -place, in the mountains that form the upper part of the Embotetieu, -there is a tradition that there are rich mines which were discovered -fifty years ago. One league below the mouth of the Mondego there are -two high insulated mounts fronting each other on the Paraguay: at the -extremity of the southern declivity of the mount on the west side, near -the bank of the river, is the garrison of New Coimbra, founded in 1775; -it is the last and southermost Portuguese establishment on the great -Paraguay. Eleven leagues to the south of Coimbra, on the west side of -the Paraguay, is the mouth of Bahia Negra, a large sheet of water of -six leagues in extent, being five leagues long from north to south: it -receives the waters of the wide-flooded plains and lands to the south -and west of the mountains of Albuquerque. At this bay the Portuguese -possessions on both banks of the Paraguay terminate. From thence the -river continues to lat. 21°, where, on its west bank, is situated a -hill known to the Portuguese by the name of Miguel José, crowned with -a Spanish fort with four pieces of artillery, called Bourbon. Three -leagues above this the little river Guirino falls into the Paraguay -on the east side. Nine leagues to the south of the above fort, and in -lat. 21° 22´, are other mountains, on both sides the Paraguay, which -command this river; for the eastern side is surmounted with a lofty -chain extending to the interior of the country, near which is the -sugar-loaf mount; the opposite side is equally mountainous, but not -so high or extensive; and in the middle of the river there is a high -rocky island, which, with the mountainous banks on each side, forms two -channels of about a musket-shot across. This, in case of war between -the neighbouring nations, would be a post of the highest importance, as -it forms a natural barrier, which would require little fortification -to render it an effectual obstacle to invasion. Here terminate those -extensive inundations, to which both banks of the Paraguay are subject: -they commence at the mouth of the Jauru, and to this point cover -an extent of one hundred leagues from north to south, and forty in -breadth, at their highest floods, forming an apparent lake, which -geographers of former days, as well as some moderns have termed the -Xarayes. This inundation confounds the channel of the great Paraguay -with those of its various confluents, in such a manner that, from -twenty to thirty leagues above their regular mouths, it is possible, in -time of the floods, to navigate across from one to the other, always -in deep water, without ever seeing or approaching the banks of the -Paraguay. During this wonderful inundation, the high mountains and -elevated land which it incloses appear like so many superb islands, -and the lower grounds form a labyrinth of lakes, bays, and pools, many -of which remain after the floods have subsided. From the intricacy of -these inundated plains, the navigation is rendered impracticable to -all who do not unite experience with skill. From this position, (the -only barrier on the Paraguay), the banks downward are in general high -and firm, particularly the eastern or Portuguese side. In lat. 22° 5′, -a considerable river empties itself into it, which the Spaniards, at -the demarcation in 1753, would have to be the Corrientes, whereas the -heads of this river are twenty leagues north of the real Corrientes -mentioned in the treaty. - -Between the Paraguay and Parana there runs from north to south an -extensive chain of mountains, which have the appellation of Amanbay; -they terminate to the south of the river Iguatimy, forming a ridge -running east and west, called Maracayer. From these mountains spring -all the rivers which, from the Taquari southward, enter the Paraguay, -and from the same chain, also, proceed many other rivers, which, taking -a contrary direction, flow into the Parana, one of them, and the most -southerly, being the Igoatimy, which has its mouth in lat. 23° 47′, a -little above the seven falls, or the wonderful cataract of the Parana. -This cataract is a most sublime spectacle, being distinguished to the -eye of the spectator from below by the appearance of six rainbows, and -emitting from its fall a constant cloud of vapors, which impregnates -the air to a great distance. On the north side of the Igoatimy, twenty -leagues from its mouth, the Portuguese had formerly the fortress of -Bauris, which was abandoned in 1777. The Igoatimy has its sources ten -leagues above this place, among high and rugged mountains. The river -Xexuy enters the Paraguay on the east side in lat. 24° 11′, twenty -leagues below the Ipane, another small river, called Ipanemirim, -intervening. - -This is a summary and highly interesting description of Portuguese -Paraguay, to the point where the territory ought (as our Tourist -observes) to extend! and such is the situation of this great river, -that the above-mentioned rivers which concentrate toward the interior -of Brazil, enter it on the eastern side; not one enters it on the -western, from the Jauru to the parallel of the Ipane. Many parts of -the banks of all those rivers are laid under water at the time of the -floods, and the plains are covered to a considerable depth. - -A river of such vast size as the Paraguay, in a temperate and -salubrious climate, abounding with fish, bordered by extensive plains -and high mountains, intersected by so many rivers, bays, lakes, and -forests, must naturally have drawn many of the Indian nations to -inhabit its banks: but, immediately after the discovery of the new -continent, the incursions of the Paulistas and Spaniards seem to have -dispersed and destroyed the numerous tribes: the Jesuits transplanted -many thousands to their settlements on the Uruguay and Parana. Other -nations fled from the avarice of the new settlers to countries -less favored, but more secure by reason of their distance, and the -difficulty of approach. This emigration of one nation to districts -occupied by another, became the fruitful source of inveterate and -sanguinary wars among them, which tended to reduce their numbers. There -are, however, still some Indians left on the borders of the Paraguay, -among whom the Guaycurus, or Cavalier Indians, are principally -distinguished for valour. They occupy the lands from the river Taquari, -extending southwards, along all the rivers that enter the Paraguay on -the eastern side, as far as the river Ipane, and in like manner, on -the opposite bank, from the mountains of Albuquerque downwards. They -have made war repeatedly on the Spaniards and Portuguese, without ever -being subdued. They are armed with lances of extraordinary length, -bows, arrows, &c. They make long incursions on horseback into the -neighbouring territories; they procure horses in exchange for stout -cotton cloaks, called _Ponches_, which they manufacture. There are -other Indian nations inhabiting these large tracts, some of whom have -intermixed both with the Portuguese and Spaniards, there being few of -the latter on any part of the confines without some traces of Indian -physiognomy. - -From the river Xexuy, downwards, the Paraguay takes its general course -southwards for thirty-two leagues to the city of Assumpcion, the -capital of Paraguay, and the residence of its governor. This city is -situated on an obtuse angle made by the eastern bank of the river; the -population is by no means trifling, and there are some Portuguese -among the inhabitants. The government is of vast extent, and its -total population is said to amount to near 120,000 souls. The land is -fertile, and contains many rich farms: its principal produce is the -_matte_, which is exported to Tucuman and Buenos Ayres, from whence -it is sent to various parts of the Spanish dominions, along the coast -of Chili and Peru, being a general article of consumption among all -ranks of people. Its other products are hides, tobacco, and sugar. From -Buenos Ayres large boats arrive at the city of Assumpcion, after two or -three months’ passage; the only difficulty in navigating is the great -weight of the waters of the Paraguay, which flow with great rapidity: -but this disadvantage is lessened by favorable winds, which blow the -greater part of the year from the south. - -Six leagues below Assumpcion, on the western side of the Paraguay, the -river Pilcomayo enters that river by its first mouth; its second is -fourteen or sixteen leagues lower. In this space some other smaller -rivers enter on the eastern side, and amongst them the Tibiquari, on an -arm of which, twenty leagues south-east from Assumpcion, is Villa Rica, -a large Spanish town, with much property in cattle on its extensive -plains. The river Vermelho enters the west side of the Paraguay in lat. -26° 50′: on a remote upper branch of this river is the town of Salto, -near an accessible fall; it is an important point to the Spaniards, who -are transporting their goods from Buenos Ayres, Tucuman, &c. to Upper -Peru. - - -_The River Parana_, - -or Great River, which the first discoverers considered as the -chief, on account of its abundant waters, unites with the eastern -side of the Paraguay in lat. 27° 25´, and their united streams take -the name of the Rio de la Plata, which originated in the following -circumstance:—Martim de Sousa, the first donatary of the _capitania_ -of St. Vicente, furnished Aleixo Garcio, with an adequate escort to -explore the hitherto untrodden wilds to the west of the extensive coast -of Brazil. This intrepid Portuguese, by the route of the Tieté, reached -the Paraguay, which he crossed, and penetrated considerably into the -interior, from whence he returned, it is said, loaded with silver, and -some gold: but he halted on the Paraguay, and waited for the coming of -his son, a youth of tender years, with some of his people, whilst he -sent forward an account of the discovery. He was surprised by a body of -Indians, who killed him, took his son prisoner, and carried off all his -riches: the year following, sixty Portuguese, who were sent in search -of Garcia, shared the same fate. The Spaniards who first settled on -this river, seeing so much silver amongst these Indians, and supposing -it to be the produce of the country, called the river La Plata.[76] - -The Parana derives its principal sources from the west side of the -mountains of Mantiqueira, twenty-five leagues west of the town of -Paraty. - - - - -CHAP. XIX. - -_Account of the Capitania of Rio Grande._ - - -THE _capitania_ of Rio Grande is one of the most important in Brazil. -It is of considerable extent, and is bounded by the _capitania_ of -S. Paulo on the north, Matto Grosso on the west, and by the Spanish -territories, between it and the Rio de la Plata, on the south. - -Its port is situated about 32° south; it is dangerous to enter, first -from its being shoal water, and next, from a violent sea always -running, and from the shifting of the sands. Notwithstanding these -inconveniences, there is a great trade carried on from this place to -all the ports of Brazil, in brigs and small vessels that do not draw -above ten feet water. After passing the bar, which is long, they enter -into an inland sea, or lagoon, of deep water, and navigate to the north -and west to its head, where the principal river runs into it. To the -southward is the lagoon Meni, and the neutral ground; a little to the -southward of which is the Spanish fortress of Santa Theresa, lately put -in repair. - -The principal town is defended by many forts, some of which are upon -islets. Since it was taken from the Spaniards by General Coimbra, -the Portuguese have much strengthened it, and now there is a very -considerable force of cavalry, horse-artillery, and foot-soldiers; so -that at a short notice, with the addition of the militia, a body of -five or seven thousand men might be calculated upon. - -The climate is considered very fine, and the soil so productive, that -this district may be called the granary of Brazil; the wheat grown -here is shipped to all the ports on the coast where bread is used. -Farming, however, is carried on in so slovenly a manner, that the grain -is always rough, bad skinned, and extremely foul. It is packed in raw -hides, which are sewed up like sacks; it swells, and heats frequently -on the passage from Rio Grande to the more northerly ports; and often, -after landing in Rio de Janeiro, it is left on the quay exposed for -days to the rain. - -The vicinity of Rio Grande is extremely populous; in a circuit of -twenty leagues, the inhabitants, including the troops, are estimated -at 100,000. Their principal occupations are, the breeding of cattle, -for which the immense tract of pastureland is so well calculated; the -drying and preparing of hides, and the making of _charque_, or what is -called, in the river Plata, jug-beef. It is prepared in the following -manner:—After the ox is skinned, the flesh is stripped from the bones -in as large flakes as possible, in some degree resembling sides of -bacon: it is put into hot brine, where it remains from twelve to forty -hours, according to the thickness. It is then taken out, drained, and -dried in the sun, afterwards shipped to all parts of Brazil. It is a -general article of consumption among the lower classes and negroes, and -is not unfrequently seen at respectable tables, being in taste somewhat -similar to hung-beef. It constitutes the general food for the sailors, -and forms part of almost every cargo sent out from this port. It has -found its way to the West Indies, where it is in great request, and has -been frequently sold, during the war, at nine-pence or a shilling per -pound. The _charque_ prepared at Rio Grande is much superior to that -brought from the river Plata. During the time that the English troops -were in possession of Monte Video, in consequence of an apprehension -that the cattle might be driven away, and they be in want of supplies, -large quantities were contracted for at S. Pedro, which arrived at -Monte Video, though not wanted. They were afterwards shipped for the -West India market. - -The quantity of hides exported from hence is almost incredible; they -furnish many vessels with entire cargoes, which are carried to the -northern ports, and from thence embarked for Europe. The annual -average may be estimated at not less than three hundred thousand. - -Tallow forms another considerable article of commerce, which in general -is shipped in the crude state, and not refined, as in the river Plata. -The greater part is consumed in Brazil, and the dealers find it -preferable to refine the article on the spot, where they manufacture it -into candles. It is packed in waste raw-hide packages.[77] - -Horns and horse-hair form an inferior branch of the commerce, and are -shipped from this port in great quantities. - -The above are the staple productions of Rio Grande, which give -employment perhaps to a hundred sail of coasters, some of which make -two or three voyages in a year, carrying thither rum, sugar, tobacco, -cotton, rice, coarse manufactured cotton, sweet meats, &c.[78] - -Of European merchandise, they bring wine, olive-oil, glass, and a great -variety of English commodities, particularly iron, (though they much -prefer the Swedish), baizes, coatings, stout woollen cloths, Manchester -velverets of various qualities and colors, printed cottons, calicoes, -muslins, handkerchiefs, silk, cotton, and worsted hosiery, hats, -flannels, &c. - -Sail-cloth, cordage, anchors, tar, paints, fowling pieces, -ammunition of all sorts, hardware of every description, particularly -slaughter-knives, some plated ware, and fancy articles. A great part of -the goods are conveyed upon horses into the interior, where they are -carried from house to house for sale or exchange. - -During the old system, so lately as within these four years, a most -lucrative trade was here carried on with the Spaniards, who came -in numbers, and most eagerly bought up the tobacco, and such of -the English manufactures as could be transported on horseback, at -great prices. Thus Rio Grande and its vicinity became very enviable -situations, where considerable fortunes were made in a little time, -as the goods bought were much in request, though contraband, and -were paid for in specie. This trade, so advantageous to each party, -is now entirely ruined through the eagerness of our speculators in -over-stocking the markets, and selling for two what would have been -eagerly bought for six. - -The neighbourhood of the capital is an unpleasant place, being -surrounded with sand and sandhills of no inconsiderable size, formed by -the wind blowing the sand in heaps in various directions, which become -half indurated, and appear stratified. The excessively high winds, -which frequently prevail, blow the sand so as to be very disagreeable, -as it enters every part of the house. - -The cattle bred in this _capitania_ are very numerous, and large herds -are brought hither from the Spanish frontiers. - -The large river Uruguay rises in this _capitania_, and empties itself -into the river Plata, a little above Buenos Ayres; there are numerous -others of less consequence, the banks of which are well stored with -wood. Some attempts were lately made, by miners sent from Villa Rica, -to work gold-washings. In the neighbourhood of the capital they have -coal, a specimen of which I have seen. From the same district, a -gentleman shewed me a substance which he could not define; on seeing -it, I asked him if he was certain that it came from thence; he assured -me that he was: I then told him that it was wolfram; and stated that -this metal strongly indicated tin, of which it is frequently an -attendant in Europe, though probably it may not be so in America. It -was a rude lump, not rounded by friction, and weighed at least a pound. -Of the geology and general features of the rocks of this _capitania_ -very little is known. - -In various parts _jaguars_, and other beasts of prey, are very common. -Among the graniverous animals are _capivaras_ of great size, deer -in vast herds, and _armadillos_, which afford excellent eating when -roasted. Of birds, there are ostriches of the dark-colored species, -which go about in flocks of great numbers. There are eagles, hawks, -and other birds of prey, particularly a species of crow of the vulture -kind. Cranes, storks, wild turkeys, ducks, partridges, horned plovers, -goat-suckers, horned owls, small parrots, cardinals, humming birds, &c. -are found in great numbers. - -The inhabitants are, generally speaking, athletic and robust, and -so extremely fond of riding, as not to go the smallest distance on -foot. They are esteemed excellent horsemen, and greatly surpass their -neighbours in dexterity and agility, particularly in catching cattle -with the balls and the _lazo_. But it ought to be understood that the -Spaniards have Peons on their farms, who are more nearly allied to the -Indians than to them, whereas the Portuguese have Creolians, bred up to -the business, or expert negroes, who are inferior to none in this labor. - -It is singular to Europeans, that in this fine climate, where the -thermometer is frequently below 40° Fahrenheit, and where are bred -as fine cows as any in the world, and every convenience is at hand -for dairies, neither butter nor cheese is made, except on particular -occasions; nor is milk even for coffee to be procured at all times. It -may probably be urged that the production of these articles would not -answer the purpose of the farmers: but certainly it might be made to -do so; and I hesitate not to say, that a hundred cows, kept for dairy -purposes, would yield to any man capable of rearing, training, and -managing them, a greater profit than any other part of husbandry. This -colony might easily be made to supply the neighbouring districts, and -even the whole of Brazil, with these articles. - -A number of years ago some hemp was grown here by order of Government: -it proved excellent, but was abandoned because it was troublesome to -dress, and probably did not yield sufficient profit, owing to the high -price of labor. - -In some places grapes are very good, and probably wine will soon be -made from them, as the restraint laid by the mother-country upon her -colonies is now removed. - -Troops have been for a considerable time pouring into Rio Grande, the -result was, Monte Video taken possession of by the Portuguese. This -so enraged Artigas, a Spanish officer and great land owner, that he -rallied the inhabitants of the country, and, being joined by the Peons -and negroes, made war against the new possessors, (from whom he had -probably received indignities and injury), issuing orders for reprisals -at sea, and carrying on a desolating warfare. But this was not all—his -people, under no discipline, plundered the good _Fazendistas_, and -robbed and murdered private individuals; thus changing the scene from -peace, happiness, and contentment, to anarchy, confusion, rapine, -plunder, and murder. - -A great many rivers run into Rio Grande, which has more the appearance -of a vast lake or inland sea than a river. On the banks of these -rivers we find many settlers enjoying most beautiful situations, and -lands to a great extent. Here may be said to be the finest situations -for growing wheat; falls of water for mills, and excellent water -conveyance to ships wanting cargoes, who might with the greatest -facility load and transport it all over Brazil, the Cape, Isle of -France, &c. An active people would soon enjoy a trade of their own -instead of importing flour from the United States, which is even now -the case. - - - - -CHAP. XX. - -_General Observations on the Trade from England to Brazil._ - - -HAVING, in a preceding part of this work, stated the importance of Rio -de Janeiro as a port which, from its locality, appears destined by -nature to become the metropolis of a vast empire, and the centre of an -extensive commerce, it may not be improper in this place to treat more -at large on this interesting subject. - -The ships best calculated for trade from England are those which carry -about four hundred tons, and sail well: it is particularly necessary -that they should have the latter quality; for, if they have not, the -voyage from thence to England is frequently rendered very tedious -by their being driven too far to the westward by the north-east -trade-wind. Owing to this circumstance, it is not uncommon for a -packet, or fast-sailing ship, to make a passage from the coast of -Brazil to England in five or six weeks, when a heavy-sailing vessel is -double that time in arriving at her destination. The best season for -sailing from England, and that which affords the greatest probability -of making a short passage, is the month of February or March, because -then the north-east winds prevail. I should advise crossing the line in -not less than 22°, nor more than 25° west longitude, if the destination -be the Plata or Rio de Janeiro, as I have twice experienced very long -calms in crossing the line between 19° and 20°. Ships bound to Bahia, -Pernambuco, and ports more northerly, will of course cross the line -more to the westward, as they will have nothing to fear: but the -south-west trade-wind would generally cause ships going farther south -to fall in with the land too soon. Should that be the case, I would -advise them, if they make the land to the north of the Abrolhos[79], -to keep in-shore, as the land-breeze is frequently from the northward -until mid-day. The ports on this coast are in general good and secure, -nevertheless it is highly desirable to be provided with good anchors -and cables, particularly in the Rio de la Plata. In the Portuguese -territories the port-charges are not so expensive as formerly; a dollar -per day is exacted for anchorage, which forms the principal charge. I -particularly recommend that all homeward-bound ships should lay in a -sufficiency of necessary stores, especially of water, so as to make the -passage without being obliged to go into the Western Isles, as there -the port-charges and attendant expenses are very exorbitant, though the -only articles wanted may be a few casks of water, and a hundred weight -or two of bread. - -Ships are loaded in Rio de Janeiro, and other ports of Brazil, as well -as in the Plata, by lighters, which are very expensive, and difficult -to be procured when many ships are receiving their cargoes; good boats -are extremely useful and necessary. - -When a vessel enters any of the ports, the health-boat and custom-boat -make a visit before she anchors, and their report is immediately -made; after which, proper officers, called _guardas_, are sent on -board. These men in general are not very liberally provided for; they -are extremely civil and accommodating, and ought to be treated with -respect. Since the establishment of the treaty of commerce between this -government and that of Brazil the contraband trade has been almost done -away; for the duties are now much reduced, and the accommodation which -the judge and subordinate officers of the custom-house are disposed to -allow, is such, as to render that nefarious practice unnecessary. - -It may not be improper in this place to describe the consequences -produced in Rio de Janeiro by the excessive commercial speculations -into which our merchants entered, immediately after the emigration of -the Court of Portugal, and which could only be equalled by those which -followed our expeditions to the Rio de la Plata. - -Owing to the incredible competition or struggle among our merchants, -who should send most ships and cargoes to a country, whose civilized -population, exclusive of slaves, did not exceed eight hundred thousand -souls, (one-third, at least, of whom may be said to make use only of -what their land produces), it is natural to suppose that the market -would be almost instantly overstocked. So great and so unexpected was -the influx of English manufactures into Rio de Janeiro, within a few -days after the arrival of the Prince, that the rent of houses to put -them into became enormously dear. The bay was covered with ships, -and the custom-house soon overflowed with goods: even salt, casks of -ironmongery, and nails, salt-fish, hogsheads of cheese, hats, together -with an immense quantity of crates and hogsheads of earthen and glass -ware, cordage, bottled and barrelled porter, paints, gums, resin, -tar, &c. were exposed, not only to the sun and rain, but general -depredation. The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro, and more particularly -some of the Creolians and strangers from the interior, thought that -these goods were placed there for their benefit, and extolled the -goodness and generosity of the English, who strewed the beach to -a great extent with articles for which their own countrymen had -heretofore charged them such high prices! It is true that the gentlemen -entrusted with these valuable consignments did apply for sentinels -to be placed to guard the articles thus exposed, and their request -was immediately complied with. The result was such as might easily -have been anticipated from such watchmen, many of whom did not fail -to profit largely by the appointment. In the course of some weeks the -beach began to assume a less crowded appearance; some few of the goods -were taken to the residences of their owners, others were removed; but -to what place, or by whom, there was no way of ascertaining; and a -very great proportion was sold at the custom-house _for the benefit of -the underwriters_. This stratagem, then so frequently practised, (and -certainly deserving of the severest reprehension), afterwards operated -as a very serious injury to the regular sale of articles; for, as the -market was so overstocked, scarcely any one would offer money for -goods, except at the custom-house sales. As the depreciation continued, -numberless packages were there exposed for sale, in part damaged, or -apparently so. Indeed, little more than the mark of a cord on the -outside of a single article, or a corner discolored, in a package -however large, was a sufficient pretext for presuming and pronouncing -the whole to be damaged. Great quantities of goods were brought to the -hammer in the custom-house warehouses, under every disadvantage; thus -the owners recovered the amount insured for, and the insurers lost the -difference between that sum and the price they were sold at, also the -attendant expenses. Many of the underwriters will, it is to be feared, -retain a lasting remembrance of the sales which took place at Rio de -Janeiro, and other parts of South America, _for their benefit_. - -To the serious losses thus occasioned by an overstocked market, and -by the sacrifice of goods at whatever price could be obtained, may be -added another, which originated in the ignorance of many persons who -sent out articles to a considerable amount not at all suited to the -country; one speculator, of wonderful foresight, sent large invoices -of various sorts of stays for ladies who never heard of such armour; -another sent skates, for the use of a people who are totally uninformed -that water can become ice; a third sent out a considerable assortment -of the most elegant coffin-furniture, not knowing that coffins are -never used by the Brazilians, or in the Plata. To these absurd -speculations may be added iron-stoves and fire-irons, candles, and -numerous others, particularly in articles of taste: elegant services -of cut glass were little appreciated by men accustomed to drink out -of a horn or a cocoa-nut-shell; and brilliant chandeliers were still -less valued in a country where only lamps that afforded a gloomy light, -were used. Superfine woollen cloths were equally ill-suited to the -market; no one thought them sufficiently strong. An immense quantity -of high-priced saddles, and thousands of whips[80], were sent out to -a people as incapable of adopting them as they were of knowing their -convenience. They were astonished to see Englishmen ride on such -saddles; nor could they imagine any thing more insecure. Of the bridles -scarcely any use could be made, as the bit was not calculated to keep -the horse or mule in subordination: these articles were of course -sacrificed. Great quantities of the nails and ironmongery were useless, -as they were not calculated for the general purposes of the people. -Large cargoes of Manchester goods were sent; and, in a few months, more -arrived than had been consumed in the course of twenty years preceding. -No discrimination was used in the assortment of these articles, with -respect either to quantity or fineness, so that common prints were -disposed of at less than a shilling a yard, and frequently in barter. -Fish from Newfoundland met with a similar fate; also porter, large -quantities of which, in barrels, arrived among a people, of whom a few -only had tasted that article as a luxury. How the shippers in London, -and other British ports, could imagine that porter, would at once -become a general beverage, it is difficult to conceive, especially -when sent in barrels. These cargoes, being unsaleable, were of course -warehoused, and of course spoiled. Newfoundland fish, that was -generally sold at from twelve to twenty dollars _per quintal_, was now -unsaleable at four, and in many instances did not pay warehouse-room. -Earthenware was perhaps rather more favorably received than many of the -former articles, for plates, &c. soon came into general use. Having -enumerated various commodities which suffered a general depreciation, -it may be sufficient to add that many invoices of fancy goods, and such -as do not constitute a staple trade, were sold at from sixty to seventy -_per cent._ under costs and charges, and others were totally lost. To -enter more into detail would be unnecessary: it is hoped that the trade -will in time find its regular course, and that the adventurers will -derive from it some compensation for their former losses, though no -possible change can repair the total ruin which numbers have incurred. -Experience will now have fully shown the fallacy of those golden hopes -which some persons conceived from the reputed wealth of South America, -and we shall no longer hear of those absurdities which characterised -the first commercial speculations to the river Plata. What must have -been the delusions of those traders who sent out tools, formed with a -hatchet on one side and a hammer on the other, for the conveniency of -breaking the rocks, and cutting the precious metals from them, as if -they imagined that a man had only to go into the mountains, and cut out -as much gold as would pay for the articles he wanted! - -Other evils resulted from these ill-judged and excessive speculations -to South America, which might naturally have been anticipated. The -first was, that the produce was bought up with such avidity that many -articles were soon double their ordinary value, and continued to rise -as our manufactures lowered. But this was not all: the purchasers -suffered equally from their ignorance of the quality of the articles, -as from their eagerness in purchasing them. For instance; any kind -of sebaceous matter was greedily bought for tallow; and numberless -hides, spoiled in the drying and eaten by the grub, met with ready -sale. Little attention was paid to the state they were in; and thus it -frequently happened that lots and cargoes of those articles, instead of -reimbursing the adventurer to whom they were consigned, scarcely paid -freight and charge. This was also the case with coffee and other staple -articles. Many gentlemen, more knowing than others, sent home lots of -curious wood, and even entered into the illicit trade of shipping the -dye-wood, which generally proved very disadvantageous, as the wood of -that species grown in the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro is very inferior -in quality to that of Pernambuco, from whence that trade is carried -on for account of the Crown. The folly of speculation did not stop -here: precious stones appeared to offer the most abundant source of -riches; the general calculation was made upon the price at which they -sold in London: but every trader bought them, more or less, at the -price at which they were offered; invoices of goods were bartered for -some, which in London would sell for, comparatively, a trifle, as they -were taken without discrimination as to quality or perfection; green -tourmalines were sold for emeralds, crystals for topazes, and both -common stones and glass have been bought as diamonds to a considerable -amount. Gold and diamonds were well known to be produced in Brazil; -and their being by law contraband, was a sufficient temptation to -eager speculators who had never before seen either in their native -state. False diamonds were weighed with scrupulousness, and bought -with avidity, to sell by the rules stated by Jefferies. Gold-dust, -as it is commonly called, appeared in no inconsiderable quantity, -and, after being weighed with equal exactness, was bought or bartered -for. But previous to this many samples underwent the following easy -and ingenious process:—The brass pans purchased at the stores were -filed, and mixed with the gold in the proportion of from ten to twenty -_per cent._ according to the opinion which the seller formed of the -sagacity of the person with whom he had to deal: and thus, by a simple -contrivance, some of our countrymen re-purchased at three or four -guineas per ounce the very article which they had before sold at 2s. -6d. per pound!!! - -In enumerating the losses occasioned by the depreciation of goods, I -have omitted to notice the heavy expenses upon them after the purchase, -as packing, shipping, convoy-duty, freight, insurance, commission, and -other incidental charges. Then suppose any staple article to be bought; -there are the expenses of commission for buying of warehouse-room, -shipping and the attendant fees, freight, and insurance; and, on the -arrival of the merchandize in England, there are duties, dockage, -warehouse-room, and many other items which leave no small interest in -the hands of those who do the business. - -It is scarcely possible to imagine, much less to describe, the -disappointment which prevailed among the young supercargoes a few -months after their arrival in South America, particularly among those -who had orders not to sell the goods entrusted to them lower than the -prices specified in their invoices. - -They could scarcely awaken themselves from the chimerical delusion -that their mind was filled with; they disbelieved every thing, -and continued to write to their employers to send out more goods, -thinking the riches they had so fondly anticipated must yet roll -down in torrents from the interior. The heart-breaking letters of -those who sent them out, expressing the most poignant distress for -want of remittances, at length awakened them, and their sanguine -expectations of incalculable riches, heaps of dollars, or bars of -gold, began to vanish. Many of the inhabitants came to look at their -stores, but few offered to buy; and, incredible as it may appear, yet -it is true, that when goods were offered to them at half the original -cost, they invariably exclaimed, “Very dear.” Scenes of this kind I -have repeatedly witnessed, and could scarcely suppress my indignation -at seeing goods thus depreciated, which a few months before were so -eagerly sought after, and bought at ten times the amount. Gentlemen -consignees so situated were at a loss how to act: the duties, rents, -charges, and other expenses were high, and must peremptorily be paid; -their only resource was to open a shop or room for the purpose of -selling their goods by retail, as the inhabitants wanted them. - -These young men most unfortunately had calculated upon doing business -only in the large way, similar to our most opulent mercantile -establishments: on their arrival they took the best houses, set apart -their hours for morning rides and attending to business, for going to -their country seats[81], and dinner-parties. The idea of vending by -retail was a bitter which destroyed all their pleasing anticipations of -doing business in style: they thought themselves merchants, expecting -to sell at any price they pleased to ask, and to buy at what they -thought proper to offer! and could not stoop to be shopkeepers; many -of them, rather than yield to that, sent goods to auctions, and sold -them at what they would fetch, thus rendering a ruinous account to -their employers. Others with more prudence accommodated themselves to -circumstances, and were not offended at being asked for a pair of boots -or a hat. These persons reaped all the advantage of the trade, as they -got their price by selling to those whose necessities prompted them to -purchase, and were ever ready to sell by the package when opportunity -offered. Many of these young men, it is true, have been deservedly much -blamed by the consignors, who have expressed great dissatisfaction -at their extravagant mode of living, and at their proceedings, both -in the disposal of the property sent to them, and in the purchase of -merchandize to return; these complaints were justly founded, though -something may be said in extenuation of the former, not only on the -ground of their want of knowledge, but the unexampled situation of -affairs; for a respectable and useful clerk, however capable of copying -an invoice, or attending his employer’s counting-house, must make a -very poor figure so situated, being very incapable of ascertaining or -stating the merits of manufactured goods, and still less qualified to -purchase the staple articles and general produce of the country. These -severe and grievous disadvantages frequently gave the Brazilians the -double advantage of buying below the market-price, and of selling above -it. - -From these and many other unfortunate and disastrous circumstances, -the trade could not fail to become gradually worse and worse; hence it -is very natural to imagine that necessitous consignors, eager to see -the riches which they had so long and so vainly anticipated, became -more pressing for remittances. One disappointment succeeded another; -remonstrances were made; and powers of attorney were at length sent -out almost by cargoes; property was removed from one consignee to -another, at great expense, but to no purpose. At home the greatest -confusion prevailed for want of money, until that lamentable and -unfortunate epoch, when the columns of the Gazette were filled with the -names of those very respectable merchants, who, before those ruinous -speculations, were in a state of affluence. Many of those to whom -immense sums were entrusted, have not even yet returned to their native -country. - -Misunderstandings frequently arose between the English and the -Portuguese, either in making contracts, or in not complying with them; -and they were continually prosecuting each other for injuries which -both parties professed to have sustained. These litigations might have -terminated very expensively, if not otherwise seriously, had not the -wise measures of the _Juiz Conservador_ prevented the perplexities of -legal proceedings. The appeals of the English were always heard; they -were strangers whom His Royal Highness protected, and they ever found -in the Conde de Linhares a firm and powerful friend. - -In the Plata, the monied men bought very largely of the cargoes which -first arrived, and were afterwards considerable losers by the overflow -which took place, when men of less capital bought for ten thousand -dollars, what a few weeks before sold for fifteen or twenty. In Rio de -Janeiro the case was somewhat different; for the monied men thought the -English manufactures inexhaustible, and therefore kept back their gold, -leaving the trade principally to men of a secondary class, who bought -with great caution, and sold very promptly, for fear of a further -depreciation. - -Having stated the ruinous consequences of sending out goods not -saleable, it may be proper to point out the articles in general -consumption, though even these may be sold at great loss, if the -markets be overstocked, for trade must depend on the wants and -necessities of the consumer. If an individual possesses seven or eight -hats, as many coats, &c. it is unreasonable to suppose that he can want -more, though he may be tempted to purchase, if offered at very reduced -prices: but even that must have an end, and a trade must soon expire -where one party is constantly the loser. This has been too generally -the result of our late speculations in South America, into which people -hurried without calculation or foresight. - -Iron and steel are articles for which there is a general and constant -demand. The smiths prefer Swedish iron, as they have been always -accustomed to it, and do not know how to heat and work the English. The -next article to be mentioned is salt, in which the Brazilians are by no -means nice. It is made and loaded at one or two places on the coast, -but that which is most esteemed comes from the Cape de Verde islands; -that brought from Liverpool is generally used in the sea-ports. Common -woollens, baizes, and some stout fine cloths, particularly blue and -black, are generally worn; also kerseymeres. Cotton goods of almost -every description, especially if low priced, meet with ready sale, -as do German linens. Hats of all sorts, (particularly dress-hats), -and boots and shoes of English manufacture, have of late been sold -in great quantities; the leather is much preferable to that made in -Brazil. Common and finer earthenware, and glass; some sorts of fine -and coarse hardware, and some plated goods, as candles now begin to be -used instead of lamps. Bottled porter, Cheshire cheese, butter, cheap -furniture, tin-plate, brass, lead in various shapes, shot of all sizes, -gunpowder, drugs, some philosophical instruments, books, low-priced -paper, watches, telescopes, salt provisions, as hams, tongues, and -barrelled pork, low-priced saddlery, and most of all, India and other -goods fit for the African coast. Marble mortars, mirrors, and many -fancy articles of less note. Silk and cotton hosiery, fashionable -dresses for ladies, particularly fine stockings and shoes. - -It is to be observed that the mother-country still continues to send -oil, wine, brandy, linens, cottons, some silks, and a variety of -articles of inferior consequence. India goods, consisting chiefly -of cottons, are sent from the Malabar coast, and China goods are in -great plenty. From North America are imported flour, salt provisions, -turpentine, tar, staves, household furniture, &c. - -Naval stores, clothing for sailors, arms, &c. may be said to be -generally in demand. - -The staple articles of trade from Brazil and the river Plate which are -most in demand in this country, when its markets are not overstocked, -are cotton, sugar, coffee, hides, tallow of good quality, horns, horse -and cow hair, fur-skins, and feathers. Brazil is well calculated for -growing sugar, having every convenience of situation, and all the -materials requisite for machinery. To the above may be added some -peculiar woods; that beautiful species, called _jacarandá_, in England -denominated rose-wood, is generally in demand. I do not say any thing -of indigo, as it is of inferior quality. Rice is cultivated to great -extent. Tobacco, it is to be hoped, will be better cured, to suit the -English market; for no where can a soil and climate be found more -favorable to the production of that plant than in Brazil. - -In offering, by way of conclusion, a more detailed account of the -resources of this rich and extensive country, I shall for obvious -reasons avoid all speculation on the political changes now operating in -the mother country, as well as in her colonies, and direct my remarks -solely to commercial matters. According to recent estimates the annual -value of British goods imported into Brazil exceeds three millions -sterling, one half of which may be assigned to Rio de Janeiro, from -whence the returns are made generally in produce, consisting of gold, -diamonds, and precious stones, sugars, cottons, hides, tobacco, tallow, -wax, indigo, woods, and many other articles. - -The commerce of Bahia ranks next in importance to that of Rio, and a -considerable proportion of it is conducted by English merchants. The -returns are principally made in produce, and this circumstance secures -to the native cultivator an eminent advantage over the foreign trader. -The main articles of produce are sugar, cotton, and tobacco. The annual -exports of the cotton, may be stated at from 30,000 to 36,000 bags. -Its quality varies according to the district in which it is produced; -that which is brought hither from the southern parts of the province -of Pernambuco, is called _foras_, in contradistinction with the cotton -of Bahia, which is denominated _dentros_. The former is considered of -superior staple, being stronger and more silky, but it seldom arrives -in a clean state, or free from seeds and other substances negligently -left by the planters. The _dentros_, though neither so strong nor so -silky as the _foras_, are generally much better dressed, and hence they -are considered of almost equal value. Much of this cotton is grown in -the extensive plantations near Villa Nova do Principe. Eight ninths of -the cotton shipped at Bahia is exported to England, and principally to -the port of Liverpool. - -The quantity of sugar annually exported from hence is very -considerable, and in some years has exceeded a million of -_arrobas_[82]. The growth of tobacco varies according to the season; -an average crop has been estimated at 600,000 _arrobas_. One third, -and frequently one half of a crop is rejected as unfit for shipment to -Europe. The refuse is sent to the Portuguese possessions in Africa, -but the demand for it has greatly diminished since the abolition of -the slave trade in that continent, north of the equator, that being -the quarter in which it was principally consumed. A great quantity is -exported to the Plata, and from thence is sent to various parts of the -interior. - -Upwards of 150 sail of vessels have been dispatched from hence in the -course of one year, of which number one third was destined for the -ports of the mother country, and little short of one third for those -of Great Britain; besides the staple articles of cotton, sugar, and -tobacco, the exports include large quantities of hides, molasses, rum, -and woods. Many large and most excellent ships have been built at this -place, the timber of which is of a superior quality. - -Pernambuco is celebrated for producing the best cotton in Brazil, and -it owes this distinction to the careful scrutiny which that article -undergoes. After inspection it is divided into three qualities; the -second quality is allowed to pass with the first, and the purchaser -receives for it an allowance of 500 _reas per arroba_ from the planter; -the third quality is wholly rejected[83]. The bags are then weighed, -and the export duty charged on them. About eighty thousand bags are -annually exported, of which sixty thousand may be considered as -destined for Great Britain, and the residue principally to Lisbon. The -annual export of sugar has been estimated at 25,000 cases, of which -nearly one half goes to England, and the rest to the mother country. -This product is considerably on the increase. - -The principal exports from Maranham are cotton, rice, hides, and Indian -corn. Its cotton ranks next in quality to that of Pernambuco, and -obtains a price very little inferior. The quantity annually exported -has been estimated at sixty thousand bags, of which more than three -fourths may be considered as destined for the English market. The -annual export of rice exceeds three hundred thousand _arrobas_. It is -calculated that the trade of this port employs yearly upwards of one -hundred sail, of which one half are destined for England. Sugar is -beginning to form a considerable article of commerce at this port, many -extensive plantations having been made. Sweetmeats and confectionery -are cured here, and at the above mentioned places in great perfection, -and are exported in quantities almost beyond credibility. - -The foreign commerce of Para may be considered still in its infancy, -as its principal city, Belem, is accessible only to vessels of small -burthen. Its cottons are considered little inferior to those of Bahia. -Its other exports consist of excellent cocoa, coffee, rice, in great -quantities, sarsaparilla, raw and tanned hides, gums, various drugs, -some sugar, molasses, timber, and curious woods. The vast territories -of this _capitania_ are but little known, and very thinly peopled. - -In terminating the present work, the author cannot but express his -earnest hope, that the new order of things now instituted in the -mother country may tend to the permanent welfare of Brazil, to the -developement of its rich and various resources, to the intellectual, -moral, and social improvement of its people, to the extension of their -commerce, and to the continuance of that connection with Great Britain, -which has hitherto contributed, and may henceforth more largely -contribute, to the prosperity of both nations. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -IN page 368 of this work, I have stated, that it was my intention to -enquire into, and to make some observations on the present regulations -relative to diamonds. These beautiful gems have been found in such -abundance in Brazil, as to supply not only Europe, but Asia; as those -of India are become extremely scarce, diamonds from Brazil have been -often sent thither, and have usurped their name. The question we are -at present about to examine is, how far it would be consistent with -the interest of the Portuguese Government to permit the searching -for diamonds, in the same way as for gold, under peculiar laws. The -monopoly is ineffectual, because the diamonds are found in so many -parts widely distant from each other, that it is impossible to prevent -the searching for them. The attempt to preserve grounds known to -contain these riches, by forming a _distacamento_, has not produced -any good effect; and it is by no means improbable, that the best of -these (supposed) preserved lands are already worked, therefore the -soldiers are guarding the casket after the jewels have been taken away. -How many places might be mentioned (out of the district of Cerro do -Frio), where troops of negroes daily work! It has been stated, that -government probably receive little more than a moiety of the gems -found at their own expense; if so, it is certainly time to abandon -a trade so exposed, or to change the system altogether. Is it the -interest of Brazil to keep her enterprizing subjects in continual -torture and fear respecting these precious gifts, which the bounteous -hand of Providence has placed there? But indeed as his majesty’s -subjects increase and become more enlightened, this severe monopoly -will destroy itself and soon begin to give way to a wise and political -government, which will prefer a rich and powerful population in the -very heart of the colony to a few individuals. How happens it, that -diamonds, in the hands of private persons, meet a more ready sale than -those of government? Because they are better stones, and are offered -in quantities more convenient for the purchasers: next, because they -can be sold cheaper since they cost less. If diamonds were subject to -pay a fifth, government would have such power as to enable them to -command the market; and if they should become cheaper in Europe, the -demand for them would become more general, therefore their price would -not be likely to fall in Brazil; and, even if it did, is it not the -blindest policy for the court to put such a yoke round the neck of -her valuable subjects, who venture their lives in trackless deserts -searching for mines, and exposing themselves to every danger? Would it -have been possible for Portugal to colonize Brazil if there had been -no gold mines to attract adventurers? To deny men the treasures with -which nature has enriched the country, is to oppose one great check -to its population; for the example of one adventurer becoming rich, -is the means of inducing hundreds to follow him. Under the present -system, there is so great a struggle between the temptation of becoming -suddenly rich, and the fear of being ruined by detection, that when a -man finds a diamond by accident, he knows not whether to appropriate -it, or to surrender it to the government; even in the latter case, -he has little prospect of reward, and runs the risk of being accused -as a smuggler. Instances have not been uncommon of men having found -diamonds, who have thrown them away[84] rather than involve themselves -and their families in ruin, either by keeping them, or delivering them -to government. - -It has before been shewn, that Government are the greatest gainers by -the diamonds which are sold clandestinely; and if individuals were -allowed to trade in them, the state and the public would undoubtedly be -benefited by it. For it is certain, that a Brazilian farmer or miner -would prefer necessaries, such as iron utensils, clothing, &c. which -add to his comforts and conveniences of life, to articles of ideal -value, which in reality have come into his hands probably without -difficulty or expense. Thus the peasantry would draw valuable produce -from other countries in exchange for what cost them comparatively -nothing, and, by enriching themselves, would augment the revenues of -the state. - -Is it not possible to make the diamonds liable to pay a fifth, either -in kind or in value? In this case it is probable that there would be -less smuggling: and that practice might be still more restrained, by -something like the following regulation: every person finding diamonds -should be obliged to register them; also, to take out a certificate -authorising him to dispose of them in whatever manner he thinks proper. -It would certainly add to their importance, to make them subject to a -trivial duty[85], on being lawfully transferred from the buyer to the -seller, by which means they would come into immediate circulation -and represent real property: thus, after yielding a very small profit -to each person through whose hands they passed, they would finally be -exported; and, as long as diamonds continued an article of distinction, -ornament, and elegance, Brazil would lay under tribute every court in -the civilized world. - -The Dutch were artful enough to poison the ears of the ministers of -Portugal against the proposal of making diamonds a free trade, and -assisted in the persecutions against those unfortunate sufferers who -were detected in possessing them. But surely that narrow-minded and -self-interested policy is now done away with; nor would it be credited -in modern history, that the government of Brazil, for a trivial, -pecuniary profit, should be the dupes of their own bank and a few -interested strangers. - - -_View of the State of Society among the Middling Classes, employed in -Mining and Agriculture._ - -We are naturally led to imagine, that, in a country where mines of -gold and diamonds are found, the riches of the inhabitants must be -immense, and their condition most enviable; the Portuguese themselves, -who reside in the mining districts, encourage this supposition; and -whenever they go to Rio de Janeiro, do not fail to make all possible -show and parade. But let us view them in the centre of their wealth; -and as a fair criterion of the middling classes of society, let us -select a man possessing a property of fifty or sixty negroes, with -_datas_ of gold mines, and the necessary utensils for working them. The -negroes alone are worth, at the low valuation of 100 _milreis_, a sum -equal to £1,200, or £1,500 sterling; the _datas_ and utensils, though -of value, need not be taken into the account. Suppose this man to be -married, and to have a family: What is the state of their domestic -concerns, their general way of life? May I be allowed to describe -them in the language which truth dictates, without exaggeration or -extenuation? Their dwelling scarcely merits the name of a house; it is -the most wretched hovel that imagination can describe, consisting of -a few apartments built up to each other without regularity; the walls -wicker-work, filled up with mud; a hole left for a frame serves as a -window, or a miserable door answers that purpose. The cracks in the -mud are rarely filled up; and in very few instances only have I seen a -house repaired. The floors are of clay, moist in itself, and rendered -more disagreeable by the filth of its inhabitants, with whom the pigs -not unfrequently dispute the right of possession. Some _ranchos_, it -is true, are built upon piles; and underneath are the stables, &c.; -these are certainly a little superior to the former. They are built so -from necessity, where the ground is uneven or swampy; but it may be -easily conceived, that the disagreeable effects produced by want of -cleanliness, must in these instances be increased by the effluvia from -the animals underneath, which I have frequently found intolerable. - -The furniture of the house is such as might be expected from the -description above given. The beds are very coarse cotton cases, filled -with dry grass, or the leaves of Indian corn. There are seldom more -than two in a house; for the servants generally sleep upon mats, or -dried hides laid on the floor. The furniture consists of one or two -chairs, a few stools and benches, one table, or perhaps two, a few -coffee-cups and a coffee-pot of silver; a silver drinking cup, and, in -some instances, a silver wash-hand basin, which, when strangers are -present, is handed round, and forms a striking contrast to the rest of -the utensils. - -The general diet of the family consists of the same articles which have -already been particularized in treating of S. Paulo. The only beverage -is water; and nothing can be more frugal than the whole economy of -the table. So intent is the owner on employing his slaves solely in -employments directly lucrative, that the garden, on which almost the -entire subsistence of the family depends, is kept in the most miserable -disorder. - -In the article of dress, they do not appear more extravagant than in -that of food. The children are generally naked; the youths go without -shoes, in an old jacket, and cotton trowsers; the men in an old capote -or mantle wrapped around them, and wooden clogs, except when they go -from home; and, on those occasions, they appear in all their splendor, -forming as great a contrast to their domestic attire, as the gaudy -butterfly does to the chrysalis from which it springs. - -It might be expected, that however penuriously the general concerns -of the family were conducted, at least some degree of attention and -expense would be bestowed on the dress of the females; for the test of -civilization among all nations is the regard paid to the fair sex, on -whom the happiness of domestic life depends. Yet the general poverty -and meanness of their attire is such, that they reluctantly appear -before any one, except the individuals of their own family. - -In short, in all those departments of domestic economy, which to the -middle classes of other civilized nations are objects of expense, the -Brazilians exercise the most rigid parsimony. At first, I was inclined -to attribute this disposition to a love of money, which prompted them -to avoid all extravagance; but, on closer observation, I was surprised -to find that it originated in necessity. They generally take credit for -the few articles they have to purchase, and sometimes find it difficult -to maintain their negroes. If they purchase a mule, it is to be paid -for at the end of one or two years, and, of course, at double its -ordinary price. - -In such a family as that above described, the sons, as might be -expected, are not brought up to industry; they are merely taught to -read and write; rarely do they attend to the mining department; they -learn no trade, nor are they instructed in any useful employment: -perhaps an ensign or a lieutenant of militia, would think it a disgrace -to put his son apprentice to a mechanic. Suppose the father of this -family to die when the sons have just attained the age of puberty. -They are now for the first time obliged to think of providing for -themselves. With little knowledge of the world, ill educated, and poor, -they have learned to think all occupations servile, and their own is -generally hateful to them. If they agree not to divide the negroes, it -often happens that they run into debt, and continue in wretchedness; if -they divide them, each takes his course, and adventures for himself, -and in a short time, they are generally obliged to part with their -slaves, and exist in indigence. Every useful pursuit and every comfort -is neglected for the sake of seeking hidden treasures which very rarely -are found, and which when found are as rarely employed to advantage, -but rather serve to increase the wants of the owners. - -Few, very few of the numerous class of miners from which the above -instance is selected are rich, few are even comfortable; how wretched -then must be the state of those who possess only eight or ten negroes, -or whose property does not exceed three or four hundred pounds. - -Thus situated in one of the finest climates in the world, with rich -lands full of the finest timber, abounding in rivulets and water-falls -in every direction, containing, besides precious minerals, iron ores, -and almost every other useful product, the inhabitants of Brazil, -though secured from absolute want, remain in indigence. It is true, the -miner procures his gold by great labor, but this need not preclude him -from improving his domestic condition. Were his hovel converted into a -house, his slaves better fed and lodged, and his family better provided -for, his whole affairs would receive a new impulse, and every part of -his property would become doubly productive. - - -_Negroes employed as Messengers._ - -One description of men whom I have omitted to mention before, are -negroes employed as messengers by the various chiefs in the Capitania -of Minas Geraes. The men selected for this employment are the most -trusty and able-bodied that can be found. Their letters are locked up -in a leathern bag, which they buckle round them, and never take off -until they deliver its contents. They carry a gun and ammunition with -them to defend themselves, as well as to provide themselves with food. -Wherever they halt, they are sure of a kind and friendly reception, -for nothing can exceed the cordiality with which the negroes welcome -each other. These men are trusted on very important missions, and are -despatched to every part of the Capitania. On urgent occasions, some -of them have performed journeys with astonishing celerity. I was most -credibly informed, that one of them had been known to travel seven -hundred miles on a mountainous road in sixteen days, though that -distance usually occupies twenty or twenty-one days. The men are -generally tall, and of spare habit; they are accustomed to light food -and long abstinence. - - -_Diseases peculiar to the Country._ - -Of diseases I did not hear of any that were contagious, except Psora, -which sometimes prevails among the lower orders, who rarely use any -remedy against it, nor will they hear of sulphur, as they believe -it to be fatal. Colds, attended with fever, are the most general -complaints; but consumptions are rarely heard of. Among the miners, -I saw no symptoms of elephantiasis, though that disease is so common -in many other parts of Brazil, particularly on the sea-coast. The -sciatica which afflicts travellers after long journeys on mules, is -attributed by the people of the country to the bodily heat of those -animals, which is much greater than that of horses, and communicates to -the loins of the rider, occasioning almost constant excruciating pain, -which frequently becomes chronic, and sometimes incurable. Being, on my -return from the diamond district, much tormented with this complaint, I -was naturally led to make inquiries on the subject, and was informed, -that a person in the house where I then resided, had returned from a -long journey in the same predicament, and was about to undergo the mode -of cure commonly practised in the country. I was desirous of inquiring -the nature of it, and begged to be introduced to him. On conversing -with him, I found that his symptoms were similar to mine; he complained -of great pain in the os sacrum, and down the left thigh to the knee, -which afflicted him most when in bed, where he could not bear to lie -in any posture for half an hour together, but was obliged to rise and -wait until the warmth was abated, when he lay down again. Thus he -could get no sleep night or day. On asking if he had tried any external -application as a stimulus, he replied, that neither that nor any other -remedy was of the smallest avail, except the one peculiar to the -country. The operation was as follows:—The patient lay down on a bench -with his back upwards, and a youth, twelve or fourteen years of age, -knelt upon his loins, and continued to trample them (as it were) with -his knees for about the space of half an hour, until the muscles were -entirely bruised. In a few hours afterwards, the part became highly -discolored. If one operation had not the desired effect, another, and -even a third, would be had recourse to. It must be confessed, that this -remedy, in removing one evil, occasions another; but the advantage -is, that the latter is of short duration, whereas the former endures -sometimes for life, and gives continual affliction. In some cases the -remedy has been applied with success, but in others it has entirely -failed. - - -_On the Use of Mercury in the Mining Department._ - -The Government of Brazil would find it highly to their interest to -promote the use of mercury in the gold district. The process of -amalgamation is so simple, that there would be no difficulty in -introducing it generally among miners; and it would save much time and -labor in the last operation of washing, or what is called purifying. - -Perhaps it may not be improper, in this place, to describe the method -pursued in working the silver mines on the coast of Chili, which may be -estimated to produce about a million of dollars annually. Some of these -mines are full fifty yards deep; and we are told of one nearly as many -fathoms. It is probable that they are sunk upon veins of ore; and they -are so ill secured, that they frequently fill, and bury those within -them. The metal is generally a sulphuret of silver with antimony, lead, -and blende: it is brought up on the shoulders of wretched Indians, who -descend and ascend by insecure posts with notches cut in them. They -are total strangers to the operations of boring and blasting, and use -only miserable hammers and wedges. The vein stuff with the metal is, -in some places, reduced by means of a large stone, ill-constructed, -rolling on its edge; in others, it is pounded by hand, and, when -sufficiently fine, it is washed by several operations in a slovenly -manner, until the metallic part alone remains, which is not unlike lead -ore dust. This is formed into small heaps, perhaps about 100lb, to each -of which are added about 20 or 25lb of muriate of soda[86]. This is -triturated and worked both by hands and feet for three or four days. -When the salt is judged to be sufficiently incorporated with the metal, -mercury is used in the proportion of from five to ten per cent. and is -triturated until it loses its globular form; to prove which, a small -bit is rubbed upon a horn, or upon the thumb-nail, and if any globules -appear, however minute, the trituration is continued until they totally -disappear[87]. To this mixture the workmen frequently add filth, rags -torn into small bits, &c. place crosses upon the heaps, and use many -ridiculous ceremonies dictated by folly and a belief in necromancy. -At length the mercury unites with the silver, and forms with it a -paste-like mass separating itself from the remainder, which is thrown -away. This mass is put into goat-skins, and, by twisting and squeezing, -a great part of the mercury passes through, leaving a portion of nearly -pure silver, which is afterwards melted. The remainder is sublimed by -heat, and is condensed with more or less loss, according to the mode -applied, and the skill of the operator. Some little gold is procured -from some of the mines on this coast, by a similar process. - -In this part of Chili, the state of society is wretched; gambling is a -general vice, and assassinations are scarcely regarded as criminal. The -greatest depredations are committed with impunity, nor do the crosses -placed on the heaps protect them; so that, when a mine proves good, the -hopes of the proprietor are often frustrated through the poverty and -envy of his neighbours. - -The copper mines of Guasco, Copiapo, and Coquimbo, are wretchedly -worked, nor would it perhaps be safe to introduce other methods. The -copper is smelted in a hearth with bellows and wood; and if, when it -runs into cakes, it has the appearance of copper, they do not smelt -it again, but if it is so covered and intermixed with slag as not to -be known, it is broken up and undergoes a second smelting, when not -unfrequently slag is placed so as to be in the centre. These, and other -deceptions, have brought the trade into great discredit. The copper is -sold from eight to eleven dollars per 104lb. It is considered a poor -trade, though the Spaniards generally think the Chilian copper, and -even the timber which serves for fuel, _to be full of gold_!! - -Of the mines of Chili I have lately received a very particular account, -from which it appears that they are not under any regulations, and -are extremely ill worked. They are considered a very bad species of -property; and almost every metallic vein hitherto discovered, whether -worked or not, has numerous claimants, who are continually litigating -with each other, so as totally to prevent their being worked to -advantage. Chili contains abundance of copper, some lead, a little -gold, a portion of silver, and a great quantity of iron, and would, -in the possession of an industrious and civilized people, be, without -doubt, very productive. The mines in Peru, on the contrary, are subject -to regular laws, and the property is secured to its owner, particularly -in Pasco, where they are now working to great advantage, under the -control of liberal and enlightened men. It must be observed, that -their proprietors are much richer than those of Chili, where numerous -individuals claim what is scarcely worth being possessed by one. This -state of things discourages adventurers; for who would erect an engine -and free a mine, to be claimed by another? Society there is still in a -wretched state; the miners are in the lowest state of indigence; and -though paid for their work, it would be dangerous to prevent them from -carrying some of the produce away as their own, thefts of this sort -being very general in this province. - -Several Cornish miners have lately been sent out, at very high wages, -and under very flattering circumstances, but some disappointments -have occurred in the undertaking to which they were destined. In the -course of the year 1820, some Derbyshire miners, men of good character, -were engaged to proceed to Chili for the purpose of instructing the -natives in the various branches of their art. Since their arrival I -have received very gratifying accounts from them, announcing that they -have commenced their labors by clearing the mines of water, and that -they have immense masses of silver to work upon, some lumps of which, -weighing above 10lb. each, they have sent over as specimens. - - -THE END. - - - - -INDEX. - - - ABAITE, rivulet, diamonds found in, 344. - - Alto do Morro, 231. - - Alto de Virginia, 229. - - Araguaya, or Grande, river, 409. - - Arinos, river, 415. - - Armaçao, village of, near St. Catherine’s, 67. - A fishing station, 68. - - Asumpcion, city of, 439. - - - BAHIA, account of, 391. - Sugar plantations, 395. - Tobacco, 398. - Cotton, 400. - Indigo, 401. - - Bandeira de Coelho, 228. - - Barbacena, 224. - - Barro e Castro, near Villa Rica, visit to the estates of, 258, 261, - 268, 269. - - Barriga Negra, journey to, 22. - - Baugre, mode of fishing for the, 59. - - Belmonte, 203. - - Bertioga, harbour of, 123. - - Borda do Campo, village of, 218. - - Brazil: arrival at St. Catherine’s, 57. - Description of the island, 58. - Arrival at Armaçao, 67. - Bay of dos Ganchos, 68. - Garoupas, 72. - Plain of Coritiva described, 75. - Port of S. Francisco, 81. - Santos, 82. - Journey to S. Paulo, 85. - Description of S. Paulo, 92. - Gold washings at Jaragua, 107. - Manners of the Paulistas, 113. - Character, 121. - Coasting voyage from Santos to Sapitiva, 122. - Journey to Rio de Janeiro, 130. - City described, 135. - Trade, 139. - State of society, 146. - Visit to Santa Cruz, 148. - Province of the Rio, 154. - Journey to Canta Gallo, 157. - Gold-washing of Santa Rita, 177. - Rio Grande, 183. - Reputed silver mine, 185. - Agriculture, 189. - Journey to the diamond mines, 195, 206. - A topaz mine, 233. - Arrival at Villa Rica, 235. - Its origin and present state, 243. - Notice on the Buticudos, 273. - Villa do Principe, 305. - Arrival at Tejuco, 311. - Diamond works on the river Jiquitinhonha, 313. - Account of Minas Novas and Paracatu, 337. - Of Tejuco and Cerro do Frio, 349. - Management of the diamond works, 353. - Return to Rio de Janeiro, 370. - General view of Minas Geraes, 376. - S. João d’El Rey, 384. - Sabara, 386. - Bahia, 391. - Pernambuco, 401. - Seara, 402. - Maranham, _ib._ - Pará, 403. - Matto Grosso, 407. - Rio Grande do Sul, 442. - General observations on the trade with England, 450. - - Buticudos, Indians, measures of the Brazilian government for - converting, 274. - A boy belonging to them described, 299. - - Buenos Ayres, its population, 46. - Races composing it, 47. - - - CAMAPUA, river, 428. - - Camara, Dr. his reception of the author at Tejuco, 311. - - Camarro, 288. - - Canta Gallo, journey to, 157. - Description of, 170. - - Capao, topaz mine near, 232. - - Cará, an esculent root, 97. - - Carrapato, gold-work at, 323. - - Cascalho, a species of gravel containing gold, 107. - And diamonds, 314. - - Catas Altas, 289. - - Cerro do Frio, 307. - Observations on, 349. - Diamond ground described, _ib._ - Animals peculiar to the district, 368. - - Chingu, river, 410. - - Clara e Maria, farm of, 214. - - Conceiçao, village of, 302. - - Corgo do Inficionado, 289. - - Coritiva, plain of, 73. - Its climate, 75. - Its advantages, 78. - - Corolina, visit to a diamond work at, 333. - - Cubatao, village of, 85. - - Cuiaba, account of, 424. - - - DEVOLUTO, meaning of the term applied to land, 347. - - Diamond District, entrance into, 307. - (See Tejuco). - Mode of washing for diamonds, 314. - A view of those deposited in the treasury at Tejuco, 329. - Observations on the diamond district, 349. - Illicit trade, 356, 360. - How to be prevented, 363. - - Disperteros, a sort of birds so called, 111. - - - ENGORDA Cavallos, a species of grass, 335. - - - FARINHA de milho, mode of cooking, 280. - - Felicio, Senhor, his mansion, 290. - - Ferreira, Antonio, fazenda of, 212. - - ——, Capt. his plantation, 161. - - Flax, culture of, in Brazil, 220. - - - GAMA, fazenda do, 225. - - Garoupas, harbour of, 72. - - Gaspar Soares, village of, 296. - - Goyaz, account of, 405. - - Grimpeiros, treated as smugglers, 170. - - - INDIAN Corn, mill for grinding, 190. - - Inferninho, river, 69. - - Itambe, 294. - - - JACARANDA, rose-wood, common in S. Paulo, 106. - - Jaraguá, gold washings at, 107. - Mode of working, 108. - - Jiquitinhonha, river, visit to the diamond works on, 313. - - Juruena, river, 416. - - - LAGOS, village of, 297. - - Lavras Velhas, 260. - - Lichen, from Minas Geraes, containing coloring matter, 382. - - - MACHADO, farm of, 182. - - Madeira, isle of, on the coast of Brazil, 129. - - Madeiras, farm of, 211. - - Mandanga, visit to the diamond works at, 312. - - Mandioca, how cultivated, 101. - - Mantiqueira, farm of, 217. - - Maranham, account of, 402. - - Mariana, city of, 257. - - Marimbondos, insects so called, 191. - - Mate, herb, of Paraguay, 27. - - Mathias Barbosa, register of, 210. - - Matto Grosso, geographical description of, 407. - - Meni, a species of ground-nut, 162. - - Minas Geraes, general view of, 376. - - Minas Novas, account of, 338. - - Monteiro, diamond work at, 323. - - Monte Video, arrival at, 1, 3. - Confinement there, 4. - Adventure at the signal-house, 8. - Description of the town, 11. - Inhabitants, 12. - Trade, 13. - Climate, 15. - Vicinity, 16. - Farms, 17. - Fazendas, 18. - Breeding of cattle, 19. - Defective state of agriculture, 32. - Town taken by the British, 40. - - Moremim, river, 202. - - Morro de St. Anna, 288. - - Morro Queimado, fazenda do, 165. - - - NEGROES employed in the diamond works, observations on, 358. - - - OURO Branco, 298. - - - PARA, account of, 403. - - Paracatu, account of, 343. - - Paraguay, river, 419, 434. - - Paraibuna, river, 207. - - Parana, river, 431, 441. - - Pardo, river, 429. - - Pecari, or pig of the woods, 38. - - Peons of Paraguay, 28. - Mode of catching cattle, 29. - Their habits of life, 34. - Dress, 36. - Exploit of a female, 37. - - Pernambuco, account of, 402. - - Piabunha, river, 204. - - Piranga, 276. - - Plata, Rio de la, voyage to, 1. - Origin of the name, 441. - - Porto Negro, near Ilha Grande, 128. - - Pounding machine for Indian corn, 190. - - Purpura, a shell of the murex genus, 70. - - - REGISTRO Velho, 222. - - Resequinha, 223. - - Rio de Janeiro, arrival at, 133. - Description of, 135. - Trade, 140. - State of society, 146. - - Rio do Carmo, 250. - - Rio Grande do Sul, account of, 442. - - Rio Pardo, visit to the diamond works on, 330. - - Rosina de Negra, 209. - - - SABARA, account of, 386. - Gold-washing, 387. - - Santo Antonio, farm of, 182. - - Santa Cruz, royal farm of, 148. - - St. Catherine’s, isle of, voyage to, 55. - Arrival, 57. - Description, 58. - Trade, 59. - Its parishes, 61. - - St. Francisco, river, described, 346. - Harbour of, 73. - - San Gonzal, diamond work at, 371. - - S. João d’El Rey, account of, 384. - - San Jose da Barra Longa, 272. - - San Paulo, 90. - Described, 22. - Population, 94. - Manufactures, 96. - System of farming, 100. - Manners and customs of the inhabitants, 115, 118. - - St. Pedro d’El Rey, settlement of, 425. - - Santa Rita, gold washing at, 177. - - Santos, harbour of, 82. - Its intercourse with S. Paulo, 84. - Voyage from, to Sapitiva, 122. - - Sapitiva, arrival at, 129. - Journey from, to Rio de Janeiro, 130. - - Savages, measures of the Brazilian government for converting, 274. - - Seara, its trade, 402. - - Sebollati, river, 23. - - Serpents, large, in Minas Novas, 339. - - Silver-mine, account of a reputed one, 185. - - Sorocaba, 74. - - Sugar, process of making, in Bahia, 395. - - Sumidouro, river, 415. - - - TAPAJOS, River, 413. - - Tapinhoa canga, 303. - - Tejuco, capital of the diamond district, arrival at, 310. - Description of, 326. - Visit to the treasury, 328. - Observations on, 349. - Civil and military establishments at, 352. - Mode of preventing illicit trade, 363. - State of society in, 369. - - Thomas, father, his farm, 184. - - Tiete, river, 431. - - Tigreno, river, 69. - - Tocaya, advantages of its situation, 341. - - Topaz mine near Capao, 232. - - Toque Toque, harbour of, 125. - - - URUGUAY, river, 447. - - - VAZ, hamlet of, 292. - - Vermelho, river, 429. - - Villa do Principe, a pretended diamond found at, 196. - Arrival at, 305. - - Villa Rica, arrival at, 235. - Description of, 238. - Its origin and present state, 244. - Visit to the mint, 252. - Visit to the estates of Barro e Castro, 258. - Revisited on returning to the capital, 375. - Military establishment there, 377. - - - WOODS, species peculiar to Brazil, 188. - - - ZURILLA, description of that animal, 38. - - - FINIS. - - -_W. M’Dowall, Printer, Pemberton Row, Gough Square._ - - - - - ERRATUM. - - -Page 411, line 13, and note, for _Sutâo_, read _Sertâo_. - - - - - FOOTNOTES: - -[1] NOTE. Of the objects in the lower compartment of this plate, the -Pine is mentioned at p. 81; the Aloe at p. 130; the Cara is described -at p. 97, and the Mandioca at p. 101. - -[2] Here I found mint, caraway, balm, wormwood, and many other aromatic -herbs, growing wild in the greatest luxuriance. The stratum of -vegetable earth was at least two yards thick. - -[3] At a small town called Minas, ten leagues from Maldonado, I was -informed that there was a lead mine in limestone. A piece of that -substance was sent to me; it was flesh-colored, granular, and close in -texture. - -[4] The people of Paraguay are a more inactive and listless race than -any I ever met with. They seem to be conscious of no wants beyond -those of mere animal existence, and these they choose to supply at the -smallest possible expense of bodily exertion. Their supreme enjoyment -is to remain at home in a state of quietism or rather torpor, leaving -to the negroes the little agricultural toil that is required. They -are reserved, slothful, and patient, yet, with all their apathy, they -are friendly and somewhat courteous to strangers, provided they be -not required to go much into society or to bear an active part in -conversation. Commerce is almost unknown among them, and there is -very little specie in circulation. To a stranger, who has mingled in -the busy scenes of life, they seem absolutely weary of existence as -of a burthen. Blest with a fine climate and a land flowing with milk -and honey, they are unable to appreciate and turn to advantage the -bounties which divine Providence has lavished upon them; and from -these and other causes the population is very scanty compared with the -extent of the country. Such is the native land of the Peons of Monte -Video and Buenos Ayres. The state of society in that remote region is -deteriorated by the admission of refugees from Europe, who here find -shelter from justice, and propagate, in safe obscurity and with perfect -impunity, their vices among a people too much predisposed by indolence -for such contaminations, and unfitted by the same failing for receiving -any tincture of civilization, which a more lively and apprehensive -race of men might imbibe from foreign settlers, however dissolute in -morals. The Peons, who migrate southward to seek employment, soon -acquire a taste for ardent spirits, and thus heighten, sometimes to an -uncontrolable degree, the ferocity engendered by the habit of torturing -and killing cattle. They have no strong sense of danger to deter them -from crime, but, on the contrary, are aware, that on any breach of the -law they can elude its penalties by galloping three or four hundred -miles into the interior, where their crimes will be unknown, and where -they can bid defiance to pursuit or detection. - -In some parts of Paraguay timber grows in abundance; it is cut, and -floated down the river to Buenos Ayres, not in rafts but in single -trees. - -[5] A platted lash, about twenty yards long, with an iron ring at one -end, through which the other end being passed forms a noose. - -[6] Such indeed is their excessive propensity to gambling, that they -frequently carry cards in their pocket, and, when an opportunity -occurs, form parties, and retire to a convenient place, where one of -them spreads his _poncho_ or mantle on the ground, in lieu of a table. -When the loser has parted with his money, he will stake his clothes, so -that the game generally continues until one of them goes away almost -naked. This bad practice often leads to serious consequences. I once -observed a party playing in the neighbourhood of a chapel after mass -had been said, when the clergyman came and kicked away the cards in -order to put an end to the game. On this, one of the Peons rose up, -and retiring a few paces, thus accosted the intruder: “Father, I will -obey you as a priest; but” (laying his hand on his knife) “you must -beware how you molest our diversion.” The clergyman knew the desperate -character of these men too well to remonstrate, and retired very -hastily, not a little chagrined. - -On another occasion a Peon was gambling with a Spanish corporal in the -prison-yard, when a dispute arising, the latter drew his sword on his -unarmed antagonist, and wounded him so severely in the arm, that he was -obliged to undergo amputation the day following. - -It is usual for a Peon who has been fortunate at play, to go to Monte -Video and clothe himself anew in the shop of a slop-seller. While the -shopman is looking out the articles he calls for, he deliberately -places his dollars on the counter, in separate piles, assigning each to -its destined purpose. He then retires to a corner, and attires himself; -an unfortunate comrade invariably attends him, who examines his cast -clothes, and, if better than his own, puts them on. After passing a few -days in idleness, he sets out on his return home, where he appears in -his new dress. - -[7] Among the many daring and active feats performed by the Peons, -one of the most extraordinary of late years, was the capture of a -tiger by a female of that tribe. She was a mulatto-woman, brought up -in the vicinity of Barriga Negra. She was accustomed at an early age -to ride horses, and prided herself in doing offices which belonged -to the stronger sex, such as catching cattle with the noose, killing -them, &c. Her form was masculine, and she became so inured to men’s -work, that she was hired as a Peon, and fulfilled that office much -to the satisfaction of her employers. She was noted for selecting -spirited horses, and for riding them at full speed. One day on her -return from labor, as she was passing a rivulet, she observed a large -tiger at no great distance. Surprised that the animal did not steal -away, as is generally the case when he sees a person mounted, she drew -nearer, still keeping her horse’s head from him, so as to be ready to -gallop off if he should make a spring. He was still inattentive and -motionless; the woman observing this, and thinking he ailed something, -after some minutes’ pause backed her horse until she came within -twenty yards of him, loosening at the same time her noose from the -saddle, which she threw most dexterously over his neck, and immediately -galloped away with him to a considerable distance. Whether maimed or -not before, she knew he must now be dead; she therefore alighted, -flayed him, and carried home the skin as a trophy. The animal was above -the ordinary size, and not smaller than a calf six weeks old. This -exploit was long the talk of the neighbourhood, and I have heard the -woman herself relate the adventure. - -[8] _Sus Tajassu._—Lin. _Tajaçu._—Buffon. - -[9] One mode which they adopted for displaying their triumph over their -late conquerors was singular enough; they collected all the sign boards -belonging to the English warehouses and shops, and made a bonfire -of them. A great quantity of these boards was from the _pulperias_, -the masters of which had been obliged to have on them the following -inscription, painted in large characters, “Licensed to sell liquor.” - -[10] The fishery of the _baugre_ here is very considerable, and the -mode of catching the fish, by means of a curved line of boats, by -night, (from each of which is held a flambeau of straw to scare the -fish toward the shore), is singularly picturesque, and might remind the -imaginative spectator of a crescent of wild fire dancing on the waves. -The fish is called at Rio de Janeiro the _mulatto velho_; the negroes -eat it during Lent, and on Fridays and Saturdays. - -[11] This very rarely happens. - -[12] Forty years ago they caught a whale a day; but they now catch only -one in the course of a month. - -[13] The oil, in consequence of not being well refined, is black and -_sooty_. - -[14] Three leagues from Sorocaba, which is twenty leagues distant from -the capital. S. Paulo is the famous mountain of Varessoiba. It contains -such an abundance of iron, _solta e á garnel_, (loose or in heaps), -that ten foundries, each melting 10,000 quintals _per annum_, would not -exhaust it in a century; and it has wood for charcoal, which the same -number would be unable to consume in that space of time. A company of -Swedish miners was established here in 1810, but the undertaking was -frustrated by intrigue. - -[15] According to a statistical report, dated 1811, the city of S. -Paulo contains 4017 houses, (_fogos_, hearths); 5219 whites (males), -6319 whites (females); 377 free negroes, 485 free negresses; 1967 -male, and 1914 female captive negroes; 2394 free mulattoes, 3279 free -mulattas; 745 male, and 896 female captive mulattoes; making the whole -population 23,764. In this year (1811), the births were 1301, the -deaths 785, the marriages 233. - -[16] Probably the coloring matter arises from the decomposition of the -hornblende; I have frequently observed a mass of granite having its -surface decomposed into a red clay, in which the particles of mica were -hardly perceptible, while the compact rock below contained a very fair -proportion. These granites contain hornblende with mica. - -[17] In one part of the town is found a beautiful species of decomposed -granite, consisting of extremely white feldspar, quartz, and very -little mica. - -[18] Mandioca requires a dry hot soil, of a sandy nature. - -[19] This generous root requires but little preparation to make it -serve as a substitute for bread. When taken out of the ground they -wash and scrape it clean, and then rasp it on a coarse grater of iron -or copper, press the juice from it, and place it on a hot surface, a -shallow copper-pan for instance, four or five feet in diameter, or a -clay one, with a brick fire underneath; while drying it is constantly -stirred, and when the moisture is completely evaporated, it is -immediately fit for use. If preserved from wet, it will keep good a -long time. In broths and soups it becomes gelatinous, and affords rich -nourishment; it is particularly good when eaten with cheese. The wild -or spurious mandioca, called _Aipim_, is little inferior, when roasted, -to fine chesnuts. The Portuguese introduce it at table, boiled as well -as roasted. - -[20] Its leaf is shaped like a heart. - -[21] The _Spur-winged Plover_. In the Spanish territories they are -called _disperteros_ (awakeners), on account of the noise they make -when disturbed in the night. A flock of them in any plantation answers -the purpose of an alarm-bell against thieves. - -[22] Fr. Gaspar da Madre de Deos. - -[23] I may also add their public spirit in resenting injuries done to -individuals, and in supporting the cause of the oppressed; a singular -instance of which I have often heard related. Some seventy years ago, -one of their governors, who was a nobleman, had an intrigue with the -daughter of a mechanic. The whole town espoused the cause of the -injured female, and compelled the governor, at the peril of his life, -to marry her. - -[24] Had I approached this city by sea, I might have been enabled to -give a more animated description of its aspect; but I feel it incumbent -on me to adhere to veracity, the first duty of a traveller, and to -describe the impression made on my mind by the view as I approached by -land on my route from S. Paulo. - -[25] Several have been established since the time when this narrative -was written. - -[26] By way of experiment, I had some fat ewes killed, and the mutton -was acknowledged to be excellent; but the male lambs are never prepared -for the table. - -[27] A name given to those persons who go about the country seeking -gold-washings, and do not give notice, or solicit a grant when they -discover any. They are considered and treated as smugglers. - -[28] Ere they departed, I saw an instance of that dangerous excess to -which the passions of savages are liable when once excited; for, on -presenting a few bottles of liquor, there was a general strife for -them, and the person, man or woman, who first obtained one, would have -drank the whole of its contents, had it not been forcibly taken away. -It is very unsafe to give them ardent spirits, for when intoxicated it -is necessary to confine them. If preference is given to one, the rest -are insolent and unruly until they obtain the same mark of favor. - -[29] I was well informed that a few hundred pounds, judiciously -employed, would defray the expense of making a good road from Canta -Gallo to Porto das Caixas, which loaded mules might travel in two days. - -[30] The mode of crossing a river with horses or mules in these parts, -is to tie one to the canoe, and drive him into the water; the rest -follow. - -[31] The little lime which they use here is made of shells, and is -brought from Porto das Caixas. - -[32] In one part of the road we passed a nest of insects (called -_marimbondos_), which are extremely troublesome to cattle, and cause -the mules to be very violent and unruly. They attack with great -pertinacity, and pursue to a considerable distance; we took a devious -route to get rid of them, but I was followed by some which stung me as -painfully as an irritated wasp could have done. There is a singular -variety of them, having a horny pointed proboscis, with which they -pierce most keenly and give intolerable pain. - -[33] No person can be permitted to see the diamonds in the Treasury -without a joint order from the ministers to that effect. - -[34] This name is given to what we should call a huckster’s shop, -where various articles, such as liquors, Indian corn, and sometimes -sugar, are sold. Though they profess to answer the purpose of inns, -they are destitute of conveniences; travellers who carry their beds and -cooking utensils with them, generally prefer lodging in a _rancho_ or -_estallage_. Shelter from rain and night air is the only convenience -which a lodging in these districts can be expected to afford. - -[35] In this country the practice of cutting flax is attended with -great success, and is preferred to that of pulling it, which prevails -elsewhere. The fibres, though cut, are considered sufficiently long to -be spun and made into good common linen. The old roots produce fresh -shoots incredibly soon. - -[36] They also informed me that green topazes were sometimes found, -which I very much doubted. If any substance of that color, resembling -topaz, did occur, it was most probably _Euclase_. It is now known that -Euclase is found with topazes. - -[37] Our mules required at least six penny-worth each per day, -exclusive of their corn. - -[38] In England I once knew an instance in which an ingot with mercury -adhering to it, in the possession of a person ignorant of metallurgy, -was sold at a reduced price, as if the discolored part had really been -lead; the purchaser also supposing that to be the case. - -[39] The finest parts of these tracts, in the best season, are by no -means so rich in grass as an English meadow. - -[40] This species of sublimation on a small scale interested me -greatly. Could it proceed from any glimmering of science in the minds -of the negroes, or was it merely an accidental discovery? - -[41] This substance contains fine-formed octahedral crystals of -magnetic iron. - -[42] An owner of mules, who travels with a number of them, carrying -goods for other persons, as well as on his own account. - -[43] _Canga_ is the name of ferruginous quartz, fragments of which -abound in this town, and are used for paving the streets. - -[44] Four _vintens_ are nearly equal to a shilling of our money. When -this rivulet was first washed for gold, the quantity produced by -each _gamella_ amounted in value to that sum. As the _cascalho_ then -lay near the surface, and required very little trouble to get at, -one washer could clear about twelve bowls-full per hour, which was -considered a comparatively rich return. - -In the mines they have two methods of estimating the quantity produced: -for example; _Quatro Vintens_, here mean four _vintens_ of gold, which -is equal to eight of copper; whereas, in Rio de Janeiro, the same -expression implies four _vintens_ of copper. - -[45] In order to insure the vigilance of the overseers, these chairs -are constructed without backs or any other support on which a person -can recline. - -[46] The negroes employed in these works are the property of -individuals, who let them to hire at the daily rate of three _vintens_ -of gold, equal to about eight-pence, Government supplying them with -victuals. Every officer of the establishment is allowed the privilege -of having a certain number of negroes employed. - -[47] The negroes are constantly attending to the _cascalho_ from the -very commencement of the washings, and frequently find diamonds before -this last operation. - -[48] Probably fugitive negroes, who subsist in this remote district by -plunder and smuggling. - -[49] It was then in seed, of which I collected a small quantity; since -my return, I have sent part of it to the Agricultural Society, and -the remainder I have distributed among gentlemen who endeavoured to -promote its growth in this country, but without effect. It is rather a -hardy grass, as it grew in situations which were all so cold, that the -bananas and coffees were frequently blighted. - -[50] The ladies particularly wished to have the cheese of a fine color, -like that sent thither from England; and I was at no loss for an -ingredient for tinging the milk, as the tree, which produces the seed -from which annatto is made, grew spontaneously in the neighbourhood. - -[51] On the road there are numerous farm houses, which afford -sufficient accommodation for a traveller. They in general belong to -persons resident in Tejuco, where their produce is sold. - -[52] In some of the low swampy tracts large serpents are not uncommon. -At Tejueo I was shown the skin of a young one, of the Boa Constrictor -genus. It was twenty-four feet in length, and about twenty inches in -circumference. These formidable reptiles have been killed forty feet -long! The strength of such a serpent is not easily to be imagined; they -have an undulating motion, and carry their head erect four or five -feet from the ground; their jaws, &c. are capable of inconceivable -dilatation. - -[53] Since my return, His Excellency the Conde de Funchall, ordered a -model of a ballast-lighter, which I got constructed for him, and which -will one day or other be found extremely useful. - -[54] It may become useful at Villa Rica; but the quantity required -there at present is so trivial as scarcely to merit attention. - -[55] If salt were cheaper they might be cured, and would become an -article of commerce, particularly during Lent. - -[56] Exclusive of this amount there is a vast quantity smuggled. - -[57] One Sunday morning during my stay, an owner of a washing came to -the house of the Intendant, and brought him two miserable diamonds of -bad color, which did not weigh together above five grains, and these, -he said, were all which his ten negroes had found in six weeks. In the -course of conversation, the Intendant observed that all the smugglers -were either imprisoned or dispersed, when the man immediately assumed -an appearance of great disgust at the mention of persons of so vile -a description, and was liberal in his epithets of abuse on them. If -I durst have enquired how it happened that his negroes in six weeks -could find only two _bad-colored_ diamonds, what emotions would this -immaculate miner have manifested! - -[58] From all accounts relative to the Indians, either by the officers -employed against them, and better acquainted with their habits than -other men, or from any of the settlers who live near the coast, it does -not appear that they have the smallest knowledge of gold or of precious -stones; hence they can in no degree have contributed to the discovery -of those treasures in the district. - -[59] At a place called Caldeiroens, near to Ouro Branco, I received two -bits of this metal, but they were so small and disfigured, as to leave -strong doubts respecting their being natural; the more so, by reason -of the many impositions that were attempted to be practised upon me by -false specimens of copper-ores, silver, &c. - -[60] A part of the lichen which I brought home with me I presented to -a gentleman who was fond of chemical experiments: he obtained from the -small quantity of three grains as much coloring matter as imparted to -an ounce of fluid a deep purple, sufficiently strong for every purpose -of dying. - -The following are the results of some experiments which he did me the -favor to make: - -White sewing-silk, put into an alcoholic solution only once, received a -fine strong purple. - -Part of a skein of the same material, was put into a solution of -potash, which produced a purple deeper in hue than the former. - -Cotton thread and worsted yarn, immersed only once in the same -solution, produced very nearly the same colors. - -The part of a skein of silk died in the alcoholic solution was immersed -in a solution of muriate of tin, which produced a beautiful lilac, -approaching to dove-colored blue. The same substance died in a solution -of potash, and immersed in a solution of muriate of tin, became a few -shades darker, and rather more of a pink hue. These are not unfavorable -results from a quantity so minute; and I feel confident that this -substance may be rendered a very valuable article of trade. - -A few weeks ago, I received another sample of excellent lichen, very -full of color, which I hope may be turned to some advantage. - -[61] In many parts of the coast, the plant which produces the barilla -would probably florish abundantly, if introduced, and would form an -excellent article of commerce, not only for exportation, but for home -consumption. - -[62] There are several rivulets in various parts that bear this name. - -[63] If necessary, another channel might be made at a convenient -distance from the first. - -[64] It cannot be too much recommended to Government to introduce the -process of amalgamation generally throughout the mines. - -[65] _Bucking-irons_, are pieces of cast-iron with wood handles, used -at the lead mines, to break the ore from what it adheres to. - -[66] A lixivium of strong ashes is made, and a quantity of lime is put -into it: or sometimes the ashes are mixed with a larger proportion of -lime, and the clear fluid running from the mixture is added to the -juice in various quantities, at the discretion of the negro who manages -the process: respecting this _temper_ various opinions prevail. Every -negro has his peculiar mode of making, mixing, and applying it. - -[67] In skimming, lading, and managing the syrup during the operation, -the negroes display great dexterity. - -[68] Large trees are cut into planks of these dimensions for making the -cases, which are preferred to hogsheads. - -[69] The West India sugars are not clayed, consequently much stronger -and fit for refining and making loaves. - -It is much to be desired that the very excellent work, written by Bryan -Edwards, upon sugar making, and distilling rum, was introduced in -Brazil. - -[70] It is considered bad policy to subject the raw material, as -cotton, to a heavy duty, and very discouraging to planters, who must -have large capitals employed, and who are greatly exposed to loss if -the crops fail. Too much stimulus cannot be given to the growers; and -they ought to be encouraged by a premium, rather than to pay a tax on -the unmanufactured article. - -[71] During the past few years, the Governors of Matto Grosso have -used every effort to shorten the distance from these remote provinces -to the sea ports, by making roads, cutting down woods, and forming -establishments to accommodate passengers, so that canoes, &c. may be -transported over land, and make straight-forward communications from -one river to another, which has shortened this journey at least two -months. - -[72] Sutaò. This is a place understood to be uninhabitable for -Europeans, being the residence of uncivilized Indians, and covered with -almost impenetrable woods. - -[73] So called, because they abound with these animals. - -[74] This river being the grand channel of communication from Rio -de Janeiro, Santos, S. Paulo, and other places, to the interesting -districts of Cuiaba, Matto Grosso, the whole of Paraguay, the river -Plata, Potosi, Chiquisaca, and a great part of Peru, I have preserved -the particular detail given in this paper, of its numerous falls, and -the difficulties of its navigation, as it is now well known, and there -is great reason to suppose, that it will soon be much more frequented. - -[75] The labor of dragging the canoes over-land to avoid the cataracts -might be much lessened (where the finest timber is in such abundance), -if Government were to order rail-ways to be made, upon which loaded -canoes might easily be drawn on wheels. This would more facilitate the -intercourse than any other measure, and, from the present enterprising -spirit and wisdom of his Majesty’s ministers, we may soon hope to see -it put in practice. - -[76] The Silver from Potosi, which some years has exceeded twenty -millions of dollars, came down the Rio de la Plata to Buenos Ayres. - -[77] Some English settlers, disappointed in the river Plata, went to -Rio Grande to establish concerns for curing beef, refining tallow, &c. -which they soon abandoned from the want of practical knowledge. - -[78] Almost every vessel brings a greater or smaller number of negroes, -it being the practice at Rio de Janeiro to ship off all those who are -ill-disposed and troublesome for Rio Grande, whence, if they continue -refractory, they are frequently sold into the neighbouring colony. - -[79] It has been found, however, from modern surveys, that those rocks -are by no means so dangerous as they have been represented. - -[80] In Brazil and the Plata the bridle is made of sufficient length to -serve the purpose of a whip. - -[81] Delicate connections were soon formed, and females of the -obscurest class appeared dressed in the most costly extreme of English -fashion. - -[82] An _arroba_ is equal to 32lbs. avoirdupois. - -[83] Cotton of third quality is manufactured in the country into coarse -cloth for bags, negroes’ dresses, &c. and exported to the Spanish -colonies in large quantities. - -[84] Formerly, if any diamonds were found in a gold-washing, the owner -was obliged to desist from working it, and the ground was appropriated -by government. This law is now no longer in force. - -[85] It is reasonable to suppose, that few persons would hazard the -penalty incurred by dealing in diamonds clandestinely, when, by paying -a duty, they could bring them fairly into circulation. - -[86] Bay salt. - -[87] It would be interesting to enquire, in what manner the salt acts -upon the ore containing silver, for without it the mercury has no -effect. - - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Travels in the interior of Brazil, by John Mawe - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL *** - -***** This file should be named 50653-0.txt or 50653-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/6/5/50653/ - -Produced by Giovanni Fini and The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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