diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/50546-h/50546-h.htm')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/50546-h/50546-h.htm | 10409 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 10409 deletions
diff --git a/old/50546-h/50546-h.htm b/old/50546-h/50546-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 1a5140a..0000000 --- a/old/50546-h/50546-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10409 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Royal Winchester, by The Rev. A. F. L'Estrange, M.A.. - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -/* headings and paragraph*/ - -h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - line-height: 1.5em; - clear: both; -} - -.chapter h2 { - font-size: 1.2em; -} - -.faux { - font-size: 0.5em; - visibility: hidden; -} - -.chapter_head_insert { - font-size: 1.2em; - font-weight: bold; - text-align: center; - line-height: 1.5em; - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -p.noindent { - text-indent: 0em; -} - -/* horizontal rules */ - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap { - width: 65%; - margin-left: 17.5%; - margin-right: 17.5%; -} - -hr.tb { - width: 45%; - margin-left: 27.5%; - margin-right: 27.5%; -} - -hr.tiny { - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - width: 5%; - margin-left: 47.5%; - margin-right: 47.5%; -} - -hr.small { - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - width: 15%; - margin-left: 42.5%; - margin-right: 42.5%; -} - -/* tables */ -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - width: 96%; -} - -td { - min-width: 3em; -} - -td.day { - text-align: center; - font-size: 1.3em; - padding-top: 0.8em; - padding-bottom: 0.5em; -} - -td.index { - text-align: left; - font-size: 1.3em; - padding-bottom: 0em; -} - -td.cont { - padding-left: 1.8em; - text-indent: -1.8em; - text-align: justify; -} - -td.ill { - text-align: left; - padding-left: 1.8em; - text-indent: -1.8em; -} - -td.tdr { - text-align: right; - min-width: 2em; - padding-right: 0.7em; - vertical-align: bottom; -} - -.inscription { - padding-left: 2em; - max-width: 30em; -} - -.page { - font-size: 0.8em; -} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - background-color: #E6E6FA; - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: 0.8em; - text-align: right; - margin-left: 0em; - text-indent: 0em; - font-style: normal; -} - -/* alignment, variants */ -.center { - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.smcap { - font-variant: small-caps; -} - -/* signature */ -p.signed { - text-align: right; - text-indent: 0em; - width: 95%; -} - -/* Front and end matter */ -.title1 { - font-size: 2.8em; - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; - padding-top: 0.5em; - padding-bottom: 0.3em; -} -.title2 { - font-size: 3.5em; - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; - padding-top: 1em; - padding-bottom: 1em; -} - -@media handheld { - .title1 { - font-size: 1.5em; - } -.title2 { - font-size: 2em; - } -} - -.title3 { - font-size: 1.0em; - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; - line-height: 1.8em; -} - -.title4 { - padding-top: 0.6em; - font-size: 1.6em; - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; -} -.title5 { - padding-bottom: 1.0em; - line-height: 2.4em; - font-size: 0.6em; - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; -} - -p.printed { - font-size: 0.8em; - padding-top: 8em; - padding-bottom: 8em; - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; -} -p.space_above { - padding-top: 3em; -} - -/* Chapter heading and section */ - -p.summary { - padding-left: 1.8em; - text-indent: -1.8em; - font-size: 0.8em; -} - -/* Lists */ -ul { - list-style-type: none; - padding-left: 2.5em; - text-indent: -2.5em; -} - -ul.index { - list-style-type: none; -} - -li.ifrst { - margin-top: 1em; -} - -li.indx { - margin-top: .5em; -} - -ul.tn { - padding-left: 5em; -} - -/* Poetry */ - -.poetry-container { - text-align: center; - font-size: 0.9em; -} - -.poetry { - display: inline-block; - text-align: left; -} - -.poetry .stanza { - margin: 1em auto; -} - -.poetry .p_line-2 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 2.2em; -} -.poetry .p_line-1 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 2.6em; -} - -.poetry .p_line { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 3em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i2 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 4em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i3 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 4.5em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i5 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 6.5em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i8 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 7.5em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i9 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 8.2em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i12 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 9em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i16 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 10em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i22 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 11.2em; -} - -.poetry .p_line_i33 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 16em; -} - -.poetry .plus2 { - text-indent: -1.5em; -} - -.poetry .plus4 { - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.gothic { - font-size: 1em; - font-family: "Old English Text MT", Gothic, "Cloister Black", "Palatino Linotype", serif; -} - -@media handheld { - .poetry { - display: block; - margin-left: 1.5em; - } -} - -/* Letters and quotations*/ - -.quote { - padding-top: 1.0em; - padding-bottom: 1.0em; -} - -.letter { - margin-top: -0.5em; -} - -.smaller { - font-size: 0.9em; -} - -p.allin { - padding-left: 1em; -} - -/* Sidenotes */ - -.sidenote { - text-indent: 0; - text-align: left; - min-width: 10.3em; - max-width: 10.3em; - padding-top: 0.3em; - padding-bottom: 0.5em; - padding-left: .9em; - padding-right: .3em; - margin-left: 1.6em; - float: right; - clear: right; - color: #000000; - background: #EEEEEE; - background: #FFFFFF; - border-style: solid; - border-color: #CCCCCC; - border-left-width: 1px; - border-top-width: 0px; - border-right-width: 0px; - border-bottom-width: 1px; - text-indent: 0em; - text-align: left; - font-weight: bold; - font-style: italic; - font-size: .8em; -} - -@media handheld { - .sidenote { - float: right; - clear: none; - font-weight: bold; - } -} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ - -.transnote { - background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; -} - -.transnote h2 { - text-align: left; -} - -.nopagebreak { - page-break-before: avoid; -} - -/*abbrevations, cite */ - -abbr { - text-decoration: none; - border-bottom: none; -} - -@media handheld { - abbr { - text-decoration: none; - border-bottom: none; - } -} - -abbr.spell { - speak: spell-out; -} - -cite.plain { - font-style: normal; -} - -/* Images */ -.figcenter { - margin: auto;; - text-align: center; -} - -.gap_above { - padding-top: 2.2em; -} - -.caption { - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; - font-size: 0.8em; - margin-bottom: 1.0em; -} - -.cut { - width: 15em; - margin-left: 50%; - margin-top: -8.0em; - padding-bottom: 6.0em; -} - -@media handheld { - .cut { - width: 100%; - margin-left: 0em; - margin-top: 0.51em; - padding-bottom: 0em; - } -} - -.cover { - margin-top: 1.5em; - margin-bottom: 1.5em; - text-align: center; -} -@media handheld { - .cover { - display: none; - } -} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes { - border: dashed 1px; - margin-bottom: .7em; - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - font-size: 0.9em; -} - -.footnotes td { - vertical-align: top; -} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: none; - font-family: initial; -} - - </style> - </head> - -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Royal Winchester, by A. G. L'Estrange - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Royal Winchester - Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of England - -Author: A. G. L'Estrange - -Illustrator: C. G. Harper - -Release Date: November 24, 2015 [EBook #50546] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROYAL WINCHESTER *** - - - - -Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Fay Dunn and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<h1 class="faux">ROYAL WINCHESTER</h1> - -<div class="transnote"> - <h2 class="nopagebreak" title="">Transcriber’s Note</h2> - -<p>Illustrations - have been moved near -to the text they illustrate. The page numbers in the List of -Illustrations refer to the original positions.</p> - -<p>Footnotes have been moved to the end of chapters.</p> - -<p>Sidenotes were originally page headings, they have been moved to the -start of paragraphs.</p> - -<p>Inconsistent hyphenation and variant spelling are retained.</p> -<p>Quotations and transcriptions have been left as printed.</p> -<p>Minor changes have been made to punctuation, the other changes -that have been made are listed at the <a href="#End_Transcribers_Note" title="">end of the book</a>.</p> -</div> - -<div class="cover"> - <img src="images/front.jpg" alt="Cover" /> - <hr class="chap" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_cathedral" id="image_cathedral"><img src="images/cathedral.jpg" alt="The Cathedral West Front" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Cathedral: West Front.<br /> - WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL. - </p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center"><span class="title1">ROYAL</span><br /> -<span class="title2">WINCHESTER</span></p> - -<p class="center space_above"><span class="title3">WANDERINGS IN AND ABOUT</span><br /> -<span class="title4">THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF ENGLAND</span></p> - -<p class="center space_above"><span class="title5">BY THE</span><br /> -<span class="title4"><abbr title="REVEREND">REV.</abbr> A. G. L’ESTRANGE, M.A.</span></p> - -<p class="center title5">AUTHOR OF<br /> -“THE VILLAGE OF PALACES,” “THE FRIENDSHIPS OF M. R. MITFORD,” ETC., ETC.</p> - -<p class="center title3 space_above">WITH NUMEROUS TEXT AND FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM<br /> -ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY C. G. HARPER</p> - -<p class="center title3 space_above"><i>SECOND EDITION.</i></p> - -<p class="center space_above"><span class="title3">LONDON:</span><br /> -<span class="title4">SPENCER BLACKETT</span><br /> -<span class="title3">35, <abbr title="SAINT">ST.</abbr> BRIDE STREET, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C.</span></p> - -<hr class="tiny" /> -<p class="center">(<i>All rights reserved.</i>) -</p> -<hr class="chap" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="noindent"> -<span class="smcap">Among</span> those who have kindly afforded me information -during the progress of this work are the Very -<abbr title="Reverend">Rev.</abbr> Dr. Kitchin, Dean of Winchester, the <abbr title="Reverend">Rev.</abbr> Dr. -Sewell, Warden of New College, Oxford, the <abbr title="Reverend">Rev.</abbr> J. -G. Young, Mr. F. Baigent, Mr. J. H. Round, Mr. T. -Stopher, and Mr. C. G. Harper. I have consulted, -among recent works, those of the Misses Bramston -and Leroy, the <abbr title="Reverend">Rev.</abbr> H. C. Adams, and Mr. Woodward. -</p> - -<p class="signed"> -THE AUTHOR.<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</a></h2> - -<table class="toc" summary="Table of Contents"> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">FIRST DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td class="tdr page">PAGE</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">Introduction — The High Street — The Castle — King Arthur - — Historical Reminiscences — Executions — The Civil -War — Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s Palace — The Westgate — Wyke — -Littleton — Crawley — Lainston — Sparsholt</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1" title="Page 1">1</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">SECOND DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">“God Begot” House — The High Street — Old Guildhall — -Butter Cross — King Alfred — The Penthouse — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Maurice’s Church — The Bell and Crown — New Guildhall - — Museum — Archives — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary’s Nunnery — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -John’s Hospital — Soke Prison — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ Hill — The -Fair</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_49" title="Page 49">49</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">THIRD DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">The City Walls — Danemead — Eastgate — Northgate — -Westgate — Southgate — Kingsgate — The College — -Wykeham — Wolvesey — Raleigh</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_85" title="Page 85">85</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">FOURTH DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">Jewry Street and the Jews — Hyde Abbey — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald - — Destruction of Tombs — Headbourne Worthy — -King’s Worthy — The Nuns’ Walk</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_123" title="Page 123">123</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">FIFTH DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">The Cathedral — Early History — Dagon — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun - — Æthelwold — The Vocal Cross — Ordeal of Fire — -Walkelin — Renovation of the Cathedral — Civil War - — Architecture — Nave — Isaak Walton — Relics and -Monuments — De la Roche — Frescoes — Ethelmar — -Crypt</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_148" title="Page 148">148</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">SIXTH DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">The Grenadier — Cathedral Library and Museum — The -Deanery — Pilgrim’s Hall — Precincts — Cheyney Court - — Regulations of the Monastery — North side of the -Cathedral — Early decay of the City — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s Street - — Middle Brooks — Old Houses</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_209" title="Page 209">209</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">SEVENTH DAY.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">Southgate Street — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross — Dr. Lewis — Regulations — -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Catherine’s Hill</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_243" title="Page 243">243</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day" colspan="2">EIGHTH AND FOLLOWING DAYS.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="cont">Ancient Britons — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s Church — Magdalen Hospital - — Punchbowl — Chilcombe — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s Cheesehill — -Twyford — Monoliths — Brambridge Avenue — Otterbourne - — Compton — “Oliver’s Battery” — Hursley — Tomb -of Keble — Merdon Castle — Farley Mount — The Hampage -Oak — Tichborne</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_262" title="Page 262">262</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="day index">INDEX</td><td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_297" title="Page 297">297</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></p> -<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</a></h2> - -<table summary="List of Illustrations"> -<tr><td> </td><td class="tdr page">PAGE</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_cathedral" title="">THE CATHEDRAL: WEST FRONT, WINCHESTER</a></td><td class="tdr"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_westgate" title="">WESTGATE</a></td><td class="tdr">7</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_castle" title="">CASTLE HALL</a></td><td class="tdr">29</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_harpesfelde" title="">THE EPITAPH OF DR HARPESFELDE</a></td><td class="tdr">40</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_sparsholt" title="">SPARSHOLT CHURCH</a></td><td class="tdr">45</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_butter" title="">THE BUTTER CROSS AND PENTHOUSE</a></td><td class="tdr">49</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_passage" title="">ROYAL OAK PASSAGE</a></td><td class="tdr">51</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_old" title="">THE OLD GUILDHALL</a></td><td class="tdr">55</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_guildhall" title="">THE GUILDHALL</a></td><td class="tdr">67</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_soke" title="">SOKE BRIDGE</a></td><td class="tdr">77</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_towers" title="">TOWERS AND SPIRES OF WINCHESTER</a></td><td class="tdr">79</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_kingsgate" title="">KINGSGATE</a></td><td class="tdr">90</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_lodge" title="">THE PORTER’S LODGE AND CHEYNEY COURT</a></td><td class="tdr">92</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_chamber" title="">CHAMBER COURT</a></td><td class="tdr">99</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_cloisters" title="">THE CLOISTERS</a></td><td class="tdr">103</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_college" title="">THE COLLEGE CHAPEL</a></td><td class="tdr">111</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_study" title="">CORNER OF A COLLEGE STUDY</a></td><td class="tdr">115</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_itchen" title="">THE TOWER OF THE COLLEGE CHAPEL FROM THE ITCHEN</a></td><td class="tdr">121<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_cross" title="">CNUT AND EMMA (ÆLFGYFU) PLACING THE CROSS AT HYDE</a></td><td class="tdr">133</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_wykeham" title="">WYKEHAM’S TOMB</a></td><td class="tdr">167</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_chapter" title="">A FRAGMENT OF THE CHAPTER HOUSE</a></td><td class="tdr">169</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_transept" title="">IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT</a></td><td class="tdr">177</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_james" title="">KING JAMES</a></td><td class="tdr">181</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_choir" title="">THE CHOIR FROM THE NAVE</a></td><td class="tdr">187</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_deanery" title="">THE DEANERY</a></td><td class="tdr">219</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_penthouse" title="">THE PENTHOUSE</a></td><td class="tdr">233</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_middle" title="">MIDDLE BROOK</a></td><td class="tdr">237</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_church" title="">THE CHURCH OF SAINT CROSS FROM THE WATER MEADOWS</a></td><td class="tdr">245</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_beaufort" title="">BEAUFORT TOWER, <abbr title="SAINT">ST.</abbr> CROSS</a></td><td class="tdr">249</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_catherine" title=""><abbr title="SAINT">ST.</abbr> CATHERINE’S HILL FROM <abbr title="SAINT">ST.</abbr> CROSS</a></td><td class="tdr">259</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_john" title=""><abbr title="SAINT">ST.</abbr> JOHN’S FROM A COTTAGE GARDEN</a></td><td class="tdr">265</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_chilcombe" title="">CHILCOMBE CHURCH</a></td><td class="tdr">270</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_tombstone" title="">A CHILCOMBE TOMBSTONE</a></td><td class="tdr">271</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_peter" title=""><abbr title="SAINT">ST.</abbr> PETER’S CHEESEHILL FROM ABOVE THE STATION</a></td><td class="tdr">273</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_twyford" title="">TWYFORD</a></td><td class="tdr">278</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_hursley" title="">HURSLEY</a></td><td class="tdr">285</td></tr> -<tr><td class="ill"><a href="#image_farley" title="">FARLEY MOUNT</a></td><td class="tdr">288</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span> - -<h2 title=""><a name="ROYAL_WINCHESTER" id="ROYAL_WINCHESTER">ROYAL WINCHESTER</a></h2> - -<p class="center"><i>WANDERINGS IN AND ABOUT THE ANCIENT -CAPITAL OF ENGLAND.</i></p> - -<hr class="small" /> -<h2>FIRST DAY.</h2> - -<p class="summary">Introduction — The High Street — The Castle — King Arthur — Historical -Reminiscences — Executions — The Civil War — Charles -<abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s Palace — The Westgate — Wyke — Littleton — Crawley — Lainston — Sparsholt.</p> - -<p class="noindent">“<span class="smcap">Would</span> that the George Hotel had an old gable, -or even an Elizabethan window,” I said to myself -as I unshouldered my knapsack; “but perhaps the -ordinary visitor thinks more of creature comforts -than of artistic effects.”</p> - -<p>“Is there anything of antiquity about the house?” -I inquired, turning to the waiter.</p> - -<p>“Not that I know of,” was the reply;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> “but it is a -very ancient establishment. There is a fresco two -hundred years old in one of the rooms,” he added, -with a little pride.</p> - -<p>I took out my notebook and pencil, and was shown -into a ground-floor room in the western and earlier -part of the hotel to see this curiosity. Alas! it -proved to be nothing but an old paperhanging.</p> - -<p>“Not very remarkable,” I said, carelessly.</p> - -<p>“Indeed, sir!”</p> - -<p>“I am expecting some friends by the next train,” -I continued. “We shall require dinner for three. -What can we have?”</p> - -<p>The waiter was pretty well acquainted with the -productions of the culinary department, which had -not much charm of novelty, and after settling that -important business, I sallied forth to purchase a guide-book. -This was not the first time I had been at -Winchester, and much of the information it contained -was not new to me; but I wished to refresh my -memory on some points, as the friends I was -expecting looked to me to be their <i>cicerone</i> during -the few days we were to spend here together.</p> - -<p>Reading some and skipping more, and glancing at -the well-known illustrations, I thought myself fairly -acquainted with the subject, especially as I had -rummaged up something from old books and manuscripts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> -in London. I wished to stand well with -the old gentleman and his daughter for certain -reasons which I shall not mention—because I may -be unsuccessful. Well—we shall see.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Arrival.</div> - -<p>Here they are!—warm greetings—the luggage is -lifted down, and by degrees the small articles which -accompany a lady’s travels were brought in, counted, -and arranged. Do the number and variety of them -cause me to hesitate or to reflect that in single -blessedness—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“When a man’s hat is on his head</div> - <div class="p_line">His house is thatched and furnishèd”?</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>No, not for one moment.</p> - -<p>Conversation soon becomes more connected, and, -in due course, allusion is made to the object of our -visit.</p> - -<p>“Now, mind you tell us <i>everything</i> about Winchester,” -said Miss Hertford, with a smiling emphasis, -which showed that she intended to be obeyed.</p> - -<p>“Everything, and some other things,” I replied, -submissively;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> “but perhaps you under-estimate the -extent of the mine which is here beneath our feet. -You are an enchantress, and if you wish to become -the idol of antiquaries, turn Winchester upside down -for a few hours.”</p> - -<p>The present “George” is not inspiring architecturally, -but still possesses a fragrance beyond -that of mere soups and joints. Here successive -generations have been accommodated and regaled,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Have found the warmest welcome at an inn,”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">ever since the days of Edward <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr> Had a Visitors -Book been kept, what a rare collection of autographs -would it have contained! In the twentieth -year of Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr> we read of the “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">In of -the George</span>” being leased by the Mayor to one -Stephen Boddam, on condition that he pays the -rent fixed and forty shillings towards the new -making of the chimney.<a name="Anchor_1" id="Anchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 1.">[1]</a> The name of the house -was taken from the patron saint of England, pork-dealer, -bishop, and dragon-slayer; to whom we find -a chapel in Winchester dedicated in Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>’s -time.<a name="Anchor_2" id="Anchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 2.">[2]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sufferings of a Royalist.</div> - -<p>The stable at the back is the oldest part. It -has a dingy aspect, and an unpleasant association. -When Waller was here making demands upon the -citizens in 1643, one Master Say, a son of a Prebendary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> -of the Cathedral, directed his servant to -conceal his horses. Betrayed and brought before -Waller, he was questioned, and his answers being -deemed unsatisfactory, was handed over to the -Provost Marshal to extract a confession. He was -forthwith taken into the “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">eighteen-stall stable</span>,” a -halter was placed round his neck, and, as he still -refused information, he was pulled up and down to -the rack until nearly strangled. All the spectators -retired in disgust—they could not stand the sight.</p> - -<p>“How dreadful!” exclaimed Miss Hertford. “Did -the poor man die?”</p> - -<p>“It very nearly finished him,” I returned; “but -people were pretty strong in those days. However, -he had, as a result, a dangerous illness.”</p> - -<p>There is no better starting-point than the -“George,” in the centre of the High Street, for -exploring Winchester. This was the chief street in -Roman times, and perhaps terminated in such a -round arch as we see at Lincoln. In the palmy -days of the city good houses probably adorned the -street. There seems to have been a fashionable -tailor here in the days of John and Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> -His cut was evidently appreciated, for he was not -only employed by the King, but given wood to repair -his house, Limafelda, the rent of which was a grey<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> -pelise for the King. We may conclude there was -also a grand harness maker: for John ordered the -Mayor to give the constable of Corfe Castle a -handsome (<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">pulchra</span>) saddle, with a scarlet saddle-cloth -and gilt bridle.<a name="Anchor_3" id="Anchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 3.">[3]</a></p> - -<p>The scene had greatly changed by Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s -time. The houses, mostly wooden and thatched, had -gardens in front of them, of a somewhat Irish character, -for the walls were dilapidated,<a name="Anchor_4" id="Anchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 4.">[4]</a> and they contained -few flowers, but many sweet—pigs. A civic order -was now made that householders should no longer -keep “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">hog-sties</span>” within the boundaries of the “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">hie</span>” -street. Those were times of darkness—there were no -town-lights, and some apprehension was felt that even -the supply of candles might run short. And so, in -the fifteenth year of Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, it was ordered by -the Winchester “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">assemble</span>” that the chandlers -“<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">should make</span>” good and well-burning candles, and -“should see there was no lack of them.”<a name="Anchor_5" id="Anchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 5.">[5]</a> In Charles -<abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s time the citizens were bidden to hang out lights -while the King was in residence.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Westgate.</div> - -<p>Now let us come to a nearer date, and imagine this -street a hundred years ago. An open drain ran down -it, and lines of gables and overhanging storeys -nodded across at each other in grotesque infirmity. -A pretty picture they made, and there was one -night in the year on which they seemed to me to -be sadly missing—the fifth of November—when tar -barrels were lit at the Westgate and kicked down the -street by an exulting mob. A grand scene it was of -riot and wildfire, and only wanted the quaint, irregular -buildings to complete the effect.</p> - -<p>“When Keats was here in 1819,” said Mr. Hertford, -“he found the place much modernized and -‘improved.’ He says the side streets were excessively -maiden-lady-like; the doorsteps were always -fresh from the flannel, and the knockers had a -staid, serious, almost awful quietness about them. -Never did he see such a quiet collection of lions’ and -rams’ heads.”<a name="Anchor_6" id="Anchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 6.">[6]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_westgate" id="image_westgate"><img src="images/westgate.jpg" alt="Westgate" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - West Gate, Winchester. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The first object that attracted our attention on -our walks was the Westgate, which crowns the -High Street, and is beautiful with its ivy, arches, -and two Decorated windows. There is a warm -semi-domestic character in the fortifications of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> -town—a charm distinct from that of the colder -grandeur of the Castle and Cathedral. As we -approach the gate, we pass the Star Inn.</p> - -<p>“That unpretentious building,” I said, “stands on -holy ground.<a name="Anchor_7" id="Anchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 7.">[7]</a></p> - -<p>“Graves of unknown age, Roman coins and vases -were found there when digging for the foundations in -1885. It is thought that a palace of Queen Emma -stood on or near its site. There was a hostel -named ‘La Starre’ in Winchester in the reign of -Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Prisoners.</div> - -<p>We now approach and stand before the gate. Had -we been here in the fourteenth century—on a Sunday -morning—during the fair, we should have found -ourselves surrounded by a chattering crowd, buying -bread at the stalls here erected; while close to us on -the left (south), would have risen a grim tower in -haughty grandeur. It stood just in front of where -are now the stairs of the office of the Hampshire -Friendly Society—a slight inequality in the road -can be observed over the foundations. This was a -part of the ancient castle, which some say was built -by FitzOsborne at the Conqueror’s command, while<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> -others<a name="Anchor_8" id="Anchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 8.">[8]</a> observe that we have no allusion to it till the -days of Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> In Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s reign it is often -mentioned. Some say that previously the Saxon -palace stood here. This palace has been well jolted -about by topographers, most of whom place it in the -Square behind the Butter Cross. The result is that -we have here a couple of prisoners, and do not know -where to put them. One of these is Stigand, -Bishop of Winchester, and afterwards archbishop. -His treasures were not entirely in the other world, -but he kindly kept a correct account of them, and -wore his key on a chain round his neck, so that on -his death in 1070, William had no difficulty in -turning his store into the royal coffers. The other -sufferer was a young Saxon of the name of Meaw. -It appears that the Conqueror’s wife, Matilda, was -not so busy with her Bayeux tapestry and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Abbaye -aux Dames</i> as to forget all about this aggravating -person. He would care nothing for her, and she -determined to be revenged. So she had him shut up -somewhere in Winchester, that he might have leisure -to reflect on the advantages of being “willing and -free.” Prisons were not then as they are now—some -of the best warmed and ventilated places—there were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> -no good food and attentive doctors, and after a short -time poor Meaw was beyond the reach both of love -and hatred.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Domesday Book.</div> - -<p>In this Castle was the “exchequer,” that is, the -depository of records and treasure. Among the -valuables it contained for a considerable time was -the celebrated Domesday Book, or a copy of it, -which is first mentioned as the “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Liber de Thesauro</span>,” -appealed to in a case argued before Queen Matilda -“in the treasury of the Castle of Winchester,”<a name="Anchor_9" id="Anchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 9.">[9]</a> about -the year 1108. The original rolls disappeared at an -early date, perhaps in some conflagration, but the -Winton book, that describing this locality, is a more -full copy from them than is the larger Domesday -Book for the whole of England. Authorities differ -as to when this book was removed from Winchester. -In the seventh year of Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, there appears a -charge in the <cite class="plain">Pipe Rolls</cite> for conveying the “arca” -from Winchester to London, and in the London -Record Office there is a curious chest in which this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> -book was kept at Westminster. It is about five feet -square, formed of iron nearly an inch thick, and -strengthened with heavy girders and studs. This -may have been the very ark above mentioned.</p> - -<p>“In order to see this castle we must ante-date -our existence three hundred years.”</p> - -<p>“I wish we could,” said Mr. Hertford, “then we -should have no trouble about Home Rule or County -Councils.”</p> - -<p>“Suppose then,” I proceeded, “we are standing in -front of the old tower I have mentioned, and admiring -its handsome mouldings of cut stone. If we are -allowed to enter and explore we shall find beneath -it three subterranean passages radiating in different -directions—one to the east, passing into the town, -with a view probably of taking sanctuary in churches; -another to the south, leading towards the hall; and -a third to the west, ending in a sally port outside -the town. Passing through this entrance tower we -have on our left an embattled wall (where the paved -walk now runs) meeting the end of the hall,<a name="Anchor_10" id="Anchor_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 10.">[10]</a> and on -our right another wall (along the course of the iron -railing of the Friendly Society), extending to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> -State apartments—the site of the present County -Offices. The original Norman Castle—a tower fifty-two -feet square and fourteen thick, which stood -where the Jubilee Queen now sits in front of the -hall—was demolished at an early date. The -succeeding castle had round towers, between thirty -and forty feet wide, and from eight to ten -thick.<a name="Anchor_11" id="Anchor_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 11.">[11]</a> Beyond the hall was an inner court, or -‘pleasaunce,’ with four towers, one at each corner; -one is still visible, and one stood where the officers’ -quarters are; one probably belonging to the Castle, -but somewhat distant, and perhaps detached, was -found in the railway cutting.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Castle.</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> -<p>“A remarkable, if not fabulous event, took place -‘in the hall of Winchester Castle’ (or palace) in -Edward the Confessor’s time. The story goes that -one of the serving-men in bringing in a dish slipped -one foot, but saved himself with the other. Earl -Godwin being in good spirits, perhaps, at the termination -of the almost endless grace, attempted a -joke—a somewhat hazardous venture before the -Confessor. ‘So should one brother support the -other,’ quoth he. Edward was down upon him in -a moment. ‘So might I have been now assisted -by my brother Alfred, if Earl Godwin had not -prevented it.’ The Earl protested that he had no -connection with that murder; ‘might the next morsel -be his last if he had.’ He ate and tried to swallow, -but the food and the lie stuck in his throat, and he -fell dead under the table.”</p> - -<p>“I have read, somewhere,” observed Mr. Hertford, -“that there is no truth in that story beyond the fact -that the Earl died suddenly at a banquet here, and -was buried in the Cathedral. It has a Norman -flavour.”</p> - -<p>We find that Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> bought a place in Winchester -for his mews, which remained in the hands -of John and Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr><a name="Anchor_12" id="Anchor_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 12.">[12]</a> John in his fifth year gave -to Matthew Wallop “the custody of our house and -castle gates and gaol in Winchester for the service -of his keeping at his cost our birds put in the Castle -to be mewed, finding one servant to mew them, and -keep throughout the mewing time. And he shall find -three hare hounds for each season.”<a name="Anchor_13" id="Anchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 13.">[13]</a> John also -ordered a Columbarium to be made in the Castle.<a name="Anchor_14" id="Anchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 14.">[14]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_castle" id="image_castle"><img src="images/castle.jpg" alt="Castle Hall" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Castle Hall. - </p> -</div> - -<p>While we were admiring the exterior of the hall I -thought of the grim ornaments with which the Castle -was once adorned. Here was placed by Edward <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> -a quarter of the last native Prince of Wales. Here -Queen Isabella exhibited the head of Earl Despencer. -As I was musing, a labourer came out, -and we were enabled to enter the building.</p> - -<p>“Magnificent!” exclaimed Mr. Hertford. “What -a length and height; and look at those tall, blue shafts -of Purbeck marble!”</p> - -<p>“Those pillars and aisles,” I replied, “have led -some to mistake it for a church. But although we -read of four chapels in the Castle—the chief of -which was to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Josse—this was not among them. -The length is 110 feet. The old entrance to the hall, -the mouldings of which are still visible, was used -towards the end of the last century, and corresponded -with that still existing on the south side.”<a name="Anchor_15" id="Anchor_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 15.">[15]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Arthur’s Table.</div> - -<p>At the west end are the remains of a daïs, and a -curious orifice, supposed to be for communicating by -word of mouth with the State apartments. Over -this, like a large target, hangs the famous “round -table” of King Arthur—a mystery for centuries. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> -the reign of Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>, who was much here, and had -his birth-room in the Castle coloured with fresh green, -when there were statues in the porch, marble pillars, -and a painted chamber, there were also here a -“Mappa Mundi” and a “Wheel of Fortune.” The -latter seems suggestive, and the Round Tower, built by -Wykeham, at Windsor, and called the Round Table, -may have been taken from this; but we hear nothing -of it till Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>’s reign,<a name="Anchor_16" id="Anchor_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 16.">[16]</a> and the present painting -dates from Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, who specially showed the -work of art to the Emperor Charles <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr> Round it are -inscribed the names of Arthur’s knights, and in the -centre is a picture of a king in voluminous robes, -much more like a Tudor monarch than a British -warrior.<a name="Anchor_17" id="Anchor_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 17.">[17]</a> Tradition says that Arthur founded this -Castle. He and his companions, when divested of -their French motley, represent the conflict which -raged between the Christian Britons and the pagan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> -Saxons. It is said that he gained a great victory -in this neighbourhood, and so fondly did the conquered -and oppressed natives recall the memory of their -beloved champion, that they fancied he would come -again—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Thence to Britain shall return,</div> - <div class="p_line">If right prophetic rolls I learn,</div> - <div class="p_line">Borne on Victory’s spreading plume,</div> - <div class="p_line">His ancient sceptre to resume,</div> - <div class="p_line">His knightly table to restore,</div> - <div class="p_line">And brave the tournaments of yore.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr> was not above superstitious or worldly -considerations, and the legendary foundation of the -Castle induced him to bring Elizabeth to this city to -be delivered, and to call his first son Arthur.<a name="Anchor_18" id="Anchor_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 18.">[18]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Castle.</div> - -<p>Great improvements were made in the Castle by -Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>, for which the forest of Bere was mainly -contributory. The order is extant in which the -verderers are commanded to sell the underwood and -give the money for the construction of a great hall -at the Castle,<a name="Anchor_19" id="Anchor_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 19.">[19]</a> and oaks were to be cut for forming -the roof.<a name="Anchor_20" id="Anchor_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 20.">[20]</a> This forest, extending from Winchester<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> -to Southampton, would be able to furnish ample -money and material. The stone for building and -repairing the Castle was to be brought from -“Kerebroc,” in the Isle of Wight.<a name="Anchor_21" id="Anchor_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 21.">[21]</a></p> - -<p>Twenty-five thousand slates were placed upon -the roof, and the queen’s chamber was panelled with -Irish oak. By the time Elizabeth came to the -throne, the Castle was in a somewhat dilapidated -state. From a letter of the Commissioners in -1570, we find that the ditch and rampart on the -west part of the Castle was overgrown with moss -and small bushes; it contained three acres. The -Castle green was let, together with the “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">old walls -and ruinous void romes</span>” there—the lessee to keep -it clean for Sessions and Assizes. The Mayor had -lately repaired the roof of the hall; the Queen had -spent much money on its south aisle, but the -north aisle was so greatly decayed that the whole -edifice was in danger of falling. After this report,<a name="Anchor_22" id="Anchor_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 22.">[22]</a> -some repairs were probably undertaken.</p> - -<p>“Do not we see,” I continued, “as we stand -and gaze at this splendid structure, the pomp of -history sweep slowly past? Here advance Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> -and his bride Matilda of Scotland,<a name="Anchor_23" id="Anchor_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 23.">[23]</a> and Cœur de -Lion returned from captivity. Henry the Third and -the three Edwards were more frequent in their -visits and banquets.<a name="Anchor_24" id="Anchor_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 24.">[24]</a> Here is the studious young -William of Wykeham, secretary to Sir John de Scures, -Constable of the Castle. What is all this bridal -array?—Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr> and Joan of Brittany. Here the -warlike Henry <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr>, who may be claimed as a Winchester -boy, is receiving the French ambassadors<a name="Anchor_25" id="Anchor_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 25.">[25]</a> -who came with three hundred men; and here his -gentle son obtains less perishable honours as he -lays down the plan of Eton College on the lines -of Wykeham’s foundation. Here is the bluff and -jovial Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, holding high festival for the -handsome young Emperor Charles <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr>; and here is -melancholy Mary, doating on her faithless Philip.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p> -<div class="sidenote">The Hall.</div> - -<p>“James <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> gave the Castle to Benjamin Tichborne—a -name recalling a recent contest; and Charles -<abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> demolished most of it for the construction of -his more luxurious palace.</p> - -<p>“In Edward the First’s reign the Bishop of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Andrews though only a prisoner of war who had -opposed the King in Scotland, was confined here -in irons. It was then the rule rather than the -exception for such prisoners to be chained. A -Parliament was held here by Isabella and Mortimer, -and a cruel scene then followed the incarceration -of Edmund of Woodstock. He was brought out -in front of the main entrance to the Castle (through -the city wall) to be executed. There he was kept -“from morn till dewy eve” in a state of painful -suspense, for, to the credit of all, no one would be -induced to do the cruel deed. At last a prisoner, -to save his own life, decapitated him.”</p> - -<p>“I have often wondered,” observed Mr. Hertford, -“how any one could be induced to perform this -odious office against the lives of celebrated men. -We know the difficulty there was in the case of -Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, how disguises were used and what -suspicions there were as to who were the two -executioners.”</p> - -<p>“We have another sensational scene here,” I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> -proceeded, “before the time of Charles. When James -<abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> came to the throne the Castle Green was again -reddened with blood. Eleven persons, among them -Raleigh, were tried for conspiring against the King -and State. Several were condemned, as were Lord -Grey de Wilton and Lord Cobham, who were tried -in this hall.</p> - -<p>“I can see,” I said, “two men pacing up and -down here in great mental perturbation. Three -have already suffered on the Green, and Markham -and Lord Grey, having been led forth in all the -pomp of woe to execution, have been respited for a -couple of hours and turned into ‘Arthur’s Hall,’ to -gain what cold comfort they can from it. Then -Cobham was led forth, and Markham and Grey were -brought out to meet him. Reprieves were given—a -great shout from the assembled multitude rent -the air—and the pardoned looked at each other -and felt as if they were alive from the dead. -Raleigh saw all this performance from his prison, -and was agreeably surprised to hear that he also -was not to be executed. The Court was in the -Castle during this sensational period, and the ladies -were amusing themselves with small games such -as ‘Rise pig and go,’ and ‘One penny follow -me.’ Lady Arabella Stuart was with them in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> -whose behalf the conspiracy was said to have been -formed.”<a name="Anchor_26" id="Anchor_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 26.">[26]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cruel Sentence.</div> - -<p>We now come to what happened here at the -end of the Civil War, when Charles was within -Carisbrooke Castle, in the Isle of Wight. When -the Commissioners left, Hammond, who was in -charge of him, dismissed all the royal attendants. -This became known in the neighbourhood, where -the people were Royalists, and caused great indignation. -Thereupon a Captain Burleigh, a man of -good family in the island, who had been captain -of one of the King’s ships and afterwards a general -of ordnance in the army, had a drum beaten in -Newport, and called upon the people to take -arms and storm the Castle. It was a rash and -childish project, and sensible people held aloof from -it. Burleigh probably thought that he could not -be much punished, and no one had yet suffered for -treason in supporting the King. But the Parliament -took a new departure. Hammond arrested him, and -sent him a prisoner to Winchester Castle, and soon -a ferocious judge, whose name was Wild, was sent -down to condemn him. Sentence in the usual form<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> -was passed, and the unfortunate man sentenced to -be hanged and quartered here.</p> - -<p>Shortly afterwards Charles himself passed a night -here on his road from Hurst Castle to Windsor, -whence he took his last journey to London. Many -of the gentry and others came to meet him, and -the Mayor and Corporation prepared an address; -but Lieutenant Cobbett warned them, and having -fresh in their memories the tragic end of poor Burleigh, -they desisted and craved forgiveness.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Surrender of the Castle.</div> - -<p>At no period in its history did the Castle occupy -so conspicuous a position as during the Civil War. -From 1642 to 1645, there was frequently a conflict -raging here between the red scarf and the buff. -In the first-named year it was in the neglected -state into which it had gradually fallen, and the -Cavaliers who took refuge in it, found it an inadequate -place of safety, as there were no cannon on -its walls and Waller’s troops “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">beset them with -musqueteers and Horse, and lay perdues under the -wall so that not a man of them could stir</span>.” At -eleven at night the Cavaliers sounded for a parley—in -vain—and the besiegers next morning, lacking -artillery and petards, prepared a quantity of faggots -and tar barrels to burn the Castle gate. Then -negotiations commenced, and it was agreed that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> -Lord Grandison should surrender the Castle with all -arms, horses, and money, the garrison being granted -their lives. A scandalous scene of pillage ensued, -contrary to conditions. The men were stripped of -their clothes “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">four or five pulling at one cloak -like hounds at the leg of a dead horse</span>,” and the -officers were robbed of their purses. Waller left -Lord Grandison and some prisoners in the Castle, -under a small guard, but he found means to escape -to the King at Oxford, and suggested to Sir William -Ogle that he should try to rescue the prisoners. -Sir Richard Tichborne assisted, and in three days -they were in possession both of the Castle and of -the arms and ammunition of the enemy. Sir -William now strengthened the Castle, and made -it “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">as inaccessible as art could invent</span>,” considering -it the key to the whole Western country. He was -assisted by the Mayor and citizens, and put the -defences of the city into a better state than they -had been for years. Soon afterwards the Royalist -Western army of 3,000 Foot and 1,500 Horse -entered the town under Lord Hopton. Winchester -was generally a loyal town, but there were some -weak-kneed people there, who replied to the King -that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">they could not be justly blamed for endeavouring -to secure their lives and to keep their -wives and daughters from rapine and destruction</span>.”</p> - -<p>After the city had been three times plundered -by Waller it again held out for the King, and was -finally taken by Cromwell at the end of September, -1645. He advanced against it with three regiments -of infantry and 2000 cavalry. This strong force -and the memory of past defeats caused the resistance -to be half-hearted—indeed, the Mayor said -he would try to bring about a capitulation. After -the gate was fired, the Roundheads entered and -the Royalists fled to the Castle, which was soon -surrounded. Mines and batteries were immediately -commenced. “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">We have cooped up in the Castle -120 Horse and 400 Foot, and all the malignant -gentry and clergy of this Hampshire and Sussex, -with many Papists and Jesuits.</span>” Doctor Curle, the -Bishop of Winchester, remained firm to the King -on this trying occasion, and suffered accordingly. -Cromwell gave him permission to leave the city, -but he refused to accept it, and went into the -Castle with the soldiers. But next day, Thursday, -when the batteries were placed opposite the walls, -the Bishop thought he would as soon be somewhere -else, and sent to Cromwell to say he would accept -his offer. This advance was refused, and he was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> -told he would be treated as any other prisoner of -war.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Attack by Cromwell.</div> - -<p>On Friday the battery of six guns was perfected, -and on Saturday it began to play. Lord Ogle hoisted -a red flag of defiance. Notwithstanding Cromwell’s -Puritan views, he did not make Sunday a day of rest, -nor did he keep it holy, though he intermingled -prayer and preaching with battering—firing altogether -two hundred cannon balls in the day. The Royalists -replied; sometimes firing into the High Street, which -became unsafe for passengers, and at one time making -a sally and beating the Roundheads from their guns -for the moment. But the storm proved too severe, the -red flag was carried away by a shot, and granadoes -did great execution—one breaking through into the -hall and killing three men.<a name="Anchor_27" id="Anchor_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 27.">[27]</a> A wide breach was -made near the “Black Tower” and the Royalists -called out “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">A parley, a parley for God’s sake! Let -us have articles! Will you not hear us for a parley?</span>”</p> - -<p>We might have expected a more stubborn defence, -for the Castle was strongly fortified. If the besiegers -had entered the breach they would have had six -distinct works and a drawbridge to pass over. Moreover -victuals were abundant.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> - -<p>Cromwell now wrote the following unctuous letter -to Fairfax:—</p> - -<div class="quote" lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng"> -<p>“<span class="smcap">Sir</span>,—This is the addition of another mercy. -You see God is not weary of doing you good. I -confess, Sir, His favour to you is as visible when He -comes by His power upon the hearts of your -enemies, making them quit places of strength to you, -as when He gives courage to your soldiers to attempt -hard things. His goodness in this is much to be -acknowledged; for the Castle was well manned with -six hundred and eighty Horse and Foot, there being -near two hundred gentlemen, officers and their -servants, well victualled with 15 <abbr title="hundredweight">cwt.</abbr> of cheese, very -great store of wheat and beer, nearly 20 barrels of -powder, seven pieces of cannon; the works were -exceeding good and strong. It’s very likely it would -have cost much blood to have gained it by storm. -This is repeated to you that God may have all the -praise, for it’s all His due. Sir, I rest your most -humble servant,</p> - -<p class="smcap signed letter"> -“Oliver Cromwell.</p> - -<p class="letter"> -“<span class="smcap">Winchester</span>, <i>6th October, 1645</i>.”</p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">Cavaliers Disguised.</div> - -<p>Among the spoil were three or four hogsheads of -French wines and a hundred and twelve hogsheads of -strong beer. The Cavaliers felt a natural reluctance -that all this good tipple should go down rebel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> -throats, and seem to have done their best to prevent -such a calamity. The enemy were by the articles to -enter at eight on Monday morning, but the surrender -had to be delayed until after two, owing to the intoxicated -state of the garrison. “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">Viscount Ogle was -as drunk as a beggar</span>,” writes an eye-witness. “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">I had -come sooner had not my Lord Ogle and his company -been so unwilling to part with their sack and strong -beer, of which they drank so liberally at their farewell -that few of them, as it is their manner, could get -up on their horses without help.</span>” The Bishop and -his chaplain came out in their long gowns and cassocks, -and were granted an escort to protect them from -insult. Dr. Curle died a few years later in poverty.</p> - -<p>The Castle was conferred by Parliament on Sir -W. Waller, brother-in-law to Sir Henry Tichborne, -to whom it belonged. It had been in the Waller -family, who were connected with the Tichbornes. -Waller sold the Hall to the County and the Castle to -the Corporation of Winchester.<a name="Anchor_28" id="Anchor_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 28.">[28]</a></p> - -<p>The Parliaments of England sat occasionally in -this Hall for four hundred years after the Conquest. -Since Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s reign county business has -been transacted here, and from Cromwell’s time the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> -Law Courts have been established, the space being -divided, the upper part devoted to the Crown Court, -and the lower to Nisi Prius. Generations of judges -here shivered on the Bench, but at length a successful -demand was made that New Courts should be -constructed at the east end, and that this hall should -be only the vestibule and waiting-room. During a -long period the graceful pillars we now behold were -portly and shapeless, encased in cement a foot thick, -but in course of time the witnesses, plaintiffs, and -defendants who were kept kicking their heels here by -“the law’s delays” did some good, for they knocked -off the lower part of the cement and the marble -became visible. About fourteen years ago it was -determined to try the effect of removing the incrustation, -and the operation having proved successful on -one of the pillars near the door, the rest were soon -“translated.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palace of Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr></div> - -<p>Passing through the south door we found ourselves -beside the one remaining tower, massive in -strength and looking down from the height upon -a garden where once ran the castle moat. On -our right rises the high wall of a very different -structure—Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s red brick palace. The proportions -are magnificent and the whole effect worthy -of its great designer, Wren. The main entrance with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> -its six lofty pillars, acanthus-leaved capitals, and -heavy entablature surmounted by the royal arms is -scarcely visible from any point in the town, owing to -the conglomeration of houses below it, but a glimpse -can be obtained from a stable yard in Trafalgar -Street, turning out of the High Street.</p> - -<p>Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> laid the first stone in 1683. Evelyn -writes in that year that the palace was estimated to -cost <abbr title="35000 pounds">£35,000</abbr>, and the surveyor was purchasing land -for a park to be ten miles in circumference. There -was to be a cupola over it visible at sea. After -Newmarket was consumed by fire, the King was more -earnest to render Winchester the seat of his autumnal -field diversions. Two years later Evelyn was here, -and observed that <abbr title="20000 pounds">£20,000</abbr> had been expended on -the palace, but his Majesty (James <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>) did not seem -to encourage the work. Queen Anne surveyed it in -person, and would have completed it for the Prince of -Denmark had he lived. The first use made of it was -for the incarceration of French prisoners of war in -1756. It must have been at that time a dreadful -place; there were sometimes as many as five thousand -prisoners in it. In 1792 it was occupied by a number -of the exiled French clergy,<a name="Anchor_29" id="Anchor_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 29.">[29]</a> and a few years later<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> -was fitted up as a barrack, for which it has been ever -since used.</p> - -<p>Returning from the Castle to the Westgate we -found that the keys of the Tower were kept at <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -John’s Hospital at the other end of the High Street, -and that it was necessary to obtain the permission -of the civic authorities. This caused some -delay, but when I returned we entered, and, -ascending the rugged stairs, came to a cell where -prisoners were until lately confined. Proceeding -higher we reached the chamber over the arch—a -handsome room with an ancient carved mantel-piece. -The cause of the precautions taken with -regard to visitors now become intelligible; for here -are the archives of the city—volumes of records -beginning with Philip and Mary, and piles of -ancient vellum rolls. I observed a fine charter of -Elizabeth’s reign, commencing with an etched -portrait of the Queen, as a young girl, and a -grandiloquent reference to Mary and Philip, as -sovereigns of England, Scotland, France, Naples, -Jerusalem, and Ireland. The rarest of these old -documents were for a long time thought to be lost, -but when, some ten years ago, inquiry was being -made in a solicitor’s office in Peter’s Street, for a -charter of Richard <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, one of the clerks said:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> -“Oh, we have a box full of these old things,” showing -some parchments. And here, upon examination, -were found twenty of these ancient records!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The City Coffer.</div> - -<p>In this room is the huge old city chest, nearly ten -feet long by four wide. It has three locks and -different keys, and long chains and rings by which -it could be carried about like the Ark of the -Israelites.</p> - -<p>“From what we read of the propensities of the -Jews,” said Mr. Hertford, “I should say they would -have preferred such an ark as this to their own.”</p> - -<p>“Well, some of them would, perhaps,” I replied. -“Their ark carried the law and holy things, but this -contained the coin, and also the gold and silver plate -of the city.”</p> - -<p>It was heavily drawn upon in Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s reign for -the King’s benefit. On December 30, 1643, there -were taken out for the maintenance of the army:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line">One silver ewer, weighing 33 oz.</div> - <div class="p_line">Three silver bowls, 31 oz.</div> - <div class="p_line">Two silver wine bowls, 15 oz.</div> - <div class="p_line">One gilt bowl with cover, 31 oz.</div> - <div class="p_line">One great silver salt, 28 oz.</div> - <div class="p_line">One silver tankard, 19 oz.</div> - <div class="p_line">One silver basin, 74 oz.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Previously they had sent him <abbr title="300 pounds">£300</abbr> raised by sale -of plate.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Why, the good aldermen could scarcely have left -themselves a cup for drinking the King’s health,” -observed Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>“Nor had they much wine for that purpose,” I added. -“They had sent the King already a sum of <abbr title="1000 pounds">£1,000</abbr>, -and the Roundheads tapped them pretty freely.”</p> - -<p>This large chest reminds me of another there is -at Upham, in which, when at Marwell Hall near -this, a girl playing hide-and-seek concealed herself. -She could not raise the lid, and nothing was known -about her mysterious disappearance until years afterwards -when her skeleton was found—a melancholy -treasure.</p> - -<p>Passing through the gate I admired the exterior. -There was machicolation over it for giving assailants -a warm reception, perhaps because there was no ditch -in front of it. There was a moat on each side, but on -account of the difference of level, they did not meet -here. Milner says that there was part of a Saxon -chapel adhering to this building.</p> - -<p>As we were about to move on, the magic of history -brought a scene before my mind. Stay! what is that -concourse and cavalcade before the gate? I hear a -voice proclaiming—</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> -<p>“Let no merchant or other for these sixteen days, -within a circuit of sixteen leagues round the Fair, sell, -buy, or set out for sale, any merchandise in any place -but the Fair, under a penalty of forfeiture of goods -to the Bishop.”</p> - -<p>The Mayor is presenting the keys of the gate, but -what sour countenances have he and his fellow -citizens! Is not this what took place in the fourteenth -century, on the eve of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ fair?</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Plague.</div> - -<p>As it was a fine autumnal day I now strolled right -away by myself for a country walk. Just before me -was an obelisk raised to commemorate the Plague of -1666, when the markets had to be placed outside the -town. It stands upon the very stone on which -exchanges were then made, the money being dropped -into a bowl of water to avoid contagion. I saw in -large letters on the obelisk that it was erected by the -“Society of Natives,” somewhat suggestive of oysters, -or of some primitive race descended from them, but -I found the reference was to an association formed -immediately after the plague, with the benevolent -object of assisting the widows and orphans of those -who had died.</p> - -<p>An old man told me that when at work in a cellar -near this, in Newburgh Street, he found, seven feet -down, about a hundred rusty old swords. He was -told they were Saxon, and that if he had sent them -to the Queen he should never have had to do another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> -day’s work, “a consummation,” according to his views, -“devoutly to be wished.” Some of them were sent -to the Museum, but as I could not find them there, I -doubted whether they were really Saxon.</p> - -<p>Proceeding towards the country I saw on my right -the Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Paul’s in course of construction—the -work seems to have fallen into a state of chronic -debility. It stands on the foundations of the old -Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Anastasius, and this district which -seems fresh and cheerful is mostly historical from -disease. It was depopulated by a pestilence in -1348, and never until lately recovered. At the end -of the fifteenth century this church, and one with the -pleasant name of “<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary’s of the Valley,” were -taken down, and Wyke Chapel made the parish -church.</p> - -<p>On the left I passed a red brick building, with -some handsome trees beside it. This was the Union -Workhouse—a bright, comfortable-looking edifice, -which ought to cheer the hearts of any farmers and -landowners who are thinking of soon entering it. -At the back they will find a public recreation ground, -called “Oram’s Arbour,” with seats, where they can -rest and reflect upon their past fortunes, and bless -Oram, who, having a lease of great length, generously -surrendered it on condition that the ground should be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> -free to the citizens for ever. There were, forty years -ago, on the western side of it, where houses have -been built, a fosse and bank, probably made by the -Royalists in Cromwell’s time, though some have -regarded them as a part of the old British defences -of the town.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Wyke.</div> - -<p>Farther on I passed a row of cottages with brightly -flowering gardens, and after continuing up the hill -between hedges white with “travellers’ joy,” for about -half a mile, descended beneath overhanging larches, -and came to the village of Wyke, with its little boulevard -of pollard lime trees. Having obtained the -keys at an adjoining cottage, I entered the tiny -church beneath the Norman arch, and looked at the -East window, which contains bits of old glass and -has coloured scroll work round it.</p> - -<p>The chapel is mentioned by Henry de Blois, but -was rebuilt in Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s reign. Within the -chancel is a stone in the wall about eighteen inches -square, in memory of Dr. Harpesfelde, who died in -1550. This person was a nephew of Johanna, Viscountess -Lisle, who bequeathed to him as a “scholar -of Bologna,” twelve pounds, six silver spoons, a silver -cup, and a gown. He was made by Wolsey Commissary-general -of the diocese, and assisted at the -enthronement of Gardiner. Towards the end of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> -life he lived here, and went about in a horse litter. -The engraver has made his inscription conspicuous -by forming the chief letters very large and inserting -the others inside them—an early suggestion of shorthand.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_harpesfelde" id="image_harpesfelde"><img src="images/harpesfelde.jpg" alt="The Epitaph of Dr. Harpesfelde" /></a> - <p class="caption" lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng"> - HERE LYETH<br />MR DOCTR HA<br />RPESEECDE PSON<br />HERE 1550 APRI III - </p> -<p class="caption"> - THE EPITAPH OF DR. HARPESFELDE. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The greater part of the present building is of -Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s time. There are here abundant -monuments to the Godwin family. I was somewhat -amused at one, which, after setting forth a long -catalogue of virtues, ended by bidding the exhausted -reader—“Blush, if you do not venerate the name of -Thomas Godwin.”<a name="Anchor_30" id="Anchor_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 30.">[30]</a></p> - -<p>Just opposite the door there is in the wall a curious -little brass, about a foot high and six inches wide.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> -Many people come to take rubbings of it. Here is -represented <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Christopher carrying the infant Christ. -The saint is wading through a stream, and in his -anxiety to behold the face of his sacred burden seems -to have dislocated his neck. The inscription beneath -runs as follows:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container gothic" lang="enm" xml:lang="enm"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line">Here lieth will’m Complyn</div> - <div class="p_line">& Annes his wife yᵉ Whiche</div> - <div class="p_line">will’m decessid yᵉ xxj day of</div> - <div class="p_line">mayj yᵉ yere of oure lord</div> - <div class="p_line">mc.c.c.clxxxxviiii. Also this be</div> - <div class="p_line">ze dedis yᵗ ze said will’m hath</div> - <div class="p_line">down to this Church of Wike</div> - <div class="p_line">yᵗ is to say frest dedycacion</div> - <div class="p_line">of yᵉ Church xlˢ & to make</div> - <div class="p_line">newe bellis to yᵉ sam Church</div> - <div class="p_line">xˡ also gave to yᵉ halloyeng</div> - <div class="p_line">of yᵉ grettest bell vjˢ. viij. d.</div> - <div class="p_line">& for yᵉ testimonyall’ of the</div> - <div class="p_line">dedicacion of yᵉ sam Church</div> - <div class="p_line">vjˢ viii. d. on whos soules</div> - <div class="p_line">ihu have mercy Amen.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>I observed that <i>z</i> is here twice put for <i>y</i>—and the -fact reminded me of the pronunciation of the agricultural -people here.</p> - -<p>As I left the quaint little sanctuary I found an old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> -labouring man standing outside gazing at it wistfully -in an attitude of meditation. I was glad to see this. -“The poorest,” I thought, “can appreciate the ancient -and the beautiful.” But his reflections were more -practical. As I passed he gave me a curious look, -and said, with a twinkle in his grey eyes—</p> - -<p>“Richest living about Winchester, zir.”</p> - -<p>“Indeed,” I replied. “How much do you make -it?”</p> - -<p>“Eight hundred and fifty, zir.”</p> - -<p>“The rector would be glad to receive half that,” -I returned.</p> - -<p>Resuming my walk I soon came in sight of a white -cylindrical building with a globular top, on the high -ground of Harestock. As I saw my agricultural -friend trudging after me I stopped to ask him about -it.</p> - -<p>“What is that?” I inquired.</p> - -<p>“That? Oh that is a place for looking at the -stars. It belongs to Captain Knight; he is a great -astrologer.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Littleton.</div> - -<p>As I did not want my horoscope cast I passed on, -and proceeded along a hilly road between high banks, -where grew the blue scabious and long spikes of -yellow agrimony and mullein, till in two miles I -descended into the village of Littleton. The church<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> -has been restored and thus lost much of its interest, -but there is here a dark square font of massive stone, -by which we think we can see the immediate -descendants of the Norman invaders standing to -have their children christened. There is also a brass -on the floor in front of the chancel dating from 1493. -Opening into the churchyard is an old cottage -parsonage, in which the clergyman formerly lived -when he was—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Passing rich on forty pounds a year.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">On one side was the large, low kitchen with its wide -hearth; on the other, the little room which was the -parson’s drawing-room, parlour, and study.<a name="Anchor_31" id="Anchor_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 31.">[31]</a></p> - -<p>Two years ago there was a great conflagration -opposite this church, a number of cottages were -burnt, and some of the villagers had narrow escapes.</p> - -<p>This is three miles from Winchester, and a mile -further on I came to Mr. Carrick Moore’s house, his -large stables for racehorses, and a field laid out with -jumps for training steeplechasers. The racecourse is -not far from this on the right. Racing has long been -a favourite amusement at Winchester. In 1634 a cup -was provided by the city; and again in 1705, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> -Queen Anne was here, the kindly civic chest was not -appealed to in vain. This was an improvement on -the old sport of bull-baiting, for which it had been -ordered that two Winchester butchers should provide -two or three times a year one “sufficient fighting -bull,” the other butchers contributing <abbr title="6 pence">6d.</abbr> each a year.</p> - -<p>At this point there is on the left a distant view of -the woods of Mr. Vanderbyl, and passing on along -grassy banks, spangled with rock cistus, I came to a -pool at the commencement of Crawley. The village -runs up a hill, at the top of which is the church -adjacent to the beautiful grounds of Crawley Court -(Lord Kinnaird). The church is reached through -an avenue of limes: it contains some small Norman -pillars, a brass recording diffusely the virtues of a -rector named Reniger, who died in 1606, and a chest -which once performed the double service of strongbox -and communion table.</p> - -<p>From this point I returned to the pool, and taking -the road to the right came in about two miles to the -woods of Lainston on the right, and a double avenue -of limes opposite the lodge of Mr. Vanderbyl. A -mile farther on a loftier avenue opens, at the end -of which stood Lainston House. I cannot say that I -saw it clearly for the sun dazzled me, setting directly -behind it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">A Maid of Honour.</div> - -<p>Close to the house stand the ruins of Lainston -Church, picturesquely situated in dense woods. Here -one fine August morning, in 1744, the gay Miss -Chudleigh was privately married to Hervey, a naval -officer, who became third Earl of Bristol. Notwithstanding -this, and her having two children, she -continued to be called “Miss Chudleigh,” and to -be a maid of honour. George <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> affected to be in -love with her, and even went so far as to kiss her at a -party. Twenty-five years afterwards she contracted -a bigamous marriage with Pierrepont, Duke of -Kingston, which was set aside. She was a prominent -figure in Ranelagh Gardens, and her dress -seems to have harmonized with her performances. -Walpole says that on one occasion she appeared -at a masquerade as Iphigenia, but “as naked as -Andromeda.”<a name="Anchor_32" id="Anchor_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 32.">[32]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_sparsholt" id="image_sparsholt"><img src="images/sparsholt.jpg" alt="Sparsholt Church" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Sparsholt Church. - </p> -</div> - -<p>In this vicinity, but lying off the high road and -consequently little visited by strangers, is the -scattered village of Sparsholt, with its two inns, -one shop, and post office. It was perhaps a more -important place in ancient days, for Roman relics -have been found here. The church is small; its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> -architecture varies from transitional Norman to -Perpendicular. During the late restorations the -tomb of a priest was opened, and with him were -found a chalice and paten of latten, now in the -vicar’s possession.</p> - -<p>The village water supply is obtained from a well -of unusual depth. Over it is placed a large broad -wheel, and the ropes by which the buckets are -lowered and raised are coiled round what may be -called the axle. The water drawer steps on the stairs -of the wheel to raise the bucket, and if unused to the -treadmill—which no doubt these happy rustics are—must -be well tired before his efforts are crowned with -success.</p> - -<p>Down the road is a stile by which one may enter -what is locally known as the “Avenue,” a lovely -piece of woodland scenery, abounding in noble -trees. Here we may pleasantly rest for a while, -and listen to the cooing of wood-pigeons or watch -squirrels at their merry gambols. Through this a -path leads to the high road, along which, past Harestock -and Wyke, we reach Winchester again.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1" href="#Anchor_1" title="Return to text.">[1]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Additional Manuscripts">Add. MSS.</abbr></cite> 6036.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#Anchor_2" title="Return to text.">[2]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Patent">Pat.</abbr> Rolls</cite>, 8 Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr> The foundations of a church -with two monoliths in them have been discovered near <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -George’s Street.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#Anchor_3" title="Return to text.">[3]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain">Patent and Close Rolls</cite>.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4" href="#Anchor_4" title="Return to text.">[4]</a></td> - <td>“<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">Every man having a holding or garden bounding on the -High Street shall enclose the same with a sufficient pale or -stone wall upon pain of <abbr title="20 shillings">20s.</abbr></span>” (<abbr title="Edward the Sixth">Edw. VI.</abbr>, Black Book). Thatch -was forbidden in this street in 1652.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5" href="#Anchor_5" title="Return to text.">[5]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Additional Manuscripts">Add. MSS.</abbr></cite> 6036.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6" href="#Anchor_6" title="Return to text.">[6]</a></td> - <td>He adds that there is outside the city a dry chalky down -where the air is worth sixpence a pint.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7" href="#Anchor_7" title="Return to text.">[7]</a></td> - <td>It then belonged to the Mayor and Corporation, who had -it repaired.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8" href="#Anchor_8" title="Return to text.">[8]</a></td> - <td>See “<cite class="plain">Historic Winchester</cite>,” by Misses Bramston and Leroy.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9" href="#Anchor_9" title="Return to text.">[9]</a></td> - <td>“<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">In castello Wincestre apud Wintoniam in thesauro.</span>” -Mr. Hubert Hall thinks that the book was removed soon afterwards -to London, but Mr. Round is of opinion that it remained -in Winchester until the last quarter of the twelfth century. I -cannot venture to decide a question upon which such eminent -authorities are at variance.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10" href="#Anchor_10" title="Return to text.">[10]</a></td> - <td>In an engraving in my possession, dated 1787, part of this -old wall is seen adhering to the east end of the hall, and the -entrance is in the original place.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11" href="#Anchor_11" title="Return to text.">[11]</a></td> - <td>We read of the “Hermits” and “Black” towers. Mr. -Stopher informs me that, judging by the base of the North -Tower, uncovered in 1876, “these towers were some of the -finest in the kingdom, with handsome double plinths.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12" href="#Anchor_12" title="Return to text.">[12]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain">Patent Rolls</cite>, 48 Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13" href="#Anchor_13" title="Return to text.">[13]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain">Patent Rolls</cite>, 5 John.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14" href="#Anchor_14" title="Return to text.">[14]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain">Close Rolls</cite>, 7 John. The houses in Winchester, called -La Parrok, were given to Galfro de Hanville, for keeping -girfalcons by Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> (6th year, <cite class="plain">Close Rolls</cite>).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15" href="#Anchor_15" title="Return to text.">[15]</a></td> - <td>There are traces of round windows near the roof, which have -been walled up, and there are some iron hooks remaining, on -which shutters were hung before glass was permanently inserted.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16" href="#Anchor_16" title="Return to text.">[16]</a></td> - <td>Henry <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr> was here, and at his funeral Arthur’s traditional -bearings, three crowns, were carried.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17" href="#Anchor_17" title="Return to text.">[17]</a></td> - <td>The table had twelve legs, and it is supposed that it was -made round to avoid any invidious precedence, and that it was -intended for the feasting of the knights at a tournament. -There was generally a desire to throw some legendary glory -around these “solemnities.” The paint, except on the lines -between the segments, has not been touched since Henry -<abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s time.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18" href="#Anchor_18" title="Return to text.">[18]</a></td> - <td>Some persons think that the legends of King Arthur have -been wrongly attached to this neighbourhood through Winchester, -“Gwent,” being mistaken for the “Gwent” in Monmouthshire.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19" href="#Anchor_19" title="Return to text.">[19]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Patent">Pat.</abbr> Rolls</cite>, 16 Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> m 5. There was a hall here -previously.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20" href="#Anchor_20" title="Return to text.">[20]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Patent">Pat.</abbr></cite> 45 Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21" href="#Anchor_21" title="Return to text.">[21]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain">Close Rolls</cite>, 6 Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22" href="#Anchor_22" title="Return to text.">[22]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain">Cotton</cite>. Titus, B. <abbr title="2">ii.</abbr> 242.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23" href="#Anchor_23" title="Return to text.">[23]</a></td> - <td>He took her from the Nunnery of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary’s, at Romsey. -Rufus went to court her, but the abbess showed him the convent -garden with the “Romsey roses,” where he saw her attired like -a nun. She was buried in this Cathedral with the inscription -“<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">called by the English Molde the good Queen</span>.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24" href="#Anchor_24" title="Return to text.">[24]</a></td> - <td>Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> threw the Winchester jury into the lowest dungeon -of the Castle because they would not find guilty thirty highwaymen, -friends of theirs, whom he condemned to be hanged.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25" href="#Anchor_25" title="Return to text.">[25]</a></td> - <td>The King’s spokesman on the occasion was the celebrated -Archbishop Chicheley—originally a poor boy whom Wykeham -met on the road and patronized.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26" href="#Anchor_26" title="Return to text.">[26]</a></td> - <td>See notice in “<cite class="plain">Historic Winchester</cite>,” by Misses Bramston -and Leroy.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27" href="#Anchor_27" title="Return to text.">[27]</a></td> - <td>There is a ball in the Museum which fell in the Castle Hall.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28" href="#Anchor_28" title="Return to text.">[28]</a></td> - <td>An interesting account of “<cite class="plain">The Civil War in and around -Winchester</cite>” has been published by the <abbr title="Reverend">Rev.</abbr> G. N. Godwin.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29" href="#Anchor_29" title="Return to text.">[29]</a></td> - <td>There is in the Bodleian a book of rules to be observed by -these priests. They were to avoid going out together in large -numbers so as not to attract attention.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30" href="#Anchor_30" title="Return to text.">[30]</a></td> - <td>Mr. Baigent has written an interesting little book on Wyke.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31" href="#Anchor_31" title="Return to text.">[31]</a></td> - <td>Wyke, Compton, and Chilcombe were given to the monastery -to support commemorative festivals, but Littleton for the entertainment -of guests.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32" href="#Anchor_32" title="Return to text.">[32]</a></td> - <td>A picture of her “in Ranelagh costume” was long hanging -in the Chelsea bunhouse.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> - -<h2 class="faux">SECOND DAY.</h2> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_butter" id="image_butter"><img src="images/butter.jpg" alt="The Butter Cross and Penthouse" /></a> - <p class="caption cut">THE BUTTER CROSS AND PENTHOUSE.</p> -</div> - -<p class="chapter_head_insert">SECOND DAY.</p> -<p class="summary">“God Begot” House — The High Street — Old -Guildhall — Butter Cross — King -Alfred — The Penthouse — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Maurice’s Church — The Bell and -Crown — New Guildhall — Museum — Archives — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Mary’s Nunnery — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -John’s Hospital — Soke Prison — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Giles’ Hill — The Fair.</p> - -<p>Next morning we started in -the opposite direction—eastward<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> -down the High Street. On the left-hand side we -soon came to a curiously narrow street or alley, -running beside a large bookseller’s shop, and entering -it saw above us an immense timber-crossed gable, -leaning over so as almost to touch the opposite -houses. Further down the alley—in which the -“Royal Oak” public-house, once the “Cross Keys,” -is situated—we still see above us a line of overhanging -stories. We can walk round this block, and -return into the High Street by <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s Street.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_passage" id="image_passage"><img src="images/passage.jpg" alt="Royal Oak Passage" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Royal Oak Passage - </p> -</div> - -<p>This building, on which is inscribed in large letters -“God-begot House,” is at present occupied by the -two establishments of Mr. Perkins, a draper, and -Miss Pamplin, a stationer. From the house of the -former the panelling has been removed, but behind -the shop is a small room with a richly stuccoed -ceiling.</p> - -<p>Miss Pamplin showed us over her house with -great courtesy. The upper part is wainscoted with -oak. The drawing-room is handsome—low, of -course—and it has many beams in the ceiling, -radiating from the centre. The walls are covered -with carved panelling, the most elaborate part, over -the fireplace, exhibiting small round-headed arches -with intricate mouldings, while the opposite wall is -adorned with lines of large rosettes. The bedroom in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> -the roof at the back shows some curious woodwork; -from it there is a good view of the back of this old-world -edifice, with its long-tiled roofs sloping inwards -to a central court.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">God-begot House.</div> - -<p>This house, which dates from 1667, is large, and -let in apartments. It stands on the site of the -Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s, in Macellis—that is, in the -shambles—and was surrounded by butchers’ stalls, <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Peter’s Street having been called Fleshmonger Street. -There seems to have been a house of an ecclesiastical -character, called “God-begot,” adjoining the church, -and the privileges of the spot are said to have been -originally granted by Queen Emma, the mother of -Edward the Confessor, to the Priory of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun. -It was a sanctuary—a place of refuge for the guilty—and -many conflicts arose about it between the civil -and ecclesiastical authorities, sometimes men being -forcibly dragged out of it. Strange to say, it was -also a manor. A record was kept here; courts were -held, and judgments delivered.</p> - -<p>On the opposite side of the street is the old Guildhall, -in front of which a large clock is held out over -the street by an arm of old carved wood.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_old" id="image_old"><img src="images/old.jpg" alt="The Old Guildhall" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Old Guildhall. - </p> -</div> - -<p>“Why it looks as if it might fall on one’s head,” -said Miss Hertford.</p> - -<p>“If you have any fear of that,” I replied,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> “be -assured there is nothing in it; the case is empty, the -works being in the curfew tower above.”</p> - -<p>“What is the meaning of the three swords over -it?” inquired Miss Hertford. “They remind me of -a conjuring trick.”</p> - -<p>“They represent the arms of Paulet, Marquess of -Winchester,” I replied; “to whom the small fee farm-rent -of the city, once belonging to the Crown, is still -paid. The most remarkable thing about this clock -is that it is very troublesome, as like other old timepieces, -it requires to be wound up every day.”</p> - -<p>The old Guildhall was behind the figure of Queen -Anne on the first floor, the ground floor belonging -to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s Hospital. This division preserved the -fine oak staircase to the hall, which necessarily led up -from a side street. We went up these stairs, and -Miss Hertford observed they were in a very dirty -condition, but, as our guide said they were used -every day for winding and lighting the clock, -and ringing the bell in the curfew tower,<a name="Anchor_33" id="Anchor_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 33.">[33]</a> we were -not much surprised. The panelling in the old -Guildhall has been removed to the new one. No -mayor and aldermen now sit here in state, but there -are plenty of gowns, robes, and collars, for the hall<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> -has been formed into the show-rooms of Mr. King’s -drapery establishment.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Butter Cross.</div> - -<p>The next object that claims our attention is the -Butter Cross. It dates from the reign of Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>, -when a fraternity employed themselves in erecting -such structures. If we recall past times we shall -picture to ourselves here a motley crowd of market -people intermixed with brethren of the cord and -gown, and shall hear much noisy bargaining going -forward. Later on, about 1650, we find a more -stately gathering. The guild of merchants were to -meet the Mayor every Sunday here to accompany -him to church. This would seem to have been a -compulsory, rather than a voluntary, meeting, and -about seventy years earlier we find people imprisoned -for not attending “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">sermonds</span>.”</p> - -<p>“It is to be regretted that this disinclination continues,” -said Miss Hertford, “but those who frequent -the afternoon services at cathedrals, cannot fail to -observe the desire there is to hear the anthem and -avoid the discourse.”</p> - -<p>In a sketch of this Cross, made in the year 1770,<a name="Anchor_34" id="Anchor_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 34.">[34]</a> -we find the upper niches vacant. The only ancient -figure is that of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Laurence, who holds what appears -to be a sword, but is in reality intended for a palm<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> -branch. This Cross was sold by the City Corporation -to Mr. Dummer, in the middle of the last century, and -was in danger of being removed (as the Bristol Cross -actually was); but the good people of Winchester -rose indignantly when they heard of the intended sacrilege, -forcibly drove away the men engaged to do -the objectionable work.</p> - -<p>Under the passage which leads from the Cross to -the “Square” is the door to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Lawrence’s Church, -a building curiously inserted among houses. It reminds -us of the way in which Winchester was in -olden times honey-combed with churches and -chapels. This is considered to be the mother -church of Winchester, the bishop is inducted here, -and goes into the tower to ring the bell. Most of -the present edifice is modern, but the tower and east -window are of the fifteenth century. Opposite the -entrance to this church is a piece of Norman stone-work -with some ornamental carving upon it—the -only specimen of the domestic architecture of that -date in Winchester—perhaps a part of the palace -built here by William the Conqueror, which extended -up this side of the High Street,<a name="Anchor_35" id="Anchor_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 35.">[35]</a> and across to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> -Minster Street and Lane. The foundations of an -ancient tower of “prodigious strength” were found -at the beginning of the present century by a workman -digging in Market Street.</p> - -<p>We are now close to the “Square” where the -Saxon palace probably stood.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Name of England.</div> - -<p>The Saxon period was in one respect the most -remarkable in Winchester, for the city was then the -capital of Wessex, and Wessex became the mother -of England. We read in the old chroniclers that -Egbert was crowned in Winchester Cathedral the -first King of England, and that at a Witenagemot or -parliament, held by him here in the year 800, it was -determined that the name of England should supersede -that of Britain. Egbert was the first who -united the kingdoms of the heptarchy, and the -probability that he changed the name is increased -by the fact that “Anglia,” which is nowhere found -in any document anterior to this time, begins to -appear immediately afterwards.<a name="Anchor_36" id="Anchor_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 36.">[36]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alfred the Great.</div> - -<p>But the principal figure that the Saxon palace at -Winchester brings before us, is that of Alfred. He -deserved the title of Great better than many who -obtained it, for he was not only victorious in battle,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> -but was essentially a scholar—indeed his successes -were mainly the result of his study and industry. A -shade of melancholy seems always to have hung over -his mind, perhaps due to his constant physical suffering, -though he writes:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line_i8">“To those who eat</div> - <div class="p_line">Honeycomb it seems more sweet,</div> - <div class="p_line">If a man before the tear</div> - <div class="p_line">Of honey, taste of bitter cheer.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">In the following lines there is a touch of sadness -worthy of the author of Ecclesiastes:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Why did your songs to me,</div> - <div class="p_line_i2">World-loving men,</div> - <div class="p_line">Say joy belongs to me</div> - <div class="p_line_i2">Ever as then?</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line">Why did ye lyingly</div> - <div class="p_line_i2">Think such a thing,</div> - <div class="p_line">Seeing how flyingly</div> - <div class="p_line_i2">Wealth may take wing?”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Many are accustomed to speak despondingly of -the degeneracy of the nineteenth century, but it -sounds strange to hear Alfred condemning the luxury -of his time, which we generally regard as semi-civilized. -He looks back regretfully to the good old -days:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“When through all the world there were</div> - <div class="p_line">No great halls of costly care,</div> - <div class="p_line">No rich feasts of meat and drink</div> - <div class="p_line">Neither did they heed or think</div> - <div class="p_line">Of such jewels then unknown</div> - <div class="p_line">As our lordlings long to own.</div> - <div class="p_line">Nor did seamen e’er behold</div> - <div class="p_line">Nor had heard of gems or gold.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">We may picture Alfred living in his palace here, -surrounded by this rude magnificence, but with -a mind far above its allurements. His life corroborated -the saying that religion is best for both -worlds. Perhaps his devotional tendencies came -from his father, who had been a monk. He ever -consorted with learned men, and made great improvements, -among others rendering his fleet more -efficient. There was great joy in Winchester in -899 when, after a sea fight between the Saxons and -Danes, two of the marauders’ ships were captured, -and the crews brought here to the King, and hanged -on the gallows.</p> - -<p>A copy of an ancient charter giving property to -the church of Evesham is interesting, as it shows -Rufus here in 1100, surrounded by the bishops of -London, Lincoln, and Durham, the abbots of Westminster -and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Albans, the Chancellor, and many -other barons of the whole of England, at the solemn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> -feast of Easter.<a name="Anchor_37" id="Anchor_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 37.">[37]</a> It was from this that Rufus started -on his unfortunate expedition into the New Forest.</p> - -<p>It is supposed that somewhere in the neighbourhood -of the Conqueror’s palace were the mint and -treasury. It is said that the six mints established -by Athelstan were under the site of the Penthouse.<a name="Anchor_38" id="Anchor_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 38.">[38]</a> -As I had heard of some vaults remaining which -I could not find, I went into one of the shops there -to inquire.</p> - -<p>“Well, sir,” replied the owner, “I have some -doubts whether there ever was any mint here; but,” -he added, with a comical expression, “I am quite -certain there is none now.”</p> - -<p>The site of the “Penthouse” was originally occupied -by the “Draperie.” Trade guilds existed here -from Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s time, and this became the Guildhall. -Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> ordered that this Draperie Street should -be the “Great Street,” as in the time of his father. -In Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s reign we find the Penthouse mentioned -as the “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">Pentisse</span>.”</p> - -<p>“Such shelters were very welcome a hundred years -ago,” said Mr. Hertford,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> “before umbrellas were used. -You know that some have thought that in ‘under the -rose,’ the word should be ‘rows.’”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Murder by a Priest.</div> - -<p>“Close to this,” I continued, “beside the wall of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Lawrence’s Church, a murder took place, in the -twenty-first year of Richard <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, which brings before -us the lawless state of the times. One James Dyngeley, -a priest, struck a man named Walter Pynchon, -through the back to the heart with a baslard. This -weapon was a large dagger suspended to the girdle, -and worn by laymen and by some priests, notwithstanding -an ecclesiastical prohibition. Roger, the -parson of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Lawrence, claimed the prisoner (as an -ecclesiastic) for the Bishop of Winchester, and he -was incarcerated in Wolvesey Castle. From this he -broke out with others on the 5th of December, in -the fifth year of Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>, but was pardoned by -the King for this and other felonies—a proof of the -influence of the Church in those days.”<a name="Anchor_39" id="Anchor_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 39.">[39]</a></p> - -<p>The next church we come to is <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Maurice’s, which -is modern, the fifteenth-century tower has a good -Norman doorway looking towards the Cathedral. -There are some old registers belonging to this church -which record the burials of men killed in the Soke -(across the bridge), fighting with the Roundheads in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> -the days of Cromwell. There is a monument here -in which the admirers of William Widmore have -made him ridiculous for ever, by calling him “a -friend without guile, and an apothecary without -ostentation;” the less excusable, as they say he was -“an honest Englishman.”</p> - -<p>Opposite this church is a passage leading to the -“Bell and Crown.” A hostel of that name has stood -here ever since Henry <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr>’s reign. The building now -on the spot is old, and has been evidently much -altered. The wall of the staircase is spotted over -with a small blue pattern.</p> - -<p>“I thought there was a paper on the wall,” said the -landlord, “and was going to have another put over -it; but a gentleman said to me, ‘Do no such thing. -Why, that is stencilled! there is not another house -in Winchester can show such decoration.’”</p> - -<p>Stencilling was much used in the last century.</p> - -<p>“I have heard,” said Mr. Hertford, “that the -celebrated Miss Mellon (Duchess of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Albans) went -about when young with her father and a company of -actors who, as occasion offered, acted plays and -stencilled rooms.”</p> - -<p>The work is performed by placing against the wall -a thin piece of metal on which a pattern has been -cut, and then brushing paint over it. This ornamentation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> -is interesting, as showing the transition -from frescoes and panelling to paper-hangings.</p> - -<p>The passage in front of the “Bell and Crown” -was formerly a large archway, on the eastern side -of which there was a hall for entertainments.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_guildhall" id="image_guildhall"><img src="images/guildhall.jpg" alt="The Guildhall" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Guildhall. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The new Guildhall is a handsome and conspicuous -modern building, and stands on the site of the old -Globe Hotel. Adjoining it is the Free Library—one -of the first established in England. There are some -old pictures in the Council Chamber, especially one -of Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, by Sir P. Lely, given by that monarch -to the Corporation. There is also one of the first -Marquess of Winchester—a piece of painted board -which may teach some worldly wisdom. William -Paulet was made a peer by Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, a marquess -by Edward <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>, and was High Treasurer under Mary -and Elizabeth. How did he accomplish all this? -“By being a willow, not an oak.”<a name="Anchor_40" id="Anchor_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 40.">[40]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Museum.</div> - -<p>I mounted the staircase to visit the Museum, which -is at the top of the building. The greater part of -the treasures it contains are “prehistoric,” and lent -by Lord Northesk during his life. There is here one -of the finest collections in existence of stone axes and -arrow heads, and specimens from barbarous countries<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> -of our own day, showing how they were hafted and -fastened with sinews or matting.</p> - -<p>But I felt more interested in the local antiquities. -Here is a Roman pavement, found at the corner of -Minster Lane, about a hundred yards in front of the -west gate of the Cathedral. It is only a segment, and -the preservation of it cost <abbr title="300 pounds">£300</abbr>, which may account -for other remains of this kind being allowed to perish. -The depth at which it was found was ten feet, so that -we may conclude it was laid down soon after the -Romans arrived, unless some accidental circumstances -led to accumulations over it. The specimens -of Roman pottery show us the extent of their town -here, for some pieces were found in Water Lane, just -over the eastern bridge, while others were dug up in -Hyde Street, on the extreme north-west of the city.</p> - -<p>Opposite these remains we find a brave row of -weights and measures—standard measures for England -were first introduced by Edgar at Winchester. -Some good citizens maintain with pardonable vanity -that one of Edgar’s measuring vessels is still here, -but that is not the case. I hoped to be able to hang -a story on one of the pegs that good king had put -in the Saxon cups; but no material proof of his -precautions to prevent tippling or cheating remains. -The existing measures date from Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> -There is his bushel—a great bronze basin, bearing -his name, with an emblematic Lancastrian rose. At -the one extremity of a yard measure I found the -letter H, at the other E, which I attributed to Henry -and Elizabeth of York, who were certainly at opposite -ends of the stick, but I was informed that E -stood for the Tudor Elizabeth.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Archives.</div> - -<p>In glass frames are displayed some of the archives -of the city. Here is a photo of Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s charter -“<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">civibus meis Wint.</span>,” 1160; it has been said that there -was an earlier one. The terms are general, and the -contractions numerous and puzzling to the uninitiated—the -whole being comprised in a piece of -vellum not six inches square. The writing, which -was clear in those days, contrasts here with some -spidery cacography of later age.</p> - -<p>This charter raised the Mayor of Winchester above -all other civic officials in England. But at Richard -<abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s coronation a dispute arose between the mayors of -London and Winchester as to which should be Butler, -and which Clerk of the Kitchen—the former being -the higher office. The decision was in favour of -London, but in compensation the King gave Winchester -a very liberal charter.</p> - -<p>In a list of ancient usages of Winchester, which -existed earlier than the thirteenth century, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> -this document recording them was written, we find -ordinances about various trades—the “<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">bakere</span>” and -the “<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">brewstere of myste</span>” are specially mentioned.</p> - -<p lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">“Also everych bakere of ye town that maketh -bred to sale shal to the kynge of custome <abbr title="11 shillings">11s.</abbr> the -year and to the clerk of the town a peny.” It goes -on to say that he is to make good white bread, and -if the weight is deficient, is to be at the King’s mercy.</p> - -<p lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">“And also everych cart out of fraunchyse comyng -in to town with samown, shal to the kynge of custome -thre pens.</p> - -<p lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">“Also everych cart out of the fraunchyse shal -to the kynge by custome 11 pens and an hafpeny -what ffyshe he here to sale. And everych horse -berdene of fresh fysh that cometh in to the town -to sale and be out of franchyse shal to the kynge -thre hafpens of custome and of shalt fysh a hafpeny.”</p> - -<p>The monopolies granted in Winchester to trades -unions were considerable. In 1580 no cobbler was -allowed to make “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">shoes, boots, buskins, skertoppes, -slippers or pantaples</span>;” he was not only to stick to his -last, but to confine himself to repairs. Any infringement -of this rule involved a penalty of <abbr title="6 shillings 8 pence">6s. 8d.</abbr> a pair. -Each trade was to carry on its own business—no -intruders allowed. In 1673 a man paid money to be -permitted to live in the city, and in 1728 a barber had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> -to pay to be allowed to carry on his business. In -1656 it was resolved that the election of the mayor -and aldermen should be by “bullets.” This sounds -alarming; but the order is that one hundred red and -white bullets, in equal proportions, shall be provided, -and that the electors shall put them in privately.</p> - -<p>A copy of the letter Cromwell sent to the Mayor -summoning the town to surrender is preserved here. -It runs thus:</p> - -<div class="quote" lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng"> -<p>“Sir,—I come not to this city but with a full -resolution to save it and the inhabitants thereof from -ruine. I have commanded the Souldyers upon payne -of death that noe wrong bee done; wch I shall strictly -observe, only I expect you give me entrance into the -City, without necessitating mee to force my way, -which yf doe then it will be in my power to save -you or it. I expect yor answeare with in halfe an -houre, and rest, your servant,</p> - -<p class="smcap signed letter">“Oliver Cromwell.”</p> -</div> - -<p>It will be observed that by some oversight or -waggish design the word “not” has been omitted -before “in my power.”</p> - -<p>A modern, but not uninteresting object here is a -large model of the Cathedral, carved in wood with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> -jack-knife, by a shepherd’s boy, while tending sheep -on the Hampshire Downs. It was presented to Dean -Garnier in his 92nd year.</p> - -<p>We were much pleased with the young lady in -charge of this collection, who does her best to answer -all the difficult questions put to her. She told us -that her father was an antiquary, and half ruined -himself in publishing archæological works, but that -she was not sorry for it. How refreshing to hear -such disinterested sentiments in these grasping days! -Her grandfather was a brewer, and she was glad she -had none of the money he made in such an objectionable -trade.</p> - -<p>Just below the Guildhall, on the east, stands a -modern brick building, with two towers, named the -Abbey House—recalling memories of the celebrated -nunnery which stood here. It was founded by -Alfred’s queen, Ælwitha, who resided here as a -widow. Edburga, his granddaughter, also lived here -and carried her humility so far as to wash the nuns -clothes secretly, much to the increase of their faith. -The church of the Abbey had a lofty tower.</p> - -<div class="sidenote"><abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s Hospital.</div> - -<p>A little lower down we find two buildings facing -each other on either side of the street. The southernmost -and more picturesque of the two is the more -modern, and only dates from 1833, previous to which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> -a draper’s shop occupied the site. Both belong to -one foundation—due, it is said, to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Birinus—<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -John’s Hospital. The northern establishment (on -the left) has a little old chapel, built in the days of -Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> As you enter by the gate you see in the -east end of the chapel wall, very high up, an ancient -carving of a head surrounded by a rim; but whether -meant for a nimbus or a charger, and whether representing -Our Lord or <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John, I leave for others to -decide.</p> - -<p>We find in the Black Book that there were, during -Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>’s reign, the following sculptures in alabaster -in the hospital:—A head of John the Baptist, -two images of the same saint and two of Our Lady. -Milner writes: “In the dusthole near the apartments -of the widows, amongst other curious antiques, -is seen the figure of John the Baptist’s head in a dish, -being the bust of the holy patron of the house, which -formerly stood over the principal doorway.”</p> - -<p>The court of the hospital is laid out in beautiful -swards and beds of flowers and the houses seem to be -pleasant residences. Before 1852 the land belonged -to the Mildmay family, and then the hospital had -only six poor cottages. Some arches are visible and -stairs going down into a kind of kitchen from which -an arch, still visible, communicated with another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> -kitchen or refectory. If we pass through the chapel -by the west door we find two Decorated windows -(Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>), and enter the building containing this -old chamber with a low arch and two large hearths. -The hall is over the refectory and is a room of magnificent -proportions, having its walls beautifully -stuccoed with festoons of flowers. This would appear -to date from the time of Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, whose picture, -now in the Guildhall, was formerly here.</p> - -<p><abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s became the property of the Knights -Templar, and on their suppression John Devenish -refounded it for lame soldiers, poor pilgrims, and -necessitous wayfarers. He had a charitable feeling -towards the footsore. After Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s confiscation -it was used for meetings of the Corporation. -We learn from the Black Book that in the 38th -Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr> the supper was to be kept at <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -John’s as amply as heretofore. On the Sunday next -following the Nativity of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John the Baptist, the -Mayor was to find a capon and so was the alderman -of the High Street. In order to keep the “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">banket</span>” -up to the mark each of the benchers was to pay <abbr title="12 pence">12d.</abbr>, -and each of the “Twenty four” <abbr title="8 pence">8d.</abbr>, whether they were -present or not.</p> - -<p>This establishment had been confiscated by Henry -<abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, and the buildings made over to the Corporation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> -for the formation of a new hall. Various references -seem to show that this chamber was now being slowly -completed. In 21st year of Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr> John Brown -was to have a certain tenement in the hold of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -John’s upon condition of his giving twenty shillings -towards building a new chimney there; and in 1560 the -Mayor of Winchester who had been guilty of riding -to Southampton without a servant,<a name="Anchor_41" id="Anchor_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 41.">[41]</a> and of committing -other enormities, was ordered to glaze the west -window of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s Hall. This was not the present -hall, for it has no window looking west, and the -chimney was differently placed. To mend windows -seems to have been here a common and useful civic -punishment.</p> - -<p>I may here observe that the clerk who entered the -civic transactions in the Black Book added a new -saint to the calendar for he generally calls this hospital -that of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Jones.</p> - -<p>The High Street here becomes very broad, apparently -to accommodate a Russian gun, but really<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> -because the Bridewell and a “dye house” stood here -till the beginning of this century, when it was -removed to Hyde Street. Even the ponderous cannon -has not had a quiet time since it came here, but has -been on its travels. It was first placed where it now -stands, but a few years ago the Corporation conceived -the idea of moving it to a more commanding position -on the summit of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ hill. They accordingly -carried it up, but immediately afterwards a tumultous -assembly, aided, it is said, by some officers, and not -dissimilar from that which saved the Butter Cross, -dragged the gun down again by might and placed it -on the site it now occupies.<a name="Anchor_42" id="Anchor_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 42.">[42]</a></p> - -<p>Close to the bridge on the left-hand side where -are Mr. Dance’s house and grounds, stood anciently -the Dominican friary, founded by De la Roche, with -its “Elysian garden.” Just here was also the -Eastgate, a high castellated building, which must<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> -have formed a handsome entrance to the town in -this direction. It was removed at the end of the last -century.</p> - -<p>Beneath Bridge Street are the remains of a -many-arched bridge said to have been built by <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Soke Bridge.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_soke" id="image_soke"><img src="images/soke.jpg" alt="Soke Bridge" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Soke Bridge. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Passing over Soke Bridge, and proceeding straight -on, we came, in a few hundred yards, to a public-house<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> -built of wood and apparently sinking under the weight -of years, but which bore the name of “The Rising -Sun.” Through the open door I saw beams and -passages of ancient irregularity, and as the landlady, -a bright looking woman, was standing just inside I -asked her whether she knew anything of the history -of the house which bore such proofs of antiquity.</p> - -<p>“You <i>would</i> say it was old,” she replied, “if you -saw the vaults there are downstairs.”</p> - -<p>I answered that we were strangers, and should like -to see them. She speedily lighted a candle and led -the way down into a chamber about twenty feet -square and eight high. A wide flight of broken stairs -led up to the street, while on the other side of the -vault was an arch with a square window on either -side leading to a chamber beyond. There had -evidently been stone mullions and iron bars—the -irons of the door hinges remain.</p> - -<p>This was the prison of the Soke belonging to the -Bishop of Winchester, and in ancient times the stocks -stood just outside. I expressed the interest I took in -these remains of the past.</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir,” replied our guide, who was not quite -so visionary, “and it is a nice place for keeping beer -barrels—it is so cool.”</p> - -<p>This part of the town was called the Soke, not, as I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> -at first supposed, because of its low position near -the river, but from the Saxon <i lang="ang" xml:lang="ang">soc</i> or liberty, which -instead of signifying that the people here were -unusually free, meant that the Bishop of Winchester -had license to do whatever he liked to them. -Nearly opposite this establishment are some new -houses, and when their foundations were being laid, -a Roman urn was found, sixteen feet beneath the -ground.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Panoramic View.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_towers" id="image_towers"><img src="images/towers.jpg" alt="Towers and Spires of Winchester" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Towers and Spires of Winchester. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Continuing our walk we made our -way up the hill, now terraced and -tastefully planted. Less than ten -years ago it was covered with little garden allotments -belonging to the citizens. On reaching the upper -ground—a sort of down—a magnificent view opened -over the whole of Winchester. We walked over to the -south-east corner, and took up our position on a seat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> -close to the iron fence. From there we could take a -general survey. In a hollow about two miles to the -east we saw the trees about Chilcombe; on the summit -of the down due east was a clump of trees on <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Catherine’s hill; a square tower more to the north on -the lower ground was that of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross; from this -approaching Winchester, first comes the college, then -the old walls of Wolvesey, then the Cathedral, the -best and most compact view of it. Nearly over the -College on the top of the hill is the clump of firs on -the site of Cromwell’s battery, looking lower than our -position, but really being higher, and over the -Cathedral is the long red brick front of Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s -palace. Truly, we have here Winchester in a nutshell.</p> - -<p>In a description of the prospect from this point, -written a hundred and fifty years since, mention is -made of the beautiful gardens, and in prints dated -1723 and 1736 we find that two-thirds of the space -within the walls of Winchester were laid out for -horticulture and adorned with large trees.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Fair.</div> - -<p>Passing over to the northern side of the down we -came to a burial ground. The grave-digger told us -that in the southern and older part of it, he was often -obstructed by the foundations of the old chapel—that -dedicated to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles,<a name="Anchor_43" id="Anchor_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 43.">[43]</a> a hermit saint whose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> -shrine is always outside mediæval cities. Hard by, -an old farm-house still exists called Palm Hall, a -corruption of Pavilionis Aula—the tent used by the -judges at the famous fair which was held here annually -at the end of August. This fair extended round this -point and southwards even down the slope and was -the greatest but one in England. We find, in the -<cite class="plain">Close Rolls</cite>, King John giving directions that wax, -pepper, and cinnamon, should be here bought for him; -and Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> (15) commands the sheriffs of Gloucestershire -and Worcestershire to allow wares to be -brought to this fair, and at another time orders that -the barons (freemen?) should proceed to Winton with -their merchandise, and not fear the hostility of the -Earl of Salisbury.<a name="Anchor_44" id="Anchor_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 44.">[44]</a> Guards were placed as well as -toll collectors upon the roads for seven leagues round, -within which circuit and at Southampton no business -was allowed. The right of holding the fair was -granted by Rufus to Bishop Walkelin for three -days in the year to assist him in building the -Cathedral, and the time was gradually extended, -till in Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s reign it lasted sixteen days. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> -Bishop had the jurisdiction, and the tolls went to -the priory of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun, Hyde Abbey, and other -places.</p> - -<p>Now let us enter the fair. There is a palisading -all round it and only two gates. It looks something -between an industrial exhibition and a cattle show. -Each kind of ware has a separate locality. Here is -the “Draperie” and the “Pottery”—there is the -“Spicery.” Here is the street of the “Flemings,” -“Limoges,” and “Genoese,” and other nations. Even -the Bishop has a stall. There are birds, apes, -ferrets, and bears. Here are the dynamiters—dreadful -name—very harmless people, vendors of brass -pots. Moving among all these we picture to ourselves -a number of foreign merchants in rich costumes, -Jews in strange hats, the Bishop’s officials in gay -liveries, and a crowd of hard-featured, bare-footed -peasants.</p> - -<p>At sunset the Marshal rides through the fair and -orders all stalls to be closed. No one is to have any -fire at night except a lamp or mortar. The justiciaries -seem to have had some good privileges. They -might enter at what day or hour they pleased into -the city, and taste one by one all the casks of wine -for sale there. They might also send their servants -to take loaves from all the bakers and bring them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> -to the pavilion. There they were weighed, and if -short, woe betide the baker! his bread was forfeited, -and he himself fined or put in the pillory. The tolls -seemed heavy on fancy articles. A load of hay or -corn was only <abbr title="a halfpenny">½d.</abbr>, and a cask of wine or a cart-load -of fish or leather <abbr title="4 pence">4d.</abbr>, but an ape or falcon or -bear was also <abbr title="4 pence">4d.</abbr></p> - -<p>The fair continued down till about twenty years -since. The neighbouring Magdalen or “Morn” fair -lasted four years longer. Dean Kitchin writes: “As -the city grew stronger and the fair weaker, it slid -down <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ hill and entered the town where its -noisy ghost still holds revel once a year.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Execution.</div> - -<p>On the brow of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ hill, Waltheof, Earl of -Northumberland, was beheaded by order of the -Conqueror. He had conspired with some other -Saxons against the Norman invaders, and was -betrayed by his wife—a niece of William’s.</p> - -<p>At dawn he was conducted through the city from -the Castle, “arrayed in all the badges of his earl’s -rank.” After distributing memorial gifts to a few of -his friends who accompanied him, he was engaged in -prayer so long that the executioners became tired and -told him to hasten. He then begged to be allowed -to say the Lord’s prayer, but, being overcome and -halting in the middle of it, the headsman would wait<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> -no longer and the axe fell. It was said that after his -head was off it finished the sentence, “Deliver us from -evil.” This probably was thought by those who were -surprised to see the lips move, as they often do, after -decapitation.<a name="Anchor_45" id="Anchor_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 45.">[45]</a></p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33"></a><a href="#Anchor_33">[33]</a></td> - <td>This was the first place where the curfew was established.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34"></a><a href="#Anchor_34">[34]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Additional Manuscripts">Add. MSS.</abbr></cite> 6,768, British Museum.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35"></a><a href="#Anchor_35">[35]</a></td> - <td>Of the eleven streets mentioned in the Winton Domesday -book, only two—“<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">Mensterstret</span>” and “<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">Colobrockstret</span>” retain -their names.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_36" id="Footnote_36"></a><a href="#Anchor_36">[36]</a></td> - <td>Archbishop Trench. The name may have been more or -less in use before.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_37" id="Footnote_37"></a><a href="#Anchor_37">[37]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Harleian Manuscripts">Harl. MSS.</abbr></cite> 66.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_38" id="Footnote_38"></a><a href="#Anchor_38">[38]</a></td> - <td>Though one destroyed in Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s reign seems to have -been near the Westgate. One existed in Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s reign.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_39" id="Footnote_39"></a><a href="#Anchor_39">[39]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Patent">Pat.</abbr> Rolls</cite>, 5 Henry <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr>, p. 2.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_40" id="Footnote_40"></a><a href="#Anchor_40">[40]</a></td> - <td>The Corporation of Winchester used to send this accommodating -Marquess presents of sack and sugar-loaves.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_41" id="Footnote_41"></a><a href="#Anchor_41">[41]</a></td> - <td>There was great anxiety that the Mayor should keep up -his dignity. He was not to be seen without his gown unless he -was going into the country, and his wife was to wear a scarlet -gown. In 1584 it was decreed that “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">no citizen that hath been -bayliff of the city shall wear in the street hose or stockings of -white, green, yellow, redde, blewe, weggett or oringe color</span>.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_42" id="Footnote_42"></a><a href="#Anchor_42">[42]</a></td> - <td>Among the <cite class="plain">Tanner <abbr title="Manuscripts">MSS.</abbr></cite> 76 in the Bodleian there is a -curious account (about 1600) of the devil appearing to four -women who were in Winchester gaol. He came to the windows -like a fire and shook the gratings, and on another occasion was -like “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">a great black thing with great eyes</span>.” The women -screamed, and the keeper ran in but saw nothing. He observed -however, that one of the candles he held in his hands blew out, -and the other burnt blue, and that the devil had left an “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">unsavoury</span>” -odour in the room.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_43" id="Footnote_43"></a><a href="#Anchor_43">[43]</a></td> - <td>This chapel was burnt down in 1231. Perhaps both it and -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Catherine’s were originally of wood. A curious old dagger -and spear head were found where the new house on the hill -was built.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_44" id="Footnote_44"></a><a href="#Anchor_44">[44]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Patent">Pat.</abbr> Rolls</cite>, 4 Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_45" id="Footnote_45"></a><a href="#Anchor_45">[45]</a></td> - <td>A horrible execution took place in Winchester in 1259. -Walter de Scoteneye was torn to pieces by horses for the -murder of W. de Clare.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> - -<h2>THIRD DAY.</h2> - -<p class="summary">The City -Walls — Danemead — Eastgate — Northgate — Westgate — Southgate — Kingsgate — The -College — Wykeham — Wolvesey — Raleigh. -</p> - -<p>From the Roman occupation, and perhaps from an -earlier date, Winchester has been a fortified town. -Long after that time, people were slow in laying to -heart the saying in Plutarch that a city which contains -men who can fight has no need of walls.</p> - -<p>The modern defences seem to have been chiefly -raised in the time of John and Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>,<a name="Anchor_46" id="Anchor_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 46.">[46]</a> just before -Winchester ceased to be the royal city of England. -In the first year of John an inexpensive way was -discovered of obtaining land to make the fosse. -Andrew Clerk, of Winchester, gladly gave ground -for the purpose, on condition that he should have -confiscated lands “which had belonged to Aaron the -Jew, in Shortenestret, and a messuage near it in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> -which Bona the Jewess lived.”<a name="Anchor_47" id="Anchor_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 47.">[47]</a> In the patents -during Henry’s reign “<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">murage</span>,” that is, money for -wall-building, is often mentioned.<a name="Anchor_48" id="Anchor_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 48.">[48]</a></p> - -<p>We now pass down the High Street in the same -direction that we took yesterday, and, after reaching -the site of the Eastgate, cross the bridge, as we cannot -walk close to the river on the western side. We pass -down Water Lane, where a Roman urn was discovered -a short time since; and, crossing the river by -the mill, come to Durngate Terrace, marking the site -of a postern in the walls. This gate was made for -foot passengers in 1259. It was ordered to be -entirely closed during the plague in 1603, whence we -conclude this was a squalid part of the town.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Danemead.</div> - -<p>Thence as we proceeded up the City Road we found -the modern walls largely studded with pieces of old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> -cut stone. The foundations of the city walls ran -close to the houses on our right, and a gentleman we -met told us that during some excavations he had seen -a part of them uncovered six feet in thickness. On -the left we soon came to Trinity Church, a handsome -new structure, and on the right, beside Newman’s the -grocer’s, there is a gate leading to some sheds in the -famous meadow called Danemead. Farther on we -found a turning on the right, and walking up it a few -yards came to the Steam Laundry, which stands on -the western edge of this field. Sceptics maintain -that Dane is a corruption of Dene, and signifies low-lying -ground, but we cannot afford to give up the old -story. Tradition says that here Athelstan sat on the -city wall to see the combat between Guy, Earl of -Warwick, and the gigantic Dane, Colbrand: Rudborne -luxuriates in the conflict, and records all the -mighty cuts and blows and their results with as much -detail as if he were a Homer or a reporter at a -modern prize fight.</p> - -<p>But there seems about the whole affair much -hollowness and “sounding brass.” Guy cuts off Colbrand’s -head, and the Danes, seeing their champion -dead, run away, and are pursued. We wonder -whether Rudborne had been reading about David -and Goliath. He was a monk of Winchester in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> -fifteenth century, and as he says that Colbrand’s -axe was laid up before the high altar, and could -in his day be seen in the vestry of the Cathedral, so -we may assume there was here some celebrated Dane -of the name of Colbrand.</p> - -<p>Further up the City Road the deep fosse before the -walls can be traced in the slope of “Hyde Abbey -Bowling Green,” and in the garden of a ladies school -called Fossedyke House. In the centre of the cross -roads here formed by Jewry Street, Hyde Street, and -the City Road, stood the Northgate. This structure -was at length considered, as Temple Bar has been in -our times, to be a hindrance to traffic. Some people -went so far as to say that their lives had been -endangered by carriages when crossing its narrow -bridge. Purchasers of hay and straw said that the -arches of the North and South gates were so low that -they could not obtain a full load for their money. -Antiquaries have never been able to offer much -resistance to commercial interests, and so in 1771 -an order was made for the removal of the time-honoured -obstacles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Towers of the Wall.</div> - -<p>The foundations of the walls now cross the road -and run on our left, a fragment of them behind -Westbury Villa can still be seen from the street; and -if we look upwards we shall observe among the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> -branches of the trees a round tower, which a patriotic -citizen, Mr. Budden, has built to mark the foundations -of one of the towers of the wall.<a name="Anchor_49" id="Anchor_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 49.">[49]</a> We now -pass down Sussex Street, and turning to the left -and then right, enter Tower Street. At the end of -the last century the picturesque ruins of the wall, -among shrubs and ash trees, ran here on the right to -the Westgate. Passing through the gate, already -described, we make for the barracks, where the Castle -formed part of the city wall; and, crossing the railway, -walk in front of the pretty gardens and houses of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -James’ Terrace, and just before recrossing the line see -the entrance to the new cemetery on our right.</p> - -<p>Then we proceed down <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> James’ Lane (called -sometimes Barnes Lane), at the end of which in -Southgate Street, just beyond <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Thomas’ Church, -stood, till 1771, the Southgate with its bridge. The -city wall then ran down between <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun Street -and Canon Street. Some portions of it three feet -thick can still be seen about four yards behind the -cottages, half way down the northern side of the -latter street. There was formerly a postern for the -friary somewhere here.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_kingsgate" id="image_kingsgate"><img src="images/kingsgate.jpg" alt="King’s Gate" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - King’s Gate. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The Kingsgate is an interesting relic. There is a -little chapel (to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun) over it, as there was over -the Northgate and Eastgate. In the porter’s lodge, -at the entrance to the close, the city wall can be seen -over six feet thick.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Excommunication.</div> - -<p>The Kingsgate was the scene of some remarkable -events in the middle of the thirteenth century. -Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> wished to appoint the uncle of the Queen -to the bishopric of Winchester, but the monks<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> -sturdily refused. For five years the conflict lasted—the -chapter suffered stripes, imprisonment, and -starvation while insisting that William de Raley and -no other should be the bishop. But when this prelate -came to Winchester at Christmas he found the city -gates closed against him. He made a circuit of the -walls barefoot, and at last stopped at Kingsgate, the -nearest point to the Cathedral, and there “preaching” -pronounced a general interdict and excommunication -upon all the Cathedral and Church authorities, the -Mayor, bailiffs, and clerks, and others, who opposed -his entrance. He then withdrew to France, but was -soon afterwards received to his diocese in peace. -Fifteen years after this occurrence there was a rebellion -in Winchester against the clerical and other -governing bodies, and in the tumult the Kingsgate -was partly burnt, and some of the servants of the -monastery were murdered.</p> - -<p>At this time the chapel over the gate was destroyed, -but the whole was soon afterwards restored. The -chapel in which service is now performed was rebuilt -at a later date.</p> - -<p>Beside the gate of the precincts a “Druidical” -monolith can be seen placed upright in the ground. -Passing back through the Kingsgate we can see the -line of the wall continuing along the little garden of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> -the head-master, and here is a pretty bit for the -artist.<a name="Anchor_50" id="Anchor_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 50.">[50]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_lodge" id="image_lodge"><img src="images/lodge.jpg" alt="The Porter’s Lodge and Cheyney Court" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - THE PORTER’S LODGE AND CHEYNEY COURT. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Nearly opposite we saw a number of college boys -streaming into a small confectioner’s shop. Inside -sat a young lady in a cage. I had always felt that -the fair possessed potent charms, but I never before -knew of one who was obliged to be protected in this -way. We soon learned, however, that the wire was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> -put up for the preservation of other sweets, and -because some of the boys had been studying Dr. -Smiles’ work on “Self-help.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sustern Spytal.</div> - -<p>On the same side we came to one of the College -houses, with an iron railing in front of it; this -was the site of the ancient nunnery,<a name="Anchor_51" id="Anchor_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 51.">[51]</a> the Sustern -Spytal. Here were afterwards the “Commoners,” or -boys not on the foundation, and now are class-rooms. -It has been said that there was no fosse along this -part of the city wall; but in the French map of -1650, one is marked as existing. The question is -doubtful.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Wykeham.</div> - -<p>And now we arrive at the famous College, and, -as in duty bound, pay a passing tribute to its -founder. Wykeham was of yeoman birth, of comely -person, and had a strain of noble blood in him, from -his mother’s family. He was educated at a little old -school on <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ slope, which boasted that it -had numbered among its pupils Athelwolf and -Alfred the Great. No doubt, he attended to his -lessons, for we find him while still a youth, -appointed to be secretary to the Governor of the -Castle. This was the happy accident in Wykeham’s -life; without it, though he had a genius for architecture<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> -and geometry, and was a rare draughtsman, -he might have remained in obscurity. The governor, -De Scures, knew Bishop Edington—himself -a builder—and both knew the King. They introduced -Wykeham to him, and from that moment, -at twenty-three years of age, his career was assured.</p> - -<p>“He was one of those men,” observed Mr. Hertford, -“whom fortune carries to the top of the ladder -without asking them to walk up the rounds.”</p> - -<p>“So it appears,” I continued. “He took, as many -of his day, the priest’s office that he might eat -a piece of bread, and soon had it richly buttered. -Not only did he become ‘a pretty considerable -pluralist’ and a bishop, he was also made Surveyor -of the King’s castles and palaces, Keeper of the -Privy Seal, Secretary to the King, and Chancellor. -In short, he was the leading spirit in the country, -and ‘everything was done by him, and without -him nothing.’”</p> - -<p>“But I have read somewhere that he had a fall,” -said Mr. Hertford,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> “and was obliged to appeal to -Alice Perrers. Imagine the grave bishop in his -long robes, bowing down to Edward’s impudent little -favourite! Perhaps his words were golden on this -occasion, for she said she would go and see whether -a spark of love for her remained in the old king. -And the spark did remain, and its light was sufficient -to guide Wykeham back to his temporalities.”</p> - -<p>“Well,” I replied, “that story has been questioned, -but, at any rate, he only wanted his own, and -that for a good purpose. His pet college was in -danger of suffering, and though the building was -not commenced he had appointed a warden and -scholars. When the college was finished, he began -the transformation of the Cathedral and had done -good work upon it before he closed his eyes. He -left 2,500 marks to carry it on. Until the last few -years of his life he planned everything himself, and -employed no architect. He is considered to be the -father of the Perpendicular style, and was national -as opposed to Papal in his architecture and his -politics. Altogether he laid out upon building -what would now be equal to half a million. For -such brilliant success, learning and integrity were -indispensably requisite, and he summed up his -estimate of them in his famous motto ‘<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">Manners -makyth man</span>.’”</p> - -<p>Beneath the great and good deeds of Wykeham, -we may here mention a little kindly act, not less -indicative of a noble character. When he had -purchased Dummers Mead from <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s -Monastery for the site of his College, a tailor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> -claimed a part of it and took legal proceedings. -The man failed to establish his right, and was condemned -to pay the heavy costs, which would have -ruined him. Wykeham generously defrayed them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Relics of Wykeham.</div> - -<p>There are preserved in a curious vaulted strongroom -over the College sacristy, among other manuscripts, -a modest pedigree, tracing Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr>’s -descent from Adam, a Life of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Thomas à -Becket deposited here by Wykeham,<a name="Anchor_52" id="Anchor_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 52.">[52]</a> and a roll -of the household expenses of the founder in 1394.<a name="Anchor_53" id="Anchor_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 53.">[53]</a> -But if we wish to see his most interesting relics -we must go to New College, Oxford. Judging -from what remains there, we might almost conclude -that Wykeham was a giant in stature as well as -in mind.<a name="Anchor_54" id="Anchor_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 54.">[54]</a> There we find a pair of large crimson -silk gloves, with I. H. S. amid golden rays, worked -on their backs. His ring is about an inch wide, -of great solidity, with the crucifixion embossed on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> -the gold at each side. The stone, about the size -of a sovereign, is in the shape of a heart and -colourless, probably rock crystal. This was doubtless -a thumb ring, but it is large even for that. -His mitre case is an extraordinary structure, made -of thick stamped leather, girded with iron bands -and locked at the top. It is a foot wide and -nearly two feet high, in shape resembling a beehive. -From the strength of the case we should -expect valuable contents. But no; the fragments -of the mitre show it to have been little superior -to a stage “property.” Its rods adorned with trefoil -leaves are of silver gilt, but the “jewels” are plentiful -and spurious. The tissue bearing the I. H. S. was -worked with seed pearls. The purfling which went -round the brow of the mitre was of brass, with -sham gems, alternated with small squares of silver -brightly enamelled with figures of men, animals, and -flowers.</p> - -<p>The most costly of these “jocalia” is the central -piece of a morse or clasp for the cope. It is about -two inches wide, and is called a Mary crowned, -being in the form of an old-fashioned M, like a -horseshoe.<a name="Anchor_55" id="Anchor_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 55.">[55]</a> It is surrounded with pearls, emeralds,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> -and garnets. In the centre stand two little figures -in gold, Mary and an angel, and between them is -a vase of garnet, from which springs a lily with -emerald leaves and flowers of pearls.</p> - -<p>Behind a glass in New College Chapel is -Wykeham’s crozier; a magnificent work of silver -adorned with pinnacles and other ornaments, and -especially rich in scriptural figures in enamel.</p> - -<p>At Oxford is, also, the only letter extant, written -by Wykeham—purchased at Sir Edward Dering’s -sale. It is in the clerkly hand, adopted by penmen -of the time, and the lines, now much faded, are -a foot long, but so few that the whole writing is -scarcely an inch wide. The letter, thus short and -long, was written from Shene,<a name="Anchor_56" id="Anchor_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 56.">[56]</a> to Lord Cobham, -in 1367, when he was on an embassy to the Pope, -of whose whereabouts Wykeham seems doubtful. -It is in French, and signed</p> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_ww" id="image_ww"><img src="images/ww.jpg" alt="William de Wykeham" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - William de Wykeham - </p> -</div> - -<p>Among these curiosities is the ivory horn of a -fish called a narwhal, which seems out of place<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> -in the collection, unless it be considered emblematic -of the vocation of the first preachers of Christianity. -It probably belonged to Wykeham, and is -sixty-five inches long, the pointed end—supposed -to be an antidote for poison—having been cut off. -When Lord Leicester was Chancellor of Oxford in -1569, he asked the College to give him this horn. -They made a compromise, and by sending him this -prized extremity were allowed to keep the rest.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The College.</div> - -<p>We enter the first court, and look with veneration -at the kneeling figure of Wykeham. Here was -impressed by a master-mind the prototype of our -public schools. The prelate chose the site outside -the walls of Winchester, in the Soke, which extended -round the south-east of the city, so that -the College might be entirely in the Bishop of -Winchester’s jurisdiction. As early as 1373, he -engaged a schoolmaster at Winchester, and three -years later had a warden and seventy scholars.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_chamber" id="image_chamber"><img src="images/chamber.jpg" alt="Chamber Court" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Chamber Court. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The buildings we see, with the exception of -the Chantry Chapel and schoolroom and tower, are -those erected by Wykeham. In March, 1393, the -warden, fellows, and scholars, took possession of -their new magnificent abode, marching in a triumphal -procession, headed by a cross-bearer, and chanting -songs of praise. Nevertheless, the accommodation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> -would not have seemed liberal in our days. -Three fellows had only one room; the seventy -scholars had six chambers, and those below fourteen -years slept two in a bed. These were in the -inner quadrangle. The outer quadrangle must then -have formed a somewhat unpoetical entrance to the -abode of the muses, although the warden and head-master -lived in it. In the front of it, built partly for -defence, were the brewery, bakehouse, and malt-rooms; -on the west side, the stables; and on the -east, the slaughter-houses.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cloisters.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_cloisters" id="image_cloisters"><img src="images/cloisters.jpg" alt="The Cloisters" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Cloisters. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The Cloisters were built by Wykeham’s steward; -and I should like to have walked their “studious pale” -at my leisure, and to have spent some time in musing -over the past. These arches, this pavement, and this -clean roof of chestnut or Irish oak, have been present -to the mind and eye of many a learned man as he here -mused upon the great master works of the Greeks and -Romans. And after his ambition had been kindled, -and his breast inspired for a brief period, he had laid -him down to rest, and left nothing to inform us that -he ever lived, except a tablet on these silent walls. -I can conjure up the pensive figure of Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>, -who was often here, and attended the chapel services. -He presented the College with a chalice, cruets, and -tabernacle, all of gold, and gave the little boys some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> -pocket-money, which, no doubt, was more valued by -them.<a name="Anchor_57" id="Anchor_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 57.">[57]</a></p> - -<p>Here are brasses to some of the fellows who died -in the sixteenth century. We see that John Watts -(Watto), reached the patriarchal age of a hundred -years. Some are commemorated in Latin verses—the -solemnity of death could not prevent a poetaster from -punning on the name of Lark, and one John Clerk, -who on earth “distilled rosy liquors,” is now “rejoicing -in living waters.” But we are also reminded -of younger and gayer scenes, of spirits full of hope -looking forward joyously to years of expected happiness. -The walls are scored with the names of these -aspirants, most of them afterwards unknown—for -studious boys rarely mark themselves upon wood and -stone—but we see here “Thos. Ken, 1646,” the celebrated -bishop, whose glorious hymns, “Awake, my -soul,” and “Glory to Thee, my God, this night,” first -appeared in a Manual of Prayers he composed for -Winchester College.</p> - -<p>Alas! as I look through these arches to the grassy -enclosure, I see some small tombstones to the memory -of boys not destined even to feel the disappointments<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> -of life. The rosebud has fallen upon the sod! The -thought is too melancholy, let us change to something -cheerful—and look at those young girls on the sward, -sketching the little old chapel which stands in the -centre with all its pristine beauty. It dates from -1430. There is a fine stained east window in it which -has old figures in the lower part. Over the chapel—intended -for private masses—is an apartment, now -used for a library. The whole is a little <i>bijou</i>.</p> - -<p>The large schoolroom, built by Warden Nicholas -in 1687, is now used merely for concerts and other -entertainments. But the great grim signboard still -remains, warning the festive company that they must -learn, leave, or be whipped! This unpleasant notification -is impressed by a representation of a sword, -and something which looks alarmingly like a pitchfork, -but is really meant for a rod. In these days of -competitive examinations, it seems strange to be told -that the army is to be the last refuge for dunces. -This work of art is older than the building; its -scholastic designer remains among the great unknown. -Prominent here among other names, is that of Herbert -Stewart, painted with ink in letters of heroic size.<a name="Anchor_58" id="Anchor_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 58.">[58]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p> -<p>The height of the Hall gives it a magnificent -appearance, while the old oak in the panelling, -benches, tables, and roof, make it sombre and venerable. -Some old pieces of wood, about six inches -square, were shown us, which are still used by the -foundation boys for plates at breakfast and supper. In -early times the hall was warmed by a fire in the centre.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Portraits.</div> - -<p>Over the high table there is a full-length portrait of -William of Wykeham. It is on oak, but scarcely looks -as old as the days of Holbein. All we can hope is -that there was some likeness of Wykeham of which -it is a copy. There is also here a picture of Bishop -Morley with rosy cheeks, pointed beard, and a somewhat -cynical expression. He was in exile with -Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, and returned with him, and, to judge by -the carmine here freely used, had shared in his -master’s good living. Beneath this, by way of contrast, -I suppose, hangs the lantern face of Bishop -Fox—dark, close-shaven, ascetic—not altogether unlike -his patron Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr> He was the man who -collected the bones out of the crypt, and placed them -in the chests.</p> - -<p>On the wall of the passage to the kitchen there is -the picture of the “Trusty Servant,” almost as well -known as the College itself. The Latin verse dates -from 1560; the figure, from Queen Anne.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p> - -<p>“I remember that at first sight I thought it was -intended for the devil,” said Mr. Hertford, “and I am -not sure that the designer was not a plagiarist in this -respect. I have seen valentines like it.”</p> - -<p>“But when we read the lines,” I replied, “we find -the intention is to represent virtues, not vices. The -cloven feet are to signify celerity, not bestiality; the -‘porker’s snout’ contentment, not greediness; and the -donkey’s head patience, not stupidity; the formidable -weapons and bundle of implements he carries are for -defensive and industrial purposes. This combination -of man and beast has a moral as well as a comic side, -and has much taken the public fancy.”</p> - -<p>When we were opposite this picture, the porter -recited with some dramatic power the description of -this model domestic:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“A trusty servant’s portrait would you see,</div> - <div class="p_line">The emblematic figure well survey:</div> - <div class="p_line">The porker’s snout—not nice in diet shows;</div> - <div class="p_line">The padlock shut—no secrets he’ll disclose;</div> - <div class="p_line">Patient the ass, his master’s wrath to bear,</div> - <div class="p_line">Swiftness in errand—the stag’s feet declare;</div> - <div class="p_line">Loaded his left hand, apt to labour with,</div> - <div class="p_line">The vest his neatness; open hand his faith;</div> - <div class="p_line">Girt with his sword—his shield upon his arm,</div> - <div class="p_line">Himself and master he’ll protect from harm.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">We pitied the man who rehearsed these hackneyed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> -lines to every visitor, but hoped that to his ear they -had a musical, or perhaps, as Shakespeare says, a -silver sound.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Brasses.</div> - -<p>In the College Chapel we have the original roof, -and the brasses are exact reproductions of those -formerly existing here; which, though carefully -stored, were stolen when the pavement was undergoing -repair some twenty years ago. Fortunately a -boy with the suitable name of Freshfield had kept -rubbings of them, and by these they have been -restored. Warden Nicholas, though not a man of -puritanical views, removed the screen.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_college" id="image_college"><img src="images/college.jpg" alt="The College Chapel" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The College Chapel - </p> -</div> - -<p>The College was visited by Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, and when -reverses came it was still safe, for Nicholas Love, the -regicide, son of a warden of that name, exerted himself -for its preservation, and Colonel Nathaniel -Fiennes, who was an old Wykehamist, when Cromwell -took possession of Winchester, placed a guard -at the gates of the College to prevent any depredations.</p> - -<p>Poetic memories cluster richly around these old -walls. Ken has been mentioned, and Otway should -not be forgotten, but time ripened more abundant -fruit. There was Young, to whom so many wise -reflections came when—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Night, sable goddess! from her ebon throne</div> - <div class="p_line">In rayless majesty now stretches forth</div> - <div class="p_line">Her leaden sceptre o’er a slumbering world.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">and whose lines, “Procrastination is the thief of -time,” “At thirty man suspects himself a fool,” and -“All men think all men mortal but themselves,” -have become household words. Then there was -“Tom Warton,” of whom Johnson said that he was -the only man of genius he knew that had no heart. -In one sense the remark was perhaps true. Although -he was eminently sociable and genial, he -seems, from his writings, to have been free from -those amorous perplexities in which most poets are -involved. But he had a fine imagination, great -power of expression, and a considerable vein of -humour. Next came poor Collins, who died insane. -His father, a hatter, determined, like Sugden the -barber, to give his son the very best education. -Collins was a strange, fantastical fellow, though not -unworthy of the feather he wore in his cap. He -became a demi of Magdalen College, Oxford, and -wrote three odes—to Evening, to the Passions, and -on the Death of Thompson—never surpassed in the -English language. Truly the tree of knowledge was -here hung with golden fruit. Many other eminent -men have issued hence to adorn the Church and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> -State, whose solid acquirements must not cause us -to undervalue the gifts of Sydney Smith, another -Wykehamist, who “could make not only the guests -and servants, but even the portraits laugh.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">School Fare.</div> - -<p>Warton in his panegyric on ale, and in the affection -he practically showed for it, may have been influenced -by the remembrance of the joyous drinks of his -school life. He says:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line_i16">“Let the tender swain</div> - <div class="p_line">Each morn regale with nerve-relaxing tea</div> - <div class="p_line">Companion meet for languor-loving nymphs;”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">and adds that he prefers a “material breakfast,” -consisting of a crust and tankard of ale. As -late as seventy years ago the boys continued -to have beer for breakfast, indeed that, and that -only, was allowed them liberally. Winchester seems -to have been long in forgetting the good old -Saxon times when each alderman consumed two -gallons of beer at a sitting. As for the boys’ -dinner, what between fagging, and the seniors -having the first cut at the joint, the juniors often -had none—vegetables, never. When the square bits -of board were their only plates, they were certainly -not indulged with gravy. No wonder that they -heartily sang the “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Dulce Domum</span>” in the college<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> -meads when the time came for them to disperse for -their summer holidays.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_study" id="image_study"><img src="images/study.jpg" alt="Corner of a College Study" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Corner of a College Study. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Passing on down College Street, and admiring some -Virginian creepers, more bright than Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr>’s -stained glass, we soon came to the large gates of -Wolvesey Castle. There was a fortress here in Saxon -times, built, it is said, by Cynegils, and made over -by his son to the bishops of Winchester. There is a -mystery about the name. Some think it means Wolf’s -Island. Milner says the name came from Edgar -having required a Welsh prince to find 300 wolves’ -heads and deposit them here every year. These -animals were then great pests, and when Alfred wrote -requesting the Archbishop of Rheims to permit <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Grimbald to come over, he sent him a present of wolf -hounds. The prelate acceding, says that the saint is -“not a dumb dog, but able to bark and drive away -evil spirits.”</p> - -<p>The earlier castle which stood on this site had a -literary celebrity. Here Alfred’s scribes compiled the -Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, assisted by the King himself. -He ordered the precious volume to be kept at -Wolvesey—it is now in Corpus Christi College, -Cambridge. This was the first English prose book.</p> - -<p>The structure of which we now see the ruins was -built by Bishop de Blois, brother of King Stephen,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> -out of the materials of the former castle, and of the -Saxon palace in the square. It was not long constructed -before it was used in a manner which showed -that the bishop’s weapons were not entirely spiritual.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Burning of Winchester.</div> - -<p>In 1141, during the civil wars, the southern part of -the city, including the Bishop’s palace and the Cathedral, -supported King Stephen, while the northern, -containing the best houses and Royal Castle, held -out for the Empress Matilda. A storm of fire-balls -poured forth from Wolvesey Castle, destroying the -Abbey of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary, twenty churches, large private -buildings, the suburb of Hyde, and the splendid -monastery there situated. Fighting and firing raged in -the heart of the city for seven weeks! The Northern -party were at last driven into the Royal Castle, and -the water cut off. The Empress now adopted a -clever expedient; she kept out of sight, caused a -report to be circulated that she was dead, and had -preparations made for her funeral. Her body was -enclosed in lead like a corpse, and was thus allowed -to be carried out in a horse-litter through the -besiegers’ camp. Once safely in the open country -she soon was out of her coffin and into her saddle, -and, bestriding her good steed, galloped off towards -Devizes. Stephen, upon his obtaining the castle, -prepared it for vigorous defence, but before he was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> -ready heard an army was collecting against him and -took to flight. The monks of Hyde Abbey maintained -that during this conflict Bishop de Blois intentionally -fired from Wolvesey upon their monastery.</p> - -<p>The war which devastated the country at this -time greatly interfered with agriculture, and a synod -was convened at Winchester, at which it was resolved, -“that plough and husbandman should have the same -privileges of sanctuary with churches,” and the whole -assembly, with torches in their hands, pronounced a -blazing excommunication against any one who injured -an agriculturist.</p> - -<p>Wolvesey saw Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>—who had been crowned -at Winchester—in one of his worst moments. After -the murder of À Becket he found a great storm of -public feeling raised against him, and felt no longer -safe. On the 6th of August he passed through Winchester, -and visited this grim old Norman castle, -where Henry de Blois was dying, and here he heard -the bishop’s last words of bitter reproach, as he -foretold the great calamities which Divine vengeance -would pour upon the murderer of the Archbishop. -From this Henry hurried to Wales and to the subjugation -of Ireland. As late as Leland’s time this -was “a castelle, or palace well tow’red,” and it was -a residence till the Civil War.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Raleigh.</div> - -<p>Here, in Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s time, Bishop Fox, as a -blind and aged man, was interrogated about Prince -Arthur, who was born here, and gave very interesting -and lucid replies. Here Mary first saw Philip. Here -took place the famous trial of Raleigh before Popham -and others, during which the apartments of the -warden and fellows of the College were requisitioned -for the judges, sheriffs, and principal lawyers. The -fine old sailor kept a very cheerful countenance, we -are told, though so unwell and feeble that he was -accommodated with a seat. He was charged with -attempting to induce foreign enemies to invade the -King’s dominions; with attempting to restore the -Romish religion; and to place on the throne Arabella -Stuart, whom he was to meet in Jersey. The celebrated -Coke was the Crown counsel against him, and -indulged in virulent and coarse invectives, calling him -a terrible and detestable traitor.</p> - -<p>“He hath a Spanish heart. You are an odious -man. See with what a —— forehead he defends his -faults. His treason tends not only to the destruction -of our souls, but to the loss of our goods, lands, and -lives. This is the man who would take away the -King and his cubs.”</p> - -<p>Raleigh sometimes smiled during this tirade. -The last accusation was the only one which moved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> -him, and he said, referring to it, that Coke was a -base slave. “Humble, but not prostrate,” he answered -for himself; “showing love of life rather -than fear of death.” The charges against him were -on the authority of only one man, his former friend, -Lord Cobham. Raleigh quoted Scripture, that “in -the mouth of two or three witnesses shall every -word be established,” and demanded that Cobham -should be brought face to face with him. This was -refused. He said that in the Tower he got a poor -fellow to throw up an apple with a letter tied to it to -Cobham, who said, in reply, that he had wronged him. -But all was of no avail, and Popham condemned -Raleigh to be hanged till half dead, and then cut -down, quartered, and disembowelled. He left the -court without showing any signs of dismay. This -account is the more interesting and valuable, as it -comes from the pen of Sir Thomas Overbury, an -estimable man, poisoned by Carr, who afterwards -married his wife.</p> - -<p>Raleigh, though he remained afterwards thirteen -years in the Tower, until his unfortunate and dishonest -expedition, was finally executed under this -sentence passed at Winchester.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Wolvesey.</div> - -<p>All is now peaceful enough at Wolvesey. Time -has gnawed the walls, the Roundheads destroyed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> -defences, and Bishop Morley peeled the whole to -erect the new palace which now stands beside these -sad remains. The string courses in the walls seem to -be a continuation of Roman architecture, and we -observe two good Norman windows and a couple of -imperfect arches; the outside of the keep can still be -recognized and the refectory. But nearly all the -interior is in a confused state of disintegration, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> -the man who can call the ruins picturesque must -have a happy imagination. Morley’s palace, now -used for school classes, is uninteresting; so is the -chapel, though, as a builder who had to repair the -roof assured me, the wood there, the east window -and south wall existed in the days of the castle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_itchen" id="image_itchen"><img src="images/itchen.jpg" alt="The Tower of the College Chapel from the Itchen" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Tower of the College Chapel from the Itchen. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Leaving Wolvesey, we continued by the line of the -city wall, and marked in places the insertion of -Roman tiles. There is little here to recall the conflicts -of men, but much, in the dark fruit-laden boughs, -to make us reflect on the generosity of nature and on -piping times, when every man can sit happily beneath -his own vine and fig-tree. And now we continue our -walk by the smooth river and by cottage gardens -bright with everlastings and “gipsy roses” (scabious), -till we find ourselves again on the site of the Eastgate -from which we started.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_46" id="Footnote_46"></a><a href="#Anchor_46">[46]</a></td> - <td>Called of Winchester from having been born there.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_47" id="Footnote_47"></a><a href="#Anchor_47">[47]</a></td> - <td>These town ditches were let to different parties, the grass -being of some value. In the Black Book we find, in Henry -<abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>’s reign, a grant by the Mayor of Winchester, giving to the -Abbot and Convent of the Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Barnabas, of Hyde, a -certain part of a ditch called Walldych, extending from the -Northern Bridge to a certain place called the Bowe, where -flows Kyngesbroke. The convent to resign all claim to the -fishing in the ditch, and give free ingress to a certain part at -the end of the bridge called Northbrigge, for nets and all -instruments for cleaning.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_48" id="Footnote_48"></a><a href="#Anchor_48">[48]</a></td> - <td>In the <cite class="plain"><abbr title="Patent">Pat.</abbr> Rolls</cite>, 43 <abbr title="Edward the Third">Ed. III.</abbr>, there is an order for towers -and walls to be repaired.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_49" id="Footnote_49"></a><a href="#Anchor_49">[49]</a></td> - <td>Near this, at the commencement of the Andover Road, a -Roman coin of the year 340 was found at a depth of sixteen -feet. The staple grounds were within the walls here.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_50" id="Footnote_50"></a><a href="#Anchor_50">[50]</a></td> - <td>The monks of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun had “Viridaria” or pleasure -grounds outside the precincts.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_51" id="Footnote_51"></a><a href="#Anchor_51">[51]</a></td> - <td>Founded by the brethren of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s for fifteen nursing -sisters.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_52" id="Footnote_52"></a><a href="#Anchor_52">[52]</a></td> - <td>Wykeham seems to have had a peculiar reverence for <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Thomas à Becket. The election of scholars into New College -and Winchester School was to take place every year between -the festival of the Translation of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Thomas à Becket -(July 7), and the 1st of October.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_53" id="Footnote_53"></a><a href="#Anchor_53">[53]</a></td> - <td>There are here also three Anglo-Saxon charters, and in the -Audit-room some fifteenth-century tapestries and the coats of -mail worn by the warden’s escort.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_54" id="Footnote_54"></a><a href="#Anchor_54">[54]</a></td> - <td>His father’s name was John Longe, perhaps from his stature.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_55" id="Footnote_55"></a><a href="#Anchor_55">[55]</a></td> - <td>Does this similarity account for the proverbial good luck -of the horse shoe?</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_56" id="Footnote_56"></a><a href="#Anchor_56">[56]</a></td> - <td>That is, Richmond, where Wykeham improved the palace.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_57" id="Footnote_57"></a><a href="#Anchor_57">[57]</a></td> - <td>When Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr> founded Eton on the plan of Winchester, -Wayneflete (the headmaster here and afterwards bishop) -migrated with five fellows to the new foundation.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_58" id="Footnote_58"></a><a href="#Anchor_58">[58]</a></td> - <td>Wykehamists are proud of this gallant soldier who fell -recently, fighting in the Soudan, and have erected a memorial -gateway in his honour.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> - -<h2>FOURTH DAY.</h2> - -<p class="summary">Jewry Street and the Jews — Hyde Abbey — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald — Destruction -of Tombs — Headbourne Worthy — King’s -Worthy — The Nun’s Walk.</p> - -<p>The west side of the George Hotel is in Jewry -Street, the <i>ghetto</i>, a name recalling the wealth, -rapacity, and persecutions of this peculiar people. -They managed to obtain property and to increase in -this city, apparently in the thirteenth century, previous -to which this street was called Scowertene Street. In -1232 a story was circulated that a boy had been -tortured and murdered by them.</p> - -<p>“Invented, perhaps, by their debtors,” suggested -Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>In Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s reign there was an order that the -Jews in Winchester should be taxed according to -their ability, as in London; but when the barons -sacked the town they are said to have extirpated -them. In 1268, however, one of them was made a -member of the Merchants’ Guild here, the only fact,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> -as far as I know, that corroborates the statement of -Richard of Devizes, that “Winchester alone, the -people being prudent, spared its vermin.” We have -seen what became of “Aaron’s land,” and that of the -“son of Abraham” did not escape confiscation, for -we find that in Edward <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s reign—“Thomas de Palmere -was granted a messuage in the great street of -Winchester, valued at four shillings a year. It had -belonged to Benedict, son of Abraham the Jew, and -had been forfeited to the King.”<a name="Anchor_59" id="Anchor_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 59.">[59]</a> At a Parliament, -held here in 1290, the Jews were expelled from the -country.</p> - -<p>Proceeding up the street, we pass on the right-hand -side the old stable in which “Master Say” was -tortured in the time of the Civil War. A little farther -on, if we look up over the shops on the other side, we -shall plainly trace the outlines of a large building. -This was once the city gaol, built by James <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, rebuilt -in 1771, and the central portion of it, where there is -now an ironmonger’s shop, was the governor’s house -about twenty years since, and boasted a haunted -chamber, in which one of the debtors committed -suicide. It was afterwards used for the Museum -until the Guildhall was built in 1873, and the gaol<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> -and bridewell were removed to the Romsey Road. -Farther on stands the Corn Exchange and Cattle -Market.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hyde Street.</div> - -<p>Crossing the City Road we went straight on into -Hyde Street, which seems like a continuation of -Jewry Street. On the right Fossedyke House -commemorates the city walls and ditch. Farther on -I noticed a relic of the past—a small shop with a -gable, very low rooms, and windows scarcely more -than a foot high. Two steps descended into it, a proof -of age—as either the soil outside has risen, or the -owner has been, like the Irishman, “raising his roof.” -On the other side, we came to the large malthouse -of Mr. Dear, with walls of cut stone, formerly a barn -belonging to Hyde Abbey.</p> - -<p>Opposite, we see through a side street the -“Soldiers’ Home.” This was about fifty years ago -the celebrated school of Mr. Richards, at which were -Deans Garnier and Gaisford, Lord Liverpool, George -Canning, Wolfe the poet, and perhaps Disraeli who -was at a boarding school in Winchester. It was afterwards -the Museum, and is now used for Salvation -meetings. The Army has been “bombarding” Winchester -for some time, and now marches through the -streets with Salvation guernseys, hallelujah bonnets, -and scarves white, red, and blue, to the music of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> -drums, trumpets, and cymbals. All this noise and -dramatic show is attractive: whether it makes people -religious I cannot say, but it promotes the cause of -teetotalism. I went one day from curiosity to a “free -and easy” at the Corn Exchange, and observed that -the congregation were mostly men. Their attention -was kept by the variations in the service, by “knee-drill,” -singing on the knees, clapping the hands, and -singing with the eyes shut. The preacher, an -eloquent man, said they wanted money to build a -barrack in Parchment Street, which was to be somewhat -larger than the Cathedral! (a titter.) He added -that some considered that the Salvationists could do -nothing right, nothing properly. They even thought -they could not make a collection properly, and he -was almost inclined to agree with them, when he saw -the miserable contributions there were last Sunday.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hyde Abbey.</div> - -<p>A Roman urn was found in this street; and in -turning to the right, down Alfred Place I noticed -a corner-stone of a “Druidical” character. In a few -yards, we came to the little church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Bartholomew, -with a Norman entrance arch, rich in zig-zag—one-third -restored. Here is a stoup, and the lancet -windows in the nave are in their original positions. -Close beside the churchyard is a building with an -arch, apparently the entrance to the monastery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> -On either side of the arch is a head, much decayed, -but the drawn-back hair can be traced, and the -crowns of Alfred and his son Edward, it is supposed. -These carvings seem older than the arch, which is -only Tudor. In the massive wall of an adjoining -garden a low window was pointed out to me, now -half hidden in the soil; and until lately there was an -arch visible beside it, which is now walled up. Passing -through the gate into the farmyard I came to the -stream which rises at Headbourne Worthy, and here -runs under a very primitive arch, which has some of -the old monastery wall still remaining on it. The -rivulet flows round the black fence of the Steam -Laundry into a street, called from it, Upper Brooks.</p> - -<p>I found that the road past the monastery ended -immediately, and learned that the reason of this was -that for a short time the Bridewell, for which the -ruins of Hyde Abbey were despoiled, stood till late -years at the termination.</p> - -<p>This information I obtained from a mechanic -whom we met with. I was desirous of obtaining local -information, and asked him if there were more ruins -here.</p> - -<p>“Well, sir, I think there’s some of the old tackle -up there,” he replied, pointing in the direction of the -barn.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Do you belong to this place?” I said.</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir,” he replied; “and for forty years I -belonged to the devil.”</p> - -<p>I stared at him, for he was a most respectable-looking -man.</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir, I did,” he continued. “But what a -difference it makes to a man when he has his eyes -opened! I never used to pray. I used to eat and -drink and work, and go once a week to the organ-loft -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Bartholomew’s there, and have a sing, and -thought that was all that was necessary. How differently -I feel now!”</p> - -<p>“Much better, no doubt,” I returned. “Have any -ancient remains been discovered here?”</p> - -<p>“Something less than twenty years ago a man was -digging about the site of this bridewell wherever they -would let him. He was a long time at it, but he had -read books, and knew exactly where to go. He was -a strange sort of man, fond of bones and coffins, -which he found and put into the church.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">King Alfred.</div> - -<p>Hyde Abbey, called the New Minster, previous to -Norman times went on its travels like the other -Winchester institutions. It was founded by Alfred -close to the northern side of the Cathedral. He -bought ground for the chapel and dormitory, and -perhaps built them, but left the main work to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> -completed by his son. It was called the Monastery -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald. When Alfred went to Rome with -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun, he stopped for some days on his way -at the convent of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Bertin, in France, and there sat, -a lovely and studious child, at the feet of Grimbald. -He not only profited by the religious teaching, but -conceived a great affection for this gracious president, -and sent for him to superintend his new foundation. -Grimbald came in 885, and the King and Archbishop -Ethred received him “as an angel.” A meeting was -called, and Grimbald made an effective speech, -strongly condemning the sins of unchastity, covetousness, -lying, murder, and theft. He also spoke of -pride and gluttony, “through which our first parent -was driven from his flowery abode.” Alfred followed -with a speech commending study to his nobility, -who were very illiterate at the time.</p> - -<p>Learning was then at a low ebb in England owing -to the ravages of the Danes, and in Winchester the -churches had been despoiled, the priests murdered, the -nuns outraged, and Christianity nearly abolished. -Alfred resolved to reinstate it, and Grimbald was -to teach the children of the thanes as well as to -give advice about the proposed monastery.</p> - -<p>Alfred died fifteen years after Grimbald’s arrival -in England, and the Annals tell us he was buried<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> -“becomingly, and with kingly honour in the royal -city of Winchester, in the church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s. -His tomb is still extant, made of the most precious -porphyry marble.” Although unwilling to say a -word against the good monks of Hyde, I fear -that it must be admitted they were now guilty -of a little trickery. The canons of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun -“foolishly thought they saw the disembodied spirit -of King Alfred moving about their habitation,” and -I am afraid we must conclude that some of the -monks of Hyde, to obtain the valuable body of -the King, dressed themselves up as the ghost and -frightened the poor canons. Thus the corpse was -transferred to the New Minster.<a name="Anchor_60" id="Anchor_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 60.">[60]</a></p> - -<p>The monastery soon obtained another melancholy -acquisition. The building was finished in 903, and, -Ponthieu in Picardy having been ravaged, the inhabitants -fled, and nobles and religious people came -swarming like bees to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald, and brought -with them the bones of the sacred confessor <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Josse—a British prince. Grimbald received this -consignment with great honour, with a brilliant -retinue of clergy, and an immense concourse of the -faithful. Miracles soon appeared, and the dry bones<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> -brought life and livelihood into the monastery. At -the dedication of the basilica to the Sacred Trinity, -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary, <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Paul, there was a brilliant -assembly, and farms were bestowed by the King -and nobles. Queen Emma afterwards gave the head -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Valentine.</p> - -<p>Grimbald, “a good singer and most learned in -holy Scripture,” had a conflict with the old scholars -at Oxford, and was not well pleased at the impartial -manner in which Alfred decided it. As he became -old he withdrew himself, and lived privately in this -Abbey at Winchester, intent only upon psalms and -hymns, and unwilling to speak of anything secular.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sword and Gown.</div> - -<p>The New Monastery fared badly after the battle -of Hastings. The Abbot at this time was unfortunately -an uncle of Harold. When he heard of -the Norman invasion he persuaded twelve stalwart -brethren to take the Saxon helmet, and, raising -twenty additional men, marched to Hastings with -his little company. They took the sword in place -of the crucifix, and used it with such effect that -they became conspicuous in the conflict. The Abbot -fell close to Harold. Perhaps their costume attracted -attention, they may have had gown and sword, but at -any rate William’s attention was attracted to them, -and he determined to take vengeance on an establishment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> -whose members gave him so much trouble. -He confiscated some fifteen manors belonging to -them—about 17,000 acres of land, and he built his -palace in such a position as greatly to inconvenience -them, shutting up the communication by <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Lawrence’s into the High Street.</p> - -<p>It now became clearly recognized that the New -Monastery was too much confined, it was so close to -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s that the ringing and singing were “like -sweet bells jangled.” The monks resolved to move -outside the city to Hyde Mead, though the ground -in that locality was so springy that they had to -bring a quantity of clay, and to cover it, in some -places, four feet deep. The old site was given to -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s, which in return gave some land and -some additional days at <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ fair. In 1110 -the fraternity moved in solemn procession, with all -their worldly goods, consisting mainly of the cross -of Cnut, body of Alfred, and some other old bones, -into what promised to be a peaceful abode.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Treasures of Hyde.</div> - -<p>But thirty years afterwards, on the occasion of -the conflict between Stephen and Matilda, the -establishment was destroyed, as I have already -said, by Bishop de Blois sending fire balls at it -out of Wolvesey. From the representations now -made to the Pope we learn how magnificently<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> -adorned the church was, and how successful had -been the miracles there wrought. The flames melted -the gold and silver, and the bishop compelled the -monks to give him the precious ashes, especially -those of the great cross, given by Cnut, which contained -sixty pounds of silver, and fifteen of gold, that -king’s revenue for a year.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_cross" id="image_cross"><img src="images/cross.jpg" alt="Cnut and Emma" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - CNUT AND EMMA (ÆLFGYFU) PLACING THE CROSS AT HYDE.<br /> - (<i>From an Anglo-Saxon MS.</i>) - </p> -</div> - -<p>There were three diadems of gold and precious -stones worth <abbr title="118 pounds">£118</abbr>, two images adorned with gold -and gems, worth <abbr title="49 pounds">£49</abbr>. Of silver there were many -other valuables, the seal of the house, two patens, -a vase for holy water, and two lavers, nobly adorned -with gold and gems, said to be of Solomonic work, -perhaps in imitation of those in the Jewish temple, -and worth <abbr title="35 pounds">£35</abbr>. De Blois had endowed his hospital -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross out of the spoil, and the whole amount of -damages claimed was not less than <abbr title="4862 pounds">£4,862</abbr>, which -might be multiplied by twenty to form a right -estimate of it at present.</p> - -<p>In consequence of the complaints sent to the -Pope, the warlike bishop had to make some restitution. -But it was not till twenty-six years afterwards -(1167) that a goldsmith’s copy of the cross<a name="Anchor_61" id="Anchor_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 61.">[61]</a> was -executed and presented to the Convent. The restoration<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> -of the buildings was gradual, and in 1312 -part was still in ruins.</p> - -<p>Hyde Abbey, though planned by <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald -with such excellent intentions, was not free from the -weakness inherent in all human institutions. There -was from 1182 such a flow of miracles from the altar -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Barnabas there that the monastery was sometimes -spoken of as if dedicated to that saint. Crowds -of poor, sick, and infirm people congregated there, -and as the place declined in morality it grew in -celebrity, so that in 1390 William of Wykeham -authorized the abbot to use a mitre, ring and -pastoral staff.</p> - -<p>In 1507 the vices attendant on wealth and luxury -became so conspicuous as to require rebuke. The -good monks were making free use of the taverns, and -were bringing into the monastery women who were -not of a saintly character. The last abbot of Hyde, -John Salcot, was “a great cleark, and singularly -learned in divinity.” He became Bishop of Bangor, -and then of Salisbury, and his principles were of -the willow pattern. At Windsor he tried three -reformers, and condemned them to be burnt, and -burnt they were; but under Edward <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr> he himself -became a reformer, and gave the Duke of Somerset -several church manors. In Mary’s reign he averred<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> -that his compliance with Edward’s wishes had been -caused by threats and from fear of his life, and -sentenced Hooper and Rogers and three others to -the stake, where they were burned.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Spoliation.</div> - -<p>Wriothesley writes in 1538, being the chief acting -commissioner here: “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">About three o’clock a.m., we -made an end of the shrine of Winchester. We think -the silver will amount to near two thousand marks. -Going to bedsward we viewed the altar. Such a piece -of work it is that we think we shall not rid of it before -Monday or Tuesday morning. Which done we -intend both at Hyde and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary’s to sweep -away all the rotten bones, called relics, which we -may not omit lest it should be thought we came -more for the treasure than for avoiding the abominations -of idolatry.</span>” Wriothesley was granted several -of the richest manors of Hyde, and having a lease -of the site, pulled down the abbey and sold the -materials. He made over the site to the Bethell -family. The lands he left to his children, but a -failure of male descent, which no doubt the Roman -Catholics regarded as a judgment, caused the abbey -manors to be distributed to many families. Some -of them went to Lady Rachel Russell, a daughter of -Thomas, Earl of Southampton. She lived much at -Stratton, where her letters were written.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1788 the magistrates of Hampshire bought -the site of the abbey to erect a bridewell. Dr. -Milner writes: “At almost every stroke of the -mattock or spade some ancient sepulchre or other -was violated, the venerable contents of which were -treated with marked indignity.” A crozier, patens, -chalices, and rings, and “fantastic capitals” were now -found, stone coffins were broken and bones scattered. -Three superior coffins were found in front of the altar, -and a slab, probably the base of a statue of Alfred, -which is now at Corby Castle, in Cumberland. It -is impossible to determine what relics were then -destroyed.</p> - -<p>The bones found in 1867 lie under a stone -marked simply with a cross, beneath the east -window of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Bartholomew’s Church. They belonged -to five persons, supposed to be Alfred, his -queen and two sons, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald. The four -first mentioned were found in a chalk vault, at the -east end of the church of Hyde Monastery. The -bones of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Grimbald were in another chalk vault, -under the chancel, near the north transept, which -extended where there is now a timber yard, on -the east side of the present church. In Milner’s -time, the ruins of the church nearly covered a -meadow. <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Bartholomew’s was probably like the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> -church at Battle, built for the tenants and servants -of the abbey. The cut stones, with which its walls -are studded, give it a chequered or chessboard -appearance, and suggest the spoliation of some -earlier building. But a portion at least, of the -church existed long before the destruction of the -abbey. The alternation of squares of stone and -flintwork is an example of what was in times past -a favourite device, now known by architects as -“diaper work.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Walk to Headbourne.</div> - -<p>Returning into Hyde Street, my friends went -home; and I, walking on towards the country, came -to some pretty outskirts of Winchester. Here are -bright villas, covered with flowering rose-trees, and a -thatched cottage swathed in ivy. The road gradually -becomes overshadowed on both sides by beeches -and elms, which soon give place on the left to -corn-fields, dotted over with children “gleazing,” -while on the right appears the long wall and -fine plantations of Abbots Barton—an old monastic -farm.</p> - -<p>Just before coming to Headbourne Worthy, I -passed two semi-detached cottages of red brick, -with ornamental windows. These cheerful dwellings -stand on a site of dark memory. Two years ago, -a hayrick was here, under which a couple of young<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> -sailors, tramping along the road, took refuge at -night from a storm. Though in this uncomfortable -position, they managed to quarrel about money—with -which neither was well provided—and at last -the discussion grew so hot that the elder—twenty-seven -years of age—pursued the younger, a boy -of eighteen round the rick, with an open knife in -his hand. The latter cried aloud, but the wind -and rain prevented his being heard, except by a -dog at a neighbouring cottage, who raised his voice -in vain. At last the deed was done, and the murderer -took three shillings from the body, which he covered -up with hay. He then made off, but was captured -and executed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A Winchester Scholar.</div> - -<p>I now descend a hill between high grassy banks, -and reach Headbourne Worthy—the stately designation -only signifying a village. The church has -a somewhat modern appearance outside, but, according -to some, has Saxon portions. At the west end, -we find a small Norman arch leading into the vestry, -where there is a bas-relief, almost obliterated, of the -Crucifixion and two Marys, larger than life. It -is supposed that these figures were originally on -the outer wall of the church, and that the room -in which they now are, in which an upper floor -and piscina are traceable, was a chapel built round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> -them. There is in the church a handsome piscina -and some sedilia. But the chief pride of the little -sanctuary is a brass, said to be in a certain sense -unique. It dates from 1434, and is in memory -of a boy who died when one of the scholars at -“New College” in Winchester. He stands here, with -closely-cut hair and a gown fastened down the front, -giving a good idea of the appearance of the scholars -of that day. A scroll proceeds out of his mouth, -with the words, “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Misericordiam Dm̄ inetm̄ cantabo</span>,” -which is supposed to mean that he will sing the -school chants eternally.</p> - -<p>I returned the keys to a small house, a few -yards off, in the garden of which I observed some -of the finest “everlastings” I had seen in this country. -Beside it ran a grass-carpeted lane, down which a -pedestrian wishing to return to Winchester in a -mile, and able to face an easy fence, might turn -to the right across a field and walk beside a bank -gay with knopweed, fleabane, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s wort, -until he reached the Nuns’ Walk. I, however, continued -up the hill, and, passing a red-brick house, -with four splendid lignums in front of it, came to -King’s Worthy—once Crown property as the name -denotes.</p> - -<p>There is nothing remarkable about the church,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> -except a Norman arch at the west entrance. The -tombstones outside are sadly gay with wreaths -and floral crosses. Short-lived they are, for the -fences not being perfect cows stray in, and, unable -to read of the virtues of the deceased, munch up -and trample on the offerings in a most unsentimental -manner. The body of the boy Parker, of whose -murder I have spoken, having been refused, as I -was told, burial at Headbourne, was interred here -on the south-west side, and a headstone raised to -his memory by subscription.</p> - -<p>Crossing the graveyard to return home, I found -myself in a field, where stand two elms of immense -height and girth. Then—in and out—under old -ivy-mantled trees—over a stile, and under the railway -arch, I come into a large oozy field, which eyebright -loves, and where sleek cattle are grazing; then I -reach the clear Itchen, dozing and gleaming in the -sun. Here I am beside the river of Isaak Walton. -I fancy that I can see on the bank opposite, the -quaint figure of the piscatorial draper, who was -always ready to exchange his yard stick for his -fishing-rod, and whose writing flows along as clearly -and smoothly as the stream he gazed on. Those -who wish to know something of his bodily presence -may look at his statue by Miss Grant.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Brooks.</div> - -<p>Awaking from my reverie, I cross by a plank -bridge the rivulet which passes Headbourne Church -and rises just above it. This stream, which accompanies -the Nuns’ Walk, is said by some old writers -to have been conducted into Winchester by Æthelwold. -It was evidently turned artificially, perhaps -by that eminent man; whoever directed it seems -to have raised the Nuns’ Walk to bank up the -stream.</p> - -<p>Another rivulet running close beside it, drawn -from the Itchen and used for irrigation, is called the -Mill Stream, from an old mill which stood near: -both flow in old water courses, as the willows along -them testify. I crossed over to the last mentioned, -which was set with the spears of bulrushes and -gemmed with blue forget-me-nots, and walked on -beside it upon fronds of silver weed, gathering -watercresses at times, which seemed refreshing under -the hot sun, till I crossed back into the Nuns’ -Walk. It is difficult to understand why this name -was given to the path, perhaps from its beauty; -for it was far from the nunnery, though close to -Hyde Monastery. If the nuns frequented it, they -must have met the monks here. Let us hope on -these trying occasions they kept their eyes rivetted -on their books, or “commercing with the skies.” In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> -the earlier period, however, the brethren were canons -and mostly married. Would that we could picture -here the stately figure of Bishop Æthelwold, whom -their worldliness so deeply grieved!</p> - -<p>Continuing along the walk by the clear stream, -and occasionally startling a trout, which shot under -the shade of the bank, I passed Abbots Barton -farm, with its mullioned windows and old sun-dial. -Farther on, I came to three little boys, fishing -with landing nets—would that Gainsborough could -have seen that group! I asked them whether they -were successful; to which they replied—</p> - -<p>“Oh, yes, we have caught several minnows, and -some dog-fish.”</p> - -<p>“Dog-fish? What may they be?”</p> - -<p>“Some call them trotters,” they returned, and -showed me the can in which their take had been -deposited; but although I looked attentively, I -could see nothing. They assured me, however, that -they were there safe enough, and I was glad they -enjoyed the sport, though I could not say much -for the fry.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Monster Trout.</div> - -<p>Trudging on in the chequered light which the -sunshine cast through the glossy leaves of witch -elms, I came to a man feeding ducks. It was one -o’clock, and he was eating his dinner of bread and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> -cucumber, with a clasp knife. Every minute he -was throwing in pieces of bread, and watching -their scrambles. I stopped as I was passing. He -looked at me with a smile, and said—</p> - -<p>“I think they are getting nearly as much as I am.”</p> - -<p>“You seem very liberal to them,” I replied.</p> - -<p>“Yes; but they ought not to be here. This -is a nursery, and they eat the small fish.”</p> - -<p>“Are there any large fish in the stream?” I -inquired.</p> - -<p>“Oh, yes, very often; but I take them out and -put them into the river. The Itchen is the place -for the large fish.”</p> - -<p>“What sized fish have you there?”</p> - -<p>“I have seen trout there of six or eight pounds, -but one was caught a few weeks ago that weighed -sixteen pounds; and you can see it now, stuffed, -at Mr. Chalkley’s, near the Butter Cross.”</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span></p> -<p>“He must have been an old fellow.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, very. I should say, twenty years. I had -known him in the upper water for three years; but -one time, when the hatch was open, he got into -the lower water and was then, in fact, in the town. -Plenty of people went out to try to catch him, -but he escaped them for eighteen months; but at -last was taken off his guard.”</p> - -<p>“Have you any other fish here?”</p> - -<p>“There are a few perch in the river, but we -don’t want them; there ought to be none at all -in it. Lower down, at Twyford, there are some -grayling; and at Bishopstoke, some salmon-ladders -have been placed to lead them up here, but they -will not come.”</p> - -<p>The capture of the large trout to which he -alluded had made quite a sensation in Winchester. -Not only was it stuffed and exhibited, but its -portrait was taken. It seems remarkable that -though the fish had been hooked so often, there -were no barbs found in its mouth—this is generally -the case, they come out by some kindly -provision of nature. I need scarcely say that this -veteran, when cooked, was not found particularly -tender.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Brooks.</div> - -<p>To the east of the walk on which I stood, -a rich pasture land extended, looking very tempting -for a stroll. It is divided into two farms—one -entered under the Hyde arch; the other by the -Mill, at the farther end of the town. The ground is -intersected with dykes and rivulets, and especially by -one large clear stream, which enjoys the unsuitable -name of the Black Ditch. This feeds the “middle -and lower brooks,” being led along the streets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> -so called. The “upper brook” street is supplied by -the stream which has travelled beside us from -Headbourne, and, being spring water, is thought -better than the rest. My impression is that the -work of Æthelwold consisted in making the small -canals or “brooks,” which flow into the town from -a few yards behind the City Road, and perhaps -some cutting across the meadow, and that the -Headbourne stream was banked up at a later period, -after the building of Hyde Monastery, through which -it took a remarkably convenient course.</p> - -<p>The southern part of this pasture land was -the scene of the famous combat between Guy and -Colbrand. Passing by some cottages covered with -ivy, and some gardens flaming with phlox, I found -myself back at <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Bartholomew’s Church.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_59" id="Footnote_59"></a><a href="#Anchor_59">[59]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"> Charter Rolls</cite>, 8 <abbr title="Edward the First">Ed. I.</abbr></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_60" id="Footnote_60"></a><a href="#Anchor_60">[60]</a></td> - <td>The Cathedral was often called the Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_61" id="Footnote_61"></a><a href="#Anchor_61">[61]</a></td> - <td>Malmsbury calls it an image of the crucifixion, with great -weight of gold, silver, and gems.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> - -<h2>FIFTH DAY.</h2> - -<p class="summary">The Cathedral — Early History — Dagon — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun — Æthelwold — The -Vocal Cross — Ordeal of Fire — Walkelin — Renovation -of the Cathedral — Civil War — Architecture — Nave — Isaak -Walton — Relics and Monuments — De la -Roche — Frescoes — Ethelmar — Crypt.</p> - -<p>Fifteen years ago I visited Winchester, and attended -service in the Cathedral. A verger, with the usual -courtesy of his kind, showed me into one of the -“misery” stalls, and I found myself very happy therein. -The music was delightful. The boys’ voices -seemed to waft me up to heaven, and the bass sent -me down below the earth. The latter performance -by one of commanding stature, who possessed something -worthy of being called an “organ,” greatly -impressed me. As I was passing out I observed to -the verger, “That bass man is very grand.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, yes, sir,” he replied;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> “if you were to hear him -hollow out, ‘Judge me,’ you would say it was the -finest thing in the world.”</p> - -<p>“That is a somewhat modern experience,” observed -Mr. Hertford. “Let us hear something about the -early history of the Cathedral.”</p> - -<p>“As early as you please,” I replied. “Warton tells -us that ‘many reputable historians report that this -city was founded by Ludor Rous Hudibras 892 years -before Christ.’”</p> - -<p>“The name Hudibras,” returned Mr. Hertford, -“suggests that they belonged to the comic school.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Britons.</div> - -<p>“Or poetic,” I continued, “Warton was poet-laureate, -and his brother was head-master here. But -there is no doubt that the site on which this Cathedral -stands was of prehistoric sanctity. Hard by at the -southern gate of the Close we find in the road two -Druidical monoliths. Was not this a place where the -long-haired, skin-clad Britons came to lay their offerings? -Did not some mighty chieftain repose here -beneath a rude dolmen? Below the crypt there is a -well which reminds us of the holy wells—such as that -of Madron in Cornwall—changed by the early Church -from pagan to Christian veneration.</p> - -<p>“A wave of the wand of the great magician, Time, -brings us to Roman days. On the south and west -are red-roofed villas, with spreading courts. Close to -us, on the east, stand the old temple of Concord, and -the new one to Apollo—low buildings, but large, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> -girdled by pillars, with acanthus-leaved capitals, such -as those we see to-day lying on the grass at Silchester. -Here pass the stately processions of white-robed -“flamens,” who here placed their principal British -college. But side by side with these time-honoured -and worn-out institutions grew up the Christian -Church. King Lucius on his conversion gave to it -the possessions of these old priests, extending 2,000 -paces on every side of the city. He built a little -house, with an oratory, dormitory, and refectory, and -placed in it monks of the order of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mark the -Evangelist. But his greatest work here was the construction -of the Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Amphibalus, two -hundred and nine paces long, eighty wide and ninety -high.<a name="Anchor_62" id="Anchor_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 62.">[62]</a>”</p> - -<p>“Paces?” interrupted Mr. Hertford, “what a stupendous -structure! and very ‘airy’ I should think. -Are you sure that it was not built for the marines?”</p> - -<p>“Large as it was,” I continued,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> “Lucius’s voice would -have filled it. We are told that when he became -Bishop of Coire, in Switzerland, he chose a rock for -his pulpit—his finger-marks remain there to prove it—and -held forth so vehemently that he was heard -twelve miles off—about as far as thunder would be -audible.”</p> - -<p>“You have evidently been among some of those -jesting monks,” he said.</p> - -<p>“Oh, no; what I have narrated about Winchester -is from no goliard, but from Rudborne, a Benedictine -of the place; a ‘sad’ fellow truly, but in the -older and better sense.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Saxons.</div> - -<p>After a great destruction of monks and buildings -during the Diocletian persecution, the brethren -rebuilt and re-entered their church—of which Constans, -son of Constantine, and afterwards Emperor, was -then high-priest—and had peace for two hundred and -ten years. Then came, in 500, the terrible Cerdic, -against whom King Arthur fought so valiantly. He -defeated the natives in a great battle where is now -the New Forest, and entered the city. The monks -were slaughtered, and an image of Dagon set up in -the Christian church. We can scarcely picture the -barbaric scenes when this prince of the Saxons was -crowned, and buried, in this heathen temple.</p> - -<p>Why does Rudborne call this the temple of the -Philistine god Dagon? Perhaps it was merely a -term of contempt, to signify an outlandish deity. -But we know that Dagon had a fish’s tail, and might -it be that the Saxons arriving by sea, invested their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> -figure of Woden here with some of the merman’s -attributes? It is a curious coincidence—nothing -more—that the Roman pavement in the Museum, -found in Minster Lane, about a hundred yards from -the west entrance of the Cathedral, is ornamented -with representations of dolphins.<a name="Anchor_63" id="Anchor_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 63.">[63]</a></p> - -<p>“I am glad we have come to the Saxons,” said Mr. -Hertford, “there is something interesting about them. -They lived in a fitful light. The sun of civilization -was struggling through the clouds of primitive darkness. -Literature was springing into life, with that -centralization which begets great achievements.”</p> - -<p>“A hundred and forty-two years after Cerdic we -reach the light,” I continued. “Cynegils destroyed -this heathen temple and began to refound Winchester -Church, which his successor, Cenwalh, -finished about the middle of the seventh century. -He dedicated it to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Birinus, who had been sent -over by Pope Honorius. Hedda translated the -bishopric of the West Saxons from Dorchester to -Winchester, and brought hither the bones of Birinus, -by means of which the neighbourhood soon began to -be blessed or cursed with miracles.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote"><abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun.</div> - -<p>We now reach the days of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun, who in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> -lifetime came down upon the Church in showers not -of water, but of gold. He induced Athelwolf, Alfred’s -father, to give tithes of the Crown lands, and the grant -was confirmed here by the King, in a grand ceremony -before the high altar of “<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s.” Swithun -(a native of the place) was first Prior and then -Bishop of Winchester, and well deserved remembrance. -He moulded the mind of Alfred, and -persuaded Ethelbald to put away his mother-in-law, -whom, by some eccentricity, he had married. -From feelings of humility, or fearing that his body -would be utilized after his death, Swithun ordered -that he should be buried outside the church on -the west; where, writes Rudborne, “a little chapel -can be seen on the north of the Cathedral.” (This -chapel, which has disappeared, was probably not built -until many years after the interment.)</p> - -<p>Æthelwold was a pillar of the Church. He repaired -the nunnery founded here by Alfred’s queen, -and purchased the sites of Ely, Peterborough, and -the “Thorney” isle, on which the “Minster of the -West” stands. He rebuilt the Cathedral of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun—upon plans apparently of that saint—assisting -in the good work not only as an architect, -but also as a manual labourer. Great opposition was -made to him by the “adversary,” but he was supported<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> -by power from above. One day a great post fell -upon him breaking nearly all the ribs on one side of -his body, and but for his falling into a pit he would -have been crushed altogether. Another day one of the -monks who were working on the highest part of the -church fell from the top to the bottom, but as soon as -he touched the earth and made the sign of the cross, -he ascended in the sight of all up to the place where -he had stood, took up his trowel, and continued his -work as if nothing had happened!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Saxon Cathedral.</div> - -<p>The church thus miraculously raised is represented -by Wolstan, who saw it, as a wondrous edifice. It -was built with “Dædalion” ingenuity. There were -so many buildings with altars round the nave that -the visitor would become confused, and not be able -to find his way about. A tower was added, detached, -and so lofty that its golden beaks (gargoyles) -caught the rays of the rising sun and, with a little -stretch of imagination, “made perpetual day.” The -crypts were like the church, so large and intricate, -that “a man in them could not find his way out and -did not know where he was.” The latter statement -was true in one sense, as the occupants were mostly -kings and bishops, who were brought in to be buried.</p> - -<p>Wolstan is grand upon the organ; indeed, he -works it a little too hard. He says that it sometimes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> -sounded like thunder, and was heard all over the city. -Whatever its modulations may have been, it must -have been powerful, for there were twelve pairs of -bellows, worked by “the arms of seventy men with -great labour and perspiration.” This instrument had -forty “musæ,” notes, I suppose, and was played by two -of the brethren.</p> - -<p>The tower was surmounted by a rod with golden -balls, which shone in the moonbeams as if they were -“stars upon earth.” On the top of all was a splendid -weather-cock. It was fitting that such a building -should be presided over by a brave bird.</p> - -<p>“The Winchester monk himself seems to have -crowed pretty loudly over it,” observed Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>Æthelwold had the body of Birinus, which Hedda -had buried simply and respectably, taken up and -wrapped in sheets of silver and gold. He was also -conveniently admonished by a dream to move the -body of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun, and a curious Saxon account of -this direction is extant.<a name="Anchor_64" id="Anchor_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 64.">[64]</a> The saint, in shining light -and full canonicals, appeared to an old smith, and -told him to send to Æthelwold to remove his bones.</p> - -<p>“Oh! sire,” replied the smith,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> “he will not believe -my word.”</p> - -<p>“Then,” quoth the saint, “let him go to my burial-place -and draw up a ring out of the coffin, and if the -ring yields at the first tug then wot he of a truth that -I sent thee to him.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Miracles.</div> - -<p>The smith was still afraid, but when the saint had -appeared three times to him he went to the tomb and -took hold of the ring, which came out of the stone at -once. But it was some years after this, before the -cures wrought led to Æthelwold’s translating the -body. The bishop took it out of the “poor tomb,” -where it had rested for 110 years, and had it placed -in a sheet of gold. He made this translation the -occasion for a great demonstration, by which a vast -crowd of people was collected; and the relics which -had produced nothing in the days of the secular -canons, now, under the care of the monks became -the source of countless miracles—not much to the -credit of the latter custodians. Within the ten days -succeeding its removal, two hundred persons were -healed, and afterwards sometimes eighteen a day. -The graveyard was so covered with the diseased lying -about that it was almost impossible to reach the -church.</p> - -<p>“I should not have attempted it,” interposed Mr. -Hertford.</p> - -<p>“Well; it would have been worth seeing,” I replied,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> -“for it was hung round from one end to the other -with crutches and cripples’ stools, and even so they -could not put half of them up.”</p> - -<p>“It is difficult to suppose,” said Mr. Hertford, -thoughtfully, “that all the money that was given -for pretended miracles was paid for nothing. Persons -whose constitutions or disorders were of a -nervous character probably received some benefit. -Their spirits would be raised by their anticipations -and the brilliance of the scene. Some recovered from -natural causes, and those who grew worse soon died, -or were not inclined to be profane in their sufferings. -You remember the remark of Diogenes?”</p> - -<p>“I have read some things he said,” I returned, -“and some attributed to him which he did not -say.”</p> - -<p>“He was visiting a temple,” continued Mr. Hertford, -“and was shown the offerings made by those -who had been cured. ‘Yes,’ he replied to the priest; -‘but if those who had not been cured had offered -gifts, they would have been far more numerous.’”</p> - -<p>It is said that the transference of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s -body, which had lain between the old wooden tower -and the church, was delayed by forty days’ rain—and -hence the proverb. The postponement may seem -strange, as the tomb was but a few feet from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> -church; but it was a main object to have a great -concourse of people.</p> - -<p>And let me here notice a coincidence. We know -that in the early centuries sun worship was much -intermingled with Christianity; we have traces of it -in our “Sunday,” in the orientation of churches, and -several observances.</p> - -<p>It has been maintained that the Elias of Scripture—the -great herald and harbinger—in some way -represented the sun, Helios, and in modern Greece -that luminary is personified, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Elias is supposed -to preside over the rainfall. The churches to this -saint stand on the sites of ancient temples to Apollo, -and here at Winchester we have a cathedral close to -the site of a temple of Apollo, dedicated to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun, who regulates the weather.</p> - -<p>Æthelwold acquired the reputation of being a -prophet, in a manner which does not reflect much -credit upon some of his friends. During Lent he -preached a powerful sermon on mortification, telling -the people to abstain from meat, courtship, and other -pleasant things. On hearing this, some wild fellow -among the crowd made a profane jest, and the -bishop, in reply, said that he foresaw his approaching -death. Next morning the offender was found really -dead,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> “his throat cut by the devil.”</p> - -<p>Many bodies of the great were moved by this -bishop, and, in turn, after he himself had been buried, -he was taken up and made to work.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Monks’ Success.</div> - -<p>In these days of Dunstan there was great activity -in ecclesiastical affairs, a great conflict between the -priests and monks. The authority of the Pope, which -had not been hitherto fully recognized by the English -Church, was now established. We are told that the -canons of Winchester shirked the trouble of chanting, -consumed in country residences the goods of the -Church, and deputed their duties to poorly-paid -vicars. “<cite class="plain">The Golden History</cite>” states that the canons -were in the habit of turning off the wives they had -illicitly taken, and taking others, and were guilty of -gluttony and drunkenness. Such were the charges -made against them by the monks, and the King -turned out the canons of the old and new monasteries -(<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s and Hyde); but it may be observed -that in the early English Church marriage of priests -was not forbidden. We read that at the New Monastery -all the canons were in 968 called on to take the -Benedictine habit, “and robes and cowls were brought -into the choir,” Dunstan having established the Benedictines -in England. But the old clergy were not -without friends, and determined not to yield without -a struggle. A great meeting was held in the refectory<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> -of the old monastery. All the magnates of the -country came to support the dispossessed canons; -on the other side were Oswald, Archbishop of York, -Æthelwold, Bishop of Winchester, and the monks. -Dunstan sat next to King Edgar, who had his back -to the wall, whereon was a cross, placed there it is -remarked, in the days of Ethelred, when the -canons first succeeded the slaughtered monks. The -temporal lords now promised that the canons would -reform their manners, and begged for their restitution. -Edgar was moved by their “sighs and tears,” -and was about to consent, when Dunstan’s genius, -heaven-born or not, came to the assistance of the -monks. A voice suddenly came from an image on -the cross behind Edgar, “Let this not be; ye have -judged well. Ye may not change for the better.” -Edgar and Dunstan alone heard the voice. They -were struck dumb, and fell to the ground. The voice -was then heard a second time: “Arise, fear not, for -justice and peace have kissed each other in the -monks.”</p> - -<p>“It is evident that the speaker, whoever he was, -had no sense of the ludicrous,” said Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>“We are led,” I added,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> “to think of the peculiar -orifice there is in the Castle Hall just behind the -daïs.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cathedral Treasures.</div> - -<p>When the Danes obtained the sovereignty the -butter-boat of the monks was still safe. Cnut enriched -the Cathedral with a mass of gold and silver -and of jewels, the brilliance of which “frightened -strangers.” His own crown, either in his lifetime, or -more probably after his body had lain in State before -the high altar, was placed on the head of the Saviour, -on the Cross which stood here. He gave a splendid -shrine for Birinus, and a silver candelabrum with six -branches. A magnificent golden cross, two large -images of gold and silver, and shrines for relics were -also bestowed.<a name="Anchor_65" id="Anchor_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 65.">[65]</a> Much of this munificence was suggested -by his queen, Emma, who was a devotee.<a name="Anchor_66" id="Anchor_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 66.">[66]</a> -She had Alwyn, a relation of her own, made Bishop -of Winchester. Perhaps her partiality for this monastery -caused some jealousy, for after her son, Edward -the Confessor, had been crowned here in 1042, she -was accused of being improperly familiar with the -bishop, of consenting to the death of her son, Alfred<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> -and of opposing Edward’s accession. The King -himself came down here in disguise to watch her, -and soon her treasury in Winchester was seized, and -she was compelled to retire to the convent of Wherwell. -We are told that she felt greatly her reduced -circumstances, “because the worst part of poverty was -that it made people contemptible.” A memorable, if -not legendary, scene is now recorded by Rudborne. -“Emma the Lady,” once the “Flower of Normandy,” -demands to have her innocence tried by walking over -red-hot ploughshares. The day draws near. She -spends the night in prayers and tears, and in visiting -the tomb of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun: the saint bids her be of good -courage. Next morning a crowd of clergy and laity -collect in the Cathedral; the King is in his State -robes. Nine dreadful red-hot ploughshares are -brought forth. The Queen advances and addresses -the King. “My lord and son, I, Emma, that bore -you, accused before you of crimes against you and -Alfred, my son, and of base conduct with Alwyn the -bishop, call God to witness in my person whether I -have had in my mind any of these things attributed -to me.” She then throws off her outer robe and takes -off her shoes. A tremor of terror passes through the -vast multitude, and the cry rends the air, “<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun, -save her!” Rudborne does not minimize it; he says<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> -that it was so loud that the saint must have come -then or never. “Heaven suffers violence, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun is dragged down by force”—such are his -words. Thus encouraged, the Queen advances between -two bishops, and walks over the ploughshares, -with her eyes turned towards heaven, exclaiming, -“God, who delivered Susannah from the wicked old -men, and the boys from the furnace, deliver me, for -the sake of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun.” She seemed to be walking -“on roses,” and so little did she feel the fire that -when all was over she asked when the trial was to -begin!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ordeal by Fire.</div> - -<p>We cannot spoil the prettiest picture in Winchester’s -history by a suggestion of falsehood or -over-colouring. One of the ploughshares is said to -have been afterwards found; and, as to the feat, there -was no difficulty, for was she not treading on ground -radiant with miracles?</p> - -<p>Under the Conqueror and Rufus the Cathedral -was rebuilt, with the exception of the tower, by his -kinsman, Walkelin. This bishop was an estimable -man, and possessed such an unusual disposition that, -although ascetic himself, he was tolerant to others. -Never was he known to speak a harsh word, and, it -is said, that he loved the monks “as if they were -divinities.” The man who built this great edifice, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> -much of whose work still remains, neither ate fish nor -flesh.</p> - -<p>“The vegetarians ought to be proud of him,” -observed Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>“And the teetotalers,” I continued, “will be glad -to hear that he very seldom touched wine or beer. -His end was sad. Rufus demanded <abbr title="200 pounds">£200</abbr> from him, -and he knowing that he could not obtain that sum -without oppressing the poor or despoiling the Church, -prayed that he might die; and we are told that ten -days afterwards his prayer was granted, but we hear -no details about it. His brother Simeon, at one time -prior here, was of an equally genial disposition. -Being shocked at the sight of the monks devouring -meat on the fast days, he ordered some fish to be -exquisitely cooked and set before them. The -brethren relished the dish so much that they said -they never wished to eat meat any more, and by -this savoury device the worthy prior enabled them -to indulge their appetites without endangering their -souls.”</p> - -<p>How it must have grieved the soul of Walkelin -to be associated with such a creature as Ralph -Flambard, who was a contrast to him in everything! -When the King went abroad the entire government -of the country was committed to these two opposing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> -spirits. Flambard was unscrupulous and ingenious, -and but for the injury done to religion there would -seem to have been something almost comic in his -career. Rufus, whose chaplain he was, never tired -of heaping promotion upon one as unprincipled as -himself. He was made Abbot of Hyde at Winchester, -Bishop of Chichester, and Bishop of Lincoln. -Many of the churches under his supervision were -without priests or ministrations, and such were his -exactions from rich and poor that they “did not -care whether they were dead or alive.” This genius -was thrown into prison by Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> when he came to -the throne, but was too slippery for him: soon made -his escape, and was over in Normandy abetting Duke -Robert, who had a right to the English crown, and -managing affairs so skilfully that upon a temporary -reconciliation between the brothers, Flambard was -received back and made Bishop of Durham.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Scandals.</div> - -<p>A few years later the bishop’s misdoings became -so notorious that reports of them reached Rome, and -the Pope’s legate, John de Crema, was directed to -visit the diocese and make inquiries. Flambard -was equal to the occasion. He received the legate -with great ceremony, and entertained him at a -sumptuous banquet. While the bowl was flowing, -he introduced him to his niece, whom he instructed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> -do her best to captivate him. John, who it seems had -not the gifts of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Anthony, was soon “with love -and wine at once oppressed,” fell into the trap, and -finally arranged with the fair deceiver to come to his -room. She kept her promise only too faithfully. -But scarcely had she entered when in rushed the -bishop with a crowd of priests and acolytes carrying -lamps and goblets, and calling out “Benedicite, -benedicite! we congratulate you on your marriage—drink—we -drink your health!” The legate was -overwhelmed with confusion. Before daybreak he -was up and off on his way to Rome leaving the gay -bishop and his peccadilloes to take care of themselves.<a name="Anchor_67" id="Anchor_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 67.">[67]</a></p> - -<p>The history of this Cathedral has not been entirely -one of peace. In 1188 armed men were brought into -it, who, at the instigation of certain nobles, “not afraid -to lift their hands against God’s anointed, dragged -forth some of God’s servants.” In 1274, Andrew, -Prior of Winchester, came here with a body of armed -men. Sentinels were placed by the bishop to prevent -their entering, and the prior made an attack on the -third day. The bishop called his adherents together, -barricaded the Cathedral, and excommunicated the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> -prior. The King hearing of this immediately sent -down justiciaries, and cooled by terms of imprisonment -the “anger in celestial minds.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Construction.</div> - -<p>By the time two hundred and fifty years had -elapsed, Walkelin’s nave had become somewhat dilapidated, -and Bishop Edington undertook its renovation. -He built the west porch and one of the westernmost -windows in the south aisle and two in the north. -Wykeham carried on the good work for ten years, till -his death in 1404, having commenced it as a septuagenarian. -He finished the south aisle and began -the north, and left 500 marks to glaze the windows.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> -His work was that of adaptation—pulling down the -triforium and casing the pillars. Portions of the old -Norman pillars, then concealed by chapels, can still -be seen near the stairs to the choir.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_wykeham" id="image_wykeham"><img src="images/wykeham.jpg" alt="Wykeham’s Tomb" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Wykeham’s Tomb - </p> -</div> - -<p>The work of construction was finished by Cardinal -Beaufort and Bishop Wayneflete. We now come to a -less pleasing subject for consideration—the work of -demolition.</p> - -<p>“Thomas did us more harm than Oliver”—such is -the saying at Winchester. Among the spoils which -the creatures of the former catalogued here for Henry -<abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, we find:—</p> - -<div class="smaller" lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng"> - -<p>“<i>Imprimus.</i> The nether part of the high altar being of plate -of gold garnished with stones. The front above being of -broidery work and pearls, and above that a table of images -of silver and gilt, garnished with stones.</p> - -<p>“<i>Item.</i> Above that altar a great cross and an image of plate -of gold.</p> - -<p>“<i>Item.</i> Behind the high altar, <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s shrine, being of -plate of silver and gilt, garnished with stones.</p> - -<p>“<i>Item.</i> In the body of the Church a great cross and an image -of Christ and Mary and John, being of plate silver, partly gilt.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span></p> -<p>“The treasures of gold are—</p> - -<p class="allin noindent"> -Five crosses garnished with silver.<br /> -One pair of candlesticks.<br /> -Three chalices—one with stones.<br /> -Four Pontifical rings.<br /> -Two saints’ arms in plate of gold.<a name="Anchor_68" id="Anchor_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 68.">[68]</a><br /> -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Philip’s foot in plate of gold and stones.<br /> -A book of the four Evangelists written all with gold and the outer side<br /> -of plate of gold.”<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">Demolition.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_chapter" id="image_chapter"><img src="images/chapter.jpg" alt="A Fragment of the Chapter House" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - A Fragment of the Chapter House. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Bishop Horne, who died in 1580, and was buried -near Bishop Edington’s chantry, was a detrimental -reformer. To make himself conspicuous in taking -what appeared to be the winning side he did a -great amount of damage to the Cathedral, not only -removing crucifix, images, and paintings, but actually -knocking down the cloisters and chapter-house. A -few arches on the back of the Deanery still remain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> -sad memorials of these buildings, and of his misdirected -zeal.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Civil War.</div> - -<p>Much damage, but of a more petty character, was -done here by the Roundhead soldiery during the -Civil War. In the middle of December, 1642, the -city, having been taken by Waller, was pillaged and -the Cathedral doors burst open. “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">As if they meant -to invade God Himself as well as His profession</span>,” -writes <cite class="plain">Mercurius</cite>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">they enter the Church with colours -flying, drums beating, matches fired; and that all -might have their part in so horrid an attempt, some -of their troops of horse also accompanied them in -their march, and rode up through the body of the -church and choir until they came to the altar: there -they begin their work, they rudely plucked down the -table and break the rail, and afterwards carried it to -an alehouse; they set it on fire, and in that fire burnt -the books of Common Prayer, and all the singing -books belonging to the choir; they throw down the -organ and break the stones of the Old and New -Testament, curiously cut out in carved work, beautified -with colours, and set round about the top of the -stalls of the choir; from hence they turn to the -monuments of the dead, some they utterly demolish, -others they deface. They begin with Bishop Fox’s -chapel which they utterly deface, they break all the -glass windows of this chapel not because they had -any pictures in them, but because they were of -coloured glass, they demolished and overturned the -monuments of Cardinal Beaufort, they deface the -monument of William of Wayneflet, Bishop of Winchester, -Lord Chancellor of England, and founder of -Magdalen College, Oxford. From thence they go -into Queen Mary’s Chapel, so called because in it she -was married to King Philip of Spain; here they -break the communion table in pieces, and the velvet -chair whereon she sat when she was married.</span>” After -speaking of the chests containing the bones of kings -and others, the narrative proceeds: “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">But these -monsters of men to whom nothing is holy, nothing -sacred, did not stick to profane and violate these -cabinets of the dead, and to scatter their bones all -over the pavement of the church; for on the north -side of the choir they threw down the chests wherein -were deposited the bones of the bishops; the like -they did to the bones of William Rufus, of Queen -Emma, of Harthacnut, and of Edward the Confessor, -and were going on to practise the same impiety -on the bones of all the rest of the West Saxon kings. -But the outcry of the people detesting so great inhumanity, -caused some of their commanders to come -in amongst them and to restrain their madness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> -Those windows which they could not reach with their -weapons they broke by throwing at them the bones -of kings and saints. They broke off the swords from -the brass statues of James <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> and Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, which -then stood at the entrance to the choir, breaking also -the cross on the globe in the hand of Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, and -hacked and hewed the crown on the head of it, -swearing they would bring him back to his Parliament.... -After all this, as if what they had already -done were all too little, they go on in their horrible -wickedness, they seize upon all the communion plate, -the Bibles and service books, rich hangings, large -cushions of velvet, all the pulpit cloths, some whereof -were of cloth of silver, some of cloth of gold. And -now, having ransacked the church, and defied God in -His own house and the king in his own statue, -having violated the urns of the dead, having abused -the bones and scattered the ashes of deceased -monarchs, bishops, saints, and confessors, they return -in triumph bearing their spoils with them. The -troopers (because they were the most conspicuous) -ride through the streets in surplices with such hoods -and tippets as they found, and that they might boast -to the world how glorious a victory they had achieved -they hold out their trophies to all spectators, for -the troopers thus clad in the priests’ vestments, rode<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> -carrying Common Prayer books in one hand and -some broken organ pipes, together with the mangled -pieces of carved work in the other.</span>”<a name="Anchor_69" id="Anchor_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 69.">[69]</a></p> - -<p>“The last part of your narrative makes me feel -melancholy,” said Miss Hertford. “Let us go into the -fresh air and see the Cathedral which has survived -these Goths and Vandals.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Square.</div> - -<p>We accordingly made our way down the High -Street, and proceeded through the passage by the -Butter Cross. Passing through the Square, we -stopped before entering the graveyard to visit Mr. -Chalkley’s, the taxidermist’s—which may be -regarded as a kind of “dead-alive” place. Here -are the beautiful remains of natives of many sunny -climes. Can we suppose that such little beings with -cherub wings and voices are—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Denied in heaven the souls they held on earth”?</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">Opposite we observed the Mechanics Institute, on the -site of which—then at the south side of the Market—there -was, until 1790, an anomalous building—a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> -butchery below, a theatre above. There were plenty -of stalls here, containing, not cushions, but meat, and -along them and at the corners stood strong oaken -columns, while hooks for joints were fastened into the -rafters which supported the floor of the theatre. -Warton humorously describes this strange combination—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Divided only by one flight of stairs</div> - <div class="p_line">The monarch swaggers and the butcher swears!</div> - <div class="p_line">Quick the transition when the curtain drops</div> - <div class="p_line">From meek Monimia’s moans to mutton chops!</div> - <div class="p_line">While for Lothario’s loss Lavinia cries,</div> - <div class="p_line">Old women scold and dealers d—— your eyes.</div> - <div class="p_line">Cleavers and scimitars give blow for blow,</div> - <div class="p_line">And heroes bleed above and sheep below!</div> - <div class="p_line">Cow-horns and trumpets mix their martial tones,</div> - <div class="p_line">Kidneys and kings, mouthing and marrow bones.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">The fashionable patrons of the drama must have -been shocked not only at the sight of the butchers’ -business, but also at that of the iron fastenings of -various heights and sizes to hold the hands and -feet of vagrants during flogging, all of which were -placed close to the entrance of the theatre. The -cries of suffering culprits would have formed a -discordant accompaniment to the harmonies of the -orchestra.<a name="Anchor_70" id="Anchor_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 70.">[70]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p> -<p>We now approach the Cathedral, through the -avenue of tall lime trees. Enthusiasts say they -were planted by Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, and let us hope that -was the case, for he is the last monarch around -whom there is any halo of romance. He had -certainly a design to connect the Palace with the -Cathedral by means of an avenue. But the tradition -which points to one of the larger elms on the south -side of the Cathedral as having been planted by his -hand, appears to me more credible.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">West Front.</div> - -<p>“What an immense west window,” exclaimed Mr. -Hertford. “It seems to monopolize all the façade -and to be out of proportion to the stone-work -around it—a very large picture in a very narrow -frame.”</p> - -<p>“This was the work of Bishop Edington,” I -observed, “begun about 1345. He did not like the -‘dim religious light’ of the Middle Ages.”</p> - -<p>What a different front did the Norman knights -here behold; something as stern and cold as their -own iron armour. A vast blank face of masonry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> -rose before them, broken only by a few plain, -round-headed windows, without even a pane of glass -to reflect the setting sun.<a name="Anchor_71" id="Anchor_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 71.">[71]</a> There is proof from -excavations, and some remains in the wall of the -garden on the south, that some kind of portico was -commenced in front of the present façade, with a -tower forty feet square at either end, but that the -work was abandoned a few feet above ground. The -interior was also severe. The pillars indeed were -about the same size and height as those we now -see—their Norman terminations still remain under -the roof—and the eight westernmost on the south -side have not been even re-cased, but only slightly -chiselled into rounder form. But they did not -originally break into graceful fans upon the -vaulting, nor were there between them lofty arches -crowned with ornamental windows. No; the -spaces were occupied by three tiers of low, round -arches, producing a monotonous effect, such as we -still see in the transepts. The vaulting of the -side aisles was also low and heavy, supporting the -deep triforium gallery. The whole structure had a -Spartan simplicity and strength characteristic of a -rude age. It terminated eastward in an apse under<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> -the place where now glows the stained-glass window -of Bishop Fox.<a name="Anchor_72" id="Anchor_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 72.">[72]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_transept" id="image_transept"><img src="images/transept.jpg" alt="In the North Transept" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - In the North Transept. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Such was the building to which the body of -Rufus “dropping blood” was brought by night -in a peasant’s cart, and where it was buried with -little lamentation. Seven years afterwards the -great tower fell, because, as the monks thought, -it could not bear to have such a wicked man -buried under it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Nave.</div> - -<p>On entering, the full effect of the great length -and height is felt.<a name="Anchor_73" id="Anchor_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 73.">[73]</a> We seem to be looking down -a lofty avenue in some primeval forest. This is -the most beautiful nave in England or in the -world, 250 feet long and 77 feet high. Truly this -pile was not raised by the</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line_i12">“lore</div> - <div class="p_line">Of nicely calculated less or more;”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">but by men—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“With a far look in their immortal eyes.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span></p> -<p>High in front of us under the eastern gable stands -the glorious window erected by Bishop Fox, in the -reign of Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr>, when the staining of glass -reached a supreme excellence never before or -afterwards attained. It would appear from the -fragments in the aisle windows that they were all -at one time coloured, but the Roundheads smashed -them, and the pieces collected were placed in the -west window, where they form a sort of farrago -or confusion—an edifying emblem of the destructive -results of revolution.<a name="Anchor_74" id="Anchor_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 74.">[74]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_james" id="image_james"><img src="images/james.jpg" alt="King James" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - King James - </p> -</div> - -<p>On either side just within the main entrance stands -the figure of a king. They have a somewhat Ethiopian -appearance and I took them for the sovereigns of -Arabia and Saba. But they really represent the -First James and Charles. They seem to be -handling their sceptres in a very formidable -manner, as if they had still Waller’s rabble in -front of them; and we read that they had swords, -which were broken off by the rebels. These -figures have a family likeness to that at Charing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> -Cross, which was by the same man, Le Soeur. They -were placed by Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> in front of the rood screen -of Inigo Jones. That monarch “of blessed memory” -also moved the organ to the side, so that an uninterrupted -view could be obtained up the Cathedral.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Font.</div> - -<p>On the right-hand side stands the celebrated -font—a heavy mass of black basalt, supposed to -be Byzantine, and of the same character as that -at East Meon. The figures on it have a little the -appearance of marionettes, and there is, in truth, -some unreality about the representation which -records the miracles of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Nicholas. A monk has -written an account of the events here brought before -us—how <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Nicholas saved three virgins from disgrace, -stilled a storm, restored a sailor to life, -healed the sick, and saved three condemned men. -Death itself could not stop the saint’s beneficence, -for after his decease he restored a child who had -fallen overboard with a golden cup. Behind the -font on the wall of the north aisle are memorials -to two remarkable women. Miss Austen is still -thought by some of the old school to be the queen -of novelists, and the fact that her works are still -published proves their merit.</p> - -<p>“I like ‘Pride and Prejudice’ very much,” said -Miss Hertford.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span></p> - -<p>The other lady here commemorated, Mrs. Montagu, -was a Shakspearian, lived among the learned and -eminent, and founded the Blue Stocking Club.</p> - -<p>“I remember well the house she built,” replied Mr. -Hertford; “it stood like a respectable old country -house in its garden in Portman Square, and has -been enlarged into Lord Portman’s mansion. She -covered her drawing-room walls with feathers, as -Cowper writes:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-2">“‘The birds put off their every hue</div> - <div class="p_line">To dress a house for Montagu.’</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">What a gay May-day the sweeps had with their -ribbons, flowers, and feasting in the good lady’s -time! We read on this tablet that she had ‘the -united advantages of beauty, wit, judgment, reputation, -and riches.’”</p> - -<p>“What a happy woman!” exclaimed Miss Hertford. -“I once heard a girl asked which she would rather -be—handsome, clever, or rich. The questioner never -imagined that any one could be all three.”</p> - -<p>Higher up on the same side, near the stairs, is -a memorial to Boles, the Royalist “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">Collonell of a -Ridgment of Foot who did <i>wounders</i> at the Battle -of Edgehill.</span>” No doubt he did, for when finally<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> -he was, with eighty men, surrounded by five thousand -rebels in the church at Alton, he held out for six -hours, and after killing six or seven with his own -sword was himself slain with sixty of his men.</p> - -<p>“Winchester is rich in monuments,” I said. “It -preceded Westminster as the burial-place of the -great and has, with that exception, more human -interest than any other sacred edifice in England.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Wykeham’s Chantry.</div> - -<p>On the opposite side of the Nave stands the -Chantry of Wykeham, of great height and beautiful -elaboration.<a name="Anchor_75" id="Anchor_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 75.">[75]</a> It happens by design or accident that -if we supposed our Lord’s body to be lying on -the cross of the original Cathedral, the site of -this monument would correspond with the wound -in His side. This was the favourite spot at which -Wykeham prayed when a boy, before an altar to -the Virgin; and here he built his tomb, on which -his figure has reposed for nearly five hundred years, -and where it may remain for five hundred more. The -good he did was not destined to be “interred with -his bones,” and the line on the resting-place of Wren, -whose truth impresses the reader, might without -impropriety have been also engraved here—</p> - -<p class="center"> -“<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Si monumentum quæras, circumspice.</span>” -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span></p> -<p>It is the rare privilege of Winchester to have here, -face to face in the Palace and Cathedral, two of the -most important works of these great master builders.</p> - -<p>Higher up the nave is the Chantry of Bishop -Edington, earlier and less ornamental than that of -Wykeham. He is the prelate who was offered the -Archbishopric of Canterbury and made the shrewd -and sportive reply, “If Canterbury is the higher -rank, Winchester is the better manger.” The date -is placed in a fanciful way at the end of the inscription -“M thrice C with <abbr class="spell">LXV</abbr> and I.”</p> - -<p>On the bishop’s vestment there is a curious -emblem of a cruciform shape, called a Fylfot or -Suastika. It is stated to signify submission to the -will of God, and to have been a symbol prior to -Christianity.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tomb of Rufus.</div> - -<p>From this point we wander into the Choir, and -admire the tall carved spires of oak, blackened by -the airs of six centuries. A verger turns up the -seats to show us the quaint carvings of an age -when humour did not seem distasteful in churches—here -is a pig playing the fiddle, another chanting, -and a third blowing the trumpet. In the centre -of the pavement lies the sphinx of the Cathedral—rude, -archaic, enigmatical. It has been surmised -to be the tomb of some royal Saxon, or of Bishop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> -de Blois. Winchester men continue to swear it is -that of Rufus, who was “buried in the choir,” but -that king’s bones seem, from an inscription on one -of the neighbouring coffers, to have been chested -and perched up by Fox. Everything about it is -a puzzle. The rebels in the Civil War broke it -open and found a silver chalice, a gold ring, and -pieces of cloth of gold, within it. This has led to -the supposition that De Blois rested here. In 1868 -it was again opened, and one of the vergers told -me he had handled the bones, had seen beside -them the arrow-head with which the king was -killed, and had remarked what an excellent set -of teeth he possessed. Remains of cloth of gold -and other tissues were discovered, and seven gold -Norman braids finely worked, as we can see in the -library, where they are preserved.<a name="Anchor_76" id="Anchor_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 76.">[76]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_choir" id="image_choir"><img src="images/choir.jpg" alt="The Choir from the Nave" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Choir from the Nave. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The altar screen must have been most effective -when the figures remained. Dean Kitchin has -given a tantalizing account of it, and during the -Civil War a wall was built before it. But throughout -the last century, the niches were filled with -modern vases, the gift of an excellent prebendary,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> -Master Harris, whose zeal was greater than his -taste.</p> - -<p>Leaving the learned to fight the dusty battle of -Rufus and De Blois, we make our way to the -iron gate, and each deposit the silver obolus to -admit us to the realms of the departed. Here a -group of visitors is waiting, and we look up at -the interesting Norman work in the south transept. -There are good reasons for supposing that the -transepts were not built continuously—a change -of plan can be traced—and it would seem that -there was at one time an intention of placing a -couple of towers at the end of each transept. The -great central tower also was erected later—after -Walkelin’s death.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Isaak Walton.</div> - -<p>Just before me stands an old oak settle, perhaps -nearly coeval with the transept. How many generations -of monks have sat on it and warmed their -withered hands over a pan of charcoal! I could -almost imagine that on certain days their ghosts -may perambulate their old haunts, and seat themselves -here again. In the centre of the transept -lies Bishop Wilberforce. On the east side is Prior -Silkstede’s Chapel, as it is called. It is now a vestry, -and here Isaak Walton is literally trodden under -foot. In answer to my inquiries, the verger pulled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> -up the matting and showed his slab inscribed with -Bishop Ken’s<a name="Anchor_77" id="Anchor_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 77.">[77]</a> verses. They are not worthy of the -author of the morning and evening hymns. They -inform us that he lived—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container" lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Full ninety years and past</div> - <div class="p_line">But now he hath begun</div> - <div class="p_line">That which will ne’er be done.</div> - <div class="p_line">Crowned with eternal Blisse</div> - <div class="p_line">We wish our souls with his.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Isaak was an erect, hale old man to the last. He -was a theologian, and we hear that to atone for long -neglect, a statue to him is about to be placed on the -screen, beside the saintly Fishermen.</p> - -<p>“I wish that Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, -had been buried here,” said Mr. Hertford, “and -that we had an epitaph on him by Milton. The -elegiacs he wrote on his death were as beautiful -as ‘Lycidas.’”</p> - -<p>And now all are ready, and we advance along -the aisle behind the choir, and come in sight of -the “presbytery screen,” some arches surmounted -by coffers, which look like small locomotives on -a railway viaduct. All this was the work of Fox, -who was bishop in the reigns of the Henrys (<abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> -and <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>). He built the clerestory and vaulting -of this part. We look up at the roof and remark -the bosses exhibiting the Tudor arms and other -heraldic emblems dear to Fox; while beyond, in -the vaulting of Bishop Lucy, the devices are more -scriptural, including not only the instruments of -the Passion, but the faces of Pilate and his better -half, and Peter’s sword with Malchus’ ear upon it.</p> - -<p>The bones of the Saxon kings and bishops -buried in the Cathedral, had been well dried and -preserved, having been placed in stone coffins pierced -with holes. Fox piously collected them into these -chests, on which he inscribed the venerated names -of their owners.<a name="Anchor_78" id="Anchor_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 78.">[78]</a> He hoisted them up, having -great confidence in the safety gained by elevation, -and his trust was justified, with regard to his -window in the gable and his statue above it, but -in respect of these chests, he did not rightly measure -the height to which mob violence might attain. -After the storm had passed away, the bones were -collected and replaced, but no one knew what -remains were stored in any particular chest. A -small set of bones has been thought to have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> -belonged to Queen Emma. There are twelve names, -and as late as 1845, the confused contents were all -safe; but by 1873, one of the twelve skulls was -gone.</p> - -<p>“Purloined, perchance, by some over-zealous -phrenologist, whose principles were not more sound -than his theories,” said Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fox’s Chantry.</div> - -<p>We now come to Fox’s Chantry, and admire the -diversified stone carving of the exterior. It is most -refined and in the best taste, while the figure of -Death stretched beneath it is in the worst, and -reminds us of the skull and cross-bones, with which -headstones were formerly adorned. We enter, and -think we can see the dark ascetic bishop kneeling -in his little stone study, for hither when blind, in -his old age, he was led daily for prayer. His -memory will ever be cherished lovingly here, and -in Oxford, where he founded Corpus Christi College. -Through this chantry, we reach the Feretory (from -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">feretra</i>, biers). Here, in ancient times, the gold and -silver shrines of Birinus, Swithun, and other saints, -the head of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Just, and one of the feet of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Philip, stood upon a platform higher than the present -one, and reflected a holy light upon the worshippers -in the choir. The contents of the feretory are now -not so brilliant, though interesting. Here lies a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> -prostrate giant—a figure of Bishop Edington—which -was once perched up over the west front, -but becoming dilapidated, was replaced by that -of Wykeham. Here is the lid, or side of a reliquary -chest (1309) with sacred subjects painted -on its panels. The other remains are melancholy -to behold, heads and portions of the bodies of -statues found about the Cathedral.</p> - -<p>“It looks like an old curiosity shop, or a -sculptor’s studio,” observed Miss Hertford.</p> - -<p>“And it reminds me,” chimed in her father, “of -a story I heard about some country labourers, who -had been visiting the British Museum. When asked -how they liked it, they said, ‘Very much, but -some had no arms, some had no legs, and some -had no heads. The butler, however, was very kind, -and told us it was intended to represent a railway -accident.’”</p> - -<p>On the other side of this feretory is Gardiner’s -Chantry. He is generally associated in our minds -with fire and faggot, but when we first read -of him, he was a young man at Paris, chiefly -remarkable for his skill in mixing salads. How -unfortunate that he did not confine himself to this -cooler occupation!—he would at least have received -the blessings of epicures. Why should we recall<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> -the ghastly past? Gardiner’s violent Catholicism -was partly from jealousy of Cranmer. Had he been -made archbishop, he might have been a reformer; -for there was a time when he was in Rome brow-beating -the Pope, on behalf of Anne Boleyn.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Death’s Effigy.</div> - -<p>The only good act the rebels did in the Cathedral -was done here; they knocked the head off the -wretched figure of Death, which had been placed, -I suppose, as a companion in misery for that in -Fox’s Chantry opposite. Perhaps the poet Young, -had these scarecrows, which he knew well, in his -mind, when he wrote—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line_i22">“Who can take</div> - <div class="p_line">Death’s portrait true? The tyrant never sat.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>The mob would, doubtless, have turned out -Gardiner’s remains had not some pious Catholics put -a skull and bones above them, which were mistaken -for the bishop’s. They would have been glad to -have put him again to destructive work, not indeed, -destroying heretics, but breaking to pieces the -saints in the stained-glass windows. In this chantry -there is still to be seen a portion of one of the -round pillars of the Norman apse.</p> - -<p>Returning through Fox’s Chantry, and proceeding -eastward, we enter the large retro-choir built<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> -in the beautiful Early English style by Bishop -de Lucy about seventy years after Walkelin’s -time. It is erected on piles, so we may be -thankful it has stood so long. Immediately at -the back of the feretory, we see an arch leading -to “the holy hole”—or, as some of our companions -called it, “the ’oly ’ole”—in which interments -formerly took place. An attempt was made to -enter it in 1789, but the masonry had fallen down -and the enterprise was relinquished. The Edwardian -canopies over it are charming. The area in which -we stand is studded with tombs. There are two -splendid chantries here—one of Bishop Wayneflete, -the founder of Magdalen College, Oxford; and the -other, of Cardinal Beaufort. Wayneflete is represented -as grasping his heart.<a name="Anchor_79" id="Anchor_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 79.">[79]</a> Both monuments -have suffered. Wayneflete’s head was so much -damaged that a new one was lately given him. -Beaufort’s figure is supposed not to be original, and -“a horse-load of pinnacles” had by Milner’s time<a name="Anchor_80" id="Anchor_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 80.">[80]</a> -fallen or been knocked off this canopy of “bewildering” -embellishment.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span></p> - -<p>An old gentleman of our company inquired whether -Cardinal Beaufort was a Roman Catholic, and I could -see by his countenance that the affirmative answer he -received greatly altered his opinion of that eminent -man.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Altar Tombs.</div> - -<p>The other monuments are “altar tombs,” comparatively -insignificant, being only two or three feet -above the pavement. But to our eyes they seemed -a promising array, and proved disappointing. We -had read that among others Prior William of -Basynge, Sir Arnald de Gaveston, Prior Silkstede -and Bishop Courtenay were lying here. On the -first we came to, that of Basynge, I deciphered the -pleasant announcement that whoever prays for him -shall obtain a hundred and forty-five days’ indulgence.</p> - -<p>“That seems,” observed Mr. Hertford, “as if he -was not so anxious about the souls of others as about -his own.”</p> - -<p>The ledger-stone which bears this inscription is -the only genuine part of the tomb.</p> - -<p>Then we come to the line of four tombs extending -from the Edwardian Arcade to the Lady Chapel. -First, there is the goodly figure of Bishop Sumner, -whose snow-white marble looks out of place among -the dark tones of distant centuries; he is not buried -here. Next to this is a tomb of some bishop of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> -fifteenth century, not that of Silkstede—a nearly -perfect skeleton in black serge and funeral boots -was found in it. Then we come to the only ancient -knight who makes a figure in the Cathedral. He is -in armour, with his legs crossed, which denotes some -rank. Surely this is Sir Arnald de Gaveston, the -Gascon knight who saved Edward <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s life. When -he died the King sent cloth of gold for his funeral.</p> - -<p>But no, he was buried in the north transept. This -is supposed to represent William de Foix.</p> - -<p>“Whoever he is Time has pulled him by the nose -a little,” said Mr. Hertford; “but he always loves to -deride the greatness of man.”</p> - -<p>“He would have had a better excuse,” I returned, -“had he treated the delightful ‘Piers’ in this unhandsome -manner.”<a name="Anchor_81" id="Anchor_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 81.">[81]</a></p> - -<p>“Why, not one of these tombs has the ring of -truth about it,” said Mr. Hertford, discontentedly.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Peter de la Roche.</div> - -<p>“Well this last one next the Lady Chapel is -genuine,” I replied. “It is that of Bishop de Lucy, -but was long asserted by an easy and patriotic error -to be that of Lucius, the British king. The occupant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> -of the tomb immediately to the north of Bishop -Sumner is unknown, but to the north-east lies -<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Petrus de Rupibus</span>. Few would understand without -a teacher that this meant Peter de la Roche, but in -that age the manner in which names were Latinized -raises a suspicion that some jesters were engaged in -the work. Thus we find Montagu rendered ‘<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">de -Monte acuto</span>;’ and in this Cathedral we have the -grave of ‘<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Johannes de Pontissara</span>,’ <i>i.e.</i>, John Sawbridge.”<a name="Anchor_82" id="Anchor_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 82.">[82]</a></p> - -<p>“Much more mellifluous,” observed Mr. Hertford. -“But one might almost say to them as Quince said -to Bottom in the ass’s head, ‘Bless me! thou art -translated.’”</p> - -<p>“Peter de la Roche,” I continued,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> “was a native -of Poictiers, and had served in youth under Richard -Cœur de Lion. He became Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s guardian -and tutor, and seemed at one time to have all the -kingly power at his command. As a bishop he -supported the Papal authority against the national -party, which was represented by Hubert de Burgh. -When unsuccessful he ‘took the cross’—went to -the Crusades. Afterwards he returned, presented the -monastery with one of the feet of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Philip, and was -able to entertain Henry sumptuously at Wolvesey -Castle. He became the head of the Government, -founded the Dominican Convent at the Eastgate, -and built (or suggested)<a name="Anchor_83" id="Anchor_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 83.">[83]</a> Netley Abbey, and the -great North ‘Solomon’s’ porch at Westminster. On -the southern wall of this area is a monument to Sir -John Cloberry—representing him as a kind of ‘fat -boy,’ with a long curly wig. He was an officer under -Monk, and contributed to bring about the Restoration. -His house was in Parchment Street.”</p> - -<p>Further on, at the extreme east, we come to Bishop -Langton’s Chantry (he died in 1500). This and the -next chapel is beautifully enriched with oak carving. -Next to this we enter the Lady Chapel, by building -which Priors Hunton and Silkstede made this the -longest cathedral in England.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mary and Philip.</div> - -<p>A gleam of gold and jewellery comes to us here -from 1554. We were told that in this Lady Chapel -Mary and Philip were married, but there is no doubt -that the ceremony was performed before the high -altar, which seemed the proper place. The chair in -which Mary sat is here, and has originated the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> -claim of the chapel. It is small, with a low back—a -faldistorium—of a form not then uncommon, but -was brave with brass nails, gilding, and velvet. It has -now a shabby and melancholy appearance, like the -performances of the sovereign who sat in it; the -horse-hair is coming out, and no wonder, for nearly -every second lady visitor poses in it as the queen -of the moment.</p> - -<p>But let us look at something better. The light of -love is in the eyes of the gloomy bride, and is even -slightly reflected from the dark, underhung visage of -the king. All the nobility are gathered from the -whole of England. The Queen in cloth of gold, -with the sword borne before her, sweeps up with -a long retinue from the west entrance, and takes her -place on the “Mount,” beneath the rood loft. On -her left is Philip, also in cloth of gold, having beside -him a large number of nobles of Spain. Golden -hangings glow in the choir, and at the altar stand six -bishops with their crosiers. But with all this brilliancy -none could fail to see the dark cloud of popular -discontent lowering in the sky, and alas! the golden -apparel concealed a sad and a false heart.</p> - -<p>In this Lady Chapel, which has such high pretensions, -the remains of some old frescoes (Silkstede’s) -long covered with paint and plaster, are still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> -visible. There are twenty-four separate designs, all -in honour of the Virgin. In one place a young man -puts a gold ring on the Virgin’s finger to keep it till -he sees his lady-love. When he returns for it he -finds it will not come off. He does not attribute this -to the trickery of the monks, but to the intervention -of the Virgin, and forthwith jilts his sweetheart and -takes the cowl. In another design a painter accustomed -to represent the devil “as ugly as he knew him -to be,” is executing on a high wall, a figure of Our -Lady, with the devil under her feet. His artistic -work is stopped by a dragon-like fiend pulling down -his scaffolding, when lo! the Virgin he has just -painted holds out her hand to him and supports -him till assistance arrives. Here also we have John -Damascen, a celebrated writer of the eighth century, -condemned by Saracen Caliph to lose his right -hand. The peccant member is cut off, and hung up -in the market-place, but on its being taken down -and applied to the wrist with prayers to the Virgin, -it is reunited.</p> - -<p>“What absurd stories,” said Miss Hertford. “I -wonder how even a child could have believed them.”</p> - -<p>“I did not credit them,” I replied,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> “but now that -I see framed on the wall that wonderful restoration -of these indistinct outlines, I may think that the -miraculous power of the Virgin is still present in her -chapel.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rebuses.</div> - -<p>Those who deem that a person guilty of a pun -should suffer imprisonment will not look with much -appreciation on the humour attempted on the vaulting -of this and the last-named chapels. All that can -be said in its behalf is that it has the flavour of a -bygone age. These rebuses seem to us puerile. -There might be a temptation to represent Silkstede -by a skein and a horse; and as Winchester was often -called Winton, and famous for its wine, there might -be something juicy in symbolizing it by a vine -issuing from a tun. But here we have a musical note -termed “long,” coming out of a tun for Langton, -and some can see a hen making a similar egress for -Hunton. The dragon issuing from a tun refers to -<cite class="plain">Proverbs</cite> <abbr title="23">xxiii.</abbr> 31, 32: “<span lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng">Look not upon the wine -when it is red, when it giveth his colour in the -cup.... At last it biteth like a serpent and -stingeth like an adder.</span>”</p> - -<p>We might be surprised that, when Fox put up the -panelling here, he did not insert his own name in a -similarly humorous manner. Reynard was a known -ecclesiastical emblem, but not a complimentary one—in -a church carving we find him preaching to a -flock of geese. Our austere bishop would have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> -shocked at such a representative; he chose the self-sacrificing -pelican.<a name="Anchor_84" id="Anchor_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 84.">[84]</a></p> - -<p>“Playing with words was much in fashion even at a -later epoch,” said Mr. Hertford. “Not a few of our -great families have punning mottoes as ‘<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Ver non -semper viret</span>’ for Vernon, ‘<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cavendo tutus</span>’ for Cavendish, -and so on.”</p> - -<p>“I do not dislike the little conceits here,” I replied; -“it shows that the ascetic monks had something fresh -and green left in them. Perhaps that fine Chantrey -monument is not so much out of place here as some -suppose. Bishop North was a good Christian and a -good cricketer. It is said that sometimes while he -was in the field hitting away, his chaplain was in the -tent bowling hard questions at the candidates for -ordination.”</p> - -<p>Our guide now took us into the next or -northernmost chapel, dedicated to the “Guardian -Angels.”</p> - -<p>“There is nothing of much interest here?” I -observed, looking around.</p> - -<p>“No, sir,” he replied,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> “except the window.”</p> - -<p>“There is nothing remarkable in that?”</p> - -<p>“No; except that it was put up by a remarkable -man,” he returned, warmly; “the best dean we could -possibly have—generous to rich and poor; and yet,” -he added, with a twinkle, “he left a good bit, -<abbr title="50000 pounds">£50,000</abbr>.”</p> - -<p>The dean of whom the verger spoke so enthusiastically -lived to be ninety-six. His son became a -dean, lived to be seventy, and died before his father. -Expectant heirs, take note.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ethelmar.</div> - -<p>Passing westward to the north presbytery aisle we -find an old-fashioned dumpy ship carved over the -grave of Harthacnut.<a name="Anchor_85" id="Anchor_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 85.">[85]</a> Hard by lies the heart of -Ethelmar, the half-brother of Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> When the -bishop, after landing at Dover, came to Winchester, -the King, who was much at this city, went out to -meet him with a grand procession. Ethelmar seems -to have been an avaricious young man;<a name="Anchor_86" id="Anchor_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 86.">[86]</a> he was -scarcely elected when he had a conflict with the -Archbishop of Canterbury, and also with the monks -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun. He deposed the prior here because<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> -he refused to give an account of some property, -and the lawsuit between him and the monks was so -serious that they mortgaged the church of Winchester -for 7,000 marks—about <abbr title="5000 pounds">£5,000</abbr>. Afterwards -Ethelmar paid off a part of this, and the monks -gave him the Isle of Portland and other property as -compensation. When the Barons held a parliament -here in 1258, Ethelmar was obliged to fly from the -country. He died in Paris when only thirty-four, -and sent over his heart, which perhaps the monks -did not much appreciate. But it proved a “golden -heart” to them in producing miracles. When the -steps of the altar were being lowered it was found -beneath them in a golden cup by a workman, who -kept the cup and placed the heart in this north -aisle.</p> - -<p>We now dive down into the crypt, and find it of -grand dimensions, propped with pillars such as we -have just seen a specimen of in Gardiner’s Chantry. -There is still a controversy as to whether this is -Saxon or Norman work. It seems strange that -Walkelin should have made no use of the extensive -excavations and foundations of the previous building, -but history asserts that the old high altar remained -after the new Cathedral was finished, and the best -authority considers that this edifice was entirely new.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> -The well in the crypt is thought to have existed -previously, as it is not symmetrically placed with -regard to the pillars. There is still water in it, I was -told. Until lately the floor was much obstructed by -earth—sixteen loads have been lately removed. -When James Ellis paid his visit about the middle of -the last century, he found “at the end of the crypt a -chapel, but the extent of it I could not examine, as -it was locked up and used as a wine vault.”<a name="Anchor_87" id="Anchor_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 87.">[87]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Frescoes.</div> - -<p>In the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, just under -the organ, there are some fine frescoes of the -thirteenth century in fair preservation, and in the -north transept, especially in the north-east corner, -there are traces of colour and patterns, and a large -but somewhat faint fresco apparently representing -some monarch. On the ancient rood screen there -were carved and painted figures, and the spires of the -stalls were gilt until the last century.</p> - -<p>As we passed down the Cathedral the sun was -setting, and the effect of the rays falling through the -vast west window was magnificent.</p> - -<p>Near the entrance on the north side there is a -remarkable door of grille work, thought to be of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> -eleventh or twelfth century, perhaps the oldest specimen -in England. It was formerly near the choir, -and the object was, it is said, to keep unsavoury and -diseased pilgrims at a safe distance.</p> - -<p>“Perhaps some of them were like the pilgrims in -the East at the present day,” said Mr. Hertford; “it -was not always easy to determine ‘where the dirt -ended and the saint began.’”</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_62" id="Footnote_62"></a><a href="#Anchor_62">[62]</a></td> - <td>He says that the monastery at this time extended all round -the church; but it is difficult to understand his description, -except that the palace and chief offices were on the south.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_63" id="Footnote_63"></a><a href="#Anchor_63">[63]</a></td> - <td>Rudborne is supposed to have put Dagon for Woden, but -he had mentioned the latter just before.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_64" id="Footnote_64"></a><a href="#Anchor_64">[64]</a></td> - <td>“<cite class="plain">Gloucester Fragment</cite>,” published by the <abbr title="Reverend">Rev.</abbr> S. Earle.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_65" id="Footnote_65"></a><a href="#Anchor_65">[65]</a></td> - <td>Edred gave a great gold cross and figures to the monastery.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_66" id="Footnote_66"></a><a href="#Anchor_66">[66]</a></td> - <td>Cnut patronized poets, and made verses himself, which at -that time showed religious tendencies. Emma, “The Rose of -Normandy,” was celebrated for her beauty; she was called by -the English Ælfgifu. It is remarkable that at the time when -she was married at Winchester to her first husband, Ethelred, -the massacre of the Danes was plotted here.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_67" id="Footnote_67"></a><a href="#Anchor_67">[67]</a></td> - <td>“Chronicle of a Monk of Winchester.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_68" id="Footnote_68"></a><a href="#Anchor_68">[68]</a></td> - <td>Athelstan had given the head of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Just.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_69" id="Footnote_69"></a><a href="#Anchor_69">[69]</a></td> - <td>After reading such accounts we can understand the -Recorder of Winchester being suspended in 1657, because -among other offences he did not reprove a man for saying that -“if all writings and pens were at liberty it would make the -Protector as black as the blackest devil in hell.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_70" id="Footnote_70"></a><a href="#Anchor_70">[70]</a></td> - <td>The cost of whipcord for these operations figures in the -<cite class="plain">City Rolls</cite>. The sufferers were stripped to the waist, and the -irons for the women were fixed lower than for the men, to -avoid injury to the breasts; after 1790 the old theatre was -used partly as a store, partly as a lock-up or watch-house. In -the reign of Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr> the pillory and cage were in the -“Square.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_71" id="Footnote_71"></a><a href="#Anchor_71">[71]</a></td> - <td>There is now here a balcony whence the bishops bestowed -their blessings on festivals.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_72" id="Footnote_72"></a><a href="#Anchor_72">[72]</a></td> - <td>The cross and two figures of Mary and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John in silver -and gold, given by Stigand, then stood over the rood screen, -which was just at the top of the stairs. The space between it -and the present screen was occupied by chapels, and afterwards -by vestries, removed in Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s time.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_73" id="Footnote_73"></a><a href="#Anchor_73">[73]</a></td> - <td>This Cathedral, measuring 556 feet from the western -entrance to the end of the Lady Chapel, is the longest in -England or on this side of the Alps. It is inferior in area only -to two English cathedrals, York and Lincoln.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_74" id="Footnote_74"></a><a href="#Anchor_74">[74]</a></td> - <td>Two figures of the Perpendicular period remain in the -west window. A little of the glass in Fox’s east gable window -is of later date.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_75" id="Footnote_75"></a><a href="#Anchor_75">[75]</a></td> - <td>Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes stood with a drawn sword to -preserve Wykeham’s Chantry when Cromwell took Winchester.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_76" id="Footnote_76"></a><a href="#Anchor_76">[76]</a></td> - <td>Rufus was extravagant in dress, and resented a present of -boots which only cost <abbr title="3 shillings">3s.</abbr></td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_77" id="Footnote_77"></a><a href="#Anchor_77">[77]</a></td> - <td>He was a Fellow of the College and a Canon of Winchester. -Ken was brother-in-law of Walton.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_78" id="Footnote_78"></a><a href="#Anchor_78">[78]</a></td> - <td>That is, approximately, for when long before, De Blois -moved many of these from the crypt, he found no inscriptions -and went by hearsay.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_79" id="Footnote_79"></a><a href="#Anchor_79">[79]</a></td> - <td>A physical representation of the exhortation, “Lift up -your hearts!” He ordered five thousand Masses to be said -for himself and his friends.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_80" id="Footnote_80"></a><a href="#Anchor_80">[80]</a></td> - <td>At the end of the last century.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_81" id="Footnote_81"></a><a href="#Anchor_81">[81]</a></td> - <td>Piers Gaveston, favourite of Edward <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, is by some thought to -have been a son of Sir Arnald. But it has been said that he was -of low origin, and even an Italian. Courtenay’s coffin was -found lately in the well of the crypt, and is now in the choir.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_82" id="Footnote_82"></a><a href="#Anchor_82">[82]</a></td> - <td>A bishop in the fourteenth century who founded, to the -south of Wolvesey Castle and east of the College, the College -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Elizabeth of Hungary. Slight traces remain.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_83" id="Footnote_83"></a><a href="#Anchor_83">[83]</a></td> - <td>Also “God’s House” at Portsmouth, the priory of Selborne, -and Titchfield Abbey.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_84" id="Footnote_84"></a><a href="#Anchor_84">[84]</a></td> - <td>He chose this which is carved in his Chantry and elsewhere -on account of his great veneration for the holy Sacrament. -Hence also he gave the name of Corpus Christi to his -college at Oxford, which keeps up this chantry.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_85" id="Footnote_85"></a><a href="#Anchor_85">[85]</a></td> - <td>Cnut’s remains are said to have been found in the Cathedral -in 1766.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_86" id="Footnote_86"></a><a href="#Anchor_86">[86]</a></td> - <td>He lived in princely style. We read of his parks and -cargoes of wine. He fined the Southampton citizens <abbr title="100 shillings">100s.</abbr> for -selling goods during <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Giles’ fair.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_87" id="Footnote_87"></a><a href="#Anchor_87">[87]</a></td> - <td><cite class="plain"><abbr title="Additional Manuscripts">Add. MSS.</abbr></cite> 6768. In this crypt are some askew arches, -the art of forming which is said to be lost. Another peculiarity -is that the east end descends as in Glasgow Cathedral.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></p> - -<h2>SIXTH DAY.</h2> - -<p class="summary">The Grenadier — Cathedral Library and Museum — The Deanery — Pilgrim’s -Hall — Precincts — Cheyney Court — Regulations -of the Monastery — North side of the Cathedral — Early -decay of the City — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s Street — Middle Brooks — Old -Houses.</p> - -<p>This day was to be devoted to visiting the -Cathedral library and precincts, and to taking a stroll -about the streets of the city.</p> - -<p>We again entered the lime-tree avenue and looked -across the burial ground. A great improvement had -been carried out within the last three years. When -I was last here it was crowded with tombstones -bending over to each other in various stages of decay, -now it presents a pleasant sward as smooth as a -bowling-green. There is a headstone close to the -path recording the gallantry of twenty-three persons -who died in an attempt to save the property of their -master from destruction by fire. Near the south-west -angle of the ground there is a better-known memorial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> -to a less heroic man, who owes his immortality to the -drollery of his epitaph. It runs as follows:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza smcap"> - <div class="p_line_i9 plus2">“In Memory of</div> - <div class="p_line_i5 plus2">THOMAS THETCHER,</div> - <div class="p_line_i3 plus2">A Grenadier in the North <abbr title="Regiment">Regt.</abbr></div> - <div class="p_line plus2">of the Hants Militia, who Died of a</div> - <div class="p_line-1 plus2">Violent Fever contracted by Drinking</div> - <div class="p_line plus2">Small Beer when hot, the 12th of May,</div> - <div class="p_line_i8 plus2">1764. Aged 26 Years.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1 plus2">“In grateful remembrance of whose universal</div> - <div class="p_line_i2 plus2">goodwill towards his Comrades, this Stone</div> - <div class="p_line plus2">is placed here at their expense, as a Small</div> - <div class="p_line_i2 plus2">testimony of their regard and concern.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-2">“‘Here sleeps in peace a Hampshire Grenadier</div> - <div class="p_line">Who caught his death by drinking cold small Beer;</div> - <div class="p_line">Soldiers be wise from his untimely fall</div> - <div class="p_line">And when ye’re hot drink Strong, or none at all.’</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1 plus2">“This Memorial being Decay’d was restored</div> - <div class="p_line plus2">by the Officers of the Garrison, <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1781—</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-2 plus4">“‘An honest Soldier never is forgot</div> - <div class="p_line plus4">Whether he die by Musket or by Pot.’”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>There seems to have been a great desire among -soldiers to commemorate this hero, or the moral of -his death, for the stone was replaced again in 1802.</p> - -<p>As we left this spot I recalled the memory of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> -Saxon, <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Brinstan, who was fond of walking here. -He was an excellent man, but of a somewhat melancholy -turn of mind. Every day he washed the feet -of the poor, and every night he would pace up and -down among the tombs saying the <i>Placebo</i> and -<i>Dirige</i>; and we are told that on one occasion when -he finished by saying with emphasis “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Requiescat in -pace</span>,” a chorus as from a multitude of voices came -from the sepulchres pronouncing a loud “Amen.”</p> - -<p>“A pious invention,” said Mr. Hertford, “unless, -indeed, some of the monks were playing him a -trick.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Roman Pavements.</div> - -<p>“Close to this,” I observed, “was found the Roman -pavement in the Museum, about ten feet underground. -Another pavement, part of which can be -seen in front of the Deanery, was discovered (1880) -in one of the western gardens of Dome Alley. The -distance between them was small, but the difference -of depth (four feet) would seem to indicate two -periods of construction. We seldom realize that the -Romans were here three or four hundred years.”</p> - -<p>In the wall bounding the graveyard on the south -we noticed an archway. This led down some steps -still remaining into a vaulted crypt (dating from -1400), where dozens of skeletons have been found. -The Dean discovered last autumn some Perpendicular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> -groining, and massive buttresses which have probably -supported a chapel where masses were “sayable.”</p> - -<p>We now made for the “Slype” Gate, at the south-west -corner of the Cathedral, beside which there is a -fanciful inscription:—</p> - -<table class="inscription" lang="la" xml:lang="la" summary="Inscription in grid form" title="Illac precator, hac viator, ambula."> - <tr> - <td>ILL</td><td> </td><td>PREC</td><td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td><td>AC</td><td> </td><td>ATOR</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>H</td><td> </td><td>VI</td><td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td><td>AMBULA.</td><td> </td><td> </td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>It appears that the public were accustomed to -make the Cathedral a thoroughfare, and therefore -it was thought desirable (about 1630) to open this -slype passage and to put up this notice. But as those -who tramped through the sacred edifice on business -were unlettered porters and labourers, this enigmatical -Latin caution could have been of little use. We, -however, obeyed the direction, and as we passed, -found some more dislocated verses on the opposite -wall giving a similar injunction in a rhyme between -the words <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">choro</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">foro</i>.</p> - -<p>“Look at the valerian and harebells on the -Cathedral wall,” said Miss Hertford. “How prettily -they mark out the architectural lines in blue and red.”</p> - -<p>After reaching the south entrance we made for the -adjacent transept, and found at the end of it an old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> -fourteenth-century door and a flight of oaken stairs -leading to the Library. As I was mounting up I -remembered how on my last visit I was conducted by -a tall, handsome man, the principal verger and, I think, -also librarian. He was remarkably courteous and -well informed. On inquiring for him now I heard -that he was no more! He had light curly hair, and -I should have thought him a young man had he not -told me that he had been sworn in as a special -constable with Louis Napoleon at the time of the -Chartist alarms. Lately I saw an extract from <cite>The -Echo</cite>, in which the writer remarked that the vergers -he had met performed their duties in a perfunctory -way, “mere gabblers,” except one at Winchester -Cathedral. My thoughts immediately turned to this -man, but I must say that the other vergers here seem -fully to appreciate the beauties and antiquities of the -place.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cathedral Library.</div> - -<p>This “library” was built after Bishop Morley’s -death as a receptacle for his bequeathed books. It -might be called a treasury or museum. Here are -two Anglo-Saxon Charters (854, 957). They begin -in Latin, but the writer seems to have become tired, -and to have lapsed into his native Anglo-Saxon -towards the end. One is attested by Alfred when a -boy. How interesting they would have been if they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> -contained autographs, but it was the custom then for -the scribe to insert the names with crosses against -them, as we should now for illiterate persons. There -is a poetical complexion about these documents -much in keeping with Anglo-Saxon taste. The first -one, after stating that “Christ reigns for ever,” says -that “It is plain to all mortals that all things that are -seen have an end, and those not seen are eternal. -Therefore I Adulf through the clemency of the High -Throned King of....”<a name="Anchor_88" id="Anchor_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 88.">[88]</a> The other commences: -“Now by vicissitudes doth the fragility of human -life wither, and the circling roll of ages come to -nought.” The Saxons had imagination, they mingled -poetry with piety; thus we read here, “In the name -of Him who in the book of everlasting life in heaven -has written down those with whom in life He is well -pleased. I Athulf,” &c.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rare Manuscripts.</div> - -<p>As we look at these old parchments we think we -can see again the hands of the long-buried monks, -can enter again their spacious monastery, of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span> -we have read such glowing descriptions. There was -a scriptorium, or writing establishment, founded in it -by <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun, and rare work was executed here—witness -that splendid specimen of illumination in -gold and colours, called the “Benedictional of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Athelwold,” made for that bishop.<a name="Anchor_89" id="Anchor_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 89.">[89]</a> Coming to a -later time we have here preserved the Book of -Zacharias of the twelfth century. But the greatest -treat for the eyes of the bibliophilist is the large folio -Vulgate of that date. It took the monks of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun’s eighty years to complete it; the work progressed -as slowly as the building of a cathedral. The -writing is beautiful, the illuminating as brilliant as if -freshly done—the gold and deep blue we especially -admired. Quaint were the designs and ideas of that -age. Here is Elijah as he goes up to heaven, drawn -by two red horses, throwing off not only his mantle, -but the rest of his clothes, perhaps the monk thought -they would be superfluous, whilst Elisha below is -catching a blue tunic he has cast down.<a name="Anchor_90" id="Anchor_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 90.">[90]</a> This work -has been bound by Dean Garnier in three volumes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> -It fell at some period into the hands of the Philistines, -who cut out several of the beautiful illustrations.</p> - -<p>There is an amusing story in connection with this -fine manuscript. Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> showed with regard to it -a spirit in advance of his age. He solicited and -terrified the monks of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s into giving it up -to him, and then made it a handsome present to his -favourite monastery at Witham.</p> - -<p>“Like the man who was so much moved with a -charity sermon that he put his neighbour’s purse on -the plate,” suggested Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>“But one of the Winchester brethren,” I added, -“hearing of the splendours of Witham, went to pay -the abbey a visit, and there saw their own Vulgate. -Explanations followed, and the monks of Witham -returned the book.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Relics.</div> - -<p>The curiosities are not limited to books.<a name="Anchor_91" id="Anchor_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 91.">[91]</a> Here -are four rings—one with a large square sapphire, -found in the disputed tomb of Rufus or De Blois. -Another with an oval sapphire belonged to Fox; and -a third was Gardiner’s, engraved with a helmeted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> -head, not unsuitable to such a belligerent bishop. -Here is the rusty ring, about three inches wide, which -the Dean lately found when excavating on the site of -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s tomb—it may be that of the smith’s -dream. In a case at the other end of the room are -other treasures. Here are coins and a silver penny -of Cnut, found on the north-west of the Cathedral. -Would it could speak and tell us the strange -language it has heard, and the scenes it has witnessed -as it passed about among churls, thanes, and -monks! Here is a case of relics found in “Rufus’s” -tomb, containing some of the seven braids of Norman -pattern which were found in it. One is well preserved. -How exquisitely delicate! It is not a -quarter of an inch in width. They embroidered -finely then, and we hear that the young swells of the -period were almost effeminate in their attire. Silken -robes with gold borders descending to the feet must -have looked quite “Celestial.”</p> - -<p>We emerged from the Cathedral by the south -door. The green sward before us did not exist -before Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s time, as the space was filled -by a “garth” surrounded with cloisters. The inferiority -of the ornamentation of the Cathedral on this -side when compared with the other is due to the junction -with these buildings. Bishop Horne destroyed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> -them, because he wished to be in keeping with the -times. Cromwell demolished nine prebendal houses -and the deanery.</p> - -<p>We now passed through the tunnel at the extremity -of the south transept, and proceeding beyond -the eastern end of the Cathedral saw a wall in front -of us bounding the precincts, and in it a small arch -now filled up. Through this we fancy we can see the -piquant figure of Nell Gwynne passing, for it is said -to have been made to enable her to have access to -the Deanery, where Charles was wont to stay. When -Ken was a prebendary here he stoutly refused to give -up his house to her, and it is one of many instances -of Charles’ good humour that when the bishopric of -Bath and Wells fell vacant, he appointed “the good -little man who refused his lodging to poor Nell.” -There was a small building (long removed) put up for -her to the south of the Deanery, called Nell Gwynne’s -Tower, but she had a house through the arch above -mentioned. Until lately its broad staircases were -the admiration of the people in Colebrook Street, -but it has disappeared within the last few years, and -its site is occupied by an establishment of chimney -sweeps! Thus:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Golden lads and lasses must</div> - <div class="p_line">Like chimney-sweepers come to dust.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></p> -<p>Returning to the cloisters’ site we observe on the -east some ruinous remains of the chapter-house. It -was twenty-five or thirty feet wide by twice that in -length, an ancient form which existed before the -more beautiful circular chapter-houses were adopted.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_deanery" id="image_deanery"><img src="images/deanery.jpg" alt="The Deanery" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Deanery - </p> -</div> - -<p>On the south of this stands the Deanery, entered -by three remarkably acute arches of Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s -time. Under these the Dean has placed, for the -benefit of the public, some of the Roman tesselated -pavement found in 1880 in Dome Alley. The wayfarer -can also see in the red-brick wing on the east -the handsome Perpendicular window which once stood -at the end of the prior’s hall. The Deanery has been -almost entirely built inside this hall. It may surprise -some to hear that this magnificent building, -dating from 1460, still exists in a perfect state. Of -the rooms constructed in it the largest is the drawing-room, -thirty feet long and fourteen high, with old -mullioned and trefoil-headed windows. The height of -the hall was about forty feet, and the length nearly -seventy. In the bedrooms the carved roof timbers -and corbels, with heads cut on them, are in wonderful -preservation. The wing of red brick, of which -I have spoken, was built for Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s accommodation; -and in his time the Deanery staircase seems to -have been constructed, where there was formerly a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> -courtyard in the house. The prior’s hall could be -easily restored, and if the work were effected in the -time of the present dean, it would form a suitable -memorial of the taste and learning of that eminent -antiquary.</p> - -<p>Evelyn records an edifying conversation which took -place in this house when he was here shortly after the -death of Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> James was then here:—</p> - -<p>“His Majesty was talking with the bishop concerning -miracles and the Saludadors in Spain, who -would creep into heated ovens without hurt. His -Majesty said he doubted about miracles. The bishop -added a miracle wrought in Winchester to his certain -knowledge—a poor miserably sick and decrepit child -(long kept unbaptized) recovered immediately after -baptism—as also the salutary effect of King Charles’ -blood in healing one that was blind. They then -spoke of second sight. The King spoke of relics -which had effected cures, especially a piece of our -Saviour’s Cross, which had healed a gentleman’s -rotten nose by only touching. The bishop blessed -the King for insisting on having the negroes in the -plantations christened.”</p> - -<p>The Deanery faces the Close, which formerly had -the pleasant name of “Mirabel,” and we crossed it to -the Pilgrims’ Hall.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ornaments.</div> - -<p>The northern part of this building is now the -dean’s stable—the form of it can therefore be well -seen. The commencement of the massive beams -supporting the roof is visible in the lower part of the -stable, while in the loft the arches themselves remain -adorned with heads. These carvings are much -injured by time—one of the faces seems to represent -a nun or priest, and another with a curly beard, perhaps -a king. This woodwork dates from 1280, and -we hope its fine effect was appreciated by the -travellers who occupied and had fires lit in it. The -other half of the building is in the adjoining house -(Canon Durst’s) where the beams are still visible, but -without carving. The latter residence was built by -Warden Nicholas about two hundred years ago, and -has over the staircase some fine festoons of large -flowers in stucco.</p> - -<p>Crossing over to the western side of the precincts -we find <abbr title="Number">No.</abbr> 10 to be an old thirteenth-century building, -said to have been part of the convent refectory.<a name="Anchor_92" id="Anchor_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 92.">[92]</a> -Beneath it there is still a kitchen, a grand hall with -three round pillars and a groined roof. The massive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> -oak dresser-board remains resting on two carved stone -supports. Though worked almost into holes, its -hardness has preserved it to be a curious relic. When -Richard Cœur de Lion returned from his foreign -imprisonment, the grand coronation dinner was here -prepared for him.<a name="Anchor_93" id="Anchor_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 93.">[93]</a></p> - -<p>“There must have been then great commotion -in this hall, and considerable execution,” said Mr. -Hertford, “if the culinary work in those days -approached that of the ‘kokery’ in the days of -Richard <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, with all its ornamental devices.”</p> - -<p>“Let us dream on,” I replied; “but good authorities -consider that this ground-floor was only made a -kitchen in the seventeenth century; and that these -buildings of the monastery did not form part of the -Refectory, though close to its site.”</p> - -<p>By the kindness of Miss Heberden we were allowed -to inspect this interesting house, and having viewed -the kitchen, ascended by a fine old oak staircase to a -spacious room, now used as a bedroom, lined with -that small square panelling which dates from the -seventeenth century. Here are long, low, many-mullioned -windows, with stained glass, representing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> -arms of Fox, Wykeham, and others. Over the -mantel-piece is an elaborate piece of oak carving. -In the south gable end there is a beautiful rose -window, traces of a larger one, and of the original -entrance—the present door being in an old window. -On the east are Early English windows.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Dome Alley.</div> - -<p>Close to this house there is a road running westward. -This is Dome Alley. On either side of it -stand red brick houses, some two hundred years old, -half concealed in luxuriant ivy. We observed grapes -and other ornamental designs on the leaden pipes; -on the right hand side the “Rose and Crown,” and -on the left the “Cross Keys.” It appears that emblematic -ornaments representing the Church and -King went alternately along the fronts of the -houses.</p> - -<p>“I suppose the ‘Rose and Crown’ represented the -English monarchy?” said Miss Hertford.</p> - -<p>“The rose,” I replied, “was an ancient emblem of -England; some have supposed the name Albion -came not from the chalk cliffs, but from the white -rose which flowers freely over the country.”</p> - -<p>Adjoining the Close gateway we observed a large -building with gables of “timber-crossed antiquity,” -and found that beneath them was an apartment -where the bishop’s “Cheyney” Court was held.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span> -Here are a curious old beam in the ceiling, and the -royal arms, which were over the judge. This was -the Court for the Soke, the prison of which we had -already seen. Old men remember the last case tried -here—a corn dispute from West Meon. The judge -sat on the side near the porter’s lodge. The overhanging -gables may be earlier than Elizabeth; the rooms -beneath them have been used for Cathedral purposes.</p> - -<p>From this point we made a little excursion, passing -under Kingsgate, with its chapel and ancient doors, -into Kingsgate Street to look at the red-brick gables -of Mr. Toye’s house—dating from about 1600. About -seven years ago some excavations were made through -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Swithun’s Street, the Kingsgate, and Kingsgate -Street, which brought to light the stratum of a road -at a depth of five feet. This must have belonged to -some epoch of considerable civilization, perhaps even -to that of Alfred and the saint who gave the name. -The floor of the porter’s lodge at the Close Gate is -three steps below the present surface.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Monks’ Fare.</div> - -<p>Hence we retraced our steps through the precincts; -and here, as we stand on the ground for centuries -trodden by religious men whose “good deeds have -been interred with their bones,” let me call attention -to the little that remains concerning them, if it be -merely their domestic arrangements. Dean Kitchin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> -has with great perseverance and success deciphered -a roll of regulations for the monastery in the fourteenth -century, which had been rendered indistinct by -the thumbing of many monks, and by a libation of -their beer. Here we find directions as to dietary. -The prior was to provide beer, bread, salt, wine, -butter, and cheese. Nearly every day there was to -be a large maynard of cheese (32 lbs.), and the -anniversary of the deposition of the body of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun was to be honoured with an additional -cheese, so that the monks of Hyde as well of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun might celebrate the day; and on the Translation -of the saint’s body sufficient cheese was to -be provided for those monks and other religious and -lay people. The cheese was to be really good, if not -it was to be returned. Psalm singing was regarded as -thirsty work. The precentor and his men were to have -a puncard (cask) of ale every Saturday, and another -to cheer them whenever they sang the melancholy -“Placebo,” or funeral service. They were to have a -pitcher of wine as well as a puncard of good ale -whenever they did the great O. At first we might -suppose that this was synonymous with “doing the -heavy,” but the dean tells us that, on the contrary, it -generally meant doing nothing at all. But here it -signified singing before the great festivals certain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> -short prayers, beginning with “O,” the first of which -was “O Sapientia.” On the Deposition of the body -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Æthelwold, the keeper of the refectory was to -carry round at dinner time the “Cup of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Æthelwold,” -first to the brethren in the refectory, then into -the infirmary to the sick, and then to the table of -the bled (a considerable number), and finally to the -prior and such honoured guests as were with him. -It is said that they were all to kiss the goblet; but -we should have thought that the old conventuals -would scarcely have expressed such sentiments as—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Drink to me only with thine eyes,</div> - <div class="p_line_i2">And I will pledge with mine,</div> - <div class="p_line">Or leave a kiss within the cup,</div> - <div class="p_line_i2">And I’ll not ask for wine.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">Moreover a pitcher of wine was to accompany the -cup which apparently was exhausted before the end -of the ceremony. The refectorarius was to have a -second pitcher for himself, and we might suppose he -wrote this order, for he spells the word in a very -hickupy manner, “pichicherum.”</p> - -<p>Wykeham found the monastery in a disorderly -state. Some of the monks were guilty of grave -irregularities. He gave them strict statutes. Wearing -ornaments was forbidden, and also hunting.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Hunting!” exclaimed Mr. Hertford. “How I -should like to have seen them flying along in their -gowns. Think of the jumps!”</p> - -<p>“Wykeham did not like the sight,” I replied; “it -was, I suppose, not an uncommon one, for we find in -Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s reign complaints that the dogs of the -Abbot of Hyde and Abbess of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Mary’s were committing -depredations in the King’s forests.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Swithun’s Tomb.</div> - -<p>Hence we made for the north side of the Cathedral, -where we passed through the iron gate to walk on the -grass. Close to the Cathedral on the north-west near -a water drain, I observed that the ground had been -recently moved, and the sod was broken, revealing a -piece of wall. This was, in fact, the site where <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun had by his own desire been humbly buried, -“so that the sun might not shine upon him.” Since the -translation of his body the earth here had not been -moved until two years ago, when in digging, several -coffins of chalk and stone were found with bones, -and also the mysterious ring already mentioned.</p> - -<p>Proceeding towards the east we noticed the doorway -into the north transept by which the pilgrims -entered to have their squint through the grille gate. -Beyond the north transept another cut in the grass -showed a wall of great solidity—probably part of the -foundations of the “New Minster,” whose monks<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> -moved to Hyde. This wall, lately discovered, was -traced northwards to a point where a stone has been -placed in the grass, and two other stones show the -building was square. The old Saxon church might -have been here—some fragments stood above ground -in the beginning of the last century.</p> - -<p>We here saw close to us a pointed arch standing -alone. It formerly led to some of the prior’s premises. -To the north of it I saw a line of small, -dilapidated houses, bearing the pretentious name of -“Paternoster Row,” which, I fear, does not always -awaken religious feelings in the hearts of authors. -Some of these dwellings were very old, and boasted -a little external ornamentation. In the doorway of -one of them sat an aged woman sunning herself. -Her features were finely chiselled, and she had a -profusion of white glossy hair. She must have been -handsome when young, and was still</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Bearing through winter</div> - <div class="p_line">The joys of the spring.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>I asked her if she could tell us the age of her -house.</p> - -<p>“No, I cannot, sir,” she replied,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> “but it must be -very old from the way it is built. There are five -doors to this room. Pray walk in.”</p> - -<p>We complied, and found a very neat little apartment -with tables covered with ornaments, and a brave -show of glass. There was a beam across the ceiling, -which I could touch with my hand.</p> - -<p>“You can see at the back how old the houses are. -Some of the cottages in the corner have lately been -taken down,” she added.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bourne.</div> - -<p>We passed with her out of the back door, and saw -some very dilapidated tiled gables. What surprised -me most was to find that a clear stream of water, -about a yard wide, flowed under these houses. This, -then, was the “fishful” rivulet of Æthelwold, the -Lourtebourne, which he brought from Headbourne -Worthy (by a lower channel, I think, than that by the -Nuns’ Walk), to cleanse and refresh the monastery.<a name="Anchor_94" id="Anchor_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 94.">[94]</a> -It was covered here with tombstones. I crossed by -one, taken of course from the neighbouring graveyard, -which commemorated some of the Henley family -who lived in the seventeenth century. Stones of this -kind, as well as monoliths, are utilized here, for stone -is scarce about Winchester. The flight of stairs up -to Morestead Church, which stands above the road -two or three miles from this is formed of tombstones.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span></p> -<p>“I hope that they have been steps to heaven in -every sense,” said Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>We left the little dwelling very favourably impressed -with the old lady, and were surprised and -sorry when we heard that she was obliged to be in -receipt of parish relief.<a name="Anchor_95" id="Anchor_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 95.">[95]</a></p> - -<p>Passing by Bishop Morley’s almshouses for matrons -we regained the High Street, and we now proposed -to make a circuit to look at the streets on the other -side.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Decay.</div> - -<p>Winchester declined greatly in Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s -time, and Edward <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr> removed the royal residence to -London, and although at Wykeham’s solicitation -Edward <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> made it one of the chief wool marts -in England, he added another disappointment when -he removed the “staple” to Calais. From a dismal -complaint presented to Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr> by the inhabitants, -it would appear that the greater part of the town was -then almost a heap of ruins. It states that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> -“<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">Desolation of the saide powere Citee is so grete -and yerelye fallyng for there is such decaye that -withowte graciose comforte of the kynge oure -Soweraigne Lord the Maire and the Bailiffs must -of necessitee cesse to delyver uppe the citee and -the keyes into the Kynges Handes.</span>” Seventeen -parish churches and 997 houses were void, and -within eighty years Jewry Street had fallen from -eighty houses to two, Fleshmonger Street from 140 -to two, Colebroke Street from 160 to sixteen, Calpe -Street from 100 to six, Gold Street (Southgate -Street) from 140 to eight, Gar Street from 100 to -none. In its palmy days, soon after the Conquest, -the city extended to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross, Wyke, Worthy, and -Magdalen Hill, and in Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s reign the population -was about 20,000, but so greatly did it -decrease that all the progress of this century has -only just brought it back to that number. It is -said that there were once 173 churches and chapels -here, probably an over-statement.</p> - -<p>In Edward <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s time there were 44, among them -All Saints in Vineis,<a name="Anchor_96" id="Anchor_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 96.">[96]</a> <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Nicholas extra Pisces, -<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Martin’s in Fosseto, and <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s in Macellis. -Now there are eight; Bishop Fox disestablished -many because there were no funds to sustain the -clergy.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_penthouse" id="image_penthouse"><img src="images/penthouse.jpg" alt="The Penthouse" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Penthouse. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Proceeding up the High Street, we crossed into <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Peter’s Street by “God Begot” House. This was a -fashionable quarter in the Stuart days. The Royal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span> -Hotel stands on a site where was a nunnery twenty -years since. We come to the office of the Probate -Court, a new looking building, which has old walls. -At the south side of it we see a leaden pipe with E.G. -1684, on it—supposed to stand for Eleanor Gwynne. -An old staircase remains at the top of this house. -The original building was much larger, the centre -has been taken down, but the other wing remains. -We may gain some idea of how handsome it once -was by looking at the next ivy-mantled mansion—a -structure of about the same date, with a fine staircase.</p> - -<p>We now come to the Roman Catholic Chapel, and -examine the arched entrance—the only relic remaining -of Magdalen Hospital, founded 1174. In the -porch I called attention to the “Druidical” stone.</p> - -<p>“But some say that the monoliths in this Itchen -valley have more connection with drifts than with -Druids,” observed Mr. Hertford.</p> - -<p>“Yes, and take away the poor things’ character,” -I replied. “Why should we try to dive into the mud -and gravel that lie beneath our fancies?”</p> - -<p>Close by, standing back in a garden, is the “White -House,” which is also of Stuart date, and has a handsome -staircase and panelled room. All these houses -were probably occupied by Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>’s courtiers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> -Milner says that the Duchess of Portsmouth had a -house at the south end of this street.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Middle Brooks.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_middle" id="image_middle"><img src="images/middle.jpg" alt="Middle Brook" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Middle Brook. - </p> -</div> - -<p>From the end of Peter’s Street we turned down -the City Road, and passing by “Upper Brooks,” -where there are more monoliths, soon entered, on the -right hand, Middle Brooks—so called from the stream -flowing along it, which in the memory of old people -ran down its centre. Here we came to a remarkable -edifice, built of flints, and of a somewhat “gingerbread” -character—a miniature castle with two towers. -It forms a couple of houses, and the tenant of the nearer -one told us that the building was called the Hermitage. -It is nearly one hundred years old, and formed -out of the materials of Swathling House,<a name="Anchor_97" id="Anchor_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 97.">[97]</a> which -belonged to Mr. Erle, and stood between Winchester -and Southampton. The front room, which we were -invited to enter, is lined with panelling—covered -with paint, I regret to say, for it is of walnut wood—and -in some places adorned with gold and colours. -Round the ceiling there is a “tongue and udder” -moulding, and there is also carving round the door. -The young tenant pointed out to us an old engraving -on canvas, “The Bloody Sentence of Christ,” which, -he said, had been two hundred years in his family.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span> -There was a note beneath it to say it had been taken -from a stone in Vienna.</p> - -<p>Proceeding on towards the High Street we came -to a row of houses with overhanging stories and huge -dark beams. It had a central archway and heavy -oaken door, and seems to have originally formed one -large house. Antiquaries owe a great debt of gratitude -to the owner, Mr. Buckingham, for preserving -this relic of the past when pressure was put upon him -to demolish it. There is much “wattle and dab” -work in the walls, and in an upper front room of the -northernmost house there is herringbone work and -a fine chalk mantelpiece with mouldings and entablature. -Chalk becomes hard from exposure, and will -last almost for ever if protected from the weather. -Cut stone can be seen here in the back wall, and also -in a house beyond the yard fence, whence it has been -conjectured that this was a monastery or important -structure—could it have been connected with the -Franciscan monastery, usually placed in Lower -Brooks? A cannon ball, found two feet below the -floor of one of the back rooms, is in Mr. Buckingham’s -possession. It probably came from the Castle or -Cromwell’s battery.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Coins.</div> - -<p>Before these houses were repaired, two years since, -some of the panelling inside them was beautifully<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> -carved, and there still remains ornamental tracery on -the outside of some of the windows, but much has -been removed. What was more remarkable was the -discovery of numerous coins about the panelling, as -if some of them had accidently slipped behind it. -Among them were a Roman coin and a Spanish, some -leaden coins and medals, and a token of the Corporation -of Southampton made of brass, with three roses -on the obverse.</p> - -<p>On our way back we met an aged man with a light -blue coat and an oblong silver badge, with something -like a shamrock upon it. The wearer of this gay -apparel belonged to “Christ’s Hospital” (1607), near -the Cathedral. The brethren’s house looked as -bright as their coats, with scarlet virginian and blue -clematis.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>As the next day was Sunday, which is no day -for excursions, and we had pretty well explored the -principal part of Winchester, my friends now took -their departure. They said that they had enjoyed -their visit. With me the time had passed rapidly. -I tried to make a favourable impression, and am vain -enough to think I succeeded, especially on one -occasion while Mr. Hertford was deeply studying the -guide-book.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span></p> - -<p>On Sunday morning I felt lonely. I sauntered -down the High Street. There were many young -fellows standing about who had evidently come in -from the country. Some looked very gay, wearing -sunflowers in their buttonholes, and talking to their -sweethearts. This sight made me feel still more -forlorn.</p> - -<p>I went to the invisible Church—I mean <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Lawrence’s—which cannot be seen from the outside. -The sermon pleased me. I remember that the -preacher said: “Some men put on their religion -on Sundays with their best coat, and when the day -is done take off their religion and their coat, and -hang them up until next Sunday.”</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_88" id="Footnote_88"></a><a href="#Anchor_88">[88]</a></td> - <td>The boundaries of Wansborough are given here with much -quaintness and particularity. “From the Stone to the Eden, -from the Eden to the Lent, from the Lent to the great Thorn.... -From the hollow thorn to the hoar stone, from the hoar stone -to the hollow pan.... From the crooked link to the cat-holes, -from the old treestead to the crooked apple-tree.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_89" id="Footnote_89"></a><a href="#Anchor_89">[89]</a></td> - <td>In the possession of the Duke of Devonshire.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_90" id="Footnote_90"></a><a href="#Anchor_90">[90]</a></td> - <td>The Carmelites would not have been pleased with this -representation, as they think the first of their white gowns was -thrown down by Elijah, and the black stripes they wear are to -show where it was singed by the wheels of fire.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_91" id="Footnote_91"></a><a href="#Anchor_91">[91]</a></td> - <td>Tradition said, as late as 1650, that the Domesday Book -was kept in a vault or in a chapel called Domus Dei, in the -Cathedral. If so it was only there just after its compilation. -The earlier Domesday book, or Dombroc, of Alfred, was kept -here or at Wolvesey.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_92" id="Footnote_92"></a><a href="#Anchor_92">[92]</a></td> - <td>The refectory, which was forty feet long, stood on the south-west -of the cloisters. The “vocal” crucifix was at the east end -of it. In 1798 there were, according to Milner, four round-headed -windows in the north wall.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_93" id="Footnote_93"></a><a href="#Anchor_93">[93]</a></td> - <td>There could have been no lack of money on this occasion, -for the King found <abbr title="900000 pounds">£900,000</abbr> in gold and silver besides jewels -in the treasury at Winchester.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_94" id="Footnote_94"></a><a href="#Anchor_94">[94]</a></td> - <td>It passed through the dormitory, cloisters, buttery, malthouse, -kitchen, and quadrangle.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_95" id="Footnote_95"></a><a href="#Anchor_95">[95]</a></td> - <td>In the street just by the back of this house two shells were -found, probably some of Waller’s “granadoes.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_96" id="Footnote_96"></a><a href="#Anchor_96">[96]</a></td> - <td>Winchester was celebrated for its imported and native -wine.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_97" id="Footnote_97"></a><a href="#Anchor_97">[97]</a></td> - <td>In which the celebrated Admiral Lord Hawke died.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div><hr class="chap" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></p> - -<h2>SEVENTH DAY.</h2> - -<p class="summary">Southgate Street — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross — Dr. Lewis — Regulations — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Catherine’s Hill.</p> - -<p>This day I proceeded in the direction of the Hospital -of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross, which is one mile from Winchester. -On my way down Southgate Street I passed, -on my right, the profusely decorated and almost -flamboyant modern Church of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Thomas. It -contains some of the sepulchral slabs of the older -church to that saint, which stood beside the graveyard -on the east side of the road. That building -had some architectural beauties, but had long lapsed -into a state of dilapidation. In Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>’s time -the Sheriff of Southampton was ordered to have an -image of the “Majesty of the Lord” made and -placed beyond the altar in that church.</p> - -<p>A few yards beyond this I passed the site of the old -Southgate, and then came to the “Friary”—the site -upon which the Augustine hermits established themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> -in the thirteenth century. This order is best -known to London men, from Austin Friars in the -City.</p> - -<p>Next I came to “<abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Michael’s,” the rectory of the -parish. Just behind it stands the church, but it has -been rebuilt, and presents nothing of interest except a -round thirteenth-century sun-dial not eight inches wide. -In former times a spring rose just above the church, -and in the winter flooded it on its way down. The -rector keeps the doors of the church always open, and, -like many others, has suffered for his good nature. -A short time since the poor-box was broken open -and robbed, and the only melancholy consolation was, -that there was not much in it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote"><abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross.</div> - -<p>A line of bright villas extends here on the right -side, and I soon reached the graveyard of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Faith’s, -another deceased church. Even in the time of Henry -<abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr> it was in a weakly state, for we find beech trees -given to prop its foundations. The only relic of it -remaining, is the Norman font and bell, which are -preserved at <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_church" id="image_church"><img src="images/church.jpg" alt="Saint Cross" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - The Church of Saint Cross from the Water Meadows. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Here I am now at my destination. I pass -through the village of Sparkford,<a name="Anchor_98" id="Anchor_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 98.">[98]</a> and stand before -the ancient structure founded by Bishop de Blois for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span> -the (much needed) health of his soul and for the -repose of the kings of England. He endowed it from -his private revenues, as well as from gifts of rectories -and from the spoils of Hyde Abbey, which consisted -of 500 pounds weight of silver, 30 marks of gold, and -three crowns of gold, with thorns of gold set with -diamonds. The revenue was originally <abbr title="250 pounds">£250</abbr> a year, -but had risen to <abbr title="300 pounds">£300</abbr> in Wykeham’s time.</p> - -<p>The management of the hospital was originally -delegated to the brethren of the Hospital of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John -of Jerusalem, saving to the Bishop of Winchester -canonical jurisdiction, but Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr> gave the -administration entirely into the hands of the bishops.</p> - -<p>On the tower over the archway are four heads—those -of Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>, “time-honoured” Lancaster, -Beaufort, and Catherine Swinford. Catherine here -finds herself in good company. She was, as most -know, a pretty governess, whom John of Gaunt’s wife -had the temerity to engage, with the result that -her husband had several natural children, among -them Cardinal Beaufort. Over these heads are three -canopied niches for statues—the idea being evidently -taken from those on the tower of the College. In -the centre was the Virgin, and by her side the -Cardinal; but we observe that though he is on his -knees he is too grand to take off his hat to her.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> -When the figure of the Virgin fell, some years since, -it was not replaced.</p> - -<p>How well I remember the day when I first stood -before this gateway as a tired wayfarer, and demanded -the pilgrim’s right. I was promptly provided -with half a pint of fair small beer and half a slice of -bread. I observed that the drinking-horn was set in -silver, and, in answer to a question, was informed—</p> - -<p>“Two of the cups have been set in silver to commemorate -the fact that the Prince of Wales and -Crown Prince of Germany drank out of them. The -other cups are not set; we keep these for the upper -classes.”</p> - -<p>I had not then heard of the fate of the “Hampshire -Grenadier,” and much cheered by the refreshment and -the fragrance of royalty, marched into the courtyard, -and admired the long row of chimneys—twenty feet -high—made thus when they first succeeded holes in -the roof. I wished I could see the thatch that the -chapel had for two hundred years. Seeing an old -gownsman standing about I accosted him, and asked -if he would be so good as to show me over the hospital.</p> - -<p>“Hospital!” he replied, sharply.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> “There ain’t no -hospital here. That’s where everybody makes a mistake. -When any of the brethren are ill we have to -send to Winchester for a doctor.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_beaufort" id="image_beaufort"><img src="images/beaufort.jpg" alt="Beaufort Tower, Saint Cross" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Beaufort Tower, Saint Cross. - </p> -</div> - -<p>“Well—the institution” I substituted.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span></p> - -<p>He seemed satisfied with the correction. I found -that there were several persons waiting to be conducted, -and that our guide was a “character.” He -was deaf, his speech was indistinct from the loss of -teeth, and he in every respect came up to the requisite -qualification of being decayed.</p> - -<p>The original foundation was for the board and -lodging of thirteen men, poor and infirm, and for -receiving daily at dinner a hundred men<a name="Anchor_99" id="Anchor_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 99.">[99]</a>—the most -indigent that could be found—who were to be allowed -to carry away the remains of their food and beer.</p> - -<p>“Walk this way,” said our guide, hobbling on in -front of us. “Oh! I won’t go too fast for you.”</p> - -<p>He led us into the church, where we gazed up at -rows of Norman zig-zag until we felt quite giddy. -Some think the painting here a little overdone, but it -gives some idea of how the severity of the Norman -style was softened by colours. A few traces of the old -designs are still visible in some places on the walls, -and in À Becket’s Chapel there are remains of a series -depicting the scenes in his life. There is also a large -fresco, even more faded, representing the Descent -from the Cross.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span></p> - -<p>“We have heard,” said an inquiring lady, who -seemed to take a great interest in everything, “that -there is a beautiful triple arch here. Can we see it?”</p> - -<p>“No, ma’am, you cannot,” replied our scrupulous -guide; “but you will be able to do so when we come -to it. This is Major Lowth’s seat,” he added, pointing -to one comfortably cushioned.</p> - -<p>“Who is he?” inquired the lady. “Where do you -say he sits?”</p> - -<p>“Nowhere, ma’am. He does not sit anywhere now. -He is gone to heaven, ma’am—at least, I hope so. -He was one of the trustees.”</p> - -<p>We found the triple arch outside at the back of -the church. It was very pretty—one arch bisecting -another.</p> - -<p>The fourteenth-century stained glass in the windows -particularly attracted my attention. In one, <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> -Swithun appears in a purple robe; in another, De -Blois figures in red and green. In the South Chapel -there is some wood carving of the Italian school, and -very fine; and some other that is certainly of the -British school, and not admirable—names cut on -the desks, one of which dated 1575, shows that chanting -and mischievous habits survived the Reformation.</p> - -<p>Our attention was also drawn to the stone with the -half-obliterated “<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">Have Mynde</span>” on it, and to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span> -window whence the sick witnessed the elevation of -the Host.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Handsome Donation.</div> - -<p>We observed on some of the tiles on the floor -of the church the enigmatical letters, “Z. O.” On -inquiry, we found this apparently cabalistic sign, -was in memory of the munificence of an anonymous -benefactor, who thus signed his letters. About -twenty-five years ago a gentleman came to visit the -hospital, and seeing some men at work in the church, -observed to them that it was a most interesting -building.</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir,” replied one of them; “but it is sadly -out of repair.”</p> - -<p>Shortly afterwards a letter arrived from the Isle -of Wight, telling the Master to go to a certain bank -in Winchester, and he would receive <abbr title="500 pounds">£500</abbr> from Z. O. -And soon <abbr title="250 pounds">£250</abbr> came in the same way. Many were -the surmises as to who was the mysterious donor; -some thought from certain indications that he was -one of the royal family.</p> - -<p>“We want a few more of that sort,” observed our -guide, significantly.</p> - -<p>The church, which is partly paved with fifteenth-century -tiles, contains many sepulchral memorials. -There is a fine brass to the left of the altar to Campeden, -one of the masters and a friend of Wykeham’s.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> -The tomb of Petrus de Sancta Maria, who died in -1295, was opened some time since, and the features -were found perfect; but as has happened in other -cases, crumbled into dust in sight of those present. -Wood says there was an old cross here, dated 1450, -to John Newles, “<span lang="enm" xml:lang="enm">squyer and servant more than xxx -yere unto Harry Beauford, bishop and cardinal, whose -soulys God convey to his Mother dere unto the bliss -of Heaven</span>.”</p> - -<p>In front of the altar there is a large slab to William -Lewis. He was elected from Hart Hall at Oxford -to the Society of Oriel, in 1608, and made provost by -the favour of Welshmen. There are conflicting statements -about his character. Cromwell’s party say that -his amours were so extraordinary that he was obliged -to fly from the country to escape the officers of -justice; but the Royalists maintain that he was an -excellent man, learned in theology, who went abroad -to serve the King. Anthony Wood, in his “<cite class="plain" lang="la" xml:lang="la">Fasti -Oxonienses</cite>,” says that “he was made a <abbr title="Doctor of Divinity">D.D.</abbr> -by command of the King.” He went as Buckingham’s -chaplain—with a sinecure office, I should think—to -the siege of Rochelle, of which he wrote an -account. He was Master of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross; but on the -defeat of Charles was succeeded by Lisle the regicide, -who sat in the Long Parliament for Winchester.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span></p> - -<p>Lisle’s widow was beheaded in the Market Place in -Winchester, for harbouring fugitives from Sedgemoor.<a name="Anchor_100" id="Anchor_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 100.">[100]</a> -After his promotion to the Upper House, another -regicide, Cooke, became Master, and after his execution, -Lewis returned and ended his life here in peace.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hall of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross.</div> - -<p>Our guide now directed us to the hall—built in 1440—and -here called attention to the Minstrels’ Gallery, -the fine original roof, the mysterious triptych painting, -and the central hearth whence in olden times -the smoke ascended through a hole in the roof. This -aperture was long preserved, and on “gaudy days”—of -which there are five in the year—a charcoal fire is -still lit there for “Auld Lang Syne.” On those days -there is a grand roast of half an ox, minus the leg, -and each man has five pounds of meat, a mince-pie, -and plum pudding.</p> - -<p>“And who sits in that chair?” asked the inquiring -lady, indicating the principal one at the table.</p> - -<p>“Nobody, ma’am,” he replied, “at present. But on -gaudy days the Master sits in it.”</p> - -<p>“Is he one of the brethren?”</p> - -<p>“God bless your soul, no, ma’am,” he returned;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span> -“he’s a minister of the gospel.”</p> - -<p>We were shown Cardinal Beaufort’s rude wooden -salt-cellars and candlesticks, and in the kitchen his -battered round pewter dish, which gave us no great -idea of his splendour; but probably he was doing the -humble when he stayed here.</p> - -<p>Thence we went over to the eastern side of the -quadrangle, where there is a cloister supporting some -decayed apartments—perhaps erected by De Blois. -Here is a table of Purbeck marble, said to have been -used in the Castle, and which as it is not round -enough for King Arthur, is usually attributed to -King Stephen.</p> - -<p>“Would you like to see the nunnery?” inquired -our guide.</p> - -<p>We were not aware that there was one, but found -that it consisted of some upper rooms for three nurses. -On asking what there was to see in it, and being told, -“Well! there is a floor,” none of us felt very enthusiastic -about it. And so I left this interesting spot—not -to return for fifteen years. Farewell, most conscientious -of guides! I am afraid, alas! that thou art -“not sitting anywhere now.” I hope thou too art in -heaven.</p> - -<p>On this, my next visit, our conductor was a man -of the modern school, intelligent and energetic, but -not so humorous. I went the same round, and heard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span> -little more—except that an American gentleman, who -had been two months in England studying stained -glass, had heard of the ancient windows here just -as he was going on board the steamer to return, had -retraced his steps, and said when he saw them that -he was well repaid for his journey. Our guide also -spoke of the silver cross the brethren wear. It seems -when any one of them dies it is put on a red velvet -cushion, which is laid on his breast in the coffin, -and then before burial it is taken off and the Master -fastens it to the gown of the next brother. Instances -have been known where, by mistake, the cross has -been left on the corpse, and there was a brother who -was now wearing one which had been exhumed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Brew.</div> - -<p>Only when we came to look at the black jacks and -talk of the beer was our informant slightly at fault. -The founder, thinking that his bedesmen would be -thirsty souls, ordered each to have daily with his meat -and salad mortrell (bread and milk) a gallon and a -half of good small beer. Considering this and the -free drinks given at the lodge—now reduced to two -gallons a day—we may suppose that brewing was a -principal industry in the hospital. No beer is now -made here or supplied to the men. Our guide told -us that about seven years ago the brethren’s wives -lived in the village, and that a question was asked,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span> -which they preferred—their beer or their wives. To -some this might have been puzzling; but the gallant -Knights of <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross answered without hesitation -in favour of their better halves. This raised them -greatly in my estimation; but it appears that, in -truth, their wives, or in default of them, housekeepers, -have been allowed to live here as far back as most -people can remember, and the allowance of beer -was stopped, because some of the men took too -much of it, and others preferred stronger stuff, being -of the monkish opinion that—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container" lang="la" xml:lang="la"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Drinkere stalum</div> - <div class="p_line">Non fecit malum”—</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">and exchanged it in the village. So they were glad -to take money instead.</p> - -<p>The greater part of the building here is due to -Cardinal Beaufort—the gateway, hall, master’s house, -and all the lodgings on the west side. He called the -hospital the “Almshouse of Noble Poverty,” and -provided an endowment by which some brethren who -had “seen better days” should be added to the -thirteen of the De Blois foundation. A distinction -between the two classes is kept up, the Beaufort -men wearing red gowns, but there are very few of -them. I heard that a clergyman was here a few<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> -years since, but resigned his place. Provision was -made for the maintenance of eleven servants and -fourteen horses. The present revenue is about <abbr title="6000 pounds">£6,000</abbr> -a year.<a name="Anchor_101" id="Anchor_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 101.">[101]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote"><abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Catherine’s Hill.</div> - -<p>On leaving the hospital, instead of returning as I -came, I went to the right through a gate and over a -stream; and, following a northerly path across the -fields by the engine house, crossed the Itchen to <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> -Catherine’s Hill, which I saw rising close to me. -There was formerly a chapel on it, the tower of which -was blown down in 1268, but the building was there -in Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_catherine" id="image_catherine"><img src="images/catherine.jpg" alt="St. Catharine’s Hill from St. Cross" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Catharine’s Hill from <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Cross. - </p> -</div> - -<p>A splendid view opened as I climbed the height. -On the summit I inspected the mismaze. It is -fancifully said to have been cut by the boy who -wrote “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Dulce Domum</span>.” But when we consider the -Cerne Giant and the White Horse we shall consider -it due to the vicinity of the monastery, and made -by the monks for amusement or penance. It is not a -labyrinth properly so-called, because if you enter at -one end you cannot fail to reach the other. I saw -some children, who had been playing “touch wood” -in the neighbouring clump of pines, walking through -it, and they said it could be done in four minutes.</p> - -<p>Here I stand within a magic circle—a line of circumvallation -which transports me to a past when -there was a wild population here that threw up -intrenchments to protect themselves and their cattle -from attack. The large circuit of this embankment -shows that the habitations around the neighbourhood -were not sparse; for we may be sure that when they -had to throw up the earth with their hands, they -would not make it larger than necessary, and when -they lived much on game they did not require great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span> -space for cattle. These remains are especially interesting -in connection with the many “Druidical” -monoliths found about this part of the country.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Origin of Winchester.</div> - -<p>We may say that this was the original site of -Winchester. When the people became powerful and -more constantly centralized, they settled on the lower -ground, as at Bristol and Salisbury. Some twenty -miles to the south-east there is a fortified height -known as “Old Winchester hill,” and so-called from a -tradition that the town at first stood upon its summit.</p> - -<p>While descending on the turf among the harebells -(hairbells?) I found a specimen of the blue gentian. -What a study is every flower—how beautifully is it -finished inside and outside! I thought of the “lilies -of the field.” Solomon and his array! How would -he have looked with his robes reversed?</p> - -<p>I made my way to the river, and walked along it -in a path fringed with golden ragwort, then passed -through the millyard, crossed the river, and continued -along its margin till I reached the cottage gardens, -and emerged close to the bridge at the end of High -Street.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_98" id="Footnote_98"></a><a href="#Anchor_98">[98]</a></td> - <td>Best known to many for the scene in “<cite class="plain">Henry Dunbar</cite>.”</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_99" id="Footnote_99"></a><a href="#Anchor_99">[99]</a></td> - <td>The “Hundred Mennes Hall” is now used as a barn.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_100" id="Footnote_100"></a><a href="#Anchor_100">[100]</a></td> - <td>She is said to have been “a respectable lady.” The -jury hesitated, but Jeffreys insisted. James was swift upon -rebels. He wanted his brother Charles to hang Milton.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_101" id="Footnote_101"></a><a href="#Anchor_101">[101]</a></td> - <td>On the walls are the names of several masters. R. Buteshall -was master in 1346. Roger Sherborne and Henry Compton -both became bishops.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span></p> - -<h2>EIGHTH AND FOLLOWING DAYS.</h2> - -<p class="summary">Ancient Britons — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> John’s Church — Magdalen -Hospital — Punchbowl — Chilcombe — <abbr title="Saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s -Cheesehill — Twyford — Monoliths — Brambridge -Avenue — Otterbourne — Compton — “Oliver’s Battery” — Hursley — Tomb of -Keble — Merdon Castle — Farley Mount — The Hampage Oak — Tichborne.</p> - -<p>Chilcombe!—in the <cite class="plain">Domesday Book</cite> Ciltecumbe—what -a deliciously Celtic name! It reminds us of -the time when “Gwent” also was only a group of -beehive huts. We can see such in Cornwall at the -present day.</p> - -<p>“Gwent” (whence <span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Venta Belgarum</span><a name="Anchor_102" id="Anchor_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 102.">[102]</a> and Winchester) -signified an opening. A river beneath a -grassy hill was a cheering sight to the early inhabitant -of Britain. The chalk downs here afforded a clear -expanse by which he could reach the interior of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span> -country without any fear of losing his way among -trees or being attacked by wild beasts. The forests -then abounded with large stags, wolves, bears, and -wild oxen.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Itchen.</div> - -<p>No doubt the choice of the site was partly determined -by the convenience of the Itchen. On its -breast we see successively the canoes and coracles of -the Britons, the galleys of the Romans, and the royal -ships of the Saxons and Danes, with their many -oars, pictured sails, and formidable figure-heads. -In the time of the Normans it became more crowded, -and without it the Cathedral could not have been -built, as the stone came from quarries in the Isle -of Wight. Even Wykeham obtained materials from -this source, and the river must have presented a busy -scene in the palmy days of the fair, when merchandise -was arriving from distant shores. The river was -afterwards disused, obstructed apparently by the -construction of mills, for when the city was in a -dilapidated condition in Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s time, the -Mayor and Corporation suggested that the mills -should be “pulled up, so that barges might come -to the city as formerly.” In recent times a canal -has been made, called “the navigable Itchen,” a name -which, as we look at its silent and deserted course, -seems to have a sound of mockery.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span></p> - -<p>Chilcombe is a large parish, and reaches nearly -into Winchester. Cynegils in the seventh century -gave it to the monastery. But on the high ground -above Chilcombe Lodge, the present parsonage, was -lately found a curiosity which carries back our retrospect -far beyond all such modern history. In sinking -a well an aërolite was discovered imbedded forty feet -in the chalk! Can we imagine the time when this -bolt fell hissing into the sea, and lodged upon some -of the shellfish, whose remains formed these white -rocks? The “everlasting” hills did not then exist, -and the most important inhabitants of the earth were -huge and hideous lizards. Does the thought occur -to us that in the cycles of ages the time may return</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“When all the bloomy flush of life is fled”?—</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">if it does let us banish it.</p> - -<p>Crossing Soke Bridge and passing Water Lane I -came, on the same side, to St. John’s Street. Close -to this, on the slope of St. Giles’ hill was the -original school where Alfred was instructed. We -find, in the <cite class="plain">Close Rolls</cite>, King John ordered William -of Cornhill, to make one “Jeffery” attend school -at Winchester, and provide him with necessaries for -the purpose.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">St. John’s.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_john" id="image_john"><img src="images/john.jpg" alt="St John’s from a Cottage Garden" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - St John’s from a Cottage Garden - </p> -</div> - -<p>Proceeding along the street I came to the Church<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span> -of St. John. It has no chancel, and is nearly square—would -have been perfectly so, only for the road -which passes it. This was the old Roman road from -Canterbury, and this was the first church pilgrims -came to in the suburbs of Winchester, hence we find -a Decorated niche outside the east wall in which stood -a figure of the Virgin for their benefit. Inside the -church are many little niches, a very pretty triple one -has just been discovered near the altar. There are -also two “squints.” The tower, which may be partly -Saxon, is a mass of chalk six feet thick. There were -at one time some frescoes on the north wall, in which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> -the devil was a principal character, but for more than -twenty years they have been decently plastered up, -and there is nothing now to offend the eyes of the -worshipper unless it be the large crucifix over the -rood screen. A new stained east window has lately -been inserted in memory of a curate who died here -at the early age of twenty-five. He took great -interest in the church, and bravely continued his -work until within four months of his death. The -centre of the window contains what I was told was a -good likeness of him.<a name="Anchor_103" id="Anchor_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 103.">[103]</a></p> - -<p>Near the end of the street I came to an ancient -wooden cottage with heavy beams, which had -formerly been the “Blue Ball.” Opposite stands -“St. John’s Croft,” a large red-brick edifice, adorned -with wood-carving on its porch, and with some cut -stone bosses from Magdalen Hospital. A few yards -behind this there is a row of four brick-and-tile cottages—the -last remains of that celebrated foundation.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Morn Hill.</div> - -<p>Passing in front of St. John’s Croft I came to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span> -pathway on a bank beside the high road, and soon, as I -proceeded up the hill, a fine view opened on the left -over the valley and the rich fields through which -the Itchen meanders—and then the country on the -right became visible, and I reached a breezy down -spangled with harebells and eyebright. Here I -came to Victoria Hospital; and on the right hand, -about a hundred yards this side of the farmhouse -beyond it, stood the Magdalen (“Morn”) Leper Hospital. -I am able to speak with certainty, for a lady -told me that an old gentleman, who died twenty -years ago, pointed out the spot to her and showed -her some tiles that had fallen from the roof. A well -was lately found in the field opposite. I am sorry to -say that this establishment was badly treated in 1643 -by the Royalist soldiers, who burned the gates and -consumed the provisions.</p> - -<p>A picture of the four pointed arches and lofty -windows which stood here at the end of the last -century can be seen in the Winchester Museum. It -is interesting now that every vestige of this hospital -has disappeared—except the archway in the Roman -Catholic Chapel in St. Peter’s Street—to read in the -<cite class="plain">Harleian Manuscripts</cite> (328) of the ornaments it once -possessed—the silver pix and cups, the vestments and -books, the green carpet powdered with birds and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> -roses, the Spanish cloth, given by William of Basing, -and the standards to be carried on Rogation days. -This hospital was founded in 1174 by Bishop Toclyve, -whose signature to a document is a great curiosity in -the British Museum. The ruins were removed at the -beginning of this century, as they had become an -harbour for mendicants not belonging to religious -orders.</p> - -<p>The distance is about a mile and a half from the -Butter Cross, and this seems to have been thought -anciently, as it is now, a safe position for the location -of infectious and contagious diseases.</p> - -<p>Returning, and passing the Victoria Hospital a few -hundred yards, I struck right across the downs and -saw on my left five mounds, which brought other sad -memories of disease, for here the bodies of those who -died of the plague were thrown into pits. It was on -these downs that King John hypocritically fell down -on his knees before the Pope’s prelates. Here they, -weeping, raised him up, and all proceeded to the -Cathedral singing the Fiftieth Psalm.<a name="Anchor_104" id="Anchor_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 104.">[104]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Longwood.</div> - -<p>Looking southwards I saw under me the Petersfield -road, to which I descended, and walked on it right -away for more than a mile to visit the Punchbowl,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> -a circular hollow in the downs, almost capacious -enough for that thirsty Dutchman who drank the -Zuyder Zee. From thence, if I had desired, I might -have marched on for three or four miles to the beautiful -woods of Longwood. I well remember having -once walked through them on a summer evening, -when the sunshine was casting a chequered glow -through the oaks and beeches—such scenes are not -easily forgotten. Lord Northesk still retains the old -family mansion, though a handsome new residence -has been built beside it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Chilcombe.</div> - -<p>On this occasion I was not so enterprising, so -returning nearly to where I took the road, I turned -to the left towards Chilcombe, which I saw lying in -a nook among the hills shaded with large trees. -This hamlet is still nearly as small as it was in the -time of the ancient Britons. After reaching and -passing by the half-dozen cottages which compose it, -the road decreased to a lane, and became steep as I -approached the church. This was truly the “church -in the wilderness.” There was no house near it at -which I could obtain the key, so I had to turn back -to the village. On my way I met some little children -playing, one of whom, a girl of about twelve, regarded -me through her dark eyes with undisguised -curiosity.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Can you tell me who has the key of the church?” -I inquired.</p> - -<p>“The clerk has it,” she replied; “but he’s dead.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_chilcombe" id="image_chilcombe"><img src="images/chilcombe.jpg" alt="Chilcombe Church" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Chilcombe Church. - </p> -</div> - -<p>This answer well-nigh threw me into despair; -but I determined to inquire at some neighbouring -cottages. At one where I applied, the fair occupant -also gave me a vague reply, saying that, “If it’s -anywhere, Mrs. Solomons has it.” I observed that -this little dwelling was in a very decrepit state. The -ceiling, which a tall man might reach, was innocent -of plaster, and made a sad exhibition of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span> “ribs -and trucks.”</p> - -<p>“This seems to be an old house,” I said.</p> - -<p>“Oh yes, sir, very,” she responded. “It has been -for a long time falling down through the chimney,” -she added, pointing to the wide hearth.</p> - -<p>Following her advice, I went to the former parsonage, -close at hand, which I reached under a snow-white -mass of fragrant clematis. There I obtained -what I required and returned to the church.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_tombstone" id="image_tombstone"><img src="images/tombstone.jpg" alt="A Chilcombe Tombstone" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - A CHILCOMBE TOMBSTONE. - </p> -</div> - -<p>This tiny sanctuary has a wooden bellcot for a -tower, and the smallest east window I ever saw,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span> -inserted within the original Norman opening. There -are three Norman arches here, some fifteenth-century -tiles, and an old flat monumental slab, from which all -but a large cross has been worn off by the feet of -generations. And this is all that remains of the nine -churches which once adorned Chilcombe!</p> - -<p>The lane leading to the church gradually dwindles -to a footpath and crosses the downs to Morestead—a -pleasant walk. I met some boys coming -along it, carrying wallets full of nuts, with which the -wayside abounds.</p> - -<p>On my return I diverged to the right along a green -bridle path, and thus made a circuit of the hamlet.</p> - -<p>Before reaching Winchester (two miles) I passed a -large tree standing up quite dead, a piteous skeleton, -shining and bleaching in the sun. It had been struck -with lightning, I was told. I never before saw such -a sight; but in Australia, where the settlers pay the -natives to ring-bark the trees, you may see forests -of them raising up their bare arms to heaven, as if -appealing against the treatment they had received.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_peter" id="image_peter"><img src="images/peter.jpg" alt="Saint Peter Cheesehill" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Saint Peter Cheesehill from above the Station. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Passing Chilcombe Lodge, with its cypresses, I -came to an old inn called “The Brewers Arms,” and -was told that a hostel formerly called “The Drum” -had stood on this site for four hundred years. Close -to it is the church of St. Peter’s Cheesehill. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span> -people call it “Chisel”; it is named from gravel -like the Chesil Beach near Weymouth. The church -is square like St. John’s. It contains some handsome -chalk niches, with heads carved under them, -and there is a curious grating high up in the west -wall for those in the adjoining house to hear the -service.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Twyford.</div> - -<p>A pleasant walk leads from the bridge along the -bank of the river to Twyford—three miles distant—but -I started in that direction through Southgate -Street, which is part of the Southampton Road. After -passing St. Cross and proceeding on for about a half-mile, -I came to a bifurcation and a signpost, and took -the lower road to the left, walking by grassy banks -golden with fleabane. I crossed the Itchen, and -soon a branch of that river—fringed with a line of -wild foliage, purple willow-herb and hemp agrimony. -Then I reached Twyford Lodge, the residence of -Colonel Bates, and farther on took the right-hand -turning to the church. It is modern except the -window, but stands on a ring of prehistoric monoliths, -preserving the old sanctity of the place. The -graveyard is adorned with some magnificent coniferæ, -specimens of the Wellingtonia, deodara, picea -pinsapo, cypress, and cedar; but the pride of the -whole is an immense yew-tree which rises in the centre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span> -in ancient majesty. It is of great girth, and withal -as sound as a bell, and it is cut into the form of one—or, -I might say, of Robinson Crusoe’s umbrella. Go -beneath it and gaze up into its maze of branches—a -wondrous sight!</p> - -<p>On leaving this shrubbery I turned round to the -left, and, had I desired, I could have walked through -“silken grass,” across a couple of fields, to the railway -station, passing by the woods round Shawford Park -(Sir Charles Frederick’s), and over the river, which is -here divided into three parts.<a name="Anchor_105" id="Anchor_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 105.">[105]</a> But I sat down to -rest upon a seat placed by some fairy godmother at -the first bridge, and looked down into the Itchen, -where the long green foliage was waving like the hair -of water nymphs. Does not Tennyson speak of our -life swaying “like those long mosses in the stream”? -I seemed to be looking down into a clear agate and -the liquid murmur was only broken at intervals by -the jumping of a trout.</p> - -<p>Before me lay two elephantine blocks of stone, -brought by some of our unknown predecessors. I -amused myself with conjuring up pictures of the past, -and thinking that here—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Sage beneath the spreading oak,</div> - <div class="p_line">Sat the Druid hoary chief.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span></p> -<p class="noindent">and while I fancied I could still hear his low -chanting, my mind wandered off to reflect that this -neighbourhood is sacred to a real modern “druid.” -There was a celebrated school at Twyford and among -its pupils was Pope. His satiric talent brought, as -usual, disgrace, for he was sent away for writing a -squib on the master, who had become a Roman -Catholic.</p> - -<p>Returning to the church, I regained the high road, -and immediately on my right saw a large red-brick -house, which had an air of old-fashioned importance. -I was anxious to find Shipley House, where -Franklin, as a guest of Bishop Shipley, wrote his -life. I could find no one to inquire from, but soon -a labouring man came along, and I asked him if this -was Shipley House.</p> - -<p>“No, sir,” he replied, “this is Twyford House. -Shipley House is nearly a mile further on.”</p> - -<p>I was surprised to hear this.</p> - -<p>“Is it an old house?” I said.</p> - -<p>“Oh yes, sir—it was built in 1860.”</p> - -<p>This then was not the object of my search, and I -found that the mansion I was looking at was the old -Shipley House.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_twyford" id="image_twyford"><img src="images/twyford.jpg" alt="Twyford" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Twyford. Queen of Hampshire Villages. - </p> -</div> - -<p>Passing by a school on the left, and entering the -street of the little town, I saw in the centre of it a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span> -blacksmith’s shop with another megalith in front of -it. Dean Kitchin has given the great stones, with -which this place abounds, their full weight, and -considers that Twyford may be so called from -Tuesco, the deity we commemorate on Tuesday. -Further on I came to a brewery, evidently not for -small beer, for it had a triumphal arch with a profusion -of embellishments which must irritate the -feelings of good teetotalers. There are besides these -new structures some timber-crossed cottages in the -village, with old-fashioned hollyhocks, blue campanulas, -and masses of phlox. Before leaving,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span> -I may observe, that this “Queen of Hampshire -villages” ought to be in high favour with the fair -sex as many of them have become Young by residing -in it.</p> - -<p>Proceeding straight on into the country, I came -to the Manor farm with several old arches in front -of it, suggestive of a monastery. A little beyond -this is the lodge of the present Shipley House, with -two tall cypresses (Lawsonianæ) in front of it. Then, -coming to another finger-post, I took the beautiful -road to Brambridge,<a name="Anchor_106" id="Anchor_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 106.">[106]</a> overhung on both sides with -trees. And now a long wall of gravel and mortar -skirts my right along Brambridge Park.<a name="Anchor_107" id="Anchor_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 107.">[107]</a> The avenue -here is said to be the finest in Hampshire. It consists -of four rows of lime-trees. The double line on each -side is a study for an artist, the outer branches -drooping down and resting on the ground, while the -inner, being close together, have been drawn up, so -that they rise on either side like the columns of a -cathedral. The house belonged to the Fitzherbert<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span> -family, and it is locally supposed that George <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr> -was privately married in the old chapel attached to it.</p> - -<p>Turning round the park on the right, I again -crossed the river, or rather canal, saw a pretty cascade -caused by the old lock, and soon reached the -little old church of Otterbourne—forsaken and neglected—standing -in the midst of a yard full of -mouldering gravestones. Many a large and handsome -monument—thought much of in its day—is -here entirely concealed in ivy; as completely obscured -and lost to view as those to whose memory -it was erected. Proceeding to the north, I entered -the village of Otterbourne, with its neat new brick -cottages and large green common. In its centre some -children were playing round a large horse-chestnut -tree, whose leaves had been touched by the rosy -fingers of autumn. At the right-hand corner is an -old house of comfortable dimensions, covered with -a variety of climbing plants. This is the quiet village -home of Miss Yonge, the authoress of the “Heir of -Redclyffe.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Compton.</div> - -<p>From this point I regained the Southampton Road, -and in about a mile turned up to the left to visit -Compton, which consists of a few picturesque tiled -cottages. The tiny church stood in a bed of -luxuriant grass. The fine old oak porch was taken<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span> -down by some Vandals fifty years ago, and the -present unsightly one substituted. Lately some of -the parishioners wanted the rector to have a new -door, a request he happily withstood, saying he was -proud of the existing one, which is of great age and -of massive oak. On the lock can be seen the marks -of the axe with which it was rudely shaped. The -entrance arch is Norman, adorned with half-a-dozen -lines of zigzag carving. There is, as at St. Bartholomew’s, -a kind of reflected arch behind it. This -church is an anomaly, inasmuch as it has no foundation; -it merely stands on the chalk, of which the -dressings of the window are also made. Towards -the altar there is on the wall a fresco representing -a bishop with a crozier standing beside the gable of -a church, perhaps intended for the Cathedral. A -stone coffin, containing the skeleton of a giant -measuring six feet to his shoulders, was found here -in front of the altar.</p> - -<p>This church stands only a few hundred yards from -the Southampton Road, by which I returned (2 miles) -to Winchester.</p> - -<p>Now for a round of fourteen miles. Passing -through the Westgate, I turned to the left by the -barracks and crossed the railway cutting, proceeding -on the road which leads toward the magnificent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> -Norman church of Romsey, which is twelve miles -distant. On the left I soon came to the Catholic -Cemetery, with its high wall, built in 1829. It -contains many tombstones whose inscriptions are -worn away by age; one preserved by lying flat -under the turf is to a member of the Tichborne -family, dated 1637. Farther on, upon the right, -behind a beautiful belt of trees and some bright -flowers stands concealed the grim arch of the County -Gaol. Nearly opposite is the Infirmary. Farther -on, I passed a large school and waterworks; these -buildings are handsome, and of red brick.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Oliver’s Battery.</div> - -<p>I continued on up the long ascent known as -“Sleeper’s Hill.” The country people tell you that -here seven men fell asleep in a field when the -Cathedral was commenced, awoke when it was -finished, and, after going to inspect it, came back to -their cold bed and crumbled into dust. In about a -mile I saw a clump of dark fir-trees on the left, -standing on a spot called “Oliver’s Battery.” (Any -one wishing to visit it should take the first turning -to the downs, for you cannot cross the fields farther -on.)</p> - -<p>This entrenchment was really constructed by -Hopton, though named after Cromwell. On this -ground, the highest near Winchester, we stand in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> -the centre of a grand panoramic scene. Below lies -the city—its red houses, green trees, and grey -Cathedral. It looked more formidable when this -camp was made; the castle stood at its head, and -the long wall extended down, crowned at intervals -with round towers. There were no suburbs then, and -it seemed among the surrounding pastures like “a -quaint old mosaic in a ring of emeralds.” After leaving -the “Noll” and rejoining the road, I continued towards -Hursley, and observed on the right a monumental -structure just peeping over the hill. On inquiring I -found that this was not a memorial to a hero, but to -a horse! As I go down hill with fine plantations -skirting the road, I observe that I am in the country -of yew-trees, which here replace the “hedgerow -elms,” generally characteristic of England. Sweet -marjoram and masses of wild foliage rise on either -side, and above it gleam in rich profusion the scarlet -clusters of the “dogwood.” On the left is a hill -prettily dotted with small yews and junipers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - <a name="image_hursley" id="image_hursley"><img src="images/hursley.jpg" alt="Hursley" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Hursley. - </p> -</div> - -<p>The church of Hursley is large and handsome, -and the graveyard beautifully adorned. Inside, at -the west end, we found a brass, not much larger -than an octavo page, recording the name of John -Wolkland, who was keeper of the neighbouring -Castle of Merdon in the fifteenth century. Close to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span> -it rose a large stone slab, commemorative of many -members of the Cromwell family. Richard Cromwell, -the Protector’s son, married one of the Major -family here, and became possessed of the manor. -At his death the place was purchased from the -daughters by Sir W. Heathcote, who took down -the old mansion, saying, I am told, that “the roof -which harboured a Cromwell was not fit to shelter -an honest man.” These reminiscences of fame and -decay are somewhat melancholy. A brass corresponding -to that of Wolkland has a sweeter sound. -It bears the following inscription:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container gothic" lang="emodeng" xml:lang="emodeng"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“If ever chaste or honneste godly lyfe</div> - <div class="p_line">Myghte merit prayse of eber lastyng fame,</div> - <div class="p_line">forget not then that worthy Sternhold’s wife</div> - <div class="p_line">Our hobbies make<a name="Anchor_108" id="Anchor_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 108.">[108]</a> Ane Horswell cald by name</div> - <div class="p_line">frome whome alas, to sone for hers here lefte</div> - <div class="p_line">hath God her soule and deth her lyfe byreft.</div> - <div class="p_line_i33">Anno 1559.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">Sternhold lived in the neighbouring village of Slackstead. -He was Groom of the Robes to Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Keble.</div> - -<p>Passing through the southern door into the graveyard, -we find in the grass two flat stones side by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span> -side with crosses on them and the name of Keble -with that of his wife. He was vicar of this parish. -Although we see here the cold and polished granite -under which he lies, we feel that there is no man -more truly alive among us. He lives in our hearts -and memories—on our tables, and in our churches. -A friend of mine—a clergyman who passed early to -his rest—was accustomed to play and sing every -night with his family that inspiring hymn, “Sun of -my soul.” This large and handsome church is -Keble’s monument, for it was built out of the proceeds -of “The Christian Year.”</p> - -<p>From this I return back a short distance to -“Standon Gate,” where a turnpike stood, to visit -Merdon Castle. I pass up a steep hill between -nut-trees to the keeper’s Swiss châlet. Entering -the enclosure, I find vast grassy mounds standing -about on all sides, covering the ruins of the walls -and towers. In one place over the deep fosse a -huge tower of flint masonry remains, the upper part -of which is concealed in ivy. This castle was built -by De Blois in 1138, and fell to decay in the fourteenth -century. A tragic scene took place on this -spot at an earlier date. At “Meretune” King -Cynewulf was murdered by Cynehard in 784. The -former had deposed the brother of the latter, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> -was soon afterwards murdered, and Cynehard determined -to be revenged. He lay in wait for some time -among these woods until his victim should come here -with few attendants to visit his mistress. Then he -surrounded the house and killed him.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Farley Mount.</div> - -<div class="figcenter gap_above"> - <a name="image_farley" id="image_farley"><img src="images/farley.jpg" alt="Farley Mount" /></a> - <p class="caption"> - Farley Mount. - </p> - -<p class="caption">UNDERNEATH LIES BURIED -A HORSE -THE PROPERTY OF -PAULET Sᵀ. JOHN, ESQᴿᴱ. -THAT IN THE MONTH -OF SEPTEMBER 1733 LEAPED -INTO A CHALKPIT TWENTY FIVE -FEET DEEP A FOXHUNTING -WITH HIS MASTER ON HIS BACK -AND IN OCTOBER 1734 HE WON THE -HUNTER’S PLATE ON WORTHY DOWNS -AND WAS RODE BY HIS OWNER -AND ENTERED IN THE NAME OF -“BEWARE CHALK PIT”.</p> - -<p class="caption">THE ABOVE BEING THE WORDS OF -THE ORIGINAL INSCRIPTION -WERE RESTORED BY THE Rᵀ. HON. -SIR WILLIAM HEATHCOTE, BARONET -SEP. A.D. 1870</p> - -</div> - -<p>After leaving Merdon I took another turning to see -the monument on Farley Mount. It is in the form -of a pyramid, and stands on such a high point of -the downs that Salisbury spire is visible from it in -clear weather. Inside there is a room where wayfarers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span> -and picnic parties may rest and be thankful. -On the wall we read that the horse of Paulet St. John -leaped into a chalk pit and not only was unhurt, but -won the plate at a race the next year!</p> - -<p>Many a good man is overlooked in this world -for want of a “horse.” This animal not only bore -its master nobly during life, but has carried his name -to posterity after death. Thus in Olympic times -did Aura immortalize the Corinthian Phidolas, who -raised a statue in her honour.</p> - -<p>The sun was sinking like a ball of fire before I -left this spot, and the shadow of the pyramid was -lengthening into a spire on the smooth down. -Descending, I walked along a wire-netting put up -to circumscribe the “bunnies” who swarm in this -neighbourhood, and then came to Crab Wood. -Thence I reached, by the old Roman highway, Tegg -Down, where the soldiers were practising at targets, -and soon was back on the main road near “Oliver’s -Battery.”</p> - -<p>The ancient “Gwent” was surrounded by a sea -of foliage. Only in one direction was there an -opening—over the chalk downs westward. This -vast forest was part of the great Andreds wood -which clothed the chief part of Kent, Sussex, and -Hampshire. Different districts in it had local names.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span> -Southwards from Winchester it came to be called -Bere Forest, and afterwards Waltham Chase. Roman -roads from “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Venta Belgarum</span>” pierced it in several -directions.</p> - -<p>There is a story about part of it connected with the -building of the Cathedral. Bishop Walkelin found -himself in want of timber, and applied to the Conqueror -to let him have as much timber as he could -carry out of Hanepinges Wood in four days and -nights. William at once granted the request. The -astute bishop then collected all the woodmen in the -neighbourhood, and they managed to cut and carry -the whole wood within the appointed time. When -the King returned to Winchester and went into -the district he exclaimed—“Am I bewitched, or have -I lost my senses? Why I thought I had a most -delightful wood here?”</p> - -<p>The cause of the clearance was explained to him, -and he was angry; but Walkelin pacified him by -falling on his knees and offering to resign his -bishopric. “I was too lavish a donor, and thou wast -too grasping a receiver,” he finally replied.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hampage Oak.</div> - -<p>There is a tradition that one tree was spared in -this general clearance—an oak under which St. -Augustine had preached. I was anxious to see this -venerable relic, and inquired where Hanepinges<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span> -Wood was. No one could give me any information. -At last I came to a man upon whom the light -seemed suddenly to break.</p> - -<p>“Hanepinges? It must be ‘Hampage.’ There is -the Hampage oak, to the south-east, near Itchen -Abbas. It is rather more than five miles off.”</p> - -<p>Wishing to make a round, I walked again to -King’s Worthy, and, keeping to the right, passed on -my left hand Miss Turner’s handsome new residence; -and, on my right, a fine old house with a kind of -tower, which I heard, to my surprise, had been the -old parsonage. A little further on a larger house -with a long façade is that of King’s Worthy Park.</p> - -<p>A road pleasantly fringed with trees leads to the -Itchen Abbas station. By taking the train I might -have saved four miles of my walk.</p> - -<p>Near this point, a little to the left, on a hill, a -Roman pavement was discovered some years ago. -It was a fine specimen, adorned with the heads of -Medusa, Venus, Neptune, Mercury, and Mars. A -house was built over it for its protection, but was -not kept in repair, the rain came in, the mice and -the tourists arrived, and when I saw it there was little -left; what there is has now been earthed up. Thus -what had lasted nearly two thousand years was destroyed -shortly after it was found.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span></p> - -<p>From Itchen Abbas station I made my way to the -Plough Inn—a little distance in front towards Easton—and -passed over the river fringed with its “long -purples.” Then I entered Avington Park, through a -wood of lofty trees, and obtained, across a sheet of -water, a view of the house.</p> - -<p>This mansion stands on the site of one of old -renown, which belonged to the princely Brydges, -Dukes of Chandos; and where the “Merry Monarch,” -when sojourning at Winchester, often came and held -high carnival. It was graced or disgraced by a lady -of note; for the first Brydges, being a man of courage, -married that Countess of Shrewsbury, who, disguised -as a page, held a horse for Buckingham while he -killed her husband in a duel. The last Duke of -Chandos built the present house, and also the brick -church—to which we soon came—in memory of his -wife. Their daughter, a descendant of Mary Tudor, -Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>’s sister, became Duchess of Buckingham, -and her son sold this property to Mr. Shelley, -the present owner’s father.</p> - -<p>Nearly opposite the church is a handsome sarcophagus -to the late Mr. Shelley. The plantations -around the domain are magnificent, the avenue -being two miles in length. After leaving the church -I came to a baker’s shop, and saw a pretty person<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span> -standing in the doorway with “<i>Goodchild</i>” inscribed -in large letters over her. This seemed promising, so -I asked her if she could tell me where to find St. -Augustine’s Oak.</p> - -<p>“Oh, you mean the Gospel oak?”<a name="Anchor_109" id="Anchor_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 109.">[109]</a> she replied. -“You must go through the wicket-gate a few yards -above this, and keep along the line of the fence for -about a mile. None of the children here know it. -I doubt whether any of the villagers do. I am sorry -I cannot accompany you, but I am engaged.”</p> - -<p>I thanked her. Old Syrus says that a pleasant -companion is as good as a carriage, but as I had no -such conveyance on this occasion, I trudged on in -solitary silence. Following the instructions given, I -soon came to a line of lime-trees, between which and -the fence I walked for half a mile. I began to fear -that I might miss the tree, and go on for an -indefinite distance. There was no one to inquire of, -and nothing to break the stillness save when a -wood-pigeon was heard cooing, or, startled by my -approach, burst out of a tree with great commotion. -Thus I tramped on, over turf sweet with thyme and -starry with cinquefoil. I felt so lonely that I was -glad to see a squirrel which ran along the top of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span> -railing beside me, and would stop now and then as -if looking back to see if I was following. Was it—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="p_line-1">“Sent by some spirit to mortals good,</div> - <div class="p_line">Or the unseen genius of the wood.”</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">I know not, but soon he reached a tree up which he -ran, and lo! behind it stood the Hampage Oak. -It was a mere shell about twelve feet high, and kept -together with an iron hoop, but duly honoured by -having an iron fence round it. Among the green, -luxuriant trees it looked like an emblem of death. -I observed that it stood in the centre where two -green alleys crossed. It may have been in this -state of decay for centuries, for oak is very durable, -and Augustine may actually have preached under -it. I should think, from its standing on the cross -roads, that Saxon “moots,” or meetings, may have -been held here, and the chief man may have taken -up his position under it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tichborne.</div> - -<p>Returning to the main road, I proceeded through -the village to Tichborne, about three miles farther -on—the name has become so celebrated that I could -not omit it.<a name="Anchor_110" id="Anchor_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 110.">[110]</a> About a mile beyond it lies Cheriton,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span> -where the engagement took place between the Royalists -and Roundheads, which ended in the former being -defeated and pursued all through a dreadful night.</p> - -<p>The name of Tichborne is supposed to have sprung -from the soil, or, I should say, from the stream which -winds along the park. The church in the village -is most interesting. It retains high oaken pews, -many of them enriched with carving. One side is -entirely occupied by the Tichborne chapel, in which -generations have been laid to rest, but the earliest -memorial is a brass dated 1569. There is a curious -little old effigy of a baby in a red frock, and a very -handsome monument of marble or alabaster to the -Tichborne and his wife of the time of James <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr></p> - -<p>There is a piece of ground near the house which, -by the unpleasant name of the “Crawls,” commemorates -a most noble action. The lady of Tichborne in -Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>’s reign was famed for her liberality, and, -when aged and dying, wished to establish a dole of -bread to be given to all comers on every Lady Day. -Her husband, who perhaps misliked such indiscriminate -charity, replied that she should have as -much land for the purpose as she could herself walk -round while a torch was burning. Nothing daunted, -she rose from her bed, commenced her pilgrimage, -and on her hands and knees actually encircled several<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span> -acres before her flame expired. The dole of 1,900 -loaves continued to the end of the last century, when -old Sir Roger’s misgivings were justified, and as a -substitute money was given to the parish poor. -There can be no doubt about the substantial character -of the gift, but a few regard the story of the -“Crawls” as somewhat airy, and even connect the -name with our old friends the crows.</p> - -<p>A magnificent festival was held here lately -when the present baronet came of age. It lasted -three days, and at night the avenue of enormous -elms and beeches shone with thousands of variegated -lamps. Rich and poor were entertained, and many -old Winchester people said, and deliberately too, that -they did not think there ever was a more splendid -spectacle.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<h3 title="">FOOTNOTES:</h3> -<table summary="Footnotes"> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_102" id="Footnote_102"></a><a href="#Anchor_102">[102]</a></td> - <td>The Belgæ came to this country two hundred years before -Cæsar.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_103" id="Footnote_103"></a><a href="#Anchor_103">[103]</a></td> - <td>Nearly opposite this church stands a large old building, -now let in several tenements. It is called by the people in the -neighbourhood “St. John’s Barracks,” or “Mundy’s Buildings.” -The edifice is supposed to have been at different times a barrack -and a workhouse. In one tenement there are remains of an -oak staircase with an ornamental balustrade, and in another -there is in an upper room a good chalk chimneypiece.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_104" id="Footnote_104"></a><a href="#Anchor_104">[104]</a></td> - <td>He was absolved in the chapter house.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_105" id="Footnote_105"></a><a href="#Anchor_105">[105]</a></td> - <td>One is the disused canal, another has a cascade.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_106" id="Footnote_106"></a><a href="#Anchor_106">[106]</a></td> - <td>Two miles from Twyford.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_107" id="Footnote_107"></a><a href="#Anchor_107">[107]</a></td> - <td>Since writing the above a Roman pottery kiln has been -discovered about eight miles beyond Brambridge, on the -property of Admiral Murray-Aynsley. It can be reached -by train, being a mile and a half from the Botley station in -the direction of Shidfield.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_108" id="Footnote_108"></a><a href="#Anchor_108">[108]</a></td> - <td>Mate. She married secondly one of the Hobbys who held -this manor.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_109" id="Footnote_109"></a><a href="#Anchor_109">[109]</a></td> - <td>It is supposed a Gospel was read here during the perambulation -of the bounds.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> - <td><a name="Footnote_110" id="Footnote_110"></a><a href="#Anchor_110">[110]</a></td> - <td>A turning north leads to Hampage from the Alresford -(Magdalen) road, by which road Tichborne is about six miles -from Winchester.</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<p class="center space_above">THE END.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span></p> - -<h2>INDEX.</h2> - -<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst"> A.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Aaron, <a href="#Page_124" title="Page 124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Abbey House, <a href="#Page_72" title="Page 72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Abbots Barton, <a href="#Page_139" title="Page 139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ælwitha, <a href="#Page_72" title="Page 72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Æthelwold, <a href="#Page_143" title="Page 143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_147" title="Page 147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_156" title="Page 156">156</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Æthelwold’s Cup, <a href="#Page_228" title="Page 228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_231" title="Page 231">231</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Alfred, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61" title="Page 61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_93" title="Page 93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_126" title="Page 126">126–7</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Alfred Place, <a href="#Page_126" title="Page 126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Amphibalus, <a href="#Page_150" title="Page 150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Anastasius, St., <a href="#Page_38" title="Page 38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Andover Road, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Andrew, <a href="#Page_166" title="Page 166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Andrews, St., <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Andrews, Bishop, <a href="#Page_191" title="Page 191">191</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Anglia, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Anglo-Saxon, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Anne, <a href="#Page_33" title="Page 33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Apollo, Temple of, <a href="#Page_149" title="Page 149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_158" title="Page 158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Arca, <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Arcade, <a href="#Page_197" title="Page 197">197</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Archives, <a href="#Page_70" title="Page 70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Arthur, King, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_16" title="Page 16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_151" title="Page 151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Arthur, Prince, <a href="#Page_18" title="Page 18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_119" title="Page 119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Arthur’s Table, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Athelstan, <a href="#Page_62" title="Page 62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_87" title="Page 87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Athelwolf, <a href="#Page_93" title="Page 93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Augustine, St., <a href="#Page_290" title="Page 290">290</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Augustine Oak, <a href="#Page_293" title="Page 293">293</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Austen Friars, <a href="#Page_183" title="Page 183">183</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Avington Park, <a href="#Page_292" title="Page 292">292</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> B.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Baigent, Mr., <a href="#Page_40" title="Page 40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bartholomew’s, St., Church, <a href="#Page_126" title="Page 126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Basynge, W. de, <a href="#Page_197" title="Page 197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_268" title="Page 268">268</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bates, Col., <a href="#Page_275" title="Page 275">275</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Beaufort, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_196" title="Page 196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_247" title="Page 247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_256" title="Page 256">256</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Becket, St., T. à, <a href="#Page_96" title="Page 96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_118" title="Page 118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_251" title="Page 251">251</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> “Bell and Crown,” <a href="#Page_64" title="Page 64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Benedictional, <a href="#Page_215" title="Page 215">215</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Benedictines, <a href="#Page_159" title="Page 159">159</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bere Forest, <a href="#Page_18" title="Page 18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_290" title="Page 290">290</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bertin, St., <a href="#Page_129" title="Page 129">129</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Birinus, St., <a href="#Page_73" title="Page 73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_193" title="Page 193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_152" title="Page 152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_155" title="Page 155">155</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Black Book, <a href="#Page_74" title="Page 74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_87" title="Page 87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Blois, De, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_118" title="Page 118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_135" title="Page 135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_189" title="Page 189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> “Blue Ball,” <a href="#Page_266" title="Page 266">266</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Boles, <a href="#Page_184" title="Page 184">184</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Boleyn, A., <a href="#Page_195" title="Page 195">195</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Brambridge, <a href="#Page_279" title="Page 279">279</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bramston, Miss, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_206" title="Page 206">206</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Brewers Arms, <a href="#Page_272" title="Page 272">272</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bridge Street, <a href="#Page_77" title="Page 77">77</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Brinstan, St., <a href="#Page_211" title="Page 211">211</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Bristol Cross, <a href="#Page_58" title="Page 58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Britons, <a href="#Page_39" title="Page 39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Brooks, Upper, <a href="#Page_127" title="Page 127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_239" title="Page 239">239</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Brooks, Middle, <a href="#Page_239" title="Page 239">239</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Brydges, <a href="#Page_292" title="Page 292">292</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Budden, Mr., <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Buckingham, Duke of, <a href="#Page_254" title="Page 254">254</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Buckingham, Mr., <a href="#Page_240" title="Page 240">240</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Burleigh, Capt., <a href="#Page_23" title="Page 23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Butter Cross, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_145" title="Page 145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_173" title="Page 173">173</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> C.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Cage, <a href="#Page_92" title="Page 92">92</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Campeden, <a href="#Page_253" title="Page 253">253</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Canning, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Canon Street, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Carmelites, <a href="#Page_215" title="Page 215">215</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Castle, <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_14" title="Page 14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_19" title="Page 19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_27" title="Page 27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_31" title="Page 31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Catherine’s, St., Hill, <a href="#Page_260" title="Page 260">260</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cerdic, <a href="#Page_151" title="Page 151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cerne, <a href="#Page_260" title="Page 260">260</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chalkley, Mr., <a href="#Page_145" title="Page 145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_173" title="Page 173">173</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chandos, Duke of, <a href="#Page_292" title="Page 292">292</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chapter House, <a href="#Page_221" title="Page 221">221</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Charles <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_23" title="Page 23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24" title="Page 24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35" title="Page 35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_172" title="Page 172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_180" title="Page 180">180</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Charles <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_6" title="Page 6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_65" title="Page 65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_175" title="Page 175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_221" title="Page 221">221</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Charles’s palace, <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_32" title="Page 32">32</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Charters, <a href="#Page_213" title="Page 213">213</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cheesehill, <a href="#Page_272" title="Page 272">272</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cheriton, <a href="#Page_294" title="Page 294">294</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chesil, <a href="#Page_275" title="Page 275">275</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cheyney Court, <a href="#Page_225" title="Page 225">225</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chicheley, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chilcombe, <a href="#Page_262" title="Page 262">262</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Christ’s Hospital, <a href="#Page_241" title="Page 241">241</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Chudleigh, Miss, <a href="#Page_47" title="Page 47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Clerk, A., <a href="#Page_85" title="Page 85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Clerk, J., <a href="#Page_105" title="Page 105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cloberry, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cloisters, <a href="#Page_169" title="Page 169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_218" title="Page 218">218</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cnut, <a href="#Page_132" title="Page 132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_161" title="Page 161">161</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cobbett, <a href="#Page_24" title="Page 24">24</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cobham, Lord, <a href="#Page_22" title="Page 22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_98" title="Page 98">98</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Coire, <a href="#Page_150" title="Page 150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Coke, <a href="#Page_119" title="Page 119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Colbrand, <a href="#Page_87" title="Page 87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_147" title="Page 147">147</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Collins, <a href="#Page_110" title="Page 110">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Commoners, <a href="#Page_93" title="Page 93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Compton, <a href="#Page_280" title="Page 280">280</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Concord, Temple of, <a href="#Page_149" title="Page 149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Constans, <a href="#Page_151" title="Page 151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cooke, John, <a href="#Page_255" title="Page 255">255</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Corby Castle, <a href="#Page_138" title="Page 138">138</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Corfe Castle, <a href="#Page_6" title="Page 6">6</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cornhill, W. of, <a href="#Page_264" title="Page 264">264</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Corpus Christi, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Courtenay, Bishop, <a href="#Page_198" title="Page 198">198</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Courts (Law), <a href="#Page_32" title="Page 32">32</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Crawley, <a href="#Page_44" title="Page 44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Crab Wood, <a href="#Page_289" title="Page 289">289</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Crema, J. de, <a href="#Page_165" title="Page 165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cromwell, <a href="#Page_26" title="Page 26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_28" title="Page 28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_71" title="Page 71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_168" title="Page 168">168</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cromwell’s family, <a href="#Page_284" title="Page 284">284</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cross, St., <a href="#Page_243" title="Page 243">243</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Crypt, <a href="#Page_211" title="Page 211">211</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Curle, <a href="#Page_26" title="Page 26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cynegils, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_152" title="Page 152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_264" title="Page 264">264</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cynehard, <a href="#Page_287" title="Page 287">287</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Cynewulf, <a href="#Page_287" title="Page 287">287</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> D.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Dagon, <a href="#Page_151" title="Page 151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Damascen, <a href="#Page_202" title="Page 202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dance, <a href="#Page_76" title="Page 76">76</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> Danemead, <a href="#Page_87" title="Page 87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Danes, <a href="#Page_61" title="Page 61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_129" title="Page 129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_161" title="Page 161">161</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Deanery, <a href="#Page_221" title="Page 221">221</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dear, Mr., <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Despencer, Earl, <a href="#Page_16" title="Page 16">16</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Devenish, <a href="#Page_74" title="Page 74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Diogenes, <a href="#Page_157" title="Page 157">157</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Disraeli, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dome Alley, <a href="#Page_221" title="Page 221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_225" title="Page 225">225</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Domesday Book, <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dominican Convent, <a href="#Page_76" title="Page 76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Draperie, <a href="#Page_62" title="Page 62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Druidical stones, <a href="#Page_91" title="Page 91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_126" title="Page 126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_149" title="Page 149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_276" title="Page 276">276</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dummer, Mr., <a href="#Page_58" title="Page 58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> “Dunbar, Henry,” <a href="#Page_244" title="Page 244">244</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dunstan, <a href="#Page_159" title="Page 159">159</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Durngate, <a href="#Page_86" title="Page 86">86</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Durst, Canon, <a href="#Page_223" title="Page 223">223</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Dyngeley, <a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> E.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Eastgate, <a href="#Page_76" title="Page 76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edburga, <a href="#Page_72" title="Page 72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edington, <a href="#Page_94" title="Page 94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_167" title="Page 167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_175" title="Page 175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_186" title="Page 186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_194" title="Page 194">194</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edgar, <a href="#Page_66" title="Page 66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_160" title="Page 160">160</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edmund, <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edward the Confessor, <a href="#Page_14" title="Page 14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_162" title="Page 162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edward <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_16" title="Page 16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_124" title="Page 124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_232" title="Page 232">232</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edward <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_94" title="Page 94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_235" title="Page 235">235</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edward <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Edward <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_6" title="Page 6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_136" title="Page 136">136</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Egbert, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Elijah, <a href="#Page_215" title="Page 215">215</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Elias, <a href="#Page_158" title="Page 158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ely, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_19" title="Page 19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_34" title="Page 34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_69" title="Page 69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Elizabeth, St., <a href="#Page_199" title="Page 199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ellis, <a href="#Page_207" title="Page 207">207</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Emma, Queen, <a href="#Page_10" title="Page 10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_53" title="Page 53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_131" title="Page 131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_162" title="Page 162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_193" title="Page 193">193</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ethelbald, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ethelmar, <a href="#Page_205" title="Page 205">205</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ethelred, <a href="#Page_160" title="Page 160">160</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Eton, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_105" title="Page 105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Evelyn, <a href="#Page_33" title="Page 33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Evesham, <a href="#Page_61" title="Page 61">61</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Exchequer, <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> F.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Fair, <a href="#Page_10" title="Page 10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_36" title="Page 36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_81" title="Page 81">81</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Fairfax, <a href="#Page_28" title="Page 28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Faith’s, St., <a href="#Page_244" title="Page 244">244</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Farley Mount, <a href="#Page_288" title="Page 288">288</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Fiennes, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_185" title="Page 185">185</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Fitzherbert, <a href="#Page_279" title="Page 279">279</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> FitzOsborne, <a href="#Page_10" title="Page 10">10</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Flambard, <a href="#Page_165" title="Page 165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Fleshmonger Street, <a href="#Page_53" title="Page 53">53</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Foix, <a href="#Page_198" title="Page 198">198</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Font, <a href="#Page_183" title="Page 183">183</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Fossedyke House, <a href="#Page_88" title="Page 88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Fox, <a href="#Page_107" title="Page 107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_203" title="Page 203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_179" title="Page 179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_189" title="Page 189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_192" title="Page 192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_235" title="Page 235">235</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Franklin, <a href="#Page_277" title="Page 277">277</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Frederick, <a href="#Page_276" title="Page 276">276</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> French prisoners, <a href="#Page_33" title="Page 33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Freshfield, Mr., <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Friary, <a href="#Page_243" title="Page 243">243</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> G.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Gaol, <a href="#Page_124" title="Page 124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Gardiner, <a href="#Page_40" title="Page 40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_194" title="Page 194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_217" title="Page 217">217</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Garnier, <a href="#Page_72" title="Page 72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_205" title="Page 205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_215" title="Page 215">215</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Gaisford, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Gaveston, <a href="#Page_197" title="Page 197">197</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> George <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_47" title="Page 47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> George <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_280" title="Page 280">280</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> George Hotel, <a href="#Page_1" title="Page 1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> George, St., Street, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Giles, St., <a href="#Page_76" title="Page 76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_80" title="Page 80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_93" title="Page 93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_132" title="Page 132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_264" title="Page 264">264</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> God-begot House, <a href="#Page_50" title="Page 50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_235" title="Page 235">235</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Godwin, Earl, <a href="#Page_14" title="Page 14">14</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Godwin family, <a href="#Page_40" title="Page 40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Gold Street, <a href="#Page_235" title="Page 235">235</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Grandison, <a href="#Page_25" title="Page 25">25</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Grant, Miss, <a href="#Page_142" title="Page 142">142</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Grenadier, <a href="#Page_210" title="Page 210">210</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Grille, <a href="#Page_207" title="Page 207">207</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Grimbald, St., <a href="#Page_129" title="Page 129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_138" title="Page 138">138</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Guildhall, <a href="#Page_53" title="Page 53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54" title="Page 54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_65" title="Page 65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_124" title="Page 124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Guilds, <a href="#Page_62" title="Page 62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_123" title="Page 123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Guy of Warwick, <a href="#Page_87" title="Page 87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_147" title="Page 147">147</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Gwent, <a href="#Page_18" title="Page 18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_262" title="Page 262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_289" title="Page 289">289</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Gwynne, <a href="#Page_218" title="Page 218">218</a>, <a href="#Page_236" title="Page 236">236</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> H.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Hall (Castle), <a href="#Page_13" title="Page 13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_16" title="Page 16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_19" title="Page 19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_22" title="Page 22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hall, Mr. H., <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hammond, <a href="#Page_23" title="Page 23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hampage, <a href="#Page_291" title="Page 291">291</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hampshire Friendly Society, <a href="#Page_10" title="Page 10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_13" title="Page 13">13</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Harestock, <a href="#Page_48" title="Page 48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Harold, <a href="#Page_131" title="Page 131">131</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Harpesfelde, <a href="#Page_39" title="Page 39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40" title="Page 40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Harthacnut, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_205" title="Page 205">205</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Harris, <a href="#Page_189" title="Page 189">189</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Heberden, Miss, <a href="#Page_224" title="Page 224">224</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Heathcote, <a href="#Page_284" title="Page 284">284</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Headbourne, <a href="#Page_139" title="Page 139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hedda, <a href="#Page_152" title="Page 152">152</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_15" title="Page 15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_69" title="Page 69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_118" title="Page 118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_247" title="Page 247">247</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Third">III.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_5" title="Page 5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_15" title="Page 15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_74" title="Page 74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_123" title="Page 103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_205" title="Page 205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_229" title="Page 229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_243" title="Page 243">243</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Fourth">IV.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_10" title="Page 10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Fifth">V.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_64" title="Page 64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Sixth">VI.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_57" title="Page 57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_73" title="Page 73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_102" title="Page 102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_232" title="Page 232">232</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Seventh">VII.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_18" title="Page 18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_69" title="Page 69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_96" title="Page 96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_180" title="Page 180">180</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Henry <abbr title="the Eighth">VIII.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6" title="Page 6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_39" title="Page 39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_119" title="Page 119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_168" title="Page 168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_192" title="Page 192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_263" title="Page 263">263</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hervey, <a href="#Page_47" title="Page 47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> High Street, <a href="#Page_5" title="Page 5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_9" title="Page 9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hooper, <a href="#Page_137" title="Page 137">137</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hopton, <a href="#Page_25" title="Page 25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_282" title="Page 282">282</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Horne, <a href="#Page_169" title="Page 169">169</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hudibras, <a href="#Page_149" title="Page 149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hursley, <a href="#Page_283" title="Page 283">283</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hyde Abbey, <a href="#Page_118" title="Page 118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_127" title="Page 127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_128" title="Page 128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_136" title="Page 136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_138" title="Page 138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_229" title="Page 229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_247" title="Page 247">247</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hyde Mead, <a href="#Page_132" title="Page 132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Hyde Street, <a href="#Page_66" title="Page 66">66</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> I.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Itchen, <a href="#Page_143" title="Page 143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_236" title="Page 236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_259" title="Page 259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_263" title="Page 263">263</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Isabella, Queen, <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> J.</li> - -<li class="indx"> James <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_172" title="Page 172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_180" title="Page 180">180</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> James <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_222" title="Page 222">222</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> James’, St., Lane, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> James’ Terrace, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Jewry Street, <a href="#Page_123" title="Page 123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Jews, <a href="#Page_35" title="Page 35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_85" title="Page 85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> John, King, <a href="#Page_5" title="Page 5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_15" title="Page 15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_264" title="Page 264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_268" title="Page 268">268</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> John’s, St., Barracks, <a href="#Page_266" title="Page 266">266</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> John’s, St., Croft, <a href="#Page_266" title="Page 266">266</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> John’s, St., Hospital, <a href="#Page_54" title="Page 54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_73" title="Page 73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_247" title="Page 247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_289" title="Page 289">289</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> John’s, St., Street, <a href="#Page_264" title="Page 264">264</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Johnson, <a href="#Page_110" title="Page 112">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Jones, Inigo, <a href="#Page_183" title="Page 183">183</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Josse, St., <a href="#Page_16" title="Page 16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_130" title="Page 130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Just, St., <a href="#Page_193" title="Page 193">193</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> K.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Keble, <a href="#Page_287" title="Page 285">285</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ken, Bishop, <a href="#Page_105" title="Page 105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_190" title="Page 190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_218" title="Page 218">218</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Kerebroc, <a href="#Page_19" title="Page 19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Keats, <a href="#Page_9" title="Page 9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> King, Mr., <a href="#Page_57" title="Page 57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Kingsgate, <a href="#Page_226" title="Page 226">226</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Kings Worthy, <a href="#Page_141" title="Page 141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_291" title="Page 291">291</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Kingston, Duke of, <a href="#Page_47" title="Page 47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Kinnaird, Lord, <a href="#Page_44" title="Page 44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Kitchin, Dean, <a href="#Page_83" title="Page 83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_189" title="Page 189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_226" title="Page 226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_278" title="Page 278">278</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> L.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Lady Chapel, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lainston, <a href="#Page_44" title="Page 44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Langton, Bishop, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lark, <a href="#Page_105" title="Page 105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Laurence’s, St., <a href="#Page_57" title="Page 57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_242" title="Page 242">242</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Laurence’s, St., Passage, <a href="#Page_132" title="Page 132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Leicester, Lord, <a href="#Page_101" title="Page 101">101</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Leroy, Miss, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_206" title="Page 206">206</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Leland, <a href="#Page_118" title="Page 118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lewis, W., <a href="#Page_254" title="Page 254">254</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Library, <a href="#Page_213" title="Page 213">213</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Library, Free, <a href="#Page_65" title="Page 65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Limafelda, <a href="#Page_5" title="Page 5">5</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lincoln, <a href="#Page_5" title="Page 5">5</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lisle, <a href="#Page_39" title="Page 39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_254" title="Page 254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_255" title="Page 255">255</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Liverpool, Lord, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Longwood, <a href="#Page_209" title="Page 209">209</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lourtebourne, <a href="#Page_231" title="Page 231">231</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Love, Nicholas, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lucius, <a href="#Page_150" title="Page 150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_198" title="Page 198">198</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Lucy, Bishop de, <a href="#Page_192" title="Page 192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_198" title="Page 198">198</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> M.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Madron, <a href="#Page_149" title="Page 149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Magdalen Fair, <a href="#Page_83" title="Page 83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Magdalen Hospital, <a href="#Page_236" title="Page 236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_266" title="Page 266">266</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Malchus, <a href="#Page_192" title="Page 192">192</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mark, St., <a href="#Page_150" title="Page 150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Market Street, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Markham, <a href="#Page_22" title="Page 22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mary, Queen, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_119" title="Page 119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_136" title="Page 136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mary, St., <a href="#Page_117" title="Page 117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_229" title="Page 229">229</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Matilda, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_117" title="Page 117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_132" title="Page 132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Maurice’s, St., <a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Measures, Standard, <a href="#Page_66" title="Page 66">66</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mechanics’ Institute, <a href="#Page_173" title="Page 173">173</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mellon, Miss, <a href="#Page_64" title="Page 64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Merdon Castle, <a href="#Page_283" title="Page 283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_287" title="Page 287">287</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mercurius, <a href="#Page_170" title="Page 170">170</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mews, Royal, <a href="#Page_15" title="Page 15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Michael’s, St., <a href="#Page_244" title="Page 244">244</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Milner, <a href="#Page_138" title="Page 138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_196" title="Page 196">196</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Minster Lane, <a href="#Page_66" title="Page 66">66</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Minster Street, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Mirabel, <a href="#Page_222" title="Page 222">222</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Montagu, Mrs., <a href="#Page_184" title="Page 184">184</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Morestead, <a href="#Page_231" title="Page 231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_272" title="Page 272">272</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Morley, <a href="#Page_107" title="Page 107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_121" title="Page 121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122" title="Page 122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_213" title="Page 213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_232" title="Page 232">232</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Museum, British, <a href="#Page_268" title="Page 268">268</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Museum, Winchester, <a href="#Page_65" title="Page 65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_152" title="Page 152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_211" title="Page 211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_267" title="Page 267">267</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> N.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Narwhal, <a href="#Page_101" title="Page 100">100</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Natives, Society of, <a href="#Page_37" title="Page 37">37</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Netley Abbey, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> New College, <a href="#Page_96" title="Page 96">96</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> New Forest, <a href="#Page_62" title="Page 62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Newburgh Street, <a href="#Page_37" title="Page 37">37</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Newmarket, <a href="#Page_33" title="Page 33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Newles, <a href="#Page_254" title="Page 254">254</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Newport, <a href="#Page_23" title="Page 23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Nicholas, Warden, <a href="#Page_106" title="Page 106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_223" title="Page 223">223</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Nicholas, St., <a href="#Page_183" title="Page 183">183</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Noble poverty, <a href="#Page_258" title="Page 258">258</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Northesk, Lord, <a href="#Page_65" title="Page 65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_269" title="Page 269">269</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Northgate, <a href="#Page_88" title="Page 88">88</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Nuns’ Walk, <a href="#Page_143" title="Page 143">143</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> O.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Obelisk, <a href="#Page_37" title="Page 37">37</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ogle, <a href="#Page_25" title="Page 25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_27" title="Page 27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_31" title="Page 31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Oliver’s Battery, <a href="#Page_282" title="Page 282">282</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Oram, <a href="#Page_38" title="Page 38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Oswald, <a href="#Page_160" title="Page 160">160</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Otterbourne, <a href="#Page_280" title="Page 280">280</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Otway, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Overbury, <a href="#Page_120" title="Page 120">120</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> P.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Palm Hall, <a href="#Page_81" title="Page 81">81</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Palmere, <a href="#Page_124" title="Page 124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Pamplin, Miss, <a href="#Page_50" title="Page 50">50</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Parchment Street, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Parker, <a href="#Page_142" title="Page 142">142</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Parliaments, <a href="#Page_31" title="Page 31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Paternoster Row, <a href="#Page_230" title="Page 230">230</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Paul’s, St., <a href="#Page_38" title="Page 38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Paulet, Lord, <a href="#Page_54" title="Page 54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_65" title="Page 65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Pavement, <a href="#Page_152" title="Page 152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_211" title="Page 211">211</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Penthouse, <a href="#Page_62" title="Page 62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Perkins, Mr., <a href="#Page_50" title="Page 50">50</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Perrers, Alice, <a href="#Page_94" title="Page 94">94</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Peter’s, St., Street, <a href="#Page_34" title="Page 34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_53" title="Page 53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_239" title="Page 239">239</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Peterborough, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Petrus, <a href="#Page_254" title="Page 254">254</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Phidolas, <a href="#Page_289" title="Page 289">289</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Philip, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_34" title="Page 34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_119" title="Page 119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Philip, St., <a href="#Page_200" title="Page 200">200</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Pilgrim’s Hall, <a href="#Page_223" title="Page 223">223</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Pillory, <a href="#Page_175" title="Page 175">175</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Plague mounds, <a href="#Page_268" title="Page 268">268</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Plutarch, <a href="#Page_85" title="Page 85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ponthieu, <a href="#Page_130" title="Page 130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Pope, <a href="#Page_277" title="Page 277">277</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Popham, <a href="#Page_120" title="Page 120">120</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Portland Isle, <a href="#Page_206" title="Page 206">206</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Prior’s Hall, <a href="#Page_231" title="Page 231">231</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Punchbowl, <a href="#Page_268" title="Page 268">268</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> R.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Raleigh, <a href="#Page_22" title="Page 22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_119" title="Page 119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Raley, <a href="#Page_91" title="Page 91">91</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Ranelagh, <a href="#Page_47" title="Page 47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rebuses, <a href="#Page_203" title="Page 203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Refectory, <a href="#Page_223" title="Page 223">223</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Reniger, <a href="#Page_44" title="Page 44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rheims, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Richard <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22" title="Page 22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_69" title="Page 69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_199" title="Page 199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Richard <abbr title="the Second">II.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Richards, Mr., <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rings, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_229" title="Page 229">229</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> “Rising Sun,” <a href="#Page_78" title="Page 78">78</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Roche, P. de la, <a href="#Page_199" title="Page 199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rogers, <a href="#Page_137" title="Page 137">137</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Roman Catholics, <a href="#Page_236" title="Page 236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_282" title="Page 282">282</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Roman kiln, <a href="#Page_279" title="Page 279">279</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Roman pavement, <a href="#Page_291" title="Page 291">291</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Roman road, <a href="#Page_265" title="Page 265">265</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Romans, <a href="#Page_5" title="Page 5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_66" title="Page 66">66</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Round, Mr., <a href="#Page_12" title="Page 12">12</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Round Tower, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rose, <a href="#Page_225" title="Page 225">225</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Royal Hotel, <a href="#Page_236" title="Page 236">236</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> “Royal Oak,” <a href="#Page_50" title="Page 50">50</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rudborne, <a href="#Page_87" title="Page 87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_151" title="Page 151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Rufus, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_61" title="Page 61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_81" title="Page 81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_163" title="Page 163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_164" title="Page 164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_179" title="Page 179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_189" title="Page 189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_217" title="Page 217">217</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Russell, Lady R., <a href="#Page_137" title="Page 137">137</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Russian cannon, <a href="#Page_76" title="Page 76">76</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> S.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Salcot, <a href="#Page_136" title="Page 136">136</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Salisbury, Earl of, <a href="#Page_81" title="Page 81">81</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Saludadors, <a href="#Page_222" title="Page 222">222</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Salvation Army, <a href="#Page_126" title="Page 126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Saracen, <a href="#Page_202" title="Page 202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sawbridge, <a href="#Page_199" title="Page 199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Saxon palace, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Saxons, <a href="#Page_152" title="Page 152">152</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Say, Master, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_124" title="Page 124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Scoteneye, <a href="#Page_84" title="Page 84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Scowertene Street, <a href="#Page_123" title="Page 123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Scures, Sir J. de, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_94" title="Page 94">94</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sepulchre, Holy, <a href="#Page_207" title="Page 207">207</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Shelley, Mr., <a href="#Page_292" title="Page 292">292</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Shipley House, <a href="#Page_277" title="Page 277">277</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Shrewsbury, Countess of, <a href="#Page_292" title="Page 292">292</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Silchester, <a href="#Page_150" title="Page 150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Silkstede, <a href="#Page_201" title="Page 201">201</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Simeon, <a href="#Page_164" title="Page 164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sleepers’ Hill, <a href="#Page_282" title="Page 282">282</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Slype, <a href="#Page_212" title="Page 212">212</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Smith, Sydney, <a href="#Page_113" title="Page 113">113</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sparkford, <a href="#Page_244" title="Page 244">244</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sparsholt, <a href="#Page_47" title="Page 47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Soke, <a href="#Page_78" title="Page 78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_101" title="Page 101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_226" title="Page 226">226</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Soldiers’ Home, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Solomons, Mrs., <a href="#Page_270" title="Page 270">270</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Southgate, <a href="#Page_88" title="Page 88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Square, The, <a href="#Page_58" title="Page 58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Star, The, <a href="#Page_10" title="Page 10">10</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Stencilling, <a href="#Page_64" title="Page 64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Stephen, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_117" title="Page 115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_132" title="Page 132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Stephen’s Table, <a href="#Page_256" title="Page 256">256</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sternhold, <a href="#Page_284" title="Page 284">284</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Stewart, Herbert, <a href="#Page_106" title="Page 106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Stigand, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Streets, Ancient, <a href="#Page_58" title="Page 58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Stuart, Lady A., <a href="#Page_23" title="Page 23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Suastika, <a href="#Page_186" title="Page 186">186</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sumner, Bishop, <a href="#Page_197" title="Page 197">197</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Sustern Spytal, <a href="#Page_93" title="Page 93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Swathling House, <a href="#Page_239" title="Page 239">239</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Swinford, C., <a href="#Page_247" title="Page 247">247</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Swithun, St., <a href="#Page_129" title="Page 129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_215" title="Page 215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_227" title="Page 227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_229" title="Page 229">229</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Swords, Ancient, <a href="#Page_37" title="Page 37">37</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Syrus, <a href="#Page_293" title="Page 293">293</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> T.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Templars, <a href="#Page_74" title="Page 74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tennyson, Lord, <a href="#Page_276" title="Page 276">276</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Thatch, <a href="#Page_6" title="Page 6">6</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tichborne, <a href="#Page_294" title="Page 294">294</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tichborne, Mr., <a href="#Page_282" title="Page 282">282</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tichborne, Sir B., <a href="#Page_21" title="Page 21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tichborne, Sir H., <a href="#Page_31" title="Page 31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tichborne, Sir R., <a href="#Page_25" title="Page 25">25</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Thomas’, St., Church, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_243" title="Page 243">243</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Toclyve, <a href="#Page_268" title="Page 268">268</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tower, <a href="#Page_179" title="Page 179">179</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tower Street, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Towers, Castle, <a href="#Page_14" title="Page 14">14</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Toye, Mr., <a href="#Page_224" title="Page 224">224</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Trafalgar Street, <a href="#Page_33" title="Page 33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Trusty Servant, <a href="#Page_107" title="Page 107">107</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tudor, Mary, <a href="#Page_292" title="Page 292">292</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Tuesco, <a href="#Page_278" title="Page 278">278</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx"> Twyford, <a href="#Page_146" title="Page 146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_275" title="Page 275">275</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> V.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Vanderbyl, Mr., <a href="#Page_44" title="Page 44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Valentine, St., <a href="#Page_131" title="Page 131">131</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> <span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Venta Belgarum</span>, <a href="#Page_290" title="Page 290">290</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Vergers, <a href="#Page_213" title="Page 213">213</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Victoria Hospital, <a href="#Page_267" title="Page 267">267</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Vulgate, <a href="#Page_215" title="Page 215">215</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> W.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Wales, Prince of, <a href="#Page_16" title="Page 16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_248" title="Page 248">248</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Walkelin, <a href="#Page_81" title="Page 81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_163" title="Page 163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_290" title="Page 290">290</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Waller, <a href="#Page_4" title="Page 4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_24" title="Page 24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26" title="Page 26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_31" title="Page 31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Walls, <a href="#Page_79" title="Page 79">79</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wansborough, <a href="#Page_214" title="Page 214">214</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Waltheof, Earl of, <a href="#Page_83" title="Page 83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Walton, I., <a href="#Page_190" title="Page 190">190</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Water Lane, <a href="#Page_66" title="Page 66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_86" title="Page 86">86</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Warton, <a href="#Page_110" title="Page 112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_149" title="Page 149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Watts, <a href="#Page_105" title="Page 105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wayneflete, <a href="#Page_105" title="Page 105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_168" title="Page 168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_171" title="Page 171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_190" title="Page 190">190</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wessex, <a href="#Page_59" title="Page 59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Westbury Villa, <a href="#Page_88" title="Page 88">88</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Westgate, <a href="#Page_9" title="Page 9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_34" title="Page 34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_36" title="Page 36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_89" title="Page 89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Westminster, <a href="#Page_153" title="Page 153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> White House, <a href="#Page_236" title="Page 236">236</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Witham, <a href="#Page_216" title="Page 216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Widmore, <a href="#Page_64" title="Page 64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wight, <a href="#Page_263" title="Page 263">263</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wilberforce, <a href="#Page_190" title="Page 190">190</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> William <abbr title="the First">I.</abbr>, <a href="#Page_11" title="Page 11">11</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wilton, Grey de, <a href="#Page_22" title="Page 22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wolfe, <a href="#Page_125" title="Page 125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wolkland, <a href="#Page_284" title="Page 284">284</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wolsey, <a href="#Page_39" title="Page 39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wolstan, <a href="#Page_154" title="Page 154">154</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wolvesey, <a href="#Page_63" title="Page 63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_114" title="Page 114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_122" title="Page 122">122</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Workhouse, <a href="#Page_38" title="Page 38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wriothesley, <a href="#Page_137" title="Page 137">137</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wyke, <a href="#Page_38" title="Page 38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_39" title="Page 39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Wykeham, <a href="#Page_17" title="Page 17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20" title="Page 20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_93" title="Page 93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_98" title="Page 98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_107" title="Page 107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_136" title="Page 136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137" title="Page 137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_167" title="Page 167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_185" title="Page 185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_229" title="Page 229">229</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> Y.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Yonge, Miss, <a href="#Page_280" title="Page 280">280</a></li> - -<li class="indx"> Young, <a href="#Page_109" title="Page 109">109</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst"> Z.</li> - -<li class="indx"> Z. O., <a href="#Page_253" title="Page 253">253</a></li></ul> - -<p class="printed">UNWIN BROTHERS, THE GRESHAM PRESS, CHILWORTH AND LONDON.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="cover"> - <img src="images/spine.jpg" alt="Spine" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h2 title=""><a name="End_Transcribers_Note" id="End_Transcribers_Note">Transcriber’s Note</a></h2> - -<p>The following changes have been made:</p> - -<p>References to footnotes <a name="FootnoteAnchor_15" id="FootnoteAnchor_15" href="#Anchor_15" title="Reference to footnote 15">15</a> (<a href="#Page_16" title="">page 16</a>) and <a name="FootnoteAnchor_73" id="FootnoteAnchor_73" href="#Anchor_73" title="Reference to footnote 73">73</a> (<a href="#Page_179" title="">page 179</a>) have been inserted, as they were missing in the original.</p> - -<p>On <a href="#Page_31" title="">page 31</a> “farewill” has been changed to “farewell” in “at their farewell”.</p> -<p>On <a href="#Page_260" title="">page 260</a> a repetition of the word “the” has been removed from -“the Cerne Giant”.</p> - -<p>Some entries in the Index have been changed to match the spelling in the body of the book:</p> -<ul class="tn"> -<li><a href="#Page_297" title="">Page 297</a> “Athlewulf” has been changed to “Athelwolf”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_297" title="">Page 297</a> “Basyng” has been changed to “Basynge”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_299" title="">Page 299</a> “Fiernes” has been changed to “Fiennes”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_299" title="">Page 299</a> “FitzHerbert” has been changed to “Fitzherbert”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_300" title="">Page 300</a> “Harpesfield” has been changed to “Harpesfelde”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_300" title="">Page 300</a> “James’s, St.” has been changed to “James’ St.”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_300" title="">Page 300</a> “James, Terrace” has been changed to “James’, Terrace”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_302" title="">Page 302</a> “Roches, P. de” has been changed to “Roche, P. de la”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_302" title="">Page 302</a> “Rudbourne” has been changed to “Rudborne”</li> -<li><a href="#Page_303" title="">Page 303</a> “Thomas’s, St.” has been changed to “Thomas’ St.”</li> -</ul> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Royal Winchester, by A. G. L'Estrange - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROYAL WINCHESTER *** - -***** This file should be named 50546-h.htm or 50546-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/5/4/50546/ - -Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Fay Dunn and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - - -</pre> - -</body> -</html> |