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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Roman Wall, by Rev. John Collingwood Bruce
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: The Roman Wall
-
-Author: Rev. John Collingwood Bruce
-
-Release Date: November 1, 2015 [EBook #50364]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ROMAN WALL ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by KD Weeks, deaurider, and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Note:
-
-This version of the text cannot represent certain typographical effects.
-Italics are delimited with the ‘_’ character as _italic_. The frequent
-appearance of blackletter font is noted here by enclosing the text in
-‘~’ as ‘~blackletter text~’. Superscripted characters are preceded by
-‘^’.
-
-Minor errors in punctuation and formatting have been silently corrected.
-Please see the transcriber’s note at the end of this text for details
-regarding the handling of any textual issues encountered during its
-preparation.
-
-Page headers signalled changes of topic, and have been retained as
-paragraph descriptions (‘sidenotes’). Where the headers persist across
-multiple pages, they were removed. On occasion, the headers on facing
-pages are interleaved during an extended discussion of a topic. Only the
-first of each were retained.
-
-The position of illustrations may have been adjusted slightly. Those
-which appeared within a paragraph are indicated in-line as
-[Illustration: <caption>]. Most were grayscale in the original, and have
-been brightened to counteract the effects of age. Those few which were
-colorized have been retained as they now appear.
-
-Captions for the Plates which appear within the images have been
-repeated as text to facilitate searches. Where no captions were given,
-or the images are composites (e.g. Plate III), the descriptions used in
-the Table of Contents were used.
-
-The alphabetic footnotes in the original restarted with ‘a’ and cycled
-through the alphabet multiple times. Several notes to tables used the
-typical asterisk and dagger symbols. All footnotes have been
-re-sequenced numerically for uniqueness.
-
-Footnotes, some of which are quite lengthy digressions, have been moved
-to the end of each chapter to facilitate reading.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- G. Bouchier Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- PONS-ÆLII, RESTORED.
-]
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- THE
- ROMAN WALL
-
- A
- HISTORICAL, TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE
- ACCOUNT OF THE
-
- ~Barrier of the Lower Isthmus,~
-
- EXTENDING FROM THE TYNE TO THE SOLWAY,
-
- DEDUCED FROM NUMEROUS PERSONAL SURVEYS,
-
- BY THE
-
- REV. JOHN COLLINGWOOD BRUCE, M. A.
-
-[Illustration]
-
- LONDON: JOHN RUSSELL SMITH, 4, OLD-COMPTON-STREET, SOHO SQUARE.
-
- NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE; WILLIAM SANG, 61, GREY STREET;
-
- G. BOUCHIER RICHARDSON, 38, CLAYTON-STREET-WEST.
-
- M.DCCC.LI.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE:
- IMPRINTED BY GEORGE BOUCHIER RICHARDSON, CLAYTON-STREET-WEST; PRINTER
- TO THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES, AND TO THE TYPOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY,
- BOTH OF NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
- TO
- JOHN CLAYTON, ESQUIRE,
- THE PROPRIETOR
- OF THE
- MOST SPLENDID REMAINS OF THE ROMAN BARRIER
- IN NORTHUMBERLAND
- WHOSE
- ANTIQUARIAN INTELLIGENCE AND CLASSICAL LEARNING
- HAVE BEEN MOST PROFUSELY AND KINDLY
- AFFORDED TO THE AUTHOR
- THIS WORK
- ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE MILITARY CHARACTER AND USAGES
- OF A GREAT PEOPLE
- IS MOST GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- PREFACE.
-
-The famous Roman Wall, which, in former times, protected southern
-Britain from the ravages of the northern tribes, exhibits, at this day,
-remains more entire, and forms a subject of study more interesting than
-is generally supposed.
-
-Two authors of great learning have treated of this renowned
-structure—Horsley, in the Britannia Romana, and Hodgson, in the last
-volume of his History of Northumberland. Both are treatises of
-considerable size, and both are, to a certain extent, rare. The
-Britannia Romana, moreover, describes the Wall, not as it is, but as it
-was more than a century ago. Hodgson’s work is of recent date, and forms
-a valuable storehouse of nearly all that is known upon the subject. The
-mind, however, of that amiable man and zealous antiquary was, at the
-time of its preparation, bending under the weight of his ill-requited
-labours, and he has failed to present his ample materials to the reader
-in that condensed and well-arranged form which distinguishes his
-previous volumes, and without which a book on antiquities will not
-arrest the attention of the general reader.
-
-The following work may be regarded as introductory to the elaborate
-productions of Horsley and Hodgson. The reader is not assumed to be
-acquainted with the technicalities of archæology; and, at each advancing
-step the information is supplied which may render his course easy. I
-have not attempted, in the last part of the work, to enumerate all the
-altars and inscribed stones which have been found upon the line of the
-Wall, but have made a selection of those which are most likely to
-interest the general reader, and to give him a correct idea of the
-nature and value of these remains.
-
-In the body of the work I have endeavoured to furnish a correct
-delineation of the present condition of the Wall and its outworks. All
-my descriptions are the result of personal observation. To secure as
-great accuracy as possible, I have read over many of my proof sheets on
-the spot which they describe.
-
-The pictorial illustrations have been prepared with care, and will give
-the reader, who is not disposed to traverse the ground, a correct idea
-of the state of the Barrier. The wood-cuts and plates, illustrative of
-the antiquities found on the line, have, with the exception of a few
-coins introduced into the first Part of the volume, and copied from the
-MONUMENTA HISTORICA, been prepared from original drawings, taken for
-this work from the objects themselves. I am not without hope that the
-well-read antiquary will value these delineations for their beauty and
-accuracy.
-
-The inhabitants of the isthmus are proud of the Wall and its
-associations; and whatever may have been the case with their
-forefathers, will not needlessly destroy it. Most kind has been the
-reception I have met with in my peregrinations, and most valuable the
-assistance I have received from the gentry and yeomen of the line, and
-others interested in my labours! Gladly would I enumerate all to whom I
-am indebted, had it been possible. Some names, however, must be
-mentioned. His Grace the Duke of Northumberland has not only given me
-free access to all his antiquarian stores, but directed me to prepare at
-his expense engravings on wood of all that I thought suitable to my
-purpose. Would that his Grace knew how much I have been cheered in my
-course by his notice of my humble labours! To John Clayton, esq., I am
-obliged for the gift of the wood-cuts illustrative of the numerous and
-interesting antiquities preserved at CILURNUM, the produce of that
-station and BORCOVICUS. To Albert Way, esq., the accomplished and
-honorary secretary of the Archæological Institute, with whom I had last
-year the pleasure and advantage of spending a day upon the Wall, I am
-indebted for the cuts representing the altar and slab discovered at
-Tynemouth. The suite of wood-cuts illustrative of the hoard of coins
-found in the ancient quarry on Barcombe-hill, have been engraved at the
-expense of my tried and valued friend, John Fenwick, esq., of
-Newcastle-upon-Tyne; and to William Kell, esq., town-clerk of Gateshead,
-with whom I have traversed the Wall from sea to sea, and some portions
-of it repeatedly, I am indebted for the beautiful representation of the
-ancient PONS ÆLII fronting the title-page. My former school-fellow,
-William Woodman, esq., town-clerk of Morpeth, besides otherwise
-assisting me, has caused surveys to be made for my use of not fewer than
-eighty of the strongholds of the Britons still existing on the heights
-north of the Wall. To trace the movements of the brave people whom the
-Romans drove to the more inaccessible portions of the island, would have
-been an interesting sequel to the account of the Roman Wall, but I found
-the undertaking too great for me.
-
-It is with no ordinary emotion that I write the last lines of a work to
-the preparation of which I have devoted the leisure of three years. The
-Wall and I must now part company. Gladly would I have withheld the
-publication of this work for the Horatian period, and have spent the
-interval in renewed investigations; though even then I should have felt
-that I had fallen short of
-
- ‘The height of this great argument;’
-
-other cares, however, now demand my attention.
-
-_Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 1 January, 1851._
-
- LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
-
- THE MOST NOBLE ALGERNON DUKE OF NORTHUMBERLAND,
- Patron of the Society of Antiquaries of
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto and octavo._
-
- THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL GREY, Lord Lieutenant of the County of
- Northumberland.
-
- THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF CARLISLE.
-
- THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD LONDESBOROUGH. _Quarto and Octavo._
-
- THE RIGHT REVEREND THE LORD BISHOP OF DURHAM.
-
- THE HONOURABLE HENRY THOMAS LIDDELL, ESLINGTON,
- NORTHUMBERLAND. _Quarto and octavo._
-
- THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR GEORGE GREY, BART.
-
- SIR JOHN EDWARD SWINBURNE, BART., Capheaton, Northumberland, President
- of the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- SIR JOHN P. BOILEAU BART., F.R.S., Ketteringham, Norfolk, and Upper
- Brook-street, London.
-
- SIR WALTER CALVERLEY TREVELYAN, BART., Wallington, High Sheriff of
- Northumberland.
-
- SIR WILLIAM LAWSON, BART., Brough Hall.
-
- SIR FRANCIS PALGRAVE, K.H., F.R.S. Deputy Keeper of the Public Records,
- London.
-
- WILLIAM ARMSTRONG, ESQ., MAYOR OF NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.
-
- THE REV. R. C. COXE, M.A., VICAR OF NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.
-
- The University of Edinburgh. _Quarto._
-
- The British Archæological Association.
-
- The Archæological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland.
-
- The Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
-
- The Society of Writers to her Majesty’s Signet, Edinburgh.
-
- The Literary and Philosophical Society, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Literary and Philosophical Society, North
- Shields.
-
- The Mechanics’ Institute, Gateshead.
-
- The Mechanics’ Institute, South Shields.
-
- The Scientific and Mechanical Institution,
- Alnwick.
-
- The Edinburgh Select Library.
-
- The Wansbeck Book Club.
-
- Richard Abbatt, esq., Stoke Newington, London.
-
- John Adamson, esq., one of the Secretaries of the Society of
- Antiquaries, Newcastle-upon-Tyne; and one of the Secretaries of the
- Literary and Philosophical Soc., of the same town.
-
- R. Addison, esq., The Friary, Appleby.
-
- Joshua Alder, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- John Anderson, esq., Coxlodge, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Annandale, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Arthur Ashpitel, esq., F.S.A., 5, Crown-court, City, London.
-
- George Clayton Atkinson, esq., Denton,
- Northumberland.
-
- Charles Austin, esq., Brandeston Hall, Suffolk.
-
- William Austin, esq., Egerton House,
- Berkhampstead.
-
- J. C. Backhouse, esq., Blackwell, Darlington.
-
- Charles Baily, esq., F.S.A., one of the Honorary Secretaries of the
- British Archæological Association, Gracechurch-street, London.
-
- J. Bailey, esq., Wood-street, Cheapside, London.
-
- The Rev. Thomas Baker, M.A., Rector of Whitburn, Durham.
-
- Thomas Baker, esq., Official Assignee of the Court of Bankruptcy,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. E. A. Barker, Ludlow.
-
- Thomas Barnes, esq., M.D., Bunker’s-hill,
- Carlisle.
-
- Thomas Bateman, esq., M.D., Yolgrave, Bakewell.
-
- Nathaniel Bates, esq., Milbourne Hall,
- Northumberland.
-
- William Beamont, esq., Warrington.
-
- William Beamont, junior, esq., Trin. Coll. Camb.
-
- Matthew Bell, esq., M.P., Wolsington,
- Northumberland.
-
- The Rev. Meyrick Beebee, Simonburn.
-
- George Bell, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- John Lee Bell, esq., Brampton.
-
- Robert Bell, esq., Nook, Irthington.
-
- Mr. Robert Bell, Dean-street, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Bell, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- James Beman, esq., Cheltenham.
-
- William Bennett, esq., Newport, Salop.
-
- John Brodribb Bergne, esq., F.S.A., Treasurer of the Numismatic
- Society, London.
-
- The Rev. John Besly, D.C.L., Vicar of Long Benton, Northumberland, and
- Rector of Aston-sub-edge, Gloucestershire.
-
- The Rev. Frederick Betham, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Charles William Bigge, esq., Linden, Northumberland.
-
- Matthew R. Bigge, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- The Rev. John Frederic Bigge, Stamfordham, Northumberland.
-
- The Rev. H. J. Bigge, Rockingham, North Hants.
-
- John Cass Birkinshaw, esq., Whickham, Durham.
-
- William Bolam, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and Whitburn.
-
- James Bogle, esq., Glasgow. _Quarto._
-
- William Henry Brockett, esq., Gateshead.
-
- Stamp Brooksbank, esq., The Hermitage, Hexham.
-
- E. J. J. Browell, esq., East Boldon.
-
- Mrs. Bruce, senior, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Two copies._
-
- Mrs. Bruce, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- Miss Williamina Bennett Brace,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- George Barclay Bruce, esq., M. Inst. C.E., Alston.
-
- Mr. Gainsford Bruce, University, Glasgow. _Quarto._
-
- Mr. Thomas Bruce, Leghorn.
-
- John Buchanan, esq., Western Bank of Scotland, Glasgow.
-
- James Buckman, esq., F.L.S., F.G.S., Cirencester.
-
- Thomas Burnet, esq., Summerhill-terrace. _Quarto._
-
- Robert Busby, esq., Alnwick.
-
- Richard Cail, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Duncan Campbell, esq., Lesmahago, Lanarkshire.
-
- Ralph Carr, esq., Dunston-hill, Durham. _Quarto._
-
- John Lowry Carrick, esq., Sandysike, Cumberland.
-
- William Chaffers, jun., esq., F.S.A., London.
-
- Edward Charlton, esq., M.D., one of the Secretaries of the Society of
- Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Henry Charlton, esq., Hesleyside.
-
- Mr. Emerson Charnley, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Chartres, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. Henry Christopherson, Bowdon, near Manchester.
-
- Miss Anne Clayton, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- John Clayton, esq., Town-clerk of _Six copies,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Quarto._
-
- Matthew Clayton, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- Miss Clayton, Chesters, Northumberland.
-
- Nathaniel Clayton, esq., Chesters, Northumberland. _Quarto and octavo._
-
- The Rev. Richard Clayton, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Clayton Clayton, Esq., Lincoln’s Inn,
- London. _Quarto._
-
- Mr. Thomas L. Colbeck, Denton, Northumberland.
-
- The Rev. John Collinson, Rector of Boldon, Durham.
-
- Ralph Compton, esq., Church-court, Old Jewry, London.
-
- John Coppin, esq., North Shields.
-
- Capt. Gustavus Hamilton Coulson, R.N., Newbrough, Northumberland.
-
- John Blenkinsop Coulson, esq., Ochtertyre, Crieff.
-
- John Ross Coulthart, esq., Croft House,
- Ashton-under-Lyne.
-
- Robert Cowen, esq., Carlisle.
-
- George Cowen, esq., Dalston, Carlisle.
-
- Joseph Crawhall, esq., Stagshaw.
-
- William Crighton, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- James Crosby, esq., Church Court, Old Jewry,
- London.
-
- William Daggett, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. John Daglish, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mrs. Daglish, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. William Nicholas Darnell, Rector of Stanhope, Durham.
-
- Matthew Dawes, esq., F.G.S., Westbrooke, Bolton.
-
- James Dearden, esq., F.S.A., The Manor, Rochdale.
-
- Robert Richardson Dees, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Dickson, esq., F.S.A., Clerk of the Peace for Northumberland,
- Alnwick.
-
- Dixon Dixon, esq., Unthank, Northumberland. _Quarto._
-
- J. P. Dodd, esq., LL.D., North Shields.
-
- Mrs. Dodd, Greenwood Manse, Wigton.
-
- The Rev. Isaac Dodgson, Incumbent of Lanercost.
-
- James Menteith Douglas, esq., Stonebyers,
- Lanarkshire. _Quarto._
-
- The Rev. G. J. Duncan, North Shields, Northumberland.
-
- Alfred John Dunkin, esq., Dartford, Kent.
-
- Samuel Edgar, esq., M.D., Berwick.
-
- Robert Elliot, esq., M.D., Carlisle.
-
- Miss Ellis, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Nathaniel Ellison, esq., Commissioner of the Court of Bankruptcy,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. John Ellison, Manchester.
-
- Dennis Embleton, esq., M.D., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- John Errington, esq., High Warden. _Two copies._
-
- The Very Rev. Monsignor Charles Eyre, Haggerston
- Castle.
-
- Joseph Walter King Eyton, esq., F.S.A., Lond. and
- Scot. _Quarto._
-
- Frederick William Fairholt, esq., F.S.A.,
- Brompton, London.
-
- John Brunton Falconar, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Faulkner, esq., Chelsea.
-
- R. M. Fawcett, esq., Cambridge.
-
- The Rev. John Fell, M.A., Huntingdon.
-
- John Fenwick, esq., Campville, North Shields.
- (_deceased_)
-
- John Fenwick, esq., one of the Secretaries of the
- Literary and Philosophical Society,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- John Clerevaulx Fenwick, esq.,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Miss Fergus, Hereford-street, Park-lane, London.
-
- William Ferguson, esq., Hill-street, Glasgow.
-
- Robert Ferguson, esq., Shadwell Lodge, Carlisle.
-
- Mr. John Forrest, Ellison-terrace,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Finley, esq., Durham.
-
- William John Forster, esq., Tynemouth. _Quarto._
-
- Messrs. Finlay and Charlton, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Hugh Watson Friend, esq., Harbut Lodge, Alston.
-
- J. H. Fryer, esq., Whitley House.
-
- John Gainsford, esq., Brighton.
-
- Mrs. Gainsford, Cheltenham.
-
- Joseph Garnett, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. Garrett, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Benjamin Gilpin, esq.
-
- Robert Mortimer Glover, esq., M.D., F.R.S.E.,
- Newcastle.
-
- William Glover, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- T. H. Graham, esq., Edmond Castle.
-
- John Graham, esq., M.D., Brampton.
-
- Richard Grainger, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Gray, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Benjamin Green, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- John Grey, esq., Dilston, Northumberland. _Three copies._
-
- Henry Guy, esq., Gateshead.
-
- M. E. Hadfield, esq., Sheffield.
-
- Charles Hall, esq., Ansty, Blandford, Dorset.
-
- Mr. William Hall, Milton Station, Cumberland.
-
- Mr. George Hardcastle, Sunderland. _Quarto._
-
- Mr. Anthony Harrison, Hexham.
-
- Thomas Emerson Headlam, esq., M.P.
-
- Thomas Hedley, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Ions Hewison, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- S. Heywood, esq., Walshaw-hall, Bury, Lancashire.
-
- William Hill, esq., Edinburgh.
-
- John Hodgson Hinde, esq., Acton House,
- Northumberland. _Quarto._
-
- Robert Hodgson, esq., Salkeld Hall, near Penrith.
-
- Joseph Hope, esq., Carlisle.
-
- John Houseman, esq., M.D., M.R.C.S. L. and E.,
- Newcastle.
-
- Richard Hoyle, esq., Denton Hall, Northumberland.
-
- The Rev. J. Hudson, Incumbent of Hexham.
-
- The Rev. Abraham Hume, LL.D., Liverpool.
-
- Henry Hunt, esq., Birtley, Durham.
-
- Mr. W. S. Irving, B.A., Blencow Grammar School, Cumberland.
- Robert Ingham, esq., Westoe, Durham.
-
- Henry Ingledew, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Ions, esq., Mus. Bac., Oxon.,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Henry Jackson, esq., Sheffield. _Quarto._
-
- J. M. Jessop, esq., King’s College, London. _Quarto._
-
- George Johnson, esq., Willington, Northumberland. _Quarto._
-
- John Johnson, esq., Killingworth, Northumberland.
-
- Robert Johnson, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
-
- William Kell, esq., Town Clerk of Gateshead. _Quarto and octavo._
-
- Miss Kemp, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Rev. John Kenrick, York.
-
- Miss Lamb, Kylesike Hill, Brampton.
-
- Richard Lambert, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Messrs. M. and M. W. Lambert, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Richard Holland Law, esq., Brunswick-square,
- London.
-
- Robert Leadbitter, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- John Leathead, esq., Gallowgate.
-
- Thomas Carr Lietch, esq., Town Clerk of North
- Shields.
-
- Charles J. Lamb, esq., Ryton, Durham.
-
- William Hylton Longstaffe, esq., Gateshead. _Quarto._
-
- M. A. Lower, esq., Lewes.
-
- Nicholas Lowes, esq., Allansgreen, Northumberland.
-
- David Mackinlay, esq., North Shields. _Quarto and octavo._
-
- John Mackinlay, esq., Comptroller of Customs,
- Whitehaven.
-
- Henry Mac Lauchlan, esq., Printing-house-square,
- Blackfriars.
-
- J. M'Intosh, esq., Milton Abbey, near Blandford, Dorsetshire.
- John M'Intosh, esq., Lansdowne Crescent, Glasgow.
-
- Mr. Luke Mackey, 67, King-street, South Shields.
-
- The Rev. W. H. Massie, Rector of St.
- Mary-on-the-Hill, Chester.
-
- Joseph Mayer, esq., F.S.A., Liverpool.
-
- Michael Meredith, esq., Finsbury, London.
-
- Samuel Mitchell, esq., The Mount, near Sheffield.
-
- John Moore, esq., West Coker, Yeovil, Somerset.
-
- George Gill Mounsey, esq., Castletown, Carlisle.
-
- J. B. Musgrave, esq., London.
-
- The Rev. G. M. Nelson, Bodicot Grange, Banbury.
-
- Joseph Nelson, esq., Waterloo, Oldham.
-
- The Rev. Robert Nelson, Edinburgh.
-
- George Nelson, esq., Fernhill, Pendleton,
- Manchester.
-
- Charles H. Newmarch, esq., Cirencester.
-
- The Rev. William Nichol, Jedburgh. _Quarto._
-
- M. O'Connor, esq., 4, Berners street, Oxford-street, London.
-
- Messrs. Ogle and Son, Glasgow.
-
- Mr. George A. Oliver, Rye-hill,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mrs. W. H. Ord, Riding, Gateshead.
-
- Robert Ormston, esq., Saville-row, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. Lewis Paige, M.A., Newcastle.
-
- Mr. Joseph Parker, Brampton.
-
- George Paton, esq., A.R.A., London.
-
- Hugh Lee Pattinson, esq., Scots House, near
- Boldon.
-
- William Pattinson, esq., Wigton.
-
- Mrs. Peart, North Shields.
-
- George Hare Philipson, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Robert Plummer, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. James Pringle, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. Edward Pruddah, Hexham.
-
- Mr. William Pruddah, Hexham.
-
- Henry Glasford Potter, esq., F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Jonathan Priestman, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Ramsay, esq., M,A., F.S.S., F.P.S., Professor of Humanity in
- the University of Glasgow; Corresponding Member of the
- Archæological Society of Athens.
-
- Thomas Ramshaw, esq., Brampton.
-
- Robert Rawlinson, esq., Superintending Inspector
- of the General Board of Health, Gwydyr House,
- Whitehall. _Quarto._
-
- The Rev. Wm. Rees, M.A., Carlisle.
-
- Mr. C. F. Reid, Grey-street, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. Christian Bruce Reid, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. Edw. Richardson, Summerhill Grove, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thos. Riddell, esq., Felton Park. _Quarto._
-
- Mr. George Bouchier Richardson,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Jonathan Richardson, esq., Benwell House.
-
- Thomas Richardson, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- George Rippon, esq., North Shields.
-
- Thomas Robertson, esq., Alnwick.
-
- Mr. Thomas Robinson, Collingwood-street, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. Robert Robinson, Pilgrim street, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- William Robson, esq., Paradise,
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
-
- Mr. Robert Stephen Salmon, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Richard Burdon Sanderson, jun., esq., West Jesmond, Newcastle.
-
- Mr. William Sang, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- John Sang, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Master John Fenwick Schofield, 11, Ellison-place, Newcastle.
-
- Miss Agnes Percy Schofield, 11, Ellison-place, Newcastle.
-
- The Rev. T. H. Scott, Canon of Durham, Rector of Whitfield.
-
- Mr. Hudson Scott, Carlisle.
-
- J. S. Donaldson Selby, esq., Cheswick House, Northumberland.
-
- George Selby, esq., Belle Vue, Alnwick.
-
- Isaac Sheffield, esq., London.
-
- John Sheffield, esq., Carlisle.
-
- Thomas Sheffield, esq., Exeter.
-
- Mr. George Robertson Shield, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Charles Roach Smith, esq., F.S.A., Lond., and Scot., Honorary
- Secretary of the Numismatic Society, Liverpool-street, City.
-
- William George Smith, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. George Hunt Smyttan, Charlton Hall,
- Alnwick.
-
- S. Reynolds Solly, esq., M.A., F.R.S., F.S.A., Serge Hill, Herts.
-
- Thomas Sopwith, esq., F.R.S., F.L.S., Allenheads,
- Northd. _Quarto._
-
- Philip Holmes Stanton, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Stephens, esq., North Shields.
-
- Robert Stephenson, esq., M.P., F.R.S., London. _Quarto._
-
- James Cochrane Stevenson, esq., South Shields.
-
- George Waugh Stable, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- John George Stoker, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Robert Stokoe, esq., Hexham.
-
- John Storey, esq., F.B.S.E., Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- Mr. John Storey, jun., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- R. W. Swan, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- George Tate, esq., F.G.S., Alnwick.
-
- John Taylor, esq., M.A., Edinburgh.
-
- Mr. John Thompson, Bloomfield-terrace, Gateshead.
-
- Thomas Thorp, esq., Alnwick, Northumberland.
-
- John Thurnam, esq., M.D., London.
-
- Mr. Charles Thurnam, Carlisle.
-
- Arthur Trollope, esq., Lincoln.
-
- Charles Tucker, esq., F.S.A., one of Honorary Secretaries of the
- Archæological Institute, 26, Suffolk-street, London.
-
- W. B. D. D. Turnbull, esq., Sec. Society of Antiquaries, Scotland.
-
- Mr. Robert Turner, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. John Ventress, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- Mr. Robert Vint, Sunderland.
-
- John Waldie, esq., Hendersyde Park, Kelso.
-
- Ralph Walters, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Robert Walters, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- James Wardell, esq., Leeds.
-
- Charles Warne, esq., Milbourne St. Andrews, Blandford, Dorset.
-
- Mr. Christopher Watson, Marsh House, Easton, Cumberland.
-
- Joseph Watson, esq., Gresham-place, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Albert Way, esq., M.A., F.S.A., one of the Hon. Secretaries of the
- Archæological Institute, 26, Suffolk-street, Pall-Mall-East.
-
- Captain James Dent Weatherley, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Thomas Weddell, esq., F.R.A.S., Addiscombe.
-
- Robert M. Weeks, esq., Ryton, Durham.
-
- Matthew Wheatley, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. Richard Cuthbertson Whinfield, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Mr. G. H. Whinfield, Pilgrim-street, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Alfred White, esq., Curator and Registrar of the British Archæological
- Association, Tyndale-place, Islington.
-
- Robert White, esq., Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- The Rev. Robt. Hopper Williamson, Rector of
- Hurworth. _Quarto._
-
- John Williamson, esq., Glasgow.
-
- Mr. John Heron Wilson, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- Daniel Wilson, esq., Hon. Sec. Soc. of Antiquaries, Scotland.
-
- Mr. David Hamilton Wilson, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. _Quarto._
-
- Charles Winn, esq., Nostell, Wakefield. _Quarto._
-
- William Woodman, esq., Town-clerk, Morpeth.
-
- M. Wright, esq., Trinity House, London.
-
- Thomas Wright, esq., M.A., F.S.A., Corresponding Member of the National
- Institute of France, etc. 24, Sydney-street, Brompton.
-
- Edgar Garston, K.S., Liverpool.
-
- Mrs. Grey, Dilston House, Northumberland.
-
- George Patten, esq., A.R.A., London.
-
- Mr. William Richardson, 71, Percy-street, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
- CONTENTS
- AND
- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
- _Page._
-
- 1. FRONTISPIECE—PONS ÆLII restored.
-
- The site of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the PONS ÆLII of
- the Romans, is here shewn. The ground on which it
- stands, rising abruptly from the bed of the river
- Tyne, to the height of about an hundred feet, is
- cut into three very remarkable tongues of land by
- four ravines, permeated by as many streams, which
- all disembogue in the Tyne. The easternmost and
- largest of these tongues of land is that formed by
- the Ouseburn and Pandon-dean; the smallest by
- Pandon-dean and the Lort-burn; and the
- westernmost, wheron stands the castle, and
- formerly the Roman station, by the Lort-burn and
- Skinner-burn. Extensive suburbs probably occupied
- all these eminences.
-
- 2. TITLE—Modern Buildings on the site of PONS ÆLII.
-
- The Norman keep of the Castle of
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne; the Church of St. Nicholas;
- and the court-house for the county of
- Northumberland, built upon the site of the
- south-east corner of the station of PONS ÆLII.
-
- 3. Plan of the course of the Roman Wall _facing_ 1
-
- PART I.—AN EPITOME OF THE HISTORY OF ROMAN 1
- OCCUPATION IN BRITAIN.
-
- 4. Initial letter—altar from Corbridge 1
-
- 5. Coin of Claudius—DE BRITANNIS 4
-
- 6. Coin of Vespasian—ROMA RESURGES 6
-
- 7. Coin of Hadrian—ADVENTUS BRITANNIÆ 11
-
- 8. Coin of Hadrian—BRITANNIA 12
-
- 9. Coin of Severus—VICTORIÆ BRITTANICÆ 19
-
- 10. Coin of Carausius—reverse, a galley 22
-
- 11. Coin of Carausius—reverse, a lion 22
-
- 12. Coin of Magnentius—reverse, Christian monogram 24
-
- 13. Base of column—Housesteads 24
-
-
- PART II.—A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE LINE OF THE 43
- WALL.
-
- 14. Initial Letter—Roman Nails 43
-
- 15. Plan of Barrier between CILURNUM and MAGNA—Plan of _facing_
- CILURNUM[1] and contiguous Works—Plans of 45
- individual Stations
-
- 16. Section of Works, near eighteenth mile-stone 52
-
- 17. Section of Works, west of Carraw 52
-
- 18. Mural Slab—ALA II. ASTURUM 61
-
- 19. Altar to Fortune—COH. I. BATAVORUM 62
-
- 20. Altar to Jupiter—COH. I. TUNGRORUM 63
-
- 21. Written-Rock, on the river Gelt _facing_
- 81
-
- 22. Letters on the Written-Rock 82
-
- 23. Form of Wall-Stone 83
-
- 24. Junction of the west wall of Birdoswald with the 84
- Wall
-
- 25-27. Broaching of the Wall Stones 85
-
- 28-31. Marks on the Stones 86
-
- 32. Sections and Elevations of the Masonry of the Wall _facing_
- 89
-
- 33. Herring-bone Masonry 91
-
- 34. Written-Rock at Fallow-field-fell 102
-
- PART III.-LOCAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORKS. 103
-
- 35. Initial Letters—Balusters from the Wall 103
-
- 36. Altar to Jupiter—COH. IV. LINGONUM 109
-
- 37. Plan of Wallsend, SEGEDUNUM; Section of Mountain _facing_
- and Works at Bradley 113
-
- 38. Wallsend, looking East _facing_
- 115
-
- 39. Plan of PONS ÆLII _facing_
- 126
-
- 40. Mercury, PONS ÆLII 129
-
- 41-44. Coins of Hadrian found in the Bridge, PONS ÆLII 131
-
- 45. Coin of Severus found in Bridge, PONS ÆLII 131
-
- 46. Slab to the Campestral Mothers 140
-
- 47. Altar to Mars 142
-
- 48. Altar to Mars 143
-
- 49. Fragment of the Wall, near Denton 145
-
- 50. The Works at Heddon-on-the Wall _facing_
- 149
-
- 51. The Works near Carr-hill _facing_
- 156
-
- 52. Mural Slab—LEG. II. AUG. 163
-
- 53. Slab—FULGUR DIVOM 164
-
- 54. The Wall at Brunton _facing_
- 169
-
- 55. Remains of Roman Bridge over North Tyne _facing_
- 170
-
- 56. Miscellaneous Antiquities, Chesters, CILURNUM _facing_
- 170
-
- 57. Vault at CILURNUM 173
-
- 58. Hypocausts at CILURNUM 174
-
- 59. Ground Plan of Hypocausts, CILURNUM 175
-
- 60. River God, CILURNUM 178
-
- 61. Hypocaust, CILURNUM _facing_
- 178
-
- 62. Funereal Slab, CILURNUM 184
-
- 63. Funereal Slab of Horse Soldier, CILURNUM 185
-
- 64. Slab—ALA II. ASTURUM 186
-
- 65. Statue of Cybele, CILURNUM 189
-
- 66. Group of Carved Stones, CILURNUM 190
-
- 67. Miscellaneous Antiquities, CILURNUM _facing_
- 191
-
- 68. Samian Ware _facing_
- 192
-
- 69. Roman Spears, etc. _facing_
- 192
-
- 70. The Works, Tepper-moor _facing_
- 197
-
- 71. Slab—COH. I. BATAVORUM 198
-
- 72. Approach to Sewingshields _facing_
- 200
-
- 73. Busy Gap 208
-
- 74. Junction of West Wall of Housesteads, BORCOVICUS, 216
- with the Wall
-
- 75. Ground Plan of Gateway, Housesteads 216
-
- 76. Outside View of the West Portal, Housesteads 217
-
- 77. Inside View of West Portal, Housesteads 217
-
- 78. Housesteads, BORCOVICUS, from the East _facing_
- 220
-
- 79. Broken Columns, BORCOVICUS _facing_
- 225
-
- 80. Sculptured Figures, BORCOVICUS _facing_
- 225
-
- 81. Sculptured Figures, etc. _facing_
- 225
-
- 82. Figure of Victory 226
-
- 83. Sepulchral Slab to a young Physician 227
-
- 84. Slab to Hadrian, Bradley 232
-
- 85. Slab to Hadrian, Milking-gap 234
-
- 86. Altar to Fortune, Chesterholm 237
-
- 87. Hypocaust Pillar 238
-
- 88. Milestone at Chesterholm, VINDOLANA _facing_
- 239
-
- 89. Altar to Genius of the Pretorium 240
-
- 90. Symbol, LEG. XX. 241
-
- 91. Part of Slab to Hadrian 241
-
- 92. Coping-stone, Roman ‘broaching’ 242
-
- 93. The Crags, West of Craglough _facing_
- 243
-
- 94. The Wall at Steel-rig _facing_
- 244
-
- 95. Mural Stone, LEG. XX. V.V. 247
-
- 96. Mile-castle at Cawfield _facing_
- 248
-
- 97. Part of Slab to Hadrian 251
-
- 98. Tablet to Hadrian 256
-
- 99. Plan of ancient Water-course, Great Chesters, _facing_
- ÆSICA 257
-
- 100. Nine-nicks of Thirlwall 265
-
- 101. Lamp, Fibula, Shears, and Compasses _facing_
- 268
-
- 102. Stone Effigy 272
-
- 103. Section of Works near Wallend 273
-
- 104. Slab to Hadrian, by LEG. XX. V. V. 274
-
- 105. Altar to Jupiter, by COH. I. AEL. DAC. 278
-
- 106. West Gateway, Birdoswald, AMBOGLANNA 280
-
- 107. Mural Stone, LEG. VI. V. F. 281
-
- 108. Birdoswald, western Rampart _facing_
- 282
-
- 109. Section of Works, Wallbours 283
-
- 110. Coin of Severus, JULIA 289
-
- 111. Coin of Caracalla 289
-
- 112. Coin of Geta 289
-
- 113. Altar to Jupiter, COH. II. TUNGR. 290
-
- 114. View of Pigeon Crag 292
-
- 115. Mural Stone, LEG. II. AUG. 294
-
- 116. Altar—_ob res trans vallum prospere gestas_ 302
-
- 117. Bowness _facing_
- 313
-
- 118. Monument to Edward I. 314
-
- PART IV.—THE SUPPORTING STATIONS OF THE WALL. 315
-
- 119. Initial A, and Mural Slab, Risingham 315
-
- 120. Tablet, GYRUM CUMBAS 319
-
- 121. Tablet found at Jarrow 323
-
- 122. Corbridge Lanx 335
-
- 123. Altar to Astarte 338
-
- 124. Crypt of Hexham Abbey Church 339
-
- 125. Slab to Severus at Hexham 340
-
- 126. Genius of the Wall 353
-
- 127. Altar to Jupiter for the safety of Severus 360
-
- 128. Altar to Jupiter, Maryport 363
-
- 129. Slab to Hadrian, Moresby 367
-
- 130. Symbol of LEG. XX. 368
-
- PART V.—THE QUESTION—WHO BUILT THE 369
- WALL?—DISCUSSED.
-
- 131. Initial O, bronze ornament found at BORCOVICUS 369
-
- 132. Slab, LEG. II. and LEG. XX. 392
-
- PART VI.—MISCELLANEOUS ANTIQUITIES FOUND ON THE 393
- LINE OF THE WALL.
-
- 133. Initial M, bronze ornament, an Eagle, found at 393
- MAGNA
-
- 134. Altar, DEO VETRI 395
-
- 135. Large Altar to Jupiter 397
-
- 136. Altar, GENIO LOCI, etc. 399
-
- 137. Altar, DEO COCIDIO 401
-
- 138. Altar, DEO BELATUCADRO 401
-
- 139. Altar to Minerva 402
-
- 140. Altar to Fortune 403
-
- 141. Altar to Mithras 404
-
- 142. Altar to the Sun 405
-
- 143. Attendant of Mithras 406
-
- 144. Altar to Mithras 407
-
- 145. Zodiacal Tablet, BORCOVICUS 409
-
- 146. Pine-apple Ornament, etc., CILURNUM 410
-
- 147. Presumed Mithraic Sculpture, CILURNUM 410
-
- 148. Altar to Apollo, Cawfield mile-castle 411
-
- 149. Inscription to the Syrian Goddess, MAGNA 412
-
- 150. Altar to Silvanus, AMBOGLANNA 413
-
- 151. Altar to the Nymphs, HABITANCUM 414
-
- 152. Altar to the Gods of the Mountains, VINDOBALA 415
-
- 153. Altar to Epona, MAGNA 415
-
- 154. Altar, sculptured with a Toad, CILURNUM 416
-
- 155. Altar to Viteres, Thirlwall-castle 416
-
- 156. Altar to Viteres, CONDERCUM 417
-
- 157. Altar to the Dea Hamia, Thirlwall-castle 417
-
- 158. Altar to the Three Lamiæ, CONDERCUM 418
-
- 159-60. Egyptian Idols 418
-
- 161. Altar to the Transmarine Mothers, HABITANCUM 419
-
- 162. Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Netherby 420
-
- 163. Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Netherby 420
-
- 164. Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Netherby 420
-
- 165. Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Nether-hall 421
-
- 166. Sepulchral Altar to the Manes of Fabia Honorata, 426
- CILURNUM
-
- 167. Sepulchral Slab to the Manes of Aurelia Faia, 428
- MAGNA
-
- 168. Sepulchral Slab to the Memory of Cornelius Victor, 429
- VINDOLANA
-
- 169. Centurial Stone, COH. V. CÆCILII PROCULI, CILURNUM 430
-
- 170. Centurial Stone, CILURNUM 430
-
- 171. Vessel, in which the Thorngrafton Coins were found 434
-
- 172-224. The Thorngrafton Coins, imperial, consular, and 435-441
- others
-
- 225. Samian Ware, from Wallsend and Lanchester _facing_
- 445
-
- 226. Bronze Vessels _facing_ 445
-
- 227. Iron Pot, Bronze Vessel, Tongs, etc. _facing_
- 445
-
- 228. Soles of Sandals, etc. _facing_ 445
-
- 229. Tail piece—ROMÆ ÆTERNÆ FORTUNÆ REDUCI 450
-
------
-
-Footnote 1:
-
- The Plan represents the position of each stone now remaining in the
- river. It is the result of a series of observations made during the
- summer of 1850, by Mr. Robert Elliot, of Wall. Most of the stones have
- luis-holes.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- _PLATE I_
-
-[Illustration:
-
- _A. Reid, Sc 117, Pilgrim S^t. Newcastle._
- ~Plan~
- _OF THE COURSE OF THE_
- ROMAN WALL
- _FROM THE_
- TYNE TO THE SOLWAY.
-]
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
- ~The Roman Barrier of the
- Lower Isthmus.~
-
- PART I.
- AN EPITOME OF THE HISTORY OF ROMAN OCCUPATION IN BRITAIN.
-
-IN no country of the world are there such evident traces of the march of
-Roman legions as in Britain. In the northern parts of England
-especially, the footprints of the Empire are very distinct.
-Northumberland, as Wallis long ago remarked, is Roman ground. Every
-other monument in Britain yields in importance to THE WALL. As this
-work, in grandeur of conception, is worthy of the Mistress of Nations,
-so, in durability of structure, is it the becoming offspring of the
-Eternal City.
-
-A dead wall may seem to most a very unpromising subject. The stones are
-indeed inanimate, but he who has a head to think, and a heart to feel,
-will find them suggestive of bright ideas and melting sympathies; though
-dead themselves, they will be the cause of mental life in him. A large
-part of the knowledge which we possess of the early history of our
-country has been dug out of the ground. The spade and the plough of the
-rustic have often exposed documents, which have revealed the movements,
-as well as the modes of thought and feeling, of those who have slept in
-the dust for centuries. The casual wanderer by the relics of the Vallum
-and the Wall, may not succeed in culling facts that are new to the
-Historian, but he will probably get those vivid glances into Roman
-character, and acquire that personal interest in Roman story, which will
-give to the prosaic records of chroniclers, a reality, and a charm,
-which they did not before possess.
-
-As a natural introduction to the subject, and as a means of preparing
-for some discussions which are to follow, it may be well briefly to
-trace the progress of the Roman arms in Britain, from the arrival of
-Cæsar on our shores, to the eventual abandonment of the island.
-
-[Sidenote: EARLIEST NOTICES OF THE BRITISH ISLES.]
-
-It is curious to observe, that the curtain of British history is raised
-by some of the earliest and greatest of profane writers. Herodotus, who
-wrote about the year B.C. 450, mentions the "Cassiterides, from which
-tin is procured"; Aristotle, about the year B.C. 340, expressly names
-the islands of Albion and Ierne; and Polybius, about the year B.C. 160,
-makes a distinct reference to the "Britannic Isles." To Julius Cæsar,
-however, we are indebted, for the first detailed account of Britain and
-its inhabitants. On 26 Aug. B.C. 55, that renowned conqueror landed in
-Britain, with a force of about ten thousand men. Both on that occasion,
-and on a second attempt, which, with a larger force, he made the year
-following, he met with a warm reception from the savage islanders. Tides
-and tempests seconded the efforts of the natives, and great Julius bade
-Britain a final farewell, without erecting any fortress in it, or
-leaving any troops to secure his conquest. Tacitus says, that he did not
-conquer Britain, but only shewed it to the Romans. Horace, calling upon
-Augustus to achieve the conquest, denominates it 'untouched'—
-
- Intactus aut Britannus ut descenderet
- Sacra catenatus via.
-
-and Propertius, in the same spirit, describes it as ‘unconquered,’
-_invictus_. There is, therefore, little exaggeration in the lines of
-Shakspere—
-
- ... A kind of conquest
- Cæsar made here; but made not here his brag
- Of, came, and saw, and overcame: with shame
- (The first that ever touched him) he was carried
- From off our coast, twice beaten; and his shipping
- (Poor ignorant baubles!) on our terrible seas,
- Like egg-shells moved upon their surges, cracked
- As easily 'gainst our rocks.
-
-[Sidenote: PLAUTIUS AND CLAUDIUS VISIT BRITAIN.]
-
-During the reigns of Augustus, Tiberius, and Caligula, Britain was
-unmolested by foreign invasion.
-
-At the invitation of a discontented Briton, Claudius resolved to attempt
-the reduction of the island. In the year of our Lord 43, he sent Aulus
-Plautius, with four legions and their auxiliaries, amounting in all to
-about fifty thousand men, into Britain. It was with difficulty that the
-troops could be induced to engage in the undertaking. They were
-unwilling, as Dion Cassius informs us, "to engage in a war, as it were,
-_out of the world_." The fears of the soldiery were not without
-foundation. The Britons, though their inferiors in discipline and arms,
-were not behind them in valour and spirit, whilst, in a knowledge of the
-country they had an important advantage.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The year following, Claudius personally engaged in the war. He advanced
-into the country, as far as Camelodunum (Colchester), and after some
-sanguinary contests, received the submission of the natives in that
-vicinity. The estimation in which Britain, even at this time, was held,
-was such, that the Senate, on learning what he had achieved, surnamed
-him BRITANNICUS, granted him a triumph, and voted him annual games. The
-event was of sufficient importance, to be celebrated on the current coin
-of the day. Several gold and silver pieces have come down to our times,
-bearing on the reverse, a triumphal arch, on which is inscribed the
-words DE BRITANN_is_—Over the Britons. This is the first occasion on
-which allusion is made to Britain, on the coinage of Rome.
-
-[Sidenote: ITS PARTIAL SUBJUGATION. BOADICEA.]
-
-On the return of Claudius, the supreme command again devolved upon his
-lieutenant, Aulus Plautius, who succeeded in bringing into complete
-subjection, the tribes occupying the southern portion of the island. In
-this expedition, Vespasian, afterwards emperor, acted as second in
-command to Plautius. Titus, the son of Vespasian, accompanied his
-father. Thus was it, in Britain, that the destroyers of Jerusalem were
-unconsciously trained for inflicting upon God’s chosen, but sinful
-people, the chastisements of His displeasure.
-
-Ostorius Scapula, A.D. 50, succeeded to the command in Britain. The
-brave Silures, headed by Caractacus, rendered his progress slow and
-bloody. Ostorius at length sank under the harassing nature of his
-duties.
-
-In the reign of Nero, Roman affairs in Britain received a severe check.
-The Iceni, led on by their enraged queen Boadicea, threw off the yoke
-and attacked the principal stations of the enemy. London, which was then
-an important commercial city, fell, upon the first assault, and Verulam
-(near the modern St. Albans) shared the same fate. The British
-warrior-queen sullied the splendour of her exploits by her cruelty;
-seventy thousand Romans, or adherents of the government of Rome, fell
-under her hands. Suetonius, the Roman governor, collecting his forces,
-gave battle to the queen and routed her. A frightful carnage ensued; of
-the amazing number of two hundred and thirty thousand men of which the
-British forces are said to have consisted, not less than eighty thousand
-fell.
-
-During the remainder of the reign of Nero, and the short rule of his
-three successors, Galba, Otho, and Vitellius, no advance was made in the
-conquest of Britain. In the strifes of the rival emperors, it was
-however destined to bear its part. Eight thousand soldiers were drafted
-from it to fight under the banners of Vitellius. Thus early, as Dr.
-Giles well observes, was this island, whose position in the bosom of the
-ocean indicates a peaceful policy, induced to bear the brunt of
-continental quarrels.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Sidenote: VESPASIAN ASSUMES THE PURPLE.]
-
-When Vespasian assumed the purple, a new era dawned upon the empire.
-This fact is well indicated upon a coin struck at this period. In the
-engraving, taken from a specimen found on the Wall, the emperor is
-observed raising a prostrate female from the ground (doubtless Rome),
-whilst Mars looks approvingly on; the inspiring motto “ROMA
-RESURGES”—_Rome thou shalt rise again_,—encircles the group.[2]
-Vespasian appointed Petilius Cerealis his proprætor in Britain, who in
-five years succeeded in adding the Brigantes, a powerful tribe, to the
-subjects of the empire. Julius Frontinus was his successor, who, in the
-three years of his government, nearly subdued the warlike nation of the
-Silures.
-
-[Sidenote: HIS PROPRÆTORS SUBJUGATE THE ISLAND.]
-
-One hundred and thirty-three years had now elapsed since the first
-descent of Cæsar, and thirty-five years, since Claudius had claimed the
-honour of conquering Britain, and yet but a fraction of the island was
-in subjection to Roman power. Nothing, as Dr. Giles well remarks, can
-more strongly shew the stubborn spirit of the natives, than their
-protracted resistance to the invaders. Battle after battle had been
-lost; but many of these tribes were still unsubdued, and several even
-undiscovered.
-
-[Sidenote: THE OPERATIONS OF AGRICOLA.]
-
-But the reputation of all preceding governors, was obscured by a greater
-man than they. Cnæus Julius Agricola had served in Britain under some
-preceding commanders; so that when he landed as governor in the year 78
-he was prepared to act with all the promptitude which a knowledge of the
-country and the people could give him. During the eight years of his
-rule, he subjugated the remaining tribes of southern Britain, carried
-his arms into the northern section of the island, and drove, in
-successive campaigns, the natives before him, until at length, in the
-battle of the Grampians, he paralyzed their strength for a while. He
-circumnavigated the whole island, and planted the Roman standard upon
-the Orkneys. He built walls and fortresses in all places where they were
-required, and softened the fierceness of the barbarians, by fostering a
-taste for letters and the luxuries of the Eternal City. But it is
-necessary to trace the movements of Agricola, with some of the detail
-with which they are given in the pages of Tacitus.
-
- The summer of A.D. 78 was far spent when he arrived; yet before going
- into winter quarters, he attacked and subdued the Ordovices, and
- brought the sacred isle of Anglesea a second time to obedience. The
- respite from arms which the following winter afforded, was employed by
- the general in the most useful and necessary purposes. Being well
- acquainted with the temper of the inhabitants of the province, and
- having learnt from the conduct and experience of others, that what is
- gained by force avails little, where oppressions and grievances
- follow, he determined to put an immediate end to all the causes of the
- war. He began by checking and regulating the affairs of his own
- household, correcting the abuses that had crept into the army,
- promoting impartially those who deserved it; while at the same time he
- redressed the grievances of the inhabitants, made an equitable
- distribution of the public burthens, and abolished all hurtful
- monopolies. By the prosecution of measures so salutary as these, six
- months had scarcely elapsed, when affairs in Britain were entirely
- changed, and assumed a bright and settled aspect.
-
-His second campaign, that of the year 79, was probably occupied in
-subduing the ancient tenants of the LOWER ISTHMUS of the island.
-
- On the approach of summer, he re-assembled his army, and in advancing,
- failed not to excite a proper spirit of emulation among the troops,
- praising those who best observed their several duties, and checking
- such as were remiss. He himself chose the ground for encamping; the
- marshes, firths, and difficult places, he always examined first; and,
- allowing the enemy no respite, he continually harassed them with
- sudden incursions and ravages. Having alarmed and terrified them
- sufficiently, he next tried the effect of good usage and the
- allurements of peace. By this wise and prudent conduct, several
- communities, which till then had maintained their independence,
- submitted to the Romans, gave hostages, and suffered garrisons and
- fortresses to be placed among them. These strongholds he established
- with such judgment, as effectually secured all those parts of Britain
- which had then been visited by the Romans.
-
- The following winter was employed in civilizing and polishing the rude
- inhabitants, who, living wild and dispersed over the country, were
- thence ever restless and easily instigated to war. At first, they were
- prevailed upon to associate more together, and for this end were
- instructed in the art of building houses, temples, and places of
- public resort. The sons of their chiefs were taught the liberal
- sciences; hence it was no unusual thing to see those who lately
- scorned the Roman language, become admirers of its eloquence. By
- degrees, the customs, manners, and dress of their conquerors, became
- familiar to them, they acquired a taste for a life of inactivity and
- ease, and at length were caught by the charms and incitements of
- luxury and vice. By such as judged of things from their external
- appearance only, all this was styled politeness and humanity, while,
- in reality, Agricola was effectually enslaving them, and imperceptibly
- rivetting their chains.
-
- During the third year of his command, he pushed his conquests
- northwards, and carried his devastations as far as the mouth of the
- Tay (_Taus_.) Here, the enemy were struck with so much terror, that
- they durst not attack the Roman army, though it was greatly distressed
- by the severities of the climate. Agricola, in order to secure
- possession of these advanced conquests, again erected forts in the
- most commodious situations; and so judiciously was this done, that
- none of them were ever taken by force, abandoned through fear, or
- given up on terms of capitulation. Each fort defended itself, and,
- against any long siege, was constantly supplied with provisions for a
- year. Thus the several garrisons not only passed the winter in perfect
- security, but were likewise enabled, from these strongholds, to make
- frequent excursions against the enemy, who could not, as heretofore,
- repair the losses they had sustained in summer, by the successes
- usually attending their winter expeditions.
-
-The forts here referred to, are probably those, which were drawn along
-the UPPER ISTHMUS of the island, extending from the Firth of Forth to
-the Firth of Clyde, and which were afterwards connected by the wall of
-Antoninus Pius.
-
-This is rendered apparent from what follows:—
-
- Agricola employed the fourth summer (A.D. 81) in settling and further
- securing the country he had subdued. Here, had it been compatible with
- the bravery of the army, or if the glory of the Roman name would have
- permitted it, there had been found a boundary to their conquests in
- Britain; for the tide, entering from opposite seas, and flowing far
- into the country by the rivers Glotta and Bodotria, their heads are
- only separated by a narrow neck of land, which was occupied by
- garrisons. Of all on this side, the Romans were already masters, the
- enemy being driven, as it were, into another island.
-
-[Sidenote: AGRICOLA IS RECALLED.]
-
-It is not necessary to pursue the operations of Agricola further. In the
-seventh summer he defeated Galgacus on the flanks of the Grampians. The
-Roman power was now at its height. Agricola, probably from motives of
-jealousy, was recalled by the emperor Domitian, and as his successors
-were not men of the same vigour as himself, the barbarians were in a
-condition, at least to dispute the pretensions of their conquerors.
-
-[Sidenote: HADRIAN ARRIVES IN BRITAIN.]
-
-In the year 120—thirty-five years after the recall of Agricola—affairs
-in Britain had fallen into such confusion, as to require the presence of
-the emperor HADRIAN, who had assumed the imperial purple three years
-before. He did not attempt to regain the conquests which Agricola had
-made in Scotland, but prudently sought to make the line of forts, which
-that general had constructed in his second campaign, the limit of his
-empire. With this object in view, he drew a wall across the island—the
-BARRIER of the LOWER ISTHMUS. The testimony of Spartian, the historian
-of his reign, though brief, is decisive. Hadrian, says he, visited
-Britain, when he corrected many things, and first drew a wall (_murus_)
-eighty miles in length, to divide the barbarians from the Romans.
-
-The arrival in Britain, of Hadrian, one of Rome’s greatest generals, was
-thought an event of sufficient importance to be commemorated in the
-currency of the empire. The large brass coin, here represented, was
-struck by decree of the Senate in the year 121.[3]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Sidenote: THE BARRIER OF THE UPPER ISTHMUS.]
-
-The plans and the prowess of the emperor were thought to have
-effectually secured those portions of the island, which it was prudent
-to retain in the grasp of Rome. This circumstance was announced to the
-world in another coin, bearing, on the reverse, a name destined to sound
-through regions Hadrian never knew—BRITANNIA—and representing a female
-figure seated on a rock, having a spear in her left hand, and a shield
-by her side.[4]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-About twenty years after Hadrian’s expedition, Lollius Urbicus took the
-command in Britain. He was not satisfied with the limits which Hadrian
-had prudently assigned to the empire in Britain. Forcing back the
-Britons, he raised an earthen rampart across the isthmus between the
-Forth and the Clyde. Graham’s Dike, in Scotland, is the wall which was
-built by Lollius Urbicus. This is proved by the numerous sculptures
-which have, at different times, been discovered among its ruins.
-
-[Sidenote: DECLINE OF THE ROMAN POWER.]
-
-The remaining history of the Romans, on the northern frontier of
-England, is fraught with disaster. The tide of war sometimes broke upon
-the northern, and sometimes on the southern boundary; but its roar and
-its devastation ceased not, until the Roman intruder had been driven
-altogether from the island—or, rather, until the successive strifes of
-Romans and Picts, Normans and Saxons, Border reavers and Scottish
-troopers, had been hushed, under the vigorous rule of the last of the
-Tudors. What Hadrian could not do, for the inhabitants of the North of
-England; what Severus failed to accomplish; what the great Alfred—the
-Norman oppressor—the Plantagenets—the despotic Henry VIII., attempted in
-vain, was accomplished under what John Knox calls ‘the monstrous
-regiment of a woman.’ Then, a ‘bright occidental star’ beamed upon these
-Northern Parts, and Law began to assert its supremacy.
-
-Marcus Antoninus, who succeeded Antoninus Pius, was far from enjoying
-the tranquillity which the northern rampart was expected to give. He was
-obliged to carry on very troublesome wars with the Britons, and with
-much difficulty kept them in check.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BRITONS PREVAIL.]
-
-In the reign of Commodus, who became sole emperor A.D. 180, the Britons,
-as we are told by Xiphiline, who abridged the history of Dion, broke
-through the wall which separated them from the Roman province, killed
-the general, ruined the army, and, in their ravages, carried everything
-before them. The wall referred to, was probably that of the Lower
-Isthmus; for, as Horsley conjectures, "the Caledonians had broken
-through the wall of Antoninus Pius not long after it was erected," and
-certain it is, "that we meet with no inscriptions on the wall of
-Antoninus but what belong to his reign."
-
-The circumstance, that the loathsome and ferocious Commodus assumed the
-title of BRITANNICUS, is no proof that success attended his arms. He was
-the first person who had ascribed to him the conjoined titles of _Pius_
-and _Felix_; but, as Lampridius satirically observes, "When he had
-appointed the adulterer of his mother a consul, he was called _Pius_;
-when he had slain Perennis, he was called _Felix_; and when the Britons
-were ready to choose another emperor, he was flattered with the title of
-BRITANNICUS."
-
-During the time that Septimius Severus, Pescennius Niger, and Clodius
-Albinus contended with each other for the empire, the northern Britons
-were held feebly in check. At length, A.D. 197, Severus prevailed, and
-became sole master of the world. Virius Lupus became his proprætor in
-Britain. Unable to resist the attacks of the Caledonians in the field,
-and having in vain attempted to purchase their submission with money,
-his lieutenant sent hasty letters to the emperor, entreating succour,
-and, if possible, his presence.
-
-It is stated by Richard of Cirencester, that about this time the PICTS,
-a tribe to which reference will presently be made, first landed in
-Scotland. The extraordinary successes, as Dr. Giles remarks, which the
-Caledonians gained, prior to the arrival of Severus, confirm the
-supposition that they received considerable reinforcements from abroad.
-
-[Sidenote: THE ARRIVAL OF SEVERUS.]
-
-SEVERUS came at the call of his lieutenant. Both Herodian and Xiphiline
-give us an account of the proceedings of this renowned emperor in
-Britain, and as their narratives are not only interesting in themselves,
-but important in the investigation of some subsequent questions, it will
-be well to avail ourselves of their statements. Herodian says—
-
- Whilst Severus was under a mighty concern about the conduct of his two
- sons, he received letters from the governor of Britain, informing him
- of the insurrections and inroads of the barbarians, and the havoc they
- made far and near, and begging, either a greater force, or that the
- emperor would come over himself. Severus, for several reasons, was
- pleased with the news, and, notwithstanding his age and infirmity,
- resolved to go over in person. And though, by reason of the gout upon
- him, he was forced to be carried in a litter, yet, he entered upon the
- journey with a juvenile briskness and courage, and performed it with
- great expedition. He quickly crossed the sea, and as soon as he came
- upon the island, having gathered a very great force together, he made
- ready for war. The Britons, being alarmed and terrified, would fain
- have excused themselves, and treated about peace. But Severus,
- unwilling to lose his labour, or to miss the glory of being called
- BRITANNICUS, dismissed their ambassadors, and carried on his military
- preparations. Particularly, he took care to make bridges or causeys
- through the marshes, that the soldiers might travel and fight upon dry
- ground.
-
-Herodian next gives a short description of the inhabitants, and says
-that—
-
- Many parts of Britain were become fenny, by the frequent inundations
- of the sea. The natives swim through those fens, or run through them
- up to the waist in mud; for, the greatest part of their bodies being
- naked, they regard not the dirt. They wear iron about their necks and
- bellies, esteeming this as fine and rich an ornament as others do
- gold. They make upon their bodies the figures of divers animals, and
- use no clothing, that they may be exposed to view. They are a very
- bloody and warlike people, using a little shield or target, and a
- spear. Their sword hangs on their naked bodies. They know not the use
- of a breastplate and helmet, and imagine these would be an impediment
- to them in passing the fens. The air is always thick with the vapours
- that ascend from these marshes.
-
-[Sidenote: THE OPERATIONS OF SEVERUS.]
-
-The historian proceeds with his story—
-
- Severus provided everything which might be of service to his own
- people, and distress the enemy. And when all things were in sufficient
- readiness, he left Geta, in that part of the island which was subject
- to the Romans, to administer justice and manage civil affairs,
- appointing some elderly friends to be his assistants. His son
- Antoninus, better known by the name of Caracalla, he took with him
- when he marched against the barbarians. The Roman army passing the
- rivers and trenches, which were the boundaries of the empire,
- skirmished often in a tumultuous manner with the barbarians, and as
- often put them to flight. But it was easy for them to escape and to
- hide themselves in the woods and fens, being well acquainted with the
- country, whereas the Romans laboured under the opposite disadvantages.
- By these means the war was prolonged. Severus, being old and infirm,
- and confined at home, would have committed the management of the war
- to his son Antoninus. But he, neglecting the barbarians, endeavoured
- to gain the Roman army, with a view to the empire. During his father’s
- lingering sickness he endeavoured to prevail with the physicians and
- servants to despatch him. At last Severus died, worn out with sorrow,
- more than disease.
-
-It will be observed, that in this detailed account of the proceedings of
-Severus in Britain, not the least allusion is made to the construction
-of a wall.
-
-[Sidenote: THE NARRATIVE OF DION CASSIUS.]
-
-Dion Cassius was contemporary with Severus. That portion of his work
-which narrates the transactions of this emperor in Britain, is
-unfortunately lost, but an epitome of it, prepared by Xiphiline,
-remains. From this abridgment the following extracts are taken.
-
- Severus, observing that his two sons were abandoned to their
- pleasures, and that the soldiers neglected their exercises, undertook
- an expedition against Britain, though he was persuaded, from his
- horoscope, that he never should return from thence to Italy. Nor did
- he ever return from this expedition, but died three years after he
- first set out from Rome. He got a prodigious mass of riches in
- Britain. The two most considerable bodies of the people in that
- island, and to which almost all the rest relate, are the Caledonians
- and the Mæatæ. The latter dwell near the barrier wall which separates
- the island into two parts; the others live beyond them. Both of them
- inhabit barren uncultivated mountains, or desert marshy plains, where
- they have neither walls nor towns, nor manured lands, but feed upon
- the milk of their flocks, upon what they get by hunting, and some wild
- fruits.
-
-The mode in which he speaks of the Wall, in this passage, implies its
-existence at the time of the arrival of Severus. The historian, after
-giving an interesting account of the manners of the inhabitants,
-proceeds:—
-
- We are masters of little less than half the island. Severus, having
- undertaken to reduce the whole under his subjection, entered into
- Caledonia, where he had endless fatigues to sustain, forests to cut
- down, mountains to level, morasses to dry up, and bridges to build. He
- had no battle to fight, and saw no enemies in a body; instead of
- appearing, they exposed their flocks of sheep and oxen, with design to
- surprise our soldiers that should straggle from the army for the sake
- of plunder. The waters, too, extremely incommoded our troops, insomuch
- that some of our soldiers being able to march no farther, begged of
- their companions to kill them, that they might not fall alive into
- their enemies’ hands. In a word, Severus lost fifty thousand men
- there, and yet quitted not his enterprise. He went to the extremity of
- the island, where he observed very exactly the course of the sun in
- those parts, and the length of the days and nights both in summer and
- winter. He was carried all over the island in a close chair, by reason
- of his infirmities, and made a treaty with the inhabitants, by which
- he obliged them to relinquish part of their country to him.
-
-The peace thus purchased, by the cession of the northern portion of the
-island, was badly observed. The inhabitants having taken up arms,
-contrary to the faith of treaties, Severus commanded his soldiers to
-enter their country, and to put all they met to the sword. He is said to
-have signified his savage intention, by quoting, from Homer, the lines
-which Cowper thus translates:
-
- .... Die the race!
- May none escape us! neither he who flies,
- Nor even the infant in the mother’s womb
- Unconscious.
-
-[Sidenote: THE DEATH OF SEVERUS.]
-
-But in the midst of his enterprise he was taken off by a distemper, to
-which, it was said, Antoninus, by his undutiful conduct, had very much
-contributed. He died at York, Feb. 4th, A.D. 211.
-
-[Sidenote: THE RECORDS OF HIS VICTORIES.]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The coins of Severus record his victories. One of them is represented
-beneath. On the obverse is the laureated head of the ferocious
-African—on the reverse are two winged victories, attaching a buckler to
-a palm tree, at the foot of which two captives mournfully sit. The
-legend, VICTORIAE BRITTANNICAE, declares who these captives are. Times
-are changed! wide as ocean rolls, the burden of Britannia’s song
-exultingly declares, 'Britons never will be slaves,'—and, better still,
-Britain has long been actively engaged in rescuing from chains the sable
-sons of that continent in which Severus first drew breath.
-
-Another curious record of the wars of Severus is found in the poems of
-Ossian. The CARACUL, son of the ‘King of the World,’ in the dramatic
-piece ‘Comala,’ is supposed to be Caracalla.
-
- DERSAGRENA. These are the signs of Fingal’s death. The King of shields
- is fallen! and CARACUL prevails.
-
- COMALA. Ruin overtake thee, THOU KING OF THE WORLD! Few be thy steps
- to the grave; and let one virgin mourn thee!
-
- MELICOMA. What sound is that on Ardven? Who comes like the strength of
- rivers, when their crowded waters glitter to the moon?
-
- COMALA. Who is it but the foe of Comala, THE SON OF THE KING OF THE
- WORLD! Ghost of Fingal! do thou from thy cloud, direct Comala’s
- bow....
-
- FINGAL. Raise ye bards, the song! CARACUL has fled from our arms along
- the fields of his pride.
-
-After the death of Severus, a long period elapsed, in which the Roman
-historians observe a profound silence respecting the affairs of Britain.
-Local records and native historians supply but feebly the deficiency.
-During the reign of Gallienus, which extended from A.D. 260 to 268, a
-large number of usurpers arose, who are commonly denominated the Thirty
-Tyrants. Of these Lollianus, Victorianus, Postumus, the two Tetrici, and
-Marius, are supposed to have assumed the sovereignty in this island; for
-their coins have been dug up more abundantly here than elsewhere.
-
-[Sidenote: BRITAIN REVOLTS.]
-
-Diocletian commenced his reign in the year 284. Though he was a man of
-energy and ability, the care of a crumbling empire was too much for him,
-and he divided his honours and anxieties with Maximian. Increasing
-perplexities a few years afterwards induced the emperors to appoint two
-Cæsars. Diocletian chose Galerius Maximianus, and Maximian nominated
-Constantius Chlorus. To Constantius was assigned the charge of Britain,
-where he eventually found a grave. He was the father of Constantine the
-Great.
-
-[Sidenote: CARAUSIUS ATTAINS THE SOVEREIGNTY.]
-
-During a portion of the united reign of Diocletian and Maximian, Britain
-assumed an independent position. In order to repress, in the northern
-seas, the ravages of the Franks and Saxons, who about this period began
-to demand a place in the world’s history, Carausius was appointed to the
-command of ‘the channel fleet.’ Gesoriacum, the modern Boulogne, was his
-place of rendezvous. Carausius, who was an expert seaman, exerted
-himself, at first, with extraordinary success, against the pirates.
-Afterwards, it was observed that he consulted his own interest, rather
-than the public service. The emperors resolved upon his destruction.
-Carausius, stimulated by self-preservation, as well as ambition, entered
-into an alliance with his former foes, the Franks and Saxons, and
-declared himself emperor of Britain. He was favourably received by the
-natives of the island, and for seven years wielded the sovereignty of
-his empire with vigour and ability. He repelled the Mæatæ and the
-Caledonians, and having subdued these tribes, attached them to his
-interest. Nothing, observes Mr. Thackeray, can more fully prove the
-maritime strength and resources of Great Britain, under an able ruler,
-than the fact, that Carausius for seven years bade defiance to the Roman
-power; and at the end of that time fell, not overcome by the imperial
-forces, but by private treachery. Never before, nor until several
-hundred years after this period, was the country firmly united under the
-government of one sovereign.
-
-Constantius was preparing to invade Britain with a fleet of a thousand
-ships, when Carausius was murdered by Allectus, whom he had trusted as
-his dearest friend. For about three years the assassin held, though with
-a less firm grasp, the power formerly possessed by his victim.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUCCESSES OF CARAUSIUS.]
-
-A very numerous suite of coins commemorates the successes of Carausius,
-and vindicates his claim to a share in the empire of the world. Two
-coins are represented here. On the reverse of one is a galley, which
-indicates the chief source of his strength, and on the reverse of the
-other is a lion with a thunderbolt in its mouth, significative, not only
-of the bold bearing which the ancient sea-king assumed, but of that
-which his successors in modern times have maintained.
-
-Carausius, according to Macpherson, is the CAROS of Ossian. The
-following extract, upon this supposition, contains a remarkable allusion
-to the Wall.
-
- Who comes towards my son, with the murmur of a song! His staff is in
- his hand, his grey hair loose on the wind. Surly joy lightens his
- face. He often looks back to CAROS.
-
- It is Ryno of Songs, he that went to view the foe. "What does CAROS,
- KING OF SHIPS?" said the son of the now mournful Ossian; "spreads he
- the wings of his pride,[5] bard of the times of old?"
-
- "He spreads them, Oscar," replied the bard, "but it is behind his
- GATHERED HEAP. He looks over his STONES with fear. He beholds thee
- terrible, as the ghost of night, that rolls the wave to his ships!"
-
-[Sidenote: BRITAIN UNDER DIOCLETIAN AND SUCCESSORS.]
-
-It would be improper to leave the reign of Diocletian without remarking,
-that under it, the church of Christ endured the last and most terrible
-of the ten persecutions, which pagan Rome inflicted upon the followers
-of the cross. Britain did not escape. Alban and many others, as Gildas
-and Bede inform us, were martyrs for the faith.
-
-On the withdrawal, in the year 305, of Diocletian and Maximian from the
-cares of empire, Galerius and Constantius became the rulers of the
-world.
-
-Constantine, afterwards surnamed the Great, was proclaimed emperor, on
-the death of his father Constantius, at York. After a protracted
-struggle with several rivals, he became, A.D. 313, sole possessor of the
-imperial power. He was the first Christian Emperor, and, in token of his
-faith, inscribed the monogram of the Redeemer upon his banner, and his
-coin. The circumstances under which he adopted this step are thus
-detailed—
-
- Constantine was in Gaul, and having heard of the opposition of his
- rival, who was in possession of Rome, he immediately crossed the Alps,
- and proceeded against him. When near Verona, on his march, and
- meditating the difficulties of his situation, he was roused from deep
- thought by a bright light, which suddenly illumined the sky, and,
- looking up, he saw the sun, which was in its meridian, surmounted by a
- cross of fire, and beneath it this inscription, τουτῳ νικα—"IN THIS
- CONQUER." He immediately adopted the cross as his ensign, and formed
- on the spot the celebrated Labarum, or Christian standard, which was
- ever after substituted for the Roman eagle. This, as Eusebius
- describes it, was a spear crossed by an arrow, on which was suspended
- a velum, having inscribed on it the monogram, ☧ formed by the Greek
- letters _Chi_ and _Rho_, the initials of the name of Christ. Under
- this he marched forward, and rapidly triumphed over all his enemies;
- and, struck with the preternatural warning he had received, and its
- consequences, he now publicly embraced the doctrines of that religion
- under whose banner he had conquered.[6]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The monogram is well displayed on the reverse of a coin of
-Magnentius,[7] which is here represented. The Alpha and Omega, which
-accompany the symbol, indicate the faith of the emperor in the divinity
-of Christ—‘the beginning and the ending, which is, and which was, and
-which is to come, the Almighty.’
-
-Constantine removed the imperial seat from Rome to Constantinople.
-
-[Sidenote: BRITAIN OVER-RUN BY THE PICTS.]
-
-During the life-time of Constantine, Britain partook of the civil
-tranquillity of the rest of the world; but in the reign of his immediate
-successors, the Picts and Scots renewed their incursions into the lower
-province. This was not the only evil which Roman Britain had to endure.
-Magnentius, a native of the isle, entered into a contest with
-Constantius II. for the empire of the world, and in support of his
-claims, collected an army, (chiefly drawn from Britain) with which he
-three times met his foe. On the death of Magnentius, by his own hands,
-in the year 353, his successful rival inflicted a bloody revenge upon
-the Britons for having supported their countryman: meanwhile the Picts
-and Scots harassed them, on the north, with redoubled fury.
-
-[Sidenote: THEODOSIUS REPAIRS THE WALL.]
-
-Little is recorded of Britain in the reign of Julian the Apostate. In
-the time of Jovian his successor, the Picts, Saxons, and Scots, vexed it
-by increasing calamities. Valentinian obtained the purple A.D. 364, when
-the state of the country was so alarming as to require immediate
-attention. Even London seems to have been menaced by the enemy, if it
-was not actually in their hands. Theodosius, the ablest general of his
-time, went to the assistance of the Britons, drove the enemy before him,
-and recovered the provincial cities and forts. He then repaired the
-cities and _prætenturæ_ and erected some new forts. Horsley thinks that
-the Wall in the North of England, and the stations upon it, are the
-_prætenturæ_ referred to.
-
-Valentinian, having, in 367, united with himself in the government of
-the empire, Gratian his son, died, A.D. 375. Six days afterwards, his
-second son, Valentinian II. was proclaimed his successor. The two
-brothers reigned together, Theodosius the Great presiding at the same
-time in the Eastern provinces, until Gratian was killed A.D. 383. Four
-years afterwards, Valentinian was robbed of the purple by Maximus, but
-applied for assistance to his eastern colleague, Theodosius, and once
-more entered Rome with imperial dignity. The sovereignty of Britain,
-Gaul, and Spain was, however, still conceded, for the present, to
-Maximus, who adopted Treves as the seat of his government.
-
-[Sidenote: THE ISLAND DRAINED OF ITS YOUTH.]
-
-In this struggle Britain suffered severely. Maximus, having served in
-the island under the elder Theodosius, was a favourite with the
-Romanized Britons. They flocked to his standard in such numbers that the
-island seemed drained of its youth. More than a hundred thousand persons
-are said to have accompanied him from Britain to the continent.
-
-The loss of the native soldiery was severely felt in the North of
-England, where the ruthless barbarians renewed their ravages without
-molestation. The whole island, in the querulous language of its first
-historian, Gildas,[8] "Deprived of all her armed soldiers and military
-bands, was left to her cruel tyrants, deprived of the assistance of all
-her youth who went with Maximus, and ignorant of the art of war, she
-groaned in amazement for many years under the cruelty of the Picts and
-Scots."
-
-Theodosius died A.D. 395. He left his dominions to his sons Arcadius and
-Honorius, who permanently divided them into the empires of the East and
-West. In the early part of the reign of Honorius, the province of
-Britain, by the prudence of the emperor’s minister Stilicho, had
-comparative rest from the incursions of the enemy. But when the Gothic
-war diverted the attention of the government from so remote a province,
-and the legions of Britain were called away to defend the seat of the
-empire from the attacks of Alaric, the troubles which before distracted
-the province, were again called into fearful operation. A spirit of
-disaffection and revolt increased the evil. Marcus and Gratian were
-successively declared emperors by the islanders, but were both speedily
-murdered. Constantine was next raised to the sovereignty, an honour for
-which he was indebted to his name, not his rank or fitness for the
-office. Instead of endeavouring to secure the peace of Britain, he
-transported his army to Gaul and made a successful stand against
-Honorius. He was assassinated in the year 411.
-
-[Sidenote: BRITAIN BECOMES INDEPENDENT.]
-
-Whilst Honorius was struggling with the usurper Constantine, he wrote
-letters to the cities of Britain, conceding the independence of the
-island, and urging them to adopt measures for their own government and
-protection. The gift of liberty was to them a fatal boon. Their
-implacable enemies, finding that the military science of the Romans no
-longer protected the south, rushed forth to invade the undefended
-province. The natives, in despair, turned to the still powerful name of
-Rome, and dispatched messengers to entreat help from the emperor.—But
-let Gildas ‘the wise,’ depict the closing scene of ancient Britain’s
-history—
-
-[Sidenote: THE NARRATIVE OF GILDAS.]
-
- The Britons, impatient at the assaults of their enemies, send
- ambassadors to Rome, entreating, in piteous terms, the assistance of
- an armed band to protect them. A legion is immediately sent, provided
- sufficiently with arms. When they had crossed over the sea, and
- landed, they came at once to close conflict with their enemies, and
- slew great numbers of them. All of them were driven beyond the
- borders, and the humiliated natives rescued from the bloody slavery
- which awaited them. By the advice of their protectors, they now built
- a wall across the island, from one sea to the other, which, being
- manned with a proper force, might be a terror to the foes whom it was
- intended to repel, and a protection to their friends whom it covered.
- But this wall being made of turf, instead of stone, was of no use to
- that foolish people, who had no head to guide them.
-
- The Roman legion had no sooner returned home in joy and triumph, than
- their former foes, like hungry and ravening wolves, rushing with
- greedy jaws upon the fold, which is left without a shepherd, are
- wafted, both by the strength of oarsmen and the blowing wind, break
- through the boundaries, and spread slaughter on every side.
-
- And now again they send suppliant ambassadors, with their garments
- rent, and their heads covered with ashes, imploring assistance from
- the Romans, like timorous chickens crowding under the protecting wings
- of their parents. Upon this, the Romans, moved with compassion, send
- forward, like eagles in their flight, their bands of cavalry and
- mariners, and planting their terrible swords upon the shoulders of
- their enemies, mow them down like leaves which fall at their destined
- period. Having driven their enemies beyond the sea, the Romans left
- the country, giving them notice, that they could no longer be harassed
- by such laborious expeditions, but that the islanders, inuring
- themselves to warlike weapons, should valiantly protect their country,
- their property, their wives, and children; that they should not suffer
- their hands to be tied behind their backs, by a nation, which, unless
- they were enervated by idleness and sloth, was not more powerful than
- themselves, but that they should arm those hands with buckler, sword,
- and spear, ready for the field of battle; and, because they thought
- this also of advantage to the people they were about to leave, they,
- with the help of the miserable natives, built a wall, different from
- the former, by public and private contributions, and of the same
- structure as walls generally are, extending in a straight line from
- sea to sea, between some cities, which, from fear of their enemies,
- had then by chance been built.
-
-[Sidenote: THE DISTRESSES OF THE BRITONS.]
-
- No sooner were they gone, than the Picts and Scots, like worms, which
- in the heat of mid-day, come forth from their holes, hastily land from
- their canoes, differing one from another in manners, but inspired with
- the same avidity for blood, and all, more eager to shroud their
- villainous faces in bushy hair, than to cover with decent clothing
- those parts of their body which required it. Moreover, having heard of
- the departure of our friends, and their resolution never to return,
- they seized, with greater boldness than before, on all the country
- towards the extreme north, as far as the Wall. To oppose them, there
- was placed on the heights, a garrison, equally slow to fight, and ill
- adapted to run away, a useless and panic-struck company, which
- slumbered away days and nights on their unprofitable watch. Meanwhile
- the hooked weapons of their enemies were not idle, and our wretched
- countrymen were dragged from the Wall, and dashed against the ground.
- Such premature death, however, painful as it was, saved them from
- seeing the miserable sufferings of their brothers and children. But
- why should I say more? They left their cities, abandoned the
- protection of the Wall, and dispersed themselves in flight more
- desperately than before.
-
-Whilst the enemy butchered them like sheep, they increased their own
-miseries by domestic feuds—
-
- They turned their arms upon each other, and for the sake of a little
- sustenance, imbrued their hands in the blood of their fellow
- countrymen.
-
-Again, in their distress, they applied to the Romans. In the address,
-entitled ‘The Groans of the Britons,’ our author represents them as
-saying:—
-
- The barbarians drive us to the sea, the sea throws us back on the
- barbarians: thus two modes of death await us, we are either slain or
- drowned.
-
-The Romans could not assist them, and, unwilling to assist themselves,
-they sought and obtained the help of those ‘wolves’, as Gildas calls
-them, the fierce and impious Saxons. The result is known to all—Celtic
-Britain became Saxon England—and England, with all its faults,—has it
-not been a blessing to the world?
-
-The picture drawn by Gildas of the misery of the southern Britons, and
-of the ravages of the northern barbarians, is doubtless correct; but, in
-ascribing the erection of the earthen rampart, and the stone wall of the
-LOWER BARRIER to the period of the departure of the Romans, he probably
-leans upon the erring traditions of his own times. His statement is
-devoid of probability. A work so bold in its design, so skilfully
-planned, and involving so much labour in its execution, cannot have been
-the result of the expiring energies of Rome in Britain. Its very ruins
-bespeak the masculine vigour of Rome’s maturity.
-
-Besides, if we receive the testimony of Gildas upon this point, we must
-either suppose that several walls have been drawn across the island, or
-we must reject the assertions of those classical writers who ascribe the
-works to Hadrian or Severus. The former supposition cannot be
-maintained, for we meet with no traces of more than one earthen vallum,
-and one stone wall, in the region in question; and with reference to the
-latter alternative, it is more likely that Gildas should err in his
-dates, than that Dion Cassius, and Herodian, and Spartian, should
-describe, as existing in their day, that which was not to be for
-centuries.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BRITONS SUPINE IN YIELDING TO THE PICTS.]
-
-Another question will arise in the mind of the thoughtful reader;—how
-was it that the Britons suffered themselves to become so easy a prey to
-the Picts and Scots? Roman civilization could not, greatly at least,
-have enervated them. The cultivation of the liberal arts removes from
-the minds and manners of men their unsightly asperities, but it brings
-out in bolder relief their more valuable qualities. The vices of the
-Romans, when grafted upon the previously polluted life of the Britons,
-would indeed have a tendency to unman them, but why should it have sunk
-them beneath the level of the Romans themselves? We do not find,
-moreover, that the Britons who fought in foreign parts were deficient in
-courage.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BRITONS HAD BREATHING-TIME.]
-
-An acquaintance with Roman discipline, a knowledge of the Roman art of
-war, ought to have given them great advantages over their less civilized
-neighbours on the north of the Wall, and enabled them easily to have
-retained that great structure as a boundary fence.[9] It is true that
-great numbers of their youth had from time to time been drafted off by
-successive emperors, to engage in foreign quarrels, and that thus the
-land was deprived of its natural defenders. This accounts for a part of
-their distress, but not all. In a rude state of society, every man is a
-soldier, and it was an essential part of the policy of Rome to inure
-every citizen to the practice of arms. There surely would be men enough
-left to defend their homes, their liberties, and lives! Besides, half a
-century elapsed between the time when the Romans began to leave Britain
-to its own resources, and their final refusal of all succour. There was
-thus time enough to have nurtured a whole generation of veterans; and
-there was time enough—if the energy had been in them—to have shaken off
-those feelings of dependence upon Rome, which the presence of their
-conquerors had fostered. The opportunity, however, was lost; they
-entreated, and wept, and groaned—and passed off the stage of this
-world’s history. How are we adequately to account for this circumstance?
-[Sidenote: THE GENEALOGY OF THE PICTS AND SCOTS.]This is not the place
-to discuss the genealogy of the Picts, but if we adopt the theory of
-their Germanic origin,[10] the enigma, if not made quite plain, will
-appear less difficult than before. However great the valour, and however
-estimable the other qualities of the Celtic race, they did not possess
-the patience, the perseverance, the capacity for united action, and the
-power of command, which characterized the Teutonic tribes; hence they
-would fall before them in any contest which required sustained exertion.
-[Sidenote: THE TEUTONES SUPPLANT THE CELTS.]Gibbon’s estimate of the
-character of the ancient Britons is probably correct—‘The various tribes
-possessed valour without conduct, and the love of freedom without the
-spirit of union. They took up arms with savage fierceness, they laid
-them down, or turned them against each other with wild inconstancy; and,
-while they fought singly, they were successively subdued.’
-
-[Sidenote: ANTAGONISM OF THE RACES.]
-
-The Picts, without the artificial advantages which the Romanized Britons
-possessed, doubtless had the usual characteristics of the Gothic tribes.
-By these they were enabled, in defiance of the desultory attempts of the
-previous occupants of the soil, to ravage the land, until, through the
-efforts of Vortigern, they were confronted with foes of their own kith
-and kin. In our sister island, we unhappily witness, though in a subdued
-form, much of that animosity of race which led to the devastation and
-bloodshed that Gildas deplores. When will Saxon and Celt lay aside their
-differences, and unite for the common weal of Britain! Why should they
-regard each other with mutual suspicion? Why should the one triumph, and
-the other sink into hopeless, helpless despair? Creation groans—a
-prostrate world looks to united Britain and its offshoots, for that balm
-which may heal its woes—let it, strong in the confidence and love of its
-various constituent parts, faithfully fulfil its duty!
-
-
-[Sidenote: THE ROMAN ESTIMATION OF BRITAIN.]
-
-On reviewing this sketch of the proceedings of Rome, in relation to this
-distant portion of her great empire, the reader will perhaps be struck
-with the amount of attention which the Imperial City bestowed upon it.
-
-The classic authors speak most disparagingly of the land, and its
-inhabitants—
-
- Et penitus toto divisos orbe Britannos.
- _Virg. Ec._ I.
- Serves iturum Cæsarem in ultimos
- Orbis Britannos.
- _Hor. Od._ I. 35.
- Visam Britannos, hospitibus feros.
- _Hor. Od._ III. 4.
- Te belluosus qui remotis
- Obstrepit oceanus Britannis.
- _Hor. Od._ IV. 14.
-
-—and yet Britain, which, according to these authorities, scarcely formed
-a portion of the habitable earth, which was perpetually lashed by a
-stormy ocean, and whose inhabitants, unlike many barbaric tribes, were
-inhospitable to strangers, was the resort, not only of numerous
-legionary and auxiliary troops, but of very many of the emperors
-themselves. Great Julius came. Claudius fought upon our soil. Vespasian
-entered into conflict thirty-two times with the southern Britons. Titus
-shared in his toils and triumphs. Hadrian was here, and left the impress
-of his mighty mind behind him. Septimius Severus ended his days in
-Britain; his sons Geta and Caracalla first assumed the purple in
-Britain. The emperor Maximinus breathed, sixteen centuries ago, the
-sea-borne gales of Tynemouth. Britain, with its seas, was the chief
-scene of the exploits of the emperor Carausius. Allectus reigned three
-years over it. Constantius was long in the island, and his son,
-Constantine the Great is said to have first drawn breath upon our soil.
-Both Constans and Magnentius were here. Theodosius the Emperor fought
-under his father in Britain. Maximus, who had previously married a
-British lady, was invested by his soldiers with the purple at York—How
-comes it that so many of those who boasted of the mastery of this wide
-world, were induced personally to visit this little isle?—how was it,
-but that
-
- Coming events cast their shadows before.
-
-[Sidenote: ROME FORESHADOWS BRITAIN’S DESTINY.]
-
-It seems as though there was an affinity between England and Earth’s
-rulers—and that thus early it was pointed out as the spot in which, of
-all others, save one—Jerusalem—mankind had the greatest interest.
-
-The importance of Britain, in the estimation of the Romans, is further
-shewn by the fact, that, of the different coins struck by the imperial
-government in the short period extending from the reign of Claudius to
-that of Caracalla, at least fifty-six relate to this country. Of these,
-two were struck in the reign of Claudius, five in that of Hadrian,
-seventeen bear the impress of Antonine, ten of Severus, twelve of
-Caracalla, and ten of his brother Geta.[11]
-
-[Sidenote: CAUSE OF THE ROMAN OCCUPATION.]
-
-Whilst however we maintain that Rome was led to Britain by the impulse
-of a power of which she was not conscious, and whilst we willingly
-acknowledge that the conquest of Britain by the Romans was the first of
-that series of signal providential arrangements, by which, from the dawn
-of history to the present hour, ‘the Governor among the nations’ has
-prepared this island for performing that important part in the drama of
-history, which she now sustains,—the enquiry yet remains, by what motive
-were the conquerors more immediately impelled to settle in so remote an
-island? Such toils would not have been endured, such sacrifices would
-not have been made, victories over tribes so savage would not thus have
-been gloried in, except the question ‘cui bono?’ could have been
-satisfactorily answered. ‘I confess,’ says Horsley, 'that when I view
-some part of the country in the north of England, where the Romans had
-their military ways and stations, that question naturally arises, which
-has been often proposed: What could move them to march so far to conquer
-such a country? It appears wild and desolate enough at present, but must
-have been more so at that time, from the accounts the Roman historians
-have given us of it. I shall leave the Caledonian Galgacus, or Tacitus
-for him, to return the answer—If the enemy was rich, their covetousness
-moved them; if poor, their ambition. And when they added further
-desolation to a desolate country, this was their peace.' Ambition was
-doubtless the leading motive. From the earliest periods of Roman history
-we find her bent upon conquest. Incessant wars engendered a thirst for
-victory, and military glory became the ruling passion of the people. The
-wide grasp of their ambition gave to the features of Roman character
-harder, but grander lineaments than those which their more polished
-neighbours of Greece possessed. Flattered, as the lords of the world, by
-their favourite poets and historians, they gloried in their proud
-pre-eminence, and thought that they were but fulfilling their destiny in
-asserting a claim to universal dominion. Candidates for public favour
-knew well that to fan the popular passion was the readiest way to
-succeed in their aims. None understood this better than Julius Cæsar;
-and the later emperors, who possessed not the power to strike an
-energetic blow, found it necessary to maintain the show at least of
-conquest and of triumph.
-
-[Sidenote: WEALTH OF ANCIENT BRITAIN.]
-
-Less worthy inducements were, however, not wanting. There are few evils
-in the fibres of whose roots the love of money will not be found. Gold
-was another secret but powerful cause of the hardships which the Romans
-themselves underwent, and of the countless ills which they mercilessly
-inflicted upon the miserable islanders. The British chiefs in general
-appear to have had considerable riches among them. Cæsar, according to
-Strabo, acquired a large booty in his two descents upon our shore.
-Prasutagus, the king of the Iceni, died possessed of very great wealth.
-To a few states in the south, and within a few years after their first
-subjection, the philosophical Seneca lent more than four hundred and
-eighty thousand pounds of our money upon good security, and at
-exorbitant interest.[12] Severus got a prodigious mass of riches in this
-land. Gold is not now an article of mineral wealth in Britain. We are
-not from this to infer that it was not so when it was first invaded. The
-precious metal is not met with in veins or strata, but is diffused over
-the alluvial soil, or mixed with the sand of rivers in grains or lumps.
-When the commercial value of the glittering dust is discovered, it is
-speedily picked up, and a country, once rich in it, becomes, in the
-course of ages, impoverished. The number of massive golden torques and
-armillæ of the ancient Britons, which even yet are from time to time
-being brought to light, favours the idea that the metal was, in ancient
-days, tolerably abundant. Whatever the secret motives, Cæsar came and
-conquered—
-
- The Roman taught thy stubborn knee to bow,
- Though twice a Cæsar could not bend it now.
-
-[Sidenote: THE FATE OF ROME.]
-
-In passing from the contemplation of the Roman occupation of Britain to
-our examination of the remains of the chief monument of imperial power
-which time has left us, the mind will experience a great transition. In
-the Wall, we have evident traces of the might of Rome, but it is the
-might of a giant laid prostrate—
-
- . . . . . Her haughty carcass spread,
- Still awes in ruins, and commands when dead.
-
-Centuries have elapsed since the vast fabric was upreared, but they have
-been centuries rife with the fate of empires.
-
-The most ardent lover of the olden time cannot but startle, as he treads
-the deserted streets, or enters the unbarred portals of BORCOVICUS, and
-other cities of the Wall, at the thought that the Mistress of Nations is
-now no more,[13] and that the Eternal City is buried in her own debris.
-The broken column, the prostrate altar, ever and anon obtrude the fact
-upon him. Another empire has sprung into being of which Rome dreamt not.
-In a sense different from that which Virgil intended, the words in his
-third Georgic are peculiarly striking—
-
- Vel scena ut versis discedat frontibus, utque
- Purpurea intexti tollant aulæa Britanni.
-
- Or see how on the stage the shifting scenes
- In order pass, and pictured Britons rise
- Out of the earth, and raise the purple curtain.
-
-[Sidenote: PROSPECTIVE FATE OF BRITAIN.]
-
-In that island, where, in Roman days, the painted savage shared the
-forest with the beast of prey—a lady sits upon her throne of state,
-wielding a sceptre more potent than Julius or Hadrian ever grasped! Her
-empire is threefold that of Rome in the hour of its prime. But power is
-not her brightest diadem. The holiness of the domestic circle irradiates
-her. Literature, and all the arts of peace, flourish under her sway. Her
-people bless her.
-
-Will Britain always thus occupy so prominent a position in the scene of
-this world’s history?
-
- ... Valet ima summis
- Mutare, et insignem attenuat Deus
- Obscura promens.
-
- The power that did create, can change the scene
- Of things; make mean of great, and great of mean.
-
-[Sidenote: LESSON INCULCATED.]
-
-Is the fate of Persia, Macedon, and Rome, never to be hers? ‘O Thou,
-that didst build up this Britannic empire to a glorious and enviable
-height, with all her daughter islands about her; stay us in this
-felicity!’ What would Britain at this moment be without the Bible? Let
-the seven-hilled city say! If Britain herself obey the inspired word,
-and give it to the nations, then she needs not fear the shock of
-empires. If not, at a future day the native of a distant isle, or
-obscure nation, then newly risen into greatness, moralizing over the
-reedy docks and grass-grown streets of London, may exclaim—How true the
-words of their own Milton! 'But if ... as you have been valiant in war,
-you should grow debauched in peace, you that have had such visible
-demonstrations of the goodness of God to yourselves, and his wrath
-against your enemies ... you will find that God’s displeasure against
-you, will be greater than it has been against your adversaries, greater
-than his grace and favour has been to yourselves, which you have had
-larger experience of than any other nation under heaven.'
-
-[Illustration: Base of Column at BORCOVICUS.]
-
------
-
-Footnote 2:
-
- This coin is in the possession of Mr. Bell, of the Nook, Irthington,
- to whose cabinet of coins, chiefly procured from the line of the wall,
- the author has kindly been allowed free access.
-
-Footnote 3:
-
- This interesting coin is thus described by
- Akerman:—_OBVERSE_—HADRIANUS · AVG_ustus_, CO_nsul_ III. [tertium]
- P_ater_ P_atriæ_. Laureated bust of Hadrian, with the chlamys buckled
- over his right shoulder. _REVERSE_—ADVENTVS AVG_usti_ BRITANNIAE. In
- the exergue—S_enatus_ C_onsulto_. An altar, with the fire kindled,
- placed between the emperor in his toga, who holds a patera, and a
- female figure, a victim lying at her feet.
-
-Footnote 4:
-
- Numismatists differ as to the appropriation of the female. The same
- figure in other coins of this reign being used to personify Rome, it
- probably does so in this case; and represents the secure possession
- obtained by the Eternal City, of Albion’s rocky shore. However this
- may be, the same figure has been placed by many successive generations
- of mint-masters on the reverse of the copper coinage of Great Britain.
- Britain in this still bows to Rome!
-
-Footnote 5:
-
- The Roman Eagle.
-
-Footnote 6:
-
- Walsh on Coins.
-
-Footnote 7:
-
- In the collection of Geo. Rippon, Esq., North Shields.
-
-Footnote 8:
-
- Historians differ as to the degree of credibility due to this author.
- Mr. Wright, in his Biographia Britannica Literaria, says that his is
- ‘a name of very doubtful authority.’ Sharon Turner thinks that ‘as far
- as he can be supported, and made intelligible, by others, he is an
- acceptable companion, but that he cannot be trusted alone;’ and Mr.
- Stevenson, in the preface to his edition of the original Latin of
- Gildas, writes ‘We are unable to speak with certainty as to his
- parentage, his country, or even his name, the period when he lived, or
- the works of which he was the author.’ Thus much, however, is certain,
- that he lived before the time of Bede, and is quoted by him.
-
-Footnote 9:
-
- This point is well put by Sir Francis Palgrave, in his History of the
- Anglo-Saxons. ‘The walls of the cities fortified by the Romans were
- yet strong and firm. The tactics of the legions were not forgotten.
- Bright armour was piled in the storehouses, and the serried line of
- spears might have been presented to the half-naked Scots and Picts,
- who could never have prevailed against their opponents.’
-
-Footnote 10:
-
- The supposition is not destitute of support. The migratory tendencies
- of the Gothic tribes have always been conspicuous. From the earliest
- periods of our history, the inhabitants of Jutland and its
- neighbouring provinces were in the habit of making descents upon the
- coasts of Britain. After the departure of the Romans, their attempts
- were probably more bold and frequent, but they did not then, for the
- first time, commence. The Norfolk and Suffolk coast was, from its
- position, peculiarly exposed to these incursions, and as early as the
- close of the third century, was placed under the command of a military
- Count called _Comes litoris Saxonici_. This district was called ‘the
- Saxon shore,’ as Sir Francis Palgrave observes, not merely because it
- was open to the incursion of the Saxons, but, most probably, because
- they had succeeded in fixing themselves in some portion of it. The
- weak hold which the Romans, at all times, had of Scotland, would
- render it an easier prey than England to the Franks and Saxons.
- Tacitus informs us, that the ruddy hair and lusty limbs of the
- Caledonians indicate a Germanic extraction. Richard of Cirencester
- tells us, that a little before the coming of Severus, the Picts landed
- in Scotland; from which we are at least entitled to infer, that the
- Picts were not the original inhabitants of North Britain; and probably
- the statement is substantially correct, inasmuch as large
- reinforcements landed in Scotland at this period, as previously
- observed. The Scots—the other branch of the people classed under the
- general term Caledonians—are confessedly of Irish origin. When St.
- Columba, whose mother tongue was Irish Gaelic, preached to the Picts,
- he used an interpreter. Fordun, the Father of Scottish History, tells
- us, ‘The manners of the Scots are various as to their languages; for
- they use two tongues, the Scottish and the Teutonic. The last is
- spoken by those on the sea-coasts and in the low countries, while the
- Scottish is the speech of the mountaineers and the remote islanders.’
- The proper Scots, Camden describes as those commonly called
- Highlandmen; ‘for the rest,’ he adds, ‘more civilized, and inhabiting
- the eastern part, though comprehended under the name of Scots, are the
- farthest in the world from being Scots, but are of the same German
- origin with us English.’ Dr. Jamieson, whose researches in philology
- are well known, is decidedly of opinion that the Picts and Saxons had
- a common origin. Upon what other theory, he argues, can the prevalence
- of the Saxon tongue in the Lowlands of Scotland be accounted for?
- William the Conqueror could not change the language of South
- Britain—was it likely that a few Saxon fugitives at the Scottish court
- could supplant that of their benefactors?
-
- The theory of the Germanic origin of the Picts removes another
- difficulty. How is the disappearance of the Celtic tongue from England
- to be accounted for? The Saxons, on seizing the soil, would not
- exterminate the inhabitants, but retain them as bondsmen. Had the
- majority of the occupants of England been the original Britons or
- Romanized Celts, we should have found in our daily speech, and in the
- names of our towns and villages, a large intermixture of Gaelic and
- Latin; but such is not the case. Grant that the Picts were a branch of
- the great Gothic family—and that successive waves of them had, long
- before the time of Cerdic, poured from the lowlands of Scotland over
- the plains of England, and the almost entire extermination of the
- ancient British is easily accounted for.
-
- If the theory here advocated, cannot be sustained, it must at least be
- allowed, that the population of North Britain was largely leavened
- with individuals of the Saxon race. These strangers would doubtless
- obtain that supremacy over the natives which the Franks did in Gaul;
- so that, even upon this limited view of the question, the influence of
- the Germanic race in fixing the destinies of Britain, at this critical
- period, is apparent.
-
-Footnote 11:
-
- The whole of these are accurately figured and described in the
- "Materials for the History of Britain," published by the government.
- It is to be hoped that a work so auspiciously begun will not be
- strangled in its birth, by a false application of the principles of
- national economy.
-
-Footnote 12:
-
- Whitaker’s History of Manchester, i. 228.
-
-Footnote 13:
-
- "Politically speaking, Rome is now the city of the dead."
-
- _Times_, March 18th, 1850.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
- ~The Roman Barrier of the
- Lower Isthmus.~
-
- PART II.
- A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE LINE OF THE WALL.
-
-Numerous are the appellations which the Great Barrier of the Lower
-Isthmus has obtained. 'It was called by ancient writers _vallum
-barbaricum_, _prætentura_ and _clusura_; by Dion διατειχισμα; by
-Herodian χωμα; by Antoninus and others _vallum_; by some of the Latin
-historians _murus_; by the English the Picts’-wall, or THE WALL; and by
-the Britons _gual Sever_, _gal Sever_, and _mur Sever_. The names
-_prætentura_ and _clusura_ are given to it upon account of its being
-stretched out against, and excluding the enemy.' To the names thus
-enumerated by Camden, must be added, the Thirl Wall, the Kepe Wall, and
-that by which it is best known at present, the ROMAN WALL.
-
-[Sidenote: GENERAL VIEW OF THE WORKS.]
-
-This great fortification consists of three parts.
-
-I. A Stone Wall, strengthened by a ditch on its northern side.
-
-II. A Turf Wall or Vallum, to the south of the stone wall.
-
-III. Stations, Castles, Watch-towers, and Roads, for the accommodation
-of the soldiery who manned the Barrier, and for the transmission of
-military stores. These lie, for the most part, between the stone wall
-and the earthen rampart.
-
-The whole of the works proceed from one side of the island to the other
-in a nearly direct line, and in comparatively close companionship. The
-stone wall and earthen rampart are generally within sixty or seventy
-yards of each other.[14] The distance between them, however, varies
-according to the nature of the country. Sometimes they are so close as
-barely to admit of the passage of the military way between them, whilst,
-in one or two instances, they are upwards of half-a-mile apart. It is in
-the high grounds of the central region that they are most widely
-separated. Midway between the seas, the country attains a considerable
-elevation; here the stone wall seeks the highest ridges, but the vallum,
-forsaking for a while its usual companion, runs along the adjacent
-valley. Both works are, however, so arranged as to afford each other the
-greatest amount of support which the nature of the country allows.
-
- _PLATE II._
-
-[Illustration: PLAN OF THE BARRIER BETWEEN CILURNUM AND MAGNA AFTER
-HORSLEY.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
- _A PLAN OF CILURNUM AFTER WARBURTON WITH PART OF THE PLAN OF THE STONE
- WALL AND VALLUM._
- _Shewing how they are connected at the Stations, and by their mutual
- relation to one another must have been one entire united Defence or
- Fortification._
-]
-
- _Reid Litho. 117 Pilgrim Street Newcastle_
-
-The stone wall extends from Wall’s-end on the Tyne, to Bowness on the
-Solway, a space which Horsley estimates at sixty-eight miles and three
-furlongs—the turf wall falls short of this distance by about three miles
-at each end, terminating at Newcastle on the east side, and at Drumburgh
-on the west.
-
-[Sidenote: GENERAL VIEW OF THE WORKS.]
-
-The Map of the Wall, the more detailed Plans of several parts of it in
-Plate II, and the Sections given in a subsequent page, will afford a
-pretty correct idea of the general arrangement of the works.
-
-Most writers who have treated of the Roman remains in Britain, have
-considered that the two lines of fortification are the works of
-different periods. The earth-wall, or Vallum, has generally been
-ascribed to Hadrian, but the stone wall, or Murus, to Septimius Severus.
-This is the opinion of Horsley, whose judgment is always deserving of
-the highest consideration. Deferring to a subsequent period the
-discussion of this question, it will be convenient, meanwhile, to speak
-of the works as being but different parts of one great engineering
-scheme.
-
-[Sidenote: THE COURSE OF THE WALL.]
-
-The most striking feature in the plan, both of the Murus and the Vallum,
-is the determinate manner in which they pursue their straight-forward
-course. The Vallum makes fewer deviations from a right line than the
-stone Wall; but as the Wall traverses higher ground, this remarkable
-tendency is more easily detected in it than in the other. Shooting over
-the country, in its onward course, it only swerves from a straight line
-to take in its route the boldest elevations. So far from declining a
-hill, it uniformly selects it. For nineteen miles out of Newcastle, the
-road to Carlisle runs upon the foundation of the Wall, and during the
-summer months its dusty surface contrasts well with the surrounding
-verdure. Often will the traveller, after attaining some of the steep
-acclivities of his path, observe the road stretching for miles in an
-undeviating course to the east and the west of him, resembling, as
-Hutton expresses it, a white ribbon on a green ground. But if it never
-moves from a right line, except to occupy the highest points, it never
-fails to seize them, as they occur, no matter how often it is compelled,
-with this view, to change its direction. It never bends in a curve, but
-always at an angle. Hence, along the craggy precipices between
-Sewingshields and Thirlwall, it is obliged to pursue a remarkably
-zig-zag course; for it takes in its range, with the utmost pertinacity,
-every projecting rock.
-
-This mode of proceeding involves another peculiarity. It is compelled to
-accommodate itself to the depressions of the mountainous region over
-which it passes. Without flinching, it sinks into the ‘gap,’ or pass,
-which ever and anon occurs, and, having crossed the narrow valley,
-ascends unfalteringly the steep acclivity on the other side. The
-antiquary, in following it into these ravines, is often compelled to
-step with the utmost caution, and in clambering up the opposite ascent,
-he is as frequently constrained to pause for breath. After crossing the
-river Irthing, in Cumberland, the Wall is opposed in its course westward
-by a precipice of upwards of one hundred feet in height. It cannot now
-be ascertained, whether or not the Wall was taken up the edge of this
-cliff, for the stratum is of a soft and yielding nature, and is
-continually being removed by the river below. Certain, however, it is,
-that the Wall, accompanied by its ditch, is still to be seen on the very
-brink of its summit. If it did not climb this steep, it is the only one
-which, in the course of the line from sea to sea, it refused—and if it
-did ascend it, it would more nearly resemble a leaning tower than a
-barrier wall.
-
-[Sidenote: THE HEIGHT OF THE WALL.]
-
-In no part of its course is the Wall entirely perfect, and therefore it
-is difficult to ascertain what its original height has been. Bede, whose
-cherished home was the monastery of Jarrow, anciently part of the parish
-of Wall’s-end, is the earliest author who gives its dimensions. He
-says—‘It is eight feet in breadth, and twelve in height, in a straight
-line from east to west, as is still visible to beholders.’ Subsequent
-writers assign to it a greater elevation. It is not unlikely that the
-venerable monk, who was no traveller, describes it as it existed in his
-own neighbourhood; and we can readily conceive that in a flat country,
-and upon the border of a navigable river, it would, even then, have
-suffered more from the hand of the spoiler than in the wilder regions of
-the West.
-
-In a letter written by Sir Christopher Ridley, is an account of the Wall
-as it stood about the year 1572. The writer says—
-
- Rycht worschipfull, where as you spake unto me for a certayn knowledge
- of one wall builded betwyxt the Brittons and Pightes (which we call
- the KEPE WALL) builded by the Pightes, sure theyr is one. The length
- whereof is about, I think, almost a C myles, bilded alwayis whar they
- cold upon the hyghtes, whereon about the greatest cragis was, and
- whare theyr was no cragis or hy placis theyr was a great stank cast of
- other syd, the bredth iij yardis, the hyght remanith in sum placis yet
- vij yardis, it goith from Bowlness in Cu'berland viij myles beyond
- Carlell upon the west sea cost till it comes to a town called the
- Wallis end besyd Tynemouth on the est sea.[15]
-
-Samson Erdeswick, an English antiquary of some celebrity, visited the
-Wall, in the year 1574.[16] His account is here given—
-
- As towching Hadrian’s[17] Wall, begyning abowt a town called Bonus
- standing vppon the river Sulway now called Eden. The sea ebbeth and
- floweth there. The forsaid Wall begynning there, and there yet
- standing of the heyth of 16 fote, for almost a quarter of a myle
- together, and so along the river syde estwards, they space of an eight
- myle by the shew of the trench, as certayne ruynes of castills in that
- wall, tyll a qwarter of a myle of Carlyole, and there passeth ower the
- river of Eden; and then goeth straight estwards hard by a late abbey
- called Lanvercost, and so crossing ower the mowntaynes toward
- Newcastell.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WIDTH OF THE WALL.]
-
-Camden, who visited the Wall in 1599, says—
-
- Within two furlongs of Carvoran, on a pretty high hill the Wall is
- still standing fifteen feet in height, and nine in breadth.
-
-These statements leave upon the mind an impression that the estimate of
-Bede is too low.
-
-In all probability, the Wall would be surmounted by a battlement of not
-less than four feet in height, and as this part of the structure would
-be the first to fall into decay, Bede’s calculation was probably
-irrespective of it. This, however, only gives us a total elevation of
-sixteen feet. Unless we reject the evidence of Ridley and Erdeswick, we
-must admit, even after making due allowance for error and exaggeration,
-that the Wall, when in its integrity, was eighteen or nineteen feet
-high. This elevation would be in keeping with its breadth.
-
-The thickness of the Wall varies considerably; in some places it is six
-feet, in others nine feet and a half.[18] Probably the prevailing width
-is eight feet, the measurement given by Bede.
-
-The frequency with which the thickness of the Wall varies, favours the
-idea that numerous gangs of labourers were simultaneously employed upon
-the work, and that each superintending centurion was allowed to use his
-discretion as to its width. The northern face of the Wall is continuous,
-but the southern has numerous outsets and insets measuring from four to
-twelve inches, at the points, doubtless, where the sections of the
-different companies joined.
-
-[Sidenote: THE NORTH FOSSE.]
-
-Throughout the whole of its length, the Wall is accompanied on its
-northern margin by a broad and deep FOSSE, which, by increasing the
-comparative height of the Wall, would add greatly to its strength. This
-portion of the Barrier may yet be traced, with trifling interruptions,
-from sea to sea. Even in places where the Wall has quite disappeared,
-its more lowly companion, the fosse, remains. In some fertile districts
-the plough has been carried over it in vain; owing to the moisture of
-the site, the corn sown upon it springs up with undue luxuriance, and is
-almost uniformly laid prostrate before it can ripen. From this
-circumstance the ground is frequently retained in grass, while the
-neighbouring parts are under tillage.[19] The fosse thus more readily
-catches the eye, and is likely longer to retain its groove-like form
-than if subjected to the ordinary process of cultivation.
-
-When the ditch traverses a flat or exposed country, a portion of the
-materials taken out of it has frequently been thrown upon its northern
-margin, so as to present to the enemy an additional rampart. In those
-positions, on the other hand, where its assistance could be of no avail,
-as along the edge of a cliff, the fosse does not appear.
-
-No small amount of labour has been expended in the excavation of the
-ditch; it has been drawn indifferently through alluvial soil, and rocks
-of sandstone, limestone, and basalt. The patient exertion which this
-involved is well seen on Tepper Moor, where enormous blocks of whin lie
-just as they have been lifted out of the fosse. The fosse never leaves
-the Wall to avoid a mechanical difficulty.
-
-The size of the ditch in several places is still considerable. To the
-east of Heddon-on-the-Wall, it measures thirty four feet across the top,
-and is nearly nine feet deep; as it descends the hill from Carvoran to
-Thirlwall, it measures forty feet across the top, fourteen across the
-bottom, and is ten feet deep. Westward of Tepper Moor is a portion
-which, reckoning from the top of the mound on its northern margin, has a
-depth of twenty feet.
-
-The dimensions of the fosse were probably not uniform throughout the
-line; but these examples prepare us to receive, as tolerably correct,
-Hutton’s estimate of its average size. ‘The ditch to the north,’ he says
-'was as near as convenient, thirty-six feet wide and fifteen feet
-deep.'[20]
-
-The care with which the fosse was dressed, has varied with the taste of
-the overseer and the forbearance of the enemy. In some tracts, the work
-presents as smooth and trim an aspect as a modern railway cutting; in
-others, marks of haste, carelessness, or sudden surprise, appear. The
-curious circumstance which Hodgson describes in the following paragraph
-may be seen in more than one locality:—
-
- 'A little west of Portgate, the appearance of the fosse is still, to
- the eye that loves and understands antiquity, very imposing and grand.
- The earth taken out of it lies spread abroad to the north, in lines
- just as the workmen wheeled it out and left it. The tracks of their
- barrows, with a slight mound on each side remain unaltered in
- form.'[21]
-
-[Illustration: The works near the 18th mile-stone West of Newcastle.]
-
-[Illustration: The works half a mile west of Carraw.]
-
-[Sidenote: THE VALLUM.]
-
-The VALLUM or TURF WALL, is uniformly to the south of the stone Wall. It
-consists of three ramparts and a fosse. One of these ramparts is placed
-close upon the southern edge of the ditch, the two others of larger
-dimensions[22] stand, one to the north, and the other to the south of
-it, at the distance of about twenty-four feet. The annexed sections of
-the works exhibit their present condition. They are drawn to the scale
-of seventy-five feet to the inch. The Wall is in these parts, unhappily,
-entirely removed.
-
-The ramparts, in some parts of the line, stand, even at present, six or
-seven feet above the level of the neighbouring ground.[23] They are
-composed of earth, mingled, not unfrequently, with masses of stone.
-Occasionally, the stone preponderates to such an extent as to yield to
-the hand of the modern spoiler, ready materials for the formation of
-stone dikes. In several places they are being quarried with this view.
-
-The fosse of the Vallum is of a character similar to the fosse of the
-stone Wall; but, judging from present appearances, its dimensions have
-been rather less. It, too, has been frequently cut through beds of
-stone.
-
-The question will occasionally occur to the wanderer by the Wall, whence
-were the materials obtained for constructing the mounds of the Vallum?
-With the exception of the fosse, there are no marks of excavation in the
-neighbourhood, and that the fosse of the Vallum would not yield
-materials sufficient for the purpose, is abundantly evident.[24]
-
-[Sidenote: USE OF THE VALLUM.]
-
-The contents of the ditch on the north of the Wall have probably gone to
-assist in the formation of these lines. This statement of course
-proceeds upon the supposition that the Wall and the Vallum were
-contemporaneous works. Upon the same assumption, it may be added that
-the ramparts of the Vallum are probably indebted for some portion of the
-stone which they contain, to the chippings of the Wall.
-
-Although the distance between the stone Wall and the Vallum is, as
-already observed, perpetually varying, the lines of the Vallum maintain
-amongst themselves nearly the same relative position throughout their
-entire course.
-
-No apparent paths of egress have been made through these southern lines
-of fortification. The only mode of communication with the country to the
-south, originally contemplated, seems to have been by the gateways of
-the stations.
-
-If we adopt the theory that the Wall and the Vallum exhibit unity of
-design, a question of some importance arises—With what view was the
-Vallum constructed? Hodgson, with much probability, conceives that,
-whilst the Wall undertook the harder duty of warding off the professedly
-hostile tribes of Caledonia, the Vallum was intended as a protection
-against sudden surprise from the south. The natives of the country on
-the south side of the Wall, though conquered, were not to be depended
-upon; in the event of their kinsmen in the north gaining an advantage,
-they would be ready to avail themselves of it. The Romans knew this, and
-with characteristic prudence made themselves secure on both sides.
-
-[Sidenote: PECULIAR CONSTRUCTION OF THE VALLUM.]
-
-But, whatever we may conceive to have been the design of the Vallum, the
-peculiarity of its form will excite the attention of the enquirer,
-though probably without his arriving at any satisfactory explanation.
-Supposing, according to the common theory, that the Vallum was an
-independent fortification, erected long before the Wall, to resist a
-northern foe, why was not the ditch, as in the case of the stone Wall,
-drawn along the northern edge of the northern agger? I cannot supply an
-answer. A similar difficulty meets us on the supposition that it was
-meant to guard against attack from the other side. Again, what part did
-the smaller rampart on the south edge of the fosse perform? Possibly it
-may have been intended as a foot-hold for the soldiers when fighting on
-this platform against the revolted Britons south of the barrier.
-
-The third, and perhaps the most important, part of the barrier line
-consisted of the structures that were formed for the accommodation of
-the soldiery, and for the ready transmission of troops and stores.
-Neither stone walls, nor ditches, nor earthen ramparts, would alone have
-proved material impediments to the incursions of the Caledonians—
-
- An iron race, ...
- Foes to the gentler genius of the plain.
-
-It is reported that Agesilaus, when asked where were the walls of
-Sparta, pointed to his soldiers and said, ‘There.’ The Romans placed
-their chief reliance on the valour and discipline of their armies,
-though they did not despise the assistance of mural lines. In a foreign
-country, to which it was difficult to transmit relays of troops, it
-became a matter of great importance to economize the lives of the
-soldiery. Hence arose the Wall.
-
-Those portions of the great barrier which yet await our consideration,
-are the STATIONS, the MILE-CASTLES, the TURRETS, and the ROADS.
-
-[Sidenote: THE STATIONS.]
-
-At distances along the line which average nearly four miles, STATIONARY
-CAMPS (_stationes_ or _castra stativa_) were erected. These received
-their distinctive appellation, in contradistinction from those temporary
-ramparts, which were thrown up when an army halted for a night or for
-some brief period.
-
-The stations on the line of the Wall were military cities, adapted for
-the residence of the chief who commanded the district, and providing
-secure lodgment for the powerful body of soldiery he had under him. Here
-the commandant held his court; hence issued decrees which none might
-gainsay; here Roman arts, and literature, and luxury, struggled for
-existence, when all around was ignorance and barbarity.
-
-Some of the stations, though connected with the Wall, have evidently, as
-will afterwards be shewn, been built before it: this does not prove that
-they did not form part of the great design. To secure a safe retreat for
-the soldiers employed upon the work would necessarily be the first care
-of the builder.
-
-The stations are uniformly quadrangular in their shape, though somewhat
-rounded at the corners, and contain an area of from three to five acres.
-A stone wall, five feet thick, encloses them, and has probably in every
-instance been strengthened by a fosse, and one or more earthen ramparts.
-They usually stand upon ground which slopes to the south, and are
-naturally defended upon one side at least.
-
-[Sidenote: THE PLACE OF THE STATIONS.]
-
-The Wall, when it does not fall in with the northern wall of a station,
-usually comes up to the northern cheek of its eastern and western
-gateways. The Vallum, in like manner, usually approaches close to the
-southern wall of the station, or comes up to the defence of the southern
-side of the eastern and western portals. Examples of these arrangements
-are given in Plate II. At least three of the stations, it must, however,
-be observed, are quite detached from both lines of fortification, being
-situated to the south of them. They may have been members of Agricola’s
-chain of forts.
-
-Probably all the stations have, on their erection, been provided, after
-the usual method of Roman castrametation, with four gateways; in several
-instances one or more of these portals have been walled up at an early
-period, in consequence, probably, of some natural weakness in the
-situation.
-
-Narrow streets, intersecting each other at right angles, occupy the
-interior of the stations, and abundant ruins, outside the walls,
-indicate the fact that extensive suburbs have, in every instance, been
-required for the accommodation of the camp-followers.
-
-[Sidenote: THE FERTILITY OF THE STATIONS.]
-
-In selecting a spot for a station, care has been taken that an abundant
-supply of water should be at hand. The springs, rivulets, wells, and
-aqueducts, whence they procured the needful fluid, are still, in many
-places, to be traced; and never did water more limpid, more sparkling,
-more invigorating, lave the lips of man, than that which flows from
-these sources.
-
-For the most part, the stations—cities which for centuries were the
-abodes of busy men, and which resounded with the hum of multitudes, and
-the clash of arms,—now present a scene of utter desolation. The wayfarer
-may pass through them without knowing it; the streets are levelled, the
-temples are overthrown, and the sons and daughters of Italy, Mauritania,
-and Spain, whose adopted homes they were, no longer encounter him. The
-sheep, depasturing the grass-grown ruins, look listlessly upon the
-passer-by, and the curlew, wheeling above his head, screams as at the
-presence of an intruder. Whether, or not, sites naturally fertile were
-chosen for the stations does not appear; but certain it is, that they
-are now for the most part coated with a sward more green and more
-luxuriant than that which covers the contiguous grounds. Centuries of
-occupation have given them a degree of fertility which, probably, they
-will never lose.[25] One can scarcely turn up the soil without meeting,
-not only with fragments of Roman pottery and other imperishable
-articles, but with the bones of oxen, the tusks of boars, the horns of
-deer, and other animal remains. The debris of some of these cities is
-considered to be more valuable for farm purposes, than the recent
-produce of the fold-yard, and is used as such.
-
-[Sidenote: THE NAMES OF THE STATIONS.]
-
-It is not a little remarkable that the names of the stations, which must
-have been household words in the days of Roman occupation, have for the
-most part been obliterated from the local vocabulary; they are now only
-to be recalled, and that with difficulty, by exhuming the stony records
-of the past, and comparing them with the notices of contemporaneous
-geographers. The truth is, that military reasons dictated the choice of
-the stations,—commercial facilities gave rise to modern cities. Long may
-the mere military outpost be consigned to the shepherd’s use, whilst the
-wharf and the warehouse are beset by the busy crowd!
-
-According to Horsley, the stations on the line of the Wall, were
-eighteen in number, besides some that were placed in its immediate
-vicinity, and lent to it important aid. Hodgson, conceiving that Horsley
-has in one instance mistaken a mere summer fortification for a
-stationary camp, reduces the number of stations on the line itself to
-seventeen.
-
-[Sidenote: THE STATIONS ACCORDING TO THE NOTITIA.]
-
-In ascertaining the number and the names of the stations, a most
-valuable document has come down to our times from the period of Roman
-occupation. The ‘Notitia Imperii’ was probably written about the end of
-the reign of Theodosius the younger, and was certainly composed before
-the Romans abandoned this island. It is a sort of list of the several
-military and civil officers and magistrates both in the eastern and
-western empires, with the places at which they were stationed. It may,
-in fact, be regarded as the roll-call of the Roman army. The sixty-ninth
-section of the work contains a list of the prefects and tribunes under
-the command of the Honourable the Duke of Britain. The portion of the
-section in which we are at present interested is headed, _Item per
-lineam valli_—Also along the line of the Wall—and contains the following
-list:—
-
- The Tribune of the fourth cohort of the Lingones[26] at Segedunum.
- The Tribune of the cohort of the Cornovii at Pons Ælii.
- The Prefect of the first ala, or wing, of the Astures[27] at
- Condercum.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of the Frixagi at Vindobala.
- The Prefect of the Savinian ala at Hunnum.
- The Prefect of the second ala of Astures at Cilurnum.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of the Batavians at Procolitia.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of the Tungri at Borcovicus.
- The Tribune of the fourth cohort of the Gauls at Vindolana.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of the Astures at Æsica.
- The Tribune of the second cohort of the Dalmatians at Magna.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of Dacians, styled Ælia, at
- Amboglanna.
- The Prefect of the ala, called Petriana, at Petriana.
- The Prefect of a detachment of Moors, styled Aureliani, at
- Aballaba.
- The Tribune of the second cohort of the Lergi at Congavata.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of the Spaniards at Axelodunum.
- The Tribune of the second cohort of the Thracians at Gabrosentis.
- The Tribune of the first marine cohort, styled Ælia, at
- Tunnocelum.
- The Tribune of the first cohort of the Morini at Glannibanta.
- The Tribune of the third cohort of the Nervii at Alionis.
- The Cuneus of men in armour at Bremetenracum.
- The Prefect of the first ala, styled Herculean, at Olenacum.
- The Tribune of the sixth cohort of the Nervii at Virosidum.
-
-[Sidenote: THE CORROBORATION OF LETTERED STONES.]
-
-It is not said, nor does it appear, that all these twenty-three stations
-were exactly upon the line of the Wall itself. It is very plain indeed,
-says Horsley, that according to the Notitia, SEGEDUNUM was the first,
-for that immediately follows the title _per lineam valli_; but he has
-not told us expressly at what place or station they end.[28] Those
-stations which were not on the Wall were probably in its vicinity, and
-were connected with it by military ways. The stations in this list are
-manifestly, as this writer also observes, set down in some order, and
-those that were near to each other are placed together;[29] so that if
-we ascertain the identity of some of them, we may form a pretty correct
-estimate of the position of the intermediate or neighbouring stations.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-When, in the ruins of a station, inscribed stones are found bearing the
-name of a cohort mentioned in the Notitia, the inference is natural,
-that, in most cases at least, the imperial Notitia will furnish us with
-a key to the ancient designation of the station. The argument becomes
-irresistible, when, in several successive instances the designations
-thus obtained correspond exactly with the order of the places as given
-in the Notitia. Let us take an example. At the station of Chesters, on
-the North Tyne, several slabs have been found, bearing the name of the
-second ala, or wing, of the Astures. One of these is here
-represented.[30] It is a sepulchral stone, and bears at the end of the
-third and the beginning of the fourth lines the words—
-
- · · · · · · ALAE
- II ASTVR[UM]· · · ·
-
-[Sidenote: CILURNUM APPROPRIATED.]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Now, as the Notitia represents this ala, or troop of cavalry, to have
-been stationed at Cilurnum, the probability is, that the camp on the
-west bank of the North Tyne is the CILURNUM of Roman Britain.
-
-Immediately following ‘The second wing of the Astures at CILURNUM,’ on
-the Notitia list, is, ‘The first cohort of the Batavians at PROCOLITIA.’
-Now the station immediately west of Chesters is Carrawburgh, and here a
-slab and an altar have been found, inscribed with the name of this very
-cohort. The woodcut represents one of them,[31] an altar to Fortune,
-which is thus inscribed—
-
- FORTVNAE
- COH I BATAVOR[UM]
- CVI PRÆEST
- MELACCINIVS
- MARCELLUS PRÆ[FECTUS]
-
- To Fortune
- The first cohort of the Batavians
- Commanded by
- Melaccinius
- Marcellus, Prefect.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The conclusion is natural,—Carrawburgh is the PROCOLITIA of the Notitia.
-
-[Sidenote: BORCOVICUS ASCERTAINED.]
-
-Moving westward, the next station we come to is Housesteads; here
-numerous inscribed stones have been discovered, which mention the first
-cohort of the Tungri. One of these, an altar to Jupiter, which is now in
-the possession of the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and
-is preserved in their museum, is accurately given in the accompanying
-engraving.
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- ET NVMINIBUS
- AVG[USTI] COH[ORS] I TV-
- NGRORVM
- MIL[LIARIA] CVI PRÆE-
- ST Q[UINTUS] VERIVS
- SVPERSTIS
- PRÆEFECTVS
-
- To Jupiter, the greatest and best,
- And the Deities
- Of Augustus; the first cohort of the
- Tungri,
- A milliary one,[32] commanded by
- Quintus Verius
- Superstis,
- Prefect.
-
-The correspondence between the Notitia and the sculptures derived from
-this station, is again too striking to admit a doubt, that the
-Housesteads of the modern shepherd is the BORCOVICUS of the Roman hosts.
-
-[Sidenote: THE FATE OF LETTERED STONES.]
-
-In this way, the ancient designations of the stations from SEGEDUNUM,
-Wall’s-end, to AMBOGLANNA, Birdoswald, have been accurately ascertained;
-but no stony memorial of the past has arisen to confirm the Notitia
-account of the stations westward of this point. The peculiarly fertile
-nature of the soil between the river Irthing and the Solway has been
-inimical to the preservation of the Wall and its antiquities. The wants
-of a numerous population rendered stones of every kind valuable; and in
-an ignorant age, when anything in the shape of a letter was regarded as
-a thing of evil omen, those most precious to the historian were the
-first to be sacrificed.[33] [Sidenote: THE STATIONS WEST OF
-AMBOGLANNA.]Since the accuracy of the Notitia has been confirmed in so
-many instances, it is but fair to conclude, that it may be safely taken
-as a guide in fixing the Roman designations of the remaining stations
-along the line. Cambeck Fort is the station next to Birdoswald; the
-Notitia places PETRIANA next in order to AMBOGLANNA, which has been
-ascertained to be Birdoswald—doubtless, according to this reasoning,
-Cambeck Fort is the ancient PETRIANA. In this way, could it be certainly
-ascertained which were the stations _per lineam valli_, each station
-might have its Roman name restored, though not a syllable of the ancient
-designation be retained in the modern cognomen. We should have but to
-read over the roll-call, and let each camp in succession answer to its
-name. Unhappily, there is some doubt as to which are the stations along
-the line of the Wall. Horsley conceives that Watch Cross is the station
-next in order to Cambeck Fort, and, accordingly, calls it ABALLABA;
-Stanwix, Burgh, Drumburgh, and Bowness, he successively denominates,
-after the Notitia, CONGAVATA, AXELODUNUM, GABROSENTIS, and TUNNOCELUM.
-Subsequent inquirers, and, in particular, the Rev. John Hodgson, have
-seen reason to suspect that Watch Cross was not a station _per lineam
-valli_. It probably was destitute of stone walls, and was surrounded
-only by a rampart of earth.[34] It seems to have been a mere _castra
-æstiva_—a summer encampment, and consequently, was not entitled to rank
-with those strongholds that were intended to withstand all foes at all
-seasons. Should Watch Cross be laid aside, the whole of Horsley’s
-subsequent allocation of the Notitia names is thrown out of course. It
-is much to be desired that some ‘Witch Stone’ would start from its
-hiding-place in the foundation of some cottage or castle in the
-neighbourhood of any one of the stations west of Cambeck Fort, and
-resolve the interesting question. Until such an event does occur, some
-doubt must hang upon the subject. The reader will now understand how it
-is, that, according to some authorities, the stations immediately
-dependent upon the Wall are said to be eighteen in number, and according
-to others only seventeen. For the reason just referred to, the Notitia
-names of the stations are not given on the Map of the Wall westward of
-PETRIANA.
-
-The remainder of the stations of the Notitia were probably out-posts,
-intended to give support to the whole structure. The difficulty of
-rightly appropriating the Notitia appellations to such of these as have
-not yielded inscribed stones, is even greater than in the case of those
-which follow more closely the line of the Wall.
-
-[Sidenote: THE EXTINCTION OF ROMAN NAMES.]
-
-Before leaving this subject, the reader will do well to compare the
-ancient with the modern names of the stations, as far as they are
-ascertained; in doing so, he will be struck with the almost total
-absence of any similarity between them. So complete, it would appear,
-has been the subversion by Pict, and Saxon, and Dane, of the Roman
-domination in the north of England, that the very names of the cities
-which were occupied by the empire for centuries have perished,
-
- And, like this unsubstantial pageant faded,
- Leave not a rack behind.
-
-[Sidenote: THE CASTELLA OR MILE-CASTLES.]
-
-In addition to the Stations, CASTELLA or MILE-CASTLES were provided for
-the use of the troops which garrisoned the Wall. They derive their
-modern name from the circumstance of their being usually placed at the
-distance of a Roman mile from each other. They were quadrangular
-buildings, differing somewhat in size, but usually measuring from sixty
-to seventy feet in each direction. With two exceptions, they have been
-placed against the southern face of the Wall; the castle at Portgate,
-every trace of which is now obliterated, and another near ÆSICA, the
-foundations of which may, with some difficulty, still be traced, seem to
-have projected equally to the north and south of the Wall. Though
-generally placed about seven furlongs from each other, the nature of the
-ground, independently of distance, has frequently determined the spot of
-their location. Whenever the Wall has had occasion to traverse a river
-or a mountain pass, a mile-castle has uniformly been placed on the one
-side or other to guard the defile. The mile-towers have generally had
-but one gate of entrance, which was of very substantial masonry, and was
-uniformly placed in the centre of the south wall; the most perfect
-specimen now remaining, however, has a northern, as well as a southern
-gateway. It is not easy to conjecture what were the internal
-arrangements of these buildings; probably they afforded little
-accommodation beyond what their four strong walls and well-barred gates
-gave. Hodgson states that when the foundations of the castle northeast
-of Housesteads were removed in 1832, the remains of an inner wall were
-seen, all round, parallel to the outer walls. He hence infers that the
-space between the walls has been roofed, and the centre uncovered.
-Deferring the further discussion of this subject until, in the course of
-our local description, we arrive at the most perfect specimen
-remaining—the mile-castle near Cawfields—the reader is meanwhile
-referred to the lithograph which depicts this interesting remain.
-
-[Sidenote: THE TURRETS OR WATCH TOWERS.]
-
-Between the mile-castles, four subsidiary buildings, generally
-denominated TURRETS or WATCH TOWERS, were placed. They were little more
-than stone sentry-boxes. It is with much difficulty that they can now be
-traced. Horsley, in his day, complained that ‘scarce three of them could
-be made out in succession.’ Would that the modern antiquary could make
-the same lamentation! Scarcely one along the whole line can with
-certainty be determined. They contained an interior space of eight or
-ten feet square. Horsley states the distance between them to have been
-three hundred and eight yards—the whole number would consequently be
-three hundred and twenty. Though small buildings, they were, like all
-the works of the Romans, built for perpetuity. Hodgson found the walls
-of one near Birdoswald to be nearly three feet thick. Such were the
-buildings provided for the lodgement and security of the cohorts, whose
-hard lot it was to guard this frontier barrier. A plan of Cilurnum, and
-the works in its vicinity, taken from Warburton’s Vallum Romanum, in
-Plate II., exhibits these arrangements, and shews, as he remarks, how
-the Wall and the Vallum, the stations, turrets, and castles, yielded
-mutual assistance to each other.
-
-[Sidenote: THE MILITARY WAY.]
-
-But all these arrangements were not enough; without ROADS, one important
-element in the strength of the Great Barrier would have been wanting.
-Nothing economizes military force more effectually than the possession
-of means for quickly concentrating all available resources upon any
-point that the enemy may select for attack. The advance of Roman armies,
-and the formation of roads, were uniformly contemporaneous. The Barrier
-had its MILITARY WAY. It is impossible to over-estimate the importance
-of this part of the works. Without it, all the rest would have been
-useless. It would not, perhaps, be incorrect to say that both Vallum and
-Wall were subsidiary to it, and that the chief use of these structures
-was to guard the road, and to protect and conceal from view, both on the
-north and south, the troops that marched along it. The modern history of
-the district traversed by the Wall furnishes a singular corroboration of
-this opinion. In the rebellion of 1715, the operations of the royalist
-forces were greatly impeded by the absence of a good road between
-Newcastle and Carlisle. In the rebellion of 1745, a similar
-inconvenience was experienced. Marshal Wade was at Newcastle when the
-Pretender appeared before the city of Carlisle. The commandant of the
-city immediately sent an express to inform him of his position. The
-general’s answer contained these words:—
-
- Newcastle, November 10th, 1745, 7 o’clock.
-
- GENTLEMEN,
-
- I have just now the favour of your letter by express, with an account
- of the Rebels’ approach near your city. The spirit and resolution with
- which you exert yourselves is very commendable, and I hope will
- contribute to disappoint the Rebels of any design they may have formed
- against you. ..... _I cannot follow them, the way they may probably
- take being impassable for Artillery_ ..... but I hope to meet them in
- Lancashire, and make them repent of their rashness. ... I wish you all
- imaginable success,
-
- And am, Gentlemen, your
- Most obedient humble servant,
- GEORGE WADE.[35]
-
-[Sidenote: THE IMPORTANCE OF MILITARY ROADS.]
-
-Thus, for want of a military road across the Isthmus, the importance of
-which had been perceived by the Romans sixteen centuries previously, the
-safety of the kingdom was perilled, and a hostile force permitted to
-pour itself into the heart of England. After such terrible warnings,
-government at last interfered, and an act of Parliament was passed which
-set forth in the preamble:—
-
- Whereas the making and keeping a free and open communication between
- the city of Carlisle and the town of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, by a road
- for the passage of troops, horses, and carriages, at all times of the
- year, would be of great use and service to the public, and it hath
- been found by experience, that the want of such road, passage, and
- communication, hath been attended with great inconvenience and danger
- to this kingdom. ....: Be it enacted, &c.
-
-The road now known in the district by the name of the Military Road was
-accordingly made at the public expense. It is not a little remarkable
-that it takes precisely the track which the engineers of Rome had so
-many centuries before selected. In the map of the Wall which accompanies
-this work, the modern military road is delineated.
-
-The importance of a good road, protected by military posts at short
-intervals, in securing the tranquillity of a turbulent district, is
-strikingly shewn in another instance. That part of the great highway
-between Madrid and Cadiz which crosses the wild hills of the Sierra
-barrier, was formerly left to the robber and the wolf, without roads or
-villages. A road, admirably planned, was at length executed by Charles
-Le Maur, an able engineer in the service of Charles III. The task of
-guarding it was the difficulty next to be overcome. For this purpose,
-Spain, who had colonized the new world, and expelled her rich Jews and
-industrious Moors, was compelled to resort to foreign assistance. In
-1768, a colony of Germans and Swiss settled upon the line on condition
-of maintaining a constant guard.[36] This is done to the present day.
-Several consecutive towns, such as Carolina, in Andalusia, are occupied
-by people speaking nothing but the German language, and regular patrols
-are constantly on the move from one town to another. These Germans have
-their land in better order and cultivation than the Spaniards. This
-Spanish highway, with its stations at regular intervals, with its
-foreign guards, who from generation to generation maintain the tongue
-and the habits of their fatherland, presents too many points of
-resemblance to the manner in which the northern frontier of Roman power
-in Britain was defended, to be passed over without obtaining at least
-this brief notice.
-
-[Sidenote: MILITARY ROADS.]
-
-Gordon, in his Itinerarium Septentrionale, says, that two military ways
-belonged to the Barrier; a small Military Way a little to the south of
-the Wall, and, beyond it, the Great Military Way. In addition to these,
-Horsley enumerates a third, which he calls the Old Military Way. Horsley
-conceives that the north rampart of the Vallum constitutes the road
-which was used by Agricola and Hadrian in transporting their troops from
-station to station, and that when Severus built the Wall, he formed a
-new road—the great military way—which pursued an independent course,
-sometimes coinciding with the old road, but more frequently keeping
-nearer to the Wall. That there may have been a path-way immediately
-under the Wall which went from turret to turret, on which the Roman
-sentries marched with slow and measured pace, when they did not choose
-to expose themselves upon the parapets of the Wall, is not improbable;
-though we now look in vain for any traces of it. But that the north
-agger of the Vallum was thrown up either by Agricola or Hadrian to serve
-the purposes of a road, is a proposition too startling to be received
-even on the authority of the learned Horsley. In some places, indeed, it
-is sufficiently flattened to admit of the passage of traffic along it,
-but in the greater part of the course where the works of the Vallum are
-not under cultivation, the rampart is too conical, too narrow, and too
-ragged, to admit of such a use. Excepting in those situations, where
-stones are mingled with the whole mass of the agger, it exhibits no
-signs of having been paved.[37] The manner in which all the ramparts of
-the Vallum on Tepper Moor are encumbered with blocks of basalt, clearly
-shews, that here at least there has been no road. Besides, few who trace
-the lines of the Vallum from sea to sea, and observe their complete
-parallelism, will be able to resist the conclusion, that the whole of
-the works were contemporaneous; whereas, Horsley’s theory ascribes part
-to Agricola, and part to Hadrian: moreover, it may be added, that so
-much do the northern and the southernmost aggers resemble each other,
-that unbiassed observers will scarcely entertain a doubt, that they have
-been thrown up to serve a precisely similar purpose.
-
-[Sidenote: THE MILITARY WAY.]
-
-Happily, there is no room for doubt respecting the other road, which
-Horsley calls Severus’ Greater Military Way, as in the untilled
-districts of the country it may be traced for several consecutive miles;
-and if we receive the theory, that the Murus and Vallum are one work,
-there is no need to seek for any other.
-
-[Sidenote: CONSTRUCTION OF THE ROAD.]
-
-THE MILITARY WAY is usually about seventeen feet wide, and is composed
-of rubble so arranged as to present a rounded surface, elevated in its
-centre a foot or eighteen inches above the adjoining ground. When
-carried along the slope of a hill, the hanging side is made up by large
-kerb-stones. In most places where it still remains, it is completely
-grass-grown, but may, notwithstanding, be easily distinguished from the
-neighbouring ground by the colour of its herbage, the dryness of its
-substratum allowing the growth of a finer description of plant. For the
-same reason, a sheep-track generally runs along it. For the
-accommodation of the soldiery, the road went from castle to castle, and
-so, from station to station. In doing this, it did not always keep close
-to the Wall, but took the easiest path between the required points. In
-traversing the precipitous grounds between Sewingshields and Thirlwall,
-the ingenuity of the engineer has been severely tried; but most
-successfully has he performed his task. Whilst, as previously observed,
-the Wall shoots over the highest and steepest summits, the road pursues
-its tortuous course from one platform of the rock to another, so as to
-bring the traveller from mile-castle to mile-castle by the easiest
-possible gradients. Often has it been my lot to notice how naturally,
-towards the close of a fatiguing day’s march, the less zealous of our
-exploring party, more anxious to select an easy track than to keep close
-companionship with the Wall, have, most unconsciously, pursued the route
-of the Roman way. But, notwithstanding all the art of the engineer, the
-steepness of the road in some places is such, that most of our modern
-carmen, with all their boasted skill, would be greatly puzzled if
-required to traverse it with a waggon laden with military stores.[38]
-
-[Sidenote: ADDITIONAL ROAD.]
-
-Although the road now described has probably been the only carriage-way
-between the two great lines of fortification, another, situated to the
-south of them, has afforded direct communication between some of the
-inland stations. From CILURNUM to MAGNA, the Wall forms a curved line,
-in order to gain the highest hills of the district. For the
-accommodation of those whose business did not require them to call at
-any intermediate point, a road went, like the string of a bow, direct
-from the one station to the other. This road, which is shewn in Plate
-II., went near the modern village of Newburgh, where Roman remains are
-occasionally found, and passed by the north gate of VINDOLANA,
-Chesterholm, near to which a Roman mile-stone still stands. Some
-portions of the ancient pavement still remain near Morwood. It is
-probable that this Roman Military Way was further continued, south of
-the Wall, direct to Stanwix.
-
-[Sidenote: SPEAKING TUBES IN THE WALL.]
-
-If tradition is to be credited, the Romans were not satisfied with roads
-as a means of rapidly communicating information; speaking-trumpets or
-pipes, we are told, ran along the whole length of the Wall. Of this,
-Drayton, long ago, sang in his Polyolbion—
-
- Townes stood upon my length, where garrisons were laid Their limits to
- defend; and for my greater aid, With turrets I was built, where
- sentinels were plac’d To watch upon the Pict; so me my makers grac’d
- With hollow pipes of brasse, along me still they went, By which they
- in one fort still to another sent, By speaking in the same, to tell
- them what to doe, And soe from sea to sea could I be whispered
- through.
-
-Sir Christopher Ridley, in his letter tells us, that—
-
- In this Wall was theyr a trunck of brass, or whatever kynd of mettal,
- which went from one place to another along the Wall, and came into the
- Captaynes chamber, whereat they had watchers for the same, and yf
- theyr had bene stryfe or business betwyxt the enemies, and that the
- watchmen did blow a horn in at the end of the truncke that came into
- the chamber, and so from one to one; there was certayn money payed
- yearly to the mantenance of this trunck by the inhabitants theyrabout,
- and doith yet pay to some gentilmen in Northymberland, the which money
- is called horn-geld money.[39]
-
-[Sidenote: THE THEORY PROBABLY INCORRECT.]
-
-Camden also refers to this curious tradition. Once, but only once, have
-I met with this story in my own rambles. Such myths will not long
-outlive the introduction of the electric telegraph. ‘There are no old
-people upon the Wall now,’ as a man of three-score lately said to me,
-when I was endeavouring to persuade him to gather up from his still more
-ancient neighbour the fire-side lore of by-gone times.
-
-It is curious to observe that a similar statement is made respecting the
-BARRIER of the UPPER ISTHMUS. A correspondent writes—
-
- One old man told me, that when he was young, on digging through one of
- the wall stations—at Upper Croy—they came upon stone pipes, laid
- horizontally in the soil, and joined at the ends like those for water.
- From the elevation of the place, it is quite obvious that they could
- not be water conduits. This old person said that the idea he had heard
- ‘learned people’ give of these pipes, was, that they were for speaking
- through. That the pipes were found, and made of stone, not clay, is
- certain.
-
-Pipes of lead are occasionally met with in the ruins of the stations,
-and pipes of burnt clay are of very frequent occurrence. To this
-circumstance the tradition probably owes its rise. They are not,
-however, found in the Wall, and when placed in the stations, seem to
-have served a different purpose. One use to which the tile-tubes have
-been put has been the transmission of warm air throughout an apartment.
-The walls of one of the chambers of the ‘baths’ at HUNNUM were lined
-with them. Others may have been used, especially in high situations, for
-collecting rain-water from the roofs of the dwellings, and conveying it
-to cisterns. Besides, the inutility of the contrivance militates against
-the probability of its adoption: the sentinels at their posts could
-easily transmit hasty intelligence from end to end, by the voice or by
-horns, without pipes imbedded in the Wall, which, even if constructed,
-would probably be useless for such a purpose.
-
-This traditionary fiction is probably of more than mediæval antiquity.
-Xiphiline, in his life of Severus, tells some such marvellous tale about
-the towers of Byzantium.
-
- * * * * *
-
-[Sidenote: THE MASONRY OF THE WALL.]
-
-A description of the MASONRY of the erections which have passed in
-review before us will conclude this general examination of the Barrier.
-
-The following extract of a letter with which I have been favoured by
-Robert Rawlinson, esq., Inspector of the Board of Health, will form an
-excellent introduction to the subject.
-
- I have several times thought over the subject of the Roman Wall since
- I had the pleasure of seeing you. The Romans constructed works with
- many different kinds of masonry; no doubt all chosen to suit the
- material used, the place, and the skill of the builders. In Rome, and
- Italy generally, works of great magnificence were constructed, when
- the art displayed was equal to the grandeur of the design. Such a work
- was the famed Arch of Trajan, the Arch of Septimius Severus, the Arch
- of Constantine, the Baths of Diocletian, and others. In these works,
- construction of the highest order was used, and the sculptor emulated
- the architect. The lettered altars and sculptured figures found on the
- line of ‘the Wall’ must not be compared with the best workmanship of
- Rome.
-
-[Sidenote: NATIVE LABOURERS EMPLOYED.]
-
- I am quite satisfied, in my own mind, that the general character of
- the work on the Wall was adapted to suit the time, the country, and
- more especially, the labourers employed on the work. The Wall, being a
- work of defence, had to be constructed in haste; the country was wild,
- rude, and without roads, excepting such as the Romans caused to be
- made. This ‘caused to be made’ is I think, the key to the character of
- the masonry chosen.... The form of construction is the easiest and
- strongest which rude, uneducated men could accomplish; and, with good
- mortar, such as the Romans knew so well how to make, is the kind of
- work calculated to endure for centuries, as we find it has done....
- The works of the Wall I consider to have been chiefly constructed by
- the natives, under the armed superintendence and teaching of the
- soldier. The Roman knew no right but that of the conqueror; his object
- was conquest for use; use of the land, and the labour that was upon
- it. The Roman soldier was a fighting animal, and was so far civilized
- as to know how to make the comparative savage do his work upon his
- plan, and this was shaped to suit the labour used. Consider the length
- of the Wall, and the extent of the works upon it, and it will be seen
- that for the army to have constructed it, would have been to have kept
- them constantly working instead of watching and fighting.
-
- Some years ago I had a large quantity of heavy masonry to construct on
- one of the railways. It was not unlike the Roman Wall in character. I
- found a difficulty in dealing with the regularly educated mason, and
- bought several scores of trowels and hammers; these I placed in the
- hands of uneducated labourers, set them to work under the
- superintendence of educated foremen, looking after the whole myself.
- This is a case similar to the one I have imagined for the great Wall;
- only the work my labourers performed had more difficulties about it
- than the Wall, and yet, these uneducated men performed the work
- perfectly.[40]
-
- Think of the Roman bringing in at the sword’s point, hundreds of
- captive natives, placing for the first time tools in their hands,
- indicating the work to be done, and compelling the trembling slaves to
- do it![41]
-
-The stones employed in building the Wall and stations were very
-carefully selected. When good stones were to be had near at hand, they
-were taken; but those of inferior quality were never used to avoid the
-labour of bringing better from a distance. In some parts of the line, in
-Cumberland especially, the stone must have been brought from quarries
-seven or eight miles off. A quartzose grit was generally selected not
-only on account of its hardness, but because its rough surface gave it a
-firmer adhesion to the mortar. The stone which has been used in the
-works at Wallsend is of a much coarser grit than any that is found in
-the neighbourhood.
-
-[Sidenote: THE QUARRIES USED.]
-
-The quarries from which the stone has been procured can in many
-instances be precisely ascertained. At Fallowfield, not far from
-CILURNUM, is an ancient quarry on the face of which the words,
-
- [P]ETRA FLAVI CARANTINI,
-
-the rock of Flavius Carantinus—are still to be traced. The vignette at
-the close of this part represents its present condition. On opening out,
-in the year 1837, some old quarries on the high, brown hill of Borcum,
-near Thorngrafton, a small copper vessel was found, containing a large
-number of coins, all of the upper empire. Another Roman quarry existed
-on Haltwhistle Fell. In a paper recently read before the Society of
-Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Mr. John Clayton says—
-
- In riding over Haltwhistle Fell, before its enclosure, in the summer
- of 1844, I came upon some workmen employed in re-opening an old
- quarry. They told me they had met with a ‘written stone’; I
- dismounted, and climbed the face of the rock, when I found inscribed
- in letters clear and fresh
-
- LEG. VI. V.
-
- From its position on a wide waste, far removed from any abode, but in
- the immediate vicinity of the Roman Wall, this quarry could not
- possibly have been used for any other purpose than to supply stones
- for the building of the Wall; and from the freshness of the letters of
- the inscription, it must have been filled up with earth soon after the
- soldiers ceased to use it. The workmen promised to spare the ‘written
- rock,’ but the next time I rode that way it had been shivered to
- atoms.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- Drawn & Lithographed by John Storey
- WRITTEN ROCK ON THE RIVER GELT.
-]
-
-[Sidenote: INSCRIPTIONS ON THE QUARRIES.]
-
-In Cumberland, there are several Roman inscriptions on the face of the
-ancient quarries. About a mile west of Birdoswald, and little more than
-a quarter of a mile south of the road, is Coome Crag, which, besides
-other markings, presents the following inscription—
-
- SE · · RVS
- AI · · · ·
- · · · VSTUS
-
-This perhaps may be read—SEVERUS ALEXANDER AUGUSTUS. The most remarkable
-of this class of Antiquities, however, is the ‘Written Rock of the
-Gelt,’ near Brampton. The lithograph on the opposite page is a very
-accurate representation of this curious relic of antiquity. As the scar
-is nearly perpendicular, and the river Gelt washes its base, it is not
-without some difficulty that the inquiring visitor can give it a
-satisfactory examination; it will, however, well reward his exertions,
-and the beauty of the surrounding scenery will give additional zest to
-the ramble. [Sidenote: INSCRIPTIONS ON THE QUARRIES.]The inscribed part
-of the rock is fully fifty feet above the water. The letters seem to
-have been made by connecting with a chisel or pick a [Illustration:
-‘Letters] number of holes drilled in the rock in the required order; at
-all events, the terminations of the strokes have been thus formed. Some
-doubt exists as to the precise reading of the inscription, but the
-general purport of it is this:—The vexillarii of the second legion under
-an optio called Agricola, were, in the consulship of Flavius Aper and
-Albinus Maximus (A.D. 207), employed to hew stone here for the
-Romans.[42] It is piteous, when surveying so interesting a relic of
-antiquity, and one which has outlived the accidents of upwards of
-sixteen centuries, to observe that it has been approached by men who
-cannot sympathize with the mighty dead, and who care not what violence
-they do to the feelings of those who can. To the defacement, as I
-believe, of some portion of the inscription, the names of F. GRAHAM, W.
-HARDCASTLE, T. THOMPSON, W. NELSON, have been carved upon the rock.
-Notoriety is easily earned, but it is not always of an enviable
-character.
-
-[Illustration: Form of Wall-Stone]
-
-[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF THE FACING-STONES.]
-
-The exterior masonry of the Wall consists, on both sides, of carefully
-squared free-stone blocks[43]; the interior, of rubble of any
-description firmly imbedded in mortar. The character of the
-facing-stones is peculiar, yet pretty uniform. They are eight or nine
-inches thick, and ten or eleven broad; their length, which is perhaps
-their characteristic feature, not unfrequently amounts to twenty inches.
-The part of the stone exposed to the weather is cut across ‘the bait,’
-so as to avoid its scaling off by the lines of stratification; the stone
-tapers towards the end which is set into the Wall, and has a form nearly
-resembling that of a wedge. The cut shews its usual form. Owing to the
-extent to which the stones are set into the Wall, the necessity of
-bonding tiles—so characteristic of Roman masonry in the south of
-England—is altogether superseded. There does not appear to have been a
-single tile used in any part of the Wall. Stones of the shape and size
-which have now been described were just those which could be most easily
-wrought in the quarry, most conveniently carried on the backs of the
-poor enslaved Britons to the Wall, and most easily fitted into their
-bed. The uniformity in their appearance is such as to enable us, after a
-little practice, at once to recognize them in the churches, castles,
-farm-buildings, and fences of the district through which the Wall runs.
-
-[Illustration: Junction of the west wall of Birdoswald with the Wall]
-
-[Sidenote: MASONRY OF THE STATIONS.]
-
-In Cumberland, the stones are rather larger than in the eastern portion
-of the line, a thickness of twelve inches not being uncommon, with a
-corresponding breadth. The blocks in the north face of the Wall, also,
-are not unfrequently larger than those in the south. The stones of which
-the walls of the stations are composed are smaller than those of the
-main Wall. Their average thickness is from five to seven inches, and
-their breadth from six to eight. The woodcut which is here introduced,
-depicts the junction of the west wall of the station of AMBOGLANNA with
-the Wall, and well displays the different character of the stones used
-in two erections. As already observed, the stations appear to have been
-built before the Wall, and as the necessity of the case required that
-they should be run up as quickly as possible, a smaller class of stone
-was allowed to pass muster here than was used in the Wall. The
-workmanship also is of inferior quality.
-
-[Sidenote: THE TOOLING OF THE STONES.]
-
-[Illustration: diamond broaching]
-
-The front of the stones, both of the Wall and stations, is roughly
-‘scabbled’ with the pick. In some parts of the line, this tooling takes
-a definite form; when this is the case, the marking called the diamond
-broaching is most common. Sometimes the [Illustration: waved lines]
-stone is scored with waved lines, or with small squares, or with nearly
-upright lines. The woodcuts illustrative of the masonry at Chester Holm,
-and of the Crypt at Hexham, to be introduced along with [Illustration:
-upright lines] the account of these places, will exemplify some of these
-kinds of broaching. It was not until I had become tolerably familiar
-with the Wall, that my attention was called to this peculiar kind of
-tooling. A visit to HABITANCUM and BREMENIUM, where the stones are
-nearly all broached in the diamond fashion, induced me to inspect the
-Wall more narrowly in this respect. I have since frequently detected it,
-especially in Cumberland. It is rare in the Northumbrian portion. Is
-this broaching peculiar to a particular legion, or to a certain period?
-The station of HABITANCUM is understood to have been rebuilt by
-Caracalla—can the other stations, and those parts of the Wall where this
-kind of marking appears, have also undergone repair at the same time, or
-is it the work of some particular legion? The same kind of broaching may
-be noticed in some of the stones at Chester, the DEVA ICENORUM of the
-Romans, which was for a long time the head quarters of the 20th legion.
-Though unable to resolve the doubt, I think that the prosecution of the
-inquiry may lead to some worthy result.
-
-[Sidenote: MASONS' MARKS.]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Cuttings resembling masons’ marks occasionally occur. Sometimes they
-consist of a single or double stroke; sometimes of a diagonal cross,
-sometimes of a rectangular. The other marks which are here represented
-are less frequently met with.[44]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Sidenote: ROMAN MORTAR.]
-
-The tenacity of the mortar which was used, forms an important element in
-the strength of the whole fabric. That which is in use now is generally
-spoiled, from a variety of circumstances. The prevailing practice is,
-first of all, to slack the lime by pouring a quantity of water upon it
-when lying in a heap; in most cases this does not sufficiently pulverize
-it: it is then mixed with any earth bearing the least resemblance to
-sand, and the two are worked together very imperfectly with a shovel.
-The mortar thus made often stands and hardens, so as to require to to be
-once and again mixed with water, and worked up before it is used. It
-thus becomes quite impoverished; and, after all, for the convenience of
-the mason, it is employed in so dry a state that the stone soon takes
-all the moisture from it, and it becomes little better than powder. The
-gigantic railway operations of recent times have driven men out of the
-beaten track, and compelled them afresh to discover the Roman method of
-preparing mortar. On the authority of engineers well acquainted with the
-Roman Wall, I am enabled to state, that the mortar of that structure is
-precisely similar to the grout and concrete[45] of the railway mason of
-the present day. Specimens of the ancient and modern grout are before
-me, and there cannot be a doubt as to the identity of their preparation.
-
-The following is the mode in which the railway engineer prepares his
-mortar. The lime, in the state in which it comes from the kiln, is first
-ground to powder, and is then mixed with sand and gravel, and chippings
-of stone. The purposes for which the mortar is required indicate the
-coarseness and quantity of the intermingling gravel. When wanted as
-concrete, to form, independently of other materials, the foundation of
-some heavy structure, stony fragments of larger size are mingled with
-the lime than when the mortar is to be used to cement chiselled stones,
-or even than when wanted to constitute with rubble the interior of a
-wall. The mixture of pounded lime and gravel, when made, is not mingled
-with water, until the moment of its application to the work for which it
-is required, but it is then intimately united with an abundant quantity
-of it. When used as concrete, the mass will, in three hours, have
-solidity sufficient to bear the weight of a man, and in about three days
-it will have acquired a rock-like firmness.
-
-Such, doubtless, is the way[46] in which the mortar of the Roman Wall
-was prepared, and it would have this very important advantage over that
-generally used at present, that, in a very short time, the work would
-acquire a massiveness and strength, sufficient to resist the attacks of
-an enemy. The mortar of the Saxon and Norman periods is of the same
-character.
-
-Occasionally, but by no means frequently, small pieces of charcoal are
-mixed with the mortar. These have evidently been derived from the wood
-used in burning the lime. Excepting in the buildings of the stations,
-pounded tile, so characteristic of the Roman mortar in the south of
-England, is by no means a common constituent of the mortar of the Wall.
-Limestone is abundant in most parts of the district through which the
-Wall passes. The Romans probably burnt it in ‘sow kilns.’ The limestone
-and fuel being arranged in alternate layers, the whole was carefully
-covered with turf and ignited. This simple method is still much resorted
-to when the lime is wanted for farm purposes.
-
- _PLATE III_
-
-[Illustration: Sections and Elevations of the Masonry of the Wall]
-
-[Sidenote: THE MODE OF BUILDING.]
-
-Supposing the stones to be now quarried and squared, the lime burnt and
-mixed with sand and gravel, the next point to be attended to is the
-method of using them. The foundation has been prepared by the removal of
-the natural soil to the width of about nine feet. In the hill district,
-a very scanty portion of earth covers the rocks; in the richer regions
-an excavation of from fifteen to eighteen inches has been made before
-the subsoil was reached. On the outer and inner margins of the ground
-thus bared, two rows of flags of from two to four inches in thickness,
-and from eighteen to twenty in breadth, were generally laid; no mortar
-was placed under them.[47] On these lay the first course of
-facing-stones, which were usually the largest stones used in the
-structure. In higher courses the facing-stones are uniformly of
-free-stone, on the ground course a ‘whin-stone’ is occasionally
-introduced. The flagstones of the foundation usually project from one to
-five inches beyond the first course of facing-stones, and these again
-usually stand out an inch or two beyond the second course, after which,
-the wall is taken straight up. In some parts of the line the flagstones
-do not appear in the foundation—the first course of facing-stones being
-laid directly upon the ground. In the neighbourhood of Sewingshields,
-where large tracts of the Wall have been recently removed, a careful
-observer informs me, that the entire foundation has for some distance
-been laid upon a bed of clay of three or four inches thick.
-
-[Sidenote: THE RUBBLE OF THE WALL.]
-
-One or two courses of facing-stones having been placed in their beds and
-carefully pointed, a mass of mortar in a very fluid state was poured
-into the interior of the wall, and stones of any kind or shape that were
-of a convenient size were ‘puddled’ in amongst it. Whin-stones, as being
-most abundant in the district, are generally used for the filling.
-Course after course was added, and one mass of concrete imposed upon
-another, until the Wall reached the required height. When the whole was
-finished it formed a solid, compact mass, without any holes or crevices
-in the interior, and in a short time became as firm as the unhewn rock.
-
-In some parts of the line the mortar has been ‘hand-laid.’ The rubble of
-the interior having been first disposed in its place, the mortar has
-been laid upon it with a trowel. In this case the mortar never
-penetrates the interstices of the mass, and does not make such solid
-masonry as the method generally pursued. When, however, this plan is
-adopted, the rubble stones are often laid upon their edges in a slanting
-position; and when those of the next layer, as occasionally occurs, are
-made to lean in the opposite direction, we have the kind of
-[Illustration: herring-bone work] masonry represented in the adjoining
-diagram, which is appropriately called herring-bone work. The nearest
-approach to this that I have seen upon the line of the Wall is at
-Steel-rig, and Hare-hill. In Hodgson’s Northumberland[48] a section of
-the Wall on Walltown crag is given, exhibiting herring-bone masonry. In
-this instance the stones are disposed transversely to the Wall, at
-Steel-rig and Hare-hill they are disposed longitudinally; the latter
-method is the easier of the two.[49]
-
-On wavy ground the courses of the Wall follow the undulations of the
-surface, but on steep inclines the stones are laid parallel to the
-horizon. The Wall, in this case, must have been built up from the bottom
-of the defile, where also, in order the better to resist the
-superincumbent mass, it not unfrequently has a greater breadth than
-usual. As shewing that different sections of the Wall have been erected
-under distinct superintendents, it may occasionally be observed that,
-whilst on one slope of a ‘gap’ the stones are laid parallel to the
-horizon, on the other, differing little perhaps in inclination, they are
-laid even with the ground.
-
-[Sidenote: DURABILITY OF THE STRUCTURE.]
-
-We must now take leave of this important part of our subject, the
-masonry of the Wall. Judging from those portions of it which remain, it
-may safely be asserted, that no structure can be conceived to possess
-greater strength and durability. The first time I happened to visit
-Bowness (in the year 1831), some portions of the Wall, seven feet high,
-were in the course of being removed; it was found necessary to resort to
-the force of gunpowder in order to effect its destruction. In the
-substantial nature of their works, the Romans have left the impress of
-their own mighty minds. They built not for the day. They did not
-conceive that their existence was bound up in the fate of a single
-generation, but that it was spread over the destinies of succeeding
-ages. Their works contrast strongly with the efforts of some modern
-builders. The editor of the pictorial volume, styled ‘Old England,’
-seems, in the following passage, to speak from personal observation.
-
- Passing by the fragments of which we have spoken, we are under the
- north wall [of Richborough]—a wondrous work calculated to impress us
- with a conviction that the people who built it were not the petty
- labourers of an hour, who were contented with temporary defences and
- frail resting places. The outer works upon the southern cliff of
- Dover, which were run up during the war with Napoleon, at prodigious
- expense, are crumbling and perishing, through the weakness of job and
- contract, which could not endure for half a century. And here stand
- the walls of Richborough, as they have stood for eighteen hundred
- years, from twenty to thirty feet high, eleven or twelve feet thick at
- the base, with their outer masonry in many parts as perfect as at the
- hour when their courses of tiles and stones were first laid in
- beautiful regularity.
-
-[Sidenote: ITS EVENTUAL DECAY.]
-
-If the meddling hand of man had been withheld from the Barrier of the
-Lower Isthmus, the Wall might have stood, even to the present hour, in
-almost its original integrity. It is necessary to say ‘almost,’ for
-nothing can be more correct than the observation of Hodgson—
-
- Though man has had the chief labour in effecting its destruction, its
- whole line and all its stations, castles, and towers, ever since it
- was deserted by the Romans, have been incessantly suffering
- prostration by the hand of nature. The feeble roots of grasses, ferns,
- and shrubs, have been assisted by the more destructive wedges and
- levers of forest trees in levelling it with the ground; and, in many
- places in the west of this county, for considerable distances
- together, the ruins that time has thrown from its brow, lie in a deep
- green mound at its feet; and thorns, briars, hazel, and mountain ash
- (entwined with relentless ivy), are still, in the parts that remain
- above ground, at the labour of demolition in which, for the last
- fourteen centuries, they have been unceasingly engaged.
-
-In this day, when the Arabic numerals assert an influence quite as
-potent as that which the lictors’ rods obtained in ancient Rome, the
-inquiries may not be destitute of interest—What amount of labour was
-involved in the construction of the Barrier, in what time could it be
-accomplished, and what, at the present value of labour and materials,
-would be the cost of its construction?
-
-[Sidenote: MONEY VALUE OF THE BARRIER.]
-
- The Wall is sixty-eight miles long; granting that it was only sixteen
- feet high, but had a continuous thickness of eight feet, we have
- 1,702,115 cubic yards of masonry, to say nothing of stations,
- mile-castles, and turrets.
-
- Twelve shillings per cubic yard is as near as may be the present value
- of masonry, such as that of which the Roman Wall consists—the cost of
- this part of the structure would therefore be 1,021,269_l._
-
- Taking into account that the labour was forced, each cubic yard of the
- Wall would, at the least, require, in quarrying the stone, its
- carriage to the Wall, its setting, and other operations, one entire
- day’s exertions of one man. In this way we have 1,702,115 days’ labour
- in the stone Wall.
-
- Taking the north fosse at the dimensions already given, its excavation
- would involve the removal of 5,585,072 cubic yards. A modern
- excavator, stimulated by pay proportioned to his work, enjoying food,
- and raiment, and shelter, such as the ancient Briton was a stranger
- to, and possessing the advantage of good tools, and good organization,
- can remove the enormous quantity of twenty cubic yards of earth per
- day. The labourer, driven to his ungrateful task by a Roman
- task-master, and compelled to support himself as best he might, and to
- labour with tools of the rudest construction, would not accomplish the
- half of this task; the removal of eight yards _per diem_ would
- probably be an average day’s work. The excavation of the north fosse
- would thus, under these circumstances, involve 698,134 days’ labour.
- At the present time, when twenty cubic yards may be removed per man in
- a day, and when a day’s wages may be set down at half-a-crown, the
- whole cost of the excavation of the fosse would be 34,906_l._
-
- In this estimate no account has been taken of the increased labour
- occasioned by cutting through the rocks that are sometimes met with.
- The entire absence of the ditch, however, in the hilly district,
- compensates for this omission.
-
- The fosse of the Vallum is rather less than that of the Wall. Making a
- deduction of one-third on this account, and supposing that the
- distance which the Vallum falls short of the Wall at each extremity,
- makes amends for the increased labour of cutting through the rocky
- ground, we have 3,723,382 cubic yards to be removed, involving 465,422
- days of forced labour. The whole could now be done for the sum of
- 23,271_l._ No account is taken of the labour expended in raising the
- earthen ramparts, or the cost of their construction, for the reason,
- that the removal of the earth from the fosse implied its being
- deposited somewhere; no place would be more convenient for this
- purpose than the mounds of the rampart.
-
-[Sidenote: TIME REQUIRED FOR ITS CONSTRUCTION.]
-
- Adding together these results, we find that the cost of the Wall and
- its north fosse would be 1,056,175_l._, and that the cost of the
- Vallum, added to this would form a total of 1,079,446_l._ The number
- of days’ labour involved in the Wall would be 2,400,249, and, adding
- to this, that of the Vallum, we have for the whole 2,865,671 days’
- labour.
-
- The largest number of men that we can conceive to be brought to bear
- at once upon the Wall, including such of the Roman troops as could be
- spared from military operations, is ten thousand. This body, at the
- rate already supposed, would, by continuous labour, execute the Wall
- and its ditch in 240 days, and, taking the Vallum also into account,
- in 286 days. In the exposed district over which the Wall runs, it is
- not probable that the weather would allow of the work being pursued
- during more than two hundred days in the year. If, in addition to
- this, we make deductions for the chances of war, two years may be
- stated as the shortest time in which the whole of the works could be
- executed.
-
-A recent writer, who, in a work denominated ‘A History of the Picts or
-Romano-British Wall,’ adopts the notion of Gildas, that the stone wall
-was built, not by Hadrian or Severus, but by the trembling Britons on
-their abandonment by the Romans, supports his opinion by denominating
-the work an un-Roman-like defence, and argues that men who were
-unaccustomed to fear, would not seek the assistance of a wall and a
-ditch. However regardless of life the Romans may, in the abstract, have
-been, they knew how to economize their resources. In the battle of the
-Grampians, Agricola withheld his legionary soldiers, and made use only
-of his auxiliary troops. He could better afford to expend the one than
-the other. As well might a warrior despise the protection of a helmet or
-a shield, as refuse the defence of a stone wall.
-
-[Sidenote: WALLS NOT UNWORTHY OF ROME.]
-
-The best refutation, however, of this theory, is the fact, that in other
-places the Romans, about the same period, raised similar barriers. At
-two of these we shall glance, before beginning a detailed inspection of
-the Barrier of the Lower Isthmus. The comparison will probably afford
-valuable instruction.
-
-[Sidenote: THE GERMAN BARRIER.]
-
-The DEVIL’S WALL, in Germany, bears many marks of resemblance to the
-English Wall. It seems[50] to consist of the _Pfahl_, a mound of stakes,
-or vallum, ascribed to Hadrian, and a stone wall which is said to have
-been executed by some of his successors. The works extended westwards
-from Regensburg [Ratisbon] on the Danube, towards the sources of that
-river, a distance of nearly two hundred miles. They formed the boundary
-of the Roman empire in those parts where the Danube was not broad and
-deep enough to be of itself a sufficient protection. A deep trench ran
-along the Wall on its northern side, and along its southern face roads
-and camps were formed. At regular intervals of one mile, towers of
-observation were placed of the same size, though, being circular, not of
-the same form as the mile-castles on the English Wall. It is not
-possible, from the present remains, to determine with certainty the
-height or breadth of the Wall. ‘I found it in many places,’ says
-Professor Buchner, ‘from four to six, in others from ten to twelve, feet
-broad. We may therefore perhaps conclude, that its medium breadth was
-from six to seven feet, and that its height, as corresponding to this
-breadth, may have been from eighteen to twenty-four feet.’ The works
-have the same tendency to advance in a straight line as those of our own
-Barrier. ‘No mountain is so high, no abyss so steep, no wood so thick,
-no morass so profound, through which it does not penetrate.’ ‘The whole
-line of the fortification has been laid down and executed according to a
-well-digested plan.’
-
-[Sidenote: THE ANTONINE WALL.]
-
-GRAHAM’S DIKE, so denominated probably from the Celtic words _grym_,
-strength, and _diog_, a ditch, is a barrier which fortified the Upper
-Isthmus of Britain. It extended from Borrowstoness, on the Firth of
-Forth, to West Kilpatrick, on the river Clyde, a distance of about
-twenty-seven English miles. It was constructed by Lollius Urbicus in the
-reign of Antoninus Pius, the adopted son of Hadrian. The following
-succinct account of this important design is taken from the ‘Caledonia
-Romana,’ a work of great ability, by the late lamented Mr. Robert
-Stuart, of Glasgow:—
-
- This great military work consisted, in the first place, of an immense
- fosse or ditch—averaging about forty feet in width, by some twenty in
- depth—which extended over hill and plain, in one unbroken line, from
- sea to sea. Behind this ditch, on its southern side, and within a few
- feet of its edge, was raised a rampart of intermingled stone and
- earth, strengthened by sods of turf, which measured, it is supposed,
- about twenty feet in height, and twenty-four in thickness at the base.
- This rampart, or _agger_, was surmounted by a parapet, behind which
- ran a level platform, for the accommodation of its defenders. To the
- southward of the whole was situated the Military Way—a regular
- causewayed road, about twenty-feet wide—which kept by the course of
- the Wall at irregular distances, approaching, in some instances, to
- within a few yards, and in others receding to a considerable extent.
- Along the entire line there were established, it is believed, nineteen
- principal stations or forts. The mean distance between each may be
- stated at rather more than two English miles. Along these intervals
- were placed many smaller _castella_, or watch-towers. While the
- continuous rampart seems to have been little more than a well-formed
- earthen mound, it is probable that many, if not all, of the stations,
- were either rivetted with stone or entirely built of that material. In
- some places, it would even appear that the Vallum itself had been
- raised upon a stone foundation—probably in situations where the ground
- was low and marshy, and where it was found necessary to form drains
- beneath the works, to prevent the accumulation of water on their
- anterior side.
-
-[Sidenote: MUTUAL SUPPORT OF THE BARRIERS.]
-
-The Barrier of the Upper Isthmus never consisted of more than a single
-line of fortification. This circumstance may seem to militate against
-the view that we have taken of the double line of the Southern Barrier.
-If in the one case the conquered tribes to the south were disregarded,
-why should they not be so in the other also? We shall not, however,
-greatly err if we regard the Antonine Wall as but an advanced work of
-Hadrian’s entrenchment. On this view of the matter, the difficulty is at
-once removed, for the Lower Barrier would be a sufficient security
-against danger in the rear. Certain it is, that the southern line was
-not abandoned when the other was constructed. Several altars have been
-found on the Lower Barrier inscribed with the name Antoninus Pius.[51] A
-slab bearing the names of the consuls Sex. Sulpicius Tertullus, and C.
-Tineius Sacerdos, elicits the following remarks from judge Cay[52]:—
-
- These were consuls in A.D. 158; consequently, we have undeniable
- authority to assert, that Antoninus Pius repaired Hadrian’s Vallum
- (or, at least, the stations _per lineam Valli_), as well as built one
- between the Scottish Firths. This stone is certainly most valuable, as
- it clearly proves, that though Antoninus extended the boundary so far
- north, he could not, or durst not, trust the Mæatæ, but thought
- himself obliged to keep up the southern pretenturæ, lest they should,
- on any disturbance, join the Caledonians.
-
-Such prudence is characteristic of good generalship. Napoleon never made
-an important move without first resolving what to do in case of failure.
-Assuredly Hadrian did not act in a manner unbecoming a Roman, when, at
-the same time that he shewed a stony front to the Caledonians, he placed
-an earthen rampart between himself and the doubtful fidelity of his
-southern subjects.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BARRIERS IN RELATION TO THE RIVERS.]
-
-The position of the Barriers of the Lower and of the Upper Isthmus, and
-of the Devil’s Wall, in relation to the rivers in their vicinity,
-requires some remark. The Tyne in the eastern, and the Irthing and the
-Eden in the western part of the island, are uniformly to the south of
-the English Wall. A similar remark applies to the Devil’s Wall, in
-Germany, which is drawn along the northern shore of the Danube, the side
-exposed to the enemy. The Clyde, and its feeders, are to the south of
-the Antonine Wall. Why did the Romans not avail themselves of the
-natural trenches of these river-basins? The valley of the Tyne is
-peculiarly broad and deep. A chain of camps on its southern bank, where
-the mediæval castles afterwards stood, would alone, we might suppose,
-have bid defiance to the passage of any foe.
-
-A similarity of practice in these cases favours the belief that
-important objects were to be accomplished by it. What are they?—
-
-By erecting a chain of posts on the high grounds to the north of the
-rivers, a better observation of the movements of the enemy was obtained
-than would otherwise have been practicable. In the days of Roman
-occupation, large tracts of country, the banks of rivers especially,
-would be covered with forests. The conquerors, unless they had secured
-the enemy’s side of the river-basins, would have been perpetually
-subject to unexpected attacks. They could not be so easily taken by
-surprise on the high grounds of the northern slopes.
-
-[Sidenote: IMPORTANCE OF RIVER BASINS.]
-
-Probably the value of the land on the margin of the rivers, was an
-additional motive for the course pursued. The alluvial soil by a river’s
-side is usually the most fertile portion of a country. The banks of the
-Tyne and the Eden are peculiarly productive. Without a wall the enemy
-would have had undisputed possession of the slopes which enjoyed the
-finest aspect—that to the south—while those on the other side would have
-been subject to frequent depredation. This consideration is of the more
-importance, as the lands of the district were given to the soldiers who
-garrisoned the frontier, as a means of securing their fidelity.
-
-[Sidenote: PRUDENCE OF THE ROMANS.]
-
-So far from the importance of the natural boundary, the river, being
-overlooked by the Romans, I am disposed to regard the works on its
-northern bank as a proof of the value which they set upon it. The
-natural and the artificial barriers were probably regarded by them as
-but separate members of one complete fortification. In case of a rush of
-invasion from the North, the Wall would arrest the attack and the river
-entirely repel it. The stone and earth works would impede the progress
-of a foe, however formidable, and give time for the formation of an army
-on the southern bank of the stream. It was, moreover, ‘political in the
-Romans,’ as Stukely remarks,[53] 'to leave on the north side of the Wall
-that huge tract of waterless and dismal moor, a great barren solitude,
-where in some places you may walk sixty miles endwise, without meeting
-with a house or tree; to ride is impracticable. Thus, as much as in them
-lay, without the horror of barbarity, did they remove the barbarians
-from their territories; whilst within the Wall, either naturally or by
-their industry, all things smiled like the garden of Eden.'
-
-The vast hosts which the Caledonians were able to muster rendered all
-these precautions necessary; and it was, moreover, becoming in the
-Romans—a generation of warriors the mightiest the world has ever seen—to
-plant the foot firmly on any land they thought fit to occupy. Assuredly
-they did so in the Lower Isthmus of Britain.
-
-[Illustration: Written Rock, at Fallow-field.]
-
------
-
-Footnote 14:
-
- Hodgson states the mean of nineteen measurements to be one hundred and
- twenty six yards.—_Northumberland_, II. iii. 310. This high number is
- obtained by its including the mountain districts, where the works are
- widely separated.
-
-Footnote 15:
-
- Harl. MSS. 374,—impr. Hodg. North’d. II. iii. 273.
-
-Footnote 16:
-
- Harl. MSS. 373,—impr. Richardson’s Reprints and Imprints, divis.
- Miscell.
-
-Footnote 17:
-
- It will be observed here that the erection of this structure has not
- been _always_ ascribed to Severus.
-
-Footnote 18:
-
- Greater extremes are met with, but they are rare. Hodgson in a note p.
- 276 says, The foundations in the turnpike-road, just west of Portgate
- are scarcely seven feet broad; but opposite a plantation a little
- further west, ten feet and a half. Hutton found the Wall at Brunton
- only five feet and a half thick.
-
-Footnote 19:
-
- This is particularly the case about Old Wall in Cumberland.
-
-Footnote 20:
-
- Hutton’s Roman Wall, 139.
-
-Footnote 21:
-
- Hodg. North’d. II. iii. 276.
-
-Footnote 22:
-
- Horsley, in the profiles of the barrier which he gives, represents the
- marginal rampart or _agger_ as being much larger than the south one.
- The present aspect of the works does not warrant such a delineation.
-
-Footnote 23:
-
- When travelling along the road west of Birdoswald, I have seen a
- ploughman and his team entirely disappear, on descending into the
- fosse of the Vallum.
-
-Footnote 24:
-
- An inspection of Horsley’s own sections will at once show
- this.—_Britan. Romana_, 158.
-
-Footnote 25:
-
- In corroboration of this statement, it may be mentioned that an
- intelligent and substantial farmer offered to take, on a twenty-one
- years’ lease, the Corchester field, in which the station of
- CORSTOPITUM stood, at the yearly rate of 6_l._ per acre. It contains
- twelve acres.
-
-Footnote 26:
-
- The Notitia has _Lergorum_, but it will be afterwards shewn that this
- is probably an error for _Lingonum_.
-
-Footnote 27:
-
- The Notitia has _Astorum_ in this and the subsequent instances, but
- all the inscriptions hitherto found have _Asturum_.
-
-Footnote 28:
-
- Brit. Rom. 102.
-
-Footnote 29:
-
- Ibid. 473.
-
-Footnote 30:
-
- This slab is in the possession of his Grace the Duke of
- Northumberland, and is preserved, along with several other interesting
- reliques of the Wall, in that noble baronial residence, so worthy of
- the chiefs of Percy, Alnwick Castle.
-
-Footnote 31:
-
- Now in the Dean and Chapter Library at Durham.
-
-Footnote 32:
-
- According both to Hyginus and Vegetius, the first cohort of a legion,
- in the times of the lower empire, was called _milliaria_, from its
- being stronger than any cohort of the legion, and from its generally
- consisting of about a thousand men.
-
- _Arch. Æl._ ii., 83.
-
-Footnote 33:
-
- A correspondent of the author writes 'Even in my own day it was the
- custom of the superstitious, on the line of the Wall, especially
- between Birdoswald and Cambeck Fort to pound the stones, bearing
- inscriptions, into sand for their kitchens, or bury them in the
- foundations of houses or walls, for the simple reason that they
- considered them unlucky—calling them 'witch stones’. When one was
- found, the _old wives_ fearing that the butter might not form in the
- churn, took good care that it should never again make its appearance.
- Thus down went many a splendid Roman altar, a sacrifice to ignorance
- and superstition'!
-
-Footnote 34:
-
- The plough has now passed over the station of Watch Cross. The
- enquiries which I have made on the spot, and in the neighbourhood,
- are, on the whole, confirmatory of Hodgson’s view.
-
-Footnote 35:
-
- Mounsey’s Account of the occupation of Carlisle in 1745.
-
-Footnote 36:
-
- Ford’s Hand-book of Spain, 1st edition, p. 306.
-
-Footnote 37:
-
- On putting the inquiry pointedly to a person who had ploughed up some
- portions of the Vallum in the neighbourhood of Wallend, Cumberland,
- and who was also acquainted with the mode in which the Maiden-way (a
- Roman road) was formed, I was told that there were no traces of
- pavement in the Vallum.
-
-Footnote 38:
-
- We must not, however, pronounce a road to be impracticable, because
- now it would be thought so. A Northumberland farmer, speaking to me
- upon this subject, said he had seen roads which, in his neighbourhood,
- were regularly traversed only a century ago, on which no one would
- venture now-a-days; ‘it was like coming down a crag-side.’ He had
- driven through mosses in which the horses were commonly enveloped, but
- had no misgivings so long as he could see the heads of the animals.
-
-Footnote 39:
-
- Hodgson, however, distinctly proves, that the _cornage_, or
- castle-guard rent of the North of England—originally a payment in lieu
- of cattle, and called in English, _horngeld_ and _neatgeld_,
- cattle-tax, or ox-lay—has nothing whatever to do with sounding the
- war-alarm by _horns_.
-
-Footnote 40:
-
- It must, however, be borne in mind, that even the uneducated labourer,
- in a highly civilized community, has unconsciously received a
- considerable amount of mental training, which places him in a
- situation much superior to that of the mere savage.
-
-Footnote 41:
-
- The remainder of this valuable communication is, in order to avoid
- repetition, embodied in the subsequent account of the Masonry of the
- Wall.
-
-Footnote 42:
-
- Hodgson II. ii. 298.
-
-Footnote 43:
-
- It would be described by a modern builder as a rough blocking course.
-
-Footnote 44:
-
- The cuts representing these markings are transferred from my note
- book, without reference to scale.
-
-Footnote 45:
-
- Concrete contains less lime, and is mixed with a smaller proportion of
- water than grout. It is chiefly used in large masses, to form an
- artificial foundation for a building.
-
-Footnote 46:
-
- The almost entire absence of those little white lumps of lime, not
- properly mixed with sand, which are found in the imperfectly prepared
- mortar of modern times, shews that the lime must in some way have been
- crushed by rollers or beaters.
-
-Footnote 47:
-
- Mr. Bell, of Irthington, tells me that in some places the foundation
- flags of the north side point upwards, at an angle of about twenty
- degrees, caused apparently by the settling of the ponderous mass. In
- this circumstance, we have an interesting confirmation of the
- supposition that the Wall was surmounted with a parapet on its north
- side. The foundation would have settled equally if both sides had been
- burdened alike.
-
-Footnote 48:
-
- Part II. v. iii. p. 294.
-
-Footnote 49:
-
- In some parts of the line, the joints of the Wall are at present
- filled with earthy matter instead of mortar, and it is the opinion of
- some authorities, and amongst them, the eminent architect and
- intelligent antiquary, Mr. Dobson, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, that in
- these places, clay has been originally substituted for mortar. Very
- loath to suppose that the original builders of the Wall would leave
- any portion of it in so unsatisfactory a state, I have been in the
- habit of accounting for the apparent absence of mortar in the
- following way:—The upper part of the structure having been overthrown
- by a ruthless enemy, and the lower parts covered with the fallen
- rubbish, the whole heap would speedily become coated with vegetation.
- Roman mortar, with all its tenacity, would not be able to resist the
- powers of vitality; and the constant demands of the ferns and the
- foxgloves would, in the course of time, abstract the whole of the
- lime. The roots of the plants, by whose agency the work of abstraction
- had proceeded, yielding in due time to the process of decay, would
- themselves, in the form of vegetable earth, supply the place of the
- lime which they had withdrawn.
-
-Footnote 50:
-
- The only source of information which I have upon the subject of this
- wall, is a translation of an extract from a pamphlet by Professor
- Buchner, of Regensburg, in the first volume of the ‘Archæologia
- Æliana.’ The precise relation which the _Pfahl_ bears to the stone
- Wall does not very clearly appear from this paper; to all appearance,
- however, the analogy between the German and English barriers is very
- close.
-
-Footnote 51:
-
- Hodg. North’d. II. iii. 276.
-
-Footnote 52:
-
- Ibid. 284.
-
-Footnote 53:
-
- Iter Boreale, 67.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
- ~The Roman Barrier of the
- Lower Isthmus.~
-
- PART III.
- LOCAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORKS.
-
-Little did the Romans dream, when they fixed the eastern termination of
-their Wall at SEGEDUNUM, of the world-wide celebrity which its
-subsequent cognomen—Wallsend—would attain. Even Horsley, writing in
-1731, and in what he lovingly terms 'my own county,'[54] did not foresee
-the extensive mining operations which shortly after his day were to take
-place in its immediate vicinity. In order to mark the site of the
-station, he fixes upon Cousin’s House, which is at some distance from
-the spot, whereas, the principal shaft of the celebrated mine is close
-beside its western rampart.
-
-
-SEGEDUNUM, Wallsend, is admirably selected as the site of a Roman
-station, and as the eastern terminus of the Wall. Without being so
-much[Sidenote: SEGEDUNUM.] elevated as to give it a painful exposure to
-the blasts of the north and of the east, it commands a view, in every
-direction, of the adjacent country. The ground, in front of it, slopes
-rapidly down to the river’s brink, and has a full exposure to the
-mid-day sun. The beauty of its situation is considerable now; what must
-it have been when aged oaks crowned the contiguous heights, and the Tyne
-rolled by in the brilliancy and exuberance of its youth!
-
-[Sidenote: WALLSEND.]
-
-Eastward of Wallsend, the river acquires a sufficient magnitude to make
-it a barrier quite formidable enough to prevent the ready passage of a
-foe, and to render the erection of a wall unnecessary. Frequently,
-however, would it be needful for the watchful eye of the Roman prefect
-at SEGEDUNUM to traverse the expanse which lay between him and the sea.
-This he could easily do. The station stands upon a bend of the river,
-formed by two of the longest ‘reaches’ which it makes in the whole of
-its course. The Long-reach extends downwards as far as the high end of
-South Shields, and the Bill-reach stretches nearly two miles up the
-water. In both directions, therefore, any operations conducted on the
-river would be easily discerned from the station.
-
-[Sidenote: SEGEDUNUM.]
-
-Although it was not thought requisite to extend the Wall further along
-the northern bank of the Tyne than Wallsend, special precautions were
-taken to secure the mouth of the river from hostile occupation. A camp
-at Tynemouth, and another at North Shields, were garrisoned by troops
-from the head quarters at SEGEDUNUM; these frowned over the northern
-shore of the estuary. A subsidiary station at Tyne Lawe, near South
-Shields, and another at Jarrow, guarded its southern bank, whilst one at
-Wardley, opposite Wallsend, would effectually support, on that side of
-the river, the operations of the garrison in the principal encampment.
-All of these will be examined afterwards.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Jupiter-Coh. IV. Lingonum]
-
-The evidence by which Wallsend is identified with the _Segedunum_ of the
-Notitia is not so direct as could be desired. First in the list of
-officers ‘along the line of the Wall,’ the Notitia places the Tribune of
-the fourth cohort of the Lergi at SEGEDUNUM. Now, no inscription has
-been found in Britain mentioning the Lergi, but inscriptions have been
-found which mention the second and fourth cohorts of the Lingones; on
-the other hand, the Lingones never occur in the Notitia, but the cohorts
-of the Lergi which are there recorded, are the second and the fourth.
-This being the case, and the difference in the form of the Latin words
-_Lergorum_ and _Lingonum_ being very slight, the probability is, as Mr.
-Thomas Hodgson, in an able paper in the Archæologia Æliana, conjectures,
-that some early transcriber of the Notitia has written the one in
-mistake for the other. Within the precincts of Tynemouth Castle, in the
-year 1783, an altar was found, which formed part of the foundation of an
-ancient church. It is now in the possession of the Society of
-Antiquaries of London. The adjoining wood-cut accurately delineates it.
-The inscription may be read as follows:
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- AEL[IVS] RVFVS
- PRAEF[ECTVS] COH[ORTIS]
- IIII LINGO
- NVM.
-
- To Jupiter the best and greatest,
- Ælius Rufus,
- The Prefect of Cohort the
- Fourth of the Lingo-
- nes.
-
-On the supposition, which is a natural one, that Tynemouth was a station
-subsidiary to Wallsend, this altar gives satisfactory proof that the
-first of the stations at the eastern extremity of the Wall is the
-SEGEDUNUM of the Notitia. On some occasion, when the prefect who
-commanded the estuary of the Tyne, was on a visit to this out-post, he
-erected to Jupiter, whom he ignorantly worshipped, the altar which still
-remains.
-
-[Sidenote: ORIGIN OF THE NOTITIA NAMES.]
-
-The etymology of the names of the stations is an interesting, but
-intricate subject. The new occupants of a country usually adopt the
-appellations bestowed by their predecessors upon its more prominent
-features. Thus, though in England the ancient Briton, Roman, Saxon,
-Norman, and modern English, have successively prevailed, many of our
-most familiar rivers, as the Thames, the Isis, and the Avon, have borne,
-as Whitaker shows, through each successive change, their present names.
-The appellations of cities are much more variable, but some even of
-these are indelible. Strange as a painted Briton of the first century
-would feel himself in the streets of modern London, its _name_ would
-fall on his ear as an accustomed sound.
-
-The Romans were a minority in Britain; and, in their intercourse with
-the natives, would be compelled to adopt the nomenclature of the people.
-We may, therefore, expect to find that the names of the stations are
-essentially British, though somewhat altered by the imperfect
-pronunciation of the strangers, and by a ceaseless effort to recast the
-words in the mould of their own tongue. The change most frequently
-introduced consists in the addition of Latin terminations. The names
-given by the aborigines of a country are usually descriptive of the
-object to which they are attached: they are epithets changed into proper
-names. Accordingly, we find that the names of the stations, so far as
-they have been deciphered by the assistance of those modern
-representatives of the ancient British tongue—the Gaelic and native
-Irish—are descriptive of the locality.
-
-[Sidenote: ETYMOLOGY OF SEGEDUNUM.]
-
-SEGEDUNUM is an unfortunate example to begin with. There was a Segedunum
-in Aquitania, the modern Rodez—a Segodunum in Northern Germany, the
-modern Siegen. The camp at Wallsend may have received its name from some
-resemblence to one of these. Still the question remains, What was the
-common origin of the term? Wallis thinks it is derived from the Latin
-_seges_, corn, and the Celtic _dunum_, a hill; but, excepting in extreme
-cases, an etymology dependent upon two languages can scarcely be
-admitted. A more consistent derivation is found in the Celtic _sech_,
-(the root of the French _sec_) dry, and _dun_, a hill. The final
-syllable is a Latin affix. The elevation of the spot, and its rapid
-slope to the river, would render it comparatively free from
-moisture.[55]
-
-[Sidenote: VILLAGE OF WALLSEND.]
-
-Whatever doubt may hang over the Roman name of this station, none
-attaches to the modern—Wallsend
-
- ... Ab illo
- Dicitur, æternumque tenet per sæcula nomen.
-
-The number of places along the course of the Wall which have derived
-their names from this great work, is very striking, and proves the
-importance that has been attached to it. Without examining a map, and
-simply drawing upon the resources of my own memory and note-book, the
-following examples occur: In Northumberland, we have Wallsend, Walker,
-Wall-knoll in Newcastle, Benwell, Wallbottle, Heddon-on-the-Wall,
-Welton, Wall-houses, Wall, Walwick, Shields-on-the-Wall, Wall-mill,
-Walltown, Thirlwall, and Wall-end; in Cumberland, we have Walton,
-Wallbours, Old-Wall, High Wallhead, Middle Wallhead, Low Wallhead,
-Wallby, and Wallfoot.
-
-The present village of Wallsend is about half a mile distant from the
-station, a little to the north of the turnpike road. It is, however, of
-modern erection. Brand says that ‘an old woman, still living, remembers
-when the site of the present Wallsend was an empty field.’ The
-traditional account of its erection is, that a plague having desolated
-the original town, which stood upon the site of the camp, and was built
-out of its ruins, the terrified inhabitants forsook the spot, and sought
-shelter in the new locality.
-
- _PLATE IV._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- _SECTION, after Warburton, of the Mountains at Bradley,
- shewing the relation, in the hill-district, between the Wall
- and the Vallum._
- _REID. LITHO. NEWCASTLE._
-]
-
-[Sidenote: WALLSEND.]
-
-A person unaccustomed to examine the remains of Roman forts, will
-probably be disappointed to find the ramparts of Wallsend so feebly
-marked; but one who brings to the task a practised eye, will give a good
-account of the land, and express his surprise that so much of the camp
-is left. The station, it must be remembered, is situated on the edge of
-a river the scene of an immense commerce, in the vicinity of a large
-town, and in the centre of a great mining district.
-
-[Sidenote: SEGEDUNUM.]
-
-The station of SEGEDUNUM has occupied an area of three acres and a half.
-The Wall, coming from the west, has struck the north cheek of its
-western gateway, and there terminated. The walls of the station would be
-a sufficient protection to the garrison against attack from the north or
-other quarters, but to prevent the enemy getting within the barrier, by
-passing between the station and the river, the eastern wall of the
-station has been brought down to the river, and continued into it to
-low-water mark.[56]
-
-[Illustration:
-
- Drawn & Lithographed by John Storey
- WALLSEND, LOOKING EAST.
-]
-
-[Sidenote: WALLSEND.]
-
-In tracing the outline of the station it will be well to begin at
-Carville-hall, the 'Cousin’s-house,'[57] of Horsley. Between it and the
-Gosforth ‘waggon-way,’ the north fosse of the Wall is very distinct, a
-gravelled path, for some distance, occupies the site of the Wall.[58]
-Behind the Methodist-chapel the ditch may still be traced, but after
-that it disappears. The row of houses between the chapel and the station
-is manifestly very close upon the line of the Wall. The old
-engine-house, which Brand tells us was six yards north of the Wall,
-still remains. The whole of the ramparts of the northern section of the
-station are gone; the walls of the southern portion of it may, however,
-be traced rising in the form of a grassy mound above the general level
-of the soil. The continuation of the eastern wall of the station down
-the bank to the river’s edge, may also be recognised, not only by the
-gentle mound which it forms, but by the fragments of Roman mortar, Roman
-tile, and coarse-grained sandstone, not proper to the district, which
-may be picked up on it. This river-wall joins the Tyne at the spot where
-a jetty has recently been formed. Numerous swellings in the ground to
-the south, and to the east of the station, indicate the ruins of
-suburban buildings. These seem to have been invariable concomitants of
-stationary camps. Officers wishing to have more space than the fort
-allowed, the families of the soldiers, the camp followers, and others,
-who sought the protection of a fortified post, would occupy such
-dwellings. The sunny exposure of the streets on the south of the camp,
-would render them peculiarly acceptable to the Lingones who came from
-that part of Gaul where the Meuse and Marne have their source.[59] The
-fosse which protected the eastern rampart, is still distinctly visible,
-and generally contains a little water. The accompanying lithographic
-view is given chiefly with the intention of showing the extensive
-command which the station had of the river below it; the south-east
-angle of the rampart may be traced upon it, as well as the fosse beyond.
-The altar, represented in the foreground, was found in the vicinity of
-the station a few years ago, and is still preserved upon the spot, it is
-without an inscription, but has a hole drilled through its centre, which
-it had when found. An extensive natural valley protected the western
-side of the camp, which some years ago was partially filled up, in order
-to form the waggon-way. The house occupied by the late Mr. John Buddle,
-the eminent colliery viewer, is just within the western wall of the
-station, and that, formerly occupied by Mr. John Reay, is just within
-the eastern rampart. The waggon-way leading from the Wallsend pit seems
-to enter the station by its western portal, and to leave it by its
-eastern, and thus exactly traverses the _via principalis_ of the camp.
-The only trace of the northern division of the station that remains,
-consists [Sidenote: SEGEDUNUM.]of the road which has apparently led from
-SEGEDUNUM to the out-posts at Blake-chesters and Tyne-mouth. This
-causeway extends from the station to the north of the Shields railway;
-it is formed of a mass of rubble, about two feet deep, and is eleven
-yards wide. It cannot be ploughed, and nothing that requires any depth
-of earth will grow upon it.
-
-Numerous proofs of Roman occupation have been discovered at various
-times in the station and its vicinity. Brand says, ‘I found a fibula,
-some Roman tegulæ, and coins, a ring, &c. Immense quantities of bones
-and teeth of animals are continually turning up. Stones with
-inscriptions were found, but the incurious masons built them up again in
-the new works of the colliery.’ Dr. Lingard was told, that in digging a
-cellar under the dining room of Mr. Buddle’s house, a deep well was
-found. I have been informed by Mr. John Reay, that another was
-discovered outside the station, at the spot shown on the plan of the
-station, Plate IV. A structure, which was conceived to be a bath, was
-struck upon about the same time, near the river’s brink; it was
-immediately removed, but its site is marked on the plan. Many coins have
-been found, but most of them in a very corroded state. A beautiful piece
-of Samian ware was got in sinking the shaft of the colliery, which is
-now in possession of the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne;
-it is figured in a subsequent Plate.
-
-[Sidenote: WALLSEND TO NEWCASTLE.]
-
-Leaving Wallsend, and proceeding westward, the Wall is chiefly to be
-traced by the presence of its north fosse. This is very distinctly
-marked nearly all the way to Byker. In front of Stote’s-houses, the
-Beehouses of Horsley, it forms a pond, which is used for farm purposes.
-Some traces of the foundation of the Wall may be seen, but they are
-faint. Thirty years ago the Wall was standing, for a considerable
-distance, three and four feet high, covered with brushwood of hazel,
-oak, and alder. The tendency of the half-ruined Wall to give lodgement
-to the roots of these plants, is very remarkable; wherever the Wall is
-undisturbed they are found, and in regions where the hazel does not
-occur elsewhere, as in the neighbourhood of Bowness, it is to be met
-with abundantly upon the Wall.
-
-A mound, a little more elevated than the neighbouring ground, near to
-Stote’s-houses, points out the site of the first mile-castle west of
-Wallsend. The tenant of the farm told me that he had got a great
-quantity of stones from it. In Horsley’s time, there were ‘two distinct
-tumuli remaining near the Bee-houses’; what I take to be the rudiments
-of them may yet be traced; one of them is just behind the stack-yard of
-the farm, the other, the least marked of the two, a little to the west
-of it.
-
-The road that is seen stretching in a straight line up the hill to Byker
-indicates the direction of the Wall, and though the first, it is by no
-means the most remarkable instance that we shall meet with, of the
-unflinching and straightforward tendencies of this remarkable structure.
-The Wall stood on the south side of the present road. The facing-stones
-having already been removed, and it being desirable to have the rocky
-remnant entirely cleared away, the ground was let to parties without
-rent for a short term of years, on condition of their clearing it, and
-bringing it into cultivation. It is on this account that the site of the
-Wall and fosse, even yet, is portioned out in long narrow slips, which
-are, for the most part, used as potato gardens.
-
-From the top of Byker-hill, an interesting view is obtained of the Tyne
-and the numerous hives of busy men which bestud its banks. This would be
-an important post for the Roman soldier, who could easily see from it
-the stations on either hand—SEGEDUNUM and PONS ÆLII—and all that was
-going on between them.
-
-Between Byker and Newcastle, all traces of the Wall are now nearly
-destroyed. In 1725, it was, however, standing in a condition of imposing
-grandeur, as appears from Stukeley’s ‘Prospect’ of it in the Iter
-Boreale. He was induced to make this drawing because ‘the country being
-entirely undermined’ by colliery excavations, it might ‘some time or
-other sink, and so disorder the track of this stately work.’ He dreaded
-an imaginary evil, and overlooked a real one.
-
-The north fosse was, till recently, very distinct within the wall of
-Heaton-park; it is now filled up; many of the stones in the park-wall,
-are to all appearance, Roman. Before descending the hill, a portion of
-it, boldly developed, may yet be seen at the end of a small row of
-houses called Howard-street.
-
-[Sidenote: COURSE THROUGH NEWCASTLE.]
-
-At the head of the bank overlooking the Ouse-burn stood a mile-castle,
-as was usual in such situations, to guard the pass. Two stones which, I
-am persuaded, formed part of the entrance gateway of this mile-tower,
-now stand upon the stairs leading to the grand entrance of the keep of
-the Castle of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. They measure two feet by one, and are
-of the form usually employed in the portals of mile castles. One of them
-bears a rude, and almost unintelligible, inscription. These stones were
-found built up in a structure on the west bank of the Ouseburn, were
-thence taken to Busy Cottage, afterwards removed to Heaton, and finally
-presented to the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
-The Wall crossed the Ouse-burn very near the ancient bridge which is
-about a hundred and fifty yards south of the railway viaduct. In
-preparing the foundations of Mr. Beckinton’s steam-mill about the year
-1800, the workmen came upon the Wall, and, with great good taste, built
-into the opposite quay three of the largest stones they met with, in
-order to mark its site; they may yet be seen at low water, and are
-evidently mile-castle stones.
-
-[Sidenote: COURSE THROUGH NEWCASTLE.]
-
-It is not possible to trace the Wall with minute accuracy through
-Newcastle, a town which has been the seat of a large and active
-population ever since the days of Roman occupation. In endeavouring to
-follow its route, I shall mainly depend upon the investigations of Mr.
-George Bouchier Richardson, who has for several years past made the
-antiquities of ‘the Metropolis of the North’ his especial study, and
-whose paper upon this subject, recently read before the Society of
-Antiquaries of this town, will doubtless speedily appear in the
-Archæologia Æliana.
-
-[Sidenote: NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.]
-
-Rising from the western bank of the Ouse-burn, it traversed the north
-side of Stepney-bank, passed through the gardens at the Red Barns, along
-the site of the present Melbourne-street, and, proceeding behind the
-Keelmen’s Hospital, came to the Sallyport. This, which was one of the
-gates of the town, is sometimes described as a Roman building, but is of
-mediæval origin. Thence, the Wall went over the crest of the hill still
-called the Wall-knoll, where the foundations of it were turned up about
-the middle of the last century. It crossed Pandon-dean on the north side
-of the locality called the Stock-bridge, and, in its western course,
-ascended the steep hill, on the summit of which stands All Saints’
-church. Brand tells us that the crypt of the old church had plainly been
-built of stones plundered from the adjacent Wall. A well of Roman
-masonry is said to have been discovered near the church when the
-foundations of the new building were prepared. Crossing Pilgrim-street a
-little above Silver-street, the course of the Wall is indicated by the
-present narrow street called the Low bridge. Until a comparatively
-recent period, the site of Dean-street formed the unenclosed bed of the
-Lort-burn, and was spanned by an arch called the Low-bridge. At the
-point where this mediæval viaduct stood, its Roman predecessor carried
-the Wall, with its attendant military way, across the gully. The church
-of St. Nicholas, according to Leland, whose statement is confirmed by
-subsequent writers, ‘stondithe on the very Picts Waulle.’ The Wall,
-leaving the church, crosses Collingwood-street in an oblique direction,
-and passing by St. John’s church, the Vicarage-house, and the
-Assembly-rooms, makes for the Town-wall somewhat to the north of the
-site of the West-gate. There can be little doubt that in its exit from
-the town, the Wall occupied the elevation on which Cumberland-row now
-stands.
-
-
-[Sidenote: PONS ÆLII.]
-
-PONS ÆLII.—Having tracked the Wall in its passage through the modern
-town, the site of the ancient station of PONS ÆLII next demands
-attention.
-
-Horsley is the only writer who has attempted to define its limits, and
-he had but slender evidence to guide him. He takes, as his data, the
-three following facts:—1. The course of the Wall westward, which he
-conceives, and no doubt correctly, would form the northern boundary of
-the station; 2. The direction of the Vallum, some portions of which
-remained, in his day, just outside the West-gate; 3. 'A traditionary
-account of the Wall having passed through St. George’s porch, near the
-north-west corner of St. Nicholas’-church.' As this porch stands a
-little to the south of the line of the great Wall, as laid down by him,
-he conceives that this traditionary wall must have been the east wall of
-the station, and draws it upon his plan accordingly.[60] The western
-wall now only remained to be determined, and this point was easily
-settled, by supposing the station to have been square. According to the
-line assigned by him to the Vallum, six chains is the distance which
-would intervene between it and the Wall; he therefore places the western
-rampart of the station at the corresponding distance of six chains from
-the eastern, and encloses altogether an area of little more than three
-acres.
-
-It may well be doubted whether the important station of PONS ÆLII would
-be subjected to the ordinary rules of castrametation. I am strongly
-disposed to think, that it would partake of the features of a commercial
-as well as of a military capital, and that its walls would not only
-embrace a wider range than ordinary camps, but would be allowed to adapt
-themselves more freely to the nature of the ground.
-
-The wants of the immense body of troops required to garrison the Wall,
-and man its out-posts, would create a considerable amount of commerce.
-The inhabitants of Italy, Gaul, and Spain, would be unwilling all at
-once to forego the comforts and luxuries of their sunny climes, and to
-be entirely cut off from intercourse with the land of their nativity.
-The fragments of amphoræ, which are so abundantly met with on the line
-of the Wall, shew that the soldiers sometimes gladdened their hearts
-with the wine of their native hills; and the innumerable sherds of
-Samian ware, which usually bestrew the camps of Roman occupation, prove
-that a continual intercourse was kept up with the continent. To the sea,
-as a means of communication between many of the stations of Roman
-Britain, frequent recourse would be had.
-
-The exports from this island to the continent were considerable. Camden
-tells us, that every year not less than eight hundred vessels laden with
-corn alone were sent out of it. Certain it is, that the imperial
-government would expect an adequate return for the expenditure
-occasioned by the troops in this country, and that the commodities of
-the continent would not be transmitted to the occupants of the Wall from
-motives of mere benevolence. Lead, which is now so abundant in the three
-northern counties, would probably form one article of export, and corn
-another. Those who have noticed the fertility of some portions of the
-region watered by the Tyne, will be able to conceive how luxuriant were
-the harvests which its alluvial soil produced when first turned up by
-the plough. It is certain that coal has been wrought to some extent in
-Roman times, and some of it may have been exported.
-
-No place in the north of England was so well fitted as Newcastle to be
-the emporium of the commerce of the North. Situated upon a noble river,
-at about ten miles from its mouth, it combined the naval advantages of
-the coast, with the security of an inland situation. The wealth arising
-from the commerce of the port would increase its importance, and the
-facility with which foreign news and foreign luxuries could be obtained,
-would render it the frequent resort of those prefects and tribunes whose
-usual posts were in bleaker and more inhospitable regions. The fact that
-the river was at this part spanned by a bridge of many arches, is a
-striking indication of the importance of the place even in the days of
-the emperor Hadrian.
-
-No account has come down to us of the state of Newcastle in the days of
-Roman occupation, but if, after it had been deprived of the advantages
-which the residence of the mural garrison conferred upon it, the
-venerable Bede calls it 'an illustrious royal city'—'_vico regis
-illustri_'—we must conclude that it was a place of considerable
-importance. The natural advantages of the situation struck the eye of
-Camden; ‘Now’, says he, ‘where the Wall and Tine almost meet together,
-Newcastle sheweth itself gloriously the very eye of all the townes in
-these parts.’
-
-Under these circumstances, there seems to be no reason why the walls of
-PONS ÆLII should form the usual military parallelogram any more than
-Roman Rochester, or Pompeii, or Rome itself, much less that the station
-should occupy an area of little more than three acres.
-
-The contour of the ground on which the modern Newcastle stands, is
-peculiar. It consists of three tongues of land, separated by natural
-valleys permeated by rivulets. The westernmost of these presents the
-boldest front to the river, and is that on which the Castle stands; the
-Skinner-burn bounds it on the west, and the valley of the Lort-burn, the
-present Dean-street, on the east. The contiguous tongue lies between the
-Lort-burn and Pandon-dean; and that still further removed, has for its
-eastern boundary the Ouse-burn. The same natural advantages which
-recommended the heights of the most westerly of these strips of ground
-to the Normans for the erection of their stronghold, would no doubt
-previously induce the Romans to select it as their chief position. They
-probably enclosed nearly the whole of it within their walls. Horsley,
-indeed, places his camp in this division, but in the least advantageous
-part of it, whether considered in a military or in a commercial point of
-view. The Romans would surely not overlook the importance of the ravine
-of Dean-street as a defence on the east, especially at a time when the
-tide flowed up it as far as the Painter-heugh, and of the cliff that
-descends from the Castle to the river on the south. The necessity of
-defending the bridge, and commanding the Tyne would not be forgotten.
-Taking all these things into account, we may fairly suppose the walls of
-PONS ÆLII to have been thus defined:—The Wall, passing through the site
-of St. Nicholas’-church, would, of course, be its northern boundary; a
-line coming from the church, and adapting itself to the crest of the
-hill that overhangs Dean-street, crossing the Head-of-the-Side and
-stretching as far as the elevated angle on which the County-courts now
-stand, will probably mark its eastern boundary; the southern rampart
-would run from this angle along the edge of the cliff overhanging the
-Close, as far as the site of the White-friar-tower, which stood at the
-head of the present Hanover-street; the western wall may have run in the
-line of the Town-wall as far as Neville-tower, and then have struck up
-in a straight line to meet the great Wall. Westward of this boundary,
-the ground slopes down to the Skinner-burn. If these lines are correctly
-drawn, Roman Newcastle would contain upwards of sixteen acres.
-
-Although the camp of PONS ÆLII occupied this tongue of land, there is no
-reason to suppose that suburban buildings were not erected on the other
-two, both of which are well protected by their natural situation. There
-is good ground to believe that Pandon, which was formerly a separate
-town from Newcastle, and is seated on the middle strip, was of Roman
-origin. Villas and gardens probably extended as far as the Ouse-burn.
-
-In order to render the preceding description intelligible to persons
-unacquainted with the topography of Newcastle, a plan of the town (Plate
-V.) and a lithographic view of PONS ÆLII are appended. In the plan of
-the town, Horsley’s demarkation of the station, as well as the one here
-proposed, is laid down. For the view of PONS ÆLII, the frontispiece, I
-am indebted to the pencil of Mr. G. Bouchier Richardson; the contour of
-the ground is very accurately delineated, and the probable outline of
-the station marked; the details of the picture are of course filled up
-according to the artist’s fancy—a fancy regulated by his antiquarian
-knowledge.
-
- _PLATE V._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- Plan of PONS ÆLII AND OF THE COURSE OF THE WALL THROUGH _NEWCASTLE ON
- TYNE_.
- And^w. Reid s.c.
-]
-
-[Sidenote: NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.]
-
-Roman antiquities, which, when they abound, are so serviceable in
-defining the seat of Roman occupation, are unfortunately here rather
-scanty and unimportant. This cannot be matter of surprise. In the middle
-ages, Newcastle abounded in churches and monastic buildings. To the
-erection of these and of the Castle, the Town-wall, and Gates, every
-stone whether lettered, sculptured, or plain, that could easily be
-obtained, would be appropriated.
-
-[Sidenote: PONS ÆLII.]
-
-The precincts of the Castle have afforded the most important discoveries
-of this kind. The present County-courts occupy the site of a building
-which used to be called the Half-moon-battery. This was probably the
-position of the south-east angle of the station of PONS ÆLII, and some
-of the lines of the octagonal face of the battery presented no doubt the
-actual curve of the station. To a certain extent the Norman builders may
-have converted to their own uses a portion of the labours of their
-imperial predecessors; appearances seemed to shew that the Castle wall
-between the Half-moon-battery and the Black-gate had rested upon a Roman
-foundation. When the County-courts were built, some important
-discoveries were made. Mr. Hodgson, who watched the progress of the
-excavations, has thus described them:—
-
- In digging for the foundations for the Northumberland County
- Court-house, in 1810, a well was found finely cased with Roman
- masonry. It still remains below the centre part of the present
- court-house. It had originally been a spring, or sunk low down on the
- river bank, and its circular wall, raised within another strong wall
- in the form of a trapezium to the height of the area of the station,
- and the space between them traversed with strong connecting beams of
- oak both horizontally and perpendicularly, and then tightly packed up
- with pure blue clay. Some beams of this timber were taken up and
- formed into the judges’ seats, and chairs for the grand-jury room, now
- in use. Two of the perpendicular beams had very large stags’ horns at
- their lower end, apparently to assist in steadying them till clay
- sufficient was put around them to keep them upright. On the original
- slope of the bank next the outer wall, there was a thick layer of
- ferns, grasses, brambles, and twigs of birch and oak, closely matted
- together, and evidently showing that before these works were
- constructed, man had not tenanted the spot.[61] Here also were exposed
- large remains of the foundations of other very thick and strong walls,
- one of which rose into the eastern wall of the Old Moot-hall, which
- was of exactly the same breadth, bearing, and style of building, and
- doubtless of the same date as the Roman foundations of which it was a
- continuance.
-
-[Sidenote: ANTIQUITIES OF PONS ÆLII.]
-
- The whole site of the Court-house, for several feet above the original
- surface of the earth, was strewn with a chaos of Roman ruins. I was
- frequently on the spot while the excavations were carrying on, and saw
- dug up large quantities of Roman pottery, two bronze coins of
- Antoninus Pius, parts of the shaft of a Corinthian pillar, fluted, and
- of the finest workmanship; besides many millstones, and two altars,
- one bearing an illegible inscription, and the other quite plain. The
- altars were found near the north-east corner of the Court-house, and
- near them a small axe, and a concave stone, which bore marks of fire,
- was split, and had thin flakes of lead in its fissures. The broad
- foundation walls were firm and impenetrable as the hardest rock. On
- Aug. 11, 1812, when the foundations of the north portico were sinking,
- a Roman coin was found (of what Emperor I have no minute,) and the
- original surface of the ground was covered with a thick stratum of
- small wood, some parts of which were wattled together in the form of
- crates or the corfs of collieries, but in a decayed state, and cut as
- easily with the workmen’s spades, as the brushwood found in peat
- mosses does. As there was much horse or mules’ dung near them, and
- some mules’ shoes amongst it, I thought they had been fixed there as
- crates or racks to eat fodder out of.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Since that period, few important discoveries have been made. In cutting
-the crest of the hill in front of the Castle for one of the piers of the
-Railway viaduct, a small stone figure of Mercury, represented in the
-adjoining wood-cut,[62] was found. It is preserved, among other
-antiquities, in the Museum in the Castle.
-
-Between the years 1840 and 1844, the White-friar-tower and the
-contiguous portions of the Town-wall of Newcastle were removed. Two
-Roman altars were discovered, which are now in the possession of the
-Society of Antiquaries, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. One of them is destitute of
-an inscription, and the other seems to bear the word SILVANO. Several
-coins of the Roman and mediæval age were picked up in its immediate
-vicinity. The Roman coins were of both the upper and the lower empire.
-
-From the manner in which the pieces of the middle and ancient periods
-were commingled, a thing of rare occurrence, it may be inferred that the
-tower was formed out of Roman materials, and that the Roman coins were
-re-imbedded without being noticed, whilst the workmen inadvertently
-added Nuremberg tokens and other contemporary pieces to the numismatic
-treasures of the spot.
-
-But, perhaps, the structure which gave name to PONS ÆLII affords the
-most interesting foot-prints of Roman occupation in Newcastle.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BRIDGE OF ÆLIUS.]
-
-Horsley received sufficient evidence to convince him, that a Roman road
-had gone from the south bank of the Tyne to Chester-le-street, and
-thence to the south of England. A bridge was necessary to conduct the
-road across the river. In 1771, a flood having carried away several of
-the arches of the bridge which then existed, and materially damaged the
-rest of the structure, it was found necessary to erect a new one. In
-removing the old piers the distinguishing characteristics of Roman
-masonry were observed; and the workmen were led to believe that the
-arches of the mediæval structure had been placed upon the foundations
-which Hadrian laid. Several piles of fine black oak, which had supported
-the foundation, were drawn out of the bed of the river, and found to be
-in a state of excellent preservation.[63]
-
-[Sidenote: COINS FOUND IN THE BRIDGE.]
-
-The coins that were found imbedded in the piers give decided evidence of
-the Roman origin of the structure. To some of these, in the possession
-of George Rippon, esq., of Waterville, North Shields, I have had access;
-they are here represented.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._—HADRIANUS AUGUSTUS, CONSUL TERTIUM. PATER PATRIÆ. Bare head of
-Hadrian.
-
-_Rev._—GERMANIA. The province personified as a female standing. In her
-right she holds a lance; her left hand rests upon a German-shaped
-shield.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._—IMPERATOR CÆSAR TRAJANUS HADRIANUS AUGUSTUS. Laureated head of
-Hadrian.
-
-_Rev._—PONTIFEX MAXIMUS TRIBUNITIA POTESTATE CONSUL TERTIUM. A female
-figure, with helmet, standing, holding a lance in her left hand, and in
-her right a patera, under which is an object that appears to be an
-altar.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._—Same as the former; but CONSUL SECUNDUM.
-
-_Rev._—Legend same as the former, but in the exergue JUSTITIA. A female
-seated; in her right hand a patera, in her left a spear.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._—Same as the two former.
-
-_Rev._—Same as in the former, but in the exergue. FEL PR (Felicitas
-Populi Romani). A female seated; in her right hand a caduceus, in her
-left a cornucopia.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._—SEVERUS AUGUSTUS PARTHICUS MAXIMUS. Laureated head of the
-emperor.
-
-_Rev._—PROVIDENTIA AUGUSTORUM. The figure of a female standing, with a
-globe at her feet.
-
-The coins of Hadrian are remarkably bold and sharp, and cannot have been
-long in circulation before being deposited in the bed where sixteen
-centuries of repose awaited them; that of Severus is a good deal
-corroded. Besides these, other coins have been found. Brand had one of
-Trajan, and he engraves a copper coin of Hadrian; he also had in his
-possession one of Antoninus Pius. Pennant describes, amongst others, a
-coin of Faustina the Elder, and one of Lucius Verus. Hodgson saw coins
-of Gordian and Magnentius, all of which had been obtained from the same
-spot.
-
-The coins posterior to the time of Hadrian were probably deposited
-during the repairs and alterations which the bridge received after its
-original construction in A.D. 120.
-
-[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF THE BRIDGE.]
-
-It is probable that the ancient bridge had no stone arches, but was
-provided with a horizontal road-way of timber. Pennant[64] who derived
-his information from the workmen, says, that ‘the old piers seem
-originally to have been formed without any springs for arches. This was
-a manner of building used by the Romans; witness the bridge built over
-the Danube by Trajan, at Severin, whose piers, I believe, still exist.’
-
-The foundations of the piers of three Roman bridges in the region of the
-Wall, still remain—one across the Tyne, at CORSTOPITUM, one across the
-North Tyne, at CILURNUM, and another across the Reed-water, at
-HABITANCUM; an examination of these has induced me to believe that they,
-at least, had no arches. The piers are of a size and strength sufficient
-to withstand the thrust of the waters without the aid of an arch; and in
-one at least of these cases, the requisite spring of the arch would have
-raised the road to an inconvenient height. An experienced mason who
-examined carefully the ruins of the bridge at HABITANCUM told me that he
-observed that all the stones which encumbered the spot were square, none
-of them having the shape of stones used in building arches. It is
-certain that in the mediæval period the Newcastle bridge had a road-way
-of timber; for Matthew of Paris tells us that, A.D. 1248, it, and the
-greater part of the town were destroyed by fire.
-
-[Sidenote: SUPPOSED MEDAL OF THE BRIDGE.]
-
-Brand, misled by the early numismatists, conceived that the bridge
-across the Tyne had been honoured by a commemorative medal. He says—
-
- Two coins appear to have been struck upon the building of two bridges
- by this emperor; one is doubtless to be referred to that of Rome; may
- not the other have been intended to commemorate the work we are now
- considering? One of the bridges marked on these coins has seven, the
- other five arches. The Tiber being a very inconsiderable river, when
- compared with the Tyne, we must therefore claim that with seven
- arches—especially as we find a view of the Pons Ælius at Rome in
- Piranesi’s collection, without the modern ornaments, where it is
- represented as consisting of exactly five arches.[65]
-
-Alas! for a theory so beautiful and so grateful to the feelings of
-Newcastle antiquaries! Mr. Akerman, in his work on rare and inedited
-Roman coins, has pronounced the relentless verdict—‘The medallion with
-the _Pont Ælius_, quoted by the early numismatic writers, is a modern
-fabrication.’
-
-It is perhaps too much to suppose that all the arches of the mediæval
-bridge rested upon Roman foundations, but it is more than probable that
-the piers of the original structure would be at least as numerous as
-those of its successor. The mediæval bridge had twelve arches.
-
-[Sidenote: ORIGIN OF THE NAME PONS ÆLII.]
-
-No altar or other inscribed stone has been found to confirm the opinion
-that Newcastle was the ancient PONS ÆLII. Brand was ‘of opinion that the
-inscriptions belonging to the station of PONS ÆLII are all built up in
-the old keep of the Castle, and that a rich treasure of this kind will
-some time or other be discovered, lurking in its almost impregnable
-walls, by future antiquaries.’ May the antiquary never be born that
-shall behold this treasure! Such evidence is, however, scarcely needed
-to lead us to the ancient designation of the place. The fact that PONS
-ÆLII occurs in the Notitia between SEGEDUNUM and CONDERCUM, and that
-Newcastle lies between the modern representatives of these two stations,
-Wallsend and Benwell, is strong presumption in favour of the theory, and
-the fact that a Roman bridge here crossed the Tyne, renders it almost
-indubitable. This structure took the name of the Bridge of Ælius, after
-Hadrian,[66] who was of the Ælian family, and the bridge gave name to
-the station. The Notitia informs us that PONS ÆLII was governed by the
-tribune of the cohort of the Cornovii, ‘a people,’ says Hodgson, ‘whose
-name is unnoticed by all the ancient geographers I have access to.’
-
-[Sidenote: THE CASTLE OF NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.]
-
-Before leaving the station of PONS ÆLII, a reference to the mediæval
-structure—the Norman keep—which gives the town its modern name, may be
-allowed. It is the most perfect specimen of Norman castrametation in the
-kingdom; and a careful examination of its structure will yield a more
-correct view of the mode of warfare adopted at the time of its erection,
-and of the mournful condition of society then existing, than the fullest
-verbal description could give. Within a recent period its passages have
-been cleared and its portals opened, so as to afford the antiquary an
-opportunity of examining it thoroughly. The Corporation of Newcastle,
-whose property it is, have, in this respect, set an example which might
-with advantage be followed by the national government. To the student of
-the Wall, however, the collection of Roman antiquities which the castle
-contains, will be the object of greatest interest. In the number and
-importance of its altars and inscribed stones, it excels every other
-museum in Britain. As the Castle contains so many of the spoils of the
-Wall, it is much to be wished that it could be made the depository of
-all that have been discovered on the line. Numerous individual objects
-of interest are scattered over the country, and he who would examine
-them all must travel several hundred miles, and propitiate the favour of
-many private gentlemen, as well as public bodies. Documents illustrative
-of the history of a country may be regarded as the property of the
-country, so far at least, as to be made easily accessible to all. PONS
-ÆLII is the fitting place to deposit those antiquities of the Wall which
-cannot be carefully preserved on the spot where the Romans originally
-placed them.
-
-
-[Sidenote: ROAD TO BENWELL.]
-
-The reader will probably now be glad to disentangle himself from the
-intricacies of PONS ÆLII, and to pursue with rapid steps the course of
-the Wall westward.
-
-Between Newcastle and Benwell-hill, the traces of the works are faint
-but interesting. The turnpike road runs upon the bed of the prostrate
-Wall, so that, except occasionally in a neighbouring building, not one
-stone of it is to be seen; its constant companion, the north fosse, may,
-however, be recognized in a kind of depression or slack, which runs
-nearly all the way parallel with the road on the traveller’s right hand.
-On his left, he will sometimes be able to discern with tolerable
-certainty the course of the Vallum. A small, but well defined portion of
-it, is met with immediately after leaving the town, behind a row of
-houses, appropriately termed Adrianople. Though the stone wall has
-perished, this humble earth-work has survived the accidents of seventeen
-eventful centuries! Its days, however, are now numbered; a contiguous
-quarry is making rapid encroachments upon it.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CONDERCUM.]
-
-CONDERCUM.—About two miles from Newcastle, and near the modern village
-of Benwell, stood the third station of the line, CONDERCUM.
-
-The present turnpike road runs through it, occupying, in all
-probability, very nearly the site of its ancient _via principalis_. So
-feeble, however, are the traces of it which remain, that the wayfarer
-who does not scrutinize the spot very narrowly, will pass on his journey
-without knowing that he is treading ground once jealously guarded by
-imperial power—the scene, for centuries, of a crowded city’s joys and
-fears.
-
-The situation of the camp is good; without being much exposed, it
-commands an extensive prospect in every direction. Northwards, looking
-over the grounds of Fenham, the Simonside hills appear in the distance,
-and still more remote, is the lofty range of Cheviot. To the south is
-the vale of Ravensworth, which is exceeded by the vale of Clwyd only in
-magnitude, not in beauty, and to the south-west, the lordly Tyne threads
-its way through the richest of landscapes.
-
-The sunny slope, south of the station, was favourable for the erection
-of the suburban buildings of the occupants of the camp, the foundations
-of several having been discovered.
-
-In Horsley’s days, the ramparts were large and distinct; now, their
-surface is chiefly marked by a general elevation, occasioned probably by
-the accumulated ruins of the ancient fort. It contains in all a space of
-nearly five acres. Gordon conceived that the Wall was continued right
-through the station. This would have divided it into two distinct parts.
-As Horsley and Brand prove, the Wall came up to its eastern and western
-ramparts, but did not pass through it. The northern wall of the station
-itself was a sufficient defence in that quarter. About a third of the
-station was to the north of the line of the Wall, the remaining
-two-thirds were within it. The Vallum, Horsley tells us, fell in with
-the southern rampart.
-
-The portion north of the turnpike road is at present under tillage. In
-Brand’s days it was covered with a plantation. The man who first
-ploughed it told me that in doing so, his horse, on one occasion, sank
-up to its middle in traversing some chambers that had been insecurely
-covered. The quantity of Roman pottery which is found in this portion of
-the camp is remarkable. Fragments may be seen at every step. The
-peculiar character of the Roman earthenware, especially of the
-coral-coloured kind, denominated Samian, renders this an interesting
-evidence of Roman occupation.
-
-The larger portion of the station, that to the south of the road, is
-enclosed within the walls of Benwell-park. The inequalities of its
-grassy surface indicate the lines of its streets, and the position of
-some of its principal buildings. Near its centre is a large mound, which
-would probably reward examination. The southern rampart, with its fosse,
-is very distinct.
-
-[Sidenote: BENWELL.]
-
-Two hypocausts have been discovered in connexion with this station; one
-within its walls, close to the south side of the road, and between forty
-and fifty yards from the eastern rampart, the other without them, and
-about three hundred yards to the south-west. Of the latter building a
-plan is given by Brand. It contained eight or nine apartments, five of
-which had floors supported upon pillars. The floors consisted of ‘flags
-covered with a composition of various hard ingredients, about eighteen
-inches thick, such as small pieces of brick and blue and red pots, mixed
-up with run lime.’ The pillars were all of stone, and were so arranged
-as to allow hot air to circulate beneath the apartments. The idea
-generally entertained of these arrangements is, that they were intended
-for hot baths and sudatories. In pursuance of this opinion, Mr. Shafto,
-who discovered this hypocaust, says: ‘Here were found many square bricks
-with holes in the middle, which were probably joined together by way of
-pipes, to conduct the water from the top of the hill, where there was
-also the appearance of other baths, and where, probably, springs had
-been, but since drained by the colliery.’ However much the Romans in
-their own luxurious city may have been addicted to the indulgence of the
-hot-bath and the sweating-room, it may well be doubted, whether, in this
-cold climate, they would have any great desire for it, or if they had,
-whether the dread realities of war would allow them to make, on an
-enemy’s frontier, erections so extensive as this has been, for such a
-purpose. Next to food, warmth would be their most urgent demand, and a
-more effectual mode of maintaining a uniform temperature in their
-dwellings could not be devised than that which the hypocaust supplied.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Brand tells us that great conduits or sewers, composed of large wrought
-stones, were discovered in the north part of the station at the depth of
-about a yard and a half.
-
-Several inscribed slabs and small altars have been found in the station.
-The most important one of these, which is preserved in the parsonage at
-Ryton, is here represented. By comparing it with the Notitia, we learn
-the ancient name of the station, and the locality of its original
-occupants.
-
- MATRIBVS CAMPEST[RIBVS]
- ET GENIO ALÆ PRI[MÆ] HISPANORVM
- ASTVRVM [OB VIRTVTEM]
- [APPELLATÆ] GORDIANÆ TITVS]
- AGRIPPA PRÆ[FECTVS] TEMPLVM A S[OLO]
- [RES]TITVIT.
-
- To the Campestral Mothers,
- and to the Genius of the first wing of Spanish
- Astures, on account of their valour,
- styled Gordiana, Titus
- Agrippa, their prefect, this temple, from the ground,
- rebuilt.
-
-The Notitia records that the præfect ‘_alæ primæ Astorum_’ was stationed
-at CONDERCUM. This slab, reads Ast_u_rum, not Ast_o_rum. At two other
-stations the same people resided; at CILURNUM, the Notitia places the
-præfect ‘_alæ secundæ Astorum_,’ and at Æsica, the tribune ‘_cohortis
-primæ Astorum_.’ At both these forts, as well as in the case immediately
-before us, inscriptions have been found which are written Ast_u_rum; the
-probability, therefore, is, that a clerical error has crept into the
-Notitia, and that it was the Astures, not the Asti (a people of
-Liguria), who garrisoned these posts. The Astures were a people from the
-eastern part of the modern Asturias, in Spain. 'Under the empire, the
-term _ala_ was applied to regiments of horse, raised, it would seem,
-with very few exceptions, in the provinces.'[67] This fractured slab,
-therefore, furnishes us with the information that the camp at Benwell
-was anciently named CONDERCUM, and that it was garrisoned by a Spanish
-cavalry regiment. It supplies other facts. This regiment was styled,
-probably on account of some illustrious achievement, Gordiana. The
-emperor Gordian, from whom this title is derived, began his reign in the
-year 238. We have thus a proof of the continued occupation of the camp
-until a date subsequent to this period. The event recorded by the
-inscription is to the same effect. A temple which had been erected,
-probably at the first formation of the station, had through time or the
-chances of war, become so entirely dilapidated, as to require
-rebuilding, and Titus Agrippa accomplished the work. The Romans,
-although they had at this time been long in the occupation of the
-isthmus, had then no thoughts of relinquishing it. The woodland deities,
-to whom the temple was dedicated, will require separate discussion
-afterwards. [Illustration: ‘altar] To the same occasion will be referred
-a remarkable altar inscribed to the three Lamiæ, which was discovered at
-this station. Two altars[68] of less importance, which were found here,
-may at once be disposed of. They are dedicated to one of the favourite
-deities of Rome—Mars. The focus, or place for burning the offering, is
-deep and well marked in each of them. They are small domestic altars,
-before which the soldier would perform his private devotions. As such,
-they give us a little insight into the heart and feelings of the
-worshipper.
-
- DEO M
- ARTI V
- ICTOR[I]
- VINDI[CI]
- V[OTVM]
-
- To the god
- Mars
- The Conqueror _and_
- Avenger
- In performance of a vow.
-
-Along with this altar, as Brand tells us, were found two stones
-resembling pine-apples. This is by no means an unusual ornament of the
-works along the line. The pine-apple ornament is frequently introduced
-in the stained-glass works of the middle ages. [Illustration: Altar to
-Mars] As the fruit to which it bears a resemblance could not be known in
-Europe until after the discovery of America, the origin of the figure is
-an interesting speculation. I am disposed to think it is of Mithraic
-origin, and that the prototype of it was a mass of flame proceeding from
-the torch usually represented in the statues of that deity. The other
-altar, here given, is inscribed—
-
- ARTI
- IENV
- ANIV[S]
- V[OTVM]
-
- To the god
- Mars
- Jenu-
- anius _erected this_
- In performance of a vow.
-
-Besides these and some other inscribed stones, many coins have been
-found here; amongst them, Brand mentions denarii of Trajan, Hadrian,
-Faustina senior, and Domitian; brass coins of Valentinian, Gratianus,
-Diocletian, Faustina, and Maxentius, with many others not legible.
-Obscene figures are frequently found in Roman stations. They were worn
-by females as a religious charm. Benwell has furnished one such example
-of a very remarkable kind. Before leaving the station, the inquiring
-traveller will do well to examine the stones of the park-wall. He will
-soon detect many of Roman mould, whose faces have been scarred by the
-blasts of many centuries. The larger ones have been derived from the
-Wall—the smaller, from the curtain wall of the station, or the dwellings
-erected within it.
-
-[Sidenote: CONDERCUM.]
-
-The pleasant village of Benwell lies a little to the south-west of the
-station. ‘The old tower of Benwell-hall,’ says Bourne, 'was the place
-where the prior of Tynemouth resided some part of the summer, and the
-chapel, which Mr. Shaftoe opens and supplies for the good of the people
-of his village, was the prior’s domestic chapel.' Who that visits the
-spot will say that the prior who made the selection was not a man of
-taste? Benwell, as Horsley remarks, is not improbably thought to have
-its name from the northern word _ben_, (Saxon _binnan_) signifying
-within, and _well_ for wall, as being seated within, or on the south
-side of the Wall.[69] Whitaker derives the Roman name of the station,
-CONDERCUM, from the Celtic _Cond ar gui_, the height upon the water.[70]
-The river being near, the description is apposite.
-
-
-Leaving CONDERCUM, we again pursue our journey westward. The road for
-several miles running upon the base of the Wall, the facing stones may
-not unfrequently be seen for some distance together, protruding through
-the ‘metal.’ This used to be more the case formerly than at present, for
-since the diversion of the traffic from the road to the rail, motives of
-economy have induced the road surveyors to quarry, in some places, the
-last remnants of this great work of antiquity, for materials with which
-to repair the highway. The north fosse, as we pursue our journey,
-becomes more distinct on the right of the road.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WALL AT DENTON.]
-
-Descending Benwell-hill, the village of East Denton is reached. Here we
-meet for the first time with a fragment of the Wall. The accompanying
-wood-cut exhibits its present state. William Hutton describes the
-interesting relic with becoming reverence.
-
-[Illustration: The Wall at East Denton]
-
- At Denton Dean, situated at the bottom of Benwell-hill, the great road
- veers a few yards to the right, that is into Severus’ ditch, and gives
- us for the first time a sight of that most venerable piece of
- antiquity, THE WALL, which is six yards south of the road, and twenty
- short of the brook I am going to pass. The fragment is thirty-six feet
- long, has three courses of facing stones on one side, and four on the
- other, and is exactly nine feet thick. An apple tree grows on the top.
-
-It has lost a course of facing-stones since Hutton saw it, and the apple
-tree is but the shadow of what it was.
-
-The turnpike road, which usually runs upon the site of the Wall,
-uniformly swerves to the right when passing a village. The truth is,
-nearly every house and hamlet in the district has sprung out of the
-Wall. In many instances a mile-castle, slightly added to, has formed a
-mediæval dwelling of some strength. The nucleus thus provided, became,
-in the course of time, clustered round with contiguous habitations, so
-that when, after the last season of strife with which the borders were
-visited, the road came to be constructed, motives of economy required
-that these spots of increased value should be avoided.
-
-Beyond the burn, the ground again rises, and the Wall, stretching
-onwards in a line with the road, forms a distinct, but turf-covered
-mound. At the distance of a field to the south of it, the Vallum is seen
-in greater distinctness than before. Both of the aggers and the
-intervening fosse may be clearly made out. Some young ash-trees grow in
-the ditch.
-
-[Sidenote: DENTON HALL.]
-
-Advancing a little further, we have Denton-hall, formerly the seat of
-the literary Mrs. Montague, on the right; attracted by her influence,
-many of the great spirits of the age were occasionally found to be
-assembled within its walls. Very nearly opposite the hall, a larger mass
-of ruin than usual betokens the site of a mile-castle.
-
-Ascending the hill from West Denton, the fosse of the Murus is very
-distinctly seen. The road is elevated two or three feet above the
-natural level of the ground, the Wall, probably some courses high,
-forming its nucleus.
-
-On the left hand, the lines of the Vallum are feebly indicated, but by
-extending our glance some distance backwards and forwards, we can, with
-tolerable certainty, distinguish the artificial mounds from the natural
-heavings of the surface.
-
-[Sidenote: CHAPEL-HOUSE.]
-
-Passing the fourth mile-stone, we arrive at Chapel-houses. This name is
-of sufficiently frequent occurrence along the line to suggest a
-momentary inquiry into its origin. In the early ages of Christianity, a
-mile-castle may have occasionally been the resort of the worshippers of
-the true God; or in the ‘troublesome times’ of border warfare, when the
-church not unfrequently shared in the general devastation, it may have
-been set apart as a place for the confirmation of matrimonial vows, and
-for the performance of religious rites.
-
-From the crown of this hill we have one of the finest views which
-Northumberland can afford. The Tyne, in all its glittering beauty,
-stretches far before us. Its southern bank is crowned by the pretty
-village of Ryton, its left is variegated with the once beautiful, but
-now furnace-fuming, Wylam. An amphitheatre of hills shuts in the distant
-scene.[71]
-
-Horsley describes some ruined ramparts, called the Castle-steads near
-Chapel-houses, to the south of both Vallum and Wall. They were probably
-temporary encampments and have now disappeared.
-
-[Sidenote: WALBOTTLE-DEAN.]
-
-Before crossing Walbottle[72]-dean, the Vallum, which is very distinct,
-and the Wall (_i. e._ the road) approach each other, apparently for
-mutual support. There are no traces of a bridge across the ravine.
-
-As we ascend the next hill, and pass Throckley,[73] we have, for the
-most part, the fosse on the right hand, and the mounds of the Vallum on
-the left, very boldly developed. By the time the traveller has advanced
-thus far, he will have learnt the necessity of bearing in mind that he
-is in a mining district. If he overlook this circumstance, he will be in
-danger of mistaking the track of some old ‘waggon way’ for the terraced
-lines of Roman cultivation, or an old ‘pit-heap’ for an indubitable
-British barrow.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- Cha^s Richardson, Delt. John Storey. Lith.
- THE WORKS AT HEDDON-ON-THE WALL
-]
-
-After passing Throckley, just where a gate on the left hand enters the
-field from the road, a mound covered, in winter at least, with greener
-herbage than the contiguous ground indicates the site of a mile-castle.
-A little further on, a range of houses of peculiar appearance, called
-the Frenchman’s-row, attracts the eye. It was the residence, after the
-first French revolution, of a number of refugees. The dial which
-ornaments the Row is of their fabrication. The building is now used as a
-poor-house.
-
-[Sidenote: HEDDON-ON-THE-WALL.]
-
-On the top of the little eminence, at which we arrive before reaching
-Heddon-on-the-Wall, the north fosse is deeper and bolder than it has
-hitherto appeared; it must be nearly in its original perfection. The
-works of the Vallum, about fifty yards to the south, are also finely
-developed. The ditch, in both cases, is cut through the free-stone rock.
-Here, also, if the traveller will forsake the turnpike, for the road, as
-usual, diverges to the right in order to avoid the village, he may see a
-fragment of the Wall much longer and somewhat higher than the one at
-Denton. Its north face is destroyed, but about five courses of the
-southern face are perfect. The accompanying lithograph shews the present
-state of the Barrier here. The Wall is in the foreground, while in the
-distance (looking eastward) the section of the north fosse, and of the
-works of the Vallum, is distinctly seen.
-
-About a mile north of the village is a striking prominence called
-Heddon-law. Horsley remarks—‘Not far from Heddon-on-the-Wall have been
-some remarkable tumuli.’
-
-The ditch of the Vallum cuts right through the village, its lowest dip
-forming the village pond; it is rather remarkable that in such a
-situation, it should not long ago have been obliterated.
-
-Descending the hill on which Heddon-on-the-Wall stands, the lines of the
-Barrier keep close together, and not without reason. The crag on the
-south, now the scene of extensive quarrying operations, completely
-commands them. Surely a post must have been maintained on this eminence
-in the days of Roman occupation, though it had only been for the sake of
-a look-out.
-
-Passing the eighth mile-stone, where the Vallum is in good condition, we
-approach the fourth great station of the Barrier. A road, crossing the
-turnpike at right angles, is close to its east rampart.
-
-
-[Sidenote: VINDOBALA.]
-
-VINDOBALA.—The station now called Rutchester, stands on flat ground, but
-commands a considerable prospect. The Notitia places here the tribune of
-the first cohort of the Frixagi, a people [Sidenote: RUTCHESTER.] whose
-country does not seem to be mentioned by any ancient geographer. The
-inside dimensions of this station, from north to south, are 178 yards,
-and from east to west, 135; it consequently contains nearly five acres.
-The Wall started each way from the north side of its east and west
-gates; so that a a greater portion of the station lay on the north than
-on the south side of it, as is shewn in the plan of it, Plate II. At
-present, the turnpike road runs between these portions; that on the
-north has been all ploughed, and three of its sides sloped into the
-ditch; its general outlines may, however, be distinguished; the southern
-part is irregular in its surface, with heaps of ruins, still covered
-with sward.[74] In Horsley’s time, the northern part was sufficiently
-perfect to enable him to discern six turrets in it, 'one at each corner,
-one at each side of the gate, and one between each corner, and those
-adjoining to the gate.'[75] The Vallum seems to have joined the station
-in a line with its southern rampart. The ditch on the western side is
-still tolerably distinct. The suburbs have been to the south of the
-station, but their site has recently been disturbed by the opening of an
-extensive quarry which has supplied large quantities of the stone used
-in carrying the railway over the Tyne, and through Newcastle.
-
-On the brow of the hill, just west of the station, there is still to be
-seen, hewn out of the solid rock, what Wallis calls a coffin. It has
-more the appearance of a cistern. It is twelve feet long, four broad,
-and two deep, and has a hole close to the bottom at one end. When
-discovered, it had a partition of masonry across it, three feet from one
-end, and contained many decayed bones, teeth and vertebræ, and an iron
-implement resembling a three-footed candlestick. In the immediate
-vicinity of this spot, three fine Roman altars were discovered in 1844;
-they are now in the possession of Mr. James, of Otterburn, and are
-described in the Archæologia Æliana, iv. 5.
-
-[Sidenote: VINDOBALA.]
-
-The etymology of the name of this station seems to be tolerably plain.
-‘VINDOBALA,’ says Whitaker, ‘signifies merely the fort upon the heights.
-_Bala_ remains, to the present period, the Welsh and Irish appellation
-of a town.’ I have received a similar account of the word from those
-acquainted with the Gaelic language. The station, however, though
-possessing the advantage of a gentle elevation above the contiguous
-ground, does not stand upon a lofty eminence.
-
-No inscriptions have been found here mentioning the first cohort of the
-Frixagi, which, according to the Notitia, was quartered in VINDOBALA.
-This is of little consequence; the names of the contiguous stations both
-east and west having been ascertained, the order of the stations in the
-Notitia is sufficient evidence as to the identity of this with the
-ancient VINDOBALA.
-
-The farm-house at Rutchester partly consists of an ancient building,
-possessing great strength of masonry. A gothic carving on the interior
-wall of its principal apartment shews that it is not of Roman
-construction. It was probably a mediæval stronghold, made out of the
-ruins of the station. It contains a well, now boarded over, which may be
-of Roman date.
-
-Most of the stones of the farm buildings and adjacent fences are Roman,
-and one or two fragments of Roman inscriptions built up in the stables,
-besides some small altars preserved on the premises, give interest to
-the place.
-
-[Sidenote: MURAL HOSPITALITY.]
-
-Mr. Hutton is usually very particular in giving a detail of the kind of
-entertainment he met with at the various points of his journey. The
-recital of his reception at Rutchester kindles into poetry:
-
- I saw old Sir at dinner sit,
- Who ne'er said, "Stranger, take a bit,"
- Yet might, although a poet said it,
- Have saved his beef, and raised his credit.
-
-His own appearance, he tells us, was a little peculiar, and
-archæological pursuits not being in vogue in that day, the farmer
-probably had grave doubts as to the propriety of tempting the
-enthusiastic old man to prolong his stay.
-
-It has frequently been my lot to receive the kindly attentions of the
-inhabitants of the mural region. Often have my eyes, bedimmed with
-fatigue, been ‘enlightened’ by partaking of the barley cake of the
-cottager, (excellent food for a thirsty climb) as well as the costlier
-viands of the farm tenant, or proprietor. Never shall I forget visiting,
-on one occasion, a frail tenement near Chesterholm. Its only inmate, an
-old woman, in the spirit of regal hospitality, asked me to join with her
-in partaking of her only luxury—her pipe. I recently observed with
-regret, that the cottage was tenantless.
-
-[Sidenote: NORTHUMBRIAN YEOMEN.]
-
-The inhabitants of that part of the district which is remote from towns,
-do not affect the dress, or the speech, or the manners of polished
-citizens. They like to know a person before they welcome him, and make
-their approaches cautiously. But if slow in grasping the hand, they do
-it heartily and sincerely. There is scarcely a latch in the wilder
-regions of the country, that I would not freely lift in the assurance of
-a smiling welcome. Often as I have groaned under the toils to which my
-present undertaking has exposed me, I have reason to rejoice, that the
-Barrier of the Lower Isthmus has been the means of making me acquainted
-with many of the true-hearted and intelligent yeomen, both of my own
-county, and of Cumberland, whom I should not otherwise have known.
-Although their dialect may sound strangely to a southern ear, yet it is
-English in its native purity and strength; a great authority, Mr.
-Thorpe, having said, 'I believe the genuine Anglian dialect to be that
-which is usually denominated the Northumbrian.'[76]
-
-Proceeding, now, after this long digression, on our journey, we pass, on
-the left hand side of the road, an inn generally called the Iron-sign.
-Some of the buildings are entirely composed of Roman stones. In the
-erection nearest the road are three centurial stones. One has on it COH
-VIII, another has the word LVPI, probably to announce the fact, that the
-portion of the Wall in which it was originally inserted had been built
-by the troop under the command of the centurion Lupus; the third is
-illegible.
-
-[Sidenote: HARLOW-HILL.]
-
-Passing the ninth milestone, we stand upon the top of an eminence from
-which there is a good view of Harlow-hill, and of the adjacent country.
-The Wall here slightly changes its course for the purpose of ascending
-the summit before it. The Vallum keeps company with the Wall for a short
-distance, but eventually swerves to the south with the design of passing
-along the base of the hill; it rejoins the Wall on the other side. This
-is an arrangement which we should not have encountered had the Vallum
-been intended for an independent barrier against a northern foe. The
-north fosse is here very distinct, forming a deep groove on the left of
-the road all the way to Harlow-hill.
-
-Just before entering the village of Harlow-hill, some portions of the
-heart of the Wall may be seen, and a careful scrutiny will enable us to
-ascertain its course through the village, a part of its foundation, of
-the full width (nine feet), yet remaining. As usual, in passing through
-the village, the turnpike road leaves the Wall for a short distance.
-There was a mile-castle at Harlow-hill, which, Horsley says, had a high
-situation, and a large prospect; all traces of it are now gone. A field,
-about half a mile north of Harlow-hill, bears the ominous name of
-Grave-riggs; the traditionary account of its origin being, that after a
-bloody battle in ‘the troublesome times,’ it became the resting-place of
-slaughtered multitudes.
-
-The village and ancient stronghold of Welton (a corruption no doubt of
-Wall-town) is about half a mile to the south of the road. The fortlet is
-entirely built of Roman stones. The adjoining mansion, at present
-occupied by the farm tenant, bears the date of 1616. Its large hall,
-with ample hearth and spacious bow-windows, is redolent of ancient
-hospitality. In the memory of the villagers, the freaks of a benevolent
-ghost, named Silky, which frequented the old tower, and the feats of
-strength performed by William of Welton, still survive the weekly
-intrusion of the newspaper.
-
-[Sidenote: WALL-HOUSES.]
-
-At Wall-houses, on the south side of the road, traces of a mile-castle
-are obscurely visible; between this point and the fourteenth mile-stone
-all the lines of the Barrier are developed in a degree that is quite
-inspiriting. The north fosse is, for a considerable distance, planted
-with trees, which will for some time save it from the envious plough.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- THE WORKS NEAR CARR HILL.
-]
-
-[Sidenote: THE VALLUM AT DOWN-HILL.]
-
-Immediately after passing the farm house of Carr-hill, an appearance of
-great interest presents itself. The works of the Vallum are coming
-boldly forward in company with the Wall, when suddenly, and at a decided
-angle, they change their course, evidently to avoid mounting a small
-barrow-like elevation, called Down-hill.[77] The Wall pursues its course
-straightforward. The view, exhibited on the opposite page, taken from
-the edge of the hill, looking eastward, shews this arrangement. The
-road, with the ditch on its north side, is the representative of the
-Wall. The Vallum and Wall again converge as they approach HUNNUM. These
-appearances strongly corroborate the opinion that all the lines of the
-Barrier are but parts of one great engineering scheme. If the Vallum had
-been constructed as an independent defence against a northern foe, and
-nearly a century before the Wall, we cannot conceive that an elevation,
-which so entirely commands the Vallum, would have been left open to the
-enemy; especially as it would have been just as easy to take the Vallum
-along the north flank of the hill as along the south. Horsley, who
-advocates the opinion that the north agger is Agricola’s Military Way,
-that the southern aggers were the work of Hadrian, and that the Wall was
-not erected till the time of Severus, is rather at a loss to account for
-these appearances. He says:—
-
- Before we come to Halton-chesters, somewhat appears that is pretty
- remarkable. Hadrian’s Vallum running full upon a little hill, turns at
- once round about the skirt of it, leaving the hill on the north, and
- thereby, one would think, rendering the Vallum itself a weak defence
- at that part. The north agger goes close to the south side of this
- hill; so that they were also obliged to carry the Vallum round the
- hill in order to preserve the parallelism. If the north agger was the
- Old Military Way, and prior to the Vallum, there was nothing improper
- in carrying it on the south skirts of the hill; and then when the
- Vallum came afterwards to be built, (for a defence, or place of
- retreat) they were under a kind of necessity to form it after this
- manner.
-
-Since so able a man as Horsley can devise no better defence of his
-theory, it may well be abandoned altogether. It cannot be conceived
-that, under a rule so vigorous as Hadrian’s, the builders of the Barrier
-would be allowed to give the enemy a material advantage, in order to
-save themselves the trouble of reconstructing the Military Way for a
-short space.
-
-Down-hill bears marks of having been quarried at some distant period for
-its limestone. A little to the south of the Vallum are some circular
-lines, which an experienced observer tells me, are the remains of
-‘sow-kilns.’ It would, perhaps, be rash to claim for them a primeval
-date, though in their appearance there is nothing inconsistent with the
-supposition.
-
-[Sidenote: HALTON RED-HOUSE.]
-
-Halton Red-house is next passed on the right hand. It is entirely built
-of stones taken from the neighbouring station; they have, however, been
-fresh dressed. In the farm-yard is a rectangular stone trough, which was
-found in the station, and which its owner describes as a ‘smiddy trow,’
-and shews upon the edge the place which had been worn away by the
-attrition of the blacksmith’s irons. It might, indeed, serve very well
-for such a purpose, but troughs of this kind are of too frequent
-occurrence in the buildings along the line to allow us to suppose that
-this was their usual application. They are generally very rudely carved
-both outside and in, and not unfrequently are formed of an irregular
-unsquared block of stone. I think that they were used for domestic and
-culinary purposes. There is a fragment of one lying in the hypocaust at
-Chesters, the edge of which is worn down by the sharpening of knives
-upon it.
-
-We now approach the fifth station of the line,
-
-
-[Sidenote: Hunnum.]
-
-HUNNUM.—This ancient abode of Rome’s warriors, with its walls, streets,
-temples, markets, and aqueducts, is nearly one unbroken sweep of
-luxuriant vegetation. The traveller may readily pass by it, as Hutton
-did, without discerning symptoms of Roman occupation. A small,
-half-ruined hut stands within its area, a fitting emblem of the
-surrounding desolation. It is almost needless to name a city, which has
-no existence, but for convenience sake,[Sidenote: HALTON-CHESTERS.]
-Horsley conferred upon it the style and title of Halton-chesters. The
-castle of Halton is close by.
-
-The form of the station is peculiar, as is shewn in the plan of it,
-Plate II. The Wall joins the station at about one-third the distance
-between its northern and southern extremity. The portion of the station
-which is to the north of the Wall is not so broad as the part to the
-south of it. The only reason which has been assigned for this is, that,
-as Horsley observes, 'there is a descent or hollow ground joining to the
-west side of this part, so that the work could not be carried on any
-farther that way without much trouble and expense; though, it must be
-owned, the Romans don't usually seem to have valued either the one or
-the other'. It is remarkable that in adapting the station to the ground,
-they have not given to the wall, at the north east corner, a slanting
-direction, as would have been most convenient, but have, as usual,
-adhered to the rectangular form.
-
-The turnpike road, keeping the line of the Wall, crosses the station
-from the site of the eastern to that of the western gateway. The section
-north of the road was brought under cultivation about twenty years ago,
-when immense quantities of stones were removed. It is now called the
-‘Brunt-ha’penny field’ in consequence of the number of corroded copper
-coins which were found in it. The portion south of the road has a gentle
-slope and a fair exposure to the sun. It has not recently been ploughed,
-and consequently exhibits, with considerable distinctness, the lines of
-the outer entrenchments and ditches, as well as the contour of the
-ruined buildings and streets of the interior. The suburbs have covered a
-fine tract of pasture-ground to the south. The valley on the west side
-of the station would materially strengthen the position in this quarter.
-
-The excavations made in the northern section, a few years ago, revealed
-several points of interest. The careful manner in which the stones, even
-of the foundation, were squared and chiselled, struck beholders with
-surprise. The thickness, of one part at least, of the west wall of the
-station I have been assured, by a person who superintended the work, was
-nine feet.[78] In the angle of the north-west portion of the station,
-just outside the Wall, was a large heap, containing numerous fragments
-of Roman pottery, the bones of animals, the horns of deer, and other
-refuse matter—it must, in short, have been the dung-hill of the camp.
-Even now, although the plough has passed repeatedly over it, its
-position is shewn by the darkness of the soil. On the same occasion,
-there was laid open an aqueduct of about three quarters of a mile in
-length, which seems to have conducted water from a spring or burn in the
-high ground north of the place where Stagshawbank fair is held. My
-informant, who traced it for between two and three hundred yards, says,
-that it was formed of stone, and was covered with flags.[79] In crossing
-the valley to the west of the fort, it must have been supported on
-pillars, or a mound. The most remarkable circumstance to be noticed
-respecting this water-course is, that it was on the north, or the
-enemy’s side of the Wall. It is scarcely probable that the Romans would
-depend for that portion of their daily supply, which was required for
-drinking and culinary purposes, on so precarious a source; but it is not
-unlikely that the water so introduced was meant to fill the fosse to the
-north of the station, and thus to give the additional security of a wet
-ditch to a portion of the camp, which, though much exposed, possessed no
-natural strength of situation.[80] Crossing the station diagonally from
-below the eastern gateway to the north-west angle, a sewer or drain was
-found, of considerable dimensions. My informant crept along it for about
-one hundred yards. The bottom of it was filled with hardened mud,
-imbedded in which, were found a lamp and many bone pins, such as those
-with which the Romans fastened their woollen garments.
-
-The most interesting discovery made on this occasion, however, was a
-suite of apartments, which have been usually supposed to be ‘the Baths.’
-The building was one hundred and thirty-two feet in length, and
-contained not fewer than eleven rooms. The first of these was
-forty-three feet long, and twenty wide, and was the place, it has been
-conjectured, ‘where the bathers waited, and employed themselves in
-walking and talking, till their turn came to bathe.’ The others beyond
-are supposed to have been set apart for the purposes of undressing,
-taking the cold, the tepid, and the hot-bath, sweating, anointing, and
-robing. If the Roman prefects allowed the most important buildings of
-their frontier camps to be devoted to the enjoyment of the bath in all
-its elaborate details, they were more indulgent than some modern
-generals would be. That one or two of the smaller rooms have been
-devoted to ablution is not unlikely, this range of buildings having
-contained two carefully constructed cisterns which may have been used as
-baths. Several of the rooms had hanging floors, with flues beneath;
-pipes of burnt clay, fixed to the walls by T-headed holdfasts,
-communicated with the flues below, and conveyed the hot air up the sides
-of the apartments. But no provision for heating large quantities of
-water was discovered, such as we might have expected to find, if the
-whole building had been used for bathing.
-
-The whole of this interesting structure was removed as the process of
-exhumation proceeded. Our only consolation is, that a minute and able
-description of it has been left us by Mr. Hodgson.
-
-[Illustration: The Works near Carr-hill]
-
-Several inscribed and sculptured stones have been discovered here.
-Camden, in 1600, found a monumental slab, erected to the memory of a
-soldier of the Ala Sabiniana; the regiment which the Notitia represents
-as being quartered at HUNNUM. A stone, bearing the inscription, LEG. II.
-AVG. F., _Legio secunda Augusta fecit_, is at Alnwick castle, and
-belongs, I think, to this station. Wallis says 'as some labourers were
-turning up the foundations here, for the sake of the stones to mend the
-road, they met with a centurial stone with the above inscription, within
-a civic garland, the crest of the imperial eagle at each end, and that
-it was taken into the custody of Sir Edward Blackett. The one here
-shewn, though not a centurial stone, must be the one in question.[81] It
-is one of the most elegantly carved stones that have been found upon the
-line, and closely resembles the style of those erected by the same
-legion in the Barrier of the Upper Isthmus. The ornament in the upper
-margin, and at the sides, has probably formed the type of one that
-prevailed in the Transition Norman and Early English styles.
-
-Several busts of emperors and empresses, preserved about the house and
-grounds of Matfen, shew the attention which the ancient inhabitants of
-HUNNUM have paid to the decoration of the camp.
-
-[Illustration: Slab—Fulgur Divom]
-
-A little to the west of the station, not far from the gateway, was
-recently found the slab which is here figured. Although the inscription
-is not deeply cut, it is very legible, and doubtless means—The lightning
-of the gods. When any spot was struck with lightning, it was immediately
-deemed sacred, and venerated as such by the Romans, being surrounded by
-a breastwork of masonry, similar to that put round the mouth of a well.
-Conscious guilt makes cowards of the most dauntless warriors! Perhaps
-some member of the Sabinian ala, hastening for shelter, and beseeching
-meanwhile the protection of Jupiter Tonans, was here arrested on life’s
-journey, and summoned to his great account.
-
-Among the minor antiquities found at this station was a particularly
-massive finger ring of pure gold, set with an artificial stone, on which
-a full-length figure was engraved. It was stolen from lady Blackett, to
-whom it belonged, together with the rest of her jewellery.
-
-An intelligent observer informs me, that an ancient road of Roman
-construction went direct north from HUNNUM. It, no doubt, soon joined
-the eastern branch of the Watling-street which Horsley lays down, part
-of whose course is represented in the map accompanying this volume.
-
-[Sidenote: HALTON-CHESTERS.]
-
-Halton-castle is to the south of the station. It is entirely composed of
-stones taken from the Roman Wall. In the farm-buildings attached to it,
-are some Roman mouldings, and a weathered figure of primeval aspect.
-
-No probable etymological account of the word HUNNUM has yet been
-offered. If the word Halton can be supposed to have any affinity with
-HUNNUM, besides the initial breathing, this is one of the few instances
-in which there is any resemblance between the ancient and modern name of
-the stations.
-
-
-Leaving HUNNUM, we soon reach Stagshawbank-gate, where the ancient
-Watling-street crosses the road at right-angles. This Roman Way was
-probably first constructed by Agricola, as a means of keeping up a
-communication with the garrisons in South Britain, while he was forcing
-his way into Scotland. A fort formerly stood here to guard the passage
-through the Wall; no trace of it now remains.
-
-[Sidenote: VALLUM NEAR ST. OSWALD’S.]
-
-The earth-works between this point and the crown of the hill descending
-to the North Tyne are remarkably perfect. The description which Hutton
-gives of them happily holds good at the present moment—
-
- I now travel over a large common, still upon the Wall, with its trench
- nearly complete. But what was my surprise when I beheld, thirty yards
- on my left, the united works of Agricola and Hadrian, almost perfect!
- I climbed over a stone wall to examine the wonder; measured the whole
- in every direction; surveyed them with surprise, with delight; was
- fascinated, and unable to proceed; forgot I was upon a wild common, a
- stranger, and the evening approaching. I had the grandest works under
- my eye of the greatest men of the age in which they lived, and of the
- most eminent nation then existing; all of which had suffered but
- little during the long course of sixteen hundred years. Even hunger
- and fatigue were lost in the grandeur before me. If a man writes a
- book upon a turnpike road, he cannot be expected to move quick; but,
- lost in astonishment, I was not able to move at all.
-
-The first time I visited the spot, this passage, through which there
-runs so fine a vein of youthful enthusiasm, was fresh in my
-recollection. The shades of evening were beginning to gather round me,
-and the blackness of the furze which covered the ground, gave additional
-solemnity to the scene. I looked for the venerable old man, as if
-expecting still to find him fixed in his enthusiastic trance; but he was
-not there. After all, he had moved on; and a few years more removed him
-from this scene, to sleep in the church-yard under a humbler and less
-durable mound than his favourite general and emperor had here raised!
-
-The section given in page 52, exhibits the state of the works at this
-place. The north fosse is very boldly developed between the sixteenth
-and eighteenth milestone: the whole of its contents lie strewed on its
-outer margin. Near the eighteenth milestone, on the left of the road, is
-a mound, which I take to be the remains of a mile-castle. In one part
-near here, the Wall, as seen in the road, measures ten feet wide, but it
-speedily becomes narrower.
-
-[Sidenote: ST. OSWALD’S CHAPEL.]
-
-Where the ground begins to dip strongly to the North Tyne, St. Oswald’s
-chapel stands. On the north side of the road, is a field called
-Mould’s-close, in which a number of bones and implements of war have
-from time to time been turned up, and which is supposed to be the site
-of a battle. The tradition runs, that from the fight which was won here,
-England dates her advancing greatness, and that, from the fatal results
-of a conflict to be lost on the same ground, she will date her decline.
-[Sidenote: BATTLE OF HEAVEN-FIELD.]Hodgson says, ‘Was this the site of
-part of the battle of Heaven-field, which Bede says was fought just
-north of the Roman Wall, and in memory of which the chapel of St. Oswald
-was built?’ That it was, the narrative of the venerable historian will
-probably shew—
-
- The place is shewn to this day, and held in much veneration, where
- Oswald (A.D. 635), being about to engage (with the ferocious British
- king Cadwalla), erected the sign of the holy cross, and on his knees
- prayed to God that he would assist his worshippers in their great
- distress. It is further reported, that the cross being made in haste,
- and the hole dug in which it was to be fixed, the king himself, full
- of faith, laid hold of it, and held it with both his hands, till it
- was set fast by throwing in the earth; and this done, raising his
- voice, he cried to his army, ‘Let us all kneel, and jointly beseech
- the true and living God Almighty, in his mercy, to defend us from the
- haughty and fierce enemy; for He knows that we have undertaken a just
- war for the safety of our nation.’ All did as he had commanded, and
- accordingly advancing towards the enemy with the first dawn of day,
- they obtained the victory, as their faith deserved. In that place of
- prayer very many miraculous cures are known to have been performed, as
- a token and memorial of the king’s faith; for even to this day, many
- are wont to cut off small chips of the wood of the holy cross, which
- being put into water, men or cattle drinking of, or sprinkled with
- that water, are immediately restored to health. The place in the
- English tongue is called Hefenfeld, or the Heavenly Field.... The same
- place is near the Wall with which the Romans formerly enclosed the
- island from sea to sea, to restrain the fury of the barbarous nations,
- as has been said before. Hither, also, the brothers of the church of
- Hagulstad (Hexham), which is not far from thence (it is in the valley
- directly below), repair yearly on the day before that on which king
- Oswald was afterwards slain, to watch there for the health of his
- soul, and having sung many psalms, to offer for him in the morning the
- sacrifice of the holy oblation. And since that good custom has spread,
- they have lately built and consecrated a church there, which has
- attached additional sanctity and honour to that place.[82]
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- THE WALL AT BRUNTON.
-]
-
-A little to the south of the road, at St. Oswald’s-hill-head, is
-Fallowfield-fell, where the Written-rock, of which an engraving is
-given, page 102, may yet be seen. The face of the rock occupied by the
-inscription is four feet long; the letters are distinct.[83] Continuing
-to descend the hill, we come to Plane-tree-field, where on the left of
-the road, a conspicuous piece of the Wall remains. It is about
-thirty-six yards long, and has, in some places, five courses of
-facing-stones entire; the grout of the interior which rises still
-higher, gives root to some fine old thorns. This sight may be rendered
-more interesting by the antiquary’s carrying his eye forward, and
-tracing the Wall in its onward course; in its modern representative, the
-turnpike road, it is seen, (having crossed the North Tyne, and passed
-the station of CILURNUM,) bounding up the opposite hill in its usual
-unflinching manner, and making for the wastes and mountains which it is
-speedily to traverse.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WALL AT BRUNTON.]
-
-In the grounds of Brunton, a little below this, a small piece of the
-Wall is to be seen in a state of very great perfection. It is seven feet
-high, and presents nine courses of facing-stones entire. The mortar of
-the five lower courses is good; the face of the south side is gone. The
-ditch also is here well developed. The opposite lithograph gives an
-accurate representation of what Hutton calls ‘this grand exhibition.’
-The altar which, at present, stands as it is placed in the drawing,
-formerly discharged the office of a gate-post at the entry of the yard
-of St. Oswald’s chapel.
-
-[Sidenote: BRIDGE OVER THE NORTH TYNE.]
-
-For some reason, which it is hard to divine, the turnpike road now
-recedes from the Wall, and crosses the river at Chollerford, nearly
-half-a-mile above the spot where the Roman bridge spanned it.
-
- _PLATE VI._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- REMAINS OF ROMAN BRIDGE
- OVER THE
- NORTH TYNE.
- _Reid Lith._
-]
-
- _PLATE VII._
-
-[Illustration: Miscellaneous Antiquities, Chesters, Cilurnum]
-
-The remains of this bridge may yet be seen when the water is low, and
-the surface smooth. There seem to have been three piers of considerable
-size and solidity, set diagonally to the stream. The stones composing
-them are large, regularly squared, and fastened with metallic
-cramps.[84] Luis-holes, indicating the mode in which they have been
-lowered into their bed, appear in several of them. The firmness with
-which these foundation courses still retain the position assigned to
-them by the soldiers of Hadrian is very remarkable; the rolling floods
-of sixteen hundred winters seem to have spent their rage upon them
-almost in vain. As the eastern side of the river is frequently
-overflowed, the Vallum is here obliterated, but probably both works
-approached the bridge in close companionship. On the western side,
-appearances still bear out Horsley’s statement, that the 'Wall falls
-upon the middle of the fort, and Hadrian’s Vallum, as usual, falls in
-with the south side of it.'
-
-A plan of CILURNUM, and adjoining works, as figured by Warburton, is
-given in Plate II. Probably, few who examine it attentively will
-question the justness of the conclusion to which he has arrived, that
-the Wall, Vallum, stations, castles, and turrets, ‘by their mutual
-relation to one another, must have been one entire, united defence, or
-fortification.’
-
-We are now arrived at the station called in the locality, Chesters, but
-by Horsley named, for the sake of distinction, Walwick-chesters. An
-attentive examination of it will well reward the antiquary.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CILURNUM.]
-
-CILURNUM.—This station has, as usual, the form of a parallelogram, the
-corners being slightly rounded off. It contains an area of fully six
-acres. In the latter part of the last century, when the mansion and
-estate of Chesters came into the possession of the family of Clayton,
-this area was covered with the ruins of buildings which had apparently
-stood in strait, narrow streets, and although the surface of the station
-has since been levelled and made smooth, in order to fit it for its use
-as part of the park, yet its ramparts and fosse, the Wall and Vallum as
-they approach and leave it, and the road leading to the river, may all
-be distinctly discerned; even the ruined dwellings of the interior area,
-as if dissatisfied with their lowly condition, struggle to rear
-themselves into notice. A portion of the Wall, near the north-west
-angle, has been freed from the encumbering soil; it is five feet thick,
-and exhibits four courses of masonry in excellent preservation.
-
-Hutchinson was struck with the linear character which the ruined streets
-of this fort had in his time, and was reminded, by their appearance, of
-the arrangements of the Polybian camp. This will be observed in a
-greater or less degree in all the stations, and there cannot be a doubt
-but that the dwellings were arranged in rows parallel to the four sides
-of the stations, and hence, intersecting each other at right angles. It
-was necessary that the Roman camp, whether of a temporary or permanent
-character, should be nearly uniform in its plan. If the troops rested
-but for a night, each man knew the part he had to fill in preparing the
-fortification, and could set about it at once; in the event of a sudden
-attack in the darkness of the night, each knew his position, though he
-may never have rested upon the spot before.
-
-Suburban buildings have occupied the space between the station and the
-river, and ruins more extensive than usual are spread over the ground to
-the south. There is no appearance of any habitations having been erected
-to the north of the Wall. Whenever the surface of the contiguous ground
-is broken, fragments of Samian ware and other marks of Roman occupation
-appear.
-
-[Sidenote: CHESTERS.]
-
-Two remains of great interest are found within the station. One of these
-is an underground vault near the middle. Its masonry is rough, and
-somewhat peculiar; the sides incline slightly inwards, but the roof,
-instead of being uniformly vaulted, is formed of three ribs arched in
-the usual manner, and the intervals between them are in technical
-language—‘stepped over,’ that is, the stones of each course are made to
-project inwards a little, until, at length, one laid on the top
-completes the junction. The woodcut, which is here introduced, together
-with the following extract from Hodgson’s description of it, will give a
-tolerably correct idea of this curious structure.
-
-[Illustration: Vault at Cilurnum]
-
- This vault, when it was first found, was supposed to have been the
- Ærarium of the station. Between the joinings of the floor, which were
- of thin free-stone flags, were found several counterfeit denarii, both
- of copper and iron plated with silver. The approach to it was by four
- steps downwards, the lowest of which was a large centurial stone,
- which had borne an inscription, but nearly all of it had been
- purposely erased. On the outside of the threshold was found, in a
- sadly decayed state, its original door of wood, strongly sheathed with
- plates of iron, and the whole firmly rivetted together with large
- square nails. Within the door, which had opened inwards, the end wall
- was two feet thick, plastered and painted. Its internal area is ten
- feet by nine, and its height to the crown of the arch six feet four
- inches.[85]
-
-[Illustration: Ground-plan, Hypocaust, CILURNUM.]
-
-[Illustration: Hypocausts at Cilurnum]
-
-Some buildings situated near to the spot where the eastern gateway must
-be, and which have recently been freed from the earth and rubbish that
-have long enveloped them, are objects of still greater interest. Their
-general appearance, as seen from a slight elevation, is shewn in the
-adjoining wood-cut, while, for a more minute knowledge of their size and
-arrangements, reference may be made to the plan on the opposite page.
-Eight apartments have already been exposed, and a little more research
-would doubtless display others.
-
-[Sidenote: THE HYPOCAUSTS.]
-
-Descending a few steps (at L in the Plan), a street three feet wide at
-one extremity, and four at the other, is entered. Another, leading from
-it at right-angles, and which is paved with flag-stones, conducts to the
-grand entrance (D) of what appears to be the principal section of the
-building. The steps are very much worn down by the tread of feet, and
-even some of the stones, which have evidently been put in the place of
-others that have been too much abraded to be serviceable, exhibit
-partial wear. This saloon must have been a place of general
-concourse—can it have been the hall of justice, or the place where the
-commander of the station transacted the business of the district under
-his charge? The floor (E) is probably supported on pillars, and has been
-warmed by flues beneath; but this cannot be ascertained without injuring
-it. The upper covering is of flags, the fractured state of which induces
-the belief, that the walls of the surrounding building have been
-forcibly thrown down upon them. The northern enemies of Rome, knowing
-the importance of these stations, would not be slow in involving them in
-entire ruin, when permitted, by the withdrawal of the troops, to do so
-without molestation. Passages diverge from this saloon, to the right and
-left, into other apartments. In the room on the left was found, in good
-preservation, a cistern or bath (C), lined with red cement. A breach had
-been made in the street wall of this chamber (at B), and in the rubbish
-which [Illustration: River-god] encumbered the gap, was found the statue
-of a river-god, of which a correct sketch is here given. It is probably
-intended to represent the genius of the neighbouring river—the North
-Tyne. Although executed in coarse sand-stone, it is not without
-considerable gracefulness of attitude and proportion. It is preserved in
-the mansion at Chesters. Of the present state of the apartments beyond,
-the wood-cut in the previous page, and the lithograph here introduced,
-will give an accurate conception. The floors have been supported upon
-pillars, some of them being of stone, others of square flat bricks. The
-stone pillars are, for the most part, fragments of columns and balusters
-which have been used in a prior structure.[86] The student of mediæval
-architecture will probably recognise in some of them types of the Saxon
-style. The dilapidated state of the floor of this apartment allows of an
-easy examination of its mode of construction. Flags, about two inches
-thick, rest upon the pillars; a layer of compost, five inches thick, and
-formed of lime, sand, gravel, and burned clay or pounded tile, succeeds,
-and above that, another covering of thin flag-stones.[87] This apartment
-has been provided with a semicircular recess at its eastern extremity
-(G), and, at the angle next the street (A), has been supported by a
-buttress. A similar alcoved recess existed on the western side of one of
-the principal rooms of the ‘baths’ at HUNNUM, and the same arrangement
-may yet be observed in the corresponding building at Lanchester. All of
-these buildings have been strengthened with buttresses, but it is only
-in these and analogous cases, that the use of the buttress is admitted
-among the erections of the Barrier; it never occurs in the great Wall or
-the curtain-walls of the stations. In the circular recess[Sidenote: THE
-HYPOCAUSTS.] of this apartment is an aperture (G), which probably has
-served to regulate the current of air circulating in the hypocausts. The
-furnace which warmed the suite of apartments was situated near the
-south-east extremity of the building (at F); the pillars near the fire
-having been much acted upon by the heat, the whole of this part of the
-floor was reduced, on exposure to the frosts of winter, to the confused
-heap represented in the drawing. The soot in the flues was found as
-fresh as if it had been produced by fires lighted the day before.[88]
-The walls of this apartment were coated with plaster, and coloured dark
-red; exposure to the weather soon stripped them of this covering. An
-arched passage curiously turned with Roman tile took the heated air from
-the furnace through the party-wall (at X) into the chamber to the west
-of it. The rooms to the westward of the intersecting street (HD), seem
-to form an independent building, and have less of the aspect of a place
-of public concourse than the other portions. They may have been the
-private residence of the commander of the station. They, too, are heated
-by hypocausts.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- HYPOCAUST AT CHESTERS, (CILURNUM)
- Printed by W. Monkhouse, York
-]
-
-[Sidenote: CILURNUM.]
-
-In urging the conviction, that the hanging floors of these Roman
-buildings were meant to produce a comfortable warmth, rather than to
-generate steam, by having water sprinkled upon them, attention may be
-drawn to the thickness of their substance. At present, the floor of the
-principal apartment is nine inches thick, and when its upper surface was
-overlaid, as it no doubt was, with a tasteful concrete or mosaic
-pavement, it would be an inch or two more. It would require a very
-powerful furnace to raise this mass of matter to a considerable
-temperature. On the other hand, if the production of a genial and
-uniform warmth were the object in view, no contrivance could be more
-suitable. The heated air from a small furnace permeating the underground
-flues and the walls of a suite of apartments, and not passing off until,
-in its lengthened passage, it had given out the larger part of the
-warmth it had derived, would, in the lapse of some hours, give to the
-whole building a comfortable temperature, which it would not readily
-lose. Any inattention to the furnace, either by causing it to burn too
-fiercely or too feebly, would not be felt. The thickness of the floors
-would prevent the air from being scorched, and producing that
-disagreeable sensation which is experienced in rooms that are heated by
-the stoves in common use. It is not improbable that we may return to
-this method of warming our churches and public halls, even if we do not
-adopt it in our private buildings.[89]
-
-[Sidenote: METHOD OF WARMING BUILDINGS.]
-
-The door-ways of some of these apartments have been provided with double
-doors, probably for more effectually maintaining the warmth of the room.
-
-The masonry of those portions of the walls which are standing, is in an
-excellent state of preservation. In the angle near the buttress (A), the
-action of the trowel in giving the finishing touch to the pointing may
-be perceived. The walls rest upon two strong basement courses, the angle
-of the uppermost being bevelled off with a neat moulding.
-
-Some of the quoins of the door-ways consist of very large stones; one is
-six feet long, and is probably a ton in weight. This proves that it was
-not from lack of mechanical means that the interior buildings and walls
-of the stations were composed of small stones. More than one of the
-thresholds have a groove very roughly cut in them, apparently to allow
-of the egress of water. This has probably been done after the departure
-of the Romans and the general demolition of the buildings, by some
-houseless wanderers, who, having ‘camped’ in the ruin, were incommoded
-by the lodgement of rain on the floor.
-
-The hydraulic properties of the concrete used in the floors of Roman
-hypocausts, has, I believe, escaped the notice of previous writers, and
-is the only other point which need longer detain us in this interesting
-building. My attention was drawn to this subject by my brother, Mr.
-George Barclay Bruce, Member of the Institution of Civil Engineers, in
-the following communication:—
-
- In many places on the line of the Wall, the mortar has had mixed with
- it broken tiles or burned clay, to assist it in resisting the moisture
- of the atmosphere.
-
- The concrete at Chesters placed between the slabs of the bath-room,
- has a very large proportion of this burned clay, and would thus be
- better suited to resist the action of heat below and water above than
- purer lime.
-
- A portion of this concrete was taken, by way of experiment, and burned
- in a crucible, as though it had been a piece of limestone; it was then
- ground fine, and mixed with a proper quantity of water; after being
- allowed to dry for three or four hours, it was immersed in water,
- where it set in the same manner as common mortar does in the open air,
- clearly proving its hydraulic properties. The same experiment was
- tried with the ordinary mortar of the Wall, but without the same
- result, there not being a sufficiently large quantity of burned clay
- to enable it to stand so severe a test. In the case of the concrete,
- it did not set so readily as what is called Roman cement, but
- sufficiently so to prove that it is a strong hydraulic mortar, made by
- the mixture of burned clay with common lime.
-
-[Sidenote: THE CEMETERY.]
-
-Bidding farewell to these interesting structures, we may now bend our
-steps a short way down the river, on a visit to the cypress-grove—the
-burial ground of the station. This, which in Horsley’s days formed a
-separate field called the Ox-close, is now included in the park of the
-domain. Never was spot more appropriately chosen. The river here
-descends with more than usual rapidity over its stony bed, and bending
-at the same time to the left, exhibits to the eye the lengthened vista
-of its well-wooded banks. No earthly music could better soothe the
-chafed affections of the hopeless heathen mourner than the murmur of the
-stream which is ceaselessly heard in this secluded nook. From this spot
-have been procured several sepulchral slabs which will presently afford
-us instruction; meantime, one is given on the next page whose lesson is
-of a negative character. The blank memorial shews how vain are the
-efforts which even affection makes to render buoyant on the wave of time
-the memory of those departed. Our very monuments need memorials. But,
-passing this, the character of the carving betokens a poor state of the
-arts, and fixes its date in the lowest times of the empire: in this we
-have a proof of the long-continued occupation of the station. The fate
-of the stone has been singular. When Horsley saw it, the inscription was
-legible; but having since been used as the door-stone of the cow-house
-at Walwick Grange, the letters had, previous to its removal to
-Alnwick-castle (its present resting place), been entirely obliterated.
-
-[Illustration: Funereal Slab, Cilurnum]
-
-Between the station and the cemetery is a well enclosed with Roman
-masonry; it is now in a great measure filled up.
-
-[Illustration: Funereal Slab of Horse Soldier, Cilurnum]
-
-[Sidenote: ITS NAME ASCERTAINED.]
-
-The station of CILURNUM, which is the sixth on the line of the Wall, was
-garrisoned by the second wing of the Astures, (a regiment of Spanish
-cavalry) commanded by a prefect. This fact has gradually developed
-itself to the antiquary. Camden thought it probable. Horsley concurred
-in the opinion, and, in the absence of better evidence, sagaciously
-referred to the tombstone of which a drawing is here presented, in proof
-of its having been occupied by a horse regiment. ‘That some horse,’ says
-he, 'kept garrison here in the lower empire, seems to be probable from
-the inscription and sculpture yet remaining at Walwick-grange.'[90] ‘The
-letters D. M.,’ he remarks in another place, ‘prove this to be a
-sepulchral monument, and the figure shews that the deceased belonged to
-the horse, and therefore probably was one of the _Ala secunda Astorum_,
-which in the lower empire kept garrison at CILURNUM, as the Notitia
-informs us.’
-
-[Illustration: Slab–Ala II. Asturum]
-
-More decisive evidence has since been procured. The slab figured on page
-61, is part of it. A still more satisfactory document of stone was
-discovered at Chesters several years ago, where it is still preserved:
-the wood-cut accurately portrays it.
-
- IMP[ERATORI] CAES[ARI] _MARCO_ AVREL[IO]
- AUG[VSTO] . . . . . . . . . . . . _PONTIFICI MAXIMO_
- TRIB[VNITIA] P[OTESTATE] CO[N]S[VLI] _IV_ P[ATRI] P[ATRIÆ] DIV[I]
- _ANTONINI FILIO_
- DIVI SEVER[I] NEP[OTI]
- CAESAR[I] IMPER[ATORI] . . . . . . . . . . . _DUPLARES_
- ALÆ II ASTVRV[M] _TEMPLUM_ VETVSTAT[E] _CONLAPSUM RESTITU_-
- ERVNT PER MARIUM VALER[IANUM] _LEGATUM AUGUSTALEM PROPRÆTOREM_
- INSTANTE SEPTIMIO NILO PRÆ[FECTO]
- DEDICATVM III KAL[ENDAS] NOVEM[BRIS] GRATO ET SELE[VCO]
- _CONSULIBUS_.[91]
-
- To the emperor Marcus Aurelius
- Augustus . . . . . . . . . . . Pontifex Maximus,
- With tribunitian power, fourth time Consul, Father of his Country, of
- divine Antoninus the son,
- Of the deified Severus the grandson,
- To Cæsar our emperor . . . . . . . . the duplares[92]
- Of the second wing of Astures, this temple, through age dilapidated, re-
- stored by command of Marius Valerianus, Imperial Legate and Proprætor,
- Under the superintendence of Septimius Nilus, Prefect.
- Dedicated Oct. 30th, in the consulate of Gratus and Seleucus.
-
-Hutton, who has done such good service to the Wall, under-rated the
-value of inscriptions. ‘When the antiquary,’ says he, 'has laboured
-through a parcel of miserable letters, what is he the wiser?'—Let this
-fractured and defaced stone answer the question.[93] 1. This dedication
-was made by soldiers of the second wing of the Astures;—we thus learn
-the name of the people who garrisoned the fort, and by a reference to
-the Notitia, ascertain with certainty that this was[Sidenote: CILURNUM.]
-CILURNUM. 2. We acquire the fact, that a temple, which through age had
-become dilapidated, was restored;—learning thereby, not only the
-attention which the Romans paid to what they conceived to be religious
-duties, but their long occupation of this spot. It has been already
-observed, that some of the pillars of the hypocaust have been portions
-of a prior building;—the ruin and inscription thus corroborate each
-other. 3. The date of the dedication is given; the third of the calends
-of November falls upon the thirtieth of October, and the year in which
-Gratus and Seleucus were consuls corresponds to A.D. 221;—the data on
-which antiquaries found their conclusions, are not always so vague as
-some imagine. 4. Even the erasures are instructive. By a reference to
-the date, we find that Heliogabalus was reigning at the time of the
-dedication of the temple; we find that what remain of the names and
-titles on the stone apply to him; he, consequently, is the emperor
-referred to. The year following he was slain by his own soldiers, his
-body dragged through the streets and cast into the Tiber. The soldiers
-in Britain seem to have sympathized with their companions at Rome and to
-have erased the name of the fallen emperor from the dedicatory slab.
-Human nature is the same in every age. How often have we, in modern
-times, seen a name cast out with loathing which yesterday received the
-incense of a world’s flattery!
-
-The above inscription gives us the station of the _Ala secunda Asturum_,
-in the reign of Heliogabalus, A.D. 221. The Notitia Imperii gives us its
-station in the reign of Theodosius the younger, ‘_ultra tempus Arcadii
-et Honorii_,’ A.D. 430, and we find at both periods the same force in
-the same station, which corresponds with the understood practice of the
-Roman army with regard to the permanency of the quarters of its
-auxiliary forces. With reference to the difference between the spelling
-of the inscription and the Notitia, ‘Asturum’ and ‘Astorum,’ it may be
-observed that as the Notitia Imperii was preserved for a thousand years
-in manuscript before the art of printing came to its rescue, it is more
-likely that the error should be in the book, than on the stone.
-
-The ancient name of the station having been ascertained, the etymology
-of it may be inquired into. Whitaker says it means a creek. An authority
-acquainted with the Gaelic language suggests the following derivation;
-_caol_, narrow, probably pronounced by the Romans _kil_, and _doir_,
-water (in composition _dhoir_, the dh not sounded); so that _caol-oir_
-is narrow stream; the _um_ is a usual Latin affix. Of course, this
-branch of the Tyne is narrow in comparison with the united floods. The
-word may have had an Italian origin; the Latin _celer_, swift, has some
-resemblance to it, and the river, when swollen by floods, very speedily
-discharges its superfluous water. Whatever be the origin of the word,
-the names of the neighbouring places, Chollerton and Chollerford, have
-had a similar derivation.
-
-[Sidenote: ROMAN SCULPTURES.]
-
-[Illustration: Statue of Cybele, Cilurnum]
-
-The miscellaneous antiquities which have been found here, and are still
-preserved upon the spot, are of a very interesting character. Chief
-among them is a broken statue, which is here represented.
-
-The fragment, consisting of a fine-grained sandstone, is six feet two
-inches long. Statues of so large a size are of very rare occurrence in
-Roman camps in Britain. It is generally supposed to have been meant for
-Cybele, the mother of the gods. The gracefulness of the design, and the
-excellence of the execution, show us that the state of the arts in Roman
-Britain was not so low as is sometimes supposed. The arrangement of the
-drapery, and the ornament placed upon its margins, are suggestive of the
-mode in which these details were managed in the statues of the early
-ecclesiastical architects. The ancient builders professedly followed the
-Roman modes.
-
-[Illustration: Group of Carved Stones, Cilurnum]
-
-The fine Corinthian capital, which is here shewn, enables us to judge of
-the beauty of some of the buildings which adorned the ancient CILURNUM.
-In the drawing, it rests upon one of the foundation stones of the
-bridge; on the right-hand side of the group are two centurial stones,
-inscribed—
-
- C[ENTVRIA] VAL[ERII]
- MAXI[MI]
- [CENTVRIA] RVFI SABI
- NI
-
- The century (or company) of Valerius
- Maximus
- The century of Rufus Sabi-
- nus.
-
-On the top of these is a pipe of red earthenware.
-
- _PLATE VIII_
-
-[Illustration: Miscellaneous Antiquities, Cilurnum]
-
- _PLATE IX_
-
-[Illustration: Samian Ware]
-
-[Sidenote: MISCELLANEOUS ANTIQUITIES.]
-
-Preserved in the collection here, is a tile of the usual Roman
-fabrication, on which are impressed the foot-marks of a dog, seemingly
-of the terrier species. The animal must have run over it while the clay
-was in a soft state. Plate VIII. fig. 4.
-
-In making the excavations at the hypocausts, many coins of silver and
-brass were found. They extend from the reign of Hadrian to that of
-Gratian; those of Constantine and his immediate successors prevail. A
-massive silver signet ring, representing, on a cornelian stone, a cock
-pecking at an an ear of corn, was found in one of the rooms. As is
-uniformly the case, numerous fragments of the different kinds of pottery
-used by the Romans were turned up; some of the fragments of vessels of
-Samian ware are figured on Plate IX. A key, fig. 4. an iron implement
-with springs on each side of it, fig. 1. and a spear head fig. 3. drawn
-on Plate X., were found here. Some soles of sandals, similar in
-character to those which will afterwards be described, several glass
-beads of curious fabrication, and broken pieces of glass vessels, were
-picked up. A piece of _cut_ glass procured here is shewn in Plate VII.
-fig. 10. One of the most curious relics obtained from this treasury of
-Roman effects was the tooth of a bear; it is of a large size, and is
-pierced with two holes to enable its possessor to suspend it by a
-string, and wear it as a trophy or a charm on his person. It is figured
-of the full size in Plate VII. Bears, as well as wolves, prowled in the
-forests of ancient Britain, and no doubt the formidable animal which
-yielded this tusk, cost its captor a severe struggle.
-
-Not the least interesting of the circumstances of a place of very early
-occupation, are the traditions of the ‘ancients’ respecting it.
-Notwithstanding their rudeness, some latent truth may generally be
-educed from them; and they always manifest the modes of thought that
-prevailed in former times. Sixty years ago the traditions of the Wall
-might easily have been gathered, but now the old men have nearly
-forgotten the tales with which their ‘fore-elders’ used to entertain
-them on a winter’s evening. The products of the press have nearly
-superseded this unlettered lore. A few fragments relative to CILURNUM
-have, however, been supplied to me. A belief used to prevail, that there
-existed a subterranean stable under the camp capable of containing five
-hundred horse. It was, moreover, currently related, that beneath the
-river a tunnel was formed, which led to the opposite side. There is a
-pool in the vicinity of the station, on its western side, called the
-Ingle-pool, and which, until partially filled up a few years ago, was
-very deep; the peasantry believed, that it derived its supplies by an
-underground canal from the North Tyne, at Nunwick-mill, between three
-and four miles up the river.
-
- _PLATE X._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- J. STOREY DEL. ET LITH. PRINTED BY AND^W. REID.
- Roman Spears, etc.
-]
-
-In these traditions we may perhaps recognise the facts, that a regiment
-of horse garrisoned the station; that the Romans carefully maintained
-the means of intercourse with both sides of the river; and that, if in
-this instance they did not, which is by no means certain, in others they
-undoubtedly did bring water from great distances, either for the purpose
-of sustenance, or to strengthen their position.
-
-We must now take leave of CILURNUM. Whatever may be the views of the
-reader, the visitor will do so with regret. As Hodgson well remarks,
-‘The Astures, in exchanging the sunny valleys of Spain for the banks of
-the tawny Tyne, might find the climate in their new situation worse, but
-a lovelier spot than CILURNUM all the Asturias could not give them.’
-During many days spent in the prosecution of my inquiries here—the
-beauty of the landscape, the instructive nature of the ruins, and the
-pleasant intercourse which I was privileged to enjoy with the hospitable
-family at the hall, combined to make a deep impression upon my mind.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CHESTERS.]
-
-Again we bend our steps westward. Behind the garden wall at Chesters
-stands a fragment of the Wall. The north fosse is filled with water.
-Ascending the hill which leads to Walwick, the earth works are seen on
-the left hand. When near the top of it, our out-door antiquary, while he
-pauses for breath, will do well to look back, and contemplate the scene
-he is leaving. The lines of the Barrier are seen boldly descending the
-well-wooded and fertile banks on the east side of the river. Warden-hill
-is to the south, and will attract attention by its elevation. Its summit
-is seen still to bear marks of having been occupied by the aborigines of
-Britain. Whilst the works of the Barrier were going on, they may have
-maintained their position for a while, and, from behind their
-entrenchments, scowled upon the intruders who were soon to drive them to
-the remoter region of the Cheviots. After watering both sides[Sidenote:
-WARDEN-FELL.] of the tongue of land of which Warden-fell consists, the
-North and South Tyne meet, and their waters roll on in a united stream
-to the Emporium of the North. We can follow it with the eye for some
-distance, as it goes sparkling in the sunshine, spreading fertility and
-beauty on either hand.
-
- ... O ye dales
- Of Tyne and ye most ancient woodlands; where
- Oft as the giant flood obliquely strides,
- And his banks open, and his lawns extend,
- Stops short the pleased traveller to view,
- Presiding o’er the scene, some rustic tower,
- Founded by Norman or by Saxon hands.
-
-Nestled in the fairest part of the valley is the abbey church of Hexham;
-closely inspected, it is found to be a chaste specimen of the most
-simple and beautiful of our ecclesiastical styles—the early English,
-and, when viewed from a distance, as in this case, its venerable towers
-lend a quiet charm to the landscape.
-
-How different the scene which the Romans beheld! In their day, and for
-long afterwards, the painful cultivator of the soil knew not who should
-reap the harvest; those only, therefore, who had power to protect
-themselves would engage in the occupation. Now, the husbandman dreams
-not of a foreign foe, or of troops of lawless marauders; steadily he
-evokes the riches of the soil, and something like an Eden smiles!
-
-A strip of the Wall, though in a disordered state, and covered with
-brushwood, is in a field beyond Walwick; its fosse is finely developed.
-
-[Sidenote: TOWER-TAY.]
-
-Ascending the next hill, called Tower Tay, the earth-works are still
-very conspicuous. About half way up are the ruins of a tower, erected
-about a century ago, as an object in the landscape. It stands on the
-Wall, and has been entirely formed out of its stones. At the summit, the
-ditches of both Wall and Vallum are cut through the native rock, of
-which the hill consists, and are in excellent order. The Wall stands
-very near the edge of a scar, sufficiently elevated to have formed of
-itself a defence; it is remarkable that the Romans should have thought
-it necessary to draw a ditch on the north side of it at all.
-
-Looking forward from the top of this hill, we see, for a considerable
-distance, all the lines of the Barrier proceeding on their course;
-descending one hill and ascending the opposite, called the
-Limestone-bank, they keep perfectly parallel. It would have delighted
-Horsley’s heart to notice that the present road runs upon the north
-agger of the Vallum, maintaining, as he did, that this was the Military
-Way of Agricola.
-
-At a short distance, further in advance, the ruins of a mile-castle are
-seen on the right. The whole of the facing-stones are gone, as is
-usually the case, and the place where it stood is chiefly marked by the
-vacuity occasioned by their removal. This castellum measures, inside,
-fifty-four feet from east to west, and sixty-one from north to south; it
-has been protected by a fosse. A long range of the Wall is next seen in
-the Black-carts farm, in an encouraging state of preservation; it is
-between five and six feet high, and shews, in some places, seven courses
-of facing-stones.
-
-[Sidenote: TEPPER-MOOR.]
-
-On the summit of the next hill, many objects of great interest await us.
-The view from it is most extensive. To the north, a vast sweep of
-country meets the eye; a beautiful undulated valley occupies the
-foreground, behind it the hills rise boldly, and the lofty Cheviots
-bound the scene. Chipchase castle occupies a commanding position. The
-modern mansion of Nunwick, embowered in wood, selects the lower ground.
-Towards the west, the lofty crags traversed by the Wall come into view.
-
-In the corner of a field adjoining the road, are the remains of another
-mile-castle; it measures fifty-seven feet by fifty-four. Horsley says,
-it was detached about a yard from the Wall, the reason of which was not
-very obvious. A portion of the Roman Military Way may here be seen as it
-curves towards the gateway of the castellum, and again recedes from it.
-A good section of it is obtained at the margin of the places where its
-stones have been removed to form the stone dikes of the field.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Del. John Storey, Lith.
- THE WORKS, TEPPER MOOR.
-]
-
-The fosse of the Wall and Vallum at this point deserve attentive
-examination. In passing over the crown of the hill, they have been
-excavated with enormous labour out of the basalt of which the summit
-consists. The workmen, as if exhausted with the task of raising the
-splintered fragments, have left them lying on the sides of the moats. A
-mass on the outside of the north ditch, though now split by the action
-of the frost into three pieces, has evidently formed one block, and
-cannot weigh less than thirteen tons. It is not easy to conceive how
-they managed to quarry so tough a rock without the aid of gunpowder, or
-contrived to lift, with the machinery at their command, such huge
-blocks. No luis-holes appear in them.
-
-The lithograph presents a view of the giant works of the Vallum and
-fosse at this point. It is quite evident that here, at least, the north
-agger did not form the Military Way. There are several breaks and
-irregularities in both the mounds; the works have probably been left by
-the Romans in a rough, unfinished state.
-
-Between this spot and the craggy summit on which Sewingshields
-farm-house is perched, the ground is flat, and destitute of any decided
-descent to the north. On this account, and for mutual defence, the lines
-of the Barrier keep close together, so close, sometimes, as scarcely to
-leave room for the passage of the Military Way between them.
-
-
-[Sidenote: PROCOLITIA.]
-
-PROCOLITIA is the seventh stationary camp on the line of the Wall. It
-was garrisoned by the first Batavian cohort, which, with two others from
-the same country, and the two Tungrian cohorts, was with Agricola in his
-great battle with Galgacus in the Grampian Hills. That the ruined camp
-at Carrawburgh was the adopted home of this cohort, is proved by the
-altar engraved on page 62, and by [Illustration: Slab—Coh. I. Batavorum]
-the fractured slab now introduced,[94] and which was found here in the
-year 1838. On this mutilated stone, the words COH I BATAVORVM are quite
-distinct, and are of themselves sufficient, not only to fix the site of
-the ancient PROCOLITIA, but to corroborate the testimony of Tacitus, on
-the presence of Batavians in Britain during the period of Roman
-occupation. The line following may probably be read INST[ANT]E BVRRIO,
-and bears the name of the prefect under whose superintendence the
-building was erected, to which the slab referred. In the last line, the
-word CO[RNELIANO may be perceived. In 237, when Maximinus was emperor,
-Titius Perpetuus and Rusticus Cornelianus were consuls. That this is the
-date of the inscription is rendered likely from a fragment of this
-emperor’s name appearing in the beginning of it.
-
-Whitaker gives, as the meaning of the word PROCOLITIA, the ‘fortress in
-the woodlands.’ In the Gaelic tongue, _coille_ signifies a wood.
-
-There is little in this station to detain us. The course of its ramparts
-and moats can be easily traced, and the rich green sward of its area is
-seen to cover numerous irregular heaps of ruins; every building,
-however, is prostrate; scarcely one stone is left upon another. The Wall
-forms the northern boundary of the station; its eastern and western
-gateways are, as usual, opposite to each other, but strike the side
-walls between the upper end and the middle. The position of the southern
-gateway cannot be detected; in the present state of the ruins, there is
-no appearance of one. The southern corners are rounded off, but the side
-walls of the station, in joining the Murus on the north, seem to
-preserve their rectilinear course. Outside the western wall are the
-ruins of the suburbs. A natural valley, consisting at present of boggy
-ground, gives strength to the fortification on this side. Horsley saw a
-well in the slack, cased with Roman masonry; it is now removed.
-
-No modern habitation is on the ground or in its immediate vicinity to
-relieve the general desolation—
-
- ... here, as in the wild,
- The day is silent, dreary as the night;
- None stirring save the herdsman and his herd,
- ... or they that would explore,
- Discuss and learnedly.
-
-[Sidenote: CARRAWBURGH.]
-
-Passing onwards, we soon reach the farm-house of Carraw, formerly a
-rural retreat of the priors of Hexham. On the crown of the next
-elevation, the works are brought into close proximity, apparently for
-the purpose of avoiding an extensive bog on the north, and of
-maintaining possession of the point of the hill on the south. The
-earth-works are very boldly developed, but are in a ragged state. The
-contents of the north fosse are piled up high on its outer margin. The
-fosse of the Vallum is cut through free-stone rock; its southern agger
-is very elevated, and would present a bold and angry front to any
-intruder from the south.
-
-[Sidenote: THE GREAT MURAL RIDGE.]
-
-We must now, to adopt the language of Hutton, ‘quit the beautiful scenes
-of cultivation, and enter upon the rude of nature, and the wreck of
-antiquity.’ Four great mountain waves are before us, and seem to chase
-each other to the north, on which side their crests rise almost
-perpendicularly. To the highest of these, the second from the south, the
-Wall directs its course. It is a ridge of basalt, which crosses the
-island obliquely, from Cumberland to Holy Island. The Vallum here parts
-company with the Wall, and takes the ‘tail’ of the hill on the ‘crag’ of
-which the other runs. The accompanying drawing shews the nature of the
-country before us.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- APPROACH TO SEWINGSHIELDS.
- Printed by W. Monkhouse, York
-]
-
-Before approaching Sewingshields[95] farm-house, which is on the line of
-Wall, an experienced eye will detect the Roman Military Way. It runs at
-first nearly parallel with the Wall, at about thirty-six paces from it,
-but, in its subsequent course, recedes from the Barrier, or approaches
-it, according to the position of the mile-castles, and the nature of the
-ground. With but few interruptions, it may be traced by the appearance
-of its herbage, by its slightly elevated, rounded form, and by the
-occasional protrusion of the stones composing it, all the way from
-Sewingshields to Thirlwall.
-
-The north fosse, which we have had in view from the very commencement of
-our journey, accompanies the Wall for a short distance up the hill, as
-is seen in the lithograph, but when the ground becomes precipitous, it
-forsakes it until the high grounds are passed, only to appear when the
-Wall sinks into a gap or chasm between the crags.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WALL ON THE CRAGS.]
-
-A difficulty will here present itself to nearly every mind; why was the
-Wall drawn along the cliffs at all? Horsley cut the knot instead of
-untying it. ‘As such steep rocks,’ says he, ‘are a sufficient fence of
-themselves, I am inclined to think the Wall has not in those parts had
-either strength or thickness, equal to what it has had in other parts.’
-Present appearances give us no reason to suppose that the Wall on the
-crags was in any respect inferior to what it was in the low grounds. A
-different method of accounting for the circumstance has been forced upon
-my attention. It was my fortune to traverse the heights near
-Sewingshields late in December last year, when the wind blew a violent
-gale from the north, and the thermometer, even in the valley, was ten
-degrees below the freezing point. In order to maintain the ordinary
-temperature of the body, very active exertion was necessary, and to make
-any progress on my way, I was constrained to get under the lee of the
-hill. The conclusion was irresistible; if the Romans were to keep watch
-and ward here during the winter, a Wall was necessary, even though only
-for the sake of sheltering them from the blast. The habits of the enemy
-demanded continual vigilance; for, as Tacitus tells us, before the time
-of Agricola they usually repaired the losses they had sustained in
-summer by the success of their winter expeditions. The loftier the
-mountain peak, the more necessary, in this view of it, was the friendly
-shelter of the Wall to the shivering soldiers of southern Europe.
-
-[Sidenote: SEWINGSHIELDS.]
-
-The Wall in the neighbourhood of Sewingshields is not in good condition;
-its site is marked by the rubble which encumbers it, but the
-facing-stones are gone, having contributed to the erection of every
-building in the vicinity, from the time of Honorius to the present day.
-A considerable tract of it was removed lately. Thorough draining, the
-life of agriculture, is death to the Wall.
-
-The aspect of the country in the immediate vicinity of the heights of
-Sewingshields is dreary enough, but the elevation enables the eye to
-revel in the fertility and beauty of the distant landscape. Hexham is
-distinctly discernible from the farm-house. On the flats to the north of
-the crags, there formerly stood the border fortress, Sewingshields
-castle.[96] It was at one time the property of the late Ralph Spearman,
-esq., the Monkbarns of THE ANTIQUARY.
-
-[Sidenote: MURAL TRADITIONS.]
-
-A situation so remote from the crowded haunts of men is favourable to
-the preservation of legendary lore. It occurred to me that here, if
-anywhere, I might ascertain the kind of ideas which the rude forefathers
-of the mural region entertained respecting the Wall and its builders.
-Although on the Antonine Wall all tradition of the Romans has been lost,
-this has certainly not been the case here; the recollection of them is
-still distinctly preserved, and some stories of them are told, which,
-though in several respects resembling written history, are not derived
-from this source. For the following scraps of traditional information, I
-am chiefly indebted to the master of Grindon school, in the immediate
-neighbourhood of Sewingshields, who says he has often heard them
-repeated. Though he denominates them ‘absurd,’ the learned in mediæval
-legends will probably think them worth preserving.
-
- The Romans are said to have been remarkably lazy, so much so, that in
- the hot weather of summer, having almost nothing to do, they lay
- basking in the sun, on the south side of the Wall, almost in a state
- of torpor. The Scots were in the habit of watching their opportunity,
- and, throwing hooks, with lines attached to them, over the Wall,
- caught the poor Romans by their clothes or flesh, and by this means,
- dragging them to the other side, made them prisoners.
-
- An old man in this neighbourhood told me, that he had often heard
- people say, that the Romans had remarkably broad feet, with still
- broader shoes, and that, when it rained, they lay on their backs, and
- holding up their feet in a perpendicular direction, protected, by this
- means, their persons from the weather.—This legend, under various
- modifications, seems to have been widely diffused in the middle ages.
- Sir John Maundevile, describing ‘Ethiope,’ says—‘In that contree, ben
- folk that han but o foot; and thei gon so fast, that it is marvaylle;
- and the foot is so large, that it schadewethe all the body azen the
- sonne, whan they wole lye and reste hem.’ Precisely similar to this is
- Pliny’s account—'Item hominum genus, qui Monoscelli vocarentur,
- singulis cruribus, miræ pernicitatis ad saltum: eosdemque Sciopodas
- vocari, quod in majori æstu, humi jacentes resupini, umbra se pedum
- protegant.'[97]
-
- It is the tradition of the country that all the stones of the Wall
- were handed from one man to another by a set of labourers stationed in
- a line from the quarry to the place where they were required. Many
- will tell you, 'I have heard my mother say, that the Wall was built in
- a single night, and that no one was observed to be engaged upon it,
- save an old woman with an apron full of stones.'—This, however, is a
- tradition of almost universal application.
-
- The people say that the Wall was hollow, or, as they express it, had a
- flue running the whole length of it, through which the sentinels
- communicated intelligence by a speaking trumpet.
-
- Some of the people of this neighbourhood tell me that the Britons,
- tired, at length, of Roman oppression, rose in a body, and drove the
- garrison, with considerable slaughter, from all their stations. The
- Romans, when making their way to the sea to look for ships to carry
- them home, were met by a seer, who told them that if they returned
- home they would all be drowned; and if they went back to their old
- stations they would all be slain. This prophecy disconcerted them
- greatly, and they were at their wits’ end; however, after long
- consultation, they resolved to escape both calamities by marching
- direct to Wales. This they did, and there the pure, unadulterated
- Roman breed is to be found to this day.—Can this story refer to the
- passage of the second legion, at an early period, to Caerleon?
-
-[Sidenote: LEGENDS OF KING ARTHUR.]
-
-We next pass on to some tales, which, though not connected with the
-Wall, belong, as Hodgson remarks, to times nearer the Roman than these
-degenerate days. They chiefly relate to king Arthur. Sir William Betham
-observes that this monarch’s name is more celebrated in Scotland than in
-Wales, which was the chief resort of the conquered Britons, and is
-disposed to think, that this favourite hero of romance was not a
-Romanized Briton, but an invading Pictish king. This idea would account
-for the frequent reference to his name in the region of the Wall.
-
- Immemorial tradition has asserted, that king Arthur, his queen
- Guenever, his court of lords and ladies, and his hounds, were
- enchanted in some cave of the crags, or in a hall below the castle of
- Sewingshields, and were to continue entranced there till some one
- should first blow a bugle horn that lay on a table near the entrance
- of the hall, and then with ‘the sword of the stone’ cut a garter also
- placed there beside it. But none had ever heard where the entrance to
- this enchanted hall was, till the farmer at Sewingshields, about fifty
- years since, was sitting upon the ruins of the castle, and his clew
- fell, and ran downwards through a rush of briars and nettles, as he
- supposed, into a deep subterranean passage. Firm in the faith that the
- entrance into king Arthur’s hall was now discovered, he cleared the
- briary portal of its weeds and rubbish, and entering a vaulted
- passage, followed, in his darkling way, the thread of his clew. The
- floor was infested with toads and lizards; and the dark wings of bats,
- disturbed by his unhallowed intrusion, flitted fearfully around him.
- At length, his sinking courage was strengthened by a dim, distant
- light, which, as he advanced, grew gradually brighter, till, all at
- once, he entered a vast and vaulted hall, in the centre of which, a
- fire without fuel, from a broad crevice in the floor, blazed with a
- high and lambent flame, that shewed all the carved walls and fretted
- roof, and the monarch and his queen, reposing around in a theatre of
- thrones and costly couches. On the floor, beyond the fire, lay the
- faithful and deep-toned pack of thirty couple of hounds; and on a
- table before it, the spell-dissolving horn, sword, and garter. The
- shepherd reverently, but firmly, grasped the sword, and as he drew it
- leisurely from its rusty scabbard, the eyes of the monarch, and of his
- courtiers began to open, and they rose till they sat upright. He cut
- the garter; and as the sword was being slowly sheathed, the spell
- assumed its ancient power, and they all gradually sunk to rest; but
- not before the monarch had lifted up his eyes and hands, and
- exclaimed:
-
- O woe betide that evil day
- On which this witless wight was born,
- Who drew the sword—the garter cut,
- But never blew the bugle-horn.
-
- Terror brought on loss of memory, and the shepherd was unable to give
- any correct account of his adventure, or to find again the entrance to
- the enchanted hall.[98]
-
- To the north of Sewingshields, two strata of sandstone crop out to the
- day; the highest points of each ledge are called the King and
- Queen’s-crag, from the following legend. King Arthur, seated on the
- farthest rock, was talking with his queen, who, meanwhile, was engaged
- in arranging her ‘back hair.’ Some expression of the queen’s having
- offended his majesty, he seized a rock which lay near him, and, with
- an exertion of strength for which the Picts were proverbial, threw it
- at her, a distance of about a quarter of a mile! The queen, with great
- dexterity, caught it upon her comb, and thus warded off the blow; the
- stone fell between them, where it lies to this day, with the marks of
- the comb upon it, to attest the truth of the story. It probably weighs
- about twenty tons!
-
- A few miles to the north of Sewingshields stands an upright stone,
- which bears the name of Cumming’s cross. Cumming, a northern
- chieftain, having paid, one day, a visit to king Arthur at his castle
- near Sewingshields, was kindly received by the king, and was, as a
- token of lasting friendship, presented by him with a gold cup. The
- king’s sons coming in, shortly after Cumming had left the castle, and
- being informed of what their father had done, immediately set out in
- pursuit of him. They overtook him, and slew him at this place, which
- has borne the name of Cumming’s cross ever since.
-
- King Arthur’s chair used to be pointed out in this vicinity. It was a
- column of basalt, fifty feet high, slightly detached from the rest of
- the cliff. The top of it had something of the appearance of a seat. It
- was thrown down, several years ago, by a party of idle young men, who
- were at great pains to effect their foolish purpose.
-
-[Sidenote: SEWINGSHIELDS CRAGS.]
-
-We now return to our more immediate object, the examination of the Wall.
-
-Soon after leaving Sewingshields, a narrow chasm in the rocks, slightly
-aided by art, called the Catgate, admits of an awkward descent to the
-plain below. Here, says Hutton, the Scots bored under the Wall, so as to
-admit the body of a man. Whether the Romans or the Scots made this
-passage, it is certain that the garrison on the Wall would sometimes
-visit the country to the north, for the purposes of plunder and of
-slaughter, and would require the means of egress.
-
-The mile-castles may now all be recognised in due succession.
-
-[Sidenote: BUSY GAP.]
-
-The next point of interest is Busy-gap, a broad, basin-like recess in
-the mountain ridge, about a mile from Sewingshields. The Wall here,
-being more than usually exposed, is not only strengthened with the fosse
-common in the low grounds, but has the additional protection of a
-rampart, of triangular form, to the north of this. The wood-cut will
-give some idea of the arrangement. A common stone dike occupies at
-present the place of the Wall, the foundations of which, and, for the
-most part, a portion of the grout of the interior, remain. At a little
-elevation, on the western side of the valley, is a gate called the
-King’s-wicket (Arthur’s again, probably), through which a drove-road
-passes. The gate is well situated for defence, and may have been a Roman
-passage.
-
-[Illustration: Busy Gap]
-
-Busy-gap was in the middle ages a place of much notoriety; it was the
-pass frequented by the moss-troopers and reavers of the debateable
-country.
-
-[Sidenote: STATE OF THE BORDERS.]
-
-The incessant war which was waged between England and Scotland before
-the union of the two kingdoms, rendered property exceedingly insecure,
-and nurtured a race of men who had no expectation of holding their own,
-unless they could repel force by force. It was the policy of the
-governments of both countries, to maintain on the Borders a body of men
-inured to feats of arms, whom, on any emergency, they might call to
-their assistance. Habits long indulged are not easily laid aside. When
-the policy of Elizabeth, and the accession of James to the throne of
-England, allayed the national strife, the stern warriors of the Border
-degenerated into sheep-stealers; and, instead of dying in the fray, or
-yielding their necks _honourably_ to the headsman’s stroke, burdened by
-the score the gallows-tree at Newcastle or Carlisle. The vales of North
-Tyne and the Rede, which anciently abounded with warriors, became
-infested with thieves. It is impossible to imagine the desolation and
-misery occasioned by such a state of society. Landed property was of
-little value. Precious life was idly sacrificed. Bernard Gilpin, the
-‘apostle of the north,’ was esteemed a brave man because he annually
-ventured as far as Rothbury to preach the gospel of peace to the lawless
-people of the vale of Coquet. Camden and sir Robert Cotton, though
-ardently desirous of examining the Wall, durst not venture in their
-progress eastward beyond Carvoran. ‘From thence,’ Camden says, ‘the Wall
-goeth forward more aslope by Iverton, Forsten, and Chester-in-the-Wall,
-near to Busy-gap, a place infamous for thieving and robbing, where stood
-some castles (chesters they called them), as I have heard, but I could
-not with safety take the full survey of it, for the rank robbers
-thereabouts.’ In such ill-repute were the people of these parts, even in
-their own county, that we find the Newcastle Merchants’ company in 1564,
-enacting that ‘no free brother shall take non apprentice to serve in the
-fellyshipe of non such as is or shall be borne or brought up in Tyndale,
-Lyddisdale, or any such lycke places, on pain of 20_ll_,’ because, says
-the order, ‘the parties there brought up are known, either by education
-or nature, not to be of honest conversation; they commit frequent thefts
-and other felonys, proceeding from such lewde and wicked progenitors.’
-The offence of calling a fellow-free-man ‘a Bussey-gap rogue,’ was
-sufficiently serious to attract the attention of a guild; a case of this
-kind being recorded in the books of the Bakers and Brewers’ company of
-Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 1645.
-
-The traces of this disordered state of society remained until the early
-part of the reign of George III., when the sheriff of Northumberland was
-first enabled to execute process in the north-western parts of the
-county. ‘Within my own recollection,’ says Mr. Hedley, ‘almost every old
-house in the dales of Rede and Tyne was what is called a _Peel_ house,
-built for securing its inhabitants and their cattle in the moss-trooping
-times.’ Very many of these yet exist. Far different is the state of the
-district now. The men of the mural region, and of the vales of North
-Tyne, and Rede-water, are as upright as any in England. With the
-exception of a few aged individuals, an uneducated person is not to be
-found. Although, in addition to the ordinary courts of law, they have
-access to courts-leet and courts-baron, (those admirable institutions by
-which our Saxon forefathers gave to the poorest villager the ready means
-of procuring redress of wrong,) nowhere has the law less occasion
-forcibly to assert its claims. Property is secure, and land brings its
-full price in the market. On some of the extensive farms of the Cheviot
-range, not fewer than ten thousand sheep are kept; they are counted but
-twice a year, and seldom is one amissing. The value of land in
-Northumberland (exclusive of towns and mines) is seven times greater
-than it was at the commencement of the eighteenth century, and two
-hundred times what it was in the middle of the sixteenth. The antiquary,
-who will not fail to rejoice in the prosperity of the country through
-which he is travelling, as well as in the safety of his own person, may
-therefore go on his way cheerfully and in confidence.
-
-The second mile-castle from Sewingshields, opposite the farm-house
-called the Kennel, is remarkable as having been built upon an absolute
-declivity. Hodgson observes that it had an interior wall on every side
-of it, at the distance of about twenty feet from the exterior wall.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BLACK DIKE.]
-
-Shortly after leaving Busy-gap, two narrow, but rather steep gaps are
-passed in quick succession, which do not seem to have obtained names.
-Through the first of these the BLACK DIKE has probably run. This is an
-earth-work of unknown antiquity, which is supposed to have stretched, in
-a nearly straight line, from the borders of Scotland near Peel-fell,
-through Northumberland and Durham, to the south of Yorkshire. The
-scantiness of the soil on the crags of the Wall, accounts for its not
-being discernible there, and the ground immediately to the north and
-south of it is boggy. In a plantation on the hill side, opposite to
-where we now are, looking south, the dike exists in excellent
-preservation. The _seuch_, or slack of it, may be seen even from the
-Wall, on the western edge of the plantation, which is called the
-‘Black-dike planting.’ From the information of those who knew it half a
-century ago, I shall set down its probable course in this vicinity.
-Coming in a south-east direction, it passes the east end of
-Broomlee-lough; having cleared the Wall and Vallum, it goes by the west
-of Beggar-bog, the east of Low Morwood, through the Muckle-moss, and so
-to the Black-dike plantation. Passing afterwards a field called the
-Black-hall, it is last seen on the north bank of the Tyne near the
-Water-house. It re-appears on the south bank at Morley, and passing
-Tedcastle and Dean-row, is supposed to go by Allenheads into the county
-of Durham. In the best piece of it which I have seen, the ditch is ten
-feet across the top, and about five feet deep, reckoning from the top of
-the mound on its east side. Within the memory of my informants, it was
-much deeper. The sheep were often covered up in it in a snow-storm, as
-they naturally went there for shelter. The earth taken out of the ditch
-is uniformly thrown to the east side, where it forms an embankment. No
-stones, or such only as were derived from the cutting, have been used in
-its formation. The only conjecture hazarded respecting its origin is,
-that it formed the line of demarcation between the kingdoms of
-Northumbria and Cumbria; and certainly the course pursued by the
-Black-dike is very nearly similar to the boundary assigned to these
-regions in the most authentic maps of Saxon England. The antiquity of
-the cutting may be inferred from the circumstances, that for some
-distance it forms the division between the adjacent parishes of
-Haltwhistle and Warden, and that it passes through bogs which probably
-owe their origin to the devastations committed in the north of England
-by William the Norman.[99] The Black-dike is laid down in the map of
-Northumberland which was prepared to accompany Horsley’s Britannia, and
-in Kitchin’s Map of Northumberland, under the name of the ‘Scots’-dike.’
-
-South of the turnpike road, and behind a small house, called Beggar-bog,
-is a low freestone crag, which exhibits some quarry-like excavations,
-filled with the chippings of stone. It has probably furnished material
-for the Wall, the stone being of the same character.
-
-The stream which we next cross is the Knag-burn; it forms the eastern
-boundary of Housesteads. Passing it, we scale the ramparts of this
-far-famed station.
-
-
-[Sidenote: THE ANCIENT BORCOVICUS.]
-
-BORCOVICUS.—‘This’ says Gordon, ‘is unquestionably the most remarkable
-and magnificent station in the whole island;’ and ‘it is hardly credible
-what a number of august remains of the Roman grandeur is to be seen here
-to this day, seeing in every place where one casts his eye there is some
-curious Roman antiquity to be seen: either the marks of streets and
-temples in ruins, or inscriptions, broken pillars, statues, and other
-pieces of sculpture all scattered along the ground.’ Stukely, in the
-vehemence of his admiration, denominates it ‘the Tadmor of Britain.’ Let
-not the visitor, however, approach it with expectations too greatly
-excited. There is very much to admire, but not a great deal to strike
-the eye at first sight. The altars and sculptured figures which lay in
-profusion on the ground when Gordon and Stukely were there, have been
-removed,[100] but the ruins of the place remain as complete and vast as
-ever. The city is, in a great measure, covered with its own debris, but
-the excavations which have recently been made, shew us that when they
-are continued throughout the entire station, the ancient BORCOVICUS will
-be the Pompeii of Britain.
-
-[Sidenote: HOUSESTEADS.]
-
-The station of Housesteads contains an area of nearly five acres. 'Half
-of it hangs on a slope, with a southern aspect: the other, or northern
-half, is flat, floored with basalt, covers the summit of a lofty ridge,
-and commands a prospect on the east, south, and west, far away beyond
-the valley of the Tyne, over blue air-tinted grounds and lofty
-mountains; and to the north of the Wall, over the vast waste of the
-forest of Lowes, where indeed, a proud, stupendous solitude frowns o’er
-the heath.'
-
-The Wall forms its northern boundary, and the Vallum, it is probable,
-came to the support of its southern rampart.[101] It is naturally
-defended on all sides, except the west. In order duly to protect this
-side, the gateway seems to have been walled up at an early period, and a
-triple line of ramparts drawn along it.
-
-Although the position of Housesteads clearly indicates that this fort
-was erected for the accommodation of a mural garrison, it would seem to
-have been built independently of the Wall. The first anxiety of the
-soldiers engaged in that great work would be to erect a secure
-habitation for themselves. The west wall of the station, instead of
-coming up to the great Wall in a straight line, makes the curve which is
-usual in those corners of a camp that are independent of the Wall; as is
-shewn in the wood-cut at the top of the next page.
-
-[Illustration: Junction of West Wall of Housesteads with the Wall]
-
-[Illustration: Ground Plan of Gateway, Housesteads]
-
-[Sidenote: BORCOVICUS.]
-
-All the gateways, except the north, have been explored, and present very
-interesting subjects of study to the antiquary. The western[Sidenote:
-WEST GATEWAY OF BORCOVICUS.] is in the best condition, and is specially
-worthy of attention. Its arrangements will readily be understood by an
-inspection of the ground plan which is here introduced, together with
-the views of it as seen from the outside and inside of the station, on
-the next page. This gateway, as well as the others which have been
-explored, is, in every sense of the word, double. Two walls must be
-passed before the camp can be entered; each is provided with two
-portals, and each portal has been closed with two-leaved gates. The
-southern entrance of the outside wall has alone, as yet, been entirely
-cleared of the masonry that closed it. The jambs and pillars are formed
-of massive stones of rustic masonry. The doors, if we may judge from the
-fragments of corroded iron which have been lately picked up, were of
-wood, strengthened with iron plates and studs; they moved, as is
-apparent from the pivot-holes, upon pivots of iron. In the centre of
-each portal stands a strong upright stone, against which the gates have
-shut. Some of the large projecting stones of the exterior wall are worn
-as if by the sharpening of knives upon them; this has probably been done
-by the occupants of the suburban buildings after the closing of the
-gateway. The guard-chambers on each side are in a state of choice
-preservation, one of the walls standing fourteen courses high. Were a
-roof put on them, the antiquary might here stand guard, as the Tungrians
-did of old, and, for a while, forget that the world is sixteen centuries
-older than it was when these chambers were reared. At least two of the
-chambers in this part of the camp have been warmed by U shaped flues
-running round three of their sides beneath the floor.[102] These
-chambers, when recently excavated, were found to be filled with rubbish
-so highly charged with animal matter as painfully to affect the
-sensibilities of the labourers. The teeth and bones of oxen, horns
-resembling those of the red-deer, but larger, and boars’ tusks were very
-abundant; there was the usual quantity of all the kinds of pottery used
-by the Romans. It is not improbable that this rubbish may have been
-derived from some dunghill outside the walls, and thrown here when the
-gateway was walled up; it is, however, a remarkable fact, that the soil
-of the interior area of the stations on the Wall is, for the most part,
-thickly mingled with bones. Is it possible that the Romans have thrown
-on the floors of their apartments, and suffered to remain amongst the
-straw or rushes which may have covered them, the refuse of their food?
-
-[Illustration: Outside View of the West Portal of BORCOVICUS.]
-
-[Illustration: Inside View of the West Portal of BORCOVICUS.]
-
-The view of Housesteads in the accompanying lithograph, is taken from
-beside the eastern gateway, and gives a general idea of the scene of
-desolation which it presents.[103] The only habitation near is a
-shepherd’s cottage to the south of the station. A peculiarity in the
-upper division of the eastern gateway requires attention; the lower
-division, as seen in the lithograph, has been walled up at an early
-period. A rut, nearly nine inches deep, appears in the threshold, on
-each side of the central stone against which the gates closed. Grooves,
-similar in character, are seen in the gateways of the camps at
-Birdoswald and Maryport. Were it not for the central stone, which
-presents an impediment to the passage of chariots, no one would doubt
-that these hollows have been occasioned by the action of their wheels.
-The following extract, explanatory of the condition of the city of
-Pompeii, will probably throw light upon this and other things belonging
-to the camp.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- HOUSESTEADS (BORCOVICUS) FROM THE EAST.
- Printed by W Monkhouse, York
-]
-
-[Sidenote: RUTS IN THE GATEWAY.]
-
- The Domitian way which led to it was narrow, the carriage-way seldom
- exceeding ten feet in width. The streets of the city itself are paved
- with large irregular pieces of lava, joined neatly together, in which
- the chariot wheels have worn ruts, still discernible; in some places
- they are an inch and a half deep, and in narrow streets follow one
- track.... In most places, the streets are so narrow, that they may be
- crossed at one stride; where they are wider, a raised stepping-stone
- has been placed in the centre of the crossing. This, though in the
- middle of the carriage-way, did not much inconvenience those who drove
- about in the _biga_, or two-horsed chariot, because the width of these
- streets being only sufficient to admit the carriage, the wheels passed
- freely in the spaces left between the curb on either side, and the
- stone in the centre.[104]
-
-The stone in the centre of the doorway would not be a greater impediment
-than the stepping stones in the streets of Pompeii.
-
-The remains of the gateways of BORCOVICUS shew that in plan and
-construction they must have resembled the Roman Gateway which, under the
-name of the ‘Porta nera,’ is preserved entire at Treves, AUGUSTA
-TREVIRORUM, once the seat of government of the Western Empire.
-
-In examining this and other Roman camps, the spectator will, perhaps, be
-struck with the narrowness of the streets, and the very small capacity
-of the the dwellings. It is well to recollect that in their encampments
-the Romans studiously avoided occupying a larger space than was
-absolutely necessary. Gibbon observes that a modern army would present
-to the enemy a front three times as extended as a Roman one of the same
-force. In the field, ten men were apportioned to a tent, ten feet
-square;[105] a similar proportion would without doubt be followed in the
-stationary camp.
-
-[Sidenote: BORCOVICUS.]
-
-It is not easy to ascertain the precise character of the dwellings of
-the soldiers; the more perfect of the ruins in this and other forts,
-induce the belief that they were dark, bare, and cheerless. The roofs
-were probably formed of free-stone slate. Several thin slabs of this
-kind, with nail-holes in them, as well as some of the nails themselves,
-have been found in this and other stations.[106] On Plate XIII, figs. 1,
-7, are drawn some door or window heads, found here; these most likely
-belonged to buildings of a superior class. The entrance into a chamber
-at HABITANCUM, recently excavated, was found to be only fourteen inches
-wide; it was rudely ‘stepped over’ at the top. Fragments of a sort of
-window glass are frequently found in some of the stations; this would
-probably be a rare luxury.[107]
-
-[Sidenote: THE CHAMBERS OF THE STATION.]
-
-At Housesteads, two or three of the ruined chambers will, above the
-rest, attract the attention of the visitor. Near the centre of the
-northern division is one which is seventy feet long and eight broad; it
-must have been a place of public concourse. In the front of it is a kiln
-which has probably been used for drying corn; near the southern gateway
-is another which was nearly destroyed in the endeavour made to extricate
-a cow which had fallen into it, and, in struggling to relieve herself,
-had thrust her head and neck into the flue. The Romans seem to have
-kiln-dried their corn at the close of the harvest; it would not have
-been safe to stack it in the open fields. They would the more readily do
-this, as it is still by no means unusual, in the central and southern
-parts of Europe, to thrash the corn at the close of harvest on the field
-where it grew.
-
-Three hypocausts have been found here, two within the station, and
-another to the east of it, on the Knag-burn; the flues of the latter
-were full of soot; very slight traces of any of them now remain.
-
-In this and most other stations, writes Hodgson, ‘there are found
-considerable quantities of limestone, having partly the character of
-stalagmite, and partly that of such cellular stone as forms about the
-mouths of petrifying wells. Some of it is in amorphous lumps; but the
-greatest part of it has been either sawn into rectangular pieces, or
-formed in a fluid state in moulds.’ They are probably artificial; at
-HABITANCUM, where this calcareous substance is abundant, it seems to
-have acquired its porosity by being mixed with straw. The use to which
-it has been applied is by no means obvious. Hodgson thought that it had
-been inserted in the side walls of the hypocausts, to allow heat to
-arise from below without smoke. This is doubtful. At HABITANCUM, the
-blocks, I am told, have been used as ordinary stones. In the
-construction of the Pharos at Dover, (where building stone is scarce)
-the calcareous composition has been largely used. Why it should have
-been employed at HABITANCUM, and other places, where free-stone is
-abundant, does not appear.
-
-[Sidenote: BORCOVICUS]
-
-The suburbs of BORCOVICUS have been very extensive, the ruins of them
-distinctly appearing on the east, south, and west sides of the station.
-A little to the south of it, and stretching westward, the ground has
-been thrown up in long terraced lines, a mode of cultivation much
-practised in Italy and in the east. Similar terraces, more feebly
-developed, appear at Bradley; I have seen them very distinctly marked on
-the banks of the Rede-water, Old Carlisle and other places.
-
-A well, cased with Roman masonry, is in front of the shepherd’s house,
-south of the station; a spring, yielding excellent water, is at the
-bottom of the same field; the Knag-burn washes the station on its
-eastern side, and there is ‘a fine well under the high basaltic cliff’
-on which the northern wall of the station stands, ‘which is still well
-walled round,’ and has occasionally been used as a bath. None has been
-discovered within the station itself.
-
- _PLATE XI_
-
-[Illustration: Broken Columns, Borcovicus]
-
- _PLATE XII_
-
-[Illustration: Sculpted Figures, Borcovicus]
-
- _PLATE XIII_
-
-[Illustration: Sculpted Figures, etc.]
-
-[Sidenote: ARCHITECTURAL REMAINS.]
-
-In the valley below is a small sandstone ridge, called Chapel-hill, from
-the idea that a temple stood upon it. Two fine altars have been found
-here.[108] The ruins that contained the Mithraic antiquities, to which
-reference will be made afterwards, stood a little to the west of this
-hill. All traces of the small, dark temple, where the horrid mysteries
-of the god were performed, are now nearly obliterated.
-
-The fragments of columns which are engraved in Plate XI, enable us to
-imagine the original grandeur of the place.[109] With some of the
-certainty with which a comparative anatomist decides upon the character
-and habits of an animal, from an inspection of a fragment of its osseous
-system, an architect determines the size and style of a building from an
-examination of some of its parts. Thus, the circular column, of which
-one of the stones (Plate XI.) that now lies in the valley below the
-station, has formed a part, was probably not less than twenty feet high;
-how imposing must the entire temple have been!
-
-Plates XII and XIII exhibit several of the carved figures which formerly
-lay in confusion among the ruins of the station. They are interesting,
-as exhibiting the state of the arts in Britain at that time, the mode of
-dress adopted by the Romans, and the [Illustration: Figure of Victory]
-high degree of attention which they paid to the decoration of their
-stations. Roman art in Britain has surely been rated too low.
-
-The figure introduced on this page was found here. It represents one of
-old Rome’s most favourite deities,—Victory, careering, with outstretched
-wings, over the globe. How strong must the passion for conquest have
-been in the breast of a people, who, though nurtured in a southern
-climate, braved for more than three centuries, the fogs, and storms, and
-desolation of this wild region! Wherever the winged goddess led, they
-followed, and, most pertinaciously too, maintained their ground. But,
-there is a tide in the affairs of men.
-
-A Roman poet, in the fulness of his heart, sang—
-
- Urbs oritur (quis tunc hoc ulli credere posset?)
- Victorem terris impositura pedem.
- Cuncta regas: et sis magno sub Cæsare semper
- Sæpe etiam plures nominis hujus habe.
- Et quoties steteris domito sublimis in orbe,
- Omnia sint humeris inferiora tuis.
-
-How different the strains which, in a distant age, and in another clime,
-were to flow from the lyre of a brother bard, and how appropriate to the
-present condition of the deserted BORCOVICUS!—
-
- Where is Rome?
- She lives but in the tale of other times;
- Her proud pavilions are the hermit’s home,
- And her long colonnades, her public walks
- Now faintly echo to the pilgrim’s feet,
- Who comes to muse in solitude, and trace,
- Through the rank moss revealed, her honoured dust.
-
-That Housesteads is the BORCOVICUS of the empire, [Illustration:
-Sepulchral Slab to a young Physician] appears plain from the numerous
-inscriptions that allude to the first cohort of the Tungrians, which,
-according to the Notitia, was quartered there. One of these inscriptions
-is shewn on page 63; another, a sepulchral stone, is here presented. The
-figure on the top of the slab I take to be a rabbit, and suspect that it
-had some reference to the worship of the obscene god, Priapus. The
-inscription is usually read in the following manner, though, perhaps,
-_ordinario_ might with equal propriety be read _ordinato_:—
-
- D[IIS] M[ANIBVS]
- ANICIO
- INGENVO
- MEDICO
- ORDI[NARIO] COH[ORTIS]
- PRIMÆ TVNGR[ORVM]
- VIX[IT] AN[NIS] XXV
-
- _Sacred_ to the gods of the shades below.
- To Anicius
- Ingenuus,
- physician
- in ordinary, of cohort
- the first of the Tungrians.
- He lived twenty-five years.
-
-From an inscription found at Castlecary, it appears that this cohort of
-Tungrians built one thousand paces of the Antonine Wall in Scotland.
-They were from about Tongres, on the banks of the Mæse, in Belgic Gaul.
-Their rank, as a milliary cohort, conferred on them the dangerous honour
-of advancing in the van of the army to battle, and their acknowledged
-valour probably procured for them the appointment to this exposed and
-dangerous post.
-
-[Sidenote: THE NAME ASCERTAINED.]
-
-The etymology of _Borcovicus_ is easy. A high hill to the south of the
-station is called Borcum or Barcomb, a neighbouring stream is designated
-Bardon-burn, and a village near its confluence with the Tyne,
-Bardon-mill. _Bar_, in Celtic, means a height, and probably forms the
-root of all these names; the termination, _vicus_, is a Latin word,
-signifying a village.
-
-The stone used in the inside of the walls of the station, and for other
-ordinary purposes, has been quarried out of the cliffs in the sandstone
-ridge, along which the present military road passes. 'The altars,
-columns, and quoins, and much of the ashlar work, have been taken from a
-stratum of freestone on the north side of the Wall, and similar to that
-in which the recesses, called the King and Queen’s Caves, on the south
-side of Broomlee-lough, are formed.'[110]
-
-
-[Sidenote: THE VALLUM COMMANDED BY THE CRAGS.]
-
-Again taking the Wall as our guide, we will pursue our course westward.
-For the greater part of the way along the high ground, the Wall is in a
-sufficiently good state of preservation to make it a varied and
-interesting study; it not unfrequently exhibits five, six, and even
-seven courses of facing-stones. The Northumbrian lakes also lend a charm
-to the scene. Though appearing in native simplicity and rude grandeur,
-they will not on that account be less appreciated by men of taste. The
-Vallum is generally very boldly developed, and runs for several miles in
-the valley below, completely commanded by the hill on which the Wall
-stands, as is shewn in the section, Plate IV. This fact is surely fatal
-to the theory of its having been erected to withstand the brunt of a
-northern foe. It would have been impolitic to allow the enemy to occupy
-these heights even as a post of observation. It is true, that the Vallum
-is occasionally commanded by the rising ground on the south: opposite
-Sewingshields it is so, and opposite Hot-bank, a little to the west of
-where we now are, it is overlooked on both sides. This difficulty is not
-a very formidable one. The engineer of the Barrier has drawn the Vallum
-chiefly in straight lines from one point to another, and has not thought
-it necessary to guard with excessive jealousy every little rising ground
-to the south; he never, however, departs from his course to go round the
-north of a hill, as he does to go round the south of that one near
-Halton-chesters. The cases, moreover, in which the Vallum is exposed to
-observation from the south, are very few. Horsley’s own testimony upon
-this point is decided. He writes—
-
- It must be owned, that the southern prospect of Hadrian’s work, and
- the defence on that side, is generally better than on the north;
- whereas the northern prospect and defence have been principally, or
- only taken care of in the Wall of Severus.[111]
-
-[Sidenote: RAPISHAW-GAP.]
-
-After passing a mile-castle we come to a depression in the ridge of
-basalt, that places us opposite the west end of Broomlee-lough; the crag
-on the west side of this slack is called Cuddy’s-crag. A little farther
-on, we reach a more extensive pass, called Rapishaw-gap; a road passes
-through it under the same circumstances as that through Busy-gap, a
-little above the bottom of the valley. The traveller may here with
-advantage go to the north of the Wall, in order to examine the
-geological character of the cliffs he has passed; they are seen ‘to rise
-in rude and pillared majesty.’
-
-Regaining the high grounds, the Wall for a short space is found to
-possess less than its usual interest; the ground on the east side of the
-Bradley estate was formerly common, and the object of our study was
-every man’s prey. Other objects of inquiry, however, abundantly relieve
-the attention. Langley castle, on the south bank of the Tyne, is in
-sight, and during our western journey will long continue to be so. It is
-a square building strengthened by rectangular towers at the corners.
-Formerly a seat of the Percys, it became afterwards the property of the
-Radcliffes. It passed, on the rebellion of 1715, along with the other
-possessions of the earl of Derwentwater, into the hands of the
-commissioners of Greenwich Hospital, who at present retain it. Destroyed
-by fire at an early period, it has never been repaired; its masonry is
-notwithstanding in excellent preservation. On a clear day the singularly
-strong tongue of land on which are the ruins of Staward-le-peel, may
-also be discerned to the south. But, more to our present purpose, the
-high, brown hill of Borcum, from which the Romans obtained much of the
-stone used in the construction of this part of the Wall, is in the
-foreground. [Sidenote: ANCIENT QUARRY] An interesting discovery was made
-here in 1837, to which subsequent reference will be made. On opening an
-ancient quarry on the top of it, near the ‘longstone,’ a workman found a
-small copper vessel, containing a large number of Roman coins; four of
-these were of the time of Hadrian, and all the rest, of previous reigns.
-Those of Trajan and Hadrian were as fresh as if new from the die. The
-conclusion is natural, that the quarry had been last wrought in the time
-of Hadrian, the Wall itself being possibly of the same date. An
-extensive earthen camp is on the summit of the hill, probably raised by
-the soldiers who were engaged in quarrying the rock.
-
-Greenlee-lough is to the north; on its western margin is a modern
-structure, Bonny-rig, the property of sir Edward Blackett.
-
-Proceeding westward, the Wall again rises into notice. ‘Much of it
-remains of very various thicknesses, the whole of the perpendicular
-outsets and insets being on the south side.’
-
-[Sidenote: HADRIAN SLAB.]
-
-On the tail of the crag on which we now are, the farm-house of Bradley
-stands. Built up in the doorway of its old kitchen, was a stone, now at
-Matfen, bearing the fragment of an inscription. Another fractured slab,
-formerly in the possession of the ‘judicious’ Warburton, and now at
-Durham, when joined to it, gives an inscription precisely similar to one
-immediately to be noticed, with the exception of a letter or two in the
-line of the fracture. The fragments, doubtless, as Hodgson conjectures,
-formed one stone, deposited in the foundation of some castellum in this
-neighbourhood, as a memorial of its erection by Hadrian. The wood-cut
-annexed has been prepared from drawings carefully made of the two
-portions in their separate localities.
-
-[Illustration: Slab to Hadrian, Bradley]
-
-[Sidenote: BRADLEY HALL.]
-
-Once, at least, since the days of Hadrian, this central region of the
-Wall has been honoured with the presence of royalty. Hodgson says,—
-
- On the authority of documents in Rymer, Prynne, and the Calender of
- Patent Rolls, I find Edward the First testing records in the presence
- of several great officers of state, at Lanchester, on Aug. 10; at
- Corbridge, Aug. 14; at Newburgh, Aug. 28, 30, 31, and Sep. 4; at
- Bradley ‘in Marchia Scotiæ,’ Sep. 6 and 7; at Haltwhistle on the 11th,
- and at Thirlwall on the 20th of the same month; and at Lanercost on
- Oct. 4, A.D. 1306, at which last house he continued all winter. The
- Bradley here mentioned is probably Bradley-hall, on the right bank of
- Craglough-burn, and a little south both of Vallum and Wall, not the
- farm-house of Bradley, which is between the two barriers.—_Northd._
- II. iii. 288.
-
-The exigencies of war have again and again drawn to this secluded spot
-the mightiest potentates of earth; as yet this imperial ground has not
-been trodden by the feet of Majesty, attracted by the sweet allurements
-of peace.
-
-On the margin of the military road, opposite to us, is the only Inn in
-the district, which is known by no other name than that of _Twice
-Brewed_. Before the construction of the Railway it was much resorted to
-by the carriers who conducted the traffic between the eastern and
-western portions of the island. As many as fifty horses and about twenty
-men would be put up here for the night. Now, it is nearly forsaken.
-Hutton took up his abode here on a carrier’s night. The difficulty he
-had in procuring an exclusive bed was compensated by the amusement of
-observing the carriers at their meal—he soon perceived that they had ‘no
-barricade in the throat; and became convinced that eating was the chief
-end of man!’
-
-[Sidenote: MILKING-GAP.]
-
-The next break in the basaltic ridge, is the Milking-gap. As we approach
-it, Crag-lough is seen laving the base of the perpendicular cliff along
-which the Wall runs. In order to take the high ground, westward of the
-gap, the Wall here turns at a considerable angle. In this valley, the
-north fosse again comes to the help of the structure. In front of the
-farm-house, called Hot-bank, are distinct traces of a mile-castle. In
-taking up its foundations, the slab, of which the annexed drawing is a
-faithful copy, was found, which would seem to be a tablet precisely
-similar to that which is formed by the junction of the two fragments
-referred to above.
-
-[Illustration: Slab to Hadrian, Milking-gap]
-
- IMP[ERATORIS] CAES[ARIS] TRAIAN[I].
- HADRIANI AVG[VSTI]
- LEG[IO] SECVNDA AVG[VSTA]
- AVLO PLATORIO NEPOTE LEG[ATO] PR[O]PR[ÆTORE.]
-
- Of the Emperor Cæsar Trajanus
- Hadrianus Augustus,
- The second legion, styled the August,
- Aulus Platorius Nepos, being legate and proprætor.
-
-Of all the inscriptions discovered in Britain, Hodgson pronounces this
-to be of the greatest historical importance, inasmuch as it leads to the
-true reading of several fragments of similar inscriptions
-throwing[Sidenote: MILKING-GAP INSCRIPTION.] light upon the authorship
-of the Wall. One of these was known to Horsley, and seems to have
-puzzled that great antiquary. It and other fragments which have since
-been found in different mile-castles, tend to produce the conviction,
-that the mile-castles, (which are on the line of the Wall, ascribed to
-Severus,) were built by Hadrian. The simplicity of the inscription will
-strike the classical reader, who will not fail also to observe the
-peculiarity of the name of the emperor being in the genitive case.
-
-Although the station of _Vindolana_ lies considerably to the south of
-the lines of the Barrier, it is ranked by the Notitia among the stations
-_per lineam valli_, and as such, must be examined by us in our mural
-peregrination. Leaving Milking-gap with this view, and crossing the low
-grounds to the south of the Wall, the Vallum is observed, contrary to
-its usual tendency, making two rapid curves, something in the form of
-the letter S, to avoid, apparently, the swellings of the contiguous
-marsh. At High-shields, a cottage on the little ridge south of the
-turnpike-road, the station comes into view. It stands upon a partially
-detached eminence, surrounded, though not so closely as to be commanded,
-by hills of superior elevation. On all sides, except the western, it is
-naturally defended, whilst the summits of the surrounding heights afford
-it a degree of shelter which would be peculiarly grateful to the natives
-of southern Europe. The Chineley-burn flows past it, and the situation
-is altogether one of peculiar beauty. In modern times, the place has
-been variously designated Little Chesters, the Bowers, and Chesterholm.
-
-
-[Sidenote: VINDOLANA.]
-
-VINDOLANA.—As this station is detached from the Wall, and lies upon the
-line of the ancient road which ran from CILURNUM to MAGNA, it is not
-improbable that it was one of Agricola’s forts. The road which connected
-it with the Wall may yet be distinctly traced between High Shields and
-the farm-house of Chesterholm.
-
-The walls, ditches, and gateways of the station are all discernible. The
-northern gateway would be the one chiefly used by the garrison, as it
-opens directly upon the Great Military Way. An examination of the
-western gateway, some years ago, led to the belief that it had been
-walled up at an early period; this is the most exposed side of the camp.
-A portion of the wall of the station near the north-east corner, when
-cleared by its late owner, Mr. Hedley, stood twelve courses high. In
-this case, as in many others, the researches of the antiquary have only
-facilitated the operations of the destroyer; much of it has since been
-removed. The size of the stones, which is considerable in the foundation
-course, gradually diminishes upwards.
-
-[Sidenote: CHESTERHOLM.]
-
-At least two buildings provided with hypocausts, have been discovered
-here. One of these stood about fifty yards beyond the western rampart,
-and when discovered, contained a square apartment, vaulted above. Some
-of the vaulting-stones are still preserved at Chesterholm; they are
-grooved near the lower extremity, apparently to allow of the joints
-being strengthened by the insertion between them of keys of slate or
-wood. The remains of this building were more complete when Hodgson wrote
-the following paragraph than at present:—
-
- The pillars of the hypocaust are still very black with fire and soot;
- and people say that the Bowers, from the Roman age till within the
- last century, was the elysium of a colony of fairies; and this ruined
- bath, the kitchen to one of their palaces, of which the soot among the
- stones was undeniable evidence; and confident belief affirmed, that
- long passages led from this laboratory of savoury messes to
- subterranean halls that ever echoed to the festivities and music of
- the Queen of the Bowers, and her aërial court.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Fortune, Chesterholm]
-
-The other hypocaust was partially explored by Warburton in 1717, but
-more fully by the rev. Ant. Hedley in 1831. It stood within the area of
-the camp not far from the eastern gateway. In its ruins, Warburton found
-the fine altar to Fortune, here engraved. It is now preserved in the
-Library of the Dean and Chapter at Durham, the ‘judicious’ antiquary not
-having been able to obtain his price for it of my lord Oxford.[112] Here
-also Mr. Hedley discovered the three noble altars [Illustration:
-Hypocaust Pillar] which are still preserved at Chesterholm. The pillars
-which supported the floor of the hypocausts were of different shapes and
-diameters; some of them were portions of square columns, as in the
-annexed example, some circular, like the balusters of stairs, as may be
-seen by the specimens of them in the garden at Chesterholm. The Romans
-themselves, Hodgson remarks, seem to have treated the fallen works of
-their predecessors here with very little ceremony, when they cut down
-the handsome columns of halls and temples into pillars for sooty
-hypocausts.
-
-About a furlong west of the camp is a copious spring, from which the
-water was taken by a channel formed of large stones into the station.
-The water still, in some measure, follows its ancient track, as the
-appearance of the herbage shews, and pours itself, by a covered passage,
-into the Chineley-burn on the opposite side.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- MILE STONE AT CHESTERHOLM.
-]
-
-In the vicinity of the camp is an object of peculiar interest. On the
-line of the ancient Roman road which skirts its northern rampart, stands
-a mile-stone at the spot where the soldiers of Agricola or Hadrian
-placed it. The opposite lithograph shews it in the foreground; the camp
-is in the distance. It is upwards of six feet high, and is nearly two
-feet in diameter. There are traces of an inscription on its western
-face, but scarcely a letter can now be deciphered.[Sidenote: ROMAN
-MILE-STONE.] Another mile-stone formerly stood to the west of this, but
-it was removed and split up by its tasteless owner, into two gate-posts.
-Horsley says that it bore the inscription—
-
- BONO REIPVBLICÆ NATO.
- To one born for the good of the republic—
-
-an inscription which, supposing it to be perfect, though this is a
-little doubtful, is happily contrived to be complimentary to each
-successive emperor. The Romans, with wise policy, paid great attention
-to their roads; the stones which they erected at every mile were
-generally inscribed with the name of the consul or emperor under whose
-auspices they were made. Horsley mentions another mile-stone, which was
-to the east of the present one.
-
-Close by the mile-stone is a tumulus of considerable size.
-
-In the house and grounds of the late Mr. Hedley, are preserved some very
-valuable antiquarian remains. A very fine altar to Jupiter is reserved
-for subsequent description. Another, whose focus is reddened by the
-action of fire, is here introduced on account of the evidence which it
-affords, in corroboration of the conjecture of Horsley, that Little
-Chesters was the VINDOLANA of the Romans, where, according to the
-Notitia, the fourth cohort of the Gauls was stationed.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Genius of the Pretorium]
-
-GENIO PRÆTORI[I] SACRVM PI TVANIVS SE CVNDVS PRÆ FECTVS COH[ORTIS] IV
-GALLOR[VM]
-
-To the genius of the Prætorium sacred; Pi- tuanius Se- cundus præ- fect
-of the fourth cohort of the Gauls, _erects this_.
-
-Several other inscriptions by the fourth cohort of the Gauls have been
-found here since the time of Horsley.
-
-The altar to Fortune, given in a previous page, shews us that at least a
-detachment of the sixth legion had, at some period, its abode here.
-[Sidenote: THE TWENTIETH LEGION.] A stone, [Illustration: alt=Symbol,
-Leg. XX.] preserved at the place, and of which an engraving is here
-given, bears testimony to the presence of the twentieth legion also,
-which was surnamed V[ALENS] V[ICTRIX], ‘the valiant and victorious’, and
-of which the symbol was a boar. This legion was first sent over to
-Britain by Claudius, and remained in it until the island was abandoned
-by the Romans. Horsley conceives that this legion was concerned in the
-erection of the Vallum, though, he adds, we have no inscriptions to
-prove it. He suspects that it was no-way concerned in building the Wall,
-because, among all the centurial inscriptions which had come under his
-notice, not one mentioned this legion, or any cohort belonging to it.
-The discovery, since the publication of the Britannia Romana, of this
-and other memorials to be noticed as we proceed, renders [Illustration:
-alt=Part of Slab to Hadrian] it probable that the twentieth legion was
-engaged upon both the Wall and the Vallum; and as, according to Horsley,
-‘it is evident that this legion was at Chester in the year 154,’ where
-it long continued, the probability is strengthened, that the Wall, as
-well as the Vallum, was built before that period. A fragment of an
-inscription, represented above, bears direct reference to Hadrian. The
-Milking-gap slab, to which it has a very close resemblance, enables us
-to supply the parts that are wanting. The only difference seems to be,
-that the emperor’s name is in the dative case instead of the genitive as
-in the other example.
-
- _IMP CA_ES TRAIA_N_
- _HAD_RIANO _AVG P P_
- _LE_G II _AVG_
- _A PLATORIO NEPOTE LEG PR PR._
-
-The cottage which Mr. Hedley erected for his own residence is, with the
-exception of the quoins, [Illustration: alt=Coping-stone, Roman
-‘broaching’] entirely formed of stones procured from the station. In
-addition to the altars which stand in front of the house, several
-objects of considerable interest are built up in the covered passage
-which leads from the kitchen to the burn; among them is a range of Roman
-coping-stones, of the form shewn in the cut. The ‘broaching’ of the
-stones has been alluded to previously.
-
-Near the stables attached to the house, is a Roman altar converted into
-a swine-trough; the figure on its side seems to have been intended for
-an eagle, the emblem of the imperial Jove. A foretaste this of the day
-when every idol shall be cast to the moles and to the bats. May it
-speedily arrive!
-
-[Illustration:
-
- John Storey, Del. et Lith.
- THE CRAGS, WEST OF CRAG LOUGH.
-]
-
-[Sidenote: VINDOLANA]
-
-The probable meaning of the word VINDOLANA, is ‘the hill of arms;’
-_vin_, with slight variations of pronunciation, signifying, in all the
-Celtic dialects, a height; and _lann_, in the Gaelic, weapons. The name
-well accords with those common in Ossian’s poems.
-
-Rejoining the Wall at Milking-gap, and continuing our course westward,
-we soon arrive at a conspicuous gap, on the Steel-rig grounds. The Wall
-on the eastern declivity of this pass may be studied to great advantage.
-The courses are laid parallel to the horizon; the mortar of each course
-of the interior seems to have been smoothed over before the
-superincumbent mass was added. In order to give the in-door antiquary an
-idea of its condition, a drawing of it is here introduced.
-
-[Sidenote: PEEL-CRAG.]
-
-Mounting another hill, and again descending into the valley, we find
-another gap, in which the remains of a mile-castle will be noticed, from
-which it has received the name of the Castle-nick. A little farther
-removed is Peel-crag, one of the most precipitous faces which the Wall
-has had to traverse. The military way ingeniously avoids the sudden
-descent by winding round the southern projections of the rock. After
-passing a cottage, called the Peel, a modern road is encountered which
-leads to Keilder, and so into Scotland; in its progress northwards,
-however, it soon degenerates into a mere track. As this pass is more
-than usually open, the fosse again appears surmounted by a mound on its
-northern margin; the earth-works are strongly marked, but the Wall is
-gone.
-
-The lithographic view represents the northern aspect of the crags, as
-they appear here.
-
-On the western side of this, sheltered by a few trees, is the farm-house
-of Steel-rig. Attaining the next elevation—Winshields-crag—we are on
-ground reputed to be the highest between the two seas; a turf cairn has
-been erected on it for the purposes of the ordnance survey. From this
-lofty summit, the vessels navigating the Solway may easily be descried.
-
-[Sidenote: BLOODY-GAP.]
-
-Proceeding in the same direction, we reach another gap of wide
-dimensions, but very steep on both declivities. Here the Wall has been
-provided with a ditch, strengthened, as usual in dangerous situations,
-with a rampart on its outer margin. If the local vocabulary does not
-furnish this pass with a name (and I have not been able to find that it
-does), Bloody-gap, from the following circumstance, well befits it.
-Nearly direct north from it, is a rising ridge of ground, called
-Scotch-coulthard. When the moss-troopers, who abounded in these parts,
-succeeded in safely reaching it, their pursuers commonly considered
-farther chase useless. Between the Wall and this point of safety,
-therefore, the race and the conflict were necessarily of the most
-desperate character; that many deadly conflicts have taken place, is
-evidenced by the numerous skeletons which are turned up in draining the
-ground.
-
-A lonely cottage, upon an exposed part of the ridge, is called
-Shield-on-the-Wall.
-
-Near the modern military way, two large stones, called ‘the mare and
-foal,’ are standing. In Armstrong’s map of Northumberland, three are
-marked; they are probably remains of a Druidical circle.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- THE WALL AT STEEL-RIG.
- Printed by W. Monkhouse, York
-]
-
-[Sidenote: ANCIENT TRADITIONS.]
-
-Shortly afterwards we come to a gap of very bold proportions. Popular
-faith asserts it to have been the abode of evil spirits, and it is known
-by the ominous name of Bogle-hole. The sides of the gap are steep; on
-the western declivity the courses of the Wall are for the most part
-conformable to the ground, but they are stayed up by occasional steps
-parallel to the horizon. In the valley, to the south, the Vallum is seen
-bending up towards the Wall, apparently to assist in defending the pass;
-it would not have done so, had it been an independent fortification. The
-vicinity of Bogle-hole seems a fitting place for introducing the
-following passage from Procopius, a writer of the fifth century. We can
-readily conceive that at a period when the inroads of the Caledonians
-were still fresh in the memory of the inhabitants, the country north of
-the Wall would be regarded with superstitious dread. Doubtless, many who
-passed the boundary, found, to their cost, that in this region lay the
-pathway to the world of spirits:—
-
- Moreover, in this isle of Brittia, men of ancient time built a long
- wall, cutting off a great portion of it: for the soil, and the man,
- and all other things, are not alike on both sides; for on the eastern
- (southern) side of the Wall, there is a wholesomeness of air in
- conformity with the seasons, moderately warm in summer, and cool in
- winter. Many men inhabit here, living much as other men. The trees,
- with their appropriate fruits, flourish in season, and their corn
- lands are as productive as others; and the district appears
- sufficiently fertilized by streams. But on the western (northern) side
- all is different, insomuch indeed, that it would be impossible for a
- man to live there, even half an hour. Vipers and serpents innumerable,
- with all other kinds of wild beasts, infest that place; and, what is
- most strange, the natives affirm, that if any one, passing the Wall,
- should proceed to the other side, he would die immediately, unable to
- endure the unwholesomeness of the atmosphere. Death also, attacking
- such beasts as go thither, forthwith destroys them.... They say that
- the souls of men departed are always conducted to this place; but in
- what manner I will explain immediately, having frequently heard it
- from men of that region relating it most seriously, although I would
- rather ascribe their asseverations to a certain dreamy faculty which
- possesses them.—_Giles’s Ancient Britons_, I. 404.
-
-[Sidenote: CAW-GAP.]
-
-The next defile is Caw-gap; some ruined cottages, formed of Wall-stones,
-stand in it. The extreme jealousy with which the Romans defended an
-exposed situation is well shewn here. The fosse, which guards the pass
-through the low ground, is discontinued on the western side as soon as
-the Wall attains a sufficient elevation, but upon the the ground
-drooping, though only for the space of a few yards, it re-appears for
-that short distance.
-
-A road runs through this pass to the north, which soon becomes a mere
-track. It passes a solitary house, called Burn Deviot, nearly due north
-from the gap, which was long the resort of smugglers and sheep-stealers.
-The memory of its last tenants, Nell Nichol and her two daughters, who
-were a pest to the country, is still fresh in the district. Though many
-years have elapsed since any one occupied the dwelling, lights are said
-often to be seen at the windows at night, visible tokens of the presence
-of the spirits of the murdered children of Nell’s daughters.
-
-[Sidenote: CAWFIELDS CRAGS.]
-
-The crags along which we soon find ourselves to be proceeding, possess a
-perpendicular elevation of nearly five hundred feet above the plains
-below. Passing another small gap, called the Thorny Doors, we come to a
-tract of Wall in an excellent state of preservation. The lower courses
-have lately been freed from the rubbish which for centuries has covered
-them, and the fallen stones replaced in their proper order. The whole
-face of the Wall has a remarkably fresh appearance, and nowhere can the
-tooling of the stones be examined with more advantage. Amongst the
-fallen stones, one was lately found which furnishes us with additional
-evidence, that the twentieth legion was engaged in the erection of this
-part of the Wall. It [Illustration: alt=Mural Stone, Leg. XX. V.V.] is
-preserved amongst the antiquities at Chesters, and is represented in the
-adjoining cut. This sculpture cannot have been derived from the Vallum,
-in the construction of which, in the time of Hadrian, the twentieth
-legion is acknowledged to have been employed; for the Vallum is here
-distant more than three hundred yards from the Wall. The reader will of
-course perceive the bearing which this fact has upon the question of the
-contemporaneous origin of the two structures, and the construction of
-the Wall, as well as the Vallum, by Hadrian.
-
-While the antiquary is eagerly scrutinizing indentations in stones which
-were chiselled sixteen centuries ago, his eye will occasionally rest
-upon the memorials of an antiquity so indefinite as to throw into the
-shade even his primeval records. Lepidodendra, and other fossils of the
-mill-stone-grit and coal series, are of occasional occurrence. Who shall
-tell when these giant plants flourished, how they were enveloped in
-their sandy bed, and how hardened into the flinty stone made use of by
-the Roman soldiers? Imagination reels at the questions suggested.
-
-[Sidenote: PILGRIMS'-GAP.]
-
-We are now arrived at the most perfect mile-castle remaining on the
-line, generally named, from the farm-house to the north of it, the
-Cawfields Castle. The gap which it guarded was denominated by the
-peripatetic party of 1849, in commemoration of their visit, the
-Pilgrims’-gap, a name which is beginning to be recognised by the
-inhabitants of the neighbourhood.
-
-[Sidenote: THE CAWFIELDS CASTELLUM.]
-
-Until recently, the castellum was nearly covered with its own ruins.
-Since the annexed drawing was taken, the rubbish has been entirely
-removed from the inside, as well as the out.
-
-The building is a parallelogram, but the corners at its lower side are
-rounded off. It measures, inside, sixty-three feet from east to west,
-and forty-nine feet from north to south. The great Wall forms its
-northern side. The stones used in the construction of this building are
-of the same size and character as those employed in the Wall itself; the
-mortar has disappeared from between the courses of the facing-stones,
-but portions of lime are seen in the grout of the interior. In the
-western wall, nine courses of stones are standing. The side walls of the
-castle have not been tied to the great Wall, but have been brought close
-up to it, and the junction cemented with mortar.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- MILE-CASTLE NEAR CAW-FIELDS
- Printed by W. Monkhouse York.
-]
-
-It is provided with a gateway of large dimensions, both on its northern
-and southern side. In Horsley’s day, it was a matter of doubt whether
-there was any opening through the Wall, excepting at the points where
-the Watling-street and the Maiden-way crossed it; the disinterment of
-this mile-castle sets the question at rest, and justifies us in
-believing that the passages at Busy-gap, Rapishaw-gap, and other places,
-are of Roman formation.
-
-The gateways are formed of large slabs of rustic masonry, and to give
-them full development, the walls are thicker here than in other parts.
-The width of the wall at the lower gateway is nine feet three inches; at
-the upper, which was, of course, the more exposed, ten feet six inches.
-The opening of each gateway is ten feet. Two folding-doors have closed
-the entrance, which, when thrown back, have fallen into recesses
-prepared for them. Some of the pivot holes of the doors remain, which
-exhibit a circular chafing, and are slightly tinged with the oxide of
-iron. The security of the northern gateway did not entirely depend upon
-the solidity of its masonry, or the strength of its doors. It opens upon
-a sort of cliff, and the road from it does not lead directly away, but
-runs for a little distance under the Wall, so as to give an opportunity
-of more readily acting against an enemy.
-
-The masonry of the whole building, but particularly of the gateways, is
-peculiarly fresh. The lines that have been lightly chiselled on some of
-the large rustic slabs of the gateways, in order to guide the workmen in
-correctly placing those above which project less than than the others,
-are still quite distinct. The stone is of a very durable nature, but it
-is difficult to conceive how such slender markings, particularly when in
-a horizontal position, could long resist the action of the weather. Were
-we to judge only from the appearance of the masonry, we might be led to
-suppose that the building had been enveloped in its own ruins not long
-after its erection—perhaps in that dreadful irruption of the Caledonians
-which brought Severus to this country—and that it was never afterwards
-repaired.
-
-In clearing out the interior of this building, no traces of party-walls,
-of a substantial character at least, were found. It stands upon a slope
-of about one foot in five, and, towards the hanging side of it, the
-ground has been rendered horizontal by ‘made earth.’ Some fragments of
-gray slate, pierced for roofing, were found among the rubbish; it is
-therefore not improbable that a shed was laid against the southern wall
-for the protection of the soldiers. At about the elevation which the
-raised floor would reach, the Wall is, in one place, eaten away by the
-action of fire. Here, probably, was the hearth round which the shivering
-soldiers of the south clustered, to forget, in the recital of their
-country’s tales, the fierce Caledonians who prowled around them, or the
-still fiercer tempests, which all their valour and all their engineering
-skill could not exclude from their dwellings. With the exception of such
-sheds, or mere temporary erections, the whole building seems to have
-been open above. Two large fragments of funereal slabs were found in the
-castellum; one of them has been roughly shaped into a circular form, and
-is reddened by fire; the letters which remain are distinct and well
-formed. Has it been the hearth? The inscription has been erased from the
-other. Another stone of still greater interest was found here,
-furnishing additional [Illustration: Part of Slab to Hadrian] evidence
-of the erection of the mile-castles by Hadrian. From the annexed cut, it
-will at once be perceived that it is a duplicate of the inscription,
-already described, in which the second legion endeavours to perpetuate
-its name, and those of its emperor, Hadrian, and Aulus Platorius Nepos,
-his legate. There cannot be a doubt that the castellum and the Wall were
-built at the same time, and by the same parties; if Hadrian therefore
-built the one, the other is erroneously ascribed to Severus.
-
-Two small silver coins were found amongst the rubbish within the
-castellum, one of Vespasian, the other of Marcus Aurelius. Although
-their testimony is of a negative character, it will be observed, that it
-is not inconsistent with the idea, that the castle was erected in the
-time of Hadrian, and with the opinion already hazarded, that it was
-dismantled at an early period. There were also found large pieces of
-earthen-ware, chiefly of the coarser kinds, and fragments of millstones
-formed of lava, which shew that culinary operations were carried on
-within these cold, bare walls, and a solitary oyster-shell among the
-rubbish bore testimony to the attachment of the Romans to this article
-of luxury. The mile-castle is very nearly midway between the seas.
-
-Besides the articles already enumerated, there were picked up within the
-castellum some large glass beads of somewhat singular appearance, (Plate
-VII., figs. 7, 8) and a fibula of brass. The whole of these relics are
-safely deposited in the collection of antiquities at Chesters. The
-interesting building is, happily, upon an estate belonging to John
-Clayton, esq.; the hand of the spoiler will therefore not be allowed to
-touch it.
-
-About one hundred and fifty yards south of the castellum, is a spring of
-excellent water. Near it, about midway between the Vallum and the Wall,
-an altar to Apollo was lately discovered, which will afterwards be
-described.
-
-[Sidenote: TEMPORARY CAMP.]
-
-A road leads from the vicinity of the mile-castle to the town of
-Haltwhistle, in the sheltered valley of the Tyne, whither, should the
-shades of evening be approaching, the way-worn antiquary may be glad to
-bend his steps. At the point where the path joins the modern military
-road, a Roman camp will be observed. On the sides which are most
-exposed, double and triple lines of earth-works have been raised. The
-rock on the western face of the ground where the camp stands, has been
-wrought by the Romans for stones, and the camp has given them temporary
-protection. It was here that the inscription on the face of the rock,
-LEG. VI. V., was discovered in 1847, as already mentioned, page 81. The
-quarry, not being required for the use of the district, was shortly
-afterwards closed.
-
-[Sidenote: HALTWHISTLE.]
-
-The Castle-hill at Haltwhistle is, apparently, a diluvial deposit;
-ramparts, still quite distinct, run round the margin of its summit.
-Several peel-houses in the town and its vicinity, will interest the
-antiquary.[113]
-
-To those who cherish the religious views of the early Anglican
-reformers, it will be interesting to remember, that this is the native
-district of Nicholas Ridley, bishop and martyr. Willimoteswick-castle,
-his reputed birth-place, is on the south bank of the Tyne, about three
-miles below Haltwhistle.[114]
-
-[Sidenote: HALTWHISTLE-BURN-HEAD.]
-
-Rejoining the Wall, Haltwhistle-burn-head is the first object of
-interest that we meet with in our course westward. The burn, to which
-important reference will presently be made, is derived from the
-overflowings of Greenlee-lough. Between its source, and the gap by which
-it passes the ridge on which the Wall stands, it is called the Caw-burn;
-below that point it bears the name of Haltwhistle-burn.
-
-As the width of the defile, and the passage of the stream, render this a
-weak point in the barrier, the two lines of fortification approach very
-near to each other; they afterwards again diverge.
-
-Westward of Burn-head farm-house, the fosse is boldly developed, but the
-Wall is traceable only in the ruins of its foundation. As we proceed
-onwards to Great Chesters, the foundations of a mile-castle which has
-stood half to the north of the Wall, and half within it, may be, though
-not without careful scrutiny, observed. The tower which formerly stood
-at Portgate is the only other known example of a similar arrangement.
-
-
-[Sidenote: GREAT CHESTERS.]
-
-ÆSICA, or Great Chesters, is the tenth stationary camp on the line of
-the Wall. Its superficial contents are 3 acres, 35 poles. The ramparts
-and fosse are clearly defined. The southern gateway may be traced; it is
-nearer the eastern than the western side. A double rampart of earth
-seems to have given additional security to the western side, which, by
-situation, is the weakest. A vaulted room in the centre of the camp
-still answers very correctly to the description given of it in 1800 by
-Dr. Lingard, (quoted by Hodgson, II. iii. 203.)
-
- It is 6½ feet square, and 5 feet high. It was descended by steps, and
- had, at the opposite end to its entrance, a sort of bench, raised on
- mason work, 2½ feet wide and high, and covered with a slab of stone.
- The roof consisted of six similar and contiguous arches of stone, each
- 15 inches broad. It had also one pillar. The floor had on it a great
- quantity of ashes, was flagged, and on raising one of the stones, a
- spring gushed out, which converted the vault into a well.
-
-About one hundred and fifty yards south of the station, in a field which
-has for years been furrowed by the plough, the remains of a building of
-somewhat rude construction have just been discovered. Its floor,
-consisting, for the most part, of the usual compost, is nearly a foot
-thick. Further examination would probably disclose, in its vicinity, the
-foundations of numerous suburban buildings.
-
-An ancient road leads from the southern gateway of the station to the
-great military way which ran from CILURNUM to MAGNA.
-
-[Sidenote: ÆSICA.]
-
-The station of ÆSICA, according to the Notitia, was about the year 430,
-garrisoned by the _cohors prima Astorum_.[115] Horsley (writing in 1731)
-observes, that no inscriptions had been found here mentioning the first
-cohort of the Asti, or any other cohort. In 1761, however, an
-inscription was dug up in this station, which is now deposited in the
-museum at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, recording that in the reign of Alexander
-Severus (200 years before the date of the Notitia) the ‘cohors secunda
-Asturum’ rebuilt a granary here which had fallen into decay from
-age—‘horreum vetustate conlabsum.’ It is to be observed that the
-spelling of ‘Asturum’ is similar to that of the inscription at CILURNUM,
-and we do not find that the _second_ cohort, either of the Asti or
-Astures, is mentioned elsewhere as part of the Roman auxiliary forces in
-Britain.
-
-Near the eastern gateway of the station there has been lately dug up a
-large mural tablet, shewn in the wood-cut, and bearing the following
-inscription:
-
-[Illustration:
-
- IMP. CÆS. TRAI[A]N. HADRIA
- NO AVG. P[ATRI] P[ATRIÆ].
-
- To the emperor Cæsar Trajanus Hadria-
- nus Augustus, the father of his country.
-]
-
-It is not probable that this slab has been derived from the Vallum,
-which is upwards of a quarter of a mile from the station.[116] Why the
-upper part of the tablet was left blank does not appear; enough,
-however, has been inserted to support the theory, that Hadrian built the
-Wall. Although several of the stations were probably built before the
-Wall, and were quite independent of it, this can scarcely have been one
-of them; its position seems to indicate that it was called into
-existence in order to accommodate the mural garrison.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- _SURVEYED BY I. T. W. BELL 1860_ _A. Reid’s Lithog. 117
- Pilgrim St. Newcastle._
- Plan of
- AN ANCIENT WATER COURSE EXTENDING FROM
- SAUGHY BIG WASH POOL TO ÆSICA GREAT-CHESTERS.
-]
-
-[Sidenote: ETYMOLOGY OF ÆSICA.]
-
-Celtic authorities all agree in tracing the name ÆSICA to a word
-signifying _water_. The propriety of such an appellation does not at
-first sight appear. The camp is far from either the eastern or western
-sea; no lake is visible from its ramparts; the only water which is near
-is the Haltwhistle-burn, a somewhat tiny stream. The low ground to the
-south has a fenny aspect, but the station itself stands high and dry,
-though upon a part of the mural ridge less elevated than usual. It is
-not improbable that it may have derived its name from an aqueduct which
-leads the water from the Greenlee-lough to the camp. As this
-water-course has hitherto escaped the notice of writers upon the Wall,
-and is a work of considerable interest, a somewhat detailed description
-of it may be allowable.
-
-
- THE WATER-COURSE AT ÆSICA.
-
- The camp, though not greatly elevated, stands higher than the ground,
- either north or south of it. The country to the north, though
- generally flat, is studded with numerous hills of moderate elevation.
- On the sides of some of these, about two-thirds up, may be noticed a
- line that reminds the spectator of the parallel roads in Glenroy and
- other places. On examination, it is found to be an artificial cutting,
- made with evident reference to the maintenance of the water level. The
- sections given in Plate XVI., shew its size and form. In some places
- the water stands in it yet; in others a mass of peat fills it; and
- very frequently, where the channel has been obliterated, its course is
- shewn by a line of rushes, which grow on the damp ground. Wherever the
- water-course can be distinctly discerned, it has been laid down in the
- accompanying plan by a green line; where the traces of it are lost,
- the line of the water level has been pursued, and is indicated by dots
- of the same colour.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WATER-COURSE.]
-
- The whole length of the water-course is six miles; the distance in a
- straight line is little more than two miles and a quarter. It takes
- its commencement at the Saughy-rig-washpool, which is formed by the
- occasional damming up of the Caw-burn, at about a mile from its exit
- from the Greenlee-lough. In the immediate vicinity of the burn, the
- side of the water-course next the rivulet which would be endangered by
- the overflowing of the natural stream, is made up with flat stones put
- in endwise, some of which still remain as shewn in the section at B,
- in the plan. In its course to the station, in order at once to
- preserve the level, and avoid the necessity of using forced
- embankments or stone aqueducts, it is taken along the sides of the
- moderately elevated hills which rise from the plain. So ingeniously is
- this done, that once only has it been necessary to cross a valley by
- an artificial mound of earth. This has been at a spot between the
- third and fourth mile of the water-course, and which is still known in
- the district by the name of Benks-bridge, though probably few of the
- inhabitants are aware of the evident origin of the term. Some
- ingenuity has been employed in fixing the site of this mound. It is
- placed in that part of the valley where there is a slight descent on
- each side of it; the drainage of the surface is thus provided for
- without the use of a culvert; the surface water on the west, naturally
- making for the Halt-whistle-burn, that on the east for the river
- Tipalt. The mound which has taken the water-course across the valley
- at Benks-bridge has entirely disappeared, having probably been
- absorbed, in the course of ages, by the mossy ground on which it
- stood. The whole fall of the water-course, reckoning from the
- Wash-pool to the bottom of the arched chamber in the centre of the
- station is thirty feet. This is distributed over its entire length in
- the way shewn in the following table:—
-
- ft. in. m. f. c. ft. in.
-
- Commencing at A 0 0 At 2 6 0½ 11 10 fall
-
- m. f. c. 2 7 5 E 14 4 ”
-
- 0 0 6 B 2 10 fall. 3 0 0 21 6 ”
-
- 0 1 5 3 10 ” 3 0 3 23 7 ”
-
- 0 2 4 3 7 ” 3 0 6 23 5 ”
-
- 0 3 4½ 3 7 ” 3 1 3 29 10 ”
-
- 0 4 9 3 6 ” 3 3 5 25 3 ”
-
- 0 6 0 3 7 ” 3 5 0 North end, 25 4 ”
- Benks-bridge.
-
- 0 7 8½ 4 0 ” 3 5 0 South end, 29 7 ”
- Do.
-
- 1 0 6½ 4 1½ ” 4 1 5 29 9 ”
-
- 1 1 3½ 3 7 ” 4 5 8 29 11 ”
-
- 1 3 2½ 3 6 ” 5 3 5½ 28 6 ”
-
- 1 4 0 C 3 10 ” 5 4 4 28 11 ”
-
- 2 0 5 5 9 ” 5 5 5 29 0 ”
-
- 2 1 6½ 11 4 ” 6 0 0 Present 30 4 ”
- bottom of
- arched
- chamber in
- centre of
- station.
-
- 2 2 9½ D 11 2 ”
-
- The nature of the ground threw considerable difficulties in the way of
- the engineer, which accounts for the exceedingly tortuous nature of
- the track pursued. It is indeed remarkable that without the aid of
- accurate levelling instruments, any one could be so fully assured that
- the requisite fall existed as to venture upon the task of its
- formation. The workmen in the execution of the design probably drew
- the water along with them as they proceeded. In one place, (G) they
- seem to have made too free with the fall, and after proceeding for
- some distance, (upwards of a furlong) have retraced their steps, and
- constructed the cutting at a higher level. In crossing the valleys,
- there is sometimes an unusual loss of fall. This is particularly the
- case at the third mile (E) where there is a difference in the level of
- the course, on the opposite side of the slack, of nearly ten feet.
- This valley is permeated by a streamlet, and to take the water across
- it at the level previously preserved, a stone aqueduct would have been
- necessary. Appearances seem to indicate that an easier plan was
- adopted. A dam being formed across the hanging side of the valley, the
- water of the course was allowed to deliver itself freely into it, and
- eventually rising after the manner of a mill-head to the level of the
- course on the western side, pursued its way as before. That this plan
- was the result of a change in the design of the architect seems
- evident, for on the eastern side of the valley a second cutting (E)
- has been made at a lower level than the other, apparently with the
- view of leading the water more gradually to the lower point.
-
- Unfortunately all traces of the water-course are lost for some
- distance before approaching the station, so that it cannot be
- ascertained where it entered it, if it did so at all.
-
- That some important object was gained by the formation of so long a
- cutting is undoubted, but what that object was is a perplexing
- question. It can scarcely be supposed that the garrison at ÆSICA were
- dependent for their daily supply of so important an article as water
- upon an open cutting outside the Barrier. The feeblest of their foes
- could, in an instant, cut off the provision. No doubt the country, for
- some distance north of the Wall, was held in subjection by the Roman
- forces, but when the Wall was built, and the station planned, such was
- not the case. The station itself is not destitute of water. A well,
- sunk some years ago, to the depth of twenty-four feet, yields to the
- tenants of the farm-house an unfailing supply. I am disposed to think
- that the water brought by the cutting was to give to the north rampart
- of the station the advantage of a wet ditch. By throwing an embankment
- across the depression on the north of the station, as it begins to
- slope down to the bed of the Haltwhistle-burn, a considerable body of
- water would lodge here. The station of ÆSICA was an important one. In
- a particularly wild district, at an unusual distance from the great
- lines of Roman communication, and close beside the great opening in
- the mural ridge, by which the waters of the Forest of Lowes effect a
- passage to the low grounds, it would be peculiarly exposed to the
- attacks of the enemy. Although somewhat elevated above the ground
- north of the Wall, it is not so much so as to be impregnable on that
- quarter. A body of water collected here to keep the enemy at a still
- greater distance might not be beneath the attention of the garrison.
- Any temporary interference with the aqueduct would in this case be
- productive of no inconvenience. The existence of a water-course on the
- enemy’s side of the Wall at HUNNUM, which may have served a similar
- purpose, has already been noticed. At BREMENIUM, High Rochester, some
- guttered stones, covered with flags, were recently found lying in a
- direction which led to the supposition, that they brought water from
- some springs outside the station to the eastern moat.
-
- In the Archæologia Æliana[117] is a plan and description of an ancient
- aqueduct, which brought water from some distant rivulets to the
- station at Lanchester. It consists of two branches, the longer of
- which is nearly four miles in extent. Earthen embankments, to preserve
- the level, are occasionally used in both of them, and, as they run
- over sandy ground, the bottom of them has been puddled. The two lines,
- after uniting, deliver their water into a reservoir outside the
- station, near to its south-west corner. That the water of this
- aqueduct cannot have been used for domestic purposes appears from what
- Hodgson, the author of the paper, adds—‘Several wells have, from time
- to time, been discovered here by labourers, on the outside of the
- walls, and there is a plentiful spring at a short distance from where
- the bath stood.’
-
- Whatever may have been the object served, the water-course at ÆSICA is
- a striking memorial of the skill, forethought, and industry of the
- Roman garrisons. At the present day, in a highly civilized country,
- and after the enjoyment of a long period of internal peace, we are but
- beginning to see the necessity of bringing water from a distance into
- our large towns. An individual garrison, exposed to all the hazards of
- war, scrupled not, even fourteen or sixteen centuries ago, for some
- purpose which they thought important, to cut a water-course six miles
- long!
-
- It is not a little remarkable too, that after the lapse of so long a
- period, the cutting should be distinctly visible through so large a
- portion of its track.
-
- The view which is here taken of the object of the water-course is not
- given because it is absolutely satisfactory, but because it presents
- the fewest difficulties. We might have expected that if a miniature
- lake had been formed on the north of the station, some remains of the
- embankment necessary to confine its waters would appear; none are,
- however, to be observed. The soil, on being turned up, has not the
- black and sludgy aspect, which might be anticipated, but is of a
- yellow hue; the bottom of a pond at Wall-mill, which was drained
- within living memory, has, however, a precisely similar appearance.
-
-To the south of Great Chesters is Wall-mill, near to which the burying
-ground of the station seems to have been. Brand observed here several
-remarkable barrows, and was shewn some of the graves which had been
-opened. ‘They consisted,’ he tells us, ‘of side stones set down into the
-earth, and covered at top with other larger stones.’ He took them to be
-very early Christian sepulchres; this is more than doubtful. The
-progress of agricultural improvement has obliterated all traces of the
-cemetery; to one, however, of its sepulchral monuments reference will
-afterwards be made.
-
-The Romans systematically avoided intra-mural interments. The following
-is one of the laws of the Twelve Tables:
-
- HOMINEM MORTUUM IN URBE NE SEPELITO NEVE URITO.
-
-It is remarkable that at so early a period of the history of the
-republic, attention should have been turned to this subject, and that in
-a digest of legislation so brief as that referred to, this should form
-one of the enactments.
-
-
-[Sidenote: COCK-MOUNT-HILL.]
-
-Shortly after leaving ÆSICA, the crags again appear, and the Wall
-ascends the heights. At Cock-mount-hill, about a quarter of a mile
-forward, the Murus is four or five feet high. On the Ollalee ground, it
-is six and seven feet high, and shews on the north, nine courses of
-facing-stones; at another place, ten courses appear, and the height is
-six feet four inches.[118] The earth-works are seen in the valley below,
-covered with the whin, called by botanists, _Genista Anglica_. The
-continuous sandstone ridge is deeply scarred with ancient quarries.[119]
-Here the view is most extensive, Skiddaw, Crossfell, and other
-celebrated summits, shewing themselves conspicuously on the south, and
-Burnswark, a peculiar flat-topped eminence, and several more distant
-hills, on the north. A truncated pyramid of stones and earth, used by
-the ordnance surveyors,[120] has been left upon the elevated ridge,
-called Mucklebank-crag.
-
-[Sidenote: WALLTOWN-CRAGS.]
-
-The next defile that we reach is a very wide one, and is denominated
-Walltown crags. Walltown consists of a single house, which, though now
-occupied by the tenant of the farm, bears marks of having formerly been
-a place of strength, and the residence of persons of consideration.
-Ridley the Martyr refers with much affection in his valedictory letter
-to his brother who resided here:—
-
- Farewell, my dearly beloved brother John Ridley of the Waltoune, and
- you my gentle and loving sister, Elizabeth, whom, besides the natural
- league of amity, your tender love, which you were said ever to bear
- towards me above the rest of your brethren, doth bind me to love. My
- mind was to have acknowledged this your loving affection, and to have
- requited it with deeds, and not with words alone. Your daughter
- Elizabeth I bid farewell, whom I love for the meek and gentle spirit
- that God hath given her, which is a precious thing in the sight of
- God.
-
-In the crevices of the whin rock, near the house, chives grow
-abundantly. The general opinion of the country is, that they are the
-produce of plants cultivated by the Romans, who were much addicted to
-the use of this and kindred vegetables. This belief is but a
-modification of the more extended statements of our earliest writers on
-the Wall. Sampson Erdeswicke in 1574, says—
-
- The Skotts lyches, or surgeons, do yerely repayr to the sayd Roman
- Wall next to thes, (Caer Vurron) to gether sundry herbs for surgery,
- for that it is thought that the Romaynes there by had planted most
- nedefull herbes for sundry purposes, but howsoever it was, these
- herbes are fownd very wholesome.
-
-Camden gives an account precisely similar.
-
-On the eastern declivity of the gap, and near the line of the Wall, is a
-well, which, in the district, is generally called king Arthur’s Well.
-Brand, however, gives a different account of it:—
-
- At Walltown, I saw the well wherein Paulinus is said to have baptized
- king Ecfrid. It has evidently been enclosed, which indicates something
- remarkable in so open and wild a country. Some wrought stones lay near
- it. The water is very cool and fine.
-
-The western ascent is steep. Hutton tells us he was sometimes obliged to
-crawl on all fours. On the summit are evident traces of a mile-castle.
-
-[Illustration: Nine-nicks of Thirlwall]
-
-[Sidenote: NINE-NICKS OF THIRLWALL.]
-
-We now enter upon a most interesting part of the line. The mural ridge,
-divided by frequent breaks into as many isolated crags, is denominated
-the Nine Nicks of Thirlwall. The view from the edge of the cliff is
-extensive; stunted trees unite with the craggy character of the rock in
-giving variety to the foreground. The Wall adheres, with tolerable
-pertinacity, to the edge of the crags, and hence pursues a course that
-is by no means direct. The accompanying wood-cut, which exhibits the
-view looking eastwards, shews the zig-zag path which it adopts. Nearly
-all our historians agree in stating that the most perfect specimens of
-the Wall now remaining, are on Walltown crags. Certain it is that all
-who have examined the other parts of the Wall with care, will visit this
-with peculiar pleasure; but such are the varied features which each
-section of the Barrier presents, and the consequent interest which each
-excites, that it is difficult to determine which part, on the whole, is
-most worthy of attention.
-
-[Sidenote: WALLTOWN-CRAGS.]
-
-For a considerable distance along the crags, the Wall is in excellent
-preservation, presenting, on the north side, in several places, ten
-courses of facing-stones, and in one, twelve. In the highest part it is
-eight feet nine inches high, and nine feet thick. The military way may
-in many places be seen, avoiding very dexterously the more abrupt
-declivities of its rocky path.
-
-At length the cliffs, which extend in a nearly unbroken series from
-Sewingshields to Carvoran, sink into a plain, and the fertility and the
-beauty of a well-cultivated country re-appear.
-
-However pleasing the change, the traveller will not fail occasionally to
-look back upon the road he has trod, and view with secret satisfaction
-those bold and airy heights which so well symbolize the austere and
-undaunted spirit of that great people whose works he is contemplating;
-and when in after years, and it may be in some region far distant, the
-image of them rises in his imagination, he will be ready to exclaim—
-
- I feel the gales that from ye blow
- A momentary bliss bestow.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CARVORAN.]
-
-MAGNA, the modern Carvoran, lies to the south both of the Vallum and
-Wall. The nature of the ground in its neighbourhood seems to have
-dictated this arrangement. The Wall occupies the edge of a strip of
-elevated ground, the benefit of which, as a position of strength against
-an enemy, it was desirable not to lose. Had the station been placed as
-usual on the line of the Wall, the Vallum, in skirting its southern
-rampart, would have been brought into a swamp that occupies the valley
-between the high ground on which the Wall stands, and the somewhat
-commanding site of the station. Both the lines of the Barrier have
-therefore been allowed to pursue their parallel course nearly together,
-and the station has been placed about two hundred and fifty yards within
-the Wall, on a platform which is sufficiently defended on the south by
-the declivity that slopes from it to the modern village of Greenhead.
-
-It is not impossible, however, that MAGNA may have been one of
-Agricola’s forts, the valley, through which the river Tipalt flows,
-requiring the adoption of this method of resisting the aggressions of
-the Caledonians.
-
-The station has enclosed an area of four acres and a half. Having, a few
-years ago, been brought under tillage, it is with difficulty that even
-its outline can now be traced; some fragments of the north rampart,
-however, remain, and the north fosse is distinct.[121]
-
-[Sidenote: MAGNA.]
-
-In the front of the farm-house which was erected in the year—long to be
-remembered in these parts—1745, is built up a Roman altar, apparently
-without an inscription. In the garden, and behind the dwelling, are
-several other interesting memorials of Roman occupation. Amongst them
-are broken capitals and fragments of columns, moulded coping-stones,
-gutter-stones, and troughs, of various shapes and rude construction.
-Several bases of columns lie scattered about, the prevailing form of
-which is square, as shewn in Plate XIII., fig. 5; one of them is,
-however, of circular shape, and is ornamented with a cable-pattern
-moulding, resembling the Housesteads pedestal, given in Plate XI.[122]
-There are also preserved here a small altar, in perfect preservation,
-inscribed, D[E]O BE[L]ATVCADRO, some imperfect altars, several centurial
-stones, a broken effigy of the bird of Jove, a pair of bronze shears
-(figured of the full size on Plate XIV., fig. 1), evidently, from their
-proportions, meant to be handled by fair fingers, fragments of Samian
-ware and amphoræ, a few beads, and some implements of iron. Amongst the
-articles disinterred from the stations on the line, there are generally
-to be found numerous small flat circular implements, of which examples
-are engraved (of the full size) on Plate XI. They vary from half-an-inch
-to two inches in diameter, and have a circular hole in the centre. For
-the most part they are composed of sherds of Samian ware, occasionally,
-of jet, and of amber; at Carvoran are some of rude shape, made of
-imperfectly burnt clay and shale. Various conjectures have been hazarded
-respecting their use; the most probable is, that they were employed as
-tallies, the small beads representing units, the large, tens. In the inn
-at Glenwhelt are preserved a magnificent pair of stag’s horns, nearly
-perfect, which were found in the well of the station; each antler is a
-yard long. In the possession of the Society of Antiquaries,
-Newcastle-upon-Tyne, are several valuable inscribed stones derived from
-this station, which have been presented by Colonel Coulson of Blenkinsop
-Hall.
-
- _PLATE XIV._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- Lamp, Fibula, Shears, and Compasses
-]
-
-MAGNA, during the days of Roman occupation, must have been a place of
-considerable importance. Not only did the road which leads directly from
-CILURNUM, come up to it, but the Maiden-way, from Whitley Castle and the
-south, ran through it, as is supposed, to Bewcastle and the other
-stations north of the Wall, as shewn on the Map, Plate I.
-
-Rejoining the lines of the Barrier, we find them about to descend into
-the valley watered by the Tipalt, _insaniens flumen_, as Camden calls
-it. The moat of the Wall is peculiarly well developed, that of the
-Vallum, though less so, is still distinct; they are exactly parallel to
-each other. Before the traveller forsakes his present elevation, it will
-be well for him to mark the westward course of the objects of his study,
-lest he lose their track in the swampy ground fronting Thirlwall Castle.
-A valley of considerable extent stretches before him; on the north brow
-of it, at the distance of about three miles, Gilsland Spa is situated;
-the works of the Barrier stand upon its southern edge. The trough of the
-north fosse may easily be discerned where it is intersected by the
-railway.
-
-It has been suggested that one of the objects contemplated by the Romans
-in the construction of a double line of fortification, was the enclosure
-of a space of ground which might be cultivated by the garrison, and
-where their cattle might graze in security. If this had been the case,
-the Wall would have been drawn along the northern margin of the wide and
-fruitful valley of Gilsland, and the Vallum along its southern edge.
-
-[Sidenote: THIRLWALL CASTLE.]
-
-Thirlwall Castle is, as Hutchinson calls it, ‘a dark, melancholy
-fortress’ of the middle age.[123] It was for many centuries previous to
-its purchase by the ancestors of the earl of Carlisle, the residence of
-an ancient Northumbrian family of the name of Thirlwall. Amongst the
-witnesses examined on the occasion of the famous suit between the
-families of Scrope and Grosvenor, for the right to bear the shield
-‘azure, a bend or,’ which was opened at Newcastle-upon-Tyne in 1385,
-before king Richard II. in person, was John Thirlwall, an esquire of
-Northumberland. The witness related what he had heard on the subject of
-the dispute, from his father, who ‘died at the age of 145, and was when
-he died the oldest esquire in all the North, and had been in arms in his
-time sixty-nine years.’ Such is the language of the record of these
-proceedings, preserved in the Tower of London.
-
-This locality may also bring to the reader’s remembrance the lines in
-Marmion—
-
- The whiles a Northern harper rude
- Chaunted a rhyme of deadly feud,
- ‘_How the fierce Thirlwalls, and Ridleys all,
- Stout Willimondswick,
- And Hardriding Dick,
- And Hughie of Hawdon, and Will o’ the Wall,
- Have set on Sir Albany Featherstonhaugh,
- And taken his life at the Deadman’s-shaw_.’—
-
-It is not generally known that this ‘ancient ditty,’ which sir Walter
-Scott gives at length in a note as a genuine antique, is a modern
-fabrication, the production of his correspondent Surtees, the historian
-of Durham. The ballad, however, breathes the very spirit of the fierce
-borderers, or it would not have deceived so accomplished an antiquary as
-Scott.
-
-The walls of the castle are nine feet thick, and are faced, both inside
-and outside, with stones taken from the Roman Wall. It is a singular
-thing to see a building, formed out of a prior structure, itself in
-ruins, and becoming a prey to yet more modern depredators. The stones
-remain meanwhile, whether in the primeval structure, or in those of
-mediæval and recent date, as good as ever. Brand observes—
-
- There is built up near the inn at Glenwhelt, a most barbarous,
- gigantic head of stone, which is most certainly not Roman. It came
- from Thirlwall Castle, and has no doubt belonged to some of those
- hideous figures made use of anciently in such castles to frighten the
- distant enemy.
-
-Brand’s original still graces the vicinity of the inn, and its effigy,
-this page. Its ugliness is no proof that it is not Roman; but, after
-all, whose beauty would not be tarnished by exposure such as it has
-endured?
-
-[Illustration: Stone Effigy]
-
-[Sidenote: CENTRAL REGION OF THE BARRIER.]
-
-That portion of the line which lies between the Tipalt and the Irthing
-is probably weaker than any other between Wallsend and Bowness. Not only
-is the ground flat, but it is destitute of the aid which copious rivers
-give it, both at its eastern and western extremities. Throughout the
-whole of this district, both barriers keep close together. Except in the
-neighbourhood of Rose-hill, no portion of the stone Wall remains in all
-this tract.
-
-The country between the Tipalt and the Solway is characterized by a
-number of diluvial hills, not unfrequently resembling barrows. To the
-south of Brampton, they are so numerous and so nearly uniform in size
-and shape as to suggest to the playful imagination the idea of their
-being gigantic mole-hills. The occurrence of these in the line of the
-Barrier must have caused some trouble to the engineer of the Wall. The
-difficulty, however, was overcome. The first hill of this description
-that we meet with, occurs immediately westward of the point where the
-Newcastle and Carlisle railroad crosses the mural line. The Wall
-unhesitatingly ascends it on the one side, and descends it on the other,
-though it would scarcely have described a larger arc had it gone round
-its base.
-
-[Sidenote: VALLUM AT WALLEND.]
-
-About half-a-mile onward is a small village, called Wallend. The
-earth-works are, for a short distance, in an admirable state of
-preservation; nowhere else is the Vallum seen to greater advantage.
-
-A peculiarity in the relative position of the Wall and Vallum will here
-force itself upon the attention. The Wall, which, for the larger portion
-of its course, stands considerably above the Vallum, now takes a lower
-level, and for nearly the whole space between this point and the
-Irthing, is completely commanded by the earthen ramparts. The following
-diagram will give a general idea of the country, and of the mutual
-relation between the two structures. Had the Wall (A) and Vallum (B)
-been independent undertakings, this arrangement would not have been
-adopted. The earth-works ascribed to Hadrian having been found
-inefficient, would have been relentlessly cut in upon by the officers of
-Severus, who would doubtless have planted the Wall in those positions
-which were naturally the strongest, irrespective of any prior work. As
-it is, to give the Vallum the advantage of an eminence in resisting a
-southern foe, the Wall relinquishes a portion of the acclivity which it
-might with advantage have taken.
-
-[Illustration: Section of Works near Wallend]
-
-[Sidenote: CHAPEL HOUSE.]
-
-Chapel-house and Fowl-town, two contiguous farm-houses, are next met
-with in our course. Chapel-house is probably the site of a mile-castle,
-it having been constructed out of the materials of a [Illustration: Slab
-to Hadrian, by Leg. XX. V. V.] prior building, which boasted walls of
-great thickness. An inscribed stone, of which the woodcut is a copy, is
-to be seen lying in an out-house, from the walls of which it has
-recently been taken. The letters on one end have been worn away. The
-inscription may be read—
-
- NERVÆ N[EPOTI]
- TRA[IANO] HADRIA[NO]
- AVG[VSTO]
- LEG. XX. VV.
-
- To the grandson of Nerva,
- Trajanus Hadrianus
- Augustus,
- The twentieth legion, valiant and victorious.
-
-This is another testimony which recent research has brought to light, of
-the part which Hadrian and the twentieth legion bore in the
-construction, both of the Wall and the Vallum.
-
-At the village of Gap, the Vallum, which is very distinct, stands
-considerably above the Wall. The place is said to take its name from the
-Wall having been broken through here at an early period.
-
-Rose-hill is a hill no longer. The top of the diluvial mount was thrown
-into the surrounding hollow, in order to afford a site for the railway
-station, that has assumed the name of the summit which it displaced.
-
-[Sidenote: MUMP’S HALL.]
-
-In the immediate neighbourhood of Rose-hill is Mump’s-hall, formerly the
-residence of the Meg Merrilies of sir Walter Scott:—
-
- 'Mump’s-hall,' says Hodgson, 'according to tradition, was once a
- public-house, kept by a notorious person of the name of Meg Teasdale,
- who drugged to death such of her guests as had money. In Guy Mannering
- she glares in the horrid character of Meg Merrilies. But certainly all
- this tradition is deeply coloured with unpardonable slander against
- the ancient and respectable family of the Teasdales of Mump’s-hall.'
-
- Sir Walter Scott was in early life an occasional resident at Gilsland.
- The broad, flat stone is pointed out, a little above the Shaws Hotel,
- on which tradition asserts he was standing when he declared to the
- subsequent lady Scott the emotions which agitated his bosom. He had
- therefore the opportunity of becoming acquainted with the district and
- its traditions.
-
- The small thatched cottage, opposite to the road leading from the
- railway station, is usually pointed out as the residence of Meg, but
- it is not the one which was occupied by her. She lived in the larger
- building beyond, round which the road bends at a right angle. The
- front of the house is modernized, but the back of it still retains the
- character of a border fortress. My information upon this and other
- subjects respecting her, has been derived from an individual residing
- in the district, whose mother knew Meg well, and visited her upon her
- death-bed. Although the heroine of Mump’s-hall was cast in a mould
- somewhat suited to the state of the district at that time, she was not
- the fiend-like woman that she is generally represented. One murder,
- however, the tradition of the country lays to her charge. A pedlar
- having called upon Meg’s brother, who kept a school at Long Byers
- (mid-way between Rose-hill and Greenhead), accidentally presented to
- him a box filled with guineas instead of his snuff-box. The traveller
- was requested to convey a note to Mump’s-hall, which he did, but was
- not seen alive afterwards. Suspicion arising, the house was searched,
- and the body found concealed among hay in the barn; but the parties
- who made the discovery durst not reveal it, for fear of injury to
- themselves and families. About six weeks afterwards the body was found
- lying upon the moors. My informant added to his narrative—‘probably
- the laws were not so active in those days as at present, for these
- things could not escape now.’
-
- When Meg was upon her death-bed, the curiosity of the neighbourhood
- was excited, and many of her cronies visited her, in hopes of hearing
- her disburthen her conscience respecting the death of the pedlar. They
- were, however, disappointed; for whenever she attempted to speak upon
- the subject, some one of the family, who always took care to be
- present, placed a hand upon her mouth.
-
- Upper Denton church is hard by. It is evidently a very ancient
- building, and possibly exhibits some Saxon work. It is one of the
- smallest churches in England, and is as damp and mouldy as felons’
- dungeons used to be. Meg and several of the members of her family lie
- in the church-yard. Four tombstones, ranged in a row, mark their
- resting places.
-
-[Sidenote: POLTROSS-BURN.]
-
-The works of the Barrier are crossed by the railway a little to the west
-of Rose-hill station. The Wall here exhibits three or four courses of
-facing-stones. A little beyond this point, the lines, still clearly
-defined, cross the stream called Poltross-burn, which divides the
-counties of Northumberland and Cumberland. The gorge in which the stream
-flows is deep and well-wooded. There are no remains of a bridge in the
-valley, but traces of a mile-castle, by which the defile has been
-guarded, are distinct upon its western bank. Before reaching the
-Irthing, at a farm-house called Willowford, the site of another
-castellum may be discerned. From this point to the water’s edge, the
-Wall and Vallum have probably gone in close companionship; but this is a
-matter which cannot now be ascertained. The western bank of the river is
-lofty and precipitous. Consisting, as it does, chiefly of diluvial soil
-and gravel, on which the water of the stream below is continually
-acting, it is not surprising that all traces of the Wall, if it ever
-ascended the height, have long since disappeared. On the very brink of
-the precipice above, the remains of the Wall and fosse re-appear. The
-faithful followers of the Wall, who have closely pursued its track from
-the eastern sea, will not be willing to desert their companion, even for
-a brief space, at this point. The cliff, however, will test their
-constancy. Hutton had his troubles; he says, somewhat magniloquently—
-
-[Sidenote: PASSAGE OF THE IRTHING.]
-
- I had this river to cross, and this mountain to ascend, but I did not
- know how to perform either. I effected a passage over the river by the
- assistance of stones as large as myself, sometimes in and sometimes
- out; but, with difficulty, reached the summit of the precipice by a
- zig-zag line, through the brambles, with a few scratches.
-
-The latest historian of the Wall attempted to ascend the bank in a right
-line; he has given us the result of his experience, as a warning to
-others.
-
- None of the party completely succeeded in ascending the precipitous
- bank by the course of the Wall. The attempt is very dangerous, and, as
- success accomplishes nothing, should never be tried by those whose
- life and existence are in any way useful.
-
-On the top of the cliff is a mile-castle. To the north, two conical
-summits appear, which strongly resemble barrows. We now approach
-Birdoswald, the twelfth station on the line.
-
-[Sidenote: AMBOGLANNA.]
-
-AMBOGLANNA, the Birdoswald of the present day, is an interesting
-station. [Illustration: alt=Altar to Jupiter, by Coh. I. Ael. Dac.]
-Numerous inscriptions have been found within its walls, mentioning the
-first cohort of the Dacians, surnamed the Ælian, which, according to the
-Notitia, was quartered at AMBOGLANNA. One of them, in the possession of
-Robert Bell, esq., of the Nook, Irthington, is here figured.
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- ET N[VMINIBVS] AVG[VSTI]
- COH[ORS] PRIMA AEL[IA]
- DAC[ORVM] CVI PR[ÆEST]
- GALLICVS
- TR[I]B[VNVS]
-
- To Jupiter, the best and greatest,
- And the deities of Augustus,
- The first cohort (the Ælian)
- Of the Dacians, commanded by
- Gallicus,
- The Tribune.
-
-The name AMBOGLANNA seems to signify, the circling glen. The former part
-of the word, meaning _about_, is met with in most of the western
-languages; as the Welsh _am_, the Irish and Gaelic _umain_, the Saxon
-_ymb_ or _embe_, the Greek αμφι, and the Latin (in compound words)
-_amb_. _Glanna_ is obviously synonymous with the modern _glen_, a term
-of very frequent use in the land of the Gäel.
-
-Here the name has been most appropriately bestowed. The camp stands upon
-the precipitous edge of a tongue of land, which, on every side except
-the west, is severed from the adjoining ground by deep scars. Hodgson
-describes the spot with great accuracy—
-
- The Irthing, in front of the station, makes two grand and sweeping
- turns, under red scars, which have rich flat grounds before them,
- deeply fringed along the margin of the river with a border of alder,
- heckberry (_Prunus Padus_, or bird-cherry,) and other upland trees.
- When the banks are not steep, they are deeply wooded: and diluvial
- hills, rounded into vast and beautiful varieties of form, present to
- the eye rich sylvan and cultivated scenes, while their component
- parts, as the river passes their sides, expose to the geologist
- rounded specimens of the different kinds of rocks to be found in the
- plains of Cumberland, and the high mountains that lie on each side of
- the Firth of the Solway.
-
-[Sidenote: BIRDOSWALD.]
-
-The modern name presents greater difficulties than the ancient one. Had
-king Oswald been a denizen of these parts, which he was not, we might
-have supposed that Birdoswald was a _burgh_ of his. The name is one of
-old standing, but the etymology of it can only be a subject of
-conjecture.[124]
-
-The station contains an area of between five and six acres. The walls
-are in an unusually good state of preservation; the southern rampart
-shewing eight courses of facing-stones. Camden’s statement is still true
-to the letter;—‘it has been surrounded with a stately wall of
-free-stone, about five feet thick, as may be fairly measured at this
-day.’ The moat which surrounded the wall may also be satisfactorily
-traced.
-
-Although the Wall adapts itself to the north rampart of the fort, the
-station is entirely independent of the Wall (see the wood-cut _p._ 84),
-and must have been built before it. Probably the first step taken in the
-construction of the Barrier, in every case, was the erection of the
-stationary camps.
-
-The Vallum cannot now be traced in the immediate vicinity of the
-station; but Gordon tells us, that it came close up to the southern
-rampart.
-
-[Illustration: West Gateway, Birdoswald, Amboglanna]
-
-The southern gateway may be discerned, though it is encumbered with
-rubbish; the eastern and western have recently been divested of much of
-the matter that has for ages obscured them. The wood-cut, representing
-the western portal, as seen from the inside, exhibits the pivot-holes of
-the gates, and the ruts worn by the chariots or wagons of the Romans.
-The ruts are nearly four feet two inches apart, the precise gauge of the
-chariot marks in the east gateway at Housesteads. The more perfect of
-the pivot-holes exhibits a sort of spiral grooving, which seems to have
-been formed with a view of rendering the gate self-closing. The aperture
-in the sill of the doorway, near the lower jamb, has been made
-designedly, as a similar vacuity occurs in the eastern portal; perhaps
-the object of it has been to allow of the passage of the surface water
-from the station.
-
-The whole area of the camp is marked with the lines of streets and the
-ruins of buildings. The present farm-house occupies, according to
-Horsley, the site of the pretorium. On the east side of the southern
-gateway are the remains of a kiln for drying corn; the stones are
-reddened by fire. Near the eastern gateway a building, furnished with a
-hypocaust, has been partially excavated. From its ruins a sculptured
-figure, draped, and in a sitting posture, has recently been taken. The
-head and other highly relieved parts were found to have been broken off:
-it remains on the ground.
-
-[Illustration: Mural Stone, Leg. VI. V. F.]
-
-A large altar with an inscription, which is in a great measure
-illegible, lies within the walls of the camp. A stone broken in two
-pieces, and which is preserved on the spot, bears testimony to the
-presence of the sixth legion here; it may be read, LEGIO SEXTA VICTRIX
-FIDELIS—The Sixth legion the Victorious and Faithful.
-
-[Sidenote: AMBOGLANNA.]
-
-The boldness of the lettering, and the depth and clearness of the
-cutting, give reason to suppose that the inscription is of early date.
-Besides these, several centurial stones, mill-stones, and coping-stones,
-as well as portions of tile, and fragments of pottery, are preserved in
-the farm-house, and yield to the visitor indubitable proofs of Roman
-occupation. In draining the field to the west of the station, many small
-altars, without inscriptions, have been found, which were remorselessly
-broken, and used with other materials for filling the drains. Strange,
-that altars before which Romans of ‘fierce countenance’ have bowed,
-should be put to such a use!
-
- Imperious Cæsar, dead, and turned to clay,
- Might stop a hole to keep the wind away:
- O, that the earth which kept the world in awe,
- Should patch a wall to expel the winter’s flaw!
-
-On the east of the station are extensive and well-defined marks of
-suburban buildings.
-
-The accompanying lithograph is taken from the western side of the
-station. It well represents the chilly and somewhat forbidding aspect of
-this now nearly deserted place.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey, Lith.
- BIRDOSWALD, WESTERN RAMPART.
- Printed by W. Monkhouse, York.
-]
-
-Westward of Birdoswald, the Wall is in an unusually good state of
-preservation. Taking into account, not only the height, but the length
-of the fragment, and the completeness of the facing-stones on both
-sides, it may be pronounced the finest specimen of the great structure
-that now remains. Some portions of it, however, are beginning to exhibit
-evident signs of decrepitude and decay.
-
-[Illustration: Section of Works, Wallbours]
-
-Within a short mile of the station, the remains of a castellum appear.
-Here the Vallum exhibits the unusual feature of a second ditch, as is
-represented in the subjoined section.[125] Hodgson says—
-
- Through a bog, about a mile west of AMBOGLANNA, the Vallum has had two
- ditches, probably intended for draining the military road that ran
- between them. They are still very distinct.
-
-A careful examination of the spot induces me to think, that the
-additional fortification was intended to give increased security to a
-defile, which, running from the vicinity of the Wall to the bed of the
-Irthing below, renders the works in this part more than usually liable
-to attack from the south.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WORKS AT WALLBOURS.]
-
-At the western extremity of this extra ditch, the Wall and Vallum come
-into close proximity; the space between them was, with the exception of
-room for the military way, occupied by the foundations of a castellum.
-The place bears the name of Wallbours.
-
-The Barrier next crosses a small hill called the Pike. The Vallum is a
-little below the summit of the eminence, on its southern side; if this
-fortification had been formed irrespective of the Wall, it would
-doubtless have been drawn along the top of the height. The same remark
-applies to Hare-hill.
-
-The view from the Pike, of the flat and fertile vale below is truly
-magnificent.
-
-[Sidenote: THE WALL AT HARE-HILL.]
-
-Soon after passing Banks-burn, we arrive at Hare-hill, where a portion
-of the Wall stands nine feet ten inches in height. This is the highest
-piece of the Wall that is anywhere to be met with; but, owing to the
-smallness of the fragment, and to its being entirely deprived of
-facing-stones, it is less imposing than it would otherwise be. Hutton’s
-enthusiasm, however, never fails him; his remark at Hare-hill is—
-
- I viewed this relick with admiration: I saw no part higher.
-
-At this point of our progress, the antiquary may be disposed to turn
-aside for a little, to view two relics of the mediæval period of great
-interest—Lanercost Priory and Naworth Castle. The priory is a beautiful
-specimen of the early English style, and bears architectural evidence of
-having been built somewhere between the years 1155 and 1160. Besides the
-church, partially in ruins and partially in repair, the refectory and
-some portions of the monastic buildings remain. The whole structure has
-been formed of stones taken from the Roman Wall. In addition to some
-altars preserved in the crypt of the church, several centurial and
-carved stones are to be seen in the walls of the adjacent buildings.
-
-[Sidenote: NAWORTH CASTLE.]
-
-Naworth Castle, though still an interesting building, is destitute of
-some of the attractions which it once possessed. The Roman altars and
-other primeval monuments collected by lord William Howard, have long
-been dispersed, and a fire in 1844, almost entirely destroyed the
-baronial residence of that renowned border-chief, which, until that
-event, remained nearly in the state in which it was in his own day. The
-dungeons, however, in which the daring moss-troopers were immured,
-remain, and two magnificent oak trees near the grand entrance still
-extend those brawny arms on which, according to tradition, lord William
-suspended the victims of his lawless power. The load of twenty gasping
-wretches would not materially weigh down the larger boughs of these fine
-trees. That the government of lord William—the Belted Will of Border
-tales—was of a vigorous character, there cannot be a doubt; but that he
-used his power capriciously, cruelly, or tyrannically, there is no
-evidence. Lord William seems to have sent the most desperate of his
-prisoners to Newcastle-upon-Tyne or Carlisle. They would probably have
-as good a chance for life at Belted Will’s tribunal as at the assizes of
-either of these towns, if we may judge of the state of feeling towards
-them from North’s Life of Lord-keeper Guildford. His lordship, then sir
-Francis North, came to Newcastle, on the northern circuit, in 1676. His
-biographer says—
-
- The country is yet very sharp upon thieves; and a violent suspicion,
- there, is next to conviction. When his lordship held the assizes at
- Newcastle, there was one Mungo Noble, supposed to be a great thief,
- brought to trial before his lordship, upon four several indictments;
- and his lordship was so much a south-country judge as not to think any
- of them well proved. One was for stealing a horse of a person unknown,
- and the evidence amounted to no more than that a horse was seen
- feeding upon the heath near his shiel, and none could tell who was the
- owner of it. In short the man escaped, much to the regret of divers
- gentlemen, who _thought he deserved_ to be hanged, and that was
- enough. While the judge at the trial discoursed of the evidence and
- its defects, a Scotch gentleman upon the bench, who was a border
- commissioner, made a long neck towards the judge and said—'My laird,
- send him to huzz, and ye’s ne'er see him mair.'
-
-On rejoining the Barrier, we find, that though the line of the Wall, in
-its course to the Eden, may yet be distinctly discerned, in very few
-instances any portion of the masonry remains.
-
-[Sidenote: MONEY-HOLES.]
-
-The site of a mile-castle nearly opposite Lanercost Priory, is termed
-Money-holes, in consequence of the efforts made to discover some
-treasure supposed to be concealed in it. At Crag-hill the north ditch is
-very bold. At Hayton-gate, a drove road, probably an ancient pass,
-crosses the line of the Wall from north to south. At Randilands the
-north fosse is still well developed. After crossing the rivulet, called
-Burtholme-beck, a piece of the Wall is seen, which stands about seven
-feet high; its facing-stones are gone, but the rough pebbly mortar
-possesses its original tenacity. As is often the case, the ruin is
-tufted with hazel bushes and stunted specimens of the alder and oak. The
-Vallum is about seventy yards to the south of the Wall.
-
-Approaching Low-wall,[126] something like an out-work appears on the
-north side of the Barrier. Has there been a double line of wall here?
-After crossing a road, denominated Friar-wain-gate, which leads from
-Bewcastle to Lanercost, we reach another house called Wall; Roman masons
-might claim many of the stones as theirs. At How-gill is a cottage,
-where probably a mile-castle stood to defend the ‘beck,’ In the modern
-structure may be observed stones broached in the Roman fashion, and
-others variously tooled by Roman hands.
-
-The farm-house of Dove-cote is on the eastern bank of the King-water.
-The fosse and the foundation of the Murus are seen crossing the hill on
-the northern side of the summit: the Vallum, which is indistinctly
-marked, probably took a corresponding position on the southern side.
-
-[Sidenote: WALTON.]
-
-The village of Walton, by its very name, bears testimony to its
-relationship with the great Barrier-line. Many of the stones of the Wall
-may be detected in its cottages. One of its dwellings furnishes a good
-specimen of the mode of cottage-building formerly prevalent in the
-North. The rafters of the house, which consist of large and
-rudely-shaped pieces of timber, instead of resting upon the walls, come
-down to the ground; they are tied together near the top by a transverse
-beam, and the mud walls, as well as the thatched roof, partially depend
-upon them for support. Horsley says, 'at Wal-town there seems to have
-been some fortification or encampment. One side of the square is yet
-very visible, and the ramparts pretty large, about eighty yards long. It
-is high ground and dry. Perhaps it has been a summer encampment or
-exploratory post for the garrison at Cambeck.'
-
-At Sandysike farm-house the foundation of the Wall as well as abundant
-traces of mural vicinage are to be seen. The barn consists of Roman
-stones marked with the diamond-broaching. Several sculptured stones are
-built up in the garden-wall; amongst them is one which displays the
-thunderbolt of Jove; the wall-fruit peacefully rests upon it. Another,
-exhibiting the wheel of Nemesis, the emblem of swift justice, and which
-no doubt once formed part of an altar to Jupiter, is built into a
-pig-sty. A mill-stone of peculiar shape, and closely resembling one at
-Naworth Castle, is preserved on the grounds; it is probably Roman.
-
-
-[Sidenote: PETRIANA.]
-
-PETRIANA, the Cambeck-fort of Horsley, and the Castle-steads of the
-locality, is to the south of the Vallum and Wall. A deep scar separates
-it from the lines of the Barrier. The site of the station may be
-recognised, but it is long since its ramparts were overthrown, and the
-ruined buildings of the interior entirely obliterated.
-
-Its rich soil and sunny exposure recommended it to the father of the
-present proprietor of Walton-house as a fitting site for a garden, and
-such it is at the present day. It has yielded many altars and[Sidenote:
-CAMBECK-FORT.] sculptured stones, some of which are still preserved upon
-the spot, and from time to time the spade still reveals to the
-numismatist, treasures, over the loss of which, Romans in ancient days
-may have mourned, though not in a degree proportioned to their present
-value. Wood-cuts of three of the coins which have been found at
-Castlesteads are here introduced, as they commemorate the family of a
-man whose name is intimately connected with the Wall. They are in the
-cabinet of Robert Bell, esq., of Irthington.
-
-[Illustration: Coin of Severus, Julia]
-
- JULIA, the second wife of Severus, and the mother of Caracalla and
- Geta. Severus, who was a believer in astrology, on the death of his
- first wife, looked out for another whose nativity was favourable to
- the ambitious views which he at that time entertained. He heard of a
- woman in Syria whose destiny it was to marry a king, and accordingly
- solicited and obtained in marriage Julia Domna.
-
-[Illustration: Coin of Caracalla]
-
- BASSIANUS, commonly called Caracalla. He was created Cæsar by his
- father, A.D. 196, when he took the names of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus.
- In A.D. 198, he was invested with the dignity of Augustus. Amongst his
- other titles, he bore the name of Britannicus, as is shewn on the
- coin. The engraver of the die from which this coin was struck, has
- probably given a correct likeness of his subject; at least, he has
- represented an individual who appears capable of attempting an aged
- father’s life, and of imbruing his hands in the blood of a brother.
- Vengeance at length overtook him.
-
-[Illustration: Coin of Geta]
-
- GETA, who, together with his brother Caracalla, accompanied his father
- to Britain. He was murdered by Caracalla A.D. 212.
-
-The finest of the altars, standing in the garden of Walton-house, is
-here engraved. The thunderbolt of Jupiter adorns one side of it, the
-wheel of Nemesis the other. The inscription has been read by Mr. Thomas
-Hodgson, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, in the following way, after a careful
-and learned examination of it, and kindred inscriptions.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Jupiter, Coh. II. Tungr.]
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- COH[ORS] SECVNDA TVNGR[ORVM]
- M[ILLIARIA] EQ[ITATA] C[IVIVM] L[ATINORVM] CVI
- PRAEEST ALB[VS]
- SEVERVS PR-
- AEF[ECTVS] TVNG[RORVM] IN-
- STA[NTE] VIC[TORE] SEVRO
- PRINCIPI
-
-
- To Jupiter, the best and greatest,
- The second cohort of the Tungrians,
- A milliary _regiment_, having a proportionate supply of horse, _and
- consisting of_ citizens of Latium,
- Commanded by Albus
- Severus, pre-
- fect of the Tungrians, _erects this_;
- The work being superintended by Victor Sevrus (or Severus), the
- princeps.[127]
-
-[Sidenote: PETRIANA.]
-
-The Notitia places the ‘Ala Petriana,’ under a prefect, at PETRIANA.
-Although two inscriptions belonging to this place mention the second
-cohort of the Tungri, none have been found here which name the Ala
-Petriana. It is possible that this cohort may have been a part of the
-Ala Petriana, but until this point be settled, or some further light
-thrown upon the subject, the occurrence of Cambeck-fort[Sidenote:
-CAMBECK-FORT.] next in order to AMBOGLANNA, must be regarded as the best
-evidence of its being the PETRIANA of the Notitia.
-
-[Illustration: View of Pigeon Crag]
-
-[Sidenote: WRITTEN-ROCK OF GELT.]
-
-Before crossing the Cambeck-water it may be well to remind the reader,
-that the river Gelt, on whose rocky banks the Roman quarrymen have left
-lettered memorials of their toil, is about four miles to the south of
-this place. With the view of clearly displaying the inscription, which
-has frequently been inaccurately engraved, the lithograph opposite to
-page 81, has been drawn to a scale which precludes the possibility of
-shewing the height of the cliff. The adjoining wood-cut partly supplies
-this deficiency; it exhibits another inscription, not of a very
-intelligible.[Sidenote: PIGEON-CRAG.] character, on the Pigeon-crag,
-which is a little higher up the water, and shews the general character
-of the scenery on this beautiful stream.
-
-The distance of these quarries on the Gelt, from the line of the
-Barrier, renders it very questionable whether large supplies were
-derived from them for the Wall. Hodgson remarks—
-
- The quarry at Helbeck-scar (the Written-rock) might serve for the
- largest stones for part of the Murus, and the stations at
- Brampton-old-church, and Walton-castlesteads; for the general purpose
- of the Murus, stone, however, could be got in places much nearer than
- Helbeck-scar.
-
-At the quarries of High and Low Breaks, about a mile and a half north of
-the Wall, there are marks of extensive ancient workings; the quarries
-are still in use and yield stone of good quality.
-
-The Written-rock will not be easily found by a stranger, but directions
-and assistance may generally be obtained from the workmen employed upon
-a modern quarry, which is not far from the spot.
-
-
-[Sidenote: HEADSWOOD.]
-
-We now rejoin the Barrier. The passage of the Cambeck-water seems to
-have been guarded with some care. On the eastern margin of the stream,
-to the north of the Wall, is an earth-work raised a little above the
-general level of the surface, which here is somewhat depressed. Stones,
-which do not appear in the contiguous parts, lie scattered about the
-place. These circumstances seem to favour the idea of there having been
-some additional fortification in this part. The western bank of the
-stream consists of a bold breastwork of red-sandstone, rising about
-fifty feet above the level of the water. The fosse of the Wall has been
-deeply cut into this rock; it still remains in a state of great
-perfection. The old drove-road between Newcastle and Carlisle, which,
-for some distance west of this, runs upon the site of the Wall, or close
-by it, here avails itself of the fosse as a means of climbing the bank.
-The ditch of the Vallum is also discernible. The farm-house of Beck is
-partially constructed of Roman stones, and on the east side of the
-rivulet of Beck a few stones of the Wall are in their original
-situation. Headswood, as its name implies, occupies a commanding
-position. The ditch of the Vallum is at this place peculiarly bold, and
-is about thirty-five yards distant from the Wall. The fosse of the Wall
-[Illustration: Mural Stone, Leg. II. Aug.] bends round an object which
-has the appearance of being an additional fortification outside the
-Wall. At the west end of Newtown-of-Irthington are the remains of a
-large mile-castle; the stones still lie in confusion upon the site. The
-stone represented in the margin was found at this place. We next come to
-White-flat, where the rubble of the foundation of the Wall is very
-discernible and the ditch very deep. Hurtleton (the town of strife) is
-next reached; both lines of fosse are distinct and in close contiguity.
-
-In the corner of a field, called Chapel-field, there are evident signs
-of a mile-castle; the plough, however, has been drawn over the site. The
-two works, which between White-flat and this point have approached each
-other very closely, now quickly diverge, the Wall bending to the north.
-
-[Sidenote: IRTHINGTON.]
-
-The village of Irthington is a little to the south of the Barrier. Here
-formerly stood one of the strongholds of the powerful Norman family of
-De Vallibus; the building is now entirely removed, its site being
-occupied by the Nook, the residence of Robert Bell, esq. The foundations
-of some of its walls have recently been exposed. The keep probably
-occupied a lofty earthen mound which is now crowned with thriving trees.
-The parish church has recently been renewed with much skill and taste.
-The old fabric was entirely built of Roman wall-stones. In the course of
-its restoration, a striking proof of the disturbed state of the border
-district in the middle ages was disclosed; a number of skeletons,
-confusedly thrown together, being found buried within its area. The
-church, originally a Transition-Norman building, had evidently at some
-period after its erection, been contracted in its dimensions by the
-rejection of the side aisles. The outer walls consisted of the original
-columns of the aisles, filled up very roughly with common rubble. The
-columns bore decided marks of fire. The neighbouring parish church of
-Kirklinton, which has also been recently rebuilt, exhibited similar
-appearances. On taking down the old tower, which was a fortified
-stronghold, the bony remnants of upwards of sixty bodies were found in a
-space of not more than five yards square; others were found in confused
-masses in other parts. [Sidenote: BORDER STRIFE.] The probable
-explanation of these circumstances is this:—After the battle of
-Bannockburn, the Scottish forces, flushed with success, entered England,
-and the inhabitants, unable to withstand them, fled to the churches for
-protection. But neither the strength of the buildings nor their supposed
-sanctity could yield them effectual succour; the miserable people were
-slain, and their bodies left among the smouldering ruins. Those of their
-countrymen who escaped, buried them in a hasty manner upon the spot.
-When the desolated district had recovered energy enough to repair the
-churches, its utmost efforts were barely sufficient to enclose those
-parts which had, by their solidity, withstood the fire; and the reduced
-population required nothing more.
-
-The coins of Edw.I. and II. are comparatively abundant in this district,
-the armies of that monarch and his immediate successors, frequently
-taking the western route, in their marches to and from Scotland.
-
-Rejoining the Wall, we meet, when within a quarter of a mile of
-Old-wall, with the site of a mile-castle. The ruins of the building
-slightly raise it above the general level, and prevent the plough biting
-into it. The road formerly deviated from its track to go round it. An
-altar, an urn, and several coins of Edward I., have been found in it. In
-the buildings at Old-wall, many Roman stones will be noticed, and the
-earth-works of both lines of the Barrier may be traced. The Wall is
-entirely uprooted; upwards of six hundred cart-loads of stones, within
-the recollection of the inhabitants, have been taken from it in this
-immediate vicinity.
-
-Between this point and Stanwix, the works may be traced with tolerable
-satisfaction, an ancient drove-road running upon the site of the Wall
-for the greater part of the way.
-
-[Sidenote: BLEATARN.]
-
-At Bleatarn (blue tarn or lake), on the south side of the Wall, is a
-mound of earth resembling an elongated barrow; between this earth-work
-and the Wall, is a marshy hollow, which is said to have formerly been
-the bed of a lake or tarn. The Vallum takes a sweep to avoid this
-morass, and at its greatest distance is removed from the Wall about two
-hundred and twenty yards.
-
-About half-a-mile south from Bleatarn, is the site of a Roman camp,
-which Horsley conceived to be one of the stations _per lineam Valli_; it
-is now called Watch-cross. If it be a station of this class, and if the
-order in which the stations are arranged in the Notitia exactly
-corresponds with their consecutive positions in reality, the name of it
-was ABALLABA, which was garrisoned by a _numerus_ or troop of Moors,
-under a prefect. There is, however, reason to doubt whether this was a
-stationary camp at all, as will presently appear.
-
-As already remarked, no inscribed stones have been found to identify any
-of the stations west of AMBOGLANNA with the list given in the Notitia.
-Even though this difficulty respecting Watch-cross had not occurred, to
-go on appropriating the names of the Notitia, station after station,
-guided solely by the slender thread of the order of their succession,
-would be a hazardous undertaking, and is rendered still more so by the
-uncertainty existing as to those which are, and which are not,
-_stationes per lineam Valli_. In our journey from this point westward,
-the stations will, therefore, be designated by their modern names; when
-the Latin names are added, it is to be understood that they are
-conjectural.
-
-
-[Sidenote: WATCH-CROSS.]
-
-_WATCH-CROSS._—Horsley gives the following account of this station:—
-
- A little detached from the wall, to the south, is a Roman fort, of
- about four chains and an half square, called Watch-cross; and as I was
- assured by the country people, and have had it since further
- confirmed, a military way has gone near it, or between it and the
- military way belonging to the Wall; for they often plough up paving
- stones here, and think part of the highway to Brampton to be upon it.
- This is the least station on the line of the Wall, and is as usual,
- plundered of its stones, as that at Burgh and Drumburgh. However, the
- ramparts and ditches are very fair and visible.
-
-The common on which it stood having been enclosed about seventy years
-ago, and brought into cultivation, all traces of the camp have been
-obliterated. On a careful examination of its site, I failed to discover
-any fragments of Roman pottery, or other marks of Roman occupation. In
-those parts of Cumberland where the soil is not naturally stony, the
-site of a mile-castle or station, which has been brought into
-cultivation, may often be distinguished by the occurrence in that
-particular spot of numerous fragments of freestone. No such appearance
-here presents itself. The person who farms the ground says it is of
-better quality than the surrounding land; still, it does not seem to
-possess the peculiar fertility of a spot that has at any period for a
-length of time been the resort of a crowded population. Hutchinson
-describes ‘the whole ground-plot’ as being covered, in his day, ‘with a
-low growth of heath;’ the sites of all the other cities of the Wall are
-too replete with animal remains to yield, even unaided by cultivation,
-so coarse a product. I am therefore strongly disposed to think, with
-Hodgson, that it was a mere summer encampment. The spot has been well
-chosen; for, though not greatly elevated, it has an extensive prospect.
-Horsley himself had some doubts of the propriety of admitting it into
-the rank of a stationary camp, ‘by reason of its being so small, and
-having no remains of stone walls.’ The distance, however, between
-Cambeck-fort and Stanwix, which is rather greater than that between any
-other two stations, induced him to give it this position.
-
-From Bleatarn the antiquary will, with some care, be able to trace the
-Barrier by Wall-head, Walby, and Wall-foot, to Tarraby. From this
-village to Stanwix, a rural road runs upon the foundations of the Wall;
-the ditch on its north side, which within living memory was very boldly
-marked, although partially filled up is yet distinctly traceable.
-
-
-[Sidenote: STANWIX.]
-
-_STANWIX._—The church and church-yard of Stanwix occupy the site of the
-station which guarded the northern bank of the Eden. Recent explorations
-have displayed distinct remains of ancient edifices. In pulling down the
-old church, to make way for the present structure, a very fine figure of
-Victory, somewhat mutilated, was disclosed, which is now in the museum
-at Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The name of the place indicates, that whilst the
-dwellings in the vicinity were made of clay, as many of them are yet, by
-reason of the plunder of the Roman station, it could boast of being a
-_town of stones_. The situation is one of great beauty. To the east, at
-a considerable distance, the Nine-nicks of Thirlwall rear their rugged
-peaks; and to the south and south-west, appear the beautiful grounds of
-Rickerby-house, the river Eden permeating a rich and well-cultivated
-country, the ancient city of Carlisle crowned with its venerable
-cathedral, and the long vista of country terminating in the Cumbrian
-mountains.
-
-
-Between the station and the north bank of the river Eden, the fosse of
-the Wall is distinctly marked, and a hollowed line, formed by the
-excavation of the foundation of the Wall itself, shews its track to the
-water’s edge, near to the Hyssop-holme-well. We are told by Camden—
-
- That the Wall passed the river over against the castle—where in the
- very channel, the remains of it, namely, the great stones, appear to
- this day.
-
-That the Wall, on the other side of the river, clambered up that part of
-the castle-bank which projects most boldly forward, is rendered probable
-by the appearance of masonry, resembling its foundations, beneath the
-grassy surface. At this point, however, we lose all trace of the great
-structure until we get beyond the boundaries of the famous Border city
-of the West.
-
-[Sidenote: CARLISLE.]
-
-All antiquaries agree that Carlisle is the LUGUVALLIUM of the Romans. It
-is not improbable that it was one of Agricola’s forts. It is not named
-in the list of the stations _per lineam Valli_ given in the Notitia. The
-Notitia mentions only the forts having separate garrisons, and it is
-probable that after the erection of the camp at Stanwix, LUGUVALLIUM
-became subordinate to that camp, and had no distinct garrison, which
-will account for its omission.
-
-Whitaker says LUGUVALLIUM signifies, in the ancient Celtic, the fort
-upon the Waters.
-
-Extensive remains of the ancient city lie beneath the modern Carlisle;
-seldom is the ground penetrated to any considerable depth without
-disclosing ancient masonry, Samian ware, and Roman coins.
-
-Carlisle contains two interesting structures of the mediæval period—the
-castle and the cathedral. The keep of the castle is a good specimen of
-the Norman donjon, though some parts of it have been modernized. On the
-walls and door of one of its chambers, used as a prison in the ‘Fifteen’
-and the ‘Forty-five,’ are to be seen the coats of arms, the devices, and
-marks of the ‘sorrowful sighings,’ of the unhappy rebels, who beguiled
-their wretched hours in carving them. The cathedral exhibits some
-interesting specimens of the Norman as well as later styles. Its east
-window, which is of the decorated period, is the finest in the kingdom,
-with the exception, perhaps, of the west window at York.
-
-About a quarter of a mile beyond the canal basin, and nearly midway
-between the canal and the river, the track of the Wall may again be
-discerned. Owing to the difficulty of entirely uprooting it, its
-foundations have been suffered to remain; they form a cart-road which is
-used for farm purposes. A little farther on, the plough has won the day,
-and a uniform green sward or luxuriant harvest baffles our research.
-
-[Illustration: Altar—ob res trans vallum prospere gestas]
-
-[Sidenote: KIRK-ANDREWS.]
-
-A turf-covered mound on the east side of the church of Kirk-andrews, is
-occasioned by a portion of the ruins of the Wall. In the village is
-preserved the altar of which the wood-cut gives a representation. It was
-found at Kirk-steads, about a mile south of the Wall, and bears marks of
-having been cut down to suit the purpose of some comparatively modern
-builder. The focus of the altar is unusually large; the boldness of the
-lettering indicates an early date. It may be read—
-
- L[VCIVS] IVNIVS VIC-
- TORINVS ET (?)
- C[AIVS] AELIANVS LEG[ATI]
- AUG[VSTALES] LEG[IONIS] VI VIC[TRICIS]
- P[IÆ] F[IDELIS] OB RES TRANS
- VALLVM PRO-
- SPERE GESTAS.
-
- Lucius Junius Vic-
- torinus, and
- Caius Ælianus, Augustal legates
- Of the sixth legion, victorious,
- Pious, and faithful, on account of achievements beyond
- The Wall pros-
- perously performed.
-
-This is a vivid memorial of deeds of common occurrence during the period
-of Roman occupation. The original possessors of the isthmus, driven from
-their homes, and forced to seek an asylum in the hills to the north of
-the Wall, would be accounted the lawful prey of the aggressor.
-
- The gates of mercy shall be all shut up;
- And the fleshed soldier,—rough and hard of heart,—
- In liberty of bloody hand, shall range
- With conscience wide as hell; mowing like grass
- Your fresh fair virgins and your flowering infants.
-
-Whilst the Roman warrior gloated over his success, and feasted, and
-thanked his gods, and recorded his exploits on the votive stone, the
-routed remnants of the Caledonian bands would mourn over their
-slaughtered comrades and desolated home-steads.
-
-The great scarcity of stone in the western part of Cumberland has
-rendered the Wall a valuable quarry to the inhabitants from time
-immemorial. In our future progress we shall see little of it, except in
-the buildings contiguous to its site. The heart of the antiquary will,
-however, occasionally be gladdened by the recognition of the lines of
-the earth-works—their slightly elevated mounds appearing to his eager
-gaze scarcely less beautiful than the moulded forms produced by the
-genius of the sculptor, in districts more rich than this, in the remains
-of antiquity.
-
-The Vallum appears to have gone nearly due west, along the valley, from
-Kirk-andrews to Burgh; the Wall proceeds, after its usual manner, from
-eminence to eminence.
-
-[Sidenote: BURGH-UPON-SANDS.]
-
-_BURGH-UPON-SANDS_ is the next station. In Horsley’s day the remains of
-its ramparts were to be seen at a place called the Old-castle, a little
-to the east of the church. He says—
-
- On the west side these remains are most distinct, being about six
- chains in length. And Severus’s Wall seems to have formed the north
- rampart of the station. I was assured by the person to whom the field
- belonged, that stones were often ploughed up in it, and lime with the
- stones. Urns have also frequently been found here. I saw, besides an
- imperfect inscription, two Roman altars lying at a door in the town,
- but neither sculptures nor inscriptions are now visible upon them.
- ...... If besides all this, we consider the distance from the last
- station at Stanwix, I think it can admit of no doubt but there must
- have been a station here, though most of its ramparts are now
- levelled, the field having been in tillage many years. I shall only
- further add, that it was very proper to have a station at each end of
- the marsh, which, if the water flowed as high as some believe, would
- make a kind of bay.
-
-At present, little meets the eye of the inquirer, to inform him of the
-spot where the station stood, but when the surface of the ground is
-broken, the traces of a Roman city are still sufficiently distinct. The
-church-yard is filled with fragments of red sandstone blocks. At the
-depth of two feet, it contains several distinct lines of foundations.
-Entire ‘lachrymatory’ vessels and fragments of unglazed jars and urns
-have repeatedly been dug up. A small bronze figure was recently found.
-When the canal was cut, blocks of stone, blackened by smoke, were dug
-out of the soil to the south-east of the church.
-
-A few inscribed stones have been found since Horsley’s day, but none of
-them name the cohort which was stationed in the camp. Hence we have no
-means of knowing whether Watch-cross has been rightly thrown out of the
-list of ‘stations along the line,’ and whether Burgh is, as Horsley
-states it to be, the AXELODUNUM of the Notitia, or CONGAVATA, according
-to the opinion of Hodgson.
-
-In the absence of more decided remains of the camp or Wall, an
-examination of the church of this long straggling town will reward the
-attention of the antiquary. It is a good specimen of the fortified
-Border churches. It has served the threefold purpose of a church, a
-fortress, and a prison.
-
- In case of an inroad from the Scottish coast, the cattle appear to
- have been shut up in the body of the church, and the inhabitants to
- have had recourse to the large embattled tower at its western end. The
- only entrance to this tower is from the inside of the church, and it
- is secured by a ponderous iron door, fastening with two large bolts.
- The walls of the tower are seven feet thick. Its lowest apartment is a
- vaulted chamber, lighted by three arrow-slits. At the south angle is a
- spiral stone staircase, leading to two upper chambers.
-
-Many of the stones of which the church is built, are Roman, and exhibit
-reticulated tooling.
-
-
-[Sidenote: KING EDWARD’S MONUMENT.]
-
-Near to Burgh is the site on which the castle of sir Hugh de Morville,
-one of the murderers of Thomas à Becket, formerly stood. The adjoining
-field is called—‘Hang-man-tree,’ doubtless because my lord had his
-gallows here, always ready for use. A neighbouring enclosure bears a
-designation not less ominous—‘Spill-blood-holm.’ But the most
-interesting historical memorial which the neighbourhood of Burgh
-affords, is the monument to king Edward I., which stands on the marsh.
-
- Longshanks had marshalled his army: his numerous host lay encamped
- upon the sandy flat on the north of the town: the waters of the Solway
- alone separated him from the objects of his vengeance. Here the mighty
- Edward was called to enter into conflict with an enemy whom he had
- often braved on the battle-field, but who was now to approach him by a
- new method of assault. In this struggle, his valour availed him
- nothing, his chivalrous hosts could yield him no aid, and no devoted
- Eleanor was there to abstract from his veins the subtle poison which
- the king of terrors had infused. On Burgh-marsh the ‘ruthless king’
- breathed his last. A monument, represented in the vignette at the
- close of this part, marks the spot.
-
-[Sidenote: TOWER OF REPENTANCE.]
-
-Another structure, on the opposite side of the Firth, may be noticed by
-the traveller. The history of the ‘Tower of Repentance’ is strikingly
-illustrative of the disordered state of society in this district before
-the union of the two kingdoms.
-
- A chieftain from the northern side having made a successful inroad
- into the English border, was crossing the Solway on his return, laden
- with booty, when a sudden storm arose. In order to lighten his
- labouring vessel, he threw his prisoners overboard in preference to
- the cattle which he had stolen. The danger past, he was smitten with
- remorse. In order to make such amends as he could, he built a
- beacon-tower which overlooks the Solway, and to this day is called the
- Tower of Repentance. Tradition avers that the penitent himself carried
- all the stones used in its erection to the top of the hill. It is not
- far from the town of Ecclefechan.
-
-In passing along the village of Burgh, the observing visitor will notice
-the large number of boulder-stones, some of them half a ton in weight,
-which are strewed over the ground; several of them have been used in
-forming the foundations of the cottages. They are of granite, and in
-some distant age have been wrenched from the summit of Criffel, the hill
-which lends so much beauty to the landscape on the northern side of the
-Solway.
-
-On the western side of the village of Dykesfield, which we next
-encounter, is a common that contains several earthen ramparts and
-temporary camps.
-
-Between Dykesfield and the next station, Drumburgh, an extensive marsh
-occurs, which even now is occasionally overflowed by the waters of the
-Solway. Hodgson inclines to the belief, that the Wall ran directly
-across it. Horsley, however, took a different view of the subject.
-
- From hence to Drumburgh Castle no vestige of the Wall is to be seen;
- though I think it certain that the Wall did not pass through the
- marsh, but by Boustead-hill and Easton, for both tradition and matter
- of fact favour this course of it. The country people often strike upon
- the Wall, and could tell exactly several places through which, by this
- means, they knew it had passed, and always by the side of the marsh.
- Besides it is no way reasonable to suppose that the Romans would build
- their Wall within tide-mark.
-
-[Sidenote: EASTON-MARSH.]
-
-After careful inquiry, I am disposed to adopt Horsley’s view; even now,
-stones which appear to be Wall-stones, are turned up by the operations
-of the husbandmen in the line which the Wall is supposed to have taken
-by Boustead and Easton. It need not be a subject of surprise, that the
-Wall in this district has been so thoroughly removed, as there is no
-quarry within a convenient distance, and the Wall, therefore, has been
-the source from which the inhabitants of the country have drawn their
-supply of building stones. The Romans seem to have gone to Howrigg
-quarry, which is not less than eight miles south of the Barrier, for
-their facing-stones; those which they used for the interior of the Wall
-correspond in character with the proceeds of Stone-pot-scar, a quarry on
-the north shore of the Solway.
-
-We must now part company with the Vallum. This wonderful earth-work,
-which has outlived the accidents of seventeen centuries, and which we
-have traced, with but few interruptions, from the modern representative
-of PONS ÆLII to this point, is not observed going beyond it. As the
-Vallum falls short of the Wall at its eastern extremity by about four
-miles, so it does at its western. Horsley, who wrote more than a century
-ago, and who, consequently, had better opportunities of judging than we
-can now have, says—
-
- Whether Hadrian’s work (the Vallum) has been continued any further
- than this marsh, or to the water-side beyond Drumburgh, is doubtful.
- But I am pretty confident that it was not carried on so far as the
- Wall of Severus at this end, any more than at the other. And I can by
- no means yield to Mr. Gordon’s sentiments, that the one, for a good
- space at each end, was built upon the foundation of the other.
- However, it is certain that from the side of the marsh to the west end
- of the Wall there is no appearance of Hadrian’s work, or any thing
- belonging to it.
-
-[Sidenote: DRUMBURGH.]
-
-_DRUMBURGH_ contains distinct remains of a small stationary camp. This,
-if Watch-cross be rejected, was the sixteenth station of the Wall, and
-consequently, the AXELODUNUM of the Notitia, which was garrisoned by the
-first cohort of the Spaniards. The camp is on the grounds of Richard
-Lawson, esq. The ramparts are well defined, as well as the ditch which
-surrounds them. The whole area is covered with a luxuriant sward, and
-its northern margin is shaded by some thriving ash-trees. No portion of
-the Wall remains in its vicinity, but its present proprietor remembers
-witnessing the removal of the foundation. The northern rampart of the
-station did not come up to the Wall, but was removed a few yards from
-it; probably the military way ran between the station and the Wall. The
-station at Barr-hill, on the Antonine Wall, is similarly situated.
-
-South of the station is a well, enclosed by a circular wall of Roman
-masonry. It is still in use, though the water is drawn from it by a
-pump.
-
-The mediæval castle, of which there are considerable remains, is a very
-fine specimen of the ancient fortified manor-house. It is built of Roman
-stones. Extensive alterations were made upon it in the reign of Henry
-VIII. The habitable part of it is now occupied as a farm-house.
-
-
-The tranquillity of this region was not always what it now is.
-
- Standing on the northern rampart of the station, Mr. Lawson, the aged
- proprietor, directed the attention of the Pilgrim-party of 1849 to a
- small cottage on the opposite shore. ‘There,’ said he, ‘lived a
- Scottish reaver, who in the days of my grandfather made, on nineteen
- successive Easter-eves, a successful foray on the English side. A
- twentieth time he prepared to go; his family remonstrated, he however
- persisted, saying that this should be his last attempt. Our people
- were prepared for him and slew him.’ Some of the party asked ‘what
- notice did the law take of the transaction?’ 'None; the law which
- could not protect a man, would not punish him for taking the law into
- his own hands.'
-
-Now, nearly arrived at the western extremity of the great Barrier, we
-meet with but few traces of its characteristic masonry; enough, however,
-remains to lure us pleasantly to our journey’s end.
-
-In cutting the canal from Carlisle to the Solway Firth, in 1823, a
-prostrate forest of oak was discovered, which belonged to an age
-anterior to that of Hadrian. The engineer of the canal says—
-
-[Sidenote: PRIMEVAL FOREST.]
-
- A subterraneous forest was cut through in the excavation of the canal,
- near the banks of the Solway Firth, about half a mile north-west of
- the village of Glasson, and extending into Kirklands. The trees were
- all prostrate, and they had fallen, with little deviation, in a
- northerly direction, or a little eastward of it.—Some short trunks, of
- two or three feet in height, were in the position of their natural
- growth; but although the trees, with the exception of their alburnum
- and all the branches, were perfectly sound, yet the extremity of the
- trunks, whether fallen or standing, were so rugged, that it was not
- discoverable whether the trees had been cut down, or had fallen by a
- violent storm. The level upon which the trunks lay, was a little below
- that of high tides, and from eight to ten feet below the surface of
- the ground they were embedded in; which, excepting the superficial
- soil, is a soft blue clay, having the appearance of marine
- alluvion.... Although the precise period when this forest fell is not
- ascertainable, there is a positive proof that it must have been long
- prior to the building of the Wall because the foundations of the Wall
- passed obliquely over it, and lay three or four feet above the level
- of the trees.—_Arch. Æl._ ii. 117.
-
-The forest extends over a considerable tract of ground. It is
-probable that it was overthrown by a tempest from the south or
-south-west, at a time when the sea occupied a lower level than it
-does at present. The wood was so sound, that it was used in common
-with other oak timber in forming the jetties at the outlet of the
-canal into the Solway Firth. The president’s chair of the Society of
-Antiquaries, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, is formed of it.
-
-
-At Port-Carlisle is a mound resembling an ancient British barrow, called
-Fisher’s-cross. About half-a-mile to the westward of it is another which
-has been somewhat encroached upon by the road that runs along the margin
-of the Solway, and is denominated Knock’s-cross. The proverb is common
-throughout Cumberland, 'As old as Knock’s-cross.'
-
-In the front of the Steam-packet hotel, Port-Carlisle, is built up the
-fragment of a small Roman altar, bearing the inscription, SVIS MATRIBVS.
-It is one of the numerous instances that we meet with, along the line of
-the Wall, of altars dedicated to the _Deæ Matres_.
-
-
-[Sidenote: BOWNESS.]
-
-Between Port-Carlisle and Bowness, the site of the Wall may be traced
-nearly the whole way; not unfrequently the foundations of it and its
-fosse may be discerned. In one place some large stones resembling those
-used in forming the gateways of the mile-castles will be noticed. In
-Brand’s day some considerable portions of the Wall remained, between
-these points. He says—
-
- About three quarters of a mile to the east of Bowness, some fragments
- of Severus’ Wall remain, of a great height; on measuring one of them,
- we found it to be about eight feet high; it was bound and overgrown
- with ivy in a most picturesque manner. The facing-stones on both sides
- have been taken away.
-
-On my first visit to Bowness, I saw a portion of it as Hodgson describes
-it—
-
- It is six feet high. Its rugged and weathered core, still hard as a
- rock, is thickly bearded with sloe-thorn and hazel, and mantled below
- with ivy and honey-suckle.
-
-This interesting object has been entirely removed, which is the more to
-be regretted, as no advantage has been gained by its destruction; it
-served as a fence between two fields.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- H. Burdon Richardson, Delt. John Storey Lith.
- BOWNESS.
-]
-
-
-[Sidenote: TERMINATION OF THE WALL.]
-
-_BOWNESS_ is the name of the low, bow-shaped ness, or peninsula, at the
-extreme point of the left bank of the Solway Firth. It is slightly
-elevated above the surrounding country, as is plainly seen when it is
-viewed from a distance. A little to the east of the site of the station,
-the Solway is easily fordable at low water; but no one, in the memory of
-the inhabitants of these parts, has forded the estuary westward of the
-town. This circumstance would render Bowness a fit place at which to
-terminate the Barrier Wall. With difficulty the antiquary detects some
-slight traces of the walls of the station, its southern lines near the
-church being those which are most apparent. No quarry being within
-several miles of the spot, the Wall and station have furnished the
-materials of which the church and most of the habitations of the town
-are composed. A small altar built up in the front of a barn in the
-principal street, has an inscription importing that it was dedicated to
-Jupiter the best and greatest, by Sulpicius Secundianus, the tribune of
-the cohort for the safety of our lords, the emperors Galbus and
-Volusianus.
-
-Bowness may be the GABROSENTUM of the Notitia; Horsley reckoning
-Watch-cross among the stations of the line, conceives it to be
-TUNNOCELUM.
-
-Over that beautiful expanse of waters bounded by the Criffel and other
-Dumfriesshire hills, which we see from the somewhat elevated beach that
-has formed the northern margin of the station, the eye of the Roman
-sentinel must often have listlessly rolled, as he paced his tedious
-hours away. The memory of Roman and Caledonian feuds gives to the
-picture, as we now behold it, a charm enhanced by contrast with the
-state of things which existed in ancient days. [Sidenote: CHANGE OF
-TIMES.]The hills have the aspect which they formerly bore, the waters of
-the Solway ebb and flow as they were wont, the same clear sky spans the
-vault of heaven which was outstretched in Roman days;—but then, the
-occupants of the opposite shores scowled upon each other with deadly
-hate, and planned the means of mutual slaughter. Stealthily they cast
-the net and threw the leister into the margin of the sea, or when they
-openly appeared upon the waters, it was in galleys armed for sanguinary
-aggression;—now, with each returning tide, the fisherman plies his
-peaceful trade, fearless of harm, and the inhabitants of both the
-northern and the southern shore hail each other as friends and
-fellow-countrymen.
-
-[Illustration: Monument to Edward I.]
-
------
-
-Footnote 54:
-
- He who has the heart of a pilgrim ‘_per lineam Valli_,’ will not fail
- to accompany the author, while he attempts, at the very commencement
- of his local peregrination, to pay a tribute of respect to three
- departed worthies who made the Wall their especial study.
-
- JOHN HORSLEY was the first and mightiest of the three—is it too much
- to say that he was the father of the science of Archæology? Born in an
- unknown locality of this county, receiving his elementary education at
- Newcastle, his academical at Edinburgh, he spent the greater portion
- of his life as the pastor of a Presbyterian congregation in Morpeth.
- His tastes, and great familiarity with the classics, induced him to
- devote his leisure hours to the study of the antiquities of
- Northumberland. Had he conceived that the Britannia Romana would have
- cost him one-third of the time which its execution required, the world
- would never have seen it. Having embarked in the undertaking, he felt
- it his duty to make it as good as he could. How severe his toils, how
- great his pecuniary sacrifices, how ardent his aspirations after
- emancipation from his self-imposed task, in order that he might
- entirely devote himself to his sacred calling, who shall tell? The
- thought that his flock might eventually be no losers, that his family
- and his own fair fame might gain by the enterprise, buoyed him up in
- his course. On 2 Jan. 1731-2, he put the finishing stroke to his
- labours, the dedication of his work bearing that date. Now he might
- hope to reap the fruits of his toils—the enjoyment of rest, such as
- the wearied only know, the congratulations of friends, the approbation
- of the learned, the replenishment of his exhausted means. None of
- these fruits he enjoyed. He can scarcely have had the satisfaction of
- casting his eyes upon a completed copy of his work. The ink of his
- dedication was hardly dry when he was summoned to the unseen world.
- Respecting him who recorded the mighty doings of the Romans in
- Britain, the parish clerk of Morpeth made the following entry in the
- church-yard calendar:—Buried,
-
- ‘_1731-2, Jan. 15_, Mr. John Horsley.’
-
- ‘Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.’ As regards the honours or
- enjoyments of this world, he died an utterly unrequited man. Even of
- that bubble, posthumous fame, an attempt was made to rob him.
- Warburton, in his Vallum Romanum, transfers Horsley ‘in bulk’ to his
- pages—he even copies, without alteration, the opinions which Horsley
- expresses in the first person. The honest Hutton often quotes the
- ‘judicious Warburton,’ little knowing whose the feathers are which he
- so justly admires. The precise spot where his remains rest is unknown.
- He whose lot it was to interpret, after the lapse of many centuries,
- the throbbings of natural affection over departed relatives in the
- heathen breast, had no one to erect over him, though a Christian
- minister, a memorial that should outlive a single century. Even the
- parish clerk, in his attachment to the altar and the throne, denies
- him, in the sepulchral register, the title which courtesy, at least,
- would have accorded him. _Requiescat in pace!_
-
-
- The Rev. ANTHONY HEDLEY, was also a native of Northumberland; he was a
- man of literary tastes, and considerable antiquarian acquirements. He
- entered public life as curate of Hexham, where his preaching was that
- of a Boanerges. He subsequently held some temporary appointments at
- Whelpington, Newcastle, and Whitfield. Having, however, actively
- espoused the cause of that political body, who, until lord Grey became
- premier, had no patronage to bestow, it was his lot to sigh in vain
- for a summons to active occupation in the work which he loved. When
- the party whom he had long and conscientiously served, came into
- office, neglect was his portion. One of the original members of the
- Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, he did much to promote
- the study of primæval archæology in the fruitful region traversed by
- the Wall. Biased by his taste for antiquities, he was led to select,
- as his abode for life’s evening, the beautiful valley of the Chineley
- Burn. The rural hall arose at his bidding, nearly every stone of which
- was chiseled by Roman hands. The milliary which told to Hadrian’s
- soldiers that another mile had been traversed, stood by his barn. The
- station of VINDOLANA was in his grounds—many beautiful altars and
- other important reliques had he dug out of it—he could tell where the
- prætorium stood, where the standards were deposited, where every
- soldier slept. Scarcely were all the arrangements for his comfortable
- residence at Chesterholm made, when death seized him as its victim.
- Imprudently superintending, whilst somewhat indisposed, the exhumation
- of an urn in the station, his mortal part was a few days afterwards
- deposited in the church-yard at Beltingham. He died in 1835, and his
- beautiful abode has since remained desolate.
-
-
- Westmoreland has the honour of giving birth to the Rev. JOHN HODGSON,
- but Northumberland enjoyed the advantage of his youthful and maturer
- labours. Successively curate of Sedgefield, Lanchester, and Heworth,
- and afterwards vicar of Kirkwhelpington, he was shortly before his
- death promoted to the living of Hartburn. He was the chief founder of
- the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and the chief
- contributor to its transactions. His tastes led him to contemplate,
- and an honourable desire to make provision for the education and
- settlement of his family, induced him to begin, a history of
- Northumberland. Seldom have laudable designs been so signally
- defeated. He lived but to complete a part of his task; his health
- failed, and his mind gave way under his excessive labours. His
- fortunes were not bettered by them; ‘I have lived,’ said he, 'to see
- that works of this kind are not suited to the times I live in, perhaps
- to any time. It is not profitable to me—it is not suited to my
- profession—I ought to do my duty in my profession—to take up night and
- day to do it well. Well? no; but as well as good intentions, holy
- zeal, every thought and faculty of my mind fully exerted, could do
- it.' Hodgson paid great attention to the Wall, and its antiquities.
- The last published portion of his history contains a vast mass of
- learned information upon the subject. It is perhaps enough for the
- present author to say, that had not Horsley and Hodgson cleared the
- way before him, he would never have adventured to write a book upon
- the Barrier of the Lower Isthmus. Though he cannot be a Horsley or a
- Hodgson, he hopes he will never prove a Warburton.
-
-Footnote 55:
-
- Brand conceives that SEGEDUNUM may be derived from the Saxon _secg_, a
- sedge or flag, and _dun_, which is an Anglo-Saxon, as well as a Celtic
- word; this would give, as its meaning—the hill of sedge. If we can
- suppose that any of the Germanic hordes had obtained so complete a
- settlement here, as to give them the power of forming a local
- vocabulary in accordance with their own language prior to the Roman
- occupation of this post, the Saxon origin of the term is by no means
- improbable. In no part of England was an early settlement more likely
- to take place than on the eastern coast of Northumberland, but, after
- all, we must probably assign a later date to the first arrival of our
- Gothic forefathers. If a Saxon derivation be at all admissible,
- another might be suggested: _sige_ is the Anglo-Saxon for victory, and
- _tun_ is town—the town of victory—an appropriate name for a station
- occupied either by Roman or Saxon forces.
-
-Footnote 56:
-
- This statement I make on the authority of the late Mr. Buddle, who
- said, as I remember, that in his youth he had seen the stones
- extending far into the river.
-
-Footnote 57:
-
- This place derived its earlier name from being the property, and
- perhaps the suburban residence of John Cosyn, a worthy alderman of
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne, in the seventeenth century. About 1740, sir
- Robert Carre, a London knight, and draper, but also, it is thought, a
- burgess of the northern metropolis, bought Cosyn’s house at Wallsend,
- and thenceforward designated it Carre-ville. The present mansion is,
- with some little impropriety, called Carville-_hall_.
-
- When I began my inquiries at Wallsend, I had much difficulty in
- ascertaining which was Cousin’s-house. One man told me he had lived
- all his life in Wallsend—sixty years—and had never heard of it. Our
- books still continue to copy from Horsley, and to give us the
- out-of-date information that the Wall began at Cousin’s-house.
-
-Footnote 58:
-
- In districts where the Wall has been levelled with the earth, a
- foot-path or bridle-road frequently indicates its course. When land
- was of less value than it is now, the farmers, who appropriated the
- stones of the Wall to their own use, were not at the trouble to remove
- its foundation. The stony track, however, afforded a firm road, and
- when the increased value of the ground rendered it worth while to
- bring the whole into cultivation, a right of way had, in many
- instances, been established.
-
-Footnote 59:
-
- Hodgson, II. iii. 169.
-
-Footnote 60:
-
- Horsley’s traditionary account was probably derived from the same
- source as Leland’s; and therefore may indicate, not the station wall,
- but the great Wall itself. If, as the excavations made since Horsley’s
- day seem to prove, the Wall crossed obliquely from the south to the
- north side of Collingwood-street, it must have passed over the site of
- St. Nicholas’-church—not to the north of it.
-
-Footnote 61:
-
- So inviting a post would not escape the notice of the ancient
- British warrior—the appearances Mr. Hodgson describes, are not
- inconsistent with its having been an Ancient-British strong-hold.
-
-Footnote 62:
-
- Drawn to twice the usual size.
-
-Footnote 63:
-
- The author, as the leader of the pilgrim-band who traversed the Wall
- in the summer of 1849, used a staff made out of this primeval oak. It
- is now in the Newcastle collection of antiquities.
-
-Footnote 64:
-
- Tour, iii. 313, quoted by Brand, i. 37.
-
-Footnote 65:
-
- Brand’s Newcastle, i. 37.
-
-Footnote 66:
-
- Jerusalem was called after him Ælia Capitolina, and the games at
- Pincum, in Mæsia, Ælia Pincensia.
-
-Footnote 67:
-
- Smith’s Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities.
-
-Footnote 68:
-
- In the possession of the Society of Antiquaries at Somerset-house. The
- wood-cuts are drawn to twice the usual scale.
-
-Footnote 69:
-
- Baxter, in his glossary, derives it from the ancient British words
- _Pen ual_, the head of the Wall. A comparatively modern village would
- hardly take a Celtic name; besides, although the Roman station has a
- commanding prospect in a military point of view, it is scarcely so
- elevated as to be entitled to the epithet of Pen or Ben; the village
- of Benwell is below it.
-
-Footnote 70:
-
- History of Manchester, i. 224.
-
-Footnote 71:
-
- The cottage is still standing in the neighbourhood of Wylam, in which
- George Stephenson first saw the light. Aided, in due time, by his son,
- worthy of such a father, he did more than any other man to elaborate
- our present railway system. The antiquary who has been revelling in
- the associations of the past will scarcely fail, as he looks down from
- his Wall-traversed heights upon the vale which gave birth to such a
- man, to give for a moment the reins to his imagination, and suffering
- his mind to penetrate the mists of futurity, ruminate upon the changes
- which the efforts of the Stephensons are destined to produce, not only
- in the physical, but in the moral aspect of society.
-
-Footnote 72:
-
- Derived from wall and _botle_, the Saxon for an abode.
-
-Footnote 73:
-
- Anciently written Throcklow. Low, or Law, is applied either to a low,
- round-topped eminence, or an artificial mound.
-
-Footnote 74:
-
- Hodgson, II. iii. 178.
-
-Footnote 75:
-
- Britannia Romana, 139.
-
-Footnote 76:
-
- Note in Lappenberg’s Anglo-Saxon Kings, i. 91.
-
-Footnote 77:
-
- The road leaves the Wall here, and keeps to the right of the hill. The
- north side of the hill is planted with trees, and it is interesting to
- notice in the summit of the plantation, a dip, corresponding to the
- depression of the fosse of the Wall.
-
-Footnote 78:
-
- Unable to resist the positive testimony of an intelligent eye-witness,
- I was, at first, disposed to think that he had included in his
- measurement some chamber on the inside of the station wall. I am now
- prepared to receive the statement without deduction. Some recent
- excavations at Risingham have laid bare a part of the curtain wall
- which has been built double, the intervening space, or chamber, being
- filled up with rubble and rubbish run together with lime, so as to
- form a solid mass of masonry of considerable thickness. The object of
- this arrangement may have been, to form a solid, elevated platform,
- for the use of the soldiery.
-
-Footnote 79:
-
- Both Horsley and Lingard had previously noticed it. Horsley says he
- was told by a countryman that ‘it was what the speaking trumpet was
- laid in.’
-
-Footnote 80:
-
- The aqueduct was not traced on the Halton side of the valley, so that
- the precise point where it joined the station is not known; it is now
- entirely removed.
-
-Footnote 81:
-
- Several of the sculptures at Matfen were sent to Alnwick Castle.
- Wallis uses the term, ‘centurial stone,’ very loosely, applying it
- even to the large Milking-gap slab.
-
-Footnote 82:
-
- Bede’s Ecclesiastical History, b. III. ch. ii. Giles’s translation.
-
-Footnote 83:
-
- Although a walk of a few minutes will bring the traveller, who knows
- exactly whither to bend his steps, to this curious relic, a stranger
- may fruitlessly spend much time in examining the many low scars which
- diversify the surface of the fell. It is a deeply interesting object.
-
-Footnote 84:
-
- The cramps seem to have been of various kinds. Some authors speak of
- iron cramps. One antiquary, I know, spent a livelong summer’s day
- knee-deep in the water, extracting one which proved to be entirely of
- lead. A. cramp, of very curious form and structure, taken from this
- bridge, is preserved in the museum at Chesters, and is figured Plate
- VII. fig. 1.; it seems to have been triply dove-tailed; the substance
- of it is iron, but it has been coated all over to the thickness of
- one-eighth of an inch with lead. The iron would give the instrument
- tenacity, and the lead protect the more corrosive metal from
- oxidization; truly the Romans built for perpetuity.
-
-Footnote 85:
-
- History of Northumberland, II. iii. 180.
-
-Footnote 86:
-
- The initial L, page 103, is formed of two of these Roman balusters.
- The lower one is at Chesters, the upright one at Chesterholm.
-
-Footnote 87:
-
- The section of the hypocaust wall on Plate III is taken from this
- example, and shews the hanging floor.
-
-Footnote 88:
-
- See an interesting ‘Account of an Excavation recently made within the
- Roman Station at CILURNUM, by John Clayton, esq.’ in the Archæologia
- Æliana, iii. 142.
-
-Footnote 89:
-
- The improved method of making draining-tiles for agricultural uses has
- suggested the formation of hollow bricks for building purposes. A
- floor might be paved and side-walls formed of these, so as readily to
- admit of the circulation of air throughout the whole substance of the
- apartment, and a handful of coke or charcoal, placed at the entrance
- of the flue, would effectually warm the whole. Specimens of bricks of
- this kind, remarkably strong, and ingeniously contrived for securely
- locking into one another, are before me, for which I am indebted to
- Robert Rawlinson, esq., after whose design they were formed. The Latin
- comedy represents the miser begrudging the smoke that escaped from his
- chimney—well may the benevolent man regret that whilst his poor
- neighbours are bending under the chills of winter, three-fourths of
- the heat generated in his parlour-grate is absolutely wasted.
-
-Footnote 90:
-
- Now at Alnwick-castle.
-
-Footnote 91:
-
- The words printed in italics have been supplied from contemporaneous
- inscriptions; they can scarcely be said to be conjectural readings.
-
-Footnote 92:
-
- Soldiers who by their good conduct had earned a double allowance of
- corn or pay.
-
-Footnote 93:
-
- Hodgson learnedly explains this inscription—Arch. Æl. i. 128.
-
-Footnote 94:
-
- Preserved in the interesting collection at Chesters.
-
-Footnote 95:
-
- This peculiar term is probably derived from the Saxon _Seuch_, a
- furrow or fosse, and _Shiel_, a hut for those who have the care of
- cattle, and thus signifies, the cottage by the fosse.
-
-Footnote 96:
-
- It is reported in the neighbourhood, that Mrs. Spearman having dreamt
- that she found a rich hoard of treasure among the ruins of the castle,
- made diligent search for it, but without success. When the castle was
- removed, however, the farmer obtained a valuable deposit of mediæval
- manure.
-
-Footnote 97:
-
- Pliny’s Natural History, lib. vii. c. 2, q.
-
-Footnote 98:
-
- Hodgson’s Northumberland, II., iii., 287.
-
-Footnote 99:
-
- The country being depopulated, lands once in tillage, again became
- wastes. The forests being partially destroyed, either by fire or the
- axe, the streams which used to permeate the low-grounds were arrested
- in their course by prostrate trunks and branches, and gave rise to
- extensive morasses. In the bogs of the district we are now
- considering, immense quantities of large oak and birch timber, as well
- as of oak leaves and hazel nuts, are continually being found. The Dike
- would not, of course, originally, be drawn through swampy ground.
-
-Footnote 100:
-
- Many of them are preserved in the Museum of the Society of
- Antiquaries, Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-
-Footnote 101:
-
- Horsley remarks, 'I cannot say that Hadrian’s Vallum has made the
- south rampart of this station at Housesteads, but I think it has
- passed it not much to the south, and seems to have a small turn just
- at the brook, in order to come near, if not up to it.' This looks as
- if Horsley could not altogether throw off the idea that the works
- exhibit unity of design. Hutton notices his inconsistency, and,
- quoting him, (as transferred to the pages of ‘the judicious
- Warburton,’) writes—‘But can a thing be brought near to what does not
- exist! Hadrian was dead long before the appearance of this station.’
-
-Footnote 102:
-
- This circumstance, together with the fact, that all the camps of the
- Barrier abound in stones reddened with fire, is confirmatory of the
- view, that the buildings supplied with hypocausts were not necessarily
- baths.
-
-Footnote 103:
-
- The site of the western gateway is marked by a figure in the
- background of the picture.
-
-Footnote 104:
-
- Pompeii.—Library of Entertaining Knowledge.
-
-Footnote 105:
-
- Two of this number, however, would always be on duty, to the very
- great comfort of the eight who remained.
-
-Footnote 106:
-
- The initial N, page 43, is formed of three nails from Housesteads,
- drawn to three-fourths of the actual size.
-
-Footnote 107:
-
- The most satisfactory specimen that I have seen is at Carvoran; it has
- apparently been rolled, when in a soft state, on a stone table, and
- presents, from its slightly roughened surface, the degree of opacity
- which plate-glass has before it is polished.
-
-Footnote 108:
-
- One of them is engraved, on p. 63, the inscription of the other is
- illegible; both are in the Museum at Newcastle.
-
-Footnote 109:
-
- See also the vignette, page 42. Most of these are still on the ground.
- They are drawn to the usual scale.
-
-Footnote 110:
-
- Archæologia Æliana, i. 268.
-
-Footnote 111:
-
- Britannia Romana, 125.
-
-Footnote 112:
-
- Hutchinson’s Northumberland, i. 60.
-
-Footnote 113:
-
- A dilapidated building, near the east end of the town, illustrates
- some of the peculiarities of this species of border fortress. The
- lower portion of it was devoted to the reception of cattle—the upper
- was occupied by the family. The floor of the second story consists of
- stone flags laid upon massive beams of oak, very roughly dressed. The
- object of this arrangement has probably been to prevent the enemy, who
- might get possession of the lower part of the building without being
- able to take the upper part by storm, from applying, with much success
- at least, fire to the floor. The stone slates of the roof were
- generally fastened with the bones of sheeps’ trotters—a most durable
- fastening—instead of wooden pins; but, in this instance, the original
- roof has been removed.
-
-Footnote 114:
-
- Whilst lying in prison, and cheerfully waiting for the time when he
- should be offered, his mind reverted to the scenes and companions of
- his youth. 'My hope was of late that I should have come among you, and
- to have brought with me abundance of Christ’s blessed gospel,
- according to the duty of that office and ministry whereunto among you
- I was chosen, named, and appointed, by the mouth of that our late
- peerless prince, king Edward.' In a letter, in which, as one ‘minding
- to take a far journey,’ he bids farewell to his loving brothers and
- sisters, and his well-beloved and worshipful cousins, he specifies
- many of the well-known localities of this district, then their places
- of residence.
-
-Footnote 115:
-
- Labbe’s edition of the Notitia Imperii, published at Paris, 1651.
-
-Footnote 116:
-
- It is preserved in the collection of antiquities at Chesters.
-
-Footnote 117:
-
- Arch. Æliana, i. 118.
-
-Footnote 118:
-
- History of the Picts’ or Romano-British Wall, 35.
-
-Footnote 119:
-
- Hodgson, II. iii. 293.
-
-Footnote 120:
-
- History of the Picts’ Wall, 35.
-
-Footnote 121:
-
- The owner of the ground was provoked to obliterate the remains of this
- ancient city, in consequence of the manner in which curiosity-mongers
- (not antiquaries) trespassed on his fields, in their way to the
- station, instead of taking the beaten track.
-
-Footnote 122:
-
- I have been strongly reminded of these circular pedestals by the
- figures of the columns of the Roman part of Reculver church, given (p.
- 198) in Mr. C. Roach Smith’s admirable work on Richborough and
- Reculver. The northern examples are, however, of coarser workmanship
- than the southern seem to have been; the moulding that encircles the
- Carvoran specimen resembles straw-ropes rather than carefully
- fabricated cables.
-
-Footnote 123:
-
- Thirl, from the Saxon _thirlian_, signifies to pierce, to bore. It is
- generally supposed, that this stronghold derived its name from the
- Scots having broken through the Wall here. It may, however, have taken
- it from the sluice or bridge where the river passed through the Wall;
- thirl, says Hutchinson, being frequently applied to the opening left
- in moor fences for sheep to pass through.
-
-Footnote 124:
-
- Can it have been derived from the Saxon _bryddes wald_ or _weald_, the
- bird’s forest? The local pronunciation of the name of the place is
- peculiar and rather favours the proposed etymology.
-
-Footnote 125:
-
- The Wall is at too great a distance from the Vallum to be introduced
- into the section; it is beyond the extra fosse, on the right hand side
- of the wood-cut.
-
-Footnote 126:
-
- In this locality, the traveller is apt to lose his reckoning, in
- consequence of the number of cottages and villages which are
- denominated ‘Wall.’
-
-Footnote 127:
-
- Some antiquaries have conceived, that in the last two words of the
- inscription, a reference is made to the emperor Septimius Severus.
- This cannot be admitted, for—1. The emperor’s name would not be placed
- after that of the prefect: 2. The term _instante_ implies the
- discharge of a subordinate duty; for, not to mention other examples,
- the temple of which the CILURNUM slab records the restoration (p.
- 186), was built by command of Marius Valerianus, under the
- superintendence of (_instante_) Septimius Nilus: 3. That _princeps_
- was the designation of a subordinate officer in the army, appears not
- only from a collation of other inscriptions, but from the following
- statement of Manutius—'In a legion there were three kinds of foot
- soldiers, _hastati_, _principes_, and _triarii_, and in each there
- were ten centurions, who were called the first _hastatus_, the second
- _hastatus_, the third, and so on, up to the tenth; the first
- _princeps_, the second, and so on; but the _triarii_, the bravest of
- all, were named in a different manner, for they did not call them
- first triarius, but _primipilus_, or _primipili centurio_.'—_Arch.
- Æl._, ii. 88.
-
- _Principi_ is doubtless intended for the more usual form of the
- ablative, _principe_.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
- ~The Roman Barrier of the
- Lower Isthmus.~
-
-
-
-
- PART IV
- THE SUPPORTING STATIONS OF THE WALL.
-
-Altho’ we have now traversed the line of the mural Barrier from one
-extremity to the other, and examined all the camps that lie upon its
-track, we have met with but seventeen or eighteen of the twenty-three
-that are mentioned in the Notitia as stations _per lineam Valli_.
-According to Horsley, five remain to be accounted for, and according to
-Hodgson, who rejects Watch-cross, six. These must be sought for among
-the stations which support the great Barrier on its northern or southern
-side. As the names of the camps north of the Wall have been ascertained
-by independent authority, and as they do not correspond[Sidenote:
-SECONDARY FORTS OF THE NOTITIA.] with those of the remaining stations of
-the Notitia, it is agreed on all hands, that the list is to be completed
-from among the fortified places which support the Barrier on the south.
-Without dwelling upon the reasons which have guided the conjectures,
-(for they are but conjectures at the best), of the great author of the
-Britannia Romana, and other antiquaries, in appropriating the remaining
-names supplied by the Notitia, it may be sufficient to say, that as the
-primary stations, so far as they have been ascertained, are found to be
-arranged in that document in regular consecutive order, beginning at the
-eastern extremity of the line, it is conceived to be highly probable
-that a similar course has been pursued with the secondary camps. If,
-therefore, we could correctly ascertain which, of all the camps that dot
-the country in the southern vicinage of the Wall, are mural stations, we
-might, with tolerable plausibility, bestow upon them in their order the
-remaining names of the Notitia roll. But this is a task of great
-difficulty, and considerable uncertainty must necessarily attend the
-appropriation of the names upon this principle.
-
-An examination of the forts themselves, however, on both sides of the
-Wall, is a task equally easy and instructive, and it is one which is
-essential to a correct estimate of the strength of the principal
-fortification—the Wall. Sir John Clark must have altogether overlooked
-the existence of these supporting stations, when he wrote in the
-following strain to his friend Gale:—
-
- After all, I cannot but take notice of two things with regard to the
- Wall, that have given me great matter of speculation. The first is,
- why it was made at all, for it could never be a proper defence, and
- perhaps at Bowness less than at any other place, since our barbarian
- forefathers on the north side could pass over at low water, and if the
- sea was higher or deeper than it is now, could make their attacks from
- the north-east side by land.—The second is, why the Scots historians,
- vain enough by nature, have not taken more pains to describe the Wall,
- a performance which did their ancestors more honour than all the
- trifling stories put together which they have transmitted to us. It is
- true the Romans walled out humanity from us; but it is as certain they
- thought the Caledonians a very formidable people, when they at so much
- labour and cost built this Wall; as before they had made a Vallum
- between the Forth and the Clyde.
-
-[Sidenote: THE BARRIER NOT A NAKED WALL.]
-
-The Romans did not oppose to the enemy a single line of fortification
-only, which, by some casual negligence on their part, or a sudden
-exertion of desperate bravery on the side of their antagonists, might in
-a moment be rendered useless. In addition to the Wall, stationary camps
-were planted along its whole course, at a few miles distance from it,
-both to the north and the south; so that, in reality, a triple line of
-fortresses was opposed to the passage of an enemy from either quarter.
-These subsidiary stations were connected with the garrisons on the Wall,
-and to some extent with each other, by good roads. In maintaining a
-surveillance over an enemy, whether to the north or the south of the
-chief member of the fortification, in furnishing a secure retreat for
-the soldiery when venturing beyond their line, and in stemming the first
-shock of an onset, the importance of the out-stations cannot be
-over-rated.
-
-[Sidenote: THE SUPPORTING FORTS OF DIFFERENT ERAS.]
-
-It is not contended that all the stations which are immediately on the
-north and south of the Wall were erected with the express view of
-supporting it. Several of them doubtless were, but others, there is
-reason to believe, were made by Agricola, before the Wall was projected
-or thought of. All that is necessary for us to admit is, that they
-contributed materially to the strength of the main structure, and as
-such, formed an important element in the calculations of the engineer of
-the Wall.
-
-In taking a cursory survey of the supporting stations of the line, it
-may be well, first, to examine those which defended its eastern
-extremity: next, those which are upon Watling-street—the great channel
-of communication between the northern and southern sections of Britain
-on the east side of the summit level: afterwards, those which are on the
-Maiden-way—the road on the west of the summit level: and reserve to the
-last, the important stations which strengthened the works on the
-northern and southern shores of the Solway.
-
-
-_TYNEMOUTH._—The Castle and Priory stand upon a peninsula so strong and
-so easily defended, that it could not have escaped the attention either
-of the aboriginal Britons or the Romans. The altar, which was erected by
-the fourth cohort of the Lingones, [Illustration: Tablet, Gyrum Cumbas]
-has been already described (_p._ 109). Another lettered stone, found
-along with it, is here represented.
-
- GYRVM CVMBAS
- ET TEMPLVM
- FECIT C IV
- MAXIMINVS
- LEG VI VI
- EX VOTO
-
-About the reading of the first line of this inscription, which Brand
-translates, ‘a circular harbour for the shipping,’ there is some
-uncertainty; but there is no doubt about the other lines, which import
-that—
-
- Caius Julius Maximinus, _of_ the Sixth Legion, victorious,
- in the performance of a vow, erected _this_ temple.
-
-The mere circumstance of its selection as the site of a temple, proves
-this to have been a place of some importance in the Roman age. The name
-of the builder of the temple fixes, with a near approach to precision,
-the date of its dedication. Caius Julius Verus Maximinus was a Thracian
-shepherd of great personal strength; he attracted at an early period of
-his life the notice of Septimius Severus, and under Caracalla attained
-to the rank of centurion. On the assassination of Alexander Severus, in
-235, he assumed the purple, and was himself assassinated in 238. He
-probably accompanied Septimius Severus into Britain, and on this
-occasion erected the temple commemorated by this inscription. The
-following amusing account of the personal qualifications of Maximinus,
-is given in Dr. William Smith’s admirable Dictionary of Biography and
-Mythology.
-
- His height exceeded eight feet, but his person was not ungraceful, for
- the size and muscular developement of his limbs were in proportion to
- his stature, the circumference of his thumb being equal to that of a
- woman’s wrist, so that the bracelet of his wife served him for a
- ring.... The remarkable magnitude of his eyes communicated a bold and
- imposing expression to his features. He was able single-handed to drag
- a loaded wagon, could with his fist knock out the grinders, and with a
- kick break the leg of a horse; while his appetite was such, that in a
- day he could eat forty pounds of meat, and drink an amphora of wine.
- At least such are the statements of the ancient writers.
-
-Nearly all traces of the camp at Tynemouth have been erased. Some years
-after the modern well near the entrance into the castle was sunk,
-another of wide diameter, and cased with masonry, was discovered, in
-consequence of the falling in of its covering; it is supposed to be
-Roman, but was again closed by order of the commander of the garrison,
-before it could be properly inspected.
-
-[Sidenote: MEDIÆVAL REMAINS.]
-
-The mediæval remains at Tynemouth are of great interest. The castellated
-gateway which formerly defended the approaches to the priory precincts
-has been sadly mutilated by tasteless renovators, but the ecclesiastical
-buildings, which have happily been left to the mercy of the elements,
-exhibit even in their ruins, much of their original beauty. The
-church-yard, affords a resting place to many who for years had been
-tossed upon the restless ocean, and to some who, venturing into the
-briny flood in search of health and pleasure, met with an untimely end.
-Friendly tomb-stones, speak of them; some names, however, are in danger
-of being forgotten.
-
-The murdered body of Oswin king of Deira, was deposited in the
-church-yard of this monastery. Here too, were buried Malcolm Canmore
-king of Scotland—the friend of the Saxon—and his son, prince Edward, so
-named after his maternal ancestor the Confessor; they were both slain in
-the same fatal battle fought near Alnwick, A.D. 1094. Queen Margaret,
-through whom her present majesty, queen Victoria, derives her Saxon
-blood, survived the slaughter of her husband and son but a few days.
-
-
-[Sidenote: BLAKE-CHESTERS.]
-
-_BLAKE-CHESTERS_, at the high end of North Shields, is the site of
-another camp. Waterville, the residence of George Rippon, esq., is
-within its bounds. Several carved stones, much worn by the weather, are
-on the ground, and many Roman building-stones may be observed in the
-contiguous fences.
-
-These are not the only camps which were situated on the east coast north
-of the Wall. Hodgson says—
-
-From the Wall northward, are numerous small square camps, strengthened
-with deep ditches, scattered over the country, as if they had been
-intended for rural purposes.[128] A line of them may still be traced
-through the parishes of Long-Benton, past Cramlington, into the Plessy
-grounds.
-
-There is every probability that the site of Morpeth castle was fortified
-by the Romans. Some portions of the curtain-wall still standing have
-been pronounced by competent judges to be of Roman masonry.
-
-
-[Sidenote: FORT AT SOUTH SHIELDS.]
-
-_SHIELDS LAWE._—The southern shore of the estuary of the Tyne was as
-well protected as the northern. A camp, comprehending several acres,
-stood upon the slightly elevated headland at South Shields called the
-Lawe. The excellence of the situation, as a post of observation, is
-proved by the acts of the pilots who have planted a beacon and erected
-many of their residences upon it. In 1798, the foundations of many old
-walls, which obstructed the plough, were removed. The lowest course of
-some of them consisted ‘of rough whinstone, evidently brought from the
-shore, as the barnacles were still adhering to them.’ The remains of a
-hypocaust were discovered at the same time. Several coins were also
-found, and as some of them were of the reign of Valentinian (A.D. 380),
-it may be presumed that the station was in use only a short time before
-the desertion of Britain by the Romans. An altar, despoiled of its
-inscription, which was found in this station, is preserved in the
-library at Durham.
-
-The ancient military-way called the Wreckendike terminated at this
-station. Until a recent period, one branch of it could be traced by
-Lay-gate, the Dean-bridge, and Jarrow-slake, to Gateshead-fell. It also
-led to Lanchester, Binchester, and the South.
-
-
-[Sidenote: STATION AT JARROW.]
-
-_JARROW._—At nearly the same distance from the camp on the Lawe, on the
-south side of the river, as Blake-chesters is from Tynemouth, on the
-north, the site of another Roman fort occurs. Hodgson, who first drew
-attention to it, says—
-
- At Jarrow, an oblong square of about three acres, with its corners
- rounded off, overlooking the estuary of Jarrow-slake, and fronting on
- the south the bank of the navigable stream called the Don, is, on good
- grounds, supposed to have been the site of a station or fortified town
- of the Romans. Under-ground foundations of a wall of strong masonry
- mark out its area on every side, and include within them the site of
- the present church and church-yard, and some ragged remains of the
- ancient monastery of Jarrow. In digging up part of the remains of
- these walls in 1812, a silver denarius of Aulus Vitellius was found
- embedded in mortar in the heart of the wall; and when the road was
- formed past Jarrow-row, in 1803, two square pavements of Roman brick
- were discovered.
-
-[Illustration: 323]
-
-Two inscribed stones have been found here which give strength to the
-opinion that Jarrow was a Roman station. One of them, now at
-Somerset-house, is shewn in the wood-cut. As Brand observes, it is
-interesting as containing the name of our island at length. It has been
-read—
-
- DIFFVSIS PROVINC_IIS IN_ BRITANNIA AD VTRVMQVE
- O_CEANVM_ EXERCITVS _FECIT_.—
-
-The army erected this, on the extension of the Roman dominion in
-Britain, from the western to the eastern sea.
-
-The other stone has formed part of an altar erected in honour of the
-adopted sons of Hadrian.
-
-The church of Jarrow is a simple building, but it contains some
-undoubted Saxon work. Within the walls of the ancient monastery, some
-portions of which exist, the venerable Bede passed his useful and
-unostentatious life. Of him, Surtees, the Historian of Durham, observes—
-
- The lamp of learning, trimmed by the hand of a single monastic who
- never passed the limits of his Northumbrian province, irradiated from
- the cell of Jarrow, the Saxon realm of England with a clear and steady
- light; and when Bede died, history reversed her torch, and quenched it
- in deep night.
-
-This venerable man died, A.D., 735, in the act of completing a
-translation into Anglo-Saxon of the Gospel of St. John. His name would
-have been worthy of all reverence, even had he done nothing more than
-give to his countrymen the Scriptures in their vernacular tongue. It
-must however be confessed that ‘he fell on evil times,’ and that his
-works embody many of the errors and superstitions of the period.
-
-
-[Sidenote: WARDLEY.]
-
-_WARDLEY._—An ancient entrenchment containing an area of upwards of six
-acres, may yet be observed at Wardley, in the parish of Jarrow, nearly
-opposite to Wallsend. Hodgson, who resided for several years in this
-neighbourhood, was not able to learn that any Roman antiquities were
-ever found in it. He was disposed, however, to think that it belonged to
-the Roman era. It may have been a summer encampment of the garrison at
-Wallsend, and as such, would contribute not a little to their comfort,
-and the defence of the river.
-
-Wardley, there is some reason to suppose, is the Wredelau of the
-chroniclers, where the body of St. Cuthbert became immoveable, and where
-the wandering monastics received the revelation which directed them to
-Durham.
-
-Such were the strongholds by which the garrisons on the eastern
-extremity of the Wall were assisted in maintaining their ground against
-the foe.
-
-Watling-street, running north and south, crossed the Wall at about
-twenty miles from its termination at Wallsend. The modern turnpike-road
-between Corbridge and West-Woodburn adheres very closely to its track,
-and occasionally the ancient ditches protecting it on both sides are to
-be seen. Its stations were probably planted by Agricola, but were not on
-that account less useful to the soldiers of the Barrier. Our examination
-of them must be brief.
-
-
-_CHEW-GREEN._—Here, close upon the Scottish border, is an extensive
-Roman camp; investigation is necessary to decide whether it was of a
-temporary or permanent character; it is probably only an earthen
-entrenchment.
-
-
-[Sidenote: HIGH-ROCHESTER.]
-
-BREMENIUM, or High Rochester, is a station of considerable interest. It
-stands upon Watling-street, at about twenty two miles north of the Wall.
-Between Rochester and Chew-green the pavement of the Roman road may be
-distinctly traced for many miles together. The site on which the station
-stands is high and much exposed; but, in a military point of view, it is
-very strong. On all sides the ground slopes from it, but on the north it
-sinks so rapidly, as to give it the protection of a bold breastwork. The
-walls of the station are stronger than those of the forts on the line of
-the Wall; they are not only thicker, but are composed of larger
-stones.[Sidenote: BREMENIUM.] A moat has surrounded the camp; on the
-east side, which is by nature the weakest, two ditches have been formed,
-which there is reason to believe were supplied with water. All the
-gateways may be traced with considerable distinctness; the southern one
-has suffered least from depredation. The interior of the station is
-filled with the ruins of buildings; some of them would well repay
-examination. Of the modern structures which have been raised within its
-area, two are peel-houses or fortified dwellings of considerable
-strength. The suburban buildings of the station have been situated on
-the west side, where their foundations still appear. Here they would be
-protected by the valley along which, at about a quarter of a mile’s
-distance, the Sills-burn runs. The stones of the ramparts are strongly
-marked by the diamond broaching. The station contains an area of four
-acres and three roods.
-
-At about half-a-mile distant from the station, in a south-east
-direction, there have recently been discovered the foundations of some
-Roman _cippi_ or funeral monuments. They are close by the road, and as
-was usually the case, on the south side of it. Three of them are square,
-the fourth, which is the largest, is circular. The masonry of all of
-them is remarkably fresh. The circular tomb has two courses of stones
-standing, besides the flat stones which form the foundation. On clearing
-out the interior, a jar of unburnt clay was found; it had no bones in
-it. The natural soil was found to have been acted upon by fire to the
-depth of more than a foot. Mixed with the rubbish was a quantity of
-white ashes. A coin of Alexander Severus was found within the area, a
-circumstance which strengthens the presumption that the station was
-occupied by the Romans until a late period.
-
-There are several temporary camps in this neighbourhood. Persons well
-acquainted with the country, and who have noticed the peculiar structure
-of Roman roads, give it as their opinion that a Roman way has proceeded
-eastwards from Rochester by Yatesfield, Potts-Durtrees, Yardhope,
-Holystone, and Glanton, in a direction which renders it probable that it
-joined that branch of Watling-street which traversed the eastern side of
-Northumberland, and is often inelegantly termed the Devil’s-causeway.
-
-Some distance south of the station, and near to the point at which
-Watling-street crosses the modern high-way, (in front of Redesdale
-cottage) the remains of an ancient lime-kiln were recently found. It was
-situated on the slope of a rocky hill, and had been formed partly by the
-excavation of the natural rock, and partly by regular courses of
-masonry. In order to take advantage of the form of the ground, the mouth
-for drawing out the lime was placed in front. The stones were much
-reddened by the action of fire, and portions of lime were adhering to
-them. There is excellent limestone near the kiln, and several beds of
-coal are in the vicinity. Several heaps of rubbish, on the line of
-Watling-street, where the coal crops out, render it probable that this
-mineral was wrought by the Romans.
-
-[Sidenote: THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINE.]
-
-In ascertaining the Roman names of the stations on the line of the Wall,
-reference has hitherto been made only to the Notitia Imperii. Another
-document has come down to our time, of which we may now avail
-ourselves—the Itinerary of Antonine. It does not mention any of the
-stations immediately upon the Wall, but names some to the north and and
-south of it. It is a sort of road-book of the whole Roman empire, and is
-supposed to have been made by one of the emperors who bore the name of
-Antoninus. Horsley thinks that Caracalla is best entitled to be
-accounted its author. That part of it which relates to Britain contains
-fifteen routes; the towns upon each are named, and the distances from
-one to another given in Roman miles. The aid which such a document gives
-in ascertaining the ancient designations of the stations that occur in
-it is obvious. The first ‘Iter’ is entitled ‘A Route from the Limit,
-that is, from the Wall, to PRÆTORIUM, 156 miles.’ It begins thus—
-
- From BREMENIUM to CORSTOPITUM XX miles.
- To VINDOMORA IX ”
- To VINOVIA XIX ”
-
-The second ‘Iter’ also begins at the Wall, and goes to the
-Ritupian-port, Richborough, 481 miles.
-
-The first portion only, of it also, bears upon our present
-investigation.
-
- From BLATUM BULGIUM to CASTRA EXPLORATORUM XII miles.
- To LUGUVALLIUM XII ”
- To VOREDA XIV ”
-
-The tenth ‘Iter,’ which is from GLANOVENTA to MEDIOLANUM, 150 miles,
-begins with towns which are supposed to be in the vicinity of the Wall.
-
- From GLANOVENTA to GALAVA XVIII miles.
- To ALIONE (or ALIONIS) XII ”
-
-That Rochester is the BREMENIUM of the first route, is established by
-the discovery of an altar in it, which professes to be erected by the
-_duplares_ of the exploratory troops stationed at BREMENIUM. In no
-position would exploratory troops be more needed than here, and no place
-could be more appropriately fixed upon as the starting point of an
-‘Iter’ than this. Several of the inscriptions belonging to this station
-bear the name of Caracalla. Both BREMENIUM and HABITANCUM seem to have
-undergone important repairs in the time of this emperor.
-
-Eight miles south of High Rochester, and on the line of Watling-street,
-is another Roman station.
-
-
-[Sidenote: HABITANCUM.]
-
-HABITANCUM is the name which Camden, and Horsley, on the authority of a
-stone found near the station, and which was inspected by them both,
-agree in bestowing upon the modern Risingham.
-
-The position of HABITANCUM will strike a stranger with surprise. Instead
-of occupying an eminence, it is placed in a valley, and close upon the
-banks of the Rede. Hills environ it, though not very closely, on every
-side. They who, in early spring, have been exposed on the neighbouring
-heights to the sleety shower, will know the reason of the selection. The
-climate of Risingham is peculiarly mild. The west wind blows with the
-steadiness of a trade wind, and the harsh east seldom descends into this
-favoured valley. The village of Woodburn is on the opposite side of the
-river. The lines in ‘Rokeby’ well characterize the spot, though its wood
-is fast disappearing—
-
- Where Rede upon his margin sees
- Sweet Woodburn’s cottages and trees.
-
-Notwithstanding the secluded nature of the situation, it is not
-destitute of military strength. The Rede defends it on the north, which
-was the point of greatest danger; and, excepting on the south, where an
-out-post seems to have been maintained, an enemy could be descried long
-before approaching the camp.
-
-The walls of the station have been constructed of the same strong
-masonry as those of BREMENIUM. Owing to the excellence of the stone, the
-marks of the tool upon them are peculiarly distinct. In the hill behind
-the station, called the Bell-knowe, the ancient quarrymen have left
-numerous wedge-holes and other indications of their labours. Although a
-fosse usually surrounded the ramparts of a station, and although sir
-Walter Scott has sung of—
-
- The moated mound of Risingham,
-
-[Sidenote: RISINGHAM.]
-
-Risingham does not appear to have been defended in this way. In company
-with the owner of the property, who had a little before thorough-drained
-the ground bordering on the south and east sides of the camp, I sought
-in vain for any traces of a fosse. The ruins of the interior would yield
-a rich harvest to the careful explorer. Recent excavations have revealed
-some chambers of great interest; but, with the exception of those near
-the south-east corner, they have been removed as soon as displayed. Some
-of the buildings were evident restorations of prior structures: a
-circumstance which confirms the conclusion deduced from other
-considerations, that the station was long occupied by the Romans. After
-being deserted, a portion of its north rampart has been carried away by
-the river. Until recently, the remains of the bridge by which
-Watling-street crossed the Rede, on the west side of the station, were
-distinctly visible. The soil which covers the camp is peculiarly rich,
-being replete with animal matter. Many important antiquarian treasures
-have been procured from this spot. The large slab, six feet long, which
-forms the ground-work of the initial letter at the beginning of this
-part, was found among the ruins of the south gateway. The inscription
-mentions the restoration of the gate with the walls of the station
-(PORTAM CUM MURIS VETUSTATE DILAPSIS). The upper part, which is lost,
-probably contained the name of Severus; in what remains, some of the
-titles of Caracalla appear. Geta’s name seems to have been erased. The
-stone is now at Newcastle. Another very fine slab found at this station,
-is at Cambridge. Some of the altars discovered here will be described in
-the last part.
-
-Horsley is naturally surprised that HABITANCUM is not named in the
-Antonine Itinerary. One conjecture in which he indulges, in order to
-account for this is, ‘that the station might be neglected before the
-reign of Caracalla,’ which is proved to be unfounded by the slab already
-referred to, and by the discovery last year of some large fragments of
-inscriptions, mentioning that emperor by his title Adiabenicus. A second
-supposition which he entertains may be the correct one. He says—
-
- Possibly Risingham might be looked on as too near to
- Rochester, to make it another mansion in this route. And
- though two places are sometimes set down in the same iter,
- which are at no greater distance, yet other circumstances
- might render this proper at one place, and not so at another.
-
-It is not improbable that the two stations may have been under one
-command. The exposed situation of BREMENIUM would render it highly
-desirable that the _exploratores_, after having battled for a season
-with the elements and the Caledonians, should be allowed a period of
-comparative relief in some more sheltered spot, such as HABITANCUM.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CORSTOPITUM.]
-
-CORSTOPITUM is the next place that occurs in this ‘iter,’ in which it is
-set down as being twenty miles from BREMENIUM. At the distance of about
-twenty-three English miles from the camp of High Rochester, and on the
-line of Watling-street, are now to be found the remains of the station
-of Corchester.
-
-[Sidenote: CORCHESTER.]
-
-This, which is a little to the west of the town of Corbridge, is
-doubtless the ancient CORSTOPITUM. The station, which is now entirely
-levelled, and can with difficulty be traced, has stood upon a gently
-swelling knoll on the north bank of the Tyne. A bridge, the foundations
-of which the floods of seventeen centuries have spared, connected it
-with the opposite bank of the river; the remains of this bridge are
-precisely similar in appearance to those on the North Tyne at CILURNUM.
-The bridge has crossed the river obliquely, a circumstance which
-corroborates the opinion formerly expressed, that the bridges in these
-parts consisted of horizontal roadways, supported upon piers—unless,
-indeed, we suppose that the Romans were acquainted with the construction
-of the skew-arch. Hutchinson states, that a ‘military way passes from
-this place south-west through Dilston Park, over Hexham Fell to Old Town
-in Allendale, and meets with the Maiden-way at Whitley Castle.’
-Abundance of medals, inscriptions, and other Roman antiquities, have
-been found at Corchester. Pieces of Roman bricks and pots are spread
-over the surface of the ground. The church at Corbridge has been raised
-at the expense of the station. Horsley conceives that this fort was
-abandoned before the compilation of the Notitia, as it is not mentioned
-in that document. It is about two miles south of the Wall.
-
-The large altar which is figured in the initial letter at the beginning
-of this volume, formed, in Horsley’s days, the shaft of the market-cross
-at Corbridge. It is now on the stairs of the entrance-tower, at the
-castle of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The inscription is defaced, but the
-carving on both sides remains; on the one side is a soldier, armed—the
-representative probably of war; on the other is a warrior, having laid
-aside his weapons, dragging an amphora of wine—a picture, emblematic of
-peace. The singular use made of this heathen relic suggests the
-insertion here of the story of the ‘Fairy stone,’ as it is still told in
-this neighbourhood.
-
- A Roman altar in the vicinity of Bywell was, during the ‘troublesome
- times’ of 1715, put to a use little contemplated either by the
- ancients or moderns. It was employed as the post-office of the
- non-juring gentry of the district. The parties, wishing to keep up a
- correspondence with each other, arranged to deposit their
- communications in a hollow of the altar. In the gray of the morning
- little girls clad in green, and trained to the task, approached the
- stone with a dancing step, and, having got the letters, retired with
- antic gestures. So well did they perform their part that they were
- mistaken for fairies, and the object of their visits was not
- discovered for a long time afterwards. The stone was known by the name
- of the Fairy stone.
-
-[Sidenote: CORBRIDGE LANX.]
-
-But the greatest curiosity which has been discovered at CORSTOPITUM, is
-the silver _lanx_, or dish, which is represented on the next page. A
-piece of plate so massive, is of rare occurrence in the stations of the
-North. It is in the possession of the duke of Northumberland. There is
-an accurate cast of it in the Newcastle Museum of Antiquities.
-
-[Illustration: Corbridge Lanx]
-
- 'It was found (says Mr. Robert Cay, in a letter of 4th March 1734)
- near Corbridge, by some ignorant poor people who have cut off the feet
- in such a vile barbarous manner, that they have broke two holes
- through the table, and a small piece off one of the corners too.' It
- is 19½ inches long, and 15 broad; it weighs about 150 ounces. The rim
- of the plate rises nearly an inch above the interior. The figures have
- been punched into form. Gale’s conjecture as to its use is probably
- the correct one. ‘This is big enough (he says) to contain the _exta_
- of a sheep, or other small victims, which seems to me to be the
- likeliest employment for it, and that it was one of these sacrificing
- utensils that Virgil calls _Lances_:
-
- Lancibus et pandis fumantia reddimus exta.’
-
- The principal figures on the plate are probably, those of Diana,
- Minerva, Juno, Vesta, and Apollo.
-
- On the left side of the design is Diana, armed with a bow and arrow.
- Below her feet is an urn with water flowing from it; in front of her,
- is an altar with an offering, of a globular form, upon it, and below
- the altar, is a dog of the greyhound species, looking up to the
- goddess.
-
- The next figure is Minerva. She wears a helmet, and her breast is
- adorned with the Gorgon’s head. A spear is in her left hand. The thumb
- and first two fingers of her right hand are uplifted, as if in the act
- of bestowing a benediction.
-
- The next figure is supposed to be Juno, though no symbol is given by
- which she can be decisively distinguished. Her right hand is uplifted
- in a manner similar to Minerva’s. At her feet lies a dead buck.
-
- Vesta succeeds. She is seated; part of her peplus or mantle is drawn
- over her head; the two fore-fingers of her left hand, which is
- apparently resting upon her bosom, are upraised. Beneath the goddess
- is an altar with the fire burning.
-
- On the right of the piece is Apollo, standing under a canopy. His bow
- is in his left hand, a flower in his right. His lyre is on the ground
- by his side, and a griffin is below him.
-
- An eagle and some other birds are among the branches of the tree in
- the upper part of the piece.
-
- Under the whole representation some recondite meaning is probably
- concealed, which can only be a subject of conjecture. (_See Hodgson’s
- Northumberland_, II. iii. 246.)
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Astarte]
-
-[Sidenote: GREEK ALTAR.]
-
-Two important altars, with Greek inscriptions have been found at
-Corbridge. One is dedicated to the Tyrian Hercules; the other, which is
-represented in the adjoining wood-cut, to Astarte, the Ashtaroth of the
-Scriptures.
-
- ΑΣΤΑΡΤΗΣ
- ΒΩΜΟΝ Μ’
- ΕΣΟΡΑΣ
- ΠΟΥΛΧΕΡ Μ’
- ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ
-
- Of Astarte,
- The altar
- You see,
- Pulcher
- replaced.
-
-Josephus tells us, that Hiram king of Tyre, built two temples, which he
-dedicated to these deities. The Israelites, in forsaking the living God,
-not unfrequently betook themselves to the abominations of the Sidonians.
-
- ... With these in troop
- Came Astoreth, whom the Ph[oe]nicians call’d
- Astarte, queen of heaven, with crescent horns;
- To whose bright image nightly by the moon
- Sidonian virgins paid their vows and songs,
- In Sion also not unsung,...
-
-It is deeply and painfully interesting to dig up in our British soil
-decided traces of this gross idolatry.[129]
-
-
-[Sidenote: HEXHAM CRYPT.]
-
-_HEXHAM_ is generally admitted by antiquaries to have been a Roman town,
-though the proof of it is not absolutely decisive. St. Wilfrid built a
-church and monastery here about the year 673, after the Roman manner,
-which was considered the wonder of the age. We are told by the
-historians of that period that ‘secret cells and subterranean oratories
-were laid with wondrous industry beneath’ the building. Some vaults
-[Illustration: Crypt of Hexham Abbey Church] still remaining probably
-formed the crypt of this ancient structure. The stones which compose
-this under-ground building are all Roman; the peculiar mode in which
-they are chiselled is exhibited in the annexed wood cut, representing
-one of its chambers. The walls exhibit several Roman mouldings and
-cornices, besides inscriptions.[130] It is not likely that these stones
-would be brought from Corbridge (the nearest Roman station, if Hexham be
-not one), which is on the other side of the river, and three miles
-distant; especially as there is abundance [Illustration: Slab to Severus
-at Hexham] of stone in the immediate neighbourhood. The most important
-of the inscribed slabs which are walled up in the crypt, is here
-exhibited; it is one[Sidenote: INSCRIPTION TO SEVERUS.] of the
-inscriptions bearing the names of the emperor Septimius Severus (who
-added to his own name that of his predecessor, Pertinax), of his eldest
-son, Caracalla, who styled himself Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Pius, and
-of Geta, his younger son, whose name and title have obviously been
-erased from the tablet, an operation which we find has been studiously
-performed on many similar inscriptions, doubtless after his murder by
-his unnatural brother Caracalla. The date of this inscription is marked
-by the union of Severus and his two sons in the imperial title. Its
-object does not appear from what remains of the stone, further than that
-it recorded some act done by a vexillation of some portion of the Roman
-forces.
-
-The mediæval antiquities of Hexham are highly interesting. The gateways
-and embattled towers will repay examination; but the gem of this fine
-old town, which in the Saxon era was an episcopal see, is the
-Abbey-church. The choir and transepts alone remain; they exhibit much
-beauty of detail, and their several parts blend most harmoniously
-together. The church formerly possessed the right of sanctuary. The
-frid-stool is still in its place. The cross which marked the eastern
-boundary of the privileged territory is nearly entire, and is kept near
-its original site, in the yard of the poor-house. The _disjecta membra_
-of that which marked the northern boundary of the sanctuary lie by the
-side of the road going over Cross-bank, a hill between two and three
-miles north of Hexham, and from which the traveller approaching the town
-from the north first obtains a view of the venerable abbey-church, and
-surrounding town. The prospect is now, to the peaceful antiquary,
-guiltless of his neighbour’s blood, singularly interesting—what must it
-have been when descried in ancient times by panting fugitives, pressed
-by an avenging hand, and fleeing to the sanctuary! This cross remains a
-monument of the disordered state of society in the middle ages, and
-leads the reflecting passenger to contrast his present tranquility with
-the insecurity of former times. No favoured spot is now necessary to
-shield the innocent from the rage of a stronger assailant, or will be
-allowed to stay the course of justice upon the guilty.
-
-
-[Sidenote: EBCHESTER.]
-
-_EBCHESTER_, situated upon the line of Watling-street, is, as its name
-indicates, a Roman station. Surtees thus describes it:—
-
- Ebchester stands at the foot of a long descent, yet on the edge of a
- still steeper declivity. Its cottages and trees are scattered along a
- lofty brow overhanging the green haugh-lands of the Derwent. On the
- very edge of the steep, the vallum of a Roman station is still
- extremely distinct, and the little chapel of Ebchester, a farmhold,
- and a few thatched cottages, stand within the very area of the ancient
- VINDOMORA—if VINDOMORA it be, for the point is by no means stated as
- beyond controversy.
-
-
-[Sidenote: LANCHESTER.]
-
-_LANCHESTER_ is, on the authority of the itinerary of Richard of
-Cirencester, conceived to be the EPEIACUM of the Romans. Though several
-miles removed from the Wall, its position upon Watling-street would
-render it useful as a supporting station. It occupies a lofty brow to
-the west of the village, on a tongue of land formed by the junction of
-two small streams. On three sides the ground falls from the camp; on the
-west only it is commanded by a high moorland hill, whose prospect ranges
-from the Cheviots, in the north, to the Cleveland hills, in the south.
-The station is one of the largest class, containing an area of about
-eight acres. The walls may be distinguished on all sides. The south
-wall, though deprived of its facing-stones, stands eight feet high, and
-shews nine courses of thin rubble-stones arranged edgewise in a leaning
-direction. A layer of very rough mortar has been placed on each course
-of stones after they have been placed in their bed. On the outside of
-the south-east angle a subterranean chamber has been discovered; the
-descent to it is by steps. It is difficult to conjecture the use to
-which it has been put; a similar chamber was found to occupy the same
-position outside the camp at Plumpton. The masonry of some chambers near
-the south-east corner of the station, which when first opened were found
-to be full of bones, is very perfect. The remains of a hypocaust may be
-seen near to the place where the pretorium has probably stood.
-Lanchester seems to have been garrisoned almost throughout the entire
-period of Roman occupation; a large proportion of the coins found at it
-are of the higher empire, but the series extends down to Valentinian.
-The name of Gordian occurs on two inscriptions as the restorer of some
-of its buildings. The destruction of the station was probably owing to
-some sudden and violent catastrophe. The observations of Surtees on this
-subject, are applicable to many of the camps of the Barrier.
-
- The red ashes of the basilica and bath, the vitrified flooring, and
- the metallic substances evidently run by fire, which occur amongst the
- ruins, form a strong indication that the structure perished in the
- flames.
-
-It has already been observed (p. 261) that two aqueducts have brought
-water to the station from a distance of some miles. This is the more
-remarkable as several deep wells have been found near the camp, and
-there are open springs within fifty paces from the south and east wall.
-
-The surrounding moor abounds in iron-stone; of this the Romans seem to
-have availed themselves, for immense heaps of slag, of ancient
-production, have been found in the neighbourhood.
-
-
-_BINCHESTER_ is still farther to the south, on the same line of road;
-but, on account of its distance, would have but little intercourse with
-the stations immediately connected with the Barrier. It contains some
-hypocausts, which are peculiarly worthy of careful examination.
-
-
-Retracing our steps and again penetrating the region of fierce
-Caledonian onslaughts and border feuds, we find Bewcastle occupying a
-position north of the Wall, on the Maiden-way, corresponding with that
-which Risingham does on Watling-street.
-
-
-[Sidenote: BEWCASTLE.]
-
-_BEWCASTLE_ stands in the bottom of a basin formed by a wide
-amphitheatre of bleak and lofty hills. The camp occupies a platform
-slightly elevated above the rivulet, the Kirkbeck, which washes its
-southern ramparts and permeates the valley. The northern side is the
-weakest part of the position, but even here there is a depression in the
-contour of the ground, which would render it more easily defensible. In
-this quarter too there are marks of artificial fortifications beyond the
-station wall. The fort, in order to suit the nature of the ground, is
-not of the usual square form, but is six-sided; it probably encloses an
-area of about four acres. The ground on which the camp stands is
-reckoned the most fertile in all Cumberland. It was in the depth of
-winter that I visited it (1, Jan. 1850) but even then the space occupied
-by the fortifications might be distinguished by its peculiar verdure. To
-the east of the camp are some barrow-like mounds, and on the west of it
-are terraced lines, bearing testimony to the agricultural industry of
-the Romans. On the eminence westward of the camp are the foundations of
-square buildings, probably posts of observation. On the lofty summits of
-some of the adjacent hills the concentric lines of British encampments
-plainly appear. They still seem to bid defiance to the Roman fort in the
-valley.
-
-Within the lines of the camp, and protected by a moat of its own, is a
-dark and frowning castle; it is tersely described in an ancient
-manuscript, ‘as a strength against the Scots in time of warre.’ The
-captain of Bewcastle was a military chief of considerable power; he is
-frequently mentioned in Border minstrelsy. The castle is built with the
-stones of the station. Its masonry is very rude; the mortar which has
-been used is rough, containing, besides gravel and sand, pieces of coal,
-charcoal, burnt clay, and broken bricks. A tower, apparently added after
-the main structure was reared, guards the entrance-gateway.
-
-This, or some previous building, gives name to Bewcastle—Bueth’s-castle.
-
- Bueth was, before the conquest, lord of Bewcastle and Gilsland. After
- some previous changes, Henry II., by a grant, dated ‘_apud Novum
- Castrum super Tynam_,’ gave the manor of Gilsland to Hubert de
- Vallibus, one of his Norman retainers. The Saxons were not men quietly
- to submit to wrong. Gilbert Bueth, son of the dispossessed proprietor,
- collecting a band of followers, made frequent incursions into his
- ancient patrimony. Robert de Vallibus, son of Hubert, the former
- possessor, suggested a conference, at which he basely assassinated the
- unarmed Saxon. Expiation was easy; the[Sidenote: ORIGIN OF LANERCOST
- PRIORY.] priory of Lanercost was founded and richly endowed. It is
- traditionally said that part of the expiatory ceremony consisted in
- the demolition of the walls of his castle at Castle-steads
- (Cambeck-fort), and sowing the site with salt. The baronial residence
- was transferred to Irthington, where, as already observed, some traces
- of it remain. Robert de Vallibus was afterwards employed by Henry II.
- as a judge of assize. How lax must the state of morality have been,
- when a murderer was allowed to sit upon the bench! His ill-gotten
- lands were not permitted to descend to his posterity, William, his
- only child, dying before him.
-
-The far-famed Runic cross, respecting which so much has been written,
-holds its ancient place in the church-yard of Bewcastle. The
-inscription, which is now hardly legible, is pronounced by Kemble
-(Archæologia xxviii. 347) to be an Anglo-Saxon, not a Norse one. Two
-Roman inscriptions, not now to be found, have been described as
-belonging to this station. One of them, which Camden saw used as a
-grave-stone, bore the letters,
-
- LEG[IO] II AVG[VSTA]
- FECIT
-
- The second legion, the august,
- made _this_.
-
-The other, much fractured, Horsley saw fulfilling the same office. He
-says, ‘I take it to have been an honorary monument erected to Hadrian,
-by the _Legio secunda Augusta_, and the _Legio vicesima_.’
-
-
-[Sidenote: WHITLEY CASTLE.]
-
-_WHITLEY CASTLE_ is the modern name of another outpost, which is
-situated on the Maiden-way, as far south of the Wall as Bewcastle is
-north of it. An imperfect inscription found here, and described by
-Camden and Horsley, commemorates the dedication of a temple to
-Caracalla, in his fourth consulship (A.D. 213), by the third cohort of
-the Nervii. As the Notitia places the third cohort of the Nervii at
-ALIONIS, it is conceived that such may have been the ancient designation
-of the camp at Whitley Castle. The station stands upon the gently
-inclining side of a hill, about two miles north of the town of Alston.
-The railway approaches within a few furlongs of it. The form of the camp
-is peculiar, being that of a trapezoid, whereas the usual figure is that
-of a parallelogram. In another respect it differs from all the other
-camps that we have hitherto examined; it is surrounded by an
-extraordinary number of earthen entrenchments. On the western side,
-which is the most exposed, there are no fewer than seven ditches, with
-corresponding ramparts, and on the north, four. These earth-works are in
-a state of wonderful preservation. The strength of these lines, and the
-comparative absence, both within and without the station, of Roman
-stones, render it probable that the garrison trusted to breastworks of
-earth, rather than of masonry. The general level of the camp is elevated
-above the surface of the contiguous ground, in consequence, probably, of
-the mass of ruins which it contains. Its whole area, including the
-entrenchments and ditches, amounts to nine acres.
-
-A large altar procured from the station is in the neighbouring farm
-house; the inscription is illegible, but it has on the upper part of its
-four sides, a carving in bold relief.
-
-[Sidenote: ROMAN DUNGHILL.]
-
-It is no unusual thing to find in the neighbourhood of a Roman station
-manifest traces of the dunghill of the fort. As might be expected, such
-a repository is replete with objects which, though once despised and
-cast away as worthless, well repay the search of the antiquary. Not far
-from the north-east angle of this camp a large dunghill was found, which
-has been recently removed for farm purposes. It contained numerous
-fragments of Roman earthenware and glass, as well as armillæ of jet or
-fine cannel coal. Its most curious product, however, was a large store
-of old shoes or sandals. The soles were all made ‘right and left,’ and
-consisted of several folds of leather fastened together with
-round-headed nails. (See Plate XVIII. figs. 3, 4, 5.) Were this the only
-place where these curious objects have been found, we might hesitate to
-assign to them a primeval date, but very many having been discovered in
-digging the foundations of Carlisle gaol, and some in clearing the
-buildings at CILURNUM, as well as other places, and being accompanied in
-every instance by other articles of undoubted Roman manufacture, we are
-entitled to consider them as the produce of Roman hands. Modern artists
-might examine them with advantage; Roman shoe-makers thought it no
-dishonour to let nature prescribe the form that their handy-work should
-assume.
-
-[Sidenote: WALLIS’S ENTHUSIASM.]
-
-Wallis, the author of the Natural History and Antiquities of
-Northumberland, was born within the ramparts of this camp; the house is
-now removed. In the preface to his work he accounts for the antiquarian
-bias of his mind in the following strain:—
-
- Northumberland being Roman ground, and receiving my first breath in
- one of their _castra_, I was led by a sort of enthusiasm to an inquiry
- and search after their towns, their cities, and temples, their baths,
- their altars, their _tumuli_, their military ways, and other remains
- of their splendour and magnificence; which will admit of a thousand
- views and reviews, and still give pleasure to such as have a gust for
- any thing Roman; every year almost presenting new discoveries of the
- wisdom, the contrivance, ingenuity, and elegance of that respectable
- people.
-
-Although nearly a century has elapsed since Wallis wrote this, the field
-of Romano-British antiquities still retains much of the fertility he
-ascribes to it, and doubtless, has stores yet in reserve for the
-assiduous inquirer.
-
-
-Before proceeding to the stations which supported the western extremity
-of the Wall, there are two camps, one to the east, and another to the
-west of the Maiden-way, which demand a little of our attention.
-
-
-_OLD TOWN._—Horsley entertained the idea that he had found the remains
-of a Roman camp at Old Town, near Catton Beacon, in Allendale. Hodgson
-treats the opinion with some degree of ridicule. I am disposed to think
-that Horsley is right, though the inquiries I made on the spot did not
-lead me to a decision of the question.
-
-[Sidenote: STATION NEAR BRAMPTON.]
-
-_BRAMPTON._—About a mile west of the modern town of Brampton, upon a
-gentle eminence commanding a view in every direction of a most beautiful
-country, are the traces of a small Roman camp. The father of English
-topography, guided in some measure by the similarity of the names, fixed
-the ancient BREMETENRACUM at Brampton; but Horsley, in consequence of
-the absence of Roman remains, demurred to the correctness of the
-conclusion. It is not surprising that this camp escaped the attention of
-Horsley, as it is situated within the ancient park of Brampton,
-considerable portions of which were, a century ago, covered with tangled
-brushwood and venerable forest trees. Its trenches, though still
-visible, are fast disappearing; every time it is ploughed, the furrow is
-turned into the hollow of its fosse. Though hundreds of cart-loads of
-stones have been taken from it, the ground on which the camp stood is
-thickly strewed with stony fragments. On walking over the spot, I picked
-up a piece of dove-coloured pottery, part of a millstone, and several
-portions of Roman tile. Besides individual coins which have occasionally
-been found here, an earthen jar, containing a large hoard, was turned up
-by the plough in 1826. It contained not fewer than five thousand pieces,
-all of them of the lower empire.
-
-If Whitley Castle be the ALIONIS of the Notitia, this, as coming next in
-order, may be, as Camden conjectured, BREMETENRACUM.[131]
-
-[Sidenote: ANCIENT TUMULI.]
-
-In the plain to the south of the camp, are some remarkable _tumuli_. One
-mound of large dimensions, standing alone, is covered with oak trees.
-Three others of small size, and close to each other, are at the eastern
-extremity of the same field. Two of them are circular, and about twelve
-yards in diameter; the third is elongated, and measures about thirty-two
-yards in length. Whatever opinion we may form respecting the larger
-mound, there can be no doubt that the smaller ones are artificial
-barrows; the hollow made by the excavation of the soil for their
-formation is discernible. They do not appear to have been opened, but
-will no doubt soon yield up their long-hoarded treasures to some
-enterprising antiquary.
-
-Between the station and the town of Brampton, may be noticed the faint
-traces of an earthen encampment of the usual Roman form; it is fast
-disappearing under the action of the plough. West of the station, stands
-an ancient church, formed of Roman stones. Though the living have
-forsaken the venerable pile, the dead are still being laid in its
-church-yard.
-
-
-We now approach the stations which supported the Barrier near its
-western extremity; it will be well to examine first those north of the
-Wall.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CAMP AT NETHERBY.]
-
-_NETHERBY._—The nucleus of the seat of sir James Graham is a border
-tower, with walls of great thickness. These walls were doubtless erected
-at the expense of the ramparts and buildings of the camp, within which
-the mansion is situated. The form of the station cannot now be
-satisfactorily defined; but the number and importance of the coins,
-altars, and sculptures, which have been found within it, prove that it
-was a place of consequence during the period of Roman occupation. The
-site, though not greatly elevated, commands an extensive prospect in
-every direction. The bank on its western side, which slopes down to the
-valley of the Esk, is said to have been washed in ancient days by the
-waters of the Solway.
-
-Among the many important inscriptions discovered here, is one to
-Hadrian, closely resembling those which have been found at Milking-gap,
-Bradley, and other places. The stone has long been lost, but in Gough’s
-Camden the inscription is given thus—
-
- IMP. CAES. TRA.
- HADRIANO
- AVG.
- LEG. II. AVG. F.
-
-[Sidenote: SCULPTURE AT NETHERBY.]
-
-Some very fine sculptured stones, found in the station, are preserved on
-the spot. Amongst them is one which is figured on the adjoining page. A
-youth stands in a niche, a mural crown is on his head, a cornucopia in
-his left hand, and a patera, from which he pours out a libation on an
-altar, in his right; it is one of the finest carvings that is to be met
-with on the line of the Wall. From the grooves which are cut in the
-lower part of the stone, [Illustration: Genius of the Wall] we may
-naturally conclude, that the figure has been formerly set in masonry,
-perhaps to adorn the approach to some temple. Gordon supposes the figure
-to be intended for Hadrian; Lysons thinks that it was meant for the
-‘Genius of the Wall of Severus’—let us combine the two ideas, and
-suppose, that the figure is that of Hadrian, representing, as he had the
-best right to do, ‘the Genius of the Barrier.’
-
-Reference will afterwards be made to the figures of the _Deæ Matres_
-which have been found here.
-
-[Sidenote: BLATUM BULGIUM.]
-
-Netherby is supposed to be the CASTRA EXPLORATORUM of the second
-Antonine ‘Iter,’ which was garrisoned by a _numerus exploratorum_. Its
-situation is very suitable for an exploratory garrison; and its distance
-from Carlisle on the one hand, and Middleby on the other, nearly
-corresponds with the distance at which it is set down in the Itinerary
-both from LUGUVALLIUM and BLATUM BULGIUM.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CAMP NEAR MIDDLEBY.]
-
-_MIDDLEBY._—To the south of Middleby Kirk, in the county of Dumfries, is
-a camp which is called in the district Burns, or Birrens. It occupies a
-low and sheltered situation, but possesses, notwithstanding,
-considerable natural capabilities of defence. The water of Mein washes
-the earthy scar which forms its southern margin, and the Middleby burn,
-which joins the Mein at the south-east angle of the camp, runs parallel
-to its eastern rampart. It appears, from the plan given in Roy’s
-Military Antiquities, to have been protected, in addition to its stone
-walls, on three sides by four earthen ramparts, with intervening
-ditches; and on the north, which was at once by nature the weakest, and
-the quarter most exposed to the attack of the enemy, by not fewer than
-six. The northern ramparts remain in nearly their original completeness,
-but the overflowings of the Mein on the south, the construction of a
-road on the east, and the operations of agriculture on the west, have
-destroyed the ramparts on these sides. A _procestrium_, or out-work,
-protected by its own ramparts, appears to have been appended to the west
-side of the original camp; or, perhaps, to speak more correctly, the
-suburban buildings, which were situated in this quarter were embraced by
-an additional fortification. In so exposed a situation, such a
-precaution would be highly proper. The field in which the _procestrium_
-was, has been brought into cultivation, and a great number of carved
-stones, which were found in it, taken to Hoddam Castle. The corners of
-the camp are, as is usually the case, rounded; the four gateways are
-clearly discernible. The interior area of the station measures three
-acres and three-quarters. On the south side of the station a large
-vault, arched with stone, was laid open more than a century ago. Popular
-credulity has magnified it into an underground passage, which extended
-all the way to Burnswark; the people in the neighbourhood aver that they
-have known persons go a considerable way along it.
-
-The altars and sculptures found at this place are engraved and
-described, apparently with great accuracy, in Stuart’s Caledonia Romana.
-Amongst them is a stone tablet, bearing the words—
-
- IMP. CAESARI TRAIAN. LEG. SECVND. AVG.
-
-A piece of another, with the inscription—
-
- LEG. XX. VICT.
-
-The lamented author of this work says—
-
- With the exception of a brass coin of Germanicus, and the inscription
- containing the name of Hadrian, the greater part, if not all the
- antiquities found at Birrens, may be ascribed perhaps to the third or
- fourth century. The striking similarity of style and execution which
- exists between them and the bulk of those discovered in the north of
- England, of which the dates can be ascertained, is sufficient to stamp
- them as the productions of a period subsequent to the reign of
- Septimius Severus.—_Caledonia Romana_, 130.
-
-It did not belong to the author’s subject; to inquire, how the fact of
-so few of the memorials of the mural line being of the age of Severus,
-comported with the popular idea that he built the Wall!
-
-
-[Sidenote: BURNSWARK HILL.]
-
-_BURNSWARK_, or Birrenswork.—A solitary hill, nearly three miles to the
-north-west of Middleby, rises to the height of nearly seven hundred and
-forty feet above the level of the sea. 'On its top lies an unequal
-plain, about nine hundred feet long, by four hundred and fifty of mean
-width—almost inaccessible on two of its sides, and by no means of easy
-attainment on any.'[132] From this elevated summit, the mountain ridges
-which are scattered over not fewer than six of the Scottish counties can
-be descried; looking eastward, the Nine-nicks of Thirlwall are in sight;
-southward, the familiar forms of Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Cross-fell
-rise into view; to the south-west, the craggy peaks of the Isle of Man
-arrest the attention in favourable states of the atmosphere; and, not
-unfrequently a long, black streak, on the distant verge of the ocean,
-indicates the position of Ireland. According to the former political
-divisions of the British empire, four kingdoms were thus to be seen from
-Burnswark-hill.
-
-So commanding a position was not neglected by the ancient Britons.
-'Around the area of the summit may still be traced the remains of a
-wall, composed of earth and stones, which seems to have been raised at
-every spot where the precipitous rock did not of itself afford
-sufficient protection.' Unhappily most of the stones have been hurled
-into the valley below, to form a long boundary fence. The enclosure is
-divided into two compartments of nearly equal size; one of them contains
-a circular range of stones, the remains apparently of an ancient cairn
-or watch-tower.
-
-[Sidenote: CAMPS ON THE HILL.]
-
-On two of the sides of Burnswark are the vestiges of Roman military
-works. The largest, which is on the southern slope, encloses an area of
-twelve acres. It has been originally encompassed by two ramparts,
-separated, as usual, by a deep trench; it had three gates on the upper,
-and apparently the same number on the under side, with a single one at
-each end. These gateways have been protected by circular mounds, thrown
-up before them, and fortified on the top. The pretorium, or general’s
-quarters, defended by an entrenchment of its own, was placed on the
-north-west angle of the camp. This circumstance would seem to warrant us
-in supposing, that, even in the stationary camps of the Wall, the
-pretorium was not uniformly placed in the upper part of the central
-area, where, according to the usual theory, we should expect to find it.
-All the entrenchments are of earth, and on the north side they are
-peculiarly bold.
-
-The camp on the northern face of the hill has been constructed upon the
-same principle, but is in a less perfect condition. It is of the same
-length, but has only half its breadth. A covered way conducts from the
-one to the other. It is probable that both these camps have been the
-summer quarters, _castra æstiva_, of the garrison at Middleby. So
-important a position would not, however, at any period of the year be
-abandoned to the enemy; 'when not filled with the tents of its summer
-inhabitants, it is probable that a small garrison was maintained on its
-summit.'[133]
-
-
-[Sidenote: CAMP AT PLUMPTON.]
-
-_PLUMPTON._—Several camps south of the line, and at nearly equal
-distances from the Wall and from one another, added security to the
-fortification in the western district. Plumpton, or Old Penrith, called
-in the locality by the common name of Castlesteads, is a large station
-about thirteen miles south of Carlisle. The conjecture of Horsley
-ascribed to it, the name of BREMETENRACUM. The turnpike-road goes close
-past it, as did the ancient Roman way which led from LUGUVALLIUM to the
-south of Britain. The station presents the usual characteristics of a
-Roman camp. Though not much elevated, it is sufficiently raised to enjoy
-a most extensive view of the surrounding country. The western side is
-the strongest, being protected by the deep but narrow valley in which
-the river Peterel flows. Its ramparts are boldly marked, and the
-interior of the station is filled up to their level by a mass of
-prostrate habitations. The largest heap of ruins is on the north-east
-quarter; it may be the remains of the pretorium. The fosse is well
-defined on the north, south, and west sides. Enough of the eastern gate
-remains to shew that it has been a double portal. One stone of the
-threshold yet retains its position; it is worn by the feet of the
-ancient tenants of the city, and is circularly chafed by the action of
-the door in opening and shutting. Several very large stones, which have
-been used in the construction of the south gateway, lie near their
-original site—some of them yet exhibit the holes in which the pivots of
-the doors turned. The line of the street, which went from the eastern to
-the western gateway (_via principalis_), is discernible. On the outside
-of the south-east corner of the station, an arched chamber, or passage,
-was discovered a few years ago; but it is now filled up with rubbish.
-
-[Sidenote: OLD PENRITH.]
-
-Extensive remains of ancient foundations have been removed from the
-field on the east of the station; here, according to tradition, Old
-Penrith stood. There are also indications of suburban buildings to the
-west of the station. In the neighbourhood of the camp, and even at some
-distance from it, we meet, in the houses and stone fences, with such a
-number of the small neat stones which were usually employed in the
-construction of Roman dwellings, as to impress us with the idea, that
-the suburban buildings were very extensive in every direction.
-
-In recently lowering a part of the turnpike-road, about a quarter of a
-mile south of the station, a well, cased with Roman masonry, was
-exposed. It is square, and is set diagonally to the road; it now
-copiously supplies the neighbouring farm-houses, which formerly were, in
-dry seasons, much inconvenienced by the scarcity of water.
-
-Several sculptured, and inscribed stones, as well as coins, have been
-found here; but none of them are of a nature sufficiently interesting to
-detain us longer at Plumpton.
-
-
-[Sidenote: OLD CARLISLE.]
-
-_OLD CARLISLE_ is nearly two miles south of Wigton. The station is a
-large one; the ruins of its ramparts and interior buildings are boldly
-marked. A double ditch, with intervening vallum, seems to have
-surrounded the fort. The rivulet Wiza runs in a deep ravine immediately
-below the station, on its west side, and at a remoter distance, on its
-south also, thereby lending to it additional strength. [Illustration:
-Altar to Jupiter for the safety of Severus] The remains of suburban
-buildings may still be seen outside the walls, on the south, east, and
-west. Within the fort, a street may be distinctly traced from the north
-to the south gate, and another from the east towards the west. Near the
-centre of the station is a moist spot of ground where we may conceive a
-well to have been. Up to a recent period, the Roman roads leading from
-this station on the one hand, to Carlisle, and on the other to Maryport,
-were distinctly visible. Of the many important inscribed stones dug out
-of this station, that which is represented above is probably the most
-interesting. It was found in the year 1775, about two hundred yards east
-of the camp, and is now in the collection at Netherby.
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- PRO SALVT[E]
- IMP[ERATORIS] L. SEPTIM[II]
- SEVERI AVG[VSTI] N[OSTRI]
- EQVITES ALAE
- AVG[VSTÆ] CVRANTE
- EGNATIO VERE-
- CVNDO PRA-
- EF[ECTVS] POSVERVNT
-
- To Jupiter, best and greatest.
- For the safety
- of the emperor Lucius Septimius
- Severus, our Augustus;
- The cavalry of the wing _styled_
- the Augustan, under the direction of
- Egnatius Vere-
- cundus pre-
- fect, placed _this_.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CAMP NEAR MARYPORT.]
-
-_MARYPORT._—On the cliffs overhanging the modern town of Maryport, are
-the manifest remains of a large Roman station. Its position gives it a
-commanding view of the Solway Firth and Irish Channel. The camp is a
-very large one, and the lines of its ramparts are very boldly developed.
-The eastern side, which is the only one that is not defended by a
-natural defile, or valley, was protected by a double ditch. There are
-some traces of masonry also near the gateway on this side, which render
-it probable that this entrance had been guarded by additional outworks.
-Some portions of this gateway remain; the sill of it is strongly marked
-by the action of chariot wheels. The ruts are about five inches deep,
-and five feet ten inches apart. Within the station is a well, encased
-with circular masonry. The interior of the station was excavated in
-1766. The following account of the appearances which were then observed,
-is given in Lysons’ Cumberland:—
-
- The workmen found the arch of the gate beat violently down and broken;
- and on entering the great street, discovered evident marks of the
- houses having been more than once burnt to the ground and rebuilt; an
- event not unlikely to have happened on so exposed a frontier. The
- streets had been paved with broad flag-stones, much worn by use,
- particularly the steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have been a
- temple. The houses had been roofed by Scotch slates, which, with the
- pegs which fastened them, lay confusedly in the streets. Glass
- vessels, and even mirrors were found; and coals had evidently been
- used in the fire places. Foundations of buildings were round the fort
- on all sides.
-
-[Sidenote: HOSPITAL CAMP.]
-
-In the grounds of Nether Hall, the seat of J. Pocklington Senhouse,
-esq., is a small entrenchment containing an area of about an acre and a
-half; it is in a low and sheltered position, and has probably been a
-retreat for invalids. Ancient roads have diverged from this station,
-leading to Bowness, Wigton, and Papcastle. On draining, lately, the
-fields on the line of road leading towards Old Carlisle, its pavement
-was met with, and to a great extent removed. The body of the road was
-composed of large granite boulders, some of them a quarter of a ton in
-weight; the interstices being filled up with smaller stones. On the
-south side of this way several slabs of stone were found, lying flat on
-the ground. They probably covered the ashes of the dead; fragments of
-red pottery and glass were found beneath them.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Jupiter, Maryport]
-
-[Sidenote: ANTIQUITIES AT NETHER HALL.]
-
-Very numerous and very important are the remains of antiquity which this
-station has yielded. With the exception of one fine altar, they are all
-carefully preserved in the house and grounds at Nether Hall. Many of the
-sculptured stones which have been found here, are more highly carved and
-more tastefully designed than is usual in the mural region. An altar to
-the genius of the place, which has been removed to Whitehaven Castle,
-and will be described in the last Part of this work, is characterized by
-Camden as ‘_ara pulcherrima affabrè artificio antiquo exculpta_,’ and a
-more graceful altar than that which is shewn in this cut, we have not
-met with in our mural peregrination. It is important, also, as proving
-the residence here of the '_prima cohors Hispanorum_.' In consequence,
-probably, of some service done to Hadrian this cohort seems,
-subsequently to the dedication of this altar, to have obtained the title
-of Ælia and the rank of _milliaria equitata_. The inscription may be
-read.—
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- COH[ORS] I HIS[PANORVM]
- CVI PRAE[EST]
- MA[RCVS] MAENI-
- VS AGRIP[PA]
- TRIBV[NVS]
- POS[VIT]
-
- To Jupiter, the best and greatest.
- This first cohort of the Spaniards,
- Commanded by
- Marcus Mæni-
- us Agrippa
- The Tribune,
- Erected _this_.
-
-A plain, square, but now partially fractured, pillar, inscribed, ROMAE
-AETERNAE ET FORTVNAE REDVCI, is reserved to form the concluding cut on
-the last page of this volume. It is a striking memorial at once of the
-aspiring pretensions and blighted prospects of the imperial city. A
-boar, the symbol of the twentieth legion, exhibiting more than the usual
-spirit, forms the vignette at the close of this Part; and the slab which
-bears testimony to the labours which the second, and twentieth, legion
-underwent in constructing the works of this station, is introduced at
-the close of the Part devoted to the discussion of the question ‘Who
-built the Wall?’ There is preserved in the piazza at Nether Hall, a
-carving in relief of a warrior on horseback trampling on a fallen enemy;
-the drawing is not strictly correct, but is very spirited, and the
-foreshortening of the horse’s head remarkably good. Besides these, there
-are several large and instructive altars and funereal slabs, as well as
-a tablet having a Greek inscription to this effect—Aulus Egnatius Pastor
-set up this to Æsculapius.
-
-The minor antiquities consist of fragments of tiles, one of which bears
-the stamp of the first cohort of the Spaniards, a bronze pot bearing a
-marked resemblance to some which are in modern use, several earthenware
-vessels of large size, and quite perfect, implements of iron, and
-weapons of war. Amongst the coins which have been found in the station,
-are a great many forged denarii of Trajan and Hadrian. They are chiefly
-formed of lead, and are badly made; in some instances the metal has not
-reached the centre of the mould, and in scarcely any have the edges of
-the casting been properly dressed. Genuine coin must have been
-exceedingly scarce among the soldiery of the camp, and their credulity
-very great, to allow of the circulation of such base imitations.
-
-[Sidenote: ANCIENT BARROW.]
-
-A large artificial mound or barrow is to the left of the station. The
-inhabitants had an old tradition respecting it; they conceived it to be
-the sepulchre of a king. It was opened in 1763; near its centre ‘the
-pole and shank bones of an ox’ were found, but neither urns, burnt
-bones, nor coins, were discovered.
-
-There is great uncertainty about the ancient name of this fort. Camden
-pronounced it to be OLENACUM, chiefly influenced by the resemblance in
-sound between it and the name of the neighbouring village of
-Ellenborough (Maryport is but of recent origin). This supposition
-gathers force from the fact that in ancient documents the river Ellen,
-which gives name to the place, is written ‘Alne’ and ‘Olne.’
-
-
-_PAPCASTLE_ is about six miles south-east of Maryport. Numerous relics
-of antiquity have been found here, but little now remains to mark it out
-as the site of a Roman station except its extraordinary fertility. The
-town of Cockermouth, a mile to the south of the fort, is supposed to
-have risen from its ruins.
-
-The forts which we have already examined may be thought sufficient to
-support the line of the Wall. The peculiar circumstances of its western
-extremity will perhaps justify us in reckoning Moresby, notwithstanding
-its distance from the Wall, among the out-stations of the Barrier. Not
-only does the Scottish coast, by projecting considerably beyond the
-western termination of the Wall, facilitate the invasion of the
-intra-mural portion of the island—but Ireland, the native land of the
-Scoto-Celts, is nigh at hand. It was necessary to prevent, not only the
-inhabitants of Caledonia landing on the coast of Cumberland, but the
-‘Scots,’ also, who at that time ‘poured out of Ireland.’ Another
-sea-port station, south of Maryport, was therefore requisite.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CAMP AT MORESBY.]
-
-_MORESBY_, within a short distance of Whitehaven, still exhibits the
-remains of a Roman camp. It occupies a commanding position, enjoying
-especially an extensive marine prospect. Its western and southern
-ramparts are still good. The parish church and church-yard border upon
-its eastern wall. A sculptured stone, evidently chiselled by Roman
-hands, lies upon the spot, under the ruined chancel-arch of the old
-church. The important slab, of which the wood-cut gives a
-representation, was found in digging for the foundations of the present
-parish church. It is another of the interesting testimonies which we
-have of the energy and influence of the emperor Hadrian in those parts.
-Like the Milking-gap inscription, it gives the name of the emperor in
-the genitive case.
-
-[Illustration: Slab to Hadrian, Moresby]
-
-[Sidenote: FORT AT MALBRAY.]
-
-A military way ran along the coast from this station, by way of
-Maryport, to the extremity of the Wall, at Bowness. By this means, the
-defence of the coast could be more effectually secured. As the distance
-between Maryport and Bowness is considerable, a small camp was planted
-at Malbray, which is about midway between the two places. The site of it
-is now a ploughed field.
-
-We have now taken a hasty review of the stations on both sides of the
-Wall, which have supported that structure. Never, assuredly, was a
-dangerous frontier more securely guarded. So long as the stations were
-supplied with vigilant and well-disciplined troops, no foe, however well
-armed, could successfully attempt the passage of the Barrier of the
-Lower Isthmus.
-
-[Sidenote: MURAL SCENES.]
-
-Even the cursory view that we have taken of the subject, entitles us to
-say, that the boldness of the design was worthy of Rome in the zenith of
-her glory; and that the manner in which the project was carried out was
-becoming a nation with whom to conceive was to execute.
-
-If we turn our attention for a moment from the work, to the object for
-which it was intended, regret, that man should use his ingenuity for the
-purposes of aggression and bloodshed, will take the place of admiration.
-Milton aptly describes the scenes which this region would often
-witness:—
-
- He look’d, and saw wide territory spread
- Before him, towns, and rural works between,
- Cities of men with lofty gates and towers,
- Concourse in arms, _fierce faces_ threatening war,
- Giants of mighty bone, and bold emprise;
- Part wield their arms ...
- ... now scattered lies
- With carcases and arms th' ensanguined field
- Deserted....
- ... Others from THE WALL defend
- With dart and javelin....
- On each hand slaughter and gigantic deeds.
- Adam was all in tears.
- _Paradise Lost_, xi. 638-674.
-
-[Illustration: Symbol of Leg. xx. v. v.]
-
------
-
-Footnote 128:
-
- An earthen encampment is cut in two by the Newcastle and Berwick
- railway, in the second field south of the Netherton station. In the
- space of three fields, lying east of this camp, three others may be
- distinctly discerned, varying in size from forty to seventy yards
- square. At Dove-cote, which is less than a mile west of Netherton
- station, is a large field covered with the ruins of stone buildings.
- Excavations in one portion at least of the ground yield large
- quantities of glazed pottery. The remains are apparently mediæval, but
- it is remarkable that no record of ruins so extensive is known to
- exist.
-
-Footnote 129:
-
- Hutchinson says (A.D. 1778), the altar to Hercules is in the
- possession of the duke of Northumberland; it is not now among those
- preserved at Alnwick-castle. The altar to Astarte is in the collection
- at Netherby.
-
-Footnote 130:
-
- The last time I was in the crypt, I was impressed with the idea that
- some portions of it were actually of Roman workmanship; if so, St.
- Wilfrid has adapted to his own uses the vaults which he found on the
- spot. The crypt at Ripon, to which this bears a marked resemblance, is
- now understood to be Roman.
-
-Footnote 131:
-
- Horsley, near the close of his work, was less opposed to this view
- than at the beginning. In a note (_p._ 481), he says—‘I see no reason
- to change my sentiments concerning any one of these stations; except
- that I am more inclined to yield to the common opinion, that
- BREMETENRACUM is at Brampton, and to think that OLENACUM and VIROSIDUM
- are transposed; so that OLENACUM may be Ellenborough, on the river
- Ellen, and VIROSIDUM, Old Carlisle, on the Wiza. And if the
- military-way near the Wall, which goes by Watchcross, has led to
- Brampton, as the country people suppose, this might still make it more
- probable, that Brampton is BREMETENRACUM.’
-
-Footnote 132:
-
- Caledonia Romana, 131.
-
-Footnote 133:
-
- Caledonia Romana, 134.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
- ~The Roman Barrier of the
- Lower Isthmus.~
-
-
-
-
- PART V.
- THE QUESTION—WHO BUILT THE WALL?—DISCUSSED.
-
-Our course hitherto has been a detail of facts; now we enter upon the
-region of speculation. In the former Parts of this work, the history of
-the Roman occupation of Britain has been briefly told and an attempt
-made to depict the present condition of the Vallum and Wall, with their
-camps, castles, and outworks; now the question must be put—Is the
-Barrier the Work of one master-mind, or are its several parts the
-productions of different periods, and of different persons? Had the
-statements of the ancient historians upon the subject been explicit and
-consistent, the inquiry would involve simply an appeal to their
-authority; unhappily, the information which they afford is not only very
-meagre, but of a character so unsatisfactory, as to compel us to sift
-their evidence, and to compare it with the facts which we glean from an
-examination of the fortifications themselves.
-
-[Sidenote: AGRICOLA’S WORKS.]
-
-Agricola, we are informed by Tacitus, erected forts both on the Lower
-and Upper Isthmus; we are nowhere told that he drew walls, whether of
-earth or stone, across either of them. The northern rampart of the
-Vallum has by many been conceived to be the work of Agricola. In the
-absence of any direct historical testimony bearing upon this subject,
-the circumstance that the lines of the Vallum pursue a course precisely
-parallel to each other, must be considered as fatal to this theory. It
-is altogether incredible, that two engineers should at different periods
-construct independent works, without crossing each other’s ramparts. In
-Roy’s Military Antiquities, several instances are given where the
-trenches of one encampment cut arbitrarily those of another, the troops
-who last occupied the post, not seeming to pay the least attention to
-the works of their predecessors; the lines of the Vallum would doubtless
-exhibit the same appearance had they been the works of different
-periods. The claims of Agricola to the authorship of any part of the
-Vallum may therefore at once be set aside, and the inquiry be confined
-to the relative claims of Hadrian and Severus.
-
-[Sidenote: HADRIAN AND SEVERUS.]
-
-If the parallelism of the lines of the Vallum be fatal to the theory,
-that one of the mounds is the work of Agricola, and the others the work
-of Hadrian, a similar mode of reasoning leads to the conclusion, that
-the Vallum and the Wall cannot be independent structures. If Severus,
-finding that the earth-works of Hadrian had fallen into decay, or were
-no longer sufficient to wall out the Caledonians, had determined to
-erect a more formidable Barrier, would he not have mapped out its track
-without any reference to the former ruinous and inefficient erection?
-Had he done so, we should find the lines taking independent
-courses—sometimes contiguous, occasionally crossing each other;
-sometimes widely separated, seldom pursuing for any distance a parallel
-course, but the Wall, as the latest built, uniformly seizing the
-strongest points, whether previously occupied by the Vallum or not.
-This, however, is not the case; the Wall and Vallum, in crossing the
-island, pursue precisely the same track from sea to sea; for the most
-part they are in close companionship, and in no instance does the Wall
-cut in upon the trenches of the Vallum. At the first view of the
-subject, therefore, we should be disposed to question the accuracy of
-the opinion which gives to these works distinct dates, and ascribes the
-Vallum to Hadrian, and the stone Wall to Severus. Before further
-prosecuting this inquiry, it will be well to lay before the reader all
-the statements of the ancient historians upon the matter in question; he
-will by this means see the necessity of appealing to the structures
-themselves for a satisfactory decision of the question.
-
-[Sidenote: TESTIMONY OF HISTORIANS.]
-
-Herodian was contemporary with Severus, and professes to have been an
-eye-witness of all that he relates. He gives a detailed account of the
-emperor’s proceedings in Britain, but does not once mention the Wall.
-Dion Cassius was also contemporary with Severus. As before observed,
-that part of the original work which treats of Britain is lost; we have,
-however, Xiphiline’s abridgment of it. The only reference which he makes
-to the Wall, comports with its existence previous to the arrival of
-Severus in Britain, Speaking of that emperor’s expedition against the
-Caledonians, he says—
-
- Nor did he ever return from this expedition, but died three years
- after he first set out from Rome. He got a prodigious mass of riches
- in Britain. The two most considerable bodies of people in that island,
- and to which almost all the rest relate, are the Caledonians and the
- Meatæ. _The latter dwell near the Barrier Wall_ (οιχουσι δε οἱ μεν
- Μαιαται προς αυτῳ τῳ διατειχισματι, ὁ την νῆσον διχῆ τεμνει) _which
- divides the island into two parts_.
-
-Spartian, writing about A.D. 280, is the first person who gives us any
-direct information about the erection of a Wall; and it is on his
-testimony chiefly that the credit of the work has been given to Severus.
-Speaking of Hadrian, he says—
-
- He went to Britain where he corrected many things, and first drew a
- Wall (_murumque primus duxit_) eighty miles long, to separate the
- Romans from the barbarians.
-
-No testimony could be more explicit than this in favour of the view that
-Hadrian built the Wall. As this writer, however, subsequently ascribes
-the work to Severus, many are of opinion that Spartian here speaks of
-the Vallum, not of the stone Wall. Mere verbal criticism will not decide
-the point, but it may be observed in passing, that although the words
-_murus_ and _vallum_ are occasionally interchanged by Latin authors, the
-term (_murus_) which Spartian uses in the passage, taken strictly, means
-a stone wall. Speaking of Severus, the same writer says—
-
- He fortified Britain with a Wall drawn (_muro ducto_) across the
- island, and ending on each side at the sea, which was the chief glory
- of his reign, and for which he received the name of Britannicus.
-
-The same writer, in a subsequent chapter, makes a second reference to
-the Wall, which is of some importance in discussing the question.
-Narrating an incident which occurred near the Wall, he says—
-
- After the Wall or Vallum in Britain was completed, and the emperor was
- returning to the next stage _not as conqueror only, but as founder of
- eternal peace_, and was thinking within himself what omen might happen
- to him, an Ethiopian soldier, famous as a mimic, and noted for his
- jokes, crossed his path, crowned with cypress. Struck with the colour
- of the man, and his crown, he was angry with him, and ordered him to
- be put out of his sight, when the fellow is reported, by way of a
- joke, to have said—'Thou hast been everything—conquered everything:
- now conqueror, be a god!'
-
-Julius Capitolinus, a writer who flourished about the same time as
-Spartian (A.D. 280) speaking of the Antonine Wall, uses an expression
-which seems to imply, that the only previously existing Barrier was one
-of turf. He says—
-
- Antoninus, by his legate Lollius Urbicus, conquered the Britons, the
- barbarians being secluded by _another_ earthen wall (_alio muro
- cespiticio ducto_).
-
-All the remaining classical historians sum up in favour of Severus;
-they, however, probably only re-echo the statements of Spartian, with a
-slight addition of errors of their own. Eusebius Pamphilius says, that—
-
- Clodius Albinus being slain at Lyons, Severus made war upon the
- Britons, and in order to render the subject provinces more secure from
- barbaric invasion, he drew a Wall from sea to sea, an hundred and
- thirty-two miles long.
-
-Aurelius Victor, who wrote about A.D. 360, recording his great exploits,
-says—
-
- He achieved greater things than those, for after repulsing the enemy
- in Britain, he drew a Wall from sea to sea.
-
-The younger Victor, in his epitome of the work of the elder, says—
-
- He drew a Vallum thirty-two miles long from sea to sea.
-
-Eutropius wrote about the year 360. He says—
-
- Severus’s last war was in Britain; he drew a Wall of thirty-two miles
- from sea to sea.
-
-Paulus Orosius, who wrote A.D. 417, says, that the conqueror Severus—
-
- Having fought many severe battles, determined to separate the part of
- the island which he had recovered, from the tribes that remained
- unsubdued, and, therefore, drew a deep fosse, and a very strong Vallum
- (_magnam fossam firmissimumque vallum_), strengthened with numerous
- towers, from sea to sea, over a space of one hundred and thirty-two
- miles.
-
-Cassiodorus, who wrote A.D. 520, gives a similar testimony. Among the
-events of the consulship of Aper and Maximus (A.D. 207), he enumerates
-the transference of the war by Severus to Britain—
-
- Where, that he might render the subject provinces more secure against
- the incursions of the barbarians, he drew a Wall (_vallum_) from sea
- to sea, one hundred and thirty-two miles in length.
-
-[Sidenote: VALUE OF THEIR TESTIMONY.]
-
-Such are the statements of the Roman historians respecting the
-authorship of the Wall. Several circumstances tend to invalidate the
-claim which they make in behalf of Severus. The first author who
-attributes the Wall to Severus is Spartian, a weak writer, who lived in
-an ignorant age, and nearly a century after the time of Severus. Surely
-his assertion will not be allowed to outweigh the negative testimony of
-Herodian and Dion Cassius, the contemporaries of Septimius Severus. Of
-all the authors who mention the length of the Wall, the only one who
-approaches correctness is Spartian, when speaking of the Wall, which he
-states that Hadrian drew from sea to sea; eighty Roman miles is very
-nearly the true length. The other writers call it thirty-two, [Sidenote:
-SPARTIAN INCONSISTENT.]or one hundred and thirty-two. Admitting, as some
-have supposed, that the larger number is an error, occasioned by some
-careless transcriber’s inserting in the copies the centurial number (C),
-which did not exist in the original, the difficulty is not removed.
-Thirty-two Roman miles is the length of the Barrier of the Upper
-Isthmus, not of the Lower, and these writers seem to have confounded the
-one with the other. Buchanan, Usher, and several writers, who were as
-capable of weighing the evidence furnished by the ancient historians as
-we are, have accordingly maintained, that the Wall which extended from
-the Forth to the Clyde, is that which was reared by Severus. This
-opinion we now know, from the inscriptions found upon it, to be
-erroneous; but the fact that it was entertained by such able scholars,
-proves the incompleteness of the historic evidence upon the subject.
-Milton correctly estimates the vague nature of this testimony. He
-writes—
-
- Severus, on the frontiers of what he had firmly conquered, builds a
- wall across the island from sea to sea; which our author judges the
- most magnificent of all his other deeds; and that he thence received
- the style of Britannicus; in length a hundred and thirty-two miles.
- Orosius adds, it is fortified with a deep trench, and between certain
- spaces many towers or battlements. The place whereof, some will have
- to be in Scotland, the same which Lollius Urbicus had walled before.
- Others affirm it only Hadrian’s work re-edified; both plead
- authorities, and the ancient track, yet visible: but this I leave,
- among the studious of these antiquities, to be discussed more at
- large.—(_History of England_, _bk._ ii.)
-
-Spartian, moreover, invalidates his own testimony when he says, that the
-erection of this Wall was the greatest glory of Severus’s reign (_quod
-maximum ejus imperii decus est_). The Wall is indeed a magnificent work;
-it is, as Stukely characterizes it, ‘the noblest monument’ of Roman
-power ‘in Europe;’ but if reared by Severus, it is, a lasting monument
-of his failure. He came to Britain panting for renown—he resolved to
-reduce the whole island to his subjection—to make the sea-girt cliffs of
-Northern Caledonia his barrier. The efforts which he put forth were
-worthy of his resolve—‘In a word,’ says Dion Cassius, ‘Severus lost
-fifty thousand men there, and yet quitted not his enterprise.’ Were the
-abandonment of the Wall of Antonine, and the withdrawal of the frontier
-to the southern Isthmus, where Hadrian, eighty years before, had
-prudently fixed it, the glorious results of all his aspirations?
-Spartian assuredly errs, if not in saying that Severus built the Wall,
-at least in stating that this was the great boast of his reign.
-
-[Sidenote: OCCUPATIONS OF SEVERUS.]
-
-When, too, we may ask, did he build the Wall? not assuredly when he
-issued forth on the expedition that was to win him so much renown, and
-which occupied him the greater part of the time he was in Britain. He
-was then bent upon aggression, not defence. Neither is it probable that
-he would do it on his return. According to Spartian, he had at that time
-proved himself not only victorious, but the founder of eternal peace,
-and thus had removed all ground for apprehension in the direction of
-Caledonia. Or, on the other hand, according to the more accurate and
-trustworthy historians, Herodian and Dion Cassius, he was returning worn
-out with disease and the endless fatigues he had sustained; chagrined at
-the havoc which the islanders had made in his army, though they
-uniformly refused to hazard a general engagement; and broken-hearted at
-the misconduct and ingratitude of his sons, and so would, we may
-suppose, have been deficient in the spirit and the means to embark in so
-large a work. That he should have repaired some of the stations,
-particularly those upon the line of his march, when about to enter upon
-what he hoped to be the crowning enterprise of his life, and that he
-should have maintained garrisons in them to make good his communications
-with the south, is not only probable, but is rendered almost certain by
-the inscriptions which several of them have yielded; but that, in such
-circumstances, he should have planned and executed the whole line of the
-Wall, its castles and turrets, and several of the stations, is almost
-incredible.
-
-[Sidenote: POPULAR OPINION.]
-
-But it may be asked, if Hadrian formed the whole Barrier, how is it that
-the popular voice should ascribe the most important part of it not to
-him, but to Severus? That the Wall is generally called by the name of
-Severus, is at once admitted. So long ago as the reign of Elizabeth,
-Spencer wrote—
-
- Next there came Tyne, along whose stony bank
- That Roman monarch built a brazen wall,
- Which mote the feebled Britons strongly flank
- Against the Picts, that swarmed over all,
- Which yet thereof _Gualsever_ they do call.
-
-Popular testimony, apart from the authentic records of history, is of
-value for our present purpose only so far as it is the traditional
-statement of the knowledge of those who lived when the event took place.
-The nearer to its source that we trace a tradition, the clearer and more
-unequivocal it will become, if it have its origin in truth. The popular
-opinion that Severus built the Wall, will not stand this test. Whatever
-value may be attached to the testimony of Gildas, the first British
-historian, it is not denied that he records correctly the hear-say
-evidence of his day. He does not mention Severus, but tells us, that
-after the departure of the Romans, the Britons, distressed by the Picts
-and Scots, sought the assistance of their former conquerors, and at
-their suggestion, and with their assistance, raised first a wall of
-turf, and afterwards, when that was found insufficient, a wall of stone.
-The narrative of Gildas has been already given. (_p._ 29.)
-
-[Sidenote: BEDE’S TESTIMONY.]
-
-Bede refers to the opinion that Severus built the stone Wall, only to
-refute it; he says—
-
- Severus was drawn into Britain by the revolt of almost all the
- confederate tribes; and, after many great and dangerous battles, he
- thought fit to divide that part of the island which he had recovered
- from the other unconquered nations, not with a wall, as some imagine,
- but with a rampart. For a wall is made of stones, but a rampart, with
- which camps are fortified to repel the assaults of enemies, is made of
- sods, cut out of the earth, and raised above the ground all around
- like a wall, having in front of it the ditch whence the sods were
- taken, and strong stakes of wood fixed upon its top. Thus Severus drew
- a great ditch and strong rampart, fortified with several towers, from
- sea to sea; and was afterwards taken sick, and died at York.
-
-He then repeats Gildas’ account of the origin of the Wall, and
-adds—‘that it was not far from the trench of Severus.’
-
-These quotations are made simply to prove, that the testimony of
-tradition, at a period not long subsequent to the departure of the
-Romans, was by no means decisive; no stress ought, therefore, now to be
-laid upon it.
-
-[Sidenote: TRADITION IN ERROR.]
-
-The popular report, which ascribes the building of the Wall to Severus,
-is the less worthy of credit, inasmuch as it imputes to him also the
-building of the northern Barrier, which we know was the work of Lollius
-Urbicus, in the reign of Antonine. Pinkerton says, 'As to the Welsh name
-of _Gual Sever_, which it is said they give to the Wall in the North of
-England, it is also given to that between the Firths of Scotland.[134] A
-small grave-stone, which was discovered in Falkirk church-yard, in the
-immediate neighbourhood of the Antonine Wall, about the year 1815,
-confirms the testimony of Pinkerton upon this point. The inscription, a
-cast of which I have seen, records the burial there, in the reign of
-Fergus II., of ‘a knight, Rob. Graham, who first threw down the Wall of
-Severus’ (ILLE EVERSVS VALL. SEVER). If popular opinion has erred with
-reference to the one Wall, it may have erred with respect to the other
-also.[135]
-
-But we ought not to expect minute accuracy in a tradition transmitted
-through many generations. It is enough that the general impress of the
-truth remains. It is nothing surprising, that, after the lapse even of a
-century or two, the name of Severus should have been connected with
-every military stronghold in the northern section of the island. As
-having inflicted the last and heaviest blow upon it, his hated memory
-would be the longest retained.
-
-In the absence of any decisive testimony from the historians of Rome,
-respecting the emperor who upreared the Murus, we may next examine the
-inscribed stones which have been found upon it.
-
-[Sidenote: COMMEMORATIVE SLABS.]
-
-In some instances, inscriptions attached to Roman buildings give their
-history with great particularity. This is the case with the Antonine
-Wall in Scotland. Slabs inserted at intervals, record the name of the
-reigning emperor, of his legate, of the troops engaged upon the work,
-and also the number of paces executed by each detachment. Unfortunately
-these commemorative slabs are of rare occurrence in the Lower Barrier,
-and the information given by such as do exist, is very scanty. This will
-appear the more surprising, if we bear in mind that the English Wall is
-not only twice as long as the other, but is built of stone throughout;
-the Scotch Wall is chiefly formed of earth. On the theory, that Hadrian
-reared all the members of the Barrier, the paucity of inscriptions
-admits of easy explanation. The custom of raising these memorials did
-not commence until his day, and at the time of the erection of the Wall
-was probably in its infancy; the practice was in vogue during the reigns
-of several of his successors, and was not discontinued until after the
-time of Caracalla. If, on the other hand, Severus built the Wall, it is
-a most unaccountable thing that his soldiers have left no record of the
-fact upon the line of the Wall itself, and but very scanty traces of his
-name even in the out-stations. This is [Sidenote: PAUCITY OF
-INSCRIPTIONS TO SEVERUS.] the more remarkable, when we remember that the
-Wall was built by the same legions as were employed upon the Vallum of
-the Upper Barrier. The Antonine Wall was constructed by the twentieth
-legion and by vexillations of the second, and sixth. On the mural line
-of the Lower Barrier we frequently meet with stones inscribed with the
-names and insignia of the second, and sixth, legion, and occasionally
-with those of the twentieth. If the English Wall was built in A.D. 210,
-as is generally stated, how is it that the troops disregarded a custom
-so natural and so laudable as that which was practised so extensively by
-their predecessors, in A.D. 140? Extensive repairs were made by
-Caracalla at HABITANCUM, BREMENIUM, and some other stations; of these we
-have distinct records in the inscriptions which remain. How is it, if
-the mind and hand of his father gave being to the magnificent fence of
-the English isthmus, that not one of the many stones which he upreared
-records the fact? Mural slabs and contemporary historians are alike
-silent upon the subject, and, probably, for the simple reason that
-Severus did not build it.
-
-It will serve the purposes of truth to cite all the instances in which
-the name of either emperor has been found upon the line; wood-cuts of
-all to which I have had access, have been already presented to the
-reader.
-
-[Sidenote: INSCRIPTIONS NAMING HADRIAN.]
-
-The name of Hadrian occurs in many instances. At Jarrow a stone was
-found, and is figured in Brand, which was inscribed OMNIVM FIL.
-HADRIANI. In the foundations of the castellum at Milking-gap a stone was
-discovered (p. 234), bearing in bold letters the name of the emperor,
-and of his legate Aulus Platorius Nepos. At Chesterholm a fragment of a
-precisely similar inscription was found (p. 241). In the neighbourhood
-of Bradley, two fragments were discovered, which, when placed together,
-give us an accurate copy of the same inscription (p. 232). In the ruins
-of the castellum near Cawfields, was a portion of another, with a
-precisely similar inscription (p. 251); and near the eastern gateway of
-ÆSICA a large tablet was dug up, bearing the name of the same emperor
-(p. 256). In an outhouse, which probably occupies the site of a
-castellum, at Chapel-house, in Cumberland, a stone was found, which
-mentions Hadrian and the twentieth legion (p. 274). Horsley describes a
-slab which he saw at Bewcastle, bearing the following inscription—
-
- _IMP._ CAES. TRA_IANO_
- _HADRIANO AVG.
- L_EG. II AVG. ET XX V.
- LICINIO PR_ISCO_
- LEG. AVG. PR. PR.
-
-In Gough’s Camden, a stone, inscribed to Hadrian by the second legion,
-is stated to have been found at Middleby; and at Moresby we have the
-fine slab now at Whitehaven castle (p. 367).
-
-It will perhaps be said that these inscriptions prove nothing beyond the
-universally admitted facts, that many of the stations existed in
-Hadrian’s day, and that the Vallum was raised by him. The reply to this
-is, that several of them have been found at a distance from any station,
-and on the line of the Wall itself, and that too, in positions where it
-is farther removed than usual from the Vallum. The occurrence of three
-or four of them in mile-castles, seems to prove that they owed their
-position there to no accidental circumstance, and no one will deny that
-these mile-towers were contemporaneous with the Wall.
-
-[Sidenote: INSCRIPTIONS TO SEVERUS.]
-
-The force of these remarks will more clearly appear after ascertaining
-what inscriptions bear the name of Severus. If we turn to the inquiry
-with the impression that he built the more important member of the
-Barrier, we might expect to find the evidences of the activity which
-prevailed in his day more abundant than in the time of Hadrian. Such,
-however, is not the fact. The one at Hexham (p. 340) was the only
-inscription to Severus which was known to Gordon and Horsley. Well might
-Gordon, who maintained the Septimian theory, denominate it—‘a very
-precious jewel of antiquity.’ Hexham is nearly four miles south of the
-Wall. To this must be added the altar discovered at Old Carlisle (p.
-360), which is about ten miles distant from the Wall; and another in a
-dilapidated state, found at the same place; and the gateway slab found
-at HABITANCUM (p. 315), one of the _castra exploratorum_ nearly ten
-miles in advance of the Wall, recording the restoration of part of the
-fortifications there. Besides these, I know not of any inscriptions to
-Severus. I purposely omit all reference to an altar, said to have been
-discovered at Netherby, bearing the inscription SEPT. SEVERO IMP. QVI
-MVRVM HVNC CONDIDIT, because, both Gordon and Horsley pronounce it to be
-spurious.
-
-[Sidenote: THE GELT QUARRY.]
-
-Much importance is attached by those who advocate the claims of Severus
-to the inscription on the face of the ancient quarry, on the river Gelt.
-Here, it may be said, is the very spot from which the stones of the Wall
-were taken, and the precise date is fixed—the consulship of Aper and
-Maximus. That the quarry was used by the Romans at this period, is not a
-matter of dispute, but it is very questionable whether much of the stone
-from it was used in the building of the Wall, because, suitable
-materials could be procured nearer at hand. The year in which Aper and
-Maximus were consuls was A.D. 207; the year in which, according to the
-received reckoning, Severus came to Britain, was that in which Geta and
-Caracalla were consuls, A.D. 208.[136] It is not likely that Severus
-would order the stones to be quarried before his arrival in Britain.
-But, allowing that the chronology of Severus’ reign is to be received
-with some latitude, and granting that he had landed in Britain in A.D.
-207, some time would necessarily elapse in making inquiries into the
-state of the country, and no inconsiderable period would be occupied in
-making surveys, even after the construction of the Wall had been
-determined on. The quarry has probably been wrought for some ordinary
-purpose, perhaps for the erection of some buildings in the station near
-Brampton, at the period in question.
-
-[Sidenote: HADRIAN’S QUARRIES.]
-
-Evidence is not wanting to prove, on the other hand, that quarries near
-the line of the Roman Wall were wrought in the time of Hadrian. In an
-old quarry near the top of Borcum, or Barcombe (a hill near the village
-of Thorngrafton, and opposite to the station of BORCOVICUS), a large
-number of Roman coins was found. They are described and figured in the
-last Part of this work. Since none of the pieces of this hoard were
-later than the time of Hadrian, and the coins of his reign and Trajan’s
-were peculiarly fresh, it is agreed that the treasure must have been
-deposited in Hadrian’s time. The quarry on Haltwhistle-fell (p. 81), it
-will also be remembered, bore the name of the sixth legion, which, if
-the reasoning in the next paragraph be admitted, will appear to have
-been inscribed before the arrival of Severus in Britain.
-
-It has already been observed that numerous stones along the line bear,
-without any addition, the names of the second legion, the sixth, and the
-twentieth. There can be no doubt that these legions and their
-vexillations executed the principal part of the Work. The main bodies of
-these forces, however, had their head-quarters, at the time of the
-arrival of Severus, in districts of the country southward of the Barrier
-line. The second legion, after the building of the Antonine Wall,
-appears to have gone to Carleon, in South Wales, the Isca of the Romans.
-The sixth legion removed to York before A.D. 190, where it continued as
-long as the Romans remained in the island. Horsley, speaking of the
-inscriptions on the Wall which mention this legion,[Sidenote: MOVEMENTS
-OF THE LEGIONS.] says, ’some of them, from the characters and other
-circumstances, may be supposed as ancient as Hadrian’s reign.' The
-twentieth legion had taken up its abode at Chester, the DEVA of the
-Romans, as early as the year 154. Though it is probable that Septimius
-Severus may have taken detachments of these legions with him in his
-Scottish campaign, it is not likely that he would withdraw the main
-bodies from forts of such importance; and those which did accompany him
-would find the discharge of their military duties sufficiently onerous,
-without engaging in a work so vast as the building of the Wall.
-
-But, after all, the works themselves furnish us with the best proof that
-the whole is one design, and the production of one period. It is
-difficult to conceive how any person can traverse the line of the
-Barrier without coming to the conclusion, that all the works—Vallum,
-Wall and fosse, turrets, castles, stations, and outposts—are but so many
-parts of one great design, essential to each other, and unitedly
-contributing to the security of a dangerous frontier. The Murus and the
-Vallum throughout their whole course pursue tracks harmonizing with each
-other; the Murus, however, selecting those acclivities from which an
-attack from the north can be best repulsed—the Vallum, those from which
-aggression from the south can be repelled. Stukeley was unable to resist
-the evidence of his senses. Speaking of the works in the neighbourhood
-of Carvoran, he says—
-
-[Sidenote: STUKELEY’S TESTIMONY.]
-
- I suppose this Wall built by Severus is generally set upon the same
- track as Hadrian’s Wall or Vallum of earth was; for, no doubt, they
- there chose the most proper ground; but there is a Vallum and ditch
- all the way accompanying the Wall, and on the south side of it; and
- likewise studiously choosing the southern declivity of the rising
- ground. I observe, too, the Vallum (Wall?) is always to the north. It
- is surprising that people should fancy this to be Hadrian’s Vallum; it
- might possibly be Hadrian’s work, but may be called the line of
- contravallation; for, in my judgment, the true intent, both of
- Hadrian’s Vallum and Severus’s Wall, was, in effect, to make a camp
- extending across the kingdom; consequently, was fortified both ways,
- north and south: at present, the Wall was the north side of it; that
- called Hadrian’s work, the south side of it; hence we may well suppose
- all the ground of this long camp, comprehended between the Wall and
- the southern rampire, was the property of the soldiers that guarded
- the Wall.—_Iter Boreale_, p. 59.
-
-Speaking of the works westward of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, he says—
-
- The Vallum runs parallel to the Wall, but upon the declining ground
- south, as the other north; this confirms me in my suspicion, that both
- works were made at the same time, and by the same persons, and with
- intent that this should be a counter-guard to the other, the whole
- included space being military ground.—_Iter Boreale_, 66.
-
-The reader needs scarcely to be reminded of the striking illustration of
-these remarks which is furnished by the appearance of the works a little
-to the west of Carrhill, and by the fact, that for nearly ten miles in
-the middle of their course, the Vallum is commanded by the heights on
-which the Wall stands.
-
-[Sidenote: RELATIVE POSITION OF THE WORKS.]
-
-Whenever the distance between the Wall and Vallum varies, it is
-generally with some obvious design in view. Thus, as Hodgson, who
-powerfully supports the view here taken, remarks—
-
- The Vallum and Murus always contract the width of the interval between
- them as they approach a river, apparently for no other purpose than a
- close protection of the military way, and the defence of one bridge;
- for if they had passed the brooks and rivers on their line at any
- considerable distance from each other, two bridges would have been
- necessary, and two sets of guards to defend them: and here it is not
- unimportant to remark, that the Murus always takes that brow of the
- ridge it traverses, which is precipitous to the north, and never
- deserts its straightest or most defensible course to find a convenient
- situation for a bridge, while the Vallum almost invariably bends
- inwards as it approaches a bridge, and diverges outwards as it leaves
- it.—_Hist. Nor._ II. iii.
-
-Horsley’s plan of the Barrier between CILURNUM and MAGNA, which is
-copied on Plate II., will afford several examples of the truth of these
-remarks.
-
-The position of the Vallum and Murus, in relation to the stations,
-furnishes additional evidence. The Murus usually forms the northern wall
-of the station, or comes up to the northern cheek of its eastern and
-western gates, while the Vallum protects its southern rampart, or comes
-up to the lower side of its doorways. The two lines give complete
-protection to the camps, and to the roads leading to and from them. On
-the supposition that the Vallum is an independent fortification, and
-that it was constructed nearly a century before the Wall was thought of,
-we must concede that its plan was such as to give the stations the least
-possible support, to leave them, in short, in a great measure exposed to
-the enemy. The manner in which the two walls combine in giving strength
-to a station, is very well shewn in Warburton’s plan of the works in the
-vicinity of CILURNUM (Plate II). It is scarcely possible to deny the
-justice of the remark, which he appends to the title—‘A Plan of CILURNUM
-... with part of the Plan of Severus’ Wall and Hadrian’s Vallum, shewing
-how they are connected at the stations, and by their mutual relation to
-one another, _must have been one entire united defence or
-fortification_.'
-
-[Sidenote: SEVERUS REPAIRED THE WALL.]
-
-It is not improbable that Severus may have repaired some portions of the
-Wall, and perhaps added some few subsidiary defences. Richard of
-Cirencester gives us correct information upon several points connected
-with Roman Britain, which we do not learn from other authors; it is not
-unlikely that his view of the subject of our present study may be the
-correct one. He says—
-
- About this time the emperor Hadrian, visiting this island, erected a
- Wall, justly wonderful, and left Julius Severus his deputy in
- Britain.... Virius Lupus did not perform many splendid actions, for
- his glory was intercepted by the unconquerable Severus, who, having
- rapidly put the enemy to flight, _repaired the Wall of Hadrian_, now
- become ruinous, and restored it to its former perfection. Had he
- lived, he intended to extirpate the very name of the barbarians.
-
-The supposition that Hadrian built the Wall is consistent with the
-accounts which historians give us of his attachment to architectural
-undertakings. One writer, of great research, says of him—
-
-[Sidenote: HADRIAN A GREAT BUILDER.]
-
- No prince, perhaps, ever raised so many public and private edifices as
- Hadrian. In every city of note, throughout the empire, some erection
- perpetuated his memory: bridges, aqueducts, temples, and palaces, rose
- on every hand. Many cities, likewise, were either wholly built or
- repaired by him. _Building seems, indeed, to have been a main feature
- in his system of government._ He was the first who appointed that each
- cohort should have its quota of masons, architects, and all kinds of
- workmen needed for the erection and adornment of public
- edifices.—_Hist. Rome_, _Tract Soc. London 277_.
-
-It is perhaps needless to pursue the subject further. More might easily
-be said; but I was unwilling, on a point of so much importance, to say
-less. The reader will not fail to perceive what an impressive view the
-works of the mural barrier, considered as one vast scheme, and not as a
-series of after-thoughts, give of the mighty conceptions and energies of
-imperial Rome.
-
-In taking leave of those renowned men, Hadrian and Severus, it may be
-allowable to advert to the testimony which, before departing this life,
-they are said to have given as to the vanity of all earthly things.
-Hadrian, who used to say, that an emperor should be like the sun,
-visiting all the regions of the earth, found himself then, in darkness.
-His knowledge of the Eleusinian mysteries gave him no peace; he
-addressed his soul in these words:—
-
- Animula, vagula, blandula
- Hospes, comesque corporis
- Quæ nunc abibis in loca
- Pallidula, rigida, nudula?
- Nec ut soles dabis joca.
-
-These lines are thus happily imitated by Prior—
-
- Poor, little, pretty, fluttering thing,
- Must we no longer live together?
- And dost thou prune thy trembling wing,
- To take thy flight thou know’st not whither?
- Thy humorous vein, thy pleasing folly,
- Lies all neglected, all forgot;
- And, pensive, wavering, melancholy,
- Thou dread’st and hop’st thou know’st not what.
-
-[Sidenote: DEATH OF HADRIAN AND SEVERUS.]
-
-Severus’ restless pursuit after happiness was equally vain. His dying
-words are said to have been, '_Omnia fui et nihil expedit_'—I have tried
-everything, and found nothing of any avail. What a contrast to the
-language addressed to him by the Ethiopian soldier—'Thou hast been
-everything—conquered everything: now, conqueror, be a god!'
-
-[Illustration: Slab, Leg. II. and Leg. XX.]
-
------
-
-Footnote 134:
-
- Pinkerton’s Inquiry into the History of Scotland, i. 55.
-
-Footnote 135:
-
- I do not, however, find that the Antonine Wall is now known in the
- district by the name of Severus’ Wall.
-
-Footnote 136:
-
- See chronological tables of Roman History in Smith’s Dictionary of
- Biography and Mythology.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-[Illustration]
-
-~The Roman Barrier of the Lower Isthmus.~
-
-
-
-
- PART VI.
- MISCELLANEOUS ANTIQUITIES FOUND ON THE LINE OF THE WALL.
-
-
-Most apposite is the remark of Dr. Johnson, that ‘Whatever withdraws us
-from the power of our senses; whatever makes the past, the distant, or
-the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of
-thinking beings.’ Few things are so well calculated to produce this
-effect, as the altars and lettered tablets that have been left on our
-soil by the Romans. When we but glance at them, who is not moved at the
-reflection, that they were chiselled by hands which for so many
-centuries have mouldered nerveless in the dust!
-
- Still on its march, unnoticed and unfelt
- Moves on our being. We do live and breathe,
- And we are gone! The spoiler heeds us not;
- We have our spring-time and our rottenness;
- And as we fall, another race succeeds
- To perish likewise.
- _Kirke White._
-
-On proceeding to decipher the antique records, our emotions are more
-varied and more intense. The old Roman seems to arise from the tomb, and
-to reveal his modes of thought and principles of action. His breast
-heaves; his heart is laid bare. In lines which his own fingers have
-carved, the gods before whom he trembled are declared. Looking on the
-very altar at which he knelt, we almost seem to see ‘the mean man bowing
-down, and the great man humbling himself.’
-
-[Sidenote: LETTERED STONES.]
-
-The region of the Wall has yielded more inscribed stones of the Roman
-period than any other portion of the kingdom. Many of them have already
-been presented to the reader; a few others will here be described. The
-lettered stones of the mural line may be divided into three
-classes—altars, funereal slabs, and centurial stones.
-
- ALTARS.
-
-[Sidenote: PARTS OF AN ALTAR.]
-
-The offering of such sacrifices as were supposed to be acceptable to
-their deities, formed an essential part of the religion of the Greeks
-and Romans. Very numerous are the altars which have been discovered on
-the line of the Wall. Many of them are small, some not larger than the
-palm of the hand, rough in the workmanship, and without any inscription;
-others are of large size, [Illustration: alt=Altar, Deo Vetri] and of
-ornate character. The usual form of them is shewn in the annexed cut.
-The inscription is on the face of the altar; the base and upper portion
-project a little beyond the sides. A small cavity on the top called the
-_focus_, or hearth, received the offering. The sides of the altar were
-frequently adorned with carvings representing the victims, the
-implements used in sacrifice, and insignia of the god. On the altar[137]
-before us, we have represented the _præfericulum_, or pitcher, which
-contained the wine for the offering; the _patera_, a round, shallow
-dish, generally with a handle, which was used in throwing a small
-portion of the wine upon the altar; the _securis_, or axe, with which
-the animal was slain; and the _culter_, or knife, used in flaying or
-dividing it. In the Chesterholm altar, figured _p._ 240, the sacrificial
-ox is represented; and on the sides of the altar to Jupiter, which is
-shewn on page 290, the thunder-bolt of the god, and the wheel of
-Nemesis— the emblem of swift vengeance—are given. The small size of the
-_focus_ proves that the offerings presented to the deities occupied a
-very small bulk. When an animal was slain, a portion of the entrails was
-often all that fell to the lot of the god.
-
- Idibus in magni castus Jovis æde sacerdos
- Semimaris flammis viscera libat ovis.[138]
- _Ovid’s Fasti_, i. 587.
-
-[Sidenote: NATURE OF THE OFFERINGS.]
-
-Frequently the offering consisted of a little barley-meal, some fruit,
-some frankincense, or chips of fragrant wood, with wine or milk.
-Occasions of sacrifice were often times of merry-making. The slain
-victim and the dedicated wine formed the ready materials of a feast.
-Ovid sarcastically represents an old woman performing the rites due to
-the goddess of Silence; upon her offering (three grains of incense) she
-allows a few drops of wine to fall, and assisted by her companions,
-though needing little help, she drinks up the remainder, departing from
-her devotions tipsy, and anything but taciturn.
-
- Ecce anus ... annosa,
- Et digitis tria thura tribus sub limine ponit
- Vina quoque instillat. Vini, quodcumque relictum est,
- Aut ipsa, aut comites, plus tamen ipsa, bibit.
- ... ebriaque exit anus.
- _Fasti_, ii. 571.
-
-[Sidenote: ALTAR TO JUPITER.]
-
-As might be expected, many altars are dedicated to Jupiter, the king and
-father, as he was styled, of gods and men. The wood-cut represents a
-very fine one, which was found in the station at Chesterholm, and is now
-preserved under the piazza of the House.
-
-[Illustration: Large Altar to Jupiter]
-
- I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- CETERISQUE
- DIIS IMMORT[ALIBVS]
- ET GEN[IO] PRAETOR[II]
- Q[VINTVS] PETRONIVS
- Q[VINTI] F[ILIVS] FAB[IA] VRBICVS
- PRAEF[ECTVS] COH[ORTIS] IIII
- GALLORUM
- EX ITALIA
- DOMO BRIXIA
- VOTVM SOLVIT
- PRO SE
- AC SVIS
-
- To Jupiter, best _and_ greatest,
- And to the rest of the
- Immortal gods,
- And the genius of the pretorium,
- Quintus Petronius
- Son of Quintus, of the Fabian family, _surnamed_ Urbicus.
- Prefect of the Fourth cohort
- Of the Gauls,
- From Italy, _and_
- Of a house of Brixia,
- Performed a vow
- For himself
- And family.
-
-Two lines have been purposely erased, perhaps in consequence of some
-error committed by the sculptor. The town of Brixia, the modern Brescia,
-is situated on a feeder of the Po. Petronius, it would appear, still
-remembered, and doubtless with affection, his former home in sunny
-Italy. Storks adorn both sides of the altar; the object of their
-introduction is rather doubtful. In the Risingham slab, now at
-Cambridge, to which reference has already been made (_p._ 332), a cock
-is associated with the figure of Mars, and a stork with that of Victory.
-Can the stork have been the emblem of victory, as the cock was of the
-god of war? The powerful wing and stately motions of this bird render it
-a fitting emblem of the goddess whose favours Petronius must often have
-sought. The inscription is distinct, and strikingly displays the
-polytheism of the Romans. Petronius associates with Jupiter, not only
-all the immortal gods, but the genius of the pretorium also.
-
-[Sidenote: POLYTHEISM OF ROME.]
-
-Not only were the superior deities and invisible genii blended in one
-invocation, but mortal men were not unfrequently associated with the
-greatest of the gods on the same altar. This is the case in one already
-described (_p._ 63). Quintus Verius, on an altar found at Housesteads,
-calls upon Jupiter, the best and greatest, together with ‘the deities of
-Augustus.’ The emperor himself is probably intended by this phrase, not
-the gods whom the emperor worshipped. The use of the noun in the plural
-number, _numina_, is not opposed to this view. Horsley remarks that
-_numina_ is frequently, in classical writers, applied to a particular
-deity; thus we have _numina Dianæ_ in Horace, and _numina Ph[oe]bi_ in
-Virgil. The emperors, we know, were frequently worshipped as gods. The
-Mantuan bard, addressing Augustus, has no doubt of his divinity, though
-he knows not what region to assign to his especial care;
-
- ... urbesne invisere, Cæsar,
- Terrarumque velis curam;...
- An deus immensi venias maris, ac tua nautæ
- Numina sola colant....
- _Georg._ I. 25.
-
-[Illustration: Altar, Genio Loci, etc.]
-
-[Sidenote: MARYPORT ALTAR.]
-
-An altar, which is not less remarkable for the ornate character of its
-decorations, than for the striking display which it affords of the
-polytheism of the Romans, was found in the camp at Maryport, and is now
-in the possession of the earl of Lonsdale, at Whitehaven Castle. An
-accurate representation is given of it in the preceding engraving.
-
- GENIO LOCI
- FORTVNÆ REDVCI
- ROMÆ AETERNÆ
- ET FATO BONO
- G[AIVS] CORNELIVS
- PEREGRINVS
- TRIB[VNVS] COHOR[TIS]
- EX PROVINCIA
- MAVR[ITANIÆ] CÆSA[RIENSIS]
- DOMOS E . . .
- . . . . .
-
- To the Genius of the place,
- To returning Fortune,
- To eternal Rome,
- And to propitious fate,
- Gaius Cornelius
- Peregrinus,
- Tribune of a cohort,
- From the province of
- Mauritania Cæsariensis,
- . . . . . . . . . .
- . . . . . . . .
-
-The lower lines of the inscription of this altar are much injured; they
-probably refer to the restoration of some buildings. The upper portion
-is sufficiently plain. Peregrinus addresses first the deity of the place
-over which his arms had triumphed; lest the local god should not smile
-benignantly, he resorts to Fortune, who had conducted him safely to the
-land of his adoption; if this deity should fail him, he thinks to find a
-refuge in the genius of the eternal city; but driven from this resource,
-there is nothing for it, but to trust to fate or chance.
-
-On the back of this altar (which as it is at present placed at
-Whitehaven Castle, cannot be seen), are inscribed the words, VOLANTI
-VIVAS. This was probably the expression of the good wishes of some party
-for his friend, inscribed for greater efficacy on the sacred stone; and
-may be translated, Volantius, long may you live!
-
-[Sidenote: ALTARS TO MARS.]
-
-Mars is occasionally addressed, though not so frequently as we might
-expect in a chain of mural garrisons. Two small altars dedicated to him
-have already been introduced. On several altars, chiefly found in
-Cumberland, he is addressed by the name [Illustration: Altar, Deo
-Cocidio] of Cocidius. One which was found at Bank’s-head, and is now
-preserved at Lanercost Priory, is here introduced. An altar found at
-Lancaster bearing the inscription, DEO SANCTO MARTI COCIDIO, is the
-authority for supposing that Cocidius was a name of Mars. The altar
-before us has been dedicated by the soldiers of the twentieth legion,
-surnamed the Valiant and Victorious; the boar, the badge of the legion,
-is at the bottom of the altar. It appears also that Mars was sometimes
-styled Belatucadrus, the expression DEO MARTI BELATUCADRO being found
-upon some altars; the altars to Belatucadrus are, however, confined to
-Cumberland. One of them is here [Illustration: Altar, Deo Belatucadro]
-given. It was found at Walton Castlesteads, where it still remains. The
-letters are rudely carved, and the last two lines not very intelligible.
-The name Belatucadrus or Belatucader is derived from the words Baal and
-Cadir; and probably means—The invincible or omnipotent Baal. The fact
-that Baal, the great idol of the east, found votaries in Britain shews
-how easy it is to propagate error.
-
-It was the practice of the Romans to adopt the deities of the countries
-which they subdued, and they may be supposed to have sought to
-amalgamate with their own god of war, the corresponding divinity
-worshipped in that part of Britain where these altars were reared.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Minerva]
-
-[Sidenote: MINERVA.]
-
-The worship of Minerva was not neglected by the soldiers of the Wall.
-The wood-cut exhibits an altar to the virgin goddess, which was found in
-the station at Rochester; it is now at Alnwick Castle. Several others
-exist. Science is required in the arts of war as well as peace. The
-victory which mere daring achieved, was by the Greeks and Romans
-ascribed to the intervention of Mars; that which was the result of
-skilful strategy to the influence of Minerva. This altar was consecrated
-by Julius Carantus.
-
-[Sidenote: FORTUNA.]
-
-Fortune was one of the favourite deities of Rome. The great confidence
-which the Romans placed in her is expressed in the story related by
-Plutarch, that on entering Rome she put off her wings and shoes, and
-threw away her globe, as she intended to take up her permanent abode
-among the Romans. Several altars addressed to Fortune have been found on
-the line of the Wall. One of the most remarkable is shewn in the annexed
-cut. It was found in a building in the south-east corner of the station
-at Risingham, and is now in the Museum of
-
-Antiquities, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The great peculiarity of it is, that
-the projecting base of the altar is provided with a focus, and that on
-the projection the inscription is repeated. It reads—
-
- FORTVNAE
- SACRVM
- VALERIVS
- LONGINVS
- TRIB[VNVS]
-
- To Fortune
- Sacred
- Valerius
- Longinus
- Tribune.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Fortune]
-
-The altar, when in its original position, was raised by means of two
-courses of masonry considerably above the level of the ground. The
-object of the second focus is a matter of conjecture. According to the
-grammarians, _altare_ (_alta ara_, high altar) was dedicated only to the
-gods above, whilst the _ara_ was both lower, and employed in sacrificing
-to the gods below as well as those above. Can Fortune have been viewed
-in the double capacity of a superior and inferior divinity, and can the
-tribune, Valerius Longinus, have sought to secure the favour of the
-powerful deity both in this life and the one to come!
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Mithras]
-
-[Sidenote: MITHRAS.]
-
-Several of the altars found on the line of the Wall are dedicated to the
-god Mithras. _Mitra_, it appears, is one of the names for the sun in
-Sanscrit; and that
-
-Mithras was, by the Romans, identified with the sun, is clearly
-proved by many of the inscriptions on the altars of that deity. One,
-found in the Mithraic cave at Housesteads, and which is now at
-Newcastle-upon-Tyne, is figured on the former page. The inscription
-upon it may be read thus;—
-
- DEO
- SOLI INVI
- CTO MYTRÆ
- SAECVLARI
- LITORIVS
- PACATIANVS
- B[ENE]F[ICIARIVS] COS. PRO
- SE ET SVIS V[OTVM] S[OLVIT]
- L[IBENS] M[ERITO]
-
- To the god
- The Sun the in-
- vincible Mithras
- The Lord of ages
- Litorius
- Pacatianus
- A consular beneficiary; for
- himself and family discharges a vow
- Willingly and deservedly.
-
-[Sidenote: WORSHIP OF THE SUN.]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Another small and roughly-cut altar procured from the same place, and
-also now at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, has a figure of the sun on its capital:
-Hodgson reads the inscription in this manner—Hieronymus, performing a
-vow, freely and duly dedicates this to the sun.
-
-When we contemplate the powerful and beneficial influence of the sun, we
-cannot be surprised that the worship of this luminary, especially in the
-east, constituted the first form of idolatry—
-
- To solemnize this day, the glorious sun
- Stays in his course, and plays the alchemist;
- Turning, with splendour of his precious eye,
- The meagre cloddy earth to glittering gold.
-
-[Sidenote: WORSHIP OF MITHRAS.]
-
-The various ceremonies which were observed in the worship of Mithras,
-are supposed to have been emblematic of the different influences
-exercised by the sun upon vegetable and animal life. The notices which
-we have of the meaning of these emblems are, however, a mass of
-mysticism and absurdity. The god is commonly represented as a youth
-wearing the Phrygian cap and attire, and [Illustration: Attendant of
-Mithras] kneeling on a bull thrown on the ground, the throat of which he
-is cutting. He is usually accompanied by two attendants, the one bearing
-an uplifted torch, representing the sun in the vernal equinox, ascending
-to the zenith of his power, the other, an extinguished torch, resting on
-the ground, emblematic of the orb of day, when hastening to the winter
-solstice. The wood-cut here introduced exhibits one of these figures
-(now at Newcastle-upon-Tyne), which was found in the cave at
-Housesteads.
-
-The Mithraic worship was introduced into the western world, from Persia,
-about the time of Julius Cæsar, and speedily spread over all parts of
-the empire. It appears to have outlived other forms of idolatry in
-Europe. Its favourers seem to have abandoned polytheism; on the line of
-the Wall at least, the name of Mithras is not combined with that of any
-other deity. This circumstance, together with the laborious, though
-vain, researches of its philosophical supporters, recommended it to
-those who rejected the pure and simple truths of Christianity.
-
-[Sidenote: MITHRAIC CAVE.]
-
-Another of the Housesteads altars to Mithras is here figured. It is
-inscribed—
-
-[Illustration]
-
- D[EO] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
- INVICTO MYT
- RÆ SAECVLARI
- PVBL[IVS] PROCVLI
- NYS C[ENTVRIO] PRO SE
- ET PROCVLO FIL[IO]
- SVO V. S. L. M.
-
-———
-
- D.D. (_dominis_) N.N. (_nostris_) GALLO ET
- VOLVSINO CO[N]S[VLIBVS]
-
-CC
-
- To the god best and greatest
- The invincible Mith-
- ras, lord of ages,
- Publius Proculinus,
- Centurion, for himself
- And Proculus his son,
- his vow freely and deservedly pays.
- ———
- Our lords Gallus and
- Volusinus being consuls.
-
-The temples of Mithras generally consisted of a cave, or a small
-building from which the light was excluded. A cave was adopted,
-‘because,’ says Porphyry, ‘a cave is the image and symbol of the world,’
-and it was dark, ‘because the essence of the virtues is obscure.’ All
-who sought the favour of this god were subjected to a long course of
-painful initiatory discipline. Nonnius, a Greek poet, says—
-
-[Sidenote: MITHRAIC RITES.]
-
- No one can be admitted into his mysteries, unless he has previously
- undergone all the punishments, the number of which they say is eighty,
- some of them of the gentler sort, others more severe. The milder are
- undergone first, then the severer; and after the whole course is gone
- through, they are initiated. Fire and water are the sorts of
- punishment which they endure. These torments are said to be inflicted
- to produce examples of piety and greatness of mind under sufferings.
- After they have been many days in water, they cast themselves into
- fire; then live in desert places, and there subdue the cravings of
- hunger; and thus, as we have said, the aspirant goes through the whole
- course of eighty torments; which if he survive, then he is initiated
- into the mysteries of Mithras.
-
-Human sacrifices seem to have been used in the worship of Mithras.
-Photius, in his life of Athanasius, asserts that there was a Greek
-temple in Alexandria, in which, in ancient times, the Greeks performed
-sacred rites to Mithras, sacrificing men, women, and children, and
-auguring from their entrails. Pliny tells us that in the year of Rome
-657, a decree of the senate was passed, forbidding the immolation of
-man; for till that time monstrous solemnities were openly
-celebrated.[139] The emperor Heliogabalus, a native of Syria, styled
-himself high priest of Mithras. His assassination is partly ascribed to
-the horror with which the people listened to the tales of magic rites in
-which he was concerned, and of human victims secretly slaughtered.[140]
-
-[Sidenote: MITHRAIC CAVE.]
-
-The cave at Housesteads in which the Mithraic sculptures were found, was
-situated in the valley to the south of the station. It was discovered in
-1822 by the tenant of the farm in which it stood, who fixed upon the
-spot as one likely to yield him the material which he required for
-building a stone fence hard by. The building was square; its sides faced
-the cardinal points. It had been originally, as was usually
-[Illustration: Zodiacal Tablet, Borcovicus] the case in a Mithraic
-temple, permeated by a small stream. Hodgson, who saw it as soon as it
-was laid bare, says, ‘The cave itself seems to have been a low
-contemptible hovel, dug out of a hill side, lined with dry walls, and
-covered with earth or straw.’ Though the building has been entirely
-removed, a small hollow is left which marks the spot where it stood. All
-the sculptured stones have happily been placed in the custody of the
-Society of Antiquaries, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Amongst them, besides the
-altars already given, and some which it has not been thought necessary
-here to engrave, is the curious stone shewn in the wood-cut. It
-represents Mithras, surrounded by the zodiac. The signs of cancer and
-libra are omitted. The zodiacal tablet assumes an egg-like form,
-probably to symbolize the principle of generation. The god holds a sword
-in his right hand, and a peculiar spiral object in his left. It more
-nearly resembles an ear of corn than the flame of a torch. We are
-reminded [Illustration: Pine-apple Ornament, etc., Cilurnum] by it of
-the ornaments resembling pine apples, which are frequently found on the
-line of the Wall; and were probably connected with the worship of this
-deity. The example here figured, as well as the small altar which
-accompanies it, was found at Housesteads; both are now preserved at
-Chesters.
-
-[Illustration: Presumed Mithraic Sculpture, Cilurnum]
-
-[Sidenote: MITHRAIC SYMBOLS.]
-
-The accompanying wood-cut represents a subject which is supposed to be
-connected with the mysteries of Mithraic worship. The slab was found at
-CILURNUM, and is now at Alnwick Castle. Though not satisfied with
-Hodgson’s description of it, I am unable to supply a better. He says;—
-
- The sculpture is in two compartments: that on the left seems to
- contain a lion, statant, raising the head of a naked and dead man:
- that on the right, a figure of Mithras seated on a bench, and having a
- flag in one hand, a wand in the other, and on its head the Persian
- tiara.(?) I would hazard a conjecture that the whole relates to the
- Mithraic rites called Leontica; for the lion, in the zodiac of the
- ancient heathens, stood for Mithras, or the sun, which threw its
- greatest heat upon the earth during its course through the
- constellation Leo.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Apollo, Cawfield mile-castle]
-
-[Sidenote: ALTAR TO APOLLO.]
-
-Numerous as are the altars on the line of the Wall to the Persian god,
-only one has been found dedicated to Apollo, the Grecian representative
-of the luminary of day. It was discovered in the summer of 1850, lying
-near a spring in the vicinity of the Cawfield mile-castle, about midway
-between the Wall and the Vallum, and is now preserved in the collection
-of antiquities at Chesters. The following reading must be regarded as,
-in a great measure, conjectural; no doubt, however, can exist as to the
-deity to which it is dedicated.
-
- DEO APOL
- INI ET O[MNIBVS] N[VMINIBV]S
- SINIS[TRA] EXPL[ORATORVM]
- CVI PR[AEEST] SVLP[ICIVS]
- _VOTVM_ S[OLVIT]
- L.L. (_libentissime_) M[ERITO]
-
- To the God Apol-
- lo and the other deities,
- The left _wing_ of guides
- Commanded by Sulpicius,
- In discharge of a vow
- Most willingly and deservedly.
-
-It is believed that this is the only inscription to Apollo yet
-discovered in England, though one at least has been found in Scotland.
-The Roman soldiers in Britain were probably not much given to the study
-of the _belles lettres_, which were under the peculiar patronage of the
-god of the silver bow.
-
-The next is an inscription of unusual importance.
-
- Ultima Cumaei venit jam carminis aetas;
- Magnus ab integro saeclorum nascitur ordo.
- Jam redit et VIRGO.
-
-[Illustration: Inscription to the Syrian Goddess, Magna]
-
-[Sidenote: INSCRIPTION TO THE SYRIAN GODDESS.]
-
-A slab was found at Carvoran in 1816, and is now in the castle of
-Newcastle-upon-Tyne, which contains an exposition in iambic verse of the
-creed of a Roman tribune respecting the mother of the gods. Faber
-remarks, that Ceres, Cybele, Venus, the Syrian goddess Derceto, the
-Ph[oe]nician Astarte, and the Egyptian Isis, were all one and the same
-deity. The inscription, which is an unusually long one, is here arranged
-in lines of the length which the scansion requires—
-
- IMMINET LEONI VIRGO CÆLESTI SITU
- SPICIFERA, JUSTI INVENTRIX, URBIUM CONDITRIX,
- EX QUIS MUNERIBUS NOSSE CONTIGIT DEOS
- ERGO EADEM MATER DIVUM, PAX, VIRTUS, CERES,
- DEA SYRIA; LANCE VITAM ET JURA PENSITANS.
- IN CÆLO VISUM SYRIA SIDUS EDIDIT,
- LYBIÆ COLENDUM INDE CUNCTI DIDICIMUS,
- ITA INTELLEXIT, NUMINE INDUCTUS TUO
- MARCUS CÆCILIUS DONATINUS, MILITANS
- TRIBUNUS IN PRÆFECTO DONO PRINCIPIS.
-
- The Virgin in her celestial seat overhangs the Lion,
- Producer of corn, Inventress of right, Foundress of cities,
- By which functions it has been our good fortune to know the deities;
- Therefore the same _Virgin is_ the Mother of the gods, _is_ Peace, _is_
- Virtue, _is_ Ceres,
- _Is_ the Syrian Goddess poising life and laws in a balance,
- The constellation beheld in the sky hath Syria sent forth
- To Lybia to be worshipped, thence have all of us learnt it,
- Thus hath understood, overspread by thy protecting influence,
- Marcus Cæcilius Donatinus, a warfaring
- Tribune in _the office of_ prefect, by the bounty of the emperor.
-
-Cæcilius probably prepared this exposition of his faith on being
-admitted into the mysteries of Ceres. However unintelligible, we cannot
-but admire the humility and teachable disposition of the tribune.
-
- Their judge was conscience, and her rule their law,
- That rule, pursued with reverence, and with awe,
- Led them, however faltering, faint and slow,
- From what they knew, to what they wished to know.
- But let not him that shares a brighter day,
- Traduce the splendour of a noontide ray,
- Prefer the twilight of a darker time,
- And deem his base stupidity no crime!
-
-[Sidenote: MINOR DEITIES.]
-
-A glance at some of the minor, and local deities must conclude our
-review of the gods of the Barrier.
-
-The deities of Greece and Rome were without number. Every fountain and
-river, every hill and forest, had its tutelary deity; every product of
-earth, air, or sea, its guardian; every place its genius; every
-household its _penates_. The antiquities found on the Wall furnish us
-with numerous illustrations of this fact. The engraving represents an
-altar which was found at Birdoswald, and is now at Lanercost.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to Silvanus, Amboglanna]
-
- DEO SANCTO
- SILVANO VE
- NATORES
- BANNE S.S. (_sacraverunt_)
-
- To the holy god
- Silvanus,
- The hunters of
- Banna
- Have consecrated _this_.
-
-[Sidenote: THE NYMPHS.]
-
-Silvanus seems to have presided over woods and boundaries. Several
-altars have been erected to him along the line. Forests must at that
-time have covered a great portion of the country, and given shelter to
-beasts of chase worthy of the martial prowess of the occupants of the
-Isthmus.
-
-A host of female forms, denominated nymphs, haunted mountain, valley,
-and stream.
-
-When in the Iliad, the father of the gods calls together his council,
-
- Nor of the Floods was any absent thence
- Oceanus except, or of the NYMPHS
- Who haunt the pleasant groves, or dwell beside
- Stream-feeding fountains, or in meadows green.
-
-An interesting altar, dedicated to these deities, was found by the side
-of a spring overlooking the station of HABITANCUM. It is now in the
-garden of Spencer Trevelyan, esq., of Long Witton.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to the Nymphs, Habitancum]
-
- SOMNIO PRAE
- MONITVS
- MILES HANC
- PONERE IVS
- SIT
- ARAM QVAE
- FABIO NVP
- TA EST NYM
- PHIS VENE
- RANDIS.
-
-The inscription is roughly cut, but quite legible, no contraction is
-used in it, and no ligature is admitted, even in the case of diphthongs.
-The construction of the sentence is peculiar, and admits of two
-renderings. Taking _nupta est_ to signify dedicated, a peculiar use of
-the word, suggested perhaps by its etymological relationship with the
-one which it governs, _nymphis_, the inscription will read—
-
- A soldier, warned in a dream, directed the erection of this altar,
- which is dedicated by Fabius to the nymphs to whom worship is due.
-
-The other method of rendering it is the following,—
-
- A soldier, warned in a dream, directed her (_eam_ supplied) who is
- married to Fabius to erect this altar to the nymphs to whom worship is
- due.
-
-[Sidenote: THE GODS OF THE MOUNTAINS.]
-
-According to either interpretation the altar was erected to the sylphs
-of the fountain, in consequence of a dream. The lively imagination of
-the Roman has invested the humble spring where it originally stood with
-such an air of romance, as to render it a matter of regret that the
-altar does not still grace the spot.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to the Gods of the Mountains, Vindobala]
-
-The adjoining wood-cut represents a small altar found at Rutchester,
-VINDOBALA, and now in the Castle of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The inscription
-reads—To the gods of the mountains, Julius Firminus, the decurion,[141]
-erected this. Epona, to whom the next [Illustration: Altar to Epona,
-Magna] altar is dedicated, was the protectress of horses; images of her
-were to be seen in most stables. Juvenal’s dandy jockey swore by her
-alone. This altar was found at Carvoran, and is now in the High School
-of Edinburgh. The accompanying example [Illustration: Altar, sculptured
-with a Toad, Cilurnum] is not the only instance of a toad being
-represented on an altar. This was found at Chesters, CILURNUM, where it
-is still preserved. Did the Romans stoop so low as to worship reptiles?
-If so, the superstitious practice has probably been derived from the
-east. Dr. Kitto remarks, ‘The importance attached to the frog, in some
-parts of Egypt, is shewn by its being embalmed, and honoured with
-sepulture in the tombs of Thebes. In the Egyptian mythology, the frog
-was an emblem of man in embryo.’
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Sidenote: VITERES.]
-
-Many altars have been found on the line dedicated to gods unknown to
-Rome’s Pantheon, and supposed to have a purely local celebrity. The
-engraving exhibits one of a numerous class.[142] It was discovered near
-Thirlwall Castle about 1757, in the course of the formation of the
-military road, and shortly after presented to the Society of
-Antiquaries. Vitres, or Viteres, or Veteres, is a god whose name is
-confined to the north of Britain. Hodgson remarks, that Vithris was a
-name of Odin, as we find in the death-song of Lodbroc—'I will approach
-the courts of Vithris, with the faltering voice of fear.' If Viteres and
-the Scandinavian Odin be identical, we are thus furnished with evidence
-of the early settlement of the Teutonic tribes in England. The altar
-given on page 395 is [Illustration: Altar to Viteres, Condercum] also
-dedicated to Viteres. The occurrence of the name of this god in a plural
-form, as in the annexed example, which was found at CONDERCUM, and is
-now at Somerset-house, has suggested the idea, that Viteres is not the
-proper name of a god, but that _diis veteribus_—the ancient gods—is the
-inscription intended. Most probably, however, Viteres was the name of a
-local deity.
-
-[Illustration: Altar to the Dea Hamia, Thirlwall-castle]
-
-[Sidenote: LOCAL DEITIES.]
-
-The next altar is also dedicated to a local goddess; at least it is not
-easy to give any more satisfactory account of the _Dea Hamia_. The altar
-was found near Thirlwall castle, and belongs to the Society of
-Antiquaries, London.
-
-[Sidenote: DEÆ MATRES.]
-
-We now proceed to an important group of altars and sculptures, which,
-if not strictly local, are yet chiefly found in those regions of
-Europe which were swept by the Teutonic wave in its progress westward.
-They have been met with in England, the Netherlands, along the banks
-of the Rhine and other parts of Germany, and in France. These deities,
-when sculptured, are represented as triple, generally seated, clothed
-in long flowing drapery, and bearing in their laps baskets of fruit. A
-slab, of which a drawing has already been given (p. 140), is inscribed
-MATRIBUS CAMPESTRIBUS, to the mothers of the plains; it probably
-refers to the deities in question. An altar found in the same
-[Illustration: Altar to the Three Lamiæ, Condercum] station,
-CONDERCUM, and now in the vaults of Somerset-house, is inscribed
-LAMIIS TRIBUS, to the three Lamiæ. The wood-cut accurately represents
-it. In Rich’s companion to the Latin Dictionary, the Lamiæ are
-represented as ‘Vampires; believed to be malignant spirits of the
-female sex, who wandered about at night in the guise of old hags,
-sucking blood, and devouring the flesh of human beings. This
-superstition,’ continues the writer, ‘originated in Egypt.’ In
-corroboration of the Egyptian origin of this class of demons, it may
-be stated that small images, arranged in triplets, are of common
-occurrence among [Illustration: Egyptian Idols] [Illustration:
-Egyptian Idols] the antiquities of Egypt. The cuts here introduced
-exhibit two groups of this class of idols, selected from a large
-number of similar sets, in the possession of his Grace the duke of
-Northumberland, at Alnwick Castle. Their resemblance to some of those
-found upon the line of the Wall is striking. The foreign origin of
-these mother-deities is further proved by their being denominated in
-inscriptions MATRES TRAMARINÆ, Transmarine Mothers. The altar here
-figured is an example of this kind; it was found at HABITANCUM, and is
-now preserved [Illustration: Altar to the Transmarine Mothers,
-Habitancum] at Alnwick Castle. The inscription records, that Julius
-Victor dedicated it in discharge of a vow freely and deservedly to the
-Transmarine Mothers. This Victor, it appears by another inscription,
-was a tribune of the first cohort of the Vangiones, a Germanic tribe.
-On none of these altars are the deities distinguished by a proper
-name. This would seem to be in conformity with the superstitious
-feelings of the middle ages in England and Germany, where it was
-thought unlucky to call the fairies and elves by any other
-denominations than the respectful titles of ‘the ladies,’ or ‘the good
-people.’ Several sculptures representing, as is supposed, the
-mother-goddesses, have been found on the line of the Wall. One group,
-found at Housesteads, and now in the castle of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, is
-drawn (fig. 4) on Plate XI. When seen by Horsley, this slab had in the
-upper part of it two fishes and a sea-goat in relief. Two other sets
-got at the same place, are figured in the Britannia Romana. In one of
-them, the central or chief figure is represented as bound by the legs.
-The ancients, in order to prevent a deity, whose favour they coveted,
-taking his departure against their will, not unfrequently used
-[Illustration: Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Netherby] the
-unwarrantable liberty of securing him by chains. At Netherby, there
-are three sculptures belonging to this class. One of them, shewn in
-the wood-cut, is in a perfect condition. The figures are standing, an
-ample covering envelopes their heads, and a short tunic scantily
-[Illustration: Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Netherby] invests their
-bodies. Another group, here engraved, has met with the usual fate of
-Roman sculptures in the north of England—they have suffered
-decapitation; the ample folds of the garments by which they are
-[Illustration: Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at Netherby] clothed have
-happily not been disturbed, and the central or chief personage holds a
-basket of fruit. The third sculpture is of larger size and has
-suffered more extensive injury; the left hand figure of the group only
-remains; she is seated, and holds fruit in her lap. The Byzantine
-character of the drapery will be noticed. At Nether-hall another
-fragment of a [Illustration: Sculpture to the Deæ Matres, at
-Nether-hall] group, procured from the neighbouring station, is
-preserved—the left hand figure has been broken off; the two remaining
-ladies wear the same cowl-like head-dress as the Netherby mothers;
-shewn on the former page. Mr. Thomas Wright, speaking of these mythic
-personages, says—
-
- The ancient mythology of the Germanic race was not entirely eradicated
- by Christianity; and it is interesting to trace it as reflected in the
- popular superstitions of the present day. The reverence for the three
- goddesses who presided over the woods and fields, pre-arranged the
- fates of individuals, and dispensed the blessings of Providence to
- mankind, may thus be traced down to a comparatively late period, both
- in Germany and in England. They are sometimes regarded as the three
- Fates—the _Norni_ of the north, the wælcyrian of the Anglo-Saxons (the
- weird sisters, transformed in Shakespeare into three witches),
- disposing of the fates of individuals, and dealing out death and life.
- But they are also found distributing rewards and punishments, giving
- wealth and prosperity, and conferring fruitfulness. They are the three
- fairies who are often introduced in the fairy legends of a later
- period, with these same characteristics.[143]
-
-[Sidenote: INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY.]
-
-After so long a companionship with the heathen relics found on the line
-of the Wall, the reader will naturally ask—Have no Christian remains
-been found?—Does no memorial record the name of JEHOVAH, the living God?
-A negative reply must be given to the inquiry. There is, however,
-abundant evidence to prove, that Christianity was extensively diffused
-through the world long before the Romans departed from Britain. Tacitus
-tells us, that in his day there was a great multitude of Christians at
-Rome itself. The younger Pliny, in the second century, addressing the
-emperor, complains that the heathen temples were almost deserted. Justin
-Martyr says, there is not a nation in which prayers and thanksgivings
-are not offered up in the name of the crucified Jesus; and Tertullian,
-the most ancient of the Latin fathers, appealing to the magistrates,
-says, ‘We are but of yesterday, yet we have filled every place, your
-cities, garrisons, and free towns, your camps, senate, and forum; we
-have left nothing empty but your temples.’ Britain early received the
-glad tidings. ‘The concurrent voice of antiquity,’ says Mr. Thackeray,
-‘although it has not designated the individuals who were the immediate
-instruments of Providence in enlightening Britain, assigns the year 60
-as about the period when the Christian religion was introduced into this
-island.’ At this time there were not fewer than 48,000 Roman soldiers,
-including their auxiliaries, in this country, some of whom must have
-been well acquainted with the name of Christ. In the army there would be
-some centurions like Cornelius, some deputies like Sergius Paulus, who,
-not content with knowing the truth themselves, endeavoured to
-communicate it to others, and yet these Christian soldiers have, along
-the line of the Wall, left no memorial of their faith. The God whom they
-served required not the erection of an altar of stone, or an offering of
-frankincense. Their ‘inscription’ was, a holy life, ‘seen and read of
-all men.’ Notwithstanding the example and teaching of such men, it is a
-lamentable fact, that heathenism continued to rear its head in Britain
-until near the close of the period of Roman occupation, as several of
-the altars found on the line of the Wall clearly testify.
-
-[Sidenote: CHRISTIAN SYMBOL.]
-
-Brand conceived that an altar discovered at Rutchester, and now in the
-museum at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, exhibited the Christian symbol. It may
-well be doubted whether the rude carving to which he refers, is any
-thing more than a partially obliterated letter. There are other letters,
-evidently of modern fabrication, carved on this altar.
-
-_Fas est ab hoste doceri._ An obvious remark clothed in Horsley’s own
-language, and extracted from a work that is now scarce, will form a
-suitable conclusion to this section. Speaking of vows in sickness he
-says—
-
- There is one thing in these pagan votive altars that may be a shame
- and reproach to a great many who call themselves Christians; and that
- is, the willingness and cheerfulness with which they paid, or
- pretended to pay, the vows they had made. Such as have any
- acquaintance with those things, know how commonly these letters V. S.
- L. M. or V. S. L. L. M., are added at the end of inscriptions that are
- on such altars, whereby they signified how _willingly_ and
- _cheerfully_, as well as _deservedly_, they performed the vows they
- had made, viz., _votum solvit libens merito_, or _votum solvit libens,
- lubens_ (or _lætus_) _merito_. Much more _deservedly_, and therefore
- more _willingly_ and _cheerfully_, should the vows made to the Most
- High, to the true and living God, be paid or performed to him, and
- particularly the vows made in trouble.[144]
-
- SEPULCHRAL INSCRIPTIONS.
-
-[Sidenote: MONUMENTAL SLABS.]
-
-Extreme importance was attached by both Greeks and Romans to the due
-discharge of the rites of sepulture. Until earth had been three times
-sprinkled over the body of the departed, his spirit was conceived to be
-denied admission into the Elysian fields. The practice of burning the
-dead became common at Rome about the latter period of the republic. The
-inconvenience and expense of the process would necessarily restrict it
-to persons of some wealth. After the pile was consumed, the ashes of the
-deceased were gathered up by the nearest relative, and deposited in an
-urn. There are numerous instances in Britain of the Romans having buried
-their dead entire. Skeletons have been found in London, which Mr.
-Charles Roach Smith considers must have been deposited in the higher
-empire. As Christianity gained ground, the custom of burning the dead
-fell into disuse; the early Christians were unwilling to do needless
-violence to the dust of a fellow disciple, and resolved to discontinue
-the superstitious ceremonies which usually attended cremation.
-
-Whether the body was previously reduced to ashes, or deposited in the
-ground unburnt, it was usual to raise a mound over the spot.
-
- Ergo instauramus Polydoro funus: et ingens
- Aggeritur tumulo tellus.
- _Æn._ III. 62.
-
-[Sidenote: FUNERAL URN.]
-
-Sometimes, instead of a mound of earth, a monument of stone covered the
-place where the sepulchral urn was deposited. This was the case at
-BREMENIUM, as already described (_p._ 326). With the ashes or body of
-the deceased, it was usual to deposit a small brass coin to answer the
-demands of Charon. 'This custom of burying valuables and coins with the
-dead is by no means extinct; the humbler Irish will pawn their clothes
-to provide fresh pieces of money to throw into the coffins of their
-departed friends.'[145] The Romans, as formerly observed, did not
-usually deposit either the unburnt bodies of the dead, or their ashes,
-within the walls of towns or stations. A curious exception to this
-practice has lately been noticed. In the month of October last (1850), a
-funereal urn was discovered within the station of BORCOVICUS, near the
-north-west corner. It was sunk in the earth, and was covered by an
-oblong flat stone, without inscription. The vase, which was of
-earthen-ware, and altogether devoid of ornament, was globular in its
-form, and of large dimensions. It measured two feet in diameter, and two
-feet in height. It contained ashes, amongst which was found a solitary
-silver coin of Hadrian. This urn is preserved at Chesters. On the slab
-covering the remains of the deceased person, the name and age were not
-unfrequently inscribed. The carving, which sometimes includes an effigy
-of the individual, is often very rude; the back of the stone is, for the
-most part, undressed. The inscriptions on these ‘frail memorials’ which
-in the mural region have come down to our times, and ‘implore the
-passing tribute of a sigh,’ almost uniformly commence [Sidenote: DII
-MANES.] with the letters D. M.—_diis manibus_. The shades or departed
-spirits are, probably, themselves intended in this address, though much
-confusion exists upon the subject in the works of the ancient writers.
-In the following lines, Ovid represents the manes as being objects of
-worship:—
-
- Est honor et tumulis: animas placate paternas;
- Parvaque in extinctas munera ferte pyras.
- Parva petunt MANES: pietas pro divite grata est
- Munere: non avidos Styx habet ima Deos.
- Tegula projectis satis est velata coronis;
- Et sparsæ fruges, parcaque mica salis.
-
-[Illustration: Sepulchral Altar to the Manes of Fabia Honorata, Cilurnum]
-
-Some of the ceremonies here referred to by the Latin poet, are still in
-use, as all know who have visited the cemetery of Père la Chaise, in
-Paris. On the sepulchral slab, death is rarely mentioned; but the number
-of years, months, and days, that the deceased lived, is recorded with
-great particularity. The altar, of which an engraving is here
-introduced, was found at CILURNUM, and is now in the Library of the Dean
-and Chapter at Durham. It bears the following inscription—
-
- D[IIS] M[ANIBVS] S[ACRVM]
- FABIÆ HONOR
- ATÆ FABIVS HON
- ORATIVS TRIBVN[VS]
- COH[ORTIS] I. VANGION[VM]
- ET AVRELIA EGLIC
- IANE FECER
- VNT FILIÆ DVLCISSIMÆ
-
- Sacred to the divine Manes of
- Fabia Honorata.
- Fabius Hon-
- oratius the tribune of the
- First cohort of Vangiones,[146]
- And Aurelia Eglic-
- iane erected _this_
- To their most sweet daughter.
-
-[Sidenote: MORTALITY OF THE GARRISON.]
-
-‘Tender souls!’ exclaims Hodgson, ‘your last act of piety to a beloved
-daughter has not been forgotten: the altar that bears the memorial of
-your affection still exists, though it has been banished from the
-custody of the ashes which were committed to its care.’ Though painful,
-it is yet pleasant to notice the heavings of natural affection in the
-martial bosom of a Roman soldier. This stone differs from most of the
-sepulchral monuments, in being an altar instead of a slab, and in not
-mentioning the age of the deceased. It has been remarked that the larger
-proportion of the tomb-stones of the mural region record the deaths of
-young persons. The climate of the north of England, particularly of the
-exposed district of the Barrier, must have told with fearful severity
-upon the constitutions of those who had been reared under the sunny
-skies of Italy and Spain.
-
-[Illustration: Sepulchral Slab to the Manes of Aurelia Faia, Magna]
-
-[Sidenote: SEPULCHRAL SLAB.]
-
-The large slab which is here figured, was found at Carvoran, and is now
-in the castle of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. It reads—
-
- D[IIS] M[ANIBVS]
- AVRE[LIAE] FAIAE
- D[OMO] SALONAS
- AVRE[LIVS] MARCVS
- Ↄ (_centurio_) OBSEQ[IO] CON-
- IVG[IS] SANCTIS-
- SIMAE QVAE VI-
- XIT ANNIS XXXIII.
- SINE VLLA MACVLA
-
- To the divine Manes of
- Aurelia Faia,
- Of a house of Salona,
- Aurelius Marcus
- A centurion, out of affection
- For his most holy wife
- Who lived
- Thirty three years,
- Without any stain, _erected this_.
-
-[Sidenote: MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS.]
-
-It is not unnatural that a soldier while bemoaning the loss of a beloved
-wife in a land of strangers, should so dwell upon her virtues as to
-conceive that hers was a faultless character. Gruter gives an
-inscription which nearly resembles this. It was erected by Marcus
-Aurelius Paullus—
-
- CONIVGI INCOMPARABILI
- CVM QVA VIXIT ANNIS XXVII
- SINE VLLA QVERELA
-
- To his incomparable wife, with whom he had lived twenty-seven years
- without having had a single squabble.
-
-‘This couple,’ says Mr. Akerman, ‘must for ever throw into the shade all
-the candidates for the Dunmow flitch.’
-
-[Illustration: Sepulchral Slab to the Memory of Cornelius Victor]
-
-At Chesterholm is a slab which, though suffering from exposure to the
-weather, is still distinct:—
-
- DIIS MANIBVS
- CORN[ELIVS] VICTOR S. C. (_Sibi Constitvit_)
- MIL[ES] ANN[OS] XXVI CIV[IS]
- PANN[ONIAE] FIL[IVS] SATVRNI-
- NI P.P VIX[IT] ANN[OS] LV. D[IES] XI
- CONIVX PROCVRAVI
-
- To the divine Manes; Cornelius Victor ordered this to be erected over
- himself. He was a soldier twenty-six years, a citizen of Pannonia, and
- the very dutiful (P.P. _pientissime_) son of Saturninus. He lived
- fifty-five years and eleven days. I, his wife, saw his order executed.
-
-The tomb-stone to a young physician has already been given, page 227.
-
- CENTURIAL STONES.
-
-[Sidenote: CENTURIAL STONES.]
-
-The only other class of inscribed stones to which reference will now be
-made, is that of centurial stones. The centurions seem to have been in
-the habit of placing a common stone, inscribed with the name of their
-_century_—company or troop, in that section of the Wall which they had
-built. The letters are usually very rudely cut; sometimes they are
-enclosed in a border, as in the annexed example, which, probably found
-in the vicinity of CILURNUM, is now at Alnwick Castle.
-
-[Illustration: Centurial Stone, Coh. V. Cæcilii Proculi, Cilurnum]
-
- COH[ORS] V
- > (_centuria_) CAECILI[I]
- PROCVLI
-
- The fifth cohort.
- The century of Cæcilius
- Proculus.
-
-More frequently, however, the stone is entirely unadorned, as in this
-example, which, along with [Illustration: Centurial Stone, Cilurnum] the
-former, was removed from Walwick Chesters to Alnwick Castle. The letter
-C, reversed thus Ↄ, or more frequently an angular mark resembling the
-letter V, laid upon its side thus >, is the sign usually adopted for
-_centuria_, century. Two centurial stones are shewn in the wood-cut
-introduced in page 190. The upper one, that of Valerius Maximus, was
-described, a century ago, by Horsley, who found it near
-Haltwhistle-burn. Afterwards it was built up in a gable of the Cawfield
-farm-house, against which a coal-shed was formed. Here, though sadly
-begrimed, it was protected from further injury, until rescued by the
-present owner of the farm, and safely deposited in the museum of
-antiquities at Chesters.
-
- COINS.
-
-[Sidenote: NUMISMATIC REMAINS.]
-
-Next in importance to the inscribed stones found on the line of the
-Wall, the student of history will reckon the coins which the spade and
-plough of the husbandman turn up in considerable numbers in the mural
-region. In a rude state of society the commercial transactions of the
-residents of a district are almost entirely confined to an interchange
-of the commodities produced by each. A body of soldiery, however, liable
-to be removed from place to place, and compelled to expend their
-energies in unproductive industry, are necessarily obliged to resort to
-the use of money. It is chiefly in the stations where the Roman legions
-lodged, or on the roads which they traversed, that the imperial coin is
-found. These metallic pieces, bearing the insignia of Rome, thus become
-exceedingly important in tracking the march of Roman armies. As works of
-art, the design and execution of many of them are truly admirable. The
-copper coins of Hadrian are especially worthy of study. The custom which
-prevailed during the best periods of the empire, of rendering the
-circulating medium of the market-place the means of commemorating the
-leading events of the day, gives them increased value. Were all the
-other records of Roman story destroyed, its most stirring incidents
-might be recovered by a careful examination of the coins which the
-cabinets of the antiquary contain.
-
-[Sidenote: COINS.]
-
-Ample use has already been made of this source of information in the
-first Part of this work. Why is it that Britain neglects this means of
-rousing the spirit of her people, of communicating information, and of
-securing an almost imperishable memorial of her mighty acts? Had she
-recorded upon her coinage the events of the last half-century, she would
-have transmitted to posterity the memory of a series of warlike
-achievements and peaceful triumphs unparalleled in extent and unequalled
-in glory. As it is, our metallic currency has little value beyond its
-commercial worth, and generation after generation is compelled to
-contemplate, with what complacency they may, the same lady sitting
-immoveably upon the same enduring rock, and the same mounted knight
-making his interminable attempt to slay the same deathless dragon. The
-immense number of the coins found upon the line of the Wall, and the
-extension of the series from the earliest periods down to the time of
-Honorius, prove incontestibly the length of time that the Romans
-maintained their hold of this isthmus. The accidental loss of pieces of
-money will not, alone, account for the large quantity which has been
-found. In times of danger the possessors of treasure seem to have been
-in the habit of concealing it in the earth; the secret of their having
-done so must often have perished with them. In excavating that portion
-of the station of CILURNUM which was opened in 1843, not fewer than
-seventy Roman coins were found. In 1833, near the west gateway of
-VINDOLANA, three hundred small brass coins, mostly of Constantius and
-Mangentius, were found, not in a heap or vessel, but dispersed among the
-soil. The Rev. John Walton, who, about a century ago was vicar of
-Corbridge, made a considerable collection of Roman coins, by purchasing
-such as were turned up in the neighbouring station of Corchester. The
-following circumstance is related concerning him. A party of Jews having
-established in the neighbourhood a prussian-blue manufactory, felt
-disposed to enter the market with the vicar. Mr. Walton, unwilling to
-compete with them by offering a larger price, had the fields where the
-coins were found, strewed with imitations of the genuine pieces. These,
-on being picked up, were freely bought by the Jews, who, soon finding
-the trade a losing one, abandoned it altogether.
-
-The station, notwithstanding such systematic gleaning, is not yet
-deprived of its treasures. Not long ago, a rustic eked out a livelihood
-by searching for its coins, and disposing of them to occasional
-customers. The other day a plough-boy being asked if he had found any
-lately, produced straight-way from his pocket not less than thirty, most
-of them, indeed, highly corroded.
-
-The coinage of Rome seems to have continued in circulation in the north
-of England for a very short time after the departure of the Roman forces
-from Britain. Saxon money is found in Northumberland of a date coeval
-with the arrival of that people, but is never mingled with the Roman
-coinage. The coins of the Romans, on the other hand, are never
-accompanied by those of their successors. Within about forty years after
-the departure of the Romans, the circulation of the imperial coinage
-seems to have ceased. This circumstance proves incontestibly that a
-mighty political revolution had taken place in the interval. The present
-appearance of the stations corroborates the idea. The walls have been
-forcibly thrown down, the statues and other objects within them
-purposely mutilated, and the whole inclosure rendered, as far as
-possible unfit for human habitation.
-
-[Sidenote: THORNGRAFTON COINS.]
-
-To attempt a description of even the principal coins that can still be
-ascertained to have been procured from the district of the Wall, would
-be to compose a treatise upon numismatics. It will perhaps be sufficient
-to lay before the reader a brief [Illustration: Vessel, in which the
-Thorngrafton Coins were found] account of the hoard which was discovered
-in 1837, in an ancient quarry near Thorngrafton. The coins, sixty-five
-in number, were contained in a small skiff-shaped receptacle with a
-circular handle. The vessel represented in the adjoining wood-cut is
-about six inches long; the lid has a hinge at one end, and fastens with
-a spring at the other. The coins are at present in the possession of the
-brother of the quarryman who discovered them, and he holds them with
-such tenacity, that my artist was refused permission to see even the
-case which contained them, though he had taken a journey of thirty miles
-for the purpose of drawing them. Mr. Fairless, of Hexham, was more
-fortunate, and obtained leave to take sealing-wax impressions of the
-coins, from which the wood-cuts have been prepared. I am indebted to Mr.
-Fairless for the description of the coins, which he took from the pieces
-themselves.
-
- GOLD.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._ TI. CLAVD. CAESAR. AVG. GERM. P.M. TRIB.POT. P.P.
-
-_Rev._ NERO CLAVD. CAES. DRVSVS. GERM. PRINC. IVVENT.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._ NERO CAESAR AVGVSTVS.
-
-_Rev._ SALVS.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-_Obv._ IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANVS AVG.
-
-_Rev._ A Victory holding a garland over the head of a Roman soldier, and
-in the exergue, COS. VIII.
-
- SILVER.
-
- 1. _Obv._ IMP. NERO CAESAR AVGVSTVS.
-
- _Rev._ SALVS. Device same as in gold above.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-2. _Obv._ IMP. SER. GALBA CAESAR AVG.
-
- _Rev._ DIVA AVGVSTA.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-3. _Obv._ IMP. SER. GALBA CAESAR AVG.
-
- _Rev._ S.P.Q.R. OB. C.S. (Within a wreath.)
-
- 4. _Obv._ SER. GALBA AVG. _Rev._ Same as last.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-5. _Obv._ OTHO CAESAR AVG.
-
- _Rev._ PONT. MAX.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-6. _Obv._ IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANVS AVG.
-
- _Rev._ IMP. XIX. A basket filled with corn or bread.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-7. _Obv._ CAES. VESP. AVG. P.M. COS. III.
-
- _Rev._ CONCORDIA AVGVSTI.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-8. 9. 10. _Obv._ IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANVS AVG.
-
- _Rev._ PON. MAX. TR.P. COS. VI.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-11. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. VESP. AVG. CENS.
-
- _Rev._ PONTIF. MAXIM.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-12. _Obv._ DIVV. AVGVSTVS VESPASIANVS.
-
- _Rev._ No inscription. A figure standing.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-13. _Obv._ IMP. VESP. AVG. P. M. COS. VIII.
-
- _Rev._ VES (figure) TA.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-14. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. VESPASIANVS AVG.
-
- _Rev._ COS. ITER.—(figure)—TR. POT.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-15. _Obv._ Same as last.
-
- _Rev._ COS.—(an eagle standing on cippus)—VII.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-16. _Obv._ Inscription same as last.
-
- _Rev._ Reversed goats’ heads, bearing a shield.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-17. _Obv._ Inscription same as last.
-
- _Rev._ COS. ITER. TR. POT.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-18. _Obv._ Inscription same as last.
-
- _Rev._ GENIVM—(figure)—P.R.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-19. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. DOMITIANVS AVG. P.M.
-
- _Rev._ TR. POT. II. COS. VIIII. DES. X. P.P.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-20. 21. _Obv._ Same as last.
-
- _Rev._ IMP. XXI. COS. XVI. CENS.P. P.P.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-22. 23. _Obv._ CAESAR AVG. DOMITIANVS.
-
- _Rev._ COS. IIII. Pegasus.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-24. _Obv._ CAES. DOMIT. AVG. GERM. P.M. T.R.P.
-
- _Rev._ IMP. XIIII. COS. XIII. CENS. P. P. P.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-25. _Rev._ IMP. XXII. COS. XVI. CENS.P. P. P.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-26. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. DOMITIANVS AVG. P. M
-
- _Rev._ TR. POT. II. COS. VIIII. DES. XII.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-27. _Obv._ CAES. AVG. DOMIT. COS. III.
-
- _Rev._ PRINCEPS IVVENTVT.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-28. _Obv._ IMP. NERVA. CAES. AVG. P.M. TR.P. COS. III. P.R.
-
- _Rev._ FORTVNA P.R.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-29. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. NERVA. TRAIAN. AVG. GERM.
-
- _Rev._ PONT. MAX. TR. POT. COS. II.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-30.31. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. NERVA TRAIAN. AVG.
-
-_Rev._ P.M. TR.P. COS. VI. P.P. S.P.Q.R.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-32. _Obv._ IMP. TRAIANO AVG. GER. DAC. P. M. TR.P.
-
- _Rev._ COS. V. P.P. S.P.Q.R. OPTIMO PRINC.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-33. 34. 35. _Rev._ COS. V. P.P. S.P.Q.R. OPTIMO PRINC.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-36. _Obv._ IMP. TRAIANO AVG. GER. DAC. P.M. TR.P. COS. V. P.P.
-
- _Rev._ S.P.Q.R. OPTIMO PRINCIPI.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-37. _Obv._ Same as last.
-
- _Rev._ S.P.Q.R. OPTIMO PRINCIPI.
-
- _Exergue._ FORT.RED.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-38. Same as before.
-
- _Exergue._ PAX.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-39. _Obv._ IMP. TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG. GER. DAC. P.M. TR.P.
-
-_Rev._ COS. VI. P.P. S.P.Q.R.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-40. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. NERVA TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG. GER. DAC.
-
- _Rev._ P.M. TR.P. COS. VI. P.P. S.P.Q.R.
-
- 41. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. NERVA TRAIAN. AVG. GERM.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-42. 43. _Obv._ IMP. CAES. NERVA TRAIAN. AVG. GERM.
-
- _Rev._ P.M. TR. P. COS. II. P.P.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-44. Same as 40. with _Exergue_. TRO—VIO.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-45. _Obv._ IMP. TRAIANO AVG. GER. DAC. P.M. TR.P.
-
- _Rev._ COS.V. P.P. S.P.Q.R. OPTIMO PRINC.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-46. The same as last.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-47. Same as last. Seated figure, the right hand extended, holding a
-Victory.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-48. _Obv._ IMP. CAESAR TRAIAN. HADRIANVS AVG.
-
- _Rev._ P.M. TR.P. COS. III.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-49. _Obv._ Same as last.
-
- _Exergue._ FEL. P.R. (doubtful.)
-
- _Rev._ P.M. TR.P. COS. III.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-50. _Obv._ IMP. CAESAR TRAIAN. HADRIANVS AVG.
-
- _Rev._ P.M.TR.P. COS. III.
-
- PIE—TAS, in the field.
-
- 51. _Obv._ Same as last.
-
- _Rev._ P.M.TR.P. COS. III.
-
-
- CONSULAR AND OTHERS.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-This coin symbolizes the peace concluded between the Roman general
-Scaurus and the Arabian monarch Aretas.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration]
-
- MINERALS AND METALS.
-
-In nearly all the stations of the line, the ashes of mineral fuel have
-been found; in some, a store of unconsumed coal has been met with,
-which, though intended to give warmth to the primeval occupants of the
-isthmus, has been burnt in the grates of the modern English. In several
-places the source whence the mineral was procured can be pointed out;
-but the most extensive workings that I have heard of, are in the
-neighbourhood of Grindon Lough, near Sewingshields. Not long ago, a
-shaft was sunk, with the view of procuring the coal which was supposed
-to be below the surface; the projector soon found, that though coal had
-been there, it was all removed. The ancient workings stretched beneath
-the bed of the lake.
-
-[Sidenote: MINING OPERATIONS.]
-
-In Allendale and Alston Moor, numerous masses of ancient scoriæ have
-been found, which must have resulted from the reduction of lead from its
-ore. In the station of Corchester, portions of lead pipe have been
-found; it is an inch and a half in diameter, and has been formed by
-bending round a flat strip of the metal, and soldering the joint.
-
-Iron has been produced in large quantities. In the neighbourhood of
-HABITANCUM masses of iron slag have been found. It is heavier than what
-proceeds from modern furnaces, in consequence, probably, of the
-imperfect reduction of the ore. In the neighbourhood of Lanchester, the
-process seems to have been carried on very extensively. On the division
-of the common, two large heaps were removed, the one containing about
-four hundred cart loads of dross, the other six hundred. It was used in
-the construction of some new roads which were then formed, a purpose for
-which it was admirably adapted. In the neighbourhood of one of these
-heaps of scoriæ, the iron tongs represented in Plate XVII. fig. 8, so
-much resembling those at present used by blacksmiths, were ploughed up.
-During the operation of bringing this common into cultivation, the
-method adopted by the Romans of producing [Sidenote: BLAST FURNACE.] the
-blast necessary to smelt the metal was made apparent. Two tunnels had
-been formed in the side of a hill; they were wide at one extremity, but
-tapered off to a narrow bore at the other, where they met in a point.
-The mouths of the channels opened towards the west, from which quarter a
-prevalent wind blows in this valley, and sometimes with great violence.
-The blast received by them would, when the wind was high, be poured with
-considerable force and effect upon the smelting furnaces at the
-extremity of the tunnels.
-
- METALLIC IMPLEMENTS.
-
-Notwithstanding the tendency of iron to oxidize, several weapons made of
-this material, and used by the Romans, have come down to our day. Their
-general character and form can be better learnt from an inspection of
-the drawings which depict them than by verbal description. On Plate X.
-are shewn two spear or javelin heads, and on Plate XVII. the iron points
-of some arrows.
-
-Vessels of cast-metal, fitted for domestic use, are occasionally met
-with. On Plate XVII. fig. 2, is a specimen of a pot or boiler, closely
-resembling those in modern use; it was found in cutting the Newcastle
-and Carlisle Railway, near Haydon Bridge.
-
-[Sidenote: METALLIC IMPLEMENTS.]
-
-Bronze vessels are occasionally found. The utensils depicted on Plate
-XVI. are of this metal. Fig. 1, is a pan, evidently intended for
-culinary purposes. The use of the other vessel, fig. 2, so nearly
-resembling a modern coffee-pot, is not so apparent, though several of
-this form have been found in the Roman stations in the north of England.
-Is it a decanter—a sort of wine flagon? Both of these vessels were found
-on the line of the Wall, but at what point I have been unable to learn.
-
-Near to Whitfield, were recently found three camp-kettles, of peculiar
-make, which are now in the Museum of Antiquities at Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
-They are formed of bronze, but of exceedingly thin metal; they have
-evidently seen much service, and are patched in several places. Owing to
-the thinness of the metal they would very readily feel the fire. In
-Italy, where during a great part of the year a fire is only lighted when
-indispensable, similar vessels are still in use. These three vessels
-vary in size, so as to allow of their being placed one within the other.
-The smallest of them is shewn on Plate XVII. fig. 3. The strainer, fig.
-1, also of bronze, and very finely and tastefully perforated, was found
-with them.
-
-The boss of a shield, having something of the appearance of the head of
-a snake, Plate VII. fig. 2, is also of bronze. It is preserved at
-Chesters.
-
-Fibulæ or clasps, for fastening the loose robes worn by the Romans, are,
-as may be supposed, of ordinary occurrence. The one represented, of the
-full size, Plate XIV. fig. 2, was found at Carvoran. It is of bronze,
-and is of a form of which there are many examples. The tongue is
-wanting, but the spiral spring to which it was attached, and the groove
-which caught it, are distinctly observed. The small pair of bronze
-shears or scissors, which are shewn of their full size, Plate XIV. fig.
-1, were also found at Carvoran.
-
- _PLATE XV._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- J. STOREY DEL ET LITH. PRINTED BY A. REID.
- Samian Ware, from Wallsend and Lanchester
-]
-
- _PLATE XVI_
-
-[Illustration:
-
- J STOREY DEL ET LITH PRINTED BY AND^w REID.
- Bronze Vessels
-]
-
- _PLATE XVII._
-
-[Illustration:
-
- J STOREY DEL ET LITH PRINTED BY AND^w REID.
- Iron Pot, Bronze Vessel, Tongs, etc.
-]
-
- _PLATE XVIII_
-
-[Illustration:
-
- J STOREY DEL ET LITH PRINTED BY AND^w REID.
- Soles of Sandals, etc.
-]
-
- EARTHENWARE AND MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES.
-
-[Sidenote: ROMAN POTTERY.]
-
-Few subjects possess more interest than the pottery of the Romans.
-Whether we regard the shape of the vessels, the beauty of their
-ornaments, or the excellence of the material of which they are composed,
-they are worthy of our admiration. Fortunately for the present writer,
-so much has recently been published upon the subject, as to justify him
-in dismissing it with a brief notice.
-
-Among the earthenware vessels found in the mural region are some of
-coarse structure, such as _amphoræ_, _mortaria_, pans for common
-domestic purposes, and some which have probably been intended for
-exposure to the fire. The amphoræ are large narrow-necked vessels,
-capable of containing several gallons, and formed of red clay. In
-general, they have been furnished with two handles, on one of which the
-maker’s name is not unfrequently stamped. They were used for holding
-wine. I am not aware of any having been found on the line of the Wall,
-in a state at all approaching to completeness.
-
-The mortars are strong shallow vessels, provided with a lip for the
-convenience of pouring. They are formed of clay, resembling fire-brick
-in colour. On their inner surface, are frequently imbedded angular
-fragments of quartz, chert, or iron scoriæ. By this contrivance, the
-bruising of parched corn or other articles of food would be more easily
-effected.
-
-Various vessels of common earthenware, such as would be required in
-every household for holding water, grain, and kindred substances, are
-discovered, occasionally nearly perfect. At Nether Hall some very fine
-ones are preserved, which were found in the neighbouring station; one is
-twelve inches in diameter, and nearly six deep. Another, of globular
-form, is ten inches in diameter, and nine in depth.
-
-Besides these, fragments of thick vessels are frequently met with, which
-are of a porous nature, and hence well adapted to withstand the sudden
-application of heat. In these, when placed upon the fire, we may readily
-conceive that food was baked or stewed.
-
-Other vessels, for the most part of smaller size, more elegant shape,
-and composed of finer materials, are of common occurrence. Some are
-nearly black, others grey or slate-coloured: these are quite plain and
-unembossed. A species of yellow earthen-ware is found, tinted with a
-brown pigment, by the partial removal of which, a sort of pattern is
-given to it. All these are of British manufacture. Many of the potteries
-in which they were fabricated, have been clearly ascertained. The
-slate-coloured and grey kinds owe their peculiar hue to the action of
-what has been called, the smother kiln. During the process of baking the
-vessels, the vent of the furnace has been closed, so as to fill the kiln
-with smoke. The unconsumed carbon not only communicated its own hue to
-the objects exposed to it, but prevented the iron, which usually forms
-the colouring matter of clay, from being converted into the peroxide,
-which is of a brick-red colour.[147]
-
-[Sidenote: SAMIAN WARE.]
-
-The finest species of earthenware found in Roman camps, is that called
-Samian. It is of a bright coral-red colour. It can at once be detected
-by its glaze, which has not yet, in modern times, been successfully
-imitated. Some vessels are quite plain, but others are very tastefully
-embossed. Plates IX. and XV. furnish specimens of the more ornamental
-kind. The large fragment, engraved Plate XV. fig. 1, was found in
-sinking the shaft of the famous Wallsend pit. No potteries for the
-manufacture of this species of ware, have been found in Britain; and as
-the maker’s marks, and the patterns of the embossed varieties correspond
-with those found on the continent, it is conceived to be of foreign
-origin. Gaul and Spain have been pointed out as the countries from which
-the specimens exhumed in Britain were probably procured. The vast
-quantity of fragments of Samian ware mingled with the rubbish of some of
-the stations is truly remarkable; and not less worthy of observation is
-the fact, that not only has the clay of which the broken vessels are
-composed, undergone no deterioration by being buried for centuries in
-the damp earth, but even the glaze is, to all appearance, uninjured.
-That even the plainer kinds of Samian ware have been accounted valuable
-by their owners, is evident from the circumstance, that marks and names,
-by which they might be identified, have in numerous instances been
-scratched upon them. In Plate VII. figs. 9 and 11, are two examples of
-this kind, found at CILURNUM, and still preserved there. In some cases
-where a vessel has been fractured, it has been joined by clasps of lead.
-Fig. 1, Plate VII., is an example of this, also found at CILURNUM. The
-process of boring the holes to receive the lead must have been one of
-some labour, and would not have been undertaken unless the vessel had
-been accounted valuable.
-
-An imitation of the Samian ware seems to have been made in Britain
-during the continuance of the Roman period. It is not equal to the
-original in colour, texture, or design. Fig. 2, Plate IX. differs in
-appearance from true Samian—it may be an imitation.
-
-The lamp shewn on Plate XIV. fig. 4, is of red earthenware, covered with
-a black pigment; it proves the vast amount of skill and taste which the
-Romans lavished even upon articles of minor importance.
-
-[Sidenote: MINOR ANTIQUITIES.]
-
-Mill-stones are among the most frequent of the discoveries made in our
-Roman stations. Some, found at CILURNUM, are shewn in Plate XIII. fig.
-4. They closely resemble the querns which were used in Scotland and the
-rural districts of Northumberland, within a recent period. Many of the
-stones consist of the mill-stone grit, basalt, or granite of the
-district; others are formed of a species of lava which is not procured
-in any locality nearer than Rhine Prussia. The advantage of these
-foreign stones is, that, though hard, they are porous, and, as they wear
-away, still present a continuity of sharp edges to the action of the
-grain.
-
-The process of grinding the corn by hand-mills must have been a most
-tedious one. Probably a large proportion of the grain consumed by the
-soldiers of the Barrier was simply boiled, after being slightly bruised
-in mortars.
-
-
-[Sidenote: CONCLUSION.]
-
-Here a period must be put to this account of the Roman Wall and its
-antiquities. Many topics worthy of fuller discussion have been but
-cursorily treated, and some omitted altogether; but it is impossible, in
-a work of this extent, to do full justice to a subject of such
-magnitude; we content ourselves with imitating the moderation of
-Hadrian, who, instead of grasping at universal empire, sought only a
-dominion which he might reasonably hope to maintain.
-
-Still, we may reckon on some advantage from the brief communion we have
-held with the Mighty among the Ancients. We can hardly tarry, even for
-an hour, in association with the palmy days of the Great Empire, without
-learning, on the one hand, to emulate the virtues that adorned her
-prosperity, and on the other, to shun the vices that were punished by
-her downfall. The sceptre which Rome relinquished, we have taken up.
-Great is our Honour—great our Responsibility—
-
- ... Heavenly wisdom on this ball
- Creates, gives birth to, guides, consummates all.
- States thrive or wither (as moons wax and wane)
- E'en as His will and His decrees ordain;
- While Honour, Virtue, Piety, bear sway,
- They flourish; and as those decline, decay.
-
-[Illustration: Tail piece—Romæ Æternæ Fortunæ Reduci]
-
------
-
-Footnote 137:
-
- This small altar was found at Benwell, and is now in the possession of
- the Society of Antiquaries, London—it is drawn to twice the usual
- scale.
-
-Footnote 138:
-
- On the ides the undefiled priest in the temple of the great Jove
- offers in the flames the entrails of a wether.
-
-Footnote 139:
-
- Archæologia Æliana, i. 306.
-
-Footnote 140:
-
- Smith’s Dictionary of Biography and Mythology.
-
-Footnote 141:
-
- Decurion, a commander of a troop of ten men.
-
-Footnote 142:
-
- This and the two subsequent cuts are drawn to twice the usual scale.
-
-Footnote 143:
-
- For further information on this interesting subject the reader is
- referred to two admirable papers by Mr. C. Roach Smith, and Mr. Thomas
- Wright, in the second volume of the Journal of the British
- Archæological Association.
-
-Footnote 144:
-
- Vows in Trouble, by John Horsley, A.M. London: Printed for Richard
- Ford, at the Angel, in the Poultry, near Stocks market. And sold by R.
- Akenhead, Bookseller, at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 1729.—At the time
- Horsley published this book, he was engaged in the preparation of the
- _Britannia Romana_.
-
-Footnote 145:
-
- Smith’s Collectanea Antiqua i. 21.
-
-Footnote 146:
-
- The first cohort of the Vangiones were in Britain in the time of
- Hadrian, from whom some of them, in 132, had a discharge from the
- army, with the privilege to marry. They were from Belgic Gaul, and
- were a long time quartered at Risingham, at which station eight of
- their tribunes have left their names on inscriptions.
-
- _Hist. Nor._ II. iii. 183.
-
-Footnote 147:
-
- See Remains of Roman Art in Cirencester, 78.
-
------
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- INDEX.
-
- ABALLABA, 297.
- ÆSICA, Great Chesters, 254.
- Agricola lands in Britain, 7.
- ALIONIS, 347.
- Altars, form of, 395.
- AMBOGLANNA, Birdoswald, 278.
- Amphoræ, 445.
- Ancient Britons, description of, 16.
- Apollo, altar to, 411.
- Aqueduct at Great Chesters, 257.
- Arthur, King, traditions respecting, 205.
- Arthur’s Well, 264.
- Astures, a people from Spain, 141.
-
-
- Battle of Heaven-field, 167.
- Bede, on the building of the Wall, 379.
- Belatucadrus, altar to, 401.
- Belted Will, 285.
- Benwell, CONDERCUM, 137.
- Bewcastle, 344.
- Binchester, 344.
- Birdoswald, AMBOGLANNA, 278.
- Black-carts farm, Wall on, 196.
- Black-dike, 211.
- Blake-chesters, 321.
- Blast furnace, 443.
- Blea-tarn, 297.
- Bloody-gap, 244.
- Bogle-hole, traditions of, 245.
- BORCOVICUS, Housesteads, 214.
- BORCOVICUS, etymology of, 228.
- Borcum or Barcombe, quarry on, 231.
- Border strife, 296.
- Borders, state of, in middle ages, 209.
- Bradley, 232.
- Brampton, 349.
- Bridge at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 130.
- Bridge over North Tyne, 170.
- Britain, first notice of, 2.
- BREMENIUM, High-Rochester, 325.
- BREMETENRACUM, 350.
- Broaching of the stones, 85.
- Brunton, the Wall at, 169.
- Bueth’s castle, 345.
- Burgh-upon-Sands, 304.
- Burnswark, 356.
- Busy-gap, 207.
- Byker-hill, 118.
-
-
- Cæsar’s landing in Britain, 3.
- Carrawburgh, PROCOLITIA, 197.
- Cambeck-fort, PETRIANA, 288.
- Camp kettles, 444.
- Carausius, 21.
- Carlisle, LUGUVALLIUM, 301.
- Carvoran, MAGNA, 267.
- Castella, 67.
- CASTRA EXPLORATORUM, 353.
- Caw-gap, 246.
- Cemeteries, 183, 262.
- Centurial Stones, 429.
- Chapel-hill, 224.
- Chapel-house, 274.
- Chapel-houses, 147.
- Chesters, CILURNUM, 171.
- Chesterholm, VINDOLANA, 236.
- Chew-green, 325.
- Chives on Walltown crags, 264.
- Christian remains, none on the Wall, 421.
- Christianity, early introduction of into Britain, 422.
- CILURNUM, Chesters, 171.
- _Cippi_, 326.
- Coal wrought by the Romans, 442.
- Cocidius, altar to, 401.
- Coins found on Borcum, 231, 434.
- Coins found in Cambeck fort, 289.
- Coins found in Newcastle bridge, 131.
- Coins, number of Roman, relating to Britain, 37.
- Coins, general remarks upon, 431.
- Coins, number found on the Wall, 432.
- Coins, Roman and Saxon, not commingled, 433.
- Coins, spurious, 365.
- Concrete, hydraulic properties of Roman, 182.
- Constantine proclaimed emperor, 23.
- CONDERCUM, Benwell, 137.
- Corchester, CORSTOPITUM, 332.
- CORSTOPITUM, Corchester, 332.
- Cost of the Wall, 94.
- Cousin’s-house, 113.
- Crags, why the Wall built upon, 201.
- Cumming’s cross, 206.
-
-
- _Dea Hamia_, 417.
- _Deæ Matres_, 417.
- Denton Hall, 146.
- Devil’s Wall in Germany, 96.
- Down-hill, 156.
- Drumburgh, 309.
- Dykesfield, 307.
-
-
- Earthenware, 445.
- Ebchester, 341.
- Edward I. at Bradley, 233.
- Egyptian triple goddesses, 418.
- Ellenborough, 361.
- Emperors worshipped, 398.
- EPEIACUM, 342.
- Epona, altar to, 415.
-
-
- Fibulæ, 444.
- Fisher’s-cross, 311.
- Forest, primeval, 310.
- Fortune, altar to, 403.
- Fosse of the Wall, 51.
-
-
- Gelt quarry, 385.
- Genius, local, altar to, 399.
- Genius of the Wall, 353.
- Gildas’ account of the miseries of the Britons, 27.
- Glass for windows, 222.
- Goddess mothers, 417.
- Graham’s-dike, 97.
- Great Chesters, ÆSICA, 254.
- Grooves in thresholds of gates, 220.
-
-
- HABITANCUM, Risingham, 329.
- Hadrian arrives in Britain, 11.
- Hadrian, death of, 391.
- Hadrian slabs, 383.
- Harlow-hill, 155.
- Halton-chesters, HUNNUM, 159.
- Haltwhistle, 252.
- Haltwhistle-burn-head, 254.
- Hare-hill, 284.
- Heddon-on-the-Wall, 149.
- Hedley, Rev. Anthony, 105.
- Hexham, 194, 339.
- Historical testimonies respecting the building of the Wall, 372.
- Hodgson, Rev. John, 106.
- Horsley, biographical notice of, 103.
- Horsley on Christian vows, 423.
- Hospital, camp, 362.
- Housesteads, BORCOVICUS, 214.
- HUNNUM, Halton-chesters, 159.
- Hypocausts at HUNNUM, 162.
- Hypocausts, their probable use, 180.
- Hypocausts at Chesters, 174.
-
-
- Inscriptions, value of, 187.
- Iron wrought by the Romans, 442.
- Irthington, 295.
- Itinerary of Antonine, 328.
-
-
- Jarrow, 323.
- Jupiter, altar to, 397.
-
-
- Keep of Castle of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 135.
- Kiln for drying corn, 223.
- Kirk-Andrews, 302.
-
-
- Lakes of Northumberland, 229.
- _Lamiæ_, 418.
- Langley castle, 231.
- Lanchester, 342.
- Lanercost priory, 284.
- Lanx, the Corbridge, 334.
- Lead wrought by the Romans, 442.
- Legio XX. engaged upon the Wall, 247.
- Limekiln, 327.
- Limestone-bank, 195.
- _Lingones_ at Tynemouth, 108.
- LUGUVALLIUM, Carlisle, 301.
-
-
- MAGNA, Carvoran, 267.
- Maiden-way, 269.
- Malcolm Canmore, 321.
- Mars, altars to, 401.
- Maryport, 361.
- Masonry of the Stations, 84.
- Masonry of the Wall, 78.
- Maximus, 319.
- Middleby, 354.
- Mile-castles, 67.
- Mile-castle at Cawfield, 248.
- Mile-stone, 239.
- Mill-stones, 448.
- Military-way, 69.
- Milking-gap, 234.
- Minerva, altar to, 402.
- Mithras, altar to, 404.
- Monument to Edward I., 306.
- Moresby, 366.
- Mortar, Roman, 86.
- _Mortaria_, 445.
- Mountain-god, 415.
- Mumps-hall, 275.
- Murus and Vallum, one design, 387.
- Mythology of Gothic tribes, 421.
-
-
- Names of stations ascertained, 61.
- Naworth-castle, 284.
- Netherby, 352.
- Nether-hall, 362.
- Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 121.
- Nine-nicks of Thirlwall, 265.
- North Shields, 321.
- Nymphs, 414.
-
-
- Old Carlisle, 360.
- Old Town, 349.
- Ouseburn mile-castle, 119.
-
-
- Pap-castle, 366.
- Passage of the Eden, 300.
- Passage of the Irthing, 277.
- Peel-crag, 243.
- Peel-houses, 253.
- PETRIANA, Cambeck-fort, 288.
- Polytheism of the Romans, 398.
- Plumpton, 358.
- PONS ÆLII, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 121.
- PROCOLITIA, Carrawburgh, 197.
-
-
- Quarry on Fallowfield fell, 80.
- Quarry on Haltwhistle fell, 80.
- Quarry, Roman, 292.
-
-
- Rapishaw-gap, 230.
- Richard of Cirencester on the building of the Wall, 390.
- Risingham, HABITANCUM, 329.
- Rochester, High, BREMENIUM, 325.
- Roman emperors, number who visited Britain, 36.
- Ruts in gateway of Birdoswald, 280.
- Rutchester, VINDOBALA, 150.
-
-
- Sacrifices, Roman, 396.
- Samian ware, 447.
- Sandals, Roman, 348.
- Secondary forts, 315.
- SEGEDUNUM, Wallsend, 105.
- Sepulchral inscriptions, 424.
- Severus lands in Britain, 15.
- Severus, death of, 392.
- Sewingshields farm-house, 200.
- Shields’-lawe, 322.
- Silvanus, altar to, 413.
- Speaking pipes in the Wall, 76.
- Stags’-horns, 269.
- Stanwix, 299.
- Stations, description of, 56.
- _Stationes per lineam valli_, 60.
- Steel-rig, 243.
- Stotes-houses, 117.
- Streets, narrowness of, 221.
- Syrian goddess, 412.
-
-
- Tepper-moor, 196.
- Terraced gardens, 224.
- Thirlwall-castle, 270.
- Time occupied in building the Wall, 94.
- Toads represented on altars, 416.
- Tower of Repentance, 307.
- Tower-tay, 195.
- Traditions regarding CILURNUM, 192.
- Traditions, Sewingshields, 203.
- Transmarine Mothers, 419.
- Troughs of stone, 158.
- _Tumuli_, 351, 365.
- Turrets, 68.
- Twice-brewed-ale (inn), 233.
- Tynemouth, 318.
-
-
- Vallum, description of, 52.
- Vallum, additional rampart of, 283.
- Vangiones, 427.
- Vegetation inimical to the Wall, 93.
- Vespasian and Titus in Britain, 5.
- Viteres, altars to, 395, 416, 417.
- Victory, figure of, 300.
- VINDOBALA, Rutchester, 150.
- VINDOLANA, Chesterholm, 236.
- VINDOMORA, 342.
-
-
- Wallend, 273.
- Wall, in relation to the rivers, 100.
- Wallis, 349.
- Wall-mill, 262.
- Wall, probable height of, 47.
- Wallsend, SEGEDUNUM, 105.
- Walltown crags, 263.
- Walton, 287.
- Warden-hill, 194.
- Wardley, 324.
- Water-course, ancient, 161, 257.
- Watch-cross, 298.
- Whitley-castle, 346.
- Wreckendike, 322.
- Written rock on the Gelt, 81.
-
-
- Zodiacal tablet, #409.#
-
-
-
-
- Transcriber’s Note
-
-On p. 178, footnote 86 appears with no anchor in the text. Judging from
-the context, the anchor has been placed at the end of the sentence
-beginning ‘The stone pillars are...’, which mentions the balusters
-referred to in the note.
-
-On p. 317, based on the context, the word ‘stones’ in the phrase ‘all
-the trifling [stones] put together’, is most likely a misprinting of
-‘stories’.
-
-Lapses and inconsistencies in punctuation and format in tabular matter,
-or in the Index have been silently corrected.
-
-The index entry 'Fosse of the Wall' is out of order, and its position
-has been adjusted.
-
-Errors deemed most likely to be the printer’s have been corrected, and
-are noted here.
-
- p. x. British Archæ[o]logical Association Added.
-
- p. xx. 16. Section of Works, near eighteenth Transposed.
- mile-stone [25/52]
-
- p. xxiii. 164. Sc[lu]/ul]pture to the Deæ Matres Transposed.
-
- p. 8 f[ri/ir]ths Transposed.
-
- p. 16 that ascend from these marshes.[”] Removed.
-
- p. 50 T[ih/hi]s portion Transposed.
-
- p. 62 wh[i]ch is thus inscribed Added.
-
- p. 65 n. 34 and in the neig[h]bourhood Added.
-
- p. 103 n. 54 a native of No[r]thumberland Added.
-
- The mi[l]liary which told to Hadrian’s Added.
- soldiers
-
- p. 134 suc[c]essor Added.
-
- p. 150 so that a [a ]greater portion Line break
- repetition.
-
- p. 204 have bee[e]n widely diffused Removed.
-
- p. 258 artific[i]al mound Added.
-
- Wher[e]ever line break
- hyphenation
- error.
-
- p. 310 circu[cu]lar Removed.
-
- p. 362 The body of [of] the road Removed.
-
- p. 380 n. 135 is now known in the [p/d]istrict Corrected.
-
- p. 407 dis[c]ipline Added.
-
- p. 423 _deserve[r]dly_ Removed.
-
- p. 430 vi[n]cinity Removed.
-
- p. 447 f[n/u]rnace Corrected.
-
-
-
-
-
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