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diff --git a/old/50355-0.txt b/old/50355-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bb3368f..0000000 --- a/old/50355-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1859 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Titan of Chasms, by -C. A. Higgins and John Wesley Powell and Charles F. Lummis - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Titan of Chasms - The Grand Canyon of Arizona - -Author: C. A. Higgins - John Wesley Powell - Charles F. Lummis - -Release Date: October 31, 2015 [EBook #50355] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TITAN OF CHASMS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan, the Mo-Ark -Regional Railroad Museum at Poplar Bluff, Missouri and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - Titan of Chasms - The Grand Canyon of Arizona - - - THE TITAN OF CHASMS - By C. A. HIGGINS - - THE SCIENTIFIC EXPLORER - By J. W. POWELL - - THE GREATEST THING IN THE WORLD - By CHAS. F. LUMMIS - - INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS - - [Illustration: Sante Fe] - - Fortieth Thousand - PASSENGER DEPARTMENT - THE SANTA FE - CHICAGO, 1903. - - [Illustration: Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody. - Bright Angel Creek and North Wall of the Canyon.] - - [Illustration: Uncaptioned vista] - - - - - THE TITAN OF CHASMS - BY C. A. HIGGINS - - - Its History - -The Colorado is one of the great rivers of North America. Formed in -Southern Utah by the confluence of the Green and Grand, it intersects -the northwestern corner of Arizona, and, becoming the eastern boundary -of Nevada and California, flows southward until it reaches tidewater in -the Gulf of California, Mexico. It drains a territory of 300,000 square -miles, and, traced back to the rise of its principal source, is 2,000 -miles long. At two points, Needles and Yuma on the California boundary, -it is crossed by a railroad. Elsewhere its course lies far from -Caucasian settlements and far from the routes of common travel, in the -heart of a vast region fenced on the one hand by arid plains or deep -forests and on the other by formidable mountains. - -The early Spanish explorers first reported it to the civilized world in -1540, two separate expeditions becoming acquainted with the river for a -comparatively short distance above its mouth, and another, journeying -from the Moki Pueblos northwestward across the desert, obtaining the -first view of the Big Canyon, failing in every effort to descend the -canyon wall, and spying the river only from afar. - -Again, in 1776, a Spanish priest traveling southward through Utah struck -off from the Virgin River to the southeast and found a practicable -crossing at a point that still bears the name “Vado de los Padres.” - -For more than eighty years thereafter the Big Canyon remained unvisited -except by the Indian, the Mormon herdsman, and the trapper, although the -Sitgreaves expedition of 1851, journeying westward, struck the river -about 150 miles above Yuma, and Lieutenant Whipple in 1854 made a survey -for a practicable railroad route along the thirty-fifth parallel, where -the Santa Fe Pacific has since been constructed. - -The establishment of military posts in New Mexico and Utah having made -desirable the use of a waterway for the cheap transportation of -supplies, in 1857 the War Department dispatched an expedition in charge -of Lieutenant Ives to explore the Colorado as far from its mouth as -navigation should be found practicable. Ives ascended the river in a -specially constructed steamboat to the head of Black Canyon, a few miles -below the confluence of the Virgin River in Nevada, where further -navigation became impossible; then, returning to the Needles, he set off -across the country toward the northeast. He reached the Big Canyon at -Diamond Creek and at Cataract Creek in the spring of 1858, and from the -latter point made a wide southward detour around the San Francisco -Peaks, thence northeastward to the Moki Pueblos, thence eastward to Fort -Defiance, and so back to civilization. - -That is the history of the explorations of the Colorado up to forty -years ago. Its exact course was unknown for many hundred miles, even its -origin being a matter of conjecture. It was difficult to approach within -a distance of two or three miles from the channel, while descent to the -river’s edge could be hazarded only at wide intervals, inasmuch as it -lay in an appalling fissure at the foot of seemingly impassable cliff -terraces that led down from the bordering plateau; and to attempt its -navigation was to court death. It was known in a general way that the -entire channel between Nevada and Utah was of the same titanic -character, reaching its culmination nearly midway in its course through -Arizona. - - [Illustration: The Colorado, Foot of Bright Angel Trail.] - -In 1869 Maj. J. W. Powell undertook the exploration of the river with -nine men and four boats, starting from Green River City, on the Green -River, in Utah. The project met with the most urgent remonstrance from -those who were best acquainted with the region, including the Indians, -who maintained that boats could not possibly live in any one of a score -of rapids and falls known to them, to say nothing of the vast unknown -stretches in which at any moment a Niagara might be disclosed. It was -also currently believed that for hundreds of miles the river disappeared -wholly beneath the surface of the earth. Powell launched his flotilla on -May 24th, and on August 30th landed at the mouth of the Virgin River, -more than one thousand miles by the river channel from the place of -starting, minus two boats and four men. One of the men had left the -expedition by way of an Indian reservation agency before reaching -Arizona, and three, after holding out against unprecedented terrors for -many weeks, had finally become daunted, choosing to encounter the perils -of an unknown desert rather than to brave any longer the frightful -menaces of that Stygian torrent. These three, unfortunately making their -appearance on the plateau at a time when a recent depredation was -colorably chargeable upon them, were killed by Indians, their story of -having come thus far down the river in boats being wholly discredited by -their captors. - -Powell’s journal of the trip is a fascinating tale, written in a compact -and modest style, which, in spite of its reticence, tells an epic story -of purest heroism. It definitely established the scene of his -exploration as the most wonderful geological and spectacular phenomenon -known to mankind, and justified the name which had been bestowed upon -it—The Grand Canyon—sublimest of gorges; Titan of chasms. Many -scientists have since visited it, and, in the aggregate, a large number -of unprofessional lovers of nature; but until a few years ago no -adequate facilities were provided for the general sight-seer, and the -world’s most stupendous panorama was known principally through report, -by reason of the discomforts and difficulties, of the trip, which -deterred all except the most indefatigable enthusiasts. Even its -geographical location is the subject of widespread misapprehension. - -Its title has been pirated for application to relatively insignificant -canyons in distant parts of the country, and thousands of tourists have -been led to believe that they saw the Grand Canyon, when, in fact, they -looked upon a totally different scene, between which and the real Grand -Canyon there is no more comparison “than there is between the -Alleghanies or Trosachs and the Himalayas.” - -There is but one Grand Canyon. Nowhere in the world has its like been -found. - - - As Seen From the Rim - -Stolid, indeed, is he who can front the awful scene and view its -unearthly splendor of color and form without quaking knee or tremulous -breath. An inferno, swathed in soft celestial fires; a whole chaotic -under-world, just emptied of primeval floods and waiting for a new -creative word; eluding all sense of perspective or dimension, -outstretching the faculty of measurement, overlapping the confines of -definite apprehension; a boding, terrible thing, unflinchingly real, yet -spectral as a dream. The beholder is at first unimpressed by any detail; -he is overwhelmed by the _ensemble_ of a stupendous panorama, a thousand -square miles in extent, that lies wholly beneath the eye, as if he stood -upon a mountain peak instead of the level brink of a fearful chasm in -the plateau, whose opposite shore is thirteen miles away. A labyrinth of -huge architectural forms, endlessly varied in design, fretted with -ornamental devices, festooned with lace-like webs formed of talus from -the upper cliffs and painted with every color known to the palette in -pure transparent tones of marvelous delicacy. Never was picture more -harmonious, never flower more exquisitely beautiful. It flashes instant -communication of all that architecture and painting and music for a -thousand years have gropingly striven to express. It is the soul of -Michael Angelo and of Beethoven. - - [Illustration: Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody. - The River and the Canyon Wall.] - -A canyon, truly, but not after the accepted type. An intricate system of -canyons, rather, each subordinate to the river channel in the midst, -which in its turn is subordinate to the whole effect. That river -channel, the profoundest depth, and actually more than 6,000 feet below -the point of view, is in seeming a rather insignificant trench, -attracting the eye more by reason of its somber tone and mysterious -suggestion than by any appreciable characteristic of a chasm. It is -perhaps five miles distant in a straight line, and its uppermost rims -are nearly 4,000 feet beneath the observer, whose measuring capacity is -entirely inadequate to the demand made by such magnitudes. One can not -believe the distance to be more than a mile as the crow flies, before -descending the wall or attempting some other form of actual measurement. - -Mere brain knowledge counts for little against the illusion under which -the organ of vision is here doomed to labor. Yonder cliff, darkening -from white to gray, yellow, and brown as your glance descends, is taller -than the Washington Monument. The Auditorium in Chicago would not cover -one-half its perpendicular span. Yet it does not greatly impress you. -You idly toss a pebble toward it, and are surprised to note how far the -missile falls short. By and by you will learn that it is a good half -mile distant, and when you go down the trail you will gain an abiding -sense of its real proportions. Yet, relatively, it is an unimportant -detail of the scene. Were Vulcan to cast it bodily into the chasm -directly beneath your feet, it would pass for a bowlder, if, indeed, it -were discoverable to the unaided eye. - -Yet the immediate chasm itself is only the first step of a long terrace -that leads down to the innermost gorge and the river. Roll a heavy stone -to the rim and let it go. It falls sheer the height of a church or an -Eiffel Tower, according to the point selected for such pastime, and -explodes like a bomb on a projecting ledge. If, happily, any -considerable fragments remain, they bound onward like elastic balls, -leaping in wild parabola from point to point, snapping trees like -straws; bursting, crashing, thundering down the declivities until they -make a last plunge over the brink of a void; and then there comes -languidly up the cliff sides a faint, distant roar, and your bowlder -that had withstood the buffets of centuries lies scattered as wide as -Wycliffe’s ashes, although the final fragment has lodged only a little -way, so to speak, below the rim. Such performances are frequently given -in these amphitheaters without human aid, by the mere undermining of the -rain, or perhaps it is here that Sisyphus rehearses his unending task. -Often in the silence of night some tremendous fragment has been heard -crashing from terrace to terrace with shocks like thunder peal. - -The spectacle is so symmetrical, and so completely excludes the outside -world and its accustomed standards, it is with difficulty one can -acquire any notion of its immensity. Were it half as deep, half as -broad, it would be no less bewildering, so utterly does it baffle human -grasp. - - - The Trip to the River - -Only by descending into the canyon may one arrive at anything like -comprehension of its proportions, and the descent can not be too -urgently commended to every visitor who is sufficiently robust to bear a -reasonable amount of fatigue. There are four paths down the southern -wall of the canyon in the granite gorge district—Mystic Spring, Bright -Angel, Berry’s and Hance’s trails. The following account of a descent of -the old Hance trail will serve to indicate the nature of such an -experience to-day, except that the trip may now be safely made with -greater comfort. - -For the first two miles it is a sort of Jacob’s ladder, zigzagging at an -unrelenting pitch. At the end of two miles a comparatively gentle slope -is reached, known as the blue limestone level, some 2,500 feet below the -rim, that is to say—for such figures have to be impressed objectively -upon the mind—five times the height of St. Peter’s, the Pyramid of -Cheops, or the Strasburg Cathedral; eight times the height of the -Bartholdi Statue of Liberty; eleven times the height of Bunker Hill -Monument. Looking back from this level the huge picturesque towers that -border the rim shrink to pigmies and seem to crown a perpendicular wall, -unattainably far in the sky. Yet less than one-half the descent has been -made. - -Overshadowed by sandstone of chocolate hue the way grows gloomy and -foreboding, and the gorge narrows. The traveler stops a moment beneath a -slanting cliff 500 feet high, where there is an Indian grave and pottery -scattered about. A gigantic niche has been worn in the face of this -cavernous cliff, which, in recognition of its fancied Egyptian -character, was named the Temple of Sett by the painter, Thomas Moran. - -A little beyond this temple it becomes necessary to abandon the animals. -The river is still a mile and a half distant. The way narrows now to a -mere notch, where two wagons could barely pass, and the granite begins -to tower gloomily overhead, for we have dropped below the sandstone and -have entered the archæan—a frowning black rock, streaked, veined, and -swirled with vivid red and white, smoothed and polished by the rivulet -and beautiful as a mosaic. Obstacles are encountered in the form of -steep, interposing crags, past which the brook has found a way, but over -which the pedestrian must clamber. After these lesser difficulties come -sheer descents, which at present are passed by the aid of ropes. - -The last considerable drop is a 40-foot bit by the side of a pretty -cascade, where there are just enough irregularities in the wall to give -toe-hold. The narrowed cleft becomes exceedingly wayward in its course, -turning abruptly to right and left, and working down into twilight -depth. It is very still. At every turn one looks to see the embouchure -upon the river, anticipating the sudden shock of the unintercepted roar -of waters. When at last this is reached, over a final downward clamber, -the traveler stands upon a sandy rift confronted by nearly vertical -walls many hundred feet high, at whose base a black torrent pitches in a -giddying onward slide that gives him momentarily the sensation of -slipping into an abyss. - - [Illustration: A Party on Bright Angel Trail.] - -With so little labor may one come to the Colorado River in the heart of -its most tremendous channel, and gaze upon a sight that heretofore has -had fewer witnesses than have the wilds of Africa. Dwarfed by such -prodigious mountain shores, which rise immediately from the water at an -angle that would deny footing to a mountain sheep, it is not easy to -estimate confidently the width and volume of the river. Choked by the -stubborn granite at this point, its width is probably between 250 and -300 feet, its velocity fifteen miles an hour, and its volume and turmoil -equal to the Whirlpool Rapids of Niagara. Its rise in time of heavy rain -is rapid and appalling, for the walls shed almost instantly all the -water that falls upon them. Drift is lodged in the crevices thirty feet -overhead. - -For only a few hundred yards is the tortuous stream visible, but its -effect upon the senses is perhaps the greater for that reason. Issuing -as from a mountain side, it slides with oily smoothness for a space and -suddenly breaks into violent waves that comb back against the current -and shoot unexpectedly here and there, while the volume sways tide-like -from side to side, and long curling breakers form and hold their outline -lengthwise of the shore, despite the seemingly irresistible velocity of -the water. The river is laden with drift (huge tree trunks), which it -tosses like chips in its terrible play. - -Standing upon that shore one can barely credit Powell’s achievement, in -spite of its absolute authenticity. Never was a more magnificent -self-reliance displayed than by the man who not only undertook the -passage of Colorado River but won his way. And after viewing a fraction -of the scene at close range, one can not hold it to the discredit of -three of his companions that they abandoned the undertaking not far -below this point. The fact that those who persisted got through alive is -hardly more astonishing than that any should have had the hardihood to -persist. For it could not have been alone the privation, the infinite -toil, the unending suspense in constant menace of death that assaulted -their courage; these they had looked for; it was rather the unlifted -gloom of those tartarean depths, the unspeakable horrors of an endless -valley of the shadow of death, in which every step was irrevocable. - -Returning to the spot where the animals were abandoned, camp is made for -the night. Next morning the way is retraced. Not the most fervid -pictures of a poet’s fancy could transcend the glories then revealed in -the depths of the canyon; inky shadows, pale gildings of lofty spires, -golden splendors of sun beating full on façades of red and yellow, -obscurations of distant peaks by veils of transient shower, glimpses of -white towers half drowned in purple haze, suffusions of rosy light -blended in reflection from a hundred tinted walls. Caught up to exalted -emotional heights the beholder becomes unmindful of fatigue. He mounts -on wings. He drives the chariot of the sun. - - [Illustration: Uncaptioned vista] - -Having returned to the plateau, it will be found that the descent into -the canyon has bestowed a sense of intimacy that almost amounts to a -mental grasp of the scene. The terrific deeps that part the walls of -hundreds of castles and turrets of mountainous bulk may be approximately -located in barely discernible pen-strokes of detail, and will be -apprehended mainly through the memory of upward looks from the bottom, -while towers and obstructions and yawning fissures that were deemed -events of the trail will be wholly indistinguishable, although they are -known to lie somewhere flat beneath the eye. The comparative -insignificance of what are termed grand sights in other parts of the -world is now clearly revealed. Twenty Yosemites might lie unperceived -anywhere below. Niagara, that Mecca of marvel seekers, would not here -possess the dignity of a trout stream. Your companion, standing at a -short distance on the verge, is an insect to the eye. - -Still, such particulars can not long hold the attention, for the -panorama is the real overmastering charm. It is never twice the same. -Although you think you have spelt out every temple and peak and -escarpment, as the angle of sunlight changes there begins a ghostly -advance of colossal forms from the farther side, and what you had taken -to be the ultimate wall is seen to be made up of still other isolated -sculptures, revealed now for the first time by silhouetting shadows. The -scene incessantly changes, flushing and fading, advancing into -crystalline clearness, retiring into slumberous haze. - -Should it chance to have rained heavily in the night, next morning the -canyon is completely filled with fog. As the sun mounts, the curtain of -mist suddenly breaks into cloud fleeces, and while you gaze these -fleeces rise and dissipate, leaving the canyon bare. At once around the -bases of the lowest cliffs white puffs begin to appear, creating a scene -of unparalleled beauty as their dazzling cumuli swell and rise and their -number multiplies, until once more they overflow the rim, and it is as -if you stood on some land’s end looking down upon a formless void. Then -quickly comes the complete dissipation, and again the marshaling in the -depths, the upward advance, the total suffusion and the speedy -vanishing, repeated over and over until the warm walls have expelled -their saturation. - -Long may the visitor loiter upon the verge, powerless to shake loose -from the charm, tirelessly intent upon the silent transformations until -the sun is low in the west. Then the canyon sinks into mysterious purple -shadow, the far Shinumo Altar is tipped with a golden ray, and against a -leaden horizon the long line of the Echo Cliffs reflects a soft -brilliance of indescribable beauty, a light that, elsewhere, surely -never was on sea or land. Then darkness falls, and should there be a -moon, the scene in part revives in silver light, a thousand spectral -forms projected from inscrutable gloom; dreams of mountains, as in their -sleep they brood on things eternal. - - [Illustration: Uncaptioned vista] - - [Illustration: Uncaptioned vista] - - - - - THE SCIENTIFIC EXPLORER - BY J. W. POWELL - - - The Ives and Wheeler Expeditions - -In the fall of 1857 Lieutenant Ives, of the engineer corps of the army, -ascended the Colorado River on a trip of exploration with a little -steamer called the Explorer; he went as far as the mouth of the Rio -Virgin. Falling back down river a few miles, Lieutenant Ives met a pack -train which had followed him up the bank of the stream. Here he -disembarked, and on the 24th of March started with a land party to -explore the eastern bank of the river; making a long detour he ascended -the plateau through which the Grand Canyon is cut, and in an adventurous -journey he obtained views of the canyon along its lower course. On this -trip J. S. Newberry was the geologist, and to him we are indebted for -the first geological explanation of the canyon and the description of -the high plateau through which it is formed. Doctor Newberry was not -only an able geologist, but he was also a graphic writer, and his -description of the canyon as far as it was seen by him is a classic in -geology. - -In 1869 Lieutenant Wheeler was sent out by the chief engineer of the -army to explore the Grand Canyon from below. In the spring he succeeded -in reaching the mouth of Diamond Creek, which had previously been seen -by Doctor Newberry in 1858. Mr. Gilbert was the geologist of this -expedition, and his studies of the canyon region during this and -subsequent years have added greatly to our knowledge of this land of -wonders. - - - Major Powell’s Several Trips - -In this same year I essayed to explore the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, -together with the upper canyons of that stream and the great canyons of -the lower portion of Green River. For this purpose I employed four -rowboats and made the descent from what is now Green River station -through the whole course of canyons to the mouth of the Rio Virgin, a -distance of more than a thousand miles. - - [Illustration: From Kaibab Plateau, Looking South.] - -In the spring of 1870 I again started with three boats and descended the -river to the Crossing of the Fathers, where I met a pack train and went -out with a party of men to explore ways down into the Grand Canyon from -the north, and devoted the summer, fall, winter, and following spring to -this undertaking. - -In the summer of 1871 I returned to the rowboats and descended through -Marble Canyon to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, and then through the -greater part of the Grand Canyon itself. Subsequent years were then -given to exploration of the country adjacent to the Grand Canyon. On -these trips Mr. Gilbert, the geologist, who had been with Lieutenant -Wheeler, and Capt. C. E. Dutton, were my geological companions. On the -second boat trip, and during all the subsequent years of exploration in -this region, Prof. A. H. Thompson was my geographical companion, -assisted by a number of topographical engineers. - -In 1882 Mr. C. D. Walcott, as my assistant in the United States -Geological Survey, went with me into the depths of the Grand Canyon. We -descended from the summit of the Kaibab Plateau on the north by a trail -which we built down a side canyon in a direction toward the mouth of the -Little Colorado River. The descent was made in the fall, and a small -party of men was left with Mr. Walcott in this region of stupendous -depths to make a study of the geology of an important region of -labyrinthian gorges. Here, with his party, he was shut up for the -winter, for it was known when we left him that snows on the summit of -the plateau would prevent his return to the upper region before the sun -should melt them the next spring. Mr. Walcott is now the Director of the -United States Geological Survey. - -After this year I made no substantial additions to my geologic and -scenic knowledge of the Grand Canyon, though I afterward studied the -archæology to the south and east throughout a wide region of ruined -pueblos and cliff dwellings. - -Since my first trip in boats many others have essayed to follow me, and -year by year such expeditions have met with disaster; some hardy -adventurers are buried on the banks of the Green, and the graves of -others are scattered at intervals along the course of the Colorado. - -In 1889 the brave F. M. Brown lost his life. But finally a party of -railroad engineers, led by R. B. Stanton, started at the head of Marble -Canyon and made their way down the river as they extended a survey for a -railroad along its course. - -Other adventurous travelers have visited portions of the Grand Canyon -region, and Mr. G. Wharton James has extended his travels widely over -the region in the interest of popular science and the new literature -created in the last decades of the nineteenth century. And now I once -more return to a reminiscent account of the Grand Canyon, for old men -love to talk of the past. - - - The Plateau Region - -The Grand Canyon of Arizona and the Marble Canyon constitute one great -gorge carved by a mighty river through a high plateau. On the northeast -and north a line of cliffs face this plateau by a bold escarpment of -rock. Climb these cliffs and you must ascend from 800 to 1,000 feet, but -on their summit you will stand upon a plateau stretching away to the -north. Now turn to face the south and you will overlook the cliff and -what appears to be a valley below. From the foot of the cliff the -country rises to the south to a great plateau through which the Marble -and the Grand canyons are carved. This plateau terminates abruptly on -the west by the Grand Wash Cliffs, which is a high escarpment caused by -a “fault” (as the geologist calls it), that is, the strata of sandstone -and limestone are broken off, and to the west of the fracture they are -dropped down several thousand feet, so that standing upon the edge of -the plateau above the Grand Wash Cliffs you may look off to the west -over a vast region of desert from which low volcanic mountains rise that -seem like purple mounds in sand-clad lands. - -On the east the great plateau breaks down in a very irregular way into -the valley of the Little Colorado, and where the railroad ascends the -plateau from the east it passes over picturesque canyons that run down -into the Little Colorado. On the south the plateau is merged into the -great system of mountains that stand in Southern Arizona. Where the -plateau ends and the mountains begin is not a well-defined line. The -plateau through which the Grand Canyon is cut is a region of great -scenic interest. Its surface is from six to more than eight thousand -feet above the level of the sea. The Grand Plateau is composed of many -subsidiary plateaus, each one having its own peculiar and interesting -feature. - -The Kaibab Plateau, to the northeast of the Grand Canyon, is covered -with a pine forest which is intercepted by a few meadows with here and -there a pond or lakelet. It is the home of deer and bear. - -To the west is the Shinumo Plateau in which the Shinumo Canyon is -carved; and on the cliffs of this canyon and in the narrow valley along -its course the Shinumo ruins are found—the relics of a prehistoric race. - -To the west of the Shinumo Plateau is the Kanab Plateau, with ruins -scattered over it, and on its northern border the beautiful Mormon town -of Kanab is found, and the canyon of Kanab Creek separates the Shinumo -Plateau from the Kanab Plateau. It begins as a shallow gorge and -gradually increases in depth until it reaches the Colorado River itself, -at a depth of more than 4,000 feet below the surface. Vast amphitheaters -are found in its walls and titanic pinnacles rise from its depths. One -Christmas day I waded up this creek. It was one of the most delightful -walks of my life, from a land of flowers to a land of snow. - -To the west of the Kanab Plateau are the Uinkaret Mountains—an immense -group of volcanic cones upon a plateau. Some of these cones stand very -near the brink of the Grand Canyon and from one of them a flood of -basalt was poured into the canyon itself. Not long ago geologically, but -rather long when reckoned in years of human history, this flood of lava -rolled down the canyon for more than _fifty miles_, filling it to the -depth of _two_ or _three hundred feet_ and diverting the course of the -river against one or the other of its banks. Many of the cones are of -red cinder, while sometimes the lava is piled up into huge mountains -which are covered with forest. To the west of the Uinkaret Mountains -spreads the great Shiwits Plateau, crowned by Mount Dellenbough. - -Past the south end of these plateaus runs the Colorado River; southward -through Marble Canyon and in the Grand Canyon, then northwestward past -the Kaibab and Shinumo Canyon, then southwestward past the Kanab -Plateau, Uinkaret Mountains to the southernmost point of the Shiwits -Plateau, and then northwestward to the Grand Wash Cliffs. Its distance -in this course is little more than 300 miles—but the 300 miles of river -are set on every side with cliffs, buttes, towers, pinnacles, -amphitheaters, caves, and terraces, exquisitely storm-carved and painted -in an endless variety of colors. - -The plateau to the south of the Grand Canyon, which we need not describe -in parts, is largely covered with a gigantic forest. There are many -volcanic mountains and many treeless valleys. In the high forest there -are beautiful glades with little stretches of meadow which are spread in -summer with a parterre of flowers of many colors. This upper region is -the garden of the world. When I was first there bear, deer, antelope, -and wild turkeys abounded, but now they are becoming scarce. Widely -scattered throughout the plateau are small canyons, each one a few miles -in length and a few hundred feet in depth. Throughout their course -cliff-dweller ruins are found. In the highland glades and along the -valley, pueblo ruins are widely scattered, but the strangest sights of -all the things due to prehistoric man are the cave dwellings that are -dug in the tops of cinder cones and the villages that were built in the -caves of volcanic cliffs. If now I have succeeded in creating a picture -of the plateau I will attempt a brief description of the canyon. - - [Illustration: Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody. - Bissell Point and Colorado River.] - - - Marble Canyon - -Above the Paria the great river runs down a canyon which it has cut -through one plateau. On its way it flows with comparative quiet through -beautiful scenery, with glens that are vast amphitheaters which often -overhang great springs and ponds of water deeply embosomed in the -cliffs. From the southern escarpment of this plateau the great Colorado -Plateau rises by a comparatively gentle acclivity, and Marble Canyon -starts with walls but a few score feet in height until they reach an -altitude of about 5,000 feet. On the way the channel is cut into beds of -rock of lower geologic horizon, or greater geologic age. These rocks are -sandstones and limestones. Some beds are very hard, others are soft and -friable. The friable rocks wash out and the harder rocks remain -projecting from the walls, so that every wall presents a set of stony -shelves. These shelves rise along the wall toward the south as new -shelves set in from below. - -In addition to this shelving structure the walls are terraced and the -cliffs of the canyon are set back one upon the other. Then these canyon -walls are interrupted by side streams which themselves have carved -lateral canyons, some small, others large, but all deep. In these side -gorges the scenery is varied and picturesque; deep clefts are seen here -and there as you descend the river—clefts furnished with little streams -along which mosses and other plants grow. At low water the floor of the -great canyon is more or less exposed, and where it flows over limestone -rocks beautiful marbles are seen in many colors; saffron, pink, and blue -prevail. Sometimes a façade or wall appears rising vertically from the -water for thousands of feet. At last the canyon abruptly ends in a -confusion of hills beyond which rise towering cliffs, and the group of -hills are nestled in the bottom of a valley-like region which is -surrounded by cliffs more than a mile in altitude. - - - The Grand Canyon - -From here on for many miles the whole character of the canyon changes. -First a dike appears; this is a wall of black basalt crossing the river; -it is of lava thrust up from below through a huge crevice broken in the -rock by earthquake agency. On the east the Little Colorado comes; here -it is a river of salt water, and it derives its salt a few miles up the -stream. The main Colorado flows along the eastern and southern wall. -Climbing this for a few hundred feet you may look off toward the -northwest and gaze at the cliffs of the Kaibab Plateau. - -This is the point where we built a trail down a side canyon where Mr. -Walcott was to make his winter residence and study of the region; it is -very complicated and exhibits a vast series of unconformable rocks of -high antiquity. These lower rocks are of many colors; in large part they -are shales. The region, which appears to be composed of bright-colored -hills washed naked by the rain, is, in fact, beset with a multitude of -winding canyons with their own precipitous walls. It is a region of many -canyons in the depths of the Grand Canyon itself. - -In this beautiful region Mr. Walcott, reading the book of geology, lived -in a summerland during all of a long winter while the cliffs above were -covered with snow which prevented his egress to the world. His -companions, three young Mormons, longing for a higher degree of -civilization, gazed wistfully at the snow-clad barriers by which they -were inclosed. One was a draughtsman, another a herder of his stock, and -the third his cook. They afterward told me that it was a long winter of -homesickness, and that months dragged away as years, but Mr. Walcott -himself had the great book of geology to read, and to him it was a -winter of delight. - -A half dozen miles below the basaltic wall the river enters a channel -carved in 800 or 1,000 feet of dark gneiss of very hard rock. Here the -channel is narrow and very swift and beset with rapids and falls. On the -south and southwest the wall rises abruptly from the water to the summit -of the plateau for about 6,000 feet, but across the river on the north -and west mountains of gneiss and quartzites appear, sometimes rising to -the height of a thousand feet. These are mountains in the bottom of a -canyon. The buttes and plateaus of the inter-canyon region are composed -of shales, sandstones, and limestones, which give rise to vast -architectural shelving and to pinnacles and towers of gigantic -proportions, the whole embossed with a marvelously minute system of -fretwork carved by the artistic clouds. Looking beyond these mountains, -buttes, and plateaus vistas of the walls of the great plateau are seen. -From these walls project salients, and deep re-entrant angles appear. - -The whole scene is forever reminding you of mighty architectural -pinnacles and towers and balustrades and arches and columns with lattice -work and delicate carving. All of these architectural features are -sublime by titanic painting in varied hues—pink, red, brown, lavender, -gray, blue, and black. In some lights the saffron prevails, in other -lights vermilion, and yet in other lights the grays and blacks -predominate. At times, and perhaps in rare seasons, clouds and cloudlets -form in the canyon below and wander among the side canyons and float -higher and higher until they are dissolved in the upper air, or perhaps -they accumulate to hide great portions of the landscape. Then through -rifts in the clouds vistas of Wonderland are seen. Such is that portion -of the canyon around the great south bend of the Colorado River past the -point of the Kaibab Plateau. - - - As Seen by the Geologist - -In the last chapter of my book entitled “The Canyons of the Colorado” I -have described the Grand Canyon in the following terms: - -The Grand Canyon is a gorge 217 miles in length, through which flows a -great river with many storm-born tributaries. It has a winding way, as -rivers are wont to have. Its banks are vast structures of adamant, piled -up in forms rarely seen in the mountains. - -Down by the river the walls are composed of black gneiss, slates, and -schists, all greatly implicated and traversed by dikes of granite. Let -this formation be called the black gneiss. It is usually about 800 feet -in thickness. - -Then over the black gneiss are found 800 feet of quartzites, usually in -very thin beds of many colors, but exceedingly hard, and ringing under -the hammer like phonolite. These beds are dipping and unconformable with -the rocks above. While they make but 800 feet of the wall or less they -have a geologic thickness of 12,000 feet. Set up a row of books aslant; -it is ten inches from the shelf to the top of the line of books, but -there may be three feet of the books measured directly through the -leaves. So these quartzites are aslant, and though of great geologic -thickness they make but 800 feet of the wall. Your books may have -many-colored bindings and differ greatly in their contents; so these -quartzites vary greatly from place to place along the wall, and in many -places they entirely disappear. Let us call this formation the -variegated quartzite. - -Above the quartzites there are 500 feet of sandstones. They are of a -greenish hue, but are mottled with spots of brown and black by iron -stains. They usually stand in a bold cliff, weathered in alcoves. Let -this formation be called the cliff sandstone. - -Above the cliff sandstone there are 700 feet of bedded sandstones and -limestones, which are massive sometimes and sometimes broken into thin -strata. These rocks are often weathered in deep alcoves. Let this -formation be called the alcove sandstone. - -Over the alcove sandstone there are 1,600 feet of limestone, in many -places a beautiful marble, as in Marble Canyon. As it appears along the -Grand Canyon it is always stained a brilliant red, for immediately over -it there are thin seams of iron, and the storms have painted these -limestones with pigments from above. Altogether this is the red-wall -group. It is chiefly limestone. Let it be called the red-wall limestone. - -Above the red wall there are 800 feet of gray and bright red sandstone, -alternating in beds that look like vast ribbons of landscape. Let it be -called the banded sandstone. - -And over all, at the top of the wall, is the Aubrey limestone, 1,000 -feet in thickness. This Aubrey has much gypsum in it, great beds of -alabaster that are pure white in comparison with the great body of -limestone below. In the same limestone there are enormous beds of chert, -agates, and carnelians. This limestone is especially remarkable for its -pinnacles and towers. Let it be called the tower limestone. - -These are the elements with which the walls are constructed, from black -buttress below to alabaster tower above. All of these elements weather -in different forms and are painted in different colors, so that the wall -presents a highly complex façade. A wall of homogeneous granite, like -that in the Yosemite, is but a naked wall, whether it be 1,000 or 5,000 -feet high. Hundreds and thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when -they stand in a meaningless front. A mountain covered by pure snow -10,000 feet high has but little more effect on the imagination than a -mountain of snow 1,000 feet high—it is but more of the same thing—but a -façade of seven systems of rock has its sublimity multiplied sevenfold. - - [Illustration: A Panoramic View of the Canyon.] - -Consider next the horizontal elements of the Grand Canyon. The river -meanders in great curves, which are themselves broken into curves of -smaller magnitude. The streams that head far back in the plateau on -either side come down in gorges and break the wall into sections. Each -lateral canyon has a secondary system of laterals, and the secondary -canyons are broken by tertiary canyons; so the crags are forever -branching, like the limbs of an oak. That which has been described as a -wall is such only in its grand effect. In detail it is a series of -structures separated by a ramification of canyons, each having its own -walls. Thus, in passing down the canyon it seems to be inclosed by -walls, but oftener by salients—towering structures that stand between -canyons that run back into the plateau. Sometimes gorges of the second -or third order have met before reaching the brink of the Grand Canyon, -and then great salients are cut off from the wall and stand out as -buttes—huge pavilions in the architecture of the canyon. The scenic -elements thus described are fused and combined in very different ways. - - - Its Length - -We measured the length of the Grand Canyon by the length of the river -running through it, but the running extent of wall can not be measured -in this manner. In the black gneiss, which is at the bottom, the wall -may stand above the river for a few hundred yards or a mile or two; then -to follow the foot of the wall you must pass into a lateral canyon for a -long distance, perhaps miles, and then back again on the other side of -the lateral canyon; then along by the river until another lateral canyon -is reached, which must be headed in the black gneiss. So for a dozen -miles of river through the gneiss there may be a hundred miles of wall -on either side. Climbing to the summit of the black gneiss and following -the wall in the variegated quartzite, it is found to be stretched out to -a still greater length, for it is cut with more lateral gorges. In like -manner there is yet greater length of the mottled (or alcove) sandstone -wall, and the red wall is still farther stretched out in ever-branching -gorges. - -To make the distance for ten miles along the river by walking along the -top of the red wall it would be necessary to travel several hundred -miles. The length of the wall reaches its maximum in the banded -sandstone, which is terraced more than any of the other formations. The -tower limestone wall is less tortuous. To start at the head of the Grand -Canyon on one of the terraces of the banded sandstone and follow it to -the foot of the Grand Canyon, which by river is a distance of 217 miles, -it would be necessary to travel many thousand miles by the winding way; -that is, the banded wall is many thousand miles in length. - - - As Seen Traveling Down Stream - -For eight or ten miles below the mouth of the Little Colorado, the river -is in the variegated quartzites, and a wonderful fretwork of forms and -colors, peculiar to this rock, stretches back for miles to a labyrinth -of the red-wall cliff; then below, the black gneiss is entered and soon -has reached an altitude of 800 feet and sometimes more than 1,000 feet, -and upon this black gneiss all the other structures in their wonderful -colors are lifted. These continue for about seventy miles, when the -black gneiss below is lost, for the walls are dropped down by the West -Kaibab Fault and the river flows in the quartzites. - -Then for eighty miles the mottled (or alcove) sandstones are found in -the river bed. The course of the canyon is a little south of west and is -comparatively straight. At the top of the red-wall limestone there is a -broad terrace, two or three miles in width, composed of hills of -wonderful forms carved in the banded beds, and back of this is seen a -cliff in the tower limestone. Along the lower course of this stretch the -whole character of the canyon is changed by another set of complicating -conditions. We have now reached a region of volcanic activity. After the -canyons were cut nearly to their present depth, lavas poured out and -volcanoes were built on the walls of the canyon, but not in the canyon -itself, though at places rivers of molten rock rolled down the walls -into the Colorado. - -The canyon for the next eighty miles is a compound of that found where -the river is in the black gneiss and that found where the dead volcanoes -stand on the brink of the wall. In the first stretch, where the gneiss -is at the foundation, we have a great bend to the south, and in the last -stretch, where the gneiss is below and the dead volcanoes above, another -great southern detour is found. These two great beds are separated by -eighty miles of comparatively straight river. - -Let us call this first great bend the Kaibab reach of the canyon, and -the straight part the Kanab reach, for the Kanab Creek heads far off in -the plateau to the north and joins the Colorado at the beginning of the -middle stretch. The third great southern bend is the Shiwits stretch. -Thus there are three distinct portions of the Grand Canyon: The Kaibab -section, characterized more by its buttes and salients; the Kanab -section, characterized by its comparatively straight walls with -volcanoes on the brink, and the Shiwits section, which is broken into -great terraces with gneiss at the bottom and volcanoes at the top. - - - The Work of Erosion - -The erosion represented in the canyons, although vast, is but a small -part of the great erosion of the region, for between the cliffs blocks -have been carried away far superior in magnitude to those necessary to -fill the canyons. Probably there is no portion of the whole region from -which there have not been more than a thousand feet degraded, and there -are districts from which more than 30,000 feet of rock have been carried -away; altogether there is a district of country more than 200,000 square -miles in extent, from which, on the average, more than 6,000 feet have -been eroded. Consider a rock 200,000 square miles in extent and a mile -in thickness, against which the clouds have hurled their storms, and -beat it into sands, and the rills have carried the sands into the -creeks, and the creeks have carried them into the rivers, and the -Colorado has carried them into the sea. - -We think of the mountains as forming clouds about their brows, but the -clouds have formed the mountains. Great continental blocks are upheaved -from beneath the sea by internal geologic forces that fashion the earth. -Then the wandering clouds, the tempest-bearing clouds, the -rainbow-decked clouds, with mighty power and with wonderful skill, carve -out valleys and canyons and fashion hills and cliffs and mountains. The -clouds are the artists sublime. - - - Winter and Cloud Effects - -In winter some of the characteristics of the Grand Canyon are -emphasized. The black gneiss below, the variegated quartzite, and the -green or alcove sandstone form the foundation for the mighty red wall. -The banded sandstone entablature is crowned by the tower limestone. In -winter this is covered with snow. Seen from below, these changing -elements seem to graduate into the heavens, and no plane of demarcation -between wall and blue firmament can be seen. The heavens constitute a -portion of the façade and mount into a vast dome from wall to wall, -spanning the Grand Canyon with empyrean blue. So the earth and the -heavens are blended in one vast structure. - - [Illustration: Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody. - The Lower Gorge, Foot of Bright Angel Trail.] - -When the clouds play in the canyon, as they often do in the rainy -season, another set of effects is produced. Clouds creep out of canyons -and wind into other canyons. The heavens seem to be alive, not moving as -move the heavens over a plain, in one direction with the wind, but -following the multiplied courses of these gorges. In this manner the -little clouds seem to be individualized, to have wills and souls of -their own and to be going on diverse errands—a vast assemblage of -self-willed clouds faring here and there, intent upon purposes hidden in -their own breasts. In imagination the clouds belong to the sky, and when -they are in the canyon the skies come down into the gorges and cling to -the cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights, for the sky must -still be far away. Thus they lend infinity to the walls. - -You can not see the Grand Canyon in one view as if it were a changeless -spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have -to toil from month to month through its labyrinths. It is a region more -difficult to traverse than the Alps or the Himalayas, but if strength -and courage are sufficient for the task, by a year’s toil a concept of -sublimity can be obtained never again to be equaled on the hither side -of paradise. - - [Illustration: Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody. - On Grand View Point.] - - [Illustration: Uncaptioned vista] - - - - - THE GREATEST THING IN THE WORLD - BY CHARLES F. LUMMIS - - -“The greatest thing in the world.” That is a large phrase and an -over-worked one, and hardened travelers do not take it lightly upon the -tongue. Noticeably it is most glibly in use with those but lately, and -for the first time, wandered beyond their native state or county, and as -every province has its own local brag of biggest things, the too -credulous tourist will find a superlative everywhere. And superlatives -are unsafe without wide horizons of comparison. - -Yet in every sort there is, of course, somewhere “the biggest thing in -the world” of its kind. It is a good word, when spoken in season and not -abused in careless ignorance. - -I believe there is and can be no dispute that the term applies literally -to several things in the immediate region of the Grand Canyon of -Arizona. As I have more than once written (and it never yet has been -controverted), probably no other equal area on earth contains so many -supreme marvels of so many kinds—so many astounding sights, so many -masterpieces of Nature’s handiwork, so vast and conclusive an -encyclopedia of the world-building processes, so impressive monuments of -prehistoric man, so many triumphs of man still in the tribal relation—as -what I have called the Southwestern Wonderland. This includes a large -part of New Mexico and Arizona, the area which geographically and -ethnographically we may count as the Grand Canyon region. Let me mention -a few wonders: - -The largest and by far the most beautiful of all petrified forests, with -several hundred square miles whose surface is carpeted with agate chips -and dotted with agate trunks two to four feet in diameter; and just -across one valley a buried “forest” whose huge silicified—not -agatized—logs show their ends under fifty feet of sandstone. - -The largest natural bridge in the world—200 feet high, over 500 feet -span, and over 600 feet wide, up and down stream, and with an orchard on -its top and miles of stalactite caves under its abutments. - -The largest variety and display of geologically recent volcanic action -in North America; with 60-mile lava flows, 1,500-foot blankets of creamy -tufa cut by scores of canyons; hundreds of craters and thousands of -square miles of lava beds, basalt, and cinders, and so much “volcanic -glass” (obsidian) that it was the chief tool of the prehistoric -population. - -The largest and the most impressive villages of cave-dwellings in the -world, most of them already abandoned “when the world-seeking Genoese” -sailed. - -The peerless and many-storied cliff-dwellings—castles and forts and -homes in the face of wild precipices or upon their tops—an aboriginal -architecture as remarkable as any in any land. - -The twenty-six strange communal town republics of the descendants of the -“cliff-dwellers,” the modern Pueblos; some in fertile valleys, some -(like Acoma and Moki) perched on barren and dizzy cliff tops. The -strange dances, rites, dress, and customs of this ancient people who had -solved the problem of irrigation, 6-story house building, and clean -self-government, and even women’s rights—long before Columbus was born. - -The noblest Caucasian ruins in America, north of Mexico—the great stone -and adobe churches reared by Franciscan missionaries, near three -centuries ago, a thousand miles from the ocean, in the heart of the -Southwest. - -Some of the most notable tribes of savage nomads—like the Navajos, whose -blankets and silver work are pre-eminent, and the Apaches, who, man for -man, have been probably the most successful warriors in history. - -All these, and a great deal more, make the Southwest a wonderland -without a parallel. There are ruins as striking as the storied ones -along the Rhine, and far more remarkable. There are peoples as -picturesque as any in the Orient, and as romantic as the Aztecs and the -Incas of whom we have learned such gilded fables, and there are natural -wonders which have no peers whatever. - - - Of the Canyon, and Other Wonders - -At the head of the list stands the Grand Canyon of the Colorado; whether -it is the “greatest wonder of the world” depends a little on our -definition of “wonder.” Possibly it is no more wonderful than the fact -that so tiny a fraction of the people who confess themselves the -smartest in the world have ever seen it. As a people we dodder abroad to -see scenery incomparably inferior. - -But beyond peradventure it is the greatest chasm in the world, and the -most superb. Enough globe-trotters have seen it to establish that fact. -Many have come cynically prepared to be disappointed; to find it -overdrawn and really not so stupendous as something else. It is, after -all, a hard test that so be-bragged a wonder must endure under the -critical scrutiny of them that have seen the earth and the fullness -thereof. But I never knew the most self-satisfied veteran traveler to be -disappointed in the Grand Canyon, or to patronize it. On the contrary, -this is the very class of men who can best comprehend it, and I have -seen them fairly break down in its awful presence. - -I do not know the Himalayas except by photograph and the testimony of -men who have explored and climbed them, and who found the Grand Canyon -an absolutely new experience. But I know the American continents pretty -well, and have tramped their mountains, including the Andes—the next -highest mountains in the world, after half a dozen of the Himalayas—and -of all the famous quebradas of the Andes there is not one that would -count 5 per cent on the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. For all their -25,000-foot peaks, their blue-white glaciers, imminent above the bald -plateau, and green little bolsones (“pocket valleys”) of Chile, Peru, -Bolivia, and Ecuador; for all their tremendous active volcanoes, like -Saugay and Cotopaxi; for all an earthquake activity beside which the -“shake” at Charleston was mere paper-doll play; for all the steepest -gradients in the world (and Peru is the only place in the world where a -river falls 17,000 feet in 100 miles)—in all that marvelous 3,000-mile -procession of giantism there is not one canyon which any sane person -would for an instant compare with that titanic gash that the Colorado -has chiseled through a comparatively flat upland. Nor is there anything -remotely approaching it in all the New World. So much I can say at first -hand. As for the Old World, the explorer who shall find a gorge there -one-half as great will win undying fame. - -The quebrada of the Apu-Rimac is a marvel of the Andes, with its -vertiginous depths and its suspension bridge of wild vines. The Grand -Canyon of the Arkansas, in Colorado, is a noble little slit in the -mountains. The Franconia and White Mountain notches in New Hampshire are -beautiful. The Yosemite and the Yellowstone canyons surpass the world, -each in its way. But if all of these were hung up on the opposite wall -of the Grand Canyon from you the chances are fifty to one that you could -not tell t’other from which, nor any of them from the hundreds of other -canyons which rib that vast vertebrate gorge. If the falls of Niagara -were installed in the Grand Canyon between your visits and you knew it -by the newspapers—next time you stood on that dizzy rimrock you would -probably need good field-glasses and much patience before you could -locate that cataract which in its place looks pretty big. If Mount -Washington were plucked up bodily by the roots—not from where you see -it, but from sea-level—and carefully set down in the Grand Canyon, you -probably would not notice it next morning, unless its dull colors -distinguished it in that innumerable congress of larger and painted -giants. - -All this, which is literally true, is a mere trifle of what might be -said in trying to fix a standard of comparison for the Grand Canyon. But -I fancy there is no standard adjustable to the human mind. You may -compare all you will—eloquently and from wide experience, and at last -all similes fail. The Grand Canyon is just the Grand Canyon, and that is -all you can say. I never have seen anyone who was prepared for it. I -never have seen anyone who could grasp it in a week’s hard exploration; -nor anyone, except some rare Philistine, who could even think he had -grasped it. I have seen people rave over it; better people struck dumb -with it, even strong men who cried over it; but I have never yet seen -the man or woman that _expected_ it. - -It adds seriously to the scientific wonder and the universal -impressiveness of this unparalleled chasm that it is not in some -stupendous mountain range, but in a vast, arid, lofty floor of nearly -100,000 square miles—as it were, a crack in the upper story of the -continent. There is no preparation for it. Unless you had been told, you -would no more dream that out yonder amid the pines the flat earth is -slashed to its very bowels, than you would expect to find an iceberg in -Broadway. With a very ordinary running jump from the spot where you get -your first glimpse of the canyon you could go down 2,000 feet without -touching. It is sudden as a well. - -But it is no mere cleft. It is a terrific trough 6,000 to 7,000 feet -deep, ten to twenty miles wide, hundreds of miles long, peopled with -hundreds of peaks taller than any mountain east of the Rockies, yet not -one of them with its head so high as your feet, and all ablaze with such -color as no eastern or European landscape ever knew, even in the -Alpen-glow. And as you sit upon the brink the divine scene-shifters give -you a new canyon every hour. With each degree of the sun’s course the -great countersunk mountains we have been watching fade away, and new -ones, as terrific, are carved by the westering shadows. It is like a -dissection of the whole cosmogony. And the purple shadows, the dazzling -lights, the thunderstorms and snowstorms, the clouds and the rainbows -that shift and drift in that vast subterranean arena below your feet! -And amid those enchanted towers and castles which the vastness of the -scale leads you to call “rocks,” but which are in fact as big above the -river-bed as the Rockies from Denver, and bigger than Mount Washington -from Fabyan’s or the Glen! - -The Grand Canyon country is not only the hugest, but the most varied and -instructive example on earth of one of the chief factors of -earth-building—erosion. It is the mesa country—the Land of Tables. -Nowhere else on the footstool is there such an example of deep-gnawing -water or of water high-carving. The sandstone mesas of the Southwest, -the terracing of canyon walls, the castellation, battlementing, and -cliff-making, the cutting down of a whole landscape except its -precipitous islands of flat-topped rock, the thin lava table-cloths on -tables 100 feet high—these are a few of the things which make the -Southwest wonderful alike to the scientist and the mere sight-seer. - -That the canyon is not “too hard” is perhaps sufficiently indicated by -the fact that I have taken thither ladies and children and men in their -seventies, when the easiest way to get there was by a 70-mile stage -ride, and that at six years old my little girl walked all the way from -rim to bottom of canyon and came back on a horse the same day, and was -next morning ready to go on a long tramp along the rim. - - [Illustration: Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody. - The North Wall from Grand Scenic Divide.] - - [Illustration: Uncaptioned vista] - - - - - INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS - - - Preliminary - -There is only one way by which to directly reach the Grand Canyon of -Arizona, and that is via the Santa Fe (The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe -Railway System). - -There are three ways of reaching the Canyon from the Santa Fe—rail from -Williams, private conveyance from Flagstaff and Peach Springs. - -The route from Flagstaff is not available in winter. The Peach Springs -route is open in winter, but now little used. The bulk of the travel is -via Williams, sixty-five miles north to Bright Angel—open all the year. - - - Three Gateways - -There are but three points from which an easy descent may be made of the -south wall to the granite gorge of the Grand Canyon: - -1. At Grand View, down Berry’s (Grand View) or Hance’s (Red Canyon) -trails. - -2. At Bright Angel, down Bright Angel Trail. - -3. At Bass’ Camp, down Mystic Spring Trail. - -While the canyon may be reached over trails at other places outside of -the district named (such as Lee’s Ferry Trail, by wagon from Winslow; -Moki Indian Trail, by way of Little Colorado Canyon; and Diamond Creek -road to Colorado River from Peach Springs station), most tourists prefer -the Bright Angel, Grand View, and Bass’ Camp routes, because of the -superior facilities and views there offered. The Peach Springs route is -the only other one now used by the public to any extent. - -It is near Grand View that Marble Canyon ends and the Grand Canyon -proper begins. Northward, a few miles away, is the mouth of the Little -Colorado Canyon. Here the granite gorge is first seen. - -Bright Angel is approximately in the center, and Bass’ Camp at the -western end of the granite gorge. By wagon road it is eighteen miles -from Bright Angel east to Grand View, and twenty-three miles west to -Bass’ Camp. - -In a nutshell, the Grand Canyon at Grand View is accounted most -sublime—a scene of wide outlooks and brilliant hues; at Bright Angel, -deepest and most impressive—a scene that awakens the profoundest -emotions; at Bass’ Camp, the most varied—a scene of striking contrasts -in form and color. - -Each locality has its special charm. All three should be visited, if -time permits, as only by long observation can one gain even a -superficial knowledge of what the Grand Canyon is. To know it intimately -requires a longer stay and more careful study. - - - The Ride from Williams - -Because of recent improvements in service the Grand Canyon of Arizona -may now be visited, either in summer or winter, with reasonable comfort -and without any hardship. No one need be deterred by fear of inclement -weather or a tedious stage ride. The trip is entirely feasible for the -average traveler every day in the year. - -Leaving the Santa Fe transcontinental train at Williams, Arizona, -passengers change in same depot to a local train of the Grand Canyon -Railway, which leaves Williams daily, and arrives at destination after a -three hours’ run. - -Williams is a busy town of 1,500 inhabitants, 378 miles west of -Albuquerque, on the Santa Fe. Here are located large sawmills, smelters, -numerous well-stocked stores, and railroad division buildings. Prior to -the disastrous fire in July, 1901, there were several excellent hotels. -The one not destroyed affords good accommodations; it has been recently -enlarged and otherwise improved. - -There is usually ample time at Williams, between trains, for the ascent -of Bill Williams Mountain, which rises near the town to a height of -9,000 feet. Tourists will find the trip thoroughly enjoyable. It can be -made in five hours on horseback in perfect safety. The trail is an easy -one, first leading through a gently sloping path of pines, then steeply -up to the wind-swept summit alongside a pretty stream bordered by -thickets of quaking aspens. Chimney Rock, with its eagle’s nest, is a -noteworthy rock formation. On the summit is buried the historic pioneer -scout, Bill Williams. From his resting-place there is a wide outlook, -embracing, on clear days, the wall of the Grand Canyon, Verde River, -Chino Valley, Jerome, Hell Canyon, Seligman, Ash Fork, and many -neighboring peaks. - -The railroad track to the canyon is remarkably smooth for a new line. It -is built across a slightly rolling mesa, in places thickly wooded, in -others open. The snow-covered San Francisco Peaks are on the eastern -horizon. Kendricks, Sitgreaves, and Williams mountains are also visible. -Red Butte, thirty miles distant, is a prominent local landmark. Before -the terminus is reached the train climbs a long, high ridge and enters -Coconino Forest, which resembles a natural park. The route here is amid -fragrant pines, over low hills, and along occasional gulches and -“washes.” Taken under the favorable conditions which generally prevail -at this high altitude, the journey is a novelty and a delight. - - - At Destination - -The hotel at head of Bright Angel Trail is reached early in the evening. -The tourist then finds himself on the verge of a high precipice, from -which is obtained by moonlight a magnificent view of the opposite wall -and of the intervening crags, towers, and slopes. The suddenness, the -surprise, the revelation come as a fitting climax to a unique trip. -After nightfall the air becomes cold, for here you are 7,000 feet above -the sea; yet the absence of humidity, peculiar to these high altitudes, -makes the chill less penetrating than on lower levels. By day, in the -sunshine, there is usually a genial warmth—then overcoats, gloves, and -wraps are laid aside. - - - Bright Angel Hotel - -The Bright Angel Hotel is managed by Mr. M. Buggeln, who also controls -the stage line, trail stock, guides, etc. The hotel comprises a -combination log and frame structure of eight rooms, with three frame -annexes containing forty-six sleeping rooms, and (for summer use) -several rows of tents, all clustered on the rim and surrounded by pines -and spruces. Each room in the annexes has one or two beds, a stove, -dressing table, and Navajo rugs. In the log-cabin part of the main -edifice are two large rooms. One is used for reception purposes, being -warmed by means of an old-fashioned fireplace and tastefully carpeted -with Indian rugs, also furnished with capacious rocking chairs and a -piano; the other of these two rooms is for the office. - -Good meals are prepared by expert cooks and served in a pleasant -dining-room. In a word, the hotel facilities are good, far better than -one might expect to find for the reasonable rate charged. There is no -“roughing it”; everything is homelike and comfortable. One must not, -however, expect all the city luxuries. A telephone and telegraph line -directly connects the hotel with the outer world at Williams. - - Note.—A fine modern hotel of fifty rooms, with cottage annexes, to be - known as Bright Angel Tavern, will be built in this vicinity during - 1903 and managed by Mr. Fred Harvey. It will be a permanent affair and - will provide all the latest conveniences. - -While one ought to remain at least a week, a stop-over of three days -from the transcontinental trip will allow practically two days at the -canyon. One full day should be devoted to an excursion down Bright Angel -Trail, and the other to walks and drives along the rim. Another day on -the rim—making a four-days’ stop-over in all—will enable visitors to get -more satisfactory views of this stupendous wonder. - - - Down Bright Angel Trail - -The trail here is perfectly safe and is generally open the year round. -In midwinter it is liable to be closed for a few days at the top by -snow, but such blockade is only temporary. It reaches from the hotel -four miles to the top of the granite wall immediately overlooking the -Colorado River. At this point the river is 1,200 feet below, while the -hotel on the rim is 4,300 feet above. The trip is commonly made on -horseback, accompanied by a guide; charges for trail stock and services -of guide are moderate. A strong person, accustomed to mountain climbing, -can make the round trip on foot in one day, by starting early enough; -but the average traveler will soon discover that a horse is a necessity, -especially for the upward climb. - -Eight hours are required for going down and coming back, allowing two -hours for lunch, rest, and sight-seeing. Those wishing to reach the -river leave the main trail at Indian Garden Spring and follow the -downward course of Willow and Pipe creeks. Owing to the abrupt descent -from this point, part of the side trail must be traversed on foot. -Provision is made for those wishing to camp out at night on the river’s -edge. - -The famous guide, John Hance, is now located at Bright Angel. - - - What to Bring - -If much tramping is done, stout, thick shoes should be provided. Ladies -will find that short walking skirts are a convenience; divided skirts -are preferable, but not essential, for the horseback journey down the -zigzag trail. Traveling caps and (in summer) broad-brimmed straw hats -are useful toilet adjuncts. Otherwise ordinary clothing will suffice. A -good field glass and camera should be brought along. - - [Illustration: Bright Angel Hotel.] - -The round-trip ticket rate, Williams to Grand Canyon and return, is only -$6.50. Adding $6 for two days’ stay at Canyon Hotel, $1 for part of a -day at hotel in Williams, $1.50 for probable proportion of cost of -guide, $3 for trail stock, and the total necessary expense of the three -days’ stop-over is about $18 for one person; each additional day only -adds $3 to the cost for hotel. - -Stop-overs will be granted at Williams on railroad and Pullman tickets -if advance application is made to train and Pullman conductors. Trunks -may be stored in the station at Williams free of charge by arrangement -with ticket agent. - - - Grand View - -Grand View (previously mentioned) may be reached in summer by private -conveyance from Flagstaff, a distance of seventy-five miles; or at any -time of the year by stage from Bright Angel, sixteen miles along the -rim. The rate for round trip, Bright Angel to Grand View, is $2.50 to $5 -each person, according to size of party. While Flagstaff is an -interesting place to visit—with its near-by cliff and cave dwellings and -San Francisco Peaks—and the trip thence to the Grand Canyon is a novel -one, distance and time are such that most travelers prefer to go in by -railroad from Williams. - -Grand View Hotel is a large, rustic structure, built near the head of -Berry’s Trail and about three miles from Hance’s Trail, in the midst of -tall pines and overlooking the mighty bend of the Colorado. This is the -point to which visitors were conducted in the days of the old stage line -from Flagstaff. - -It is noted for its wide views of the Coconino Forest and Painted -Desert, as well as for the beautiful forms and color of the canyon -itself. A favorite trip here is to go down one trail and up the other. -The hotel accommodations are quite good; capacity, forty guests; rate, -$3 per day. - - - Bass’ Camp - -At the western end of the granite gorge is Mystic Spring Trail, an easy -route down to the Colorado River and up the other side to Dutton’s Point -and Powell’s Plateau. The magnificent panorama eastward from Havasupai -Point takes in fifty miles of the canyon, while westward is the unique, -table-like formation which characterizes the lower reaches of the river. -The views from both rims are pronounced by noted artists and explorers -to be unequaled. - -Present accommodations at Havasupai Hotel (Bass’ Camp), near head of -this trail, are fairly good, consisting of a cabin, several tents, and -good trail stock; wholesome meals are served in comfortable style. A new -hotel is to be built here during 1903. Bass’ Camp is now reached by -stage from Coconino, a station on the Grand Canyon Railway, or one may -take a team direct from Bright Angel. - -A visit should be made to the Havasupai Indian village in Cataract -Canyon. Any bona fide tourist can procure an introductory letter from -the railroad agent at Williams or Grand Canyon. On presenting same to -the U. S. Indian agent at Supai, permission will be granted to enter the -reservation. This is an unique trip of about forty miles, first by wagon -across a timbered plateau, then on horseback down precipitous Topocobya -Trail, along the rocky floors of Topocobya and Cataract canyons, deep in -the earth, to a place of gushing springs, green fields, and enchanting -waterfalls. Here live the Havasupai Indians, one of the most interesting -tribes in Arizona. The round trip from Bright Angel or Bass’ Camp is -made in three or four days at an expense of $35 to $50 each for a party -of three persons. - - - Peach Springs Route - -The trip in winter from Peach Springs station down to the Colorado -River, through Diamond Creek Canyon, is most enjoyable. Owing to the low -altitude here (4,780 feet at Peach Springs and approximately 2,000 feet -at the river) the air is usually balmy from November to April; in summer -the heat is a considerable drawback. - -A journey of but twelve miles leads you through a miniature Grand Canyon -with scenery increasingly sublime. On either side are abrupt walls and -wonderfully suggestive formations—castles, domes, minarets. On your -left, glancing backward, is an exact reproduction of Westminster Abbey. - -This comparatively easy jaunt brings you by team to the very brink of -the swift-rolling Colorado, whereas by the other Grand Canyon gateways -you are landed on the rim and must go down thousands of feet by a steep -trail. The outlook here is restricted to the river itself and the great -walls rising precipitously from its banks—a scene well worth while, but -not so impressive as the wide sweep of the canyon visible from the rim. - -Following Diamond Creek to its source you may walk along the bed of the -stream between walls thousands of feet high and glistening in the white -sunlight as if varnished. The upper part of Diamond Creek is a veritable -terrace of fern bowers, luxuriant vegetation, crystal cascades, and -sequestered meadow parks. - - - Flagstaff and Vicinity - -The town itself is an interesting place, prettily situated in the heart -of the San Francisco uplift and surrounded by a pine forest. - -Its hotels, business houses, lumber mills, and residences denote thrift. -On a neighboring hill is the Lowell Observatory, noted for its many -contributions to astronomical science. - - [Illustration: San Francisco Peaks.] - -Eight miles southwest from Flagstaff—reached by a pleasant drive along a -level road through tall pines—is Walnut Canyon, a rent in the earth -several hundred feet deep and three miles long, with steep terraced -walls of limestone. Along the shelving terraces, under beetling -projections of the strata, are scores of quaint cliff dwellings, the -most famous group of its kind in this region. The larger abodes are -divided into several compartments by cemented walls, many parts of which -are still intact. It is believed that these cliff dwellers were of the -same stock as the Pueblo Indians of to-day and that they lived here -about 800 years ago. - -Nine miles from Flagstaff and only half a mile from the old stage road -to the Grand Canyon, upon the summit of an extinct crater, the -remarkable ruins of the cave-dwellers may be seen. - -The magnificent San Francisco Peaks, visible from every part of the -country within a radius of a hundred miles, lie just north of Flagstaff. -There are three peaks which form one mountain. From Flagstaff a road has -been constructed up Humphrey’s Peak, whose summit is 12,750 feet above -sea level. It is a good mountain road, and the entire distance from -Flagstaff is only about ten miles. The trip to the summit and back is -easily made in one day. - - - Announcement - -The Santa Fe has published a new and beautiful book on the Grand Canyon. -It contains articles by Hamlin Garland, Harriet Monroe, Robert Brewster -Stanton, Chas. S. Gleed, John L. Stoddard, Charles Dudley Warner, R. D. -Salisbury, “Fitz Mac,” Nat M. Brigham, Joaquin Miller, Edwin Burritt -Smith, David Starr Jordan, C. E. Beecher, Henry P. Ewing, and Thomas -Moran, as well as the authors represented in this pamphlet. The book has -more than a hundred pages, illustrated with half-tones and portraits; -the cover is from a painting of the Canyon by Thomas Moran, and is -lithographed in seven colors. It will be forwarded on receipt of fifty -cents. - -A beautiful and unique color picture of the Grand Canyon, mounted to -show all its colors as in nature, may be had for twenty-five cents. - - Address W. J. BLACK, - Gen’l Passenger Agent, A., T. & S. F. Ry., CHICAGO. - - Ad. 71—2-3-03. 10M. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - ---Retained publication information from the printed exemplar (this eBook - is in the public domain in the country of publication.) - ---Only in the text versions, delimited italicized text with - _underscores_. - ---Silently corrected several typos. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Titan of Chasms, by -C. A. Higgins and John Wesley Powell and Charles F. 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