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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Tea-Blending as a Fine Art, by Joseph M. Walsh
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Tea-Blending as a Fine Art
-
-
-Author: Joseph M. Walsh
-
-
-
-Release Date: October 14, 2015 [eBook #50207]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEA-BLENDING AS A FINE ART***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed Proofreading
-Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
-Internet Archive (https://archive.org)
-
-
-
-Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
- file which includes the original illustrations.
- See 50207-h.htm or 50207-h.zip:
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/50207/50207-h/50207-h.htm)
- or
- (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/50207/50207-h.zip)
-
-
- Images of the original pages are available through
- Internet Archive. See
- https://archive.org/details/teablendingasfin00wals
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
- Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
-
- Text enclosed by tilde characters is in bold face (~bold~).
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Tea Hills of China.]
-
-
-
-TEA-BLENDING AS A FINE ART
-
-by
-
-JOSEPH M. WALSH,
-
-Author of
-Tea
-Its History and Mystery.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-“THE CUP THAT CHEERS BUT NOT INEBRIATES.”--Cowper.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Philadelphia:
-Published by the Author.
-1896.
-
-Copyright
-By
-Joseph M. Walsh.
-1896.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
- Pages.
-
- I.--INTRODUCTION 7-11
-
- II.--CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION OF TEAS 13-36
-
- III.--ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS 37-44
-
- IV.--ADULTERATION AND DETECTION 45-49
-
- V.--ART OF BLENDING TEAS 51-91
-
- VI.--ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA 93-104
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: (Branch of Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-
-
-PART I.
-
-INTRODUCTION.
-
-
-There is no article handled by the grocer which demands greater
-attention, engages more of his time, or has a more important bearing
-upon the success of his business than Tea, as it stands in many
-respects far ahead of all the other commodities in commanding and
-maintaining patronage, as well as in attracting and retaining trade
-for numerous other articles, and at the same time yielding a larger
-margin of profit to the dealer. Gain being the fundamental object of
-all business transactions, and as tea to the grocer plays such an
-essential part in determining this profit, we may be excused if, in
-considering the article from a purely practical standpoint, we urge
-the relation which it has to the success of the dealer, and who, as
-a general rule, experiences much more difficulty in the judicious
-selection of his Tea than in any other staple he trades in. The cause
-of this difficulty is obvious to dealers in Tea in general, being
-entirely due to the numerous varieties and almost innumerable grades,
-flavors and characters of the commodity with which he is confronted and
-to be selected from in order to satisfy the diversity of tastes and
-various preferences to be catered to in order to please each individual
-taste and preference. It therefore requires no ordinary skill or brief
-experience to make the proper selection or combination to suit the
-consumer under these trying circumstances.
-
-The acquisition of such skill or knowledge, for all practical purposes,
-is not, however, quite as difficult as is supposed by many dealers, it
-being fairly obtained by an intelligent study of the leading varieties
-and grades most in demand in the country or section of consumption, in
-addition to a few simple and inexpensive experiments by the dealer in
-order to familiarize himself with the leading characters and values
-of the different varieties, grades and flavors of the Teas best
-adapted to each particular class or section of the country in which
-he may be doing business. Little is known, comparatively, in this
-country particularly, of the art or principle of blending or “mixing”
-of Teas. The American dealer and consumer alike being averse to the
-practice as a general rule, regarding it as about on a parity with
-the other too numerous forms of adulteration and sophistication now
-in vogue, not only in the countries of consumption, but also in those
-of production. Such objections, however, are entirely erroneous, as
-it is an acknowledged fact that a combination of different varieties
-of wheat make better flour, the same being true of coffee and many
-other staples of diet and drink, so that the practice of blending
-Teas for the consumer, if properly understood and skillfully and
-judiciously performed, would prove a more satisfactory one to the
-consumer, and at the same time a more profitable one to the dealer.
-The object of blending being, not as the Tea-using public imagines to
-lower the standard or reduce the cost at the expense of quality, but
-to produce a measurably better Tea and obtain a fuller and heavier
-liquor in addition to a much finer and more desirable flavor than
-that yielded by any single variety when used alone. _A Tea, in short,
-giving better satisfaction to the consumer at a more moderate price,
-and at the same time allowing a better margin of profit to the dealer
-without lowering his standard of quality._ To illustrate, a dealer
-may already be selling a Tea to his customers, possessing a pleasing
-and suitable flavor, but be lacking in body or too light in liquor,
-whereas by his adding to it a small proportion of one or two other
-varieties possessing these requisite properties the defect is easily
-and inexpensively remedied, and a fuller-liquied, heavier-bodied,
-richer-flavored infusion is produced; the drawing and drinking
-qualities of the Tea being improved all round without extra cost to the
-dealer or increase of price to the consumer. It must therefore follow
-that by the skillful and judicious mixing or blending of a number of
-Teas, each differing in variety or grade, a more uniform, pleasing and
-palatable Tea, that is, one richer in liquor, heavier in body and more
-aromatic in flavor, can be produced by this now acknowledged principle
-at a more moderate cost to dealer and consumer than can otherwise be
-obtained from any single variety or grade of Tea.
-
-The idea of blending Teas originally arose from the experience
-incidentally gained by some old and life-long Tea dealers, that a
-beverage richer in liquor, more pleasing in flavor, more satisfactory
-in price to the consumer and less costly to the dealer, could be
-produced from a number of the different varieties or grades when
-skillfully amalgamated or judiciously combined than could otherwise
-be obtained from any single sort when used alone. No sooner was
-this experience confirmed than the “mixing” or blending of Teas was
-generally resorted to by many of those who had the dispensing of the
-commodity to the public. But while some dealers had a marked success
-in this branch of the Tea business from the start, others again who
-attempted to practice it failed completely in their efforts to produce
-any satisfactory results to themselves or their customers, the end
-accomplished being instead of an improvement an injury and detriment to
-the quality and value of the Teas so combined, more often to such an
-extent that the single and regular variety of Tea in demand would have
-pleased better at less labor, time and cost to the dealer. The cause of
-this failure was, however, due entirely and alone to the want of that
-necessary training, experience or intelligent knowledge which would
-enable the unskilled blender to understand the peculiar characteristics
-and affinities of the different varieties and various grades of the
-Teas which are improved by combination, and their component parts, as
-well as to avoid those which are deteriorated by the amalgamation.
-The knowledge and skill required for this very particular and precise
-branch of the Tea business being only attained in its perfection by
-numerous tests and constant experiments, which are best performed by
-the admixture of from two to five--or more in many instances--small
-samples of Tea differing, frequently materially, in variety, character
-and quality, and alternately changing, altering and substituting the
-varieties and proportions of the same until the dealer has finally
-succeeded in producing a Tea unique in character, identified with
-himself, and differing in every respect from that of any Tea offered
-or sold by his competitors, the liquor, flavor and aroma of which
-will prove more pleasing and satisfactory in quality and price to his
-patrons, and at a more moderate cost to himself.
-
-Time and experience have proved beyond question that skillful and
-judicious tea blending will be found to amply repay for all the
-study, labor and expense bestowed on it by the dealer, as the
-chief and only difficulty existing in the art lies in the fact of
-first finding a combination or combinations that will please the
-majority of consumers. But it is an egregious mistake to imagine
-that the successful or profitable blending of teas consists solely
-in the indiscriminate or injudicious heaping together carelessly
-and indifferently of two or more varieties or grades of tea in one
-homogeneous mass without the slightest regard to quantity, quality,
-affinity, affiliation or assimilation of leaf, liquor, character
-or flavor of the component parts. While on the contrary the art or
-principle consists in the proper combining of two or more different
-varieties or grades of tea intended to form the combination on an at
-least intelligent or judicious, if not scientific manner, so as to
-yield a unique or particular tea, of uniform quality, strength, flavor
-and pungency, at a given price, being at the same time pleasing and
-satisfactory to the average consumer, and maintaining its standard of
-quality at all times and under all circumstances.
-
-But while it may be admitted that it is difficult to master the art
-of successful tea blending thoroughly without the serving of an
-apprenticeship to the business, and that the combinations that may be
-found in it are almost kaleidoscopic in their range, still even the
-veriest novice need not spoil good tea by injudicious mixing, as all
-that is required is a little study and a few simple rules carefully
-followed, although these cannot be substituted entirely for years of
-practical experience in such a difficult and at the present time most
-essential branch of the tea business, but will nevertheless prevent any
-serious error, and at the same time insure a fair measure of success to
-the most inexperienced in the art.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: (Chinese Tea Garden.)]
-
-
-
-
-PART II.
-
-CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION OF TEAS.
-
-
-The Teas of commerce are classified as China, Japan, India, Ceylon
-and Java Teas, but are generally divided into Green and Black Teas,
-under which terms they are best known to the public. They are again
-sub-divided into numerous varieties and grades, with names derived
-from the districts of production or indicative of their age, make or
-quality, these numerous applications being almost entirely of Chinese
-origin.
-
-[Illustration: (China Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-CHINA TEAS
-
-Are divided into Black and Green, the former comprising Oolongs,
-Congous, Souchongs and Scented Teas, the latter including Imperials,
-Gunpowders, Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankay or Hyson-skin Teas.
-
-[Illustration: _a_--Firsts. _b_--Seconds. _c_--Thirds. _d_--Fourths.
-
-(Black Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-OOLONG TEAS
-
-Are sub-divided into Ankois, Amoys, Foochows, Formosas, Saryune and
-Pekoe-Oolongs, grading from lowest to highest in the order named.
-
-~Ankoi Oolong~--Is a doubtful species of the genus tea and said to
-be prepared solely from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling but
-widely distinct from those of the true tea plant. The leaf is rough and
-coarse, reddish-black in color, indifferently prepared, and ragged in
-general appearance, while the liquor is dark-brown, oily or earthy in
-flavor and bitterly astringent to the taste. It is generally used for
-mixing with low-grade Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy
-flavor, and should be avoided by the dealer altogether.
-
-~Amoy Oolongs~--Embrace Kokew, Mohea and Ningyong Oolong teas and
-are fairly good teas for blending purposes, many of them drawing
-and drinking exceedingly well in the cup. The leaf, while large and
-somewhat coarse in appearance, is well prepared as a rule, while the
-liquor is clear, strong and frequently pungent. The poorer grades,
-however, possess a wild or herby flavor, strongly objected to by the
-majority of tea consumers.
-
-~Foochow Oolong~--Ranks among the best of the black teas of China. The
-leaf of the finer grades being black and silky in appearance, rich and
-mellow in liquor and fragrant in flavor, while the medium and lower
-grades are somewhat larger and looser in make they possess splendid cup
-qualities, making the most suitable foundation for all blends in this
-country, being useful and serviceable for the purpose.
-
-~Formosa Oolong~--Is unique in leaf, liquor and flavor, differing
-widely in character and flavor from the former varieties. They possess
-a rich, fragrant aroma, the leaf being very pleasing in the hand,
-evenly curled and crapy in texture, and impart tone and character to
-any combination in which they may be introduced.
-
-~Saryune and Pekoe Oolongs~--Are very rare sorts in this market, the
-latter deriving its trade-name from being liberally sprinkled with
-Pekoe-tipped leaves. They are somewhat large and bold in style, evenly
-curled and pleasing in appearance. The infusion being dark brown in
-color, heavy and full in body and very fragrant in flavor.
-
-
-CONGOU TEAS.
-
-Congou Teas are grown principally in the Bohea hills in China, and are
-known to trade in this country as English Breakfast Teas. They are
-divided into Kaisow or Red-leaf and Moning or Black-leaf Teas, and are
-a distinct variety differing in color, liquor and flavor from the
-Oolong sorts.
-
-~Kaisow~--or Red-leaf Congous, comprise, Chingwos, Seumoos, Suey-kuts,
-Saryunes, Sin-chunes, Cheong-soo, Cheong-lok, So-how and Yung-how.
-The leaf is reddish-black in color, well and firmly made; the liquor
-rich-red or wine-color, and flavor pungent but pleasing to the taste.
-Their special feature is their delicate and to a high degree fragrant
-flavor, which they impart to other Teas in combination, provided the
-others are not too strong or coarse.
-
-~Moning~--or Black-leaf Congous include Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oonams,
-Oopacks, Kintucks, Kee-muns, Kiukangs, Panyongs, Paklins and
-Paklums, and are black in color, stylish in make; the finer grades
-being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The infusion is also dark-red or
-wine-colored, but delicate and aromatic, making very useful Teas for
-blending purposes, combining advantageously with any and all the other
-varieties.
-
-
-SOUCHONG TEAS
-
-Are among the finest and richest of the Black Tea sorts of China,
-but are limited in supply, being chiefly prepared from the youngest
-leaves of the earlier pickings. They are known to trade as Lapsing,
-Padrae, Pekoe, Tonquam, Canton and Oolong-Souchongs. The leaf is long,
-flat, handsome and “crapy” in texture, finely and artistically curled,
-being only lightly fired. They yield a rich wine-colored liquor, with
-a fragrant flavor entirely peculiar to themselves, and described as
-“tarry” in trade, which, when not too pronounced, adds rather than
-detracts from their value. The product of the later pickings are of
-less strength and flavor, but are still smooth and pleasing in liquor
-and flavor, making very serviceable teas for mixing owing to their
-general intrinsic properties.
-
-
-SCENTED TEAS
-
-Form a special class of the Chinese product, and comprise Foochow,
-Canton and Macao Scented Teas. They are sub-divided into Capers,
-Pekoes, Pouchongs, Orange, Flowery and Pouchong Pekoes, and are very
-fragrant, being highly scented with the leaves, flowers, blossoms and
-roots of other plants, such as that of the Iris, Jessamine, Gardenia,
-Chloranthus and Oleofragrans. They are principally prepared from the
-largest but most succulent leaves of the first pickings and cured by a
-series of brisk firings and rollings. The dried leaf is finely made,
-long and evenly folded, and the infusion is wine-colored, piquant
-and aromatic, from which fact consumers not accustomed to their use
-erroneously imagine that they are much stronger and more exciting than
-the Oolong and Green Teas sorts, and should be used only very sparingly
-in blending.
-
-~Caper~--Is so termed from its small, round leaf resembling capers, and
-is prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the tea plant.
-The infusion is of a rich wine-color, pungent and aromatic in flavor,
-forming what is termed a bouquet.
-
-~Pekoe~--Signifies in Chinese “White down,” applied to the whitish
-or downy substance at the end of the leaves. It is usually prepared
-from the young leaf buds just expanding, and is a very much overrated
-variety.
-
-~Pouchong~--Is a bold, rough-looking leaf, dull black in color and
-peculiar in scent, the latter being imparted to it by the admixture of
-the seeds of the Chulan flower.
-
-~Orange Pekoe~--Is a long, flat, even-leaf tea, jet black in color and
-containing yellowish, downy tops at the ends, from which it derives its
-trade name.
-
-~Flowery Pekoe~--Is a smaller but more evenly-folded leaf,
-olive-colored with ends ornamented with whitish or velvety tips, being
-also very highly scented with the flowers or blossoms of other plants.
-
-In some of the Chinese districts the scenting material is added to
-the tea during the firing process and afterward separated by sifting,
-but is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is
-prepared and ready for packing. It is spread over the tip of the tea
-and allowed to remain there for at least a day, or until it becomes
-strongly impregnated with their moisture, and then removed, the
-duration depending in a great measure on the character of the scent
-employed.
-
-[Illustration: _a_--Gunpowder. _b_--Young Hyson. _c_--Imperial.
-_d_--Hyson. _e_--Twankey.
-
-(Green Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-GREEN TEAS
-
-Include Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tayshings and Pingsueys,
-district names, and grading in the order named.
-
-~Moyune~--Is the most valuable intrinsically and commercially, being
-far superior to all the others in make, color, draw and drink. The leaf
-is firmly rolled, natural green in color and extremely uniform in
-appearance, while the liquor is clear, brisk and pungent in flavor,
-forming a splendid variety for blending with any tea.
-
-~Hychows~--Are much inferior to the former in leaf and liquor, the
-infusion, although darker in color, is lighter in body and devoid of
-any pronounced flavor.
-
-~Fychows~--Are generally bold and rough in leaf, dull-green in color,
-dark and heavy in liquor and astringent in flavor, being in the whole
-a very undesirable sort for any purpose.
-
-~Tienkes~--While long and coarse in make are yet pleasing to the eye,
-being chiefly sold in style as they will not stand the cup test, the
-infusion being dark, thick, bitter and frequently smoky in flavor owing
-to high firing.
-
-~Tayshings~--Like Tienkes look well in the hand, being fairly well-made
-and stylish-looking, but are of a leaden-blue color, the result of the
-facing or coloring matter used to enhance their appearance, while the
-liquor is dark and muddy and the flavor earthy to the taste.
-
-~Pingsueys~--Are termed by the Chinese Bastard Tea, being principally
-prepared from the leaves of some shrub remotely resembling those of
-the Tea plant. While the leaf is very stylish and firmly made it is of
-heavy blue color and greasy in appearance owing to the gypsum used in
-their preparation and are entirely unfit for human use.
-
-What are known as “Canton” and “Country” Green Teas are also spurious
-Teas, the former being manufactured from spent or exhausted Tea leaves,
-that is Tea once used, dried, refired and colored with gypsum or
-Prussian blue. The latter being prepared from the leaves of wild or
-uncultivated Tea plants.
-
-[Illustration: (Picking Tea in China.)]
-
-
-SUB-VARIETIES.
-
-The Green Teas of China are again sub-divided in Gunpowders, Imperials,
-Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankays, terms denoting style of make, age
-or other peculiarity, and are too well known to the trade to need
-description.
-
-~Gunpowder~--Is termed by the Chinese “Choo-Cha” or Pearl tea, from
-its small, round or shotty appearance. It is generally prepared from
-the smallest and youngest leaves of the green tea plant, its quality
-corresponding to the picking and district of growth. The product of the
-first crop is sometimes known as “Pin-head” from its extremely small,
-round or globular appearance.
-
-~Imperial~--Derives its trade name from being the style or make of
-Tea used in the Imperial household and by the Mandarins or wealthier
-Chinese. That exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of
-the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as the former,
-from which fact it is also known as “Big Gunpowder” and also as
-“Pea-leaf.” But while larger and bolder in make it possesses much the
-same drawing and drinking qualities.
-
-~Hyson~--Is known to the Chinese as “He-tsien” or “Flourishing Spring”
-from being picked in the full spring-time, and is large and loosely
-made, being prepared from the older leaves of each respective picking.
-It bears the same relation to Young Hyson that Imperial does to
-Gunpowder and produces the same characteristics, but in a minor degree.
-
-~Young Hyson~--Is a corruption of the Chinese term, “Yu-tsien,” or
-Early Spring, from being gathered in the early spring-time, and in make
-the leaves are extremely small, finely but artistically twisted, almost
-wirey in texture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves
-of the tea plant.
-
-~Twankay~--Or “Hyson-skin,” is composed chiefly of the largest and
-oldest leaves of the foregoing varieties that cannot, owing to their
-coarse or broken condition, be rolled or converted into the former
-makes. It is a large, loose and flat-leaf tea, varying in color,
-liquor and flavor, according to the grades from which it is separated.
-
-Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time existed regarding
-the species of plant yielding the varieties known as Green and Black
-teas, many authorities claiming that the former was produced from
-the Green tea plant exclusively, and the latter from the Black tea
-plant solely, while again it was held by others that both varieties
-were prepared at pleasure from but one and the same species, the
-mere difference in color, flavor and effects being due entirely to
-a disparity in the soil and process of curing. But later and more
-careful investigation disprove these particular opinions, as while it
-is now admitted, even by the Chinese themselves, that both kinds may
-be produced at will from either or both species of the tea plant, it
-is a popular error to imagine that China produces the two commercial
-kinds in all districts, as the preparation of the greater proportion of
-the respective varieties is carried on in widely separated districts
-of the Empire from corresponding species of the tea plant, different
-methods being adopted only in the process of curing the two kinds from
-the first stage. Green teas are prepared and distinguished from Black
-in such instances by the fact that the former are not fermented as long
-or fired as high in the process of rolling as the latter. It was also
-a commonly-received opinion at one time that the distinctive color of
-Green teas was imparted to them by being cured and fired in copper
-pans. For this belief, however, there is not the slightest foundation
-in fact, as copper pans are never used for the purpose of firing tea,
-repeated experiments and unerring tests having been frequently made by
-competent experts, but not even in a single instance has any trace of
-that metal been found in them.
-
-[Illustration: (Japan Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-JAPAN TEAS.
-
-In color, flavor and character, Japan Teas are totally distinct
-from any and all other varieties of Tea known to commerce. They are
-divided into Panfired, Sundried and Basketfired Teas and Nibs, but
-are frequently converted into Oolongs, Pekoes, Congous, Imperials,
-Gunpowder and Young Hyson makes.
-
-[Illustration: (Curing Tea.)]
-
-~Panfired Japan~--Is a medium-sized green-leaf Tea, well-curled and
-presenting an unbroken appearance. It yields a bright clear liquor
-which remains unchanged in color until quite cold, and possesses a
-flavor delicate but fragrant in odor. The medium grades, however, are
-rougher in make, darker in liquor and duller in flavor, while the
-commoner ones are coarse and unsightly in style, varying in color and
-somewhat “brassy” or metallic in flavor.
-
-~Sundried Japan~--Derive their trade-name from being dried in the
-sun before firing, in order to fix their color more permanently. The
-leaf is of an olive-green color, small and compactly curled, and the
-liquor what is known as “toasty” in flavor owing to their thorough
-fermentation before firing. The lower grade range from a yellowish to a
-dull-green in color, indifferently made and often “fishy” in taste from
-the use of fish manure in cultivating.
-
-~Basketfired Japan~--Is so called from being cured in baskets over a
-slow fire. The finer grades are long, dark and exceedingly well twisted
-or curled, clear and bright in the infusion and mellow or “mealy”
-in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for
-blending with Oolong in the proportions of one part to four of Oolong,
-or almost any variety into which they are introduced.
-
-[Illustration: (Firing Tea.)]
-
-~Japan Nibs~--Are composed of the largest and oldest leaves of the
-foregoing sorts, and bear the same relation to Japan Teas that Twankay
-does to Green Teas. In the cheaper and lower-grade blends they make
-an excellent addition by imparting strength and fullness to the
-combination, particularly when separated from the higher grades of
-Japan Teas.
-
-[Illustration: (Rolling and Curling.)]
-
-~Japan Oolongs~--Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gunpowder and Hysons
-differ only from the regular Japan Teas in make, and from being
-prepared from the same leaf they naturally possess the same general
-characteristics and cup qualities, but are not produced in any
-appreciable quantities.
-
-[Illustration: (Sorting Tea.)]
-
-[Illustration: (India and Ceylon Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-INDIA TEAS.
-
-Principally comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, Dooars, Deradoons,
-Kumaons and Chittagongs, ranking in quality in the order named, and
-are converted into Pekoes, Souchongs, Congous and Pekoe-Souchongs
-resembling most the Congou sorts of China in make, style, color and
-general appearance, but many of them being produced from a combination
-of the China and India Tea plants are hybrid in character, differing
-widely from their originals. In make and style they are in general
-longer and narrower in leaf, better curled and more shapely in form
-than the corresponding Chinese varieties, but contain a much greater
-excess of tannin which accounts for their superior strength or rather
-rankness in the infused state.
-
-[Illustration: (India Tea Plantation.)]
-
-~Assams~--Are greyish-black in color, the dried leaf of the finer
-grades being pekoe-tipped and flavored. The liquor is unusually strong
-and pungent in addition to being thick and heavy in the cup, but are
-very useful for forming the base or foundation of all blends among
-Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers.
-
-~Cachars~--Are blacker in color, but not as well made or handsome
-in appearance. The infusion, however, is softer and mellower, being
-occasionally what is known as “fruity” in flavor.
-
-~Darjeeling~--Is a hybrid variety, produced from a cross between the
-China and India Tea plants and partakes somewhat of the characteristics
-of both. But, while blacker in leaf, it is not on an average as finely
-made, and while round and full in body is not as pungent or flavory in
-the infusion.
-
-~Dooars~--Approximate more to Cachars in style, color and general
-appearance, and are strong, rough and coarse in liquor, but pungent and
-pleasing in flavor, being a serviceable Tea for blending, as it imparts
-tone and character to any combination in it which it may be used.
-
-~Deradoon~--Is a high-fired Tea, loosely made and deteriorating
-rapidly, becoming sour or rancid on exposure to the atmosphere in
-a very short time. The liquor is frequently “earthy” in taste and
-somewhat analogous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reasons they are
-not much sought after.
-
-~Kumaon~--Is generally converted into Gunpowder, Imperial and Hyson
-Teas, all being prepared from the same leaf, the chief and only
-difference lying in their make and color, as they still retain all
-their Indian characteristics of liquor and flavor.
-
-~Chittagong~--Is thick, heavy and strong in the cup, and what is termed
-“nutty” in flavor and are considered good, useful Teas for blending
-purposes from their great strength and positive character.
-
-India Teas in general possess a sharp acid taste not to be found in any
-of the foregoing varieties, and a distinct but peculiar flavor, rarely
-liked by American Tea consumers, except when largely tempered with the
-softer and more mellow liquored Teas of China. In order to neutralize
-or offset this disagreeable peculiarity, it is at all times necessary
-to use only the best of the India grades in blending. Another very
-disagreeable feature of India Teas is that of the formation of an oily
-or gummy film which settles on top of the liquor after infusion. The
-loss of flavor and rapid decay in exposure is also greater in India
-Teas than in most other varieties. The grades most easily affected in
-this manner being the two highly-fired, light-liquored and open-leaf
-makes.
-
-[Illustration: (Ceylon Tea Plantation.)]
-
-
-CEYLON TEAS.
-
-~Ceylon Teas~--Are comparatively new Teas to commerce, and are known to
-trade as Matagalas, Mandulsumas, Rakuwanas, Kanda-loyas, Kandapole and
-Soocan-duris, but as with India Teas they are chiefly converted into
-silver and golden Pekoe, Congous, Souchongs and Pekoe-Souchongs. Their
-leaf, liquor and flavor like their India prototypes varies greatly
-in style and quality, according to the elevation at which they are
-grown, their uniformity also varying from year to year as in the India
-districts.
-
-~Silver Pekoe~--Is a long, whitish, downey-leaf Tea, almost “satiny” in
-texture, with silvery tips at the ends. The liquor is dark, reddish in
-color, but bright and sparkling in the cup, delicate and fragrant in
-flavor for this variety but very much overrated in value.
-
-~Golden Pekoe~--Is a much smaller leaf Tea, darker in color and
-somewhat silky in texture and liberally sprinkled with rich, yellow
-or orange tips while the inferior grades are much darker and heavier
-in body, but fresh, fragrant and greatly appreciated by consumers who
-prefer this variety.
-
-~Pekoe-Souchong~--Is chiefly composed of the Pekoe leaves that are
-devoid of tips and Souchong containing some tipped leaves, but as a
-general rule it is an unassorted Tea prepared from the larger and
-coarser leaves that will not pass through the sieves. It is medium in
-size and choppy in leaf, but ripe and rich in liquor, fairly brisk and
-malty in flavor.
-
-
-CEYLON CONGOUS AND SOUCHONGS.
-
-Closely resemble the corresponding India kinds in make, color, liquor
-and flavor, and make excellent Teas for combining in blending but like
-the India sorts will not keep as long or as well as the China or Japan
-kinds, becoming sour and rancid in a few months, defects attributed to
-the rapid artificial methods of curing practiced in these countries.
-
-[Illustration: (Ceylon Tea Factory.)]
-
-~Broken Leaf~--India and Ceylon Broken-leaf Teas are composed of the
-old, broken and mutilated leaves of the other sorts which are separated
-in sifting, and bear the same relation to these varieties that Twankay
-does to China Green Teas and Nibs to the Japan sorts. They vary in
-color from brown to black, their strength being seldom great, though
-the flavor of the finer grades is in general good, drawing and drinking
-in proportion to the grades from which they are separated, while that
-of the commoner kinds is poor, thin and coarse in liquor and flavor.
-
-[Illustration: _a_--Pekoe. _b_--Souchong. _c_--Congou.
-_d_--Souchong-Congou.
-
-(Java Tea Plant.)]
-
-
-JAVA TEAS.
-
-Are known to commerce as Preangers, Krawangs, Cheribons, Bagelens and
-Banjœmas Teas, and are classified as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs and
-Souchongs, after the manner of India and Ceylon Teas. The leaves of the
-different kinds are sorted during the picking, and graded according
-to size, the smallest being converted into Pekoe, the medium into
-Souchong, and the largest into Oolongs and Congous.
-
-Java Teas in general are particularly small in leaf, dull-black in
-color, but rather handsome in general appearance, and approximating
-more to the India variety in style, color and character, but do not
-keep as well, becoming rank and sour when allowed to lay too long. The
-liquor of Java Teas is also deficient in strength, body and flavor,
-being almost totally devoid of any distinctive aroma or pronounced
-fragrance, defects attributable mainly to their faulty and imperfect
-methods of curing and preparing, as well as to the fact that the leaves
-are picked from the plants all the year round, and allowed no time for
-rest or recuperation, and making very indifferent Teas for blending or
-using alone.
-
-The last three varieties are generally converted in Congous and
-Souchongs, ranking with and approximating to Java Teas in style, color
-and character.
-
-~African Teas~--Are large, black and coarse in leaf and liquor, being
-very bitter and astringent in flavor. They make poor Teas for blending
-purposes.
-
-~Fiji Teas~--Like African are coarse in leaf, blackish in liquor and
-almost rank in flavor.
-
-~Singapore Tea~--Is also a very inferior grade for blending, being too
-pronounced in character for the purpose.
-
-
-
-
-PART III.
-
-ART OF TESTING AND SELECTING TEAS.
-
-
-The Teas of commerce possess two values--an intrinsic or real value,
-and a commercial or market value--the former constituting its quality,
-strength and flavor, the latter being more often based on its style
-or appearance, supply and fluctuations in price, so that in their
-selection for commercial purposes four leading features are to be
-considered before purchasing by the dealer, viz.: Leaf, Liquor,
-Character and Flavor, the drawing and drinking qualities of a Tea in
-the cup being paramount to its style or appearance in the hand, as many
-Teas though coarse or rough-looking in “make” or appearance draw and
-drink exceedingly well in the infusion.
-
-There are five principal methods of testing and selecting Teas for
-commercial use, and which may be summed up in the following sequence.
-First by
-
-
-STYLE OR APPEARANCE.
-
-A good Tea may be readily recognized by its style or appearance in the
-hand, which though not invariably an indication of its merit in the cup
-has considerable to do with its quality and value, choice Teas of all
-kinds being handsomely made and pleasing to the eye. They are compactly
-if not artistically curled or rolled according to their make, whether
-Green or Black, and all Teas are fine in proportion to their youth and
-tenderness, the ripest and juiciest curling up tightest and retaining
-their form longest, that is the younger and fresher the leaves the
-richer and more succulent the Tea. While old and inferior Teas on the
-other hand are large, rough and loosely made in proportion to their
-age, quality and period of picking, as being partially or totally
-devoid of sap they are correspondingly coarse, astringent or entirely
-flavorless in the infused state. By
-
-
-FEELING OR PRESSING.
-
-Judging a sample of Tea by feeling or pressing in the hand is more
-applicable to the curled, twisted or Black Tea sorts than to the rolled
-or Green Tea kinds. For instance, if the leaves of the former make so
-tested be really choice, they will be found smooth, crisp and elastic
-in the hand and capable of resisting a gentle but firm pressure without
-breaking. But if the leaves be old and sapless they will be found tough
-and chaffy to the touch, very brittle, breaking easily and crumbling
-under the same conditions.
-
-
-SMELLING OR INHALING.
-
-By blowing or breathing heavily upon a sample of Tea and then quickly
-smelling or inhaling the odor emitted from it, a very fair estimate of
-its general character may be formed by the dealer. To judge correctly
-by this method, however, an acquaintance with the distinctive flavors
-and peculiarities will be necessary, this knowledge being best acquired
-by the dealer adopting a type or standard sample of the Teas he is
-using or wants to match. By
-
-
-MASTICATING OR CHEWING.
-
-An approximate estimate of a Tea may also be formed by chewing or
-masticating the leaves, a good tea being easily recognized by the
-rapid manner in which the leaves are dissolved on slight mastication.
-If the Tea be young and the leaves tender, they become quickly reduced
-to a pasty consistency and very juicy, but if old and inferior they
-will be found difficult to chew, tough, and yielding little or no sap,
-according to its age and inferiority.
-
-
-INFUSING OR DRAWING
-
-Is, after all is said, the most satisfactory and reliable a method of
-testing or appraising a Tea at its true value, this being the manner
-adopted by all expert dealers and brokers in Tea. For this method a
-number of small cups, scales and a half-dime weight are necessary,
-together with a clean kettle of freshly distilled or filtered water,
-briskly boiling, and poured on the leaves, after which they are allowed
-to infuse from three to five minutes before smelling and tasting. The
-water used must in all cases be as soft and pure as can be obtained,
-boiled briskly and used only at the boiling point, that is, it must
-boil, but not overboil, as if allowed to do so for even a few minutes,
-it will not extract in its entirety the full strength or flavor of the
-Tea.
-
-As the value of a Tea commercially depends principally upon the weight
-and flavor of the infusion as well as in the aroma imparted to it by
-the volatile oil which it contains, so the intrinsic value of a Tea is
-based principally on the amount of extract which it yields on infusion
-in addition to the quantity of the theine and tannin contained therein.
-Again, the taste for a particular variety of Tea being an acquired and
-not a natural one, it follows that persons accustomed to a certain
-variety or flavor in Tea want that particular kind and will not be
-satisfied with any other even if better or higher-priced. This fact
-being admitted it becomes essential to the success of the Tea dealer
-to study and learn the tastes and preferences of his patrons in order
-to cater satisfactorily to them. To illustrate he may be selling his
-trade a heavy-bodied Amoy Oolong or dark-leaved Foochow and suddenly
-change off to a fine Formosa or Congou. In such a case his customers
-will be very apt to find fault with the latter, no matter how fine they
-may be. It therefore becomes essential to the success of the dealer to
-pay particular attention to the quality and standard of the Teas he is
-purchasing, as there is no article which he handles that will attract
-trade or retain it longer than a good Tea at a legitimate price, such a
-Tea creating more comment in a district than any other article used at
-table and to such an extent that if the customers once lose confidence
-in either the ability or honesty of the dealer in supplying them they
-will be repelled rather than attracted, it being next to impossible to
-draw them back again once they leave through any mistake of the dealer
-in his selection. Poor or badly selected Teas will drive more customers
-away from a store in a week than can be made in a year, so that it will
-not pay the dealer to make any serious error in the selection of his
-Teas, such mistake proving fatal to the holding or increasing of his
-Tea trade as well as for other articles. It is therefore much better
-and more profitable in the end to handle only good Teas on fair and
-legitimate margin than to sell poor inferior and unsatisfactory Teas at
-a larger margin of profit.
-
-A dealer with any ambition to increase or even retain his Tea trade
-should no more attempt to handle poor, inferior, dusty, musty or
-damaged Teas than a butcher has to sell tainted meats or a baker to
-give his customers sour bread. The offense may not at first seem as
-objectionable, but the final verdict of his customers will be the same
-in each case, and the positive manner in which they will eventually
-manifest their opinion will be to quit dealing with him altogether.
-Good, clean, pure and sweet-drawing Teas can always be purchased at a
-few cents per pound above the price of the dusty, musty, mousey, woody,
-herby, grassy, smoky, or sour and trashy Teas now flooding the market.
-So that by the mistaken policy of trying to save a few cents per pound
-extra the seed is sown for the final ruin of the dealer himself in
-addition to casting discredit on the use of Tea as an article of diet.
-While on the other hand, if the dealer makes a small but necessary
-sacrifice for the sake of future gain and reputation by selling only
-Tea that is Tea, and content himself with a fair but legitimate profit,
-satisfaction will be given to his customers, his Tea trade fostered and
-extended, and the consumption of this most important food auxiliary
-increased throughout the country.
-
-
-GRADING OF TEAS.
-
-Black Teas, such as Oolongs and Congous, are graded as “Firsts,”
-“Seconds,” “Thirds,” “Fourths” and some times “Fifths,” denoting the
-respective pickings and grading in the order named. They are usually
-divided into “chops”--quantities bearing the brand or “chop-mark” of
-the grower or packer--and which are again sub-divided into “Lines,”
-“Marks” and “Numbers,” the latter rarely exceeding fifty packages.
-The term “chop” meaning in Chinese “contract,” which in the Tea trade
-is applied to a quantity of Tea frequently composed of the product of
-different gardens or districts and afterwards mixed together and made
-uniform before packing and forwarding to the shipping ports.
-
-Green Teas are graded as Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4, the former being applied
-to the choicest kinds, No. 2 to choice, No. 3 to medium, and 4 to the
-common grades.
-
-Japan Teas are usually graded as “Common,” “Choice,” “Extra Choice” and
-“Choicest.”
-
-India and Ceylon Teas are divided into “Breaks,” each separate picking
-being known in trade as a “flush” and graded accordingly. Nearly all
-the India and Ceylon Teas are first “bulked;” that is, the whole is run
-together in one heap and thoroughly mixed before being put up in the
-chests, this process having the advantage of insuring the regularity of
-the break or chop. The selection of India and Ceylon Teas for blending
-purposes is much more difficult than that of China and Japan Teas,
-greater care being required to avoid Teas that will not keep well as
-well as those which may possess any other objectionable peculiarity.
-The loss of strength and flavor is also much greater in some grades
-than in others, the kinds most affected being the too highly-fired
-Teas, the light-flavored Teas and those that possess a loose, rough or
-open leaf.
-
-
-WHEN TO BUY TEAS.
-
-The Tea market fluctuating considerably, sometimes it will be necessary
-for the dealer to learn to understand something of the law of supply
-and demand, which, to a great extent, affects the fluctuations of the
-Tea market, before he can be sure of making desirable purchases. The
-dealer in Tea who not only understands the article he is dealing in,
-but whose knowledge and judgment enable him, in addition, to make his
-purchases about the proper time, possesses many advantages over his
-competitors, the value of which cannot be overestimated. For instance,
-each season, on the arrival of the first steamers from China and
-Japan, high prices rule for the earliest pickings, and if the market
-be bare of chance lots, these full prices are continued for some time
-thereafter. Then follows a dull, drooping market, from which the
-dealer derives no satisfaction, but should the demand at first be high
-and the stocks large, through dealers declining to purchase at full
-figures, prices rapidly decline to a more reasonable level, after
-which they then continue comparatively steady for the balance of the
-year, unless some outside causes should arise to create an advance.
-For these reasons dealers would do well to take advantage of the fine
-selections of Teas that arrive during July, August and September from
-China and Japan. In the purchase of India and Ceylon Teas it will also
-be found necessary to watch the new arrivals closely, as, after the
-heavy receipts during October and November, the market is nearly always
-easier, but when the arrivals are light the market is much higher.
-These facts are worth the special attention of dealers, as India and
-Ceylon Teas, although until quite recently comparatively unknown, now
-form some of the principal kinds for blending purposes.
-
-With the great reduction in the importation prices and the keener
-competition among dealers, the retail prices of Tea have been brought
-down to a very low figure, and as dealers generally have educated the
-public to the purchase of poor and trashy Teas at low prices, it is
-not probable that the retail prices will ever again reach any higher
-figures, unless war or other similar cause should lead to a duty being
-placed upon the commodity. Yet notwithstanding these unprecedented low
-prices, the per capita consumption of Tea is comparatively very small
-in this country at the present time. One of the chief causes of this
-small consumption is directly traceable to the custom now prevalent
-among retail dealers of charging exorbitant profits on inferior Teas in
-order to make up for losses sustained on other goods, together with the
-forcing of poor Teas on their customers. These unwise and impolitic
-practices might be overlooked were it not for the greater mistake
-made of sacrificing quality to profit, which in an article of daily
-and almost universal use like Tea, is an important consideration, so
-that by rectifying this error and giving more attention to the careful
-selection of his Teas by the dealer, there is no valid reason why the
-consumption of the article could not be at least doubled in a short
-time in this country.
-
-
-
-
-PART IV.
-
-ADULTERATION AND DETECTION.
-
-
-The Teas of commerce are subject to three principal forms of
-adulteration, viz.: Facing or coloring with deleterious compounds in
-order to enhance their appearance, mixing with spurious and spent or
-once used leaves, with the object of increasing their bulk, and sanding
-or adulterating with mineral matter to add to their weight. But it is
-against the two first most commonly dangerous forms of adulteration
-that the principal efforts of dealers and Tea inspectors should more
-particularly be directed, the latter having received some attention
-from analysts and chemists, but not to that extent which the importance
-of the subject merits.
-
-Of the various forms of adulteration practiced in China and Japan, the
-facing or artificial coloring of low-grade Green Teas is perhaps the
-most prevalent and glaring, the material used for the purpose being
-usually composed of Prussian blue, China clay, gypsum, turmeric and
-indigo.
-
-The process of coloring Green Teas is performed by placing a portion of
-the Prussian blue in a large bowl and crushing it into a fine powder, a
-small quantity of gypsum is then added, and the two substances ground
-and mixed together in the proportions of one part blue to four parts
-of the gypsum, both making in combination a light blue preparation,
-in which state it is applied to the leaves during the last process
-of firing. One ounce of this coloring matter will face or color from
-fifteen to twenty pounds of Tea leaves, imparting to them a dull
-leaden-blue color and a greasy appearance readily detected in the hand.
-
-When Green or Japan Teas are heavily coated in this manner it may be
-readily recognized by their heavy leaden-blue color and oily or greasy
-appearance in the hand; or, better still, by placing a small sample
-of the leaves on a piece of glass and allowing them to rest there for
-some minutes, then on removing them the coloring matter, if any, will
-be found adhering to the glass, and its nature, whether Prussian blue,
-indigo or soapstone, detected by the aid of a small microscope. But
-when only lightly colored the best method is to put the leaves in a
-cup or glass and pour boiling water on them, stirring them up well
-meantime and then straining the infusion through a thin muslin cloth,
-and the coloring matter will be found deposited in the cloth or forming
-a sediment at the bottom or sides of the vessel into which they are
-strained.
-
-What are known to trade as “Made Teas,” that is, Teas artificially
-manufactured from leaves once used, or tea dust, and a preparation
-of gum or glue to hold them together, and then colored and glazed
-to give them a pleasing appearance to the eye, are best detected by
-crushing the so-called leaves between the fingers or hands upon which
-they leave a yellowish stain, greasy in nature if spurious leaves.
-Or again, by pulverizing a small quantity of the alleged Tea leaves,
-and putting them in a cup or glass and pouring on boiling water, they
-will immediately begin to disintegrate and form a thick, gluey deposit
-at the bottom of the vessel, pasty in nature, the coloring matter
-adhering to the bottom or sides of the cup or glass.
-
-Another form of adulteration practiced principally in China is the
-admixture of spurious or foreign leaves obtained from other plants,
-such as the willow, plum, ash, and what is known in trade as Ankoi
-Tea. Millions of pounds of such spurious Tea leaves are annually
-picked, cured and colored in the same manner as Tea in some of the
-Chinese Tea districts, and used for the purpose of increasing the bulk
-and decreasing the cost of genuine Teas, this form of adulteration,
-however, being only trivial when compared with the former one. Such
-spurious or foreign leaves in a Tea are best detected by their
-botanical character, that is, by the absence of the special structural
-marks, which distinguish the genuine Tea leaf from that of the leaves
-from all other plants in the vegetable kingdom, for while it is
-admitted that the Tea leaf bears a strong resemblance to those of the
-willow, plum and ash, it varies materially, however, in size, form
-and structure from them, the border of the true Tea leaf being more
-regularly serrated, the serrations stopping just short of the stalk,
-and the venations are very characteristic in the genuine Tea leaf, the
-veins running out from the mid-rib almost parallel with each other,
-but altering their course before the border of the leaf is reached and
-turning so as to leave a bare space just under it. So that in making
-an examination of a sample of Tea for the purpose of ascertaining
-whether these distinctive characteristics are present in the leaves,
-it will be found best to pour boiling water on to soften and uncurl
-them, and spread them out more easily on the glass as per the following
-diagrams:--
-
-[Illustration:
-
-(True Chinese Tea-Leaf.)
-
-(True Japanese Tea-Leaf.)
-
-(True Ceylon Tea-Leaf.)
-
-(True India Tea-Leaf.) ]
-
-But in order to better detect the presence of spurious leaves in Tea, a
-better knowledge of the botanical formation of the true Tea leaf will
-be requisite, as Tea leaves in general bear a very strong resemblance
-to those of the willow, plum and ash, but vary widely in size and
-texture, being much smaller and more deeply serrated.
-
-When infused and unfolded, the true or genuine Tea leaf is of a
-lighter-green color, the looping of the principal veinings being
-also very characteristic, while the spurious leaves are of a dark
-greenish-yellow color and very irregular in form when examined under
-the same conditions.
-
-Sand and other mineral substances, such as iron and steel filings,
-are also frequently introduced into Tea with the object of adding to
-its weight, and are easiest detected by powdering a small quantity of
-the leaves and spreading the powder out on a piece of glass and then
-applying an ordinary magnet to the dust, so that if a quantity of the
-particles gravitate and adhere to the magnet the Tea is undoubtedly
-adulterated in this form.
-
-All adulterations and fabrications in general, however, may be best
-detected by the following simple but effectual method: By putting a
-small sample of the Tea leaves in a wine-glass or thin goblet and
-pouring in clear cold water on them, and then stirring up or shaking
-well for a few minutes so that the Tea, if pure, will only slightly
-color the water, but if adulterated in any form a dark, muddy-looking
-liquor is quickly yielded, which, if next boiled and allowed to stand
-until cold, will, if spurious leaves are contained, become very bitter
-to the taste and almost transparent as it cools, while if the sample
-is composed of pure Tea only, it will be dark in color and pleasing in
-flavor under the same conditions.
-
-
-
-
-PART V.
-
-ART OF BLENDING TEAS.
-
-
-The primary object and fundamental principle of successful and
-profitable Tea blending should be to obtain in a consolidated form what
-is known as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency, flavor
-and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same time to accomplish this
-result with the smallest possible outlay. In order to secure this end
-three important rules must be carefully followed: (1.) To learn the
-taste of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will combine best
-to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what extent the component
-parts of a once-adopted and satisfactory blend may be varied in case
-of any difficulty to secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future
-use. These essential objects can be best attained only by the proper
-selecting, weighing and arranging of the proportionate qualities
-and quantities of the different varieties and grades of Tea in such
-a manner as to secure the best results with as little variation as
-possible, so that before proceeding to produce a specific blend or
-combination the dealer must consider well the descriptions of Tea that
-will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as those that will not
-unite harmoniously, as _Teas that are not improved by combination are
-certain to be deteriorated in blending_.
-
-The whole art in successful Tea blending being to combine body and
-pungency with some particular and distinct flavor in one in order to
-please a majority of that portion of the public for whom the Tea is
-specially prepared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent
-parts in such a manner that this most desirable result may be
-accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer than that of any single
-higher-priced variety, and again to learn how far the component parts
-may be varied without seriously affecting its regularity, so that
-advantage may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety or
-grade in market during the season. But it must be understood at the
-outset that all combinations of Tea, as a rule, must depend upon the
-general character, grade and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the
-particular section or district for which they are intended, that special
-variety or grade forming the base or foundation of the blends prepared
-for it; that is, it must dominate the combinations. As, for instance,
-where Oolongs are most in demand the blend must consist of from
-one-half to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous, Japans,
-India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be secured by
-intelligent and skillful blending, so that the advantages to be gained
-by the mixing of several varieties and grades of Tea together is so
-apparent that it needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the
-most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the best all-round
-qualities which go to make a thoroughly satisfactory beverage when used
-alone, it is only by intelligent blending that this most desirable
-result can be obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it is
-the dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas successfully
-who will invariably lead his competitors in the Tea-trade.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an acquired and not
-a natural one, it necessarily follows that those consumers who have
-been accustomed to a certain flavor invariably want that particular
-flavor again, and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does
-not possess it, although it may be much higher priced and better in
-every way. Users of wine and other beverages have their likes and
-dislikes, one preferring a light or mild and another a strong or
-bitter taste, and so it is with most Tea drinkers when once they have
-acquired a preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being a
-well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes essential for
-the successful Tea blender to study and learn what particular variety,
-grade or flavor of Tea his patrons have been accustomed to before
-attempting to cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence
-in the taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in
-cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in demand
-are so numerous and various that most of the leading Tea dealers have
-been enabled to mark out a distinct trade for themselves. In large
-cities this is a very wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing
-the blend or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uniform and
-regular thereafter, as it secures the return again and again of the
-same customer to the dealer, and thus keeps his Tea business not only
-steady but progressive. Even away from the large cities it is well to
-bear the importance of this policy in mind, but while at the beginning
-it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close to the established
-taste of the town or locality, a gradual change by the introduction of
-some special combination may be found the best course to pursue.
-
- * * * * *
-
-With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes, before proceeding
-to the study or preparation of any specific formulas, it will be
-well for the dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that
-will not blend satisfactorily as well as those that will assimilate
-successfully with each other. In this case it is much easier to
-describe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be improved
-are certain to be injured by blending. One of the best rules to act
-upon as a guide to successful Tea blending is not to allow unclean or
-damaged Teas--even in the smallest quantities--to be introduced into
-any blend. This rule should be as rigidly adhered to in the common or
-low-priced blends as in the choice or high-grade ones, because never
-for a moment should it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved
-Teas are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly by the
-introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it may be well for him
-to consider the grade of Tea that will combine satisfactorily as well
-as that will not assimilate successfully with each other, as even
-though all the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and well
-arranged, the presence of a single damaged or inferior Tea will be
-found to taste through it.
-
- * * * * *
-
-All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade as “herby” or
-“weedy,” and sometimes as “woody” Teas, should be rejected altogether,
-as should ever so small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced
-into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably spoiled. All
-“dusty,” “musty,” “stemmy,” tainted or otherwise damaged Foochow and
-Formosa Oolongs should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender,
-as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any combination into
-which they are introduced, no matter how small the quantity. And all
-“musty,” “mousey,” “minty,” and “stemmy” Congou and Souchong Teas, as
-well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented Teas, must also be
-shunned.
-
- * * * * *
-
-All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what are known in trade
-as Country Green Teas, should be tabooed altogether, as they invariably
-detract from any blend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas
-must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a true Moyune
-Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the purpose, as the commonest kinds
-of the latter will give better satisfaction in any combination of Teas
-than the finest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored Japan
-Teas, as well as all those of a “fishy,” “brassy” or metallic flavor
-must be avoided in blending, as they, too, destroy the good qualities
-of the finer Teas forming the blend. And all old, sour or otherwise
-tainted India, Ceylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under
-any circumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea blender,
-as there is neither profit in them for the dealer nor satisfaction to
-the consumer. In brief, select only good, clean sweet-drawing Teas for
-all blending purposes, as it pays best in the end.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas may be summed up
-in the following sequence, viz.: choice Amoy Oolongs are “full-bodied
-and toasty” in flavor. Foochows are “rich and mellow.” Formosas are
-“fragrant and aromatic.” Fine Green Teas are “sparkling and pungent
-in liquor,” while Congous are “fruity” in flavor and Souchongs are
-slightly “tarry.” Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and
-what is known as “mealy” in flavor, while Indias are what is known as
-“malty” and Ceylons “toasty.” Scented Teas are “piquant” and possess
-what is technically termed a “bouquet,” but all Java Teas usually turn
-sour or rancid in a very brief time after being once opened and exposed
-to the atmosphere.
-
-
-BLACK TEA BLENDS.
-
-
-Formula No. 1.
-
-For a low-priced Tea suitable for restaurant and general trade
-where a cheap, heavy-bodied and strong-flavored liquor is the main
-consideration:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Ning-chow Congou @ .14
- 10 Amoy Oolong @ .12
- ----
- Average cost .13
-
-In the Oolong, which forms the base of this blend, a little coarseness
-may be tolerated, but “herby” and “weedy” Teas must be avoided, as
-what pungency is required is supplied by the Congou, which must,
-however, be free from any suspicion of oldness or staleness, and if not
-sufficiently heavy, the addition of one part of Broken-leaf Assam will
-supply this defect.
-
-
-No. 2.
-
-Another low-priced blend is composed as follows:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Oonfa Congou @ .20
- 8 Mohea Oolong @ .16
- ----
- Average cost .16-1/2
-
-
-No. 3.
-
-For a low-priced to a fair grade Tea-blend the following combination
-has been found satisfactory in a mining or manufacturing district,
-where a full, heavy, substantial Tea is required:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moning Congou @ .20
- 2 Amoy Oolong @ .20
- 7 Foochow Oolong @ .20
- ----
- Average cost .20
-
-This combination yields a dark-colored, heavy-bodied, “grippy”
-beverage, one that will stand a second drawing and still be strong and
-flavory.
-
-
-No. 4.
-
-Intended for same class of trade if former should not adequately
-please:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Foochow Oolong @ .18
- 2 Kaisow Congou @ .20
- 10 Ning-yong Oolong @ .16
- ----
- Average cost .19
-
-The Ning-yong in this combination should be clean and as sweet-drawing
-as can be had for the price, and the Congou as high-toasted as
-possible. If not sufficiently heavy or pungent, the addition of one
-pound Broken-leaf Assam will improve it in this respect wonderfully.
-
-
-No. 5.
-
-For a fair to medium blend, a combination like the following will be
-found to give almost universal satisfaction in any locality where a
-full-ripe round liquor and high flavor is in demand:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Ning-chow Congou @ .30
- 2 Foochow Oolong @ .24
- 2 Formosa Oolong @ .24
- ----
- Average cost .24-1/4
-
-The Foochow Oolong in this combination while possessing a full body is
-not sufficiently flavory to tone-up the combination, the Formosa Oolong
-is added for this purpose, the Congou giving character to the whole.
-
-
-No. 6.
-
-To obtain a grippy Tea, one that will stand a second drawing and
-still possess sufficient body and flavor to please, the following is
-suggested:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Foochow Oolong @ .15
- 3 Formosa Oolong @ .20
- 5 Kaisow Congou @ .24
- ----
- Average cost .21
-
-
-No. 7.
-
-A blend similar to the following will be found to give very general
-satisfaction at all times and in all sections, being full rich, and
-strong, yet withal smooth and pleasing to the average taste and
-entirely dissimilar to any single variety in common use:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moning Congou @ .30
- 1 Basket-fired Japan @ .30
- 8 Formosa Oolong @ .30
- ----
- Average cost .30
-
-A fair Nankin Moyune Tea may be substituted for the Japan when Green
-Tea is required in the combination, or, better still, added to it in
-such cases.
-
-
-No. 8.
-
-A very serviceable Tea that will yield a rich, heavy-bodied pungent
-liquor, much admired by Irish or English tea consumers, is composed as
-follows:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 3 Formosa Oolong @ .30
- 3 Pekoe-tipped Assam @ .30
- ----
- Average cost .30
-
-In this combination the Assam is introduced to add strength to the
-piquancy of the Formosa, both forming a full-bodied, fragrant Tea in
-conjunction.
-
-
-No. 9.
-
-The appended blend yields a clear, strong, bright infusion, rich and
-fragrant in flavor and pleasing in aroma, for those who desire an
-all-black Tea.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Assam Pekoe @ .30
- 3 Basket-fired Japan @ .24
- 5 Formosa Oolong @ .30
- 10 Foochow Oolong @ .26
- ----
- Average cost .27
-
-The Oolongs in this combination lack body and pungency, which the
-addition of the Assam imparts, the Japan giving the necessary fragrance.
-
-
-No. 10.
-
-The following blend has been found to give almost universal
-satisfaction in a neighborhood composed chiefly of a working class and
-to Tea drinkers generally, costing much less than any single variety
-possessing the same cup qualities:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Foochow Oolong @ .20
- 5 Sun-dried Japan @ .20
- 5 Assam Souchong @ .20
- ----
- Average cost .20
-
-
-No. 11.
-
-If the trade be a professional one, a blend like the following will be
-found to suit the most fastidious taste:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moyune Young Hyson @ .40
- 4 Choice Foochow Oolong @ .40
- 5 Choice Formosa Oolong @ .40
- ----
- Average cost .40
-
-
-No. 12.
-
-When a particularly rich, full-bodied aromatic-flavored Tea is required
-to please a taste otherwise difficult to suit, the appended formula is
-recommended.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Choicest Foochow Oolong @
- 3 Choicest Ceylon Pekoe @
- 5 Choicest Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 13.
-
-Another combination like the following that is unique in itself, the
-flavor being unlike that of any single variety grown.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Basket-fired Japan @
- 10 Foochow Oolong @
- 10 Moyune Young Hyson @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-But if still not of sufficient strength, add one part of fine Moning or
-Kaisow Congou to tone it up.
-
-
-No. 14.
-
-The three most satisfactory and attractive blends in Black Teas,
-however, are composed as follows, which may be divided into Choice,
-Extra Choice and Choicest, and are warranted to suit any taste or
-section of the country, in addition to the fact that the dealer need
-not carry too many kinds for their preparation.
-
-
-No. 15.
-
-CHOICE.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Kaisow Congou @ .30
- 8 Foochow Oolong @ .30
- ----
- Average cost .30
-
-
-No. 16.
-
-EXTRA CHOICE.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Moning Congou @ .35
- 2 Basket-fired Japan @ .35
- 6 Foochow Oolong @ .35
- ----
- Average cost, .35
-
-
-No. 17.
-
-CHOICEST.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Fine Ning-chow Congou @ .40
- 2 Fine Basket-fired Japan @ .40
- 6 Fine Formosa Oolong @ .40
- ----
- Average cost, .40
-
- * * * * *
-
-Ning-chow is one of the best of the Moning Congou Teas for blending
-purposes; the finer grades being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The dried
-leaf is small, evenly curled and grayish-black in color, while the
-infused leaf is of a bright-brown color with a tendency to red in the
-cup. The liquor is rich, ripe and full in body, and the flavor is
-more delicate and aromatic than that of any of the other varieties
-of Congou Tea. The medium and lower grades will also be found very
-useful to the dealer, as they are heavy and strong in liquor, combining
-advantageously with most of the other Teas and keeping as a general
-rule much better.
-
- * * * * *
-
-To these may be added the following combinations.
-
-
-No. 18.
-
-FINE.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Choice Assam Pekoe @
- 5 Choice Foochow Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 19.
-
-EXTRA FINE.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Ceylon Golden Pekoe @
- 5 Choice Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 20.
-
-FINEST.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Choicest Foochow Oolong @
- 5 Choicest Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In the general run of trade these grades are unmatchable at any price,
-and may be termed the perfection of Tea at their respective prices,
-suiting any and all tastes.
-
-
-GREEN TEA BLENDS.
-
-In Green Tea blends the combinations are limited, being chiefly
-confined to.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 3 Sun-dried Japan @ .20
- 3 Moyune Young Hyson @ .24
- ----
- Average cost, .22
-
-
-No. 2.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 3 Pan-fired Japan @ .20
- 7 Moyune Imperial @ .30
- ----
- Average cost, .27
-
-
-No. 3.
-
-And for a very low-priced Tea of this order the best results are
-obtainable from a combination composed of:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Japan Nibs @ .15
- 5 Moyune Hyson @ .15
- ----
- Average cost, .15
-
-In this latter blend, if the Hyson is scarce and difficult to secure,
-a good, clean, sweet-drawing Twankay or Hyson-skin will answer the
-purpose.
-
-
-No. 4.
-
-Two other good combinations are formed as follows when an all Imperial
-and all Young Hyson is required:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Moyune Imperial @
- 2 Tienke Imperial @
- 6 Taiping Imperial @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 5.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Nankin Young Hyson @
- 2 Tienke Young Hyson @
- 6 Fy-chow Young Hyson @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-GREEN AND BLACK TEA BLENDS.
-
-Green and Black Tea blends are mostly composed of parts Oolongs and
-Imperials, the other varieties, such as Congous, Souchongs, India and
-Ceylons, being considered as entirely too strong in combination with
-the already pungent Green Teas.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moyune Imperial @ .18
- 4 Amoy Oolong @ .15
- ----
- Average cost .15-1/2
-
-
-No. 2.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Choice Moyune Imperial @ .30
- 8 Choice Foochow Oolong @ .28
- ----
- Average cost .28-1/2
-
-
-No. 3.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Moyune Young Hyson @ .30
- 4 Choice Formosa Oolong @ .30
- ----
- Average cost .30
-
-
-No. 4.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Moyune Young Hyson @ .40
- 4 Choicest Foochow Oolong @ .40
- 4 Choicest Formosa Oolong @ .40
- ----
- Average cost .40
-
-
-No. 5.
-
-Is a combination that is considered quite unique in itself by many
-Tea-drinkers.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Sun-dried Japan @
- 10 Moyune Young Hyson @
- 10 Choice Foochow Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In China Green Teas Moyunes will be found the most valuable and
-satisfactory for all blending purposes, the finer grades particularly
-yielding a rich straw-colored liquor, very delicate and aromatic in
-flavor, and at the same time possessing a pungency somewhat resembling
-that of a choice Formosa Oolong in character.
-
-
-CHINA AND JAPAN TEA BLENDS.
-
-The following blends cannot be surpassed or even matched in strength
-and flavor by any tea of either kind when used alone:--
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Ning-chow Congou @
- 2 Basket-fired Japan @
- 5 Foochow Oolong @
- 5 Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 2.
-
-The appended formula makes a splendid cup of Tea for such consumers as
-may desire an all black blend:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moning Congou @
- 1 Basket-fired Japan @
- 8 Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 3.
-
-A blend like the following will be found to give very general
-satisfaction, being rich, full and strong, yet piquant and pleasing and
-entirely foreign to any other Tea in general use:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Pan-fired Japan @
- 1 Moyune Imperial @
- 6 Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 4.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Sun-dried Japan @
- 2 Basket-fired Japan @
- 6 Foochow Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 5.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moning Congou @
- 1 Basket-fired Japan @
- 1 Moyune Imperial @
- 3 Foochow Oolong @
- 4 Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In addition to these a blend composed of equal parts of a medium grade
-Pan-fired Japan and a plain dark-drawing Foochow Oolong forms an
-excellent combination at a moderate price. And a fair Pakeong Young
-Hyson and a choice Sun-dried Japan yields an excellent liquor for those
-desiring an all Green Tea blend.
-
-
-INDIA AND CHINA TEA BLENDS.
-
-In the appended combinations only from three to four component parts
-are given for each blend, as the dealer should not attempt to mix more
-of these sorts until he has become thoroughly acquainted with their
-peculiarities or educated his trade up to their use:--
-
-
-No. 1.
-
-Intended for a very low-priced tea.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Common Moning Congou @ .15
- 2 Common Kaisow Congou @ .15
- 2 Broken-leaf Assam @ .15
- ----
- Average cost .15
-
-This is a good combination where the water is hard, as it is in many
-sections of the country, the sweetness of the Moning and briskness of
-the Kaisow being unequalled for all low-priced blends.
-
-
-No. 2
-
-Is another excellent combination, answering the same purpose:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Saryune Congou @
- 1 Paklin Congou @
- 3 Assam Congou @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-Strength not appearance should be the test of the Teas forming this
-blend, and if Assam Souchong is cheaper it may be used to better
-advantage.
-
-
-No. 3
-
-Is composed of
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Suey-kut Congou @
- 1 Lapsing Souchong @
- 3 Rough Pungent Assam @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-A fine Kintuck or Kiukiang Congou may be used with equal advantage in
-this blend if the Suey-kut is difficult to obtain.
-
-
-No. 4.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Paklin Congou @
- 2 Ning-chow Congou @
- 2 Darjeeling Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The chief feature of this combination is its delicacy of flavor,
-the Paklin imparting a deep rich color to the liquor, the Ning-chow
-enriching the flavor, and the Darjeeling adding weight and strength to
-the entire blend.
-
-
-No. 5
-
-Makes a very good medium-priced Tea, one nearly always sure of
-appreciation among a foreign population:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Fruity Moning Congou @
- 1 Souchong-flavored Kaisow @
- 3 Pungent Cachar Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The latter must be strong and grippy in order to give strength and
-fullness to the other component parts of this combination.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In the blending of India Teas alone the best results are obtained
-from a combination of equal parts of the Assam, Cachar and Darjeeling
-sorts, a good plan being to mix three to five of these Teas together. A
-leading and popular blend is composed of a strong, thick Assam, a brisk
-and pungent Cachar, with a ripe, juicy Deradoon and a fine flavored
-Darjeeling or soft character Kangra to impart a distinctive feature to
-the combination.
-
-
-INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN BLENDS.
-
-In the blending of India, China and Japan Teas the dealer must use
-extreme caution, as the combining of these varieties is comparatively
-a new departure among American Tea consumers.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Assam Pekoe @
- 1 Formosa Oolong @
- 3 Basket-fired Japan @
- 10 Foochow Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 2.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Assam Souchong @
- 5 Foochow Oolong @
- 5 Sun-dried Japan @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 3.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moning Congou @
- 2 Assam Souchong @
- 7 Foochow Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 4.
-
-The annexed combination has proven to be a very popular Tea in many
-sections of Philadelphia and vicinity:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Pan-fired Japan @
- 1 Moyune Imperial @
- 1 Choice Assam @
- 6 Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 5.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Broken-leaf Assam @
- 2 Kaisow Congou @
- 10 Ning-yong Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In this latter combination both the Ning-yong and Kaisow Congou must
-be clean; that is, as free from dust as possible at the price, and
-fairly heavy in body. The Assam being added to impart tone, character
-and flavor to the whole, it should be fresh and strong, and while a
-little coarseness may be tolerated in it, an earthy-flavored one must
-be avoided.
-
-
-INDIA AND CEYLON BLENDS.
-
-The blending of India and Ceylon Teas is chiefly confined to equal
-parts of each. The lower grades being generally composed of Broken-leaf
-and Fannings.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Ceylon Pekoe @
- 8 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 2.
-
-An excellent blend of these varieties is composed of
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 5 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @
- 5 Ceylon Pekoe-Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-This combination will please the most fastidious drinkers of these
-Teas.
-
-
-No. 3.
-
-Makes a very pleasing Tea for consumers who prefer these growths to any
-other.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Ceylon Silver-Pekoe @
- 2 Ceylon Golden-Pekoe @
- 6 India Pekoe-Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-Broken-leaf India and Ceylon Teas are especially useful for all
-blending purposes, and a judicious use of these grades--of say two
-parts to ten of the other kinds--will often give the dealer an
-advantage of from four to six cents per pound in addition to greatly
-improving the blend, more particularly when the other Teas are leafy
-and free from dust. But all low-grade India and Ceylon Teas that
-possess a burnt, baked, sour or raw flavor, must be avoided.
-
-
-INDIA, CHINA AND CEYLON BLENDS.
-
-In all combinations of India, Ceylon and China Teas the average
-quantity of the former kinds used should be from one-fifth to one-sixth.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Ceylon Souchong @
- 1 Assam Souchong @
- 5 China Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 2.
-
-A blend like the following will be found to yield a strong, rich and
-fragrant infusion for customers desiring Ceylon and India Teas:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Assam Pekoe @
- 1 Choice Ceylon Souchong @
- 5 Choice Formosa Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 3.
-
-But if a rich, heavy-bodied and aromatic Tea is required to please a
-taste difficult to suit, the appended formula is recommended:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 Ceylon Pekoe @
- 2 Assam Souchong @
- 6 Foochow Oolong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The Oolong used in this formula must possess pungency and high-flavor,
-the addition of the Ceylon imparting a “toastiness,” the Assam
-furnishing “maltiness” and strength to the entire combination.
-
- * * * * *
-
-For a very cheap Tea a low-priced Mohea Oolong and Broken-leaf Assam,
-both costing about 15 cents, and blended in equal proportions, cannot
-be excelled by any single Tea at 30 cents when used alone. This
-combination gives better satisfaction to Tea-drinkers of this grade and
-costs much less.
-
-
-SCENTED TEA BLENDS.
-
-Among English and Scotch Tea consumers Scented Teas are used very
-largely in nearly all combinations, and more especially in those of the
-lower-priced blends; but where this is done it is always best to use
-only Moning Congous for the foundation Tea of the blend, as Scented
-Teas combine far better with Monings than with Kaisows. One of the
-most common errors in Tea blending, however, is that a certain large
-portion of Scented Teas, when combined with any other variety--no
-matter how flat, rough or astringent the latter may be--will make a
-blend not only palatable but pleasing. This is an illusion, as Scented
-Teas of themselves cannot master or overpower commonness or supply
-lack of strength to any Tea or Teas which does not already possess
-it. But while it is admitted that a small quantity may improve any
-blend, if too freely or injudiciously used it will make the combination
-thin, and, in addition, unless the Scented Tea has been well selected,
-the blend will probably taste heavy in the cup. When Scented Caper
-is used too freely in a blend special care must be taken to obtain
-a very heavy-bodied Tea for the foundation, it being best to add
-thick-liquoring Indias, as otherwise a too plentiful use of Caper will
-make the infusion thin and bitter.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
-For use only in Scented Tea districts or among Irish, English and
-Scotch Tea consumers.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Moning Congou @
- 1 Assam Souchong @
- 1 Scented Caper @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-Should this combination be too light in draw, two pounds or parts of
-the Congou may be used or the Assam increased half a pound or part.
-
-
-No. 2.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1/4 Scented Flowery Pekoe @
- 1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @
- 4 Saryune Congou @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In this combination the Assam must be strong and pungent and the Congou
-selected for its sweetness and briskness, and both free from coarseness
-and should be neither thin or sour.
-
-
-No. 3.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1/4 Scented Orange Pekoe @
- 1 Padrae Souchong @
- 2 Assam Souchong @
- 2 Moning Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-This combination is of great strength and intended only for those who
-prefer a heavy dark-liquored Tea, as it is much too strong to please
-the average taste.
-
-
-No. 4.
-
-The following combinations are very popular among English Tea consumers
-in this country, and will be found to suit the average taste for
-scented Tea-blends.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Formosa Oolong @
- 1 Orange Pekoe @
- 2 Assam Pekoe @
- 2 China Souchong @
- 4 Kaisow Congou @
- 6 Moning Congou @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The base or foundation of this blend, as will be noticed, is composed
-of Moning Congou, the Souchong enriching it, and the Kaisow being added
-to give it the requisite flavor, the Pekoe imparting aroma, and the
-Oolong smoothness, while the Assam adds body, sharpness and pungency to
-the whole.
-
-
-No. 5.
-
-Another very similar scented Tea-blend that may be prepared cheaper,
-but which will not prove quite as satisfactory, is composed as
-follows:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Foochow Oolong @
- 1 Orange Pekoe @
- 1 Scented Caper @
- 2 Assam Congou @
- 2 China Souchong @
- 6 Kaisow Congou @
- 6 Moning Congou @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The Moning Congou forming the base of this combination not possessing
-the strength and flavor of these used in the first, an extra quantity
-of Assam is required to tone them up. The equal proportion of Kaisow
-imparting a richer flavor as well as toning down the high toast of the
-Assam used in it, the Pekoe giving an aroma or “bouquet” to the entire
-blend.
-
-
-ENGLISH TEA BLENDS.
-
-Blended Teas are the rule in England, where the skillful mixing of
-Teas has become a science; very little, if any, Tea being sold to
-consumers in its original state, every dealer, both wholesale and
-retail, being noted for or identified with some unique or particularly
-flavored blend of Tea. The majority of these combinations, although
-markedly distinct and differing widely in flavor and almost opposite
-in character, are skillfully combined, the greatest care being taken
-that no Tea is introduced into a blend that may act detrimentally upon
-the others forming the combination, which proves that no matter how
-great the divergence in the Teas whenever knowledge and judgment is
-brought to bear on the subject success is sure to follow. And, again,
-that, although most of the combinations are exceedingly popular, there
-is still ample room for the introduction of new ones as well as for
-improvement on those in use at present. But the knowledge and skill
-displayed by English Tea dealers in this particular branch of their
-business is only attained by frequent tests and experiments, that
-is, by generally mixing together from three to five samples of Tea
-differing in variety, grade and character, and alternately changing
-and substituting the qualities and quantities until they eventually
-succeed in producing a Tea at a more moderate price, identified with
-themselves, and more satisfactory to their customers, in addition to
-differing in every respect from the Teas offered by their competitors.
-
-
-No. 1.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Fruity Moning Congou @
- 1 Fine Ceylon Congou @
- 1 Fine Assam Congou @
- 1 Fine Scented Caper @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The Moning should be thick and heavy in liquor and also the Ceylon,
-while the Caper must be highly scented.
-
-
-No. 2.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Oopack Congou @
- 1 Ceylon Congou @
- 1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @
- 1 China Scented Caper @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In this blend the Oopack must not be thin, “woody” or old, while the
-Caper should be selected more for its high scent and strength rather
-than its style. The Ceylon Congou heavy in draw and the Pekoe-Souchong
-strong and pungent.
-
-
-No. 3.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Ceylon Congou @
- 1 Ning-chow Congou @
- 1 Broken-leaf Assam @
- 1 Darjeeling Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The Ceylon Congou should be heavy and strong, the Ning-chow round and
-full, the Assam pungent and the Darjeeling possess as much character as
-possible at the price.
-
-
-No. 4.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Chingwo Congou @
- 1 Ceylon Souchong @
- 1 Darjeeling Pekoe-Souchong @
- 1 Assam Orange Pekoe @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The Chingwo must be first crop if obtainable, and the Ceylon thin,
-while the Indias should be rich, ripe and free from all coarseness.
-
-
-No. 5
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Oonfa Congou @
- 1 Kaisow Congou @
- 1 Darjeeling Pekoe @
- 1 Assam Souchong @
- 1 Ceylon Golden-Pekoe @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In this combination the Congous must be full and rich, and if a little
-“tarry” in flavor the better, but must not be old or sour.
-
-
-No. 6.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Kintuck Congou @
- 1 Ceylon Congou @
- 1 China Flowery Pekoe @
- 1 Assam Orange Pekoe @
- 1 Darjeeling Pekoe-Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-Both the Congous must be first crop or of good grade, the China Pekoe
-highly scented and the India Pekoes thick in liquor and pungent in
-flavor.
-
-
-No. 7.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Oonfa Congou @
- 1 Chingwo Congou @
- 1 Foochow Oolong @
- 1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @
- 1 China Scented Caper @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-All tarriness and sourness must be avoided in the Congous, the Foochow
-heavy-bodied and the Caper full-scented, while the India must be of
-high grade and strength.
-
-
-No. 8.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Kaisow Congou @
- 1 Moning Congou @
- 1 China Orange Pekoe @
- 1 Assam Orange Pekoe @
- 1 Darjeeling Orange Pekoe @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-The Moning must be light and fragrant, the Kaisow, Souchong-flavored,
-the Assam full and rich, the Darjeeling fairly pungent and of good
-quality, while the China Pekoe should be very high scented.
-
-
-No. 9.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Kaisow Congou @
- 1 Ning-chow Congou @
- 1 Lapsing Souchong @
- 1 Ceylon Orange Pekoe @
- 1 Assam Orange Pekoe @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In this combination the Congous should be fairly thick and fruity, the
-Souchong heavy and a little “tarry,” the Ceylon smooth and the India
-pungent in liquor.
-
-
-No. 10.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Ning-chow Congou @
- 1 Chingwo Congou @
- 2 Darjeeling Pekoe @
- 6 Broken-leaf Assam @
- or
- 6 Broken-leaf Ceylon @
- ----
- Average cost
-
- * * * * *
-
-Many of the Tea-blends in use in England, although differing widely
-in liquor and flavor, are most skillfully combined, the greatest
-caution being taken that no Tea is introduced in them that may in any
-way act detrimentally upon any of the other Teas forming the blend.
-As stated above, the majority of these English blends are markedly
-distinct in cup-qualities, in fact, almost diametrically opposite, the
-chief feature of one being a rich, ripe Tea, that of another being
-an even-leafed, delicate-flavored Tea, while the foundation of the
-third is composed of a plain grade, to which is added a rough, coarse
-or broken Tea, in order to increase its body or give point to the
-combination, a small quantity of some good, sweet, low-priced kind
-being frequently introduced to reduce the cost. Again, after the
-English Tea dealer has once succeeded in producing a popular flavored
-Tea, he is most careful to keep the component parts of the blend as
-uniform as possible, and never permits even his employees to know of
-what Teas his combination is formed. He thus becomes celebrated for
-keeping a flavor and character of Tea that cannot be procured elsewhere
-at any price, and when once his customers becomes educated to that
-especial flavor they are sure to return again and again for it.
-
-
-RUSSIAN TEA BLENDS.
-
-The Russians, who are a nation of Tea drinkers and use as much tea per
-head as the Chinese themselves, consume principally China Souchongs
-and the better grades of Congous, their blends and combinations being
-chiefly composed of these varieties, so that in sections populated with
-Russians, Russian Jews and Poles the appended specimens will suffice
-for their use:--
-
-
-No. 1.
-
-Intended for a cheap, strong, full-bodied Tea is composed of
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Common Moning Congou @
- 1 Common Kaisow Congou @
- 3 Common Lapsing Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 2.
-
-A good, heavy-bodied medium Tea is formed as follows:--
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Padrae Congou @
- 1 Assam Pekoe-Souchong @
- 3 Lapsing Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 3.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 Kaisow Congou @
- 1 Ning-chow Congou @
- 1 China Orange Pekoe @
- 3 Lapsing Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 4.
-
-Latterly, however, India and Ceylons are coming more into use in this
-country with this class of trade, so that combinations of China, India
-and Ceylons, such as the following, are very popular among them.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 2 India Congou @
- 4 Lapsing Souchong @
- 4 Ceylon Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-
-No. 5.
-
- Parts. Varieties. Price.
-
- 1 India Souchong @
- 1 Ceylon Souchong @
- 6 Lapsing Souchong @
- ----
- Average cost
-
-In Russia the Samovar, or tea pot, is always steaming, and the natives
-never cease drinking tea while there is water left to prepare it.
-It is served at all hours of the day, in palace as well as hovel;
-shops abound for its sale in all the principal cities, all business
-transactions being made and sealed over steaming goblets of Tea.
-But however great the number or wide the divergence in the liquors
-and flavors of the combinations here given, wherever knowledge and
-judgment is brought to bear on the subject, success is sure to follow
-the efforts of the dealer; and although the majority of the foregoing
-blends have been found exceedingly good by actual experience, there is
-still ample room for other combinations by the progressive Tea-blender
-as well as for great improvements upon those that are presented here.
-
-
-RULES FOR SUCCESSFUL TEA BLENDING.
-
-The great art of successful Tea blending consists in the combining of
-quality, strength, pungency with some particular liquor and distinct
-flavor so as to please the greatest number of consumers for whom the
-blend is intended, and at the same time to arrange the component parts
-in such a manner that this result may be attained at the smallest
-possible cost to the dealer. In order to accomplish this object
-three important points are necessary: (1.) The dealer must study to
-understand the tastes and preferences of his customers for whom the
-blend is to be prepared. (2.) He must learn to know which varieties and
-grades of Tea that will combine best to please this taste, and (3.) He
-must learn to know how far the component parts of each blend can be
-varied when required without seriously affecting its uniformity, so
-that he may be the better enabled to take advantage of the cheapness of
-any special grade of Tea in the market.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In the blending of China Congous it will be found most desirable to
-avoid the mixing of Teas of a heavy, strong or coarse description, such
-as “Red-Leaf” Teas of the Padrae and Saryune sorts with those of a
-highly flavored and delicate character, such as Monings and Chingwos,
-as to blend Teas of such markedly different characters will be found
-beneficial to neither. This rule also applies to Formosa Oolongs and
-the Congou sorts, as the briskness of the lower and livelier Tea
-is marred by the softness of the more delicate and flavory Tea in
-the combination, while the body of the former will be spoiled by the
-delicacy of the latter.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The importance of retaining all blends regular and uniform--when
-once they have been adopted and proven satisfactory--cannot be
-overestimated, as what Tea dealer can expect continued success if
-his blends consist one week or month of fine, flavory Teas, the next
-of heavy, dull-liquored Teas, and the third of a sharp, pungent or
-astringent character? Each new combination may possess good qualities
-of its own, all its component parts be skillfully and judiciously
-arranged and the mixing performed with the greatest care, but unless
-one or more good blends is decided on and then closely adhered to
-complaints will be made by the customers if they do not go elsewhere.
-To obtain this necessary uniformity is sometimes very difficult for
-the dealer, as no two invoices of Tea will be found exactly alike in
-all respects; and although Teas may be selected of about the same
-grade and quality, even chosen from those grown in the same district
-and blended in exactly the same proportions as in the combination they
-are intended to replace, the divergence may still be so great as to
-cause dissatisfaction among the customers. This variation may best be
-avoided by not changing more than one of the Teas composing the blend
-at the same time, so that when a number of Teas are used in a blend
-the alteration of any one of them--providing that particular one is
-fairly matched--will make but a comparatively small difference in the
-combination. If the changes in the various Teas forming the blend are
-thus made gradually, few, if any, of the customers will detect the
-slight alteration in the blend.
-
-Scoops or other measures must not be relied on in the proper blending
-of Teas; _scales and weights must be invariably used_ if the dealer
-wants to be precise and successful in the business. For if it is worth
-his time and trouble to test a number and variety of Teas in order
-that he may select the most suitable for the purpose, and then study
-how to arrange them in the best and most advantageous proportions, it
-certainly is worth the little extra time and trouble of not marring
-the qualities of his combinations by an injudicious and hap-hazard
-muddling of the quantities of the various parts composing the blends.
-This advantage of _weighing_ the Teas for blending is not excelled even
-by the advantages gained by the careful and judicious selection of the
-Teas for blending purposes.
-
- * * * * *
-
-All Teas after being blended should be allowed to stand in the caddie
-or bin, tightly closed, for from a week to ten days before dispensing,
-in order that the different Teas composing the blends may have
-sufficient time to assimilate and to exchange or impart their opposite
-flavors to each other. For should they not be allowed to thus stand,
-and the Tea be used just as soon as the blend is prepared, first one
-and then another of its component parts will predominate in too great
-a proportion, by which the time and trouble that has been taken in
-arranging the blend will have been to a large extent wasted and thrown
-away; while if the mixture be allowed to remain in the bin or caddie as
-directed, it will eventually become as one Tea and be always regular
-and uniform in quality and flavor.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Good, clean and sweet low-grade Teas being nearly always to be had
-for a few cents per pound above the price of the cheap, trashy Teas
-now offered on the American market, it is only folly for the dealer
-to purchase the latter, as they are not cheap at any price, as by the
-supposed saving of these few cents in the pound, the seed is not only
-sown for the future ruin of the individual dealer, but it also disgusts
-the public with Tea as an article of food, while on the other hand if
-the Tea dealer will make a comparatively small but requisite sacrifice
-for the sake of future gain, complete satisfaction will be given to his
-customers, the trade in Tea will be fostered and increased, and a great
-impetus given to its consumption by a discriminating public.
-
- * * * * *
-
-A blend of Tea should never have its cost reduced by the introduction
-of a grade coarser in nature than that of a majority of the Teas
-forming the combination, so that low-grade Teas when used for reducing
-the cost of the blend should be as full, plain and sweet as possible.
-This is advisable for the reason that a Tea of such a pronounced
-character will more or less stamp its own impression upon any blend
-into which it may be introduced. Again, should the lowest-priced Tea in
-a blend be a Tea of a marked or inferior character, instead of its being
-absorbed by the other Teas in the blend, its disagreeable features will
-stand out prominently among them, while the superior qualities of the
-finer grades will be--if not entirely obliterated--yet so injured as to
-be scarcely recognizable. While if the component parts of the blend be
-so well arranged that the most powerful Tea constituting it be also the
-highest grade Tea, the effect produced is that the other Teas in it are
-raised to its level, but if the powerful Tea is one of the low-priced
-Teas the others naturally reduce to its standard.
-
-Early picked or “first-crop” Teas should always be chosen when possible
-to obtain for blending purposes, as first-crop Teas are always superior
-to the later pickings in flavor and aroma, in the greater amount of
-_Theine_ (the active principle of Tea) which they contain as well as in
-their keeping qualities and blending properties, in fact, in everything
-except body for which Tea is deemed valuable; but in addition to
-selecting first-crop Teas for high-grade blends, it will be found
-advisable each season to ascertain the district yielding the best
-product, thus making quality as well as quantity the test of success,
-for as with wheat and other crops the Tea crop varies considerably
-according to the season, some years it is very good in one province or
-district while in others it may prove a comparative failure; thus one
-year a certain crop of Tea may be heavy and strong in liquor and flavor
-and next thin, weak and flavorless, while other “chops” that have been
-lacking in these qualities last year may possess the most desirable
-qualities this year. All varieties of Tea are equally subject to
-these variations, so that the advantages to be derived from a careful
-utilization of the best district crops of the year with but slight
-consideration will be very manifest to the dealer himself.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The tastes in Tea of different communities varying widely, the dealer
-should study and learn the particular kind and flavor best adapted
-to the district or locality in which he is doing business, as a Tea
-that may suit one class of consumers will not sell at all in another,
-so that the dealer himself should ascertain by repeated trials what
-variety or grade of Tea best suits his own particular trade. This
-object can best be accomplished by a series of experiments with the
-numerous kinds of Tea, and then noting and adopting the character
-and flavor of the Tea or Teas that gives the best satisfaction in
-price and quality to a majority of his patrons. Before proceeding to
-give formulas for any specific combinations it will be well for the
-dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend
-satisfactorily as well as those which will assimilate best with each
-other, for it must not be forgotten for a moment by the dealer that
-_Tea if not improved is certain to be injured by blending_. But it
-is much easier for him to learn what Teas to avoid than what Teas to
-select, and what are best adapted to his particular trade.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Generally in a thickly-populated manufacturing and mining district, or
-among all working classes in this country, heavy-bodied, sweet-drawing
-Amoy and dark-leaved, strong Foochow Oolongs will prove the most
-popular Teas for the base or foundation of all blends, while in a
-district composed chiefly of Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers,
-Congous, Souchongs and the better grades of India and Ceylon Teas
-will be found to give the best satisfaction. In neighborhoods made up
-of Polish and Russian Jews, low-grade, dark-drawing, thick-liquored
-Congous and Souchongs, or combinations of these two varieties alone,
-will be found the most satisfactory, being known to them as Russian
-Teas, from the fact that these are the only sorts used among Russian
-Tea drinkers.
-
- * * * * *
-
-For the base of the best blends or for flavoring purposes among purely
-American Tea consumers a really choice Formosa Oolong will be found an
-exceedingly valuable Tea, as a small quantity of fine or even tolerably
-good Formosa Tea will permeate and taste through any combination,
-and most Tea drinkers, when once they become accustomed to its unique
-flavor, will rarely be pleased with any other Tea afterwards. The
-dried leaf of the choicer grades is small and artistically made,
-yellowish-black in color, while the infused leaf is bright green and
-uniform. The liquor is of a rich straw color, its value consisting in
-a combination of piquancy, pungency and delicate aroma.
-
- * * * * *
-
-To successfully accomplish the building up of a profitable and
-permanent Tea business three things are requisite: (1.) The dealer must
-keep the best Teas obtainable at the most popular prices. (2.) He must
-let the public know by advertising or other means that he keeps them.
-(3.) It is also most important that all standard blends should possess
-some distinct or characteristic flavor by which it may be readily
-recognized by those who use it. But at the same time there is very
-little use in advertising or making known a Tea that does not possess
-intrinsic merit, as merit without some publicity makes but slow headway
-in these progressive times.
-
- * * * * *
-
-One of the principal objects to keep in view in forming a Tea-blend
-is that it will come out well in the water in which it is to be
-infused; that it shall possess a flavor that will please the taste of a
-majority of the customers and at the same time be of such a distinctive
-character as to make the combination your own particular specialty. But
-it must be borne in mind that Teas draw quite differently in hard and
-soft water, and the dealer’s object should be to offer only the best
-possible Tea for the money expended. He should also avoid those kinds
-which are unsuitable to the water of his locality.
-
-Soft water has a great advantage over hard in the testing and
-preparation of Tea for use, so that many parts of the country possess
-an advantage over others in the use of Tea, as wherever the water is
-soft and pure far better results are obtained from an infusion of a
-given quantity of leaves than can be produced from the hard water of
-other sections. This difference arises from the now well-established
-fact that soft water dissolves a greater percentage of the theine--the
-active principle of Tea--than hard water, thus causing its properties
-to become more apparent, the coarseness as well as fineness being
-brought out to a greater extent by the action of the soft water in all
-cases, and consequently the too highly-fired and brisk-burnt Teas so
-much in favor in some sections of the country for low-priced blends are
-not liked at all in the sections where soft water alone is to be had.
-For this reason, also, Teas of the Congou and Souchong order are most
-appreciated where the water is soft, as the natural delicacy of their
-flavor is best extracted by soft water and in even greater proportions
-than is the flavor of the other varieties known to trade.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In testing Teas by infusion or drawing for blending, four important
-facts must be borne in mind by the dealer: (_1._) _The water used for
-drawing them should be as soft and pure as can be obtained or filtered
-before using._ (_2._) _It must be boiled as rapidly as possible and
-used only at the boiling point, and_ (_3._) _It must be boiling, but
-must not overboil_, for should it be allowed to overboil for even a
-few minutes it will not extract the full strength and aroma from the
-leaves. All Tea experts are most particular on these points, so much so
-that they have the kettle watched in order that the water may be poured
-on the Tea the moment it boils, and if any water remains in the kettle
-it is immediately poured away, as the effect of using water that has
-been boiled a second time is the same as that of water that has been
-permitted to overboil. Should the buyer, from neglect or indifference,
-use water that has not been boiled, the leaves in the cup will float
-on top and not sink to the bottom as in the case of boiling water,
-and should the water be overboiled or boiled a second time it will
-be readily detected by its appearance in the cup, the infusion being
-thin and insipid and of a peculiar, sickly color. (4.) The infusion
-should be allowed to draw from four to six minutes, according to the
-variety of Tea under treatment, that is, China and Japan Teas, five to
-six minutes, while India, Ceylon and Java Teas require only three to
-four minutes, owing to the great excess of tannin which they contain.
-But all the properties of the Tea that can be dissolved in the cup is
-fully extracted in from three to four minutes, five to six minutes
-being generally sufficient for all Teas, as the infusion is then at
-its best, but from that time on the Tea gradually loses its aroma and
-flavor until, if allowed to stand for half an hour, it becomes dull and
-insipid. Another important point must here be noted by the dealer, it
-is that a good Tea becomes better as it cools, while a poor Tea becomes
-poorer under the same conditions.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The leaves of a choice, pure Tea will be found, after infusion, to be
-of a medium and uniform size, perfectly formed and unbroken and of a
-bright-green or dark-brown, according to the kind of Tea tested, that
-is, Oolongs, Green and Japan Teas will be greenish, while Congous,
-Souchongs, India, Ceylon and Java Teas will be dark-brown in color. All
-Teas of the Oolong varieties are subject to the same rules in judging
-them, and the same rules that govern in testing Green Teas will also
-apply to Japans. While the selection of Indias, Ceylons and Teas of the
-China-Congou sorts are also governed by similar rules in testing and
-selecting.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Still another important point for the dealer to keep in mind is the
-necessity of securing Teas that will draw well in the water of his
-district. To aid in this selection the following kinds are suggested:--
-
-~For Very Hard Water~--Padrae, Saryune and strong, “tarry” Oonfa
-Congous are best, also Indias of the Assam variety and heavy-drawing
-Ceylons, including broken-leaf Pekoes are best adapted.
-
-~For Medium Hard Water~--Flavory India Teas, including Cachars,
-Darjeeling and Ceylons of all kinds, first crop Panyongs and rich,
-thick, round Keemun Congous, Oolongs, Japans and Green Teas of all
-grades.
-
-~For Soft Water~--All varieties and grades of Oolong, Green, Scented
-and Japan Teas, Ningchow, Paklin and Chingwo Congous, light-drawing
-Indias and Ceylons of nearly all kinds as well as all descriptions of
-high-flavored Teas.
-
-
-
-
-PART VI.
-
-ART OF KEEPING, SELLING AND PREPARING TEA.
-
-
-The utmost care is necessary in the keeping and handling of Tea in
-order to prevent from deteriorating in strength and flavor or otherwise
-decaying until disposed of. It should therefore whenever possible be
-kept by itself in a moderately warm temperature and always covered
-over until required, and when any of the packages have been opened and
-the contents not all removed, care must be taken to replace the lead
-lining, lid and matting, so as to exclude the dust and damp as well as
-all foreign odors that may surround it. For this reason also Tea should
-never be exposed in windows or at store-doors where the air, damp and
-dust surely and rapidly destroy all semblance to its original condition.
-
- * * * * *
-
-All Teas when once they have ripened and become seasoned commence to
-decay, but there is a vast difference in the time that some varieties
-will last before the deterioration becomes objectionable in comparison
-with others. Some kinds, such as Foochow and Formosa Oolongs, keeping
-for a year or more. China Congous and Souchongs and Japan Teas from
-six to eight months, while Scented Teas, India and Ceylon Teas, after
-a much briefer period become dull and brackish, and it frequently
-happens that when the latter are a year old they are worth only half
-their original cost.
-
- * * * * *
-
-All Teas possessing a natural aptitude to become impregnated with
-foreign flavor of any product placed near it, and to absorb the foul
-odors by which they may be surrounded, should be kept as far apart as
-possible from any high-smelling articles in the dealer’s stock--such as
-soap, fish, spices and oils of all kinds--as they very rapidly absorb
-any pungent odors that may be in their immediate vicinity. And Teas
-have even been known to completely alter their flavor and character by
-being placed too close to molasses, oranges and lemons, therefore it
-becomes important for the dealer not to keep Teas too near any product
-emitting a foul or strong aroma. For this reason also they should not
-be dispensed out of freshly-painted bins or caddies, it being much more
-preferable at all times to deal them out of the original lead-lined
-chests, replacing the lid until required. Again, Teas should never be
-mixed in rainy, damp or humid weather, as they are bound to absorb and
-be injured by the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere, nor must they
-be kept too near a fire or stove, a dry, cool atmosphere of moderate
-temperature being always best for them.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Of the numerous commodities dealt in by the grocer there is none so
-important as that of Tea, this importance being due to its value
-as a trade-making, trade-retaining and profit-producing article,
-particularly when furnished of such quality as to give permanent
-satisfaction to the general public as well as to the regular customer.
-But notwithstanding its importance in these respects there is no
-article handled by the grocer the quality and value of which is so
-little understood by the average dealer. Again assailed as the retail
-grocery business now is by keen competition from so many queer Teas,
-the necessity for a better knowledge of and more careful attention to
-the article is at once apparent if the grocer--to whom its sale of
-right belongs--is not to find the almost entire withdrawal of this
-article from his line of business.
-
- * * * * *
-
-To properly understand the selecting and blending of Teas is therefore
-to be possessed of a valuable and profitable knowledge; but while such
-proficiency is not within the scope of every dealer, the study of these
-points to any extent will prove not only lucrative but entertaining and
-instructive. And while it may be claimed that such a study will occupy
-too much valuable time, or that it is much more economical to purchase
-from the wholesale Tea blender, still the great importance of a better
-acquaintance with such knowledge and experience must be evident to the
-dealer. For the proper blending of Tea the dealer should be provided
-with a small kettle and other apparatus for filtering and boiling
-the water as conveniently and rapidly as possible. Small scales for
-weighing the samples of Tea to be tested, pots for drawing and cups for
-tasting, and so start from the beginning.
-
- * * * * *
-
-Samples of the Teas desired having been procured from different houses
-should then be drawn and tested and a careful examination made of the
-leaves of each, their size, color, condition and smell being closely
-noted. In such drawings all Teas of an objectionable character should
-be set aside, and those remaining on the boards carefully arranged
-in the order of their value; but should any doubt exist in giving a
-decision between the several samples as to their superiority, then
-the drawing should be repeated and the poorer ones rejected, thus
-narrowing down the contest to the best Teas. Again, where it proves
-difficult to decide between the cup qualities of those remaining,
-then the size, style, condition and weight of the dry leaf should
-be taken into consideration, which will be found helpful in making
-the required decision. The decision having been arrived at, however,
-the Tea considered best may also be higher in price than some others
-approximating to it in style and drawing qualities, and if it be found
-that it cannot be purchased except at a price considerably higher than
-others on the table approaching it closely, it will be better under
-such circumstances to select another Tea, grading second, or even
-third in quality, at a much lower figure. An excellent plan for the
-careful Tea blender is to have a “type” or standard sample of the Tea
-he desires to duplicate and which he has found to be satisfactory, and
-samples of Tea of the various kinds of known value should always be
-kept convenient for reference, and in air-tight tins, with their grade,
-price, character, chop mark and year of production marked thereon.
-
-
-ART OF SELLING TEA.
-
-The dealer having succeeded in selecting and blending Teas that will
-please his customers, the next most important consideration for him
-is how best to bring them before the notice of his trade and the
-public generally. In this case he must not treat his Tea as a “staple”
-article, but as an entirely new commodity requiring a special effort
-for its introduction. Nothing gives such a bad impression to Tea
-customers as careless and slovenly packing of Tea. All Tea bags should
-be of fine quality and neatly, if not artistically, printed, and great
-care should be taken to obtain neatness of appearance in tying them
-up. The dealer should also have some special and appropriate name for
-his blends, this brand appearing prominently on the package, together
-with specific instructions for drawing the Tea. Small hand-bills,
-brief, pointed and attractive, describing the merits of the blend may
-also be placed in every purchase of other goods and sugar, and other
-bags or wrappers should contain special notices so that they may reach
-others who do not buy Tea, and the clerks or salesmen should also be
-instructed to talk up the Tea frequently but judiciously as possible.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The dealer should ascertain where customers for other goods get their
-Tea, what variety or grade it is, what price they pay for it, and, if
-possible, obtain a sample of it. Then test it carefully and be prepared
-to show that he can not only match it, but furnish a better one in both
-price and quality, giving them samples at the same time to prove it.
-And again, if a tea customer should quit dealing suddenly he should
-immediately find out the cause and endeavor to remedy it. He should
-also send out samples occasionally throughout the neighborhood of a
-line of Teas that he may deem suitable to the locality. But above and
-beyond all other efforts to increase his Tea trade, he should handle
-only high-grade Teas, endeavoring at all times to prove that the finer
-Teas are the most economical and satisfactory to purchase in the end,
-as the finer grades yield a larger margin of profit to the dealer and
-better satisfaction to the consumer, while it has a tendency to create
-favorable comment and win an increasing Tea trade.
-
-Latterly, a new development in the Tea trade has, to the surprise and
-loss of the older generation of retail grocers and Tea dealers, assumed
-quite a prominence, for, if the glowing advertisements and startling
-placards in stores and on fences form any criterion, the public are
-taking a liking to the cheap and trashy-blended Teas put up in tins,
-lead, paper and other Tea-deteriorating packages under fancy names
-which have no relation whatever to the variety, district or country
-where they are grown, it being an acknowledged principle that Teas
-blended in bulk and put back again in their original lead-lined chests
-undoubtedly keep better, preserving its strength and flavor longer
-than when exposed to the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere during
-its transference to the tin, lead or paper packets ornamented with a
-cheap and showy label, which the more gorgeous they are the more apt to
-communicate the taste of the ink, paste, glue or other foul-smelling
-material in which it is packed to the Tea they are intended to adorn.
-
- * * * * *
-
-And still another reason why the Grocer and Tea dealer should avoid
-these blended packet Teas is that the cost of the packages, labels and
-labor, adds from eight to ten cents per pound to the original price
-of the Tea, in addition to the cost of advertising and flaunting them
-before the eyes of the public, an expense which is simply enormous in
-itself, and which the dealer and consumer must eventually pay for,
-either by a higher price or inferior quality of the Tea. Again, engaged
-as most dealers are at the present time in trying to stop the plague
-of all sorts of proprietary goods put up in cheap and oftentimes
-ill-smelling packages, which yields them so little profit and makes
-them only the servants of the packers, it is astonishing, to say the
-least, that any dealer can be found to adopt the same system with Tea
-when they can put up some favorite blend, and pack it themselves in
-cleaner, cheaper and more stylish packages, if their customers should
-desire it in that form, and sell them under their own brand and name,
-and not work to make money and a reputation for others who dictate to
-him as to what he shall or shall not do with regard to selling Teas.
-For instance, you are paying 43 cents for Package Tea with premiums, if
-you handle it. You sell this Tea at 60 cents, making 17 cents per pound
-profit. Now by putting up your own blend and giving your own premiums
-you can buy just as good Tea, or better, for 20 cents per pound. You
-can buy just as good premiums to stand you 12 cents per pound, making
-32 cents instead of 43, or a saving of 11 cents or 33-1/3 per cent.
-Besides, you control your own Tea trade and have the advertising free.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The art of selling Tea is even a much more difficult one than that
-of buying, owing to the numerous different and varying tastes to be
-catered to. For this reason alone the dealer should learn all he
-possibly can about the article, in order that he may be enabled to
-suit each particular liking and at the same time answer any and all
-questions about it intelligently. Find out what grade and variety as
-well as the desired strength and flavor of the Tea your customers
-prefer, and occasionally give them small samples of the different
-blends to try until you have caught their taste. Make a note of same,
-and always afterwards endeavor to give them as near the same kind and
-quality. Talk up your Teas in a clear and practical manner, and be
-sure your scales, weights and scoops are always clean and shining, and
-keep a small memorandum book in which to mark the kind and retail
-prices of your Teas, the date in which the caddie has been filled
-and the quantity it holds, as this method gives an accurate idea
-of the quantity of Tea sold in a certain time, which will be found
-particularly useful when Blended Teas are largely sold.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In brief, advertise your Teas freely but judiciously and modestly,
-never claiming too much for them, that is, let your advertisements be
-brief but novel, and change the same at least once per week, and always
-push your high-grade Teas first, last and all the time. Now and then
-give a Tea-testing exhibit in your store by fixing up a space near
-the door or window as a Tea-room surrounded by Tea-boxes with fancy
-faces, hanging some Chinese or Japanese lanterns around with which to
-light up at night to attract attention. Inside of which place a small
-Tea-table, a small gas stove, with kettle and cups for drawing the Tea.
-By this means the dealer will be enabled to prepare fresh-made Tea at
-all times, with fresh-boiled water, of any kind the customer may desire
-to taste or to push the sale of any particular blend he may desire to
-introduce among his trade. But it is advisable at these exhibits to
-use only fine Teas, using the common grades only by way of comparison.
-By this means the dealer can conveniently and readily point out to the
-customer the great advantages to be gained and economy of purchasing
-only high-grade Teas. Instruct your patrons meantime how to properly
-prepare Tea for use, emphasizing the fact that Tea must be _brewed_ and
-not stewed, as is too often the case among consumers.
-
-
-ART OF PREPARING TEA FOR USE.
-
-It is singular, to say the least, that nothing is ever done by Tea
-dealers in this country to educate or enlighten their customers in the
-proper manner of preparing their Tea for use, to study the character of
-the water or to preserve its aromatic properties after purchasing. Good
-Tea, like good wine, can be kept intact for years with considerable
-advantage to the dealer and consumer alike, and there is no valid
-reason why consumers of Tea should not be as particular and fastidious
-as drinkers of wine. But to obtain a good cup of Tea, in the first
-place the consumer should purchase only the best Tea, it requiring much
-less of the finer grades to make good Tea than of the common kinds, and
-will prove the most economical in the end.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In the proper preparation of Tea for use, the quality of the infusion
-is much affected also by the character of the water as well as by the
-method of making or drawing it. Tea being an _infusion_ and not a
-_decoction_ like coffee, it should be _brewed_ not _stewed_, the chief
-object being to extract as much of the _theine_ or refreshing principle
-as possible and as little of the _tannin_ or astringent property as
-can be, at the same time without either boiling or overdrawing it.
-Many Tea drinkers who imagine erroneously that a very dark-colored
-liquor indicates strength boil the leaves, while others again spoil
-the infusion by first putting the leaves in boiling water. Some again
-place the leaves in cold water, and then put it, the vessel on the
-fire to boil, prolonged infusion being another serious mistake. All
-of these improper methods produce the same evil results, viz., that
-of extracting an increased amount of the tannin, thereby destroying
-the true color and flavor of the Tea by imparting a blackish color and
-giving a bitter or astringent taste to the liquor. When Tea has been
-once boiled or overdrawn, the increased quantity of tannin extracted
-can be readily detected by the extreme dark color of the liquor as
-well as by its bitterly astringent flavor. Another reprehensible
-practice of some Tea makers is that of adding fresh leaves into the tea
-pot with those that have been already once drawn, as it cannot add to
-either the strength or flavor of the Tea by putting more leaves in the
-tea pot after the first drawing, for the simple reason that the Tea
-water will not extract the _theine_ from the dry leaves of the fresh
-Tea. _Only fresh boiling water will do this effectually_, the water
-once used only increases the _amount_ of _tannin_ extracted, thereby
-darkening the color and destroying the flavor and merely adds to the
-quantity of leaves already in the vessel without at all affecting the
-active principle, theine. So that if it be required to increase the
-quantity or strength of the infusion already in the pot, some fresh Tea
-leaves must be drawn in a separate vessel and the liquor poured in that
-already made.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In the proper preparation of Tea for use, therefore, the object should
-be to extract as little of the tannin as possible and as much of the
-theine and volatile oil as can be extracted without permitting the
-infusion to boil or overdraw. To best obtain these most desirable
-results, put the requisite quantity of Tea leaves in a covered china
-or earthenware pot--all tin and metal vessels should be avoided--and
-pour in freshly boiling water that has been boiling for at least
-three minutes, and then allow the vessel to stand where it will keep
-hot, WITHOUT _boiling_, for from eight to ten minutes before serving,
-according to the variety of Tea used. There will be a sparkle and
-aroma about Tea made from fresh boiling water in this manner that it
-will not receive from the flat, hot water that has been boiled too
-long or repeatedly. In the stated time while the Tea is drawing only
-the refreshing and exhilarating properties--the theine and volatile
-oil--are extracted from the leaves, a longer infusion only dissolving
-and extracting the astringent and deleterious principle--tannic
-acid--which impairs digestion and injures the nervous system, for which
-causes alone all boiled or overdrawn Tea should be avoided.
-
- * * * * *
-
-An earthern tea pot made of Minton, Doulton, or Satsuma ware, is the
-best kind of vessel to prepare Tea in, but it must first be scalded out
-with boiling water before putting the Tea leaves in and then set on the
-range or stove to dry and keep hot for a few minutes. The Tea leaves
-are then put in, after which they are also allowed to heat for a short
-time before the boiling water is poured on them, from eight to ten
-minutes before the Tea is required for use. The character of the water
-also greatly influences the quality of the Tea, it being almost next to
-impossible to make good Tea with hard water, so that soft water should
-always be used when available, and any excess of lime in the water also
-deteriorates the infusion. But this latter difficulty may be easily
-remedied by the judicious addition of a little carbonate of soda, as
-much as will cover the face of a dime being sufficient for an ordinary
-drawing of Tea.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In moderate strength it requires about one teaspoonful of good tea to
-a half pint of boiling water and an ordinary half teacupful of leaves
-to every quart of boiling water, the latter making a fairly strong
-infusion for five persons. China and Japan Teas require from eight to
-ten minutes to draw thoroughly, the former requiring but little milk
-and sugar, while Japan Teas are more palatable without the addition
-of either. India Ceylon and Java Teas generally should not be allowed
-to draw more than from five to seven minutes at the outside after the
-boiling water has been poured on, as prolonged infusion makes the
-flavor of these varieties particularly mawkish and bitter, while the
-addition of an extra quantity of both milk and sugar greatly improves
-their drinking qualities.
-
-
-
-
-JOSEPH M. WALSH
-
-[Illustration]
-
-(America’s Greatest Tea Expert.--_Journal of Commerce_)
-
-IMPORTER OF
-
-[Illustration: Teas
-
-ALL VARIETIES AND GRADES]
-
-PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A.
-
-
-
-
- * * * * * *
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
-
-Prices are missing in many of the recipes in the book; this is as
-printed.
-
-
-The following apparent errors have been corrected:
-
-p. 11 "eggregious" changed to "egregious"
-
-p. 11 "kaleidescopic" changed to "kaleidoscopic"
-
-p. 20 "make color" changed to "make, color"
-
-p. 25 "course" changed to "coarse"
-
-p. 37 "course" changed to "coarse"
-
-p. 38 "juciest" changed to "juiciest"
-
-p. 38 "omitted" changed to "emitted"
-
-p. 39 "thiene" changed to "theine"
-
-p. 39 "value this" changed to "value, this"
-
-p. 39 "not accustomed" changed to "accustomed"
-
-p. 40 "loose" changed to "lose"
-
-p. 43 "to the the" changed to "to the"
-
-p. 46 "onced" changed to "once"
-
-p. 52 "intended that" changed to "intended, that"
-
-p. 54 "ridgidly" changed to "rigidly"
-
-p. 58 "similiar" changed to "similar"
-
-p. 60 "No 13." changed to "No. 13."
-
-p. 60 "Chociest" changed to "Choicest"
-
-p. 63 "of." changed to "of:--"
-
-p. 64 "Imperal" changed to "Imperial"
-
-p. 68 "together" changed to "together."
-
-p. 70 "varities" changed to "varieties"
-
-p. 71 "No 2." changed to "No. 2."
-
-p. 75 "science very" changed to "science; very"
-
-p. 77 "Pekoe-Sonchong" changed to "Pekoe-Souchong"
-
-p. 82 "(3)" changed to "(3.)"
-
-p. 83 "Teas, composing" changed to "Teas composing"
-
-p. 85 "character instead" changed to "character, instead"
-
-p. 89 "(_3_)" changed to "(_3._)"
-
-
-The following possible errors have not been changed:
-
-p. 9 fuller-liquied
-
-p. 52 at a moderate cost
-
-p. 57 .19
-
-
-Inconsistent punctuation has otherwise been left as printed.
-
-The following are inconsistently used in the text:
-
-Basketfired and Basket-fired
-
-Ningchow and Ning-chow
-
-Ningyong and Ning-yong
-
-Panfired and Pan-fired
-
-Sundried and Sun-dried
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEA-BLENDING AS A FINE ART***
-
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-******* This file should be named 50207-0.txt or 50207-0.zip *******
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