diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/50191-h/50191-h.htm')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/50191-h/50191-h.htm | 49556 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 49556 deletions
diff --git a/old/50191-h/50191-h.htm b/old/50191-h/50191-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index a3bb537..0000000 --- a/old/50191-h/50191-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,49556 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mrs. Beeton’s Dictionary of Every-day Cookery, by Isabella Beeton. - </title> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h4 { margin-bottom: 0; - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -h3 { - text-align: left; /* all headings centered */ - margin-bottom: 0; -} - - .faux { - font-size: 0.5em; /*this font size could be anything */ - visibility: hidden;} - -p { - margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - text-indent: 1.25em; - margin-bottom: .75em; -} - - - .maintitle {font-size: 200%; font-weight: bold; text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} - .copyright {text-align: center; font-size: 70%; text-indent: 0;} - .adtitle2 {font-size: 150%; font-weight: bold; text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} - .adtitle1 {font-size: 200%; font-weight: bold; text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} - .adtitle3 {font-size: 120%; font-weight: bold; text-align: left; margin-top: 2em; text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em;} - .author {font-size: 120%; text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} - .authorof {font-size: 70%; text-align: center; text-indent: 0; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0;} - .small {font-size: 70%;} - .courses {font-size: 40%; visibility: hidden;} - .big {font-size: 110%;} - .hang1 {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em;} - div.hangsection p {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 5em; margin-right: 1em;} - div.hangsection2 p {text-indent: -1em; margin-left: 3em; margin-right: 3em;} - div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} - - - img {border: 0;} - .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; - padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; text-indent: 0;} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; -} - -hr.tb {width: 45%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%} -hr.full {width: 95%;} - -ul.booklist { list-style-type: none; margin-left: 5%; } -ul.cuts { list-style-type: none; margin-left: 10%; } - - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry-container -{ - text-align: center; -} - -.poetry -{ - display: inline-block; - text-align: left; -} - -.poetry .stanza -{ - margin: 1em auto; -} - -.poetry .verse -{ - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 3em; -} - - - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - - - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - text-indent: 0;} /* page numbers */ - - - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - -.bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; - padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} -.bbox2 {border: solid 4px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; - padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} -.bbox3 {border: solid 1px; padding-right: .5em; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; - padding-left: .5em;} - -.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0;} - -/* Images */ -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; -} - -.figleft { - float: left; - clear: left; - margin-left: 0; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 1em; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; -} - -.figright { - float: right; - clear: right; - margin-left: 1em; - margin-bottom: - 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 0; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; -} - -.btlb {border-top: solid 1px; border-bottom: solid 1px; border-left: solid 1px;} - -/* Footnotes */ - .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} - .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; - position: relative; - bottom: 0.33em; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: none;} - - -/*Drop caps*/ -.drop-cap { - text-indent: 0em; - text-align: justify; -} -.drop-cap:first-letter -{ - float: left; - margin: 0.15em 0.1em 0em 0em; - font-size: 250%; - line-height:0.5em; -} - -img.drop-cap -{ - float: left; - margin: 0 0.5em 0 0; -} -.drop-capi { - text-indent: 0em; text-align: justify; -} -.drop-capi:first-letter -{ - color: transparent; - visibility: hidden; - margin-left: -0.9em; -} - -@media handheld -{ - .chapter - { - page-break-before: always; - } - - h2.no-break - { - page-break-before: avoid; - padding-top: 0; - } - - .poetry - { - display: block; - margin-left: 1.5em; - } - .drop-cap:first-letter - { - float: none; - margin: 0; - font-size: 100%; - } - - img.drop-cap - { - display: none; - } - - .drop-cap:first-letter - { - color: inherit; - visibility: visible; - margin-left: 0; - } - -} - - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mrs. Beeton's Dictionary of Every-Day -Cookery, by Isabella Mary Beeton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Mrs. Beeton's Dictionary of Every-Day Cookery - The "All About It" Books - -Author: Isabella Mary Beeton - -Release Date: October 13, 2015 [EBook #50191] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Malcolm Farmer, Emmy and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<h1 class="faux">MRS. BEETON’S DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY COOKERY.</h1> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 532px;"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="532" height="800" alt="Cover: this cover was created by adding colour to the original title page and is placed in the public domain." /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - - -<div class="maintitle"><i>MRS. BEETON’S</i><br /> - -DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY COOKERY.</div> -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<div class="bbox"> -<div class="center"><i>THE “ALL ABOUT IT” BOOKS</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 105px;"> -<img src="images/doodad.jpg" width="105" height="11" alt="doodad" /> -</div> - -<div class="maintitle">MRS. BEETON’S<br /> - -<span class="smcap">Dictionary<br /> - -<small>of</small><br /> - -Every-day Cookery.</span><br /><br /><br /></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 218px;"> -<img src="images/illus-logo.jpg" width="218" height="219" alt="logo: W, L and T " /> -</div> - -<div class="center"><br /><br /><br /> -LONDON:<br /> -WARD, LOCK, AND TYLER,<br /> -<small>WARWICK HOUSE, PATERNOSTER ROW.</small><br /> -</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - - -<div class="copyright"> -LONDON:<br /> -SAVILL, EDWARDS AND CO., PRINTERS. CHANDOS STREET,<br /> -COVENT GARDEN.<br /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2>PREFACE.</h2> - -<div class="hang1"> - -<i>The reasons for the publication of this Volume—the First of a Series of -Practical Manuals which were to be called the “All About It” Books—were -thus explained in a Prospectus issued a few months ago, and -approved by the late</i> Mrs. <span class="smcap">S. O. Beeton</span>:—</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/drop-m.jpg" width="58" height="58" alt="M" /> -</div> - -<p class="drop-capi">MANY wishes have been expressed to the Authoress -of the “Book of Household Management” that -a volume of Recipes in Cookery should be written -which could be sold at a price somewhere between -the seven-and-sixpenny “Household Management” and the -Shilling Cookery Book. Accordingly Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beeton</span> has prepared -a Collection of Recipes, and of other Practical Information -concerning the Dressing and Serving of Family Fare, -which, when completed, will be published, in serviceable -binding, at the price of Three Shillings and Sixpence.</p> - -<p>As Mistress, Cook, and Critic have declared that the -details in Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beeton’s</span> larger work are <i>so easy to understand</i>, -the Authoress has followed, in every Recipe printed in the -present Dictionary, the same simple plan she originally used. -Regarding, however, the <i>arrangement</i> of the Recipes, the -Authoress has chosen the Dictionary form, believing an -alphabetical arrangement to be the best for a book that is -being constantly referred to. By the adoption of a very -intelligible system, all <i>cross</i> reference, and that very disagreeable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span> -parenthesis (<i>See</i> So-and-so) is avoided, except in a -very few instances. Where any warning as to what should -<i>not</i> be done is likely to be needed, it is given, as well as -advice as to what ought to be done. No pains have been -thought too great to make <i>little things</i> clearly understood. -Trifles constitute perfection. It is just the knowledge or -ignorance of little things that usually makes the difference -between the success of the careful and experienced housewife -or servant, and the failure of her who is careless and inexperienced. -Mrs. <span class="smcap">Beeton</span> has brought to her new offering -to the Public a most anxious care to describe plainly and -fully all the more difficult and recondite portions of Cookery, -whilst the smallest items have not been “unconsidered -trifles,” but each Recipe and preparation have claimed minute -attention.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 245px;"> -<img src="images/illus-viii.jpg" width="245" height="52" alt="decoration" /> -</div> -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2>THE<br /> - -DICTIONARY OF COOKERY.</h2> - - -<h3>ALMOND CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of sweet almonds, -1 oz. of bitter almonds, 6 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls -of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls -of fine flour, the grated rind of -1 lemon, 3 oz. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -and pound the almonds to a paste; -separate the whites from the yolks of -the eggs; beat the latter, and add them -to the almonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, -and lemon-rind; add the butter, which -should be beaten to a cream; and, when -all these ingredients are well mixed, put -in the whites of the eggs, which should -be whisked to a stiff froth. Butter a -cake-mould, put in the mixture, and bake -in a good oven from 1¼ to 1¾ hour. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ -to 1¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ALMOND CHEESECAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of sweet almonds, -4 bitter ones, 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, the -rind of ¼ lemon, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -3 oz. of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -and pound the almonds smoothly in a -mortar, with a little rose or spring -water; stir in the eggs, which should be -well beaten, and the butter, which should -be warmed; add the grated lemon-peel -and juice, sweeten, and stir well until -the whole is thoroughly mixed. Line -some patty-pans with puff-paste, put in -the mixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or -rather less, in a quick oven. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes, or rather less. <i>Average cost</i>, -10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for about 12 cheesecakes.</p> - - -<h3>ALMOND PASTE, for Second-Course -Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of sweet almonds, -6 bitter ones, 1 lb. of very finely-sifted -sugar, the whites of 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -the almonds, and dry them -thoroughly; put them into a mortar, and -pound them well, wetting them gradually -with the whites of 2 eggs. When well -pounded, put them into a small preserving-pan, -add the sugar, and place -the pan on a small but clear fire (a hot -plate is better); keep stirring until the -paste is dry, then take it out of the pan, -put it between two dishes, and, when -cold, make it into any shape that fancy -may dictate. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> for the above quantity. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 small dishes of pastry. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ALMOND PUDDING, Baked (very -rich).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of almonds, 4 bitter -ditto, 1 glass of sherry, 4 eggs, the rind -and juice of ½ lemon, 3 oz. of butter, -1 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch and pound the -almonds to a smooth paste with the -water; mix these with the butter, which -should be melted; beat up the eggs, -grate the lemon-rind, and strain the -juice; add these, with the cream, sugar, -and wine, to the other ingredients, and -stir them well together. When well -mixed, put it into a pie-dish lined with -puff-paste, and bake for ½ hour. To -make this pudding more economically, -substitute milk for the cream; but then -add rather more than 1 oz. of finely-grated -bread. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -per pint. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ALMOND PUDDINGS, Small.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of sweet almonds, -6 bitter ones, ¼ lb. of butter, 4 eggs, -2 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls -of cream, 1 tablespoonful of -brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch and pound the -almonds to a smooth paste with a spoonful -of water; warm the butter, mix the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> -almonds with this, and add the other -ingredients, leaving out the whites of -2 eggs, and -be particular -that these are -well beaten. -Mix well, butter -some cups, -half fill them, and bake the puddings -from 20 minutes to ½ hour. Turn them -out on a dish, and serve with sweet sauce, -or with sifted sugar only. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes to ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 215px;"> -<img src="images/illus-002.jpg" width="215" height="76" alt="drawing of puddings on plate" /> -<div class="caption">SMALL ALMOND PUDDINGS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>ALMOND PUFFS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 tablespoonfuls of flour, -2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, -2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds. -<i>Mode.</i>—Blanch and pound the almonds -in a mortar to a smooth paste; melt the -butter, dredge in the flour, and add the -sugar and pounded almonds. Beat the -mixture well, and put it into cups or very -tiny jelly-pots, which should be well -buttered, and bake in a moderate oven -for about 20 minutes, or longer, should -the puffs be large. Turn them out on a -dish, the bottom of the puff uppermost, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 or 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ALMOND SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of lean beef or -veal, a few vegetables as for Stock (<i>see</i> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#STOCKS">Stock</a></span>), 1 oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of -mace, 6 cloves, ½ lb. of sweet almonds, -the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick -cream, rather more than 3 quarts of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the beef or veal, -vegetables, and spices gently in water -that will cover them, till the gravy is -very strong, and the meat very tender; -than strain off the gravy, and set it on -the fire with the specified quantity of -vermicelli to 2 quarts. Let it boil till -sufficiently cooked. Have ready the -almonds, blanched and pounded very -fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard; -mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, -with a little of the soup, lest the latter -should grow oily. Pound them to a pulp, -and keep adding to them, by degrees, a -little soup, until they are thoroughly -mixed together. Let the soup be cool -when mixing, and do it perfectly smooth. -Strain it through a sieve, set it on the -fire, stir frequently, and serve hot. Just -before taking it up, add the cream. <i>Time.</i>—From -4 to 5 hours to simmer meat and -vegetables; 20 minutes to cook the vermicelli. -<i>Average cost</i> per quart, 2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>ANCHOVY BUTTER.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of butter -allow 6 anchovies, 1 small bunch of -parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash, bone, and pound -the anchovies well in a mortar; scald -the parsley, chop it, and rub through a -sieve; then pound all the ingredients -together, mix well, and make the butter -into pats immediately. This makes a -pretty dish, if fancifully moulded, for -breakfast or supper, and should be garnished -with parsley. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 2 dishes, with 4 small -pats each. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ANCHOVY SAUCE, for Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 anchovies, 1 oz. of -butter, ½ pint of melted butter, cayenne -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Bone the anchovies, -and pound them in a mortar to a paste, -with 1 oz. of butter. Make the melted -butter hot, stir in the pounded anchovies -and cayenne; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes; -and, if liked, add a squeeze of lemon-juice. -A more general and expeditious -way of making this sauce is to stir in -1½ tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence to -½ pint of melted butter, and to add -seasoning to taste. Boil the whole up -for 1 minute, and serve hot. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> for ½ pint. -<i>Sufficient</i>, this quantity, for a brill, small -turbot, 2 soles, &c.</p> - - -<h3>ANCHOVY TOAST.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Toast 2 or 3 slices of -bread, or, if wanted very savoury, fry -them in clarified butter, and spread on -them the paste made by recipe for <a href="#ANCHOVIES_Potted">potted -anchovies</a>. Made mustard, or a few -grains of cayenne, may be added to the -paste before laying it on the toast.</p> - - -<h3>ANCHOVIES, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 tablespoonful of oil, -½ a glass of white wine, sufficient flour to -thicken; 12 anchovies. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the -oil and wine together, with sufficient -flour to make them into a thickish paste; -cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> -them in the paste, and fry of a nice brown -colour. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, for -this quantity, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3><a id="ANCHOVIES_Potted"></a>ANCHOVIES, Potted, or Anchovy -Butter.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 dozen anchovies, ½ lb. -of fresh butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the anchovies -thoroughly; bone and dry them, -and pound them in a mortar to a paste. -Mix the butter gradually with them, and -rub the whole through a sieve. Put it by -in small pots for use, and carefully exclude -the air with a bladder, as it soon -changes the colour of anchovies, besides -spoiling them. To potted anchovies may -be added pounded mace, cayenne, and -nutmeg to taste.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE CHARLOTTE, a very -simple.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—9 slices of bread and -butter, about 6 good-sized apples, 1 -tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 -tablespoonfuls of juice, moist sugar to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Butter a pie-dish; place -a layer of bread and butter, without the -crust, at the bottom; then a layer of -apples, pared, cored, and cut into thin -slices; sprinkle over these a portion of -the lemon-peel and juice, and sweeten -with moist sugar. Place another layer -of bread and butter, and then one of -apples, proceeding in this manner until -the dish is full; then cover it up with the -peel of the apples, to preserve the top -from browning or burning; bake in a -brisk oven for rather more than ¾ hour; -turn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle -sifted sugar over, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour, -or a few minutes longer. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE CHEESECAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of apple pulp, ¼ lb. -of sifted sugar, ¼ lb. of butter, 4 eggs, -the rind and juice of 1 lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, -core, and boil sufficient apples to -make ½ lb. when cooked; add to these -the sugar, the butter, which should be -melted, the eggs, leaving out 2 of the -whites, and the grated rind and juice of -1 lemon; stir the mixture well; line some -patty-pans with puff-paste; put in the -mixture, and bake about 20 minutes.—<i>Time.</i>—About -20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -for the above quantity, with the paste, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for about 18 or 20 -cheesecakes. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE CUSTARD, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 dozen large apples, -moist sugar to taste, 1 small teacupful -of cold water, the grated rind of 1 lemon, -1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel, cut, and core the apples; -put them into a lined saucepan with the -cold water, and, as they heat, bruise -them to a pulp; sweeten with moist -sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. -When cold, put the fruit at the bottom -of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, -made with the above proportion of milk, -eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmeg -over the top, place the dish in a moderate -oven, and bake from 25 to 35 minutes. -The above proportions will make rather -a large dish. <i>Time.</i>—25 to 35 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, if fruit has to be -bought. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE DUMPLINGS, Baked -(Plain family Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 apples, suet-crust, sugar -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and take out -the cores of the apples with a scoop, and -make a suet-crust with ¾ lb. of flour to -6 oz. of suet; roll the apples in the crust, -previously sweetening them with moist -sugar, and taking care to join the paste -nicely. When they are formed into -round balls, put them on a tin, and bake -them for about ½ hour, or longer, should -the apples be very large; arrange them -pyramidically on a dish, and sift over -them some pounded white sugar. These -may be made richer by using puff-paste -instead of suet-crust. <i>Time.</i>—From ½ to -¾ hour, or longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March, but flavourless after -the end of January.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE DUMPLINGS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 apples, suet-crust, sugar -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and take out -the cores of the apples with a scoop; -sweeten, and roll each apple in a piece -of crust, made with ¾ lb. of flour to -6 oz. of suet, and be particular that the -paste is nicely joined. Put the dumplings -into floured cloths, tie them securely,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> -and place them in boiling water. Keep -them boiling from ¾ to 1 hour; remove -the cloths, and send them hot and quickly -to table. Dumplings boiled in knitted -cloths have a very pretty appearance -when they come to table. The cloths -should be made square, just large enough -to hold one dumpling, and should be -knitted in plain knitting, with <i>very coarse</i> -cotton. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 hour, or longer -should the dumplings be very large. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -March, but flavourless after the end of -January.</p> - - -<h3><a id="APPLE_FRITTERS"></a>APPLE FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For the batter, 2 tablespoonfuls -of flour, ½ oz. of butter, -½ saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, -4 medium-sized apples, hot lard or clarified -beef-dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Break the -eggs, dividing the whites from the yolks, -and beat them separately. Put the flour -into a basin, stir in the butter, which -should be melted to a cream; add the -salt, and moisten with sufficient warm -milk to make it of a proper consistency, -that is to say, a batter that will drop -from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down -any lumps that may be seen, add the -yolks and then the whites of the eggs, -which have been previously well whisked; -beat up the batter for a few minutes, -and it is ready for use. Now peel and -cut the apples into rather thick whole -slices, without dividing them, and stamp -out the middle of each slice, where the -core is, with a cutter. Throw the slices -into the batter; have ready a pan of -boiling lard or clarified dripping; take -out the pieces of apple one by one, put -them into the hot lard, and fry a nice -brown, turning them when required. -When done, lay them on a piece of -blotting-paper before the fire, to absorb -the greasy moisture; then dish on a -white d’oyley, piling the fritters one -above the other; strew over them some -pounded sugar, and serve very hot. The -flavour of the fritters would be very much -improved by soaking the pieces of apple -in a little wine, mixed with sugar and -lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted -for table; the batter, also, is better for -being mixed some hours before the -fritters are made. <i>Time.</i>—From 7 to 10 -minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to -drain them. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit -weighed after being pared, cored, and -sliced, allow ¾ lb. of preserving-sugar, -the grated rind of 1 lemon, the juice of ½ -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the apples, core -and slice them very thin, and be particular -that they are all the same sort. Put -them into a jar, stand this in a saucepan -of boiling water, and let the apples -stew until quite tender. Previously to -putting the fruit into the jar, weigh -it, to ascertain the proportion of -sugar that may be required. Put -the apples into a preserving-pan, crush -the sugar to small lumps, and add it, -with the grated lemon-rind and juice, to -the apples. Simmer these over the fire -for ½ hour, reckoning from the time the -jam begins to simmer properly; remove -the scum as it rises, and, when the jam is -done, put it into pots for use. Place a -piece of oiled paper over the jam, and, to -exclude the air, cover the pots with tissue -paper dipped in the white of an egg, and -stretched over the top. This jam will -keep good for a long time. <i>Time.</i>—From -3 to 4 hours to stew in the jar; ½ hour -to boil after the jam begins to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 5<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—7 -or 8 lbs. of apples for 6 pots of -jam. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in September, -October, or November, when apples -can be bought at a reasonable price.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 6 lbs. of apples allow -3 pints of water; to every quart of juice -allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;—the juice of -½ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, core, and cut -the apples into slices, and put them into -a jar, with water in the above proportion. -Place them in a cool oven, with the jar -well covered, and, when the juice is -thoroughly drawn and the apples are -quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. -To every quart of juice allow 2 lbs. -of loaf sugar, which should be crushed -to small lumps, and put into a preserving-pan -with the juice. Boil these together -for rather more than ½ hour, remove the -scum as it rises, add the lemon-juice just -before it is done, and put the jelly into -pots for use. This preparation is useful -for garnishing sweet dishes, and may be -turned out for dessert. <i>Time.</i>—The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> -apples to be put in the oven over-night, -and left till morning; rather more than -½ hour to boil the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, for -this quantity, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 small -pots of jelly. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This should -be made in September, October, or -November.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Apples, water; to every -pint of syrup allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pare and cut the apples into -pieces, remove the cores, and put them -in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold -water to cover them. Let them boil for -an hour; then drain the syrup from them -through a hair sieve or jelly-bag, and -measure the juice; to every pint allow -¾ lb. of loaf sugar, and boil these together -for ¾ hour, removing every particle of -scum as it rises, and keeping the jelly -well stirred, that it may not burn. A -little lemon-rind may be boiled with the -apples, and a small quantity of strained -lemon-juice may be put in the jelly just -before it is done, when the flavour is -liked. This jelly may be ornamented -with preserved greengages, or any other -preserved fruit, and will turn out very -prettily for dessert. It should be stored -away in small pots. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour to -boil the fruit and water; ¾ hour to boil -the juice with the sugar. <i>Average cost</i>, -for 6 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients -in proportion, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 small pots of jelly. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in September, October, or -November.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE JELLY, Clear, for immediate -Eating.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 dozen small apples, -1½ pint of spring-water; to every pint -of juice allow ½ lb. of loaf sugar, ½ oz. of -isinglass, the rind of ½ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, -core, and cut the apples into -quarters, and boil them, with the lemon-peel, -until tender; then strain off the -apples, and run the juice through a jelly-bag; -put the strained juice, with the -sugar and isinglass, which has been previously -boiled in ½ pint of water, into a -lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil -all together for about ½ hour, and put the -jelly into moulds. When this jelly is -clear, and turned out well, it makes a -pretty addition to the supper-table, with -a little custard or whipped cream round -it: a little lemon-juice improves the -flavour, but it is apt to render the jelly -muddy and thick. If required to be kept -any length of time, rather a larger proportion -of sugar must be used. <i>Time.</i>—About -1 hour to boil the apples; ½ hour -the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -1½-pint mould. <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to March.</p> - - -<h3><a id="APPLE_JELLY_Thick_or_Marmalade"></a>APPLE JELLY, Thick, or Marmalade, -for Entremets or Dessert -Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Apples; to every lb. of -pulp allow ¾ lb. of sugar, ½ teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel, -core, and boil the apples with only sufficient -water to prevent them from burning; -beat them to a pulp, and to every -lb. of pulp allow the above proportion of -sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into -water; put these into a saucepan, and -boil till the syrup is thick and can be -well skimmed; then add this syrup to -the apple pulp, with the minced lemon-peel, -and stir it over a quick fire for -about 20 minutes, or till the apples cease -to stick to the bottom of the pan. The -jelly is then done, and may be poured -into moulds which have been previously -dipped in water, when it will turn out -nicely for dessert or a side dish; for -the latter, a little custard should be -poured round, and it should be garnished -with strips of citron or stuck with -blanched almonds. <i>Time.</i>—From ½ to ¾ -hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 -minutes to boil after the sugar is added. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—1½ lb. of apple pulp sufficient -for a small mould. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March; but is best and -cheapest in September, October, or -November.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 343px;"> -<img src="images/illus-005.jpg" width="343" height="163" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">APPLE JELLY, STUCK WITH ALMONDS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>APPLE PUDDING, Rich Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. apple pulp, ½ lb. of -loaf sugar, 6 oz. of butter, the rind of 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> -lemon, 6 eggs, puff-paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel, -core, and cut the apples, as for sauce; -put them into a stewpan, with only just -sufficient water to prevent them from -burning, and let them stew until reduced -to a pulp. Weigh the pulp, and to every -½ lb. add the sifted sugar, grated lemon-rind, -and 6 well-beaten eggs. Beat these -ingredients well together; then melt the -butter, stir it to the other things, put a -border of puff-paste round the dish, and -bake for rather more than ½ hour. The -butter should not be added until the -pudding is ready for the oven. <i>Time.</i>—½ -to ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 large apples, 6 oz. of -moist sugar, ¼ lb. of butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint -of bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, core, -and cut the apples, as for sauce, and boil -them until reduced to a pulp; then add -the butter, melted, and the eggs, which -should be well whisked. Beat up the -pudding for 2 or 3 minutes; butter a pie-dish; -put in a layer of bread-crumbs, -then the apple, and then another layer -of bread-crumbs; flake over these a few -tiny pieces of butter, and bake for about -½ hour. A very good economical pudding -may be made merely with apples, boiled -and sweetened, with the addition of a -few strips of lemon-peel. A layer of -bread-crumbs should be placed above and -below the apples, and the pudding baked -for ½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE PUDDING, Baked (Very -Good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 moderate-sized apples, -2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, -3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint -of milk, a little grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the flour to a smooth batter with -the milk, add the eggs, which should be -well whisked, and put the latter into a -well-buttered pie-dish. Wipe the apples -clean, but do not pare them; cut them -in halves, and take out the cores; lay -them in the batter, rind uppermost; -shake the suet on the top, over which -also grate a little nutmeg; bake in a -moderate oven for an hour, and cover, -when served, with sifted loaf sugar. -This pudding is also very good with the -apples pared, sliced, and mixed with the -batter. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Suet crust, apples, sugar -to taste, 1 small teaspoonful of finely-minced -lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of -lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a butter or -suet crust by either of the given recipes, -using for a moderate-sized pudding from -¾ to 1 lb. of flour, with the other ingredients -in proportion. Butter a basin; -line it with some paste; pare, core, and -cut the apples into slices, and fill the -basin with these; add the sugar, the -lemon-peel and juice; and cover with -crust; pinch the edges together, flour -the cloth, place it over the pudding, tie -it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling -water; let it boil from 2½ to 3 -hours; then turn it out of the basin and -send to table quickly. Apple puddings -may also be boiled in a cloth without a -basin; but, when made in this way, -must be served without the least delay, -as the crust soon becomes heavy. Apple -pudding is a very convenient dish to -have when the dinner-hour is rather -uncertain, as it does not spoil by being -boiled an extra hour; care, however, -must be taken to keep it well covered -with water all the time, and not to allow -it to stop boiling. <i>Time.</i>—From 2½ to 3 -hours, according to the quality of the -apples. <i>Average</i> cost, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i>, -made with 1 lb. of flour, for 7 or 8 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -March; but the apples become flavourless -and scarce after February.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE SAUCE, for Geese, Pork, -&c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 good-sized apples, -sifted sugar to taste, a piece of butter the -size of a walnut; water. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, -core, and quarter the apples, and throw -them into cold water to preserve their -whiteness. Put them in a saucepan, -with sufficient water to moisten them, -and boil till soft enough to pulp. Beat -them up, adding sugar to taste, and a -small piece of butter. This quantity -is sufficient for a good-sized tureen. -<i>Time.</i>—According to the apples, about, ¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i>, this -quantity, for a goose or couple of ducks.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>APPLE SNOW (a pretty Supper -Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 good-sized apples, -the whites of 10 eggs, the rind of 1 -lemon, ½ lb. of pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel, -core, and cut the apples into -quarters, and put them into a saucepan -with the lemon-peel, and sufficient water -to prevent them from burning,—rather -less than ½ pint. When they are tender, -take out the peel, beat them into a pulp, -let them cool, and stir them to the -whites of the eggs, which should be previously -beaten to a strong froth. Add -the sifted sugar, and continue the whisking -until the mixture becomes quite stiff, -and either heap it on a glass dish or -serve it in small glasses. The dish may -be garnished with preserved barberries or -strips of bright-coloured jelly, and a dish -of custards should be served with it, or -a jug of cream. <i>Time.</i>—From 30 to 40 -minutes to stew the apples. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a moderate-sized -glass dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE SNOWBALLS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 teacupfuls of rice, -apples, moist sugar, cloves. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the rice and milk until three-parts -done; then strain it off, and pare and -core the apples without dividing them. -Put a small quantity of sugar and a clove -into each apple, put the rice round them, -and tie each ball separately in a cloth. -Boil until the apples are tender; then -take them up, remove the cloths, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to boil the rice -separately; ½ to 1 hour with the apple. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE SOUFFLÉ.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of -milk, the rind of ½ lemon, sugar to taste, -the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1½ oz. -of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the milk with the -lemon-peel until the former is well -flavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, -and let it gradually swell over a slow -fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it -nicely. Then crush the rice to a smooth -pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; -line the bottom and sides of a round -cake-tin with it, and put it into the oven -to set; turn it out of the tin dexterously, -and be careful that the border of rice is -firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade -the beaten yolks of eggs and the -butter, and stir these over the fire until -the mixture thickens. Take it off the -fire; to this add the whites of the eggs, -which should be previously beaten to a -strong froth; stir all together, and put -it into the rice border. Bake in a -moderate oven for about ½ hour, or until -the soufflé rises very light. It should be -watched, and served instantly, or it will -immediately fall after it is taken from -the oven. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE TART or PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste, apples; to -every lb. of unpared apples allow 2 oz. of -moist sugar, ½ teaspoonful of finely-minced -lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of -lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Make puff-paste by -either of the given recipes, with ½ lb. of -flour; place a border of it round the edge -of a pie-dish, and fill the dish with apples -pared, cored, and cut into slices; sweeten -with moist sugar, add the lemon-peel and -juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water; -cover with crust, cut it evenly round -close to the edge of the pie-dish, and bake -in a hot oven from ½ to ¾ hour, or rather -longer, should the pie be very large. -When it is three-parts done, take it out -of the oven, put the white of an egg on -a plate, and, with the blade of a knife, -whisk it to a froth; brush the pie over -with this, then sprinkle upon it some -sifted sugar, and then a few drops of -water. Put the pie back into the oven, -and finish baking, and be particularly -careful that it does not catch or burn, -<i>which it is very liable to do after the -crust is iced</i>. If made with a plain crust, -the icing may be omitted. Many things -are suggested for the flavouring of apple -pie; some say 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of -beer, others the same quantity of sherry, -which very much improve the taste; -whilst the old-fashioned addition of a few -cloves is, by many persons, preferred to -anything else, as also a few slices of -quince. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour before the crust -is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterwards. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2 -lbs. of apples to a tart for 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to March; but -the apples become flavourless after -February.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>APPLE TART (Creamed).</h3> - -<p><i>Mode.</i>—Make an apple tart by the -preceding recipe, with the exception of -omitting the icing. When the tart is -baked, cut out the middle of the lid or -crust, leaving a border all round the dish. -Fill up with a nicely-made boiled custard, -grate a little nutmeg over the top, -and the pie is ready for table. This -tart is usually eaten cold; is rather an -old-fashioned dish, but, at the same -time, extremely nice. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLE TRIFLE (a Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 good-sized apples, the -rind of ½ lemon, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, -½ pint of milk, ½ pint of cream, 2 -eggs, whipped cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel, -core, and cut the apples into thin -slices, and put them into a saucepan -with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, -the sugar, and minced lemon-rind. Boil -all together until quite tender, and pulp -the apples through a sieve; if they -should not be quite sweet enough, add -a little more sugar, and put them at the -bottom of the dish to form a thick layer. -Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, -with a little sugar, over the fire, and let -the mixture thicken, but do not allow it -to reach the boiling-point. When thick, -take it off the fire; let it cool a little, -then pour it over the apples. Whip -some cream with sugar, lemon-peel, &c., -the same as for other trifles; heap it -high over the custard, and the dish is -ready for table. It may be garnished as -fancy dictates, with strips of bright apple -jelly, slices of citron, &c. <i>Time.</i>—From -30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 -minutes to stir the custard over the fire. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -per pint. <i>Sufficient</i> for a moderate-sized -trifle. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES à la Portugaise.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 good boiling apples, -½ pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, a layer -of apple marmalade, 8 preserved cherries, -garnishing of apricot jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -the apples, and, with a scoop, -take out the cores; boil the fruit in -the above proportion of sugar and water, -without being too much done, and take -care the apples do not break. Have ready -some apple marmalade; cover the bottom -of a glass dish with this, level it, and lay -the apples in a sieve to drain; pile -them neatly on the marmalade, raising -them in the centre, and place a preserved -cherry in the middle of each. Garnish -with strips of candied citron or apricot -jam, and the dish is ready for table. -<i>Time.</i>—From 20 to 30 minutes to stew -the apples. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 entremets. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES, Buttered (Sweet Entremets).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Apple marmalade or 7 -good boiling apples, ½ pint of water, -6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little -apricot jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare the apples, -and take out the cores with a scoop; -boil up the sugar and water for a few -minutes; then lay in the apples and simmer -them very gently until tender, -taking care not to let them break. Have -ready sufficient marmalade made by -the recipe for <span class="smcap"><a href="#APPLE_JELLY_Thick_or_Marmalade">Apple Marmalade</a></span>, flavoured -with lemon, to cover the bottom -of the dish; arrange the apples on this -with a piece of butter placed in each, -and in between them a few spoonfuls of -apricot jam or marmalade; put the dish -in the oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle -over the top sifted sugar, and either -brown it before the fire or with a -salamander, and serve hot. The syrup -that the apples were boiled in should be -saved for another time. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very -gently, 10 minutes in the oven. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 entremets.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES and RICE (a Plain Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 good-sized apples, 3 oz. -of butter, the rind of ½ lemon minced -very fine, 6 oz. of rice, 1½ pints of milk, -sugar to taste, ½ teaspoonful of grated -nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel the apples, halve them, and -take out the cores; put them into a -stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient -sifted sugar over to sweeten them -nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. -Stew the apples very gently until tender, -taking care they do not break. Boil the -rice, with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, -until soft, and, when thoroughly done, -dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange -the apples on it, warm the apricot jam,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> -pour it over the whole, and serve hot. -<i>Time.</i>—About 30 minutes to stew the -apples very gently; about ¾ hour to -cook the rice. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES AND RICE (a pretty -Dish of).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of -milk, the rind of ½ lemon, sugar to taste, -½ saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, ¼ lb. of -sugar, ¼ pint of water, ½ pint of boiled -custard. <i>Mode.</i>—Flavour the milk with -lemon-rind, by boiling them together for -a few minutes; then take out the peel, -and put in the rice, with sufficient sugar -to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently -until the rice is quite soft; then let it -cool. In the meantime pare, quarter, -and core the apples, and boil them until -tender in a syrup made with sugar and -water in the above proportion; and, when -soft, lift them out on a sieve to drain. -Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the -centre of a dish; lay the rice all round -till the top of the gallipot is reached; -smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, -and stick the apples into it in rows, one -row sloping to the right, and the next to -the left. Set it in the oven to colour the -apples; then, when required for table, -remove the gallipot, garnish the rice with -preserved fruits, and pour in the middle -sufficient custard, made by the recipe for -<a href="#CUSTARDS_Boiled">boiled custard</a>, to be level with the top -of the rice, and serve hot. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; -¾ hour to simmer the rice; ¼ hour to -bake. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES, Compôte of (Soyer’s -Recipe,—a Dessert Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, -½ lb. of lump sugar, ½ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Select the apples of a moderate -size, peel them, cut them in halves, remove -the cores, and rub each piece over -with a little lemon. Put the sugar and -water together into a lined saucepan, -and let them boil until forming a thickish -syrup, when lay in the apples with the -rind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice -of the same. Let the apples simmer -till tender; then take them out very -carefully, drain them on a sieve, and -reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly -for a few minutes. When both are cold, -arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, -pour over the -syrup, and -garnish with -strips of -green angelica -or candied -citron. -Smaller apples may be dressed in the -same manner: they should not be divided -in half, but peeled, and the cores pushed -out with a vegetable-cutter. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to boil the sugar and water -together; from 20 to 30 minutes to simmer -the apples. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 228px;"> -<img src="images/illus-009.jpg" width="228" height="71" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">COMPÔTE OF APPLES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>APPLES, Flanc of; or Apples in a -raised Crust. (Sweet Entremets.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of short crust, 9 -moderate-sized apples, the rind and juice -of ½ lemon, ½ lb. of white sugar, ¾ pint -of water, a few strips of candied citron. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make a plain stiff short crust, roll -it out to the thickness of ½ inch, and -butter an oval mould; line it with the -crust, and press it carefully all round -the sides, to obtain the form of the -mould, but be particular not to break -the paste. Pinch the part that just -rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, -and fill the case with flour; -bake it for about ¾ hour; then take it -out of the oven, remove the flour, put -the case back in the oven for another ¼ -hour, and do not allow it to get scorched. -It is now ready for the apples, which -should be prepared in the following -manner: peel, and take out the cores with -a small knife, or a scoop for the purpose, -without dividing the apples; put them -into a small lined saucepan, just capable of -holding them, with sugar, water, lemon-juice -and rind, in the above proportion. -Simmer them very gently until tender; -then take out the apples, let them cool, -arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil -down the syrup until reduced to a thick -jelly; pour it over the apples, and garnish -with a few slices of candied citron.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>A more simple flanc may be made -by rolling out the paste, cutting the -bottom of a round or oval shape, and -then a narrow strip for the sides: these -should be stuck on with the white of an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> -egg to the bottom piece, and the flanc -then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient -sugar to sweeten it nicely. It will not -require so long baking as in a mould; but -the crust must be made everywhere of an -equal thickness, and so perfectly joined -that the juice does not escape. This dish -may also be served hot, and should be -garnished in the same manner, or a little -melted apricot jam may be poured over -the apples, which very much improves -their flavour. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 1 hour -to bake the flanc; from 30 to 40 minutes -to stew the apples very gently. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 entremets or -side-dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES, Ginger (a pretty Supper -or Dessert Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ oz. of whole ginger, -¼ pint of whiskey, 3 lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. -of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons. -<i>Mode.</i>—Bruise the ginger, put it into a -small jar, pour over sufficient whiskey -to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; -then cut the apples into thin slices, after -paring and coring them; add the sugar -and the lemon-juice, which should be -strained; and simmer all together <i>very -gently</i> until the apples are transparent, -but not broken. Serve cold, and garnish -the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel -or preserved ginger. <i>Time.</i>—3 days -to soak the ginger; about ¾ hour to -simmer the apples very gently. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 dishes. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES Iced, or Apple Hedgehog.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 3 dozen good -boiling apples, 1 lb. of sugar, ½ pint of -water, the rind of ½ lemon minced very -fine, the whites of 2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls -of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel and core a dozen of -the apples without dividing them, and stew -them very gently in a lined saucepan -with ½ lb. of the sugar and ½ pint of -water, and when tender lift them carefully -on to a dish. Have ready the remainder -of the apples, pared, cored, and -cut into thin slices; put them into the -same syrup with the other ½ lb. of sugar, -the lemon-peel, and boil gently until -they are reduced to a marmalade; keeping -them stirred, to prevent them from -burning. Cover the bottom of the dish -with some of the marmalade, and over -that a layer of the stewed apples, in the -insides of which, and between each, place -some of the marmalade; then place -another layer of apples, and fill up the -cavities with marmalade as before, forming -the whole into a raised oval shape. -Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff -froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, -and cover the apples very smoothly all -over with the icing; blanch and cut each -almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips -at equal distances over the icing, sticking -up; strew over a little rough pounded -sugar, and put the dish in a very slow -oven, to colour the almonds, and so allow -the apples to get warm through. This -entremets may also be served cold, and -makes a pretty supper-dish. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES in Red Jelly (a pretty -Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 good-sized apples, 12 -cloves, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 lemon, -2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of -gelatine, a few drops of prepared cochineal. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose rather large -apples; peel them and take out the -cores, either with a scoop or a small -silver knife, and put into each apple -2 cloves and as much sifted sugar as -they will hold. Place them, without -touching each other, in a large pie-dish; -add more white sugar, the juice of 1 -lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake -in the oven, with a dish over them, until -they are done. Look at them frequently, -and, as each apple is cooked, place it in -a glass dish. They must not be left in -the oven after they are done, or they will -break, and so would spoil the appearance -of the dish. When the apples are neatly -arranged in the dish without touching -each other, strain the liquor in which -they have been stewing into a lined -saucepan; add to it the rind of the -lemon, and a tablespoonful of gelatine -which has been previously dissolved in -cold water, and, if not sweet, a little -more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till quite -clear; colour with a few drops of prepared -cochineal, and strain the jelly -through a double muslin into a jug; let -it cool a <i>little</i>; then pour it into the -dish round the apples. When quite cold,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> -garnish the tops of the apples with a -bright-coloured marmalade, jelly, or the -white of an egg beaten to a strong froth, -with a little sifted sugar. <i>Time.</i>—From -30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i>, with the garnishing. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES, to preserve, in Quarters -(in imitation of Ginger).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of apples -allow ¾ lb. of sugar, 1½ oz. of the best -white ginger; 1 oz. of ginger to every -½ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel, core, and -quarter the apples, and put the fruit, -sugar, and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed -jar, and let them remain for 2 -days; then infuse 1 oz. of ginger in ½ -pint of boiling water, and cover it closely, -and let it remain for 1 day: this quantity -of ginger and water is for 3 lbs. of apples, -with the other ingredients in proportion. -Put the apples, &c., into a preserving-pan -with the water strained from the -ginger, and boil till the apples look clear -and the syrup is rich, which will be in -about an hour. The rind of a lemon -may be added just before the apples have -finished boiling; and great care must be -taken not to break the pieces of apple -in putting them into the jars. Serve -on glass dishes for dessert. <i>Time.</i>—2 -days for the apples to remain in the jar -with sugar, &c.; 1 day to infuse the -ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples. -<i>Average cost</i>, for 3 lbs. of apples, with -the other ingredients in proportion, -2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—3 lbs. should fill 3 -moderate-sized jars. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -should be made in September, October, -or November.</p> - - -<h3>APPLES, Stewed, and Custard -(a pretty Dish for a Juvenile -Supper).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—7 good-sized apples, the -rind of ½ lemon or 4 cloves, ½ lb. of sugar, -¾ pint of water, ½ pint of custard. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare -and take out the cores of the -apples, without dividing them, and, if -possible, leave the stalks on; boil the -sugar and water together for 10 minutes; -then put in the apples with the lemon-rind -or cloves, whichever flavour may -be preferred, and simmer gently until -they are tender, taking care not to let -them break. Dish them neatly on a glass -dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it -quickly for a few minutes, let it cool a -little; then pour it over the apples. -Have ready quite ½ pint of custard made -by the recipe for <a href="#CUSTARDS_Boiled">Boiled Custard</a>; pour -it round, but not over, the apples when -they are quite cold, and the dish is ready -for table. A few almonds blanched and -cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, -would improve their appearance. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 to 30 minutes to stew the -apples. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -fill a large glass dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - - -<h3>APRICOT CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 to 16 ripe apricots, ½ -lb. of sugar, 1½ pint of milk, the yolks of -8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Divide -the apricots, take out the stones, and -boil them in a syrup made with ¼ lb. of -sugar and ¼ pint of water, until they form -a thin marmalade, which rub through a -sieve. Boil the milk with the other ¼ lb. -of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix -with it the yolks of eggs which have been -previously well beaten; put this mixture -into a jug, place this jug in boiling water, -and stir it one way over the fire until it -thickens; but on no account let it boil. -Strain through a sieve, add the isinglass, -previously boiled with a small quantity -of water, and keep stirring it till nearly -cold; then mix the cream with the -apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled -mould, and, if convenient, set it on ice; -at any rate, in a very cool place. It -should turn out on the dish without any -difficulty. In winter-time, when fresh -apricots are not obtainable, a little jam -may be substituted for them. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 to 30 minutes to boil the -apricots. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to fill a quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> in -August, September, and October.</p> - - -<h3>APRICOT JAM, or Marmalade.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of ripe -apricots, weighed after being skinned -and stoned, allow 1 lb. of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare -the apricots, which should be ripe, -as thinly as possible, break them in half, -and remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, -and to every lb. allow the same proportion -of loaf sugar. Pound the sugar very -finely in a mortar, strew it over the -apricots, which should be placed on -dishes, and let them remain for 12 hours. -Break the stones, blanch the kernels, and -put them with the sugar and fruit into a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> -preserving-pan. Let these simmer very -gently until clear; take out the pieces of -apricot singly as they become so, and, as -fast as the scum rises, carefully remove -it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour -over them the syrup and kernels, cover -the jam with pieces of paper dipped in -the purest salad-oil, and stretch over the -top of the jars tissue paper, cut about 2 -inches larger and brushed over with the -white of an egg: when dry, it will be -perfectly hard and air-tight. <i>Time.</i>—12 -hours, sprinkled with sugar; about ¾ hour -to boil the jam. <i>Average cost.</i>—When -cheap, apricots may be purchased for -preserving at about 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per gallon. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—10 lbs. of fruit for 12 pots of -jam. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in August -or September.</p> - - -<h3>APRICOT PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 large apricots, ¾ pint -of bread-crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of -pounded sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 -glass of sherry. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the milk -boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread-crumbs; -when half cold, add the sugar, -the well-whisked yolks of the eggs, and -the sherry. Divide the apricots in half, -scald them until they are soft, and break -them up with a spoon, adding a few of -the kernels, which should be well pounded -in a mortar; then mix the fruit and other -ingredients together, put a border of -paste round the dish, fill with the mixture, -and bake the pudding from ½ to ¾ -hour. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in August, -September, and October.</p> - - -<h3>APRICOT TART.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 or 14 apricots, sugar -to taste, puff-paste or short crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—Break the apricots in half, take -out the stones, and put them into a pie-dish, -in the centre of which place a very -small cup or jar, bottom uppermost; -sweeten with good moist sugar, but add -no water. Line the edge of the dish with -paste, put on the cover, and ornament -the pie in any of the usual modes. Bake -from ½ to ¾ hour, according to size; and -if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10 -minutes before the pie is done, and put -it into the oven again to set the glaze. -Short crust merely requires a little sifted -sugar sprinkled over it before being sent -to table. Green apricots make very good -tarts, but they should be boiled with a -little sugar and water before they are -covered with the crust. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in August, September, and October; -green ones rather earlier.</p> - - -<h3>APRICOTS, Compôte of (an elegant -Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of syrup (<i>see</i> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#SYRUP">Syrup</a></span>), 12 green apricots. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -the syrup by the given recipe, and, -when it is ready, put in the apricots -whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer -them very gently until tender, taking -care not to let them break; take them -out carefully, arrange them on a glass -dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it -over the apricots, and, when cold, serve. -<i>Time.</i>—From 15 to 20 minutes to simmer -the apricots. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in -June and July, with green apricots.</p> - - -<h3>APRICOTS, Flanc of, or Compôte -of Apricots in a Raised Crust -(Sweet Entremets).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of short crust (<i>see</i> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#CRUST_Very_good_Short_for_Fruit_Tarts">Crust</a></span>), from 9 to 12 good-sized apricots, -¾ pint of water, ½ lb. of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -a short crust by the given recipe, -and line a mould with it. Boil the sugar -and water together for 10 minutes; -halve the apricots, take out the stones, -and simmer them in the syrup until tender; -watch them carefully, and take them -up, for fear they should break. Arrange -them neatly in the flanc or case; boil the -syrup until reduced to a jelly; pour it -over the fruit, and serve either hot or -cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, -peaches, &c., may be done in the same -manner, as also currants, raspberries, -gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but with -the last-named fruits, a little currant-juice -added to them will be found an -improvement. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 1 hour -to bake the flanc, from 15 to 20 minutes -to simmer the apricots. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 entremets or -side-dish. <i>Seasonable</i> in July, August, -and September.</p> - -<p>The pretty appearance of this dish depends -on the fruit being whole; as each -apricot is done, it should be taken out of -the syrup immediately.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>APRIL—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"> -<img src="images/menu1.jpg" width="281" height="189" alt="menu" /> -</div> -<p class="courses"> -Spring Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce. -Fillets of Mackerel. Vase of Flowers. Fried Smelts. -Soles à la Crême. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu1b.jpg" width="284" height="234" alt="menu" /> -</div> -<p class="courses"> -Roast Ribs of Lamb. -Larded Capon. -Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. Vase of Flowers. Boiled Ham. -Spring Chickens. -Braised Turkey. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu1c.jpg" width="285" height="190" alt="menu Oyster Patties" /> -</div> -<p class="courses"> -Lamb Cutlets, Asparagus and Peas. -Curried Lobster. Vase of Flowers. Oyster Patties. -Grenadines de Veau.</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu1d.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> -<p class="courses"> -Ducklings, removed by Cabinet Pudding. -Raspberry-Jam Tartlets. Charlotte à la Parisienne. Rhubarb Tart. -Clear Jelly. Vase of Flowers. Orange Jelly. -Victoria Sandwiches. Cheesecakes. -Raspberry Cream. -Nesselrode Pudding.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Soup à la reine; julienne -soup; turbot and lobster sauce; slices -of salmon à la genévése. <i>Entrées.</i>—Croquettes -of leveret; fricandeau de veau; -vol-au-vent; stewed mushrooms. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Fore-quarter of lamb; saddle -of mutton; boiled chickens, asparagus -and peas; boiled tongue garnished with -tufts of broccoli; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Ducklings; larded guinea-fowls; -charlotte à la parisienne; orange jelly; -meringues; ratafia ice pudding; lobster -salad; sea-kale; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Gravy soup; salmon and -dressed cucumber; shrimp sauce; fillets -of whitings. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lobster cutlets; -chicken patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -fillet of veal; boiled leg of lamb; ham, -garnished with broccoli; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; compôte of -rhubarb; custards; vanilla cream; orange -jelly; cabinet pudding; ice pudding; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Spring soup; slices of -salmon and caper sauce; fried filleted -soles. <i>Entrées.</i>—Chicken vol-au-vent; -mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Roast loin of veal; boiled fowls -à la béchamel; tongue; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Guinea-fowls; sea-kale; -artichoke bottoms; cabinet pudding; -blancmange; apricot tartlets; rice fritters; -macaroni and Parmesan cheese; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>Dinners for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Tapioca soup; boiled -salmon and lobster sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Sweetbreads; -oyster patties. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Haunch of mutton; boiled -capon and white sauce; tongue; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Soufflé of rice; -lemon cream; charlotte à la parisienne; -rhubarb tart; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; fried -whitings; red mullet. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lamb -cutlets and cucumbers; rissoles. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Roast ribs of beef; neck of -veal à la béchamel; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Ducklings; lemon pudding; -rhubarb tart; custards; cheesecakes; -dessert.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; brill -and shrimp sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Fricandeau -of veal; lobster cutlets. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Roast fore-quarter of lamb; -boiled chickens; tongue; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Goslings; sea-kale; plum -pudding; whipped cream; compôte of -rhubarb; cheesecakes; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Ox-tail soup; crimped -salmon. <i>Entrées.</i>—Croquettes of chicken; -mutton cutlets and soubise sauce. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast fillet of veal; -boiled bacon-cheek, garnished with -sprouts; boiled capon; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Sea-kale; lobster salad; cabinet -pudding; ginger cream; raspberry-jam -tartlets; rhubarb tart; macaroni; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>APRIL, Plain Family Dinners for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Clear gravy soup. 2. -Roast haunch of mutton, sea-kale, potatoes. -3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Crimped skate and caper -sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal and -rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. -Baked plum-pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, -made from remains of cold -mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked -custard puddings.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Fried soles, anchovy -sauce. 2. Boiled beef and carrots, suet -dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Pea-soup, made with -liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold -beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets -and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Bubble-and-squeak made -with remains of cold beef, roast shoulder -of veal stuffed, spinach and potatoes. 2. -Boiled batter pudding and sweet sauce.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Stewed veal with vegetables, -made of remains of cold shoulder, -broiled rump-steak and oyster sauce. 2. -Yeast dumplings.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—Boiled salmon and dressed -cucumber, anchovy sauce. 2. Roast fore-quarter -of lamb, spinach, potatoes, and -mint sauce. 3. Rhubarb tart and cheesecakes.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—Curried salmon, made with -remains of salmon, dish of boiled rice. -2. Cold lamb, rump-steak and kidney -pudding, potatoes. 3. Spinach and -poached eggs.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Scotch mutton broth with -pearl barley. 2. Boiled neck of mutton, -caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. -Baked rice puddings.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Boiled mackerel and -melted butter and fennel sauce, potatoes. -2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon and greens. -3. Fig pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast -loin of mutton, broccoli, potatoes, veal -rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. -Boiled rhubarb pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Irish stew or haricot for -cold mutton, minced veal. 2. Half-pay -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak pie, broiled -mutton chops. 2. Baked arrowroot pudding.</p> - - -<h3>APRIL, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, -flounders, ling, lobsters, red and grey -mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, -salmon (but rather scarce and expensive), -shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench, -turbot, whitings.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, -pigeons, pullets, rabbits.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Leverets.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Broccoli, celery, lettuces, -young onions, parsnips, radishes, small -salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts, various -herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples, nuts, pears, forced -cherries, &c. for tarts, rhubarb, dried -fruits, crystallized preserves.</p> - - -<h3>ARROWROOT BISCUITS, or -Drops.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of butter, 6 eggs, ½ -lb. of flour, 6 oz. of arrowroot, ½ lb. of -pounded loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the -butter to a cream; whisk the eggs to a -strong froth, add them to the butter, stir -in the flour a little at a time, and beat -the mixture well. Break down all the -lumps from the arrowroot, and add that -with the sugar to the other ingredients. -Mix all well together, drop the dough on -a buttered tin, in pieces the size of a -shilling, and bake the biscuits about ¼ -hour in a slow oven. If the whites of -the eggs are separated from the yolks, -and both are beaten separately before -being added to the other ingredients, the -biscuits will be much lighter. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>ARROWROOT BLANCMANGE -(an inexpensive Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 heaped tablespoonfuls -of arrowroot, 1½ pint of milk, 3 laurel-leaves -or the rind of ½ lemon, sugar to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix to a smooth batter -the arrowroot with ½ pint of the milk; -put the other pint on the fire, with -laurel-leaves or lemon-peel, whichever -may be preferred, and let the milk steep -until it is well flavoured; then strain -the milk, and add it, boiling, to the -mixed arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted -sugar, and let it boil, stirring it all the -time, till it thickens sufficiently to come -from the saucepan. Grease a mould with -pure salad-oil, pour in the blancmange, -and, when quite set, turn it out on a dish, -and pour round it a compôte of any kind -of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A -tablespoonful of brandy, stirred in just -before the blancmange is moulded, very -much improves the flavour of this sweet -dish. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> without the garnishing. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ARROWROOT PUDDING, Baked -or Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, -1½ pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, the -rind of ½ lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls -of moist sugar, a little grated nutmeg. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mix the arrowroot with as much -cold milk as will make it into a smooth -batter, moderately thick; put the remainder -of the milk into a stewpan with -the lemon-peel, and let it infuse for about -½ hour; when it boils, strain it gently to -the batter, stirring it all the time to keep -it smooth; then add the butter; beat -this well in until thoroughly mixed, and -sweeten with moist sugar. Put the mixture -into a pie-dish, round which has -been placed a border of paste; grate a -little nutmeg over the top, and bake -the pudding from 1 to 1¼ hour, in a -moderate oven, or boil it the same length -of time in a well-buttered basin. To -enrich this pudding, stir to the other -ingredients, just before it is put in the -oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a -tablespoonful of brandy. For a nursery -pudding, the addition of the latter ingredients -will be found quite superfluous, as -also the paste round the edge of the dish. -<i>Time.</i>—1 to 1¼ hour, baked or boiled. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ARROWROOT SAUCE, for Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 small teaspoonfuls of -arrowroot, 4 dessertspoonfuls of pounded -sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, ¼ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg, ½ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mix the arrowroot smoothly with -the water; put this into a stewpan; add -the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and -grated nutmeg. Stir these ingredients -over the fire until they boil, when the -sauce is ready for use. A small quantity -of wine, or any liqueur, would very much -improve the flavour of this sauce: it is -usually served with bread, rice, custard, -or any dry pudding that is not very rich. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 15 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons.</p> - - -<h3>ARROWROOT, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, -3 tablespoonfuls of cold water, -½ pint of boiling water. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with -the cold water, then pour on it the <i>boiling</i> -water, <i>stirring</i> all the time. The -water must be <i>boiling</i> at the time it is -poured on the mixture, or it will not -thicken; if mixed with hot water only, it -must be put into a clean saucepan, and -boiled until it thickens; but this occasions -more trouble, and is quite unnecessary, -if the water is boiling at first. Put -the arrowroot into a tumbler, sweeten it -with lump sugar, and flavour it with -grated nutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece -of lemon-peel, or, when allowed, 3 tablespoonfuls -of port or sherry. As arrowroot -is in itself flavourless and insipid, it is -almost necessary to add the wine to -make it palatable. Arrowroot made -with milk instead of water is far nicer, -but is not so easily digested. It should -be mixed in the same manner, with 3 -tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling -milk then poured on it, and well stirred. -When made in this manner, no wine -should be added, but merely sugar, and -a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel. -<i>Time.</i>—If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient</i> to -make ½ pint of arrowroot.</p> - - -<h3>ARTICHOKES, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, a -piece of soda the size of a shilling; artichokes. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the artichokes -well in several waters; see that no insects -remain about them, and trim away -the leaves at the bottom. Cut off the -stems and put them into <i>boiling</i> water, -to which has been added salt and soda -in the above proportion. Keep the -saucepan uncovered, and let them boil -quickly until tender; ascertain when -they are done by thrusting a fork in -them, or by trying if the leaves can -be easily removed. Take them out, let -them drain for a minute or two, and -serve in a napkin, or with a little white -sauce poured over. A tureen of melted -butter should accompany them. This -vegetable, unlike any other, is considered -better for being gathered two -or three days; but they must be well -soaked and washed previous to dressing. -<i>Time.</i>—20 to 25 minutes, after the -water boils. <i>Sufficient</i>,—a dish of 5 or -6 for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from July to -the beginning of September.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 249px;"> -<img src="images/illus-016a.jpg" width="249" height="90" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ARTICHOKES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>ARTICHOKES, a French Mode of -Cooking.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 or 6 artichokes; to -each ½ gallon of water allow 1 heaped -tablespoonful of salt, ½ teaspoonful of -pepper, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, -2 oz. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the ends -of the leaves, as also the stems; put -the artichokes into boiling water, with -the above proportion of salt, pepper, -herbs, and butter; let them boil quickly -until tender, keeping the lid of the -saucepan off, and when the leaves come -out easily, they are cooked enough. -To keep them a beautiful green, put a -large piece of cinder into a muslin bag, -and let it boil with them. Serve with -plain melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—20 to 25 -minutes. <i>Sufficient</i>,—5 or 6 sufficient for -4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from July to -the beginning of September.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 223px;"> -<img src="images/illus-016b.jpg" width="223" height="53" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.</div> -</div> - -<h3>ARTICHOKES. Fried (Entremets, -or small dish to be served with -the Second Course).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 or 6 artichokes, salt -and water: for the batter,—¼ lb. of -flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, -milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Trim and boil the artichokes, -and rub them over with lemon-juice, -to keep them white. When -they are quite tender, take them up, -remove the chokes, and divide the -bottoms; dip each piece into batter, fry -them into hot lard or dripping, and -garnish the dish with crisped parsley. -Serve with plain melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 -minutes to fry them. <i>Sufficient</i>,—5 or 6 -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from July -to the beginning of September.</p> - - -<h3>ARTICHOKES à l’Italienne.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 or 5 artichokes, salt -and butter, about ½ pint of good gravy. -<i>Mode.</i>—Trim and cut the artichokes into -quarters, and boil them until tender in -water mixed with a little salt and butter. -When done, drain them well, and lay -them all round the dish, with the leaves -outside. Have ready some good gravy, -highly flavoured with mushrooms; reduce -it until quite thick, and pour it round the -artichokes, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—20 to 25 -minutes to boil the artichokes. <i>Sufficient</i> -for one side-dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from July -to the beginning of September.</p> - - -<h3>ARTICHOKES, Boiled Jerusalem.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; -artichokes. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash, peel, and -shape the artichokes in a round or -oval form, and put them into a saucepan -with sufficient <i>cold</i> water to cover -them salted in the above proportion. -Let them boil gently until tender; take -them up, drain them, and serve them in a -napkin, or plain, whichever mode is preferred; -send to table with them a tureen -of melted butter or cream sauce, a little of -which may be poured over the artichokes -when they are <i>not</i> served in a napkin. -<i>Time.</i>—About twenty minutes after the -water boils. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per lb.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> -<i>Sufficient</i>,—10 for a dish for 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—from September to June.</p> - - -<h3>ARTICHOKES, Mashed Jerusalem.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 oz. of salt, 15 or 16 artichokes, -1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the artichokes as in the -preceding recipe until tender; drain -and press the water from them, and -beat them up with a fork. When thoroughly -mashed and free from lumps, -put them into a saucepan with the butter -and a seasoning of <i>white</i> pepper and salt; -keep stirring over the fire until the -artichokes are quite hot, and serve. -A pretty way of serving Jerusalem artichokes -as an entremets, or second course -dish, is to shape the artichokes in the -form of a pear, and to serve them covered -with white sauce, garnished with Brussels -sprouts. <i>Time.</i>—About 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or -7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to June.</p> - - -<h3>ARTICHOKE (Jerusalem) SOUP, -sometimes called Palestine Soup -(a White Soup).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 slices of lean bacon or -ham, ½ a head of celery, 1 turnip, 1 -onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, -1 pint of boiling milk, or 1 pint of boiling -cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 lumps -of sugar, 2½ quarts of white stock. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the bacon and vegetables, -which should be cut into thin slices, into -the stewpan with the butter. Braise -these for ¼ of an hour, keeping them well -stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, -and after cutting them into thin slices, -add them, with a pint of stock, to the -other ingredients. When these have -gently stewed down to a smooth pulp, -put in the remainder of the stock. Stir -it well, adding the seasoning, and when -it has simmered for five minutes, pass it -through a strainer. Now pour it back -into the stewpan, let it again simmer five -minutes, taking care to skim it well, and -stir it to the boiling milk or cream. -Serve with small sippets of bread fried -in butter. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i> -per quart, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from June -to October. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 206px;"> -<img src="images/illus-017a.jpg" width="206" height="66" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED ASPARAGUS.</div> -</div> - -<h3>ASPARAGUS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; -asparagus. <i>Mode.</i>—Asparagus should be -dressed as soon as possible after it is cut, -although it may be kept for a day or two -by putting the stalks into cold water; -yet to be good, like every other vegetable, -it cannot be cooked too fresh. Scrape -the white part of the stems, <i>beginning</i> -from the <i>head</i>, and throw them into cold -water; then tie them into bundles of -about 20 each, keeping the heads all one -way, and cut the stalks evenly, that they -may all be the same length; put them -into <i>boiling</i> water, with salt in the above -proportion; keep them boiling quickly until -tender, with the saucepan uncovered. -When the asparagus is done, dish it upon -toast, which should be dipped in the -water it was cooked in, and leave the -white ends outward each way, with the -points meeting in the middle. Serve -with a tureen of melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—15 -to 18 minutes after the water boils. -<i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> the -100 heads. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow about 50 -heads for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—May -be had forced from January, but -cheapest in May, June and July.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 278px;"> -<img src="images/illus-017b.jpg" width="278" height="50" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ASPARAGUS TONGS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>ASPARAGUS-PEAS (Entremets, -or to be served as a Side Dish, -with the Second Course).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—100 heads of asparagus, -2 oz. of butter, a small bunch of parsley, -2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump -of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls -of cream, salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Carefully -scrape the asparagus, cut it into -pieces of an equal size, avoiding that -which is in the least hard or tough, -and throw them into cold water. Then -boil the asparagus in salt and water until -three-parts done; take it out, drain, and -place it on a cloth to dry the moisture -away from it. Put it into a stewpan -with the butter, parsley, and onions, and -shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. -Dredge in a little flour, add the sugar,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> -and moisten with boiling water. When -boiled a short time and reduced, take -out the parsley and onions, thicken with -the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the -cream; add a seasoning of salt, and -when the whole is on the point of simmering, -serve. Make the sauce sufficiently -thick to adhere to the vegetable. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> a pint. <i>Seasonable</i> in May, June, -and July.</p> - - -<h3>ASPARAGUS PUDDING (a delicious -Dish, to be served with the -Second Course).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of asparagus peas, -4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful -of <i>very finely</i> minced ham, 1 oz. -of butter, pepper and salt to taste, milk. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the nice green tender -parts of asparagus, about the size of -peas; put them into a basin with the -eggs, which should be well beaten, and -the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. -Mix all these ingredients well together, -and moisten with sufficient milk to make -the pudding of the consistency of thick -batter; put it into a pint buttered mould, -tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, -place it in <i>boiling water</i>, and let it boil -for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on -to a hot dish, and pour plain melted butter -<i>round</i>, but not over, the pudding. -Green peas pudding may be made in -exactly the same manner, substituting -peas for the asparagus. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Seasonable</i> -in May, June, and July.</p> - - -<h3>ASPARAGUS SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—100 heads of asparagus, -2 quarts of medium stock (see <span class="smcap"><a href="#STOCKS">Stock</a></span>), 1 -pint of water, salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Scrape the -asparagus, but do not cut off any of the -stems, and boil it in a pint of water -salted, <i>until the heads are nearly done</i>. -Then drain the asparagus, cut off the -green heads very neatly, and put them -on one side until the soup is ready. If -the stock is not made, add the stems of -asparagus to the rest of the vegetables; -if, however, the stock is ready, boil the -stems a little longer in the same water -that they were first cooked in. Then -strain them off, add the asparagus water -to the stock, and when all is boiling drop -in the green heads (or peas as they are -called), and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. -If the soup boils long after the asparagus -is put in, the appearance of the vegetable -would be quite spoiled. A small quantity -of sherry, added after the soup is put -into the tureen, would improve this soup -very much. Sometimes a French roll -is cut up and served in it. <i>Time.</i>—<i>To -nearly cook</i> the asparagus, 12 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from May -to August.</p> - - -<h3>ASPIC, or Ornamental Savoury -Jelly.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, -1 cow-heel, 3 or 4 slices of ham, any -poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, -1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1 glass of -sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning -to taste of salt and whole white pepper; -3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Lay the ham on -the bottom of a stewpan, cut up the -veal and cow-heel into small pieces, -and lay them on the ham; add the -poultry trimmings, vegetables, herbs, -sherry, and water, and let the whole -simmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully -taking away all scum that may rise to -the surface; strain through a fine sieve, -and pour into an earthen pan to get cold. -Have ready a clean stewpan, put in the -jelly, and be particular to leave the sediment -behind, or it will not be clear. -Add the whites of 3 eggs, with salt and -pepper, to clarify; keep stirring over -the fire till the whole becomes very -white; then draw it to the side, and let -it stand till clear. When this is the case, -strain it through a cloth or jelly-bag, and -use it for moulding poultry, &c. Tarragon -vinegar may be added to give an -additional flavour. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 4½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 4<i>s.</i></p> - - -<h3>AUGUST—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 287px;"> -<img src="images/menu2a.jpg" width="287" height="237" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Broiled Salmon and Caper Sauce. - -Red Mullet. Vase of Flowers. Perch. - -Soup à la Julienne, removed by Brill and Shrimp Sauce. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu2b.jpg" width="284" height="233" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Haunch of Venison. - -Ham, garnished. - -Capons à la Financière. Vase of Flowers. Roast Fowls. - -Leveret Pie. - -Saddle of Mutton. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu2c.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Fricandeau de Veau -à la Jardinière. - -Curried Lobster. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Lamb Cutlets à la Purée -de Pommes de Terre. - -Fillets of Ducks -and Peas. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu2d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Grouse -removed by -Cabinet Pudding. Lobster -Salad. Cheesecakes. - -Fruit Jelly. - -Charlotte à la Vanille. - -Vase of Flowers. - -Custards. - -Vol-au-Vent of Pears. - -Raspberry -Tartlets. - -Larded Peahen, -removed by -Iced Pudding. - -Prawns. -</p> - - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; soup -à la reine; boiled salmon; fried flounders; -trout en matelot. <i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed -pigeons; sweetbreads; ragoût -of ducks; fillets of chickens and mushrooms. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Quarter of -lamb; cotellette de bœuf à la jardinière; -roast fowls and boiled tongue; bacon -and beans. <i>Third Course.</i>—Grouse; -wheatears; greengage tart; whipped -cream; vol-au-vent of plums; fruit jelly; -iced pudding; cabinet pudding; dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; fillets -of turbot and Dutch sauce; red mullet. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Riz de veau aux tomates; -fillets of ducks and peas. <i>Second Course.</i>—Haunch -of venison; boiled capon and -oysters; ham, garnished; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Leveret; fruit jelly; -compôte of greengages; plum tart; -custards, in glasses; omelette soufflé; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Macaroni soup; crimped -salmon and sauce Hollandaise; fried -fillets of trout. <i>Entrées.</i>—Tendrons -do veau and stewed peas; salmi of -grouse. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast loin of -veal; boiled bacon, garnished with -French beans; stewed beef à la jardinière; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Turkey -poult; plum tart; custard pudding; -vol-au-vent of pears; strawberry -cream; ratafia soufflé; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vegetable-marrow soup; -stewed mullet; fillets of salmon and ravigotte -sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Curried lobster; -fricandeau de veau à la jardinière. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast saddle of mutton; -stewed shoulder of veal, garnished with -forcemeat balls; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Roast grouse and bread sauce; -vol-au-vent of greengages; fruit jelly; -raspberry cream; custards; fig pudding; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>AUGUST, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. -2. Roast quarter of lamb, mint sauce; -French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant -tart, custard pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Cold lamb and salad, -small meat-pie, vegetable marrow, and -white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Boiled mackerel. 2. -Stewed loin of veal, French beans and -potatoes, 3. Baked raspberry pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup. 2. -Lamb cutlets and French beans; the remains -of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed -vegetable marrow. 3. Black-currant -pudding.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Roast ribs of beef, -Yorkshire pudding, French beans and -potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Fried soles and melted -butter. 2. Cold beef and salad, lamb -cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers -and white sauce instead of -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Stewed beef and vegetables, -with remains of cold beef; -mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and -cheese.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Salmon pudding. 2. -Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek -garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, -French beans and potatoes. 3. Plum -tart, boiled custard pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Baked soles. 2. Cold -veal and bacon, salad, mutton cutlets -and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Rice soup. 2. Roast -fowls and water-cresses, boiled knuckle -of ham, minced veal garnished with -croûtons; vegetables. 3. College pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Curried fowl with remains -of cold fowl; dish of rice, stewed -rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum -tart.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Boiled brisket of beef, -carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and -potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup, made -from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. -Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal -cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Fondue.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Bubble-and-squeak, -made from remains of cold beef; cold -veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>AUGUST, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, -dory, eels, flounders, grigs, herrings, -lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, -shrimps, skate, soles, sturgeon, thornback, -trout, turbot.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck -venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, -green geese, pigeons, plovers, pullets, -rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild -ducks.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Leverets, grouse, black-cock.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Artichokes, asparagus, -beans, carrots, cabbages, cauliflowers, -celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, -onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, -sea-kale, small salading, sprouts, turnips, -various kitchen herbs, vegetable -marrows.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, -grapes, melons, mulberries, nectarines, -peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, -raspberries, walnuts.</p> - - -<h3>BACON, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bacon; water. <i>Mode.</i>—As -bacon is frequently excessively salt, -let it be soaked in warm water for an -hour or two previous to dressing it; then -pare off the rusty parts, and scrape the -under-side -and rind as -clean as -possible. -Put it into -a saucepan -of cold water; -let it -come gradually to a boil, and as fast as -the scum rises to the surface of the water, -remove it. Let it simmer very gently -until it is <i>thoroughly</i> done; then take it -up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over -the bacon a few bread raspings, and -garnish with tufts of cauliflower or -Brussels sprouts. When served alone, -young and tender broad beans or green -peas are the usual accompaniments. -<i>Time.</i>—1 lb. of bacon, ¾ hour; 2 lbs., -1½ hour. <i>Average cost,</i> 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. -for the primest parts. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 lbs., -when served with poultry or veal, sufficient -for 10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 232px;"> -<img src="images/illus-020.jpg" width="232" height="82" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED BACON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BACON, Broiled Rashers of.</h3> - -<p>Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that -it is perfectly free from rust, which may -easily be detected by its yellow colour; -and for broiling, the streaked part of the -thick flank is generally the most esteemed. -Cut it into <i>thin</i> slices, take off -the rind, and broil over a nice clear fire; -turn it two or three times, and serve very -hot. Should there be any cold bacon -left from the previous day, it answers -very well for breakfast, cut into slices, -and broiled or fried. <i>Time.</i>—3 or 4 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per -lb. for the primest parts. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When the bacon is cut very -thin, the slices may be curled round and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> -fastened by means of small skewers, and -fried or toasted before the fire.</p> - - -<h3>BACON and HAMS, Curing of.</h3> - -<p>The carcass of the hog, after hanging -over-night to cool, is laid on a strong -bench or stool, and the head is separated -from the body at the neck close behind -the ears; the feet and also the internal -fat are removed. The carcass is next -divided into two sides in the following -manner:—The ribs are divided about an -inch from the spine on each side, and -the spine, with the ends of the ribs -attached, together with the internal -flesh between it and the kidneys, and -also the flesh above it, throughout the -whole length of the sides, are removed. -The portion of the carcass thus cut out -is in the form of a wedge—the breadth -of the interior consisting of the breadth -of the spine, and about an inch of the -ribs on each side, being diminished to -about half an inch at the exterior or skin -along the back. The breastbone, and -also the first anterior rib, are also dissected -from the side. Sometimes the -whole of the ribs are removed; but this, -for reasons afterwards to be noticed, is -a very bad practice. When the hams -are cured separately from the sides, -which is generally the case, they are cut -out so as to include the hock-bone, in a -similar manner to the London mode of -cutting a haunch of mutton. The carcass -of the hog thus cut up is ready for being -salted, which process, in large curing establishments, -is generally as follows:—The -skin side of the pork is rubbed over -with a mixture of fifty parts by weight -of salt, and one part of saltpetre in -powder, and the incised parts of the ham -or flitch, and the inside of the flitch, -covered with the same. The salted bacon, -in pairs of flitches with the insides to -each other, is piled one pair of flitches -above another on benches slightly inclined, -and furnished with spouts or -troughs to convey the brine to receivers -in the floor of the salting-house, to be -afterwards used for pickling pork for -navy purposes. In this state the bacon -remains a fortnight, which is sufficient -for flitches cut from hogs of a carcass -weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the -stone). Flitches of a larger size, at the -expiration of that time, are wiped dry -and reversed in their place in the pile, -having, at the same time, about half the -first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt -sprinkled over the inside and incised -parts; after which they remain on the -benches for another week. Hams being -thicker than flitches, will require, when -less than 20 lbs. weight, 3 weeks; and -when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain -under the above described process. -The next and last process in the preparation -of bacon and hams, previous to -being sent to market, is drying. This is -effected by hanging the flitches and hams -for 2 or 3 weeks in a room heated by -stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which -they are exposed for the same length of -time to the smoke arising from the slow -combustion of the sawdust of oak or other -hard wood. The latter mode of completing -the curing process has some -advantages over the other, as by it the -meat is subject to the action of <i>creosote</i>, -a volatile oil produced by the combustion -of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. -The process also furnishing a -thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes -the air not only from the muscle, -but also from the fat—thus effectually -preventing the meat from becoming -rusted; and the principal reasons for -condemning the practice of removing the -ribs from the flitches of pork are, that -by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly -hard and pungent in the process -of salting, and, by being more exposed -to the action of the air, becomes -sooner and more extensively rusted. -Notwithstanding its superior efficacy in -completing the process of curing, the -flavour which smoke-drying imparts to -meat is disliked by many persons, and it -is therefore by no means the most general -mode of drying adopted by mercantile -curers. A very impure variety of <i>pyroligneous</i> -acid, or vinegar made from the -destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes -used, on account of the highly -preservative power of the creosote which -it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; -in which latter object, however, -the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather -than that derived from the smoke from -combustion of wood. A considerable -portion of the bacon and hams salted -in Ireland is exported from that country -packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately -from the salting process, without -having been in any degree dried. In the -process of salting above described, pork -loses from 8 to 10 per cent of its weight, -according to the size and quality of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> -meat; and a further diminution of -weight, to the extent of 5 to 6 per cent. -takes place in drying during the first -fortnight after being taken out of salt; -so that the total loss in weight occasioned -by the preparation of bacon and hams in -a proper state for market, is not less on -an average than 15 per cent. on the weight -of the fresh pork.</p> - - -<h3>BACON, to Cure and Keep it free -from Rust (Cobbett’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p>The two sides that remain, and which -are called flitches, are to be cured for -bacon. They are first rubbed with salt -on their insides, or flesh sides, then placed -one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, -in a salting-trough which has a -gutter round its edges to drain away the -brine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, -the flitches must not be sopping in brine, -which gives it the sort of vile taste that -barrel and sea pork have. Every one -knows how different is the taste of fresh -dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved -state; therefore change the salt often,—once -in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink -in, but not lie too long; twice change -the flitches, put that at bottom which was -first on the top: this mode will cost you -a great deal more in salt than the sopping -mode, but without it your bacon will not -be so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. -As for the time required in making your -flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on -circumstances. It takes a longer time -for a thick than a thin flitch, and longer -in dry than in damp weather, or in a dry -than in a damp place; but for the flitches -of a hog of five score, in weather not very -dry or damp, about 6 weeks may do; and -as yours is to be fat, which receives -little injury from over-salting, give time -enough, for you are to have bacon until -Christmas comes again. The place for -salting should, like a dairy, always be -cool, but well ventilated; confined air, -though cool, will taint meat sooner than -the midday sun accompanied by a breeze. -With regard to smoking the bacon, two -precautions are necessary: first, to hang -the flitches where no rain comes down -upon them; and next, that the smoke -must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, -or coal. As to the time required to smoke -a flitch, it depends a good deal upon -whether there be a constant fire beneath; -and whether the fire be large or small: -a month will do, if the fire be pretty -constant and rich, as a farm-house fire -usually is; but over-smoking, or rather -too long hanging in the air, makes the -bacon rust; great attention should therefore -be paid to this matter. The flitch -ought not to be dried up to the hardness -of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly -dry. Before you hang it up, lay it -on the floor, scatter the flesh side pretty -thickly over with bran, or with some -fine sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on -the flesh, or pat it well down upon it: -this keeps the smoke from getting into -the little openings, and makes a sort of -crust to be dried on. To keep the bacon -sweet and good, and free from hoppers, -sift fine some clean and dry wood ashes. -Put some at the bottom of a box or chest -long enough to hold a flitch of bacon; lay -in one flitch, then put in more ashes, then -another flitch, and cover this with six or -eight inches of the ashes. The place where -the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, -and, should the ashes become damp, they -should be put in the fireplace to dry, and -when cold, put back again. With these -precautions, the bacon will be as good at -the end of the year as on the first day. For -simple general rules, these may be safely -taken as a guide; and those who implicitly -follow the directions given, will -possess at the expiration of from 6 weeks -to 2 months well-flavoured and well-cured -bacon.</p> - - -<h3>BACON or HAMS, to Cure in the -Devonshire way.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 14 lbs. of meat -allow 2 oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of salt prunella, -1 lb. of common salt. For the -pickle, 3 gallons of water, 5 lbs. of common -salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. of bay -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Weigh the sides, hams, -and cheeks, and to every 14 lbs. allow the -above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, -and common salt. Pound and mix -these together, and rub well into the -meat; lay it in a stone trough or tub, -rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it -daily for two successive days. At the -end of the second day, pour on it a pickle -made as follows:—Put the above ingredients -into a saucepan, set it on the fire, -and stir frequently; remove all the scum, -allow it to boil for ¼ hour, and pour it -hot over the meat. Let the hams, &c., -be well rubbed and turned daily; if the -meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient -for the sides and shoulders to remain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> -in the pickle, and the hams 3 weeks; -if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3 weeks will -be required for the sides, &c., and from -4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking -the pieces out, let them drain for an -hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke -from a fortnight to three weeks. Boil -and carefully skim the pickle after using, -and it will keep good, closely corked, for -2 years. When boiling it for use, add -about 2 lbs. of common salt, and the -same of treacle, to allow for waste. -Tongues are excellent put into this pickle -cold, having been first rubbed well with -saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain -24 hours, not forgetting to make a deep -incision under the thick part of the -tongue, so as to allow the pickle to -penetrate more readily. A fortnight or -three weeks, according to the size of the -tongue, will be sufficient. <i>Time.</i>—Small -meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, -hams 3 weeks; to be smoked from a fortnight -to 3 weeks.</p> - - -<h3>BACON, to Cure in the Wiltshire -way.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of coarse sugar, ½ lb. -of bay salt, 6 oz. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of -common salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Sprinkle each flitch -with salt, and let the blood drain off for -24 hours; then pound and mix the above -ingredients well together and rub it well -into the meat, which should be turned -every day for a month; then hang it to -dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days. -<i>Time.</i>—To remain in the pickle from -three to four weeks, to be smoked 10 -days, or rather longer.</p> - - -<h3>BACON, Fried Rashers of, and -Poached Eggs.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bacon; eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the bacon into thin slices, trim away -the rusty parts, and cut off the rind. Put -it into a <i>cold</i> frying-pan, that is to say, -do not place the pan on the fire before the -bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3 times, and -dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs -and slip them on to the bacon without -breaking the yolks, and serve quickly. -<i>Time.</i>—3 or 4 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. for the primest parts. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time. <i>Note.</i>—Fried -rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a -pretty garnish to many dishes; and, for -small families, answer very well as a -substitute for boiled bacon, to serve with -a small dish of poultry, &c.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>The Bain Marie.</b>—It is an open -kind of vessel, as shown in the engraving, -and is a utensil much used in modern -cookery, both in English and French -kitchens. It is filled with boiling or nearly -boiling water; and into this water should -be put all the stewpans containing those -ingredients which it is desired to keep -hot. The quantity and quality of the -contents of these vessels are not at all -affected; and if the hour of dinner is -uncertain in any establishment, by reason -of the nature of the master’s business, -nothing is so sure a means of preserving -the flavour of all dishes as the employment -of the bain marie.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 287px;"> -<img src="images/illus-023.jpg" width="287" height="142" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">THE BAIN MARIE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BARBEL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of port wine, a -saltspoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls -of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of -sweet herbs, nutmeg and mace to taste, -the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or -2 barbels, according to size. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the barbels in salt and water till -done; pour off some of the water, and -to the remainder put the ingredients -mentioned above. Simmer gently for ½ -hour or rather more, and strain. Put in -the fish, heat it gradually, but do not let -it boil, or it will be broken. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -1 hour. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to November.</p> - - -<h3>BARBERRIES (Berberis vulgaris).</h3> - -<p>A fruit of such great acidity, that even -birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it -nearly approaches the tamarind. When -boiled with sugar, it makes a very agreeable -preserve or jelly, according to the -different modes of preparing it. Barberries -are also used as a dry sweetmeat, and -in sugarplums or comfits; are pickled with -vinegar, and are used for various culinary -purposes. They are well calculated to -allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted -with fevers. The berries, arranged on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> -bunches of nicely curled parsley, make an -exceedingly pretty garnish for supper -dishes, particularly for white meats, like -boiled fowl à la Béchamel, the three -colours, scarlet, green, and white, contrasting -well, and producing a very good -effect.</p> - - -<h3>BARBERRIES, to preserve in -Bunches.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of syrup, barberries. -<i>Mode.</i>—Prepare some small pieces -of clean white wood, 3 inches long and -¼ inch wide, and tie the fruit on to -these in nice bunches. Have ready -some clear syrup (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#SYRUP">Syrup</a></span>); put in the -barberries, and simmer them in it for 2 -successive days, boiling them for nearly -½ hour each day, and covering them each -time with the syrup when cold. When -the fruit looks perfectly clear it is sufficiently -done, and should be stowed away -in pots, with the syrup poured over, or the -fruit may be candied. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to -simmer each day. <i>Seasonable</i> in autumn.</p> - - -<h3>BARLEY SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of shin of beef, -¼ lb. of pearl barley, a large bunch of -parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and -pepper, 4 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -in all the ingredients, and simmer gently -for 3 hours. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2½<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all the -year, but more suitable for winter.</p> - - -<h3>BARLEY-SUGAR, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of sugar -allow ½ pint of water, ½ the white of an -egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the sugar into a well-tinned -saucepan, with the water, and, -when the former is dissolved, set it over -a moderate fire, adding the well-beaten -egg before the mixture gets warm, and -stir it well together. When it boils, -remove the scum as it rises, and keep it -boiling until no more appears, and the -syrup looks perfectly clear; then strain -it through a fine sieve or muslin bag, and -put it back into the saucepan. Boil it -again like caramel, until it is brittle, -when a little is dropped in a basin of -cold water: it is then sufficiently boiled. -Add a little lemon-juice and a few drops -of essence of lemon, and let it stand for -a minute or two. Have ready a marble -slab or large dish, rubbed over with -salad-oil; pour on it the sugar, and cut -it into strips with a pair of scissors: -these strips should then be twisted, and -the barley-sugar stored away in a very -dry place. It may be formed into -lozenges or drops, by dropping the sugar -in a very small quantity at a time on to -the oiled slab or dish. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -sticks.</p> - - -<h3>BARLEY-WATER, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of pearl barley, 2 -quarts of boiling water, 1 pint of cold -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the barley in cold -water; put it into a saucepan with the -above proportion of cold water, and when -it has boiled for about ¼ hour, strain off -the water, and add the 2 quarts of fresh -boiling water. Boil it until the liquid is -reduced one half; strain it, and it will -be ready for use. It may be flavoured -with lemon-peel, after being sweetened, -or a small piece may be simmered with -the barley. When the invalid may take -it, a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant -drink in illness a very nice flavour; as -does also a small quantity of port wine. -<i>Time.</i>—To boil until the liquid is reduced -one half. <i>Sufficient</i> to make 1 quart of -barley-water.</p> - - -<h3>BATTER PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls -of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, -a little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the flour with -a small quantity of cold milk; make the -remainder hot, and pour it on to the flour, -keeping the mixture well stirred; add the -butter, eggs, and salt; beat the whole -well, and put the pudding into a buttered -pie-dish; bake for ¾ hour, and serve with -sweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. -Baked in small cups, very pretty little -puddings may be made; they should be -eaten with the same accompaniments as -above. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BATTER PUDDING, Baked, with -Dried or Fresh Fruit.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls -of flour, 3 eggs, 2 oz. of finely-shredded -suet, ¼ lb. of currants, a pinch -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the milk, flour, and -eggs to a smooth batter; add a little -salt, the suet, and the currants, which -should be well washed, picked, and dried;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> -put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, -and bake in a moderate oven for 1¼ hour. -When fresh fruits are in season, this -pudding is exceedingly nice, with damsons, -plums, red currants, gooseberries, -or apples; when made with these, the -pudding must be thickly sprinkled over -with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding, -with fruit, is made in the same manner, -by putting the fruit into a buttered basin, -and filling it up with batter made in the -above proportion, but omitting the suet. -It must be sent quickly to table, and -covered plentifully with sifted sugar. -<i>Time.</i>—Baked batter pudding, with fruit, -1¼ to 1½ hour; boiled ditto, 1½ to 1¾ hour, -allowing that both are made with the -above proportion of batter. Smaller puddings -will be done enough in ¾ or 1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time, with -dried fruits.</p> - - -<h3>BATTER PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, -1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, -a little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour into a -basin, and add sufficient milk to moisten -it; carefully rub down all the lumps with -a spoon, then pour in the remainder of -the milk, and stir in the butter, which -should be previously melted; keep beating -the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch -of salt, and, when the batter is quite -smooth, put it into a well-buttered basin, -tie it down very tightly, and put it into -boiling water; move the basin about for -a few minutes after it is put into the -water, to prevent the flour settling in any -part, and boil for 1¼ hour. This pudding -may also be boiled in a floured cloth that -has been wetted in hot water: it will -then take a few minutes less than when -boiled in a basin. Send batter puddings -very quickly to table, and serve with -sweet sauce, wine sauce, stewed fruit, or -jam of any kind: when the latter is used, -a little of it may be placed round the dish -in small quantities, as a garnish. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ -hour in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BATTER PUDDING, with Orange -Marmalade.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, -1½ oz. of loaf sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of -flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the batter with the -above ingredients, put it into a well-buttered -basin, tie it down with a cloth, -and boil for 1 hour. As soon as it is -turned out of the basin, put a small jar -of orange marmalade all over the top, -and send the pudding very quickly to -table. It is advisable to warm the marmalade -to make it liquid. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the marmalade, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time; but more suitable for a winter -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, Boiled Broad or Windsor.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 158px;"> -<img src="images/illus-025.jpg" width="158" height="286" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BROAD BEANS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of -water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of -salt; beans. <i>Mode.</i>—This is a favourite -vegetable with many persons, but, -to be nice, should be young and -freshly gathered. -After shelling the -beans, put them -into <i>boiling</i> water, -salted in the above -proportion, and let -them boil rapidly -until tender. -Drain them well in -a colander; dish, -and serve with -them separately a -tureen of parsley -and butter. Boiled -bacon should -always accompany -this vegetable, but -the beans should be cooked separately. -It is usually served with the beans laid -round, and the parsley and butter in a -tureen. Beans also make an excellent -garnish to a ham, and when used for -this purpose, if very old, should have -their skins removed. <i>Time.</i>—Very -young beans, 15 minutes; when a moderate -size, 20 to 25 minutes, or longer. -<i>Average cost</i>, unshelled, 6<i>d.</i> per peck. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow one peck for 6 or 7 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, Broad, à la Poulette.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pints of broad beans, -½ pint of stock or broth, a small bunch -of savoury herbs, including parsley, a -small lump of sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, -¼ pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Procure some young and freshly-gathered -beans, and shell sufficient to -make 2 pints; boil them, as in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> -preceding recipe, until nearly done; then -drain them and put them into a stewpan -with the stock, finely-minced herbs, -and sugar. Stew the beans until perfectly -tender, and the liquor has dried -away a little; then beat up the yolk of -an egg with the cream, add this to the -beans, let the whole get thoroughly hot, -and when on the point of simmering, -serve. Should the beans be very large, -the skin should be removed previously -to boiling them. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to -boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them -in the stock. <i>Average cost</i>, unshelled, 6<i>d.</i> -per peck. <i>Seasonable</i> in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, Boiled French.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, a -very small piece of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—This -vegetable should always be eaten young, -as when allowed to grow too long it tastes -stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off -the heads and tails, and a thin strip on -each side of the beans to remove the -strings; then divide each bean into 4 or 6 -pieces, according to size, cutting them -lengthways in a slanting direction, and -as they are cut put them into cold water, -with a small quantity of salt dissolved -in it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling -water, with salt and soda in the above -proportion; put in the beans, keep them -boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, -and be careful that they do not get -smoked. When tender, which may be -ascertained by their sinking to the bottom -of the saucepan, take them up, pour -them into a colander, and when drained, -dish and serve with plain melted butter. -When very young, beans are sometimes -served whole: thus dressed, their colour -and flavour are much better preserved, -but the more general way of sending -them to table is to cut them into thin -strips. <i>Time.</i>—Very young beans, 10 -to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20 -minutes, after the water boils. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per peck, but -when forced very expensive. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -½ peck for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of July to the -end of September, but may be had forced -from February to the beginning of June.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, French Mode of Cooking -French.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A quart of French beans, -3 oz. of fresh butter, pepper and salt to -taste, the juice of ½ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -and boil the beans by the preceding -recipe, and when tender, put them into a -stewpan, and shake over the fire, to -dry away the moisture from the beans. -When quite dry and hot, add the butter, -pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving -the stewpan, without using a spoon, -as that would break the beans; and when -the butter is melted, and all is thoroughly -hot, serve. If the butter should not mix -well, add a tablespoonful of gravy, and -serve very quickly. <i>Time.</i>—About ¼ -hour to boil the beans; 10 minutes to -shake them over the fire. <i>Average cost</i>, -in full season, about 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per peck. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of July to the end of -September.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, to Boil Haricots Blancs, -or White Haricot.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of white haricot -beans, 2 quarts of soft water, 1 oz. of -butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the beans into cold water, -let them soak from 2 to 4 hours, according -to their age; then put them into cold -water salted in the above proportion, -bring them to boil, and let them simmer -very slowly until tender; pour the water -away from them, let them stand by the -side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan -partially off, to allow the beans to -dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and a -seasoning of pepper and salt. Shake -the beans about for a minute or two, and -serve: do not stir them with a spoon, -for fear of breaking them to pieces. -<i>Time.</i>—After the water boils, from 2 to -2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter, when other vegetables are -scarce.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Haricots blancs, when new and -fresh, should be put into boiling water, -and do not require any soaking previous -to dressing.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, Haricots Blancs & Minced -Onions.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of white haricot -beans, 4 middling-sized onions, ¼ pint of -good brown gravy, pepper and salt to -taste, a little flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel and -mince the onions not too finely, and fry -them in butter of a light brown colour; -dredge over them a little flour, and add<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> -the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and -salt. Have ready a pint of haricot beans -well boiled and drained; put them with -the onions and gravy, mix all well together, -and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—From -2 to 2½ hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes -to fry the onions. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter.</p> - - -<h3>BEANS, Haricots Blancs à la Maître -d’Hôtel.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 201px;"> -<img src="images/illus-027.jpg" width="201" height="295" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HARICOT BEANS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of white haricot -beans, ¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful -of minced parsley, pepper and salt to -taste, the juice of ½ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Should -the beans be very dry, soak them -for an hour or two in cold water, and boil -them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding -recipe. If the water should boil -away, replenish it -with a little more -cold, which makes -the skin of the -beans tender. Let -them be very thoroughly -done; drain -them well; then -add to them the -butter, minced parsley, -and a seasoning -of pepper and -salt. Keep moving -the stewpan over -the fire without -using a spoon, as -this would break -the beans; and, -when the various ingredients are well -mixed with them, squeeze in the lemon-juice, -and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—From -2 to 2½ hours to boil the beans. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3><a id="BECHAMEL_or_French_White_Sauce"></a>BÉCHAMEL, or French White -Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 small bunch of parsley, -2 cloves, ½ bay-leaf, 1 small bunch of -savoury herbs, salt to taste; 3 or 4 mushrooms, -when obtainable; 2 pints of white -stock, 1 pint of milk or cream, 1 tablespoonful -of arrowroot. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -stock into a stewpan, with the parsley, -cloves, bay-leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; -add a seasoning of salt, but no pepper, as -that would give the sauce a dusty appearance, -and should be avoided. When it has -boiled long enough to extract the flavour -of the herbs, &c., strain it, and boil it -up quickly again, until it is nearly -half reduced. Now mix the arrowroot -smoothly with the milk or cream, and -let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes -over a slow fire; pour to it the stock, -and continue to simmer slowly for 10 -minutes, if the sauce be thick. If, on -the contrary, it be too thin, it must be -stirred over a sharp fire till it thickens. -Always make it thick, as it can easily be -thinned with cream, milk, or white stock. -This sauce is excellent for pouring over -boiled fowls. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> per quart, with cream at -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - - -<h3>BÉCHAMEL MAIGRE, or Without -Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 onions, 1 blade of mace, -mushroom trimmings, a small bunch of -parsley, 1 oz. of butter, flour, ½ pint of -water, 1 pint of milk, salt, the juice of -½ lemon, 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put in a stewpan -the milk and ½ pint of water, with -the onions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, -and salt. Let these simmer gently for -20 minutes. In the meantime, rub on a -plate 1 oz. of flour and butter; put it to -the liquor, and stir it well till it boils up; -then place it by the side of the fire, and -continue stirring until it is perfectly -smooth. Now strain it through a sieve -into a basin, after which put it back in -the stewpan, and add the lemon-juice. -Beat up the yolks of the eggs with about -4 dessertspoonfuls of milk; strain this -to the sauce, keep stirring it over the -fire, <i>but do not let it boil, or it will curdle</i>. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -5<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - -<p>This is a good sauce to pour over boiled -fowls when they are a bad colour.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Aitchbone of, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Beef, water. <i>Mode.</i>—After -this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 -days, it will be ready for use, and will not -take so long boiling as a round, for it is -not so solid. Wash the meat, and, if too -salt, soak it for a few hours, changing -the water once or twice, till the required -freshness is obtained. Put into a saucepan, -or boiling-pot, sufficient water to -cover the meat; set it over the fire, and -when it boils, plunge in the joint, and -let it boil up quickly. Now draw the -pot to the side of the fire, and let the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> -process be very gradual, as the water -must only simmer, or the meat will be -hard and tough. Carefully remove the -scum from the surface of the water, and -continue doing this for a few minutes -after it first boils. Carrots and turnips -are served with this dish, and sometimes -suet dumplings, which may be boiled -with the beef. Garnish with a few of -the carrots and turnips, and serve the -remainder in a vegetable-dish. <i>Time.</i>—An -aitchbone of 10 lbs., 2½ hours after -the water boils; one of 20 lbs., 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—10 -lbs. for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but best from September to -March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"> -<img src="images/illus-028.jpg" width="266" height="181" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The liquor in which the meat -has been boiled may be easily converted -into a very excellent pea-soup. It will -require very few vegetables, as it will be -impregnated with the flavour of those -boiled with the meat.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF À LA MODE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 or 7 lbs. of the thick -flank of beef, a few slices of fat bacon, -1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, -allspice, 2 cloves well mixed and finely -pounded, making altogether 1 heaped -teaspoonful; salt to taste, 1 bunch -of savoury herbs, including parsley, all -finely minced and well mixed; 3 onions, -2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of -celery, 1½ pint of water, 1 glass of -port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice and fry the -onions of a pale brown, and cut up the -other vegetables in small pieces, and -prepare the beef for stewing in the following -manner:—Choose a fine piece of -beef, cut the bacon into long slices, -about an inch in thickness, dip them -into vinegar, and then into a little of the -above seasoning of spice, &c., mixed -with the same quantity of minced herbs. -With a sharp knife make holes deep -enough to let in the bacon; then rub -the beef over with the remainder of the -seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in -a nice shape with tape. Have ready a -well-tinned stewpan (it should not be -much larger than the piece of meat you -are cooking), into which put the beef, -with the vegetables, vinegar, and water. -Let it simmer <i>very gently</i> for 5 hours, or -rather longer, should the meat not be -extremely tender, and turn it once or -twice. When ready to serve, take out -the beef, remove the tape, and put it on -a hot dish. Skim off every particle of -fat from the gravy, add the port wine, -just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and -it is ready to serve. Great care must be -taken that this does not boil fast, or the -meat will be tough and tasteless; it -should only just bubble. When convenient, -all kinds of stews, &c. should -be cooked on a hot plate, as the process -is so much more gradual than on an -open fire. <i>Time.</i>—5 hours, or rather -more. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all -the year, but more suitable for a winter -dish.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF À LA MODE (Economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 3 lbs. of clod or -sticking of beef, 2 oz. of clarified dripping, -1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of -water, 12 berries of allspice, 2 bay-leaves, -½ teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the beef into small -pieces, and roll them in flour; put the -dripping into a stewpan with the onion, -which should be sliced thin. Let it get -quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and -stir them well about. When nicely -browned all over, add <i>by degrees</i> boiling -water in the above proportion, and, as -the water is added, keep the whole well -stirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, -and seasoning, cover the stewpan closely, -and set it by the side of the fire to stew -very <i>gently</i>, till the meat becomes quite -tender, which will be in about 3 hours, -when it will be ready to serve. Remove -the bay-leaves before it is sent to table. -<i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Baked.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span> 1.] <i>Ingredients.</i>—About -2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small -onions, 1 large carrot or 2 small ones, -1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury -herbs, salt and pepper to taste, quite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> -½ pint of gravy, 3 tablespoonfuls of ale, -crust or mashed potatoes. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the beef in slices, allowing a small -amount of fat to each slice; place a -layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, -with a portion of the onions, carrots, and -turnips, which must be sliced; mince -the herbs, strew them over the meat, -and season with pepper and salt. Then -put another layer of meat, vegetables, -and seasoning; and proceed in this -manner until all the ingredients are -used. Pour in the gravy and ale (water -may be substituted for the former, but -it is not so nice), cover with a crust or -mashed potatoes, and bake for ½ hour, -or rather longer. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more -than ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of -the meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—It is as well to parboil the -carrots and turnips before adding them -to the meat, and to use some of the -liquor in which they were boiled as a -substitute for gravy; that is to say, -when there is no gravy at hand. Be -particular to cut the onions in very <i>thin</i> -slices.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span> 2.] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Slices -of cold roast beef, salt and pepper -to taste, 1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful -of minced savoury herbs, 12 tablespoonfuls -of gravy or sauce of any kind, -mashed potatoes. <i>Mode.</i>—Butter the sides -of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoes -over the bottom of it; on this place -layers of beef in thin slices (this may -be minced, if there is not sufficient -beef to cut into slices), well seasoned -with pepper and salt, and a very little -onion and herbs, which should be previously -fried of a nice brown; then put -another layer of mashed potatoes, and -beef, and other ingredients, as before; -pour in the gravy or sauce, cover the -whole with another layer of potatoes, and -bake for ½ hour. This may be served in -the dish, or turned out. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the cold beef, -6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—A large pie-dish full for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF-BONES, Broiled.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper -and cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate the -bones, taking care that the meat on them -is not too thick in any part; sprinkle -them well with the above seasoning, and -broil over a very clear fire. When nicely -browned, they are done; but do not allow -them to blacken.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Brisket of, à la Flamande.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 6 or 8 lbs. of the -brisket of beef, 4 or 5 slices of bacon, -2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury -herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 -cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of -mace. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose that portion of -the brisket which contains the gristle, -trim it, and put it into a stewpan with the -slices of bacon, which should be placed -under and over the meat. Add the -vegetables, herbs, spices, and seasoning, -and cover with a little weak stock or -water; shut the stewpan-lid as closely as -possible, and simmer very gently for 4 -hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion -of it for sauce, and the remainder -boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced -to a glaze, with which glaze the -meat. Garnish the dish with scooped -carrots and turnips, and, when liked, a -little cabbage; all of which must be -cooked separately. Thicken and flavour -the liquor that was saved for sauce, pour -it round the meat, and serve. The beef -may also be garnished with glazed onions, -artichoke-bottoms, &c. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Brisket of, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—7 lbs. of the brisket of -beef, vinegar and salt, 6 carrots, 6 -turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of -pounded mace, 2 whole allspice pounded, -thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls -of ketchup; stock, or water. -<i>Mode.</i>—About an hour before dressing -it, rub the meat over with vinegar and -salt; put it into a stewpan, with sufficient -stock to cover it (when this is not -at hand, water may be substituted for -it), and be particular that the stewpan -is not much larger than the meat. Skim -well, and when it has simmered very -gently for 1 hour, put in the vegetables, -and continue simmering till the meat is -perfectly tender. Draw out the bones, -dish the meat, and garnish either with -tufts of cauliflower or braised cabbage -cut in quarters. Thicken as much gravy -as required, with a little butter and flour; -add spices and ketchup in the above proportion, -give one boil, pour some of it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> -over the meat, and the remainder send -in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remainder of the liquor in -which the beef was boiled may be served -as a soup, or it may be sent to table with -the meat in a tureen.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Broiled, and Mushroom -Sauce.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—2 -or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, -1 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, -1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, -mashed potatoes, slices of cold roast beef. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wipe the mushrooms free from -grit with a piece of flannel, and salt; put -them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, -and ketchup; stir over the fire -until the mushrooms are quite done, when -pour it in the middle of mashed potatoes, -browned. Then place round the potatoes -slices of cold roast beef, nicely -broiled over a clear fire. In making the -mushroom sauce the ketchup may be dispensed -with, if there is sufficient gravy. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the meat, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to October.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Broiled, and Oyster Sauce.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—2 -dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of -mace, 2 oz. of butter, ½ teaspoonful of -flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed -potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the oysters in a stewpan, -with their liquor strained; add the -cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, -and let them simmer gently for -5 minutes. Have ready in the centre -of a dish round walls of mashed potatoes, -browned; into the middle pour -the oyster sauce quite hot, and round -the potatoes place, in layers, slices of -the beef, which should be previously -broiled over a nice clear fire. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, exclusive -of the cold meat. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or -5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to April.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few thin slices of cold boiled beef; -butter, cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Fry the -slices of beef gently in a little butter, -taking care not to dry them up. Lay -them on a flat dish, and cover with -fried greens. The greens may be prepared -from cabbage sprouts or green -savoys. They should be boiled till tender, -well drained, minced, and placed -till quite hot in a frying-pan, with butter, -a sliced onion, and seasoning of pepper -and salt. When the onion is done it is -ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the cold -beef, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF CAKE.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast beef; to each -pound of cold meat allow ¼ lb. of bacon -or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper and -salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury -herbs, 1 or 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the beef -very finely (if underdone it will be better), -add to it the bacon, which must also be -chopped very small, and mix well together. -Season, stir in the herbs, and bind -with an egg, or 2 should 1 not be -sufficient. Make it into small square -cakes, about ½ inch thick, fry them in -hot dripping, drain them, and serve in -a dish with good gravy poured round. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cold meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Collared.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 293px;"> -<img src="images/illus-030.jpg" width="293" height="197" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">COLLARED BEEF.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—7 lbs. of the thin end -of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of coarse -sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, -1 large handful of parsley, minced, 1 -dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch -of savoury herbs, ½ teaspoonful of -pounded allspice; salt and pepper to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose fine tender beef, -but not too fat; lay it in a dish, rub in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> -the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it -remain in the pickle for a week or ten -days, turning and rubbing it every day. -Then bone it, remove all the gristle and -the coarse skin of the inside part, and -sprinkle it thickly with parsley, herbs, -spice, and seasoning in the above proportion, -taking care that the former are -finely minced, and the latter well pounded. -Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly -as possible; bind it firmly with broad -tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. -Immediately on taking it out of the pot -put it under a good weight, without -undoing it, and let it remain until cold. -This dish is a very nice addition to the -breakfast-table. <i>Time.</i>—6 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, for this quantity, 4<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—During the time the beef is in -pickle it should be kept cool, and regularly -rubbed and turned every day.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF COLLOPS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of rump-steak, -¼ lb. of butter, 1 pint of gravy (water -may be substituted for this), salt and -pepper to taste, 1 shalot, finely minced, -½ pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers. -<i>Mode.</i>—Have the steak cut thin, -and divide it in pieces about 3 inches -long; beat these with the blade of a -knife, and dredge with flour. Put -them in a frying-pan with the butter, -and let them fry for about 3 minutes; -then lay them in a small stewpan, and -pour over them the gravy. Add a piece -of butter kneaded with a little flour, put -in the seasoning and all the other ingredients, -and let the whole simmer, but -not boil, for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot -covered dish. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF CARVING.</h3> - -<p><b>Beef, Aitchbone of.</b>—A boiled -aitchbone of beef is not a difficult joint -to carve, as will be seen on reference to -the accompanying engraving. By following -with the knife the direction of the -line from 1 to 2, nice slices will be easily -cut. It may be necessary, as in a round -of beef, to cut a thick slice off the outside -before commencing to serve.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;"> -<img src="images/illus-031a.jpg" width="257" height="143" alt="drawing of slab of beef" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Beef, Brisket of.</b>—There is but -little description necessary to add to -show the carving of a boiled brisket of -beef beyond the engraving here inserted. -The only point to be observed is, that -the joint should be cut evenly and firmly -quite across the bones, so that on its -reappearance at table it should not have -a jagged and untidy look.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/illus-031b.jpg" width="286" height="118" alt="different slab" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Beef, Ribs of.</b>—This dish resembles -the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or -undercut. As explained in the recipes, -the end piece is often cut off, salted and -boiled. The mode of carving is similar to -that of the sirloin, viz., in the direction of -the dotted line from 1 to 2. This joint -will be the more easily cut if the plan be -pursued which is suggested in carving the -sirloin; namely, the inserting of the knife -immediately between the bone and the -meat, before commencing to cut it into -slices. All joints of roast beef should be -cut in even and thin slices. Horseradish, -finely scraped, may be served as a garnish; -but horseradish sauce is preferable for -eating with the beef.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 236px;"> -<img src="images/illus-031c.jpg" width="236" height="117" alt="another slab with diagram letters" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Beef, a Round of.</b>—A round of -beef is more easily carved than any other -joint of beef, but, to manage it properly, -a thin-bladed and very sharp knife is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>necessary. Off the outside of the joint, -at its top, a thick slice should first be cut, -so as to leave the surface smooth: then -thin and even slices should be cleverly -carved in the direction of the line 1 to 2; -and with each slice of the lean a delicate -morsel of the fat should be served.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;"> -<img src="images/illus-031d.jpg" width="257" height="134" alt="looks like the collared beef above" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Beef, Sirloin of.</b>—This dish is -served differently at various tables, some -preferring it to come to table with the -fillet, or, as it is usually called, the -undercut, uppermost. The reverse way, -as shown in the cut, is that most usually -adopted. Still the undercut is best eaten -when hot; consequently, the carver himself -may raise the joint, and cut some -slices from the under side, in the direction -of from 1 to 2, as the fillet is very much -preferred by some eaters. The upper -part of the sirloin should be cut in the -direction of the line from 5 to 6, and care -should be taken to carve it evenly and in -thin slices. It will be found a great -assistance, in carving this joint well, if the -knife be first inserted just above the bone -at the bottom, and run sharply along -between the bone and meat, and also to -divide the meat from the bone in the -same way at the side of the joint; -the slices will then come away more -readily. Some carvers cut the upper side -of the sirloin across, as shown by the line -from 3 to 4; but this is a wasteful plan, -and one not to be recommended. With the -sirloin, very finely-scraped horseradish is -usually served, and a little given, when -liked, to each guest. Horseradish sauce -is preferable, however, for serving on the -plate, although the scraped horseradish -may still be used as a garnish.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;"> -<img src="images/illus-032a.jpg" width="246" height="148" alt="diagram of ribs" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Beef Tongue.</b>—Passing the knife -down in the direction of from 1 to 2, a -not too thin slice should be helped; and -the carving of a tongue may be continued -in this way until the best portions of the -upper side are served. The fat which -lies about the root can be served by turning -the tongue, and cutting in the direction -of from 3 to 4.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"> -<img src="images/illus-032b.jpg" width="266" height="99" alt="another carving diagram" /> -</div> - - -<h3>BEEF, Curried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few slices of tolerably lean cold roast -or boiled beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, -1 wineglassful of beer, a dessertspoonful -of curry powder. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the beef -into pieces about 1 inch square, put the -butter into a stewpan with the onions -sliced, and fry them of a light-brown -colour. Add all the other ingredients, and -stir gently over a brisk fire for about 10 -minutes. Should this be thought too dry, -more beer, or a spoonful or two of gravy -or water, may be added; but a good curry -should not be very thin. Place it in a -deep dish, with an edging of dry boiled -rice, in the same manner as for other -curries. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Roast Fillet of (Larded).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 4 lbs. of the inside -fillet of the sirloin, 1 onion, a small -bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to -taste, sufficient vinegar to cover the -meat, glaze, Spanish sauce (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#SAUCES">Sauce</a></span>). -<i>Mode.</i>—Lard the beef with bacon, and -put it into a pan with sufficient vinegar -to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, -and seasoning, and let it remain in this -pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a -nice clear fire for about 1¼ hour, and, -when done, glaze it. Pour some Spanish -sauce round the beef, and the remainder -serve in a tureen. It may be garnished -with Spanish onions boiled and glazed. -<i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the sauce, 4<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 8 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Fricandeau of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 3 lbs. of the inside -fillet of the sirloin (a piece of the rump -may be substituted for this), pepper and -salt to taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 -whole allspice, 1 pint of stock (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#STOCKS">Stock</a></span>), -or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of -savoury herbs, 2 shalots, bacon. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -some bacon into thin strips, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> -sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper -and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and -allspice, well pounded. Lard the beef with -these, put it into a stewpan with the stock -or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, -and more pepper and salt. Stew the meat -gently until tender, when take it out, -cover it closely, skim off all the fat from -the gravy, and strain it. Set it on -the fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. -Glaze the larded side of the beef with this, -and serve on sorrel sauce, which is -made as follows:—Wash and pick some -sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with -only the water that hangs about it. Keep -stirring, to prevent its burning, and when -done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, -and stew it with a small piece of butter -and 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, -for an hour, and rub it through a sieve. -If too acid, add sugar; a little cabbage-lettuce -boiled with the sorrel will be -found an improvement. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours -to gently stew the meat. <i>Average cost</i>, -for this quantity, 4<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Fried Salt.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to -taste, ½ lb. of butter, mashed potatoes. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut any part of cold salt beef -into thin slices, fry them gently in butter, -and season with a little pepper. Have -ready some very hot mashed potatoes, -lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish -with 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt -beef, warmed in a little liquor from mixed -pickle, drained, and served as above, will -be found good. <i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast beef, pepper -and salt to taste, ¾ lb. of flour, ½ pint of -water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of -2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix very smoothly, -and, by degrees, the flour with the above -proportion of water; stir in 2 oz. of butter, -which must be melted but not oiled, -and, just before it is to be used, add the -whites of two well-whisked eggs. Should -the batter be too thick, more water must -be added. Pare down the cold beef into -thin shreds, season with pepper and salt, -and mix it with the batter. Drop a -small quantity at a time into a pan of -boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10 minutes, -according to the size. When -done on one side, turn and brown them -on the other. Let them dry for a minute -or two before the fire, and serve on a -folded napkin. A small quantity of -finely-minced onions, mixed with the -batter, is an improvement. <i>Time.</i>—From -7 to 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Hashed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span> 1.] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Gravy -saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful -of tomato sauce, one teaspoonful of -Harvey’s sauce, one teaspoonful of good -mushroom ketchup, ½ glass of port -wine or strong ale, pepper and salt -to taste, a little flour to thicken, 1 onion -finely minced, a few slices of cold roast -beef. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all the ingredients -but the beef into a stewpan with whatever -gravy may have been saved from the meat -the day it was roasted; simmer these -gently for 10 minutes, then take the -stewpan off the fire; let the gravy cool -and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into -thin slices, dredge them with flour, and -lay them in the gravy; let the whole -simmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, -or the meat will be tough and hard. Serve -very hot, and garnish with sippets of -toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. -Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, -4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span> 2.] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, -2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 bunch of savoury -herbs, pepper and salt to taste, ½ blade -of pounded mace, thickening of flour, -rather more than 1 pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take off all the meat from the -bones of ribs or sirloin of beef; remove -the outside brown and gristle; place -the meat on one side, and well stew -the bones and pieces, with the above -ingredients, for about 2 hours, till it -becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced -to rather more than ½ pint; strain this, -thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, and -let the gravy cool; skim off all the fat; lay -in the meat, let it get hot through, but -do not allow it to boil; and garnish with -sippets of toasted bread. The gravy -should be flavoured as in the preceding -recipe. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -cold meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Either of the above recipes may -be served in walls of mashed potatoes -browned; in which case the sippets should -be omitted. <i>Be careful that hashed meat -does not boil, or it will become tough.</i></p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Hunter’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For a round of beef -weighing 25 lbs. allow 3 oz. of saltpetre, -3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, -1 grated nutmeg, ½ oz. of allspice, 1 lb. -of salt, ½ lb. bay-salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Hang -the beef for 2 or 3 days, and remove -the bone. Pound spices, salt, &c. in -the above proportion, and let them be -reduced to the finest powder. Put the -beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients -well into it, and turn and rub it every -day for rather more than a fortnight. -When it has been sufficiently long in -pickle, wash the meat, bind it up securely -with tape, and put it into a pan -with ½ pint of water at the bottom; mince -some suet, cover the top of the meat with -it, and over the pan put a common crust -of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and -when cold remove the paste. Save the -gravy that flows from it, as it adds -greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, -&c. The beef may be glazed and -garnished with meat jelly. <i>Time.</i>—6 -hours. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In salting or pickling beef or -pork for family consumption, it not being -generally required to be kept for a great -length of time, a less quantity of salt and -a larger quantity of other matters more -adapted to retain mellowness in meat, -may be employed, which could not be -adopted by the curer of the immense -quantities of meat required to be preserved -for victualling the shipping of this -maritime country. Sugar, which is well -known to possess the preserving principle -in a very great degree, without the -pungency and astringency of salt, may -be, and is, very generally used in the -preserving of meat for family consumption. -Although it acts without corrugating or -contracting the fibres of meat, as is the -case in the action of salt, and, therefore, -does not impair its mellowness, yet its -use in sufficient quantities for preservative -effect, without the addition of other -antiseptics, would impart a flavour not -agreeable to the taste of many persons. -It may be used, however, together with -salt, with the greatest advantage in -imparting mildness and mellowness to -cured meat, in a proportion of about one -part by weight to four of the mixture; -and, perhaps, now that sugar is so much -lower in price than it was in former -years, one of the obstructions to its more -frequent use is removed.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF KIDNEY, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 kidney, clarified butter, -pepper and salt to taste, a small -quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon-juice, ¼ teaspoonful -of powdered sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -kidneys into neat slices, put them into -warm water to soak for two hours, and -change the water 2 or 3 times; then lay -them on a clean cloth to dry the water -from them, place them in a frying-pan -with some clarified butter, and fry -them of a nice brown; season each side -with pepper and salt, put them round -the dish, with the gravy in the middle. -Before pouring the gravy in the dish, -add the lemon-juice and sugar. <i>Time.</i>—From -5 to 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF KIDNEY, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful -of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of -minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste; -¼ pint of gravy (follow one of the gravy -recipes), 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take off a little of the kidney -fat, mince it very fine, and put it in a -frying-pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle -over it parsley and shalots in the above -proportion, add a seasoning of pepper -and salt, and fry it of a nice brown. -When it is done enough, dredge over a -little flour, and pour in the gravy and -sherry. Let it just simmer, but not -boil any more, or the kidney would -harden; serve very hot, and garnish -with croûtons. Where the flavour of the -shalot is disliked it may be omitted, and -a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted -for it. <i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 10 minutes, -according to the thickness of the -slices. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF KIDNEY, to Dress (a more -simple method).</h3> - -<p>Cut the kidneys into thin slices, flour -them, and fry of a nice brown. When -done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring -away the fat, putting in a small piece<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> -of butter, ¼ pint of boiling water, pepper -and salt, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, -and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. -Let the gravy just boil up, pour over the -kidney, and serve.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF MARROW-BONES, Boiled.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 242px;"> -<img src="images/illus-035.jpg" width="242" height="123" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">MARROW-BONES.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bones, a small piece of -common paste, a floured cloth. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -the bones neatly sawed into convenient -sizes, and cover the ends with a -small piece -of common -crust, made -with flour -and water. -Over this tie -a floured -cloth, and -place them -upright in a saucepan of boiling water, -taking care there is sufficient to cover -the bones. Boil the bones for 2 hours, -remove the cloth and paste, and serve -them upright on a napkin with dry toast. -Many persons clear the marrow from the -bones after they are cooked, spread it -over a slice of toast, and add a seasoning -of pepper; when served in this manner, -it must be very expeditiously sent to -table, as it so soon gets cold. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Marrow-bones may be baked -after preparing them as in the preceding -recipe; they should be laid in a deep -dish, and baked for 2 hours.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Minced.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—1 -oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 12 tablespoonfuls -of gravy left from the meat, -1 tablespoonful of strong ale, 1 teaspoonful -of flour, salt and pepper to -taste, a few slices of lean roast beef. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put into a stewpan the butter -with an onion chopped fine; add the -gravy, ale, and a teaspoonful of flour to -thicken; season with pepper and salt, -and stir these ingredients over the fire -until the onion is a rich brown. Cut (but -do not chop) the meat <i>very fine</i>, add it to -the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. -Garnish with sippets of toasted bread. -Be careful in not allowing the gravy to -boil after the meat is added, as it would -render it hard and tough. <i>Time.</i>—About -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -meat, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Minced Collops of (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of rump-steak, salt -and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, -1 onion minced, ¼ pint of water, 1 tablespoonful -of Harvey’s sauce, or lemon-juice, -or mushroom ketchup; 1 small -bunch of savoury herbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince -the beef and onion very small, and -fry the latter in butter until of a pale -brown. Put all the ingredients together -in a stewpan, and boil gently for about -10 minutes; garnish with sippets of -toasted bread, and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 2 or 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Miroton of.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of -butter, salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, -½ pint of gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the onions -and put them into the frying-pan with -the cold beef and butter; place it over -the fire, and keep turning and stirring -the ingredients to prevent them burning. -When a pale brown, add the gravy and -seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, -and serve very hot. The dish is excellent -and economical. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF OLIVES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of rump-steak, -1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of minced savoury -herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of -stock, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls -of any kind of store sauce, a -slight thickening of butter and flour. -Mode.—Have the steaks cut rather thin, -beat them to make them level, cut them -into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, -and sprinkle with herbs, which should be -very finely minced; season with pepper -and salt, roll up the pieces tightly, and -fasten with a small skewer. Put the stock -in a stewpan that will exactly hold the ingredients, -for, by being pressed together, -they will keep their shape better; lay in -the rolls of meat, cover them with the -bacon, cut in thin slices, and over that -put a piece of paper. Stew them very -<i>gently</i> for full 2 hours; for the slower -they are done the better. Take them -out, remove the skewers, thicken the -gravy with butter and flour, and flavour<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> -with any store sauce that may be preferred. -Give one boil, pour over the -meat, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per pound. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF OLIVES (Economical).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of underdone cold roast -beef, bread-crumbs, 1 shalot finely -minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy -made from the beef bones, thickening -of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful -of mushroom ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -some slices of underdone roast beef about -half an inch thick; sprinkle over them -some bread-crumbs, minced shalot, and -a little of the fat and seasoning; roll -them, and fasten with a small skewer. -Have ready some gravy made from the -beef bones; put in the pieces of meat, -and stew them till tender, which will be -in about 1¼ hour, or rather longer. Arrange -the meat in a dish, thicken and -flavour the gravy, and pour it over the -meat, when it is ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -beef, 2<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF PALATES, to Dress (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 palates, sufficient -gravy to cover them, cayenne to taste, -1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, -1 tablespoonful of pickled-onion liquor, -thickening of butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the palates, and put them -into a stewpan, with sufficient water to -cover them, and let them boil until perfectly -tender, or until the upper skin -may be easily peeled off. Have ready -sufficient gravy to cover them; add a -good seasoning of cayenne, and thicken -with a little butter kneaded with -flour; let it boil up, and skim. Cut the -palates into square pieces, put them in -the gravy, and let them simmer gently -for ½ hour; add ketchup and onion-liquor, -give one boil, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—From -3 to 5 hours to boil the palates. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Palates may be dressed in various -ways with good onion sauce, -tomato sauce, &c., &c., and may also be -served in a <i>vol-au-vent</i>; but the above -will be found a more simple method of -dressing them.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF PICKLE. (This may also -be used for any kind of Meat, -Tongues, or Hams.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 lbs. of salt, 2 lbs. of -fine sugar, 3 oz. of powdered saltpetre, -3 gallons of spring water. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -all the ingredients gently together, so -long as any scum or impurity arises, -which carefully remove; when quite -cold, pour it over the meat, every part of -which must be covered with the brine. -This may be used for pickling any kind -of meat, and may be kept for some time, -if boiled up occasionally with an addition -of the ingredients. <i>Time.</i>—A ham should -be kept in pickle for a fortnight; a piece -of beef weighing 14 lbs., 12 or 15 days; a -tongue, 10 days or a fortnight.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—For salting and pickling meat, -it is a good plan to rub in only half the -quantity of salt directed, and to let it -remain for a day or two to disgorge and -effectually to get rid of the blood and -slime; then rub in the remainder of the -salt and other ingredients, and proceed -as above. This rule may be applied to -all recipes for salting and pickling meat.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Potted.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 207px;"> -<img src="images/illus-036.jpg" width="207" height="112" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JAR FOR POTTED MEATS.</div> -</div> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span> 1.] <i>Ingredients.</i>—2 -lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of -water, ¼ lb. of butter, a seasoning to -taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, -and black pepper. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure a -nice piece of -lean beef, as -free as possible -from gristle, -skin, &c., and -put it into a jar -(if at hand, one -with a lid) with -1 tablespoonful -of water. -Cover it <i>closely</i>, and put the jar into a -saucepan of boiling water, letting the -water come within 2 inches of the top of -the jar. Boil gently for 3½ hours, then -take the beef, chop it very small with a -chopping-knife, and pound it thoroughly -in a mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, -or a portion, of the gravy that will have -run from it, and a little clarified butter; -add the seasoning, put it in small pots -for use, and cover with a little butter -just warmed and poured over. If much -gravy is added to it, it will keep but a -short time; on the contrary, if a large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> -proportion of butter is used, it may be -preserved for some time. <i>Time.</i>—3½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span> 2.] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast or boiled beef, -¼ lb. of butter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades -of pounded mace. <i>Mode.</i>—The outside -slices of boiled beef may, with a little -trouble, be converted into a very nice -addition to the breakfast-table. Cut up -the meat into small pieces and pound it -well, with a little butter, in a mortar; -add a seasoning of cayenne and mace, -and be very particular that the latter -spice is reduced to the finest powder. -When all the ingredients are -thoroughly mixed, put them into glass or -earthen potting-pots, and pour on the -top a coating of clarified butter. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If cold <i>roast</i> beef is used, remove -all pieces of gristle and dry outside -pieces, as these do not pound well.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF RAGOÛT.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—About -2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 6 onions, -pepper, salt, and mixed spices to taste; -½ pint of boiling water, 3 tablespoonfuls -of gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the beef into -rather large pieces, and put them into -a stewpan with the onions, which must -be sliced. Season well with pepper, salt, -and mixed spices, and pour over about ½ -pint of boiling water, and gravy in the -above proportion (gravy saved from the -meat answers the purpose); let the whole -stew very gently for about 2 hours, and -serve with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or -capers, just warmed in the gravy. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -meat, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Rib-bones of (a pretty Dish).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Ribs -of beef bones, 1 onion chopped -fine, a few slices of carrot and turnip, -¼ pint of gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—The bones -for this dish should have left on them -a slight covering of meat; saw them -into pieces 3 inches long; season them -with pepper and salt, and put them into -a stewpan with the remaining ingredients. -Stew gently, until the vegetables -are tender, and serve on a flat dish within -walls of mashed potatoes, <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the bones, 2<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Roast Ribs of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Beef, a little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—The -fore-rib is considered the primest -roasting piece, but the middle-rib is considered -the most economical. Let the -meat be well hung (should the weather -permit), having previously cut off the -ends of the bones, which should be -salted for a few days, and then boiled. -Put the meat down to a nice clear fire, -with some clean dripping in the pan, -dredge the joint with a little flour, and -keep continually basting it all the time -it is cooking. Sprinkle some fine salt -over it (this must never be done until -the joint is dished, as it draws the -juices from the meat); pour the dripping -from the pan, put in a little -boiling water, and <i>strain</i> the gravy over -the meat. Garnish with tufts of scraped -horseradish, and send horseradish sauce -to table with it. A Yorkshire pudding -(<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#PUDDING_Yorkshire">Puddings</a></span>) sometimes accompanies -this dish, and, if lightly made and well -cooked, will be found a very agreeable -addition. <i>Time.</i>—10 lbs. of beef, 2½ -hours; 14 to 16 lbs., from 3½ to 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A -joint of 10 lbs. sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Roast Ribs of, Boned and -Rolled (a very convenient Joint -for a small Family).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 or 2 ribs of beef. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose a fine rib of beef, and -have it cut according to the weight -you require, either wide or narrow. -Bone and roll the meat round, secure -it with wooden skewers, and, if necessary, -bind it round with a piece of tape. -Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle-jack -is used, put the joint on the hook, -and place it <i>near</i> a nice clear fire. Let -it remain so till the outside of the meat -is set, when draw it to a distance, and -keep continually basting until the meat -is done, which can be ascertained by the -steam from it drawing towards the fire. -As this joint is solid, rather more than -¼ hour must be allowed for each lb. -Remove the skewers, put in a plated or -silver one, and send the joint to table -with gravy in the dish, and garnish with -tufts of horseradish. Horseradish sauce -is a great improvement to roast beef.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> -<i>Time.</i>—For 10 lbs. of the rolled ribs, 3 -hours (as the joint is very solid, we have -allowed an extra ½ hour); for 6 lbs., 1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A -joint of 10 lbs. for 6 or 8 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When the weight exceeds 10 -lbs., we would not advise the above -method of boning or rolling; only in the -case of 1 or 2 ribs, when the joint cannot -stand upright in the dish, and would -look awkwardly. The bones should be -put on with a few vegetables and herbs, -and made into stock.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF RISSOLES.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast beef; to -each pound of meat allow ¾ lb. of bread-crumbs, -salt and pepper to taste, a few -chopped savoury herbs, ½ a teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2 eggs, according -to the quantity of meat. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince -the beef very fine, which should -be rather lean, and mix with this bread-crumbs, -herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, -in the above proportion, to each -pound of meat. Make all into a thick -paste with 1 or 2 eggs; divide into balls -or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish -the dish with fried parsley, and send -to table some good brown gravy in -a tureen. Instead of garnishing with -fried parsley, gravy may be poured in -the dish round the rissoles; in this case, -it will not be necessary to send any in a -tureen. <i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 10 minutes, -according to size. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the meat, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Rolled, to eat like Hare.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 5 lbs. of the inside -of the sirloin, 2 glasses of port -wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity -of forcemeat, 1 teaspoonful of -pounded allspice. <i>Mode.</i>—Take the inside -of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass -of port wine and 1 glass of vinegar, -mixed, and let it remain for 2 days. -Make a forcemeat (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#FORCEMEATS">Forcemeat</a></span>), lay -it on the meat, and bind it up securely. -Roast it before a nice clear fire, and -baste it with 1 glass each of port wine -and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful -of pounded allspice. Serve, with a -good gravy in the dish, and send red-currant -jelly to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—A -piece of 5 lbs., about 1½ hour before a -brisk fire. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -5<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF ROLLS.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast or boiled -beef, seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, -and minced herbs; puff paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince -the beef tolerably fine with a -<i>small</i> amount of its own fat; add a seasoning -of pepper, salt, and chopped -herbs; put the whole into a roll of puff -paste, and bake for ½ hour, or rather -longer, should the roll be very large. -Beef patties may be made of cold meat, -by mincing and seasoning beef as directed -above, and baking in a rich puff -paste in patty-tins. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Boiled Round of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Beef, water. <i>Mode.</i>—As -a whole round of beef, generally speaking, -is too large for small families, and very -seldom required, we here give the recipe -for dressing a portion of the silver side -of the round. Take from 12 to 16 lbs., -after it has been in salt about 10 days; -just wash off the salt, skewer it up in a -nice round-looking form, and bind it with -tape to keep the skewers in their places. -Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, -set it upon a good fire, and when it -begins to boil, carefully remove all scum -from the surface, as, if this is not attended -to, it sinks on to the meat, and, -when brought to table, presents a very -unsightly appearance. After it is well -skimmed, draw the pot to the corner of -the fire, allow the liquor to cool, then -let the beef simmer very gently until -done. Remove the tape and skewers, -which should be replaced by a silver -one; pour over a little of the pot-liquor, -and garnish with carrots. Carrots, -turnips, parsnips, and sometimes -suet dumplings, accompany this dish; -and these may all be boiled with the -beef. The pot-liquor should be saved, -and converted into pea-soup; and the -outside slices, which are generally hard, -and of an uninviting appearance, may be -cut off before being sent to table, and -potted. These make an excellent relish -for the breakfast or luncheon table. -<i>Time.</i>—Part of a round of beef weighing -12 lbs., about 3 hours after the water -boils. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> -for 10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but more suitable for winter.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Soyer’s Recipe for Preserving the -Gravy in Salt Meat, when it is to be -served Cold.</b>—Fill two tubs with cold -water, into which throw a few pounds of -rough ice; and when the meat is done, -put it into one of the tubs of ice-water; -let it remain 1 minute, when take out, -and put it into the other tub. Fill the first -tub again with water, and continue this -process for about 20 minutes; then set -it upon a dish, and let it remain until -quite cold. When cut, the fat will be -as white as possible, besides having -saved the whole of the gravy. If there -is no ice, spring water will answer the -same purpose, but will require to be -more frequently changed.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The brisket and rump may be -boiled by the above recipe; of course -allowing more or less time, according to -the size of the joint.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Miniature Round of (an excellent -Dish for a small Family).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—From 5 to 10 lbs. of ribs -of beef, sufficient brine to cover the meat. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose a fine rib, have the bone -removed, rub some salt over the inside, -and skewer the meat up into a nice round -form, and bind it with tape. Put it into -sufficient brine to cover it (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#PICKLE_for_Tongues_or_Beef">Beef -Pickle</a></span>), and let it remain for 6 days, turning -the meat every day. When required to -be dressed, drain from the pickle, and -put the meat into very hot water; boil it -rapidly for a few minutes, then draw -the pot to the side of the fire, and simmer -the beef very gently until done. Remove -the skewer, and replace it by a plated -or silver one. Carrots and turnips should -be served with this dish, and may be -boiled with the meat. <i>Time.</i>—A small -round of 8 lbs., about 2 hours after the -water boils; one of 12 lbs., about 3 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Should the joint be very small, -4 or 5 days will be sufficient time to -salt it.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, to Pickle part of a Round, -for Hanging.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For 14 lbs. of a round of -beef allow 1½ lb. of salt, ½ oz. of powdered -saltpetre; or, 1 lb. of salt, ½ lb. of sugar, -½ oz. of powdered saltpetre. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub -in, and sprinkle either of the above -mixtures on 14 lbs. of meat. Keep it in -an earthenware pan, or a deep wooden -tray, and turn twice a week during 3 -weeks; then bind up the beef tightly -with coarse linen tape, and hang it in a -kitchen in which a fire is constantly -kept, for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and -bacon may be cured in a similar way, -but will require double the quantity of -the salting mixture; and, if not smoke-dried, -they should be taken down from -hanging after 3 or 4 weeks, and afterwards -kept in boxes or tubs, amongst -dry oat-husks. <i>Time.</i>—2 or 3 weeks to -remain in the brine, to be hung 3 weeks. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The meat may be boiled fresh -from this pickle, instead of smoking it.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF SAUSAGES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of suet allow -2 lbs. of lean beef; seasoning to taste of -salt, pepper, and mixed spices. <i>Mode.</i>—Clear -the suet from skin, and chop -that and the beef as finely as possible; -season with pepper, salt, and spices, and -mix the whole well together. Make it -into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown. -Many persons pound the meat in a mortar -after it is chopped, but this is not -necessary when the meat is minced -finely. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Roast Sirloin of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 305px;"> -<img src="images/illus-039.jpg" width="305" height="158" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Beef, a little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—As -a joint cannot be well roasted without -a good fire, see that it is well made -up about ¾ hour before it is required, so -that when the joint is put down, it is -clear and bright. Choose a nice sirloin, -the weight of which should not exceed -16 lbs., as the outside would be too -much done, whilst the inside would not be -done enough. Spit it or hook it on to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> -jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour, -and place it near the fire at first. Then -draw it to a distance, and keep continually -basting until the meat is done. -Dish the meat, sprinkle a small quantity -of salt over it, empty the dripping-pan -of all the dripping, pour in some boiling -water, stir it about, and <i>strain</i> over the -meat. Garnish with tufts of horseradish, -and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire -pudding to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—A -sirloin of 10 lbs., 2½ hours; 14 to 16 lbs., -about 4 or 4½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A joint of 10 lbs. for -8 or 9 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time. -The rump, round, and other pieces of beef -are roasted in the same manner, allowing -for solid joints ¼ hour to every lb.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The above is the usual method -of roasting meat; but to have it in perfection -and the juices kept in, the meat -should at first be laid <i>close</i> to the fire, -and when the outside is set and firm, -drawn away to a good distance, and then -left to roast very slowly. Where economy -is studied, this plan would not answer, -as the meat requires to be at the fire -double the time of the ordinary way of -cooking; consequently, double the quantity -of fuel would be consumed.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Sliced and Broiled (a pretty -Dish).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 -potatoes, a thin batter, pepper and salt -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare the potatoes as -you would peel an apple; fry the parings -in a thin batter seasoned with salt and -pepper, until they are of a light brown -colour, and place them on a dish over -some slices of beef, which should be -nicely seasoned and broiled. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes to broil the meat. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Spiced (to serve Cold).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—14 lbs. of the thick flank -or rump of beef, ½ lb. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. -of saltpetre, ¼ lb. of pounded allspice, -1 lb. of common salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the -sugar well into the beef, and let it lie for -12 hours; then rub the saltpetre and -allspice, both of which should be pounded, -over the meat, and let it remain for -another 12 hours; then rub in the salt. -Turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight, -soak it for a few hours in water, dry -with a cloth, cover with a coarse paste, -put a little water at the bottom of the -pan, and bake in a moderate oven for -4 hours. If it is not covered with a -paste, be careful to put the beef into a -deep vessel, and cover with a plate, or -it will be too crisp. During the time -the meat is in the oven it should be -turned once or twice. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Stewed. (A Polish Dish.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A thick beef or rump-steak -of about 2 lbs., an onion, some bread-crumbs, -pepper and salt, ¼ lb. of butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mince the onion fine, mix it -with the bread, pepper, and salt; make -deep incisions in the beef, but do not cut -it through; fill the spaces with the -bread, &c. Roll up the steak and put it -in a stewpan with the butter; let it stew -very gently for more than two hours; -serve it with its own gravy, thickened -with a little flour, and flavoured, as may -be required, either with tomato sauce, -ketchup, or Harvey’s sauce. <i>Time.</i>—About -2 hours, or rather more. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Stewed Rump of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ rump of beef, sufficient -stock to cover it, 4 tablespoonfuls of -vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, -1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 onions, 12 -cloves, pepper and salt to taste, thickening -of butter and flour, 1 glass of port -wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut out the bone, sprinkle -the meat with a little cayenne (this -must be sparingly used), and bind and -tie it firmly up with tape; put it into a -stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it, -add vinegar, ketchup, herbs, onions, -cloves, and seasonings in the above proportions, -and simmer very gently for 4 -or 5 hours, or until the meat is perfectly -tender, which may be ascertained by -piercing it with a thin skewer. When -done, remove the tape, lay it into a deep -dish, which keep hot; strain and skim -the gravy, thicken it with butter and -flour, add a glass of port wine and -any flavouring to make the gravy rich -and palatable; let it boil up, pour over -the meat, and serve. This dish may be -very much enriched by garnishing with -forcemeat balls, or filling up the space -whence the bone is taken with a good -forcemeat; sliced carrots, turnips, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> -onions boiled with the meat are also a -great improvement, and, where expense -is not objected to, it may be glazed. This, -however, is not necessary where a good -gravy is poured round and over the meat. -<i>Time.</i>—½ rump stewed gently from 4 to -5 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 8 or 10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A stock or gravy in which to -boil the meat may be made of the bone -and trimmings, by boiling them with -water, and adding carrots, onions, turnips, -and a bunch of sweet herbs. To -make this dish richer and more savoury, -half-roast the rump, and afterwards stew -it in strong stock and a little Madeira. -This is an expensive method, and is not, -after all, much better than a plainer-dressed -joint.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF, Stewed Shin of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A shin of beef, 1 head of -celery, 1 onion, a faggot of savoury herbs, -½ teaspoonful of allspice, ½ teaspoonful of -whole black pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button -onions, 2 turnips, thickening of butter -and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom -ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine; -pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -the bone sawn into 4 or 5 pieces, cover -with hot water, bring it to a boil, and -remove any scum that may rise to the -surface. Put in the celery, onion, herbs, -spice, and seasoning, and simmer very -gently until the meat is tender. Peel -the vegetables, cut them into any shape -fancy may dictate, and boil them with -the onions until tender; lift out the -beef, put it on a dish, which keep hot, -and thicken with butter and flour as -much of the liquor as will be wanted for -gravy; keep stirring till it boils, then -strain and skim. Put the gravy back in -the stewpan, add the seasoning, port wine, -and ketchup, give one boil, and pour it -over the beef; garnish with the boiled -carrots, turnips and onions. <i>Time.</i>—The -meat to be stewed about 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> per lb. with bone. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF-TEA.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, -1½ pint of water, 1 saltspoonful of salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Have the meat cut without fat -and bone, and choose a nice fleshy piece. -Cut it into small pieces about the size of -dice, and put it into a clean saucepan. -Add the water <i>cold</i> to it; put it on the -fire, and bring it to the boiling-point; -then skim well. Put in the salt when -the water boils, and <i>simmer</i> the beef-tea -<i>gently</i> from ½ to ¾ hour, removing any -more scum should it appear on the surface. -Strain the tea through a hair -sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When -wanted for use, remove every particle of -fat from the top; warm up as much as -may be required, adding, if necessary, a -little more salt. This preparation is simple -beef-tea, and is to be administered -to those invalids to whom flavourings and -seasonings are not allowed. When the -patient is very weak, use double the quantity -of meat to the same proportion of -water. Should the invalid be able to -take the tea prepared in a more palatable -manner, it is easy to make it so by following -the directions in Soyer’s recipe, -which is an admirable one for making -savoury beef-tea. Beef-tea is always -better when made the day before it is -wanted, and then warmed up. It is a -good plan to put the tea into a small cup -or basin, and to place this basin in a -saucepan of boiling water. When the -tea is hot, it is ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ -to ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per -pint. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 lb. of meat for -a pint of <i>good</i> beef-tea.</p> - - -<h3>BEEF-TEA, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of fleshy beef, 1 -pint of water, ½ saltspoonful of salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the beef into small square -pieces, after trimming off all the fat, and -put it into a baking-jar (these jars are -sold expressly for the purpose of making -soups, gravies, &c., in the oven, and are -arranged with tightly-fitting lids), with -the above proportion of water and salt; -close the jar well, place it in a warm but -not hot oven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. -When the oven is very fierce in the day-time, -it is a good plan to put the jar in at -night, and let it remain till next morning, -when the tea will be done. It should -be strained, and put by in a cool place until -wanted. It may also be flavoured with -an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, -&c., when the stomach is sufficiently -strong to take these. <i>Time.</i>—3 or 4 -hours, or to be left in the oven all night. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 lb. of meat for 1 pint of good -beef-tea.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>BEEF-TEA, Savoury (Soyer’s -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. -of butter, 1 clove, 2 button onions or ½ a -large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the beef into very -small dice; put it into a stewpan with -the butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir -the meat round over the fire for a few -minutes until it produces a thin gravy, -then add the water, and let it simmer -gently from ½ to ¾ of an hour, skimming -off every particle of fat. When done, -strain it through a sieve, and put it by -in a cool place until required. The same, -if wanted quite plain, is done by merely -omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; -the butter cannot be objectionable, as it -is taken out in skimming. <i>Time.</i>—½ to -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 lb. of beef to make 1 -pint of good beef-tea.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The meat left from beef-tea -may be boiled a little longer, and pounded -with spices, &c., for potting. It makes -a very nice breakfast dish.</p> - - -<h3>BEETROOT, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Beetroot; boiling water. -<i>Mode.</i>—When large, young, and juicy, -this vegetable makes a very excellent -addition to winter salads, and may easily -be converted into an economical and -quickly-made pickle. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#BEETROOT_Pickled">Beetroot, -Pickled</a></span>.) Beetroot is more frequently -served cold than hot: when the latter mode -is preferred, melted butter should be sent -to table with it. It may also be stewed -with button onions, or boiled and served -with roasted onions. Wash the beets -thoroughly; but do not prick or break -the skin before they are cooked, as they -would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. -Put them into boiling water, and -let them boil until tender, keeping them -well covered. If to be served hot, remove -the peel quickly, cut the beetroot into -thick slices, and send to table melted -butter. For salads, pickle, &c., let the -root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices. -<i>Time.</i>—Small beetroot, 1½ to 2 hours; -large, 2½ to 3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, in -full season, 2<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable.</i>—May -be had at any time.</p> - - -<h3><a id="BEETROOT_Pickled"></a>BEETROOT, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient vinegar to cover -the beets, 2 oz. of whole pepper, 2 oz. of -allspice to each gallon of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the beets free from dirt, and be -very careful not to prick the outside skin, -or they would lose their beautiful colour. -Put them into boiling water, let them -simmer gently, and when about three -parts done, which will be in 1½ hour, -take them out and let them cool. Boil -the vinegar with pepper and allspice, in -the above proportion, for 10 minutes, -and when cold, pour it on the beets, -which must be peeled and cut into slices -about ½ inch thick. Cover with bladder -to exclude the air, and in a week they -will be fit for use.</p> - - -<h3>BISCUITS, Crisp.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, the yolk of -1 egg, milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the flour and -the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk -to make the whole into a very stiff paste; -beat it well, and knead it until it is perfectly -smooth. Roll the paste out <i>very -thin</i>; with a round cutter shape it into -small biscuits, and bake them a nice -brown in a slow oven from 12 to 18 -minutes. <i>Time.</i>—12 to 18 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BISCUITS, Dessert, which may be -flavoured with Ground Ginger, -Cinnamon, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of butter, -½ lb. of sifted sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, -flavouring to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter -into a basin; warm it, but do not allow -it to oil; then with the hand beat it to -a cream. Add the flour by degrees, -then the sugar and flavouring, and -moisten the whole with the yolks of the -eggs, which should previously be well -beaten. When all the ingredients are -thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture -from a spoon on to a buttered paper, -leaving a distance between each cake, for -they spread as soon as they begin to get -warm. Bake in rather a slow oven from -12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the -biscuits acquire too much colour. In -making the above quantity, half may be -flavoured with ground ginger and the -other half with essence of lemon or currants, -to make a variety. With whatever -the preparation is flavoured, so are the -biscuits called, and an endless variety -may be made in this manner. <i>Time.</i>—12 -to 18 minutes, or rather longer, in a -very slow oven. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> -Sufficient</i> to make from 3 to 4 dozen -cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BISCUITS, Simple Hard.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow 2 oz. of butter, about ½ pint of -skimmed milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Warm the butter -in milk until the former is dissolved, -and then mix it with the flour into a very -stiff paste; beat it with a rolling-pin -until the dough looks perfectly smooth. -Roll it out thin; cut it with the top of a -glass into round biscuits; prick them -well, and bake them from 6 to 10 minutes. -The above is the proportion of milk -which we think would convert the flour -into a stiff paste; but should it be found -too much, an extra spoonful or two of -flour must be put in. These biscuits are -very nice for the cheese course. <i>Time.</i>—6 -to 10 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> -<img src="images/illus-043a.jpg" width="275" height="106" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST BLACK-COCK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BLACK-COCK, to Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Black-cock, butter, toast. -<i>Mode.</i>—Let these birds hang for a few -days, or they will be tough and tasteless, -if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, -and wipe the insides and outsides with a -damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. -Cut off the heads, and truss them, -the same as a roast fowl, cutting off the -toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. -Trussing them with the head on, as -shown in the engraving, is still practised -by many cooks, but the former method -is now considered the best. Put them -down to a brisk fire, well baste them -with butter, and serve with a piece of -toast under, and a good gravy and bread -sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover -the breast with vine-leaves and slices of -bacon, and then roast them. They -should be served in the same manner -and with the same accompaniments as -with the plainly-roasted birds. <i>Time.</i>—45 -to 50 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, from -5<i>s.</i> to 6<i>s.</i> the brace; but seldom bought. -<i>Sufficient</i>,—2 or 3 for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of August to the end of -December.</p> - - -<h3>BLACK-COCK, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/illus-043b.jpg" width="200" height="75" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BLACK-COCK.</div> -</div> - -<p>Skilful carving of game undoubtedly -adds to the pleasure of the guests at a -dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently -to be composed of such delicate -limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner -appears to more disadvantage -when mauling these pretty and favourite -dishes, than larger and more robust -<i>pièces de résistance</i>. This bird is variously -served with or without the head on; and, -although we do not personally object to -the appearance of the head as shown in -the woodcut, yet it seems to be more -in vogue to -serve it without. -The -carving is not -difficult, but -should be elegantly -and deftly done. Slices from the -breast, cut in the direction of the dotted -line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the -merrythought displaced, and the leg and -wing removed by running the knife along -from 3 to 4, reserving the thigh, which -is considered a great delicacy, for the -most honoured guests, some of whom may -also esteem the brains of this bird.</p> - - -<h3>BLANCMANGE (a Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of new milk, -1¼ oz. of isinglass, the rind of ½ lemon, -¼ lb. of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, -½ oz. of sweet almonds, 1 pint of cream. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a saucepan, -with the isinglass, lemon-rind, and sugar, -and let these ingredients stand by the -side of the fire until the milk is well flavoured; -add the almonds, which should -be blanched and pounded in a mortar -to a paste, and let the milk just boil -up; strain it through a fine sieve or -muslin into a jug, add the cream, and -stir the mixture occasionally until -nearly cold. Let it stand for a few -minutes, then pour it into the mould, -which should be previously oiled with -the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold -water. There will be a sediment at the -bottom of the jug, which must not be -poured into the mould, as, when turned -out, it would very much disfigure the -appearance of the blancmange. This -blancmange may be made very much -richer by using 1½ pint of cream, and -melting the isinglass in ½ pint of boiling -water. The flavour may also be very much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> -varied by adding bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, -or essence of vanilla, instead of the lemon-rind -and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, -Curaçoa, or any favourite liqueur, added -in small proportions, very much enhances -the flavour of this always favourite dish. -In turning it out, just loosen the edges -of the blancmange from the mould, place -a dish on it, and turn it quickly over: it -should come out easily, and the blancmange -have a smooth glossy appearance -when the mould is oiled, which it frequently -has not when it is only dipped in -water. It may be garnished as fancy -dictates. <i>Time.</i>—About 1½ hour to steep -the lemon-rind and almonds in the milk. -<i>Average cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"> -<img src="images/illus-044a.jpg" width="254" height="225" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BLANC-MANGE MOULD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BLANCMANGE, Cheap.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of sugar, 1 quart of -milk, 1½ oz. of isinglass, the rind of ½ -lemon, 4 laurel-leaves. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all -the ingredients into a lined saucepan, -and boil gently until the isinglass is dissolved; -taste it occasionally to ascertain -when it is sufficiently flavoured with the -laurel-leaves; then take them out, and -keep stirring the mixture over the fire -for about 10 minutes. Strain it through -a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly -cold, pour it into a well-oiled mould, -omitting the sediment at the bottom. -Turn it out carefully on a dish, and garnish -with preserves, bright jelly, or a -compôte of fruit. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill -a quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 280px;"> -<img src="images/illus-044b.jpg" width="280" height="124" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BLANC-MANGE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BOUDIN à la REINE (an Entrée; -M. Ude’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -fowls, 1 pint of Béchamel, salt and cayenne -to taste, egg and bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take the breasts and nice white -meat from the fowls; cut it into small dice -of an equal size, and throw them into some -good Béchamel (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#BECHAMEL_or_French_White_Sauce">Béchamel</a></span>); season -with salt and cayenne, and put the mixture -into a dish to cool. When this preparation -is quite cold, cut it into 2 equal -parts, which should be made into boudins -of a long shape, the size of the dish they -are intended to be served on; roll them -in flour, egg and bread-crumb them, and -be careful that the ends are well covered -with the crumbs, otherwise they will -break in the frying-pan; fry them a nice -colour, put them before the fire to drain -the greasy moisture from them, and -serve with the remainder of the Béchamel -poured round: this should be -thinned with a little stock. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to fry the boudins. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the fowl, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 entrée.</p> - - -<h3>BRAWN, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To a pig’s head weighing -6 lbs. allow 1½ lb. lean beef, 2 tablespoonfuls -of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls of pepper, -a little cayenne, 6 pounded cloves. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut off the cheeks and salt them, -unless the head be small, when all may -be used. After carefully cleaning the -head, put it on in sufficient cold water -to cover it, with the beef, and skim it -just before it boils. A head weighing -6 lbs. will require boiling from 2 to 3 -hours. When sufficiently boiled to come -off the bones easily, put it into a hot pan, -remove the bones, and chop the meat -with a sharp knife before the fire, together -with the beef. <i>It is necessary to do -this as quickly as possible to prevent the -fat settling in it.</i> Sprinkle in the seasoning, -which should have been previously -mixed. Stir it well and put it -quickly into a brawn-tin if you have one; -if not, a cake-tin or mould will answer -the purpose, if the meat is well pressed -with weights, which must not be removed -for several hours. When quite cold, dip -the tin into boiling water for a minute or -two, and the preparation will turn out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> -and be fit for use. <i>Time.</i>—From 2 to 3 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, for a pig’s head, -4½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The liquor in which the head -was boiled will make good pea soup, and -the fat, if skimmed off and boiled in -water, and afterwards poured into cold -water, answers the purpose of lard.</p> - - -<h3>BREAD-MAKING.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Panification</span>, or bread-making, consists -of the following processes, in the -case of Wheaten Flour. Fifty or sixty -per cent. of water is added to the flour, -with the addition of some leavening matter, -and preferably, of yeast from malt -and hops. All kinds of leavening matter -have, however, been, and are still used -in different parts of the world: in the -East Indies, “toddy,” which is a liquor -that flows from the wounded cocoa-nut -tree; and in the West Indies, “dunder,” -or the refuse of the distillation of rum. -The dough then undergoes the well-known -process called <i>kneading</i>. The -yeast produces fermentation, a process -which may be thus described:—The -dough reacting upon the leavening matter -introduced, the starch of the flour is -transformed into saccharine matter, the -saccharine matter being afterwards -changed into alcohol and carbonic acid. -The dough must be well “bound,” and -yet allow the escape of the little bubbles -of carbonic acid which accompany the -fermentation, and which, in their passage, -cause the numerous little holes -which are seen in light bread.</p> - -<p>The yeast must be good and fresh, if -the bread is to be digestible and nice. -Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous -fermentation, an acetous fermentation, -which flavours the bread and makes it -disagreeable. A poor thin yeast produces -an imperfect fermentation, the -result being a heavy, unwholesome loaf.</p> - -<p>When the dough is well kneaded, it is -left to stand for some time, and then, as -soon as it begins to swell, it is divided -into loaves; after which it is again left -to stand, when it once more swells up, -and manifests for the last time the symptoms -of fermentation. It is then put into -the oven, where the water contained in -the dough is partly evaporated, and the -loaves swell up again, while a yellow -crust begins to form upon the surface. -When the bread is sufficiently baked, the -bottom crust is hard and resonant if -struck with the finger, while the crumb -is elastic, and rises again after being -pressed down with the finger. The bread -is, in all probability, baked sufficiently -if, on opening the door of the oven, you -are met by a cloud of steam, which -quickly passes away.</p> - -<p>One word as to the unwholesomeness -of new bread and hot rolls. When bread -is taken out of the oven, it is full of -moisture; the starch is held together in -masses, and the bread, instead of being -crusted so as to expose each grain of -starch to the saliva, actually prevents -their digestion by being formed by the -teeth into leathery poreless masses, which -lie on the stomach like so many bullets. -Bread should always be at least a day -old before it is eaten; and, if properly -made, and kept in a <i>cool dry</i> place, ought -to be perfectly soft and palatable at the -end of three or four days. Hot rolls, -swimming in melted butter, and new -bread, ought to be carefully shunned by -everybody who has the slightest respect -for that much-injured individual—the -Stomach.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Aërated Bread.</span>—It is not unknown -to some of our readers that Dr. Dauglish, -of Malvern, has recently patented a process -for making bread “light,” without -the use of leaven. The ordinary process -of bread-making by fermentation is tedious, -and much labour of human hands -is requisite in the kneading, in order that -the dough may be thoroughly interpenetrated -with the leaven. The new process -impregnates the bread, by the application -of machinery, with carbonic acid gas, or -fixed air. Different opinions are expressed -about the bread; but it is curious -to note, that, as corn is now reaped by -machinery, and dough is baked by machinery, -the whole process of bread-making -is probably in course of undergoing -changes which will emancipate -both the housewife and the professional -baker from a large amount of labour.</p> - -<p>In the production of Aërated Bread, -wheaten flour, water, salt, and carbonic -acid gas (generated by proper machinery), -are the only materials employed. We -need not inform our readers that carbonic -acid gas is the source of the effervescence, -whether in common water -coming from a depth, or in lemonade, or -any aërated drink. Its action, in the -new bread, takes the place of fermentation -in the old.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the patent process, the dough is -mixed in a great iron ball, inside which -is a system of paddles, perpetually turning, -and doing the kneading part of the -business. Into this globe the flour is -dropped till it is full, and then the common -atmospheric air is pumped out, and -the pure gas turned on. The gas is followed -by the water, which has been -aërated for the purpose, and then begins -the churning or kneading part of the -business.</p> - -<p>Of course, it is not long before we have -the dough, and very “light” and nice it -looks. This is caught in tins, and passed -on to the floor of the oven, which is an -endless floor, moving slowly through the -fire. Done to a turn, the loaves emerge -at the other end of the apartment,—and -the Aërated Bread is made.</p> - -<p>It may be added, that it is a good plan -to change one’s baker from time to time, -and so secure a change in the quality of -the bread that is eaten.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mixed Breads.</span>—Rye bread is hard of -digestion, and requires longer and slower -baking than wheaten bread. It is better -when made with leaven of wheaten flour -rather than yeast, and turns out lighter. -It should not be eaten till two days old. -It will keep a long time.</p> - -<p>A good bread may be made by mixing -rye-flour, wheat-flour, and rice-paste, in -equal proportions; also by mixing rye, -wheat, and barley. In Norway, it is said -that they only bake their barley bread -once a year, such is its “keeping” -quality.</p> - -<p>Indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour -(half with half) makes a nice bread, -but it is not considered very digestible, -though it keeps well.</p> - -<p>Rice cannot be made into bread, nor -can potatoes; but one-third potato-flour -to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a -tolerably good loaf.</p> - -<p>A very good bread, better than the -ordinary sort, and of a delicious flavour, -is said to be produced by adopting the -following recipe:—Take ten parts of -wheat-flour, five parts of potato-flour, -one part of rice-paste; knead together, -add the yeast, and bake as usual. This -is, of course, cheaper than wheaten -bread.</p> - -<p>Flour, when freshly ground, is too glutinous -to make good bread, and should -therefore not be used immediately, but -should be kept dry for a few weeks, and -stirred occasionally until it becomes -dry, and crumbles easily between the -fingers.</p> - -<p>Flour should be perfectly dry before -being used for bread or cakes; if at all -damp, the preparation is sure to be -heavy. Before mixing it with the other -ingredients, it is a good plan to place it -for an hour or two before the fire, until -it feels warm and dry.</p> - -<p>Yeast from home-brewed beer is generally -preferred to any other: it is very -bitter, and on that account should be -well washed, and put away until the -thick mass settles. If it still continues -bitter, the process should be repeated; -and, before being used, all the water -floating at the top must be poured off. -German yeast is now very much used, -and should be moistened, and thoroughly -mixed with the milk or water with which -the bread is to be made.</p> - -<p>The following observations are extracted -from a valuable work on Bread-making, -and will be found very useful -to our readers:—</p> - -<p>The first thing required for making -wholesome bread is the utmost cleanliness; -the next is the soundness and -sweetness of all the ingredients used for -it; and, in addition to these, there -must be attention and care through the -whole process.</p> - -<p>An almost certain way of spoiling -dough is to leave it half-made, and to -allow it to become cold before it is -finished. The other most common -causes of failure are using yeast which is -no longer sweet, or which has been -frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over -it.</p> - -<p>Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient -time allowed for the dough to -rise, will cause the bread to be heavy.</p> - -<p>Heavy bread will also most likely be -the result of making the dough very -hard, and letting it become quite cold, -particularly in winter.</p> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 290px;"> -<img src="images/illus-047a.jpg" width="290" height="140" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">COTTAGE LOAF.</div> -</div> - -<p>If either the sponge or the dough be -permitted to overwork itself, that is to -say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected -when it has reached the proper -point for either, sour bread will probably -be the consequence in warm weather, -and bad bread in any. The goodness -will also be endangered by placing it so -near the fire as to make any part of it -hot, instead of maintaining the gentle -and equal degree of heat required for its -due fermentation.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Milk or Butter.</span>—Milk which is not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> -perfectly sweet will not only injure the -flavour of the bread, but, in sultry -weather, will often cause it to be quite -uneatable; yet either of them, if <i>fresh -and good</i>, will materially improve its -quality.</p> - -<p>To keep bread sweet and fresh, as -soon as it is cold it should be put into a -clean earthen pan, with a cover to it: -this pan should be placed at a little distance -from the ground, to allow a current -of air to pass underneath. Some -persons prefer keeping bread on clean -wooden shelves without being covered, -that the crust may not soften. Stale -bread may be freshened by warming it -through in a gentle oven. Stale pastry, -cakes, &c., may also be improved by this -method.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 290px;"> -<img src="images/illus-047a.jpg" width="290" height="140" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">COTTAGE LOAF.</div> -</div> - -<p>The utensils required for making -bread on a moderate scale, are a kneading-trough -or pan, sufficiently large -that the dough may be kneaded freely -without throwing the flour over the -edges, and also to allow for its rising; a -hair sieve for straining yeast, and one or -two strong spoons.</p> - -<p>Yeast must always be good of its kind, -and in a fitting state to produce ready -and proper fermentation. Yeast of -strong beer or ale produces more effect -than that of milder kinds; and the -fresher the yeast, the smaller the quantity -will be required to raise the dough.</p> - -<p>As a general rule, the oven for baking -bread should be rather quick, and the -heat so regulated as to penetrate the -dough without hardening the outside. -The oven door should not be opened after -the bread is put in until the dough is -set, or has become firm, as the cool air -admitted, will have an unfavourable -effect on it.</p> - -<p>Brick ovens are generally considered -the best adapted for baking bread: these -should be heated with wood faggots, and -then swept and mopped out, to cleanse -them for the reception of the bread. -Iron ovens are more difficult to manage, -being apt to burn the surface of the -bread before the middle is baked. To -remedy this, a few clean bricks should -be set at the bottom of the oven, close -together, to receive the tins of bread. -In many modern stoves the ovens are so -much improved that they bake admirably; -and they can always be brought -to the required temperature, when it is -higher than is needed, by leaving the -door open for a time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 272px;"> -<img src="images/illus-047b.jpg" width="272" height="99" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">TIN BREAD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BREAD, to make good Home-made -(Miss Acton’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quartern of flour, 1 -large tablespoonful of solid brewer’s -yeast, or nearly 1 oz. of fresh German -yeast, 1¼ to 1½ pint of warm milk-and-water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour into a large -earthenware bowl or deep pan; then, -with a strong metal or wooden spoon, -hollow out the middle; but do not clear -it entirely away from the bottom of the -pan, as, in that case, the sponge, or -leaven (as it was formerly termed) would -stick to it, which it ought not to do. -Next take either a large tablespoonful -of brewer’s yeast which has been rendered -solid by mixing it with plenty of -cold water, and letting it afterwards -stand to settle for a day and night; or -nearly an ounce of German yeast; put it -into a large basin, and proceed to mix it, -so that it shall be as smooth as cream, -with ¾ pint of warm milk-and-water, or -with water only; though even a very -little milk will much improve the bread. -Pour the yeast into the hole made in the -flour, and stir into it as much of that -which lies round it as will make a thick -batter, in which there must be no lumps. -Strew plenty of flour on the top, throw a -thick clean cloth over, and set it where -the air is warm; but do not place it upon -the kitchen fender, for it will become -too much heated there. Look at it from -time to time: when it has been laid for -nearly an hour, and when the yeast has -risen and broken through the flour, so -that bubbles appear in it, you will know -that it is ready to be made up into -dough. Then place the pan on a strong -chair, or dresser, or table, of convenient -height; pour into the sponge the remainder -of the warm milk-and-water;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> -stir into it as much of the flour as you -can with the spoon; then wipe it out -clean with your fingers, and lay it aside. -Next take plenty of the remaining flour, -throw it on the top of the leaven, and begin, -with the knuckles of both hands, to knead -it well. When the flour is nearly all -kneaded in, begin to draw the edges of -the dough towards the middle, in order -to mix the whole thoroughly; and when -it is free from flour and lumps and -crumbs, and does not stick to the hands -when touched, it will be done, and may -be covered with the cloth, and left to -rise a second time. In ¾ hour look at it, -and should it have swollen very much -and begin to crack, it will be light -enough to bake. Turn it then on to a -paste-board or very clean dresser, and -with a large sharp knife divide it in two; -make it up quickly into loaves, and -despatch it to the oven: make one -or two incisions across the tops of the -loaves, as they will rise more easily if -this be done. If baked in tins or pans, -rub them with a tiny piece of butter -laid on a piece of clean paper, to prevent -the dough from sticking to them. All -bread should be turned upside down, or -on its side, as soon as it is drawn from -the oven: if this be neglected, the under -part of the loaves will become wet and -blistered from the steam, which cannot -then escape from them. <i>To make the dough -without setting a sponge</i>, merely mix the -yeast with the greater part of the warm -milk-and-water, and wet up the whole -of the flour at once after a little salt has -been stirred in, proceeding exactly, in -every other respect, as in the directions -just given. As the dough will <i>soften</i> in -the rising, it should be made quite firm -at first, or it will be too lithe by the time -it is ready for the oven. <i>Time.</i>—To be -left to rise an hour the first time, ¾ hour -the second time; to be baked from 1 to -1¼ hour, or baked in one loaf from 1½ to -2 hours.</p> - - -<h3>BREAD, to make a Peck of good.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of potatoes, 6 pints -of cold water, ½ pint of good yeast, a -peck of flour, 2 oz. of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -and boil the potatoes; beat them to a -cream while warm; then add 1 pint of -cold water, strain through a colander, -and add to it ½ pint of good yeast, which -should have been put in water over-night -to take off its bitterness. Stir all well -together with a wooden spoon, and pour -the mixture into the centre of the flour; -mix it to the substance of cream, cover -it over closely, and let it remain near the -fire for an hour; then add the 5 pints of -water, milk-warm, with 2 oz. of salt; -pour this in, and mix the whole to a nice -light dough. Let it remain for about 2 -hours; then make it into 7 loaves, and -bake for about 1½ hour in a good oven. -When baked, the bread should weigh -nearly 20 lbs. <i>Time.</i>—About 1½ hour.</p> - - -<h3>BREAD-AND-BUTTER -FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Batter, 8 slices of bread -and butter, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of jam. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make a batter, the same as for -apple fritters; cut some slices of bread -and butter, not very thick; spread half -of them with any jam that may be preferred, -and cover with the other slices; -slightly press them together, and cut -them out in square, long, or round -pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry -in boiling lard for about 10 minutes; -drain them before the fire on a piece of -blotting-paper or cloth. Dish them, -sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—About 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING, -Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—9 thin slices of bread and -butter, 1½ pint of milk, 4 eggs, sugar to -taste, ¼ lb. of currants, flavouring of vanilla, -grated lemon-peel, or nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -9 slices of bread and butter, not very -thick, and put them into a pie-dish, with -currants between each layer, and on the -top. Sweeten and flavour the milk, either -by infusing a little lemon-peel in it, or by -adding a few drops of essence of vanilla; -well whisk the eggs, and stir these to the -milk. <i>Strain</i> this over the bread and -butter, and bake in a moderate oven for -1 hour, or rather longer. This pudding -may be very much enriched by adding -cream, candied peel, or more eggs than -stated above. It should not be turned -out, but sent to table in the pie-dish, and -is better for being made about two hours -before it is baked. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour, or -rather longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>BREAD CRUMBS, Fried.</h3> - -<p>Cut the bread into thin slices, place -them in a cool oven over-night, and when -thoroughly dry and crisp, roll them -down into fine crumbs. Put some lard, -or clarified dripping, into a frying-pan; -bring it to the boiling-point, throw in -the crumbs, and fry them very quickly. -Directly they are done, lift them out -with a slice, and drain them before the -fire from all greasy moisture. When -quite crisp, they are ready for use. The -fat they are fried in should be clear, and -the crumbs should not have the slightest -appearance or taste of having been, in -the least degree, burnt.</p> - - -<h3>BREAD, Fried, for Borders.</h3> - -<p>Proceed by frying some slices of bread, -cut in any fanciful shape, in boiling lard. -When quite crisp, dip one side of the -sippet into the beaten white of an egg -mixed with a little flour, and place it on -the edge of the dish. Continue in this -manner till the border is completed, arranging -the sippets a pale and a dark one -alternately.</p> - - -<h3>BREAD, Fried Sippets of, for Garnishing -many Dishes.</h3> - -<p>Cut the bread into thin slices, and -stamp them out in whatever shape you -like,—rings, crosses, diamonds, &c. &c. -Fry them in the same manner as the -bread-crumbs, in clear boiling lard or -clarified dripping, and drain them until -thoroughly crisp before the fire. When -variety is desired, fry some of a pale -colour, and others of a darker hue.</p> - - -<h3>BREAKFASTS.</h3> - -<p>It will not be necessary to give here a -long bill of fare of cold joints, &c., which -may be placed on the sideboard, and do -duty at the breakfast-table. Suffice it -to say, that any cold meat the larder -may furnish should be nicely garnished -and be placed on the buffet. Collared -and potted meats or fish, cold game or -poultry, veal-and-ham pies, game-and-rump-steak -pies, are all suitable dishes -for the breakfast-table; as also cold ham, -tongue, &c. &c.</p> - -<p>The following list of hot dishes may -perhaps assist our readers in knowing -what to provide for the comfortable meal -called breakfast. Broiled fish, such as -mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, -&c.; mutton chops and rump-steaks, -broiled sheep’s kidneys, kidneys -à la maître d’hôtel, sausages, plain rashers -of bacon, bacon and poached eggs, ham -and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled -eggs, œufs-au-plat, poached eggs on -toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, -&c. &c.</p> - -<p>In the summer, and when they are -obtainable, always have a vase of freshly-gathered -flowers on the breakfast-table, -and, when convenient, a nicely-arranged -dish of fruit: when strawberries are in -season, these are particularly refreshing; -as also grapes, or even currants.</p> - - -<h3>BRILL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water; a little vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean -the brill, cut off the fins, and rub -it over with a little lemon-juice, to preserve -its whiteness. Set the fish in sufficient -cold water to cover it; throw in salt, in -the above proportions, and a little vinegar, -and bring it gradually to boil: simmer -very gently, till the fish is done, which -will be in about 10 minutes for a small -brill, reckoning from the time the water -begins to simmer. It is difficult to give -the <i>exact</i> number of minutes required for -cooking a brill, as the fish varies somewhat -in thickness, but the cook can always -bear in mind that fish of every description -should be <i>very thoroughly dressed</i>, -and never come to table in the <i>least degree -underdone</i>. The time for boiling of course -depends entirely on the size of the fish. -Serve it on a hot napkin, and garnish with -cut lemon, parsley, horseradish, and a -little lobster coral sprinkled over the -fish. Send lobster or shrimp sauce and -plain melted butter to table with it. -<i>Time.</i>—After the water boils, a small -brill, 10 minutes; a medium sized brill, -15 to 20 minutes; a large brill, ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 4<i>s.</i> to 8<i>s.</i>; but when -the market is plentifully supplied, may -be had from 2<i>s.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to April.</p> - -<p><i>To choose Brill.</i>—The flesh of this fish, -like that of turbot, should be of a yellowish -tint, and should be chosen on account -of its thickness. If the flesh has a -bluish tint, it is not good.</p> - -<p>A Brill and John Dory are carved in -the same manner as a Turbot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The thick parts of the middle -of the back are the best slices in a turbot; -and the rich gelatinous skin covering -the fish, as well as a little of the -thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, -and should be placed on each plate.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"> -<img src="images/illus-050.jpg" width="480" height="305" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">HOW TO CARVE A BRILL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BROWNING, for Stock.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of powdered sugar, -and ½ a pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Place the -sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until -it begins to melt, keeping it stirred with -a wooden spoon until it becomes black, -when add the water, and let it dissolve. -Cork closely, and use a few drops when -required.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In France, burnt onions are -made use of for the purpose of browning. -As a general rule, the process of browning -is to be discouraged, as apt to impart -a slightly unpleasant flavour to the stock, -and consequently all soups made from it.</p> - - -<h3>BROWNING for Gravies and -Sauces.</h3> - -<p>The browning for stock answers equally -well for sauces and gravies, when it is -absolutely necessary to colour them in -this manner; but where they can be made -to look brown by using ketchup, wine, -browned flour, tomatoes, or any coloured -sauce, it is far preferable. As, however, -in cooking so much depends on appearance, -perhaps it would be as well for the -inexperienced cook to use the artificial -means. When no browning is at hand, -and you wish to heighten the colour of -your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an -iron spoon close to a sharp fire; when it -is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce -or gravy quite hot. Care, however, -must be taken not to put in too much, -as it would impart a very disagreeable -flavour to the preparation.</p> - - -<h3>BRUSSELS-SPROUTS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a -<i>very small</i> piece of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean -the sprouts from insects, nicely wash -them, and pick off any dead or discoloured -leaves from the outsides; put them into -a saucepan of <i>boiling</i> water, with salt -and soda in the above proportion; keep -the pan uncovered, and let them boil -quickly over a brisk fire until tender; -drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of -melted butter, or with a maître d’hôtel -sauce poured over them. Another mode -of serving them is, when they are dished, -to stir in about 1½ oz. of butter and a -seasoning of pepper and salt. They -must, however, be sent to table very -quickly, as, being so very small, this -vegetable soon cools. Where the cook -is very expeditious, this vegetable when -cooked may be arranged on the dish in -the form of a pineapple, and so served -has a very pretty appearance. <i>Time.</i>—from -9 to 12 minutes after the water -boils. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per peck. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow between 40 and 50 for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from November -to March.</p> - - -<h3>BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few thin slices of cold boiled beef; -butter, cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Fry -the slices of beef gently in a little butter, -taking care not to dry them up. -Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with -fried greens. The greens may be prepared -from cabbage sprouts or green -savoys. They should be boiled till -tender, well drained, minced, and placed, -till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with -butter, a sliced onion, and seasoning of -pepper and salt. When the onion is -done, it is ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cold beef, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>BULLOCK’S HEART, to Dress a.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 heart, stuffing of veal -forcemeat. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the heart into -warm water to soak for 2 hours; then -wipe it well with a cloth, and, after -cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside with -a highly-seasoned forcemeat. Fasten it -in, by means of a needle and coarse -thread; tie the heart up in paper, and -set it before a good fire, being very particular -to keep it well basted, or it will -eat dry, there being very little of its own -fat. Two or three minutes before dishing -remove the paper, baste well, and serve -with good gravy and red-currant jelly or -melted butter. If the heart is very large, -it will require 2 hours, and, covered with -a caul, may be baked as well as roasted. -<i>Time.</i>—Large heart, 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This is an excellent family dish, -is very savoury, and, though not seen at -many good tables, may be recommended -for its cheapness and economy.</p> - - -<h3>BUNS, Light.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ teaspoonful of tartaric -acid, ½ teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, -1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of loaf -sugar, ¼ lb. of currants or raisins,—when -liked, a few caraway seeds, ½ pint of cold -new milk, 1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the tartaric -acid, soda, and flour all together -through a hair sieve; work the butter -into the flour; add the sugar, currants, -and caraway seeds, when the flavour of -the latter is liked. Mix all these ingredients -well together; make a hole in the -middle of the flour, and pour in the milk, -mixed with the egg, which should be -well beaten; mix quickly, and set the -dough, with a fork, on baking-tins, and -bake the buns for about 20 minutes. -This mixture makes a very good cake, -and if put into a tin, should be baked 1½ -hour. The same quantity of flour, soda, -and tartaric acid, with ½ pint of milk and -a little salt, will make either bread or -tea-cakes, if wanted quickly. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes for the buns; if made into a cake, -1½ hour. <i>Sufficient</i> to make about 12 -buns.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 263px;"> -<img src="images/illus-051.jpg" width="263" height="87" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BUNS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>BUNS, Plain.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of good -butter, ¼ lb. of sugar, 1 egg, nearly ¼ pint -of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, -a few drops of essence of lemon. -<i>Mode.</i>—Warm the butter, without oiling -it; beat it with a wooden spoon; stir the -flour in gradually with the sugar, and -mix these ingredients well together. Make -the milk lukewarm, beat up with it the -yolk of the egg and the essence of lemon, -and stir these to the flour, &c. Add the -baking-powder, beat the dough well for -about 10 minutes, divide it into 24 pieces, -put them into buttered tins or cups, and -bake in a brisk oven from 20 to 30 minutes. -<i>Time.</i>—20 to 30 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 12 buns. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BUNS, Victoria.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of pounded loaf -sugar, 1 egg, 1½ oz. of ground rice, 2 oz. -of butter, 1½ oz. of currants, a few thin -slices of candied-peel, flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Whisk -the egg, stir in the sugar, and -beat these ingredients both together; -beat the butter to a cream, stir in the -ground rice, currants, and candied-peel, -and as much flour as will make it of such -a consistency that it may be rolled into -7 or 8 balls. Place these on a buttered -tin, and bake them for ½ to ¾ hour. They -should be put into the oven immediately -or they will become heavy, and the oven -should be tolerably brisk. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -make 7 or 8 buns. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Browned.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, 1 tablespoonful -of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls -of vinegar, salt and pepper to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter into a -frying pan over a nice clear fire, and when -it smokes, throw in the parsley, and add -the vinegar and seasoning. Let the -whole simmer for a minute or two, when -it is ready to serve. This is a very good -sauce for skate. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Clarified.</h3> - -<p>Put the butter in a basin before the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> -fire, and when it melts, stir it round once -or twice, and let it settle. Do not strain -it unless absolutely necessary, as it -causes so much waste. Pour it gently -off into a clean dry jar, carefully leaving -all sediment behind. Let it cool, and -carefully exclude the air by means of a -bladder, or piece of wash-leather, tied -over. If the butter is salt, it may be -washed before melting, when it is to be -used for sweet dishes.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Curled.</h3> - -<p>Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners -to an iron hook in the wall; make a knot -with the other two ends, so that a stick -might pass through. Put the butter -into the cloth; twist it tightly over a -dish, into which the butter will fall -through the knot, so forming small and -pretty little strings. The butter may -then be garnished with parsley, if to -serve with a cheese course; or it may be -sent to table plain for breakfast, in an -ornamental dish. Squirted butter for -garnishing hams, salads, eggs, &c., is -made by forming a piece of stiff paper -in the shape of a cornet, and squeezing -the butter in fine strings from the hole -at the bottom. Scooped butter is made -by dipping a teaspoon or scooper in warm -water, and then scooping the butter -quickly and thin. In warm weather, it -would not be necessary to heat the spoon.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Fairy.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 2 hard-boiled -eggs, 1 tablespoonful of orange-flower -water, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded -sugar, ¼ lb. of good fresh butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the yolks of the eggs smoothly in -a mortar, with the orange-flower water -and the sugar, until the whole is reduced -to a fine paste; add the butter, and force -all through an old but clean cloth by -wringing the cloth and squeezing the -butter very hard. The butter will then -drop on the plate in large and small -pieces, according to the holes in the -cloth. Plain butter may be done in the -same manner, and is very quickly prepared, -besides having a very good effect.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, to keep Fresh.</h3> - -<p>Butter may be kept fresh for ten or -twelve days by a very simple process. -Knead it well in cold water till the buttermilk -is extracted; then put it in a glazed -jar, which invert in another, putting -into the latter a sufficient quantity of -water to exclude the air. Renew the -water every day.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Maître d’Hôtel, for -putting into Broiled Fish just -before it is sent to Table.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls -of minced parsley, salt and -pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Work the above ingredients -well together, and let them be -thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. -If this is used as a sauce, it may be -poured either under or over the meat or -fish it is intended to be served with. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 5<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—4 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, -2 do. of white stock, with 2 oz. of the -above maître d’hôtel butter stirred into -it, and just allowed to simmer for 1 -minute, will be found an excellent hot -maître d’hôtel sauce.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Melted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, a dessertspoonful -of flour, 1 wineglassful of water, -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the butter up -into small pieces, put it into a saucepan, -dredge over the flour, and add the water -and a seasoning of salt; stir it <i>one way</i> -constantly till the whole of the ingredients -are melted and thoroughly blended. -Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. -If the butter is to be melted with cream, -use the same quantity as of water, but -omit the flour; keep stirring it, but do -not allow it to boil. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to -simmer. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -4<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Melted (more Economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, salt to taste, ½ pint of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the flour and water -to a smooth batter, which put into a -saucepan. Add the butter and a seasoning -of salt, keep stirring <i>one way</i> till all -the ingredients are melted and perfectly -smooth; let the whole boil for a minute -or two, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 minutes -to simmer. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -2<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Rancid, What to do with.</h3> - -<p>When butter has become very rancid,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> -it should be melted several times by a -moderate heat, with or without the addition -of water, and as soon as it has been -well kneaded, after the cooling, in order -to extract any water it may have retained, -it should be put into brown freestone -pots, sheltered from the contact of the -air. The French often add to it, after it -has been melted, a piece of toasted bread, -which helps to destroy the tendency of -the butter to rancidity.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Melted (the French -Sauce Blanche).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 -tablespoonful of flour, salt to taste, ½ gill -of water, ½ spoonful of white vinegar, a very -little grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the -flour and water to a smooth batter, carefully -rubbing down with the back of a -spoon any lumps that may appear. Put -it in a saucepan with all the other ingredients, -and let it thicken on the fire, -but do not allow it to boil, lest it should -taste of the flour. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to -simmer. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> for this quantity.</p> - - -<h3>BUTTER, Melted, made with Milk.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 teaspoonful of flour, -2 oz. of butter, ½ pint of milk, a few -grains of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the butter -and flour smoothly together on a plate, -put it into a lined saucepan, and pour in -the milk. Keep stirring it <i>one way</i> over -a sharp fire; let it boil quickly for a -minute or two, and it is ready to serve. -This is a very good foundation for onion, -lobster, or oyster sauce: using milk -instead of water makes it look much -whiter and more delicate. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i> for this -quantity, 3<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CABBAGE, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—-To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; -a <i>very small</i> piece of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick -off all the dead outside leaves, cut -off as much of the stalk as possible, and -cut the cabbages across twice, at the -stalk end; if they should be very large, -quarter them. Wash them well in cold -water, place them in a colander, and -drain; then put them into <i>plenty</i> of <i>fast-boiling</i> -water, to which have been added -salt and soda in the above proportions. -Stir them down once or twice in the -water, keep the pan uncovered, and let -them boil quickly until tender. The -instant they are done, take them up into -a colander, place a plate over them, let -them thoroughly drain, dish, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—Large cabbages, or savoys, ½ to ¾ -hour, young summer cabbage, 10 to 12 -minutes, after the water boils. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> each in full season. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 -large ones for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Cabbages -and sprouts of various -kinds at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CABBAGE, Red, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Red cabbages, salt and -water; to each quart of vinegar, ½ oz. of -ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black -pepper, and, when liked, a little cayenne. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take off the outside decayed -leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut it in -quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it -across in very thin slices. Lay these on -a dish, and strew them plentifully with -salt, covering them with another dish. -Let them remain for 24 hours, turn into -a colander to drain, and, if necessary, -wipe lightly with a clean soft cloth. Put -them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with -spices in the above proportion, and, -when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It -will be fit for use in a week or two, and, -if kept for a very long time, the cabbage -is liable to get soft and to discolour. To -be really nice and crisp, and of a good -red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately -after it is made. A little -bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar -adds much to the appearance of this -pickle. Tie down with bladder, and -keep in a dry place. <i>Seasonable</i> in July -and August, but the pickle will be much -more crisp if the frost has just touched -the leaves.</p> - - -<h3>CABBAGE, Red, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 red cabbage, a small -slice of ham, ½ oz. of fresh butter, 1 pint -of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, -salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful -of pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cabbage -into very thin slices, put it into a -stewpan, with the ham cut in dice, the -butter, ½ pint of stock, and the vinegar; -cover the pan closely, and let it stew for -1 hour. When it is very tender, add the -remainder of the stock, a seasoning of -salt and pepper, and the pounded sugar; -mix all well together, stir over the fire -until nearly all the liquor is dried away,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> -and serve. Fried sausages are usually -sent to table with this dish: they should -be laid round and on the cabbage, as a -garnish. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to January.</p> - - -<h3>CABBAGE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, -2 onions, 4 or 5 slices of lean bacon, -salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of -medium stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald the cabbage, -cut it up and drain it. Line the -stewpan with the bacon, put in the -cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten -with skimmings from the stock, and simmer -very gently, till the cabbage is -tender; add the stock, stew softly for -half an hour, and carefully skim off every -particle of fat. Season and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>CABINET or CHANCELLOR’S -PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ oz. of candied peel, -4 oz. of currants, 4 dozen sultanas, a few -slices of Savoy cake, sponge-cake, a -French roll, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, -grated lemon-rind, ¼ nutmeg, 3 tablespoonfuls -of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Melt some -butter to a paste, and with it, well -grease the mould or basin in which the -pudding is to be boiled, taking care that -it is buttered in every part. Cut the -peel into thin slices, and place these in a -fanciful device at the bottom of the -mould, and fill in the spaces between -with currants and -sultanas; then add -a few slices of -sponge-cake or -French roll; drop -a few drops of -melted butter on -these,and between -each layer sprinkle a few currants. Proceed -in this manner until the mould is -nearly full; then flavour the milk with -nutmeg and grated lemon-rind; add the -sugar, and stir to this the eggs, which -should be well beaten. Beat this mixture -for a few minutes; then strain it -into the mould, which should be quite -full; tie a piece of buttered paper over -it, and let it stand for two hours; then -tie it down with a cloth, put it into -boiling water, and let it boil slowly for -1 hour. In taking it up, let it stand for -a minute or two before the cloth is removed; -then quickly turn it out of the -mould or basin, and serve with sweet -sauce separately. The flavouring of this -pudding may be varied by substituting -for the lemon-rind essence of vanilla or -bitter almonds; and it may be made -much richer by using cream; but this -is not at all necessary. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour, -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 178px;"> -<img src="images/illus-054.jpg" width="178" height="82" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CABINET PUDDING.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CABINET or BOILED BREAD-AND-BUTTER -PUDDING, -Plain.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of raisins, a few -thin slices of bread and butter, 3 eggs, -1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, ¼ nutmeg. -<i>Mode.</i>—Butter a pudding-basin and line -the inside with a layer of raisins that -have been previously stoned; then nearly -fill the basin with slices of bread and -butter with the crust cut off, and, in -another basin, beat the eggs; add to -them the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg; -mix all well together, and pour the -whole on to the bread and butter; let it -stand ½ hour, then tie a floured cloth -over it; boil for 1 hour, and serve with -sweet sauce. Care must be taken that -the basin is quite full before the cloth is -tied over. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAFÉ AU LAIT.</h3> - -<p>This is merely very strong coffee added -to a large proportion of good hot milk; -about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee -being quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful -of milk. Of the essence which -answers admirably for <i>café au lait</i>, so -much would not be required. This preparation -is infinitely superior to the -weak watery coffee so often served at -English tables. A little cream mixed -with the milk, if the latter cannot be -depended on for richness, improves the -taste of the coffee, as also the richness of -the beverage. <i>Sufficient.</i>—6 tablespoonfuls -of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of -the essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk.</p> - - -<h3>CAFÉ NOIR.</h3> - -<p>This is usually handed round after -dinner, and should be drunk well<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> -sweetened, with the addition of a little -brandy or liqueurs, which may be added -or not at pleasure. The coffee should be -made very strong, and served in very -small cups, but never mixed with milk -or cream. <i>Café noir</i> may be made of the -essence of coffee by pouring a tablespoonful -into each cup, and filling it up -with boiling water. This is a very -simple and expeditious manner of preparing -coffee for a large party, but the -essence for it must be made very good, -and kept well corked until required for use.</p> - - -<h3>CAKES, Making and Baking of.</h3> - -<p><i>Eggs</i> should always be broken into a -cup, the whites and yolks separated, and -they should always be strained. Breaking -the eggs thus, the bad ones may -be easily rejected without spoiling the -others, and so cause no waste. As eggs -are used instead of yeast, they should be -very thoroughly whisked; they are generally -sufficiently beaten when thick -enough to carry the drop that falls from -the whisk.</p> - -<p><i>Loaf Sugar</i> should be well pounded, -and then sifted through a fine sieve.</p> - -<p><i>Currants</i> should be nicely washed, -picked, dried in a cloth, and then carefully -examined, that no pieces of grit -or stone may be left amongst them. They -should then be laid on a dish before the -fire, to become thoroughly dry; as, if -added damp to the other ingredients, -cakes will be liable to be heavy.</p> - -<p><i>Good Butter</i> should always be used in -the manufacture of cakes; and, if beaten -to a cream, it saves much time and labour -to warm, but not melt, it before -beating.</p> - -<p>Less butter and eggs are required for -cakes when yeast is mixed with the other -ingredients.</p> - -<p>The heat of the oven is of great importance, -especially for large cakes. If the -heat be not tolerably fierce, the batter -will not rise. If the oven is too quick, -and there is any danger of the cake -burning or catching, put a sheet of clean -paper over the top: newspaper, or paper -that has been printed on, should never -be used for this purpose.</p> - -<p>To know when a cake is sufficiently -baked, plunge a clean knife into the -middle of it; draw it quickly out, and if -it looks in the least sticky put the cake -back, and close the oven door until the -cake is done.</p> - -<p>Cakes should be kept in closed tin -canisters or jars, and in a dry place. -Those made with yeast do not keep so -long as those made without it.</p> - - -<h3>CAKES, nice Breakfast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ teaspoonful -of tartaric acid, ½ teaspoonful of salt, -½ teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1½ -breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of sifted -loaf sugar, 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—These cakes -are made in the same manner as the soda -bread, with the addition of eggs and -sugar. Mix the flour, tartaric acid, and -salt well together, taking care that the -two latter ingredients are reduced to the -finest powder, and stir in the sifted sugar, -which should also be very fine. Dissolve -the soda in the milk, add the eggs, which -should be well whisked, and with this -liquid work the flour, &c. into a light -dough. Divide it into small cakes, put -them into the oven immediately, and -bake for about 20 minutes. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Christmas.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 teacupfuls of flour, 1 -teacupful of melted butter, 1 teacupful -of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, 1 teacupful -of moist sugar, 2 eggs, ½ oz. of powdered -ginger, ½ lb. of raisins, 1 teaspoonful -of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful -of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the butter -sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not -allow it to oil; put the flour into a basin, -add to it the sugar, ginger, and raisins, -which should be stoned and cut into -small pieces. When these dry ingredients -are thoroughly mixed, stir in the -butter, cream, treacle, and well-whisked -eggs, and beat the mixture for a few -minutes. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, -add it to the dough, and be particular -that these latter ingredients are -well incorporated with the others; put -the cake into a buttered mould or tin, -place it in a moderate oven immediately, -and bake it from 1¾ to 2¼ hours. <i>Time.</i>—1¾ -to 2¼ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Common (suitable for sending -to Children at School).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of flour, 4 oz. of -butter or clarified dripping, ½ oz. of caraway -seeds, ¼ oz. of allspice, ½ lb. of -pounded sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1 pint -of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the butter lightly into the -flour; add all the dry ingredients, and -mix these well together. Make the milk -warm, but not hot; stir in the yeast, and -with this liquid mix the whole into a -light dough; knead it well, and line the -cake-tins with strips of buttered paper: -this paper should be about 6 inches higher -than the top of the tin. Put in the -dough; stand it in a warm place to rise -for more than an hour, then bake the -cakes in a well-heated oven. If this -quantity be divided into two, they will -take from 1½ to 2 hours’ baking, <i>Time.</i>—1½ -to 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Economical.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 169px;"> -<img src="images/illus-056.jpg" width="169" height="108" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CAKE-MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -sugar, ¼ lb. of butter or lard, ½ lb. of -currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of -soda, the whites of 4 eggs, ½ pint of milk. -<i>Mode.</i>—In making many sweet dishes, -the whites of eggs are not required, and -if well beaten and added to the above -ingredients, make an excellent cake with -or without currants. -Beat the butter to a -cream, well whisk -the whites of the -eggs, and stir all the -ingredients together -but the soda, which -must not be added -until all is well mixed, and the cake is -ready to be put into the oven. When -the mixture has been well beaten, stir in -the soda, put the cake into a buttered -mould, and bake it in a moderate oven -for 1½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Good Holiday.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½<i>d.</i> worth of Borwick’s -German baking-powder, 2 lbs. of flour, -6 oz. of butter, ¼ lb. of lard, 1 lb. of currants, -½ lb. of stoned and cut raisins, ¼ lb. -of mixed candied peel, ½ lb. of moist -sugar, 3 eggs, ¾ pint of cold milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the baking-powder with the flour; -then rub in the butter and lard; have -ready the currants, washed, picked, and -dried, the raisins stoned and cut into -small pieces (not chopped), and the peel -cut into neat slices. Add these with the -sugar to the flour, &c., and mix all the -dry ingredients well together. Whisk -the eggs, stir to them the milk, and with -this liquid moisten the cake; beat it up -well, that all may be very thoroughly -mixed; line a cake-tin with buttered -paper, put in the cake, and bake it from -2¼ to 2¾ hours in a good oven. To ascertain -when it is done, plunge a clean -knife into the middle of it, and if, on -withdrawing it, the knife looks clean, -and not sticky, the cake is done. To -prevent it burning at the top, a piece of -clean paper may be put over whilst the -cake is soaking, or being thoroughly -cooked in the middle. A steamer, such -as is used for steaming potatoes, makes -a very good cake-tin, if it be lined at the -bottom and sides with buttered paper. -<i>Time.</i>—2¼ to 2¾ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Luncheon.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of butter, 1 lb. of -flour, ½ oz. of caraway seeds, ¼ lb. of -currants, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of -candied peel, 3 eggs, ½ pint of milk, 1 -small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the butter into the flour -until it is quite fine; add the caraway -seeds, currants (which should be nicely -washed, picked, and dried), sugar, and -candied peel cut into thin slices; mix -these well together, and moisten with -the eggs, which should be well whisked. -Boil the milk, and add to it, whilst boiling, -the carbonate of soda, which must -be well stirred into it, and, with the -milk, mix the other ingredients. Butter -a tin, pour the cake into it, and bake it -in a moderate oven from 1 to 1½ hour. -<i>Time.</i>—1 to 1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, a nice useful.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, 6 oz. of -currants, ¼ lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of dried -flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, -3 eggs, 1 teacupful of milk, 2 oz. of sweet -almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the butter to a cream; wash, pick, -and dry the currants; whisk the eggs; -blanch and chop the almonds, and cut -the peel into neat slices. When all these -are ready, mix the dry ingredients together; -then add the butter, milk, and -eggs, and beat the mixture well for a few -minutes. Put the cake into a buttered -mould or tin, and bake it for rather -more than 1½ hour. The currants and -candied peel may be omitted, and a little -lemon or almond flavouring substituted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> -for them; made in this manner, the -cake will be found very good. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CAKE, a Pavini.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1-2 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -ground rice, ½ lb. of raisins stoned and -cut into small pieces, ¼ lb. of currants, -¼ lb. of butter, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, -¼ lb. of sifted loaf sugar, ½ nutmeg -grated, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of -carbonate of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Stone and -cut the raisins into small pieces; wash, -pick, and dry the currants; melt the -butter to a cream, but without oiling it; -blanch and chop the almonds, and grate -the nutmeg. When all these ingredients -are thus prepared, mix them well together; -make the milk warm, stir in the -soda, and with this liquid make the -whole into a paste. Butter a mould, -rather more than half fill it with the -dough, and bake the cake in a moderate -oven from 1½ to 2 hours, or less time -should it be made into 2 cakes. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -to 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, a nice Plain.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoonful -of Borwick’s baking-powder, ¼ lb. of -good dripping, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, -3 eggs, 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. -of caraway seeds, ½ lb. of currants. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the flour and the baking-powder -into a basin; stir these together; then -rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway -seeds, and currants; whisk the eggs -with the milk, and beat all together very -thoroughly until the ingredients are -well mixed. Butter a tin, put in the -cake, and bake it from 1½ to 2 hours. -Let the dripping be quite clean before -using: to insure this, it is a good plan -to clarify it. Beef dripping is better -than any other for cakes, &c., as mutton -dripping frequently has a very unpleasant -flavour, which would be imparted to the -preparation. <i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours, -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, a nice Plain, for Children.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quartern of dough, ¼ lb. -of moist sugar, ¼ lb. of butter or good -beef dripping, ¼ pint of warm milk, ½ -grated nutmeg or ½ oz. of caraway seeds. -<i>Mode.</i>—It you are not in the habit of -making bread at home, procure the -dough from the baker’s, and as soon as -it comes in put it into a basin near the -fire; cover the basin with a thick cloth, -and let the dough remain a little while -to rise. In the mean time, beat the -butter to a cream, and make the milk -warm; and when the dough has risen, -mix with it thoroughly all the above -ingredients, and knead the cake well for -a few minutes. Butter some cake-tins, -half fill them, and stand them in a warm -place, to allow the dough to rise again. -When the tins are three parts full, put -the cakes into a good oven, and bake -them from 1¾ to 2 hours. A few currants -might be substituted for the caraway -seeds when the flavour of the latter is -disliked. <i>Time.</i>—1¾ to 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Queen.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -butter, ½ lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 3 -eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, ½ lb. of -currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of -soda, essence of lemon, or almonds to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Work the butter to a -cream; dredge in the flour, add the -sugar and currants, and mix the ingredients -well together. Whisk the eggs, -mix them with the cream and flavouring, -and stir these to the flour; add the carbonate -of soda, beat the paste well for -10 minutes, put it into small buttered -pans, and bake the cake from ¼ to ½ hour. -Grated lemon-rind may be substituted -for the lemon and almond flavouring, -which will make the cakes equally nice. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ to ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKE, Saucer, for Tea.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -<i>tous-les-mois</i>, ¼ lb. of pounded white -sugar, ¼ lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of candied -orange or lemon-peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the flour and <i>tous-les-mois</i> together; add -the sugar, the candied peel cut into thin -slices, the butter beaten to a cream, and -the eggs well whisked. Beat the mixture -for 10 minutes, put it into a buttered -cake-tin or mould, or, if this is not obtainable, -a soup-plate answers the purpose, -lined with a piece of buttered -paper. Bake the cake in a moderate oven -from 1 to 1¼ hour, and when cold, put -it away in a covered canister. It will -remain good some weeks, even if it be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> -cut into slices. <i>Time.</i>—1 to 1¼ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAKES, Scrap.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of leaf, or the inside -fat of a pig; 1½ lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -moist sugar, ½ lb. of currants, 1 oz. of -candied lemon-peel, ground allspice to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the leaf, or flead, as -it is sometimes called, into small pieces; -put it into a large dish, which place in a -quick oven; be careful that it does not -burn, and in a short time it will be reduced -to oil, with the small pieces of -leaf floating on the surface; and it is of -these that the cakes should be made. -Gather all the scraps together, put them -into a basin with the flour, and rub them -well together. Add the currants, sugar, -candied peel, cut into thin slices, and -the ground allspice. When all these -ingredients are well mixed, moisten with -sufficient cold water to make the whole -into a nice paste; roll it out thin, cut it -into shapes, and bake the cakes in a -quick oven from 15 to 20 minutes. These -are very economical and wholesome cakes -for children, and the lard, melted at -home, produced from the flead, is generally -better than that you purchase. To -prevent the lard from burning, and to -insure its being a good colour, it is better -to melt it in a jar placed in a saucepan -of boiling water; by doing it in this -manner, there will be no chance of its -discolouring. <i>Time.</i>—15 to 20 minutes. -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to March.</p> - - -<h3>CALF.</h3> - -<p>The manner of cutting up a calf for -the English market is to divide the -carcase into four quarters, with eleven -ribs to each fore quarter; which are -again subdivided into joints, as exemplified -on the cut.</p> - -<p><i>Hind quarter:</i>—</p> - - -<ul class="cuts"> -<li>1. The loin.</li> -<li>2. The chump, consisting of the rump and hock-bone.</li> -<li>3. The fillet.</li> -<li>4. The hock, or hind knuckle.</li> -</ul> - - -<p><i>Fore quarter:</i>—</p> - - -<ul class="cuts"><li>5. The shoulder.</li> -<li>6. The neck.</li> -<li>7. The breast.</li> -<li>8. The fore knuckle.</li></ul> - - - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 256px;"> -<img src="images/illus-058.jpg" width="256" height="596" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING -THE SEVERAL JOINTS.</div> -</div> - -<p>The several parts of a moderately-sized -well-fed calf, about eight weeks old, are -nearly of the following weights:—loin -and chump 18 lbs., fillet 12½ lbs., hind -knuckle 5½ lbs., shoulder 11 lbs., neck -11 lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle -5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs. weight. -The London mode of cutting the carcase -is considered better than that pursued -in Edinburgh, as giving three -roasting joints and one boiling in each -quarter; besides the pieces being more -equally divided, as regards flesh, and -from the handsomer appearance they -make on the table.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S FEET, Baked or Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 calf’s foot, 1 pint of milk, -1 pint of water, 1 blade of mace, the rind of -½ lemon, pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Well -clean the foot, and either stew -or bake it in the milk-and-water with -the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. -To enhance the flavour, an onion and a -small quantity of celery may be added, if<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> -approved; ½ a teacupful of cream, stirred -in just before serving, is also a great -improvement to this dish. <i>Time.</i>—3 to -4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, in full season, -9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 person. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S FEET, Boiled, and -Parsley and Butter.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 calf’s feet, 2 slices of -bacon, 2 oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls -of lemon-juice, salt and whole -pepper to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of -savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, -water, parsley, and butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -2 white calf’s feet; bone them -as far as the first joint, and put them -into warm water to soak for 2 hours. -Then put the bacon, butter, lemon-juice, -onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into -a stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in -just sufficient water to cover the whole. -Stew gently for about three hours; take -out the feet, dish them, and cover with -parsley and butter. The liquor they -were boiled in should be strained and put -by in a clean basin for use: it will be -found very good as an addition to gravies, -&c. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 3 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 9<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S-FOOT BROTH.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 calf’s foot, 3 pints of -water, 1 small lump of sugar, nutmeg to -taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter -the size of a nut. <i>Mode.</i>—Stew the foot -in the water with the lemon-peel <i>very -gently</i>, until the liquid is half wasted, -removing any scum, should it rise to the -surface. Set it by in a basin until quite -cold, then take off every particle of fat. -Warm up about ½ pint of the broth, -adding the butter, sugar, and a very -small quantity of grated nutmeg; take -it off the fire for a minute or two, then -add the beaten yolk of the egg; keep -stirring over the fire until the mixture -thickens, but do not allow it to boil -again after the egg is added, or it will -curdle, and the broth will be spoiled. -<i>Time.</i>—To be boiled until the liquid is -reduced one half. <i>Average cost</i>, in full -season, 9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> to make 1½ -pint of broth. <i>Seasonable</i> from March -to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S FEET, Fricasseed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A set of calf’s feet; for the -batter, allow for each egg 1 tablespoonful -of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread-crumbs, -hot lard, or clarified dripping, pepper and -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—If the feet are purchased -uncleaned, dip them into warm -water repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, -first one foot and then the other, until the -skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of -water being kept by the fire until they -are finished. After washing and soaking -in cold water, boil them in just sufficient -water to cover them, until the bones -come easily away. Then pick them out, -and after straining the liquor into a -clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish -until the next day. Now cut it down in -slices about ½ inch thick, lay on them a -stiff batter made of egg, flour, and bread-crumbs -in the above proportion; season -with pepper and salt, and plunge them -into a pan of boiling lard. Fry the slices -a nice brown, dry them before the fire -for a minute or two, dish them on a -napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. -This should be eaten with melted butter, -mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to -have the lard boiling to <i>set</i> the batter, -or the pieces of feet will run about the -pan. The liquor they were boiled in -should be saved, and will be found useful -for enriching gravies, making jellies, &c. -<i>Time.</i>—About 3 hours to stew the feet, -10 or 15 minutes to fry them. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March -to October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This dish can be highly recommended -to delicate persons.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S-FEET JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of calf’s-feet stock, -½ lb. sugar, ½ pint of sherry, 1 glass of -brandy, the shells and whites of 5 eggs, -the rind and juice of 2 lemons, ½ oz. of -isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare the stock as -directed in recipe for <a href="#STOCKS">stock</a>, taking care -to leave the sediment, and to remove all -the fat from the surface. Put it into a -saucepan cold, without clarifying it; -add the remaining ingredients, and stir -them well together before the saucepan -is placed on the fire. Then simmer the -mixture gently for ¼ hour, <i>but do not stir -it after it begins to warm</i>. Throw in a -teacupful of cold water, boil for another -5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered -by the side of the fire for about ½ hour,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> -but do not let it boil again. In simmering, -the head or scum may be carefully -removed as it rises; but particular -attention must be given to the jelly, -that it be not stirred in the slightest -degree after it is heated. The isinglass -should be added when the jelly begins -to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes -it firmer for turning out. Wring out a -jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a -stand, or the back of a chair; place it -near the fire with a basin underneath it, -and run the jelly through it. Should it -not be perfectly clear the first time, -repeat the process until the desired -brilliancy is obtained. Soak the moulds -in water, drain them for half a second, -pour in the jelly, and put it in a cool -place to set. If ice is at hand, surround -the moulds with it, and the jelly will set -sooner, and be firmer when turned out. -In summer it is necessary to have ice in -which to put the moulds, or the cook -will be, very likely, disappointed, by her -jellies being in too liquid a state to turn -out properly, unless a great deal of isinglass -is used. When wanted for table, -dip the moulds in hot water for a minute, -wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish -on the top of the mould, turn it quickly -over, and the jelly should slip out easily. -It is sometimes served broken into square -lumps, and piled high in glasses. Earthenware -moulds are preferable to those of -pewter or tin for red jellies, the colour -and transparency of the composition -being often spoiled by using the latter. -To make this jelly more economically, -raisin wine may be substituted for the -sherry and brandy, and the stock made -from cow-heels, instead of calf’s feet. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to simmer the jelly, -½ hour to stand covered. <i>Average cost,</i> -reckoning the feet at 6<i>d.</i> each, 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to fill two 1½-pint moulds. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;"> -<img src="images/illus-060.jpg" width="244" height="245" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JELLY-MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—As lemon-juice, unless carefully -strained, is liable to make the jelly -muddy, see that it is clear before it is -added to the other ingredients. Omit -the brandy when the flavour is objected -to.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD à la Maître d’Hôtel.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a cold calf’s head, -rather more than ½ pint of maître -d’hôtel sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the sauce -by the given recipe, and have it sufficiently -thick that it may nicely cover -the meat; remove the bones from the -head, and cut the meat into neat slices. -When the sauce is ready, lay in the -meat; <i>gradually</i> warm it through, and, -after it boils up, let it simmer very -gently for 5 minutes, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, Boiled (with the -Skin on).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Calf’s head, boiling -water, bread-crumbs, 1 large bunch of -parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to -taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, -1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, 2 or 3 -grains of cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the head -into boiling water, and let it remain by -the side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take -it out, hold it by the ear, and with the -back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should -it not come off easily, dip the head again -into boiling water). When perfectly -clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, -and remove the brain, which soak for an -hour in warm water. Put the head into -hot water to soak for a few minutes, to -make it look white, and then have ready -a stewpan, into which lay the head; cover -it with cold water, and bring it gradually -to boil. Remove the scum, and add a -little salt, which assists to throw it up. -Simmer it very gently from 2½ to 3 hours, -and when nearly done, boil the brains -for ¼ hour; skin and chop them, not -too finely, and add a tablespoonful of -minced parsley which has been previously -scalded. Season with pepper and salt, -and stir the brains, parsley, &c., into -about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; -add the lemon-juice and cayenne, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> -keep these hot by the side of the fire. -Take up the head, cut out the tongue, -skin it, put it on a small dish with the -brains round it; sprinkle over the head -a few bread-crumbs mixed with a little -minced parsley; brown these before the -fire, and serve with a tureen of parsley -and butter, and either boiled bacon, -ham, or pickled pork as an accompaniment. -<i>Time.</i>—2½ to 3 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, according to the season, from 3<i>s.</i> to -7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 or 9 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, Boiled (without -the Skin).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Calf’s head, water, a little -salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, -1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper -and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of -lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—After the head -has been thoroughly cleaned, and the -brains removed, soak it in warm water -to blanch it. Lay the brains also into -warm water to soak, and let them remain -for about an hour. Put the head into a -stewpan, with sufficient cold water to -cover it, and, when it boils, add a little -salt; take off every particle of scum as -it rises, and boil the head until perfectly -tender. Boil the brains, chop them, and -mix with them melted butter, minced -parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice in -the above proportion. Take up the head, -skin the tongue, and put it on a small -dish with the brains round it. Have -ready some parsley and butter, smother -the head with it, and the remainder send to -table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled -pork, or a pig’s cheek, are indispensable -with calf s head. The brains are sometimes -chopped with hard-boiled eggs, and -mixed with a little Béchamel or white -sauce. <i>Time.</i>—From 1½ to 2¼ hours. -<i>Average cost,</i> according to the season, -from 3<i>s.</i> to 5<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 293px;"> -<img src="images/illus-061a.jpg" width="293" height="141" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CALF’S HEAD.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 242px;"> -<img src="images/illus-061b.jpg" width="242" height="91" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HALF A CALF’S HEAD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The liquor in which the head -was boiled should be saved: it makes -excellent soup, and will be found a nice -addition to gravies, &c. Half a calf’s -head is as frequently served as a whole -one, it being a more convenient-sized -joint for a small family. It is cooked in -the same manner, and served with the -same sauces, as in the preceding recipe.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, Collared.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A calf’s head, 4 tablespoonfuls -of minced parsley, 4 blades of -pounded mace, ½ teaspoonful of grated -nutmeg, white pepper to taste, a few -thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs -boiled hard. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald the head for -a few minutes; take it out of the water, -and with a blunt knife scrape off all the -hair. Clean it nicely, divide the head -and remove the brains. Boil it tender -enough to take out the bones, which will -be in about 2 hours. When the head is -boned, flatten it on the table, sprinkle -over it a thick layer of parsley, then a -layer of ham, and then the yolks of the -eggs cut into thin rings and put a seasoning -of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white -pepper between each layer; roll the head -up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as -possible. Boil it for 4 hours, and when -it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy -weight on the top, the same as for other -collared meats. Let it remain till cold; -then remove the cloth and binding, and it -will be ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -6 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> to 7<i>s.</i> each. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, Fricasseed (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a boiled calf’s head, -1½ pint of the liquor in which the head -was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, -1 onion minced, a bunch of savoury -herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, -thickening of butter and flour, the; yolks -of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -forcemeat balls. <i>Mode.</i>—Remove all the -bones from the head, and cut the meat -into nice square pieces. Put 1½ pint of -the liquor it was boiled in into a saucepan, -with mace, onions, herbs, and seasoning<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> -in the above proportion: let this simmer -gently for ¾ hour, then strain it and put -in the meat. When quite hot through, -thicken the gravy with a little butter -rolled in flour, and, just before dishing -the fricassee, put in the beaten yolks of -eggs, and lemon-juice; but be particular, -after these two latter ingredients are -added, that the sauce does not boil, or it -will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat -balls and curled slices of broiled bacon. -To insure the sauce being smooth, it is -a good plan to dish the meat first, and -then to add the eggs to the gravy: when -these are set, the sauce may be poured -over the meat. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 1¼ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -meat, 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, Hashed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a cold boiled calf’s head, -1 quart of the liquor in which it was -boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, -1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades -of pounded mace, salt and white pepper -to taste, a very little cayenne, rather -more than 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, -1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful -of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat -balls. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat into neat -slices, and put the bones and trimmings -into a stewpan with the above proportion -of liquor that the head was boiled in. -Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, -1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, and -2 blades of pounded mace, and let these -boil for 1 hour, or until the gravy is -reduced nearly half. Strain it into a -clean stewpan, thicken it with a little -butter and flour, and add a flavouring of -sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the -above proportion; season with pepper, -salt, and a little cayenne; put in the -meat, let it <i>gradually</i> warm through, but -not boil more than <i>two</i> or <i>three</i> minutes. -Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls -and pieces of bacon rolled and toasted, -placed alternately, and send it to table -very hot. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the remains of -the head, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, Moulded.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a calf’s head, some thin -slices of ham or bacon, 6 or 8 eggs boiled -hard, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, pepper, -mixed spice, and parsley, ½ pint of good -white gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the head into -thin slices. Butter a tin mould, cut the -yolks of eggs in half, and put some of -them round the tin; sprinkle some of -the parsley, spice, &c., over it; then put -in the head and the bacon in layers, -adding occasionally more eggs and spice -till the whole of the head is used. Pour -in the gravy, cover the top with a thin -paste of flour and water, and bake ¾ of -an hour. Take off the paste, and, when -cold, turn it out. <i>Time.</i>—From ¾ to -1 hour to bake the preparation. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S HEAD, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>This is not altogether the most easy-looking -dish to cut when it is put before -a carver for the first time; there is not -much real difficulty in the operation, however, -when the head has been attentively -examined, and, after the manner of a -phrenologist, you get to know its bumps, -good and bad. In the first place, inserting -the knife -quite down to -the bone, cut -slices in the direction -of the -line 1 to 2; with -each of these -should be helped -a piece of what is called the throat -sweetbread, cut in the direction of from -3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh round, -are favourite morsels with many, and -should be given to those at the table who -are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. -The jawbone being removed, there will -then be found some nice lean; and the -palate, which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, -lies under the head. On a separate -dish there is always served the tongue -and brains, and each guest should be -asked to take some of these.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 204px;"> -<img src="images/illus-062.jpg" width="204" height="99" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CALF’S HEAD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CALF’S LIVER, aux Fines Herbes -and Sauce Piquante.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A calf’s liver, flour, a -bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; -when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 -teaspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of -vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -pepper and salt to taste, ¼ pint water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Procure a calf’s liver as white as -possible, and cut it into slices of a good -and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and -fry them of a good colour in a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> -butter. When they are done, put them -on a dish, which keep hot before the fire. -Mince the herbs very fine, put them in -the frying-pan with a little more butter; -add the remaining ingredients, simmer -gently until the herbs are done, and pour -over the liver. <i>Time.</i>—According to the -thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S LIVER and BACON</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, -pepper and salt to taste, a small piece -of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, -¼ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -liver in thin slices, and cut as many -slices of bacon as there are of liver; fry -the bacon first, and put that on a hot -dish before the fire. Fry the liver in the -fat which comes from the bacon, after -seasoning it with pepper and salt and -dredging over it a very little flour. Turn -the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, -and when done, lay it round the -dish with a piece of bacon between each. -Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small -piece of butter, dredge in a little flour, -add the lemon-juice and water, give one -boil, and pour it in the <i>middle</i> of the -dish. It may be garnished with slices of -cut lemon, or forcemeat balls. <i>Time.</i>—According -to the thickness of the slices, -from 5 to 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>CALF’S LIVER, Larded and -Roasted (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A calf’s liver, vinegar, -1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley and -thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, -lardoons, brown gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -a fine white liver, and lard it the -same as a fricandeau; put it into vinegar -with an onion cut in slices, parsley, -thyme, bay-leaf, and seasoning in the -above proportion. Let it remain in this -pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste -it frequently with the vinegar, &c.; glaze -it, serve under it a good brown gravy, -or sauce piquante, and send it to table -very hot. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Calf’s liver stuffed with forcemeat -(<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#FORCEMEATS">Forcemeat</a></span>), to which has -been added a little fat bacon, will be -found a very savoury dish. It should be -larded or wrapped in buttered paper, -and roasted before a clear fire. Brown -gravy and currant jelly should be served -with it.</p> - - -<h3>CAMP VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 head of garlic, ½ oz. -cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls of soy, 2 ditto -walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal -to colour. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the garlic, -and put it, with all the above ingredients, -into a clean bottle. Let it stand to -infuse for a month, when strain it off -quite clear, and it will be fit for use. -Keep it in small bottles well sealed, to -exclude the air. <i>Average cost</i> for this -quantity, 8<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CANARY PUDDING (very good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The weight of 3 eggs in -sugar and butter, the weight of 2 eggs -in flour, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Melt the butter to a liquid state, -but do not allow it to oil; stir to this -the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel, -and gradually dredge in the flour, keeping -the mixture well stirred; whisk the -eggs; add these to the pudding; beat -all the ingredients until thoroughly -blended, and put them into a buttered -mould or basin; boil for 2 hours, and serve -with sweet sauce. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CANNELONS, or Fried Puffs -(Sweet Entremets).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of puff-paste; apricot, -or any kind of preserve that may be -preferred; hot lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Cannelons, -which are made of puff-paste rolled very -thin, with jam inclosed, and cut out in long -narrow rolls or puffs, make a very pretty -and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste -by the recipe given; roll it out -very thin, and cut it into pieces of an -equal size, about 2 inches wide and 8 -inches long; place upon each piece a -spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the -white of egg, and fold the paste over -<i>twice</i>; slightly press the edges together, -that the jam may not escape in the frying; -and when all are prepared, fry -them in boiling lard until of a nice brown, -letting them remain by the side of the -fire after they are coloured, that the -paste may be thoroughly done. Drain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> -them before the fire, dish on a d’oyley, -sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and -serve. These cannelons are very delicious -made with fresh instead of preserved -fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, -or currants: it should be laid in the -paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled -over, and folded and fried in the same -manner as stated above. <i>Time.</i>—About -10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—½ -lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish -of cannelons. <i>Seasonable</i>, with jam, at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAPER SAUCE, for Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredient</i>s.—½ pint of melted butter, -3 dessertspoonfuls of capers, 1 dessertspoonful -of their liquor, a small piece of -glaze, if at hand (this may be dispensed -with), ¼ teaspoonful of salt, ditto of -pepper, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the capers across -once or twice, but do not chop them fine; -put them in a saucepan with ½ pint of good -melted butter, and add all the other ingredients. -Keep stirring the whole -until it just simmers, when it is ready to -serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3 -slices of salmon.</p> - - -<h3>CAPER SAUCE, for Boiled Mutton.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of melted butter, -3 tablespoonfuls of capers or nasturtiums, -1 tablespoonful of their liquor. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the capers twice or thrice, and add -them, with their liquor, to ½ pint of melted -butter, made very smoothly with milk; -keep stirring well; let the sauce just -simmer, and serve in a tureen. Pickled -nasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured, and -by many are eaten in preference to -capers. They make an excellent sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—2 minutes to simmer. <i>Average -cost</i> for this quantity, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -serve with a leg of mutton.</p> - - -<h3>CAPER SAUCE, a Substitute for.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of melted butter, -2 tablespoonfuls of cut parsley, ½ teaspoonful -of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the parsley slowly to -let it become a bad colour; cut, but do -not chop it fine. Add it to ½ pint of -smoothly-made melted butter, with salt -and vinegar in the above proportions. -Boil up and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 minutes to -simmer. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -3<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CAPSICUMS, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Vinegar, ¼ oz. of pounded -mace, and ¼ oz. of grated nutmeg, to -each quart; brine. <i>Mode.</i>—Gather the -pods with the stalks on, before they turn -red; slit them down the side with a -small-pointed knife, and remove the -seeds only; put them in a strong brine -for 3 days, changing it every morning; -then take them out, lay them on a cloth, -with another one over them, until they -are perfectly free from moisture. Boil -sufficient vinegar to cover them, with -mace and nutmeg in the above proportions; -put the pods in a jar, pour over -the vinegar when cold, and exclude them -from the air by means of a wet bladder -tied over.</p> - - -<h3>CARP, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 carp, forcemeat, bread-crumbs, -1 oz. butter, ½ pint of stock (<i>see</i> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#STOCKS">Stock</a></span>), ½ pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, -2 onions sliced, 1 bay-leaf, a faggot of -sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juice -of 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; -½ teaspoonful of powdered sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Stuff -the carp with a delicate forcemeat, -after thoroughly cleansing it, and -sew it up, to prevent the stuffing from -falling out. Rub it over with an egg, -and sprinkle it with bread-crumbs, lay it -in a deep earthen dish, and drop the -butter, oiled, over the bread-crumbs. -Add the stock, onions, bay-leaf, herbs, -wine, and anchovies, and bake for 1 hour. -Put 1 oz. of butter into a stewpan, melt -it, and dredge in sufficient flour to dry it -up; put in the strained liquor from the -carp, stir frequently, and when it has -boiled, add the lemon-juice and seasoning. -Serve the carp on a dish garnished -with parsley and cut lemon, and the sauce -in a boat. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour. <i>Average -cost.</i> Seldom bought. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October. <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 or 2 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>CARP, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 carp, salt, stock, 2 -onions, 6 cloves, 12 peppercorns, 1 blade -of mace, ¼ pint of port wine, the juice of -½ lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a -faggot of savoury herbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> -the fish, clean it nicely, and, if very -large, divide it; lay it in the stewpan, -after having rubbed a little salt on it, and -put in sufficient stock to cover it; add -the herbs, onions and spices, and stew -gently for 1 hour, or rather more, should -it be very large. Dish up the fish with -great care, strain the liquor, and add to -it the port wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; -give one boil, pour it over the -fish, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour. <i>Average -cost.</i> Seldom bought. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October. <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 -or 2 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This fish can be boiled plain, and -served with parsley and butter. Chub -and Char may be cooked in the same -manner as the above, as also Dace and -Roach.</p> - - -<h3>CARROT JAM, to Imitate Apricot -Preserve.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Carrots; to every lb. of -carrot pulp allow 1 lb. of pounded sugar, -the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained -juice of 2, 6 chopped bitter almonds, 2 -tablespoonfuls of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Select -young carrots; wash and scrape them -clean, cut them into round pieces, put -them into a saucepan with sufficient -water to cover them, and let them simmer, -until perfectly soft; then beat them -through a sieve. Weigh the pulp, and -to every lb. allow the above ingredients. -Put the pulp into a preserving-pan with -the sugar, and let this boil for 5 minutes, -stirring and skimming all the time. When -cold, add the lemon-rind and juice, almonds -and brandy; mix these well with -the jam; then put it into pots, which -must be well covered and kept in a dry -place. The brandy may be omitted, but -the preserve will then not keep: with -the brandy it will remain good for months. -<i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour to boil the carrots; -5 minutes to simmer the pulp. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> for 1 lb. of pulp, with the -other ingredients in proportion. <i>Sufficient</i> -to fill 3 pots. <i>Seasonable</i> from July -to December.</p> - - -<h3>CARROT PUDDING, Baked or -Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of bread-crumbs, 4 -oz. suet, ¼ lb. of stoned raisins, ¾ lb. of -carrot, ¼ lb. of currants, 3 oz. of sugar, -3 eggs, milk, ¼ nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the carrots, until tender enough to mash -to a pulp; add the remaining ingredients, -and moisten with sufficient milk -to make the pudding of the consistency -of thick batter. If to be boiled, put the -mixture into a buttered basin, tie it down -with a cloth, and boil for 2½ hours: if to -be baked, put it into a pie-dish, and bake -for nearly an hour; turn it out of the -dish, strew sifted sugar over it, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours to boil; 1 hour -to bake. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - - -<h3>CARROT SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 quarts of liquor in -which a leg of mutton or beef has been -boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, -2 large onions, 1 turnip; seasoning of -salt and pepper to taste; cayenne. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the liquor, bones, onions, -turnip, pepper, and salt, into a stewpan, -and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut -the carrots thin, strain the soup on them, -and stew them till soft enough to pulp -through a hair sieve or coarse cloth; -then boil the pulp with the soup, which -should be of the consistency of pea-soup. -Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of -the carrot, and make this soup the day -before it is wanted. <i>Time.</i>—4½ hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, per quart, 1½<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>CARROT SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of -butter, seasoning to taste of salt and -cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup. -<i>Mode.</i>—Scrape and cut out all specks -from the carrots, wash, and wipe them -dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch -slices. Put the butter into a large -stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. -of the sliced carrots, and let them stow -gently for an hour without browning. -Add to them the soup, and allow them -to simmer till tender,—say for nearly an -hour. Press them through a strainer -with the soup, and add salt and cayenne -if required. Boil the whole gently for -5 minutes, skim well, and serve as hot as -possible. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -per quart, 1<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CARROTS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water, -allow one heaped tablespoonful of salt; -carrots. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut off the green tops,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> -wash and scrape the carrots, and should -there be any black specks, remove them. -If very large, cut them in halves, divide -them lengthwise into four pieces, and put -them into boiling water, salted in the -above proportion; let them boil until -tender, which may be ascertained by -thrusting a fork into them: dish, and -serve very hot. This vegetable is an -indispensable accompaniment to boiled -beef. When thus served, it is usually -boiled with the beef; a few carrots are -placed round the dish as a garnish, and -the remainder sent to table in a vegetable-dish. -Young carrots do not require -nearly so much boiling, nor should they -be divided: these make a nice addition -to stewed veal, &c. <i>Time.</i>—Large carrots, -1¾ to 2¼ hours; young ones, about ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per bunch of 18. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—4 large carrots for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Young carrots -from April to July, old ones at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>CARROTS, to dress, in the German -way.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 large carrots, 3 oz. of -butter, salt to taste, a very little grated -nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced -parsley, 1 dessertspoonful of minced -onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak -stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash and scrape the carrots, -and cut them into rings of about ¼ inch -in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan; -when it is melted, lay in the carrots, -with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and -onion in the above proportions. Toss -the stewpan over the fire for a few -minutes, and when the carrots are well -saturated with the butter, pour in the -stock, and simmer gently until they are -nearly tender. Then put into another -stewpan a small piece of butter; dredge -in about a tablespoonful of flour; stir -this over the fire, and when of a nice -brown colour, add the liquor that the -carrots have been boiling in; let this -just boil up, pour it over the carrots in -the other stewpan, and let them finish -simmering until quite tender. Serve -very hot. This vegetable, dressed as -above, is a favourite accompaniment to -roast pork, sausages, &c., &c. <i>Time.</i>—About -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> -per bunch of 18. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 -persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Young carrots -from April to July, old ones at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CARROTS, Sliced (Entremets, or -to be served with the Second -Course, as a Side-Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 or 6 large carrots, a -large lump of sugar, 1 pint of weak stock, -3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Scrape -and wash the carrots, cut them -into slices of an equal size, and boil them -in salt and water until half done; drain -them well, put them into a stewpan with -the sugar and stock, and let them boil -over a brisk fire. When reduced to a -glaze, add the fresh butter and a seasoning -of salt; shake the stewpan about -well, and when the butter is well mixed -with the carrots, serve. There should -be no sauce in the dish when it comes to -table, but it should all adhere to the -carrots. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per bunch of 18. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 1 dish. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Young -carrots from April to July, old ones at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>CARROTS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—7 or 8 large carrots, 1 -teacupful of broth, pepper and salt to -taste, ½ teacupful of cream, thickening -of butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Scrape the -carrots nicely; half-boil, and slice them -into a stewpan; add the broth, pepper -and salt, and cream; simmer till tender, -and be careful the carrots are not broken. -A few minutes before serving, mix a -little flour with about 1 oz. of butter; -thicken the gravy with this; let it just -boil up, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About ¾ -hour to boil the carrots, about 20 minutes -to cook them after they are sliced. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per bunch of 18. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Young -carrots from April to July, old -ones at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAULIFLOWERS à la SAUCE -BLANCHE (Entremets, or Side-dish, -to be served with the Second -Course).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 cauliflowers, ½ pint of -sauce blanche, or French melted butter, -3 oz. of butter, salt and water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse -the cauliflowers as in the succeeding -recipe, and cut the stalks off -flat at the bottom; boil them until tender -in salt and water, to which the above -proportion of butter has been added, and -be careful to take them up the moment -they are done, or they will break, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> -the appearance of the dish will be spoiled. -Drain them well, and dish them in the -shape of a large cauliflower. Have ready -½ pint of sauce made by recipe, pour it -over the flowers, and serve hot and -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—Small cauliflowers, 12 -to 15 minutes; large ones, 20 to 25 minutes, -after the water boils. <i>Average -cost</i>, large cauliflowers, in full season, -6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i>, 1 large cauliflower -for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from the -beginning of June to the end of September.</p> - - -<h3>CAULIFLOWERS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose cauliflowers that are close -and white; trim off the decayed outside -leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the -bottom. Open the flower a little in -places to remove the insects, which are -generally found about the stalk, and let -the cauliflowers -lie in salt and -water for an -hour previous to -dressing them, -with their heads -downwards: -this will effectually draw out all the vermin. -Then put them into fast-boiling -water, with the addition of salt in the -above proportion, and let them boil -briskly over a good fire, keeping the -saucepan uncovered, and the water well -skimmed. When the cauliflowers are -tender, take them up with a slice; let -them drain, and, if large enough, place -them upright in the dish. Serve with -plain melted butter, a little of which -may be poured over the flower. <i>Time.</i>—Small -cauliflower 12 to 15 minutes, -large one 20 to 25 minutes, after the -water boils. <i>Average cost</i>, for large cauliflowers, -6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 large cauliflower for 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the beginning of June to -the end of September.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 194px;"> -<img src="images/illus-067.jpg" width="194" height="78" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED CAULIFLOWER.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CAULIFLOWERS, with Parmesan -Cheese (Entremets, or Side-dish, -to be served with the Second -Course).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather -more than ½ pint of white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls -of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz. -of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers -by the preceding recipe, drain -them, and dish them with the flowers -standing upright. Have ready the above -proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient -of it over the cauliflowers just to cover -the top; sprinkle over this some rasped -Parmesan cheese and bread-crumbs, and -drop on these the butter, which should -be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a -salamander, or before the fire, and pour -round, but not over, the flowers the remainder -of the sauce, with which should -be mixed a small quantity of grated -Parmesan cheese. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, for large cauliflowers, -6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—3 small -cauliflowers for 1 dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from -the beginning of June to the end of -September.</p> - - -<h3>CAYENNE CHEESES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of butter, ½ lb. of -flour, ½ lb. of grated cheese, 1/6 teaspoonful -of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoonful of salt; -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the butter in the -flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne, -and salt, and mix these ingredients well -together. Moisten with sufficient water -to make the whole into a paste; roll out, -and cut into fingers about 4 inches in -length. Bake them in a moderate oven -a very light colour, and serve very hot. -<i>Time.</i>—15 to 20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CAYENNE VINEGAR, or Essence -of Cayenne.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ oz. of cayenne pepper, -½ pint of strong spirit, or 1 pint of vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the vinegar, or spirit, -into a bottle, with the above proportion -of cayenne, and let it steep for a month, -when strain off and bottle for use. This -is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces, -but must be used very sparingly.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 182px;"> -<img src="images/illus-068.jpg" width="182" height="272" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CELERY, IN GLASS.</div> -</div> - -<p>With a good heart, and nicely blanched, -this vegetable is generally eaten raw, and -is usually served with the cheese. Let -the roots be washed free from dirt, all -the decayed and outside leaves being -cut off, preserving as much of the stalk -as possible, and all specks or blemishes -being carefully removed. Should the -celery be large, divide it lengthwise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> -into quarters, and place it, root downwards, -in a celery-glass, which should be -rather more than -half filled with -water. The top -leaves may be -curled, by shredding -them in narrow -strips with -the point of a -clean skewer, at -a distance of -about 4 inches -from the top. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> -per head. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2 -heads for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to April.</p> - - - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This vegetable is exceedingly -useful for flavouring soups, sauces, &c., -and makes a very nice addition to winter -salad.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY SAUCE, for Boiled Turkey, -Poultry, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 heads of celery, 1 pint -of white stock, 2 blades of mace, 1 small -bunch of savoury herbs; thickening of -butter and flour, or arrowroot, ½ pint of -cream, lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the -celery in salt and water until tender, and -cut it into pieces 2 inches long. Put the -stock into a stewpan with the mace and -herbs, and let it simmer for ½ hour to -extract their flavour. Then strain the -liquor, add the celery, and a thickening -of butter kneaded with flour, or, what is -still better, with arrowroot; just before -serving, put in the cream, boil it up, and -squeeze in a little lemon-juice. If necessary, -add a seasoning of salt and white -pepper. <i>Time.</i>—25 minutes to boil the -celery. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i>, -this quantity for a boiled turkey.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This sauce may be made brown -by using gravy instead of white stock, -and flavouring it with mushroom ketchup -or Harvey’s sauce.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY SAUCE (a more simple -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 heads of celery, ½ pint -of melted butter made with milk, 1 blade -of pounded mace; salt and white pepper -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the celery, boil -it in salt and water till tender, and cut -it into pieces 2 inches long; make ½ pint -melted butter by recipe; put in the -celery, pounded mace, and seasoning; -simmer for 3 minutes, when the sauce -will be ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—25 minutes -to boil the celery. <i>Average cost</i>, -6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i>, this quantity for a boiled -fowl.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful -of salt, nutmeg to taste, 1 lump -of sugar, ½ pint of strong stock, a pint of -cream, and 2 quarts of boiling water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the celery into small pieces; -throw it into the water, seasoned with the -nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently -tender; pass it through a sieve, -add the stock, and simmer it for half an -hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to -the boiling-point, and serve immediately. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This soup can be made brown -instead of white, by omitting the cream, -and colouring it a little. When celery -cannot be procured, half a drachm of the -seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour -to the soup, if put in a quarter of an hour -before it is done. A little of the essence -of celery will answer the same purpose.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY, Stewed, à la Crême.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 heads of celery; to each -½ gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful -of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, -1/3 pint of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the -celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in -salt and water until tender. Put the -cream and pounded mace into a stewpan, -shake it over the fire until the cream -thickens, dish the celery, pour over the -sauce, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—Large heads -of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to -20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per head. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to April.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY, Stewed (with White -Sauce).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 heads of celery, 1 oz. -of butter; to each half gallon of water -allow 1 heaped teaspoonful of salt, ½ pint -of white sauce (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_Good">White Sauce</a></span>). <i>Mode.</i>—Have -ready sufficient boiling water just -to cover the celery, with salt and butter -in the above proportion. Wash the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> -celery well, cut off the decayed outside -leaves, trim away the green tops, and -shape the root into a point; put it into -the boiling water, let it boil rapidly until -tender, then take it out, drain well, place -it upon a dish, and pour over it about -½ pint of white sauce, made by recipe. -It may also be plainly boiled as -above, placed on toast, and melted butter -poured over, the same as asparagus -is dished. <i>Time.</i>—Large heads of celery -25 minutes, small ones 15 to 20 minutes, -after the water boils. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> -per head. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from October to April.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY, Stewed (with White -Sauce).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 heads of celery, ½ pint -of white stock or weak broth, 4 tablespoonfuls -of cream, thickening of butter -and flour, 1 blade of pounded mace, a -<i>very little</i> grated nutmeg; pepper and -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the celery, -strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into -lengths of about 4 inches. Put these -into a saucepan, with the broth, and -stow till tender, which will be in from -20 to 25 minutes; then add the remaining -ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 -minutes, pour into a dish, and serve. It -may be garnished with sippets of toasted -bread. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per head. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 -or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from October -to April.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—By cutting the celery into -smaller pieces, by stewing it a little -longer, and, when done, by pressing it -through a sieve, the above stew may be -converted into a Purée of Celery.</p> - - -<h3>CELERY VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ oz. of celery-seed, 1 -pint of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Crush the seed -by pounding it in a mortar; boil the -vinegar, and when cold, pour it to the -seed; let it infuse for a fortnight, when -strain and bottle off for use. This is -frequently used in salads.</p> - - -<h3>CHAMPAGNE-CUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart bottle of champagne, -2 bottles of soda-water, 1 liqueur-glass -of brandy or Curaçoa, 2 tablespoonfuls -of powdered sugar, 1 lb. of pounded -ice, a sprig of green borage. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients into a silver cup; -stir them together, and serve the same -as claret-cup. Should the above proportion -of sugar not be found sufficient to -suit some tastes, increase the quantity. -When borage is not easily obtainable, -substitute for it a few slices of cucumber-rind. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable for pic-nics -balls, weddings, and other festive occasions.</p> - - -<h3>CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few slices of rather -stale bread ½ inch thick, clarified butter, -apple marmalade, with about 2 dozen -apples, ½ glass of sherry. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut a -slice of bread the same shape as the bottom -of a plain round mould, which has -been well buttered, and a few strips the -height of the mould, and about 1½ inch -wide; dip the -bread in clarified -butter -(or spread it -with cold butter, -if not -wanted quite -so rich); place -the round -piece at the bottom of the mould, and -set the narrow strips up the sides of it, -overlapping each other a little, that no -juice from the apples may escape, and -that they may hold firmly to the mould. -Brush the <i>interior</i> over with the white of -egg (this will assist to make the case -firmer); fill it with the apple marmalade, -with the addition of a little sherry, and -cover them with a round piece of bread, -also brushed over with egg, the same as -the bottom; slightly press the bread -down to make it adhere to the other -pieces; put a plate on the top, and bake -the <i>charlotte</i> in a brisk oven, of a light -colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew -sifted sugar over the top, and pour round -it a little melted apricot jam. <i>Time.</i>—40 -to 50 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from July to March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;"> -<img src="images/illus-069.jpg" width="211" height="134" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.</div> -</div> - -<h3>CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES, -an easy method of making.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -butter, ¼ lb. of powdered sugar, ½ teaspoonful -of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, -1 glass of raisin-wine, apple marmalade, -¼ pint of cream, 2 dessert spoonfuls of -pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> -<i>Mode.</i>—Make a cake with the flour, -butter, sugar, and baking-powder; moisten -with the egg and sufficient milk to -make it the proper consistency, and bake -it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out -the middle, leaving a good thickness all -round the sides, to prevent them breaking; -take some of the scooped-out -pieces, which should be trimmed into -neat slices; lay them in the cake, and -pour over sufficient raisin-wine, with the -addition of a little brandy, if approved, -to soak them well. Have ready some -apple marmalade, made by recipe; place -a layer of this over the soaked cake, then -a layer of cake and a layer of apples; -whip the cream to a froth, mixing with -it the sugar and lemon-juice; pile it on -the top of the <i>charlotte</i>, and garnish it -with pieces of clear apple jelly. This -dish is served cold, but may be eaten hot -by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing -the top with bright jelly just -before it is sent to table. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour -to bake the cake. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from July to March.</p> - - -<h3>CHARLOTTE, Russe (an elegant -Sweet Entremets).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 18 Savoy biscuits, -¾ pint of cream, flavouring of vanilla, -liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of -pounded sugar, ½ oz. of isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -about 18 Savoy biscuits, or -ladies’-fingers, as they are sometimes -called; brush the edges of them with the -white of an egg, and line the bottom of a -plain round mould, placing them like -a star or rosette. Stand them upright -all round the edge, carefully put them so -closely together that the white of egg -connects them firmly, and place this case -in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to -dry the egg. Whisk the cream to a stiff -froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and -melted isinglass; fill the charlotte with -it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake cut -in the shape of the mould; place it in -ice, where let it remain till ready for -table; then turn it on a dish, remove -the mould, and serve. 1 tablespoonful -of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls -of wine, would nicely flavour the above -proportion of cream. For arranging the -biscuits in the mould, cut them to the -shape required, so that they fit in nicely, -and level them with the mould at the -top, that, when turned out, there may be -something firm to rest upon. Great care -and attention is required in the turning -out of this dish, that the cream does not -burst the case; and the edges of the biscuits -must have the smallest quantity of -egg brushed over them, or it would stick -to the mould, and so prevent the charlotte -from coming away properly. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes in the oven. <i>Average cost</i>, -with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 charlotte. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>CHEESE.</h3> - -<p>Cheese is the curd formed from milk by -artificial coagulation, pressed and dried for -use. Curd, called also casein and caseous -matter, or the basis of cheese, exists in -the milk, and not in the cream, and requires -only to be separated by coagulation: -the coagulation, however, supposes -some alteration of the curd. By means -of the substance employed to coagulate -it, it is rendered insoluble in water. -When the curd is freed from the whey, -kneaded and pressed to expel it entirely, -it becomes cheese; this assumes a degree -of transparency, and possesses many of -the properties of coagulated albumen. -If it be well dried, it does not change by -exposure to the air; but if it contain -moisture, it soon putrefies; it therefore -requires some salt to preserve it, and this -acts likewise as a kind of seasoning. All -our cheese is coloured more or less, except -that made from skim milk. The -colouring substances employed are arnatto, -turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly -harmless unless they are adulterated; -and it is said that arnatto sometimes -contains red lead.</p> - -<p>Cheese varies in quality and richness -according to the materials of which it is -composed. It is made—1. Of entire milk, -as in Cheshire; 2. of milk and cream, as -at Stilton; 3. of new milk mixed with -skim milk, as in Gloucestershire; 4. of -skimmed milk only, as in Suffolk, Holland, -and Italy.</p> - -<p>The principal varieties of cheese used -in England are the following: <i>Cheshire -cheese</i>, famed all over Europe for its rich -quality and fine piquante flavour. It is -made of entire new milk, the cream not -being taken off. <i>Gloucester cheese</i> is much -milder in its taste than the Cheshire. -There are two kinds of Gloucester cheese, -single and double:—<i>Single Gloucester</i> is -made of skimmed milk, or of the milk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> -deprived of half the cream; <i>Double -Gloucester</i> is a cheese that pleases almost -every palate: it is made of the whole -milk and cream. <i>Stilton cheese</i> is made -by adding the cream of one day to the -entire milk of the next: it was first made -at Stilton, in Leicestershire. <i>Sage cheese</i> -is so called from the practice of colouring -some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves, -and parsley, and mixing this -with some uncoloured curd. With the -Romans, and during the middle ages, -this practice was extensively adopted. -<i>Cheddar cheese</i> much resembles Parmesan. -It has a very agreeable taste and flavour, -and has a spongy appearance. <i>Brickbat -cheese</i> has nothing remarkable except its -form. It is made by turning with rennet -a mixture of cream and new milk; the -curd is put into a wooden vessel the -shape of a brick, and is then pressed and -dried in the usual way. <i>Dunlop cheese</i> -has a peculiarly mild and rich taste: the -best is made entirely from new milk. -<i>New cheese</i> (as it is called in London) is -made chiefly in Lincolnshire, and is either -made of all cream, or, like Stilton, by -adding the cream of one day’s milking -to the milk that comes immediately from -the cow: they are extremely thin, and -are compressed gently two or three times, -turned for a few days, and then eaten -new with radishes, salad, &c. <i>Skimmed -Milk cheese</i> is made for sea voyages principally. -<i>Parmesan cheese</i> is made in -Parma and Piacenza. It is the most -celebrated of all cheese: it is made entirely -of skimmed cows’ milk; the high -flavour which it has is supposed to be -owing to the rich herbage of the meadows -of the Po, where the cows are pastured. -The best Parmesan is kept for three or -four years, and none is carried to market -till it is at least six months old. <i>Dutch -cheese</i> derives its peculiar pungent taste -from the practice adopted in Holland of -coagulating the milk with muriatic acid -instead of rennet. <i>Swiss cheeses</i>, in their -several varieties, are all remarkable for -their fine flavour; that from <i>Gruyère</i>, a -bailiwick in the canton of Fribourg, is -best known in England; it is flavoured -by the dried herb of <i>Melilotus officinalis</i> -in powder. Cheese from milk and potatoes -is manufactured in Thuringia and -Saxony. <i>Cream cheese</i>, although so called, -is not properly cheese, but is nothing -more than cream dried sufficiently to be -cut with a knife.</p> - -<p>In families where much cheese is consumed, -and it is bought in large quantities, -a piece from the whole cheese -should be cut, the larger quantity spread -with a thickly-buttered sheet of white -paper, and the outside occasionally wiped. -To keep cheeses moist that are in daily -use, when they come from table a damp -cloth should be wrapped round them, -and the cheese put into a pan with a -cover to it, in a cool but not very dry -place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them -forward, put them into a damp cellar; -and to check too large a production of -mites, spirits may be poured into the -parts affected. Pieces of cheese which -are too near the rind, or too dry to put -on table, may be made into Welsh rarebits, -or grated down and mixed with -macaroni. Cheeses may be preserved in -a perfect state for years, by covering -them with parchment made pliable by -soaking in water, or by rubbing them -over with a coating of melted fat. The -cheeses selected should be free from -cracks or bruises of any kind.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 186px;"> -<img src="images/illus-071.jpg" width="186" height="100" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CHEESE-GLASS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CHEESE, Mode of Serving.</h3> - -<p>The usual mode of serving cheese at -good tables is to cut a small quantity of -it into neat square pieces, and to put -them into a glass cheese-dish, this dish -being handed -round. Should -the cheese crumble -much, of -course this method -is rather -wasteful, and it -may then be put on the table in the -piece, and the host may cut from it. -When served thus, the cheese must always -be carefully scraped, and laid on -a white d’oyley or napkin, neatly folded. -Cream cheese is often served in a cheese -course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan: -the latter should be put into a -covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, -pats or slices of butter, and salad, -cucumber, or water-cresses, should always -form part of a cheese-course.</p> - - -<h3>CHEESE, Pounded.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of cheese -allow 3 oz. of fresh butter. <i>Mode.</i>—To -pound cheese is an economical way of -using it if it has become dry; it is exceedingly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> -good spread on bread, and is -the best way of eating it for those whose -digestion is weak. Cut up the cheese -into small pieces, and pound it smoothly -in a mortar, adding butter in the above -proportion. Press it down into a jar, -cover with clarified butter, and it will -keep for several days. The flavour may -be very much increased by adding mixed -mustard (about a teaspoonful to every -lb.), or cayenne, or pounded mace. Curry-powder -is also not infrequently mixed -with it.</p> - - -<h3>CHEESE, Toasted, or Scotch Rarebit.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few slices of rich -cheese, toast, mustard, and pepper. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut some nice rich sound cheese -into rather thin slices; melt it in a -cheese-toaster on a hot plate or over -steam, and, when melted, add a small -quantity of mixed mustard and a seasoning -of pepper; stir the cheese until it is -completely dissolved, then brown it before -the fire, or with a salamander. Fill -the bottom of the cheese-toaster with -hot water, and serve with dry or buttered -toasts, whichever may be preferred. Our -engraving illustrates -a cheese-toaster -with -hot-water reservoir: -the -cheese is melted -in the upper tin, which is placed in another -vessel of boiling water, so keeping -the preparation beautifully hot. A small -quantity of porter, or port wine, is sometimes -mixed with the cheese; and, if it -be not very rich, a few pieces of butter -may be mixed with it to great advantage. -Sometimes the melted cheese is spread -on the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-dish -at the top of the hot water. Whichever -way it is served, it is highly necessary -that the mixture be very hot, and -very quickly sent to table, or it will be -worthless. <i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes to -melt the cheese. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> per -slice. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow a slice to each -person. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 201px;"> -<img src="images/illus-072.jpg" width="201" height="87" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HOT-WATER CHEESE-DISH.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CHEESE, Toasted, or Welsh Rarebit.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Slices of bread, butter, -Cheshire or Gloucester cheese, mustard, -and pepper. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the bread into -slices about ½ inch in thickness; pare off -the crust, toast the bread slightly without -hardening or burning it, and spread -it with butter. Cut some slices, not -quite so large as the bread, from a good -rich fat cheese; lay them on the toasted -bread in a cheese-toaster; be careful that -the cheese does not burn, and let it be -equally melted. Spread over the top a -little made mustard and a seasoning of -pepper, and serve very hot, with very -hot plates. To facilitate the melting of -the cheese, it may be cut into thin flakes, -or toasted on one side before it is laid -on the bread. As it is so essential to -send this dish hot to table, it is a good -plan to melt the cheese in small round -silver or metal pans, and to send these -pans to table, allowing one for each -guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast -should always accompany them, with -mustard, pepper, and salt. <i>Time.</i>—About -5 minutes to melt the cheese. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> per slice. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -a slice to each person. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Should the cheese be dry, a -little butter mixed with it will be an -improvement.</p> - - -<h3>CHEESE SANDWICHES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Slices of brown bread-and-butter, -thin slices of cheese. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -from a nice fat Cheshire, or any -good rich cheese, some slices about ½ inch -thick, and place them between some -slices of brown bread-and-butter, like -sandwiches. Place them on a plate in -the oven, and, when the bread is toasted, -serve on a napkin very hot and very -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes in a brisk -oven. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> each sandwich. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow a sandwich for each -person. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHEESECAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 oz. of pressed curds, -2 oz. of ratafias, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of -butter, the yolks of 6 eggs, nutmegs, -salt, rind of 2 oranges or lemons. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub -the sugar on the orange or lemon -rind, and scrape it off. Press the curd -in a napkin, to get rid of moisture; pound -it thoroughly in a mortar with the other -ingredients till the whole becomes a soft -paste. Line 2 dozen, or more, tartlet-pans -with good puff-paste, garnish these -with the cheese-custard, place a strip of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> -candied-peel on the top of each, and bake -in a moderate oven a light colour; when -done, shake a little sifted sugar over -them. Currants, dried cherries, sultanas, -and citron may be used instead -of candied-peel. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to -bake. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per dozen. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHEROKEE, or Store Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ oz. of cayenne pepper, -5 cloves of garlic, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, -1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 pint -of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil all the ingredients -<i>gently</i> for about ½ hour; strain -the liquor, and bottle off for use. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This sauce can -be made at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRIES, Dried.</h3> - -<p>Cherries may be put into a slow oven -and thoroughly dried before they begin -to change colour; they should then be -taken out of the oven, tied in bunches, -and stored away in a dry place. In the -winter, they may be cooked with sugar -for dessert, the same as Normandy pippins. -Particular care must be taken that -the oven be not too hot. Another method -of drying cherries is to stone them, -and to put them into a preserving-pan, -with plenty of loaf sugar strewed amongst -them. They should be simmered till -the fruit shrivels, when they should be -strained from the juice. The cherries -should then be placed in an oven cool -enough to dry without baking them. -About 5 oz. of sugar would be required -for 1 lb. of cherries, and the same syrup -may be used again to do another quantity -of fruit.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRIES, Morello, to Preserve.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of cherries -allow 1¼ lb. of sugar, 1 gill of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Select ripe cherries, pick off the -stalks, and reject all that have any blemishes. -Boil the sugar and water together -for 5 minutes; put in the cherries, -and boil them for 10 minutes, removing -the scum as it rises. Then turn the fruit, -&c., into a pan, and let it remain until -the next day, when boil it all again for -another 10 minutes, and, if necessary, -skim well. Put the cherries into small -pots, pour over them the syrup, and, -when cold, cover down with oiled papers, -and the tops of the jars with tissue-paper -brushed over on both sides with the white -of an egg, and keep in a dry place. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -25 minutes to boil. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in July or August.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRIES, to Preserve in Syrup -(very delicious).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of cherries, 3 lbs. -of sugar, 1 pint of white-currant juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Let the cherries be as clear and -as transparent as possible, and perfectly -ripe; pick off the stalks, and remove the -stones, damaging the fruit as little as -you can. Make a syrup with the above -proportion of sugar, mix the cherries -with it, and boil them for about 15 minutes, -carefully skimming them; turn -them gently into a pan, and let them -remain till the next day, then drain the -cherries on a sieve, and put the syrup -and white-currant juice into the preserving-pan -again. Boil these together -until the syrup is somewhat reduced and -rather thick, then put in the cherries, -and let them boil for about 5 minutes; -take them off the fire, skim the syrup, -put the cherries into small pots or wide-mouthed -bottles; pour the syrup over, -and, when quite cold, tie them down -carefully, so that the air is quite excluded. -<i>Time.</i>—15 minutes to boil the cherries -in the syrup; 10 minutes to boil the -syrup and currant-juice; 5 minutes to -boil the cherries the second time. <i>Average -cost</i> for this quantity, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in July or August.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRY BRANDY, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Morello cherries, good -brandy; to every lb. of cherries allow -3 oz. of pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -ready some glass bottles, which must be -perfectly dry. Ascertain that the cherries -are not too ripe and are freshly -gathered, and cut off about half of the -stalks. Put them into the bottles, with -the above proportion of sugar to every -lb. of fruit; strew this in between the -cherries, and, when the bottles are nearly -full, pour in sufficient brandy to reach -just below the cork. A few peach or -apricot kernels will add much to their -flavour, or a few blanched bitter almonds. -Put corks or bungs into the bottles, tie -over them a piece of bladder, and store -away in a dry place. The cherries will -be fit to eat in 2 or 3 months, and will -remain good for years. They are liable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> -to shrivel and become tough if too much -sugar be added to them. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 lb. of -cherries and about a ¼ pint of brandy for -a quart bottle. <i>Seasonable</i> in August -and September.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRY JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit, -weighed before stoning, allow ½ lb. of -sugar; to every 6 lbs. of fruit allow -1 pint of red-currant juice, and to every -pint of juice 1 lb. of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Weigh -the fruit before stoning, and allow -half the weight of sugar; stone the cherries, -and boil them in a preserving-pan -until nearly all the juice is dried up, then -add the sugar, which should be crushed -to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing -1 pint to every 6 lbs. of cherries (original -weight), and 1 lb. of sugar to every -pint of juice. Boil all together until it -jellies, which will be in from 20 minutes -to ½ hour; skim the jam well, keep it -well stirred, and, a few minutes before it -is done, crack some of the stones, and -add the kernels: these impart a very -delicious flavour to the jam. <i>Time.</i>—According -to the quality of the cherries, -from ¾ to 1 hour to boil them; 20 minutes -to ½ hour with the sugar. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 7<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 -pint of fruit for a lb. pot of jam. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in July or August.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRY SAUCE, for Sweet Puddings -(German Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoonful -of flour, 1 oz. of butter, ½ pint -of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, -a little grated lemon-rind, 4 pounded -cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, -sugar to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Stone the cherries, -and pound the kernels in a mortar -to a smooth paste; put the butter and -flour into a saucepan, stir them over the -fire until of a pale brown, then add the -cherries, the pounded kernels, the wine, -and the water. Simmer these gently -for ¼ hour, or until the cherries are -quite cooked, and rub the whole through -a hair sieve; add the remaining ingredients, -let the sauce boil for another -5 minutes, and serve. This is a delicious -sauce to serve with boiled batter -pudding, and when thus used, should -be sent to table poured over the pudding. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or -5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in June, July, and -August.</p> - - -<h3>CHERRY TART.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of cherries, 2 small -tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, ½ lb. of -short crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the stalks -from the cherries, put them, with the -sugar, into a <i>deep</i> pie-dish just capable -of holding them, with a small cup placed -upside down in the midst of them. Make -a short crust with ½ lb. of flour, by either -of the recipes for short crust, lay a border -round the edge of the dish, put on -the cover, and ornament the edges; bake -in a brisk oven from ½ hour to 40 minutes; -strew finely-sifted sugar over, -and serve hot or cold, although the latter -is the more usual mode. It is more -economical to make two or three tarts at -one time, as the trimmings from one tart -answer for lining the edges of the dish -for another, and so much paste is not -required as when they are made singly. -Unless for family use, never make fruit -pies in very <i>large</i> dishes; select them, -however, as <i>deep</i> as possible. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour to 40 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, in -full season, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in June, July, and -August.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A few currants added to the -cherries will be found to impart a nice -piquante taste to them.</p> - - -<h3>CHESTNUT SAUCE, Brown.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of chestnuts, ½ pint -of stock, 2 lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls -of Spanish sauce (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#SAUCES">Sauces</a></span>). <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare -the chestnuts as in the succeeding -recipe, by scalding and peeling -them; put them in a stewpan with the -stock and sugar, and simmer them till -tender. When done, add Spanish sauce -in the above proportion, and rub the -whole through a tammy. Keep this -sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to -thicken. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour to simmer the -chestnuts. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CHESTNUT SAUCE, for Fowls -or Turkey.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of chestnuts, ½ pint -of white stock, 2 strips of lemon-peel, -cayenne to taste, ¼ pint of cream or milk. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel off the outside skin of the -chestnuts, and put them into boiling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> -water for a few minutes; take off the -thin inside peel, and put them into a -saucepan with the white stock and lemon-peel, -and let them simmer for 1½ hour, -or until the chestnuts are quite tender. -Rub the whole through a hair-sieve with -a wooden spoon; add seasoning and the -cream; let it just simmer, but not boil, -and keep stirring all the time. Serve -very hot, and quickly. If milk is used -instead of cream, a very small quantity -of thickening may be required: that, of -course, the cook will determine. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -nearly 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i>, this quantity for a -turkey.</p> - - -<h3>CHESTNUT (Spanish) SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of Spanish chestnuts, -¼ pint of cream; seasoning to taste -of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of -stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Take the outer rind from -the chestnuts, and put them into a large -pan of warm water. As soon as this -becomes too hot for the fingers to remain -in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them -quickly, and immerse them in cold water, -and wipe and weigh them. Now cover -them with good stock, and stew them -gently for rather more than ¾ of an hour, -or until they break when touched with a -fork; then drain, pound, and rub them -through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient -stock, mace, cayenne, and salt, and -stir it often until it boils, and put in the -cream. The stock in which the chestnuts -are boiled can be used for the soup, -when its sweetness is not objected to, -or it may, in part, be added to it; and -the rule is, that ¾ lb. of chestnuts should -be given to each quart of soup. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -per quart, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from October to February.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKENS, Boiled.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 264px;"> -<img src="images/illus-075.jpg" width="264" height="107" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED FOWL.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A pair of chickens, water. -<i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—In choosing -fowls for boiling, it should be borne -in mind that those which are not black-legged -are generally much whiter when -dressed. Pick, draw, singe, wash, and -truss them in the following manner, -without the livers in the wings; and, in -drawing, be careful not to break the -gall-bladder:—Cut off the neck, leaving -sufficient skin to skewer back. Cut the -feet off to the first joint, tuck the stumps -into a slit made on each side of the belly, -twist the wings over the back of the fowl, -and secure the top of the leg and the -bottom of the wing together by running -a skewer through them and the body. -The other side must be done in the same -manner. Should the fowl be very large -and old, draw the sinews of the legs -before tucking them in. Make a slit in -the apron of the fowl, large enough to -admit the parson’s nose, and tie a string -on the tops of the legs to keep them in -their proper place. <i>Mode.</i>—When they -are firmly trussed, put them into a stewpan -with plenty of hot water, bring it to -boil, and carefully remove all the scum -as it rises. <i>Simmer very gently</i> until the -fowl is tender, and bear in mind that the -slower it boils the plumper and whiter -will the fowl be. Many cooks wrap them -in a floured cloth to preserve the colour, -and to prevent the scum from clinging -to them; in this case, a few slices of -lemon should be placed on the breasts, -over these a sheet of buttered paper, and -then the cloth; cooking them in this -manner renders the flesh very white. -Boiled ham, bacon, boiled tongue, or -pickled pork, are the usual accompaniments -to boiled fowls, and they may be -served with Béchamel, white sauce, parsley -and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, -celery, or mushroom sauce. A little -should be poured over the fowls after the -skewers are removed, and the remainder -sent in a tureen to table. <i>Time.</i>—Large -fowl, 1 hour; moderate-sized one, ¾ hour; -chicken, from 20 minutes to ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 5<i>s.</i> the pair. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but scarce in early spring.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN BROTH.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ fowl, or the inferior -joints of a whole one; 1 quart of water, -1 blade of mace, ½ onion, a small bunch -of sweet herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns. -<i>Mode.</i>—An old fowl not suitable -for eating may be converted into very -good broth; or, if a young one be used, -the inferior joints may be put in the -broth, and the best pieces reserved for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> -dressing in some other manner. Put the -fowl into a saucepan, stew all the ingredients, -and simmer gently for 1½ hour, -carefully skimming the broth well. When -done, strain, and put by in a cool place -until wanted; then take all the fat off -the top, warm up as much as may be -required, and serve. This broth is, of -course, only for those invalids whose -stomachs are strong enough to digest it, -with a flavouring of herbs, &c. It may -be made in the same manner as beef tea, -with water and salt only, but the preparation -will be but tasteless and insipid. -When the invalid cannot digest this -chicken broth with the flavouring, we -would recommend plain beef tea in preference -to plain chicken tea, which it -would be without the addition of herbs, -onions, &c. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Sufficient</i> -to make rather more than 1 pint of broth.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN, Curried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowls, 2 large -onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful -of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful -of flour, ½ pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the onions, -peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut -the fowl into neat joints; fry these in -the butter of a nice brown, then add the -curry-powder, flour, and gravy, and stew -for about 20 minutes. Put in the lemon-juice, -and serve with boiled rice, either -placed in a ridge round the dish or separately. -Two or three shalots or a little -garlic may be added, if approved. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cold fowl, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -in the winter.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN CUTLETS (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 chickens; seasoning to -taste of salt, white pepper, and cayenne; -2 blades of pounded mace, egg and bread-crumbs, -clarified butter, 1 strip of lemon-rind, -2 carrots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls -of mushroom ketchup, thickening of butter -and flour, 1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Remove -the breast and leg-bones of the chickens; -cut the meat into neat pieces after having -skinned it, and season the cutlets with -pepper, salt, pounded mace, and cayenne. -Put the bones, trimmings, &c., into a -stewpan with 1 pint of water, adding -carrots, onions, and lemon-peel in the -above proportion; stew gently for 1½ -hour, and strain the gravy. Thicken it -with butter and flour, add the ketchup -and 1 egg well beaten; stir it over the -fire, and bring it to the simmering-point, -but do not allow it to boil. In the mean -time, egg and bread-crumb the cutlets, -and give them a few drops of clarified -butter; fry them a delicate brown, occasionally -turning them; arrange them -pyramidically on the dish, and pour over -them the sauce. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to -fry the cutlets. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient</i> for an entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> from -April to July.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN CUTLETS, French.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast or boiled -fowl, fried bread, clarified butter, the -yolk of 1 egg, bread-crumbs, ½ teaspoonful -of finely-minced lemon-peel; salt, cayenne, -and mace to taste. For sauce,—1 -oz. of butter, 2 minced shalots, a few -slices of carrot, a small bunch of savoury -herbs, including parsley, 1 blade of -pounded mace, 6 peppercorns, ½ pint of -gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowls into as -many nice cutlets as possible; take a -corresponding number of sippets about -the same size, all cut one shape; fry -them a pale brown, put them before the -fire, then dip the cutlets into clarified -butter mixed with the yolk of an egg, -cover with bread-crumbs seasoned in -the above proportion, with lemon-peel, -mace, salt, and cayenne; fry them for -about 5 minutes, put each piece on one -of the sippets, pile them high in the dish, -and serve with the following sauce, which -should be made ready for the cutlets. -Put the butter into a stewpan, add the -shalots, carrot, herbs, mace, and peppercorns; -fry for 10 minutes, or rather -longer; pour in ½ pint of good gravy, -made of the chicken-bones; stew gently -for 20 minutes, strain it, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes -to make the gravy. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the chicken, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from -April to July.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN, Fricasseed (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 small fowls or 1 large -one, 3 oz. of butter, a bunch of parsley -and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of -mace, 1 shalot, 1 bay-leaf, salt and white -pepper to taste, ¼ pint of cream, the -yolks of 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose a couple -of fat plump chickens, and, after drawing, -singeing, and washing them, skin, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> -carve them into joints; blanch these in -boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes, take -them out, and immerse them in cold -water to render them white. Put the -trimmings, with the necks and legs, into -a stewpan; add the parsley, onions, clove, -mace, shalot, bay-leaf, and a seasoning -of pepper and salt; pour to these the -water that the chickens were blanched -in, and simmer gently for rather more -than 1 hour. Have ready another stewpan; -put in the joints of fowl, with the -above proportion of butter; dredge them -with flour, let them get hot, but do not -brown them much; then moisten the -fricassee with the gravy made from the -trimmings, &c., and stew very gently for -½ hour. Lift the fowl into another stewpan, -skim the sauce, reduce it quickly -over the fire by letting it boil fast, and -strain it over them. Add the cream, -and a seasoning of pounded mace and -cayenne; let it boil up, and when ready -to serve, stir to it the well-beaten yolks -of 3 eggs; these should not be put in -till the last moment, and the sauce should -be made <i>hot</i>, but must <i>not boil</i>, or it will -instantly curdle. A few button-mushrooms -stewed with the fowl are by many -persons considered an improvement. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour to make the gravy, ½ hour -to simmer the fowl. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> -the pair. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 large fowl for -1 entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN (or Fowl) PATTIES.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast chicken or -fowl; to every ¼ lb. of meat allow 2 oz. -of ham, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls -of veal gravy, ½ teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel; cayenne, salt, -and pepper to taste; 1 tablespoonful of -lemon-juice, 1 oz. of butter rolled in flour, -puff paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince very small -the white meat from a cold roast fowl, -after removing all the skin; weigh it, -and to every ¼ lb. of meat allow the above -proportion of minced ham. Put these -into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients, -stir over the fire for 10 minutes -or ¼ hour, taking care that the mixture -does not burn. Roll out some puff paste -about ¼ inch in thickness, line the patty-pans -with this, put upon each a small -piece of bread, and cover with another -layer of paste; brush over with the yolk -of an egg, and bake in a brisk oven for -about ¼ hour. When done, cut a round -piece out of the top, and, with a small -spoon, take out the bread (be particular -in not breaking the outside border of -the crust), and fill the patties with the -mixture. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to prepare the -meat; not quite ¼ hour to bake the -crust. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN (or Fowl) PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 small fowls or 1 large -one, white pepper and salt to taste, ½ -teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, ½ teaspoonful -of pounded mace, forcemeat, a -few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, -½ pint of water, puff crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin -and cut up the fowls into joints, -and put the neck, leg, and backbones -in a stewpan, with a little water, an -onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a -blade of mace; let these stew for about -an hour, and, when done, strain off the -liquor: this is for gravy, Put a layer -of fowl at the bottom of a pie-dish, then -a layer of ham, then one of forcemeat -and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings; between -the layers put a seasoning of -pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. -Proceed in this manner until the dish is -full, and pour in about ½ pint of water; -border the edge of the dish with puff -crust, put on the cover, ornament the -top, and glaze it by brushing over it -the yolk of an egg. Bake from 1¼ to -1½ hour, should the pie be very large, -and, when done, pour in at the top the -gravy made from the bones. If to be -eaten cold, and wished particularly nice, -the joints of the fowls should be boned, -and placed in the dish with alternate -layers of forcemeat; sausage-meat may -also be substituted for the forcemeat, -and is now very much used. When the -chickens are boned, and mixed with -sausage-meat, the pie will take about -2 hours to bake. It should be covered -with a piece of paper when about half-done, -to prevent the paste being dried -up or scorched. <i>Time.</i>—For a pie with -unboned meat, 1¼ to 1½ hour; with boned -meat and sausage or forcemeat, 1½ to 2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, with 2 fowls, 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN, Potted (a Luncheon or -Breakfast Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -chicken; to every lb. of meat allow ¼ lb. -of fresh butter, salt and cayenne to taste,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> -1 teaspoonful of pounded mace, ½ small -nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Strip the meat from -the bones of cold roast fowl; when it is -freed from gristle and skin, weigh it, and -to every lb. of meat allow the above proportion -of butter, seasoning, and spices. -Cut the meat into small pieces, pound it -well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in -the spices gradually, and keep pounding -until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. -Put it into potting-pots for use, and cover -it with clarified butter, about ¼ inch in -thickness, and, if to be kept for some -time, tie over a bladder: 2 or 3 slices of -ham, minced and pounded with the above -ingredients, will be found an improvement. -It should be kept in a dry place. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHICKEN (or Fowl) SALAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -or boiled chicken, 2 lettuces, a little endive, -1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled -beetroot, salad-dressing. <i>Mode.</i>—Trim -neatly the remains of the chicken; wash, -dry, and slice the lettuces, and place in -the middle of a dish; put the pieces of -fowl on the top, and pour the salad-dressing -over them. Garnish the edge -of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in -rings, sliced cucumber, and boiled beetroot -cut in slices. Instead of cutting the -eggs in rings, the yolks may be rubbed -through a hair sieve, and the whites -chopped very finely, and arranged on the -salad in small bunches, yellow and white -alternately. This should not be made -long before it is wanted for table. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the cold chicken, -8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CHILI VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—50 fresh red English chilies, -1 pint of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pound -or cut the chilies in half, and infuse them -in the vinegar for a fortnight, when it -will be fit for use. This will be found an -agreeable relish to fish, as many people -cannot eat it without the addition of an -acid and cayenne pepper.</p> - - -<h3>CHINA CHILO.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of leg, loin, or neck -of mutton, 2 onions, 2 lettuces, 1 pint of -green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful -of pepper, ¼ pint of water, ¼ lb. -of clarified butter; when liked, a little -cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the above quantity -of undressed leg, loin, or neck of -mutton, adding a little of the fat, also -minced; put it into a stewpan with the -remaining ingredients, previously shredding -the lettuce and onion rather fine; -closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients -have been well stirred, and simmer -gently for rather more than two -hours. Serve in a dish, with a border of -rice round, the same as for curry. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than two hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from June to August.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 55px;"> -<img src="images/illus-078a.jpg" width="55" height="252" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">MILL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CHOCOLATE, to Make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Allow ½ oz. of chocolate -to each person; to every oz. allow ½ pint -of water, ½ pint of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -the milk-and-water hot; -scrape the chocolate into it, and -stir the mixture constantly and -quickly until the chocolate is dissolved; -bring it to the boiling-point, -stir it well, and serve directly -with white sugar. Chocolate -prepared within a mill, as -shown in the engraving, is made -by putting in the scraped chocolate, -pouring over it the boiling -milk-and-water, and milling it -over the fire until hot and frothy. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow ½ oz. of cake -chocolate to each person.</p> - - - -<h3>CHOCOLATE CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of grated chocolate, -¼ lb. of sugar, 1½ pint of cream, 1½ oz. of -clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Beat the yolks of the eggs well, -put them into a basin with the grated -chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the -cream; stir these ingredients well together, -pour them into a jug, and set this -jug in a saucepan of boiling water; stir -it one way until the mixture thickens, -but <i>do not allow it to boil</i>, or it will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> -curdle. Strain the cream through a sieve -into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the -other ½ pint of cream, which should be -well whipped; mix all well together, and -pour it into a mould which has been previously -oiled with the purest salad-oil, -and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted -for table. <i>Time.</i>—About 10 minutes to -stir the mixture over the fire. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint. -<i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 288px;"> -<img src="images/illus-078b.jpg" width="288" height="196" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CREAM-MOULD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of -pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of flour, -3 oz. of the best chocolate. <i>Mode.</i>—Break -the eggs, separating the whites -from the yolks, and put them into different -basins; add to the yolks the -sugar, flour, and chocolate, which should -be very finely grated, and stir these ingredients -for 5 minutes. Then well whisk -the whites of the eggs in the other basin -until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix -lightly with the yolks till the whole forms -a smooth and light substance; butter a -round cake-tin, put in the mixture, and -bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 -minutes. Pin a white napkin round the -tin, strew sifted sugar over the top of the -soufflé, and send it immediately to table. -The proper appearance of this dish depends -entirely on the expedition with -which it is served; and some cooks, to -preserve its lightness, hold a salamander -over the soufflé until it is placed on the -table. If allowed to stand after it comes -from the oven it will be entirely spoiled, -as it falls almost immediately. <i>Time.</i>—15 -to 20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a moderate-sized soufflé. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CLARET-CUP.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 183px;"> -<img src="images/illus-079.jpg" width="183" height="195" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CLARET-CUP.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle -of soda-water, about ½ lb. of pounded ice, -4 tablespoonfuls of -powdered sugar, -¼ teaspoonful of -grated nutmeg, 1 -liqueur-glass of -Maraschino, a -sprig of green borage. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients -into a silver cup, -regulating the proportion -of ice by -the state of the weather; if very warm, -a larger quantity would be necessary. -Hand the cup round with a clean napkin -passed through one of the handles, -that the edge of the cup may be -wiped after each guest has partaken -of the contents thereof. <i>Seasonable</i> in -summer.</p> - - -<h3>COCK-A-LEEKIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A capon or large fowl -(sometimes an old cock, from which the -recipe takes its name, is used), which -should be trussed as for boiling, 2 or 3 -bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock -(<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#STOCKS">Stock</a></span>), pepper and salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Well wash the leeks (and, if old, -scald them in boiling water for a few -minutes), taking off the roots and part -of the heads, and cut them into lengths -of about an inch. Put the fowl into the -stock, with, at first, one half of the leeks, -and allow it to simmer gently. In half -an hour add the remaining leeks, and -then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours -longer. It should be carefully skimmed, -and can be seasoned to taste. In serving, -take out the fowl and carve it neatly, -placing the pieces in a tureen, and pouring -over them the soup, which should be -very thick of leeks (a <i>purée</i> of leeks, the -French would call it). <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart; or with -stock, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Without the fowl, the above, -which would then be merely called leek -soup, is very good, and also economical. -Cock-a-leekie was largely consumed at -the Burns Centenary Festival at the -Crystal Palace, Sydenham, in 1859.</p> - - -<h3>COCOA, to Make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of -the prepared cocoa to 1 breakfast-cup; -boiling milk and boiling water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour -over it sufficient cold milk to make it -into a smooth paste; then add equal -quantities of boiling milk and boiling -water, and stir all well together. Care -must be taken not to allow the milk to -get burnt, as it will entirely spoil the -flavour of the preparation. The above -directions are usually given for making -the prepared cocoa. The rock cocoa, or -that bought in a solid piece, should be -scraped, and made in the same manner, -taking care to rub down all the lumps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> -before the boiling liquid is added. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 -teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa -for 1 breakfast-cup, or ¼ oz. of the rock -cocoa for the same quantity.</p> - - -<h3>COD.</h3> - -<p>Cod should be chosen for the table -when it is plump and round near the tail, -when the hollow behind the head is deep, -and when the sides are undulated as if -they were ribbed. The glutinous parts -about the head lose their delicate flavour -after the fish has been twenty-four hours -out of the water. The great point by -which the cod should be judged is the -firmness of its flesh; and, although the -cod is not firm when it is alive, its quality -may be arrived at by pressing the finger -into the flesh: if this rises immediately, -the flesh is good; if not, it is stale. -Another sign of its goodness is, if the -fish, when it is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, -like the silver side of a round of -beef; when this is the case the flesh will -be firm when cooked. Stiffness in a cod, -or in any other fish, is a sure sign of -freshness, though not always of quality. -Sometimes codfish, though exhibiting -signs of rough usage, will eat much better -than those with red gills, so strongly -recommended by many cookery-books. -This appearance is generally caused by -the fish having been knocked about at -sea, in the well-boats, in which they are -conveyed from the fishing-grounds to -market.</p> - - -<h3>COD à la BÉCHAMEL.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Any -remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls -of béchamel (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#BECHAMEL_or_French_White_Sauce">Béchamel Sauce</a></span>), 2 oz. -of butter; seasoning to taste of pepper -and salt; fried bread, a few bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Flake the cod carefully, leaving -out all skin and bone; put the béchamel -in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it -over the fire till the latter is melted; add -seasoning, put in the fish, and mix it -well with the sauce. Make a border of -fried bread round the dish, lay in the -fish, sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, -and baste with butter. Brown either -before the fire or with a salamander, and -garnish with toasted bread cut in fanciful -shapes. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the fish, 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>COD à la CREME.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—1 -large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, -1 chopped shalot, a little minced parsley, -¼ teacupful of white stock, ¼ pint of milk -or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and -lemon-juice to taste, ¼ teaspoonful of -powdered sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the cod, -and while hot, break it into flakes; put -the butter, shalot, parsley, and stock into -a stewpan, and let them boil for 5 minutes. -Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, -and pour to it the milk or cream. Simmer -for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and -sugar, and, when liked, a little lemon-juice. -Put the fish in the sauce to warm -gradually, but do not let it boil. Serve -in a dish garnished with croûtons. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, with cream, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to -March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of fish from the -preceding day answer very well for this -dish.</p> - - -<h3>COD à l’ITALIENNE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 slices of crimped cod, -1 shalot, 1 slice of ham minced very fine, -½ pint of white stock, when liked, ½ teacupful -of cream; salt to taste; a few -drops of garlic vinegar, a little lemon-juice, -½ teaspoonful of powdered sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Chop the shalots, mince the ham -very fine, pour on the stock, and simmer -for 15 minutes. If the colour should not -be good, add cream in the above proportion, -and strain it through a fine -sieve; season it, and put in the vinegar, -lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil the -cod, take out the middle bone, and skin -it; put it on the dish without breaking, -and pour the sauce over it. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, with fresh -fish. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from November to March.</p> - - -<h3>COD à la MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—2 -slices of cod, ¼ lb. of butter, a little -chopped shalot and parsley; pepper to -taste; ¼ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, -or rather less when the flavour is not -liked; the juice of ¼ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the cod, and either leave it whole, -or, what is still better, flake it from the -bone, and take off the skin. Put it into -a stewpan with the butter, parsley, shalot, -pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the butter -gradually, and be very careful that it -does not become like oil. When all is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> -well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the -lemon-juice, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; with remains of -cold fish, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Cod that has been left will do -for this.</p> - - -<h3>COD, Curried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—2 -slices of large cod, or the remains of -any cold fish; 3 oz. of butter, 1 onion -sliced, a teacupful of white stock, thickening -of butter and flour, 1 <i>small</i> teaspoonful -of curry-powder, ¼ pint of cream, -salt and cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Flake -the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour -with the butter and onions; put this in -a stewpan, add the stock and thickening, -and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder -into the cream; put it, with the -seasoning, to the other ingredients; give -one boil, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, with fresh fish, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -November to March.</p> - - -<h3>COD PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 slices of cod; pepper -and salt to taste; ½ a teaspoonful of -grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded -mace, 2 oz. of butter, ½ pint of stock, a -paste crust (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#PASTE_Common">Pastry</a></span>). For sauce,—1 -tablespoonful of stock, ¼ pint of cream -or milk, thickening of flour or butter, -lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste, -12 oysters. <i>Mode.</i>—Lay the cod in salt -for 4 hours, then wash it and place it -in a dish; season, and add the butter -and stock; cover with the crust, and -bake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now -make the sauce, by mixing the ingredients -named above; give it one boil, -and pour it into the pie by a hole made -at the top of the crust, which can easily -be covered by a small piece of pastry cut -and baked in any fanciful shape,—such -as a leaf, or otherwise. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, with fresh fish, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -November to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of cold fish may -be used for this pie.</p> - - -<h3>COD PIE. (Economical.)</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Any -remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, -sufficient melted butter to moisten it; -mashed potatoes enough to fill up the -dish. <i>Mode.</i>—Flake the fish from the -bone, and carefully take away all the -skin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the -melted butter and oysters (or oyster -sauce, if there is any left), and cover -with mashed potatoes. Bake for ½ an -hour, and send to table of a nice brown -colour. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from -November to March.</p> - - -<h3>COD, Salt, commonly called “Salt-fish.”</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient water to cover -the fish. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the fish, and -lay it all night in water, with a ¼ pint -of vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, -take it out, see that it is perfectly clean, -and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient -cold water to cover it. Heat it -gradually, but do not let it boil much, or -the fish will be hard. Skim well, and -when done, drain the fish, and put it on -a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs -cut in rings. <i>Time.</i>—About 1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -each person, ¼ lb. <i>Seasonable</i> in the -spring.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. -This is an especial dish on Ash -Wednesday.</p> - - -<h3>COD SOUNDS</h3> - -<p>Should be well soaked in salt and -water, and thoroughly washed before -dressing them. They are considered a -great delicacy, and may either be broiled, -fried, or boiled; if they are boiled, mix -a little milk with the water.</p> - - -<h3>COD SOUNDS, en Poule.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For forcemeat, 12 chopped -oysters, 3 chopped anchovies, ¼ lb. -of bread-crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, -seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and -mace to taste; 4 cod sounds. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients -well together. Wash the sounds, -and boil them in milk and water for ½ an -hour; take them out, and let them cool. -Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, -roll them up in a nice form, and skewer -them. Rub over with lard, dredge with -flour, and cook them gently before the -fire in a Dutch oven. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>COD’S HEAD & SHOULDERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient water to cover -the fish; 5 oz. of salt to each gallon of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse the fish thoroughly, -and rub a little salt over the -thick part and inside of the fish 1 or 2 -hours before dressing it, as this very -much improves the flavour. Lay it in -the fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water -to cover it. Be very particular not to -pour the water on the fish, as it is liable -to break it, and only keep it just simmering. -If the water should boil away, add -a little by pouring it in at the side of -the kettle, and not on the fish. Add -salt in the above proportion, and bring -it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, -draw it to the side of the fire, and -let it gently simmer till done. Take it -out and drain it; serve on a hot napkin, -and garnish with cut lemon and horseradish. -<i>Time.</i>—According to size, ½ an -hour, more or less. <i>Average cost</i>, from -3<i>s.</i> to 6<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Oyster sauce and plain melted -butter should be served with this.</p> - - -<h3>COD’S HEAD & SHOULDERS, -to Carve.</h3> - -<p>First run the knife along the centre of -the side of the fish, namely, from <i>d</i> to <i>b</i>, -down to the bone; then carve it in unbroken -slices downwards from <i>d</i> to <i>e</i>, or -upwards from <i>d</i> to <i>c</i>, as shown in the -engraving. The carver should ask the -guests if they would like a portion of the -roe and liver.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 358px;"> -<img src="images/illus-082.jpg" width="358" height="188" alt="diagram of fish head and start of body" /> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Of this fish, the parts about the -backbone and shoulders are the firmest -and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The -sound, which lines the fish beneath the -backbone, is considered a delicacy, as -are also the gelatinous parts about the -head and neck.</p> - - -<h3>COFFEE, Essence of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every ¼ lb. of ground -coffee allow 1 small teaspoonful of powdered -chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or -1 pint, of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the coffee -be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly -roasted; put it into a percolater, or filter, -with the chicory, and pour <i>slowly</i> over it -the above proportion of boiling water. -When it has all filtered through, warm -the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the -simmering-point, but do not allow it to -boil; then filter it a second time, put it -into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, -and it will remain good for several days. -Two tablespoonfuls of this essence are -quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of -hot milk. This essence will be found -particularly useful to those persons who -have to rise extremely early; and having -only the milk to make boiling, is very -easily and quickly prepared. When the -essence is bottled, pour another 3 teacupfuls -of <i>boiling</i> water slowly on the -grounds, which, when filtered through, -will be a very weak coffee. The next -time there is essence to be prepared, -make this weak coffee boiling, and pour -it on the ground coffee instead of plain -water: by this means a better coffee -will be obtained. Never throw away the -grounds without having made use of them -in this manner; and always cork the -bottle well that contains this preparation, -until the day that it is wanted for -making the fresh essence. <i>Time.</i>—To -be filtered once, then brought to the -boiling-point, and filtered again. <i>Average -cost</i>, with coffee at 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> per lb., 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a -breakfast-cupful of hot milk.</p> - - -<h3>COFFEE, Nutritious.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ oz. of ground coffee, 1 -pint of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the coffee be -freshly ground; put it into a saucepan -with the milk, which should be made -nearly boiling before the coffee is put in, -and boil together for 3 minutes; clear it -by pouring some of it into a cup, and -then back again, and leave it on the hob -for a few minutes to settle thoroughly. -This coffee may be made still more nutritious -by the addition of an egg well -beaten, and put into the coffee-cup. -<i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to -settle. <i>Sufficient</i> to make 1 large breakfast-cupful -of coffee.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>COFFEE, Simple Method of -Making.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Allow ½ oz., or 1 tablespoonful, -of coffee to each person; to -every oz. allow ½ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -a small iron ring made to fit the -top of the coffee-pot inside, and to this -ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin -for the purpose must not be too thin). -Fit the bag into the pot, warm the pot -with some boiling water; throw this -away, and put the ground coffee into the -bag; pour over as much boiling water as -is required, close the lid, and, when all -the water has filtered through, remove -the bag, and send the coffee to table. -Making it in this manner prevents the -necessity of pouring the coffee from one -vessel to another, which cools and spoils -it. The water should be poured on the -coffee gradually, so that the infusion -may be stronger; and the bag must be -well made, that none of the grounds may -escape through the seams, and so make -the coffee thick and muddy. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 tablespoonful, or ½ oz., to each -person.</p> - - -<h3>COFFEE, to Make.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 320px;"> -<img src="images/illus-083.jpg" width="320" height="287" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LOYSEL’S HYDROSTATIC URN.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Allow ½ oz., or 1 tablespoonful, -of ground coffee to each person; -to every oz. of coffee allow 1/3 pint -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—To make coffee good, -<i>it should never be boiled</i>, but the boiling -water merely poured on it, the same as -for tea. The coffee should always be -purchased in the berry,—if possible, -freshly roasted; and it should never be -ground long before it is wanted for use. -There are very many new kinds of coffee-pots, -but the method of making the -coffee is nearly always the same, namely, -pouring the boiling water on the powder, -and allowing it to filter through. Our -illustration shows one of Loysel’s Hydrostatic -Urns, which are admirably adapted -for making good and clear coffee, which -should be made in the following manner:—Warm -the urn with boiling water, -remove the lid and movable filter, and -place the ground coffee at the bottom of -the urn. Put the movable filter over -this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly -on the end of the centre pipe. Pour into -the inverted lid the above proportion of -boiling water, and when all the water so -poured has disappeared from the funnel, -and made its way down the centre pipe -and up again through the ground coffee -by <i>hydrostatic pressure</i>, unscrew the lid -and cover the urn. Pour back direct -into the urn, <i>not through the funnel</i>, one, -two, or three cups, according to the size -of the percolater, in order to make the -infusion of uniform strength; the contents -will then be ready for use, and -should run from the tap strong, hot, and -clear. The coffee made in these urns -generally turns out very good, and there -is but one objection to them,—the coffee -runs rather slowly from the tap; this is -of no consequence where there is a small -party, but tedious where there are many -persons to provide for. A remedy for -this objection may be suggested, namely, -to make the coffee very strong, so that -not more than 1/3 cup would be required, -as the rest would be filled up with milk. -Making coffee in filters or percolaters -does away with the necessity of using -isinglass, white of egg, and various other -preparations, to clear it. Coffee should -always be served very hot, and, if possible, -in the same vessel in which it is -made, as pouring it from one pot to -another cools, and consequently spoils -it. Many persons may think that the -proportion of water we have given for -each oz. of coffee is rather small; it is -so, and the coffee produced from it will -be very strong; 1/3 of a cup will be found -quite sufficient, which should be filled -with nice hot milk, or milk and cream -mixed. This is the <i>café au lait</i> for which -our neighbours over the Channel are so -justly celebrated. Should the ordinary -method of making coffee be preferred, -use double the quantity of water, and, -in pouring it into the cups, put in more -coffee and less milk. <i>Sufficient.</i>—For -very good coffee, allow ½ oz., or 1 tablespoonful, -to each person.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>COFFEE, to Roast. (A French -Recipe.)</h3> - -<p>It being an acknowledged fact that -French coffee is decidedly superior to -that made in England, and as the roasting -of the berry is of great importance -to the flavour of the preparation, it will -be useful and interesting to know how -they manage these things in France. In -Paris, there are two houses justly celebrated -for the flavour of their coffee,—<i>La -Maison Corcellet</i> and <i>La Maison -Royer de Chartres</i>; and to obtain this -flavour before roasting, they add to every -3 lbs. of coffee a piece of butter the size -of a nut, and a dessertspoonful of powdered -sugar: it is then roasted in the -usual manner. The addition of the butter -and sugar develops the flavour and -aroma of the berry; but it must be borne -in mind, that the quality of the butter -must be of the very best description.</p> - - -<h3>COLLOPS, Scotch.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast veal, a little -butter, flour, ½ pint of water, 1 onion, -1 blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon-juice, 1-2 teaspoonful of finely-minced -lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of -sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom -ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the veal the same -thickness as for cutlets, rather larger -than a crown piece; flour the meat well, -and fry a light brown in butter; dredge -again with flour, and add ½ pint of water, -pouring it in by degrees; set it on the -fire, and when it boils, add the onion and -mace, and let it simmer very gently about -¾ hour; flavour the gravy with lemon-juice, -peel, wine, and ketchup, in the -above proportion; give one boil, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - - -<h3>COLLOPS, Scotch, White.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast veal, ½ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg, 2 blades of -pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, -a little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, -¼ pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy -sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -¼ teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful -of mushroom ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls -of cream, 1 tablespoonful of -sherry. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the veal into thin -slices about 3 inches in width; hack them -with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, -mace, cayenne, and salt, and fry -them in a little butter. Dish them, and -make a gravy in the pan by putting in -the remaining ingredients. Give one -boil, and pour it over the collops; garnish -with lemon and slices of toasted -bacon, rolled. Forcemeat balls may be -added to this dish. If cream is not at -hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten -up well with a little milk. <i>Time.</i>—About -5 or 7 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> from May to -October.</p> - - -<h3>COMPÔTE.</h3> - -<p>A confiture made at the moment of -need, and with much less sugar than -would be ordinarily put to preserves. -They are very wholesome things, suitable -to most stomachs which cannot accommodate -themselves to raw fruit or a -large portion of sugar: they are the -happy medium, and far better than ordinary -stewed fruit. For Fruit Compôtes -refer to the recipes relating to the various -Fruits.</p> - - -<h3>CONFECTIONARY.</h3> - -<p>In speaking of confectionary, it should -be remarked that many preparations -come under that head; for the various -fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, -which, when boiled with sugar, were formerly -employed in pharmacy as well as -for sweetmeats, were called <i>confections</i>, -from the Latin word <i>conficere</i>, ‘to make -up;’ but the term confectionary embraces -a very large class indeed of sweet food, -many kinds of which should not be attempted -in the ordinary cuisine. The -thousand and one ornamental dishes that -adorn the tables of the wealthy should -be purchased from the confectioner: they -cannot profitably be made at home. -Apart from these, cakes, biscuits, and -tarts, &c., the class of sweetmeats called -confections may be thus classified:—1. -Liquid confects, or fruits either whole -or in pieces, preserved by being immersed -in a fluid transparent syrup; as -the liquid confects of apricots, green -citrons, and many foreign fruits. 2. Dry -confects are those which, after having -been boiled in the syrup, are taken out -and put to dry in an oven, as citron and -orange-peel, &c. 3. Marmalade, jams, -and pastes, a kind of soft compounds -made of the pulp of fruits or other vegetable -substances, beat up with sugar or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> -honey; such as oranges, apricots, pears, -&c. 4. Jellies are the juices of fruits -boiled with sugar to a pretty thick consistency, -so as, upon cooling, to form a -trembling jelly; as currant, gooseberry, -apple jelly, &c. 5. Conserves are a kind -of dry confects, made by beating up -flowers, fruits, &c., with sugar, not dissolved. -6. Candies are fruits candied -over with sugar after having been boiled -in the syrup.</p> - - -<h3>COW-HEEL, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 -egg, bread-crumbs, parsley, salt and -cayenne to taste, boiling butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash, -scald, and thoroughly clean the -feet, and cut them into pieces about -2 inches long; have ready some fine -bread-crumbs mixed with a little minced -parsley, cayenne, and salt; dip the -pieces of heel into the yolk of egg, -sprinkle them with the bread-crumbs, -and fry them until of a nice brown in -boiling butter. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Ox-feet maybe dressed in various -ways, stewed in gravy or plainly -boiled and served with melted butter. -When plainly boiled, the liquor will answer -for making sweet or relishing jellies, -and also to give richness to soups -or gravies.</p> - - -<h3>COW-HEEL STOCK, for Jellies -(More Economical than Calf’s-Feet).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure 2 heels that -have only been scalded, and not boiled; -split them in two, and remove the fat -between the claws; wash them well in -warm water, and put them into a saucepan -with the above proportion of cold -water; bring it gradually to boil, remove -all the scum as it rises, and simmer -the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or -until the liquor is reduced one-half; then -strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity, -and put it in a cool place. Clarify -it in the same manner as calf’s-feet stock, -using, with the other ingredients, about -½ oz. of isinglass to each quart. This -stock should be made the day before it -is required for use. Two dozen shank-bones -of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7 hours, -yield a quart of strong firm stock. They -should be put on in 2 quarts of water, -which should be reduced one-half. Make -this also the day before it is required. -<i>Time.</i>—7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, -6 to 7 hours to boil the shank-bones. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 4<i>d.</i> to 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 -cow-heels should make 3 pints -of stock. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>COWSLIP WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every gallon of water -allow 3 lbs. of lump sugar, the rind of -2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and -juice of 1 Seville orange, 1 gallon of cowslip -pips. To every 4½ gallons of wine -allow 1 bottle of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the sugar and water together for ½ hour, -carefully removing all the scum as it -rises. Pour this boiling liquor on the -orange and lemon-rinds and the juice, -which should be strained; when milk-warm, -add the cowslip pips or flowers, -picked from the stalks and seeds; and -to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of -good fresh brewers’ yeast. Let it ferment -3 or 4 days, then put all together -in a cask with the brandy, and let it -remain for 2 months, when bottle it off -for use. <i>Time.</i>—To be boiled ½ hour; -to ferment 3 or 4 days; to remain in the -cask 2 months. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cowslips, which may be picked in -the fields, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per gallon. <i>Seasonable.</i> -Make this in April or May.</p> - - -<h3>CRAB, to Choose.</h3> - -<p>The middle-sized crab is the best; and -the crab, like the lobster, should be -judged by its weight; for if light, it is -watery.</p> - - -<h3>CRAB, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls -of vinegar, 1 ditto of oil; salt, white -pepper, and cayenne, to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Empty -the shells, and thoroughly mix -the meat with the above ingredients, and -put it in the large shell. Garnish with -slices of cut lemon and parsley. The quantity -of oil may be increased when it -is much liked. <i>Average cost</i>, from 10<i>d.</i> -to 2<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> all the year; but not -so good in May, June, and July. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 3 persons.</p> - - -<h3>CRAB, Hot.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 crab, nutmeg, salt and -pepper to taste, 3 oz. of butter, ¼ lb. of -bread-crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—After having boiled the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> -crab, pick the meat out from the shells, -and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. -Cut up the butter in small pieces, -and add the bread-crumbs and vinegar. -Mix altogether, put the whole in the large -shell, and brown before the fire or with -a salamander. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 10<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 persons, -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year; but not -so good in May, June, and July.</p> - - -<h3>CRAB SAUCE, for Fish (equal to -Lobster Sauce).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 crab; salt, pounded -mace, and cayenne to taste; ½ pint of -melted butter made with milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -a nice fresh crab, pick all the -meat away from the shell, and cut it into -small square pieces. Make ½ pint of -melted butter, put in the fish and seasoning; -let it gradually warm through, -and simmer for 2 minutes: it should not -boil. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>CRAYFISH.</h3> - -<p>Crayfish should be thrown into boiling -water, to which has been added a good -seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. -When done, which will be in ¼ hour, -take them out and drain them. Let -them cool, arrange them on a napkin, -and garnish with plenty of double parsley.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This fish is frequently used for -garnishing boiled turkey, boiled fowl, -calf’s head, turbot, and all kinds of boiled -fish.</p> - - -<h3>CRAYFISH, Potted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—100 crayfish; pounded -mace, pepper, and salt to taste; 2 oz. -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the fish in salt and -water, pick out all the meat, and pound -it in a mortar to a paste. Whilst pounding, -add the butter gradually, and mix -in the spice and seasoning. Put it in -small pots, and pour over it clarified -butter, carefully excluding the air. <i>Time.</i>—15 -minutes to boil the crayfish. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>CRAYFISH SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—50 crayfish, ¼ lb. of butter, -6 anchovies, the crumb of 1 French -roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to -taste, 2 quarts of medium stock, or fish -stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Shell the crayfish, and -put the fish between two plates until they -are wanted; pound the shells in a mortar -with the butter and anchovies; when -well beaten, add a pint of stock, and -simmer for ¾ of an hour. Strain it through -a hair sieve, put the remainder of the -stock to it, with the crumb of the roll; -give it one boil, and rub it through a -tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put in -the fish, but do not let the soup boil -after it has been rubbed through the -tammy. If necessary, add seasoning. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> or -1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from January to July.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM à la VALOIS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 sponge-cakes, jam, ¾ -pint of cream, sugar to taste, the juice -of ½ lemon, ¼ glass of sherry, 1¼ oz. of -isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the sponge-cakes -into thin slices, place two together with -preserve between them, and pour over -them a small quantity of sherry mixed -with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour -the cream with the lemon-juice and -sherry; add the isinglass, which should -be dissolved in a little water, and beat -up the cream well. Place a little in an -oiled mould; arrange the pieces of cake -in the cream, then fill the mould with -the remainder, let it cool, and turn it out -on a dish. By oiling the mould the -cream will have a much smoother appearance, -and will turn out more easily than -when merely dipped in cold water. <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a 1½ pint -mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM CHEESE.</h3> - -<p>Cream cheese should be served on a -d’oyley, and garnished either with water-cresses -or parsley; of the former, a plentiful -supply should be given, as they add -greatly to the appearance of the dish, -besides improving the flavour of the -cheese.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM, Devonshire.</h3> - -<p>The milk should stand 24 hours in the -winter, half that time when the weather -is very warm. The milkpan is then set -on a stove, and should there remain until -the milk is quite hot; but it must not -boil, or there will be a thick skin on the -surface. When it is sufficiently done -the undulations on the surface look thick, -and small rings appear. The time required -for scalding cream depends on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> -the size of the pan and the heat of the -fire, but the slower it is done the better. -The pan should be placed in the dairy -when the cream is sufficiently scalded, -and skimmed the following day. This -cream is so much esteemed that it is sent -to the London markets in small square -tins, and is exceedingly delicious eaten -with fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter -is made from this cream, and is usually -very firm.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM, Italian.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of milk, ½ pint of -cream, sugar to taste, 1 oz. of isinglass, -1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the cream and milk into a saucepan, -with sugar to sweeten, and the lemon-rind. -Boil until the milk is well flavoured, -then strain it into a basin and -add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this -mixture into a jug, place the jug in a -saucepan of boiling water over the fire, -and stir the contents until they thicken, -but do not allow them to boil. Take the -cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice -and isinglass, which should be melted, -and whip well; fill a mould, place it in -ice if at hand, and, when set, turn it out -on a dish, and garnish as taste may dictate. -The mixture may be whipped and -drained, and then put into small glasses, -when this mode of serving is preferred. -<i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the -mixture in the jug. <i>Average cost</i>, with -the best isinglass, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -fill 1½ pint mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM SAUCE, for Fish or White -Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. of -butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, salt and -cayenne to taste; when liked, a small -quantity of pounded mace or lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter in a very clean -saucepan, dredge in the flour, and keep -shaking round till the butter is melted. -Add the seasoning and cream, and stir -the whole till it boils; let it just simmer -for 5 minutes, when add either pounded -mace or lemon-juice to taste to give it a -flavour. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 7<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This sauce may be flavoured -with very finely-shredded shalot.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM, Stone, of tous les Mois.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of preserve, 1 pint -of milk, 2 oz. of lump sugar, 1 heaped -tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of -essence of cloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring. -<i>Mode.</i>—Place the preserve -at the bottom of a glass dish; put the -milk into a lined saucepan, with the -sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smooth -batter the tous les mois with a very little -cold milk; stir it briskly into the boiling -milk, add the flavouring, and simmer -for 2 minutes. When rather cool, but -before turning solid, pour the cream over -the jam, and ornament it with strips of -red-currant jelly or preserved fruit. <i>Time.</i>—2 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM, Swiss.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of macaroons or 6 -small sponge-cakes, sherry, 1 pint of -cream, 5 oz. of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls -of arrowroot, the rind of 1 -lemon, the juice of ½ lemon, 3 tablespoonfuls -of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Lay the macaroons -or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, -and pour over them as much sherry as -will cover them, or sufficient to soak them -well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, -with the sugar and lemon-rind, and -let it remain by the side of the fire until -the cream is well flavoured, when take -out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot -smoothly with the cold milk; add this to -the cream, and let it boil gently for about -3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take -it off the fire, stir till nearly cold, when -add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole -over the cakes. Garnish the cream with -strips of angelica, or candied citron cut -thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. -This cream is exceedingly delicious, flavoured -with vanilla instead of lemon: -when this flavouring is used the sherry -may be omitted, and the mixture poured -over the <i>dry</i> cakes. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour -to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to -boil the cream. <i>Average cost</i>, with cream -at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM, Vanilla.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 245px;"> -<img src="images/illus-088a.jpg" width="245" height="214" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">VANILLA-CREAM MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of milk, the yolks -of 8 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of isinglass, -flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk and sugar into a -saucepan, and let it get hot over a slow -fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to -which add gradually the sweetened milk;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> -flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, -put the mixture into a jug, and place this -jug in a saucepan of boiling water. Stir -the contents with a wooden spoon one -way until the mixture thickens, but do -not allow -it to boil, -or it will -be full -of lumps. -Take it off -the fire; -stir in the -isinglass, -which -should be -previously -dissolved -in about ¼ pint of water, and boiled for -2 or 3 minutes; pour the cream into an -oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, -and turn it out carefully on a dish. Instead -of using the essence of vanilla, a -pod may be boiled in the milk until -the flavour is well extracted. A pod, -or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient -for the above proportion of ingredients. -<i>Time.</i>—About 10 minutes to -stir the mixture. <i>Average cost</i>, with the -best isinglass, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a -quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CREAM, Whipped, for putting on -Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of cream -allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 glass of -sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, -the rind of ½ lemon, the white of 1 egg. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, -and pound it in a mortar until -quite fine, and beat up the white of the -egg until quite stiff; put the cream into -a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and -beaten egg, and whip it to a froth; as -fast as the froth rises take it off with a -skimmer, and put it on a sieve to drain -in a cool place. This should be made the -day before it is wanted, as the whip is -then so much firmer. The cream should -be whipped in a cool place, and in summer -over ice, if it is obtainable. A plain -whipped cream may be served on a glass -dish, and garnished with strips of angelica, -or pastry-leaves, or pieces of bright-coloured -jelly: it makes a very pretty -addition to the supper-table. <i>Time.</i>—About -1 hour to whip the cream. <i>Average -cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 1 dish or 1 trifle. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 261px;"> -<img src="images/illus-088b.jpg" width="261" height="148" alt="leaf cookie cutter" /> -<div class="caption">PASTRY-LEAF.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CRUMPETS.</h3> - -<p>These are made in the same manner as -muffins, only, in making the mixture, -let it be more like batter than dough. -Let it rise for about ½ hour; pour it into -iron rings, which should be ready on a -hot-plate; bake them, and when one side -appears done, turn them quickly on the -other. <i>To toast them</i>, have ready a very -<i>bright clear</i> fire; put the crumpet on a -toasting-fork, and hold it before the fire, -<i>not too close</i>, until it is nicely brown on -one side, but do not allow it to blacken; -turn it, and brown the other side; then -spread it with good butter, cut it in half, -and, when all are done, pile them on a -hot dish, and send them quickly to table. -Muffins and crumpets should always be -served on separate dishes, and both -toasted and served as expeditiously as -possible. <i>Time.</i>—From 10 to 15 minutes -to bake them. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2 crumpets -to each person.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Butter, for Boiled Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -6 oz. of butter, ½ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—With a knife, work the flour to -a smooth paste with ½ pint of water; roll -the crust out rather thin; place the -butter over it in small pieces, dredge -lightly over it some flour, and fold the -paste over; repeat the rolling once more, -and the crust will be ready for use. It -may be enriched by adding another -2 oz. of butter; but, for ordinary purposes, -the above quantity will be found -quite sufficient. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Common, for Raised Pies.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -½ pint of water, 1½ oz. of butter, -1½ oz. of lard, ½ saltspoonful of salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put into a saucepan the water; -when it boils, add the butter and lard, -and when these are melted, make a hole<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> -in the middle of the flour; pour in the -water gradually, beat it well with a -wooden spoon, and be particular in not -making the paste too soft. When it is -well mixed, knead it with the hands -until quite stiff, dredging a little flour -over the paste and board to prevent them -from sticking. When it is well kneaded, -place it before the fire, with a cloth -covered over it, for a few minutes; it will -then be more easily worked into shape. -This paste does not taste so nicely as -a richer one, but it is worked with -greater facility, and answers just as well -for raised pies, for the crust is seldom -eaten. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Dripping, for Kitchen Puddings, -Pies, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -6 oz. of clarified beef dripping, ½ pint -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—After having clarified -the dripping, weigh it, and to every lb. -of flour allow the above proportion of -dripping. With a knife, work the flour -into a smooth paste with the water, rolling -it out three times, each time placing -on the crust 2 oz. of the dripping broken -into small pieces. If this paste is lightly -made, if good dripping is used, and <i>not -too much of it</i>, it will be found good; and -by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of -fine moist sugar, it may be converted -into a common short crust for fruit pies. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Lard or Flead.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -½ lb. of lard or flead, ½ pint of water, -½ saltspoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Clear the -flead from skin, and slice it into thin -flakes; rub it into the flour, add the -salt, and work the whole into a smooth -paste, with the above proportion of -water; fold the paste over two or three -times, beat it well with the rolling-pin, -roll it out, and it will be ready for use. -The crust made from this will be found -extremely light, and may be made into -cakes or tarts; it may also be very much -enriched by adding more flead to the -same proportion of flour. <i>Average cost</i>, -8<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Suet, for Pies or Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -5 or 6 oz. of beef suet, ½ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Free the suet from skin and -shreds, chop it extremely fine, and rub -it well into the flour; work the whole -to a smooth paste with the above proportion -of water; roll it out, and it is ready -for use. This crust is quite rich enough -for ordinary purposes, but when a better -one is desired, use from ½ to ¾ lb. of suet -to every lb. of flour. Some cooks, for -rich crusts, pound the suet in a mortar, -with a small quantity of butter. It should -then be laid on the paste in small pieces, -the same as for puff-crust, and will be -found exceedingly nice for hot tarts. -5 oz. of suet to every lb. of flour will -make a very good crust; and even ¼ lb, -will answer very well for children, or -where the crust is wanted very plain. -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Common Short.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -2 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 oz. of butter, -about ½ pint of boiling milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Crumble -the butter into the flour as -finely as possible, add the sugar, and -work the whole up to a smooth paste -with the boiling milk. Roll it out thin, -and bake in a moderate oven. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3><a id="CRUST_Very_good_Short_for_Fruit_Tarts"></a>CRUST, Very good Short for Fruit -Tarts.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -½ or ¾ lb. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of -sifted sugar, 1/3 pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub -the butter into the flour, after having -ascertained that the latter is perfectly -dry; add the sugar, and mix the whole -into a stiff paste with about 1/3 pint of -water. Roll it out two or three times, -folding the paste over each time, and it -will be ready for use. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i> -per lb.</p> - - -<h3>CRUST, Another good Short.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -8 oz. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, -2 oz. of sifted sugar, about ¼ pint of milk. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the butter into the flour, add -the sugar, and mix the whole as lightly -as possible to a smooth paste, with the -yolks of the eggs well beaten, and the -milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient -must be judged of by the size -of the eggs; if these are large so much -will not be required, and more if the -eggs are smaller. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBER SAUCE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. -of butter, 6 tablespoonfuls of brown -gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the cucumbers, -quarter them, and take out the seeds; -cut them into small pieces, put them in -a cloth, and rub them well to take out -the water that hangs about them. Put -the butter in a saucepan, add the cucumbers, -and shake them over a sharp -fire until they are of a good colour; then -pour over them the gravy, mixed with the -cucumbers, and simmer gently for 10 -minutes, when it will be ready to serve. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBER SAUCE, White.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 or 4 cucumbers, ½ pint -of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, -the yolks of 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -cucumbers into small pieces, after peeling -them and taking out the seeds. Put -them in the stewpan with the white stock -and seasoning; simmer gently till the -cucumbers are tender, which will be in -about ¼ hour. Then add the yolks of the -eggs, well beaten; stir them to the sauce, -but do not allow it to boil, and serve very -hot. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large cucumber, a piece -of butter the size of a walnut, a little -chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, -salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of -2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium -stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare the cucumber, quarter -it, and take out the seeds; cut it in -thin slices, put these on a plate with a -little salt, to draw the water from them; -drain, and put them in your stewpan -with the butter. When they are warmed -through, without being browned, pour -the stock on them. Add the sorrel, chervil, -and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes. -Mix the well-beaten yolks of the -eggs with the cream, which add at the -moment of serving. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from June to -September.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a very -nice addition to Salads).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 large cucumbers, or -12 smaller ones, 1 quart of vinegar, 2 -onions, 2 shalots, 1 tablespoonful of salt, -2 tablespoonfuls of pepper, ¼ teaspoonful -of cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and slice the -cucumbers, put them in a stone jar or -wide-mouthed bottle with the vinegar; -slice the onions and shalots, and add -them, with all the other ingredients, to -the cucumbers. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, -boil it all up, and, when cold, strain the -liquor through a piece of muslin, and -store it away in small bottles well sealed. -This vinegar is a very nice addition to -gravies, hashes, &c., as well as a great -improvement to salads, or to eat with -cold meat.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 311px;"> -<img src="images/illus-090a.jpg" width="311" height="252" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CUCUMBER-SLICES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, -4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and -pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare the cucumber, -cut it equally into <i>very thin</i> -slices, and <i>commence</i> cutting from the -<i>thick end;</i> if commenced at the stalk, -the cucumber will most likely have an -exceedingly bitter taste, far from agreeable. -For the purpose of slicing cucumbers -evenly and very thin, we recommend -the slice in preference to an ordinary -knife. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle -over salt and -pepper, and -pour over oil -and vinegar in -the above proportion; -turn -the cucumber about, and it is ready to -serve. This is a favourite accompaniment -to boiled salmon, is a nice addition -to all descriptions of salads, and makes -a pretty garnish to lobster salad. <i>Average -cost</i>, when scarce, 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; -when cheapest, may be had for 1<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Forced from the beginning -of March to the end of June; in full season -in July, August, and September.</p> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 199px;"> -<img src="images/illus-090b.jpg" width="199" height="49" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SLICED CUCUMBERS.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper -and salt to taste, flour, oil or butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pare the cucumbers, and cut -them into slices of an equal thickness, -commencing to slice from the thick and -not the stalk end of the cucumber. Wipe -the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them -with flour, and put them into a pan of -boiling oil or butter; keep turning them -about until brown; lift them out of the -pan, let them drain, and serve, piled -lightly in a dish. These will be found a -great improvement to rump-steak: they -should be placed on a dish with the steak -on the top. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, when cheapest, 1<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Forced -from the beginning of March to the end -of June; in full season in July and -August.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS à la Poulette.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 cucumbers, salt -and vinegar, 2 oz. of butter, flour, ½ pint -of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, -a lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt -and pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and -cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal -thickness, and let them remain in a pickle -of salt and vinegar for ½ hour, then drain -them in a cloth, and put them into a -stewpan with the butter. Fry them over -a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and -then dredge over them a little flour; add -the broth, skim off all the fat, which will -rise to the surface, and boil gently until -the gravy is somewhat reduced, but the -cucumber should not be broken. Stir in -the yolks of the eggs, add the parsley, -sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and -salt; bring the whole to the <i>point of -boiling</i>, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, when cheapest, 1<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in July, August, or September; -but may be had, forced, from the beginning -of March.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of whole pepper, -1 oz. of bruised ginger, sufficient vinegar -to cover the cucumbers. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -cucumbers in thick slices, sprinkle salt -over them, and let them remain for 24 -hours. The next day, drain them well -for 6 hours, put them into a jar, pour -boiling vinegar over them, and keep them -in a warm place. In a short time, boil -up the vinegar again, add pepper and -ginger in the above proportion, and instantly -cover them up. Tie them down -with bladder, and in a few days they will -be fit for use.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, an excellent way of -Preserving.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salt and water, 1 lb. of -lump sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of -ginger, cucumbers. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose the -greenest cucumbers, and those that are -most free from seeds; put them in strong -salt and water, with a cabbage-leaf to -keep them down; tie a paper over them, -and put them in a warm place till they -are yellow, then wash them and set them -over the fire in fresh water with a very -little salt, and another cabbage-leaf over -them; cover very closely, but take care -they do not boil. If they are not a fine -green, change the water again, cover -them as before, and make them hot. -When they are a good colour take them -off the fire and let them cool; cut them -in quarters, take out the seeds and pulp, -and put them into cold water; let them -remain for 2 days, changing the water -twice each day, to draw out the salt. Put -the sugar, with ½ pint of water, in a -saucepan over the fire; remove the scum -as it rises, and add the lemon-peel and -ginger with the outside scraped off; when -the syrup is tolerably thick, take it off -the fire, and when <i>cold</i>, wipe the cucumbers -<i>dry</i> and put them in. Boil the -syrup once in 2 or 3 days for 3 weeks; -strengthen it if required, and let it be -quite cold before the cucumbers are put -in. Great attention must be paid to the -directions in the commencement of this -recipe, as, if these are not properly carried -out, the result will be far from satisfactory. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—This recipe should -be used in June, July, or August.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, German Method of -keeping for Winter use.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Cucumbers, salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare -and slice the cucumbers (as for -the table), sprinkle well with salt, and -let them remain for 24 hours; strain off -the liquor, pack in jars, a thick layer -of cucumbers and salt alternately; tie -down closely, and, when wanted for use, -take out the quantity required. Now -wash them well in fresh water, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> -dress as usual with pepper, vinegar, and -oil.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 large cucumbers, flour, -butter, rather more than ½ pint of good -brown gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cucumbers -lengthwise the size of the dish they -are intended to be served in; empty -them of the seeds, and put them into -boiling water with a little salt, and let -them simmer for 5 minutes; then take -them out, place them in another stewpan, -with the gravy, and let them boil -over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are -tender. Should these be bitter, add a -lump of sugar; carefully dish them, -skim the sauce, pour over the cucumbers, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 20 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, when cheapest, -1<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in June, July, and August; -but may be had, forced, from the beginning -of March.</p> - - -<h3>CUCUMBERS, Stewed with Onions.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized -onions, not quite 1 pint of white -stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the -yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated nutmeg. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pare and slice the cucumbers, -take out the seeds, and cut the -onions into thin slices; put these both -into a stewpan, with the stock, and let -them boil for ¼ hour or longer, should -the cucumbers be very large. Beat up -the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the -sauce; add the cayenne, salt, and grated -nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, -and serve. Do not allow the sauce to -boil, or it will curdle. This is a favourite -dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, -&c. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, when cheapest, 1<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in July, August, and September; -but may be had, forced, from the beginning -of March.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT DUMPLINGS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of -suet, ½ lb. of currants, rather more than -½ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the suet -finely, mix it with the flour, and add the -currants, which should be nicely washed, -picked, and dried; mix the whole to a -limp paste with the water (if wanted -very nice, use milk); divide it into 7 or -8 dumplings; tie them in cloths, and -boil for 1¼ hour. They may be boiled -without a cloth: they should then be -made into round balls, and dropped into -boiling water, and should be moved about -at first, to prevent them from sticking -to the bottom of the saucepan. Serve -with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted -sugar. <i>Time.</i>—In a cloth, 1¼ hour; without, -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls -of flour, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls -of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of -currants, sugar to taste, a very little -grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified -dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a -basin with the flour, which should previously -be rubbed to a smooth batter -with a little cold milk; stir these ingredients -together; add the well-whisked -eggs, the rice, currants, sugar, and nutmeg. -Beat the mixture for a few minutes, -and, if not sufficiently thick, add a -little more boiled rice; drop it, in small -quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or -clarified dripping; fry the fritters a nice -brown, and, when done, drain them on a -piece of blotting-paper, before the fire. -Pile them on a white d’oyley, strew over -sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. -Send a cut lemon to table with them. -<i>Time.</i>—From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the -fritters. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT JAM, Black.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit, -weighed before being stripped from the -stalks, allow; ¾ lb. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the fruit be very -ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Strip -it from the stalks, and put it into a preserving-pan, -with a gill of water to each -lb. of fruit; boil these together for 10 -minutes; then add the sugar, and boil -the jam again for 30 minutes, reckoning -from the time when the jam simmers -equally all over, or longer, should it not -appear to set nicely when a little is -poured on to a plate. Keep stirring it -to prevent it from burning, carefully -remove all the scum, and when done, -pour it into pots. Let it cool, cover the -top of the jam with oiled paper, and the -top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper -brushed over on both sides with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> -the white of an egg: this, when cold, -forms a hard stiff cover, and perfectly -excludes the air. Great attention must -be paid to the stirring of this jam, as it -is very liable to burn, on account of the -thickness of the juice. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes -to boil the fruit and water; 30 -minutes with the sugar, or longer. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> for a pot -capable of holding 1 lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to -make 1 dozen pots of jam, each pot to -hold 1 lb. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in -July.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT JAM, Red.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit allow -¾ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the -fruit be gathered on a fine day; weigh -it, and then strip the currants from the -stalks; put them into a preserving-pan -with sugar in the above proportion; stir -them, and boil them -for about ¾ hour. -Carefully remove -the scum as it rises. -Put the jam into -pots, and, when -cold, cover with -oiled papers; over -these put a piece -of tissue-paper -brushed over on -both sides with the white of an egg; -press the paper round the top of the pot, -and, when dry, the covering will be quite -hard and air-tight. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour, -reckoning from the time the jam boils all -over. <i>Average cost</i>, for a lb. pot, from -6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow from 6 to 7 -quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb. pots -of jam. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in July.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 172px;"> -<img src="images/illus-093.jpg" width="172" height="162" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JAM-POT.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>CURRANT JELLY, Black.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Black currants; to every -pint of juice allow ¼ pint of water, 1 lb -of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Strip the currants -from the stalks, which may be done in -an expeditious manner, by holding the -bunch in one hand, and passing a small -silver fork down the currants: they will -then readily fall from the stalks. Put -them into a jar, place this jar in a saucepan -of boiling water, and simmer them -until their juice is extracted; then strain -them, and to every pint of juice allow -the above proportion of sugar and water; -stir these ingredients together cold until -the sugar is dissolved; place the preserving-pan -on the fire, and boil the jelly -for about ½ hour, reckoning from the -time it commences to boil all over, and -carefully remove the scum as it rises. If -the jelly becomes firm when a little is -put on a plate, it is done; it should then -be put into <i>small</i> pots, and covered the -same as the jam in the preceding recipe. -If the jelly is wanted very clear, the -fruit should not be squeezed dry; but, -of course, so much juice will not be obtained. -If the fruit is not much squeezed, -it may be converted into a jam for immediate -eating, by boiling it with a little -common sugar: this answers very well -for a nursery preserve. <i>Time.</i>—About -¾ hour to extract the juice; ½ hour to -boil the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> -to 10<i>d.</i> per ½-lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—From -3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield -a pint of juice. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this -in July.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT JELLY, Red.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Red currants; to every -pint of juice allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Have the fruit gathered in fine -weather; pick it from the stalks, put it -into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan -of boiling water over the fire, and let it simmer -gently until the juice is well drawn -from the currants; then strain them -through a jelly-bag or fine cloth, and if the -jelly is wished very clear, do not squeeze -them <i>too much</i>, as the skin and pulp from -the fruit will be pressed through with the -juice, and so make the jelly muddy. -Measure the juice, and to each pint -allow ¾ lb of loaf sugar; put these into -a preserving-pan, set it over the fire, and -keep stirring the jelly until it is done, -carefully removing every particle of scum -as it rises, using a wooden or silver spoon -for the purpose, as metal or iron ones -would spoil the colour of the jelly. -When it has boiled from 20 minutes to -½ hour, put a little of the jelly on a -plate, and if firm when cool, it is done. -Take it off the fire, pour it into small -gallipots, cover each of the pots with an -oiled paper, and then with a piece of -tissue-paper brushed over on both sides -with the white of an egg. Label the -pots, adding the year when the jelly was -made, and store it away in a dry place. -A jam may be made with the currants, -if they are not squeezed too dry, by -adding a few fresh raspberries, and -boiling all together, with sufficient sugar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> -to sweeten it nicely. As this jam is -not worth storing away, but is only for -immediate eating, a smaller proportion -of sugar than usual will be found -enough: it answers very well for children’s -puddings, or for a nursery preserve. -<i>Time.</i>—From ¾ to 1 hour to -extract the juice; 20 minutes to ½ hour -to boil the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, from -8<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i> per ½-lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—8 -quarts of currants will make from 10 -to 12 pots of jelly. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in July.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Should the above proportion of -sugar not be found sufficient for some -tastes, add an extra ¼ lb. to every pint of -juice, making altogether 1 lb.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT JELLY, White.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—White currants; to every -pint of juice allow ¾ lb. of good loaf -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the currants from -the stalks, and put them into a jar; -place this jar in a saucepan of boiling -water, and simmer until the juice is -well drawn from the fruit, which will be -in from ¾ to 1 hour. Then strain the -currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag; -do not squeeze them too much, or -the jelly will not be clear, and put the -juice into a very clean preserving-pan, -with the sugar. Let this simmer gently -over a clear fire until it is firm, and keep -stirring and skimming until it is done; -then pour it into small pots, cover them, -and store away in a dry place. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour to draw the juice; ½ hour to boil -the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i> -per ½-lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—From 3 pints -to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint -of juice. <i>Seasonable</i> in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT PUDDING, Boiled -(Plain and Economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -suet, ½ lb. of currants, milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the currants, dry them thoroughly, -and pick away any stalks or grit; chop -the suet finely; mix all the ingredients -together, and moisten with sufficient -milk to make the pudding into a stiff -batter; tie it up in a floured cloth, put -it into boiling water, and boil for 3½ -hours; serve with a cut lemon, cold -butter, and sifted sugar. <i>Time.</i>—3½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT PUDDING, Black or -Red.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of red or black -currants, measured with the stalks, ¼ lb. -of moist sugar, suet crust or butter crust -(<i>see</i> recipes for <span class="smcap"><a href="#CRUST_Very_good_Short_for_Fruit_Tarts">Crusts</a></span>). <i>Mode.</i>—Make, -with ¾ lb. of flour, either a suet crust or -butter crust (the former is usually made); -butter a basin, and line it with part -of the crust; add the currants, which -should be stripped from the stalks, and -sprinkle the sugar over them; put the -cover of the pudding on; make the -edges very secure, that the juice does -not escape; tie it down with a floured -cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil -from 2½ to 3 hours. Boiled without a -basin, allow ½ hour less. We have -given rather a large proportion of sugar; -but we find fruit puddings are so -much more juicy and palatable when -<i>well sweetened</i> before they are boiled, -besides being more economical. A few -raspberries added to red-currant pudding -are a very nice addition; about ½ -pint would be sufficient for the above -quantity of fruit. Fruit puddings are -very delicious if, when they are turned -out of the basin, the crust is browned -with a salamander, or put into a very -hot oven for a few minutes to colour it: -this makes it crisp on the surface. -<i>Time.</i>—2½ to 3 hours; without a basin, -2 to 2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, in full -season, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in June, July, and August.</p> - - -<h3>CURRANT AND RASPBERRY -TART, Red.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of picked currants, -½ pint of raspberries, 3 heaped -tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, ½ lb of -short crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Strip the currants -from the stalks, and put them into a -deep pie-dish, with a small cup placed -in the midst, bottom upwards; add the -raspberries and sugar; place a border of -paste round the edge of the dish, cover -with crust, ornament the edges, and -bake from ½ to ¾ hour; strew some -sifted sugar over before being sent to -table. This tart is more generally served -cold than hot. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour, -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in June, July, and -August.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In tarts of this description carefully -avoid washing the fruit.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>CURRANTS, Iced, for Dessert.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ pint of water, the -whites of 2 eggs, currants, pounded -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Select very fine bunches -of red or white currants, and well beat -the whites of the eggs. Mix these with -the water; then take the currants, a -bunch at a time, and dip them in; let -them drain for a minute or two, and roll -them in very fine-pounded sugar. Lay -them to dry on paper, when the sugar -will crystallize round each currant, and -have a very pretty effect. All fresh -fruit may be prepared in the same manner; -and a mixture of various fruits iced -in this manner, and arranged on one -dish, looks very well for a summer -dessert. <i>Time.</i>—¼ day to dry the fruit. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> for a pint of iced currants. -<i>Seasonable</i> in summer.</p> - - -<h3>CURRY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Veal, mutton, fowl, or -rabbit; a large onion, butter, brown -gravy or stock, a tablespoonful of curry-powder. -<i>Mode.</i>—Let the meat be half -fried. Cut the onion into small pieces, -and fry it in butter till quite brown; add -the meat, with a small quantity of brown -gravy or stock, also the curry-powder, -and stew all for about 20 minutes. This -is for a dry curry; more gravy and curry-powder -can be used if preferred. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CURRY ST. LEONARDS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Chicken, or any meat; -2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls -of curry-powder, 4 or 5 leaves of -mint, a teacup of good gravy, salt, a -dessertspoonful of vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls -of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Fry together for -10 minutes the butter, curry-powder, -and mint; then add the meat <i>cut into -dice</i>, also the gravy, salt, and vinegar. -Let all these simmer for 20 minutes, and -then pour over the cream, and serve -quite hot. <i>Time.</i>—30 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CURRY-POWDER (Founded on -Dr. Kitchener’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of coriander-seed, -¼ lb. of turmeric, 2 oz. of cinnamon-seed, -½ oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. of mustard, -1 oz. of ground ginger, ½ ounce of allspice, -2 oz. of fenugreek seed. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients in a cool oven, -where they should remain one night; -then pound them in a mortar, rub them -through a sieve, and mix thoroughly -together; keep the powder in a bottle, -from which the air should be completely -excluded.</p> - - -<h3>CURRY-POWDER (Capt. White’s -Recipe; most excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of pale turmeric -seed, 4 oz. of cumming seed, 8 oz. of -coriander seed, 4 oz. of black pepper, -2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 4 oz. of Jamaica -ginger, 10 oz. of caraway seed, ¼ oz. of -cardamums. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix together all -these ingredients, well pounded, and -then place the mixture in the sun, or -before the fire, stirring it frequently. -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This will be found a most excellent -curry-powder, if care be taken to -purchase the ingredients at a good -druggist’s.</p> - - -<h3><a id="CUSTARDS_Boiled"></a>CUSTARDS, Boiled.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 351px;"> -<img src="images/illus-094.jpg" width="351" height="87" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, -3 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 laurel-leaves, or -the rind of ½ lemon, or a few drops of -essence of vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of -brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a <i>lined</i> -saucepan, with the sugar and whichever -of the above flavourings may be preferred -(the lemon-rind flavours custards -most deliciously), and let the milk steep -by the side of the fire until it is well -flavoured. Bring it to the point of -boiling, then strain it into a basin; -whisk the eggs well, and, when the milk -has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and -<i>strain</i> this mixture into a jug. Place -this jug in a saucepan of boiling water -over the fire; keep stirring the custard -<i>one way</i> until it thickens; but on no -account allow it to reach the boiling -point, as it will instantly curdle and be -full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir -in the brandy, and when this is well -mixed with the custard, pour it into -glasses, which should be rather more -than three-parts full; grate a little -nutmeg over the top, and the dish is -ready for table. To make custards look<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> -and eat better, ducks’ eggs should be -used, when obtainable; they add very -much to the flavour and richness, and -so many are not required as of the -ordinary eggs, 4 ducks’ eggs to the pint of -milk making a delicious custard. When -desired extremely rich and good, cream -should be substituted for the milk, and -double the quantity of eggs used to -those mentioned, omitting the whites. -<i>Time.</i>—½ hour to infuse the lemon-rind, -about 10 minutes to stir the custard. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill 8 -custard-glasses. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CUSTARD PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of milk, the rind -of ¼ lemon, ¼ lb. of moist sugar, 4 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a saucepan -with the sugar and lemon-rind, and let -this infuse for about ½ hour, or until the -milk is well flavoured; whisk the eggs, -yolks and whites; pour the milk to -them, stirring all the while; then have -ready a pie-dish, lined at the edge with -paste ready baked; strain the custard -into the dish, grate a little nutmeg over -the top, and bake in a <i>very slow</i> oven for -about ½ hour, or rather longer. The -flavour of this pudding may be varied -by substituting bitter almonds for the -lemon-rind; and it may be very much -enriched by using half cream and half -milk, and doubling the quantity of eggs. -<i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This pudding is usually served -cold with fruit tarts.</p> - - -<h3>CUSTARD PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful -of flour, 4 eggs, flavouring to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Flavour the milk by -infusing in it a little lemon-rind or cinnamon; -whisk the eggs, stir the flour -gradually to these, and pour over them -the milk, and stir the mixture well. -Butter a basin that will exactly hold it; -put in the custard, and tie a floured -cloth over; plunge it into boiling water, -and turn it about for a few minutes, to -prevent the flour from settling in one -part. Boil it slowly for ½ hour; turn -it out of the basin, and serve. The -pudding may be garnished with red-currant -jelly, and sweet sauce may be -sent to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CUSTARD SAUCE, for Sweet Puddings -or Tarts.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of milk, 2 eggs, -3 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 tablespoonful -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk in a -very clean saucepan, and let it boil. -Beat the eggs, stir to them the milk -and pounded sugar, and put the mixture -into a jug. Place the jug in a saucepan -of boiling water; keep stirring well -until it thickens, but do not allow it to -boil, or it will curdle. Serve the sauce -in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and -grate a little nutmeg over the top. -This sauce may be made very much -nicer by using cream instead of milk; -but the above recipe will be found quite -good enough for ordinary purposes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient</i>, -this quantity, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>CUSTARD TARTLETS, or Fanchonnettes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For the custard, 4 eggs, -¾ pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of -pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of -flour, flavouring to taste; the whites of -2 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Well -beat the eggs; stir to them the -milk, the butter, which should be beaten -to a cream, the sugar, and flour; mix -these ingredients well together, put them -into a very clean saucepan, and bring -them to the simmering point, but do not -allow them to boil. Flavour with essence -of vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated -chocolate, or any flavouring ingredient -that may be preferred. Line some -round tartlet-pans with good puff-paste; -fill them with the custard, and bake in a -moderate oven for about 20 minutes; -then take them out of the pans; let -them cool, and in the meantime whisk -the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; -stir into this the pounded sugar, and -spread smoothly over the tartlets a little -of this mixture. Put them in the oven -again to set the icing, but be particular -that they do not scorch; when the -icing looks crisp, they are done. Arrange -them, piled high in the centre, on a white -napkin, and garnish the dish, and in -between the tartlets, with strips of -bright jelly, or very firmly-made preserve. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to bake the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> -tartlets; 5 minutes after being iced. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the paste, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to fill 10 or 12 tartlets, <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The icing may be omitted on -the top of the tartlets, and a spoonful -of any kind of preserve put at the bottom -of the custard instead: this varies -both the flavour and appearance of this -dish.</p> - - -<h3>CUTLET, the Invalid’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 nice cutlet from a loin -or neck of mutton, 2 teacupfuls of water, -1 very small stick of celery, pepper and -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the cutlet -cut from a very nice loin or neck of -mutton; take off all the fat; put it into -a stewpan, with the other ingredients; -stew <i>very gently</i> indeed for nearly 2 hours, -and skim off every particle of fat that -may rise to the surface from time to -time. The celery should be cut into thin -slices before it is added to the meat, and -care must be taken not to put in too -much of this ingredient, or the dish will -not be good. If the water is allowed to -boil fast, the cutlet will be hard. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours’ very gentle stewing. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 person. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CUTLETS, Mutton, Italian.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 3 lbs. of the neck -of mutton, clarified butter, the yolk of -1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, -1 tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs, -1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful -of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful -of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper, -salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, -½ pint of hot broth or water, 2 teaspoonfuls -of Harvey’s sauce, 1 teaspoonful of -soy, 2 teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, -1 tablespoonful of port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, -flatten them, and trim off some of -the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and -then into the beaten yolk of an egg. -Mix well together bread-crumbs, herbs, -parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning -in the above proportion, and cover -the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt -some butter in a frying-pan, lay in the -cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take -them out, and keep them hot before the -fire. Dredge some flour into the pan, -and, if there is not sufficient butter, add -a little more; stir till it looks brown, -then put in the hot broth or water, and -the remaining ingredients; give one boil, -and pour round the cutlets. If the gravy -should not be thick enough, add a little -more flour. Mushrooms, when obtainable, -are a great improvement to this -dish, and when not in season, mushroom-powder -may be substituted for them. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes; rather longer, should -the cutlets be very thick. <i>Average cost</i>, -2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>CUTLETS of Cold Mutton.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold loin or neck of -mutton, 1 egg, bread-crumbs, brown -gravy or tomato sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -remains of cold loin or neck of mutton -into cutlets, trim them, and take away a -portion of the fat, should there be too -much; dip them in beaten egg, and -sprinkle with bread-crumbs, and fry them -a nice brown in hot dripping. Arrange, -them on a dish, and pour round them -either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—About 7 minutes. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Tomatoes -to be had most reasonably in -September and October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMPFNUDELN, or German -Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -butter, 5 eggs, 2 small tablespoonfuls of -yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-pounded -sugar, milk, a very little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the flour into a basin, make a hole -in the centre, into which put the yeast, -and rather more than ¼ pint of warm -milk; make this into a batter with the -middle of the flour, and let the sponge -rise in a warm temperature. When sufficiently -risen, mix the eggs, butter, -sugar, and salt, with a little more warm -milk, and knead the whole well together -with the hands, beating the dough until -it is perfectly smooth, and it drops from -the fingers. Then cover the basin with -a cloth, put it in a warm place, and when -the dough has nicely risen, knead it into -small balls; butter the bottom of a deep -sauté-pan, strew over some pounded -sugar, and let the dampfnudeln be laid -in, but do not let them touch one another; -then pour over sufficient milk to -cover them, put on the lid, and let them -rise to twice their original size by the -side of the fire. Now place them in the -oven for a few minutes to acquire a nice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> -brown colour, and serve them on a napkin, -with custard sauce flavoured with -vanilla, or a compôte of any fruit that -may be preferred. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour -for the sponge to rise; 10 to 15 minutes -for the puddings to rise; 10 minutes to -bake them in a brisk oven. <i>Sufficient</i> for -10 or 12 dampfnudeln. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSON CHEESE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Damsons; to every lb. of -fruit pulp allow ½ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick -the stalks from the damsons, and -put them into a preserving-pan; simmer -them over the fire until they are soft, occasionally -stirring them, then beat them -through a coarse sieve, and put the pulp -and juice into the preserving-pan, with -sugar in the above proportion, having -previously carefully weighed them. Stir -the sugar well in, and simmer the damsons -slowly for 2 hours. Skim well, then -boil the preserve quickly for ½ hour, or -until it looks firm and hard in the spoon; -put it quickly into shallow pots, or very -tiny earthenware moulds, and, when -cold, cover it with oiled papers, and the -jars with tissue-paper brushed over on -both sides with the white of an egg. A -few of the stones may be cracked, and -the kernels boiled with the damsons, -which very much improves the flavour of -the cheese. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour to boil the -damsons without the sugar; 2 hours to -simmer them slowly, ½ hour quickly. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i> per ¼-lb. -pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 pint of damsons to -make a <i>very small</i> pot of cheese. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in September or -October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSON JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Damsons; to every lb. of -fruit allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -the fruit gathered in dry weather, -pick it over, and reject any that is at all -blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh -them, and to every lb. allow ¾ lb. of loaf -sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into a preserving-pan; -keep stirring them gently -until the sugar is dissolved, and carefully -remove the scum as it rises. Boil the -jam for about an hour, reckoning from -the time it commences to simmer all over -alike: it must be well stirred all the -time, or it will be liable to burn and stick -to the pan, which will cause the jam to -have a very disagreeable flavour. When -the jam looks firm, and the juice appears -to set, it is done; then take it off the -fire, put it into pots, cover it down, when -quite cold, with oiled and egged papers, -and store it away in a dry place. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour after the jam simmers all over. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—1½ pint of damsons for a lb. -pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in September -or October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSON PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of damsons, ¼ lb. -of moist sugar, ¾ lb. of suet or butter -crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a suet crust with -¾ lb. of flour by recipe; line a buttered -pudding-basin with a portion of it; fill -the basin with the damsons, sweeten -them, and put on the lid; pinch the -edges of the crust together, that the -juice does not escape; tie over a floured -cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, -and boil from 2½ to 3 hours. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -to 3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in -September and October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSON TART.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of damsons, ¼ lb. -of moist sugar, ½ lb. of short or puff crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the damsons, with the sugar -between them, into a deep pie-dish, in -the midst of which place a small cup or -jar turned upside down; pile the fruit -high in the middle, line the edges of the -dish with short or puff crust, whichever -may be preferred; put on the cover, ornament -the edges, and bake from ½ to ¾ -hour in a good oven. If puff-crust is -used, about 10 minutes before the pie is -done, take it out of the oven, brush it -over with the white of an egg beaten to -a froth with the blade of a knife; strew -some sifted sugar over, and a few drops -of water, and put the tart back to finish -baking: with short crust, a little plain -sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that -will be required. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in September and -October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSONS, Baked, for Winter use.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit allow -6 oz. of pounded sugar; melted mutton -suet. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose sound fruit, -not too ripe; pick off the stalks, weigh -it, and to every lb. allow the above proportion<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> -of pounded sugar. Put the fruit -into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the -sugar amongst it; cover the jars with -saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, -and bake the fruit until it is quite tender. -When cold, cover the top of the -fruit with a piece of white paper cut to -the size of the jar; pour over this melted -mutton suet about an inch thick, and -cover the tops of the jars with thick -brown paper well tied down. Keep the -jars in a cool dry place, and the fruit -will remain good till the following Christmas, -but not much longer. <i>Time.</i>—From -5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons in a -very cool oven. <i>Seasonable</i> in September -and October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSONS, Compôte of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of damsons, 1 pint -of syrup (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#SYRUP">Syrup</a></span>). <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -sound ripe damsons, pick the stalks from -them, and put them into boiling syrup -made by the recipe. Simmer them gently -until the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently -soft to break; take them up, boil -the syrup for 5 minutes, pour it over the -damsons, and serve. This should be sent -to table in a glass dish. <i>Time.</i>—About -¼ hour to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes -to boil the syrup. <i>Average cost</i>, -9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in September and October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSONS, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every quart of damsons -allow ½ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the damsons (which should be picked -from the stalks and quite free from -blemishes) into a jar, with pounded sugar -sprinkled amongst them in the above -proportion; tie the jar closely down, set -it in a saucepan of cold water; bring it -gradually to boil, and simmer gently -until the damsons are soft, without being -broken. Let them stand till cold; then -strain the juice from them, boil it up -well, strain it through a jelly-bag, and -pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover -with oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper -brushed over on both sides with -the white of an egg, and store away in a -dry place. <i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour to -simmer the fruit after the water boils; -¼ hour to boil the juice. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in September or October.</p> - - -<h3>DAMSONS, or any kind of Plums, -to Preserve. (Useful in Winter.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Damsons or plums; boiling -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the fruit into -clean dry stone jars, taking care to leave -out all that are broken or blemished. -When full, pour boiling water on the -plums, until it stands one inch above the -fruit; cut a piece of paper to fit the inside -of the jar, over which pour melted -mutton-suet; cover down with brown -paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool -place. When used, the suet should be -removed, the water poured off, and the -jelly at the bottom of the jar used and -mixed with the fruit. <i>Seasonable</i> in September -and October.</p> - - -<h3>DARIOLES À LA VANILLE. -(Sweet Entremets.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of milk, ½ pint of -cream, 2 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of pounded -sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, -flavouring of essence of vanilla. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the flour to a smooth batter, with the -milk; stir in the cream, sugar, the eggs, -which should be well whisked, and the -butter, which should be beaten to a cream. -Put in some essence of vanilla, drop by -drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; -line some dariole-moulds with puff-paste, -three-parts fill them with the batter, and -bake in a good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. -Turn them out of the moulds on a dish, -without breaking them; strew over sifted -sugar, and serve. The flavouring of the -darioles may be varied by substituting -lemon, cinnamon, or almonds, for the -vanilla. <i>Time.</i>—25 to 35 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>DECEMBER—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu3a.jpg" width="284" height="233" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Mock-Turtle Soup, -removed by -Cod’s Head & Shoulders -and Oyster Sauce. - -Stewed Eels. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Fried Whitings. - -Julienne Soup, -removed by -Soles aux fines herbes. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu3b.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Haunch of Mutton. - -Roast Goose. - -Ham and Brussels -Sprouts. - -Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Game Pie. - -Boiled Turkey and -Celery Sauce. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu3c.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Fillets of Grouse and -Sauce Piquante. - -Curried Lobster. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Mutton Cutlets and -Soubise Sauce. - -Sweetbreads. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu3d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Apricot -Tourte. - -Pheasants, -removed by -Plum-Pudding. - -Victoria -Sandwiches. - -Lemon Jelly. - -Vanilla Cream. - -Champagne Jelly. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Blancmange. - -Tipsy -Cake. - -Wild Ducks, -removed by -Iced Pudding. - -Mince -Pies. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Game soup; clear vermicelli -soup; codfish au gratin; fillets -of whitings à la maître d’hôtel. <i>Entrées.</i>—Filet -de bœuf and sauce piquante; fricasseed -chicken; oyster patties; curried -rabbit. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast turkey -and sausages; boiled leg of pork and -vegetables; roast goose; stewed beef à -la Jardinière. <i>Third Course.</i>—Widgeon; -partridges; Charlotte aux pommes; -mince pies; orange jelly, lemon cream; -apple tart; cabinet pudding. Dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Mulligatawny soup; -fried slices of codfish; soles à la crême. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Croquettes of fowl; pork cutlets -and tomato sauce. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -ribs of beef; boiled turkey and -celery sauce; tongue, garnished; lark -pudding; vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Roast -hare; grouse; plum-pudding; -mince pies; Charlotte à la Parisienne; -cheesecakes; apple tart; Nesselrode -pudding. Dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Carrot soup; crimped -cod and oyster sauce; baked soles. <i>Entrées.</i>—Mutton -kidneys à la Française; -oyster patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Boiled -beef and vegetables; marrow-bones; -roast fowls and water-cresses; tongue, -garnished; game pie. <i>Third Course.</i>—Partridges; -blancmange; compôte of -apples; vol-au-vent of pears; almond -cheesecakes; lemon pudding. Dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinners for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Rabbit soup; brill and -shrimp sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Curried fowl; -oyster patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -turkey and sausages; boiled leg of pork; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Hunters’ -pudding; lemon cheesecakes; apple tart; -custards, in glasses; raspberry cream. -Dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Ox-tail soup; crimped -cod and oyster sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Savoury -rissoles; fowl scollops à la Béchamel. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Haunch of mutton; -boiled chickens and celery sauce; bacon-cheek, -garnished with Brussels sprouts; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Snipes; -orange jelly; cheesecakes; apples à la -Portugaise; apricot-jam tartlets; soufflé -of rice. Dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; soles -à la maître d’hôtel; fried eels. <i>Entrées.</i>—Pork -cutlets and tomato sauce; ragoût -of mutton à la Jardinière. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -goose; boiled leg of mutton and -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Pheasants; -whipped cream; meringues; compôte of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> -Normandy pippins; mince pies; plum-pudding. -Dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Carrot soup; baked -cod; fried smelts. <i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed -rump-steak à la Jardinière; fricasseed -chicken. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast leg of -mutton, boned and stuffed; boiled turkey -and oyster sauce; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Wild ducks; fancy pastry; -lemon cream; damson tart, with bottled -fruit; custards, in glasses; cabinet pudding. -Dessert.</p> - - -<h3>DECEMBER, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast -beef, horseradish sauce, vegetables. 3. -Plum-pudding, mince pies.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Fried whitings, melted -butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold beef, mashed -potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices -and warmed, apple tart.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Hashed beef and broiled -bones, pork cutlets and tomato sauce; -vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Boiled neck of mutton -and vegetables,—the broth served first -with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in -it. 2. Bakewell pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Roast leg of pork, apple -sauce; vegetables. 2. Rice snowballs.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Soles à la crême. 2. Cold -pork and mashed potatoes, broiled rump-steaks -and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. The remains of cold pork -curried, dish of rice, mutton cutlets and -mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Roast turkey and sausages, -boiled leg of pork, pease pudding; -vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, -mince pies.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Hashed turkey, cold -pork, mashed potatoes. 2. Mincemeat -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Pea-soup made from liquor -in which pork was boiled. 2. Boiled -fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. -Baked rice pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast leg of mutton, -stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. -Baked rolled jam pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Baked cod’s head. 2. -Cold mutton, roast hare, gravy and red-currant -jelly. 3. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Hare soup, made with -stock and remains of roast hare. 2. -Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed -potatoes. 3. Open tarts, rice blancmange.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney -pudding, vegetables. 2. Mince pies, -baked apple dumplings.</p> - - -<h3>DECEMBER, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, -eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks, herrings, -lobsters, oysters, perch, pike, shrimps, -skate, sprats, soles, tench, thornback, -turbot, whiting.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, -venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Capons, chickens, fowls, -geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, -widgeons, wild ducks.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Hares, partridges, pheasants, -snipes, woodcocks.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, -celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, -parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter -spinach.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples, chestnuts, filberts, -grapes, medlars, oranges, pears, walnuts, -dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, -figs, dates, &c.,—crystallized preserves.</p> - - -<h3>DESSERT.</h3> - -<p>With moderns the dessert is not so -profuse, nor does it hold the same relationship -to the dinner that it held with -the ancients,—the Romans more especially. -On ivory tables they would spread -hundreds of different kinds of raw, cooked, -and preserved fruits, tarts, and cakes, -as substitutes for the more substantial -comestibles with which the guests were -satiated. However, as late as the reigns -of our two last Georges, fabulous sums -were often expended upon fanciful desserts. -The dessert certainly repays, in -its general effect, the expenditure upon -it of much pains; and it may be said, -that if there be any poetry at all in meals, -or the process of feeding, there is poetry -in the dessert, the materials for which -should be selected with taste, and, of -course, must depend, in a great measure, -upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes, -peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, -apples, pears, oranges, almonds, raisins, -figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, -&c. &c., all kinds of dried fruits, and -choice and delicately-flavoured cakes and -biscuits, make up the dessert, together -with the most costly and <i>recherché</i> wines. -The shape of the dishes varies at different -periods, the prevailing fashion at present<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> -being oval and circular dishes on stems. -The patterns and colours are also subject -to changes of fashion; some persons -selecting china, chaste in pattern and -colour; others, elegantly-shaped glass -dishes on stems, with gilt edges. The -beauty of the dessert services at the -tables of the wealthy tends to enhance -the splendour of the plate. The general -mode of putting a dessert on table, now -the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to -place them down the middle of the table, -a tall and short dish alternately; the -fresh fruits being arranged on the tall -dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c., -on small round or oval glass plates. The -garnishing needs especial attention, as the -contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits -with nicely-arranged foliage is very -charming. The garnish <i>par excellence</i> for -dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized -dewdrops producing a marvellous effect -in the height of summer, giving a most -inviting sense of coolness to the fruit it -encircles. The double-edged mallow, -strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing -effect; and for winter desserts, the bay, -cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In -town, the expense and difficulty of obtaining -natural foliage is great, but paper -and composite leaves are to be purchased -at an almost nominal price. Mixed fruits -of the larger sort are now frequently -served on one dish. This mode admits -of the display of much taste in the arrangement -of the fruit: for instance, a -pine in the centre of the dish, surrounded -with large plums of various sorts and -colours, mixed with pears, rosy-cheeked -apples, all arranged with a due regard to -colour, have a very good effect. Again, -apples and pears look well mingled with -plums and grapes, hanging from the -border of the dish in a négligé sort of -manner, with a large bunch of the same -fruit lying on the top of the apples. A -dessert would not now be considered -complete without candied and preserved -fruits and confections. The candied -fruits may be purchased at a less cost -than they can be manufactured at home. -They are preserved abroad in most ornamental -and elegant forms. And since, -from the facilities of travel, we have become -so familiar with the tables of the -French, chocolate in different forms is -indispensable to our desserts. Olives, -too, should not be omitted; these should -be served in a small, deep glass dish, with -a little of the liquor, or brine, poured over.</p> - - -<h3>DESSERT DISHES.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 212px;"> -<img src="images/illus-103a.jpg" width="212" height="237" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF NUTS.</div> -</div> - -<p>The tazza, or dish with stem, the same -as that shown in our illustrations, is now -the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. -The fruit can be arranged and shown to -better advantage on these tall high -dishes than on the short flat ones. All -the dishes are now usually placed down -the centre of the table, dried and fresh -fruit alternately, the former being arranged -on small round or oval glass -plates, and the latter on the dishes with -stems. The fruit should always be gathered -on the same day that it is required -for table, and should be tastefully arranged -on the dishes, with leaves between -and round it. By purchasing fruits that -<i>are in season</i>, a dessert can be supplied -at a very moderate cost. These, with a -few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, -bon-bons, &c., are sufficient for an ordinary -dessert. When fresh fruit cannot -be obtained, dried and foreign fruits, -compôtes, baked pears, stewed Normandy -pippins, &c. &c., must supply its place, -with the addition of preserves, bon-bons, -cakes, biscuits, &c. At fashionable tables, -forced fruit is served growing in -pots, these pots being hidden in more -ornamental ones, and arranged with the -other dishes. A few vases of fresh -flowers, tastefully arranged, add very -much to the appearance of the dessert; -and, when these are not obtainable, a -few paper ones, mixed with green leaves, -answer very well as a substitute. In -decorating a table, whether for luncheon, -dessert, or supper, a vase or two of -flowers should never be forgotten, as -they add so much to the elegance of the -<i>tout ensemble</i>. In summer and autumn, -ladies residing in the country can always -manage to have a few freshly-gathered -flowers on their tables, and should never -be without this inexpensive luxury. On -the Continent, vases or epergnes filled -with flowers are invariably placed down -the centre of the dinner-table at regular -distances. Ices for dessert are usually -moulded; when this is not the case, they -are handed round in glasses, with wafers -to accompany them. Preserved ginger -is frequently handed round after ices, to -prepare the palate for the delicious dessert -wines. A basin or glass of finely-pounded -lump sugar must never be omitted -at a dessert, as also a glass jug of -fresh cold water (iced, if possible), and -two goblets by its side. Grape scissors,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> -a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, -should always be put on table, if there -are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests -are sometimes served at the close of the -dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. -The French often serve plain or -grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or -dried fruits. At some tables, finger-glasses -are placed at the right of each -person, nearly half filled with cold spring -water, and in winter with tepid water. -These precede the dessert. At other -tables, a glass or vase is simply handed -round, filled with perfumed water, into -which each guest dips the corner of his -napkin, and, when needful, refreshes his -lips and the tips of his fingers. After -the dishes are placed, and every one is -provided with plates, glasses, spoons, -&c., the wine should be put at each end -of the table, cooled or otherwise, according -to the season. If the party be small, -the wine may be placed only at the top -of the table, near the host. The following -dishes may be introduced at dessert, -according to season:—</p> - -<p><b>Dish of Nuts.</b>—These are merely -arranged piled high in the centre of -the dish, as shown in the engraving, -with or without -leaves round -the edge. Filberts -should -always be -served with -the outer skin -or husk on -them; and -walnuts should -be well wiped -with a damp -cloth, and then -with a dry one, -to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling -the shells frequently have. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Filberts -from September to March; -walnuts from September to January.</p> - - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Box of French Plums.</b>—If the -box which contains them is exceedingly -ornamental, it -may be placed -on the table; -if small, on a -glass dish; if -large, without -one. French -plums may also be arranged on a glass -plate, and garnished with bright-coloured -sweetmeats, which make a very good -effect. All fancy boxes of preserved -and crystallized fruit may be put on the -table or not, at pleasure. These little -matters of detail must, of course, be left -to individual taste. <i>Seasonable.</i>—May be -purchased all the year; but are in greater -perfection in the winter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 212px;"> -<img src="images/illus-103b.jpg" width="212" height="94" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Dish of Mixed Fruit.</b>—For a -centre dish, a mixture of various fresh -fruits has a remarkably good effect, particularly -if a pine be added to the list. -A high raised appearance should be given -to the fruit, which is done in the following -manner. Place a tumbler in the -centre of the dish, and, in this tumbler, -the pine, crown uppermost; round the -tumbler put a thick layer of moss, and, -over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, -and such fruit as is simultaneously in -season. By putting a layer of moss -underneath, so much fruit is not required, -besides giving a better shape to the dish. -Grapes should be placed on the top of -the fruit, a portion of some of the bunches -hanging over the sides of the dish in a -négligé kind of manner, which takes off -the formal look of the dish. In arranging -the plums, apples, &c., let the colours -contrast well. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable for -a dessert in September or October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"> -<img src="images/illus-103c.jpg" width="266" height="439" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.</div> -</div> -<hr class="tb" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span></p> - -<p><b>Box of Chocolate.</b>—This is served -in an ornamental -box, -placed on a -glass plate or -dish. <i>Seasonable.</i>—May -be purchased at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 220px;"> -<img src="images/illus-104a.jpg" width="220" height="85" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOX OF CHOCOLATE.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Dish of Apples.</b>—The apples should -be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and -arranged on a dish, piled high in the -centre, with evergreen leaves between -each layer. -The inferior -apples should -form the bottom -layer, -with the -bright-coloured -large ones -at the top. -The leaves of -the laurel, -bay, holly, or -any shrub -green in winter, -are suitable for garnishing dessert -dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the -same manner; they should also be wiped -with a dry cloth before being sent to -table.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 220px;"> -<img src="images/illus-104b.jpg" width="220" height="228" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF APPLES.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Dish of Mixed Summer Fruit.</b>—This -dish consists of cherries, raspberries, -currants, and strawberries, piled in different -layers, -with plenty of -leaves between -each layer, so -that each fruit -is well separated. -The fruit -should be arranged -with a -due regard to -colour, so that -they contrast -nicely one with -the other. Our -engraving shows -a layer of white cherries at the bottom, -then one of red raspberries, over that a -layer of white currants, and at the top -some fine scarlet strawberries. <i>Seasonable</i> -in June, July, and August.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/illus-104c.jpg" width="200" height="245" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF MIXED SUMMER -FRUIT.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Almonds and Raisins.</b>—These are -usually served on glass dishes, the fruit -piled high in the centre, and the almonds -blanched and strewn over. To blanch -the almonds, put them into a small mug -or teacup, pour over them boiling water, -let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and -the skins may then be easily removed. -Figs, dates, French plums, &c., are all -served on small glass plates or oval dishes, -but without the almonds. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time, but more suitable in winter, -when fresh fruit is not obtainable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 256px;"> -<img src="images/illus-104d.jpg" width="256" height="78" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ALMONDS AND RAISINS.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Dish of Strawberries.</b>—Fine strawberries, -arranged in the manner shown -in the engraving, look exceedingly well. -The inferior -ones should be -placed at the -bottom of the -dish, and the -others put in -rows pyramidically, -with the -stalks downwards, -so that -when the whole -is completed, -nothing but the -red part of the -fruit is visible. The fruit should be -gathered with rather long stalks, as there -is then something to support it, and it -can be placed more upright in each layer. -A few of the finest should be reserved to -crown the top.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 210px;"> -<img src="images/illus-104e.jpg" width="210" height="236" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.</div> -</div> - - - -<h3>DEVONSHIRE JUNKET.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of new -milk allow 2 dessertspoonfuls of brandy, -1 dessertspoonful of sugar, and 1½ dessertspoonful -of prepared rennet; thick -cream, pounded cinnamon, or grated -nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the milk blood-warm; -put it into a deep dish with the -brandy, sugar, and rennet; stir it altogether, -and cover it over until it is set. -Then spread some thick or clotted cream -over the top, grate some nutmeg, and -strew some sugar over, and the dish will -be ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—About 2 hours -to set the milk. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>DINNER,</h3> - -<p>Being the grand solid meal of the day, -is a matter of considerable importance; -and a well-served table is a striking index -of human ingenuity and resource.</p> - -<p>The elegance with which a dinner is -served depends, of course, partly upon -the means, but still more upon the taste -of the master and mistress of the house. -It may be observed, in general, that there -should always be flowers on the table, -and, as they form no item of expense -where a garden is, there is no reason -why they should not be employed every -day.</p> - -<p>The variety of the dishes which furnish -forth a modern dinner-table, does not -necessarily imply anything unwholesome, -or anything capricious. Food that is not -well relished cannot be well digested; -and the appetite of the over-worked man -of business, or statesman, or of any -dweller in towns, whose occupations are -exciting and exhausting, is jaded, and -requires stimulation. Men and women -who are in rude health, and who have -plenty of air and exercise, eat the simplest -food with relish, and commonly -digest it well; but those conditions are -out of the reach of many men. They -must suit their mode of dining to their -mode of living, if they cannot choose the -latter. It is in serving up food that is at -once appetizing and wholesome that the -skill of the modern housewife is severely -tasked; and she has scarcely a more important -duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her -particular vocation, in virtue of which -she may be said to hold the health of the -family, and of the friends of the family, -in her hands from day to day.</p> - -<p>The following aphorisms and short directions -in relation to dinner-parties, are -well deserving of notice:—“Let the -number of your guests never exceed -twelve, so that the conversation may be -general. Let the temperature of the -dining-room be about 68°. Let the -dishes be few in number in the first -course, but proportionally good. The -order of food is from the most substantial -to the lightest. The order of drinking -wine is from the mildest to the most -foamy and most perfumed. To invite a -person to your house is to take charge of -his happiness so long as he is beneath -your roof. The mistress of the house -should always be certain that the coffee -is excellent; whilst the master should be -answerable for the quality of his wines -and liqueurs.”</p> - -<p><i>Dinners à la Russe</i> differ from ordinary -dinners in the mode of serving the various -dishes. In a dinner à la Russe, the -dishes are cut up on a sideboard, and -handed round to the guests, and each -dish may be considered a course. The -table for a dinner à la Russe should be laid -with flowers and plants in fancy flower-pots -down the middle, together with -some of the dessert dishes. A <i>menu</i> or -bill of fare should be placed by the side -of each guest.</p> - -<p>The following are bills of fare for dinners -à la Russe, and eatable from July to -November: the dishes can easily be -varied to suit other months.</p> - - -<h3 class="center"><span class="smcap">Service a la Russe</span> (July).</h3> - -<p>Julienne Soup, Vermicelli Soup.</p> - -<p>Boiled Salmon, Turbot and Lobster -Sauce. Soles-Water Souchy, Perch-Water -Souchy. Matelote d’Anguilles à -la Toulouse, Filets de Soles à la Normandie. -Rod Mullet, Trout. Lobster -Rissoles, Whitebait.</p> - -<p>Riz de Veau à la Banquière, Filets de -Poulets aux Concombres. Canards à la -Rouennaise, Mutton Cutlets à la Jardinière. -Braised Beef à la Flamande, -Spring Chickens, Roast Quarter of Lamb, -Roast Saddle of Mutton, Tongue, Ham -and Peas.</p> - -<p>Quails, larded, Roast Ducks, Turkey -Poult, larded. Mayonnaise of Chicken, -Tomatoes, Green Peas à la Française. -Suédoise of Strawberries, Charlotte -Russe, Compôte of Cherries. Neapolitan -Cakes, Pastry, Madeira Wine Jelly. -Iced Pudding à la Nesselrode.</p> - -<p>Dessert and Ices.</p> - - -<h3 class="center"><span class="smcap">Service a la Russe</span> (November).</h3> - -<p>Ox-tail Soup, Soup à la Jardinière.</p> - -<p>Turbot and Lobster Sauce, Crimped -Cod and Oyster Sauce. Stewed Eels, -Soles à la Normandie. Pike and Cream -Sauce. Fried Fileted Soles.</p> - -<p>Filets de Bœuf à la Jardinière, Croquettes -of Game aux Champignons. -Chicken Cutlets, Mutton Cutlets and -Tomato Sauce. Lobster Rissoles, Oyster -Patties. Partridges aux fines Herbes, -Larded Sweetbreads. Roast Beef, Poulets -aux Cressons, Haunch of Mutton, Roast -Turkey, Boiled Turkey and Celery -Sauce, Ham.</p> - -<p>Grouse, Pheasants, Hare. Salad, Artichokes, -Stewed Celery. Italian Cream,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> -Charlotte aux Pommes, Compôte of -Pears. Croûtes madrées aux Fruits, -Pastry, Punch Jelly. Iced Pudding.</p> - -<p>Dessert and Ices.</p> - - -<h3>DORMERS.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—½ -lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef suet, -pepper and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled -rice, 1 egg, bread-crumbs, made gravy. -<i>Mode.</i>—Chop the meat, suet, and rice -finely; mix well together, and add a -high seasoning of pepper and salt, and -roll into sausages; cover them with egg -and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot dripping -of a nice brown. Serve in a dish -with made gravy poured round them, and -a little in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to -fry the sausages. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>DRAUGHT for Summer.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The juice of 1 lemon, a -tumblerful of cold water, pounded sugar -to taste, ½ small teaspoonful of carbonate -of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Squeeze the juice -from the lemon; strain, and add it to the -water, with sufficient pounded sugar to -sweeten the whole nicely. When well -mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and -drink while the mixture is in an effervescing -state.</p> - - -<h3>DRINK, Pleasant, for Warm Weather.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every ½ pint of good -ale allow 1 bottle of ginger beer. <i>Mode.</i>—For -this beverage the ginger beer must -be in an effervescing state, and the beer -not in the least turned or sour. Mix -them together, and drink immediately. -The draught is refreshing and wholesome, -as the ginger corrects the action of the -beer. It does not deteriorate by standing -a little, but, of course, is better -when taken fresh.</p> - - -<h3>DRIPPING, to Clarify.</h3> - -<p>Good and fresh dripping answers very -well for basting everything except game -and poultry, and, when well clarified, -serves for frying nearly as well as lard; it -should be kept in a cool place, and will -remain good some time. To clarify it -put the dripping into a basin, pour over -it boiling water, and keep stirring the -whole to wash away the impurities. Let -it stand to cool, when the water and -dirty sediment will settle at the bottom of -the basin. Remove the dripping, and -put it away in jars or basins for use.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><b>Another Way.</b>—Put the dripping -into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for -a few minutes over a slow fire, and be -careful to skim it well. Let it stand to -cool a little, then strain it through a -piece of muslin into jars for use. Beef -dripping is preferable to any other for -cooking purposes, as, with mutton dripping, -there is liable to be a tallowy taste -and smell.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK, Hashed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast duck, rather -more than 1 pint of weak stock or water, -1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening of -butter and flour, salt and cayenne to -taste, ½ teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, -1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, -½ glass of port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -duck into nice joints, and put the trimmings -into a stewpan; slice and fry the -onion in a little butter; add these to the -trimmings, pour in the above proportion -of weak stock or water, and stew gently -for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, thicken -it with butter and flour, season with salt -and cayenne, and add the remaining ingredients; -boil it up and skim well; lay -in the pieces of duck, and let them get -thoroughly hot through by the side of -the fire, but do not allow them to boil: -they should soak in the gravy for about -½ hour. Garnish with sippets of toasted -bread. The hash may be made richer -by using a stronger and more highly-flavoured -gravy; a little spice or pounded -mace may also be added, when their -flavour is liked. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of cold duck, 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to February; -ducklings from May to August.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 259px;"> -<img src="images/illus-107a.jpg" width="259" height="91" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST DUCK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>DUCKS, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion -stuffing; a little flour. <i>Choosing -and Trussing.</i>—Choose ducks with -plump bellies, and with thick and yellowish -feet. They should be trussed -with the feet on, which should be -scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then -turned up close to the legs. Run a -skewer through the middle of each leg, -after having drawn them as close as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> -possible to the body, to plump up the -breast, passing the same quite through -the body. Cut off the heads and necks, -and the pinions at the first joint; bring -these close to the sides, twist the feet -round, and truss them at the back of -the bird. After the duck is stuffed, -both ends should be secured with string, -so as to keep in the seasoning. <i>Mode.</i>—To -insure ducks being tender, never -dress them the same day they are killed; -and, if the weather permits, they should -hang a day or two. Make a stuffing of -sage and onion sufficient for one duck, -and leave the other unseasoned, as the -flavour is not liked by everybody. Put -them down to a brisk clear fire, and keep -them well basted the whole of the time -they are cooking. A few minutes before -serving, dredge them lightly with flour, -to make them froth and look plump; and -when the steam draws towards the fire, -send them to table hot and quickly, -with a good brown gravy poured <i>round</i>, -but not <i>over</i> the ducks, and a little of -the same in a tureen. When in season, -green peas should invariably accompany -this dish. <i>Time.</i>—Full-grown ducks -from ¾ to 1 hour; ducklings from 25 to -35 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, from 2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -to 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A couple of -ducks for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Ducklings -from April to August; ducks -from November to February.</p> - - - -<h3>DUCK, Roast, to carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 218px;"> -<img src="images/illus-107b.jpg" width="218" height="77" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST DUCK.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 165px;"> -<img src="images/illus-107c.jpg" width="165" height="264" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEG, WING, -AND NECKBONE -OF DUCK.</div> -</div> - -<p>No dishes require so much knowledge -and skill in their carving as do game and -poultry; for it is necessary to be well -acquainted with the anatomy of the bird -in order to place the knife at exactly the -proper point. A tough fowl and an old -goose are sad triers of a carver’s powers -and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of -the good humour of those in the neighbourhood -of the carver; for a sudden tilt -of the dish may eventuate in the placing -of a quantity of the gravy in the lap of -the right or left-hand supporter of the -host. We will endeavour to assist those -who are unacquainted -with the “gentle art -of carving,” and also -those who are but -slightly acquainted -with it, by simply describing -the rules to -follow, and referring -to the distinctly-marked -illustrations -of each dish, which -will further help to -bring light to the -minds of the uninitiated. -If the bird -be a young duckling, -it may be carved like -a fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg -and the wing on either side; but in -cases where the duckling is very small, -it will be as well not to separate the leg -from the wing, as they will not then form -too large a portion for a single serving. -After the legs and wings are disposed -of, the remainder of the duck will be -also carved in the same manner as a -fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced, -as ducklings are tender, and the -joints are easily broken by a little gentle -forcing, or penetrated by the knife. In -cases where the duck is a large bird, -the better plan to pursue is then to carve -it like a goose, that is, by cutting pieces -from the breast in the direction indicated -by the lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing -to carve the slices close to the -wing, and then proceeding upwards from -that to the breastbone. If more should -be wanted than can be obtained from -both sides of the breast, then the legs -and wings must be attacked, in the same -way as is described in connection with -carving a fowl. It may be here remarked, -that as the legs of a duck are -placed far more backward than those of -a fowl, their position causing the waddling -motion of the bird, the thigh-bones -will be found considerably nearer towards -the backbone than in a chicken; this is -the only difference worth mentioning. -The carver should ask each guest if a -portion of stuffing would be agreeable; -and in order to get at this, a cut should -be made below the breast, as shown by -the line from 3 to 4, at the part called -the “apron,” and the spoon inserted.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> -(As described in the recipe, it is an excellent -plan, when a couple of ducks are -served, to have one with, and the other -without, stuffing.) As to the prime parts -of a duck, it has been said that “the -wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer” -are severally the best portions. Some -persons are fond of the feet of the duck; -and, in trussing, these should never be -taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone -are here shown; so that it will be easy -to see the shape they should be when -cut off.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Ducklings are trussed and -roasted in the same manner, and served -with the same sauces and accompaniments. -When in season, do not omit -apple sauce.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK AND PEAS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast duck, 2 oz. of -butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, -1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 pints of thin -gravy, 1, or a small bunch of green -onions, 3 sprigs of parsley, 3 cloves, 1 -pint of young green peas, cayenne and -salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of pounded -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter into a -stewpan; cut up the duck into joints, lay -them in with the slices of lean ham or -bacon; make it brown, then dredge in a -tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well -in before adding the gravy. Put in the -onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and -when it has simmered for ¼ hour, add a -pint of young green peas, and stew gently -for about ½ hour. Season with cayenne, -salt, and sugar; take out the duck, place -it round the dish, and the peas in the -middle. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the cold duck, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from June to August.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK AND PEAS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast duck, ½ pint -of good gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, -½ teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 -teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of -butter rolled in flour, 1½ pint of green -peas. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the duck into -joints, lay it in the gravy, and add a -seasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced -lemon-peel; let this gradually warm -through, but not boil. Throw the peas -into boiling water slightly salted, and -boil them rapidly until tender. Drain -them, stir in the pounded sugar, and the -butter rolled in flour; shake them over -the fire for two or three minutes, and -serve in the centre of the dish, with the -duck laid round. <i>Time.</i>—15 minutes to -boil the peas, when they are full grown. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the cold duck, -10<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from June to August.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK, Stewed, in Turnips.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold duck, ½ pint of -good gravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, -a small bunch of savoury herbs, 1 -blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. of turnips -weighed after being peeled, 2 oz. of -butter, pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the duck into joints, fry the -shalots, carrots, and herbs, and put them -with the duck into the gravy. Cut about -1 lb. of turnips into ½ inch squares, put -the butter into a stewpan, and stew them -till quite tender, which will be in about -½ hour, or rather more; season with -pepper and salt, and serve on the centre -of the dish, with the duck, &c., laid -round. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than ½ hour -to stew the turnips. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of cold duck, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from -November to February.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK, to Ragoût a whole.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large duck, pepper and -salt to taste, good beef gravy, 2 onions -sliced, 4 sage-leaves, a few leaves of lemon -thyme, thickening of butter and flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—After having emptied and singed -the duck, season it inside with pepper -and salt, and truss it. Roast it before a -clear fire for about 20 minutes, and let it -acquire a nice brown colour. Put it into -a stewpan with sufficient well-seasoned -beef gravy to cover it; slice and fry the -onions, and add these, with the sage-leaves -and lemon thyme, both of which -should be finely minced, to the stock. -Simmer gently until the duck is tender; -strain, skim, and thicken the gravy with -a little butter and flour; boil it up, pour -over the duck, and serve. When in -season, about 1½ pint of young green peas, -boiled separately, and put in the ragoût, -very much improve this dish. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes -to stew it. <i>Average cost</i>, from 2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> to -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to February; -ducklings from April to August.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>DUCK, Wild, Hashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -wild duck, 1 pint of good brown gravy, -2 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 1 glass -of claret, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices -to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or -Seville orange-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -remains of the duck into neat joints, put -them into a stewpan, with all the above ingredients; -let them get gradually hot by -the side of the fire, and occasionally stir -the contents; when on the point of boiling, -serve, and garnish the dish with sippets -of toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—About ¼ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to February.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK, Wild, Ragoût of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, -1 pint of stock (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap"><a href="#STOCKS">Stock</a></span>), 1 glass of port -wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the -juice of ½ lemon, cayenne and salt to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Ducks that have been -dressed and left from the preceding day -will answer for this dish. Cut them into -joints, reserve the legs, wings, and -breasts until wanted; put the trimmings -into a stewpan with the shalots and -stock, and let them simmer for about ½ -hour, and strain the gravy. Put the -butter into a stewpan; when melted, -dredge in a little flour, and pour in the -gravy made from the bones; give it one -boil, and strain it again; add the wine, -lemon-juice, and cayenne; lay in the -pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually -warm through, but do not allow -it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The -gravy should not be too thick, and should -be very highly seasoned. The squeeze -of a Seville orange is a great improvement -to this dish. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour -to make the gravy; ¼ hour for the duck -gradually to warm through. <i>Seasonable</i> -from November to February.</p> - - -<h3>DUCK, Wild, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Wild duck, flour, butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Carefully pluck and draw them; -cut off the heads close to the necks, -leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and -do not cut off the feet; some twist each -leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on -each side of the breast; others truss -them as shown in our illustration. Roast -the birds before a quick fire, and, when -they are first put down, let them remain -for 5 minutes without basting (this -will keep the gravy in); afterwards baste -plentifully with butter, and a few minutes -before serving dredge them lightly with -flour; baste well, and send them to table -nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If -overdone, the birds will lose their flavour. -Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or -orange gravy, and send to table with -them a cut lemon. To take off the fishy -taste which wild fowl sometimes have, -baste them for a few minutes with hot -water to which have been added an onion -and a little salt; then take away the pan, -and baste with butter. <i>Time.</i>—When -liked under-dressed, 20 to 25 minutes; -well done, 25 to 35 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> to 5<i>s.</i> the couple.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 256px;"> -<img src="images/illus-109a.jpg" width="256" height="92" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST WILD DUCK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>DUCK, Wild, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>As game is almost universally served -as a dainty, and not as a dish to stand -the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, -these dishes are not usually cut -up entirely, -but only -those parts -are served -of each -which are -considered -the best flavoured and the primest. Of -wild fowl, the breast alone is considered -by epicures worth eating, and slices are -cut from this, in the direction indicated -by the lines, from 1 to 2; if necessary, -the leg and the wing can be taken off by -passing the knife from 3 to 4, and by -generally following the directions described -for carving boiled fowl.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 245px;"> -<img src="images/illus-109b.jpg" width="245" height="78" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">WILD DUCK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>DUMPLINGS, Sussex, or Hard.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ pint of -water, ½ saltspoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the flour and water together to a -smooth paste, previously adding a small -quantity of salt. Form this into small -round dumplings; drop them into boiling -water, and boil from ½ to ¾ hour. -They maybe served with roast or boiled -meat; in the latter case, they may be -cooked with the meat, but should be -dropped into the water when it is quite -boiling. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. <i>Sufficient</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> -for 10 or 12 dumplings. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>DUTCH FLUMMERY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ oz. of isinglass, the -rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 pint of water, -4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or -raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind -into a lined saucepan, and simmer -gently until the isinglass is dissolved; -strain this into a basin, stir in the eggs, -which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice, -which should be strained, and the -wine; sweeten to taste with pounded -sugar, mix all well together, pour it into -a jug, set this jug in a saucepan of boiling -water over the fire, and keep stirring -it one way until it thickens; but <i>take -care that it does not boil</i>. Strain it into -a mould that has been oiled or laid in -water for a short time, and put it in a -cool place to set. A tablespoonful of -brandy stirred in just before it is poured -into the mould, improves the flavour of -this dish: it is better if it is made the -day before it is required for table. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour to simmer the isinglass; about -¼ hour to stir the mixture over the fire. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, if made with sherry; -less with raisin-wine. <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a -quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>EEL BROTH.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of eel, a small -bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley, -½ onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, -2 cloves, salt and pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—After -having cleaned and skinned the -eel, cut it into small pieces, and put it -into a stewpan with the other ingredients; -simmer gently until the liquid is -reduced to nearly half, carefully removing -the scum as it rises. Strain it -through a hair sieve: put it by in a cool -place, and, when wanted, take off all the -fat on the top; warm up as much as is -required, and serve with sippets of toasted -bread. This is a very nutritious broth, -and easy of digestion. <i>Time.</i>—To be -simmered until the liquor is reduced to -half. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -make 1½ pint of broth. <i>Seasonable</i> from -June to March.</p> - - -<h3>EEL PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of eels, a little -chopped parsley, 1 shalot, grated nutmeg, -pepper and salt to taste, the juice -of ½ a lemon, small quantity of forcemeat, -¼ pint of Béchamel; puff paste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Skin and wash the eels, cut them -in pieces 2 inches long, and line the -bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. -Put in the eels, and sprinkle them with the -parsley, shalots, nutmeg, seasoning, and -lemon-juice, and cover with puff paste. -Bake for 1 hour, or rather more; make -the Béchamel hot, and pour it into the -pie. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 1 hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>EEL SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, -2 oz. of butter, 3 blades of mace, 1 bunch -of sweet herbs, ¼ oz. of peppercorns, salt -to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, ¼ pint -of cream, 2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the eels, cut them into thin slices, -and put them into the stewpan with the -butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, -then pour the water to them, and -add the onion, cut in thin slices, the -herbs, mace, and seasoning. Simmer till -the eels are tender, but do not break the -fish. Take them out carefully, mix the -flour smoothly to a batter with the cream, -bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour or rather more. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -from June to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This soup may be flavoured -differently by omitting the cream, and -adding a little ketchup or Harvey’s -sauce.</p> - - -<h3>EELS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 small eels, sufficient -water to cover them; a large bunch of -parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose small eels for -boiling; put them into a stewpan with the -parsley, and just sufficient water to cover -them; simmer till tender. Take them -out, pour a little parsley and butter over -them, and serve some in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Seasonable</i> from June to March. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons.</p> - - -<h3>EEL, Collared.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large eel; pepper and -salt to taste; 2 blades of mace, 2 cloves, -a little allspice very finely pounded, 6 -leaves of sage, and a small bunch of -herbs minced very small. <i>Mode.</i>—Bone -the eel and skin it; split it, and sprinkle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> -it over with the ingredients, taking care -that the spices are very finely pounded, -and the herbs chopped very small. Roll -it up and bind with a broad piece of tape, -and boil it in water, mixed with a little -salt and vinegar, till tender. It may either -be served whole or cut in slices; and -when cold, the eel should be kept in the -liquor it was boiled in, but with a little -more vinegar put to it. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>EELS, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of eels, 1 egg, a few -bread-crumbs, hot lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the eels, cut them into pieces 3 inches -long, trim and wipe them very dry; -dredge with flour, rub them over with -egg, and cover with bread-crumbs; fry -a nice brown in hot lard. If the eels are -small, curl them round, instead of cutting -them up. Garnish with fried parsley. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes or rather less. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from -June to March.</p> - - -<h3>EELS, en Matelote.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 or 6 young onions, a -few mushrooms, when obtainable; salt, -pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 laurel -leaf, ½ pint of port wine, ½ pint of medium -stock, butter and flour to thicken; 2 lbs. -of eels. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the stewpan with -butter, dredge in a little flour, add the -onions cut very small, slightly brown -them, and put in all the other ingredients. -Wash, and cut up the eels into -pieces 3 inches long; put them in the -stewpan, and simmer for ½ hour. Make -round the dish a border of croûtons, or -pieces of toasted bread; arrange the eels -in a pyramid in the centre, and pour -over the sauce. Serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> for this -quantity. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>EELS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of eels, 1 pint of -rich strong stock, 1 onion, 3 cloves, a -piece of lemon-peel, 1 glass of port or -Madeira, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream; -thickening of flour; cayenne and lemon-juice -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash and skin -the eels, and cut them into pieces about -3 inches long; pepper and salt them, and -lay them in a stewpan; pour over the -stock, add the onion stuck with cloves, -the lemon-peel, and the wine. Stew -gently for ½ hour, or rather more, and -lift them carefully on a dish, which keep -hot. Strain the gravy, stir the cream, -sufficient flour to thicken; mix altogether, -boil for 2 minutes, and add the -cayenne and lemon-juice; pour over the -eels and serve. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i> for this quantity, 2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from June to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or -6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>EELS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of middling-sized -eels, 1 pint of medium stock, ¼ pint of -port wine; salt, cayenne, and mace to -taste; 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, -the juice of ½ a lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin, -wash, and clean the eels, thoroughly; -cut them into pieces 3 inches -long, and put them into strong salt and -water for 1 hour; dry them well with a -cloth, and fry them brown. Put the -stock on with the heads and tails of the -eels, and simmer for ½ hour; strain it, -and add all the other ingredients. Put -in the eels, and stew gently for ½ hour, -when serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from June to -March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>EELS, à la Tartare.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of eels, 1 carrot, 1 -onion, a little flour, 1 glass of sherry; -salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread-crumbs, -1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the butter on the -bottom of the stewpan; cut up the carrot -and onion, and stir them over the fire for -5 minutes; dredge in a little flour, add -the wine and seasoning, and boil for ½ an -hour. Skin and wash the eels, cut them -into pieces, put them to the other ingredients, -and simmer till tender. When -they are done, take them out, let them -get cold, cover them with egg and bread-crumbs, -and fry them of a nice brown. -Put them on a dish, pour sauce piquante -over, and serve them hot. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i>, exclusive of -the sauce piquante. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS.</h3> - -<p>There is only one opinion as to the -nutritive properties of eggs, although the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> -qualities of those belonging to different -birds vary somewhat. Those of the -common hen are most esteemed as delicate -food, particularly when “new-laid.” -The quality of eggs depends -much upon the food given to the hen. -Eggs in general are considered most -easily digestible when little subjected to -the art of cookery. The lightest way -of dressing them is by poaching, which -is effected by putting them for a minute -or two into brisk boiling water: this coagulates -the external white, without doing -the inner part too much. Eggs are much -better when new-laid than a day or two -afterwards. The usual time allotted for -boiling eggs in the shell is 3 to 3¾ minutes: -less time than that in boiling -water will not be sufficient to solidify the -white, and more will make the yolk hard -and less digestible: it is very difficult -to <i>guess</i> accurately as to the time. Great -care should be employed in putting them -into the water, to prevent cracking the -shell, which inevitably causes a portion -of the white to exude, and lets water into -the egg. For the purpose of placing eggs -in water, always choose a <i>large</i> spoon in -preference to a small one. Eggs are often -beaten up raw in nutritive beverages.</p> - -<p>The eggs of the <i>turkey</i> are almost as -mild as those of the hen; the egg of the -<i>goose</i> is large, but well-tasted. <i>Ducks’ -eggs</i> have a rich flavour; the albumen is -slightly transparent, or bluish, when set -or coagulated by boiling, which requires -less time than hens’ eggs. <i>Guinea-fowl -eggs</i> are smaller and more delicate than -those of the hen. Eggs of <i>wild fowl</i> are -generally coloured, often spotted; and -the taste generally partakes somewhat -of the bird they belong to. Those of -land birds that are eaten, as the <i>plover</i>, -<i>lapwing</i>, <i>ruff</i>, &c., are in general much -esteemed; but those of <i>sea-fowl</i> have, -more or less, a strong fishy taste. The -eggs of the <i>turtle</i> are very numerous: -they consist of yolk only, without shell, -and are delicious.</p> - -<p>When fresh eggs are dropped into a -vessel <i>full</i> of boiling water, they crack, -because the eggs being well filled, the -shells give way to the efforts of the interior -fluids, dilated by heat. If the -volume of hot water be small, the shells -do not crack, because its temperature is -reduced by the eggs before the interior -dilation can take place. Stale eggs, -again, do not crack because the air inside -is easily compressed.</p> - - -<h3>EGG BALLS, for Soups and made -Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 eggs, a little flour; -seasoning to taste of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -6 eggs for 20 minutes, strip off the shells, -take the yolks and pound them in a -mortar. Beat the yolks of the 2 uncooked -eggs; add them, with a little flour and -salt, to those pounded; mix all well together, -and roll into balls. Boil them -before they are put into the soup or other -dish they may be intended for.</p> - - -<h3>EGG SAUCE, for Salt Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, ½ pint of melted -butter, when liked, a very little lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the eggs until quite -hard, which will be in about 20 minutes, -and put them into cold water for ½ hour. -Strip off the shells, chop the eggs into -small pieces, not, however, too fine. -Make the melted butter very smooth, -and, when boiling, stir in the eggs, and -serve very hot. Lemon-juice may be -added at pleasure. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes -to boil the eggs. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—This quantity for 3 or 4 lbs. -of fish.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When a thicker sauce is required, -use one or two more eggs to the -same quantity of melted butter.</p> - - -<h3>EGG SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A tablespoonful of flour, -4 eggs, 2 small blades of finely-pounded -mace, 2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of -cold stock, and put in the eggs; throw -them into boiling stock, stirring all the -time. Simmer for ¼ of an hour. Season -and serve with a French roll in the tureen -or fried sippets of bread. <i>Time.</i>—½ an -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 11<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>EGG WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 egg, 1 tablespoonful -and ½ glass of cold water, 1 glass of -sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the egg, mixing -with it a tablespoonful of cold water; -make the wine-and-water hot, but not -boiling; pour it on the egg, stirring all -the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to -sweeten the mixture, and a little grated -nutmeg; put all into a very clean saucepan, -set it on a gentle fire, and stir the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> -contents one way until they thicken, -but <i>do not allow them to boil</i>. Serve in a -glass with sippets of toasted bread or -plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is -not warmed, the mixture will be found -easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant -a drink. <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 person.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, to Boil for Breakfast, Salads, -&c.</h3> - -<p>Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, -or boiled too soon after they are laid; -but rather a longer time should be allowed -for boiling a new-laid egg than for -one that is three or four days old. Have -ready a saucepan of boiling water; put -the eggs into it gently with a spoon, -letting the spoon touch the bottom of the -saucepan before it is withdrawn, that the -egg may not fall, and consequently crack. -For those who like eggs lightly boiled, 3 -minutes will be found sufficient; 3¾ to 4 -minutes will be ample time to set the -white nicely; and, if liked hard, 6 to 7 minutes -will not be found too long. Should -the eggs be unusually large, as those of -black Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow -an extra ½ minute for them. Eggs for -salads should be boiled from 10 minutes -to ¼ hour, and should be placed in a basin -of cold water for a few minutes; they -should then be rolled on the table with -the hand, and the shell will peel off easily. -<i>Time.</i>—To boil eggs lightly, for invalids -or children, 3 minutes; to boil eggs to -suit the generality of tastes, 3¾ to 4 -minutes; to boil eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; -for salads, 10 to 15 minutes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 279px;"> -<img src="images/illus-113.jpg" width="279" height="235" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">EGG-STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST-TABLE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>EGGS, Buttered.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz. of -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure the eggs new-laid -if possible; break them into a basin, -and beat them well; put the butter into -another basin, which place in boiling -water, and stir till the butter is melted. -Pour that and the eggs into a lined -saucepan; hold it over a gentle fire, and, -as the mixture begins to warm, pour it -two or three times into the basin, and -back again, that the two ingredients may -be well incorporated. Keep stirring the -eggs and butter one way until they are -hot, <i>without boiling</i>, and serve on hot -buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed -to boil, it will curdle, and so be entirely -spoiled. <i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes to -make the eggs hot. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow a slice to each person. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, to Choose.</h3> - -<p>In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to -the large end of the egg, and, if it feels -warm, it is new, and may be relied on as -a fresh egg. Another mode of ascertaining -their freshness is to hold them -before a lighted candle or to the light, -and, if the egg looks clear, it will be -tolerably good; if thick, it is stale; and -if there is a black spot attached to the -shell, it is worthless. No egg should be -used for culinary purposes with the -slightest taint in it, as it will render -perfectly useless those with which it has -been mixed. Eggs that are purchased, -and that cannot be relied on, should -always be broken in a cup, and then put -into a basin: by this means stale or bad -eggs may be easily rejected, without -wasting the others.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, Ducks’.</h3> - -<p>Ducks’ eggs are usually so strongly -flavoured that, plainly boiled, they are -not good for eating; they answer, however, -very well for various culinary preparations -where eggs are required; such -as custards, &c. &c. Being so large -and highly-flavoured, 1 duck’s egg will -go as far as 2 small hen’s eggs, besides -making whatever they are mixed with -exceedingly rich. They also are admirable -when used in puddings.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, ¼ lb. of lard, -butter or clarified dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Place -a delicately-clean frying-pan over -a gentle fire; put in the fat, and allow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> -it to come to the boiling-point. Break -the eggs into cups, slip them into the -boiling fat, -and let them -remain until -the whites are -delicately -set; and, whilst they are frying, ladle -a little of the fat over them. Take them -up with a slice, drain them for a minute -from their greasy moisture, trim them -neatly, and serve on slices of fried bacon -or ham; or the eggs may be placed in the -middle of the dish, with the bacon put -round as a garnish. <i>Time.</i>—2 to 3 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each; 2<i>d.</i> when -scarce. <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 227px;"> -<img src="images/illus-114.jpg" width="227" height="67" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FRIED EGGS ON BACON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>EGGS à la Maître d’Hôtel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 -tablespoonful of flour, ½ pint of milk, -pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful -of minced parsley, the juice of ½ lemon, -6 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour and half -the butter into a stewpan; stir them -over the fire until the mixture thickens; -pour in the milk, which should be boiling; -add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and -simmer the whole for 5 minutes. Put -the remainder of the butter into the -sauce, and add the minced parsley; then -boil the eggs hard, strip off the shell, cut -the eggs into quarters, and put them on -a dish. Bring the sauce to the boiling-point, -add the lemon-juice, pour over the -eggs and serve. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to -boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, to Pickle.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—16 eggs, 1 quart of -vinegar, ½ oz. of black pepper, ½ oz. of -Jamaica pepper, ½ oz. of ginger. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the eggs for 12 minutes, then dip -them into cold water, and take off the -shells. Put the vinegar, with the pepper -and ginger, into a stewpan, and let it -simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the -eggs in a jar, pour over them the vinegar, -&c., boiling hot, and, when cold, tie them -down with bladder to exclude the air. -This pickle will be ready for use in a -month. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable.</i>—This should be -made about Easter, as at this time eggs -are plentiful and cheap. A store of -pickled eggs will be found very useful -and ornamental in serving with many -first and second course dishes.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, -served on the Dish in which they -are Cooked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, -pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Butter -a dish rather thickly with good fresh -butter; melt it, break the eggs into it -the same as for poaching, sprinkle them -with white pepper and fine salt, and put -the remainder of the butter, cut into -very small pieces, on the top of them. -Put the dish on a hot plate, or in the -oven, or before the fire, and let it remain -until the whites become set, but not hard, -when serve immediately, placing the dish -they were cooked in on another. To -hasten the cooking of the eggs, a salamander -may be held over them for a -minute; but great care must be taken -that they are not too much done. This -is an exceedingly nice dish, and one very -easily prepared for breakfast. <i>Time.</i>—3 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 2 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, Plovers’.</h3> - -<p>Plovers’ eggs are usually served boiled -hard, and sent to table in a napkin, -either hot or cold; they may also be -shelled, and served the same as eggs à la -Tripe, with a good Béchamel sauce, or -brown gravy, poured over them. They -are also used for decorating salads, the -beautiful colour of the white being generally -so much admired.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, Poached.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Eggs, water. To every -pint of water allow 1 tablespoonful of -vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Eggs for poaching -should be perfectly fresh, but not quite -new-laid; those that are about 36 hours -old are the best for the purpose. If -quite new-laid, the white is so milky it -is almost impossible to set it; and, on -the other hand, if the egg be at all stale, -it is equally difficult to poach it nicely. -Strain some boiling water into a deep -clean frying-pan; break the egg into a -cup without damaging the yolk, and, -when the water boils, remove the pan to -the side of the fire, and gently slip the -egg into it. Place the pan over a gentle -fire, and keep the water simmering until -the white looks nicely set, when the egg -is ready. Take it up gently with a slice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> -cut away the ragged edges of the white, -and serve either on toasted bread or on -slices of ham -or bacon, or on -spinach, &c. A -poached egg -should not -be overdone, -as its appearance and taste will be quite -spoiled if the yolk be allowed to harden. -When the egg is slipped into the water, -the white should be gathered together, -to keep it a little in form, or the cup -should be turned over it for ½ minute. -To poach an egg to perfection is rather a -difficult operation; so, for inexperienced -cooks, a tin egg-poacher may be purchased, -which greatly facilitates this -manner of dressing eggs. Our illustration -clearly shows what it is: it consists -of a tin plate with a handle, with a space -for three perforated cups. An egg -should be broken into each cup, and the -machine then placed in a stewpan of -boiling water, which has been previously -strained. When the whites of the eggs -appear set, they are done, and should -then be carefully slipped on to the toast -or spinach, or with whatever they are -served. In poaching eggs in a frying-pan, -never do more than four at a time; -and, when a little vinegar is liked mixed -with the water in which the eggs are -done, use the above proportion. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -to 3½ minutes, according to the size of -the egg. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2 eggs to -each person. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time, -but less plentiful in winter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 208px;"> -<img src="images/illus-115a.jpg" width="208" height="65" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">EGGS POACHED ON TOAST.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 232px;"> -<img src="images/illus-115b.jpg" width="232" height="184" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">TIN EGG-POACHER.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>EGGS, Poached, with Cream.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful -of salt, 4 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, -4 fresh eggs, ½ gill of cream, salt, pepper, -and pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz. of -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the water, vinegar, -and salt into a frying-pan, and break -each egg into a separate cup; bring the -water, &c., to boil, and slip the eggs -gently into it without breaking the yolks. -Simmer them from 3 to 4 minutes, but -not longer, and, with a slice, lift them -out on to a hot dish, and trim the edges. -Empty the pan of its contents, put in -the cream, add a seasoning to taste of -pepper, salt, and pounded sugar; bring -the whole to the boiling-point; then add -the butter, broken into small pieces; -toss the pan round and round till the -butter is melted; pour it over the eggs, -and serve. To insure the eggs not being -spoiled whilst the cream, &c. is preparing, -it is a good plan to warm the cream with -the butter, &c. before the eggs are -poached, so that it may be poured over -them immediately after they are dished. -<i>Time.</i>—3 to 4 minutes to poach the -eggs, 5 minutes to warm the cream. -<i>Average cost</i> for the above quantity, 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 2 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, Scotch.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls -of forcemeat, hot lard, ½ pint of good -brown gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the eggs for -10 minutes; strip them from the shells, -and cover them with forcemeat, or substitute -pounded anchovies for the ham. -Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling -lard, drain them before the fire from -their greasy moisture, dish them, and -pour round from ¼ to ½ pint of good -brown gravy. To enhance the appearance -of the eggs, they may be rolled in -beaten egg and sprinkled with bread-crumbs; -but this is scarcely necessary if -they are carefully fried. The flavour of -the ham or the anchovy in the forcemeat -must preponderate, as it should be very -relishing. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil -the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, Snow, or Œufs à la Neige -(a very pretty Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, ¾ pint of milk, -pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of -vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a -saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten -it nicely, and the rind of ½ lemon. Let -this steep by the side of the fire for -½ hour, when take out the peel; separate -the whites from the yolks of the eggs, -and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff -froth, or until there is no liquid remaining;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> -bring the milk to the boiling-point, -drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a -time, and keep turning the eggs until -sufficiently cooked. Then place them -on a glass dish, beat up the yolks of the -eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little -more sugar, and strain this mixture into -a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of -boiling water, and stir it one way until -the mixture thickens, but do not allow -it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this -custard over the eggs, when they should -rise to the surface. They make an exceedingly -pretty addition to a supper, -and should be put in a cold place after -being made. When they are flavoured -with vanilla or orange-flowered water, it -is not necessary to steep the milk. A -few drops of the essence of either may -be poured into the milk just before the -whites are poached. In making the -custard, a little more flavouring and -sugar should always be added. <i>Time.</i>—About -2 minutes to poach the whites; -8 minutes to stir the custard. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, to keep Fresh for several -Weeks.</h3> - -<p>Have ready a large saucepan, capable -of holding 3 or 4 quarts, full of boiling -water. Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, -say 20 at a time, and hold them in the -water (which must be kept boiling) <i>for</i> -20 <i>seconds</i>. Proceed in this manner till -you have done as many eggs as you wish -to preserve; then pack them away in -sawdust. We have tried this method of -preserving eggs, and can vouch for its -excellence. They will be found, at the -end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough -for culinary purposes; and although the -white may be a little tougher than that -of a new-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly -the same. Many persons keep eggs for -a long time by smearing the shells with -butter or sweet oil: they should then be -packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, -and the eggs not allowed to touch each -other. Eggs for storing should be collected -in fine weather, and should not be -more than 24 hours old when they are -packed away, or their flavour, when -used, cannot be relied on. Another -simple way of preserving eggs is to -immerse them in lime-water soon after -they have been laid, and then to put the -vessel containing the lime-water in a -cellar or cool outhouse. <i>Seasonable.</i>—The -best time for preserving eggs is -from April to September.</p> - - -<h3>EGGS, à la Tripe.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 eggs, ¾ pint of Béchamel -sauce, dessertspoonful of finely-minced -parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the eggs hard; -put them into cold water, peel them, -take out the yolks whole, and shred the -whites. Make ¾ pint of Béchamel sauce; -add the parsley, and, when the sauce is -quite hot, put the yolks of the eggs into -the middle of the dish, and the shred -whites round them; pour over the sauce, -and garnish with leaves of puff-paste or -fried croûtons. There is no necessity -for putting the eggs into the saucepan -with the Béchamel; the sauce, being -quite hot, will warm the eggs sufficiently. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil the eggs. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ELDER WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 3 gallons of -water allow 1 peck of elderberries; to -every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs. of sugar, -½ oz. of ground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb. of -good Turkey raisins; ¼ pint of brandy -to every gallon of wine. To every 9 gallons -of wine, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of -fresh brewer’s yeast. <i>Mode.</i>—Pour the -water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, -which should be picked from the stalks, -and let these stand covered for 24 hours; -then strain the whole through a sieve or -bag, breaking the fruit to express all the -juice from it. Measure the liquor, and -to every gallon allow the above proportion -of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar with -the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, -skimming the liquor the whole time; let -it stand until milk-warm, then put it into -a clean dry cask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls -of good fresh yeast to every 9 gallons -of wine. Let it ferment for about a -fortnight; then add the brandy, bung -up the cask, and let it stand some -months before it is bottled, when it will -be found excellent. A bunch of hops -suspended to a string from the bung, -some persons say, will preserve the wine -good for several years. Elder wine is -usually mulled, and served with sippets -of toasted bread and a little grated nutmeg. -<i>Time.</i>—To stand covered for 24 -hours; to be boiled 1 hour. <i>Average<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> -cost</i>, when made at home, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per -gallon. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in September.</p> - - -<h3>ENDIVE.</h3> - -<p>This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, -makes an excellent addition to -winter salad, when lettuces and other -winter salads are not obtainable. It is -usually placed in the centre of the dish, -and looks remarkably pretty with slices -of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled -celery placed round it, so that the colours -contrast nicely. In preparing it, carefully -wash and cleanse it free from insects, -which are generally found near the heart; -remove any decayed or dead leaves, and -dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth. -This vegetable may also be served hot, -stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; -but when dressed thus, the sauce it is -stewed in should not be very highly -seasoned, as that would destroy and -overpower the flavour of the vegetable. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> per head. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 -head for a salad for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from November to March.</p> - - -<h3>ENDIVE, à la Française.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 heads of endive, 1 pint -of broth, 3 oz. of fresh butter; salt, -pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash and boil the endive as in -the preceding recipe; chop it rather -fine, and put into a stewpan with the -broth; boil over a brisk fire until the -sauce is all reduced; then put in the -butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg -(the latter must be very sparingly used); -mix all well together, bring it to the -boiling point, and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer -in the broth. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> per head. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from November to March.</p> - - -<h3>ENDIVE, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 heads of endive, salt -and water, 1 pint of broth, thickening of -butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -a small lump of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -and free the endive thoroughly -from insects, remove the green part of -the leaves, and put it into boiling water, -slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 -minutes; then take it out, drain it till -there is no water remaining, and chop it -very fine. Put it into a stewpan with -the broth; add a little salt and a lump -of sugar, and boil until the endive is -perfectly tender. When done, which -may be ascertained by squeezing a piece -between the thumb and finger, add a -thickening of butter and flour and the -lemon-juice; let the sauce boil up, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil, 5 -minutes to simmer in the broth. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> per head. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from November to -March.</p> - - -<h3>ESPAGNOLE, or Brown Spanish -Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. -of veal, 1½ pint of white stock, 2 or 3 -sprigs of parsley, ½ a bay-leaf, 2 or 3 -sprigs of savoury herbs, 6 green onions, -3 shalots, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 -glasses of sherry or Madeira, thickening -of butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the -ham and veal into small square pieces, -and put them into a stewpan. Moisten -these with ½ pint of the stock, and -simmer till the bottom of the stewpan is -covered with a nicely-coloured glaze, -when put in a few more spoonfuls to -detach it. Add the remainder of the -stock, with the spices, herbs, shalots, -and onions, and simmer very gently for -1 hour. Strain and skim off every particle -of fat, and, when required for use, -thicken with butter and flour, or with -a little roux. Add the wine, and, if -necessary, a seasoning of cayenne; when -it will be ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> per pint.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The wine in this sauce may be -omitted, and an onion sliced and fried of -a nice brown substituted for it. This -sauce or gravy is used for many dishes, -and with most people is a general -favourite.</p> - - -<h3>FEBRUARY—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu4.jpg" width="284" height="233" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Hare Soup, -removed by -Turbot and Oyster Sauce. - -Fried Eels. - -Fried Whitings. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Oyster Soup, -removed by -Crimped Cod à la Maître -d’Hôtel. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu4b.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Roast Fowls, garnished with -Water-cresses. - -Braised Capon. -Boiled Ham, garnished. - -Boiled Fowls and -White Sauce. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Pâté Chaud. -Haunch of Mutton. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu4c.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Lobster Patties. - -Lark Pudding. - -Filets de Perdrix. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Fricasseed Chicken. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu4d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> -<p class="courses"> -Meringues. - -Ducklings, -removed by -Iced Pudding. - -Cheesecakes. - -Orange Jelly. - -Coffee Cream. - -Clear Jelly. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Victoria -Sandwiches. - -Blancmange. - -Gâteau de -Pommes. - -Partridges, -removed by -Cabinet Pudding. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Soup à la reine; clear -gravy soup; brill and lobster sauce; fried -smelts. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lobster rissoles; beef -palates; pork cutlets à la soubise; grilled -mushrooms. <i>Second Course.</i>—Braised -turkey; haunch of mutton; boiled capon -and oysters; tongue, garnished with -tufts of broccoli; vegetables and salads. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Wild ducks; plovers; -orange jelly; clear jelly; Charlotte Russe; -Nesselrode pudding; gâteau de riz; sea-kale; -maids of honour; desert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Palestine soup; John -Dory, with Dutch sauce; red mullet, -with sauce Génoise. <i>Entrées.</i>—Sweetbread -cutlets, with poivrade sauce; fowl -au Béchamel. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -saddle of mutton; boiled capon and -oysters; boiled tongue, garnished with -Brussels sprouts. <i>Third Course.</i>—Guinea-fowls; -ducklings; pain de rhubarb; -orange jelly; strawberry cream; cheesecakes; -almond pudding; fig pudding; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Mock turtle soup; fillets -of turbot à la crême; fried filleted -soles and anchovy sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Larded -fillets of rabbits; tendrons de -veau with purée of tomatoes. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Stewed rump of beef à la Jardinière; -roast fowls; boiled ham. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Roast pigeons or larks; rhubarb -tartlets; meringues; clear jelly; -cream; ice pudding; soufflé; dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinners for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Rice soup; red mullet, -with Génoise sauce; fried smelts. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Fowl pudding; sweetbreads. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast turkey and sausages; -boiled leg of pork; pease pudding. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Lemon jelly; Charlotte -à la vanille; maids of honour; plum-pudding, -removed by ice pudding; -dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Spring soup; boiled -turbot and lobster sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Fricasseed -rabbit; oyster patties. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Boiled round of beef and marrow-bones; -roast fowls, garnished with -water-cresses and rolled bacon; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Marrow pudding; -cheesecakes; tartlets of greengage jam; -lemon cream; rhubarb tart; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; fried -whitings; stewed eels. <i>Entrées.</i>—Poulet -à la Marengo; breast of veal stuffed and -rolled. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast leg of -pork and apple sauce; boiled capon and -oysters; tongue, garnished with tufts of -broccoli. <i>Third Course.</i>—Wild ducks; -lobster salad; Charlotte aux pommes; -pain de rhubarb; vanilla cream; orange -jelly; dessert.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Ox-tail soup; cod à la -crême; fried soles. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lark pudding; -fowl scollops. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -leg of mutton; boiled turkey and -celery sauce; pigeon pie; small ham, -boiled and garnished; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Game, when liked; tartlets of -raspberry jam; vol-au-vent of rhubarb; -Swiss cream; cabinet pudding; broccoli -and sea-kale; dessert.</p> - - -<h3>FEBRUARY, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Ox-tail soup. 2. Roast -beef, Yorkshire pudding, broccoli, potatoes. -3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. -Cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Fried soles, plain melted -butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold roast beef, -mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of -plum-pudding cut in slices, warmed, and -served with sifted sugar sprinkled over -it. Cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. The remains of ox-tail -soup from Sunday. 2. Pork cutlets -with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. -Rolled jam pudding. Cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Boiled haddock and -plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak -pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, -blancmange, garnished with jam.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Boiled leg of pork, -greens, potatoes, pease pudding. 2. -Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Pea-soup made with liquor -that the pork was boiled in. 2. Cold -pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Broiled herrings and -mustard sauce. 2. Haricot mutton. -3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet -pudding or with cheese.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled -leg of mutton and caper sauce, mashed -turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. -Damson tart made with bottled fruit, -ratafia pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. The remainder of fowl -curried and served with rice; rump-steaks -and oyster sauce, cold mutton. -2. Rolled jam pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup made -with liquor the mutton was boiled in on -Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire -pudding, broccoli, and potatoes. 3. -Cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted -butter. Cold beef and mashed potatoes; -if there is any cold mutton left, cut it -into neat slices and warm it in a little -caper sauce. 2. Apple tart.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Boiled rabbit and onion -sauce, stewed beef and vegetables, made -with the remains of cold beef and bones. -2. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Roast leg of pork, sage -and onions and apple sauce, greens and -potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs -instead of pudding. Cheese and water-cresses.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak and kidney -pudding, cold pork and mashed potatoes. -2. Baked rice pudding.</p> - - -<h3>FEBRUARY, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Barbel, brill, carp; cod may be -bought, but is not so good as in January; -crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, -haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, -mussels, oysters, perch, pike, place, -prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, -sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, -whiting.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, house lamb, mutton, -pork, veal.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Capons, chickens, ducklings, -tame and wild pigeons, pullets with -eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not -in full season.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Grouse, hares, partridges, -pheasants, snipes, woodcock.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Beetroot, broccoli (purple -and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, -carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers -(forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, -parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, -turnips—various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples (golden and Dutch -pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, -pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried -fruits (foreign), such as almonds and -raisins; French and Spanish plums; -prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.</p> - - -<h3>FENNEL SAUCE, for Mackerel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of melted butter, -rather more than 1 tablespoonful of -chopped fennel. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the melted -butter very smooth, chop the fennel -rather small, carefully cleansing it from -any grit or dirt, and put it to the butter -when this is on the point of boiling. -Simmer for a minute or two, and serve -in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—2 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to serve with 5 or 6 -mackerel.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>FIG PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of figs, 1 lb. of -suet, ½ lb. of flour, ½ lb. of bread-crumbs, -2 eggs, milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the figs into -small pieces, grate the bread finely, and -chop the suet very small; mix these well -together, add the flour, the eggs, which -should be well beaten, and sufficient milk -to form the whole into a stiff paste; butter -a mould or basin, press the pudding -into it very closely, tie it down with a -cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or rather -longer; turn it out of the mould, and -serve with melted butter, wine-sauce, or -cream. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours, or longer. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable for a winter -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>FIG PUDDING (Staffordshire -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of figs, 6 oz. of suet, -¾ lb. of flour, milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the -suet finely, mix with it the flour, and -make these into a smooth paste with -milk; roll it out to the thickness of about -½ inch, cut the figs in small pieces, and -strew them over the paste; roll it up, -make the ends secure, tie the pudding -in a cloth, and boil it from 1½ to 2 hours. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FIGS, Compôte of Green.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of syrup, 1½ pint -of green figs, the rind of ½ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -a syrup as directed, boiling with -it the lemon-rind, and carefully remove -all the scum as it rises. Put in the figs, -and simmer them very slowly until tender; -dish them on a glass dish; reduce -the syrup by boiling it quickly for 5 -minutes; take out the lemon-peel, pour -the syrup over the figs, and the compôte, -when cold, will be ready for table. A -little port wine, or lemon-juice, added -just before the figs are done, will be -found an improvement. <i>Time.</i>—2 to 3 -hours to stew the figs. <i>Average cost</i>, -figs, 2<i>s.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> per dozen. <i>Seasonable</i> in -August and September.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 263px;"> -<img src="images/illus-120.jpg" width="263" height="65" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">COMPÔTE OF FIGS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>FISH.</h3> - -<p>Fish shortly before they spawn are, -in general, best in condition. When -the spawning is just over, they are out -of season, and unfit for human food.</p> - -<p>When fish is out of season, it has a -transparent, bluish tinge, however much -it may be boiled; whenever it is in season, -its muscles are firm, and boil white -and curdy.</p> - -<p>As food for invalids, white fish, such -as the ling, cod, haddock, coal-fish, and -whiting, are the best; flat fish, as soles, -skate, turbot, and flounders, are also -good.</p> - -<p>Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout -soon spoil or decompose after they are -killed; therefore, to be in perfection, -they should be prepared for the table -on the day they are caught. With flat -fish, this is not of such consequence, as -they will keep longer. The turbot, for -example, is improved by being kept for -a few hours.</p> - - -<h3>FISH, General Directions for -Dressing.</h3> - -<p>In dressing fish of any kind, the first -point to be attended to, is to see that it -is perfectly clean. It is a common error -to wash it too much, as by doing so the -flavour is diminished. If the fish is to be -boiled, a little salt and vinegar should -be put into the water, to give it firmness, -after it is cleaned. Codfish, whiting, -and haddock, are none the worse for -being a little salted, and kept a day; -and, if the weather be not very hot, they -will be good for two days.</p> - -<p>When fish is cheap and plentiful, and -a larger quantity is purchased than is -immediately wanted, the overplus of such -as will bear it should be potted, or -pickled, or salted, and hung up; or it -may be fried, that it may serve for stewing -the next day. Fresh-water fish, -having frequently a muddy smell and -taste, should be soaked in strong salt and -water, after it has been well cleaned. If -of a sufficient size, it may be scalded in -salt and water, and afterwards dried and -dressed.</p> - -<p>Fish should be put into cold water and -set on the fire to do very gently, or the -outside will break before the inner part -is done. Unless the fishes are small, -they should never be put into warm -water; nor should water, either hot or -cold, be poured <i>on</i> to the fish, as it is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> -liable to break the skin; if it should be -necessary to add a little water whilst the -fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in -gently at the side of the vessel. The -fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the -fish be ready, which may be known by -its easily separating from the bone. It -should then be immediately taken out of -the water, or it will become woolly. The -fish-plate should be set crossways over -the kettle, to keep hot for serving, and -a cloth laid over the fish, to prevent its -losing its colour.</p> - -<p>In garnishing fish great attention is -required, and plenty of parsley, horseradish, -and lemon should be used. If -fried parsley be used, it must be washed -and picked, and thrown into fresh water. -When the lard or dripping boils, throw -the parsley into it immediately from the -water, and instantly it will be green and -crisp, and must be taken up with a slice. -When well done, and with very good -sauce, fish is more appreciated than -almost any other dish. The liver and -roe, in some instances, should be placed -on the dish, in order that they may be -distributed in the course of serving; but -to each recipe will be appended the proper -mode of serving and garnishing.</p> - -<p>If fish is to be fried or broiled it must -be dried in a nice soft cloth after it is -well cleaned and washed. If for frying, -brush it over with egg, and sprinkle it -with some fine crumbs of bread. If done -a second time with the egg and bread, the -fish will look so much the better. If required -to be very nice, a sheet of white -blotting-paper must be placed to receive -it, that it may be free from all grease; -it must also be of a beautiful colour, and -all the crumbs appear distinct. Butter -gives a bad colour; lard and clarified -dripping are most frequently used; but -oil is the best, if the expense be no -objection. The fish should be put into -the lard when boiling, and there should -be a sufficiency of this to cover it.</p> - -<p>When fish is broiled, it must be seasoned, -floured, and laid on a very clean -gridiron, which, when hot, should be -rubbed with a bit of suet, to prevent the -fish from sticking. It must be broiled -over a very clear fire, that it may not -taste smoky; and not too near, that it -may not be scorched.</p> - -<p>In choosing fish, it is well to remember -that it is possible it may be <i>fresh</i>, and -yet not <i>good</i>. Under the head of each -particular fish in this work, are appended -rules for its choice, and the months when -it is in season. Nothing can be of greater -consequence to a cook than to have the -fish good; as, if this important course in -a dinner does not give satisfaction, it is -rarely that the repast goes off well.</p> - - -<h3>FISH, General Directions for -Carving.</h3> - -<p>In carving fish, care should be taken -to help it in perfect flakes, as, if these -are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. -The carver should be acquainted, too, with -the choicest parts and morsels; and to -give each guest an equal share of these -<i>titbits</i> should be his maxim. Steel knives -and forks should on no account be used -in helping fish, as these are liable to -impart to it a very disagreeable flavour. -When silver fish-carvers are considered -too dear to be bought, good electro-plated -ones answer very well, and are -inexpensive.</p> - - -<h3>FISH CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of any cold -fish, 1 onion, 1 faggot of sweet herbs; -salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, -equal quantities of bread-crumbs and -cold potatoes, ½ teaspoonful of parsley, -1 egg, bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the -meat from the bones of the fish, which -latter put, with the head and fins, into -a stewpan with the water; add pepper -and salt, the onion and herbs, and stew -slowly for gravy about 2 hours; chop -the fish fine, and mix it well with bread-crumbs -and cold potatoes, adding the -parsley and seasoning; make the whole -into a cake with the white of an egg, -brush it over with egg, cover with bread-crumbs, -fry of a light brown; strain the -gravy, pour it over, and stew gently for -¼ of an hour, stirring it carefully once or -twice. Serve hot, and garnish with thin -slices of lemon and parsley. <i>Time.</i>—½ an -hour after the gravy is made.</p> - - -<h3>FISH AND OYSTER PIE.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Any -remains of cold fish, such as cod -or haddock; 2 dozen oysters, pepper -and salt to taste, bread-crumbs sufficient -for the quantity of fish; ½ teaspoonful of -grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped -parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Clear the fish -from the bones, and put a layer of it in -a pie-dish, which sprinkle with pepper -and salt; then a layer of bread-crumbs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> -oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. -Repeat this till the dish is quite full. -You may form a covering either of bread-crumbs, -which should be browned, or -puff-paste, which should be cut into long -strips, and laid in cross-bars over the -fish, with a line of the paste first laid -round the edge. Before putting on the -top, pour in some made melted butter, -or a little thin white sauce, and the -oyster-liquor, and bake. <i>Time.</i>—If made -of cooked fish, ¼ hour; if made of fresh -fish and puff-paste, ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -April.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A nice little dish may be made -by flaking any cold fish, adding a few -oysters, seasoning with pepper and salt, -and covering with mashed potatoes; -¼ hour will bake it.</p> - - -<h3>FISH PIE, with Tench and Eels.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, -a faggot of herbs, 4 blades of mace, -3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and -salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, the yokes of 6 hard-boiled eggs, -puff-paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean and bone the -tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut -them into pieces 2 inches long, and leave -the sides of the tench whole. Put the -bones into a stewpan with the onions, -herbs, mace, anchovies, water, and seasoning, -and let them simmer gently for -1 hour. Strain it off, put it to cool, and -skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and -eels in a pie-dish, and between each layer -put seasoning, chopped parsley, and -hard-boiled eggs; pour in part of the -strained liquor, cover in with puff-paste, -and bake for ½ hour or rather more. The -oven should be rather quick, and when -done, heat the remainder of the liquor, -which pour into the pie. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour -to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow.</p> - - -<h3>FISH SAUCE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ oz. of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls -of walnut ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls -of soy, a few shreds of garlic -and shalot, 1 quart of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients into a large -bottle, and shake well every day for a -fortnight. Keep it in small bottles well -sealed, and in a few days it will be fit -for use. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i></p> - - -<h3>FISH, Scalloped.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Remains -of cold fish of any sort, ½ pint -of cream, ½ tablespoonful of anchovy -sauce, ½ teaspoonful of made mustard, -ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt -to taste (the above quantities are for ½ lb. -of fish when picked): bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put all the ingredients into a -stewpan, carefully picking the fish from -the bones; set it on the fire, let it remain -till nearly hot, occasionally stir the -contents, but do not allow it to boil. -When done, put the fish into a deep dish -or scallop shell, with a good quantity of -bread-crumbs; place small pieces of -butter on the top, set in a Dutch oven -before the fire to brown, or use a salamander. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the cold fish, 10<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>FISH, Scalloped.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Any -cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large -blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful -of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, -pepper and salt to taste, bread-crumbs, -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the fish carefully -from the bones, and moisten with milk -and the egg; add the other ingredients, -and place in a deep ditch or scallop shells; -over with bread-crumbs, butter the top, -and brown before the fire; when quite -hot, serve. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the cold fish, 4<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>FISH STOCK.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of beef or veal -(these can be omitted), any kind of white -fish trimmings of fish which are to be -dressed for table, 2 onions, the rind of -½ a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 -carrots, 2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the fish, and put it, with the other -ingredients, into the water. Simmer -for 2 hours; skim the liquor carefully, -and strain it. When a richer stock is -wanted, fry the vegetables and fish -before adding the water. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, with meat, 10<i>d.</i> per quart; -without, 3<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Do not make fish stock long -before it is wanted, as it soon turns sour.</p> - - -<h3>FLOUNDERS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient water to cover -the flounders, salt in the proportion of -6 oz. to each gallon, a little vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put on a kettle with enough -water to cover the flounders, lay in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> -fish, add salt and vinegar in the above -proportions, and when it boils, simmer -very gently for 5 minutes. They must -not boil fast, or they will break. Serve -with plain melted butter, or parsley and -butter. <i>Time.</i>—After the water boils, -5 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to November.</p> - - -<h3>FLOUNDERS, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Flounders, egg, and bread-crumbs; -boiling lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse -the fish, and, two hours before they are -wanted, rub them inside and out with -salt, to render them firm; wash and -wipe them very dry, dip them into egg, -and sprinkle over with bread-crumbs; -fry them in boiling lard, dish on a hot -napkin, and garnish with crisped parsley. -<i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 10 minutes, according -to size. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to November. -<i>Sufficient</i>, 1 for each person.</p> - - -<h3>FLOWERS, Almond.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste; to every ½ lb. -of paste allow 3 oz. of almonds, sifted -sugar, the white of an egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Roll -the paste out to the thickness of ¼ -inch, and, with a round fluted cutter, -stamp out as many pieces as may be required. -Work the paste up again, roll -it out, and, with a smaller cutter, stamp -out some pieces the size of a shilling. -Brush the larger pieces over with the -white of an egg, and place one of the -smaller pieces on each. Blanch and cut -the almonds into strips lengthwise; press -them slanting into the paste closely round -the rings; and when they are all completed, -sift over some pounded sugar, -and bake for about ¼ hour or twenty -minutes. Garnish between the almonds -with strips of apple jelly, and place in -centre of the ring a small quantity of -strawberry jam; pile them high on the -dish, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour or 20 -minutes. <i>Sufficient.</i>—18 or 20 for a dish. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FLOWERS, to Preserve Cut.</h3> - -<p>A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may -be preserved alive for a long time by -placing them in a glass or vase with fresh -water, in which a little charcoal has been -steeped, or a small piece of camphor -dissolved. The vase should be set upon -a plate or dish, and covered with a bell-glass, -around the edges of which, when -it comes in contact with the plate, a -little water should be poured to exclude -the air.</p> - - -<h3>FLOWERS, to Revive after Packing.</h3> - -<p>Plunge the stems into boiling water, -and, by the time the water is cold, the -flowers will have revived. Then cut -afresh the ends of the stems, and keep -them in fresh cold water.</p> - - -<h3>FONDUE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, the weight of 2 -in Parmesan or good Cheshire cheese, the -weight of 2 in butter; pepper and salt -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate the yolks -from the whites of the eggs; beat the -former in a basin, and grate the cheese, -or cut it into <i>very thin</i> flakes. Parmesan -or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever -is the most convenient, although the -former is considered more suitable for -this dish; or an equal quantity of each -may be used. Break the butter into -small pieces, add to it the other ingredients, -with sufficient pepper and salt to -season nicely, and beat the mixture -thoroughly. Well whisk the whites of -the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either -bake the fondue in a soufflé-dish or small -round cake-tin. Fill the dish only half -full, as the fondue should rise very much. -Pin a napkin round the tin or dish, and -serve very hot and very quickly. If -allowed to stand after it is withdrawn -from the oven, the beauty and lightness -of this preparation will be entirely -spoiled. <i>Time.</i>—From 15 to 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FONDUE, Brillat Savarin’s (an excellent -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Eggs, cheese, butter, -pepper and salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Take the same -number of eggs as there are guests; -weigh the eggs in the shell, allow a third -of their weight in Gruyère cheese, and -a piece of butter one-sixth of the weight -of the cheese. Break the eggs into a -basin, beat them well; add the cheese, -which should be grated, and the butter, -which should be broken into small pieces. -Stir these ingredients together with a -wooden spoon; put the mixture into a -lined saucepan, place it over the fire, and -stir until the substance is thick and soft.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> -Put in a little salt, according to the age -of the cheese, and a good sprinkling of -pepper, and serve the fondue on a very -hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow -the fondue to remain on the fire after the -mixture is set, as, if it boils, it will -be entirely spoiled. Brillat Savarin recommends -that some choice Burgundy -should be handed round with this dish. -We have given this recipe exactly as he -recommends it to be made; but we have -tried it with good Cheshire cheese, and -found it answer remarkably well. <i>Time.</i>—About -4 minutes to set the mixture. -<i>Average cost</i>, for 4 persons, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 egg, with the other ingredients -in proportion, for 1 person. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOOD FOR INFANTS, and its -Preparation.</h3> - -<p>The articles generally employed as food -for infants consist of arrowroot, bread, -flour, baked flour, prepared groats, farinaceous -food, biscuit-powder, biscuits, -tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or -manna croup, as it is otherwise called, -which, like tapioca, is the prepared pith -of certain vegetable substances. Of this -list the least efficacious, though, perhaps, -the most believed in, is arrowroot, which -only as a mere agent, for change, and -then only for a very short time, should -ever be employed as a means of diet to -infancy or childhood. It is a thin, flatulent, -and innutritious food, and incapable -of supporting infantine life and energy. -Bread, though the universal <i>régime</i> with -the labouring poor, where the infant’s -stomach and digestive powers are a reflex, -in miniature, of the father’s, should -never be given to an infant under three -months, and, even then, however finely -beaten up and smoothly made, is a very -questionable diet. Flour, when well -boiled, though infinitely better than -arrowroot, is still only a kind of fermentative -paste, that counteracts its -own good by after-acidity and flatulence.</p> - -<p>Baked flour, when cooked into a pale -brown mass, and finely powdered, makes -a far superior food to the others, and -may be considered as a very useful diet, -especially for a change. Prepared groats -may be classed with arrowroot and raw -flour, as being innutritious. The articles -that now follow on our list are all good, -and such as we could, with conscience -and safety, trust to the health and development -of any child whatever.</p> - -<p>We may observe in this place, that an -occasional change in the character of the -food is highly desirable, both as regards -the health and benefit of the child; and, -though the interruption should only -last for a day, the change will be advantageous.</p> - -<p>The packets sold as farinaceous food -are unquestionably the best aliment that -can be given from the first to a baby, and -may be continued, with the exception of -an occasional change, without alteration -of the material, till the child is able to -take its regular meals of animal and -vegetable food. Some infants are so -constituted as to require a frequent and -a total change in their system of living, -seeming to thrive for a certain time on -any food given to them, but if persevered -in too long, declining in bulk and appearance -as rapidly as they had previously -progressed. In such cases, the food -should be immediately changed, and -when that which appeared to agree best -with the child is resumed, it should be -altered in its quality, and perhaps in its -consistency.</p> - -<p>For the farinaceous food there are -directions with each packet, containing -instructions for the making; but, whatever -the food employed is, enough should -be made at once to last the day and -night; at first, about a pint basinful, -but, as the child advances, a quart will -hardly be too much. In all cases, let -the food boil a sufficient time, constantly -stirring, and taking every precaution -that it does not get burnt, in which case -it is on no account to be used.</p> - -<p>The food should always be made with -water, the whole sweetened at once, and -of such a consistency that, when poured -out, and it has had time to cool, it will -cut with the firmness of a pudding or -custard. One or two spoonfuls are to be -put into the pap saucepan and stood on -the hob till the heat has softened it, -when enough milk is to be added, and -carefully mixed with the food, till the -whole has the consistency of ordinary -cream; it is then to be poured into the -nursing-bottle, and the food having been -drawn through to warm the nipple, it is -to be placed in the child’s mouth. For -the first month or more, half a bottleful -will be quite enough to give the infant -at one time; but, as the child grows, it -will be necessary not only to increase the -quantity given at each time, but also -gradually to make its food more consistent,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> -and, after the third month, to -add an egg to every pint basin of food -made. At night, the mother puts the -food into the covered pan of her lamp, -instead of the saucepan—that is, enough -for one supply, and, having lighted the -rush, she will find, on the waking of her -child, the food sufficiently hot to bear -the cooling addition of the milk. But, -whether night or day, the same food -should never be heated twice, and what -the child leaves should be thrown away.</p> - -<p>The biscuit powder is used in the same -manner as the farinaceous food, and both -prepared much after the fashion of -making starch. But when tops-and-bottoms, -or the whole biscuit, are employed, -they require soaking in cold -water for some time previously to boiling. -The biscuit or biscuits are then to be -slowly boiled in as much water as will, -when thoroughly soft, allow of their -being beaten by a three-pronged fork -into a fine, smooth, and even pulp, and -which, when poured into a basin and -become cold, will cut out like a custard. -If two large biscuits have been so treated, -and the child is six or seven months old, -beat up two eggs, sufficient sugar to properly -sweeten it, and about a pint of -skim milk. Pour this on the beaten -biscuit in the saucepan, stirring constantly; -boil for about five minutes, pour -into a basin, and use, when cold, in the -same manner as the other.</p> - -<p>This makes an admirable food, at once -nutritious and strengthening. When -tops-and-bottoms or rusks are used, the -quantity of the egg may be reduced, or -altogether omitted.</p> - -<p>Semolina, or manna croup, being in -little hard grains, like a fine millet-seed, -must be boiled for some time, and the -milk, sugar, and egg added to it on the -fire, and boiled for a few minutes longer, -and, when cold, used as the other preparations.</p> - -<p>Many persons entertain a belief that -cow’s milk is hurtful to infants, and, -consequently, refrain from giving it; -but this is a very great mistake, for both -sugar and milk should form a large portion -of every meal an infant takes.</p> - - -<h3><a id="FORCEMEATS"></a>FORCEMEATS.</h3> - -<p>The points which cooks should, in this -branch of cookery, more particularly -observe, are the thorough chopping of -the suet, the complete mincing of the -herbs, the careful grating of the bread-crumbs, -and the perfect mixing of the -whole. These are the three principal -ingredients of forcemeats, and they can -scarcely be cut too small, as nothing like -a lump or fibre should be anywhere -perceptible. To conclude, the flavour of -no one spice or herb should be permitted -to predominate.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT BALLS, for Fish -Soups.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 middling-sized lobster, -½ an anchovy, 1 head of boiled celery, -the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; salt, -cayenne, and mace to taste; 4 tablespoonfuls -of bread-crumbs, 2 oz. of -butter, 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the meat -from the shell of the lobster, and pound -it, with the soft parts, in a mortar; add -the celery, the yolk of the hard-boiled -egg, seasoning, and bread-crumbs. Continue -pounding till the whole is nicely -amalgamated. Warm the butter till it -is in a liquid state; well whisk the eggs, -and work these up with the pounded -lobster-meat. Make the balls of about -an inch in diameter, and fry of a nice pale -brown. <i>Sufficient</i>, from 18 to 20 balls for -1 tureen of soup.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT, French.</h3> - -<p>It will be well to state, in the beginning -of this recipe, that French forcemeat, or -quenelles, consist of the blending of three -separate processes; namely, panada, -udder, and whatever meat you intend -using.</p> - -<p><b>Panada.</b> <i>Ingredients.</i>—The crumb -of 2 penny rolls, 4 tablespoonfuls of -white stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 slice of -ham, 1 bay-leaf, a little minced parsley, -2 shalots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a -few mushrooms, butter, the yolks of 2 -eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Soak the crumb of the -rolls in milk for about ½ hour, then take -it out, and squeeze so as to press the -milk from it; put the soaked bread into -a stewpan with the above quantity of -white stock, and set it on one side; then -put into a separate stewpan 1 oz. of -butter, a slice of lean ham cut small, with -a bay-leaf, herbs, mushrooms, spices, -&c., in the above proportions, and fry -them gently over a slow fire. When -done, moisten with 2 teacupfuls of white -stock, boil for 20 minutes, and strain the -whole through a sieve over the panada<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> -in the other stewpan. Place it over the -fire, keep constantly stirring, to prevent -its burning, and, when quite dry, put in -a small piece of butter. Let this again -dry up by stirring over the fire; then -add the yolks of 2 eggs, mix well, put -the panada to cool on a clean plate, and -use it when required. Panada should -always be well flavoured, as the forcemeat -receives no taste from any of the -other ingredients used in its preparation.</p> - -<p><b>Boiled Calf’s Udder for French -Forcemeat.</b>—Put the udder into a -stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; -let it stew gently till quite done, when -take it out to cool. Trim all the upper -parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound -well in a mortar, till it can be rubbed -through a sieve. That portion which -passes through the strainer is one of the -three ingredients of which French forcemeats -are generally composed; but many -cooks substitute butter for this, being a -less troublesome and more expeditious -mode of preparation.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT, for Cold Savoury -Pies.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fat -bacon; salt, cayenne, pepper, and -pounded mace to taste; a very little -nutmeg, the same of chopped lemon-peel, -½ teaspoonful of chopped parsley, ½ teaspoonful -of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 -eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the veal and bacon -together, and put them into a mortar with -the other ingredients mentioned above. -Pound well, and bind with 1 or 2 eggs -which have been previously beaten and -strained. Work the whole well together, -and the forcemeat will be ready for use. -If the pie is not to be eaten immediately, -omit the herbs and parsley, as these will -prevent it from keeping. Mushrooms or -truffles may be added. <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 -small pies.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT, for Pike, Carp, Haddock, -and various Kinds of Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. -of suet, 1 oz. of fat bacon, 1 small teaspoonful -of minced savoury herbs, including -parsley; a little onion, when -liked, shredded very fine; salt, nutmeg, -and cayenne to taste; 4 oz. of bread-crumbs, -1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix all the ingredients -well together, carefully mincing -them very finely; beat up the egg, -moisten with it, and work the whole very -smoothly together. Oysters or anchovies -may be added to this forcemeat, and will -be found a great improvement. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a moderate-sized -haddock or pie.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT, for Baked Pike.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of bread-crumbs, -1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, -8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed -with), 2 oz. of suet; salt, pepper, -and pounded mace to taste; 6 tablespoonfuls -of cream or milk, the yolks of -2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Beard and mince the -oysters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, -and blend the whole thoroughly -together. Moisten with the cream and -eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir it -over the fire till it thickens, when put it -into the fish, which should have previously -been cut open, and sew it up. -<i>Time.</i>—4 or 5 minutes to thicken. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a moderate-sized -pike.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT, or QUENELLES, -for Turtle Soup. (Soyer’s Recipe.)</h3> - -<p>Take a pound and a half of lean veal -from the fillet, and cut it in long thin -slices; scrape with a knife till nothing -but the fibre remains; put it into a mortar, -pound it 10 minutes, or until in a -purée; pass it through a wire sieve (use -the remainder in stock); then take 1 -pound of good fresh beef suet, which -skin, shred, and chop very fine; put it -into a mortar and pound it; then add -6 oz. of panada (that is, bread soaked in -milk and boiled till nearly dry) with the -suet; pound them well together, and -add the veal; season with a teaspoonful -of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half -that of nutmeg; work all well together; -then add four eggs by degrees, continually -pounding the contents of the mortar. -When well mixed, take a small piece in -a spoon, and poach it in some boiling -water; and if it is delicate, firm, and of -a good flavour, it is ready for use.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT VEAL, or VEAL -QUENELLES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal quantities of veal, -panada, and calf’s udder, 2 eggs; seasoning -to taste of pepper, salt, and -pounded mace, or grated nutmeg; a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> -little flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Take the fleshy -part of veal, scrape it with a knife, till -all the meat is separated from the sinews, -and allow about ½ lb. for an entrée. -Chop the meat, and pound it in a mortar -till reduced to a paste; then roll it into -a ball; make another of panada the same -size, and another of udder, taking care -that these three balls be of the same -size. (It is to be remembered, that equality -of <i>size</i>, and not of weight, is here -necessary.) When the three ingredients -are properly prepared, pound them altogether -in a mortar for some time; for -the more quenelles are pounded, the -more delicate they are. Now moisten -with the eggs, whites and yolks, and -continue pounding, adding a seasoning -of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole -is well blended together, mould it into -balls, or whatever shape is intended, -roll them in flour, and poach in boiling -water, to which a little salt should have -been added. If the quenelles are not -firm enough, add the yolk of another -egg, but omit the white, which only -makes them hollow and puffy inside. -In the preparation of this recipe, it -would be well to bear in mind that the -ingredients are to be well pounded and -seasoned, and must be made hard or soft -according to the dishes they are intended -for. For brown or white ragoûts they -should be firm, and when the quenelles -are used very small, extreme delicacy -will be necessary in their preparation. -Their flavour may be varied by using the -flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant, -grouse, or an extra quantity of mushroom, -parsley, &c.</p> - - -<h3>FORCEMEAT for Veal, Turkeys, -Fowls, Hare, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of ham or lean -bacon, ¼ lb. of suet, the rind of half a -lemon, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, -1 teaspoonful of minced sweet herbs; -salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; -6 oz. of bread-crumbs, 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Shred -the ham or bacon, chop the suet, -lemon-peel, and herbs, taking particular -care that all be very finely minced; add -a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, -and mace, and blend all thoroughly together -with the bread-crumbs, before -wetting. Now beat and strain the eggs; -work these up with the other ingredients, -and the forcemeat will be ready for use. -When it is made into balls, fry of a nice -brown, in boiling lard, or put them on a -tin and bake for ½ hour in a moderate -oven. As we have stated before, no one -flavour should predominate greatly, and -the forcemeat should be of sufficient -body to cut with a knife, and yet not -dry and heavy. For very delicate forcemeat, -it is advisable to pound the ingredients -together before binding with the -eggs; but for ordinary cooking, mincing -very finely answers the purpose. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a turkey, a -moderate-sized fillet of veal, or a hare.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In the forcemeat for Hare, the -liver of the animal is sometimes added. -Boil for 5 minutes, mince it very small, -and mix it with the other ingredients. -If it should be in an unsound state, it -must be on no account made use of.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Boiled, à la Béchamel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A pair of fowls, 1 pint of -Béchamel, a few bunches of boiled broccoli -or cauliflower. <i>Mode.</i>—Truss and boil -the flowers; make a pint of Béchamel -sauce; pour some of this over the fowls, -and the remainder send to table in a -tureen. Garnish the dish with bunches -of boiled cauliflowers or broccoli, and -serve very hot. The sauce should be -made sufficiently thick to adhere to the -fowls; that for the tureen should be -thinned by adding a spoonful or two of -stock. <i>Time.</i>—From ½ to 1 hour, according -to size. <i>Average cost</i>, in full -season, 5<i>s.</i> a pair. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, but -scarce in early spring.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Boiled, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 201px;"> -<img src="images/illus-127.jpg" width="201" height="86" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED FOWL.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 106px;"> -<img src="images/illus-128.jpg" width="106" height="255" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEG, WING, AND -NECKBONE OF FOWL.</div> -</div> - -<p>This will not be found a very difficult -member of the poultry family to carve, -unless, as may happen, a very old farm-yard -occupant, useless for egg-laying -purposes, has, -by some unlucky -mischance, been -introduced into -the kitchen as -a “fine young -chicken.” Skill, -however, and -the application of a small amount of -strength, combined with a fine keeping -of the temper, will even get over that difficulty. -Fixing the fork firmly in the -breast, let the knife be firmly passed -along the line shown from 1 to 2; then -cut downwards from that line to fig. 3:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> -and the wing, it will be found, can be -easily withdrawn. The shape of the -wing should be like the accompanying -engraving. Let the fork be placed inside -the leg, which -should be gently -forced away from -the body of the -fowl; and the -joint, being thus -discovered, the -carver can readily -cut through it, and -the leg can be -served. When the -leg is displaced, it -should be of the -same shape as that -shown in the annexed -woodcut. -The legs and -wings on either -side having been taken off, the carver -should draw his knife through the flesh -in the direction of the line 4 to 5; by -this means the knife can be slipped -underneath the merrythought, which, -being lifted up and pressed backward, -will immediately come off. The collar- or -neck-bones are the next to consider: -these lie on each side of the merrythought, -close under the upper part of -the wings; and, in order to free these -from the fowl, they must also be raised -by the knife at their broad end, and -turned from the body towards the breastbone, -until the shorter piece of the bone, -as shown in the cut, breaks off. There will -now be left only the breast, with the -ribs. The breast can be, without difficulty, -disengaged from the ribs by cutting -through the latter, which will offer -little impediment. The side bones are -now to be taken off; and to do this, the -lower end of the back should be turned -from the carver, who should press the -point of the knife through the top of the -backbone, near the centre, bringing it -down towards the end of the back completely -through the bone. If the knife -be now turned in the opposite direction, -the joint will be easily separated from -the vertebræ. The backbone being -now uppermost, the fork should be -pressed firmly down on it, whilst at -the same time the knife should be -employed in raising up the lower small -end of the fowl towards the fork, and -thus the back will be dislocated about -its middle. The wings, breast, and -merrythought are esteemed the prime -parts of a fowl, and are usually served -to the ladies of the company, to whom -legs, except as a matter of paramount -necessity, should not be given. Byron -gave it as one reason why he did not -like dining with ladies, that they always -had the wings of the fowls, which he -himself preferred. We heard a gentleman -who, when he might have had a -wing, declare his partiality for a leg, -saying that he had been obliged to eat -legs for so long a time that he had at -last come to like them better than the -other more prized parts. If the fowl is, -capon-like, very large, slices may be -carved from its breast in the same manner -as from a turkey’s.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Boiled, with Oysters. -(Excellent.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 young fowl, 3 dozen -oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs, ¼ pint of -cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Truss a young fowl as -for boiling; fill the inside with oysters -which have been bearded and washed in -their own liquor; secure the ends of the -fowl, put it into a jar, and plunge the jar -into a saucepan of boiling water. Keep -it boiling for 1½ hour, or rather longer; -then take the gravy that has flowed from -the oysters and fowl, of which there will -be a good quantity; stir in the cream -and yolks of eggs, add a few oysters -scalded in their liquor; let the sauce get -quite <i>hot</i>, but do not allow it to <i>boil</i>; -pour some of it over the fowl, and the -remainder send to table in a tureen. A -blade of pounded mace added to the -sauce, with the cream and eggs, will be -found an improvement. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -April.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Broiled, and Mushroom -Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A large fowl; seasoning, -to taste, of pepper and salt, 2 handfuls -of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, -¾ pint of thickened gravy, 1 teaspoonful -of lemon juice, ½ teaspoonful of pounded -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowl into quarters, -roast it until three-parts done, -and keep it well basted whilst at the -fire. Take the fowl up, broil it for a -few minutes over a clear fire, and season -it with pepper and salt. Have ready -some mushroom sauce made in the following<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> -manner. Put the mushrooms into -a stewpan with a small piece of butter, -the ham, a seasoning of pepper and salt, -and the gravy; simmer these gently for -½ hour, add the lemon-juice and sugar, -dish the fowl, and pour the sauce round -them. <i>Time.</i>—To roast the fowl, 35 -minutes; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—In -full season from May to January.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Boiled, and Rice.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 fowl, mutton broth, 2 -onions, 2 small blades of pounded mace, -pepper and salt to taste, ¼ pint of rice, -parsley and butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Truss the -fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan -with sufficient clear well-skimmed -mutton broth to cover it; add the onion, -mace, and a seasoning of pepper and -salt; stew very gently for about 1 hour, -should the fowl be large, and about ½ -hour before it is ready put in the rice, -which should be well washed and soaked. -When the latter is tender, strain it from -the liquor, and put it on a sieve reversed -to dry before the fire, and, in the mean -time, keep the fowl hot. Dish it, put -the rice round as a border, pour a little -parsley and butter over the fowl, and the -remainder send to table in a tureen. -<i>Time.</i>—A large fowl, 1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, to Bone, for Fricassees, -Curries, and Pies.</h3> - -<p>First carve them entirely into joints, -then remove the bones, beginning with the -legs and wings, at the head of the largest -bone; hold this with the fingers, and -work the knife as directed in the recipe -above. The remainder of the birds is -too easily done to require any instructions.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Croquettes of (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 or 4 shalots, 1 oz. of -butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, white -sauce; pepper, salt, and pounded mace -to taste; ½ teaspoonful of pounded sugar, -the remains of cold roast fowls, the yolks -of 2 eggs, egg, and bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince -the fowl, carefully removing all -skin and bone, and fry the shalots in the -butter; add the minced fowl, dredge in -the flour, put in the pepper, salt, mace, -pounded sugar, and sufficient white -sauce to moisten it; stir to it the yolks -of 2 well-beaten eggs, and set it by to -cool. Then make the mixture up into -balls, egg and bread-crumb them, and -fry a nice brown. They may be served on -a border of mashed potatoes, with gravy -or sauce in the centre. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes -to fry the balls. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL AND RICE, Croquettes of -(an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of rice, 1 quart of -stock or broth, 3 oz. of butter, minced -fowl, egg, and bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the rice into the above proportion of -cold stock or broth, and let it boil very -gently for ½ hour; then add the butter, -and simmer it till quite dry and soft. -When cold, make it into balls, hollow out -the inside, and fill with minced fowl made -by recipe. The mince should be rather -thick. Cover over with rice, dip the -balls into egg, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, -and fry a nice brown. Dish -them, and garnish with fried parsley. -Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream, -may be stirred into the rice before it -cools. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to boil the rice, -10 minutes to fry the croquettes. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the fowl, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Curried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 fowl, 2 oz. of butter, -3 onions sliced, 1 pint of white veal gravy, -1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful -of flour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoonfuls -of cream, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter into a -stewpan, with the onions sliced, the fowl -cut into small joints; and the apple -peeled, cored, and minced. Fry of a -pale brown, add the stock, and stew -gently for 20 minutes; rub down the -curry-powder and flour with a little of -the gravy, quite smoothly, and stir this -to the other ingredients; simmer for -rather more than ½ hour, and just before -serving, add the above proportion of hot -cream and lemon-juice. Serve with -boiled rice, which may either be heaped -lightly on a dish by itself, or put round -the curry as a border. <i>Time.</i>—50 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in the -winter.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This curry may be made of cold<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> -chicken, but undressed meat will be -found far superior.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Fricasseed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, 1 strip -of lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, -1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper -and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 -teaspoonful of flour, ¼ pint of cream, the -yolks of 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Carve the fowls -into nice joints; make gravy of the trimmings -and legs, by stewing them with -the lemon-peel, mace, herbs, onion, seasoning, -and water, until reduced to ½ -pint; then strain, and put in the fowl. -Warm it through, and thicken with a -teaspoonful of flour; stir the yolks of the -eggs into the cream; add these to the -sauce, let it get thoroughly hot, but do -not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour to make the gravy, ¼ hour -to warm the fowl. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cold chicken, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Fried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, -salt and cayenne to taste, 3 or 4 -minced shalots. For the batter,—½ lb. -of flour, ½ pint of hot water, 2 oz. of -butter, the whites of 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the fowl into nice joints; steep them -for an hour in a little vinegar, with salt, -cayenne, and minced shalots. Make the -batter by mixing the flour and water -smoothly together; melt in it the butter, -and add the whites of egg beaten to a -froth; take out the pieces of fowl, dip -them in the batter, and fry in boiling -lard, a nice brown. Pile them high in -the dish, and garnish with fried parsley -or rolled bacon. When approved, a -sauce or gravy may be served with them. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to fry the fowl. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the cold fowl, 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Fried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, vinegar, -salt and cayenne to taste, 4 minced -shalots, yolk of egg; to every teacupful -of bread-crumbs allow 1 blade of pounded -mace, ½ teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, -1 saltspoonful of salt, a few grains -of cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Steep the pieces of -fowl as in the preceding recipe, then dip -them into the yolk of an egg or clarified -butter; sprinkle over bread-crumbs with -which have been mixed salt, mace, cayenne, -and lemon-peel in the above proportion. -Fry a light brown, and serve -with or without gravy, as may be preferred. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to fry the -fowl. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the cold -fowl, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Fried, and French Beans.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl; the -yolk of 1 egg, 2 oz. of butter, 1 blade of -pounded mace, ¼ saltspoonful of grated -nutmeg, bread-crumbs and chopped parsley. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowl into neat -joints, brush them over with the yolk -of egg, and sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, -with which the <i>parsley</i>, <i>nutmeg</i>, -and <i>mace</i> have been well mixed. Fry the -fowl in the butter until of a nice brown, -and dish the pieces on French beans -boiled, and afterwards simmered for a -minute or two in butter. The dish -should be garnished with rolled bacon. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to fry the fowl. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> from July to September.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL au Gratin.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of either cold roast or -boiled fowl, ½ pint of Béchamel sauce, -a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan -cheese, pepper and salt to taste, ¼ saltspoonful -of grated nutmeg, ¼ pint of -cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, -fried potatoes. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the fowl -not too finely, and make it hot in the -Béchamel sauce, to which the nutmeg, -pepper and salt, and cream, have been -added. When well mixed, serve the -fowl on to a dish, cover it with the bread-crumbs -and Parmesan cheese, drop over -a little clarified butter, and bake in the -oven until of a pale brown. Garnish the -dish with fried potatoes. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes -to warm the fowl, 10 minutes to -bake. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Hashed. An Entrée.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, 1 pint -of water, 1 onion, 2 or 3 small carrots, -1 blade of pounded mace, pepper and -salt to taste, 1 small bunch of savoury<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> -herbs, thickening of butter and flour, -1½ tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut off the best joints from the -fowl, and the remainder make into gravy, -by adding to the bones and trimmings a -pint of water, an onion sliced and fried -of a nice brown, the carrots, mace, seasoning, -and herbs. Let these stew gently -for 1½ hour, strain the liquor, and thicken -with a little flour and butter. Lay in the -fowl, thoroughly warm it through, add -the ketchup, and garnish with sippets of -toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 1¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the cold -fowl, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Hashed, Indian Fashion (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, -3 or 4 sliced onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of -butter, pounded mace, pepper and salt -to taste, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, -2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 -tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of -pounded sugar, 1 pint of gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the onions into slices, mince -the apple, and fry these in the butter; -add pounded mace, pepper, salt, curry-powder, -vinegar, flour, and sugar in the -above proportions; when the onion is -brown, put in the gravy, which should be -previously made from the bones and -trimmings of the fowls, and stew for ¾ -hour; add the fowl cut into nice-sized -joints, let it warm through, and when -quite tender, serve. The dish should be -garnished with an edging of boiled rice. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the fowl, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, an Indian Dish of (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 -sliced onions, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Divide -the fowl into joints; slice and fry the -onions in a little butter, taking care not -to burn them; sprinkle over the fowl a -little curry-powder and salt; fry these -nicely, pile them high in the centre of -the dish, cover with the onion, and serve -with a cut lemon on a plate. Care must -be taken that the onions are not greasy: -they should be quite dry, but not burnt. -<i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 -minutes to fry the fowl. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the fowl, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -during the winter months.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL à la Mayonnaise.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise -sauce, 4 or 5 young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled -eggs, a few water-cresses, endive. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay -them in a deep dish, piling them high in -the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise, -and garnish the dish with young -lettuces cut in halves, water-cresses, endive, -and hard-boiled eggs: these may -be sliced in rings, or laid on the dish -whole, cutting off at the bottom a piece -of the white, to make the egg stand. -All kinds of cold meat and solid fish may -be dressed à la Mayonnaise, and make -excellent luncheon or supper dishes. -The sauce should not be poured over the -fowls until the moment of serving. Should -a very large Mayonnaise be required, use -2 fowls instead of one, with an equal -proportion of the remaining ingredients. -<i>Average cost</i>, with one fowl, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a moderate-sized dish. <i>Seasonable</i> -from April to September.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Minced (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, 2 hard-boiled -eggs, salt, cayenne, and pounded -mace, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, -6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, -two teaspoonfuls of flour, ½ teaspoonful -of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -out from the fowl all the white meat, and -mince it finely without any skin or bone; -put the bones, skin, and trimmings into -a stewpan with an onion, a bunch of -savoury herbs, a blade of mace, and -nearly a pint of water; let this stew for -an hour, then strain the liquor. Chop -the eggs small; mix them with the fowl; -add salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, -put in the gravy and remaining ingredients; -let the whole just boil, and serve -with sippets of toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the fowl, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Another way to make this is to -mince the fowl, and warm it in white -sauce or Béchamel. When dressed like -this, 3 or 4 poached eggs may be placed -on the top: oysters, or chopped mushrooms, -or balls of oyster forcemeat, may -be laid round the dish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Minced, à la Béchamel.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, 6 tablespoonfuls -of Béchamel sauce, 6 tablespoonfuls -of white stock, the white of -1 egg, bread-crumbs, clarified butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take the remains of roast fowls, -mince the white meat very small, and put -it into a stewpan with the Béchamel and -stock; stir it well over the fire, and just -let it boil up. Pour the mince into a dish, -beat up the white of egg, spread it over, -and strew on it a few grated bread-crumbs; -pour a very little clarified butter -on the whole, and brown either before -the fire or with a salamander. This -should be served in a silver dish, if at -hand. <i>Time.</i>—2 or 3 minutes to simmer -in the sauce. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL, Ragoût of.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowls, 3 shalots, -2 blades of mace, a faggot of savoury -herbs, 2 or 3 slices of lean ham, 1 -pint of stock or water, pepper and salt -to taste, 1 onion, 1 dessertspoonful of -flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, ½ -teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowls up into -neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee; -put the trimmings into a stewpan with -the shalots, mace, herbs, ham, onion, -and stock (water may be substituted for -this). Boil it slowly for 1 hour, strain -the liquor, and put a small piece of butter -into a stewpan; when melted, dredge -in sufficient flour to dry up the butter, -and stir it over the fire. Put in the -strained liquor, boil for a few minutes, -and strain it again over the pieces of -fowl. Squeeze in the lemon-juice, add -the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and -salt, make it hot, but do not allow it to -boil; lay the fowl neatly on the dish, -and garnish with croûtons. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cold fowl, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>FOWLS, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A pair of fowls, a little -flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Fowls, to be tender, should -be killed a couple of days before they are -dressed; when the feathers come out -easily; then let them be picked and -cooked. In drawing them be careful not -to break the gall-bag, as, wherever it -touches, it would impart a very bitter -taste; the liver and gizzard should also -be preserved. Truss them in the following -manner:—After having carefully -picked them, cut off the head, and skewer -the skin of the neck down over the back. -Cut off the claws, dip the legs in boiling -water, and scrape them; turn the pinions -under, run a skewer through them and -the middle of the legs, which should be -passed through the body to the pinion -and leg on the other side, one skewer -securing the limbs on both sides. The -liver and gizzard should be placed in the -wings, the liver on one side and the gizzard -on the other. Tie the legs together -by passing a trussing-needle, threaded -with twine, through the backbone, and -secure it on the other side. If trussed -like a capon, the legs are placed more -apart. When firmly trussed, singe them -all over; put them down to a bright clear -fire, paper the breasts with a sheet of -buttered paper, and keep the fowls well -basted. Roast them for ¾ hour, more or -less, according to the size, and 10 minutes -before serving, remove the paper, dredge -the fowls with a little fine flour, put a -piece of butter into the basting-ladle, and -as it melts baste the fowls with it; when -nicely frothed and of a rich colour, serve -with good brown gravy (a little of which -should be poured over the fowls), and a -tureen of well-made bread sauce. Mushroom, -oyster, or egg sauce, are very suitable -accompaniments to roast fowl.—Chicken -is roasted in the same manner. -<i>Time.</i>—A very large fowl, quite 1 hour; -a medium-sized one, ¾ hour; chicken, -½ hour, or rather longer. <i>Average cost</i>, -in full season, 5<i>s.</i> a pair; when scarce, -7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> the pair. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year, but scarce -in early spring.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 252px;"> -<img src="images/illus-132.jpg" width="252" height="94" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST FOWL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>FOWL, Roast, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>A roast fowl is carved in the same -manner as a boiled fowl, viz., by cutting -along the line from 1 to 2, and then round -the leg between it and the wing. The -markings and detached pieces, as shown -in the engravings under the heading of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> -“Boiled Fowl,” supersede the necessity -of our lengthily again describing the operation. -It -may be added, -that the -liver, being -considered a -delicacy, -should be divided, and one half served -with each wing. In the case of a fowl -being stuffed, it will be proper to give -each guest a portion, unless it be not -agreeable to some one of the party.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 227px;"> -<img src="images/illus-133.jpg" width="227" height="77" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST FOWL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>FOWL, Roast, Stuffed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A large fowl, forcemeat, -a little flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Select a large -plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, -truss it firmly, the same as for a -plain roast fowl, dredge it with flour, -and put it down to a bright fire. Roast -it for nearly or quite an hour, should it -be very large; remove the skewers, and -serve with a good brown gravy and a -tureen of bread sauce. <i>Time.</i>—Large -fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the -year, but scarce in early spring.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Sausage-meat stuffing may be -substituted: this is now a very general -mode of serving fowl.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL SAUTE with Peas (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast fowl, 2 oz. -of butter, pepper, salt, and pounded -mace to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, -½ pint of weak stock, 1 pint of green -peas, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowl into nice pieces; -put the butter into a stewpan; sautez -or fry the fowl a nice brown colour, -previously sprinkling it with pepper, -salt, and pounded mace. Dredge in -the flour, shake the ingredients well -round, then add the stock and peas, -and stew till the latter are tender, -which will be in about 20 minutes; put in -the pounded sugar, and serve, placing -the chicken round, and the peas in -the middle of the dish. When liked, -mushrooms may be substituted for the -peas. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 40 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the fowl, 7<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> from June to August.</p> - - -<h3>FOWL SCOLLOPS.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, -½ pint of Béchamel, or white sauce. -<i>Mode.</i>—Strip off the skin from the fowl; -cut the meat into thin slices, and warm -them in about ½ pint, or rather more, of -Béchamel, or white sauce. When quite -hot, serve, and garnish the dish with -rolled ham or bacon toasted. <i>Time.</i>—1 -minute to simmer the slices of fowl. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FRENCH TERMS used in modern -Household Cookery, explained.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Aspic.</span>—A savoury jelly, used as an -exterior moulding for cold game, poultry, -fish, &c. This, being of a transparent -nature, allows the article which it covers -to be seen through it. This may also be -used for decorating or garnishing.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap"><a id="Assiettes_volantes"></a>Assiette</span> (plate).—<i>Assiettes</i> are the -small <i>entrées</i> and <i>hors-d’œuvres</i>, the -quantity of which does not exceed what -a plate will hold. At dessert, fruits, -cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c., if served -upon a plate, are termed <i>assiettes</i>.—<span class="smcap">Assiette -volante</span> is a dish which a servant -hands round to the guests, but is -not placed upon the table. Small cheese -soufflés and different dishes, which ought -to be served very hot, are frequently -made <i>assiettes volantes</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Au-bleu.</span>—Fish dressed in such a -manner as to have a <i>bluish</i> appearance.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bain-marie.</span>—An open saucepan or -kettle of nearly boiling water, in which -a smaller vessel can be set for cooking -and warming. This is very useful for -keeping articles hot, without altering -their quantity or quality. If you keep -sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the -soup reduces and becomes too strong, -and the sauce thickens as well as reduces; -but this is prevented by using -the <i>bain-marie</i>, in which the water should -be very hot, but not boiling.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Béchamel.</span>—French white sauce, now -frequently used in English cookery.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Blanch.</span>—To whiten poultry, vegetables, -fruit, &c., by plunging them into -boiling water for a short time, and afterwards -plunging them into cold water, -there to remain until they are cold.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Blanquette.</span>—A sort of fricassee.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bouilli.</span>—Beef or other meat boiled; -but, generally speaking, boiled beef is -understood by the term.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bouillie.</span>—A French dish resembling -hasty-pudding.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bouillon.</span>—A thin broth or soup.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Braise.</span>—To stew meat with fat bacon -until it is tender, it having previously -been blanched.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Braisière.</span>—A saucepan having a lid -with ledges, to put fire on the top.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Brider.</span>—To pass a packthread -through poultry, game, &c., to keep -together their members.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Caramel</span> (burnt sugar).—This is made -with a piece of sugar, of the size of a -nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan; -upon which a cupful of stock is gradually -poured, stirring all the time, and -adding the broth little by little. It may -be used with the feather of a quill, to -colour meats, such as the upper part of -fricandeaux; and to impart colour to -sauces. Caramel made with water instead -of stock may be used to colour -<i>compôtes</i> and other <i>entremets</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Casserole.</span>—A crust of rice, which, -after having been moulded into the form -of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a -fricassee of white meat or a purée of -game.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Compôte.</span>—A stew, as of fruit or pigeons.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Consommé.</span>—Rich stock, or gravy.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Croquette.</span>—Ball of fried rice or -potatoes.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Croûtons.</span>—Sippets of bread.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Daubière.</span>—An oval stewpan, in which -<i>daubes</i> are cooked; <i>daubes</i> being meat -or fowl stewed in sauce.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Désosser.</span>—To <i>bone</i>, or take out the -bones from poultry, game, or fish. This -is an operation requiring considerable -experience.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Entrées.</span>—Small side or corner dishes -served with the first course.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Entremets.</span>—Small side or corner -dishes served with the second course.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Escalopes.</span>—Collops; small, round, -thin pieces of tender meat, or of fish, -beaten with the handle of a strong knife -to make them tender.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Feuilletage.</span>—Puff-paste.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Flamber.</span>—To singe fowl or game, -after they have been picked.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Foncer.</span>—To put in the bottom of a -saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin -broad slices of bacon.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Galette.</span>—A broad thin cake.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Gâteau.</span>—A cake, correctly speaking; -but used sometimes to denote a pudding -and a kind of tart.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Glacer.</span>—To glaze, or spread upon -hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick and -rich sauce or gravy, called <i>glaze</i>. This -is laid on with a feather or brush, and -in confectionary the term means to ice -fruits and pastry with sugar, which glistens -on hardening.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hors-d’œvres.</span>—Small dishes, or -<i>assiettes volantes</i> of sardines, anchovies, -and other relishes of this kind, served to -the guests during the first course. (<i>See</i> -<span class="smcap"><a href="#Assiettes_volantes">Assiettes volantes</a>.</span>)</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lit.</span>—A bed or layer; articles in thin -slices are placed in layers, other articles, -or seasoning, being laid between them.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Maigre.</span>—Broth, soup, or gravy, made -without meat.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Matelote.</span>—A rich fish-stew, which -is generally composed of carp, eels, -trout, or barbel. It is made with wine.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mayonnaise.</span>—Cold sauce, or salad -dressing.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Menu.</span>—The bill of fare.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Meringue.</span>—A kind of icing, made of -whites of eggs and sugar, well beaten.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Miroton.</span>—Larger slices of meat than -collops; such as slices of beef for a vinaigrette, -or ragoût or stew of onions.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mouiller.</span>—To add water, broth, or -other liquid, during the cooking.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Paner.</span>—To cover with very fine -crumbs of bread, meats, or any other -articles to be cooked on the gridiron, in -the oven, or frying-pan.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Piquer.</span>—To lard with strips of fat -bacon, poultry, game, meat, &c. This -should always be done according to the -vein of the meat, so that in carving you -slice the bacon across as well as the meat.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Poelée.</span>—Stock used instead of water -for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads, fowls, -and vegetables, to render them less insipid.—This -is rather an expensive -preparation.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Purée.</span>—Vegetables or meat reduced -to a very smooth pulp, which is afterwards -mixed with enough liquid to make -it of the consistency of very thick soup.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Ragoût.</span>—Stew or hash.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Remoulade.</span>—Salad dressing.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Rissoles.</span>—Pastry, made of light puff-paste, -and cut into various forms, and -fried. They may be filled with fish, -meat, or sweets.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Roux.</span>—Brown and white; French -thickening.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Salmi.</span>—Ragoût of game previously -roasted.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sauce Piquante.</span>—A sharp sauce, in -which somewhat of a vinegar flavour -predominates.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sauter.</span>—To dress with sauce in a -saucepan, repeatedly moving it about.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Tamis.</span>—Tammy, a sort of open cloth -or sieve through which to strain broth -and sauces, so as to rid them of small -bones, froth, &c.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Tourte.</span>—Tart. Fruit pie.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Trousser.</span>—To truss a bird; to put -together the body and tie the wings and -thighs, in order to round it for roasting or -boiling, each being tied then with packthread, -to keep it in the required form.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Vol-au-vent.</span>—A rich crust of very -fine puff-paste, which may be filled with -various delicate ragoûts or fricassees, of -fish, flesh, or fowl. Fruit may also be -inclosed in a <i>vol-au-vent</i>.</p> - - -<h3>FRITTERS, Indian.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 tablespoonfuls of flour, -boiling water, the yolks of 4 eggs, the -whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, -jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour into a basin, -and pour over it sufficient <i>boiling</i> water -to make it into a stiff paste, taking care -to stir and beat it well, to prevent it -getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to -cool, and then break into it (<i>without -beating them at first</i>) the yolks of 4 eggs -and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all -well together. Have ready some boiling -lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of -batter in at a time, and fry the fritters -of a light brown. They should rise so -much as to be almost like balls. Serve -on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or -marmalade dropped in between each -fritter. This is an excellent dish for a -hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly -arrives, it being so easily and -quickly made, and it is always a great -favourite. <i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 8 minutes -to fry the fritters. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the jam, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FRITTERS, Plain.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 -pint of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the flour to a -smooth batter with a small quantity of -the milk; stir in the eggs, which should -be well whisked, and then the remainder -of the milk; beat the whole to a perfectly -smooth batter, and should it be -found not quite thin enough, add two or -three tablespoonfuls more milk. Have -ready a frying-pan, with plenty of boiling -lard in it; drop in rather more than -a tablespoonful at a time of the batter -and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning -them when sufficiently cooked on one -side. Drain them well from the greasy -moisture by placing them upon a piece -of blotting-paper before the fire; dish -them on a white d’oyley, sprinkle over -them sifted sugar, and send to table -with them a cut lemon and plenty of -pounded sugar. <i>Time.</i>—From 6 to 8 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>FRUIT, to Bottle Fresh. (Very -useful in Winter.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Fresh fruits, such as -currants, raspberries, cherries, gooseberries, -plums of all kinds, damsons, -&c.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, new -corks to fit them tightly. <i>Mode.</i>—Let -the fruit be full grown, but not too ripe, -and gathered in dry weather. Pick it off -the stalks without bruising or breaking -the skin, and reject any that is at all -blemished: if gathered in the damp, or -if the skins are cut at all, the fruit will -mould. Have ready some <i>perfectly dry</i> -glass bottles, and some nice <i>new</i> soft -corks or bungs; burn a match in each -bottle, to exhaust the air, and quickly -place the fruit in to be preserved; gently -cork the bottles, and put them in a very -cool oven, where let them remain until the -fruit has shrunk away a fourth part. Then -take the bottles out; <i>do not open them</i>, -but immediately beat the corks in tight, -cut off the tops, and cover them with -melted resin. If kept in a dry place, the -fruit will remain good for months; and -on this principally depends the success -of the preparation; for if stored away in -a place that is in the least damp, the -fruit will soon spoil. <i>Time.</i>—From 5 to -6 hours in a very slow oven.</p> - - -<h3>FRUIT, to Bottle Fresh.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any kind of fresh fruit, -such as currants, cherries, gooseberries, -all kinds of plums, &c.; wide-mouthed -glass bottles, new corks to fit them -tightly. <i>Mode.</i>—the fruit must be full-grown, -not too ripe, and gathered on a -fine day. Let it be carefully picked and -put into the bottles, which must be clean -and perfectly dry. Tie over the tops of -the bottles pieces of bladder; stand the -bottles in a large pot, copper, or boiler, -with cold water to reach to their necks; -kindle a fire under, let the water boil, -and as the bladders begin to rise and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> -puff, prick them. As soon as the water -boils, extinguish the fire, and let the -bottles remain where they are, to become -cold. The next day remove the bladders, -and strew over the fruit a thick -layer of pounded sugar; fit the bottles -with cork, and let each cork lie close at -hand to its own bottle. Hold for a few -moments, in the neck of the bottle, two -or three lighted matches, and when they -have filled the bottle neck with gas, and -before they go out, remove them very -quickly; instantly cork the bottle closely, -and dip it in bottle-cement. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -about 8 hours.</p> - - -<h3>FRUIT, to Bottle Fresh, with -Sugar. (Very useful in Winter.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any kind of fresh fruit; -to each quart bottle allow ¼ lb. of pounded -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the fruit be gathered -in dry weather. Pick it carefully, -and drop it into <i>clean</i> and <i>very dry</i> quart -glass bottles, sprinkling over it the above -proportion of pounded sugar to each -quart. Put the corks in the bottles, and -place them in a copper of cold water up -to their necks, with small hay-wisps -round them, to prevent the bottles from -knocking together. Light the fire under, -bring the water gradually to boil, and let -it simmer gently until the fruit in the -bottles is reduced nearly one third. Extinguish -the fire, <i>and let the bottles remain -in the water until it is perfectly cold</i>; then -take them out, make the corks secure, -and cover them with melted resin or wax. -<i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour from the time the -water commences to boil.</p> - - -<h3>FRUIT TURNOVERS (suitable -for Pic-Nics).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste, any kind of -fruit, sugar to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -some puff-paste by recipe; roll it out to -the thickness of about ¼ inch, and cut it -out in pieces of a circular form; pile the -fruit on half of the paste, sprinkle over -some sugar, wet the edges and turn the -paste over. Press the edges together, -ornament them, and brush the turnovers -over with the white of an egg; sprinkle -over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a -brisk oven, for about 20 minutes. Instead of -putting the fruit in raw, it may -be boiled down with a little sugar first, -and then inclosed in the crust; or jam, -of any kind, may be substituted for fresh -fruit. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Sufficient.</i>—½ -lb. of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>GAME, Hashed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold game, 1 onion -stuck with 3 cloves, a few whole peppers, -a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste, -thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of -port wine, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint -of water or weak stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -remains of cold game into joints, reserve -the best pieces, and the inferior ones -and trimmings put into a stewpan with -the onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and -water or weak stock; stew these for -about an hour, and strain the gravy; -thicken it with butter and flour; add the -wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in -the pieces of game, and let them gradually -warm through by the side of the -fire; do not allow it to boil, or the game -will be hard. When on the point of -simmering, serve, and garnish the dish -with sippets of toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -1¼ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Any kind of game may be -hashed by the above recipe, and the flavour -may be varied by adding flavoured -vinegars, curry powder, &c.; but we -cannot recommend these latter ingredients, -as a dish of game should really -have a gamy taste; and if too many -sauces, essences, &c., are added to the -gravy, they quite overpower and destroy -the flavour the dish should possess.</p> - - -<h3>GERMAN PUFFS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, ½ -pint of new milk, 2 oz. of melted butter, -little salt and nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the -2 eggs be well beaten, then mix all the ingredients -well together, and heat them -up just before they are put into little -cups half full for baking. Bake for ¼ -hour in a hot oven till the puffs are of a -nice brown; turn out on a flat dish, rub -a little butter over each puff, and dust -on it powdered sugar. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>GHERKINS, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salt and water, 1 oz. of -bruised ginger ½ oz. of whole black -pepper, ¼ oz. of whole allspice, 4 cloves,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> -2 blades of mace, a little horseradish. -This proportion of pepper, spices, &c., -for 1 quart of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the -gherkins remain in salt and water for 3 -or 4 days, when take them out, wipe -perfectly dry, and put them into a stone -jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover -them, with spices and pepper, &c., in -the above proportion, for 10 minutes; -pour it, quite boiling, over the gherkins, -cover the jar with vine-leaves, and -put over them a plate, setting them near -the fire, where they must remain all -night. Next day drain off the vinegar, -boil it up again, and pour it hot over -them. Cover up with fresh leaves, and -let the whole remain till quite cold. Now -tie down closely with bladder to exclude -the air, and in a month or two they -will be fit for use. <i>Time.</i>—4 days. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of July to the -end of August.</p> - - -<h3>GIBLET PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A set of duck or goose -giblets, 1 lb. of rump-steak, 1 onion, ½ -teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a -bunch of savoury herbs, plain crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—Clean, and put the giblets into -a stewpan with an onion, whole pepper, -and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather -more than a pint of water, and simmer -gently for about 1½ hour. Take them -out, let them cool, and cut them into -pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish -with a few pieces of rump-steak; add a -layer of giblets and a few more pieces of -steak; season with pepper and salt, and -pour in the gravy (which should be -strained), that the giblets were stewed -in; cover with a plain crust, and bake -for rather more than 1½ hour in a brisk -oven. Cover a piece of paper over the -pie, to prevent the crust taking too -much colour. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour to stew -the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the -pie. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the giblets, -1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>GIBLET SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 sets of goose or duck -giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, a few -bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large -onions, 2 carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, -salt and pepper to taste, ¼ pint of cream, -1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessertspoonful -of flour, 3 quarts of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards -in 8 pieces, and put them in a stewpan -with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, -onions, herbs, pepper, and -salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and -simmer till the giblets are tender, taking -care to skim well. When the giblets are -done, take them out, put them in your -tureen, strain the soup through a sieve, -add the cream and butter, mixed with a -dessertspoonful of flour, boil it up for a -few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. -It can be flavoured with port wine -and a little mushroom ketchup, instead -of cream. Add salt to taste. <i>Time.</i>—3 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>GINGER, Apple. (A Dessert Dish.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of any kind of hard -apples, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1½ pint of -water, 1 oz. of tincture of ginger. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the sugar and water until they -form a rich syrup, adding the ginger -when it boils up. Pare, core, and cut -the apples into pieces; dip them in cold -water to preserve the colour, and boil -them in the syrup until transparent; but -be careful not to let them break. Put -the pieces of apple into jars, pour over -the syrup, and carefully exclude the air, -by well covering them. It will remain -good some time, if kept in a dry place. -<i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 10 minutes to boil the -syrup; about ½ hour to simmer the -apples. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 -or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in -September, October, or November.</p> - - -<h3>GINGER-BEER.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2½ lbs. of loaf sugar, 1½ -oz. of bruised ginger, 1 oz. of cream of -tartar, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 3 -gallons of boiling water, two large tablespoonfuls -of thick and fresh brewer’s -yeast. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the lemons, squeeze -the juice, strain it, and put the peel and -juice into a large earthen pan, with the -bruised ginger, cream of tartar, and loaf -sugar. Put over these ingredients 3 -gallons of <i>boiling</i> water; let it stand -until just warm, when add the yeast, -which should be thick and perfectly -fresh. Stir the contents of the pan well, -and let them remain near the fire all -night, covering the pan over with a -cloth. The next day skim off the yeast, -and pour the liquor carefully into another -vessel, leaving the sediment; then bottle -immediately, and tie the corks down,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> -and in 3 days the ginger-beer will be fit -for use. For some tastes, the above -proportion of sugar may be found rather -too large, when it may be diminished; -but the beer will not keep so long good. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 2<i>s.</i>; or ½<i>d.</i> -per bottle. <i>Sufficient</i> to fill 4 dozen -ginger-beer bottles. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -should be made during the summer -months.</p> - - -<h3>GINGER CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 -pint of cream, 3 oz. of preserved ginger, -2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar -to taste, 1 oz. of isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice -the ginger finely; put it into a -basin with the syrup, the well-beaten -yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these -ingredients well together, and stir them -over the fire for about 10 minutes, or -until the mixture thickens; then take it -off the fire, whisk till nearly cold, -sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, -which should be melted and strained, -and serve the cream in a glass dish. It -may be garnished with slices of preserved -ginger or candied citron. <i>Time.</i>—About -10 minutes to stir the cream -over the fire. <i>Average cost</i>, with cream -at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a -good-sized dish. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>GINGER, Preserved,</h3> - -<p>Comes from the West Indies. It is -made by scalding the roots when they -are green and full of sap, then peeling -them in cold water and putting them -into jars, with a rich syrup; in which -state we receive them. It should be -chosen of a deep yellow colour, with a -little transparency. What is dark-coloured, -fibrous, and stringy, is not good. -Ginger roots, fit for preserving and in size -equal to West Indian, have been produced -in the Royal Agricultural Garden -in Edinburgh.</p> - - -<h3>GINGER PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -suet, ¼ lb. of moist sugar, 2 large teaspoonfuls -of grated ginger. <i>Mode.</i>—Shred -the suet very fine, mix it with the -flour, sugar, and ginger; stir all well -together; butter a basin, and put the -mixture in dry; tie a cloth over, and -boil for 3 hours. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>GINGER WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 9 gallons of water -allow 27 lbs. of loaf sugar, 9 lemons, 12 -oz. of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of -yeast, 2 lbs. of raisins stoned and chopped, -1 pint of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -together for 1 hour in a copper (let it -previously be well scoured and beautifully -clean) the water, sugar, <i>lemon-rinds</i>, -and bruised ginger; remove every particle -of scum as it rises, and when the -liquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a -large tub or pan, as it must not remain -in the copper. When nearly cold, add -the yeast, which must be thick and very -fresh, and, the next day, put all in a -dry cask with the strained lemon-juice -and chopped raisins. Stir the wine every -day for a fortnight; then add the -brandy, stop the cask down by degrees, -and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> per gallon. <i>Sufficient</i> -to make 9 gallons of wine. <i>Seasonable.</i>—The -best time for making this wine is -either in March or September.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Wine made early in March will -be fit to bottle in June.</p> - - -<h3>GINGERBREAD, Thick.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of treacle, ¼ lb. of -butter, ¼ lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1½ -lb. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, ½ oz. of -ground allspice, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate -of soda, ¼ pint of warm milk, 3 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour into a basin, with -the sugar, ginger, and allspice; mix -these together; warm the butter, and -add it, with the treacle, to the other -ingredients. Stir well; make the milk -just warm, dissolve the carbonate of soda -in it, and mix the whole into a nice -smooth dough with the eggs, which -should be previously well whisked; pour -the mixture into a buttered tin, and -bake it from ¾ to 1 hour, or longer, -should the gingerbread be very thick. -Just before it is done, brush the top -over with the yolk of an egg beaten up -with a little milk, and put it back in the -oven to finish baking. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per square. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>GINGERBREAD, White.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -butter, ½ lb. of loaf sugar, the rind of 1 -lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg -grated, ½ teaspoonful of carbonate of -soda, 1 gill of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> -butter into the flour; add the sugar, -which should be finely pounded and sifted, -and the minced lemon-rind, ginger, -and nutmeg. Mix these well together; -make the milk just warm, stir in the -soda, and work the whole into a nice -smooth paste; roll it out, cut it into -cakes, and bake in a moderate oven -from 15 to 20 minutes. <i>Time.</i>—15 to 20 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>GINGERBREAD-NUTS, Rich -Sweetmeats.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of treacle, ¼ lb. of -clarified butter, 1 lb. of coarse brown -sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of -candied orange-peel, 1 oz. of candied angelica, -½ oz. of candied lemon-peel, ½ oz. -of coriander seeds, ½ oz. of caraway -seeds, 1 egg; flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -treacle into a basin, and pour over it the -butter, melted so as not to oil, the sugar, -and ginger. Stir these ingredients well -together, and whilst mixing, add the -candied peel, which should be cut into -very small pieces, but not bruised, and -the caraway and coriander seeds, which -should be pounded. Having mixed all -thoroughly together, break in an egg, -and work the whole up with as much -fine flour as may be necessary to form a -paste. Make this into nuts of any size, -and put them on a tin plate, and bake -in a slow oven from ¼ to ½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -to ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to -1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>GINGERBREAD-NUTS, Sunderland. -(An Excellent Recipe.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1¾ lb. of treacle, 1 lb. of -moist sugar, 1 lb. of butter, 2¾ lbs. -of flour, 1½ oz. of ground ginger, 1½ oz. -of allspice, 1½ oz. of coriander-seeds. -<i>Mode.</i>—Let the allspice, coriander-seeds, -and ginger be freshly ground; put them -into a basin, with the flour and sugar, -and mix these ingredients well together; -warm the treacle and butter together; -then with a spoon work it into the flour, -&c. until the whole forms a nice smooth -paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon -on a piece of buttered paper, and bake -in rather a slow oven from 20 minutes -to ½ hour. A little candied lemon-peel -mixed with the above is an improvement, -and a great authority in culinary matters -suggests the addition of a little cayenne -pepper in gingerbread. Whether it be -advisable to use the latter ingredient or -not, we leave our readers to decide. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>GLAZE for covering Cold Hams, -Tongues, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Stock, doubling the quantity -of meat in the recipes. <i>Mode.</i>—We -may remark at the outset, that unless -glaze is wanted in very large quantities, -it is seldom made expressly. Either of -the stocks, boiled down and reduced -very considerably, will be found to produce -a very good glaze. Put the stock -into a stewpan, over a nice clear fire; -let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff, -when keep stirring, to prevent its burning. -The moment it is sufficiently reduced, -and come to a glaze, turn it into -the glaze-pot before it gets cold. As, however, -this is not to be found in every -establishment, a white earthenware jar -would answer the purpose; and this may -be placed in a vessel of boiling water, to -melt the glaze when required. It should -never be warmed in a saucepan, except -on the principle of the bain marie, lest -it should reduce too much, and become -black and bitter. If the glaze is wanted -of a pale colour, more veal than beef -should be used in making the stock; -and it is as well to omit turnips and -celery, as those impart a disagreeable -bitter flavour.</p> - - -<h3>GLAZE-KETTLE.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 202px;"> -<img src="images/illus-139.jpg" width="202" height="175" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">GLAZE-KETTLE.</div> -</div> - -<p>This is a kettle used for keeping the -strong stock boiled down to a jelly, -which is known by the name of glaze. -It is composed of two tin vessels, as -shown in the cut, one of which, the -upper,—containing the glaze, is inserted -into one of larger diameter, and containing -boiling water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>GLAZE, to, Cold Joints, &c.</h3> - -<p>Melt the glaze by placing the vessel -which contains it, into the bain marie or -saucepan of boiling water; brush it over -the meat with a paste-brush, and if in -places it is not quite covered, repeat the -operation. The glaze should not be too -dark a colour.</p> - - -<h3>GOLDEN PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of bread-crumbs, -¼ lb. of suet, ¼ lb. of marmalade, ¼ lb. of -sugar, 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the bread-crumbs -into a basin; mix with them the -suet, which should be finely minced, the -marmalade, and the sugar; stir all these -ingredients well together, beat the eggs -to a froth, moisten the pudding with -these, and when well mixed put it into a -mould or buttered basin; tie down with -a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours. -When turned out, strew a little fine-sifted -sugar over the top, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 11<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The mould may be ornamented -with stoned raisins, arranged in any fanciful -pattern, before the mixture is poured -in, which would add very much to the -appearance of the pudding. For a plainer -pudding, double the quantities of the -bread-crumbs; and if the eggs do not -moisten it sufficiently, use a little milk.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSE, Green.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Goose, 3 oz. of butter, -pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Geese -are called green till they are about four -months old, and should not be stuffed. -After it has been singed and trussed, put -into the body a seasoning of pepper and -salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. -Roast before a clear fire for about ¾ hour, -froth and brown it nicely, and serve with -a brown gravy, and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. -This dish should be garnished -with water-cresses. <i>Time.</i>—About -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in -June, July, and August.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSE, Hashed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast goose, 2 -onions, 2 oz. of butter, 1 pint of boiling -water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper -and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of -port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom -ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the goose into -pieces of the size required; the inferior -joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan -to make the gravy; slice and fry the -onions in the butter of a very pale brown; -add these to the trimmings, and pour -over about a pint of boiling water; stew -these gently for ¾ hour, then skim and -strain the liquor. Thicken it with flour, -and flavour with port wine and ketchup -in the above proportion; add a seasoning -of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces -of goose; let these get thoroughly hot -through, but do not allow them to boil, -and serve with sippets of toasted bread. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, rather more than 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the cold -goose, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSE, Roast.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 276px;"> -<img src="images/illus-140.jpg" width="276" height="119" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST GOOSE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Goose, 4 large onions, -10 sage-leaves, ¼ lb. of bread-crumbs, -1½ oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, -1 egg. <i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Select -a goose with a clean white skin, plump -breast, and yellow feet: if these latter -are red, the bird is old. Should the weather -permit, let it hang for a few days; -by so doing the flavour will be very much -improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefully -wash and wipe the goose; cut off -the neck close to the back, leaving the -skin long enough to turn over; cut off -the feet at the first joint, and separate -the pinions at the first joint. Beat the -breastbone flat with a rolling-pin, put a -skewer through the under part of each -wing, and having drawn up the legs -closely, put a skewer into the middle of -each, and pass the same quite through -the body. Insert another skewer into -the small of the leg, bring it close down -to the side-bone, run it through, and do -the same to the other side. Now cut off -the end of the vent, and make a hole in -the skin sufficiently large for the passage -of the rump, in order to keep in the seasoning. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make a sage-and-onion -stuffing of the above ingredients, put it -into the body of the goose, and secure it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> -firmly at both ends by passing the rump -through the hole made in the skin, and -the other end by tying the skin of the -neck to the back: by this means the -seasoning will not escape. Put it down -to a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and -roast from 1½ to 2 hours, according -to the size. Remove the skewers, and -serve with a tureen of good gravy, and -one of well-made apple sauce. Should a -very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, -the onions should not be parboiled, -but minced raw: of the two methods the -mild seasoning is far superior. A ragoût, -or pie, should be made of the giblets, or -they may be stewed down to make gravy. -Be careful to serve the goose before the -breast falls, or its appearance will be -spoiled by coming flattened to table. -As this is rather a troublesome joint to -carve, a <i>large</i> quantity of gravy should -not be poured round the goose, but sent -in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—A large goose, 1¾ -hour; a moderate-sized one, 1/¼ to 1½ -hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -March; but in perfection from Michaelmas -to Christmas. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 or 9 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A teaspoonful of made mustard, -a saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of -cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, -are sometimes poured into the goose by -a slit made in the apron. This sauce is -by many considered an improvement.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSE, Roast, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/illus-141a.jpg" width="285" height="101" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST GOOSE.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 178px;"> -<img src="images/illus-141b.jpg" width="178" height="303" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE -OF GOOSE.</div> -</div> -<p>It would not be fair to say that this -dish bodes a great deal of happiness to -an inexperienced carver, especially if -there is a large party to serve, and the -slices off the breast should not suffice to -satisfy the desires and cravings of many -wholesome appetites, produced, may be, -by the various sports in vogue at Michaelmas -and Christmas. The beginning of -the task, however, is not in any way difficult. -Evenly-cut slices, not too thick -or too thin, should be carved from the -breast in the direction of the line from -2 to 3; after the first slice has been cut, -a hole should be made with the knife in -the part called the apron, passing it -round the line as indicated by the figures -1, 1, 1; here the stuffing is located, and -some of this should be served on each -plate, unless it is discovered that it is -not agreeable to the taste of some one -guest. If the carver manages cleverly, -he will be able to cut a very large number -of fine slices off the breast, and the -more so if he commences close down by -the wing, and carves upwards towards -the ridge of the breastbone. As many -slices as can be taken from the breast -being carved, the wings should be cut -off, and the same -process as described -in carving -boiled fowl is made -use of in this instance, -only more -dexterity and -greater force will -most probably be -required. The -shape of the leg, -when disengaged -from the body of -the goose, should -be like that shown -in the accompanying -engraving. It -will be necessary, -perhaps, in taking -off the leg, to turn -the goose on its side, and then, pressing -down the small end of the leg, the knife -should be passed under it from the top -quite down to the joint; the leg being -now turned back by the fork, the knife -must cut through the joint, loosening the -thighbone from its socket. The merrythought, -which in a goose is not so large -as might be expected, is disengaged in -the same way as that of a fowl—by passing -the knife under it, and pressing it -backwards towards the neck. The neck-bones, -of which we give a cut, are freed -by the same process as are those of a -fowl; and the same may be said of all -the other parts of this bird. The breast -of a goose is the part most esteemed; -all parts, however, are good, and full of -juicy flavour.</p> - - - - -<h3>GOOSE STUFFING, Soyer’s Recipe -for.</h3> - -<p>Take 4 apples peeled and cored, 4 -onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of -lemon thyme not broken, and boil them -in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover -them; when done, pulp them through a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> -sieve, removing the sage and thyme; -then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes -to cause it to be sufficiently dry -without sticking to the hand; add pepper -and salt, and stuff the bird.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRIES, Compôte of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Syrup; to 1 pint of syrup -allow nearly a quart of gooseberries. -<i>Mode.</i>—Top and tail the gooseberries, -which should not be very ripe, and pour -over them some boiling water; then take -them out and plunge them into cold -water with which has been mixed a tablespoonful -of vinegar, which will assist to -keep the fruit a good colour. Make a -pint of syrup, and when it boils drain -the gooseberries and put them in; simmer -them gently until the fruit is nicely -pulped and tender without being broken; -then dish the gooseberries on a glass -dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, -pour over the gooseberries, and serve -cold. <i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes to boil -the gooseberries in the syrup, 3 minutes -to reduce the syrup. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—A quart of gooseberries for 5 -or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in June.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY CHIPS. (Useful -for Dessert.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Gooseberries unripe and -green, but quite full-grown; sifted loaf -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the gooseberries, -when cleaned of tops and tails, into jars, -and boil them in a copper till quite soft. -To every lb. of pulp put ½ lb. of loaf sugar -sifted: the sugar must be stirred in very -gently. Then pour out the sweetened -pulp on flat dishes, about ⅛ inch thick, -which must be set in the sun to dry. -When sufficiently dried in the sun, the -pulp may be cut into strips, and twisted -into any fanciful shapes, bows, &c. <i>Time</i> -for drying, according to the amount of -sun. <i>Seasonable</i> at all times.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—These chips may be kept for -years in tin boxes, if packed quite dry, -with layers of paper between the rows.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY FOOL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Green gooseberries; to -every pint of pulp add 1 pint of milk, or -½ pint of cream and ½ pint of milk; sugar -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the tops and tails -off the gooseberries, put them into a jar -with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little -good moist sugar; set this jar in a saucepan -of boiling water, and let it boil until -the fruit is soft enough to mash. When -done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this -pulp through a colander, and stir to every -pint the above proportion of milk, or -equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain -if the mixture is sweet enough, -and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not -be eatable; and in mixing the milk and -gooseberries add the former very gradually -to these: serve in a glass dish, or in -small glasses. This, although a very old-fashioned -and homely dish, is, when well -made, very delicious, and, if properly -sweetened, a very suitable preparation -for children. <i>Time.</i>—From ¾ to 1 hour. -<i>Average cost,</i> 6<i>d.</i> per pint, with milk. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—A pint of milk and a pint of -gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6 children. -<i>Seasonable</i> in May and June.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit allow -¾ lb. of loaf sugar; currant-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Select red hairy gooseberries; -have them gathered in dry weather, -when quite ripe, without being too soft. -Weigh them; with a pair of scissors cut -off the tops and tails, and to every 6 lbs. -of fruit have ready ½ pint of red-currant -juice, drawn as for jelly. Put the gooseberries -and currant-juice into a preserving-pan, -let them boil tolerably -quickly, keeping them well stirred; when -they begin to break, add to them the -sugar, and keep simmering until the jam -becomes firm, carefully skimming and -stirring it, that it does not burn at the -bottom. It should be boiled rather a -long time, or it will not keep. Put it -into pots (not too large), let it get perfectly -cold, then cover the pots down -with oiled and egged papers. <i>Time.</i>—About -1 hour to boil the gooseberries in -the currant-juice, from ½ to ¾ hour with -the sugar. <i>Average cost</i>, per lb. pot, from -6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1½ pint of -fruit for a lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in June or July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 8 lbs. of red, -rough, ripe gooseberries allow 1 quart of -red-currant juice, 5 lbs. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Have the fruit gathered in dry -weather, and cut off the tops and tails. -Prepare 1 quart of red-currant juice, the -same as for red-currant jelly; put it into -a preserving-pan with the sugar, and -keep stirring until the latter is dissolved.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> -Keep it boiling for about 5 minutes; -skim well; then put in the gooseberries, -and let them boil from ½ to ¾ hour; then -turn the whole into an earthen pan, and -let it remain for 2 days. Boil the jam -up again until it looks clear; put it into -pots, and when cold, cover with oiled -paper, and over the jars put tissue-paper -brushed over on both sides with the -white of an egg, and store away in a dry -place. Care must be taken, in making -this, to keep the jam well stirred and -well skimmed, to prevent it burning at -the bottom of the pan, and to have it -very clear. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to boil -the currant-juice and sugar after the -latter is dissolved; from ½ to ¾ hour to -simmer the gooseberries the first time, -¼ hour the second time of boiling. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1½ pint of fruit for a -lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in June -or July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY JAM, White or -Green.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal weight of fruit and -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Select the gooseberries -not very ripe, either white or green, and -top and tail them. Boil the sugar with -water (allowing ½ pint to every lb.) for -about ¼ hour, carefully removing the -scum as it rises; then put in the gooseberries, -and simmer gently till clear and -firm: try a little of the jam on a plate; if -it jellies when cold, it is done, and should -then be poured into pots. When cold, -cover with oiled paper, and tissue-paper -brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten -white of an egg, and stow away -in a dry place. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to boil -the sugar and water, ¾ hour the jam. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1½ pint of fruit for a lb. -pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in June.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Gooseberries; to every -pint of juice allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the gooseberries, after cutting -off the tops and tails, into a preserving-pan, -and stir them over the fire -until they are quite soft; then strain -them through a sieve, and to every pint -of juice allow ¾ lb. of sugar. Boil the -juice and sugar together for nearly ¾ -hour, stirring and skimming all the time; -and if the jelly appears firm when a little -of it is poured on to a plate, it is done, -and should then be taken up and put -into small pots. Cover the pots with -oiled and egged papers, the same as for -currant jelly, and store away in a dry -place. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour to simmer the -gooseberries without the sugar; ¾ hour to -boil the juice. <i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to -10<i>d.</i> per ½-lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> in July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Gooseberries, 3 eggs, -1½ oz. of butter, ½ pint of bread-crumbs, -sugar to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the gooseberries -into a jar, previously cutting off -the tops and tails; place this jar in boiling -water, and let it boil until the gooseberries -are soft enough to pulp; then -beat them through a coarse sieve, and to -every pint of pulp add 3 well-whisked -eggs, 1½ oz. of butter, ½ pint of bread-crumbs, -and sugar to taste; beat the -mixture well, put a border of puff-paste -round the edge of a pie-dish, put in the -pudding, bake for about 40 minutes, -strew sifted sugar over, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About -40 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from May to July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> -<div class="figright" style="width: 224px;"> -<img src="images/illus-143.jpg" width="224" height="106" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED FRUIT PUDDING</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of suet crust, 1½ -pint of green gooseberries, ¼ lb. of moist -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Line a pudding-basin -with suet crust rolled out to about ½ inch -in thickness, and, with a pair of scissors, -cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries; -fill the basin with the fruit, put -in the sugar, -and cover -with crust. -Pinch the -edges of the -pudding together, -tie -over it a -floured cloth, -put it into boiling water, and boil from -2½ to 3 hours; turn it out of the basin, -and serve with a jug of cream. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -to 3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from May to July.</p> - - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY SAUCE for -Boiled Mackerel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of green gooseberries, -3 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> -(veal gravy may be substituted for this), -2 oz. of fresh butter; seasoning to taste -of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the gooseberries in water -until quite tender; strain them, and rub -them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan -the Béchamel or gravy, with the -butter and seasoning; add the pulp from -the gooseberries, mix all well together, -and heat gradually through. A little -pounded sugar added to this sauce is by -many persons considered an improvement, -as the saccharine matter takes off -the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit. -<i>Time.</i>—Boil the gooseberries from 20 -minutes to ½ hour. <i>Sufficient.</i>—This -quantity, for a large dish of mackerel. -<i>Seasonable</i> from May to July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY TART.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of gooseberries, -½ lb. of short crust, ¼ lb. of moist sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—With a pair of scissors cut off -the tops and tails of the gooseberries; -put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the -fruit high in the centre, and put in the -sugar; line the edge of the dish with -short crust, put on the cover, and ornament -the edges of the tart; bake in a -good oven for about ¾ hour, and before -being sent to table, strew over it some -fine-sifted sugar. A jug of cream, or a -dish of boiled or baked custards, should -always accompany this dish. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from May to -July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of gooseberries, -sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard, a plateful -of whipped cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient -moist sugar to sweeten them, and boil -them until reduced to a pulp. Put this -pulp at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour -over it a pint of custard made by recipe, -and, when cold, cover with whipped -cream. The cream should be whipped -the day before it is wanted for table, as -it will then be so much firmer and more -solid; but it should not be added to the -fruit until a short time before it is required. -The dish may be garnished as -fancy dictates. <i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour to -boil the gooseberries. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 trifle. <i>Seasonable</i> -in May, June, and July.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. (An -Excellent Recipe.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, -6 gallons of water, 12 lbs. of -foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mash the gooseberries (which -should be quite ripe) in a tub with a -mallet; put to them the water nearly -milk-warm; let this stand 24 hours; then -strain it through a sieve, and put the -sugar to it; mix it well, and tun it. -These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask; -and if it be not quite full, more water must -be added. Let the mixture be stirred -from the bottom of the cask two or three -times daily for three or four days, to -assist the melting of the sugar; then -paste a piece of linen cloth over the -bunghole, and set the cask in a warm -place, <i>but not in the sun</i>; any corner of -a warm kitchen is the best situation for -it. The following spring it should be -drawn off into stone bottles, and the -vinegar will be fit for use twelve months -after it is made. This will be found a -most excellent preparation, greatly superior -to much that is sold under the -name of the best white wine vinegar. -Many years’ experience has proved that -pickle made with this vinegar will keep, -when bought vinegar will not preserve -the ingredients. The cost per gallon is -merely nominal, especially to those who -reside in the country and grow their -own gooseberries; the coarse sugar is -then the only ingredient to be purchased. -<i>Time.</i>—To remain in the cask 9 months. -<i>Average cost</i>, when the gooseberries have -to be purchased, 1<i>s.</i> per gallon; when -they are grown at home, 6<i>d.</i> per gallon. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—This should be made the -end of June or the beginning of July, -when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful.</p> - - -<h3>GOOSEBERRY WINE, Effervescing.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every gallon of water -allow 6 lbs. of green gooseberries, 3 lbs. -of lump sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—This wine should -be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in -order to avoid the flavour which the fruit -would give to the wine when in a mature -state. Its briskness depends more upon -the time of bottling than upon the unripe -state of the fruit, for effervescing -wine can be made from fruit that is ripe -as well as that which is unripe. The fruit -should be selected when it has nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> -attained its full growth, and consequently -before it shows any tendency to ripen. -Any bruised or decayed berries, and those -that are very small, should be rejected. -The blossom and stalk ends should be -removed, and the fruit well bruised in a -tub or pan, in such quantities as to -insure each berry being broken without -crushing the seeds. Pour the water -(which should be warm) on the fruit, -squeeze and stir it with the hand until -all the pulp is removed from the skin and -seeds, and cover the whole closely for -24 hours; after which, strain it through -a coarse bag, and press it with as much -force as can be conveniently applied, to -extract the whole of the juice and liquor -the fruit may contain. To every 40 or -50 lbs. of fruit one gallon more of hot -water may be passed through the <i>marc</i>, -or husks, in order to obtain any soluble -matter that may remain, and be again -pressed. The juice should be put into a -tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all -of it, and the sugar added to it. Let it -be well stirred until the sugar is dissolved, -and place the pan in a warm situation; -keep it closely covered, and let it ferment -for a day or two. It must then be drawn -off into clean casks, placed a little on one -side for the scum that arises to be thrown -out, and the casks kept filled with the -remaining “must,” that should be reserved -for that purpose. When the active -fermentation has ceased, the casks should -be plugged upright, again filled, if necessary, -the bungs be put in loosely, and, -after a few days, when the fermentation -is a little more languid (which may be -known by the hissing noise ceasing), the -bungs should be driven in tight, and a -spile-hole made, to give vent if necessary. -About November or December, on a clear -fine day, the wine should be racked from -its lees into clean casks, which may be -rinsed with brandy. After a month, it -should be examined to see if it is sufficiently -clear for bottling; if not, it must -be fined with isinglass, which may be -dissolved in some of the wine: 1 oz. will -be sufficient for 9 gallons. In bottling -the wine, it will be necessary to wire the -corks down, or to tie them down with -string. Old champagne bottles are the -best for this wine. In March or April, or -when the gooseberry bushes begin to -blossom, the wine must be bottled, in -order to insure its being effervescing. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this the end of May or beginning -of June, before the berries ripen.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVIES, General Stock for</h3> - -<p>By the addition of various store sauces, -thickening and flavouring, good stock -may be converted into good gravies. It -should be borne in mind, however, that -the goodness and strength of spices, -wines, flavourings, &c., evaporate, and -that they lose a great deal of their fragrance -if added to the gravy a long time -before they are wanted. If this point -is attended to, a saving of one half the -quantity of these ingredients will be -effected, as, with long boiling, the flavour -almost entirely passes away. The -shank-bones of mutton, previously well -soaked, will be found a great assistance -in enriching gravies; a kidney or melt, -beef skirt, trimmings of meat, &c. &c., -answer very well when only a small quantity -is wanted, and a good gravy need -not necessarily be so very expensive; for -economically-prepared dishes are oftentimes -found as savoury and wholesome as -dearer ones. The cook should also remember -that the fragrance of gravies -should not be overpowered by too much -spice, or any strong essences, and that -they should always be warmed in a <i>bain -marie</i>, after they are flavoured, or else in -a jar or jug placed in a saucepan full of -boiling water. The remains of roast-meat -gravy should always be saved; as, -when no meat is at hand, a very nice -gravy in haste may be made from it, and -when added to hashes, ragoûts, &c., is a -great improvement.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, a Good Beef, for Poultry, -Game, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of lean beef, ½ pint -of cold water, 1 shalot or small onion, ½ a -teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 1 -tablespoonful of Harvey’s sauce or mushroom -ketchup, ½ a teaspoonful of arrowroot. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the beef into small -pieces, and put it, with the water, into a -stewpan. Add the shalot and seasoning, -and simmer gently for 3 hours, taking -care that it does not boil fast. A short -time before it is required, take the arrowroot, -and having mixed it with a little -cold water, pour it into the gravy, which -keep stirring, adding the Harvey’s sauce, -and just letting it boil. Strain off the -gravy in a tureen, and serve very hot. -<i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per -pint.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Beef, a Quickly Made.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of shin of beef, ½ -onion, ¼ carrot, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley -and savoury herbs, a piece of butter -about the size of a walnut; cayenne and -mace to taste, ¾ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the meat into very small pieces, -slice the onion and carrot, and put them -into a small saucepan with the butter. -Keep stirring over a sharp fire until they -have taken a little colour, when add the -water and the remaining ingredients. -Simmer for ½ hour, skim well, strain, and -flavour, when it will be ready for use. -<i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, for this -quantity, 5<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Brown.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of butter, 2 large -onions, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, 2 small -slices of lean bacon (if at hand), salt and -whole pepper to taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts -of water. For thickening, 2 oz. of butter, -3 oz. of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter -into a stewpan; set this on the fire, -throw in the onions cut in rings, and fry -them a light brown; then add the beef -and bacon, which should be cut into -small square pieces; season, and pour in -a teacupful of water; let it boil for about -ten minutes, or until it is of a nice brown -colour, occasionally stirring the contents. -Now fill up with water in the above proportion; -let it boil up, when draw it to -the side of the fire to simmer very gently -for 1½ hour; strain, and when cold, take -off all the fat. In thickening this gravy, -melt 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 2 -oz. of flour, and stir till of a light-brown -colour; when cold, add it to the strained -gravy, and boil it up quickly. This -thickening may be made in larger quantities, -and kept in a stone jar for use -when wanted. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Brown, without Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 large onions, 1 large -carrot, 2 oz. of butter, 3 pints of boiling -water, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, a wineglassful -of good beer; salt and pepper to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice, flour, and fry the -onions and carrots in the butter until of -a nice light-brown colour, then add the -boiling water and the remaining ingredients; -let the whole stew gently for -about an hour, then strain, and when -cold, skim off all the fat. Thicken it, -and, if thought necessary, add a few drops -of colouring. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The addition of a small quantity -of mushroom ketchup or Harvey’s -sauce very much improves the flavour of -this gravy.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Cheap, for Minced Veal</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bones and trimmings of -cold roast or boiled veal, 1½ pint of -water, 1 onion, ¼ teaspoonful of minced -lemon-peel, ¼ teaspoonful of salt, 1 blade -of pounded mace, the juice of ¼ lemon; -thickening of butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients into a stewpan, -except the thickening and lemon-juice, -and let them simmer very gently for -rather more than 1 hour, or until the -liquor is reduced to a pint, when strain -through a hair sieve. Add a thickening -of butter and flour, and the lemon-juice; -set it on the fire, and let it just boil up, -when it will be ready for use. It may be -flavoured with a little tomato sauce, and, -where a rather dark-coloured gravy is -not objected to, ketchup, or Harvey’s -sauce, may be added at pleasure. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Cheap, for Hashes, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bones and trimmings of -the cooked joint intended for hashing, ¼ -teaspoonful of salt, ¼ teaspoonful of -whole pepper, ¼ teaspoonful of whole -allspice, a small faggot of savoury herbs, -½ head of celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, -thickening, sufficient boiling water to -cover the bones. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the bones -in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan, -with the trimmings, salt, pepper, -spice, herbs, and celery. Cover with -boiling water, and let the whole simmer -gently for 1½ or 2 hours. Slice and fry -the onion in the butter till it is of a pale -brown, and mix it gradually with the -gravy made from the bones; boil for ¼ -hour, and strain into a basin; now put -it back into the stewpan; flavour with -walnut pickle or ketchup, pickled-onion -liquor, or any store sauce that may be -preferred. Thicken with a little butter -and flour, kneaded together on a plate, -and the gravy will be ready for use. -After the thickening is added, the gravy -should just boil, to take off the rawness -of the flour. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours, or rather -more. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i>, exclusive of the -bones and trimmings.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>GRAVY for Roast Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Gravy, salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -a common dish with a small quantity of -salt in it under the meat, about a quarter -of an hour before it is removed from -the fire. When the dish is full, take it -away, baste the meat, and pour the gravy -into the dish on which the joint is to be -served.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY for Venison.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Trimmings of venison, 3 -or 4 mutton shank-bones, salt to taste, 1 -pint of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut -ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Brown the trimmings -over a nice clear fire, and put them in a -stewpan with the shank-bones and water; -simmer gently for 2 hours, strain and -skim, and add the walnut ketchup and a -seasoning of salt. Let it just boil, when -it is ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Jugged (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of shin of beef, ¼ -lb. of lean ham, 1 onion or a few shalots, -2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper -to taste, 1 blade of mace, a faggot of -savoury herbs, ½ a large carrot, ½ a head -of celery. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the beef and -ham into small pieces, and slice the vegetables; -take a jar, capable of holding -two pints of water, and arrange therein, -in layers, the ham, meat, vegetables, and -seasoning, alternately, filling up with the -above quantity of water; tie down the -jar, or put a plate over the top, so that -the steam may not escape; place it in -the oven, and let it remain there from 6 -to 8 hours; should, however, the oven -be very hot, less time will be required. -When sufficiently cooked, strain the -gravy, and when cold, remove the fat. -It may be flavoured with ketchup, wines, -or any other store sauce that may be preferred. -It is a good plan to put the jar -in a cool oven over-night, to draw the -gravy; and then it will not require so -long baking the following day. <i>Time.</i>—From -6 to 8 hours, according to the oven. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY-KETTLE.</h3> - -<p>This is a utensil which will not be -found in every kitchen; but it is a useful -one where it is necessary to keep gravies -hot for the purpose of pouring over various -dishes as they are cooking. It is -made of copper, and should, consequently, -be heated over the hot-plate, if -there be one, or a charcoal stove.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;"> -<img src="images/illus-147.jpg" width="340" height="146" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">GRAVY-KETTLE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>GRAVY made without Meat for -Fowls.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The necks, feet, livers, -and gizzards of the fowls, 1 slice of -toasted bread, ½ onion, 1 faggot of savoury -herbs, salt and pepper to taste, ½ -pint of water, thickening of butter and -flour, 1 dessertspoonful of ketchup. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly -clean, and cut them and the -neck into small pieces. Put these into a -stewpan with the bread, onion, herbs, -seasoning, livers, and gizzards; pour the -water over them and simmer gently for -1 hour. Now take out the liver, pound -it, and strain the liquor to it. Add a -thickening of butter and flour, and a -flavouring of mushroom ketchup; boil it -up and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Rich, for Hashes, Ragoûts, -&c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of shin of beef, l -large onion or a few shalots, a little flour, -a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of -mace, 2 or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, ¼ -teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 slice of -lean ham or bacon, ½ a head of celery -(when at hand), 2 pints of boiling water; -salt and cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut, -the beef into thin slices, as also the onions, -dredge them with flour, and fry of a pale -brown, but do not allow them to get -black; pour in the boiling water, let it -boil up, and skim. Add the remaining -ingredients, and simmer the whole very -gently for 2 hours, or until all the juices -are extracted from the meat; put it by -to get cold, when take off all the fat. -This gravy may be flavoured with ketchup, -store sauces, wine, or, in fact, anything -that may give additional and suitable -relish to the dish it is intended for.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> -<i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 lbs. of shin of beef, a -knuckle of veal weighing 5 lbs., a few -pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured -lean ham; ¼ lb. of butter, 4 -onions, 4 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head -of celery, 3 blades of mace, 6 cloves, a -bunch of savoury herbs, seasoning of salt -and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 6 -quarts of boiling soft water. It can be -flavoured with ketchup, Leamington -sauce, Harvey’s sauce, and a little soy. -<i>Mode.</i>—Slightly brown the meat and -ham in the butter, but do not let them -burn. When this is done, pour to it the -water, and as the scum rises, take it off; -when no more appears, add all the other -ingredients, and let the soup simmer -slowly by the fire for 6 hours without -stirring it any more from the bottom; -take it off, and let it settle; skim off all -the fat you can, and pass it through a -sieve or cloth. When perfectly cold you -can remove all the fat, and leave the -sediment untouched, which serves very -nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c. <i>Time.</i>—7 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 14 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>GRAVY, Veal, for White Sauces, -Fricassees, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 slices of nicely-flavoured -lean ham, any poultry trimmings, -3 lbs. of lean veal, a faggot of savoury -herbs, including parsley, a few green -onions (or 1 large onion may be substituted -for these), a few mushrooms, when -obtainable; 1 blade of mace, salt to -taste, 3 pints of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up -the ham and veal into small square -pieces, put these in a stewpan, moistening -them with a small quantity of water; -place them over the fire to draw down. -When the bottom of the stewpan becomes -covered with a white glaze, fill up with -water in the above proportion; add the -remaining ingredients, stew very slowly -for 3 or 4 hours, and do not forget to -skim well the moment it boils. Put it -by, and when cold take off all the fat. -This may be used for Béchamel, sauce -tournée, and many other white sauces. -<i>Time.</i>—3 or 4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> -per pint.</p> - - -<h3>GREENGAGE JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit, -weighed before being stoned, allow ¾ lb. -of lump sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Divide the greengages, -take out the stones, and put them -into a preserving-pan. Bring the fruit -to a boil, then add the sugar, and keep -stirring it over a gentle fire until it is -melted. Remove all the scum as it rises, -and, just before the jam is done, boil it -rapidly for 5 minutes. To ascertain when -it is sufficiently boiled, pour a little on a -plate, and if the syrup thickens and appears -firm, it is done. Have ready half -the kernels blanched; put them into the -jam, give them one boil, and pour the -preserve into pots. When cold, cover -down with oiled papers, and, over these, -tissue paper brushed over on both sides -with the white of an egg. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour after the sugar is added. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -about 1½ pint of fruit for -every lb. pot of jam. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in August or September.</p> - - -<h3>GREENGAGES, Compôte of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of syrup, 1 quart -of greengages. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a syrup, -skim it well, and put in the greengages -when the syrup is boiling, having previously -removed the stalks and stones from -the fruit. Boil gently for ¼ hour, or until -the fruit is tender; but take care not to -let it break, as the appearance of the -dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced -to a pulp. Take the greengages -carefully out, place them on a glass dish, -boil the syrup for another 5 minutes, let -it cool a little, pour over the fruit, and, -when cold, it will be ready for use. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes -the syrup. <i>Average cost</i>, in full season, -10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in July, August, and September.</p> - - -<h3>GREENGAGES, to Preserve and -Dry.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of sugar -allow 1 lb. of fruit, ¼ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—For this purpose, the fruit must -be used before it is quite ripe, and part -of the stalk must be left on. Weigh the -fruit, rejecting all that is in the least degree -blemished, and put it into a lined -saucepan with the sugar and water, -which should have been previously boiled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> -together to a rich syrup. Boil the fruit -in this for 10 minutes, remove it from -the fire, and drain the greengages. The -next day, boil up the syrup and put in -the fruit again, and let it simmer for 3 -minutes, and drain the syrup away. -Continue this process for 5 or 6 days, -and the last time place the greengages, -when drained, on a hair sieve, and put -them in an oven or warm spot to dry; -keep them in a box, with paper between -each layer, in a place free from damp. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes the first time of boiling. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in August -or September.</p> - - -<h3>GREENGAGES, Preserved in -Syrup.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit allow -1 lb. of loaf sugar, ¼ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the sugar and water together for -about 10 minutes; divide the greengages, -take out the stones, put the fruit -into the syrup, and let it simmer gently -until nearly tender. Take it off the fire, -put it into a large pan, and, the next day, -boil it up again for about 10 minutes -with the kernels from the stones, which -should be blanched. Put the fruit carefully -into jars, pour over it the syrup, -and, when cold, cover down, so that the -air is quite excluded. Let the syrup be -well skimmed both the first and second -day of boiling, otherwise it will not be -clear. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil the -syrup; ¼ hour to simmer the fruit the -first day, 10 minutes the second day. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow about 1 pint of fruit -to fill a 1-lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in August or September.</p> - - -<h3>GREENS, Boiled Turnip.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; turnip-greens. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the greens -well in two or three waters, and pick off -all the decayed and dead leaves; tie -them in small bunches, and put them -into plenty of boiling water, salted in the -above proportion. Keep them boiling -quickly, with the lid of the saucepan -uncovered, and when tender, pour them -into a colander; let them drain, arrange -them in a vegetable-dish, remove the -string that the greens were tied with, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—15 to 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> for a dish for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in March, April, and May.</p> - - -<h3>GROUSE PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Grouse; cayenne, salt, -and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of rump-steak, -½ pint of well-seasoned broth, puff-paste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Line the bottom of a pie-dish -with the rump-steak cut into neat pieces, -and, should the grouse be large, cut them -into joints; but, if small, they may be -laid in the pie whole; season highly with -salt, cayenne, and black pepper; pour -in the broth, and cover with a puff-paste; -brush the crust over with the yolk of an -egg, and bake from ¾ to 1 hour. If the -grouse is cut into joints, the backbones -and trimmings will make the gravy, by -stewing them with an onion, a little -sherry, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of -mace: this should be poured in after -the pie is baked. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the grouse, -which are seldom bought, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from the 12th of August to the -beginning of December.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;"> -<img src="images/illus-149.jpg" width="268" height="97" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST GROUSE.</div> -</div> - -<h3>GROUSE, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Grouse, butter, a thick -slice of toasted bread. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the -birds hang as long as possible; pluck and -draw them; wipe, but do not wash them, -inside and out, and truss them without -the head, the same as for a roast fowl. -Many persons still continue to truss them -with the head under the wing, but the -former is now considered the most approved -method. Put them down to a -sharp clear fire; keep them well basted -the whole of the time they are cooking, -and serve them on a buttered toast, -soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little -melted butter poured over them, or with -bread-sauce and gravy. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -the brace; but seldom bought. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 -for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from -the 12th of August to the beginning of -December.</p> - - - - -<h3>GROUSE, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>Grouse may be carved in the way first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> -described in carving partridge. The -backbone of the -grouse is highly -esteemed by many, -and this part of -many game birds -is considered the finest-flavoured.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 155px;"> -<img src="images/illus-150.jpg" width="155" height="65" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST GROUSE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>GROUSE SALAD (Soyer’s Recipe -improved.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, -2 or 3 grouse; for the sauce, 1 tablespoonful -of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls -of pounded sugar, the yolks of 2 -eggs, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, -¼ oz. of salt, 12 tablespoonfuls of oil, -4 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill -of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped -tarragon and chervil. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the -eggs hard, shell them, throw them into -cold water, cut a thin slice off the bottom -to facilitate the proper placing of -them in the dish, cut each one into four -lengthwise, and make a very thin flat -border of butter, about one inch from the -edge of the dish the salad is to be served -on; fix the pieces of egg upright close -to each other, the yolk outside, or the -yolk and white alternately; lay in the -centre a fresh salad of whatever is in season, -and, having previously roasted the -grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight -or ten pieces, and prepare the sauce as -follows:—Put the shalots into a basin, -with the sugar, the yolk of an egg, the -parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees -the oil and vinegar; when all the ingredients -are well mixed, put the sauce on -ice or in a cool place. When ready to -serve, whip the cream rather thick, which -lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior -parts of the grouse on the salad, sauce -over so as to cover each piece, then lay -over the salad and the remainder of the -grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, -and serve. The eggs may be ornamented -with a little dot of radishes or beetroot -on the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut -into small diamonds, may be placed between, -or cut gherkins in slices, and a -border of them laid round. Tarragon or -chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. -The remains of cold black-game, pheasant, -or partridge may be used in the -above manner, and will make a very delicate -dish. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from the 12th of August to the -beginning of December.</p> - - -<h3>GRUEL, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 tablespoonful of Robinson’s -patent groats, 2 tablespoonfuls of -cold water, 1 pint of boiling water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mix the prepared groats smoothly -with the cold water in a basin; pour -over them the boiling water, stirring it -all the time. Put it into a very clean -saucepan; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, -keeping it well stirred; sweeten to taste, -and serve. It may be flavoured with a -small piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it -in the gruel, or a little grated nutmeg -may be put in; but in these matters the -taste of the patient should be consulted. -Pour the gruel in a tumbler, and serve. -When wine is allowed to the invalid, 2 -tablespoonfuls of sherry or port make -this preparation very nice. In cases of -colds, the same quantity of spirits is -sometimes added instead of wine. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Sufficient</i> to make a pint -of gruel.</p> - - -<h3>GUDGEONS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Egg and bread-crumbs -sufficient for the quantity of fish; hot -lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Do not scrape off the -scales, but take out the gills and inside, -and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, -flour and dip them into egg, and sprinkle -over with bread-crumbs. Fry of a nice -brown. <i>Time.</i>—3 or 4 minutes. <i>Average -cost.</i>—Seldom bought. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to July. <i>Sufficient.</i>—3 for -each person.</p> - - -<h3>GUINEA-FOWL, Roast, Larded.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A guinea-fowl, lardoons, -flour, and salt. <i>Mode.</i>—When this bird -is larded, it should be trussed the same -as a pheasant; if plainly roasted, truss -it like a turkey. After larding and trussing -it, put it down to roast at a brisk -fire; keep it well basted, and a short -time before serving, dredge it with a -little flour, and let it froth nicely. Serve -with a little gravy in the dish, and a -tureen of the same, and one of well-made -bread-sauce. <i>Time.</i>—Guinea-fowl, larded, -1¼ hour; plainly roasted, about 1 -hour. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The breast, if larded, should -be covered with a piece of paper, and removed -about 10 minutes before serving.</p> - - -<h3>GURNET, or GURNARD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> -each gallon of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse -the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; -have ready some boiling water, with salt -in the above proportion; put the fish in, -and simmer very gently for ½ hour. -Parsley and butter, or anchovy sauce, -should be served with it. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. -<i>Average cost.</i>—Seldom bought. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March, but in perfection -in October. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A middling-sized -one for two persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This fish is frequently stuffed -with forcemeat, and baked.</p> - - -<h3>HADDOCK, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A nice forcemeat, butter -to taste, egg and bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale -and clean the fish, without cutting -it open much; put in a nice delicate -forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it -over with egg, sprinkle over bread-crumbs, -and baste frequently with butter. -Garnish with parsley and cut -lemon, and serve with, a nice brown -gravy, plain melted butter, or anchovy -sauce. The egg and bread-crumbs can -be omitted, and pieces of butter placed -over the fish. <i>Time.</i>—Large haddock, ¾ -hour; moderate size, ¼ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to February. <i>Average cost</i>, -from 9<i>d.</i> upwards.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed -over with egg and bread-crumbs, -and fried a nice brown; garnish with -crisped parsley.</p> - - -<h3>HADDOCK, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient water to cover -the fish; ¼ lb. of salt to each gallon of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Scrape the fish, take out -the inside, wash it thoroughly, and lay it -in a kettle, with enough water to cover it, -and salt in the above proportion. Simmer -gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather -more, should the fish be very large. For -small haddocks, fasten the tails in their -mouths, and put them into boiling water. -10 to 15 minutes will cook them. Serve -with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—Large haddock, ½ hour; small, ¼ -hour, or rather less. <i>Average cost</i>, from -9<i>d.</i> upwards. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -February.</p> - - -<h3>HADDOCK, Dried.</h3> - -<p>Dried haddock should be gradually -warmed through, either before or over a -nice clear fire. Rub a little piece of butter -over, just before sending it to table.</p> - - -<h3>HADDOCK, Dried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large thick haddock, 2 -bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of savoury -herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little -butter and pepper; boiling water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the haddock into square pieces, -make a basin hot by means of hot water, -which pour out. Lay in the fish, with -the bay-leaves and herbs; cover with -boiling water; put a plate over to keep -in the steam, and let it remain for 10 -minutes. Take out the slices, put them -in a hot dish, rub over with butter and -pepper, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time, but best in -winter.</p> - - -<h3>HAM OMELET (a delicious Breakfast -Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, ½ -saltspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls -of minced ham. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the ham -very finely, without any fat, and fry it -for 2 minutes in a little butter; then -make the batter for the omelet, stir in -the ham, and proceed as in the case of a -plain omelet. Do not add any salt to -the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently -salt to impart a flavour to the -omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, -answers equally well for this dish; but -they must also be slightly cooked previously -to mixing them with the batter. -Serve very hot and quickly, without -gravy. <i>Time.</i>—From 4 to 6 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, FRIED, AND EGGS (a -Breakfast Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Ham; eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the ham into slices, and take care -that they are of the same thickness in -every part. Cut off the rind, and if the -ham should be particularly hard and -salt, it will be found an improvement to -soak it for about 10 minutes in hot water, -and then dry it in a cloth. Put it into a -cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and -turn the slices 3 or 4 times whilst they -are cooking. When done, place them on -a dish, which should be kept hot in front -of the fire during the time the eggs are -being poached. Poach the eggs, slip -them on to the slices of ham, and serve -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—7 or 8 minutes to broil -the ham. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. -by the whole ham. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> -eggs and a slice of ham to each person. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Ham may also be toasted or -broiled; but, with the latter method, to -insure its being well cooked, the fire -must be beautifully clear, or it will have -a smoky flavour far from agreeable.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, Potted, that will keep Good -for some time.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 4 lbs. of lean ham -allow 1 lb. of fat, 2 teaspoonfuls of -pounded mace, ½ nutmeg grated, rather -more than ½ teaspoonful of cayenne, -clarified lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the ham, -fat and lean together in the above proportion, -and pound it well in a mortar, -seasoning it with cayenne pepper, -pounded mace, and nutmeg; put the -mixture into a deep baking-dish, and -bake for ½ hour; then press it well -into a stone jar, till up the jar with clarified -lard, cover it closely, and paste over -it a piece of thick paper. If well seasoned, -it will keep a long time in winter, -and will be found very convenient for -sandwiches, &c. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, Potted (a nice addition to -the Breakfast or Luncheon table).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 2 lbs. of lean ham -allow ½ lb. of fat, 1 teaspoonful of -pounded mace, ½ teaspoonful of pounded -allspice, ½ nutmeg, pepper to taste, clarified -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut some slices -from the remains of a cold ham, mince -them small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean -allow the above proportion of fat. Pound -the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with -the fat, gradually add the seasonings -and spices, and be very particular that -all the ingredients are well mixed and -the spices well pounded. Press the mixture -into potting-pots, pour over clarified -butter, and keep it in a cool place. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, to Bake.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Ham; a common crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—As a ham for baking should be -well soaked, let it remain in water for -at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim -away any rusty places underneath, and -cover it with a common crust, taking -care that this is of sufficient thickness all -over to keep the gravy in. Place it in a -moderately-heated oven, and bake for -nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust and -skin, and cover with raspings, the same as -for boiled ham, and garnish the knuckle -with a paper frill. This method of -cooking a ham is, by many persons, considered -far superior to boiling it, as it -cuts fuller of gravy and has a finer -flavour, besides keeping a much longer -time good. <i>Time.</i>—A medium-sized -ham, 4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to -1<i>s.</i> per lb. by the whole ham. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, to Boil.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"> -<img src="images/illus-152.jpg" width="281" height="120" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED HAM.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Ham, water, glaze, or -raspings. <i>Mode.</i>—In choosing a ham, -ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by -running a sharp knife into it, close to -the bone; and if, when the knife is withdrawn, -it has an agreeable smell, the -ham is good; if, on the contrary, the -blade has a greasy appearance and offensive -smell, the ham is bad. If it has been -long hung, and is very dry and salt, let -it remain in soak for 24 hours, changing -the water frequently. This length of time -is only necessary in the case of its being -very hard; from 8 to 12 hours would be -sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland -ham. Wash it thoroughly clean, -and trim away from the under-side all -the rusty and smoked parts, which would -spoil the appearance. Put it into a boiling-pot, -with sufficient cold water to cover -it; bring it gradually to boil, and as the -scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it -simmering very gently until tender, and -be careful that it does not stop boiling, -nor boil too quickly. When done, take -it out of the pot, strip off the skin, and -sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, -put a frill of cut paper round the knuckle, -and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the -ham remain in the water until nearly -cold: by this method the juices are kept -in, and it will be found infinitely superior -to one taken out of the water hot; it -should, however, be borne in mind that -the ham must <i>not</i> remain in the saucepan -<i>all</i> night. When the skin is removed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> -sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted -particularly nice, glaze it. Place a paper -frill round the knuckle, and garnish with -parsley or cut vegetable flowers. <i>Time.</i>—A -ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to <i>simmer -gently</i>; 15 lbs., 5 hours; a very large -one, about 6 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, from -8<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. by the whole ham. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, how to Boil to give it an -excellent flavour.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Vinegar and water, 2 -heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3 onions, a -large bunch of savoury herbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare -the ham as in the preceding -recipe, and let it soak for a few hours in -vinegar and water. Put it on in cold -water, and when it boils, add the vegetables -and herbs. Simmer very gently -until tender, take it out, strip off the -skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put -a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle. -<i>Time.</i>—A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. by the -whole ham. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>HAM, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>In cutting a ham, the carver must be -guided according as he desires to practise -economy, or have, at once, fine slices -out of the prime part. Under the first -supposition, he will commence at the -knuckle end, and cut off thin slices -towards the thick part of the ham. To -reach the choicer portion, the knife, which -must be very sharp and thin, should be -carried quite down to the bone, in the -direction of the line 1 to 2. The slices -should be thin and even, and always cut -down to the bone. There are some who -like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at -the top, and then slicing pieces off inside -the hole, gradually enlarging the circle; -but we think this is a plan not to be -recommended. A ham, when hot, is -usually sent to table with a paper ruffle -round the knuckle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 232px;"> -<img src="images/illus-153.jpg" width="232" height="125" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HAM.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>HAMS, for Curing (Mons. Ude’s -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For 2 hams weighing -about 16 or 18 lbs. each, allow 1 lb. of -moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. -of saltpetre, 1 quart of good vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—As soon as the pig is cold enough -to be cut up, take the 2 hams and rub -them well with common salt, and leave -them in a large pan for 3 days. When -the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain -the hams, and throw the brine away. -Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre together in -the above proportion, rub the hams well -with these, and put them into a vessel -large enough to hold them, always keeping -the salt over them. Let them remain -for 3 days, then pour over them a quart -of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine -every day for a month, then drain them -well, and rub them with bran. Have -them smoked over a wood fire, and be -particular that the hams are hung as high -up as possible from the fire; otherwise -the fat will melt, and they will become -dry and hard. <i>Time.</i>—To be pickled 1 -month; to be smoked 1 month. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March.</p> - - -<h3>HAMS, to Cure Sweet, in the Westmoreland -way.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of common salt, 3 -lbs. of coarse sugar, 1 lb. of bay-salt, 3 -quarts of strong beer. <i>Mode.</i>—Before -the hams are put into pickle, rub them -the preceding day well with salt, and -drain the brine well from them. Put the -above ingredients into a saucepan, and -boil for ¼ hour; pour over the hams, and -let them remain a month in the pickle. -Rub and turn them every day, but do not -take them out of the pickling-pan; and -have them smoked for a month. <i>Time.</i>—To -be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 -month. <i>Seasonable</i> from October to -March.</p> - - -<h3>HAMS, to Pickle (Suffolk Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To a ham from 10 to 12 -lbs., allow 1 lb. of coarse sugar, ¾ lb. of -salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, ½ a teacupful of -vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the hams well -with common salt, and leave them for a -day or two to drain; then rub well in -the above proportion of sugar, salt, saltpetre, -and vinegar, and turn them every<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> -other day. Keep them in the pickle 1 -month, drain them, and send them to be -smoked over a wood fire for 3 weeks or a -month. <i>Time.</i>—To remain in the pickle 1 -month; to be smoked 3 weeks or 1 -month. <i>Sufficient.</i>—The above proportion -of pickle is sufficient for 1 ham. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Hams should be pickled -from October to March.</p> - - -<h3>HAMS, to Salt Two, about 12 or 15 -lbs. each.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of treacle, ½ lb. of -saltpetre, 1 lb. of bay-salt, 2 pounds of -common salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Two days before -they are put into pickle, rub the hams -well with salt, to draw away all slime and -blood. Throw what comes from them -away, and then rub them with treacle, -saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in a deep -pan, and let them remain one day; boil -the above proportion of treacle, saltpetre, -bay-salt, and common salt for ¼ hour, and -pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams: -there should be sufficient of it to cover -them. For a day or two rub them well -with it; afterwards they will only require -turning. They ought to remain in this -pickle for 3 weeks or a month, and then -be sent to be smoked, which will take -nearly or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue -pickled in this way is most excellent, -to be eaten either green or smoked. -<i>Time.</i>—To remain in the pickle 3 weeks -or a month; to be smoked about a month. -<i>Seasonable</i> from October to March.</p> - - -<h3>HAMS, to Smoke, at Home.</h3> - -<p>Take an old hogshead, stop up all the -crevices, and fix a place to put a cross-stick -near the bottom, to hang the articles -to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut -a hole near the top, to introduce an iron -pan filled with sawdust and small pieces -of green wood. Having turned the tub -upside down, hang the articles upon the -cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the -opening, and place a piece of red-hot -iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, -and all will be complete. Let a large -ham remain 40 hours, and keep up a good -smoke. Fish may be smoked in the same -manner.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Broiled (a Supper or Luncheon -Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The legs and shoulders -of a roast hare, cayenne and salt to taste, -a little butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the legs and -shoulders from a roast hare, season them -highly with salt and cayenne, and broil -them over a very clear fire for 5 minutes. -Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them -a little cold butter, and send to table very -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to the end of February.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Hashed.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of -pounded mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper -and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of -savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port -wine, thickening of butter and flour, 2 -tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cold hare into neat slices, -and put the head, bones, and trimmings -into a stewpan, with ¾ pint of water; add -the mace, allspice, seasoning, onion, and -herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and -strain the gravy; thicken it with butter -and flour, add the wine and ketchup, and -lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing -that may be left. Let the whole gradually -heat by the side of the fire, and, when it -has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, -and garnish the dish with sippets of -toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to -table with it. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -cold hare, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to the end of February.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Jugged (very good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 hare, 1½ lb. of gravy -beef, ½ lb. of butter, 1 onion, 1 lemon, -6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to -taste; ½ pint of port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin, -paunch, and wash the hare, cut it -into pieces, dredge them with flour, and -fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1½ pint -of gravy, made from the above proportion -of beef, and thickened with a little flour. -Put this into a jar; add the pieces of -fried hare, an onion stuck with six cloves, -a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a -good seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and -salt; cover the jar down tightly, put it -up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling -water, and let it stew until the hare is -quite tender, taking care to keep the -water boiling. When nearly done, pour -in the wine, and add a few forcemeat -balls: these must be fried or baked in the -oven for a few minutes before they are put -to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly. -<i>Time.</i>—3½ to 4 hours. If the hare is very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> -old, allow 4½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to the end of February.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Jugged (a Quicker and -more Economical Way).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 hare, a bunch of sweet -herbs, 2 onions, each stuck with 3 cloves, -6 whole allspice, ½ teaspoonful of black -pepper, a strip of lemon-peel, thickening -of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of -mushroom ketchup, ¼ pint of port wine. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the hare nicely, cut it up -into joints (not too large), and flour and -brown them as in the preceding recipe; -then put them into a stewpan with the -herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, -and lemon-peel; cover with hot water, -and when it boils, carefully remove all -the scum, and let it simmer gently till -tender, which will be in about 1¾ hour, -or longer, should the hare be very old. -Take out the pieces of hare, thicken the -gravy with flour and butter, add the -ketchup and port wine, let it boil for -about 10 minutes, strain it through a -sieve over the hare, and serve. A few -fried forcemeat balls should be added at -the moment of serving, or, instead of -frying them, they may be stewed in the -gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare -is wanted for table. Do not omit to serve -red-currant jelly with it. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to the end of February.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Should there be any left, re-warm -it the next day by putting the -hare, &c., into a covered jar, and placing -this jar in a saucepan of boiling water; -this method prevents a great deal of -waste.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Potted (a Luncheon or -Breakfast Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 hare, a few slices of -bacon, a large bunch of savoury herbs, 4 -cloves, ½ teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 -carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to -taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry. -<i>Mode.</i>—Skin, empty, and wash the hare; -cut it down the middle, and put it into a -stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under -and over it; add the remaining ingredients, -and stew very gently until the hare -is tender, and the flesh will separate -easily from the bones. When done -enough, take it up, remove the bones, -and pound the meat, <i>with the bacon</i>, in a -mortar, until reduced to a perfectly -smooth paste. Should it not be sufficiently -seasoned, add a little cayenne, -salt, and pounded mace, but be careful -that these are well mixed with the other -ingredients. Press the meat into potting-pots, -pour over clarified butter, and -keep in a dry place. The liquor that -the hare was stewed in, should be saved -for hashes, soups, &c. &c. <i>Time.</i>—About -2½ hours to stew the hare. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to the end of February.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Roast.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;"> -<img src="images/illus-155.jpg" width="246" height="105" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST HARE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Hare, forcemeat, a little -milk, butter. <i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Choose -a young hare; which may be -known by its smooth and sharp claws, -and by the cleft in the lip not being -much spread. To be eaten in perfection, -it must hang for some time; and, if -properly taken care of, it may be kept -for several days. It is better to hang -without being paunched; but should it -be previously emptied, wipe the inside -every day, and sprinkle over it a little -pepper and ginger, to prevent the musty -taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, -and also which affects the stuffing. -After it is skinned, wash it well, and -soak for an hour in warm water to -draw out the blood; if old, let it lie in -vinegar for a short time, but wash it -well afterwards in several waters. Make -a forcemeat, wipe the hare dry, fill the -belly with it, and sew it up. Bring the -hind and fore legs close to the body towards -the head, run a skewer through -each, fix the head between the shoulders -by means of another skewer, and -be careful to leave the ears on. Put a -string round the body from skewer to -skewer, and tie it above the back. -<i>Mode.</i>—The hare should be kept at a -distance from the fire when it is first -laid down, or the outside will become -dry and hard before the inside is done. -Baste it well with milk for a short time, -and afterwards with butter; and particular -attention must be paid to the -basting, so as to preserve the meat on -the back juicy and nutritive. When it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> -is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, -and baste well with butter. When nicely -frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, -and send it to table with a little gravy -in the dish, and a tureen of the same. -Red-currant jelly must also not be forgotten, -as this is an indispensable accompaniment -to roast hare. For economy, -good beef dripping may be substituted -for the milk and butter to baste -with; but the basting, as we have before -stated, must be continued without -intermission. If the liver is good, it -may be parboiled, minced, and mixed -with the stuffing; but it should not be -used unless quite fresh. <i>Time.</i>—A middling-sized -hare, 1¼ hour; a large hare, -1½ to 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, from 4<i>s.</i> to -6<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to the end of February.</p> - - -<h3>HARE, Roast, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>The “Grand Carver” of olden times, -a functionary of no ordinary dignity, was -pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, -for his -skill and -grace had an -opportunity -of display. -<i>Diners à la -Russe</i> may -possibly, erewhile, -save modern gentlemen the necessity -of learning the art which was in auld -lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments -of the youthful squire; but, -until side-tables become universal, or till -we see the office of “grand carver” once -more instituted, it will be well for all to -learn how to assist at the carving of this -dish, which, if not the most elegant in -appearance, is a very general favourite. -The hare, having its head to the left, as -shown in the woodcut, should be first -served by cutting slices from each side -of the backbone, in the direction of the -lines from 3 to 4. After these prime -parts are disposed of, the leg should -next be disengaged by cutting round the -line indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The -shoulders will then be taken off by passing -the knife round from 7 to 8. The -back of the hare should now be divided -by cutting quite through its spine, as -shown by the line 1 to 2, taking care to -feel with the point of the knife for a -joint where the back may be readily -penetrated. It is the usual plan not to -serve any bone in helping hare; and -thus the flesh should be sliced from the -legs and placed alone on the plate. In -large establishments, and where men-cooks -are kept, it is often the case that -the backbone of the hare, especially in -old animals, is taken out, and then the -process of carving is, of course, considerably -facilitated. A great point to -be remembered in connection with carving -hare is, that plenty of gravy should -accompany each helping, otherwise this -dish, which is naturally dry, will lose -half its flavour, and so become a failure. -Stuffing is also served with it; and the -ears, which should be nicely crisp, and -the brains of the hare, are esteemed as -delicacies by many connoisseurs.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 229px;"> -<img src="images/illus-156.jpg" width="229" height="97" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST HARE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>HARE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. -of lean gravy-beef, a slice of ham, 1 -carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury -herbs, ¼ oz. of whole black pepper, a -little browned flour, ¼ pint of port wine, -the crumb of two French rolls, salt and -cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Skin and paunch the hare, saving -the liver and as much blood as possible. -Cut it in pieces, and put it in a -stewpan with all the ingredients, and -simmer gently for 6 hours. This soup -should be made the day before it is -wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the -best parts of the hare in the soup, and -serve.</p> - - -<h3>HARE SOUP.</h3> - -<p>Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the -joints of the hare in the soup, -pick the meat from the bones, pound it -in a mortar, and add it, with the crumb -of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub -all through a sieve; heat slowly, but do -not let it boil. Send it to table immediately. -<i>Time.</i>—8 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to February. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>HERB POWDER, for Flavouring -when Fresh Herbs are not obtainable.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of dried lemon-thyme, -1 oz. of dried winter savory, 1 -oz. of dried sweet marjoram and basil, -2 oz. of dried parsley, 1 oz. of dried<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> -lemon-peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare and dry -the herbs, pick the leaves from the -stalks, pound them, and sift them -through a hair sieve; mix in the above -proportions, and keep in glass bottles, -carefully excluding the air. This we -think a far better method of keeping -herbs, as the flavour and fragrance do -not evaporate so much as when they are -merely put in paper bags. Preparing -them in this way, you have them ready -for use at a moment’s notice. Mint, -sage, parsley, &c., dried, pounded, and -each put into separate bottles, will be -found very useful in winter.</p> - - -<h3>HERBS, to Dry, for Winter Use.</h3> - -<p>On a very dry day, gather the herbs, -just before they begin to flower. If this -is done when the weather is damp, the -herbs will not be so good a colour. (It -is very necessary to be particular in little -matters like this, for trifles constitute -perfection, and herbs nicely dried will be -found very acceptable when frost and -snow are on the ground. It is hardly -necessary, however, to state that the flavour -and fragrance of fresh herbs are incomparably -finer.) They should be perfectly -freed from dirt and dust, and be -divided into small bunches, with their -roots cut off. Dry them quickly in a -very hot oven, or before the fire, as by -this means most of their flavour will be -preserved, and be careful not to burn -them; tie them up in paper bags, and -keep in a dry place. This is a very -general way of preserving dried herbs; -but we would recommend the plan described -in a former recipe. <i>Seasonable.</i>—From -the month of July to the end of -September is the proper time for storing -herbs for winter use.</p> - - -<h3>HERRINGS, White, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, -12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2 small blades of -mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, -sufficient vinegar to fill up the dish. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take herrings, cut off the heads, -and gut them. Put them in a pie-dish, -heads and tails alternately, and, between -each layer, sprinkle over the above ingredients. -Cover the fish with the vinegar, -and bake for ½ hour, but do not use -it till quite cold. The herrings may be -cut down the front, the backbone taken -out, and closed again. Sprats done in -this way are very delicious. <i>Time.</i>—½ an -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Choose the Herring.</span>—The more -scales this fish has, the surer the sign -of its freshness. It should also have a -bright and silvery look; but if red about -the head, it is a sign that it has been dead -for some time.</p> - - -<h3>HERRINGS, Red or YARMOUTH -BLOATERS.</h3> - -<p>The best way to cook these is to make -incisions in the skin across the fish, because -they do not then require to be so -long on the fire, and will be far better -than when cut open. The hard roe makes -a nice relish by pounding it in a mortar, -with a little anchovy, and spreading -it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm -water 1 hour before dressing.</p> - - -<h3>HIDDEN MOUNTAIN, The (a -pretty Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, a few slices of -citron, sugar to taste, ¼ pint of cream, a -layer of any kind of jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; -then mix them and beat well -again, adding a few thin slices of citron, -the cream, and sufficient pounded sugar -to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture -is well beaten, put it into a buttered pan, -and fry the same as a pancake; but it -should be three times the thickness of an -ordinary pancake. Cover it with jam, -and garnish with slices of citron and -holly-leaves. This dish is served cold. -<i>Time.</i>—About 10 minutes to fry the mixture. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the jam, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>HODGE-PODGE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 -quarts of water, 1 pint of table-beer, 2 -onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of -celery; pepper and salt to taste; thickening -of butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer -for a few minutes, and skim carefully. -Add the vegetables and seasoning; -stew gently till the meat is tender. -Thicken with the butter and flour, and -serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach -and celery. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours, or rather -more. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time. <i>Sufficient</i> for 12 -persons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>HODGE-PODGE.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—About -1 lb. of underdone cold mutton, -2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, -5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, -pepper and salt to taste, ½ teacupful -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the mutton, -and cut up the lettuces and onions in -slices. Put those in a stewpan, with all -the ingredients except the peas, and let -these simmer very gently for ¾ hour, -keeping them well stirred. Boil the peas -separately, mix these with the mutton, -and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the end of May to August.</p> - - -<h3>HOLLY-LEAVES, to Frost, for -Garnishing and Decorating Dessert -and Supper Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sprigs of holly, oiled -butter, coarsely-powdered sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -some nice sprigs of holly; -pick the leaves from the stalks, and wipe -them with a clean cloth free from all -moisture; then place them on a dish -near the fire, to get thoroughly dry, but -not too near to shrivel the leaves; dip -them into oiled butter, sprinkle over -them some coarsely-powdered sugar, and -dry them before the fire. They should -be kept in a dry place, as the least damp -would spoil their appearance. <i>Time.</i>—About -10 minutes to dry before the fire. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—These may be made at any -time; but are more suitable for winter -garnishes, when fresh flowers are not -easily obtained.</p> - - -<h3>HONEY CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ breakfast-cupful of -sugar, 1 breakfast-cupful of rich sour -cream, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, ½ teaspoonful -of carbonate of soda, honey to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the sugar and cream -together; dredge in the flour, with as -much honey as will flavour the mixture -nicely; stir it well that all the ingredients -may be thoroughly mixed; add the -carbonate of soda, and beat the cake -well for another 5 minutes; put it into a -buttered tin, bake it from ½ to ¾ hour, -and let it be eaten warm. <i>Time.</i>—½ to -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>HORSERADISH.</h3> - -<p>This root, scraped, is always served -with hot roast beef, and is used for garnishing -many kinds of boiled fish. Let -the horseradish remain in cold water for -an hour; wash it well, and with a sharp -knife scrape it into very thin shreds, -commencing from the thick end of the -root. Arrange some of it lightly in a -small glass dish, and the remainder use -for garnishing the joint; it should be -placed in tufts round the border of the -dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> per stick. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to June.</p> - - -<h3>HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve -with Roast Beef.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 tablespoonfuls of grated -horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of pounded -sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ½ teaspoonful -of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of made -mustard; vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Grate the -horseradish, and mix it well with the -sugar, salt, pepper, and mustard; -moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give -it the consistency of cream, and serve in -a tureen; 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of cream -added to the above very much improve -the appearance and flavour of this sauce. -To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, -put it in a <i>bain marie</i> or a jar, which -place in a saucepan of boiling water; -make it hot, but do not allow it to boil, -or it will curdle.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This sauce is a great improvement -on the old-fashioned way of serving -cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast -beef. The mixing of the cold vinegar -with the warm gravy cools and spoils -everything on the plate. Of course, with -cold meat, the sauce should be served cold.</p> - - -<h3>HORSERADISH VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of scraped horseradish, -1 oz. of minced shalot, 1 drachm -of cayenne, 1 quart of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients into a bottle, -which shake well every day for a fortnight. -When it is thoroughly steeped, -strain and bottle, and it will be fit for -use immediately. This will be found an -agreeable relish to cold beef, &c. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -vinegar should be made either -in October or November, as horseradish -is then in its highest perfection.</p> - - -<h3>HOT SPICE (a Delicious Adjunct -to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 drachms each of ginger,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> -black pepper, and cinnamon, 7 -cloves, ½ oz. mace, ¼ oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. -grated nutmeg, 1½ oz. white pepper. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pound the ingredients, and mix -them thoroughly together, taking care -that everything is well blended. Put the -spice in a very dry glass bottle for use. -The quantity of cayenne may be increased, -should the above not be enough -to suit the palate.</p> - - -<h3>ICE-CREAMS, Fruit.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of fruit-juice -allow 1 pint of cream; sugar to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the fruit be well -ripened; pick it off the stalks, and put -it into a large earthen pan. Stir it about -with a wooden spoon, breaking it until it -is well mashed; then, with the back of -the spoon, rub it through a hair sieve. -Sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar; -whip the cream for a few minutes, add it -to the fruit, and whisk the whole again -for another 5 minutes. Put the mixture -into the freezing-pot, and freeze, taking -care to stir the cream, &c., two or three -times, and to remove it from the sides of -the vessel, that the mixture may be equally -frozen and smooth. Ices are usually -served in glasses, but if moulded, as they -sometimes are for dessert, must have a -small quantity of melted isinglass added -to them, to enable them to keep their -shape. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, -and all fruit ice-creams, are made in the -same manner. A little pounded sugar -sprinkled over the fruit before it is -mashed assists to extract the juice. In -winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable, -a little jam may be substituted for it: it -should be melted and worked through a -sieve before being added to the whipped -cream; and if the colour should not be -good, a little prepared, cochineal or beetroot -may be put in to improve its -appearance. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to freeze the -mixture. <i>Average cost</i>, with cream at -1<i>s.</i> per pint, 4<i>d.</i> each ice. <i>Seasonable</i>, -with fresh fruit, in June, July, and -August.</p> - - -<h3>ICE, Lemon-water.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of syrup, -allow 1/3 pint of lemon-juice; the rind of -4 lemons. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the sugar on the -rinds of the lemons, and with it make the -syrup. Strain the lemon-juice, add it to the -other ingredients, stir well, and put the -mixture into a freezing-pot. Freeze as -directed for Ice Pudding, and when the -mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen, -put it into ice-glasses. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to -freeze the mixture. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> to -4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3><a id="ICED-PUDDING"></a>ICED-PUDDING (Parisian Recipe).</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 349px;"> -<img src="images/illus-159.jpg" width="349" height="308" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ICED-PUDDING MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of sweet almonds, -2 oz. of bitter ones, ¾ lb, of sugar, 8 eggs, -1½ pint of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch and -dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, -then pound them in a mortar until reduced -to a smooth paste; add to these -the well-beaten eggs, the sugar, and -milk; stir these ingredients over the fire -until they thicken, but do not allow them -to boil; then strain and put the mixture -into the freezing-pot; surround it with -ice, and freeze it. When quite frozen, -fill an iced-pudding mould, put on the -lid, and keep the pudding in ice until -required for table; then turn it out on -the dish, and garnish it with a <i>compôte</i> or -any fruit that may be preferred, pouring -a little over the top of the pudding. -This pudding may be flavoured with -vanilla, Curaçoa, or Maraschino. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour to freeze the mixture. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Served -all the year round.</p> - - -<h3>ICES.</h3> - -<p>Ices are composed, it is scarcely necessary -to say, of congealed cream or water, -combined sometimes with liqueurs or -other flavouring ingredients, or more -generally with the juices of fruits. At -desserts, or at some evening parties, ices -are scarcely to be dispensed with. The -principal utensils required for making -ice-creams are ice-tubs, freezing-pots,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> -spaddles, and a cellaret. The tub must -be large enough to contain about a bushel -of ice, pounded small, when brought out -of the ice-house, and mixed very carefully -with either <i>salt</i>, <i>nitre</i>, or <i>soda</i>. -The freezing-pot is best made of pewter. -If it be of tin, as is sometimes the case, -the congelation goes on too rapidly in it -for the thorough intermingling of its contents, -on which the excellence of the ice -greatly depends. The spaddle is generally -made of copper, kept bright and -clean. The cellaret is a tin vessel, in -which ices are kept for a short time from -dissolving. The method to be pursued in -the freezing process must be attended to. -When the ice-tub is prepared with fresh-pounded -ice and salt, the freezing-pot is -put into it up to its cover. The articles -to be congealed are then poured into it -and covered over; but to prevent the -ingredients from separating and the -heaviest of them from falling to the bottom -of the mould, it is requisite to turn -the freezing-pot round and round by the -handle, so as to keep its contents moving -until the congelation commences. As -soon as this is perceived (the cover of the -pot being occasionally taken off for the -purpose of noticing when freezing takes -place), the cover is immediately closed -over it, ice is put upon it, and it is left -in this state till it is served. The use of -the spaddle is to stir up and remove from -the sides of the freezing-pot the cream, -which in the shaking may have washed -against it, and by stirring it in with the -rest, to prevent waste of it occurring. -Any negligence in stirring the contents -of the freezing-pot before congelation -takes place, will destroy the whole: either -the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves -the ice insufficiently sweetened, or lumps -are formed, which disfigure and discolour -it.</p> - - -<h3>ICES, to make Fruit-water.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of fruit-juice -allow 1 pint of syrup. <i>Mode.</i>—Select -nice ripe fruit; pick off the stalks -and put it into a large earthen pan, with -a little pounded sugar strewed over; stir -it about with a wooden spoon until it -is well broken, then rub it through a -hair sieve. Make a syrup, without white -of egg; let it cool add the fruit-juice, -mix well together, and put the mixture -into the freezing-pot. Proceed as directed -for Ice Puddings, and when the -mixture is equally frozen, put it into small -glasses. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, -and other fresh-fruit-water ices, are -made in the same manner. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour to freeze the mixture. <i>Average cost</i>, -3<i>d.</i> to 4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i>, with fresh -fruit, in June, July, and August.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 269px;"> -<img src="images/illus-160.jpg" width="269" height="97" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF ICES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>ICING, Almond, for Cakes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of finely-pounded -loaf sugar, allow 1 lb. of sweet -almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, a little -rosewater. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch the almonds, -and pound them (a few at a time) in a -mortar to a paste, adding a little rosewater -to facilitate the operation. Whisk -the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; -mix them with the pounded almonds, -stir in the sugar, and beat altogether. -When the cake is sufficiently baked, lay -on the almond icing, and put it into the -oven to dry. Before laying this preparation -on the cake, great care must be -taken that it is nice and smooth, which -is easily accomplished by well beating the -mixture.</p> - - -<h3>ICING, Sugar, for Cakes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of loaf -sugar allow the whites of 4 eggs, 1 oz. of -fine starch. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the eggs to a -strong froth, and gradually sift in the -sugar, which should be reduced to the -finest possible powder, and gradually add -the starch, also finely powdered. Beat -the mixture well until the sugar is -smooth; then with a spoon or broad -knife lay the ice equally over the cakes. -These should then be placed in a very -cool oven, and the icing allowed to dry -and harden, but not to colour. The -icing may be coloured with strawberry or -currant juice, or with prepared cochineal. -If it be put on the cakes as soon -as they are withdrawn from the oven, it -will become firm and hard by the time -the cakes are cold. On very rich cakes, -such as wedding, christening cakes, &c., -a layer of almond icing is usually spread -over the top, and over that the white -icing as described. All iced cakes should -be kept in a very dry place.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>INVALID COOKERY.</h3> - -<p class="center"><i>A few Rules to be observed in Cooking -for Invalids.</i></p> - -<p>Let all the kitchen utensils used in the -preparation of invalids’ cookery be delicately -and <i>scrupulously clean</i>; if this is -not the case, a disagreeable flavour may -be imparted to the preparation, which -flavour may disgust, and prevent the patient -from partaking of the refreshment -when brought to him or her.</p> - -<p>For invalids, never make a large quantity -<i>of one thing</i>, as they seldom require -much at a time; and it is desirable that -variety be provided for them.</p> - -<p>Always have something in readiness; -a little beef tea, nicely made and nicely -skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, &c., -&c., that it may be administered as soon -almost as the invalid wishes for it. If -obliged to wait a long time, the patient -loses the desire to eat, and often turns -against the food when brought to him or -her.</p> - -<p>In sending dishes or preparations up -to invalids, let everything look as tempting -as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth -laid smoothly over the tray; let the -spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers, &c., -be very clean and bright. Gruel served -in a tumbler is more appetizing than -when served in a basin or cup and saucer.</p> - -<p>As milk is an important article of food -for the sick, in warm weather let it be -kept on ice, to prevent its turning sour. -Many other delicacies may also be preserved -good in the same manner for some -little time.</p> - -<p>If the patient be allowed to eat vegetables, -never send them up undercooked, -or half raw; and let a small quantity -only be temptingly arranged on a dish. -This rule will apply to every preparation, -as an invalid is much more likely to -enjoy his food if small delicate pieces are -served to him.</p> - -<p>Never leave food about a sick-room; if -the patient cannot eat it when brought -to him, take it away, and bring it to him -in an hour or two’s time. Miss Nightingale -says, “To leave the patient’s untasted -food by his side from meal to -meal, in hopes that he will eat it in the -interval, is simply to prevent him from -taking any food at all.” She says, “I -have known patients literally incapacitated -from taking one article of food after -another by this piece of ignorance. Let -the food come at the right time, and be -taken away, eaten or uneaten, at the -right time, but never let a patient have -‘something always standing’ by him, if -you don’t wish to disgust him of everything.”</p> - -<p>Never serve beef tea or broth with the -<i>smallest particle</i> of fat or grease on the -surface. It is better, after making either -of these, to allow them to get perfectly -cold, when <i>all the fat</i> may be easily removed; -then warm up as much as may -be required. Two or three pieces of clean -whity-brown paper laid on the broth will -absorb any greasy particles that may be -floating at the top, as the grease will -cling to the paper.</p> - -<p>Roast mutton, chickens, rabbits, calves’ -feet or head, game, fish (simply dressed), -and simple puddings, are all light food, -and easily digested. Of course, these -things are only partaken of supposing -the patient is recovering.</p> - -<p>A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed, -and broiled to a turn, is a dish to be recommended -for invalids; but it must not -be served <i>with all the fat</i> at the end, nor -must it be too thickly cut. Let it be -cooked over a fire free from smoke, and -sent up with the gravy in it, between two -very hot plates. Nothing is more disagreeable -to an invalid than <i>smoked</i> food.</p> - -<p>In making toast-and-water, never -blacken the bread, but toast it only a -nice brown. Never leave toast-and-water -to make until the moment it is required, -as it cannot then be properly prepared,—at -least the patient will be obliged to -drink it warm, which is anything but -agreeable.</p> - -<p>In boiling eggs for invalids, let the -white be just set; if boiled hard, they -will be likely to disagree with the patient.</p> - -<p>In Miss Nightingale’s admirable -“Notes on Nursing,” a book that no -mother or nurse should be without, she -says,—“You cannot be too careful as to -quality in sick-diet. A nurse should -never put before a patient milk that is -sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg -that is bad, or vegetables underdone.” -Yet often, she says, she has seen these -things brought in to the sick, in a state -perfectly perceptible to every nose or eye -except the nurse’s. It is here that the -clever nurse appears,—she will not bring -in the peccant article; but, not to disappoint -the patient, she will whip up something -else in a few minutes. Remember, -that sick-cookery should half do the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> -work of your poor patient’s weak digestion.</p> - -<p>She goes on to caution nurses, by -saying,—“Take care not to spill into -your patient’s saucer; in other words, -take care that the outside bottom rim of -his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, -every time he lifts his cup to his lips, he -has to carry the saucer with it, or else to -drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, -or bedgown, or pillow, or, if he is sitting -up, his dress, you have no idea what a -difference this minute want of care on -your part makes to his comfort, and even -to his willingness for food.”</p> - - -<h3>INVALID’S CUTLET.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 nice cutlet from a loin -or neck of mutton; 2 teacupfuls of water; -1 very small stick of celery; pepper and -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the cutlet -cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton, -take off all the fat, put it into a -stewpan with the other ingredients; stew -very gently indeed for nearly 2 hours, -and skim off every particle of fat that -may rise to the surface from time to time. -The celery should be out into thin slices -before it is added to the meat, and care -must be taken not to put in too much of -this, or the dish will not be good. If the -water is allowed to boil fast, the cutlet -will be hard. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours very -gentle stewing. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for one person. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Whenever -celery may be had.</p> - - -<h3>INVALID’S JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 shanks of mutton, 3 -quarts of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, -pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, -1 onion, 1 lb. of lean beef, a crust of -bread toasted brown. <i>Mode.</i>—Soak the -shanks in plenty of water for some hours, -and scrub them well; put them, with the -beef and other ingredients, into a saucepan -with the water, and let them simmer -very gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, -and, when cold, take off all the fat. It -may be eaten either warmed up or cold -as a jelly. <i>Time.</i>—5 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make from 1½ to 2 pints -of jelly. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>INVALIDS, Lemonade for.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lemon, lump sugar to -taste, 1 pint of boiling water. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare -off the rind of the lemon thinly; -cut the lemon into 2 or 3 thick slices, -and remove as much as possible of the -white outside pith, and all the pips. Put -the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump -sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling -water; cover it closely, and in 2 hours it -will be fit to drink. It should either be -strained or poured off from the sediment. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to make 1 pint of lemonade. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>JAM ROLY-POLY PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of suet-crust, ¾ lb. -of any kind of jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a nice -light suet-crust, and roll it out to the thickness -of about ½ inch. Spread the jam -equally over it, leaving a small margin -of paste without any, where the pudding -joins. Roll it up, fasten the ends securely, -and tie it in a floured cloth; put -the pudding into boiling water, and boil -for 2 hours. Mincemeat or marmalade -may be substituted for the jam, and -makes excellent puddings. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable -for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is -not obtainable.</p> - - -<h3>JANUARY—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu5.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Mock-Turtle Soup, -removed by -Cod’s Head and Shoulders. - -Stewed Eels. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Red Mullet. - -Clear Ox-tail Soup, -removed by -Fried Filleted Soles. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu5b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Riz de Veau aux -Tomates. - -Ragoût of -Lobster. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Cotelettes de Porc -à la Robert. - -Poulet à la Marengo. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu5c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Roast Turkey. - -Pigeon Pie. - -Boiled Turkey and -Celery Sauce. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Boiled Ham. - -Tongue, garnished. - -Saddle of Mutton. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu5d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Charlotte -à la Parisienne. - -Pheasants, -removed by -Plum-Pudding. - -Apricot-Jam -Tartlets. - -Jelly. - -Cream. - -Vase of -flowers. - -Cream. - -Jelly. - -Mince -Pies. - -Snipes, -removed by -Pommes à la Condé. - -Maids -of Honour. -</p> - -<p>Dinner for 12 persons.</p> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Carrot soup à la Crécy; -ox-tail soup; turbot and lobster sauce; -fried smelts, with Dutch sauce. <i>Entrées.</i> -Mutton cutlets, with Soubise sauce; -sweetbreads; oyster patties; fillets of -rabbits. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast Turkey; -stewed rump of beef à la jardinière; -boiled ham, garnished with Brussels -sprouts; boiled chickens and celery -sauce. <i>Third course.</i>—Roast hare; teal; -eggs à la neige; vol-au-vent of preserved -fruit; 1 jelly; 1 cream; potatoes à la -maître d’hôtel; grilled mushrooms; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Soup à la Reine; whitings -au gratin; crimped cod and oyster -sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Tendrons de veau; -curried fowl and boiled rice. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, -and chestnut sauce; boiled leg of mutton, -English fashion, with caper sauce -and mashed turnips. <i>Third course.</i>—Woodcocks -or partridges; widgeon; -Charlotte à la vanille; cabinet pudding; -orange jelly; blancmange; artichoke bottoms; -macaroni, with Parmesan cheese; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First course.</i>—Mulligatawny soup; -brill and shrimp sauce; fried whitings. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Fricasseed chicken; pork cutlets, -with tomato sauce. <i>Second course.</i>—Haunch -of mutton; boiled turkey and -celery sauce; boiled tongue, garnished -with Brussels sprouts. <i>Third Course.</i>—Roast -pheasants; meringues à la crême; -compôte of apples; orange jelly, cheesecakes; -soufflé of rice; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinners for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; soles à -la Normandie. <i>Entrées.</i>—Sweetbreads, -with sauce piquante; mutton cutlets, -with mashed potatoes. <i>Second Course.</i>—Haunch -of venison; boiled fowls and -bacon, garnished with Brussels sprouts. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Plum pudding; custards -in glasses; apple tart; fondue à la -Brillat Savarin; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; fried -slices of codfish and anchovy sauce; -John Dory. <i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed rump-steak -à la jardinière; rissoles; oyster -patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Leg of mutton; -curried rabbit and boiled rice. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Partridges; apple fritters; tartlets -of greengage jam; orange jelly; -plum-pudding; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Pea-soup; baked haddock; -soles à la crême. <i>Entrées.</i>—Mutton -cutlets and tomato sauce; fricasseed -rabbit. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast pork and -apple sauce; breast of veal, rolled and -stuffed; vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Jugged -hare; whipped cream; blancmange; -mince pies; cabinet pudding.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Palestine soup; fried -smelts; stewed eels. <i>Entrées.</i>—Ragoût -of lobster; broiled mushrooms; vol-au-vent -of chicken. <i>Second Course.</i>—Sirloin -of beef; boiled fowls and celery sauce; -tongue, garnished with Brussels sprouts. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Wild ducks; Charlotte -aux pommes; cheesecakes; transparent -jelly, inlaid with brandy cherries; blancmange; -Nesselrode pudding.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>JANUARY, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Boiled turbot and oyster -sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg or griskin -of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. -3. Cabinet pudding, and damson tart -made with preserved damsons.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. The remains of turbot -warmed in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. -Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam -tart, which should have been made with -the pieces of paste left from the damson -tart; baked arrowroot pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Boiled neck of mutton, -carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, -and caper sauce: the broth should be -served first, and a little rice or pearl -barley should be boiled in it along with -the meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast rolled ribs of -beef, greens, potatoes, and horseradish -sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, -cheesecakes.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup (the -bones from the ribs of beef should be -boiled down with this soup), cold beef, -mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, -bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Fried whitings or soles. -2. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, minced -beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak pudding or -pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked -custard pudding and stewed apples.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Codfish and oyster sauce, -potatoes. 2. Joint of roast mutton, either -leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and -potatoes, red-currant jelly. 3. Apple -tart and custards, cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. The remains of codfish -picked from the bone, and warmed -through in the oyster sauce; if there is -no sauce left, order a few oysters and -make a little fresh; and do not let the -fish boil, or it will be watery. 2. Curried -rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, -cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire -dumplings with wine sauce.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; -bacon garnished with Brussels -sprouts; minced or hashed mutton. 2. -Baroness pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. The remains of the -fowls cut up into joints and fricasseed; -joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, -if liked, sage-and-onion, served on a -dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. -Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Cold pork and jugged -hare, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. -2. Apple pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Boiled beef, either the -aitchbone or the silver side of the round; -carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and -potatoes: if there is a marrow-bone, -serve the marrow on toast at the same -time. 2. Rice snowballs.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Pea-soup made from -liquor in which beef was boiled; cold -beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter -fruit pudding.</p> - - -<h3>JANUARY, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, -crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, -herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, -oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, -shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, -sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, house lamb, mutton, -pork, veal, venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, -pullets, rabbits, turkeys.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Grouse, hares, partridges, -pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Beetroot, brocoli, cabbages, -carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, -cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, -potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, -various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, -oranges, pears, walnuts, crystallized preserves -(foreign), dried fruits, such as -almonds and raisins; French and Spanish -plums; prunes, figs, dates.</p> - - -<h3>JAUNEMANGE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint -of water, ½ pint of white wine, the rind -and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, -the yolks of 6 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a -saucepan, and boil gently until the -former is dissolved; then add the -strained lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient -white sugar to sweeten the whole -nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain -the mixture into a jug, and add the -yolks of the eggs, which should be well -beaten; place the jug in a saucepan of -boiling water; keep stirring the mixture -<i>one way</i> until it thickens, <i>but do not -allow it to boil</i>; then take it off the fire, -and keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour -it into a mould, omitting the sediment -at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> -until quite firm. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to -boil the isinglass and water; about 10 -minutes to stir the mixture in the jug. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the best isinglass, -2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>JELLIES</h3> - -<p>Are not the nourishing food they were -at one time considered to be, and many -eminent physicians are of opinion that -they are less digestible than the flesh, or -muscular part of animals; still, when -acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured -with wine, they are very suitable -for some convalescents. Vegetable jelly -is a distinct principle, existing in fruits, -which possesses the property of gelatinizing -when boiled and cooled; but it is a -principle entirely different from the gelatine -of animal bodies, although the -name of jelly, common to both, sometimes -leads to an erroneous idea on that -subject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, is -glue, whereas vegetable jelly is rather -analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine -very low indeed in the scale of usefulness. -He says, “Gelatine, which by itself is -tasteless, and when eaten, excites nausea, -possesses no nutritive value; that, -even when accompanied by the savoury -constituents of flesh, it is not capable of -supporting the vital process, and when -added to the usual diet as a substitute -for plastic matter, does not increase, but -on the contrary, diminishes the nutritive -value of the food, which it renders insufficient -in quantity and inferior in quality.” -It is this substance which is most -frequently employed in the manufacture -of the jellies supplied by the confectioner; -but those prepared at home from -calves’ feet do possess some nutrition, -and are the only sort that should be -given to invalids. Isinglass is the purest -variety of gelatine, and is prepared from -the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain -fish, chiefly the sturgeon. From -its whiteness it is mostly used for making -blancmange and similar dishes.</p> - - -<h3>JELLIES, Bottled, How to Mould.</h3> - -<p>Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan -of hot water until the jelly is reduced -to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain -whether it is sufficiently flavoured, and -if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly -into moulds which have been soaked in -water; let it set, and turn it out by -placing the mould in hot water for a -minute; then wipe the outside, put a -dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. -The jelly should then slip easily away -from the mould, and be quite firm. It -may be garnished as taste dictates.</p> - - -<h3>JELLY, Isinglass, or Gelatine.</h3> - -<p>(Substitutes for Calf’s Feet.)</p> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, -2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan -with the above proportion of cold water; -bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil -very fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. -Carefully remove the scum as it -rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, -and it will be ready for use. If not required -very clear, it may be merely -strained through a fine sieve, instead of -being run through a bag. Rather more -than ½ oz. of isinglass is about the proper -quantity to use for a quart of strong -calf’s-feet stock, and rather more than -2 oz. for the same quantity of fruit juice. -As isinglass varies so much in quality -and strength, it is difficult to give the -exact proportions. The larger the mould, -the stiffer should be the jelly; and where -there is no ice, more isinglass must be -used than if the mixture were frozen. -This forms a stock for all kinds of jellies, -which may be flavoured in many ways. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Sufficient</i>, with wine, -syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized -moulds. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The above, when boiled, should -be perfectly clear, and may be mixed -warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., -and then run through the bag.</p> - - -<h3>JELLY-BAG, How to make a.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 183px;"> -<img src="images/illus-165.jpg" width="183" height="260" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JELLY-BAG.</div> -</div> - -<p>The very stout flannel called double-mill, -used for ironing-blankets, -is the -best material for a -jelly-bag: those of -home manufacture -are the only ones -to be relied on for -thoroughly clearing -the jelly. Care -should be taken -that the seam of -the bag be stitched -twice, to secure it -against unequal -filtration. The -most convenient mode of using the bag<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> -is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size -of the outside of its mouth; and, to -do this, strings should be sewn round -it at equal distances. The jelly-bag -may, of course, be made any size; but -one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, -and seven or eight across the mouth, will -be sufficient for ordinary use. The form -of a jelly-bag is the fool’s-cap.</p> - - -<h3>JELLY Moulded with fresh Fruit, -or Macedoine de Fruits.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Rather more than 1½ pint -of jelly, a few nice strawberries, or red -or white currants, or raspberries, or any -fresh fruit that may be in season. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -ready the above proportion of -jelly, which must be very clear and -rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an -additional quantity of sugar. Select -ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the -stalks, unless currants are used, when -they are laid in the jelly as they come -from the tree. Begin by putting a little -jelly at the bottom of the mould, which -must harden; then arrange the fruit -round the sides of the mould, recollecting -that <i>it will be reversed when turned -out</i>; then pour in some more jelly to -make the fruit adhere, and, when that -layer is set, put another row of fruit and -jelly until the mould is full. If convenient, -put it in ice until required for -table, then wring a cloth in boiling -water, wrap it round the mould for a -minute, and turn the jelly carefully out. -Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., -are better for being boiled in a little clear -syrup before they are laid in the jelly; -strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, -and currants are put in raw. In -winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, -a very pretty jelly may be -made with preserved fruits or brandy -cherries: these, in a bright and clear -jelly, have a very pretty effect; of -course, unless the jelly be <i>very clear</i>, the -beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It -may be garnished with the same fruit as -is laid in the jelly; for instance, an open -jelly with strawberries might have, piled -in the centre, a few of the same fruit -prettily arranged, or a little whipped -cream might be substituted for the fruit. -<i>Time.</i>—One layer of jelly should remain 2 -hours in a very cool place, before another -layer is added. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i>, with fruit, to fill a quart -mould. <i>Seasonable</i>, with fresh fruit, from -June to October; with dried, at any -time.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 306px;"> -<img src="images/illus-166a.jpg" width="306" height="111" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>JELLY, ORANGE, Moulded with -slices of Orange.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of orange jelly, -4 oranges, ½ pint of clarified syrup, -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil ½ lb. of loaf sugar with ½ -pint of water until there is no scum left -(which must be carefully removed as fast -as it rises), and carefully peel the -oranges; divide them into thin slices, -without breaking the thin skin, and put -these pieces of orange into the syrup, -where let them remain for about 5 minutes; -then take them out, and use the -syrup for the jelly. When the oranges -are well drained, and the jelly is nearly -cold, pour a little of the latter into the -bottom of the mould; then lay in a few -pieces of orange; over these pour a little -jelly, and when this is set, place another -layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner -until the mould is full. Put it in -ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning -it out, wrap a cloth round the mould -for a minute or two, which has been -wrung out in boiling water. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes to simmer the oranges, <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i>, with the slices of -orange, to fill a quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> -from November to May.</p> - - -<h3>JELLY of Two Colours.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/illus-166b.jpg" width="286" height="130" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of calf’s-feet -jelly, a few drops of prepared cochineal. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make 1½ pint of calf’s-feet jelly, -or, if wished more economical, of clarified -syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in -any way that may be preferred. Colour -one-half of the jelly with a few drops of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> -prepared cochineal, and the other half -leave as pale as possible. Have ready -a mould well wetted in every part; pour -in a small quantity of the red jelly, and -let this set; when quite firm, pour on it -the same quantity of the pale jelly, and -let this set; then proceed in this manner -until the mould is full, always taking -care to let one jelly set before the other -is poured in, or the colours would run -one into the other. When turned out, -the jelly should have a striped appearance. -For variety, half the mould may -be filled at once with one of the jellies, -and, when firm, filled up with the other: -this, also, has a very pretty effect, and -is more expeditiously prepared than -when the jelly is poured in small quantities -into the mould. Blancmange and -red jelly, or blancmange and raspberry -cream, moulded in the above manner, -look very well. The layers of blancmange -and jelly should be about an inch -in depth, and each layer should be perfectly -hardened before another is added. -Half a mould of blancmange and half a -mould of jelly are frequently served in -the same manner. A few pretty dishes -may be made, in this way, of jellies or -blancmanges left from the preceding -day, by melting them separately in a jug -placed in a saucepan of boiling water, -and then moulding them by the foregoing -directions. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour to make the -jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, with calf’s-feet jelly, -2<i>s.</i>; with gelatine and syrup, more economical. -<i>Sufficient</i> to fill 1½-pint mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In making the jelly, use for -flavouring a very pale sherry, or the colour -will be too dark to contrast nicely -with the red jelly.</p> - - -<h3>JELLY, Open, with whipped -Cream (a very pretty dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of jelly, ½ pint -of cream, 1 glass of sherry, sugar to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the above proportion -of calf’s-feet or isinglass jelly, -colouring and flavouring it in any way -that may be preferred; soak a mould, -open in the centre, for about ½ hour in -cold water; fill it with the jelly, and let -it remain in a cool place until perfectly -set; then turn it out on a dish; fill the -centre with whipped cream, flavoured -with sherry and sweetened with pounded -sugar; pile this cream high in the centre, -and serve. The jelly should be -made of rather a dark colour, to contrast -nicely with the cream. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill -1½-pint mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;"> -<img src="images/illus-167.jpg" width="336" height="201" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>JELLY, Savoury, for Meat Pies.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 -calf’s-foot, 3 lbs. of knuckle of veal, poultry -trimmings (if for game pies, any -game trimmings), 2 onions stuck with -cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of -savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, -2 blades of mace and a little spice; 2 -slices of lean ham; rather more than 2 -quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the -meat and put it into a stewpan with all -the ingredients except the water; set it -over a slow fire to draw down, and, when -the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, -pour in the water. Let it boil up, then -carefully take away all scum from the -top. Cover the stewpan closely, and let -the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: -if rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be -clear. When done, strain it through a -fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, -the jelly should be quite transparent. If -this is not the case, clarify it with the -whites of eggs. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, for this quantity, 5<i>s.</i></p> - - -<h3>JELLY, to make the Stock for, and -to Clarify it.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 calf’s feet, 6 pints of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—The stock for jellies -should always be made the day before it -is required for use, as the liquor has time -to cool, and the fat can be so much more -easily and effectually removed when -thoroughly set. Procure 2 nice calf’s -feet; scald them, to take off the hair; -slit them in two, remove the fat from -between the claws, and wash the feet -well in warm water; put them into a -stewpan, with the above proportion of -cold water, bring it gradually to boil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> -and remove every particle of scum as it -rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it -very gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the -liquor is reduced rather more than half; -then strain it through a sieve into a -basin, and put it in a cool place to set. -As the liquor is strained, measure it, to -ascertain the proportion for the jelly, -allowing something for the sediment and -fat at the top. To clarify it, carefully -remove all the fat from the top, pour -over a little warm water, to wash away -any that may remain, and wipe the jelly -with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from -the sediment, put it into a saucepan, -and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, -add to it 6 oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and -well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and stir -these ingredients together cold; set the -saucepan on the fire, but <i>do not stir the -jelly after it begins to warm.</i> Let it boil -about 10 minutes after it rises to a head, -then throw in a teacupful of cold water; -let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take -the saucepan off, cover it closely, and let -it remain ½ hour near the fire. Dip the -jelly-bag into hot water, wring it out -quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or -the back of a chair, which must be placed -near the fire, to prevent the jelly from -setting before it has run through the bag. -Place a basin underneath to receive the -jelly; then pour it into the bag, and -should it not be clear the first time, run -it through the bag again. This stock is -the foundation of all <i>really good</i> jellies, -which may be varied in innumerable -ways, by colouring and flavouring with -liqueurs, and by moulding it with fresh -and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly -being firm when turned out, ½ oz. of isinglass -clarified might be added to the -above proportion of stock. Substitutes -for calf’s feet are now frequently used in -making jellies, which lessen the expense -and trouble in preparing this favourite -dish, isinglass and gelatine being two of -the principal materials employed; but -although they may <i>look</i> as nicely as jellies -made from good stock, they are never so -delicate, having very often an unpleasant -flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly -when made with gelatine. <i>Time.</i>—About -6 hours to boil the feet for the -stock; to clarify it,—¼ hour to boil, ½ -hour to stand in the saucepan covered. -<i>Average cost.</i>—Calf’s feet may be purchased -for 6<i>d.</i> each when veal is in full -season, but more expensive when it is -scarce. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 calf’s feet should -make 1 quart of stock. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October, but may be had all -the year.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 267px;"> -<img src="images/illus-168.jpg" width="267" height="214" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">JELLY-MOULD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>JOHN DORY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—-¼ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—This fish, which -is esteemed by most people a great delicacy, -is dressed in the same way as a -turbot, which it resembles in firmness, -but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly -and cut off the fins; lay it in a fish-kettle, -cover with cold water, and add -salt in the above proportion. Bring it -gradually to a boil, and simmer gently -for ¼ hour, or rather longer, should the -fish be very large. Serve on a hot napkin, -and garnish with cut lemon and -parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or shrimp -sauce, and plain melted butter, should -be sent to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—After -the water boils, ¼ to ½ hour, according -to size. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> to 5<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but best from September -to January.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Small John Dory are very good -baked.</p> - - -<h3>JUNE—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu6.jpg" width="284" height="233" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Asparagus Soup, -removed by -Crimped Salmon. - -Fillets of Gurnets. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Soles aux fines herbes. - -Vermicelli Soup, -removed by -Whitebait. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu6b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Lamb Cutlets and -Peas. - -Lobster Patties. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Tendrons de Veau -à la Jardinière. - -Larded Sweetbreads. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu6c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Saddle of Lamb. - -Tongue. - -Roast Spring -Chickens. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Boiled Capon. - -Ham. - -Boiled Calf’s Head. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu6d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> -<p class="courses"> -Prawns. - -Leveret, -removed by -Iced Pudding. - -Tartlets. - -Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries -and Cream. - -Wine Jelly. - -Custards, -in glasses. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Cheesecake. - -Plovers’ Eggs. - -Blancmange. - -Goslings, -removed by -Fondues, in cases. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Green-pea soup; rice -soup; salmon and lobster sauce; trout -à la Genévése; whitebait. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lamb -cutlets and cucumbers; fricasseed -chicken; stewed veal and peas; lobster -rissoles. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast quarter -of lamb and spinach; filet de bœuf à la -Jardinière; boiled fowls; braised shoulder -of lamb; tongue; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Goslings; ducklings; Nesselrode -pudding; Charlotte à la Parisienne; -gooseberry tartlets; strawberry cream; -raspberry-and-currant tart; custards; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; salmon -trout and parsley-and-butter; red mullet. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed breast of veal and -peas; mutton cutlets à la Maintenon. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast fillet of veal; -boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young -carrots; boiled bacon-cheek; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast ducks; leveret; -gooseberry tart; strawberry cream; -strawberry tartlets; meringues; cabinet -pudding; iced pudding; dessert and -ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; trout -à la Genévése; salmon cutlets. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lamb -cutlets and peas; fricasseed -chicken. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast ribs of -beef; half calf’s head, tongue, and -brains; boiled ham; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Roast ducks; compôte of gooseberries; -strawberry jelly; pastry; iced -pudding; cauliflower with cream sauce; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Spring soup; boiled -salmon and lobster sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Veal -cutlets and endive; ragoût of duck -and green peas. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -loin of veal; boiled leg of lamb and -white sauce; tongue, garnished; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Strawberry -cream; gooseberry tartlets; almond -pudding; lobster salad; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Calf’s head soup; mackerel -à la maître d’hôtel; whitebait. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Chicken cutlets; curried lobster. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Fore-quarter of -lamb and salad; stewed beef à la Jardinière; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Goslings; -green-currant tart; custards, -in glasses; strawberry blancmange; -soufflé of rice; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Green-pea soup; baked -soles aux fines herbes; stewed trout. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Calf’s liver and bacon; rissoles. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast saddle of lamb -and salad; calf’s head à la tortue; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast ducks; -vol-au-vent of strawberries and cream;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> -strawberry tartlets; lemon blancmange; -baked gooseberry pudding; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Spinach soup; soles à -la crême; red mullet. <i>Entrées.</i>—Roast -fillet of veal; braised ham and spinach. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Boiled fowls and white -sauce; vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Leveret; -strawberry jelly; Swiss cream; -cheesecakes; iced pudding; dessert.</p> - - -<h3>JUNE, Plain Family Dinners for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, -new potatoes. 2. Roast -fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and -spinach, vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart, -custard.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Light gravy soup. 2. -Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished -with rolled bacon, spinach, and potatoes. -3. Raspberry-and-currant tart.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. -2. Boiled leg of lamb, garnished -with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup. 2. -Calf’s liver and bacon, peas, hashed -lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. -Baked gooseberry pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Roast ribs of beef, -Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. -Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb -cutlets and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry -pudding and baked custard pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak pudding, -broiled beef-bones and cucumber, vegetables. -2. Bread pudding.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Roast fore-quarter of -lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new potatoes. -2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. -Fondue.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Cold lamb and salad, -stewed neck of veal and peas, young -carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Green-pea soup. 2. -Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and -new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast leg of mutton, -summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry -and rice pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted butter, -potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, hashed -mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled -beef, young carrots, and new potatoes, -suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Cold boiled beef and -salad, lamb cutlets, and green peas. 2. -Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain -cream.</p> - - -<h3>JUNE, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, -mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns, -salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck -venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, -green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, -rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Artichokes, asparagus, -beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, -lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, -radishes, small salads, sea-kale, spinach,—various -herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apricots, cherries, currants, -gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, -pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, -strawberries.</p> - - -<h3>JULY—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu7.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Green-Pea Soup, -removed by -Salmon and dressed -Cucumber. - -Whitebait. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Stewed Trout. - -Soup à la Reine, -removed by -Mackerel à la Maître -d’Hôtel. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu7b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Lamb Cutlets and -Peas. - -Lobster Curry -en Casserole. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Scollops of -Chickens. - -Chicken Patties. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu7c.jpg" width="284" height="233" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Haunch of Venison. - -Pigeon Pie. - -Boiled Capons. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Spring Chickens. - -Braised Ham. - -Saddle of Lamb. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu7d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Roast Ducks, -removed by -Vanilla Soufflé. - -Prawns. - -Raspberry Cream. - -Custards. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Cherry Tart. - -Raspberry-and-Currant -Tart. - -Strawberry Cream. - -Creams. - -Green Goose, -removed by -Iced Pudding. - -Tartlets. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Soup à la Jardinière; -chicken soup; crimped salmon and parsley-and-butter; -trout aux fines herbes, -in cases. <i>Entrées.</i>—Tendrons de veau -and peas; lamb cutlets and cucumbers. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Loin of veal à la Béchamel; -roast fore-quarter of lamb; -salad; braised ham, garnished with -broad beans; vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Roast -ducks; turkey poult; stewed peas -à la Française; lobster salad; cherry -tart; raspberry-and-currant tart; custards, -in glasses; lemon creams; Nesselrode -pudding; marrow pudding. Dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Green-pea soup; salmon -and lobster sauce; crimped perch and -Dutch sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed veal and -peas; lamb cutlets and cucumbers. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Haunch of venison; -boiled fowls à la Béchamel; braised -ham; vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Roast -ducks; peas à la Française; lobster -salad; strawberry cream; blancmange; -cherry tart; cheesecakes; iced pudding. -Dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Soup à la Jardinière; -salmon trout and parsley-and-butter; -fillets of mackerel à la maître d’hôtel. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Lobster cutlets; beef palates, -à la Italienne. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -lamb; boiled capon and white sauce; -boiled tongue, garnished with small vegetable -marrows; bacon and beans. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Goslings; whipped strawberry -cream; raspberry-and-currant tart; meringues; -cherry tartlets; iced pudding. -Dessert and ices.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; crimped -salmon and caper sauce; whitebait. <i>Entrées.</i>—Croquettes -à la Reine; curried lobster. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast lamb; rump -of beef à la Jardinière. <i>Third Course.</i>—Larded -turkey poult; raspberry cream; -cherry tart; custards, in glasses; Gâteaux -à la Genévése; Nesselrode pudding. -Dessert.</p> - - -<h3>JULY, Plain Family Dinners for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. -2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled -bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant -tart, baked custard -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Green-pea soup. 2. -Roast fowls garnished with water-cresses; -gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. -3. Cherry tart.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. John dory and lobster -sauce. 2. Curried fowl with remains of -cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with -remains of cold fillet. 3. Strawberry -cream.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast leg of mutton, -vegetable marrow and potatoes, melted -butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Fried soles, anchovy -sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and tomato -sauce, hashed mutton, peas, potatoes, -3. Lemon dumplings.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Boiled brisket of beef, -carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, peas, -potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Cold beef and salad, -lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled jam -pudding.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast -lamb, half calf’s head, tongue and brains, -boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry -tart, custards.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Hashed calf’s head, cold -lamb and salad. 2. Vegetable marrow -and white sauce, instead of pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Stewed veal, with peas, -young carrots, and potatoes. Small -meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast ducks stuffed, -gravy, peas, and potatoes; the remains -of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni -served as a sweet pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Slices of salmon and -caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal, -parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and -potatoes. 3. Black-currant pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, -onion sauce, peas and potatoes. 2. -Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Minced mutton, rump-steak-and-kidney -pudding. 2. Baked -lemon pudding.</p> - - -<h3>JULY, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, -haddocks, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, -mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, -shrimps, soles, sturgeon, tench, thornback.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck -venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, -green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, -rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild -ducks (called flappers).</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Artichokes, asparagus, -beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, -celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, -onions, peas, radishes, small -salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable -marrow,—various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apricots, cherries, currants, -figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, -pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, -strawberries, walnuts in high season, -for pickling.</p> - - -<h3>JULIENNE, Soup à la.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 183px;"> -<img src="images/illus-172.jpg" width="183" height="261" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">STRIPS OF VEGETABLE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of carrots, ½ pint -of turnips, ¼ pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, -½ head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel -and chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, -2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the vegetables -into strips of about 1¼ inch long, -and be particular they are all the same -size, or some will be hard whilst the -others will be done to a pulp. Cut the -lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger -pieces; fry the carrots -in the butter, -and pour the stock -boiling to them. -When this is done, -add all the other -vegetables and -herbs, and stew -gently for at least -an hour. Skim off -all the fat, pour the -soup over thin slices -of bread, cut round -about the size of a -shilling, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. -<i>Average cost.</i>—1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, -French beans, &c., can be -added. When the vegetables are very -strong, instead of frying them in butter -at first, they should be blanched, and -afterwards simmered in the stock.</p> - - -<h3>KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Half an ox-head or cow-heel, -a teacupful of toasted oatmeal, salt -to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a broth of the -ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil -floats on the top of the liquor, then boil -the greens, shred, in it. Put the oatmeal, -with a little salt, into a basin, and -mix with it quickly a teacupful of the -fat broth: it should not run into one -doughy mass, but form knots. Stir it -into the whole, give one boil, and serve -very hot. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -8<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but more suitable in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 10 persons.</p> - - -<h3>KEGEREE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any cold fish, 1 teacupful -of boiled rice, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful -of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, -salt and cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick -the fish carefully from the bones, mix -with the other ingredients, and serve -very hot. The quantities may be varied -according to the amount of fish used. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour after the rice is boiled. -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> exclusive of the fish.</p> - - -<h3>KIDNEYS, Broiled (a Breakfast or -Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sheep kidneys, pepper -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Ascertain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> -that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them -open, very evenly, lengthwise, down to -the root, for should one half be thicker -than the other, one would be underdone -whilst the other would be dried, but do -not separate them; skin them, and pass -a skewer under the white part of each -half to keep them flat, and broil over a -nice clear fire, placing the inside downwards; -turn them when done enough on -one side, and cook them on the other. -Remove the skewers, place the kidneys -on a very hot dish, season with pepper -and salt, and put a tiny piece of butter -in the middle of each; serve very hot -and quickly, and send very hot plates to -table. <i>Time.</i>—6 to 8 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 for -each person. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 216px;"> -<img src="images/illus-173a.jpg" width="216" height="69" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">KIDNEYS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A prettier dish than the above -may be made by serving the kidneys each -on a piece of buttered toast cut in any -fanciful shape. In this case a little -lemon-juice will be found an improvement.</p> - - -<h3>KIDNEYS, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Kidneys, butter, pepper, -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the kidneys -open without quite dividing them, remove -the skin, and put a small piece of -butter in the frying-pan. When the -butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the -flat side downwards, and fry them for 7 -or 8 minutes, turning them when they -are half done. Serve on a piece of dry -toast, season with pepper and salt, and -put a small piece of butter in each -kidney; pour the gravy from the pan -over them, and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—7 -or 8 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 kidney to each person. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>KIDNEY OMELET (a favourite -French Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of -salt, ½ saltspoonful of pepper, 2 sheep’s -kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced -veal kidney, 5 oz. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin -the kidneys, cut them into small -dice, and toss them in a frying-pan, in -1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 -minutes. Mix the ingredients for the -omelet, and when the eggs are well -whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. -Make the butter hot in the frying-pan, -and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, -and fry it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 -minutes. When the eggs are set, fold -the edges over, so that the omelet assumes -an oval form, and be careful that -it is not too much done: to brown the -top, hold the pan before the fire for a -minute or two, or use a salamander until -the desired colour is obtained, but never -turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully -on to a <i>very hot</i> dish, or, what is a -much safer method, put a dish on the -omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. -It should be served the instant it comes -from the fire. <i>Time.</i>—4 to 6 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"> -<img src="images/illus-173b.jpg" width="237" height="98" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OMELET PAN.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>KIDNEYS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 8 kidneys, a large -dessertspoonful of chopped herbs, 2 oz. -butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little -gravy, juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful -of Harvey sauce and mushroom -ketchup, cayenne, and salt to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Strew the herbs, with -cayenne and salt, over the kidneys, melt -the butter in the frying-pan, put in the -kidneys, and brown them nicely all -round; when nearly done, stir in the -flour, and shake them well; now add -the gravy and sauce, and stew them for -a few minutes, then turn them out into -a dish garnished with fried sippets. -<i>Time.</i>—10 or 12 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 187px;"> -<img src="images/illus-174.jpg" width="187" height="533" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">SIDE OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - -<p>The most delicious sorts of lamb are -those of the South-Down breed, known -by their black feet; and of these, those -which have been exclusively suckled on -the milk of the parent ewe, are considered -the finest. Next to these in estimation -are those fed on the milk of -several dams; and last of all, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> -the fattest, the grass-fed lamb: this, -however, implies an age much greater -than either of the others.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lamb</span>, in the early part of the season, -however reared, is -in London, and -indeed generally, -sold in quarters, -divided with eleven -ribs to the fore-quarter; -but, as -the season advances, -these are -subdivided into -two, and the hind-quarter -in the same -manner; the first -consisting of the -shoulder, and the -neck and breast; -the latter, of the -leg and the loin.—As -lamb, from the -juicy nature of its -flesh, is especially -liable to spoil in -unfavourable weather, -it should be -frequently wiped, -so as to remove -any moisture that -may form on it.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">In the Purchasing -of Lamb -for the Table</span>, there are certain signs by -which the experienced judgment is able -to form an accurate opinion whether the -animal has been lately slaughtered, and -whether the joints possess that condition -of fibre indicative of good and wholesome -meat. The first of these doubts -may be solved satisfactorily by the bright -and dilated appearance of the eye; the -quality of the fore-quarter can always be -guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness -of the jugular, or vein of the neck; -while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the -firm, compact feel of the kidney, will -answer in an equally positive manner for -the integrity of the hind-quarter.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mode of cutting up a Side of -Lamb in London.</span>—1. Ribs; 2. Breast; -3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1, 2, 3. -Fore Quarter.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Breast of, and Green Peas.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 breast of lamb, a few -slices of bacon, ½ pint of stock, 1 lemon, -1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green-peas. -<i>Mode.</i>—Remove the skin from a -breast of lamb, put it into a saucepan of -boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 -minutes. Take it out and lay it in cold -water. Line the bottom of a stewpan -with a few thin slices of bacon; lay the -lamb on these; peel the lemon, cut it -into slices, and put these on the meat, -to keep it white and make it tender; -cover with 1 or 2 more slices of bacon; -add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set -it on a slow fire to simmer very gently -until tender. Have ready some green -peas, put these on a dish, and place the -lamb on the top of them. The appearance -of this dish may be much improved -by glazing the lamb, and spinach may be -substituted for the peas when variety is -desired. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Grass lamb, from Easter to -Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Stewed Breast of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 breast of lamb, pepper -and salt to taste, sufficient stock to cover -it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of butter -and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin the lamb, cut it -into pieces, and season them with pepper -and salt; lay these in a stewpan, pour in -sufficient stock or gravy to cover them, -and stew very gently until tender, which -will be in about 1½ hour. Just before -serving, thicken the sauce with a little -butter and flour; add the sherry, give -one boil, and pour it over the meat. -Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may -be strewed over the meat, and will be -found a very great improvement. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Grass -lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lamb, to Carve.</span>—Leg, loin, saddle, -shoulder, are carved as mutton.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Fore-quarter of, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>We always think that a good and practised -carver delights in the manipulation -of this joint, for there is a little field for -his judgment and dexterity which does -not always occur. The separation of the -shoulder from the breast is the first point -to be attended to; this is done by passing -the knife round the dotted line, as shown -by the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to -cut through the skin, and then, by -raising with a little force the shoulder, -into which the fork should be firmly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> -fixed, it will come away with just a little -more exercise of the knife. In dividing -the shoulder and breast, the carver -should take care not to cut away too -much of the meat from the latter, as -that would rather spoil its appearance -when the shoulder is removed. The -breast and shoulder being separated, -it is usual to lay a small piece of butter, -and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, -and salt between them; and when -this is melted and incorporated with the -meat and gravy, the shoulder may, as -more convenient, be removed into another -dish. The next operation is to separate -the ribs from the brisket, by cutting -through the meat on the line 5 to 6. -The joint is then ready to be served to -the guests; the ribs being carved in the -direction of the lines from 9 to 10, and -the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver -should ask those at the table what parts -they prefer—ribs, brisket, or a piece of -the shoulder.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 280px;"> -<img src="images/illus-175a.jpg" width="280" height="155" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>LAMB CUTLETS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Loin of lamb, pepper and -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Trim off the flap -from a fine loin of lamb, and cut it into -cutlets about ¾ inch in thickness. Have -ready a bright clear fire; lay the cutlets -on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice -pale brown, turning them when required. -Season them with pepper and salt; serve -very hot and quickly, and garnish with -crisped parsley, or place them on mashed -potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas -are the favourite accompaniments to -lamb chops. <i>Time.</i>—About 8 or 10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -2 cutlets to each person. -<i>Seasonable</i> from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Cutlets and Spinach (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 cutlets, egg and bread-crumbs, -salt and pepper to taste, a little -clarified butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cutlets -from a neck of lamb, and shape them by -cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. -Trim off most of the fat and all -the skin, and scrape the top part of the -bones quite clean. Brush the cutlets -over with egg, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, -and season with pepper and salt. -Now dip them into clarified butter, -sprinkle over a few more bread-crumbs, -and fry them over a sharp fire, turning -them when required. Lay them before -the fire to drain, and arrange them on a -dish with spinach in the centre, which -should be previously well boiled, drained, -chopped, and seasoned. <i>Time.</i>—About -7 or 8 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per -lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Peas, asparagus, or French -beans, may be substituted for the -spinach; or lamb cutlets may be served -with stewed cucumbers, Soubise sauce, -&c., &c.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Roast Fore-quarter of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 288px;"> -<img src="images/illus-175b.jpg" width="288" height="140" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Lamb, a little salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—To obtain the flavour of lamb -in perfection, it should not be long kept; -time to cool is all that it requires; and -though the meat may be somewhat -thready, the juices and flavour will be -infinitely superior to that of lamb that -has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up -the fire in good time, that it may be -clear and brisk when the joint is put -down. Place it at a sufficient distance -to prevent the fat from burning, and -baste it constantly till the moment of -serving. Lamb should be very <i>thoroughly</i> -done without being dried up, and not -the slightest appearance of red gravy -should be visible, as in roast mutton: -this rule is applicable to all young white -meats. Serve with a little gravy made -in the dripping-pan, the same as for -other roasts, and send to table with it a -tureen of mint sauce, and a fresh salad. -A cut lemon, a small piece of fresh butter, -and a little cayenne, should also be -placed on the table, so that when the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> -carver separates the shoulder from the -ribs, they may be ready for his use; if, -however, he should not be very expert, -we would recommend that the cook -should divide these joints nicely before -coming to table. <i>Time.</i>—Fore-quarter -of lamb weighing 10 lbs., 1¾ to 2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Grass -lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB’S FRY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of lamb’s fry, 3 pints -of water, egg and bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, salt and -pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the fry -for ¼ hour in the above proportion of -water, take it out and dry it in a cloth; -grate some bread down finely, mix with -it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and -a high seasoning of pepper and salt. -Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk -of an egg, sprinkle over the bread-crumbs, -and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot -on a napkin in a dish, and garnish with -plenty of crisped parsley. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour -to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -2 or 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from Easter -to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Hashed, and Broiled Blade-Bone.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a cold shoulder of -lamb, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. -of butter, about ½ pint of stock or -gravy, 1 tablespoonful of shalot vinegar, -3 or 4 pickled gherkins. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -the blade-bone from the shoulder, -and cut the meat into collops as neatly -as possible. Season the bone with pepper -and salt, pour a little oiled butter over it, -and place it in the oven to warm through. -Put the stock into a stewpan, add the -ketchup and shalot vinegar, and lay in -the pieces of lamb. Let these heat -gradually through, but do not allow them -to boil. Take the blade-bone out of the -oven, and place it on a gridiron over a -sharp fire to brown. Slice the gherkins, -put them into the hash, and dish it with -the blade-bone in the centre. It may be -garnished with croûtons or sippets of -toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Houselamb, from Christmas -to March; grass lamb, from Easter to -Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Boiled Leg of, à la Béchamel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Leg of lamb, Béchamel -sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Do not choose a very -large joint, but one weighing about 5 lbs. -Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, -into which plunge the lamb, and when it -boils up again, draw it to the side of the -fire, and let the water cool a little. -Then stew very gently for about 1¼ hour, -reckoning from the time that the water -begins to simmer. Make some Béchamel, -dish the lamb, pour the sauce over it, -and garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower -or carrots. When liked, melted -butter may be substituted for the Béchamel: -this is a more simple method, but -not nearly so nice. Send to table with it -some of the sauce in a tureen, and boiled -cauliflowers or spinach, with whichever -vegetable the dish is garnished. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ -hour after the water simmers. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -Easter to Michaelmas.</p> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 224px;"> -<img src="images/illus-176.jpg" width="224" height="108" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEG OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - -<h3>LAMB, Roast Leg of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Lamb, a little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Place -the joint at a good distance from -the fire at first, and baste well the whole -time it is cooking. When nearly done, -draw it nearer the fire to acquire a nice -brown colour. Sprinkle a little fine salt -over the meat, empty the dripping-pan -of its contents; pour in a little boiling -water, and strain this over the meat. -Serve with mint sauce and a fresh salad, -and for vegetables send peas, spinach, or -cauliflowers to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—A -leg of lamb weighing 5 lbs., 1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> a pound. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;"> -<img src="images/illus-177a.jpg" width="246" height="84" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LOIN OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>LAMB, Braised Loin of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 loin of lamb, a few -slices of bacon, 1 bunch of green onions, -5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savoury -herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 pint -of stock, salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Bone a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> -loin of lamb, and line the bottom of -a stewpan just capable of holding it, -with a few thin slices of fat bacon; add -the remaining ingredients, cover the -meat with a few more slices of bacon, -pour in the stock, and simmer very <i>gently</i> -for 2 hours; take it up, dry it, strain and -reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which -glaze the meat, and serve it either on -stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -11<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 258px;"> -<img src="images/illus-177b.jpg" width="258" height="108" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SADDLE OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>LAMB, Roast Saddle of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Lamb; a little salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—This joint is now very much in -vogue, and is generally considered a nice -one for a small party. Have ready a -clear brisk fire; put down the joint at a -little distance, to prevent the fat from -scorching, and keep it well basted all -the time it is cooking. Serve with mint -sauce and a fresh salad, and send to table -with it either peas, cauliflowers, or spinach. -<i>Time.</i>—A small saddle, 1½ hour; a -large one, 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to -1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 226px;"> -<img src="images/illus-177c.jpg" width="226" height="100" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">RIBS OF LAMB.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Loin and ribs of lamb are -roasted in the same manner, and served -with the same sauces as the above. A loin -will take about 1¼ hour; ribs, from 1 to -1¼ hour.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Roast Shoulder of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Lamb; a little salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Have ready a clear brisk fire, -and put down the joint at a sufficient -distance from it, that the fat may not -burn. Keep constantly basting until -done, and serve with a little gravy made -in the dripping-pan, and send mint -sauce to table with it. Peas, spinach, or -cauliflowers are the usual vegetables -served with lamb, and also a fresh salad. -<i>Time.</i>—A shoulder of lamb rather more -than 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LAMB, Shoulder of, Stuffed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat, -trimmings of veal or beef, 2 onions, -½ head of celery, 1 faggot of savoury -herbs, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 quart -of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Take the blade-bone -out of a shoulder of lamb, fill up its place -with forcemeat, and sew it up with -coarse thread. Put it into a stewpan -with a few slices of bacon under and over -the lamb, and add the remaining ingredients. -Stew very gently for rather -more than 2 hours. Reduce the gravy, -with which glaze the meat, and serve -with peas, stewed cucumbers, or sorrel -sauce. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from Easter -to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>LANDRAIL, Roast, or Corn-Crake.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> -<img src="images/illus-177d.jpg" width="275" height="83" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LANDRAILS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 or 4 birds, butter, fried -bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Pluck and draw -the birds, wipe them inside and out with -damp cloths, and truss them in the following -manner: Bring the head round -under the wing, and the thighs close to -the sides; pass a skewer through them -and the body, and keep the legs straight. -Roast them before a clear fire, keep -them well basted, and serve on fried -bread-crumbs, with a tureen of brown -gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may -also be sent to table with them. <i>Time.</i>—12 -to 20 minutes. <i>Average cost.</i>—Seldom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> -bought. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 4 for a dish. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August 12th to the -middle of September.</p> - - -<h3>LANDRAIL, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>Landrail, being trussed like Snipe, with -the exception of its being drawn, may -be carved in the same manner.</p> - - -<h3>LARD, to Melt.</h3> - -<p>Melt the inner fat of the pig, by putting -it in a stone jar, and placing this in -a saucepan of boiling water, previously -stripping off the skin. Let it simmer -gently over a bright fire, and, as it melts, -pour it carefully from the sediment. -Put it into small jars or bladders for use, -and keep it in a cool place. The flead or -inside fat of the pig, before it is melted, -makes exceedingly light crust, and is -particularly wholesome. It may be preserved -a length of time by salting it -well, and occasionally changing the -brine. When wanted for use, wash and -wipe it, and it will answer for making -into paste as well as fresh lard. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>LARDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bacon and larding-needle. -<i>Mode.</i>—Bacon for larding should be -firm and fat, and ought to be cured -without any saltpetre, as this reddens -white meats. Lay it on a table, the -rinds downwards; trim off any rusty -part, and cut it into slices of an equal -thickness. Place the slices one on the -top of another, and cut them evenly into -narrow strips, so arranging it that every -piece of bacon is of the same size. Bacon -for fricandeaux, poultry, and game, -should be about 2 inches in length, and -rather more than one-eighth of an inch -in width. If for larding fillets of beef -or loin of veal, the pieces of bacon must -be thicker. The following recipe of -Soyer is, we think, very explicit; and -any cook, by following the directions -here given, may be able to lard, if not -well, sufficiently for general use:—</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/illus-178.jpg" width="286" height="94" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BACON FOR LARDING, AND -LARDING-NEEDLE.</div> -</div> - -<p>“Have the fricandeau trimmed; lay it, -lengthwise, upon a clean napkin across -your hand, forming a kind of bridge with -your thumb at the part where you are -about to commence; then with the point -of the larding-needle make three distinct -lines across, ½ inch apart; run the -needle into the third line, at the farther -side of the fricandeau, and bring it out -at the first, placing one of the lardoons in -it; draw the needle through, leaving out -¼ inch of the bacon at each line; proceed -thus to the end of the row; then -make another line, ½ inch distant, stick -in another row of lardoons, bringing -them out at the second line, leaving the -ends of the bacon out all the same length; -make the next row again at the same -distance, bringing the ends out between -the lardoons of the first row, proceeding -in this manner until the whole surface -is larded in chequered rows. Everything -else is larded in a similar way; -and, in the case of poultry, hold the -breast over a charcoal fire for one minute, -or dip it into boiling water, in order to -make the flesh firm.”</p> - - -<h3>LARK PIE (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few thin slices of beef, -the same of bacon, 9 larks, flour; for -stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread-crumbs, -½ teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 -teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, -salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of -chopped shalot, ½ pint of weak stock -or water, puff-paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a -stuffing of bread-crumbs, minced lemon-peel, -parsley, and the yolk of an egg, -all of which should be well mixed together; -roll the larks in flour, and stuff -them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish -with a few slices of beef and bacon; -over these place the larks, and season -with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and -chopped shalot, in the above proportion. -Pour in the stock or water, cover with -crust, and bake for an hour in a moderate -oven. During the time the pie is -baking, shake it 2 or 3 times, to assist in -thickening the gravy, and serve very hot. -Time.—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per -dozen. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—In full season in November.</p> - - -<h3>LARKS, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Larks, egg and bread-crumbs, -fresh butter. <i>Mode.</i>—These<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> -birds are by many persons esteemed a -great delicacy, and may be either roasted -or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; -when they are trussed, brush them over -with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with -bread-crumbs, and roast them before a -quick fire; baste them continually with -fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with -the bread-crumbs until the birds are well -covered. Dish them on bread-crumbs -fried in clarified butter, and garnish the -dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks -are also very excellent: they should be -cooked over a clear fire, and would take -about 10 minutes or ¼ hour. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—In full season in November.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Larks may also be plainly -roasted, without covering them with egg -and bread-crumbs; they should be dished -on fried crumbs.</p> - - -<h3>LEEK SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A sheep’s head, 3 quarts -of water, 12 leeks cut small, pepper and -salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken. <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare -the head, either by skinning or -cleaning the skin very nicely; split it in -two; take out the brains, and put it into -boiling water; add the leeks and seasoning, -and simmer very gently for 4 hours. -Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much -oatmeal as will make the soup tolerably -thick; pour it into the soup; continue -stirring till the whole is blended and well -done, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—4½ hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in -winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 persons.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON BISCUITS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1¼ lb. of flour, ¾ lb. of -loaf sugar, 6 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, -1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls -of lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the flour -into the butter; stir in the pounded -sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel, -and when these ingredients are thoroughly -mixed, add the eggs, which -should be previously well whisked, and -the lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well -for a minute or two, then drop it from a -spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches -apart, as the cakes will spread when they -get warm; place the tin in the oven, and -bake the cakes of a pale brown from 15 -to 20 minutes. <i>Time.</i>—15 to 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON BLANCMANGE.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 199px;"> -<img src="images/illus-179a.jpg" width="199" height="211" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BLANCMANGE MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of milk, the yolks -of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of ground rice, 6 oz. of -pounded sugar, 1½ oz. of fresh butter, the -rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 2, ½ oz. of -gelatine. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a custard with -the yolks of the -eggs and ½ pint -of the milk, and -when done, put -it into a basin; -put half the remainder -of the -milk into a -saucepan with -the ground rice, -fresh butter, -lemon-rind, and -3 oz. of the sugar, -and let these ingredients boil until the -mixture is stiff, stirring them continually; -when done, pour it into the -bowl where the custard is, mixing both -well together. Put the gelatine with the -rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let -it stand by the side of the fire to dissolve; -boil for a minute or two, stir carefully -into the basin, adding 3 oz. more of -pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the -lemon-juice, which should be carefully -strained, and pour the mixture into a -well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, -and set the mould in a pan of cold -water until wanted for table. Use eggs -that have rich-looking yolks; and, should -the weather be very warm, rather a larger -proportion of gelatine must be allowed. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill 2 small -moulds. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON CAKE.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 138px;"> -<img src="images/illus-179b.jpg" width="138" height="109" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CAKE-MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls -of orange-flower water, ¾ lb. of pounded -loaf sugar, 1 lemon, ¾ lb. of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate -the whites from the yolks of -the eggs; whisk the former to a stiff -froth; add the orange-flower water, the -sugar, grated lemon-rind, -and mix these -ingredients well together. -Then beat the -yolks of the eggs, and -add them, with the -lemon-juice, to the -whites, &c.; dredge in -the flour gradually; keep beating the -mixture well; put it into a buttered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> -mould, and bake the cake about an hour, -or rather longer. The addition of a -little butter, beaten to a cream, we -think, would improve this cake. <i>Time.</i>—About -1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON CHEESECAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, 1 lb. of -loaf sugar, 6 eggs, the rind of 2 lemons -and the juice of 3. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all the -ingredients into a stewpan, carefully -grating the lemon-rind and straining the -juice. Keep stirring the mixture over -the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and -it begins to thicken: when of the consistency -of honey, it is done; then put it -into small jars, and keep in a dry place. -This mixture will remain good 3 or 4 -months. When made into cheesecakes, -add a few pounded almonds, or candied -peel, or grated sweet biscuit; line some -patty-pans with good puff-paste, rather -more than half fill them with the mixture, -and bake for about ¼ hour in a good brisk -oven. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 24 cheesecakes. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of cream, the yolks -of two eggs, ¼ lb. of white sugar, 1 large -lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the cream into a <i>lined</i> saucepan with the -sugar, lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer -these over a gentle fire for about 10 -minutes, stirring them all the time. -Strain the cream into a jug, add the -yolks of eggs, which should be well -beaten, and put the jug into a saucepan -of boiling water; stir the mixture one -way until it thickens, <i>but do not allow it -to boil</i>; take it off the fire, and keep -stirring it until nearly cold. Strain the -lemon-juice into a basin, gradually pour -on it the cream, and <i>stir it well</i> until the -juice is well mixed with it. Have ready -a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into -it, and let it remain until perfectly set. -When required for table, loosen the -edges with a small blunt knife, put a -dish on the top of the mould, turn it over -quickly, and the cream should easily slip -away. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil the -cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over -the fire in the jug. <i>Average cost</i>, with -cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, and the best isinglass, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill 1½ pint -mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 288px;"> -<img src="images/illus-180.jpg" width="288" height="219" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEMON-CREAM MOULD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>LEMON CREAM, Economical.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of milk, 8 bitter -almonds, 2 oz. of gelatine, 2 large lemons, -¾ lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a lined saucepan -with the almonds, which should be -well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, -lemon-rind, and lump sugar, and boil -these ingredients for about 5 minutes. -Beat up the yolks of the eggs, strain the -milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour -the mixture backwards and forwards a -few times, until nearly cold; then stir -briskly to it the lemon-juice, which -should be strained, and keep stirring -until the cream is almost cold; put it -into an oiled mould, and let it remain -until perfectly set. The lemon-juice -must not be added to the cream when it -is warm, and should be well stirred after -it is put in. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to boil -the milk. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to fill two 1½ pint moulds. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON CREAMS, Very Good.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of cream, 2 dozen -sweet almonds, 3 glasses of sherry, the -rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Blanch and chop the almonds, -and put them into a jug with the cream; -in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, -strained juice, and sufficient pounded -sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour -rapidly from one jug to the other till the -mixture is well frothed; then pour it into -jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. -This is a very cool and delicious sweet for -summer, and may be made less rich by -omitting the almonds and substituting -orange or raisin wine for the sherry. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> -to fill 12 glasses. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON CREAMS, or Custards.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints -of boiling water, the rind of 1 lemon and -the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -a quart of lemonade in the following -manner:—Dissolve the sugar in the -boiling water, having previously, with -part of the sugar, rubbed off the lemon-rind, -and add the strained juice. Strain -the lemonade into a saucepan, and add -the yolks of the eggs, which should be -well beaten; stir this <i>one way</i> over the -fire until the mixture thickens, but do -not allow it to boil, and serve in custard -glasses, or on a glass dish. After the -boiling water is poured on the sugar and -lemon, it should stand covered for about -½ hour before the eggs are added to it, -that the flavour of the rind may be -extracted. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to make the -lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the -custard over the fire. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to fill 12 to 14 custard glasses. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON DUMPLINGS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of grated bread, -¼ lb. of chopped suet, ¼ lb. of moist -sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the bread, suet, and moist sugar -well together, adding the lemon-peel, -which should -be very finely -minced. Moisten -with the -eggs and -strained lemon-juice; -stir well, and -put the mixture -into small buttered cups. Tie them -down and boil for ¾ hour. Turn them -out on a dish, strew sifted sugar over -them, and serve with wine sauce. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 dumplings. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 221px;"> -<img src="images/illus-181.jpg" width="221" height="101" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEMON DUMPLINGS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>LEMON JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 lemons, ¾ lb. of lump -sugar, 1 pint of water, 1¼ oz. of isinglass, -¼ pint of sherry. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel 3 -of the lemons, pour ½ pint of boiling -water on the rind, and let it infuse for ½ -hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and -½ pint of water into a lined saucepan, -and boil these ingredients for 20 minutes; -then put in the strained lemon-juice, the -strained infusion of the rind, and bring -the whole to the point of boiling; skim -well, add the wine, and run the jelly -through a bag; pour it into a mould that -has been wetted or soaked in water; put -it in ice, if convenient, where let it remain -until required for table. Previously to -adding the lemon-juice to the other ingredients, -ascertain that it is very nicely -strained, as, if this is not properly attended -to, it is liable to make the jelly thick and -muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and -almost colourless, it answers very well -for moulding with a jelly of any bright -hue; for instance, half a jelly bright red, -and the other half made of the above, -would have a very good effect. Lemon -jelly may also be made with calf’s-feet -stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to -every pint of stock. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, with the best isinglass, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill 1½ pint -mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON MINCEMEAT.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 large lemons, 6 large -apples, ½ lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, -½ lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, -1 oz. of citron, mixed spice to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pare the lemons, squeeze them, -and boil the peel until tender enough to -mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel -the apples, which should be pared, cored, -and minced; the chopped suet, currants, -sugar, sliced peel, and spice. Strain -the lemon-juice to these ingredients, stir -the mixture well, and put it in a jar with -a closely-fitting lid. Stir occasionally, -and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat -will be ready for use. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 18 large or 24 small pies. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this about the beginning -of December.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON-PEEL.</h3> - -<p>This contains an essential oil of a very -high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently -esteemed both a wholesome and -agreeable stomachic. It is used, as will -be seen by many recipes in this book, as -an ingredient for flavouring a number of -various dishes. Under the name of -candied lemon-peel, it is cleared of the -pulp and preserved in sugar, when it becomes -an excellent sweetmeat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>LEMON PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 -oz. of pounded sugar, 1 lemon, ¼ lb. of -butter, puff-crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the -eggs to a froth; mix with them the sugar -and warmed butter; stir these ingredients -well together, putting in the grated -rind and strained juice of the lemon-peel. -Line a shallow dish with puff-paste; -put in the mixture, and bake in -a moderate oven for 40 minutes; turn -the pudding out of the dish, strew over -it sifted sugar, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—40 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 oz. of bread-crumbs, -2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 1 lemon, -¼ lb. of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Bring the -milk to the boiling point, stir in the -butter, and pour these hot over the -bread-crumbs; add the sugar and very -finely-minced lemon-peel; beat the eggs, -and stir these in with the brandy to the -other ingredients; put a paste round -the dish, and bake for ¾ hour. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON PUDDING, Baked (Very -Rich).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The rind and juice of 2 -large lemons, ½ lb. of loaf sugar, ¼ pint -of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of -almonds, ½ lb. of butter, melted. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the pounded sugar with the cream -and add the yolks of eggs and the butter, -which should be previously warmed. -Blanch and pound the almonds, and put -these, with the grated rind and strained -juice of the lemons, to the other ingredients. -Stir all well together; line a -dish with puff-paste, put in the mixture, -and bake for 1 hour. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of chopped suet, -¾ lb. of bread-crumbs, 2 small lemons, -6 oz. of moist sugar, ¼ lb. of flour, 2 -eggs, milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the suet, bread-crumbs, -sugar, and flour well together, -adding the lemon-peel, which should be -very finely minced, and the juice, which -should be strained. When these ingredients -are well mixed, moisten with the -eggs and sufficient milk to make the -pudding of the consistency of thick batter; -put it into a well-buttered mould, -and boil for 3½ hours; turn it out, strew -sifted sugar over, and serve with wine -sauce, or not, at pleasure. <i>Time.</i>—3½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This pudding may also be -baked, and will be found very good. It -will take about 2 hours.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON PUDDING, Plain.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard -or dripping, the juice of 1 large lemon, -1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -the above proportions of flour and -lard into a smooth paste, and roll it out -to the thickness of about ½ an inch. -Squeeze the lemon-juice, strain it into a -cup, stir the flour into it, and as much -moist sugar as will make it into a stiff -and thick paste; spread this mixture -over the paste, roll it up, secure the -ends, and tie the pudding in a floured -cloth. Boil for 2 hours. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON SAUCE, for Boiled Fowl.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 small lemon, ¾ pint of -melted butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the lemon -into very thin slices, and these again -into very small dice. Have ready ¾ pint -of melted butter, put in the lemon; let -it just simmer, but not boil, and pour it -over the fowls. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to -simmer. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -a pair of large fowls.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON WHITE SAUCE, for -Fowls, Fricassees, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ pint of cream, the rind -and juice of 1 lemon, ½ teaspoonful of -whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon -thyme, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the cream into a -very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), -with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, -and let these infuse for ½ hour, when -simmer gently for a few minutes, or until -there is a nice flavour of lemon. Strain -it, and add a thickening of butter and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> -flour in the above proportions; stir this -well in, and put in the lemon-juice at the -moment of serving; mix the stock with -the cream, and add a little salt. This -sauce should not boil after the cream and -stock are mixed together. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i>, this quantity, for a pair of -large boiled fowls.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Where the expense of the cream -is objected to, milk may be substituted -for it. In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, -or rather more, of flour -must be added.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON SAUCE, for Sweet Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The rind and juice of 1 -lemon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz. of -butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 -wineglassful of water, sugar to taste, the -yolks of 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the rind -of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar; -squeeze out the juice, and strain it; put -the butter and flour into a saucepan, -stir them over the fire, and when of a -pale brown, add the wine, water, and -strained lemon-juice. Crush the lumps -of sugar that were rubbed on the lemon; -stir these into the sauce, which should -be very sweet. When these ingredients -are well mixed, and the sugar is melted, -put in the beaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep -stirring the sauce until it thickens, when -serve. Do not, on any account, allow it -to boil, or it will curdle, and be entirely -spoiled. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 15 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON SPONGE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of isinglass, 1¾ pint -of water, ¾ lb. of pounded sugar, the -juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the -whites of 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Dissolve the -isinglass in the water, strain it into a -saucepan, and add the sugar, lemon-rind, -and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to -15 minutes; strain it again, and let it -stand till it is cold and begins to stiffen. -Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to -it, and whisk the mixture till it is quite -white; put it into a mould which has -been previously wetted, and let it remain -until perfectly set; then turn it out, and -garnish it according to taste. <i>Time.</i>—10 -to 15 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, with the -best isinglass, 4<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart -mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON SYRUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 -pints of water, 1 oz. of citric acid, ½ -drachm of essence of lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the sugar and water together for ¼ -hour, and put it into a basin, where let -it remain till cold. Beat the citric acid -to a powder, mix the essence of lemon -with it, then add these two ingredients -to the syrup; mix well, and bottle for -use. Two tablespoonfuls of the syrup -are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, -and will be found a very refreshing summer -drink. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 tablespoonfuls -of syrup to a tumblerful of cold water.</p> - - -<h3>LEMONS, to Pickle, with the -Peel on.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 lemons, 2 quarts of -boiling water; to each quart of vinegar -allow ½ oz. of cloves, ½ oz. of white -pepper, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, ¼ oz. of -mace and chilies, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, -½ stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves -of garlic. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the lemons into -a brine that will bear an egg; let them -remain in it 6 days, stirring them every -day; have ready 2 quarts of boiling -water, put in the lemons, and allow them -to boil for ¼ hour; take them out, and -let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry -and cold. Boil up sufficient vinegar to -cover the lemons, with all the above -ingredients, allowing the same proportion -as stated to each quart of vinegar. -Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the -vinegar, &c. boiling hot, and tie down -with a bladder. They will be fit for use -in about 12 months, or rather sooner. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—This should be made from -November to April.</p> - - -<h3>LEMONS, to Pickle, without the Peel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 lemons, 1 lb. of fine -salt; to each quart of vinegar, the same -ingredients as in the last recipe. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -the lemons, slit each one down -3 times, so as not to divide them, and -rub the salt well into the divisions; place -them in a pan, where they must remain -for a week, turning them every other -day; then put them in a Dutch oven -before a clear fire until the salt has -become perfectly dry; then arrange -them in a jar. Pour over sufficient boiling -vinegar to cover them, to which have -been added the ingredients mentioned in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> -the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, -and in about 9 months they will be fit -for use. <i>Seasonable.</i>—The best time to -make this is from November to April.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—After this pickle has been made -from 4 to 5 months, the liquor may be -strained and bottled, and will be found -an excellent lemon ketchup.</p> - - -<h3>LEMON WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 4½ gallons of water -allow the pulp of 50 lemons, the rind of -25, 16 lbs. of loaf sugar, ½ oz. of isinglass, -1 bottle of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel and -slice the lemons, but use only the rind of -25 of them, and put them into the cold -water. Let it stand 8 or 9 days, squeezing -the lemons well every day; then -strain the water off and put it into a -cask with the sugar. Let it work some -time, and when it has ceased working, -put in the isinglass. Stop the cask -down; in about six months put in the -brandy and bottle the wine off. <i>Seasonable.</i>—The -best time to make this is in -January or February, when lemons are -best and cheapest.</p> - - -<h3>LEMONADE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The rind of two lemons, -the juice of 3 large or 4 small ones, ½ lb. -of loaf sugar, 1 quart of boiling water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, -on 2 of the lemons until they have imbibed -all the oil from them, and put it -with the remainder of the sugar into a -jug; add the lemon-juice (but no pips), -and pour over the whole a quart of boiling -water. When the sugar is dissolved, -strain the lemonade through a fine sieve -or piece of muslin, and, when cool, it -will be ready for use. The lemonade will -be much improved by having the white -of an egg beaten up in it; a little sherry -mixed with it, also, makes this beverage -much nicer. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - - -<h3>LEMONADE, Nourishing.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of boiling water, -the juice of 4 lemons, the rinds of 2, -½ pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of loaf -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare off the lemon-rind -thinly, put it into a jug with the sugar, -and pour over the boiling water. Let it -cool, then strain it; add the wine, lemon-juice, -and eggs, previously well beaten, -and also strained, and the beverage will -be ready for use. If thought desirable, -the quantity of sherry and water could -be lessened, and milk substituted for -them. To obtain the flavour of the -lemon-rind properly, a few lumps of the -sugar should be rubbed over it, until -some of the yellow is absorbed. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -1 hour to make it. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 2½ pints -of lemonade. <i>Seasonable</i>, at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LETTUCES.</h3> - -<p>These form one of the principal ingredients -to summer salads; they should be -blanched, and be eaten young. They are -seldom served in any other way, but may -be stewed and sent to table in a good -brown gravy flavoured with lemon-juice. -In preparing them for a salad, carefully -wash them free from dirt, pick off all the -decayed and outer leaves, and dry them -thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth. -Cut off the stalks, and either halve or cut -the lettuces into small pieces. The manner -of cutting them up entirely depends -on the salad for which they are intended. -In France, the lettuces are sometimes -merely wiped with a cloth and not -washed, the cooks there declaring that -the act of washing them injuriously -affects the pleasant crispness of the -plant: in this case scrupulous attention -must be paid to each leaf, and the grit -thoroughly wiped away. <i>Average cost</i>, -when cheapest, 1<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to the end of -August, but may be had all the year.</p> - - -<h3>LEVERET, to Dress a.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 leverets, butter, flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Leverets should be trussed in -the same manner as a hare, but they do -not require stuffing. Roast them before -a clear fire, and keep them well basted -all the time they are cooking. A few -minutes before serving, dredge them -lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. -Serve with plain gravy in the dish, and -send to table red-currant jelly with them. -<i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, in full -season, 4<i>s.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from May to August, -but cheapest in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>LIAISON OF EGGS, for Thickening -Sauces.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 3 eggs, -8 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> -<i>Mode.</i>—Beat up the yolks of the eggs, -to which add the milk, and strain the -whole through a hair-sieve. When the -liaison is being added to the sauce it is -intended to thicken, care must be exercised -to keep stirring it during the whole -time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle. -It should only just simmer, but not boil.</p> - - -<h3>LIQUEUR JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. -of isinglass, 1½ pint of water, the juice of -2 lemons, ¼ pint of liqueur. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, -into a stewpan, and boil them gently by -the side of the fire until there is no scum -remaining, which must be carefully removed -as fast as it rises. Boil the isinglass -with the other ½ pint of water, and -skim it carefully in the same manner. -Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with -the clarified isinglass, to the syrup; put -in the liqueur, and bring the whole to -the boiling-point. Let the saucepan -remain covered by the side of the fire -for a few minutes; then pour the jelly -through a bag, put it into a mould, and -set the mould in ice until required for -table. Dip the mould in hot water, wipe -the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a -knife round the edges, and turn it out -carefully on a dish. Noyeau, Maraschino, -Curaçoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, -answers for this jelly; and, when made -with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually -prepared as directed above. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to boil the sugar and water. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the best isinglass, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 317px;"> -<img src="images/illus-185.jpg" width="317" height="224" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OVAL JELLY MOULD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE, -for Poultry.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The liver of a fowl, one -lemon, salt to taste, ½ pint of melted -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the liver, and let -it boil for a few minutes; peel the lemon -very thin, remove the white part and -pips, and cut it into very small dice; -mince the liver and a small quantity of -the lemon-rind very fine; add these ingredients -to ½ pint of smoothly-made -melted butter; season with a little salt, -put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, -but do not allow it to boil, lest the butter -should oil. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. -<i>Sufficient</i> to serve with a pair of small -fowls.</p> - - -<h3>LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE, -for Poultry.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The liver of a fowl, one -tablespoonful of minced parsley, ½ pint -of melted butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash and -score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, -and mince it very fine; blanch or scald -a small bunch of parsley, of which there -should be sufficient when chopped to fill -a tablespoon; add this with the minced -liver, to ½ pint of smoothly-made melted -butter; let it just boil; when serve. -<i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. <i>Sufficient</i> -for a pair of small fowls.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTERS, to Boil.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Buy the lobsters alive, -and choose those that are heavy and full -of motion, which is an indication of their -freshness. When the shell is incrusted, -it is a sign they are old: medium-sized -lobsters are the best. Have ready a -stewpan of boiling water, salted in the -above proportion; put in the lobster, and -keep it boiling quickly from 20 minutes -to ¾ hour, according to its size, and do -not forget to skim well. If it boils too -long, the meat becomes thready, and if -not done enough, the spawn is not red: -this must be obviated by great attention. -Rub the shell over with a little butter or -sweet oil, which wipe off again. <i>Time.</i>—Small -lobster, 20 minutes to ½ hour; -large ditto, ½ to ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -medium size, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but best from March to -October.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Choose Lobsters.</span>—This shellfish, -if it has been cooked alive, as it -ought to have been, will have a stiffness -in the tail, which, if gently raised, will -return with a spring. Care, however, -must be taken in thus proving it; for if -the tail is pulled straight out, it will not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> -return; when the fish might be pronounced -inferior, which, in reality, may -not be the case. In order to be good, -lobsters should be weighty for their -bulk; if light, they will be watery; and -those of the medium size, are always the -best. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, -and answer very well for sauce. In boiling -lobsters, the appearance of the shell -will be much improved by rubbing over -it a little butter or salad-oil on being -immediately taken from the pot.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER CURRY (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. -butter, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, -½ pint of medium stock, the juice of ½ -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the meat from the -shell, and cut into nice square pieces; -fry the onions of a pale brown in the -butter, stir in the curry-powder and -stock, and simmer till it thickens, when -put in the lobster; stew the whole slowly -for ½ hour, stirring occasionally; and -just before sending to table, put in the -lemon-juice. Serve boiled rice with it, -the same as for other curries. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. -fresh butter, ½ saltspoonful of salt, -pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne -and white pepper to taste, egg, and -bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the meat -from the shell, and pound it in a mortar -with the butter, and gradually add the -mace and seasoning, well mixing the -ingredients; beat all to a smooth paste, -and add a little of the spawn; divide -the mixture into pieces of an equal size, -and shape them like cutlets. They -should not be very thick. Brush them -over with egg, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs, -and stick a short piece of the -small claw in the top of each; fry them -of a nice brown in boiling lard, and drain -them before the fire, on a sieve reversed; -arrange them nicely on a dish, and pour -béchamel in the middle, but not over the -cutlets. <i>Time.</i>—About 8 minutes after -the cutlets are made. <i>Average cost</i> for -this dish, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> all the year. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTERS, to Dress.</h3> - -<p>When the lobster is boiled, rub it over -with a little salad-oil, which wipe off -again; separate the body from the tail, -break off the great claws, and crack them -at the joints, without injuring the meat; -split the tail in halves, and arrange all -neatly in a dish, with the body upright -in the middle, and garnish with parsley.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER, Hot.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, -grated nutmeg; salt, pepper, and pounded -mace, to taste; broad crumbs, 2 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pound the meat of the lobster to -a smooth paste with the butter and seasoning, -and add a few bread-crumbs. -Beat the eggs, and make the whole mixture -into the form of a lobster; pound -the spawn, and sprinkle over it. Bake -¼ hour, and just before serving, lay over -it the tail and body shell, with the small -claws underneath, to resemble a lobster. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -or 5 persons.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls -of béchamel, 6 drops of anchovy -sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, -and put into each a small piece of -bread; cover with paste, brush over with -egg, and bake of a light colour. Take -as much lobster as is required, mince the -meat very fine, and add the above ingredients; -stir it over the fire for 5 minutes; -remove the lids of the patty-cases, take -out the bread, fill with the mixture, and -replace the covers. <i>Seasonably</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER, Potted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lobsters; seasoning to -taste, of nutmeg, pounded mace, white -pepper, and salt; ¼ lb. of butter, 3 or 4 -bay-leaves. <i>Mode.</i>—Take out the meat -carefully from the shell, but do not cut -it up. Put some butter at the bottom of -a dish, lay in the lobster as evenly as -possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning -between. Cover with butter, and -bake for ¾ hour in a gentle oven. When -done, drain the whole on a sieve, and -lay the pieces in potting-jars, with the -seasoning about them. When cold, pour -over it clarified butter, and, if very -highly seasoned, it will keep some time. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i> for this -quantity, 4<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Potted lobster may be used -cold, or as a <i>fricassee</i> with cream sauce.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER (à la Mode Française).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls -of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of -cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to -taste; bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the -meat from the shell, and cut it up into -small square pieces; put the stock, -cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, -add the lobster, and let it simmer gently -for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell, -which must be nicely cleaned, and have -a border of puff-paste; cover it with -bread-crumbs, place small pieces of butter -over, and brown before the fire, or with -a salamander. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER SALAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 hen lobster, lettuces, -endive, small salad (whatever is in season), -a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled -eggs, a few slices of cucumber. -For dressing, 4 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 -do. of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made -mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; cayenne -and salt to taste; ¼ teaspoonful of -anchovy sauce. These ingredients should -be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a -creamy-looking sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the salad, and thoroughly dry it by -shaking it in a cloth. Cut up the lettuces -and endive, pour the dressing on -them, and lightly throw in the small -salad. Mix all well together with the -pickings from the body of the lobster; -pick the meat from the shell, cut it up -into nice square pieces, put half in the -salad, the other half reserve for garnishing. -Separate the yolks from the -whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs; chop the -whites very fine, and rub the yolks -through a sieve, and afterwards the coral -from the inside. Arrange the salad -lightly on a glass dish, and garnish, first -with a row of sliced cucumber, then with -the pieces of lobster, the yolks and -whites of the eggs, coral, and beetroot -placed alternately, and arranged in -small separate bunches, so that the colours -contrast nicely. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from April to October; may be had all -the year, but salad is scarce and expensive -in winter.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A few crayfish make a pretty -garnishing to lobster salad.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with -Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c. (very -Good.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 middling-sized hen -lobster, ¾ pint of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful -of anchovy sauce, ½ oz. of -butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little -pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls -of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose a -hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in -order to render this sauce as good as it -ought to be. Pick the meat from the -shells, and cut it into small square -pieces; put the spawn, which will be -found under the tail of the lobster, into -a mortar with ½ oz. of butter, and pound -it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, -and cover up till wanted. Make -¾ pint of melted butter; put in all the -ingredients except the lobster-meat, and -well mix the sauce before the lobster is -added to it, as it should retain its square -form, and not come to table shredded -and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get -thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to -boil, as the colour would immediately -be spoiled; for it must be remembered -that this sauce should always have a -bright red appearance. If it is intended -to be served with turbot or brill, a little -of the spawn (dried and rubbed through -a sieve without butter) should be saved -to garnish with; but as the goodness, -flavour, and appearance of the sauce so -much depend on having a proper quantity -of spawn, the less used for garnishing -the better. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time. <i>Sufficient</i> to serve -with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for -6 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Melted butter made with milk, -will be found to answer very well for -lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice -white colour will be obtained. Less -quantity than the above may be made -by using a very small lobster, to which -add only ½ pint of melted butter, and -season as above. Where economy is -desired, the cream may be dispensed -with, and the remains of a cold lobster -left from table, may, with a little care, -be converted into a very good sauce.</p> - - -<h3>LOBSTER SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 large lobsters, or 6 -small ones; the crumb of a French roll, -2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> -sweet herbs, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 2 oz. -of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful -of flour, 1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; -forcemeat balls, mace, salt, and pepper -to taste, bread-crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the meat from -the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine, -and small claws in a mortar, previously -taking away the brown fin and the bag -in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with -the crumb of the roll, anchovies, onions, -herbs, lemon-peel, and the water; simmer -gently till all the goodness is extracted, -and strain it off. Pound the -spawn in a mortar, with the butter, -nutmeg, and flour, and mix with it the -cream and milk. Give one boil up, at -the same time adding the tails cut in -pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with -the remainder of the lobster, seasoned -with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a -little flour, and a few bread-crumbs; -moisten them with the egg, heat them in -the soup, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours, or -rather more. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from April to October. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>LUNCHEONS.</h3> - -<p>The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, -a few sweets, or a little hashed -meat, poultry or game, are the usual -articles placed on the table for luncheon, -with bread, and cheese, biscuits, butter, -&c. If a substantial meal is desired, -rump-steaks or mutton chops may be -served, as also veal cutlets, kidneys, or -any dish of that kind. In families where -there is a nursery, the mistress of the -house often partakes of the meal with -the children, and makes it her luncheon. -In the summer, a few dishes of fresh -fruit should be added to the luncheon, or, -instead of this, a compôte of fruit or fruit -tart, or pudding.</p> - - -<h3>MACARONI, as usually served -with the CHEESE COURSE.</h3> - -<h4>I.</h4> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of pipe macaroni, -1 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of Parmesan or -Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, -1 pint of milk, 2 pints of water, bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk and water -into a saucepan with sufficient salt to -flavour it; place it on the fire, and, when -it boils quickly, drop in the macaroni. -Keep the water boiling until it is quite -tender; drain the macaroni, and put it -into a deep dish. Have ready the grated -cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire; -sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and -some of the butter cut into small pieces, -reserving some of the cheese for the top -layer. Season with a little pepper, and -cover the top layer of cheese with some -very fine bread-crumbs. Warm, without -oiling, the remainder of the butter, and -pour it gently over the bread-crumbs, -Place the dish before a bright fire to -brown the crumbs; turn it once or twice, -that it may be equally coloured, and -serve very hot. The top of the macaroni -may be browned with a salamander, -which is even better than placing it -before the fire, as the process is more -expeditious; but it should never be -browned in the oven, as the butter would -oil, and so impart a very disagreeable -flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, -let it be perfectly tender but firm, -no part beginning to melt, and the form -entirely preserved. It may be boiled in -plain-water, with a little salt instead of -using milk, but should then have a small -piece of butter mixed with it. <i>Time.</i>—1 -to 1½ hours to boil the macaroni, -5 minutes to brown it before the fire. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Riband macaroni may be dressed -in the same manner, but does not require -boiling so long a time.</p> - -<h4>II.</h4> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of pipe or riband -macaroni, ½ pint of milk, ½ pint of veal -or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls -of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan -or Cheshire cheese, 1 oz. of butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the macaroni, and boil it -in the gravy and milk until quite tender, -without being broken. Drain it, and -put it into rather a deep dish. Beat the -yolks of the eggs with the cream and -2 tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni -was boiled in; make this sufficiently -hot to thicken, but do not allow it to -boil; pour it over the macaroni, over -which sprinkle the grated cheese and the -butter broken into small pieces; brown -with a salamander, or before the fire, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 to 1½ hour to boil the -macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken the eggs -and cream, 5 minutes to brown. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons, -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p> - - -<h4>III.</h4> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of pipe macaroni, -½ pint of brown gravy No. 436, 6 oz. of -grated Parmesan cheese. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the macaroni, and boil it in salt and -water until quite tender; drain it, and -put it into rather a deep dish. Have -ready a pint of good brown gravy, pour -it hot over the macaroni, and send it to -table with grated Parmesan served on a -separate dish. When the flavour is liked, -a little pounded mace may be added to -the water in which the macaroni is boiled; -but this must always be sparingly added, -as it will impart a very strong flavour. -<i>Time.</i>—1 to 1½ hour to boil the macaroni. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the gravy and cheese, -1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MACARONI, Sweet Pudding.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2½ oz. of macaroni, 2 pints, -of milk, the rind of ½ lemon, 3 eggs, sugar -and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the macaroni, -with a pint of the milk, into a -saucepan with the lemon-peel, and let it -simmer gently until the macaroni is -tender: then put it into a pie-dish without -the peel; mix the other pint of milk -with the eggs; stir these well together, -adding the sugar and brandy, and pour -the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a -little nutmeg over the top, and bake in a -moderate oven for ½ hour. To make this -pudding look nice, a paste should be laid -round the edges of the dish, and, for -variety, a layer of preserve or marmalade -may be placed on the macaroni: in this -case, omit the brandy. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour -to simmer the macaroni; ½ hour to bake -the pudding. <i>Average cost</i>, 11<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>MACARONI SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of macaroni, a piece -of butter the size of a walnut, salt to -taste, 2 quarts of clear stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Throw -the macaroni and butter into boiling -water, with a pinch of salt, and -simmer for ½ an hour. When it is tender, -drain and cut it into thin rings or lengths, -and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew -gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated -Parmesan cheese with it. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>MACARONI, a Sweet Dish of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of macaroni, 1½ pint -of milk, the rind of ½ lemon, 3 oz. of lump -sugar, ¾ pint of custard. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel -and sugar; bring it to the boiling-point, -drop in the macaroni, and let it -gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do -not allow the pipes to break. The form -should be entirely preserved; and, though -tender, should be firm, and not soft, with -no part beginning to melt. Should the -milk dry away before the macaroni is -sufficiently swelled, add a little more. -Make a custard, place the macaroni on a -dish, and pour the custard over the hot -macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg, -and, when cold, garnish the dish with -slices of candied citron. <i>Time.</i>—From -40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the custard, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>MACAROONS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of sweet almonds, -½ lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites -of three eggs, wafer paper. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch, -skin and dry the almonds, and -pound them well with a little orange -flower or plain water, then add the sifted -sugar and the whites of the eggs, which -should be beaten to a stiff froth, and mix -all the ingredients well together. When -the paste looks soft, drop it at equal distances -from a biscuit syringe on to sheets -of wafer paper: put a strip of almond on -the top of each; strew some syrup over, -and bake the macaroons in rather a slow -oven, of a light brown colour. When -hard and set, they are done. They must -not be allowed to get very brown, as that -would spoil their appearance. If the -cakes when baked, appear heavy, add a -little more white of egg, which should -be well whisked up before it is added -to the other ingredients. <i>Time.</i>—From -15 to 20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> -per lb.</p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL.</h3> - -<p>In choosing this fish, purchasers should, -to a great extent, be regulated by the -brightness of its appearance. If it has -a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is -good; but if it be red about the head, it -is stale.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>— 4 middling-sized mackerel, -a nice delicate forcemeat, 3 oz. of -butter; pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean -the fish, take out the roes, and -fill up with forcemeat, and sew up the -slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, -heads and tails alternately, with the -roes; and, between each layer, put some -little pieces of butter, and pepper and -salt. Bake for ½ an hour, and either -serve with plain melted butter or a <i>maître -d’hôtel</i> sauce. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i> for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from April to July. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Baked mackerel may be dressed -in the same way as baked herrings, and -may also be stewed in wine.</p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse the inside -of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the -kettle with sufficient water to cover it -with salt as above; bring it gradually to -boil, skim well, and simmer gently till -done; dish them on a hot napkin, heads -and tails alternately, and garnish with -fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted -butter are the usual accompaniments to -boiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy -sauce is sometimes served with it. <i>Time.</i>—After -the water boils, 10 minutes; for -large mackerel, allow more time. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from April -to July.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When variety is desired, fillet -the mackerel, boil it, and pour over parsley -and butter; send some of this, -besides, in a tureen.</p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL, Broiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pepper and salt to taste, -a small quantity of oil. <i>Mode.</i>—Mackerel -should never be washed when intended -to be broiled, but merely wiped very -clean and dry, after taking out the gills -and insides. Open the back, and put in -a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil it -over a clear fire, turn it over on both -sides, and also on the back. When -sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be -detached from the bone, which will be in -about 10 minutes for a small mackerel. -Chop a little parsley, work it up in the -butter with pepper and salt to taste, and -a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in -the back. Serve before the butter is -quite melted, with a <i>maître d’hôtel</i> sauce -in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—Small mackerel -10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, from 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> from April to July.</p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL, Fillets of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 large mackerel, 1 oz. -butter, 1 small bunch of chopped herbs, -3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, 3 tablespoonfuls -of béchamel; salt, cayenne, -and lemon-juice to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean -the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, -chop them fine, and put them with the -butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in -the mackerel, and simmer very gently -for 10 minutes; take them out, and put -them on a hot dish. Dredge in a little -flour, add the other ingredients, give -one boil, and pour it over the mackerel. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i> for -this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from -April to July. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Fillets of mackerel may be -covered with egg and bread-crumbs, and -fried of a nice brown. Serve with <i>maître -d’hôtel</i> sauce and plain melted butter.</p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, -½ pint of vinegar, 4 mackerel. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the mackerel, and lay them -in a dish; take half the liquor they were -boiled in; add as much vinegar, peppercorns, -and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, -and when cold, pour over the fish. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>MACKEREL, Potted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Mackerel, a blade of -mace, cayenne, salt, and 2 oz. or more -butter, according to the quantity of -mackerel. <i>Mode.</i>—Any remains of cooked -mackerel may be potted as follows; pick -it well from the bones, break it into very -small pieces, and put into a stewpan with -the butter, pounded mace, and other ingredients; -warm it thoroughly, but do -not let it boil; press it into potting pots -and pour clarified butter over it.</p> - - -<h3>MAIGRE SOUP (i.e., Soup without -Meat).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. butter, 6 onions -sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2 lettuces, a -small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of -spinach, 3 pieces of bread-crust, 2 blades -of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> -yolks of 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, -2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Melt the -butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions -to stew gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then -add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and -parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients -well for 10 minutes. Now put in the -water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil -gently for 1½ hour, and, at the moment -of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs -and the vinegar, but do not let it boil, or -the eggs will curdle. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>MAIZE, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The ears of young and -green Indian wheat; to every ½ gallon -of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—This vegetable, which -makes one of the most delicious dishes, -brought to table, is unfortunately very -rarely seen in Britain; and we wonder -that, in the gardens of the wealthy, it is -not invariably cultivated. Our sun, it is -true, possesses hardly power sufficient -to ripen maize; but, with well-prepared -ground, and in a favourable position, it -might be sufficiently advanced by the -beginning of autumn to serve as a vegetable. -The outside sheath being taken -off and the waving fibres removed, let -the ears be placed in boiling water, -where they should remain for about 25 -minutes (a longer time may be necessary -for larger ears than ordinary); and, -when sufficiently boiled and well drained, -they may be sent to table whole, and -with a piece of toast underneath them. -Melted butter should be served with them. -<i>Time.</i>—25 to 35 minutes. <i>Average -cost.</i>—Seldom bought. <i>Sufficient</i> 1 ear for -each person. <i>Seasonable</i> in autumn.</p> - - -<h3>MALT WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. -of sugar, 6 quarts of sweet-wort, 6 quarts -of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins,; ½ lb. of candy, 1 -pint of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the sugar -and water together for 10 minutes; skim -it well, and put the liquor into a convenient-sized -pan or tub. Allow it to cool; -then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. -Let it stand for 3 days, then put it into a -barrel; here it will work or ferment for -another three days or more; then bung -up the cask, and keep it undisturbed for -2 or 3 mouths. After this, add the -raisins (whole), the candy, and brandy, -and, in 6 months’ time, bottle the wine -off. Those who do not brew, may procure -the sweet-wort and tun from any -brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquor that -leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled -with the hops; tun is the new beer after -the whole of the brewing operation has -been completed. <i>Time.</i>—To be boiled -10 minutes; to stand 3 days after mixing; -to ferment 3 days; to remain in -the cask 2 months before the raisins are -added; bottle 6 months after. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in March or October.</p> - - -<h3>MANNA KROUP PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 tablespoonfuls of -manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds, 1 pint -of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -and pound the almonds in a -mortar; mix them with the manna -kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling -milk, and let them steep for about ¼ -hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and -the well-beaten eggs; mix all well together; -put the pudding into a buttered -dish, and bake for ½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MARCH—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu8.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup, -removed by -Salmon and dressed -Cucumber. - -Red Mullet. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Fillets of Whitings. - -Spring Soup, -removed by -Boiled Turbot and Lobster -Sauce. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu8b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Fricasseed Chicken. - -Vol-au-Vent. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Compôte of Pigeons. - -Larded Sweetbreads. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu8c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Fore-quarter of Lamb. - -Braised Capon. - -Boiled Tongue, -garnished. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Ham. - -Roast Fowls. - -Rump of Beef à la -Jardinière. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu8d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Apricot -Tartlets. - -Guinea-Fowls, larded, -removed by -Cabinet Pudding. - -Rhubarb -Tart. - -Custards. - -Wine Jelly. - -Jelly, in -glasses. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Italian Cream. - -Ducklings, -removed by -Nesselrode Pudding. - -Damson -Tart. - -Cheesecakes. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—White soup; clear -gravy soup; boiled salmon, shrimp sauce, -and dressed cucumber; baked mullets -in paper cases. <i>Entrées.</i>—Filet de bœuf -and Spanish sauce; larded sweetbreads; -rissoles; chicken patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -fillet of veal and Béchamel -sauce; boiled leg of lamb; roast fowls, -garnished with water-cresses; boiled -ham, garnished with carrots and mashed -turnips; vegetables—sea-kale, spinach, -or brocoli. <i>Third Course.</i>—Two ducklings; -guinea-fowl, larded; orange -jelly; Charlotte Russe; coffee cream; -ice pudding; macaroni with Parmesan -cheese; spinach, garnished with croûtons; -dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Macaroni soup; boiled -turbot and lobster sauce; salmon cutlets. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Compôte of pigeons; mutton -cutlets and tomato sauce. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -lamb; boiled half calf’s head, -tongue, and brains; boiled bacon-cheek, -garnished with spoonsfuls of spinach; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; -plum-pudding; ginger cream; trifle; -rhubarb tart; cheesecakes; fondues, in -cases; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Calf’s-head soup; brill -and shrimp sauce; broiled mackerel à la -Maître d’Hôtel. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lobster cutlets; -calf’s liver and bacon, aux fines -herbes. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast loin of -veal; two boiled fowls à la Béchamel; -boiled knuckle of ham; vegetables—spinach -or brocoli. <i>Third Course.</i>—Wild -ducks; apple custards; blancmange; -lemon jelly; jam sandwiches; ice pudding; -potatoes à la Maître d’Hôtel; dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; soles -à la Crême. <i>Entrées.</i>—Veal cutlets; -small vols-au-vent. <i>Second Course.</i>—Small -saddle of mutton; half calf’s head; -boiled bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels -sprouts. <i>Third Course.</i>—Cabinet -pudding; orange jelly; custards, in -glasses; rhubarb tart; lobster salad; -dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; baked -mullets. <i>Entrées.</i>—Chicken cutlets; -oyster patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -lamb and mint sauce; boiled leg of pork; -pease pudding; vegetables. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Ducklings; Swiss cream; lemon -jelly; cheesecakes; rhubarb tart; macaroni; -dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Oyster soup; boiled -salmon and dressed cucumber. <i>Entrées.</i>—Rissoles; -fricasseed chicken. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Boiled leg of mutton, caper -sauce; roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Charlotte -aux pommes; orange jelly; -lemon cream; soufflé of arrowroot; sea-kale; -dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Ox-tail soup; boiled -mackerel. <i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed mutton -kidneys; minced veal and oysters. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Stewed shoulder of veal; -roast ribs of beef and horseradish sauce; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; -tartlets of strawberry jam; cheesecakes; -Gâteau de Riz; carrot pudding; sea-kale; -dessert.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>MARCH, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Boiled ½ calf’s head, pickled -pork, the tongue on a small dish -with the brains round it; mutton cutlets -and mashed potatoes. 2. Plum tart -made with bottled fruit, baked custard -pudding, Baroness pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Roast shoulder of mutton -and onion sauce, brocoli, baked potatoes. -2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, -and served with sugar sprinkled over -Cheesecakes.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Mock turtle soup, made -with liquor that calf’s head was boiled in, -and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, -rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. -Boiled plum-pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Fried whitings, melted -butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet -dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. -3. Arrowroot blancmange, and -stewed rhubarb.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Pea-soup made from -liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. -Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed -potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted butter, -potatoes. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, -potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. -Rice pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak pie, haricot -mutton made with remains of cold loin. -2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled -ham, spinach and potatoes. 2. Rhubarb -tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Baked soles, potatoes. -2. Minced veal and rump-steak pie. 3. -Somersetshire dumplings with the remains -of custards poured round them; -marmalade tartlets.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled -leg of mutton, mashed turnips, suet -dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal -rissoles made with remains of fillet of -veal. 3. Cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Stewed mullet. 2. -Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and bread -sauce, mutton pudding, made with a -few slices of the cold meat and the addition -of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup made -with liquor that the mutton was boiled -in, and mixed with the remains of gravy -soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire -pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and -potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets, -and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef, mashed -potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled -fruit.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney -pudding, broiled beef-bones, greens and -potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with -pieces of paste from plum tart, baked -custard pudding.</p> - - -<h3>MARCH, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, -dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, -herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, -oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, -shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, -sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, -whiting.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, house lamb, mutton, -pork, veal.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Capons, chickens, ducklings, -tame and wild pigeons, pullets with eggs, -turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in -full season.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Grouse, hares, partridges, -pheasants, snipes, woodcock.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Beetroot, brocoli (purple -and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, -carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers -(forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, -parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, -spinach, turnips,—various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples (golden and Dutch -pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, -pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried -fruits (foreign), such as almonds and -raisins; French and Spanish plums; -prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.</p> - - -<h3>MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI -PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 breakfast-cupful of vermicelli, -2 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, -¼ lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, -milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Pour some boiling milk -on the vermicelli, and let it remain -covered for 10 minutes; then mix with -it the marmalade, stoned raisins, sugar, -and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, -put the mixture into a buttered mould, -boil for 1½ hour, and serve with custard -sauce. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>MARROW-BONES, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Bones, a small piece of -common paste, a floured cloth. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -the bones neatly sawed into convenient -sizes, and cover the ends with a -small piece of common crust, made with -flour and water. Over this tie a floured -cloth, and place the bones upright in a -saucepan of boiling water, taking care -there is sufficient to cover them. Boil -them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and -paste, and serve them upright on a napkin -with dry toast. Many persons clear -the marrow from the bones after they -are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast -and add a seasoning of pepper: when -served in this manner, it must be very -expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon -gets cold. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Marrow-bones may be baked -after preparing them as in the preceding -recipe; they should be laid in a deep -dish, and baked for 2 hours.</p> - - -<h3>MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve -with Roast Meat, in Soup, with -Salad, &c.</h3> - -<div class="center">(<i>German Recipe.</i>)</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of beef marrow, -1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 penny rolls, -1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful -of minced parsley, salt and -grated nutmeg to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the marrow and butter together to a -cream; well whisk the eggs, and add -these to the other ingredients. When -they are well stirred, put in the rolls, -which should previously be well soaked -in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up -with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients, -omitting the minced onion where -the flavour is very much disliked, and -form the mixture into small round dumplings. -Drop these into boiling broth, -and let them simmer for about 20 minutes -or ½ hour. They may be served in soup, -with roast meat, or with salad, as in -Germany, where they are more frequently -sent to table than in this country. They -are very good. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -7 or 8 dumplings. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>MARROW PUDDING, Baked or -Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of bread-crumbs, -1½ pint of milk, 6 oz. of marrow, 4 eggs, -¼ lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of -each; sugar and grated nutmeg to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make the milk boiling, pour it -hot on to the bread-crumbs, and let these -remain covered for about ½ hour; shred -the marrow, beat up the eggs, and mix -these with the bread-crumbs; add the -remaining ingredients, beat the mixture -well, and either put it into a buttered -mould and boil it for 2½ hours, or put it -into a pie-dish edged with puff-paste, and -bake for rather more than ¾ hour. Before -sending it to table, sift a little pounded -sugar over, after being turned out of the -mould or basin. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours to -boil, ¾ hour to bake. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MAY—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu9.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Asparagus Soup, -removed by -Salmon and Lobster -Sauce. - -Fried Filleted -Soles. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Fillets of Mackerel, -à la Maître d’Hôtel. - -Ox-tail Soup, -removed by -Brill & Shrimp Sauce. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu9b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Lamb Cutlets and -Cucumbers. - -Lobster Pudding. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Curried Fowl. - -Veal Ragoût. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu9c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Saddle of Lamb. - -Raised Pie. - -Roast Fowls. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Boiled Capon and -White Sauce. - -Braised Ham. - -Roast Veal. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu9d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Almond -Cheesecakes. - -Goslings, -removed by -College Puddings. - -Lobster -Salad. - -Noyeau Jelly. - -Italian -Cream. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Charlotte à la -Parisienne. - -Inlaid Jelly. - -Plover’s -Eggs. - -Ducklings, -removed by -Nesselrode Pudding. - -Tartlets. -</p> - - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—White soup; asparagus -soup; salmon cutlets; boiled turbot and -lobster sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Chicken vol-au-vent; -lamb cutlets and cucumbers; -fricandeau of veal; stewed mushrooms. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast lamb; haunch of -mutton; boiled and roast fowls; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; goslings; -Charlotte Russe; Vanilla cream; -gooseberry tart; custards; cheesecakes; -cabinet pudding and iced pudding; dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 10 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Spring soup; salmon à -la Genévése; red mullet. <i>Entrées.</i>—Chicken -vol-au-vent; calf’s liver and -bacon aux fines herbes. <i>Second Course.</i>—Saddle -of mutton; half calf’s head, -tongue, and brains; braised ham; asparagus. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast pigeons; -ducklings; sponge-cake pudding; Charlotte -à la vanille; gooseberry tart; cream; -cheesecakes; apricot-jam tart; dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; brill and -lobster sauce; fried fillets of mackerel. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Lamb cutlets and cucumbers; -lobster patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -fillet of veal; boiled leg of lamb; asparagus. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; gooseberry -tart; custards; fancy pastry; -soufflé; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Vermicelli soup; boiled -salmon and anchovy sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Fillets -of beef and tomato sauce; sweetbreads. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast lamb; -boiled capon; asparagus. <i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; -cabinet pudding; compôte -of gooseberries; custards in glasses; -blancmange; lemon tartlets; fondue; -dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Macaroni soup; boiled -mackerel à la maître d’hôtel; fried -smelts. <i>Entrées.</i>—Scollops of fowl; -lobster pudding. <i>Second Course.</i>—Boiled -leg of lamb and spinach; roast sirloin of -beef and horseradish sauce; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast leveret; salad; -soufflé of rice; ramakins; strawberry-jam -tartlets; orange jelly; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Julienne soup; trout -with Dutch sauce; salmon cutlets. <i>Entrées.</i>—Lamb -cutlets and mushrooms; -vol-au-vent of chicken. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -lamb; calf’s head à la tortue; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Spring -chickens; iced pudding; Vanilla cream; -clear jelly; tartlets; cheesecakes; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Soup à la reine; crimped -trout and lobster sauce; baked whitings -aux fines herbes. <i>Entrées.</i>—Braised -mutton cutlets and cucumbers; stewed -pigeons. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast fillet of -veal; bacon-cheek and greens; fillet of -beef à la jardinière. <i>Third Course.</i>—Ducklings; -soufflé à la vanille; compôte -of oranges; meringues; gooseberry tart; -fondue; dessert.</p> - - -<h3>MAY, Plain Family Dinners for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle -of mutton, asparagus and potatoes. -3. Gooseberry tart, custards.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Fried whitings, anchovy -sauce. 2. Cold mutton, mashed potatoes, -stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Haricot mutton, made -from remains of cold mutton, rump-steak -pie. 2. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast loin of veal and -spinach, boiled bacon, mutton cutlets -and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding -and cream.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Spring soup. 2. Roast -leg of lamb, mint sauce, spinach, curried -veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. -2. Stewed rump-steak, -cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry -pudding.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak -pudding, lamb cutlets, and cucumbers. -3. Macaroni.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Boiled salmon and lobster -or caper sauce. 2. Roast lamb, mint -sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, -gooseberry tart.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Salmon warmed in remains -of lobster sauce and garnished with -croûtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal -and rice, cold lamb and dressed cucumber. -3. Slices of pudding warmed, and -served with sugar sprinkled over. Baked -rice pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish -sauce, Yorkshire pudding, spinach -and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted -butter. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber -or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. -3. Baked plum-pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Spring soup. 2. Calf’s -liver and bacon, broiled beef-bones, -spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry -tart.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, -baked potatoes, onion sauce, spinach. -2. Currant dumplings.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Broiled mackerel, fennel -sauce or plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak -pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. -3. Baked arrowroot pudding.</p> - - -<h3>MAY, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, -dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, red -and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, -smelts, soles, trout, turbot.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, -green geese, leverets, pullets, rabbits.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Asparagus, beans, early -cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cresses, -cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, -salads, sea-kale,—various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples, green apricots, cherries, -currants for tarts, gooseberries, -melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.</p> - - -<h3>MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing -for cold Chicken, -Meat, and other cold Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 2 eggs, -6 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls -of vinegar, salt and white -pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of white -stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the yolks of the eggs into a basin, -with a seasoning of pepper and salt; have -ready the above quantities of oil and -vinegar, in separate vessels; add them -<i>very gradually</i> to the eggs; continue -stirring and rubbing the mixture with a -wooden spoon, as herein consists the -secret of having a nice smooth sauce. -It cannot be stirred too frequently, and -it should be made in a very cool place, -or, if ice is at hand, it should be mixed -over it. When the vinegar and oil are -well incorporated with the eggs, add the -stock and cream, stirring all the time, -and it will then be ready for use.</p> - -<p>For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may -be coloured with lobster-spawn, pounded; -and for poultry or meat, where variety is -desired, a little parsley-juice may be -used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, -tarragon, or any other flavoured -vinegar, may be substituted for plain, -where they are liked. <i>Average cost</i>, for -this quantity, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a small -salad.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In mixing the oil and vinegar -with the eggs, put in first a few drops of -oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, -never adding a large quantity of either -at one time. By this means, you can be -more certain of the sauce not curdling. -Patience and practice, let us add, are -two essentials for making this sauce -good.</p> - - -<h3>MELONS.</h3> - -<p>This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked -in any way, but is sent whole to table -on a dish garnished with leaves or -flowers, as fancy dictates. A border of -any other kind of small fruit, arranged -round the melon, has a pretty effect, -the colour of the former contrasting -nicely with the melon. Plenty of -pounded sugar should be served with it; -and the fruit should be cut lengthwise, -in moderate-sized slices. In America, it -is frequently eaten with pepper and salt. -<i>Average cost.</i>—English, in full season, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 5<i>s.</i> each; when scarce, 10<i>s.</i> to -15<i>s.</i>; <i>seasonable</i>, June to August. French, -2<i>s.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each; <i>seasonable</i>, June and -July. Dutch, 9<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> each; <i>seasonable</i>, -July and August.</p> - - -<h3>MERINGUES.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 230px;"> -<img src="images/illus-197.jpg" width="230" height="231" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">MERINGUES.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of pounded sugar, -the whites of 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Whisk -the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> -and, with a wooden spoon, stir in <i>quickly</i> -the pounded sugar; and have some -boards thick enough to put in the oven -to prevent the bottom of the meringues -from acquiring too much colour. Cut -some strips of paper about 2 inches wide; -place this paper on the board, and drop -a tablespoonful at a time of the mixture -on the paper, taking care to let all the -meringues be the same size. In dropping -it from the spoon, give the mixture the -form of an egg, and keep the meringues -about 2 inches apart from each other on -the paper. Strew over them some sifted -sugar, and bake in a moderate oven for -½ hour. As soon as they begin to colour, -remove them from the oven; take each -slip of paper by the two ends, and turn -it gently on the table, and, with a small -spoon, take out the soft part of each -meringue. Spread some clean paper on -the board, turn the meringues upside -down, and put them into the oven to -harden and brown on the other side. -When required for table, fill them with -whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur or -vanilla, and sweetened with pounded -sugar. Join two of the meringues together, -and pile them high in the dish, as -shown in the annexed drawing. To vary -their appearance, finely-chopped almonds -or currants may be strewn over them -before the sugar is sprinkled over; and -they may be garnished with any bright-coloured -preserve. Great expedition is -necessary in making this sweet dish; as, -if the meringues are not put into the -oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are -mixed, the former melts, and the mixture -would run on the paper, instead of -keeping its egg-shape. The sweeter the -meringues are made, the crisper will they -be; but, if there is not sufficient sugar -mixed with them, they will most likely -be tough. They are sometimes coloured -with cochineal; and, if kept well covered -in a dry place, will remain good for a -month or six weeks. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -about ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, with the -cream and flavouring, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -make 2 dozen meringues. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>MILK.</h3> - -<p>Milk, when of good quality, is of an -opaque white colour: the cream always -comes to the top; the well-known milky -odour is strong; it will boil without -altering its appearance in these respects; -the little bladders which arise on the -surface will renew themselves if broken -by the spoon. To boil milk is, in fact, -the simplest way of testing its quality. -The commonest adulterations of milk -are not of a hurtful character. It is a -good deal thinned with water, and sometimes -thickened with a little starch, or -coloured with yolk of egg, or even -saffron; but these processes have nothing -murderous in them.</p> - - -<h3>MILK AND CREAM, to keep, in -hot Weather.</h3> - -<p>When the weather is very warm, and -it is very difficult to prevent milk from -turning sour and spoiling the cream, it -should be scalded, and it will then remain -good for a few hours. It must on -no account be allowed to boil, or there -will be a skin instead of a cream upon -the milk; and the slower the process the -safer will it be. A very good plan to -scald milk, is to put the pan that contains -it into a saucepan or wide kettle of -boiling water. When the surface looks -thick, the milk is sufficiently scalded, -and it should then be put away in a cool -place in the same vessel that it was -scalded in. Cream may be kept for 24 -hours, if scalded without sugar; and by -the addition of the latter ingredient, it -will remain good double the time, if -kept in a cool place. All pans, jugs, -and vessels intended for milk, should be -kept beautifully clean, and well scalded -before the milk is put in, as any negligence -in this respect may cause large -quantities of it to be spoiled; and milk -should never be kept in vessels of zinc or -copper. Milk may be preserved good in -hot weather, for a few hours, by placing -the jug which contains it in ice, or very -cold water; or a pinch of bicarbonate of -soda may be introduced into the liquid.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>MILK AND CREAM, Separation -of.</h3> - -<p>If it be desired that the milk should -be freed entirely from cream, it should -be poured into a very shallow broad pan -or dish, not more than 1½ inch deep, as -cream cannot rise through a great depth -of milk. In cold and wet weather, milk -is not so rich as it is in summer and -warm weather, and the morning’s milk -is always richer than the evening’s. The -last-drawn milk of each milking, at all -times and seasons, is richer than the -first-drawn, and on that account should -be set apart for cream. Milk should be -shaken as little as possible when carried -from the cow to the dairy, and should be -poured into the pans very gently. Persons -not keeping cows, may always have -a little cream, provided the milk they -purchase be pure and unadulterated. -As soon as it comes in, it should be -poured into very shallow open pie-dishes, -and set by in a very cool place, and in 7 -or 8 hours a nice cream should have risen -to the surface.</p> - - -<h3>MILK AND CREAM, Substitute -for, in Tea and Coffee.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 new laid egg to every -large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee. -<i>Mode.</i>—Beat up the whole of the egg in -a basin, put it into a cup, and pour over -it the tea or coffee quite hot, stirring all -the time to prevent the egg from curdling. -In point of nourishment, both tea -and coffee are much improved by this -addition. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 egg to every -large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee.</p> - - -<h3>MILK SOUP (a nice Dish for -Children).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful -of salt, 1 teaspoonful of powdered -cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of -pounded sugar, or more if liked, 4 thin -slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the milk with the salt, -cinnamon, and sugar; lay the bread in -a deep dish, pour over it a little of the -milk, and keep it hot over a stove, without -burning. Beat up the yolks of the -eggs, add them to the milk, and stir it -over the fire till it thickens. Do not let -it curdle. Pour it upon the bread, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—¾ of an hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all the -year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 children.</p> - - -<h3>MINCE PIES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Good puff-paste, mincemeat. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make some good puff-paste -by recipe; roll it out to the thickness -of about -¼ inch, and -line some -good-sized -patty-pans -with it; fill -them with -mincemeat, -cover with the paste, and cut it off all -round close to the edge of the tin. Put -the pies into a brisk oven, to draw the -paste up, and bake for 25 minutes, or -longer, should the pies be very large; -brush them over with the white of an -egg, beaten with the blade of a knife to a -stiff froth; sprinkle over pounded sugar, -and put them into the oven for a minute -or two, to dry the egg; dish the pies on -a white d’oyley, and serve hot. They -may be merely sprinkled with pounded -sugar instead of being glazed, when that -mode is preferred. To re-warm them, -put the pies on the patty-pans, and let -them remain in the oven for 10 minutes -or ¼ hour, and they will be almost as -good as if freshly made. <i>Time.</i>—25 to -30 minutes; 10 minutes to re-warm them. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i>—½ lb. -of paste for 4 pies. <i>Seasonable</i> at Christmas -time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 210px;"> -<img src="images/illus-198.jpg" width="210" height="107" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">MINCE PIES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MINCEMEAT.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of -currants, 1½ lb. of lean beef, 3 lbs. of -beef suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 2 oz. -of citron, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, -2 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 large -nutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of -2 lemons, the juice of 1, ½ pint of brandy. -<i>Mode.</i>—Stone and <i>cut</i> the raisins once or -twice across, but do not chop them; -wash, dry, and pick the currants free -from stalks and grit, and mince the beef -and suet, taking care that the latter -is chopped very fine; slice the citron -and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, and -pare, core, and mince the apples; mince -the lemon-peel, strain the juice, and -when all the ingredients are thus prepared, -mix them well together, adding -the brandy when the other things are -well blended; press the whole into a jar, -carefully exclude the air, and the mincemeat -will be ready for use in a fortnight.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> -If an additional quantity of spice be preferred, -add ½ teaspoonful of pounded -mace, and the same of pounded allspice. -We, however, prefer the mincemeat -without the latter ingredients, and can -vouch for its excellence. <i>Average cost</i> -for this quantity, 8<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this about the beginning of December.</p> - - -<h3>MINCEMEAT, Excellent.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 large lemons, 3 large -apples, 1 lb. of stoned raisins, 1 lb. of -currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of moist -sugar, 1 oz. of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. -of sliced candied orange-peel, and the -same quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful -of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of orange -marmalade. <i>Mode.</i>—Grate the rinds of -the lemons; squeeze out the juice, strain -it, and boil the remainder of the lemons -until tender enough to pulp or chop very -finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, -which should be baked, and their skins -and cores removed; put in the remaining -ingredients one by one, and, as they are -added, mix everything very thoroughly -together. Put the mincemeat into a -stone jar with a closely-fitting lid, and in -a fortnight it will be ready for use. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—This should be made the -first or second week in December.</p> - - -<h3>MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast -Lamb.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 dessertspoonfuls of -chopped mint, 2 dessertspoonfuls of -pounded white sugar, ¼ pint of vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the mint, which should be -young and fresh-gathered, free from -grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, -mince them very fine, and put them into -a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and -stir till the former is dissolved. This -sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 -hours before wanted for table, as the -vinegar then becomes impregnated with -the flavour of the mint. By many persons, -the above proportion of sugar would -not be considered sufficient; but as -tastes vary, we have given the quantity -which we have found to suit the general -palate. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -serve with a middling-size joint of lamb.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Where green mint is scarce and -not obtainable, mint vinegar may be substituted -for it, and will be found very -acceptable in early spring.</p> - - -<h3>MINT VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Vinegar, mint. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -some nice fresh mint, pick -the leaves from the stalks, and fill a -bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to -them until the bottle is full; <i>cover closely</i> -to exclude the air, and let it infuse for a -fortnight. Then strain the liquor, and -put it into small bottles for use, of which -the corks should be sealed. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -should be made in June, July or -August.</p> - - -<h3>MOCK TURTLE SOUP.</h3> - - -<h4>I.</h4> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ a calf’s head, ¼ lb. of -butter, ¼ lb. of lean ham, 2 tablespoonfuls -of minced parsley, a little minced -lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, basil, -2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms -(when obtainable), 2 shalots, 2 tablespoonfuls -of flour, ¼ bottle of Madeira or -sherry, forcemeat balls, cayenne, salt -and mace to taste, the juice of 1 lemon -and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessertspoonful of -pounded sugar, 3 quarts of best stock. -<i>Mode.</i>—Scald the head with the skin on, -remove the brain, tie the head up in a -cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then -take the meat from the bones, cut it into -small square pieces, and throw them into -cold water. Now take the meat, put it -into a stewpan, and cover with stock; -let it boil gently for an hour, or rather -more, if not quite tender, and set it on -one side. Melt the butter in another -stewpan, and add the ham, cut small, -with the herbs, parsley, onions, shalots, -mushrooms, and nearly a pint of stock; -let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and -then dredge in as much flour as will dry -up the butter. Fill up with the remainder -of the stock, add the wine, let it stew -gently for 10 minutes, rub it through a -tammy, and put it to the calf’s head; -season with cayenne, and, if required, a -little salt; add the juice of the orange -and lemon; and when liked, ¼ teaspoonful -of pounded mace, and the sugar. -Put in the forcemeat balls, simmer -5 minutes, and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—4½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart, -or 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> without wine or forcemeat -balls. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 10 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The bones of the head should -be well stewed in the liquor it was first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> -boiled in, and will make good white -stock, flavoured with vegetables, &c.</p> - - -<h4>II.</h4> - -<div class="center">(<i>More Economical.</i>)</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A knuckle of veal weighing -5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels, 2 large onions -stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet -herbs, 3 blades of mace, salt to taste, -12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 -forcemeat balls, a little lemon-juice, -4 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all the -ingredients, except the forcemeat balls -and lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and -stew for 6 hours. Do not open it till -cold. When wanted for use, skim off all -the fat, and strain carefully; place it on -the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half -squares, put it, with the forcemeat -balls and lemon-juice, into the soup, and -serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful -of anchovy, or Harvey’s sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—6 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> -per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 10 persons.</p> - - -<h3>MUFFINS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every quart of milk -allow 1½ oz. of German yeast, a little -salt; flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Warm the milk, -add to it the yeast, and mix these well -together; put them into a pan, and stir -in sufficient -flour to make -the whole into -a dough of -rather a soft -consistence; -cover it over with a cloth, and place it -in a warm place to rise, and, when light -and nicely risen, divide the dough into -pieces, and round them to the proper -shape with the hands; place them in a -layer of flour about two inches thick, on -wooden trays, and let them rise again: -when this is effected, they each will -exhibit a semi-globular shape. Then -place them carefully on a hot plate or -stove, and bake them until they are -slightly browned, turning them when -they are done on one side. Muffins are -not easily made, and are more generally -purchased than manufactured at home. -<i>To toast them</i>, divide the edge of the -muffin all round, by pulling it open to -the depth of about an inch, with the -fingers. Put it on a toasting-fork, and -hold it before a very clear fire until one -side is nicely browned, but not burnt; -turn, and toast it on the other. Do not -toast them too quickly, as, if this be -done, the middle of the muffin will not -be warmed through. When done, divide -them by pulling them open; butter -them slightly on both sides, put them -together again, and cut them into -halves: when sufficient are toasted and -buttered, pile them on a very hot dish, -and send them very quickly to table. -<i>Time.</i>—From 20 minutes to ½ hour to -bake them. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 muffin -to each person.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 209px;"> -<img src="images/illus-200.jpg" width="209" height="63" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">MUFFINS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MULBERRIES, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 2 lbs. of fruit and -1 pint of juice allow 2½ lbs. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put some of the fruit into a preserving -pan, and simmer it gently until -the juice is well drawn. Strain it through -a bag, measure it, and to every pint -allow the above proportion of sugar and -fruit. Put the sugar into the preserving-pan, -moisten it with the juice, boil it up, -skim well, and then add the mulberries, -which should be ripe, but not soft enough -to break to a pulp. Let them stand in -the syrup till warm through, then set -them on the fire to boil gently; when -half done, turn them carefully into an -earthen pan, and let them remain till the -next day; then boil them as before, and -when the syrup is thick, and becomes -firm when cold, put the preserve into -pots. In making this, care should be -taken not to break the mulberries: this -may be avoided by very gentle stirring, -and by simmering the fruit very slowly. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour to extract the juice; -¼ hour to boil the mulberries the first -time, ¼ hour the second time. <i>Seasonable</i> -in August and September.</p> - - -<h3>MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 tablespoonfuls of curry -powder, 6 onions, 1 clove of garlic, 1 oz. -of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, -or mango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl -or rabbit; 4 slices of lean bacon; 2 quarts -of medium stock, or, if wanted very -good, best stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice and fry -the onions of a nice colour; line the -stewpan with the bacon; cut up the -rabbit or fowl into small joints, and -slightly brown them; put in the fried -onions, the garlic, and stock and simmer -gently till the meat is tender, skim very -carefully, and when the meat is done, -rub the curry powder to a smooth batter:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> -add it to the soup with the almonds, -which must be first pounded with a little -of the stock. Put in seasoning and -lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, and -serve boiled rice with it. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This soup can also be made -with breast of veal, or calf’s head. Vegetable -mullagatawny is made with veal -stock, by boiling and pulping chopped -vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, -and tomatoes, and seasoning with curry -powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of -meat, good curry powder, and strong -stock, are necessary to make this soup -good.</p> - - -<h3>MULLET, Grey.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each -gallon of water. <i>Mode.</i>—If the fish be -very large, it should be laid in cold -water, and gradually brought to a boil; -if small, put it in boiling water, salted -in the above proportion. Serve with -anchovy sauce and plain melted butter. -<i>Time.</i>—According to size, ¼ to ¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from -July to October.</p> - - -<h3>MULLET, Red.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Oiled paper, thickening -of butter and flour, ½ teaspoonful of anchovy -sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean the -fish, take out the gills, but leave the -inside, fold in oiled paper, and bake them -gently. When done, take the liquor that -flows from the fish, add a thickening of -butter kneaded with flour; put in the -other ingredients, and let it boil for -2 minutes. Serve the sauce in a tureen, -and the fish, either with or without the -paper cases. <i>Time.</i>—About 25 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time, but more plentiful in summer.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Red mullet may be broiled, and -should be folded in oiled paper, the same -as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned -with pepper and salt. They may be -served without sauce; but if any is required, -use melted butter, Italian or -anchovy sauce. They should never be -plain boiled.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOM KETCHUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each peck of mushrooms -½ lb. of salt; to each quart of -mushroom-liquor ¼ oz. of cayenne, ½ oz. -of allspice, ½ oz. of ginger, 2 blades of -pounded mace. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose full-grown -mushroom flaps, and take care -they are perfectly <i>fresh gathered</i> when -the weather is tolerably dry; for, if they -are picked during very heavy rain, the -ketchup from which they are made is -liable to get musty, and will not keep -long. Put a layer of them in a deep pan, -sprinkle salt over them, and then another -layer of mushrooms, and so on alternately. -Let them remain for a few -hours, when break them up with the -hand; put them in a nice cool place for -3 days, occasionally stirring and mashing -them well, to extract from them as much -juice as possible. Now measure the -quantity of liquor without straining, and -to each quart allow the above proportion -of spices, &c. Put all into a stone jar, -cover it up very closely, put it in a -saucepan of boiling water, set it over -the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours. Have -ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it -the contents of the jar, and let the whole -simmer very gently for ½ hour; pour it -into a jug, where it should stand in a -cool place till the next day; then pour it -off into another jug, and strain it into -very dry clean bottles, and do not squeeze -the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup -add a few drops of brandy. Be careful -not to shake the contents, but leave all -the sediment behind in the jug; cork -well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so -as perfectly to exclude the air. When a -very clear bright ketchup is wanted, the -liquor must be strained through a very -fine hair-sieve, or flannel bag, <i>after</i> it has -been very gently poured off; if the operation -is not successful, it must be repeated -until you have quite a clear liquor. It -should be examined occasionally, and if -it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a -few peppercorns. <i>Seasonable</i> from the -beginning of September to the middle of -October, when this ketchup should be -made.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This flavouring ingredient, if -genuine and well prepared, is one of the -most useful store sauces to the experienced -cook, and no trouble should be spared in -its preparation. Double ketchup is made -by reducing the liquor to half the quantity; -for example, 1 quart must be boiled -down to 1 pint. This goes farther than -ordinary ketchup, as so little is required -to flavour a good quantity of gravy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> -The sediment may also be bottled for -immediate use, and will be found to -answer for flavouring <i>thick</i> soups or -gravies.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOM POWDER (a valuable -addition to Sauces and -Gravies, when fresh Mushrooms -are not obtainable).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ peck of large mushrooms, -2 onions, 12 cloves, ¼ oz. of -pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white -pepper. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the mushrooms, -wipe them perfectly free from grit and -dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all -those that are at all worm-eaten; put -them into a stewpan with the above -ingredients, but without water; shake -them over a clear fire, till all the liquor -is dried up, and be careful not to let -them burn; arrange them on tins, and -dry them in a slow oven; pound them to -a fine powder, which put into small <i>dry</i> -bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and -keep it in a dry place. In using this -powder, add it to the gravy just before -serving, when it will merely require one -boil-up. The flavour imparted by this -means to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly -good. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This should be -made in September, or at the beginning -of October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If the bottles in which it is -stored away are not perfectly dry, as, -also, the mushroom powder, it will keep -good but a very short time.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOM SAUCE, very rich -and good, to serve with Fowls -or Rabbits.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of mushroom-buttons, -salt to taste, a little grated nutmeg, -1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of -cream, 2 oz. of butter, flour to thicken. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the buttons with a piece of -flannel and salt, to take off the skin; -cut off the stalks, and put them in a -stewpan with the above ingredients, -previously kneading together the butter -and flour; boil the whole for about ten -minutes, stirring all the time. Pour -some of the sauce over the fowls, and -the remainder serve in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to serve with a pair of fowls. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to October.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOM SAUCE, Brown, to -serve with Roast Meat, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>— ½ pint of button mushrooms, -½ pint of good beef gravy, 1 tablespoonful -of mushroom ketchup (if at -hand), thickening of butter and flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the gravy into a saucepan, -thicken it, and stir over the fire until it -boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting -off the stalks, and wiping them free from -grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms -cut into small pieces will answer for a -brown sauce, when the buttons are not -obtainable; put them into the gravy, -and let them simmer very gently for -about 10 minutes; then add the ketchup, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -10 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When fresh mushrooms are not -obtainable, the powder may be used as -a substitute for brown sauce.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOM SAUCE, White, to -serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, -&c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Rather more than ½ pint -of button mushrooms, lemon-juice, and -water, 1 oz. of butter, ½ pint of Béchamel, -¼ teaspoonful of pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Turn -the mushrooms white by putting -them into lemon-juice and water, having -previously cut off the stalks and wiped -them perfectly free from grit. Chop -them, and put them in a stewpan with -the butter. When the mushrooms are -softened, add the Béchamel, and simmer -for about 5 minutes; should they, however, -not be done enough, allow rather -more time. They should not boil longer -than necessary, as they would then lose -their colour and flavour. Rub the whole -through a tammy, and serve very hot. -After this, it should be warmed in a bain -marie. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether ¼ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to October.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOM SAUCE, White, to -serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, -&c. (a more simple Method).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>— ½ pint of melted butter, -made with milk, ½ pint of button mushrooms, -1 dessertspoonful of mushroom -ketchup, if at hand; cayenne and salt to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the melted butter -with milk, and add to it the mushrooms,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> -which must be nicely cleaned, and free -from grit, and the stalks cut off. Let -them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, -or until they are quite tender. -Put in the seasoning and ketchup; let -it just boil, when serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from August to October.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, Baked (a Breakfast, -Luncheon, or Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, -butter, pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—For -this mode of cooking, the mushroom-flaps -are better than the buttons, and -should not be too large. Cut off a portion -of the stalk, peel the top, and wipe -the mushrooms carefully with a piece of -flannel and a little fine salt. Put them -into a tin baking-dish, with a very small -piece of butter placed on each mushroom; -sprinkle over a little pepper, and -let them bake for about 20 minutes, or -longer should the mushrooms be very -large. Have ready a <i>very hot</i> dish, pile -the mushrooms high in the centre, pour -the gravy round, and send them to table -quickly, with very <i>hot</i> plates. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes; large mushrooms, ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each for large mushroom-flaps. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Meadow mushrooms in -September and October; cultivated -mushrooms may be had at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, Broiled (a Breakfast, -Luncheon, or Supper Dish).</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 192px;"> -<img src="images/illus-203.jpg" width="192" height="70" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BROILED MUSHROOMS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Mushroom-flaps, pepper -and salt to taste, butter, lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse the mushrooms by -wiping them -with a piece -of flannel and -a little salt; cut -off a portion of -the stalk, and -peel the tops; -broil them over a clear fire, turning -them once, and arrange them on a very -hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on -each mushroom, season with pepper -and salt, and squeeze over them a few -drops of lemon-juice. Place the dish -before the fire, and when the butter is -melted, serve very hot and quickly. -Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to -this mode of cooking than the buttons: -the latter are better in stews. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes for medium-sized mushrooms. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each for large mushrooms. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms -to each person. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Meadow -mushrooms in September and -October; cultivated mushrooms may be -had at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, Dried.</h3> - -<p><i>Mode.</i>—Wipe them clean, take away -the brown part, and peel off the skin; -lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a -cool oven, when they will shrivel considerably. -Keep them in paper bags, -which hang in a dry place. When -wanted for use, put them into cold -gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, -and it will be found that they will regain -nearly their usual size.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient vinegar to -cover the mushrooms; to each quart of -mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, -1 oz. of ground pepper, salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose some nice young button -mushrooms for pickling, and rub off the -skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and -cut off the stalks; if very large, take out -the red inside, and reject the black ones, -as they are too old. Put them into a stewpan, -sprinkle salt over them, with -pounded mace and pepper in the above -proportion; shake them well over a clear -fire until the liquor flows, and keep them -there until they are all dried up again; -then add as much vinegar as will cover -them; just let it simmer for 1 minute, -and store it away in stone jars for use. -When cold, tie down with bladder and -keep in a dry place: they will remain -good for a length of time, and are generally -considered delicious. <i>Seasonable.</i>—-Make -this the same time as ketchup, -from the beginning of September to the -middle of October.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, to Preserve.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each quart of mushrooms, -allow 3 oz. butter, pepper and -salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the mushrooms, -put them into cold water, with -a little lemon-juice; take them out and -<i>dry</i> them very carefully in a cloth. Put -the butter into a stewpan capable of -holding the mushrooms; when it is -melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, -and a seasoning of pepper and -salt; draw them down over a slow fire, -and let them remain until their liquor is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> -boiled away, and they have become quite -dry, but be careful in not allowing them -to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. -When done, put them into pots, and -pour over the top clarified butter. If -wanted for immediate use, they will -keep good a few days without being covered -over. To re-warm them, put the -mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the -butter from them, and they will be -ready for use. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Meadow mushrooms in September -and October; cultivated mushrooms -may be had at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint mushroom-buttons, -3 oz. of fresh butter, white pepper -and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful -of flour, cream or milk, ¼ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -off the ends of the stalks, and pare -neatly a pint of mushroom-buttons; put -them into a basin of water, with a little -lemon juice, as they are done. When -all are prepared, take them from the -water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, -and put them into a stewpan with -the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and -the juice of ½ lemon; cover the pan -closely, and let the mushrooms stew -gently from 20 to 25 minutes; then -thicken the butter with the above proportion -of flour, add gradually sufficient -cream, or cream and milk, to -make the sauce of a proper consistency, -and put in the grated nutmeg. If the -mushrooms are not perfectly tender, -stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove -every particle of butter which may be -floating on the top, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, from 9<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per -pint. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Meadow mushrooms in September -and October.</p> - - -<h3>MUSHROOMS, Stewed in Gravy.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of mushroom-buttons, -1 pint of brown gravy, ¼ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a pint of brown -gravy, cut nearly all the stalks away -from the mushrooms and peel the tops; -put them into a stewpan, with the gravy, -and simmer them gently from 20 minutes -to ½ hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning -of cayenne and salt, and serve very hot. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 -or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Meadow -mushrooms in September and October.</p> - - -<h3>MUSTARD, How to Mix.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Mustard, salt and water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mustard should be mixed -with water that has been boiled and allowed -to cool; hot water destroys its -essential properties, and raw cold water -might cause it to ferment. Put the -mustard into a cup, with a small pinch of -salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient -boiled water to make it drop from -the spoon without being watery. Stir -and mix well, and rub the lumps well -down with the back of a spoon, as well-mixed -mustard should be perfectly free -from these. The mustard-pot should not -be more than half-full, or rather less if -it will not be used for a day or two, as it -is so much better when it is freshly -mixed.</p> - - -<h3>MUSTARD, Indian, an excellent -Relish to Bread and Butter, or -any cold Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of the best mustard, -¼ lb. of flour, ½ oz. of salt, 4 shalots, 4 -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls -of ketchup, ¼ bottle of anchovy -sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the mustard, flour, -and salt into a basin, and make them -into a stiff paste with boiling water. -Boil the shalots with the vinegar, ketchup, -and anchovy sauce, for 10 minutes, -and pour the whole, <i>boiling</i>, over the -mixture in the basin; stir well, and reduce -it to a proper thickness; put it into -a bottle, with a bruised shalot at the -bottom, and store away for use. This -makes an excellent relish, and if properly -prepared will keep for years.</p> - - -<h3>MUSTARD, Tartar.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Horseradish vinegar, -cayenne, ½ a teacupful of mustard. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -ready sufficient horseradish vinegar -to mix with the above proportion of -mustard; put the mustard into a cup, -with a slight seasoning of cayenne; mix -it perfectly smooth with the vinegar, -adding this a little at a time; rub down -with the back of a spoon any lumps that -may appear, and do not let it be too -thin. Mustard may be flavoured in -various ways, with Tarragon, shalot, -celery, and many other vinegars, herbs, -spices, &c.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>MUTTON.</h3> - -<p>Almost every large city has a particular -manner of cutting up, or, as it is -called, dressing the carcase. In London -this process is very simple, and as our -butchers have found that much skewering -back, doubling one part over another, -or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, tends -to spoil the meat and shorten the time it -would otherwise keep, they avoid all -such treatment entirely. The carcase -when flayed (which operation is performed -while yet warm), the sheep when -hung up -and the -head removed, -presents -the -profile -shown in -our cut; -the small -numerals -indicating -the parts or -joints into -which one-half -of the -animal is -cut. After -separating -the hind -from the -fore quarters, -with -eleven ribs -to the latter, -the -quarters -are usually -subdivided -in the manner -shown -in the -sketch, in -which the -several joints are defined by the intervening -lines and figures. <i>Hind quarter</i>: -No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin—the two, -when cut in one piece, being called -the saddle. <i>Fore quarter</i>: No. 3, the -shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 -being called, for distinction, the scrag, -which is generally afterwards separated -from 4, the lower and better joint; No. -6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, -so often served at public dinners and -special entertainments, comprises all the -leg and so much of the loin, short of the -ribs or lap, as is indicated on the upper -part of the carcase by a dotted line.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 257px;"> -<img src="images/illus-205.jpg" width="257" height="552" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING -THE SEVERAL JOINTS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Baked Minced.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of any joint of cold roast -mutton, 1 or 2 onions, 1 bunch of -savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, -2 blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, -1 teacupful of gravy, mashed potatoes. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mince an onion rather -fine, and fry it a light-brown colour; -add the herbs and mutton, both of -which should be also finely minced -and well mixed; season with pepper -and salt, and a little pounded mace or -nutmeg, and moisten with the above -proportion of gravy. Put a layer of -mashed potatoes at the bottom of a -dish, then the mutton, and then another -layer of potatoes, and bake for about -½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If there should be a large quantity -of meat, use 2 onions instead of 1.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Boiled Breast of, and -Caper Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Breast of mutton, bread-crumbs, -2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury -herbs (put a large proportion of -parsley), pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -off the superfluous fat; bone the -meat; sprinkle over a layer of bread-crumbs, -minced herbs, and seasoning; -roll, and bind it up firmly. Boil <i>gently</i> for -2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with -caper sauce, a little of which should be -poured over the meat. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, an excellent way to -cook a Breast of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Breast of mutton, 2 -onions, salt and pepper to taste, flour, -a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the mutton into pieces -about 2 inches square, and let it be -tolerably lean; put it into a stewpan, -with a little fat or butter, and fry it of a -nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, -slice the onions, and put it with the -herbs in the stewpan; pour in sufficient -water <i>just</i> to cover the meat, and simmer -the whole gently until the mutton is -tender. Take out the meat, strain, and -skim off all the fat from the gravy, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> -put both the meat and gravy back into -the stewpan; add about a quart of -young green peas, and let them boil -gently until done. 2 or 3 slices of bacon -added and stewed with the mutton give -additional flavour; and, to insure the -peas being a beautiful green colour, they -may be boiled in water separately, and -added to the stew at the moment of -serving. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from June to August.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Broiled, and Tomato -Sauce.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—A -few slices of cold mutton, tomato -sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut some nice slices -from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton; -season them with pepper and salt, and -broil over a clear fire. Make some -tomato sauce, pour it over the mutton, -and serve. This makes an excellent -dish, and must be served very hot. -<i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes to broil the -mutton. <i>Seasonable</i> in September and -October, when tomatoes are plentiful -and seasonable.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON BROTH, to Make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of the scrag end of -the neck of mutton, 1 onion, a bunch of -sweet herbs, ½ turnip, 3 pints of water, -pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the mutton into a stewpan; pour over -the water cold, and add the other ingredients. -When it boils, skim it very -carefully, cover the pan closely, and let -it simmer very gently for an hour; -strain it, let it cool, take off all the fat -from the surface, and warm up as much -as may be required, adding, if the -patient be allowed to take it, a teaspoonful -of minced parsley which has been -previously scalded. Pearl barley or rice -are very nice additions to mutton broth, -and should be boiled as long as the -other ingredients. When either of these -is added, the broth must not be strained, -but merely thoroughly skimmed. Plain -mutton broth without seasoning is made -by merely boiling the mutton, water, -and salt together, straining it, letting -the broth cool, skimming all the fat off, -and warming up as much as is required. -This preparation would be very tasteless -and insipid, but likely to agree with -very delicate stomachs, whereas the least -addition of other ingredients would have -the contrary effect. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make -from 1½ to 2 pints of broth. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Veal broth may be made in -the same manner; the knuckle of a leg -or shoulder is the part usually used for -this purpose. It is very good with the -addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, -or a few shank-bones.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON BROTH, to Make -Quickly.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 or 2 chops from a neck -of mutton, 1 pint of water, a small bunch -of sweet herbs, ¼ of an onion, pepper -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat -into small pieces; put it into a saucepan -with the bones, but no skin or fat; add -the other ingredients; cover the saucepan, -and bring the water quickly to boil. -Take the lid off, and continue the rapid -boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well -during the process; strain the broth -into a basin; if there should be any fat -left on the surface, remove it by laying a -piece of thin paper on the top; the -greasy particles will adhere to the paper, -and so free the preparation from them. -To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable -than broth served with a quantity -of fat floating on the top; to avoid this, -it is always better to allow it to get -thoroughly cool, the fat can then be so -easily removed. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes after -the water boils. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to make ½ pint of broth. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Haunch of, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>A deep cut should, in the first place, -be made quite down to the bone, across -the knuckle-end of the joint, along the -line 1 to 2. This will let the gravy -escape; and then it should be carved, in -not too thick slices, along the whole -length of the haunch, in the direction of -the line from 4 to 3.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 267px;"> -<img src="images/illus-206.jpg" width="267" height="83" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HAUNCH OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Leg of, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>This homely, but capital English joint, -is almost invariably served at table as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> -shown in the engraving. The carving -of it is not very difficult: the knife -should be carried sharply down in the -direction of the line from 1 to 2, and -slices taken from -either side, as the -guests may desire, -some liking -the knuckle-end, -as well done, and -others preferring -the more underdone -part. The -fat should be sought near the line 3 to 4. -Some connoisseurs are fond of having this -joint dished with the under-side uppermost, -so as to get at the finely-grained -meat lying under that part of the joint, -known as the Pope’s eye; but this is an -extravagant fashion, and one that will -hardly find favour in the eyes of many -economical British housewives and housekeepers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 189px;"> -<img src="images/illus-207a.jpg" width="189" height="114" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEG OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Loin of, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;"> -<img src="images/illus-207b.jpg" width="211" height="115" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LOIN OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - -<p>There is one point in connection with -carving a loin of mutton which includes -every other; that is, that the joint -should be thoroughly well jointed by the -butcher before -it is cooked. -This knack of -jointing requires -practice -and the proper -tools; and no -one but the -butcher is supposed -to have these. If the bones be -not well jointed, the carving of a loin of -mutton is not a gracious business; -whereas, if that has been attended to, -it is an easy and untroublesome task. -The knife should be inserted at fig. 1, -and after feeling your way between the -bones, it should be carried sharply in -the direction of the line 1 to 2. As -there are some people who prefer the -outside cut, while others do not like it, -the question as to their choice of this -should be asked.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Saddle of, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 212px;"> -<img src="images/illus-207c.jpg" width="212" height="116" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SADDLE OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - -<p>Although we have heard, at various -intervals, growlings expressed at the -inevitable “saddle of mutton” at the -dinner-parties of our middle classes, yet -we doubt whether any other joint is -better liked, when it has been well hung -and artistically cooked. There is a diversity -of opinion respecting the mode of -sending this joint to table; but it has -only reference -to whether or -no there shall -be any portion -of the tail, -or, if so, how -many joints of -the tail. Some -trim the tail -with a paper frill. The carving is not -difficult: it is usually cut in the direction -of the line from 2 to 1, quite down to -the bones, in evenly-sliced pieces. A -fashion, however, patronized by some, is -to carve it obliquely, in the direction of -the line from 4 to 3; in which case the -joint would be turned round the other -way, having the tail end on the right of -the carver.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Shoulder of, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 193px;"> -<img src="images/illus-207d.jpg" width="193" height="109" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SHOULDER OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - -<p>This is a joint not difficult to carve. -The knife should be drawn from the -outer edge of the shoulder in the direction -of the line from 1 to 2, until the -bone of the -shoulder is -reached. As -many slices as -can be carved -in this manner -should be -taken, and afterwards -the -meat lying on each side of the blade-bone -should be served, by carving in the -direction of 3 to 4 and 5 to 6. The uppermost -side of the shoulder being now -finished, the joint should be turned, and -slices taken off along its whole length. -There are some who prefer this under-side -of the shoulder for its juicy flesh, -although the grain of the meat is not so -fine as that on the other side.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON CHOPS, Broiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Loin of mutton, pepper -and salt, a small piece of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the chops from a well-hung tender -loin of mutton, remove a portion of the -fat, and trim them into a nice shape; -slightly beat and level them; place the -gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub the -bars with a little fat, and lay on the -chops. Whilst broiling, frequently turn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> -them, and in about 8 minutes they will -be done. Season with pepper and salt, -dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small -piece of butter on each chop, and serve -very hot and expeditiously. <i>Time.</i>—About -8 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 chop to each -person. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON-COLLOPS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few slices of a cold leg -or loin of mutton, salt and pepper to -taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small -bunch of savoury herbs minced very fine, -2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, ½ pint of gravy, 1 -tablespoonful of lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -some very thin slices from a leg or the -chump end of a loin of mutton; sprinkle -them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, -minced savoury herbs, and minced shalot; -fry them in butter, stir in a dessertspoonful -of flour, add the gravy and -lemon-juice, simmer very gently about -5 or 7 minutes, and serve immediately. -<i>Time.</i>—5 to 7 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Curried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of any joint of cold mutton, -2 onions, ¼ lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful -of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, salt to taste, ¼ pint of -stock or water. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the onions -in thin rings, and put them into a stewpan -with the butter, and fry of a light -brown; stir in the curry-powder, flour, -and salt, and mix all together. Cut the -meat into nice thin slices (if there is not -sufficient to do this, it may be minced), -and add it to the other ingredients; -when well browned, add the stock or -gravy, and stew gently for about ½ hour. -Serve in a dish with a border of boiled -rice, the same as for other curries. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON CUTLETS, with Mashed -Potatoes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 3 lbs. of the best -end of the neck of mutton, salt and pepper -to taste, mashed potatoes. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -a well-hung neck of mutton, saw -off about 3 inches of the top of the bones, -and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness. -Shape them by chopping off the -thick part of the chine-bone; beat them -flat with a cutlet-chopper, and scrape -quite clean, a portion of the top of the -bone. Broil them over a nice clear fire -for about 7 or 8 minutes, and turn them -frequently. Have ready some smoothly-mashed -white potatoes; place these in -the middle of the dish; when the cutlets -are done, season with pepper and -salt; arrange them round the potatoes, -with the thick end of the cutlets downwards, -and serve very hot and quickly. -<i>Time.</i>—7 or 8 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -for this quantity, 2<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 227px;"> -<img src="images/illus-208.jpg" width="227" height="109" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">MUTTON CUTLETS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Cutlets may be served in various -ways; with peas, tomatoes, onions, -sauce piquant, &c.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Braised Fillet of, with -French Beans.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The chump end of a loin -of mutton, buttered paper, French beans, -a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Roll -up the mutton in a piece of buttered -paper, roast it for 2 hours, and do not -allow it to acquire the least colour. Have -ready some French beans, boiled, and -drained on a sieve; remove the paper -from the mutton, glaze it; just heat up -the beans in the gravy, and lay them on -the dish with the meat over them. The -remainder of the gravy may be strained, -and sent to table in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Haricot.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of the middle or -best end of the neck of mutton, 3 carrots, -3 turnips, 3 onions, pepper and -salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup -or Harvey’s sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Trim off -some of the fat, cut the mutton into -rather thin chops, and put them into a -frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry -of a pale brown, but do not cook them -enough for eating. Cut the carrots and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> -turnips into dice, and the onions into -slices, and slightly fry them in the same -fat that the mutton was browned in, but -do not allow them to take any colour. -Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a -stewpan, then the vegetables, and pour -over them just sufficient boiling water to -cover the whole. Give the boil, skim -well, and then set the pan on the side of -the fire to simmer gently until the meat -is tender. Skim off every particle of fat, -add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and -a little ketchup, and serve. This dish -is very much better if made the day -before it is wanted for table, as the fat -can be so much more easily removed -when the gravy is cold. This should be -particularly attended to, as it is apt to be -rich and greasy if eaten the same day it -is made. It should be served in rather -a deep dish. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours to simmer -gently. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Haricot.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Breast or scrag of mutton, -flour, pepper, and salt to taste, 1 -large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury -herbs, 1 blade of mace, carrots and turnips, -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the mutton -into square pieces, and fry them a nice -colour; then dredge over them a little -flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt. -Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with -boiling water, adding the onion, stuck -with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. -Simmer gently till the meat is done, skim -off all the fat, and then add the carrots -and turnips, which should be previously -cut in dice and fried in a little sugar to -colour them. Let the whole simmer -again for 10 minutes; take out the onion -and bunch of herbs, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About -3 hours to simmer. <i>Average cost</i>, -6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Haricot.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold neck or loin of -mutton, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, ½ pint of good -gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls -of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of -mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, -1 head of celery. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cold -mutton into moderate-sized chops, and -take off the fat; slice the onions, and -fry them with the chops, in a little butter, -of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, -add the gravy, and let it stew gently -nearly an hour. In the mean time boil -the vegetables until <i>nearly</i> tender, slice -them, and add them to the mutton -about ¼ hour before it is to be served. -Season with pepper and salt, add the -ketchup and port wine, give one boil, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the cold meat, 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Hashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -shoulder or leg of mutton, 6 whole peppers, -6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury -herbs, ½ head of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of -butter, flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat in -nice even slices from the bones, trimming -off all superfluous fat and gristle; -chop the bones and fragments of the -joints, put them into a stewpan with the -pepper, spice, herbs, and celery; cover -with water, and simmer for 1 hour. -Slice and fry the onion of a nice pale-brown -colour, dredge in a little flour to -make it thick, and add this to the bones, -&c. Stew for ¼ hour, strain the gravy, -and let it cool; then skim off every particle -of fat, and put it, with the meat, -into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, -Harvey’s sauce, tomato sauce, or any -flavouring that may be preferred, and -let the meat gradually warm through, -but not boil, or it will harden. To hash -meat properly, it should be laid in cold -gravy, and only left on the fire just long -enough to warm through. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour to simmer the gravy. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Roast Haunch of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;"> -<img src="images/illus-209.jpg" width="291" height="106" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HAUNCH OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Haunch of mutton, a -little salt, flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Let this joint -hang as long as possible without becoming -tainted, and while hanging dust flour -over it, which keeps off the flies, and -prevents the air from getting to it. If<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> -not well hung, the joint, when it comes -to table, will do credit neither to the -butcher nor the cook, as it will not be -tender. Wash the outside well, lest it -should have a bad flavour from keeping; -then flour it and put it down to a nice -brisk fire, at some distance, so that it -may gradually warm through. Keep -continually basting, and about ½ hour -before it is served, draw it nearer to the -fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a little -fine salt over the meat, pour off the -dripping, add a little boiling water -slightly salted, and strain this over the -joint. Place a paper ruche on the bone, -and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a -tureen to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—About 4 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 to 10 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—In -best season from September to March.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Boiled Leg of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Mutton, water, salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—A leg of mutton for boiling -should not hang too long, as it will not -look a good colour when dressed. Cut -off the shank-bone, trim the knuckle, -and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge -it into sufficient boiling water to cover it; -let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to -the side of the fire, where it should remain -till the finger can be borne in the -water. Then place it sufficiently near -the fire, that the water may gently -simmer, and be very careful that it does -not boil fast, or the meat will be hard. -Skim well, add a little salt, and in about -2¼ hours after the water begins to simmer, -a moderate-sized leg of mutton will -be done. Serve with carrots and mashed -turnips, which may be boiled with the -meat, and send caper sauce to table with -it in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—A moderate-sized -leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2¼ hours after the -water boils; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A -moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or -8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> nearly all the -year, but not so good in June, July, and -August.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When meat is liked very <i>thoroughly</i> -cooked, allow more time than -stated above. The liquor this joint was -boiled in should be converted into soup.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Boned Leg of, Stuffed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A small leg of mutton, -weighing 6 or 7 lbs., forcemeat, 2 shalots -finely minced. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a forcemeat, -to which add 2 finely-minced shalots. -Bone the leg of mutton, without -spoiling the skin, and cut off a great deal -of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the -bone was taken with the forcemeat, and -sew it up underneath, to prevent its -falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, -and roast it before a nice clear -fire for about 2½ hours or rather longer; -remove the tape and send it to table with -a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, -as preferred. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours, or rather -longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Braised Leg of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 small leg of mutton, 4 -carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggot of savoury -herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to -taste of pepper and salt, a few slices of -bacon, a few veal trimmings, ½ pint of -gravy or water. <i>Mode.</i>—Line the bottom -of a braising-pan with a few slices -of bacon, put in the carrots, onions, -herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and over -these place the mutton. Cover the -whole with a few more slices of bacon -and the veal trimmings, pour in the -gravy or water, and stew very <i>gently</i> for -4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to -a glaze over a sharp fire, glaze the mutton -with it, and send it to table, placed -on a dish of white haricot beans boiled -tender, or garnished with glazed onions. -<i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Roast Leg of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 292px;"> -<img src="images/illus-210.jpg" width="292" height="135" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LEG OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Leg of mutton, a little -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—As mutton, when freshly -killed, is never tender, hang it almost as -long as it will keep; flour it, and put it -in a cool airy place for a few days, if the -weather will permit. Wash off the -flour, wipe it very dry, and cut off the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> -shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear -fire, dredge with flour, and keep continually -basting the whole time it is -cooking. About 20 minutes before -serving, draw it near the fire to get -nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little -salt, dish the meat, pour off the dripping, -add some boiling water slightly salted, -strain it over the joint, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—A -leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs., -about 2¼ or 2½ hours; one of 7 lbs., -about 2 hours, or rather less. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A moderate-sized -leg of mutton sufficient for 6 -or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time, -but not so good in June, July, and -August.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Roast Loin of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Loin of mutton, a little -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut and trim off the superfluous -fat, and see that the butcher joints -the meat properly, as thereby much -annoyance is saved to the carver, when -it comes to table. Have ready a nice -clear fire (it need not be a very wide -large one), put down the meat, dredge -with flour, and baste well until it is done. -Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, -and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—A loin -of mutton weighing 6 lbs., 1½ hour, or -rather longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d</i>, per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"> -<img src="images/illus-211.jpg" width="283" height="134" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LOIN OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Rolled loin of (very -Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 6 lbs. of a loin of -mutton, ½ teaspoonful of pepper, ¼ teaspoonful -of pounded allspice, ¼ teaspoonful -of mace, ¼ teaspoonful of nutmeg, -6 cloves, forcemeat, 1 glass of port wine, -2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. -<i>Mode.</i>—Hang the mutton till tender, -bone it, and sprinkle over it pepper, -mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the -above proportion, all of which must be -pounded very fine. Let it remain for a -day, then make a forcemeat, cover the -meat with it, and roll and bind it up -firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let -it grow cold, take off the fat, and put the -gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, -put it in the gravy, and stew it till perfectly -tender. Now take out the meat, -unbind it, add to the gravy wine and -ketchup as above, give one boil, and -pour over the meat. Serve with red-currant -jelly; and, if obtainable, a few -mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in -the gravy, will be found a great improvement. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour to bake the meat, -1½ hour to stew gently. <i>Average cost</i>, -4<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This joint will be found very -nice if rolled and stuffed, as here directed, -and plainly roasted. It should be well -basted, and served with a good gravy and -currant jelly.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Boiled Neck of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of the middle, or -best end of the neck of mutton; a little -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Trim off a portion of the -fat, should there be too much, and if it -is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone -should be sawn down, the ribs -stripped half-way down, and the ends of -the bones chopped off; this is, however, -not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient -<i>boiling</i> water to cover it; when it -boils, add a little salt and remove all the -scum. Draw the saucepan to the side of -the fire, and let the water get so cool that -the finger may be borne in it; then simmer -very <i>slowly</i> and gently until the meat -is done, which will be in about 1½ hour, -or rather more, reckoning from the time -that it begins to simmer. Serve with -turnips and caper sauce, and pour a little -of it over the meat. The turnips should -be boiled with the mutton; and when at -hand, a few carrots will also be found an -improvement. These, however, if very -large and thick, must be cut into long -thinnish pieces, or they will not be sufficiently -done by the time the mutton is -ready. Garnish the dish with carrots -and turnips, placed alternately round the -mutton. <i>Time.</i>—4 lbs. of the neck of -mutton, about 1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -8½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Ragoût of Cold Neck of.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a cold neck or loin of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> -mutton, 2 oz. of butter, a little flour, -2 onions sliced, ½ pint of water, 2 small -carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the mutton into small -chops, and trim off the greater portion -of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, -dredge in a little flour, add the -sliced onions, and keep stirring till -brown; then put in the meat. When -this is quite brown, add the water, and -the carrots and turnips, which should be -cut into very thin slices; season with -pepper and salt, and stew till quite tender, -which will be in about ¾ hour. When -in season, green peas may be substituted -for the carrots and turnips: they should -be piled in the centre of the dish, and -the chops laid round. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i>, with peas, from June to -August.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Roast Neck of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Neck of mutton; a little -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—For roasting, choose the -middle, or the best end, of the neck of -mutton, and if there is a very large proportion -of fat, trim off some of it, and -save it for making into suet puddings, -which will be found exceedingly good. -Let the bones be cut short, and see that -it is properly jointed before it is laid -down to the fire, as they will be more -easily separated when they come to table. -Place the joint at a nice brisk fire, dredge -it with flour, and keep continually basting -until done. A few minutes before -serving, draw it nearer the fire to acquire -a nice colour, sprinkle over it a little -salt, pour off the dripping, add a little -boiling water slightly salted; strain this -over the meat and serve. Red-currant -jelly may be sent to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—4 -lbs. of the neck of mutton, rather -more than 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 249px;"> -<img src="images/illus-212.jpg" width="249" height="140" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">NECK OF MUTTON.<br /> - -1-2. <i>Best end.</i> 2-3. <i>Scrag.</i></div> -</div> - - -<h3>MUTTON PIE.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of a cold leg, loin, or -neck of mutton, pepper and salt to taste, -2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful -of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful -of minced savoury herbs; when liked, -a little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 -potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy; crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cold mutton may be made into -very good pies if well seasoned and mixed -with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut -it into very thin slices; if the loin or -neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at -the bottom of the dish; season well with -pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs; -then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then -more mutton, and so on till the dish is -full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, -and bake for 1 hour. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of an underdone -leg of mutton may be converted into a -very good family pudding, by cutting -the meat into slices, and putting them -into a basin lined with a suet crust. It -should be seasoned well with pepper, -salt, and minced shalot, covered with a -crust, and boiled for about three hours.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of the neck or loin -of mutton, weighed after being boned; -2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, -2 teacupfuls of gravy or water, 2 tablespoonfuls -of minced parsley; when liked, -a little minced onion or shalot; puff -crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Bone the mutton, and -cut the meat into steaks all of the same -thickness, and leave but very little fat. -Cut up the kidneys, and arrange these -with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; -sprinkle over them the minced parsley -and a seasoning of pepper and salt; -pour in the gravy, and cover with a -tolerably good puff crust. Bake for 1½ -hour, or rather longer, should the pie be -very large, and let the oven be rather -brisk. A well-made suet crust may be -used instead of puff crust, and will be -found exceedingly good. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour, -or rather longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 2 lbs. of the chump -end of the loin of mutton, weighed after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> -being boned; pepper and salt to taste, -suet crust made with milk, in the proportion -of 6 oz. of suet to each pound -of flour; a very small quantity of minced -onion (this may be omitted when the -flavour is not liked). <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -meat into rather thin slices, and season -them with pepper and salt; line the -pudding-dish with crust; lay in the -meat, and nearly, but do not quite, fill -it up with water; when the flavour is -liked, add a small quantity of minced -onion; cover with crust, and proceed in -the same manner as directed in recipe for -<a href="#RUMP-STEAK_AND_KIDNEY_PUDDING">rump steak and kidney pudding</a>. <i>Time.</i>—About -3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all -the year, but more suitable in winter.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Roast Saddle of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Saddle of mutton; a little -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—To insure this joint being -tender, let it hang for ten days or a fortnight, -if the weather permits. Cut off -the tail and flaps, and trim away every -part that has not indisputable pretensions -to be eaten, and have the skin -taken off and skewered on again. Put it -down to a bright, clear fire, and, when -the joint has been cooking for an hour, -remove the skin and dredge it with -flour. It should not be placed too near -the fire, as the fat should not be in the -slightest degree burnt, but kept constantly -basted, both before and after -the skin is removed. Sprinkle some salt -over the joint; make a little gravy in the -dripping-pan; pour it over the meat, -which send to table with a tureen of -made gravy and red-currant jelly. <i>Time.</i>—A -saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs., -2½ hours; 14 lbs., 3¼ hours. When liked -underdone, allow rather less time. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A -moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. for -7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the -year; not so good when lamb is in full -season.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 293px;"> -<img src="images/illus-213a.jpg" width="293" height="154" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SADDLE OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>MUTTON, Roast Shoulder of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Shoulder of mutton; a -little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the joint down -to a bright, clear fire; flour it well, and -keep continually basting. About ¼ hour -before serving, draw it near the fire, that -the outside may acquire a nice brown -colour, but not sufficiently near to blacken -the fat. Sprinkle a little fine salt over -the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its -contents, pour in a little boiling water -slightly salted, and strain this over the -joint. Onion sauce, or stewed Spanish -onions, are usually sent to table with -this dish, and sometimes baked potatoes. -<i>Time.</i>—A shoulder of mutton weighing -6 or 7 lbs., 1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 287px;"> -<img src="images/illus-213b.jpg" width="287" height="147" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SHOULDER OF MUTTON.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Shoulder of mutton may be -dressed in a variety of ways; boiled, -and served with onion sauce; boned, -and stuffed with a good veal forcemeat; -or baked, with sliced potatoes in the -dripping-pan.</p> - - -<h3>MUTTON SOUP, Good.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A neck of mutton about -5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 onions, -a large bunch of sweet herbs, including -parsley; salt and pepper to taste; a -little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Lay the ingredients in a covered -pan before the fire, and let them remain -there the whole day, stirring occasionally. -The next day put the whole into a stewpan, -and place it on a brisk fire. When -it commences to boil, take the pan off -the fire, and put it on one side to simmer -until the meat is done. When ready for -use, take out the meat, dish it up with -carrots and turnips, and send it to table; -strain the soup, let it cool, skim off all -the fat, season and thicken it with a -tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; -flavour with a little sherry, simmer -for 5 minutes, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—15 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, including the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> -meat, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>NASTURTIUMS, Pickled (a very -good Substitute for Capers).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each pint of vinegar, -1 oz. of salt, 6 peppercorns, nasturtiums. -<i>Mode.</i>—Gather the nasturtium pods on a -dry day, and wipe them clean with a -cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with -vinegar, salt, and pepper, in the above -proportion. If you cannot find enough -ripe to fill a bottle, cork up what you -have got until you have some more fit; -they may be added from day to day. -Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin -the tops. They will be fit for use in 10 -or 12 months; and the best way is to -make them one season for the next. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Look for nasturtium-pods -from the end of July to the end of -August.</p> - - -<h3>NECTARINES, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of sugar -allow ¼ pint of water; nectarines. <i>Mode.</i>—Divide -the nectarines in two, take out -the stones, and make a strong syrup with -sugar and water in the above proportion. -Put in the nectarines, and boil them -until they have thoroughly imbibed the -sugar. Keep the fruit as whole as possible, -and turn it carefully into a pan. -The next day boil it again for a few minutes, -take out the nectarines, put them -into jars, boil the syrup quickly for five -minutes, pour it over the fruit, and, -when cold, cover the preserve down. -The syrup and preserve must be carefully -skimmed, or it will not be clear. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to boil the sugar and water; -20 minutes to boil the fruit the first time, -10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes -to boil the syrup. <i>Seasonable</i> in August -and September, but cheapest in September.</p> - - -<h3>NECTAR, Welsh.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, -2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 gallons of boiling -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the peel of the -lemons very thin, pour upon it the boiling -water, and, when cool, add the -strained juice of the lemons, the sugar, -and the raisins, stoned and chopped very -fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, stirring -it every day; then strain it through a -jelly-bag, and bottle it for present use. -<i>Time.</i>—4 or 5 days. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 2 gallons.</p> - - -<h3>NEGUS, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of port -wine allow 1 quart of boiling water, ¼ lb. -of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—As this beverage is more -usually drunk at children’s parties than -at any other, the wine need not be very -old or expensive for the purpose, a new -fruity wine answering very well for it. -Put the wine into a jug, rub some lumps -of sugar (equal to ¼ lb.) on the lemon-rind -until all the yellow part of the skin is -absorbed, then squeeze the juice, and -strain it. Add the sugar and lemon-juice -to the port-wine, with the grated -nutmeg; pour over it the boiling water, -cover the jug, and, when the beverage -has cooled a little, it will be fit for use. -Negus may also be made of sherry, or -any other sweet white wine, but is more -usually made of port than of any other -beverage. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 pint of -wine, with the other ingredients in proportion, -for a party of 9 or 10 children.</p> - - -<h3>NOVEMBER—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu10.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Thick Grouse Soup, -removed by -Crimped Cod and Oyster -Sauce. - -Baked Whitings. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Fried Smelts. - -Clear Ox-tail Soup, -removed by -Fillets of Turbot à la -Crême. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu10b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Poulet à la Marengo. - -Fillets of Leveret. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Ragoût of Lobster. - -Mushrooms sautés. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu10c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Haunch of Mutton. - -Cold Game Pie. - -Lark Pudding. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Roast Fowls. - -Boiled Ham. - -Boiled Turkey and Celery -Sauce. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu10d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Apple Tart. - -Partridges, -removed by -Plum-pudding. - -Shell-Fish. - -Wine Jelly. - -Pommes à la -Condé. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Vol-au-Vent -of Pears. - -Blancmange. - -Prawns. - -Snipes, -removed by -Charlotte glacée. - -Apricot Tartlets. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Hare soup; Julienne -soup; baked cod; soles à la Normandie. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Riz de veau aux tomates; lobster -patties; mutton cutlets and Soubise -sauce; croûtades of marrow aux fines -herbes. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast sirloin -of beef; braised goose; boiled fowls and -celery sauce; bacon-cheek, garnished -with sprouts. <i>Third Course.</i>—Wild ducks; -partridges; apples à la Portugaise; Bavarian -cream; apricot-jam sandwiches; -cheesecakes; Charlotte à la vanille; -plum-pudding; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Mulligatawny soup; -fried slices of codfish and oyster sauce; -eels en matelote. <i>Entrées.</i>—Broiled -pork cutlets and tomato sauce; tendrons -de veau à la jardinière. <i>Second Course.</i>—Boiled -leg of mutton and vegetables; -roast goose; cold game pie. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Snipes; teal; apple soufflé; -iced Charlotte; tartlets; champagne -jelly; coffee cream; mince pies; dessert -and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinners for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Oyster soup; crimped -cod and oyster sauce; fried perch and -Dutch sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Pigs’ feet à la -Béchamel; curried rabbit. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast -sucking-pig; boiled fowls and -oyster sauce; vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Jugged -hare; meringues à la crême; -apple custard; vol-au-vent of pears; -whipped cream; cabinet pudding; -dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Game soup; slices of -codfish and Dutch sauce; fried eels. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Kidneys à la Maître d’Hôtel; -oyster patties. <i>Second Course.</i>—Saddle -of mutton; boiled capon and rice; small -ham; lark pudding. <i>Third Course.</i>—Roast -hare; apple tart; pineapple -cream; clear jelly; cheesecakes; marrow -pudding; Nesselrode pudding; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>NOVEMBER, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. White soup. 2. Roast -haunch of mutton, haricot beans, potatoes. -3. Apple tart, ginger pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal -cutlets garnished with rolled bacon; cold -mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Roast fowls, garnished -with water-cresses; boiled bacon-cheek; -hashed mutton from remains of haunch. -2. Apple pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Boiled leg of pork, -carrots, parsnips, and pease-pudding; -fowl croquettes made with remainder of -cold fowl. 2. Baroness pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Cold pork and mashed -potatoes; roast partridges, bread sauce -and gravy. 2. The remainder of the -pudding cut into neat slices, and warmed -through, and served with sifted sugar -sprinkled over; apple fritters.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Roast hare, gravy, and -currant jelly; rump-steak and oyster-sauce; -vegetables. 2. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Jugged hare; small -mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Crimped cod and oyster -sauce. 2. Roast fowls, small boiled ham, -vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked -apple pudding, open jam tart.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. The remainder of cod -warmed in maître d’hôtel sauce. 2. -Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, -suet dumplings. 3. Baked bread-and-butter -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Pea-soup made from liquor -in which beef was boiled. 2. Cold -beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets -and tomato sauce. 3. Carrot pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted -butter. 2. Roast leg of pork, apple -sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with -Parmesan cheese.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Bubble-and-squeak from -remains of cold beef; curried pork. -2. Baked Semolina pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Roast leg of mutton, -stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. -Apple tart.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Hashed mutton; boiled -rabbit and onion sauce; vegetables. 2. -Damson pudding made with bottled -fruit.</p> - - -<h3>NOVEMBER, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, -gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike, soles, -tench, turbot, whiting.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, mutton, veal, doe -venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, -pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, -widgeons, wild-duck.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Hares, partridges, pheasants, -snipes, woodcocks.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, -celery, lettuces, late cucumbers, -onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, -sprouts—various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, -filberts, grapes, pears, walnuts.</p> - - -<h3>NOVEMBER—BILLS OF FARE -FOR A GAME DINNER.</h3> - -<div class="center"><b>Dinner for 30 persons.</b><br /> -<br /> -<i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu11.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Hare Soup. - -Purée of Grouse. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Pheasant Soup. - -Soup à la Reine. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu11b.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Fillets of Hare -en Chevreuil. - -Salmi of -Widgeon. - -Salmi of -Woodcock. - -Perdrix au Choux. - -Lark Pudding. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Game Patties. - -Curried Rabbits. - -Salmi of -Woodcock. - -Salmi of -Widgeon. - -Fillet of Pheasant -and Truffles. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu11c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Larded Pheasants. - -Leveret, larded and -stuffed. - -Cold Pheasant Pie -à la Perigord. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Hot raised Pie of -mixed Game. - -Grouse. - -Larded Partridges. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu11d.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Pintails. - -Quails. - -Snipes. - -Ortolans. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Golden -Plovers. - -Widgeon. - -Teal. - -Wild -Duck. - -Snipes. - -Woodcocks. -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entremets and Removes.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"> -<img src="images/menu11e.jpg" width="283" height="292" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Boudin à la Nesselrode. - -Apricot -Tart. - -Dantzic Jelly. - -Maids of -Honour. - -Vol-au-Vent -of Pears. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Gâteau -Génoise Glacé. - -Charlotte Russe. - -Maids of -Honour. - -Compôte of -Apples. - -Plum-pudding. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Dessert.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"> -<img src="images/menu11f.jpg" width="283" height="350" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Strawberry-Ice -Cream. - -Olives. - -Figs. - -Pineapples. - -Preserved -Cherries. - -Dried -Fruit. - -Grapes. - -Filberts. -Wafers. - -Pears. - -Walnuts. -Biscuits. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Ginger-Ice Cream. - -Orange-Water Ice. - -Apples. - -Dried -Fruit. - -Preserved -Cherries. - -Grapes. - -Pears. - -Figs. - -Olives. - -Lemon-Water Ice. -</p> - - -<h3>NOYEAU CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ oz. of isinglass, the -juice of 2 lemons, noyeau and pounded -sugar to taste, 1½ pint of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Dissolve -the isinglass in a little boiling -water, add the lemon-juice, and strain -this to the cream, putting in sufficient -noyeau and sugar to flavour and sweeten -the mixture nicely; whisk the cream -well, put it into an oiled mould, and set -the mould in ice or in a cool place; turn -it out, and garnish the dish to taste. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint and the -best isinglass, 4<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a -quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>NOYEAU, Home-made.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of bitter almonds, -1 oz. of sweet ditto, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, -the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish -whiskey or gin, 1 tablespoonful of clarified -honey, ½ pint of new milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -and pound the almonds, and -mix with them the sugar, which should -also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it -stand till quite cold; then mix all the -ingredients together, and let them remain -for 10 days, shaking them every -day. Filter the mixture through blotting-paper, -bottle off for use in small -bottles, and seal the corks down. This -will be found useful for flavouring many -sweet dishes. A tablespoonful of the -above noyeau, added to a pint of boiled -custard instead of brandy as given in our -recipe for <a href="#CUSTARDS_Boiled">custard</a>, makes an exceedingly -agreeable and delicate flavour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make -about 2½ pints of noyeau. <i>Seasonable.</i>—May -be made at any time.</p> - - -<h3>OCTOBER—BILLS OF FARE.</h3> - -<p>Dinner for 18 persons.</p> - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu12.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Mock-Turtle Soup, -removed by -Crimped Cod and Oyster -Sauce. - - -Soles à la Normandie. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Red Mullet. - -Julienne Soup, -removed by -John Dory and Dutch -Sauce. -</p> - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu12b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Sweetbreads and Tomato -Sauce. - -Oyster Patties. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Stewed Mushrooms. - -Fricandeau de Veau and -Celery Sauce. -</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu12c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Roast Saddle of -Mutton. - -Grouse Pie. - -Roast Goose. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Boiled Fowls and -Oyster Sauce. - -Ham. - -Larded Turkey. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu12d.jpg" width="285" height="285" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Custards. - -Pheasants, -removed by -Cabinet Pudding. - -Prawns. - -Italian Cream. - -Gâteau de -Pommes. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Compôte of -Plums. - -Lobster Salad. - -Peach Jelly. - -Apple Tart. - -Roast Hare, -removed by -Iced Pudding. -</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Carrot soup à la Crécy; -soup à la Reine; baked cod; stewed eels. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Riz de Veau and tomato -sauce; vol-au-vent of chicken; pork -cutlets and sauce Robert; grilled mushrooms. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Rump of beef -à la jardinière; roast goose; boiled fowls -and celery sauce; tongue, garnished; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Grouse; -pheasants; quince jelly; lemon cream; -apple tart; compôte of peaches; Nesselrode -pudding; cabinet pudding; scalloped -oysters; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Calf’s-head soup; -crimped cod and oyster sauce; stewed -eels. <i>Entrées.</i>—Stewed mutton kidneys; -curried sweetbreads. <i>Second Course.</i>—Boiled -leg of mutton, garnished with -carrots and turnips; roast goose. <i>Third -Course.</i>—Partridges; fruit jelly; Italian -cream; vol-au-vent of pears; apple tart; -cabinet pudding; dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinners for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Hare soup; broiled -cod à la Maître d’Hôtel. Haddocks and -egg sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Veal cutlets, garnished -with French beans; haricot -mutton. <i>Second Course.</i>—Roast haunch -of mutton; boiled capon and rice; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Pheasants; -punch jelly; blancmange; apples à la -Portugaise; Charlotte à la Vanille; marrow -pudding; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Mock-turtle soup; brill -and lobster sauce; fried whitings. <i>Entrées.</i>—Fowl -à la Béchamel; oyster patties. -<i>Second Course.</i>—Roast sucking-pig; -stewed rump of beef à la jardinière; -vegetables. <i>Third Course.</i>—Grouse; -Charlotte aux pommes; coffee cream; -cheesecakes; apricot tart; iced pudding; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>OCTOBER, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Roast sucking-pig, tomato -sauce and brain sauce; small boiled leg -of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and -carrots. 2. Damson tart, boiled batter -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup, made -from liquor that mutton was boiled in. -2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small -meat pie, French beans, and potatoes. -3. Pudding, pies.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Roast partridges, bread -sauce, and gravy; slices of mutton -warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. -Baked plum-pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Roast ribs of beef, -Yorkshire pudding, vegetable marrow, -and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted -butter. 2. Cold beef and salad; mutton -cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled -fowls and celery sauce; bacon-cheek, -garnished with greens; beef rissoles, -from remains of cold beef. 3. Baroness -pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Curried fowl, from remains -of cold ditto; dish of rice, rump-steak-and-kidney -pudding, vegetables. -2. Stewed pears and sponge-cakes.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Crimped cod and oyster -sauce. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, -brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. -Bullace pudding, baked custards in cups.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. The remains of codfish, -flaked, and warmed in a maître d’hôtel -sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal -cutlets and rolled bacon, French beans -and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange -and stewed damsons.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Roast hare, gravy, and -red-currant jelly; hashed mutton, vegetables. -2. Currant dumplings.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Jugged hare, from -remains of roast ditto; boiled knuckle of -veal and rice; boiled bacon cheek. 2. -Apple pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Roast leg of pork, apple -sauce, greens, and potatoes. 2. Rice -snowballs.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Slices of pork, broiled, -and tomato sauce, mashed potatoes; -roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. -2. Baked apple pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. -2. Ginger pudding.</p> - - -<h3>OCTOBER, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, -flounders, gudgeons, haddocks, lobsters, -mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, -soles, tench, turbot, whiting.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, mutton, pork, veal, -venison.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, -pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, -widgeons, wild ducks.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Black-cock, grouse, hares, -partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks, -doe venison.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Artichokes, beets, cabbages, -cauliflowers, carrots, celery, lettuces, -mushrooms, onions, potatoes, -sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable -marrows,—various herbs.</p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Apples, black and white bullaces, -damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, -pears, quinces, walnuts.</p> - - -<h3>OMELET.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of -salt, ½ saltspoonful of pepper, ¼ lb. of -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Break the eggs into a -basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat -them up with -the salt and -pepper until -extremely -light; then -add 2 oz. of -the butter broken into small pieces, and -stir this into the mixture. Put the other -2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it -quite hot, and, as soon as it begins to -bubble, whisk the eggs, &c., very briskly -for a minute or two, and pour them into -the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon one -way until the mixture thickens and becomes -firm, and when the whole is set, -fold the edges over, so that the omelet -assumes an oval form; and when it is -nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, -it is done. To take off the rawness on -the upper side, hold the pan before the -fire for a minute or two, and brown it -with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve -very expeditiously on a very hot dish, -and never cook until it is just wanted. -The flavour of this omelet may be very -much enhanced by adding minced parsley, -minced onion or eschalot, or grated -cheese, allowing 1 tablespoonful of the -former, and half the quantity of the -latter, to the above proportion of eggs. -Shrimps or oysters may also be added: -the latter should be scalded in their -liquor, and then bearded and cut into -small pieces. In making an omelet, be -particularly careful that it is not too thin, -and, to avoid this, do not make it in too -large a frying-pan, as the mixture would -then spread too much, and taste of the -outside. It should also not be greasy, -burnt, or too much done, and should be -cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole -of the substance may be heated without -drying up the outside. Omelets are -sometimes served with gravy; but <i>this -should never be poured over them</i>, but -served in a tureen, as the liquid causes -the omelet to become heavy and flat, -instead of eating light and soft. In -making the gravy, the flavour should -not overpower that of the omelet, and -should be thickened with arrowroot or -rice flour. <i>Time.</i>—With 6 eggs, in a -frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 227px;"> -<img src="images/illus-219.jpg" width="227" height="66" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OMELET.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>OMELET, The Cure’s, or -Omelette au Thon.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Take for 6 persons, the -roes of 2 carp;<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> bleach them, by putting -them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span> -slightly salted; a piece of fresh tunny the -size of a hen’s egg, to which add a small -shalot already chopped; hash up together -the roe and the tunny, so as to mix them -well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, -with a sufficient quantity of very -good butter: whip it up until the butter -is melted! This constitutes the specialty -of the omelet. Take a second piece of -butter, <i>à discrétion</i>, mix it with parsley -and herbs, place it in a long-shaped dish -destined to receive the omelet; squeeze -the juice of a lemon over it, and place it -on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the -fresher the better); throw up the sauté -of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to mix -all well together; then make your omelet -in the usual manner, endeavouring to -turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread -it carefully on the dish prepared for it, -and serve at once. This dish ought to -be reserved for recherché déjeûners, or -for assemblies where amateurs meet who -know how to eat well: washed down -with a good old wine, it will work -wonders.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The roe and the tunny must be -beaten up (sauté) without allowing them -to boil, to prevent their hardening, which -would prevent them mixing well with the -eggs. Your dish should be hollowed -towards the centre, to allow the gravy to -concentrate, that it may be helped with -a spoon. The dish ought to be slightly -heated, otherwise the cold china will -extract all the heat from the omelet.</p> - - -<h3>OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, -or Jam Omelet.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, -3 tablespoonfuls of apricot, strawberry, -or any jam that may be preferred. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make an omelet, only instead -of doubling it over, leave it flat in the -pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown -on one side, turn it carefully on to a hot -dish, spread over the middle of it the -jam, and fold the omelet over on each -side; sprinkle sifted sugar over, and -serve very quickly. A pretty dish of -small omelets may be made by dividing -the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying -them separately; they should then be -spread each one with a different kind of -preserve, and the omelets rolled over. -Always sprinkle sweet omelets with -sifted sugar before being sent to table. -<i>Time.</i>—4 to 6 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>OMELET, Bachelor’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of -butter, teaspoonful of flour, ½ teacupful -of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a thin cream of -the flour and milk; then beat up the -eggs, mix all together, and add a pinch -of salt and a few grains of cayenne. -Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, -and, when very hot, pour in the batter. -Let the pan remain for a few minutes -over a clear fire; then sprinkle upon the -omelet some chopped herbs and a few -shreds of onion; double the omelet dexterously, -and shake it out of the pan on -to a hot dish. A simple sweet omelet -can be made by the same process, substituting -sugar or preserve for the -chopped herbs. <i>Time.</i>—2 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>OMELET, Plain Sweet.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, -2 oz. of sifted sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Break the -eggs into a basin, omitting the whites -of 3; whisk them well, adding the sugar -and 2 oz. of the butter, which should -be broken into small pieces, and stir all -these ingredients well together. Make -the remainder of the butter quite hot in -a small frying-pan, and when it commences -to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. -Keep stirring them until they begin to -set; then turn the edges of the omelet -over, to make it an oval shape, and finish -cooking it. To brown the top, hold the -pan before the fire, or use a salamander, -and turn it carefully on to a <i>very hot</i> -dish; sprinkle sifted sugar over, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—From 4 to 6 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded -sugar, flavouring of vanilla, orange-flower -water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, -1 dessertspoonful of rice-flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate -the yolks from the whites of -the eggs, add to the former the sugar, -the rice-flour, and either of the above -flavourings that may be preferred, and -stir these ingredients well together. -Whip the whites of the eggs, mix them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span> -lightly with the batter, and put the -butter into a small frying-pan. As soon -as it begins to bubble, pour the batter -into it, and set the pan over a bright but -gentle fire; and when the omelet is set, -turn the edges over to make it an oval -shape, and slip it on to a silver dish, -which has been previously well buttered. -Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to -15 minutes; sprinkle finely-powdered -sugar over the soufflé, and <i>serve it immediately.</i> -<i>Time.</i>—About 4 minutes in the -pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ONION SAUCE, Brown.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 large onions, rather -more than ½ pint of good gravy, 2 oz. of -butter, salt and pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice -and fry the onions of a pale -brown in a stewpan, with the above -quantity of butter, keeping them well -stirred, that they do not get black. -When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, -and let them simmer gently until tender. -Now skim off every particle of fat, add -the seasoning, and rub the whole through -a tammy or sieve; put it back into the -saucepan to warm, and when it boils, -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 1 hour. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Where a high flavouring is -liked, add 1 tablespoonful of mushroom -ketchup, or a small quantity of port -wine.</p> - - -<h3>ONION SAUCE, French, or Soubise.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of Béchamel, -1 bay-leaf, seasoning to taste of pounded -mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small -piece of ham. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the onions -and cut them in halves; put them into -a stewpan, with just sufficient water to -cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham, -cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep -the lid closely shut, and simmer them -until tender. Take them out and drain -thoroughly; rub them through a tammy -or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) -with a wooden spoon, and put them to -½ pint of Béchamel; keep stirring over -the fire until it boils, when serve. If it -should require any more seasoning, add -it to taste. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour to boil the -onions. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> for this -quantity. <i>Sufficient</i> for a moderate-sized -dish.</p> - - -<h3>ONION SAUCE, White, for Boiled -Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of -Mutton, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized -ones, 1 pint of melted butter -made with milk, ½ teaspoonful of salt, or -rather more. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the onions -and put them into water to which a little -salt has been added, to preserve their -whiteness, and let them remain for ¼ hour. -Then put them into a stewpan, cover them -with water, and let them boil until tender, -and, if the onions should be very -strong, change the water after they have -been boiling for ¼ hour. Drain them -thoroughly, chop them, and rub them -through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint -of melted butter with milk, and when -that boils, put in the onions, with a -seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, -when it will be ready to serve. If these -directions are carefully attended to, this -onion sauce will be delicious. <i>Time.</i>—From -¾ to 1 hour, to boil the onions. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient</i> to -serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or -boiled rabbit. <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—To make this sauce very mild -and delicate, use Spanish onions, which -can be procured from the beginning of -September to Christmas. 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls -of cream added just before -serving, will be found to improve its -appearance very much. Small onions, -when very young, may be cooked whole, -and served in melted butter. A sieve or -tammy should be kept expressly for -onions; an old one answers the purpose, -as it is liable to retain the flavour and -smell, which of course would be excessively -disagreeable in delicate preparations.</p> - - -<h3>ONION SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 large onions, 2 oz. of -butter, salt and pepper to taste, ½ pint -of cream, 1 quart of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the onions, put them in the butter, -stir them occasionally, but do not let -them brown. When tender, put the stock -to them, and season; strain the soup, -and add the boiling cream. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>ONION SOUP, Cheap.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 middling-sized onions, -3 oz. of butter, a tablespoonful of rice-flour, -salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful -of powdered sugar, thickening -of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the onions small, put them -into the stewpan with the butter, and fry -them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly -with the water, add the onions, seasoning, -and sugar, and simmer till tender. -Thicken with butter and flour, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>ONIONS, Burnt, for Gravies.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of onions, ½ pint of -water, ½ lb. of moist sugar, 1/3 pint of -vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel and chop the -onions fine, and put them into a stewpan -(not tinned), with the water; let them -boil for 5 minutes, then add the sugar, -and simmer gently until the mixture -becomes nearly black and throws out -bubbles of smoke. Have ready the -above proportion of boiling vinegar, -strain the liquor gradually to it, and -keep stirring with a wooden spoon until -it is well incorporated. When cold, -bottle for use. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 1 -hour.</p> - - -<h3>ONIONS, Pickled (a very simple -Method, and exceedingly Good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pickling onions; to each -quart of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, -2 teaspoonfuls of whole black -pepper. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the onions -gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, -with the fingers, take off the thin outside -skin; then, with a silver knife (steel -should not be used, as it spoils the -colour of the onions), remove one more -skin, when the onion will look quite -clear. Have ready some very dry bottles -or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, -put them in. Pour over sufficient cold -vinegar to cover them, with pepper and -allspice in the above proportions, taking -care that each jar has its share of the -latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, -and put them in a dry place, and in -a fortnight they will be fit for use. This -is a most simple recipe and very delicious, -the onions being nice and crisp. -They should be eaten within 6 or 8 -months after being done, as the onions -are liable to become soft. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of July to the end of -August.</p> - - -<h3><b>ONIONS, Pickled.</b></h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 gallon of pickling -onions, salt and water, milk; to each ½ -gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, -¼ tablespoonful of cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, -1 oz. of whole black pepper, ¼ oz. -of whole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, ¼ oz. -of mace. <i>Mode.</i>—Gather the onions, -which should not be too small, when they -are quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, -but do not pare them; make a strong -solution of salt and water, into which put -the onions, and change this, morning and -night, for 3 days, and save the <i>last</i> brine -they were put in. Then take the outside -skin off, and put them into a tin saucepan -capable of holding them all, as they -are always better done together. Now -take equal quantities of milk and the last -salt and water the onions were in, and -pour this to them; to this add 2 large -spoonfuls of salt, put them over the fire, -and watch them very attentively. Keep -constantly turning the onions about with -a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom -to the top, and <i>vice versâ</i>; and let the -milk and water run through the holes of -the skimmer. Remember, the onions -must never boil, or, if they do, they will -be good for nothing; and they should be -quite transparent. Keep the onions -stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring -them, be particular not to break them. -Then have ready a pan with a colander, -into which turn the onions to drain, -covering them with a cloth to keep in the -steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 -or 3 times double; put the onions on it -when quite hot, and over them an old piece -of blanket; cover this closely over them, -to keep in the steam. Let them remain -till the next day, when they will be quite -cold, and look yellow and shrivelled; take -off the shrivelled skins, when they should -be as white as snow. Put them into a pan, -make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining -ingredients, boil all these up, and -pour hot over the onions in the pan. -Cover very closely to keep in all the -steam, and let them stand till the following -day, when they will be quite cold. -Put them into jars or bottles well bunged, -and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil -on the top of each jar or bottle. Tie -them down with bladder, and let them -stand in a cool place for a month or six<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> -weeks, when they will be fit for use. -They should be beautifully white, and -eat crisp, without the least softness, and -will keep good many months. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of July to the end of -August.</p> - - -<h3>ONIONS, Spanish, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 or 5 Spanish onions, -salt, and water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the onions, -with their skins on, into a saucepan of -boiling water slightly salted, and let -them boil quickly for an hour. Then -take them out, wipe them thoroughly, -wrap each one in a piece of paper -separately, and bake them in a moderate -oven for 2 hours, or longer, should the -onions be very large. They may be -served in their skins, and eaten with a -piece of cold butter and a seasoning of -pepper and salt; or they may be peeled, -and a good brown gravy poured over -them. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour to boil, 2 hours to -bake. <i>Average cost</i>, medium-sized, 2<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to January.</p> - - -<h3>ONIONS, Spanish, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Onions, vinegar; salt -and cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -onions in thin slices; put a layer of them -in the bottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt -and cayenne; then add another layer of -onions, and season as before. Proceeding -in this manner till the jar is full, pour in -sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and -the pickle will be fit for use in a month. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—May be had in England from -September to February.</p> - - -<h3>ONIONS, Spanish, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 -pint of good broth or gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -the onions, taking care not to cut -away too much of the tops or tails, or -they would then fall to pieces; put them -into a stewpan capable of holding them -at the bottom without piling them one on -the top of another; add the broth or -gravy, and simmer <i>very gently</i> until the -onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, -pour the gravy round, and serve. Instead -of using broth, Spanish onions may be -stewed with a large piece of butter: they -must be done very gradually over a slow -fire or hot-plate, and will produce plenty -of gravy. <i>Time.</i>—To stew in gravy, 2 -hours, or longer if very large. <i>Average -cost</i>, medium-sized, 2<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to January.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Stewed Spanish onions are a -favourite accompaniment to roast shoulder -of mutton.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE BRANDY. (Excellent.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every ½ gallon of -brandy allow ¾ pint of Seville orange-juice, -1¼ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—To bring out -the full flavour of the orange-peel, rub a -few lumps of the sugar on 2 or 3 unpared -oranges, and put these lumps to the -rest. Mix the brandy with the orange-juice, -strained, the rinds of 6 of the -oranges pared very thin, and the sugar. -Let all stand in a closely-covered jar for -about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a -day. When clear, it should be bottled -and closely corked for a year; it will -then be ready for use, but will keep any -length of time. This is a most excellent -stomachic when taken pure in small quantities; -or, as the strength of the brandy -is very little deteriorated by the other -ingredients, it may be diluted with -water. <i>Time.</i>—To be stirred every day -for 3 days. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to make 2 quarts. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in March.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE CREAM.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 279px;"> -<img src="images/illus-223.jpg" width="279" height="151" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OPEN MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large -oranges, 1 lemon, sugar to taste, water, -½ pint of good cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Squeeze -the juice from the oranges and lemon; -strain it, and put it into a saucepan -with the isinglass, and sufficient water -to make it in all 1½ pint. Rub the sugar -on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to -the other ingredients, and boil all together -for about 10 minutes. Strain -through a muslin bag, and, when cold, -beat up with it ½ pint of thick cream. -Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; -pour in the cream, and put it in a cool -place to set. If the weather is very cold,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> -1 oz. of isinglass will be found sufficient -for the above proportion of ingredients. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil the juice and -water. <i>Average cost</i>, with the best isinglass, -3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE CREAMS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful -of brandy, ¼ lb. of loaf sugar, -the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the rind of the Seville orange -until tender, and beat it in a mortar to -a pulp; add to it the brandy, the -strained juice of the orange, and the -sugar, and beat all together for about 10 -minutes, adding the well-beaten yolks of -eggs. Bring the cream to the boiling-point, -and pour it very gradually to the -other ingredients, and beat the mixture -till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, -place the cups in a deep dish of boiling -water, where let them remain till quite -cold. Take the cups out of the water, -wipe them, and garnish the tops of the -creams with candied orange-peel or preserved -chips. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> -per pint, 1<i>s.</i> 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 7 or -8 creams. <i>Seasonable</i> from November to -May.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—To render this dish more economical, -substitute milk for the cream, -but add a small pinch of isinglass to -make the creams firm.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For the batter, ½ lb. of -flour, ½ oz. of butter, ½ saltspoonful of -salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or -clarified dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a nice -light batter with the above proportion of -flour, butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient -milk to make it the proper consistency; -peel the oranges, remove as much of the -white skin as possible, and divide each -orange into eight pieces, without breaking -the thin skin, unless it be to remove -the pips; dip each piece of orange in the -batter. Have ready a pan of boiling -lard or clarified dripping; drop in the -oranges, and fry them a delicate brown -from 8 to 10 minutes. When done, lay -them on a piece of blotting-paper before -the fire, to drain away the greasy moisture, -and dish them on a white d’oyley; -sprinkle over them plenty of pounded -sugar, and serve quickly. <i>Time.</i>—8 to -10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes -to drain them. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from November to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, -Widgeon, Teal, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of white stock, -1 small onion, 3 or 4 strips of lemon or -orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at -hand, the juice of a Seville orange or -lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass -of port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the onion, -cut in slices, into a stewpan with the -stock, orange-peel, and basil, and let -them simmer very gently for ¼ hour or -rather longer, should the gravy not taste -sufficiently of the peel. Strain it off, -and add to the gravy the remaining -ingredients; let the whole heat through, -and, when on the point of boiling, serve -very hot in a tureen which should have a -cover to it. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether ½ hour. -<i>Sufficient</i> for a small tureen.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE JELLY.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 294px;"> -<img src="images/illus-224.jpg" width="294" height="173" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OPEN MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of water, 1½ to -2 oz. of isinglass, ½ lb. of loaf sugar, -1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China -oranges. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the water into a -saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and -the rind of 1 orange, and the same of -½ lemon, and stir these over the fire until -the isinglass is dissolved, and remove -the scum; then add to this the juice of -the Seville orange, the juice of the -lemon, and sufficient juice of China -oranges to make in all 1 pint: from 8 to -10 oranges will yield the desired quantity. -Stir all together over the fire until -it is just on the point of boiling; skim -well; then strain the jelly through a -very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when -nearly cold, put it into a mould previously -wetted, and, when quite set, -turn it out on a dish, and garnish it to -taste. To insure this jelly being clear,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> -the orange- and lemon-juice should be -well strained, and the isinglass clarified, -before they are added to the other ingredients, -and, to heighten the colour, a -few drops of prepared cochineal may be -added. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to boil without -the juice; 1 minute after it is added. -<i>Average cost</i>, with the best isinglass, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE MARMALADE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal weight of fine loaf -sugar and Seville oranges; to 12 oranges -allow 1 pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Let there -be an equal weight of loaf sugar and -Seville oranges, and allow the above -proportion of water to every dozen -oranges. Peel them carefully, remove a -little of the white pith, and boil the rinds -in water 2 hours, changing the water -three times to take off a little of the -bitter taste. Break the pulp into small -pieces, take out all the pips, and cut the -boiled rind into chips. Make a syrup -with the sugar and water; boil this well, -skim it, and, when clear, put in the pulp -and chips. Boil all together from 20 -minutes to ½ hour; pour it into pots, -and, when cold, cover down with bladders -or tissue-paper brushed over on -both sides with the white of an egg. -The juice and grated rind of 2 lemons to -every dozen of oranges, added with the -pulp and chips to the syrup, are a very -great improvement to this marmalade. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours to boil the orange-rinds; -10 minutes to boil the syrup; 20 minutes -to ½ hour to boil the marmalade. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -should be made in March or -April, as Seville oranges are then in -perfection.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE MARMALADE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal weight of Seville -oranges and sugar; to every lb. of sugar -allow ½ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Weigh -the sugar and oranges, score the skin -across, and take it off in quarters. Boil -these quarters in a muslin bag in water -until they are quite soft, and they can -be pierced easily with the head of a pin; -then cut them into chips about 1 inch -long, and as thin as possible. Should -there be a great deal of white stringy -pulp, remove it before cutting the rind -into chips. Split open the oranges, -scrape out the best part of the pulp, -with the juice, rejecting the white pith -and pips. Make a syrup with the sugar -and water; boil it until clear; then put -in the chips, pulp, and juice, and boil -the marmalade from 20 minutes to ½ hour, -removing all the scum as it rises. In -boiling the syrup, clear it carefully from -scum before the oranges are added to it. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours to boil the rinds, 10 -minutes the syrup, 20 minutes to ½ hour -the marmalade. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> -per lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in -March or April, when Seville oranges are -in perfection.</p> - -<p>ORANGE MARMALADE, an easy -way of Making.</p> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of pulp -allow 1½ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -some fine Seville oranges; put -them whole into a stewpan with sufficient -water to cover them, and stew them until -they become perfectly tender, changing -the water 2 or 3 times; drain them, take -off the rind, remove the pips from the -pulp, weigh it, and to every lb. allow -1½ of loaf sugar and ½ pint of the water -the oranges were last boiled in. Boil -the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; -put in the pulp, boil for another -10 minutes; then add the peel cut into -strips, and boil the marmalade for -another 10 minutes, which completes -the process. Pour it into jars; let it -cool; then cover down with bladders, or -tissue-paper brushed over on both sides -with the white of an egg. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours -to boil the oranges; altogether ½ hour to -boil the marmalade. <i>Average cost</i>, from -6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in March or April.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE MARMALADE, made -with Honey.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 1 quart of the juice -and pulp of Seville oranges allow 1 lb. of -the rind, 2 lbs. of honey. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -the oranges, and boil the rind in water -until tender, and cut it into strips. -Take away the pips from the juice and -pulp, and put it with the honey and -chips into a preserving-pan; boil all -together for about ½ hour, or until the -marmalade is of the proper consistency; -put it into pots, and, when cold, cover -down with bladders. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours to -boil the rind, ½ hour the marmalade.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span> -<i>Average cost</i>, from 7<i>d.</i> to 9<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in March or -April.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE MARMALADE, -Pounded.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Weight and ½ in sugar -to every lb. of oranges. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -some clear Seville oranges in 4 pieces, -put all the juice and pulp into a basin, -and take out the seeds and skins; boil -the rinds in hard water till tender, -changing the water 2 or 3 times while -boiling; drain them well, and pound them -in a mortar; then put them into a preserving-pan -with the juice and pulp, and -their weight and ½ of sugar; boil rather -more than ½ an hour. <i>Time.</i>—About 2 -hours to boil the rinds, ½ an hour the -marmalade.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of stale sponge -cake or bruised ratafias, 6 oranges, 1 pint -of milk, 6 eggs, ½ lb. of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Bruise -the sponge-cake or ratafias into -fine crumbs, and pour upon them the -milk, which should be boiling. Rub the -rinds of 2 of the oranges on sugar, and -add this, with the juice of the remainder, -to the other ingredients. Beat up the -eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste, -and put the mixture into a pie-dish previously -lined with puff-paste. Bake for -rather more than ½ hour; turn it out of -the dish, strew sifted sugar over, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from November to -May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE PUDDING, Seville.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 Seville oranges, 6 oz. -of fresh butter, 12 almonds, ½ lb. of -sifted sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 8 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the oranges and chop them -finely, taking out all the pips. Put the -butter, the almonds, blanched and -chopped, and the sugar, into a saucepan, -to which add the orange pulp and the -lemon-juice. Put it on a hot plate to -warm, mixing all together until the butter -is thoroughly melted. Turn the -mixture out, let it get cold, then add -the eggs, which should be well whipped. -Put all into a baking-dish, bordered with -puff paste, and bake from ½ hour to 40 -minutes, according to the heat of the -oven. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to 40 minutes. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE SALAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oranges, ¼ lb. of muscatel -raisins, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 4 -tablespoonfuls of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -5 of the oranges; divide them into slices -without breaking the pulp, and arrange -them on a glass dish. Stone the raisins, -mix them with the sugar and brandy, and -mingle them with the oranges. Squeeze -the juice of the other orange over the -whole, and the dish is ready for table. -A little pounded spice may be put in -when the flavour is liked; but this ingredient -must be added very sparingly. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from November to -May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGE WINE, a very Simple -and Easy Method of Making a -very Superior.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—90 Seville oranges, 32 -lbs. of lump sugar, water. <i>Mode.</i>—Break -up the sugar into small pieces, and -put it into a dry, sweet, 9-gallon cask, -placed in a cellar or other storehouse, -where it is intended to be kept. Have -ready close to the cask two large pans or -wooden keelers, into one of which put -the peel of the oranges pared quite thin, -and into the other the pulp after the -juice has been squeezed from it. Strain -the juice through a piece of double muslin, -and put into the cask with the sugar. -Then pour about 1½ gallon of cold -spring water on both the peels and the -pulp; let it stand for 24 hours, and then -strain it into the cask; add more water -to the peels and pulp when this is done, -and repeat the same process every day -for a week: it should take about a week -to fill up the cask. Be careful to apportion -the quantity as nearly as possible -to the seven days, and to stir the contents -of the cask each day. On the <i>third</i> day -after the cask is full—that is, the <i>tenth</i> -day after the commencement of making—the -cask may be securely bunged down. -This is a very simple and easy method, -and the wine made according to it will -be pronounced to be most excellent. -There is no troublesome boiling, and all -fermentation takes place in the cask. -When the above directions are attended -to, the wine cannot fail to be good. It -should be bottled in 8 or 9 months, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> -will be fit for use in a twelvemonth after -the time of making. Ginger wine may -be made in precisely the same manner, -only, with the 9-gallon cask for ginger -wine, 2 lbs. of the best whole ginger, -<i>bruised</i>, must be put with the sugar. It -will be found convenient to tie the ginger -loosely in a muslin bag. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -10 days to make it. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per gallon. <i>Sufficient</i> for 9 -gallons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this in -March, and bottle it in the following -January.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGES, Compôte of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 251px;"> -<img src="images/illus-227.jpg" width="251" height="83" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">COMPÔTE OF ORANGES.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of syrup, 6 oranges. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel the oranges, remove as -much of the white pith as possible, and -divide them into small pieces without -breaking the thin skin with which they -are surrounded. Make the syrup by -recipe, adding the rind of the orange cut -into thin narrow strips. When the syrup -has been well skimmed, and is quite -clear, put in the pieces of orange, and -simmer them for 5 minutes. Take them -out carefully with a spoon without -breaking them, and arrange them on a -glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling -it quickly until thick; let it cool a little, -pour it over the oranges, and, when -cold, they will be ready for table. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to boil the syrup; 5 -minutes to simmer the oranges; -5 minutes to reduce the syrup. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGES, a Pretty Dish of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 large oranges, ½ lb. of -loaf sugar, ¼ pint of water, ½ pint of -cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of -liquor, sugar to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -sugar and water into a saucepan, and -boil them until the sugar becomes brittle, -which may be ascertained by taking -up a small quantity in a spoon, and dipping -it in cold water; if the sugar is -sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. -Peel the oranges, remove as much of the -white pith as possible, and divide them -into nice-sized slices, without breaking -the thin white skin which surrounds -the juicy pulp. Place the pieces of -orange on small skewers, dip them into -the hot sugar, and arrange them in -layers round a plain mould, which should -be well oiled with the purest salad-oil. -The sides of the mould only should be -lined with the oranges, and the centre -left open for the cream. Let the sugar -become firm by cooling; turn the -oranges carefully out on a dish, and fill -the centre with whipped cream, flavoured -with any kind of liqueur, and sweetened -with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly -ornamental and nice dish for the -supper-table. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to boil -the sugar. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i>—<i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 mould. <i>Seasonable</i> from November -to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGES, Iced.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Oranges; to every lb. of -pounded loaf sugar allow the whites of 2 -eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Whisk the whites of the -eggs well, stir in the sugar, and beat -this mixture for ¼ hour. Skin the -oranges, remove as much of the white -pith as possible without injuring the -pulp of the fruit; pass a thread through -the centre of each orange, dip them -into the sugar, and tie them to a stick. -Place this stick across the oven, and let -the oranges remain until dry, when they -will have the appearance of balls of ice. -They make a pretty dessert or supper -dish. Care must be taken not to have -the oven too fierce, or the oranges would -scorch and acquire a brown colour, -which would entirely spoil their appearance. -<i>Time.</i>—From ½ to 1 hour to dry -in a moderate oven. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—½ lb. of sugar to ice -12 oranges. <i>Seasonable</i> from November -to May.</p> - - -<h3>ORANGES, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Oranges; to every lb. of -juice and pulp allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar; -to every pint of water ½ lb. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wholly grate or peel the oranges, -taking off only the thin outside portion -of the rind. Make a small incision where -the stalk is taken out, squeeze out as -much of the juice as can be obtained, -and preserve it in a basin with the pulp -that accompanies it. Put the oranges -into cold water; let them stand for 3 -days, changing the water twice; then -boil them in fresh water till they are -very tender, and put them to drain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> -Make a syrup with the above proportion -of sugar and water, sufficient to cover the -oranges; let them stand in it for 2 or 3 -days; then drain them well. Weigh the -juice and pulp, allow double their weight -of sugar, and boil them together until -the scum ceases to rise, which must all -be carefully removed; put in the -oranges, boil them for 10 minutes, place -them in jars, pour over them the syrup, -and, when cold, cover down. They will -be fit for use in a week. <i>Time.</i>—3 days -for the oranges to remain in water, 3 -days in the syrup; ½ hour to boil the -pulp, 10 minutes the oranges. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -preserve should be made in -February or March, when oranges are -plentiful.</p> - - -<h3>OX, The.</h3> - -<p>The manner in which a side of beef -is cut up in London is shown in the -engraving on this page. In the metropolis, -on account of the large number -of its population possessing the means to -indulge in the “best of everything,” the -demand for the most delicate joints of -meat is great, the price, at the same -time, being much higher for these than -for the other parts. The consequence is, -that in London the carcass is there divided -so as to obtain the greatest quantity -of meat on the most esteemed joints. -In many places, however, where, from -a greater equality in the social condition -and habits of the inhabitants, the demand -and prices for the different parts -of the carcasses are more equalized, -there is not the same reason for the -butcher to cut the best joints so large.</p> - -<p>The meat on those parts of the animal -in which the muscles are least called into -action is most tender and succulent; -as, for instance, along the back, from -the rump to the hinder part of the -shoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder, -and neck are the toughest, driest, and -least-esteemed.</p> - -<p>The names of the several joints in the -hind and fore quarters of a side of beef, -and the purposes for which they are -used, are as follows:—</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 384px;"> -<img src="images/illus-228.jpg" width="384" height="820" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">SIDE Of BEEF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL -JOINTS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Hind Quarter:</i>—</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> -<p>1. Sirloin,—the two sirloins, cut -together in one joint, form a -baron; this, when roasted, is -the famous national dish of Englishmen, -at entertainments, on -occasion of rejoicing.</p> - -<p>2. Rump,—the finest part for steaks.</p> - -<p>3. Aitchbone,—boiling piece.</p> - -<p>4. Buttock,—prime boiling piece.</p> - -<p>5. Mouse-round,—boiling or stewing.</p> - -<p>6. Hock,—stewing.</p> - -<p>7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat,—primest -boiling piece.</p> - -<p>8. Thin flank,—boiling.</p> -</div> - - -<p><i>Fore Quarter:</i>—</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p>9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib.—This -is considered the primest -roasting piece.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span></p> - -<p>10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib,—greatly -esteemed by housekeepers -as the most economical -joint for roasting.</p> - -<p>11. Two ribs, called the chuck-rib,—used -for second quality of -steaks.</p> - -<p>12. Leg-of-mutton piece,—the muscles -of the shoulder dissected -from the breast.</p> - -<p>13. Brisket, or breast,—used for -boiling, after being salted.</p> - -<p>14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece,—used -for soups, gravies, stocks, -pies, and mincing for sausages.</p> - -<p>15. Shin,—stewing.</p></div> - -<p>The following is a classification of the -qualities of meat, according to the several -joints of beef, when cut up in the -London manner.</p> - -<p><i>First class</i>—includes the sirloin, with -the kidney suet (1), the rump-steak -piece (2), the fore-rib (9).</p> - -<p><i>Second class</i>—The buttock (4), the -thick flank (7), the middle-rib (10).</p> - -<p><i>Third class</i>—The aitchbone (3), the -mouse-round (5), the thin flank (8), the -chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), -the brisket (13).</p> - -<p><i>Fourth class</i>—The neck, clod, and -sticking-piece (14).</p> - -<p><i>Fifth class</i>—The hock (6), the shin (15).</p> - - -<h3>OX-CHEEK SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—An ox-cheek, 2 oz. of -butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, -1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of -celery, 3 blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot -of savoury herbs, 1 bay leaf, a teaspoonful -of salt, half that of pepper, 1 -head of celery, browning, the crust of a -French roll, 5 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Lay -the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, -with the butter; break the bones -of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it -on the ham. Cut the vegetables small, -add them to the other ingredients, and -set the whole over a slow fire for ¼ of an -hour. Now put in the water, and simmer -gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; -take out the fleshy part of the cheek, -and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; -thicken with flour, put in a head of sliced -celery, and simmer till the celery is -tender. If not a good colour, use a little -browning. Cut the meat into small -square pieces, pour the soup over, and -serve with the crust of a French roll in -the tureen, A glass of sherry much improves -this soup. <i>Time.</i>—3 to 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 12 persons.</p> - - -<h3>OX-CHEEK, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 cheek, salt and water, -4 or 5 onions, butter and flour, 6 cloves, -3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head -of celery, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, -black pepper, and salt to taste, 1 -oz. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, -2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls -of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls -of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls -of Harvey’s sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the -cheek boned, and prepare it the day -before it is to be eaten, by cleaning and -putting it to soak all night in salt and -water. The next day, wipe it dry and -clean, and put it into a stewpan. Just -cover it with water, skim well when it -boils, and let it gently simmer till the -meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 -onions in a little butter and flour, and -put them into the gravy; add 2 whole -onions, each stuck with 3 cloves, 3 turnips -quartered, 2 carrots sliced, a bay-leaf, -1 head of celery, a bunch of herbs, -and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black -pepper, and salt. Let these stew till -perfectly tender; then take out the -cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at -table, skim and strain the gravy, and -thicken 1½ pint of it with butter and -flour in the above proportions. Add the -vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; put -in the pieces of cheek; let the whole -boil up, and serve quite hot. Send it to -table in a ragoût-dish. If the colour of -the gravy should not be very good, add -a tablespoonful of the browning. <i>Time.</i>—4 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>OX-TAIL, Broiled (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 tails, 1½ pint of stock, -salt and cayenne to taste, bread-crumbs, -1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Joint and cut up the -tails into convenient-sized pieces, and -put them into a stewpan, with the stock, -cayenne, and salt, and, if liked very -savoury, a bunch of sweet herbs. Let -them simmer gently for about 2½ hours; -then take them out, drain them, and let -them cool. Beat an egg upon a plate; -dip in each piece of tail, and, afterwards, -sprinkle them well with fine bread-crumbs; -broil them over a clear fire,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> -until of a brownish colour on both sides, -and serve with a good gravy, or any sauce -that may be preferred. <i>Time.</i>—About 2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, from 9<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, -according to the season. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—These may be more easily -prepared by putting the tails in a brisk -oven, after they have been dipped in -egg and bread-crumb; and, when brown, -they are done. They must be boiled the -same time as for broiling.</p> - - -<h3>OX-TAIL SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 ox-tails, 2 slices of -ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, -3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 -bunch of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 -whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a tablespoonful -of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of -ketchup, ½ glass of port wine, 3 quarts -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the tails, -separating them at the joints; wash -them, and put them in a stewpan, with -the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices, -and add them, with the peppercorns and -herbs. Put in ½ pint of water, and stir -it over a sharp fire till the juices are -drawn. Fill up the stewpan with the -water, and, when boiling, add the salt. -Skim well, and simmer very gently for -4 hours, or until the tails are tender. -Take them out, skim and strain the soup, -thicken with flour, and flavour with the -ketchup and port wine. Put back the -tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—4½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 10 persons.</p> - - -<h3>OX-TAILS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 -cloves, 1 blade of mace, ¼ teaspoonful -of whole black pepper, ¼ teaspoonful of -allspice, ½ a teaspoonful of salt, a small -bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of -butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of -lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom -ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Divide the tails -at the joints, wash, and put them into a -stewpan with sufficient water to cover -them, and set them on the fire; when -the water boils, remove the scum, and -add the onion cut into rings, the spice, -seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan -closely, and let the tails simmer very -gently until tender, which will be in -about 2½ hours. Take them out, make a -thickening of butter and flour, add it -to the gravy, and let it boil for ¼ hour. -Strain it through a sieve into a saucepan, -put back the tails, add the lemon-juice -and ketchup; let the whole just boil up, -and serve. Garnish with croûtons or sippets -of toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours -to stew the tails. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> to -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, according to the season. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTER, Forcemeat for Roast or -Boiled Turkey.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of bread-crumbs, -1½ oz. of chopped suet or butter, 1 faggot -of savoury herbs, ¼ saltspoonful of grated -nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, -18 oysters. <i>Mode.</i>—Grate the bread -very fine, and be careful that no large -lumps remain; put it into a basin with -the suet, which must be very finely -minced, or, when butter is used, that -must be cut up into small pieces. Add -the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, -and seasoning; mix all these well -together, until the ingredients are thoroughly -mingled. Open and beard the -oysters, chop them, but not too small, -and add them to the other ingredients. -Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, -work altogether, until it is smoothly -mixed. The turkey should not be stuffed -too full: if there should be too much -forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry them, -and use them as a garnish. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 turkey.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTER KETCHUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sufficient oysters to fill -a pint measure, 1 pint of sherry, 3 oz. -of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms -of pounded mace. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure the -oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to -fill a pint measure; save the liquor, and -scald the oysters in it with the sherry; -strain the oysters, and put them in a -mortar with the salt, cayenne, and -mace; pound the whole until reduced to -a pulp, then add it to the liquor in which -they were scalded; boil it again five -minutes, and skim well; rub the whole -through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle -and cork closely. The corks should be -sealed. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -April.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Cider may be substituted for -the sherry.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTER PATTIES (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. of -butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> -little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded -mace; cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald -the oysters in their own liquor, beard -them, and cut each one into 3 pieces. -Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge -in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the -strained oyster-liquor with the other -ingredients; put in the oysters, and let -them heat gradually, but not boil fast. -Make the patty-cases as directed for -lobster patties, fill with the oyster mixture, -and replace the covers. <i>Time.</i>—2 -minutes for the oysters to simmer in the -mixture. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -patty-cases, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from -September to April.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with -Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 dozen oysters, ½ pint -of melted butter, made with milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Open -the oysters carefully, and save -their liquor; strain it into a clean -saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the -oysters, and let them just come to the -boiling-point, when they should look -plump. Take them off the fire immediately, -and put the whole into a basin. -Strain the liquor from them, mix with it -sufficient melted butter made with milk -to make ½ pint altogether. When this -is ready and very smooth, put in the -oysters, which should be previously -bearded, if you wish the sauce to be -really nice. Set it by the side of the -fire to get thoroughly hot, <i>but do not -allow it to boil</i>, or the oysters will immediately -harden. Using cream instead of -milk makes this sauce extremely delicious. -When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne -or anchovy sauce; but, as we have -before stated, a plain sauce <i>should</i> be plain, -and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured -essences; therefore we recommend -that the above directions be implicitly -followed, and no seasoning added. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 persons. Never allow fewer -than 6 oysters to 1 person, unless the -party is very large. <i>Seasonable</i> from -September to April.</p> - -<p>A more economical sauce may be -made by using a smaller quantity of -oysters, and not bearding them before -they are added to the sauce: this may -answer the purpose, but we cannot -undertake to recommend it as a mode -for making this delicious adjunct to -fish, &c.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTER SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 dozen of oysters, 2 -quarts of white stock, ½ pint of cream, -2 oz. of butter, 1½ oz. of flour; salt, -cayenne, and mace to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald -the oysters in their own liquor; -take them out, beard them, and put -them in a tureen. Take a pint of the -stock, put in the beards and the liquor, -which must be carefully strained, and -simmer for ½ an hour. Take it off the -fire, strain it again, and add the remainder -of the stock, with the seasoning and -mace. Bring it to a boil, add the thickening -of butter and flour, simmer for 5 -minutes, stir in the boiling cream, pour -it over the oysters, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to April. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This soup can be made less -rich by using milk instead of cream, and -thickening with arrowroot instead of -butter and flour.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTER SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 quarts of good mutton -broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, -1 oz. of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Beard the oysters, -and scald them in their own liquor; -then add it, well strained, to the broth; -thicken with the butter and flour, and -simmer for ¼ of an hour. Put in the -oysters, stir well, but do not let it boil, -and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to April. <i>Sufficient</i> for -8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. -butter, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, a -little chopped lemon-peel, ½ teaspoonful -of chopped parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the -oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, -and drain them; fry them with the -butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; -lay them on a dish, and garnish with -fried potatoes, toasted sippets, and parsley. -This is a delicious delicacy, and -is a favourite Italian dish. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -April. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS Fried in Batter.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of oysters, 2 eggs, -½ pint of milk, sufficient flour to make -the batter; pepper and salt to taste;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span> -when liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard. -<i>Mode.</i>—Scald the oysters in their own -liquor, beard them, and lay them on a -cloth to drain thoroughly. Break the -eggs into a basin, mix the flour with -them, add the milk gradually, with -nutmeg and seasoning, and put the -oysters in the batter. Make some lard -hot in a deep frying-pan, put in the -oysters, one at a time; when done, take -them up with a sharp-pointed skewer, -and dish them on a napkin. Fried -oysters are frequently used for garnishing -boiled fish, and then a few bread-crumbs -should be added to the flour. <i>Time.</i>—5 -or 6 minutes. <i>Average cost</i> for this -quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to April. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS, to Keep.</h3> - -<p>Put them in a tub, and cover them -with salt and water. Let them remain -for 12 hours, when they are to be taken -out, and allowed to stand for another -12 hours without water. If left without -water every alternate 12 hours, they will -be much better than if constantly kept -in it. Never put the same water twice -to them.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—100 oysters; to each -½ pint of vinegar, 1 blade of pounded -mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black -peppercorns. <i>Mode.</i>—Get the oysters -in good condition, open them, place -them in a saucepan, and let them -simmer in their own liquor for about -10 minutes very gently; then take -them out one by one, and place -them in a jar, and cover them, when -cold, with a pickle made as follows:—Measure -the oyster-liquor; add -to it the same quantity of vinegar, with -mace, lemon-peel, and pepper in the -above proportion, and boil it for 5 minutes; -when cold, pour over the oysters, -and tie them down very closely, as contact -with the air spoils them. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to April.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Put this pickle away in small -jars; because, directly one is opened, -its contents should immediately be eaten, -as they soon spoil. The pickle should -not be kept more than 2 or 3 months.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS, Scalloped.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. -butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of white -stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper -and salt to taste; bread-crumbs, oiled -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald the oysters in -their own liquor, take them out, beard -them, and strain the liquor free from -grit. Put 1 oz. of butter into a stewpan; -when melted, dredge in sufficient flour -to dry it up; add the stock, cream, and -strained liquor, and give one boil. Put -in the oysters and seasoning; let them -gradually heat through, but not boil. -Have ready the scallop-shells buttered; -lay in the oysters, and as much of the -liquid as they will hold; cover them -over with bread-crumbs, over which -drop a little oiled butter. Brown them -in the oven, or before the fire, and serve -quickly, and very hot. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, for this -quantity, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS, Scalloped.</h3> - -<p>Prepare the oysters as in the preceding -recipe, and put them in a scallop-shell -or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle -over a few bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, -and grated nutmeg; place small pieces -of butter over, and bake before the fire -in a Dutch oven. Put sufficient bread-crumbs -on the top to make a smooth -surface, as the oysters should not be -seen. <i>Time.</i>—About ¼ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to April.</p> - - -<h3>OYSTERS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. -of butter, flour, 1/3 pint of cream; cayenne -and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded -mace. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald the oysters in their -own liquor, take them out, beard them, -and strain the liquor; put the butter -into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour -to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and -mace, and stir it over a sharp fire with a -wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, -add the cream, oysters, and seasoning. -Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, but -not longer, or the oysters would harden. -Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with -croûtons, or toasted sippets of bread. -A small piece of lemon-peel boiled with -the oyster-liquor, and taken out before -the cream is added, will be found an -improvement. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 15 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -April. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>PANCAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Eggs, flour, milk; to -every egg allow 1 oz. of flour, about 1 -gill of milk, ⅛ saltspoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Ascertain -that the eggs are fresh; -break each one separately in a cup; -whisk them well, put them into a basin, -with the flour, salt, and a few drops of -milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly -<i>smooth</i> batter; then add by degrees the -remainder of the milk. The proportion -of this latter ingredient must be regulated -by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.; -but the batter, when ready for frying, -should be of the consistency of thick -cream. Place a small frying-pan on the -fire to get -hot; let it -be delicately -clean, -or the -pancakes will -stick, and, -when quite hot, put into it a small -piece of butter, allowing about ½ -oz. to each pancake. When it is melted, -pour in the batter, about ½ teacupful to -a pan 5 inches in diameter, and fry it for -about 4 minutes, or until it is nicely -brown on one side. By only pouring in -a small quantity of batter, and so making -the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning -them (an operation rather difficult to -unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the -pancake is done, sprinkle over it some -pounded sugar, roll it up in the pan, and -take it out with a large slice, and place -it on a dish before the fire. Proceed in -this manner until sufficient are cooked -for a dish; then send them quickly to -table, and continue to send in a further -quantity, as pancakes are never good -unless eaten almost immediately they -come from the frying-pan. The batter -may be flavoured with a little grated -lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have -preserve rolled in them instead of sugar. -Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to -table with them. To render the pancakes -very light, the yolks and whites -of the eggs should be beaten separately, -and the whites added the last thing to -the batter before frying. <i>Time.</i>—From -4 to 5 minutes for a pancake that does -not require turning; from 6 to 8 minutes -for a thicker one. <i>Average cost</i> for 3 -persons, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 3 eggs, -with the other ingredients in proportion, -for 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time, -but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"> -<img src="images/illus-233.jpg" width="237" height="83" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PANCAKES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PANCAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, -¼ lb. of loaf sugar, 1 glass of sherry, ½ -teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Ascertain that the eggs are extremely -fresh, beat them well, strain and -mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, -wine, nutmeg, and as much flour as will -make the batter nearly as thick as that -for ordinary pancakes. Make the frying-pan -hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour -in sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, -and fry it for about 5 minutes. -Dish the pancakes piled one above the -other, strew sifted sugar between each, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, -2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 8 pancakes. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time, but specially -served on Shrove Tuesday.</p> - - -<h3>PANCAKES, French.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, -2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2 oz. of flour, ½ pint -of new milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the eggs -thoroughly, and put them into a basin -with the butter, which should be beaten -to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, -and when these ingredients are well -mixed, add the milk; keep stirring and -beating the mixture for a few minutes; -put it on buttered plates, and bake in a -quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with -a cut lemon and sifted sugar, or pile the -pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of -preserve or marmalade between each. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PANCAKES, Snow.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 tablespoonfuls of flour, -1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of snow, about -½ pint of new milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the -flour with the milk by degrees, add the -egg well beaten, and just before frying, -the snow, it should then be all beaten up -together quickly, and put into the frying-pan -immediately. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 pancakes.</p> - - -<h3>PAN KAIL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of cabbage, or -Savoy greens; ¼ lb. of butter or dripping, -salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for -thickening, 2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the cabbage very fine, thicken the -water with oatmeal, put in the cabbage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span> -and butter, or dripping; season and -simmer for 1½ hour. It can be made -sooner by blanching and mashing the -greens, adding any good liquor that a -joint has been boiled in, and then further -thicken with bread or pounded biscuit. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, but more -suitable in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to -serve with Calf’s Head, Boiled -Fowls, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 tablespoonfuls of -minced parsley, ½ pint of melted butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put into a saucepan a small -quantity of water, slightly salted, and -when it boils, throw in a good bunch of -parsley which has been previously -washed and tied together in a bunch; -let it boil for 5 minutes, drain it, mince -the leaves <i>very fine</i>, and put the above -quantity in a tureen; pour over it ½ pint -of smoothly-made melted butter; stir -once, that the ingredients may be -thoroughly mixed, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes to boil the parsley. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 large fowl; -allow rather more for a pair. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PARSLEY, Fried, for Garnishing.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Parsley, hot lard or clarified -dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Gather some -young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it -thoroughly in a cloth; put it into the -wire basket of which we have given an -engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or -dripping for a minute or two. Directly -it is done, lift out the basket, and let it -stand before the fire, that the parsley -may become thoroughly crisp; and the -quicker it is fried the better. Should -the kitchen not be furnished with the -above article, throw the parsley into the -frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out -with a slice, dry it before the fire, and -when thoroughly crisp it will be ready -for use.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 319px;"> -<img src="images/illus-234.jpg" width="319" height="122" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">WIRE BASKET.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wire Basket.</span>—For this recipe a wire -basket, as shown in the annexed engraving, -will be found very useful. It is very -light and handy, and may be used for -other similar purposes besides that just -described.</p> - - -<h3>PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring -various Dishes.</h3> - -<p>Procure some nice young parsley; -wash it and dry it thoroughly in a cloth; -pound the leaves in a mortar till all the -juice is extracted, and put the juice in a -teacup or small jar; place this in a -saucepan of boiling water, and warm it -on the <i>bain-marie</i> principle just long -enough to take off its rawness; let it -drain, and it will be ready for colouring.</p> - -<p><i>Substitute for.</i>—Sometimes in the -middle of winter parsley-leaves are not -to be had, when the following will be -found an excellent substitute:—Tie up -a little parsley-seed in a small piece of -muslin, and boil it for 10 minutes in a -small quantity of water; use this water -to make the melted butter with, and -throw into it a little boiled spinach, -minced rather fine, which will have an -appearance similar to that of parsley.</p> - - -<h3>PARSLEY, to Preserve through the -Winter.</h3> - -<p>Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, -and wash it perfectly free from grit -and dirt; put it into boiling water which -has been slightly salted and well skimmed, -and then let it boil for 2 or 3 minutes; -take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a -sieve in front of the fire, when it should -be dried as expeditiously as possible. -Store it away in a very dry place in -bottles, and when wanted for use pour -over it a little warm water, and let it -stand for about 5 minutes. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -may be done at any time between -June and October.</p> - - -<h3>PARSNIP SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of sliced parsnips, -2 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, -1 quart of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the parsnips -into the stewpan with the butter, -which has been previously melted, and -simmer them till quite tender. Then -add nearly a pint of stock, and boil together -for half an hour. Pass all through -a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder -of the stock. Season, boil, and serve<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> -immediately. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from -October to April. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons.</p> - - -<h3>PARSNIPS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Parsnips; to each ½ gallon -of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the -parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and -with the point of the knife remove any -black specks about them, and, should -they be very large, cut the thick part -into quarters. Put them into a saucepan -of boiling water salted in the above -proportion, boil them rapidly until tender, -which may be ascertained by thrusting a -fork in them; take them up, drain them, -and serve in a vegetable-dish. This -vegetable is usually served with salt fish, -boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent -to table with the latter, a few should be -placed alternately with carrots round the -dish as a garnish. <i>Time.</i>—Large parsnips, -1 to 1½ hour; small ones, ½ to 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 for each person. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to May.</p> - - -<h3>PARTRIDGE, Broiled (a Luncheon, -Breakfast, or Supper Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 partridges, salt and -cayenne to taste, a small piece of butter, -brown gravy or mushroom sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Pluck, -draw, and cut the partridges in -half, and wipe the inside thoroughly -with a damp cloth. Season them with -salt and cayenne, broil them over a very -clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; -rub a small piece of butter over each -half, and send them to table with brown -gravy or mushroom sauce. <i>Time.</i>—About -¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to -2<i>s.</i> a brace. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or four persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of September -to the beginning of February.</p> - - -<h3>PARTRIDGE PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 partridges, pepper and -salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced -parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), -¾ lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of -ham, ½ pint of stock, puff paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Line -a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; -over that place a slice of ham and a seasoning -of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, -and wipe the partridges; cut off the legs -at the first joint, and season them inside -with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a -small piece of butter; place them in the -dish, and pour over the stock; line the -edges of the dish with puff paste, cover with -the same, brush it over with the yolk of an -egg, and bake for ¾ to 1 hour. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> -a brace. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of September to -the beginning of February.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Should the partridges be very -large, split them in half, they will then -lie in the dish more compactly. When -at hand, a few mushrooms should always -be added.</p> - - -<h3>PARTRIDGE, Potted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Partridges; seasoning -to taste of mace, allspice, white pepper, -and salt; butter, coarse paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pluck -and draw the birds, and wipe -them inside with a damp cloth. Pound -well some mace, allspice, white pepper, -and salt; mix together, and rub every -part of the partridges with this. Pack -the birds as closely as possible in a -baking-pan, with plenty of butter over -them, and cover with a coarse flour and -water crust. Tie a paper over this, and -bake for rather more than 1½ hour; let -the birds get cold, then cut them into -pieces for keeping, pack them closely -into a large potting-pot, and cover with -clarified butter. This should be kept in -a cool dry place. The butter used for -potted things will answer for basting, or -for paste for meat pies. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of September to -the beginning of February.</p> - - -<h3>PARTRIDGE, Roast.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 251px;"> -<img src="images/illus-235.jpg" width="251" height="90" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST PARTRIDGE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Partridge; butter. -<i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Choose young -birds, with dark-coloured bills and -yellowish legs, and let them hang a few -days, or there will be no flavour to the -flesh, nor will it be tender. The time -they should be kept entirely depends on -the taste of those for whom they are -intended, as what some persons would -consider delicious would be to others<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span> -disgusting and offensive. They may be -trussed with or without the head, the -latter mode being now considered -the most fashionable. Pluck, draw, -and wipe the partridge carefully -inside and out; cut off the head, leaving -sufficient skin on the neck to skewer -back; bring the legs close to the breast, -between it and the side-bones, and pass -a skewer through the pinions and the -thick part of the thighs. When the head -is left on, it should be brought round -and fixed on to the point of the skewer. -<i>Mode.</i>—When the bird is firmly and -plumply trussed, roast it before a nice -bright fire; keep it well basted, and a -few minutes before serving, flour and -froth it well. Dish it, and serve with -gravy and bread sauce, and send to table -hot and quickly. A little of the gravy -should be poured over the bird. <i>Time.</i>—25 -to 35 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -to 2<i>s.</i> a brace. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 for a dish. -<i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of September to -the beginning of February.</p> - - -<h3>PARTRIDGE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 partridges, 3 slices of -lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1 head of -celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut -into any fanciful shapes, 1 small lump of -sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to -taste, 2 quarts of medium stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the partridges into pieces, and -braise them in the butter and ham until -quite tender; then take out the legs, -wings, and breast, and set them by. -Keep the backs and other trimmings in -the braise, and add the onions and -celery; any remains of cold game can be -put in, and 3 pints of stock. Simmer -slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the -fat off as clean as possible; put in the -pieces that were taken out, give it one -boil, and skim again to have it quite -clear, and add the sugar and seasoning. -Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in -1 pint of stock; when quite tender, put -them to the partridges, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> or 1<i>s.</i> -6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to February. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The meat of the partridges -may be pounded with a crumb of a -French roll, and worked with the soup -through a sieve. Serve with stewed -celery cut in slices, and put in the -tureen.</p> - - -<h3>PARTRIDGES, to Carve.</h3> -<div class="figleft" style="width: 214px;"> -<img src="images/illus-236.jpg" width="214" height="205" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST PARTRIDGE.</div> -</div> -<p>There are several ways of carving this -most familiar game bird. The more -usual and summary -mode is to -carry the knife -sharply along -the top of the -breastbone of -the bird, and cut -it quite through, -thus dividing it -into two precisely -equal and -similar parts, in -the same manner -as carving a pigeon. Another plan is to -cut it into three pieces; viz., by severing -a small wing and leg on either side -from the body, by following the line -1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus -making 2 helpings, when the breast will -remain for a third plate. The most -elegant manner is that of thrusting back -the body from the legs, and then cutting -through the breast in the direction shown -by the line 1 to 2: this plan will give 4 -or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce -should be served to each guest.</p> - - - - -<h3>PARTRIDGES, Hashed, or Salmi -de Perdrix.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 young partridges, 3 -shallots, a slice of lean ham, 1 carrot, 3 -or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury -herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole peppers, ¾ pint -of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, -a small lump of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—After -the partridges are plucked and drawn, -roast them rather underdone, and cover -them with paper, as they should not be -browned; cut them into joints, take off -the skin from the wings, legs, and -breasts; put these into a stewpan, cover -them up, and set by until the gravy is -ready. Cut a slice of ham into small -pieces, and put them, with the carrots -sliced, the shallots, mushrooms, herbs, -cloves, and pepper, into a stewpan; fry -them lightly in a little butter, pour in -the stock, add the bones and trimming -from the partridges, and simmer for ¼ -hour. Strain the gravy, let it cool, and -skim off every particle of fat; put it to -the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass -of sherry or Madeira and a small lump -of sugar, let all gradually warm through -by the side of the fire, and when on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> -point of boiling, serve, and garnish the -dish with croûtons. The remains of -roast partridge answer very well dressed -in this way, although not so good as -when the birds are in the first instance -only half-roasted. This recipe is equally -suitable for pheasants, moorgame, &c.; -but care must be taken always to skin -the joints. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 1 hour. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—2 or 3 partridges for an -entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of -September to the beginning of February.</p> - - -<h3><a id="PASTE_Common"></a>PASTE, Common, for Family Pies.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1¼ lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -butter, rather more than ½ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the butter lightly into the -flour, and mix it to a smooth paste with -the water; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and -it will be ready for use. This paste may -be converted into an excellent short -crust for sweet tart by adding to the -flour, after the butter is rubbed in, 2 -tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sugar. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3><a id="PASTE_Puff"></a>PASTE, Puff, French, or Feuilletage -(Founded on M. Ude’s -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal quantities of flour -and butter—say 1 lb. of each; ½ saltspoonful -of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, -rather more than ¼ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Weigh -the flour; ascertain that it is -perfectly <i>dry</i>, and sift it; squeeze all the -water from the butter, and wring it in a -clean cloth till there is no moisture remaining. -Put the flour on the paste-board, -work lightly into it 2 oz. of the -butter, and then make a hole in the -centre; into this well put the yolks of 2 -eggs, the salt, and about ¼ pint of water -(the quantity of this latter ingredient -must be regulated by the cook, as it is -impossible to give the exact proportion -of it); knead up the paste quickly and -lightly, and, when quite smooth, roll it -out square to the thickness of about ½ -inch. Presuming that the butter is perfectly -free from moisture, and <i>as cool</i> as -possible, roll it into a ball, and place this -ball of butter on the paste; fold the -paste over the butter all round, and -secure it by wrapping it well all over. -Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly -with the rolling-pin until it is quite thin, -but not thin enough to allow the butter -to break through, and keep the board -and paste dredged lightly with flour -during the process of making it. This -rolling gives it the <i>first</i> turn. Now fold -the paste in three, and roll out again, -and, should the weather be very warm, -put it in a cold place on the ground to -cool between the several turns; for, -unless this is particularly attended to, -the paste will be spoiled. Roll out the -paste again <i>twice</i>, put it by to cool, then -roll it out <i>twice</i> more, which will make 6 -<i>turnings</i> in all. Now fold the paste in -two, and it will be ready for use. If -properly baked and well made, this crust -will be delicious, and should rise in the -oven about 5 or 6 inches. The paste should -be made rather firm in the first instance, -as the ball of butter is liable to break -through. Great attention must also be -paid to keeping the butter very cool, as, -if this is in a liquid and soft state, the -paste will not answer at all. Should the -cook be dexterous enough to succeed in -making this, the paste will have a much -better appearance than that made by the -process of dividing the butter into 4 -parts, and placing it over the rolled-out -paste; but until experience has been -acquired, we recommend puff-paste made -by recipe. The above paste is used for -vols-au-vent, small articles of pastry, -and, in fact, everything that requires -very light crust. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -per lb.</p> - - -<h3>PASTE, Puff, very Good.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow 1 lb. of butter, and not quite ½ pint -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Carefully weigh the -flour and butter, and have the exact -proportion; squeeze the butter well, to -extract the water from it, and afterwards -wring it in a clean cloth, that no moisture -may remain. Sift the flour; see that it -is perfectly dry, and proceed in the -following manner to make the paste, -using a very <i>clean</i> paste-board and rolling-pin:—Supposing -the quantity to be 1 lb. -of flour, work the whole into a smooth -paste with not quite ½ pint of water, -using a knife to mix it with: the proportion -of this latter ingredient must be -regulated by the discretion of the cook; -if too much be added, the paste, when -baked, will be tough. Roll it out until -it is of an equal thickness of about an -inch; break 4 oz. of the butter into small -pieces; place these on the paste, sift over -it a little flour, fold it over, roll out again,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span> -and put another 4 oz. of butter. Repeat -the rolling and buttering until the paste -has been rolled out 4 times, or equal -quantities of flour and butter have been -used. Do not omit, every time the paste -is rolled out, to dredge a little flour over -that and the rolling-pin, to prevent both -from sticking. Handle the paste as -lightly as possible, and do not press -heavily upon it with the rolling-pin. The -next thing to be considered is the oven, -as the baking of pastry requires particular -attention. Do not put it into the oven -until it is sufficiently hot to raise the -paste; for the best-prepared paste, if not -properly baked, will be good for nothing. -Brushing the paste as often as rolled out, -and the pieces of butter placed thereon, -with the white of an egg, assists it to rise -in <i>leaves</i> or <i>flakes</i>. As this is the great -beauty of puff-paste, it is as well to try -this method. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>PASTE, Puff, Medium.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow 8 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of lard, not -quite ½ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—This paste -may be made by the directions in the -preceding recipe, only using less butter, -and substituting lard for a portion of it. -Mix the flour to a smooth paste with -not quite ½ pint of water; then roll it -out 3 times, the first time covering the -paste with butter, the second with lard, -and the third with butter. Keep the -rolling-pin and paste slightly dredged -with flour, to prevent them from sticking, -and it will be ready for use. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>PASTE, Puff (Soyer’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow the yolk of 1 egg, the juice of 1 -lemon, ½ saltspoonful of salt, cold water, -1 lb. of fresh butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -flour on to the paste-board; make a hole -in the centre, into which put the yolk of -the egg, the lemon-juice, and salt; mix -the whole with cold water (this should -be iced in summer, if convenient) into a -soft flexible paste, with the right hand, -and handle it as little as possible; then -squeeze all the buttermilk from the -butter, wring it in a cloth, and roll out -the paste; place the butter on this, and -fold the edges of the paste over, so as to -hide it; roll it out again to the thickness -of ¼ inch; fold over one third, over -which again pass the rolling-pin; then -fold over the other third, thus forming a -square; place it with the ends, top, and -bottom before you, shaking a little flour -both under and over, and repeat the rolls -and turns twice again, as before. Flour -a baking-sheet, put the paste on this, -and let it remain on ice or in some cool -place for ½ hour; then roll twice more, -turning it as before; place it again upon -the ice for ¼ hour, give it 2 more rolls, -making 7 in all, and it is ready for use -when required. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -per lb.</p> - - -<h3>PASTRY AND PUDDINGS, -Directions in connection with -the making of.</h3> - -<p>A few general remarks respecting the -various ingredients of which puddings -and pastry are composed may be acceptable, -in addition to the recipes in this -department of Household Management.</p> - -<p><i>Flour</i> should be of the best quality, -and perfectly dry, and sifted before -being used; if in the least damp, the -paste made from it will certainly be -heavy.</p> - -<p><i>Butter</i>, unless fresh is used, should be -washed from the salt, and well squeezed -and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the -water and buttermilk, which, if left in, -assist to make the paste heavy.</p> - -<p><i>Lard</i> should be perfectly sweet, which -may be ascertained by cutting the -bladder through, and, if the knife smells -sweet, the lard is good.</p> - -<p><i>Suet</i> should be finely chopped, perfectly -free from skin, and quite sweet; during -the process of chopping, it should be -lightly dredged with flour, which prevents -the pieces from sticking together. Beef -suet is considered the best; but veal -suet, or the outside fat of a loin or neck -of mutton, makes good crusts; as also -the skimmings in which a joint of mutton -has been boiled, but <i>without</i> vegetables.</p> - -<p><i>Clarified Beef Dripping</i> answers very -well for kitchen pies, puddings, cakes, or -for family use. A very good short crust -may be made by mixing with it a small -quantity of moist sugar; but care must -be taken to use the dripping sparingly, -or a very disagreeable flavour will be -imparted to the paste.</p> - -<p>Strict cleanliness must be observed in -pastry-making; all the utensils used -should be perfectly free from dust and -dirt, and the things required for pastry -kept entirely for that purpose.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 276px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239a.jpg" width="276" height="272" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PASTE-BOARD AND ROLLING-PIN.</div> -</div> - -<p>In mixing paste, add the water very -gradually, work the whole together with -the knife-blade, and knead it until -perfectly smooth. Those who are inexperienced -in pastry-making should work -the butter in by breaking it in small -pieces, and covering the paste rolled out. -It should then be dredged with flour, -and the ends folded over and rolled out -very thin again: this process must be -repeated until all the butter is used.</p> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 342px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239b.jpg" width="342" height="122" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR -ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OF PIE-CRUSTS.</div> -</div> - -<p>The art of making paste requires much -practice, dexterity, and skill: it should -be touched as lightly as possible, made -with cool hands and in a cool place (a -marble slab is better than a board for -the purpose), and the coolest part of the -house should be selected for the process -during warm weather.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239c.jpg" width="377" height="174" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER.</div> -</div> - -<p>To insure rich paste being light, great -expedition must be used in the making -and baking; for if it stand long before -it is put in the oven, it becomes flat and -heavy.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 282px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239d.jpg" width="282" height="114" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ORNAMENTAL-PASTE CUTTER.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Puff-paste</i> requires a brisk oven, but -not too hot, or it would blacken the crust; -on the other hand, if the oven be too -slack, the paste will be soddened, and -will not rise, nor will it have any -colour.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 278px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239e.jpg" width="278" height="64" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239f.jpg" width="291" height="87" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PIE-DISH.</div> -</div> - -<p>Tart-tins, cake-moulds, dishes for baked -puddings, patty-pans, &c., should all be -buttered before the article intended to -be baked is put in them. Things to be -baked on sheets should be placed on -buttered paper. Raised-pie paste should -have a soaking heat, and paste glazed -must have rather a slack oven, that -the icing be not scorched. It is -better to ice tarts, &c., when they are -three-parts baked.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 262px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239g.jpg" width="262" height="119" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">RAISED-PIE MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 262px;"> -<img src="images/illus-239h.jpg" width="262" height="184" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">RAISED-PIE MOULD, OPEN.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span></p> - -<p>To ascertain when the oven is heated -to the proper degree for puff-paste, put -a small piece of the paste in previous to -baking the whole, and then the heat can -thus be judged of.</p> - -<p>The freshness of all pudding ingredients -is of much importance, as one bad -article will taint the whole mixture.</p> - -<p>When the <i>freshness</i> of eggs is <i>doubtful</i>, -break each one separately in a cup, -before mixing them altogether. Should -there be a bad one amongst them, it can -be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with -the good ones, the entire quantity would -be spoiled. The yolks and whites -beaten separately make the articles they -are put into much lighter.</p> - -<p>Raisins and dried fruits for puddings -should be carefully picked, and in many -cases stoned. Currants should be well -washed, pressed in a cloth, and placed -on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly -dry: they should then be picked carefully -over, and <i>every piece of grit or stone</i> -removed from amongst them. To plump -them, some cooks pour boiling water -over them, and then dry them before the -fire.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 197px;"> -<img src="images/illus-240a.jpg" width="197" height="207" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p>Batter pudding should be smoothly -mixed and free from lumps. To insure -this, first mix the flour with a very small -proportion of milk, and add the remainder -by degrees. Should the pudding be -very lumpy, it may be strained through -a hair sieve.</p> - -<p><i>All boiled puddings</i> should be put on -in <i>boiling water</i>, which must not be -allowed to stop -simmering, and -the pudding -must always be -covered with the -water; if requisite, -the saucepan -should be -kept filled up.</p> - - -<p>To prevent a -pudding boiled -in a cloth from -sticking to the -bottom of the -saucepan, place a small plate or saucer -underneath it, and set the pan <i>on a -trivet</i> over the fire. If a mould is used, -this precaution is not necessary; but -care must be taken to keep the pudding -well covered with water.</p> - -<p>For dishing a boiled pudding as soon -as it comes out of the pot, dip it into a -basin of cold water, and the cloth will -then not adhere to it. Great expedition -is necessary in sending puddings to table, -as by standing they quickly become -heavy, batter puddings particularly.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 294px;"> -<img src="images/illus-240b.jpg" width="294" height="118" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED PUDDING MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p>For baked or boiled puddings, the -moulds, cups, or basins should be always -buttered before the mixture is put in -them, and they should be put into the -saucepan directly they are filled.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 261px;"> -<img src="images/illus-240c.jpg" width="261" height="150" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PUDDING-BASIN.</div> -</div> - -<p>Scrupulous attention should be paid -to the cleanliness of pudding-cloths, as -from neglect in this particular the outsides -of boiled puddings frequently taste -very disagreeably. As soon as possible -after it is taken off the pudding, it -should be soaked in water, and then well -washed, without soap, unless it be very -greasy. It should be dried out of doors, -then folded up and kept in a dry place. -When wanted for use, dip it in boiling -water, and dredge it slightly with flour.</p> - -<p><i>The dry ingredients</i> for puddings are -better for being mixed some time before -they are wanted; the liquid portion -should only be added just before the -pudding is put into the saucepan.</p> - -<p>A pinch of salt is an improvement to -the generality of puddings; but this -ingredient should be added very sparingly, -as the flavour should not be -detected.</p> - -<p>When baked puddings are sufficiently -solid, turn them out of the dish they -were baked in, bottom uppermost, and -strew over them fine-sifted sugar.</p> - -<p>When pastry or baked puddings are -not done through, and yet the outside is -sufficiently brown, cover them over with -a piece of white paper until thoroughly -cooked: this prevents them from getting -burnt.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>PASTRY, to Ice or Glaze.</h3> - -<p>To glaze pastry, which is the usual -method adopted for meat or raised pies, -break an egg, separate the yolk from the -white, and beat the former for a short -time. Then, when the pastry is nearly -baked, take it out of the oven, brush it -over with this beaten yolk of egg, and -put it back in the oven to set the glaze.</p> - -<p>To ice pastry, which is the usual -method adopted for fruit tarts and sweet -dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg -on a plate, and with the blade of a knife -beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry -is nearly baked, brush it over with this, -and sift over some pounded sugar; put -it back into the oven to set the glaze, -and, in a few minutes, it will be done. -Great care should be taken that the -paste does not catch or burn in the oven, -which it is very liable to do after the -icing is laid on. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 egg -and 1½ oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts.</p> - - -<h3>PASTRY SANDWICHES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste, jam of any -kind, the white of an egg, sifted sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Roll the paste out thin; put half -of it on a baking-sheet or tin, and spread -equally over it apricot, greengage, or any -preserve that may be preferred. Lay -over this preserve another thin paste; -press the edges together all round; and -mark the paste in lines with a knife on -the surface, to show where to cut it when -baked. Bake from 20 minutes to ½ hour; -and, a short time before being done, -take the pastry out of the oven, brush it -over with the white of an egg, sift over -pounded sugar, and put it back in the -oven to colour. When cold, cut it into -strips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, -and serve. These strips, cut about 2 -inches long, piled in circular rows, and -a plateful of flavoured whipped cream -poured in the middle, make a very pretty -dish. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, with ½ lb. of paste, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—½ lb. of paste will make 2 -dishes of sandwiches. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>PATE BRISEE, Crust French, for -Raised Pies.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour allow -½ saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, 1/3 pint of -water, 6 oz. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Spread -the flour, which should be sifted and -thoroughly dry, on the paste-board; -make a hole in the centre, into which -put the butter; work it lightly into the -flour, and when quite fine, add the salt; -work the whole into a smooth paste with -the eggs (yolks and whites) and water, -and make it very firm. Knead the paste -well, and let it be rather stiff, that the -sides of the pie may be easily raised, and -that they do not afterwards tumble or -shrink. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This paste may be very much -enriched by making it with equal quantities -of flour and butter; but then it -is not so easily raised as when made -plainer.</p> - - -<h3>PATTIES, Fried.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—Cold -roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, -1 egg boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper -and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1 teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel, good -puff-paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince a little cold -veal and ham, allowing one-third ham to -two-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard -and chopped, and a seasoning of pounded -mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; -moisten with a little gravy and cream. -Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, -and cut it into round or square pieces; -put the mince between two of them, -pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, -and fry a light brown. They may also -be baked in patty-pans; in that case, -they should be brushed over with the -yolk of an egg before they are put in the -oven. To make a variety, oysters may -be substituted for the ham. <i>Time.</i>—15 -minutes to fry the patties. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>PEA SOUP (Inexpensive).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of onions, ¼ lb. of -carrots, 2 oz. of celery, ¾ lb. of split peas, -a little mint, shred fine; 1 tablespoonful -of coarse brown sugar, salt and pepper -to taste, 4 quarts of water, or liquor in -which a joint of meat has been boiled. -<i>Mode.</i>—Fry the vegetables for 10 minutes -in a little butter or dripping, previously -cutting them up into small pieces; pour -the water on them, and when boiling add -the peas. Let them simmer for nearly -3 hours, or until the peas are thoroughly -done. Add the sugar, seasoning, and -mint; boil for ¼ of an hour, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—3½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> per<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span> -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 12 persons.</p> - - -<h3>PEA SOUP (Green).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 pints of green peas, ¼ -lb. of butter, 2 or 3 thin slices of ham, 3 -onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the -crumb of 2 French rolls, 2 handfuls of -spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of -medium stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter, -jam, 1 quart of peas, onions, and lettuces, -to a pint of stock, and simmer for -an hour; then add the remainder of the -stock, with the crumb of the French -rolls, and boil for another hour. Now -boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry. -Rub the soup through a sieve, and the -spinach with it, to colour it. Have -ready a pint of <i>young</i> peas boiled; add -them to the soup, put in the sugar, give -one boil, and serve. If necessary, add -salt. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from June -to the end of August. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 -persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—It will be well to add, if the -peas are not quite young, a little more -sugar. Where economy is essential, -water may be used instead of stock for -this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells; -but using a double quantity of -vegetables.</p> - - -<h3>PEA SOUP, Winter (Yellow).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of split peas, 2 -lbs. of shin beef, trimmings of meat or -poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, -2 turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, -seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of soft water, -any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts -of common stock, or liquor in which a -joint of meat has been boiled. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the peas to soak over-night in soft -water, and float off such as rise to the -top. Boil them in the water till tender -enough to pulp; then add the ingredients -mentioned above, and simmer -for 2 hours, stirring it occasionally. -Pass the whole through a sieve, skim -well, season, and serve with toasted -bread cut in dice. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year round, but more suitable for -cold weather. <i>Sufficient</i> for 12 persons.</p> - - -<h3>PEACHES, Compôte of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of syrup, about -15 small peaches, <i>Mode.</i>—Peaches that -are not very large, and that would not -look well for dessert, answer very nicely -for a compôte. Divide the peaches, take -out the stones, and pare the fruit; make -a syrup by recipe, put in the peaches, -and stew them gently for about 10 minutes. -Take them out without breaking, -arrange them on a glass dish, boil the -syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, let it cool, -pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, -it will be ready for table. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in August -and September.</p> - - -<h3>PEACH FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For the batter, ½ lb. of -flour, ½ oz. of butter, ½ saltspoonful of -salt, 2 eggs, milk, peaches, hot lard or -clarified dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a nice -smooth batter; skin, halve, and stone the -peaches, which should be quite ripe; -dip them in the batter, and fry the -pieces in hot lard or clarified dripping, -which should be boiling before the -peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes -will be required to fry them; -when done, drain them before the fire. -Dish them on a white d’oyley. Strew -over plenty of pounded sugar and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the -fritters, 5 minutes to drain them. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in July, August, and September.</p> - - -<h3>PEACHES PRESERVED IN -BRANDY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit -weighed before being stoned, allow ¼ lb. -of finely-pounded loaf sugar; brandy. -<i>Mode.</i>—Let the fruit be gathered in dry -weather; wipe and weigh it, and remove -the stones as carefully as possible, without -injuring the peaches much. Put -them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them -pounded loaf sugar in the above proportion, -and pour brandy over the fruit. -Cover the jar down closely, place it in a -saucepan of boiling water over the fire, -and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, -but do not allow it to boil. Take -the fruit out carefully, without breaking -it; put it into small jars, pour over it -the brandy, and, when cold, exclude the -air by covering the jars with bladders, -or tissue-paper brushed over on both -sides with the white of an egg. Apricots<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span> -may be done in the same manner, and, -if properly prepared, will be found delicious. -<i>Time.</i>—From 10 to 20 minutes -to bring the brandy to the simmering-point. -<i>Seasonable</i> in August and September.</p> - - -<h3>PEARS, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 pears, the rind of 1 -lemon, 6 cloves, 10 whole allspice; to -every pint of water allow ½ lb. of loaf -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and cut the pears -into halves, and, should they be very -large, into quarters; leave the stalks on, -and carefully remove the cores. Place -them in a clean baking-jar, with a -closely-fitting lid; add to them the -lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of ½ -lemon, the cloves, pounded allspice, and -sufficient water just to cover the whole, -with sugar in the above proportion. -Cover the jar down closely, put it into -a very cool oven, and bake the pears -from 5 to 6 hours, but be very careful -that the oven is not too hot. To improve -the colour of the fruit, a few drops of -prepared cochineal may be added; but -this will not be found necessary, if the -pears are very gently baked. <i>Time.</i>—Large -pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow -oven. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> to 2<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to January.</p> - - -<h3>PEARS à L’ALLEMANDE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, -2 oz. of butter, the yolk of an egg, -½ oz. of gelatine. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel and cut -the pears into any form that may be -preferred, and steep them in cold water -to prevent them turning black; put -them into a saucepan with sufficient cold -water to cover them, and boil them with -the butter and enough sugar to sweeten -them nicely, until tender; then brush -the pears over with the yolk of an egg, -sprinkle them with sifted sugar, and -arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine -to the syrup, boil it up quickly for -about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, -and let it remain until set. The syrup -may be coloured with a little prepared -cochineal, which would very much improve -the appearance of the dish. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 minutes to ½ hour to stew the -pears; 5 minutes to boil the syrup. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a large -dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to February.</p> - - -<h3>PEARS, Moulded.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 large pears or 6 small -ones, 8 cloves, sugar to taste, water, a -small piece of cinnamon, ¼ pint of raisin -wine, a strip of lemon-peel, the juice of -½ lemon, ½ oz. of gelatine. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -and cut the pears into quarters; put -them into a jar with ¾ pint of water, -cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to -sweeten the whole nicely; cover down -the top of the jar, and bake the pears in -a gentle oven until perfectly tender, but -do not allow them to break. When -done, lay the pears in a plain mould, -which should be well wetted, and boil -½ pint of the liquor the pears were baked -in with the wine, lemon-peel, strained -juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients -boil quickly for 5 minutes, then -strain the liquid warm over the pears; -put the mould in a cool place, and when -the jelly is firm, turn it out on a glass -dish. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours to bake the pears -in a cool oven. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for a quart mould. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to February.</p> - - -<h3>PEARS, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Jargonelle pears; to -every lb. of sugar allow ½ pint of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Procure some Jargonelle pears, -not too ripe; put them into a stewpan -with sufficient water to cover them, and -simmer them till rather tender, but do -not allow them to break; then put them -into cold water. Boil the sugar and -water together for 5 minutes, skim well, -put in the pears, and simmer them -gently for 5 minutes. Repeat the simmering -for 3 successive days, taking -care not to let the fruit break. The last -time of boiling, the syrup should be -made rather richer, and the fruit boiled -for 10 minutes. When the pears are -done, drain them from the syrup, and -dry them in the sun, or in a cool oven; -or they may be kept in the syrup, and -dried as they are wanted. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour to simmer the pears in water, 20 -minutes in the syrup. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> -to 2<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Most plentiful -in September and October.</p> - - -<h3>PEARS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 large pears, 5 oz. of -loaf sugar, 6 cloves, 6 whole allspice, ½ -pint of water, ¼ pint of port wine, a few -drops of prepared cochineal. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> -the pears, halve them, remove the -cores, and leave the stalks on; put them -into a <i>lined</i> saucepan with the above -ingredients, and let them simmer very -gently until tender, which will be in -from 3 to 4 hours, according to the quality -of the pears. They should be -watched, and, when done, carefully lifted -out on to a glass dish without breaking -them. Boil up the syrup quickly for 2 -or 3 minutes; allow it to cool a little, -pour it over the pears, and let them get -perfectly cold. To improve the colour -of the fruit, a few drops of prepared -cochineal may be added, which rather -enhances the beauty of this dish. The -fruit must not be boiled fast, but only -simmered, and watched that it be not -too much done. <i>Time.</i>—3 to 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to January.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 260px;"> -<img src="images/illus-244.jpg" width="260" height="65" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">STEWED PEARS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PEAS, Boiled Green.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Green peas; to each ½ -gallon of water allow 1 <i>small</i> teaspoonful -of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—This delicious vegetable, -to be eaten in perfection, should be -young, and not <i>gathered</i> or <i>shelled</i> long -before it is dressed. Shell the peas, wash -them well in cold water, and drain them; -then put them into a saucepan with -plenty of <i>fast-boiling</i> water, to which -salt and <i>moist sugar</i> have been added in -the above proportion; let them boil -quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of -the saucepan uncovered, and be careful -that the smoke does not draw in. When -tender, pour them into a colander; put -them into a hot vegetable-dish, and -quite in the centre of the peas place a -piece of butter, the size of a walnut. -Many cooks boil a small bunch of mint -<i>with</i> the <i>peas</i>, or garnish them with it, -by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by -themselves. Should the peas be very -old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a -very tiny piece of soda may be thrown -in the water previous to putting them -in; but this must be very sparingly -used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, -to have a smashed and broken appearance. -With young peas, there is not -the slightest occasion to use it. <i>Time.</i>—Young -peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large -sorts, such as marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 -minutes; old peas, ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -when cheapest, 6<i>d.</i> per peck; when first in -season, 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per peck. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 peck of unshelled peas -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from June -to the end of August.</p> - - -<h3>PEAS, Green, à la Française.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 quarts of green peas, -3 oz. of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley, -6 green onions, flour, a small lump of -sugar, ½ teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful -of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Shell sufficient -fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put -them into cold water, with the above -proportion of butter, and stir them about -until they are well covered with the -butter; drain them in a colander, and -put them in a stewpan, with the parsley -and onions; dredge over them a little -flour, stir the peas well, and moisten -them with boiling water; boil them -quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, -or until there is no liquor remaining. -Dip a small lump of sugar into some -water, that it may soon melt; put it -with the peas, to which add ½ teaspoonful -of salt. Take a piece of butter the size -of a walnut, work it together with a teaspoonful -of flour, and add this to the -peas, which should be boiling when it is -put in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, -when the peas are nicely thickened, -dress them high in the dish, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per peck. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from June to the -end of August.</p> - - -<h3>PEAS, Stewed Green.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of peas, 1 lettuce, -1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt -to taste, 1 egg, ½ teaspoonful of powdered -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Shell the peas, and cut -the onion and lettuce into slices; put -these into a stewpan, with the butter, -pepper, and salt, but with no more water -than that which hangs around the -lettuce from washing. Stew the whole -very gently for rather more than 1 hour; -then stir in a well-beaten egg, and -about ½ teaspoonful of powdered sugar. -When the peas, &c., are nicely thickened, -serve; but, after the egg is added, do -not allow them to boil. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per peck. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from June -to the end of August.</p> - - -<h3>PERCH, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale the fish, take -out the gills and clean it thoroughly; lay -it in boiling water, salted as above, and -simmer gently for 10 minutes. If the -fish is very large, longer time must be -allowed. Garnish with parsley, and serve -with plain melted butter, or Dutch sauce. -Perch do not preserve so good a flavour -when stewed as when dressed in any -other way. <i>Time.</i>—Middling-sized perch, -¼ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -November.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Tench may be boiled the same -way, and served with the same sauces.</p> - - -<h3>PERCH, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Egg and bread-crumbs, -hot lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale and clean the -fish, brush it over with egg, and cover -with bread-crumbs. Have ready some -boiling lard; put the fish in, and fry a -nice brown. Serve with plain melted -butter or anchovy sauce. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -November.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Fry tench in the same way.</p> - - -<h3>PERCH, Stewed with Wine.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal quantities of stock -and sherry, 1 bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, -a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt to -taste; thickening of butter and flour, -pepper, grated nutmeg, ½ teaspoonful of -anchovy sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale the fish -and take out the gills, and clean them -thoroughly; lay them in a stewpan with -sufficient stock and sherry just to cover -them. Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, -cloves, and salt, and simmer till -tender. When done, take out the fish, -strain the liquor, add a thickening of -butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg, -and the anchovy sauce, and stir it over -the fire until somewhat reduced, when -pour over the fish, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About -20 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to November.</p> - - -<h3>PETITES BOUCHÉES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of sweet almonds, -¼ lb. of sifted sugar, the rind of ½ lemon, -the white of 1 egg, puff-paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -the almonds, and chop them fine; -rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and -pound it in a mortar; mix this with the -almonds and the white of the egg. Roll -some puff-paste out; cut it in any shape -that may be preferred, such as diamonds, -rings, ovals, &c., and spread the above -mixture over the paste. Bake the bouchées -in an oven, not too hot, and serve -cold. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour, or rather more. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for ½ lb. of -puff-paste. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PHEASANT.</h3> - -<p>If this bird be eaten three days after -it has been killed, it then has no peculiarity -of flavour; a pullet would be more -relished, and a quail would surpass it in -aroma. Kept, however, a proper length -of time,—and this can be ascertained by -a slight smell and change of colour,—then -it becomes a highly-flavoured dish, -occupying, so to speak, the middle distance -between chicken and venison. It -is difficult to define any exact time to -“hang” a pheasant; but any one possessed -of the instincts of gastronomical -science, can at once detect the right -moment when a pheasant should be taken -down, in the same way as a good cook -knows whether a bird should be removed -from the spit, or have a turn or two -more.</p> - - -<h3>PHEASANT, Broiled (a Breakfast -or Luncheon Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pheasant, a little lard, -egg and bread-crumbs, salt and cayenne -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the legs off at the -first joint, and the remainder of the bird -into neat pieces; put them into a frying-pan -with a little lard, and when browned -on both sides, and about half done, take -them out and drain them; brush the -pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with -bread-crumbs with which has been mixed -a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. -Broil them over a moderate fire for about -10 minutes, or rather longer, and serve -with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, -or brown gravy, in which a few game-bones -and trimmings have been stewed. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether ½ hour. <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st -of October to the beginning of February.</p> - - -<h3>PHEASANT, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>Fixing the fork in the breast, let the -carver cut slices from it in the direction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span> -of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the -prime pieces. If there be more guests -to satisfy than these slices will serve, -then let the legs and wings be disengaged -in the same manner as described -in carving boiled fowl, the point where -the wing joins the neckbone being carefully -found. The merrythought will -come off in the same way as that of a -fowl. The most valued parts are the -same as those which are most considered -in a fowl.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 253px;"> -<img src="images/illus-246a.jpg" width="253" height="98" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST PHEASANT.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PHEASANT CUTLETS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 pheasants, egg -and bread-crumbs, cayenne and salt to -taste, brown gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure 3 -young pheasants that have been hung a -few days; pluck, draw, and wipe them -inside; cut them into joints; remove -the bones from the best of these; and -the backbones, trimmings, &c., put into -a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, -vegetables, seasoning, &c., to make the -gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of -a good shape, egg and bread-crumb -them, broil them over a clear fire, pile -them high in the dish, and pour under -them the gravy made from the bones, -which should be strained, flavoured, and -thickened. One of the small bones -should be stuck on the point of each -cutlet. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 -entrées. <i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of -October to the beginning of February.</p> - - -<h3>PHEASANT, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pheasant, flour, butter. -<i>Choosing and trussing.</i>—Old pheasants -may be known by the length and sharpness -of their spurs; in young ones they -are short and blunt. The cock bird is -generally reckoned the best, except -when the hen is with egg. They should -hang some time before they are dressed, -as, if they are cooked fresh, the flesh -will be exceedingly dry and tasteless. -After the bird is plucked and drawn, -wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and -truss it in the same manner as partridge. -If the head is left on, as shown in the -engraving, bring it round under the -wing, and fix it on to the point of the -skewer. <i>Mode.</i>—Roast it before a brisk -fire, keep it well basted, and flour and -froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, -a little of which should be poured round -the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. -2 or 3 of the pheasant’s best tail-feathers -are sometimes stuck in the tail as an -ornament; but the fashion is not much -to be commended. <i>Time.</i>—½ to 1 hour, -according to the size. <i>Average cost</i>, -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i>,—1 for a -dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from the 1st of October -to the beginning of February.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 262px;"> -<img src="images/illus-246b.jpg" width="262" height="104" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST PHEASANT.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PHEASANT, Roast, Brillat Savarin’s -Recipe (à la Sainte Alliance).</h3> - -<p>When the pheasant is in good condition -to be cooked, it should be plucked, -and not before. The bird should then -be stuffed in the following manner:—Take -two snipes, and draw them, putting -the bodies on one plate, and the livers, -&c., on another. Take off the flesh, and -mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a -few truffles, pepper and salt to taste, and -stuff the pheasant carefully with this. -Cut a slice of bread, larger considerably -than the bird, and cover it with the liver, -&c., and a few truffles: an anchovy and -a little fresh butter added to these will -do no harm. Put the bread, &c., into -the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is -roasted, place it on the preparation, and -surround it with Florida oranges.</p> - -<p>Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about -your dinner; for a pheasant served in -this way is fit for beings better than -men. The pheasant itself is a very good -bird; and, imbibing the dressing and -the flavour of the truffle and snipe, it -becomes thrice better.</p> - - -<h3>PHEASANT SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pheasants, ¼ lb. of butter, -2 slices of ham, 2 large onions sliced, -½ head of celery, the crumb of two -French rolls, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled -hard; salt and cayenne to taste, a litt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span>le -pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of -stock medium. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the -pheasants, flour and braise them in the -butter and ham till they are of a nice -brown, but not burnt. Put them in a -stewpan, with the onions, celery, stock, -and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. -Strain the soup; pound the breasts with -the crumb of the roll previously soaked, -and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the -soup, give one boil, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> per -quart, or, if made with fragments of -cold game, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from October -to February. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Fragments, pieces and bones of -cold game, may be used to great advantage -in this soup, and then 1 pheasant -will suffice.</p> - - -<h3>PICKLE, an Excellent.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal quantities of medium-sized -onions, cucumbers, and sauce-apples; -1½ teaspoonful of salt, ¾ teaspoonful -of cayenne, 1 wineglassful of soy, 1 -wineglassful of sherry; vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice -sufficient cucumbers, onions, and -apples to fill a pint stone jar, taking care -to cut the slices very thin; arrange them -in alternate layers, adding at the same -time salt and cayenne in the above proportion; -pour in the soy and wine, and -fill up with vinegar. It will be fit for -use the day it is made. <i>Seasonable</i> in -August and September,</p> - - -<h3>PICKLE, Indian (very Superior).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each gallon of vinegar -allow 6 cloves of garlic, 12 shalots, 2 -sticks of sliced horseradish, ¼ lb. of -bruised ginger, 2 oz. of whole black -pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of -allspice, 12 cloves, ¼ oz. of cayenne, 2 -oz. of mustard-seed, ¼ lb. of mustard, 1 -oz. of turmeric; a white cabbage, cauliflowers, -radish-pods, French beans, gherkins, -small round pickling-onions, nasturtiums, -capsicums, chilies, &c. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the cabbage, which must be hard -and white, into slices, and the cauliflowers -into small branches; sprinkle -salt over them in a large dish, and let -them remain two days; then dry them, -and put them into a very large jar, with -garlic, shalots, horseradish, ginger, pepper, -allspice, and cloves, in the above -proportions. Boil sufficient vinegar to -cover them, which pour over, and, when -cold, cover up to keep them free from dust. -As the other things for the pickle ripen -at different times, they may be added as -they are ready: these will be radish-pods, -French beans, gherkins, small -onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, -&c., &c. As these are procured, they -must, first of all, be washed in a little -cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply -added to the other ingredients in the -large jar, only taking care that they are -<i>covered</i> by the vinegar. If more vinegar -should be wanted to add to the pickle, -do not omit first to boil it before adding -it to the rest. When you have collected -all the things you require, turn all out in -a large pan, and thoroughly mix them. -Now put the mixed vegetables into -smaller jars, without any of the vinegar; -then boil the vinegar again, adding as -much more as will be required to fill the -different jars, and also cayenne, mustard-seed, -turmeric, and mustard, which -must be well mixed with a little cold -vinegar, allowing the quantities named -above to each gallon of vinegar. Pour -the vinegar, boiling hot, over the pickle, -and when cold, tie down with a bladder. -If the pickle is wanted for immediate -use, the vinegar should be boiled twice -more, but the better way is to make it -during one season for use during the -next. It will keep for years, if care is -taken that the vegetables are quite -covered by the vinegar.</p> - -<p>This recipe was taken from the directions -of a lady whose pickle was -always pronounced excellent by all who -tasted it, and who has, for many years, -exactly followed the recipe given above.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—For small families, perhaps the -above quantity of pickle will be considered -too large; but this may be decreased -at pleasure, taking care to properly -proportion the various ingredients.</p> - - -<h3>PICKLE, Mixed (very good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each gallon of vinegar -allow ¼ lb. of bruised ginger, ¼ lb. of -mustard, ¼ lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, -1½ oz. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground -black pepper, ¼ oz. of cayenne, cauliflowers, -onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, -gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, -capsicums. <i>Mode.</i>—Have a large jar, -with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put -as much vinegar as required, reserving a -little to mix the various powders to a -smooth paste<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span>. Put into a basin the -mustard, turmeric, pepper, and cayenne; -mix them with vinegar, and stir well -until no lumps remain; add all the ingredients -to the vinegar, and mix well. -Keep this liquor in a warm place, and -thoroughly stir every morning for a -month with a wooden spoon, when it will -be ready for the different vegetables to -be added to it. As these come into season, -have them gathered on a dry day, -and, after merely wiping them with a -cloth, to free them from moisture, put -them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, -it may be said, must be divided into -small bunches. Put all these into the -pickle raw, and at the end of the season, -when there have been added as -many of the vegetables as could be procured, -store it away in jars, and tie over -with bladder. As none of the ingredients -are boiled, this pickle will not be -fit to eat till 12 months have elapsed. -Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a -wooden spoon tied to the jar; and its -contents, it may be repeated, must be -stirred every morning. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -the pickle-liquor in May or June, -as the season arrives for the various -vegetables to be picked.</p> - - -<h3><a id="PICKLE_for_Tongues_or_Beef"></a>PICKLE for Tongues or Beef -(Newmarket Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 gallon of soft water, 3 -lbs. of coarse salt, 6 oz. of coarse brown -sugar, ½ oz. of saltpetre. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients into a saucepan, and -let them boil for ½ an hour, clear off the -scum as it rises, and when done pour the -pickle into a pickling-pan. Let it get -cold, then put in the meat, and allow it -to remain in pickle from 8 to 14 days, -according to the size. It will keep good -for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. -Tongues will take 1 month or 6 -weeks to be properly cured; and, in -salting meat, beef and tongues should -always be put in separate vessels. <i>Time.</i>—A -moderate-sized tongue should remain -in the pickle about a month, and be -turned every day.</p> - - -<h3>PICKLE, Universal.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To 6 quarts of vinegar -allow 1 lb. of salt, ¼ lb. of ginger, 1 oz. -of mace, ½ lb. of shalots, 1 tablespoonful -of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1½ oz. -of turmeric. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil all the ingredients -together for about 20 minutes; -when cold, put them into a jar with -whatever vegetables you choose, such -as radish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, -gherkins, &c. &c., as these come -into season; put them in fresh as you -gather them, having previously wiped -them perfectly free from moisture and -grit. This pickle will be fit for use in -about 8 or 9 months. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make the pickle in May or -June, to be ready for the various vegetables.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—As this pickle takes 2 or 3 -months to make,—that is to say, nearly -that time will elapse before all the different -vegetables are added,—care must be -taken to keep the jar which contains -the pickle well covered, either with a -closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladder -securely tied over, so as perfectly to -exclude the air.</p> - - -<h3>PICKLES.</h3> - -<p>Although pickles may be purchased at -shops at as low a rate as they can usually -be made for at home, or perhaps even -for less, yet we would advise all housewives, -who have sufficient time and convenience, -to prepare their own. The -only general rules, perhaps, worth stating -here,—as in the recipes all necessary -details will be explained—are, that -the vegetables and fruits used should be -sound, and not over-ripe, and that the -very best vinegar should be employed.</p> - - -<h3>PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS, Bill -of Fare for.</h3> - -<p>A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of -cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of lamb, 2 -shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast -ducks, 1 ham, 1 tongue, 2 veal-and-ham -pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized -lobsters, 1 piece of collared calf’s head, -18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 cucumbers.</p> - -<p>Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put -into glass bottles well corked; 3 or 4 -dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with -the stewed fruit, 2 dozen fruit turnovers, -4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings -in moulds, 2 blancmanges in -moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold -plum-pudding (this must be good), a few -baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen plain biscuits, -a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. of butter -(this, of course, includes the butter for -tea), 4 quartern loaves of household bread, -3 dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for -tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2 pound cakes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> -2 sponge-cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, -½ lb. of tea. Coffee is not suitable for a -picnic, being difficult to make.</p> - - -<h3>PICNIC, Things not to be forgotten -at.</h3> - -<p>A stick of horseradish, a bottle of -mint-sauce well corked, a bottle of salad -dressing, a bottle of vinegar, made mustard, -pepper, salt, good oil, and pounded -sugar. If it can be managed, take a little -ice. It is scarcely necessary to say that -plates, tumblers, wine-glasses, knives, -forks, and spoons must not be forgotten; -as also teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, -some lump sugar, and milk, if this -last-named article cannot be obtained in -the neighbourhood. Take 3 corkscrews.</p> - -<p><i>Beverages.</i>—3 dozen quart bottles of -ale, packed in hampers; ginger-beer, -soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 -dozen bottles; 6 bottles of sherry, 6 bottles -of claret, champagne à discrétion, -and any other light wine that may be -preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. -Water can usually be obtained, so it is -useless to take it.</p> - - -<h3>PIG, Sucking, to Carve.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 303px;"> -<img src="images/illus-249a.jpg" width="303" height="149" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">SUCKING-PIG.</div> -</div> - -<p>A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, -rather an elaborate dish, or rather -animal, to carve; but by carefully mastering -the details of the business, every -difficulty will vanish; and if a partial -failure be at first made, yet all embarrassment -will quickly disappear on a -second trial. A sucking-pig is usually -sent to table in the manner shown in the -engraving, and the first point to be -attended to is to separate the shoulder -from the carcase, by carrying the knife -quickly and neatly round the circular -line, as shown by the figures 1, 2, 3;—the -shoulder will then easily come away. -The next step is to take off the leg; and -this is done in the same way, by cutting -round this joint in the direction shown -by the figures 1, 2, 3, in the same way -as the shoulder. The ribs then stand -fairly open to the knife, which should be -carried down in the direction of the line -4 to 5; and two or three helpings will -dispose of these. The other half of the -pig is served, of course, in the same -manner. Different parts of the pig are -variously esteemed; some preferring the -flesh of the neck; others, the ribs; and -others, again, the shoulders. The truth -is, the whole of a sucking-pig is delicious, -delicate eating; but, in carving it, -the host should consult the various tastes -and fancies of his guests, keeping the -larger joints, generally, for the gentlemen -of the party.</p> - - - - -<h3>PIG, Sucking, Roast.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 309px;"> -<img src="images/illus-249b.jpg" width="309" height="155" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST SUCKING-PIG.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pig, 6 oz. of bread-crumbs, -16 sage-leaves, pepper and salt -to taste, a piece of butter the size of an -egg, salad oil or butter to baste with, -about ½ pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of -lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—A sucking-pig, to -be eaten in perfection, should not be -more than three weeks old, and should -be dressed the same day that it is killed. -After preparing the pig for cooking, as -in the following recipe, stuff it with -finely-grated bread-crumbs, minced sage, -pepper, salt, and a piece of butter the -size of an egg, all of which should be -well mixed together, and put into the -body of the pig. Sew up the slit neatly, -and truss the legs back, to allow the -inside to be roasted, and the under part -to be crisp. Put the pig down to a -bright clear fire, not too near, and let it -lay till thoroughly dry; then have ready -some butter tied up in a piece of thin -cloth, and rub the pig with this in every -part. Keep it well rubbed with the -butter the whole of the time it is roasting, -and do not allow the crackling to -become blistered or burnt. When half-done, -hang a pig-iron before the middle -part (if this is not obtainable, use a flat -iron), to prevent its being scorched and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span> -dried up before the ends are done. -Before it is taken from the fire, out off -the head, and part that and the body -down the middle. Chop the brains and -mix them with the stuffing; add ½ pint -of good gravy, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -and the gravy that flowed from -the pig; put a little of this on the dish -with the pig, and the remainder send to -table in a tureen. Place the pig back to -back in the dish, with one half of the -head on each side, and one of the ears at -each end, and send it to table as hot as -possible. Instead of butter, many cooks -take salad oil for basting, which makes -the crackling <i>crisp</i>; and as this is one -of the principal things to be considered, -perhaps it is desirable to use it; but be -particular that it is very pure, or it will -impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat. -The brains and stuffing may be stirred -into a tureen of melted butter instead of -gravy, when the latter is not liked. -Apple sauce and the old-fashioned currant sauce -are not yet quite obsolete as an -accompaniment to roast pig. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -to 2 hours for a small pig. <i>Average -cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> to 6<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 9 or 10 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to -February.</p> - - -<h3>PIG, Sucking, to Scald a.</h3> - -<p>Put the pig into cold water directly it -is killed; let it remain for a few minutes, -then immerse it in a large pan of boiling -water for 2 minutes. Take it out, lay -it on a table, and pull off the hair as -quickly as possible. When the skin -looks clean, make a slit down the belly, -take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils -and ears, wash the pig in cold -water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. -Take off the feet at the first joint, and -loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn -neatly over. If not to be dressed immediately, -fold it in a wet cloth to keep -it from the air.</p> - - -<h3>PIGS’ CHEEKS, to Dry.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salt, ½ oz. of saltpetre, -2 oz. of bay-salt, 4 oz. of coarse sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut out the snout, remove the -brains, and split the head, taking off the -upper bone to make the jowl a good -shape; rub it well with salt; next day -take away the brine, and salt it again -the following day; cover the head with -saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar, in -the above proportion, adding a little -common salt. Let the head be often -turned, and when it has been in the -pickle for 10 days, smoke it for a week -or rather longer. <i>Time.</i>—To remain in -the pickle 10 days; to be smoked 1 -week. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Should be made -from September to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A pig’s cheek, or Bath chap, -will require two hours’ cooking after the -water boils.</p> - - -<h3>PIG’S FACE, Collared (a Breakfast -or Luncheon Dish).</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 238px;"> -<img src="images/illus-250.jpg" width="238" height="117" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PIG’S FACE.</div> -</div> -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pig’s face; salt. For -brine, 1 gallon of spring water, 1 lb. -of common salt, ½ handful of chopped -juniper-berries, 6 bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, -a few sprigs of thyme, basil, -sage, ¼ oz. of saltpetre. For forcemeat, -½ lb. of ham, ½ lb. bacon, 1 teaspoonful -of mixed spices, pepper to taste, ¼ lb. of -lard, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, -6 young onions. <i>Mode.</i>—Singe the head -carefully, bone it without breaking the -skin, and rub it well with salt. Make -the brine by boiling the above ingredients -for -¼ hour, and -letting it -stand to -cool. When -cold, pour -it over the -head, and -let it steep -in this for 10 days, turning and rubbing -it often. Then wipe, drain, and dry it. -For the forcemeat, pound the ham and -bacon very finely, and mix with these -the remaining ingredients, taking care -that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. -Spread this equally over the -head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bind -it securely with broad tape. Put it into -a saucepan with a few meat trimmings, -and cover it with stock; let it simmer -gently for 4 hours, and be particular that -it does not stop boiling the whole time. -When quite tender, take it up, put -it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight -on the top, and when cold, remove the -cloth and tape. It should be sent to -table on a napkin, or garnished with -a piece of deep white paper with a ruche -at the top. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 2<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from -October to March.</p> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>PIG’S FRY, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of pig’s fry, 2 -onions, a few sage leaves, 3 lbs. of -potatoes, pepper and salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the lean fry at the bottom -of a pie dish, sprinkle over it some -minced sage and onion, and a seasoning -of pepper and salt; slice the potatoes; -put a layer of these on the seasonings, -then the fat-fry, then more seasoning, -and a layer of potatoes at the top. -Fill the dish with boiling water, and -bake for 2 hours, or rather longer. -<i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or -4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - - -<h3>PIG’S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical -Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The liver and lights of a -pig, 6 or 7 slices of bacon, potatoes, -1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 -sage leaves, pepper and salt to taste, a -little broth or water. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the -liver and lights, and wash these perfectly -clean, and parboil the potatoes; mince -the parsley and sage, and chop the onion -rather small. Put the meat, potatoes, -and bacon into a deep tin dish, in alternate -layers, with a sprinkling of the -herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and -salt between each; pour on a little water -or broth, and bake in a moderately-heated -oven for 2 hours. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -March.</p> - - -<h3>PIG’S PETTITOES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A thin slice of bacon, -1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, -3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, -pepper and salt to taste, thickening of -butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the liver, -heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with -the bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, -onion, and gravy, and simmer these -gently for ¼ hour; then take out the -heart and liver, and mince them very -fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite -tender, which will be in from 20 minutes -to ½ hour, reckoning from the time that -they boiled up first; then put back the -minced liver, thicken the gravy with -a little butter and flour, season with -pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentle -fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring -the contents. Dish the mince, split the -feet, and arrange them round alternately -with sippets of toasted bread, and pour -the gravy in the middle. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -40 minutes. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -March.</p> - - -<h3>PIGEON, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>A very straightforward plan is adopted -in carving a pigeon: the knife is carried -sharply in the -direction of the -line as shown -from 1 to 2, entirely -through -the bird, cutting -it into two -precisely equal -and similar parts. If it is necessary -to make three pieces of it, a small wing -should be cut off with the leg on either -side, thus serving two guests; and, by -this means, there will be sufficient meat -left on the breast to send to the third -guest.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;"> -<img src="images/illus-251.jpg" width="211" height="91" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PIGEON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of rump-steak, 2 -or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of ham, pepper and -salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff -crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the steak into pieces -about 3 inches square, and with it line -the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well -with pepper and salt. Clean the pigeons, -rub them with pepper and salt inside -and out, and put into the body of each -rather more than ½ oz. of butter; lay -them on the steak, and a piece of ham on -each pigeon. Add the yolks of four -eggs, and half fill the dish with stock; -place a border of puff paste round the -edge of the dish, put on the cover, and -ornament it in any way that may be preferred. -Clean three of the feet, and -place them in a hole made in the crust at -the top: this shows what kind of pie it -is. Glaze the crust,—that is to say, -brush it over with the yolk of an egg,—and -bake it in a well-heated oven for -about 1¼ hour. When liked, a seasoning -of pounded mace may be added. -<i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour, or rather less. <i>Average -cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>PIGEONS, Broiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, -pepper and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and -carefully pluck, draw, and wash them; -split the backs, rub the birds over with -butter, season them with pepper and -salt, and broil them over a moderate -fire for ¼ hour or 20 minutes. Serve very -hot, with either mushroom-sauce or a -good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly -boiled, and served with parsley and -butter; they should be trussed like -boiled fowls, and take from ¼ hour to -20 minutes to boil. <i>Time.</i>—To broil a -pigeon, from ¼ hour to 20 minutes; -to boil one, the same time. <i>Average cost</i>, -from 6<i>d.</i> to 9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> from -April to September, but in the greatest -perfection from Midsummer to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>PIGEONS, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, -pepper and salt to taste. <i>Trussing.</i>—Pigeons, -to be good, should be eaten -fresh (if kept a little, the flavour goes -off), and they should be drawn as soon -as killed. Cut off the heads and necks, -truss the wings over the backs, and cut -off the toes at the first joint: previous to -trussing, they should be carefully cleaned, -as no bird requires so much washing. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wipe the birds very dry, season -them inside with pepper and salt, and -put about ¾ oz. of butter into the body -of each: this makes them moist. Place -them at a bright fire, and baste them -well the whole of the time they are -cooking (they will be done enough in -from 20 to 30 minutes); garnish with -fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of -parsley and butter. Bread sauce and -gravy, the same as for roast fowl, are -exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast -pigeons, as also egg-sauce. <i>Time.</i>—From -20 minutes to ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> -to 9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> from April to -September; but in the greatest perfection -from Midsummer to Michaelmas.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 252px;"> -<img src="images/illus-252.jpg" width="252" height="106" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST PIGEON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PIGEONS, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 pigeons, a few slices of -bacon, 3 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls -of minced parsley, sufficient stock to -cover the pigeons, thickening of butter -and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom -ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine. -<i>Mode.</i>—Empty and clean the pigeons -thoroughly, mince the livers, add to -these the parsley and butter, and put it -into the insides of the birds. Truss -them with the legs inward, and put them -into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon -placed under and over them; add the -stock, and stew gently for rather more -than ½ hour. Dish the pigeons, strain -the gravy, thicken it with butter and -flour, add the ketchup and port wine, -give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> to 9<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -April to September.</p> - - -<h3>PIKE, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate -stuffing (<i>see</i> <a href="#FORCEMEATS">Forcemeats</a>), 1 egg, -bread-crumbs, ¼ lb. butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale -the fish, take out the gills, wash, -and wipe it thoroughly dry; stuff it -with forcemeat, sew it up, and fasten -the tail in the mouth by means of a -skewer; brush it over with egg, sprinkle -with bread-crumbs, and baste with -butter, before putting it in the oven, -which must be well heated. When the -pike is of a nice brown colour, cover -it with buttered paper, as the outside -would become too dry. If 2 are dressed, -a little variety may be made by making -one of them green with a little chopped -parsley mixed with the bread-crumbs. -Serve anchovy or Dutch sauce, and plain -melted butter with it. <i>Time.</i>—According -to size, 1 hour, more or less. <i>Average -cost.</i>—Seldom bought. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Pike <i>à la genévése</i> may be -stewed in the same manner as salmon <i>à -la genévése</i>.</p> - - -<h3>PIKE, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each -gallon of water; a little vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale -and clean the pike, and fasten -the tail in its mouth by means of a -skewer. Lay it in cold water, and when -it boils, throw in the salt and vinegar.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span> -The time for boiling depends, of course, -on the size of the fish; but a middling-sized -pike will take about ½ an hour. -Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and -plain melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—According -to size, ½ to 1 hour. <i>Average cost.</i>—Seldom -bought. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - - -<h3>PILLAU FOWL, based on M. Soyer’s -Recipe (an Indian Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, -a fowl, 2 quarts of stock or good -broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, ½ oz. of coriander-seed, -¼ oz. of cloves, ¼ oz. of -allspice, ¼ oz. of mace, ¼ oz. of cinnamon, -½ oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin -slices of bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Well wash 1 lb. of the best -Patna rice, put it into a frying-pan with -the butter, which keep moving over -a slow fire until the rice is lightly -browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, -put it into a stewpan with the stock -or broth; pound the spices and seeds -thoroughly in a mortar, tie them in -a piece of muslin, and put them in with -the fowl. Let it boil slowly until it -is nearly done; then add the rice, which -should stew until quite tender and almost -dry; cut the onions into slices, sprinkle -them with flour, and fry, without breaking -them, of a nice brown colour. Have -ready the slices of bacon curled and -grilled, and the eggs boiled hard. Lay -the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a -dish, smother with the rice, garnish with -the bacon, fried onions, and the hard-boiled -eggs cut into quarters, and serve -very hot. Before taking the rice out, -remove the spices. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to -stew the fowl without the rice; ½ hour -with it. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>PINEAPPLE CHIPS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pineapples; sugar to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and slice the fruit -thinly, put it on dishes, and strew over -it plenty of pounded sugar. Keep it in -a hot closet, or very slow oven, 8 or 10 -days, and turn the fruit every day until -dry; then put the pieces of pine on tins, -and place them in a quick oven for 10 -minutes. Let them cool, and store them -away in dry boxes, with paper between -each layer. <i>Time.</i>—8 to 10 days. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Foreign -pines, in July and -August.</p> - - -<h3>PINEAPPLE FRITTERS (an -elegant dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A small pineapple, a -small wineglassful of brandy or liqueur, -2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for <a href="#APPLE_FRITTERS">apple -fritters</a>, which see. <i>Mode.</i>—This elegant -dish, although it may appear extravagant, -is really not so if made when pineapples -are plentiful. We receive them -now in such large quantities from the -West Indies, that at times they may be -purchased at an exceedingly low rate; -it would not, of course, be economical -to use the pines which are grown in our -English pineries for the purposes of -fritters. Pare the pine with as little -waste as possible, cut it into rather thin -slices, and soak these slices in the above -proportion of brandy or liqueur and -pounded sugar for 4 hours; then make a -batter the same as for apple fritters, -substituting cream for the milk, and -using a smaller quantity of flour; when -this is ready, dip in the pieces of -pine, and fry them in boiling lard from -5 to 8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently -brown on one side, and, when -done, drain them from the lard before -the fire, dish them on a white d’oyley, -strew over them sifted sugar, and serve -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—5 to 8 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, when cheap and plentiful, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> for the pine. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>PINEAPPLE, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit, -weighed after being pared, allow 1 lb. of -loaf sugar; ¼ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—The -pines for making this preserve should -be perfectly sound but ripe. Cut them -into rather thick slices, as the fruit -shrinks very much in the boiling. Pare -off the rind carefully, that none of the -pine be wasted; and, in doing so, notch -it in and out, as the edge cannot be -smoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve -a portion of the sugar in a preserving-pan -with ¼ pint of water; when this -is melted, gradually add the remainder -of the sugar, and boil it until it forms a -clear syrup, skimming well. As soon as -this is the case, put in the pieces of pine, -and boil well for at least ½ hour, or until -it looks nearly transparent. Put it into -pots, cover down when cold, and store<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> -away in a dry place. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to -boil the fruit. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> -per lb. pot. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Foreign pines, -in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>PINEAPPLE, Preserved, for present -use.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pineapple, sugar, water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the pine into slices ¼ inch -in thickness; peel them, and remove the -hard part from the middle. Put the -parings and hard pieces into a stewpan, -with sufficient water to cover them, and -boil for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, and -put in the slices of pine. Stew them for -10 minutes, add sufficient sugar to -sweeten the whole nicely, and boil again -for another ¼ hour; skim well, and the -preserve will be ready for use. It must -be eaten soon, as it will keep but a very -short time. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to boil the -parings in water; 10 minutes to boil the -pine without sugar, ¼ hour with sugar. -<i>Average cost.</i>—Foreign pines, 1<i>s.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> -each; English, from 2<i>s.</i> to 12<i>s.</i> per lb. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Foreign, in July and August; -English, all the year.</p> - - -<h3>PIPPINS, Normandy, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of Normandy pippins, -1 quart of water, ½ teaspoonful of -powdered cinnamon, ½ teaspoonful of -ground ginger, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Well wash the pippins, -and put them into 1 quart of water with -the above proportion of cinnamon and -ginger, and let them stand 12 hours; -then put these all together into a stewpan, -with the lemon sliced thinly, and -half the moist sugar. Let them boil -slowly until the pippins are half done; -then add the remainder of the sugar, -and simmer until they are quite tender. -Serve on glass dishes for dessert. <i>Time.</i>—2 -to 3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable for a winter dish.</p> - - -<h3>PLAICE, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Hot lard, or clarified -dripping; egg and bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—This fish is fried in the same -manner as soles. Wash and wipe them -thoroughly dry, and let them remain in -a cloth until it is time to dress them. -Brush them over with egg, and cover -with bread-crumbs mixed with a little -flour. Fry of a nice brown in hot dripping -or lard, and garnish with fried parsley -and cut lemon. Send them to table -with shrimp-sauce and plain melted -butter. <i>Time.</i>—About 5 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> from -May to November. <i>Sufficient</i>, 4 plaice -for 4 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Plaice may be boiled plain, -and served with melted butter. Garnish -with parsley and cut lemon.</p> - - -<h3>PLAICE, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, -½ oz. ground ginger, 1 pint of lemon-juice, -¼ pint water, 6 eggs; cayenne to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fish into pieces -about 2 inches wide, salt them, and let -them remain ¼ hour. Slice and fry the -onions a light brown; put them in a -stewpan, on the top of which put the -fish without washing, and add the ginger, -lemon-juice, and water. Cook slowly -for ½ hour, and do not let the fish boil, -or it will break. Take it out, and when -the liquor is cool, add 6 well-beaten eggs; -simmer till it thickens, when pour over -the fish, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> from May to November. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons; according to -the size of the fish.</p> - - -<h3>PLOVERS, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>Plovers may be carved like quails or -woodcock, being trussed and served in -the same way as those birds.</p> - - -<h3>PLOVERS, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 plovers, butter, flour, -toasted bread. <i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Choose -those that feel hard at the vent, -as that shows their fatness. There are -three sorts,—the grey, green, and bastard -plover, or lapwing. They will keep -good for some time, but if very stale, -the feet will be very dry. Plovers are -scarcely fit for anything but roasting; -they are, however, sometimes stewed, or -made into a ragoût, but this mode of -cooking is not to be recommended. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pluck off the feathers, wipe -the outside of the birds with a damp -cloth, and do not draw them; truss with -the head under the wing, put them down -to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened -toast in the dripping-pan, to catch the -trail. Keep them <i>well basted</i>, dredge -them lightly with flour a few minutes -before they are done, and let them be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span> -nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, -over which the <i>traill</i> should be equally -spread. Pour round the toast a little -good gravy, and send some to table in a -tureen. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to ¼ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> the brace, if plentiful. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 2 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—In -perfection from the beginning -of September to the end of January.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM CAKE, Common.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of -butter or good dripping, 6 oz. of moist -sugar, 6 oz. of currants, ½ oz. of pounded -allspice, 2 tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, -1 pint of new milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the -butter into the flour; add the sugar, -currants, and allspice; warm the milk, -stir to it the yeast, and mix the whole -into a dough; knead it well, and put it -into 6 buttered tins; place them near the -fire for nearly an hour for the dough to -rise, then bake the cakes in a good oven -from 1 to 1¼ hour. To ascertain when -they are done, plunge a clean knife into -the middle, and if on withdrawal it comes -out clean, the cakes are done. <i>Time.</i>—1 -to 1¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 6 small cakes.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM CAKE, a Nice.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -butter, ½ lb. of sugar, ½ lb. of currants, -2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, ½ pint of -milk, 1 teaspoonful of ammonia or carbonate -of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour -into a basin with the sugar, currants, -and sliced candied peel; beat the butter -to a cream, and mix all these ingredients -together with the milk. Stir the ammonia -into 2 tablespoonfuls of milk; add -it to the dough, and beat the whole well, -until everything is thoroughly mixed. -Put the dough into a buttered tin, and -bake the cake from 1½ to 2 hours. <i>Time.</i>—1½<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">to 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i></span><br /> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of plums, -weighed before being stoned, allow ¾ lb. -of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—In making plum -jam, the quantity of sugar for each lb. -of fruit must be regulated by the quality -and size of the fruit, some plums requiring -much more sugar than others. Divide -the plums, take out the stones, and put -them on to large dishes, with roughly-pounded -sugar sprinkled over them in -the above proportion, and let them remain -for one day; then put them into a -preserving-pan, stand them by the side -of the fire to simmer gently for about ½ -hour, and then boil them rapidly for -another 15 minutes. The scum must be -carefully removed as it rises, and the -jam must be well stirred all the time, or -it will burn at the bottom of the pan, -and so spoil the colour and flavour of the -preserve. Some of the stones may be -cracked, and a few kernels added to the -jam just before it is done: these impart -a very delicious flavour to the plums. -The above proportion of sugar would -answer for Orleans plums; the Impératrice, -Magnum-bonum, and Winesour -would not require quite so much. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour to simmer gently, ¼ hour to boil -rapidly. <i>Best plums for preserving.</i>—Violets, -Mussels, Orleans, Impératrice, -Magnum-bonum, and Winesour. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the end of July to the beginning -of October.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of -currants, 1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of suet, -2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of -candied peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the suet -finely; mix it with the flour, currants, -stoned raisins, and candied peel; moisten -with the well-beaten eggs, and add sufficient -milk to make the pudding of the -consistency of very thick batter. Put it -into a buttered dish, and bake in a good -oven from 2¼ to 2½ hours; turn it out, -strew sifted sugar over, and serve. For -a very plain pudding, use only half the -quantity of fruit, omit the eggs, and substitute -milk or water for them. The -above ingredients make a large family -pudding; for a small one, half the quantity -will be found ample; but it must be -baked quite 1½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—Large -pudding, 2¼ to 2½ hours; half the size, -1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 9 or 10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in -winter.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING, Excellent, made -without Eggs.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of flour, 6 oz. of -raisins, 6 oz. of currants, ¼ lb. of chopped -suet, ¼ lb. of brown sugar, ¼ lb. of -mashed carrot, ¼ lb. of mashed potatoes, -1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1 oz. of candied -lemon-peel, 1 oz. of candied citron. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mix the flour, currants, suet and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span> -sugar well together; have ready the -above proportions of mashed carrot and -potato, which stir into the other ingredients; -add the treacle and lemon-peel; -but put no liquid in the mixture, or it -will be spoiled. Tie it loosely in a cloth, -or, if put in a basin, do not quite fill it, -as the pudding should have room to -swell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with -brandy-sauce. This pudding is better -for being mixed over-night. <i>Time.</i>—4 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in -winter.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING, Unrivalled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of muscatel -raisins, 1¾ lb. of currants, 1 lb. of sultana -raisins, 2 lbs. of the finest moist -sugar, 2 lbs. of bread-crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 -lbs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of -mixed candied peel, the rind of 2 lemons, -1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz. of ground -cinnamon, ½ oz. of pounded bitter almonds, -¼ pint of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Stone -and cut up the raisins, but do not chop -them; wash and dry the currants, and -cut the candied peel into thin slices. -Mix all the dry ingredients well together, -and moisten with the eggs, which should -be well beaten and strained, to the pudding; -stir in the brandy, and, when all -is thoroughly mixed, well butter and -flour a stout new pudding-cloth; put in -the pudding, tie it down very tightly -and closely, boil from 6 to 8 hours, -and serve with brandy-sauce. A few -sweet almonds, blanched and cut in -strips, and stuck on the pudding, ornament -it prettily. This quantity may be -divided and boiled in buttered moulds. -For small families this is the most desirable -way, as the above will be found to -make a pudding of rather large dimensions. -<i>Time.</i>—6 to 8 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 12 or 14 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The muscatel raisins can be -purchased at a cheap rate loose (not in -bunches): they are then scarcely higher -in price than the ordinary raisins, and -impart a much richer flavour to the -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING, a Plain Christmas, -for Children.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of -bread-crumbs, ¾ lb. of stoned raisins, ¾ -lb. of currants, ¾ lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, -milk, 2 oz. of candied peel, 1 teaspoonful -of powdered allspice, ½ saltspoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the suet be finely -chopped, the raisins stoned, and the currants -well washed, picked and dried. -Mix these with the other dry ingredients, -and stir all well together; beat and -strain the eggs to the pudding, stir these -in, and add just sufficient milk to make -it mix properly. Tie it up in a well-floured -cloth, put it into boiling water, -and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve -with a sprig of holly placed in the middle -of the pudding, and a little pounded -sugar sprinkled over it. <i>Time.</i>—5 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 9 or -10 children. <i>Seasonable</i> at Christmas.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING, Christmas (very -good).</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"> -<img src="images/illus-256.jpg" width="310" height="217" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING IN MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of raisins, ½ lb. of -currants, ½ lb. of mixed peel, ¾ lb. of bread-crumbs, -¾ lb. of suet, 8 eggs, l wineglassful -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Stone and cut the raisins -in halves, but do not chop them; wash, -pick, and dry the currants, and mince -the suet finely; cut the candied peel into -thin slices, and grate down the bread -into fine crumbs. When all these dry ingredients -are prepared, mix them well -together; then moisten the mixture with -the eggs, which should be well beaten, -and the brandy; stir well, that everything -may be very thoroughly blended, -and <i>press</i> the pudding into a buttered -mould; tie it down tightly with a floured -cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It may -be boiled in a cloth without a mould, and -will require the same time allowed for -cooking. As Christmas puddings are -usually made a few days before they are -required for table, when the pudding is -taken out of the pot, hang it up immediately, -and put a plate or saucer underneath -to catch the water that may drain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span> -from it. The day it is to be eaten, -plunge it into boiling water, and keep it -boiling for at least 2 hours; then turn -it out of the mould, and serve -with brandy-sauce. On Christmas-day a -sprig of holly is usually placed in the -middle of the pudding, and about a wineglassful -of brandy poured round it, -which, at the moment of serving, is -lighted, and the pudding thus brought -to table encircled in flame. <i>Time.</i>—5 or -6 hours the first time of boiling; 2 hours -the day it is to be served. <i>Average cost</i>, -4<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a quart mould for 7 or -8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> on the 25th of -December, and on various festive occasions -till March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Five or six of these puddings -should be made at one time, as they will -keep good for many weeks, and in cases -where unexpected guests arrive, will be -found an acceptable and, as it only requires -warming through, a quickly-prepared -dish. Moulds of every shape -and size are manufactured for these puddings, -and may be purchased of Messrs. -R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING (a Pound).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of -currants, 1 lb. of stoned raisins, 8 eggs, -½ grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied -peel, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger, ½ -lb. of bread-crumbs, ½ lb. of flour, ½ pint -of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the suet finely; -mix with it the dry ingredients; stir -these well together, and add the well-beaten -eggs and milk to moisten -with. Beat up the mixture well, and -should the above proportion of milk not -be found sufficient to make it of the proper -consistency, a little more should be -added. Press the pudding into a mould, -tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for -five hours, or rather longer, and serve -with brandy-sauce. <i>Time.</i>—5 hours, or -longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 288px;"> -<img src="images/illus-257a.jpg" width="288" height="217" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BAKED PUDDING, OR CAKE-MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The above pudding may be -baked instead of boiled; it should be -put into a buttered mould or tin, and -baked for about 2 hours; a smaller one -would take about 1¼ hour.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM PUDDING (Fresh Fruit).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of suet crust, 1½ -pint of Orleans or any other kind of -plum, ¼ lb. of moist sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Line -a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled -out to the thickness of about ½ inch; fill -the basin with the fruit, put in the -sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the -edges over, and pinch them together, to -prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a -floured cloth, put the pudding into boiling -water, and boil from 2 to 2½ hours. -Turn it out of the basin, and serve -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—2 to 2½ hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i>, with various kinds of plums, -from the beginning of August to the beginning -of October.</p> - - -<h3>PLUM TART.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of good short crust, -1½ pint of plums, 1 lb. of moist sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Line the edges of a deep tart-dish -with crust; fill the dish with plums, -and place a small cup or jar, upside -down, in the midst of them. Put in the -sugar, cover the pie with crust, ornament -the edges, and bake in a good -oven from ½ to ¾ hour. When puff-crust -is preferred to short crust, use that -made by the given recipe, and glaze the -top by brushing it over with the white -of an egg beaten to a stiff froth with a -knife; sprinkle over a little sifted sugar, -and put the pie in the oven to set the -glaze. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i>, with various kinds of plums, -from the beginning of August to the -beginning of October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"> -<img src="images/illus-257b.jpg" width="254" height="90" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">PLUM TART.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>PLUMS, French, Stewed (a Dessert -dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of French plums, -¾ pint of syrup, 1 glass of port wine, the -rind and juice of 1 lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Stew -the plums gently in water for 1 hour; -strain the water, and with it make the -syrup. When it is clear, put in the -plums with the port wine, lemon-juice, -and rind, and simmer very gently for 1½ -hour. Arrange the plums on a glass -dish, take out the lemon-rind, pour the -syrup over the plums, and, when cold, -they will be ready for table. A little -allspice stewed with the fruit is by many -persons considered an improvement. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour to stew the plums in -water, 1½ hour in the syrup. <i>Average -cost</i>, plums sufficiently good for stewing, -1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>PLUMS (Preserved).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit -allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar; for the thin -syrup, ¼ lb. of sugar to each pint of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Select large ripe plums; -slightly prick them, to prevent them -from bursting, and simmer them very -gently in a syrup made with the above -proportion of sugar and water. Put -them carefully into a pan, let the syrup -cool, pour it over the plums, and allow -them to remain for two days. Having -previously weighed the other sugar, dip -the lumps quickly into water, and put -them into a preserving-pan with no more -water than hangs about them; and boil -the sugar to a syrup, carefully skimming -it. Drain the plums from the first syrup; -put them into the fresh syrup, and simmer -them very gently until they are -clear; lift them out singly into pots, -pour the syrup over, and, when cold, -cover down to exclude the air. This -preserve will remain good some time, -if kept in a dry place, and makes a -very nice addition to a dessert. The -magnum-bonum plums answer for this -preserve better than any other kind -of plum. Greengages are also very -delicious done in this manner. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour to 20 minutes to simmer the -plums in the first syrup; 20 minutes -to ½ hour very gentle simmering in the -second. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -October.</p> - - -<h3>PLUMS, to Preserve Dry.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of sugar -allow ¼ pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Gather -the plums when they are full grown and -just turning colour; prick them, put -them into a saucepan of cold water, and -set them on the fire until the water is on -the point of boiling. Then take them -out, drain them, and boil them gently -in syrup made with the above proportion -of sugar and water; and if the plums -shrink, and will not take the sugar, -prick them as they lie in the pan; give -them another boil, skim, and set them -by. The next day add some more -sugar, boiled almost to candy, to the -fruit and syrup; put all together into a -wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a -cool oven for 2 nights; then drain the -plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little -powdered sugar over, and dry them in a -cool oven. <i>Time.</i>—15 to 20 minutes to -boil the plums in the syrup. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to October.</p> - - -<h3>PORK.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 169px;"> -<img src="images/illus-259.jpg" width="169" height="463" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">SIDE OF A PIG, -SHOWING THE -SEVERAL JOINTS</div> -</div> -<p>In the country, where, for ordinary -consumption, the pork killed for sale is -usually both larger and fatter than that -supplied to the London consumer, it is -customary to remove the skin and fat -down to the lean, and, salting that, roast -what remains of the joint. Pork goes -further, and is consequently a more -economical food, than other meats, simply -because the texture is closer, and there -is less waste in the cooking, either in -roasting or boiling.</p> - -<p>In fresh pork, the leg is the most -economical family joint, and the loin the -richest.</p> - - -<p>Pork, to be preserved, is cured in -several ways,—either by covering it with -salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, -where it is kept till required; or it is -only partially salted, and then hung up -to dry, when the meat is called white -bacon; or, after salting, it is hung in -wood smoke till the flesh is impregnated -with the aroma from the wood. The -Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded as -the finest in the kingdom, is prepared -by laying the sides of a hog in large -wooden troughs, and then rubbing into -the flesh quantities of powdered bay-salt, -made hot in a frying-pan. This -process is repeated for four days; they -are then left for three weeks, merely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> -turning the flitches every other day, -After that time they are hung up to dry. -The hogs usually killed for purposes of -bacon in England average from 18 to -20 stone; on the other hand, the hogs -killed in the country -for farm-house purposes, -seldom weigh -less than 26 stone. -The legs of boars, -hogs, and, in Germany, -those of bears, -are prepared differently, -and called -hams.</p> - -<p>The practice in -vogue formerly in this -country was to cut -out the hams and cure -them separately; then -to remove the ribs, -which were roasted -as “spare-ribs,” and, -curing the remainder -of the side, call it a -“gammon of bacon.”</p> - - - -<p>Small pork to cut -for table in joints, is -cut up, in most places -throughout the kingdom, -as represented -in the engraving. The -side is divided with -nine ribs to the fore -quarter; and the following is an enumeration -of the joints in the two respective -quarters:—</p> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="cuts"> -<tr><td align="left" rowspan="3"><span class="smcap">Hind Quarter</span>—</td><td align="left" class="btlb" rowspan="3"> </td><td align="left">1. The leg.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">2. The loin.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">3. The spring, or belly.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" rowspan="3"><span class="smcap">Fore Quarter</span>—</td><td align="left" rowspan="3" class="btlb"> </td><td align="left">4. The hand.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">5. The fore-loin.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6. The cheek.</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>The weight of the several joints of a -good pork pig of four stone may be as -follows; viz.:—</p> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="pork weights"> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The leg</td><td align="right">8</td><td align="left"> lbs.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The loin and spring</td><td align="right">7</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The hand</td><td align="right">6</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The chine</td><td align="right">7</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">The cheek</td><td align="left"> from 2 to </td><td align="right">3</td><td align="center">“</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for -curing, and when cured are called hams: -when the meat is separated from the -shoulder-blade and bones and cured, it -is called bacon. The bones, with part of -the meat left on them, are divided into -spare-ribs, griskins, and chines.</p> - - -<h3>PORK CHEESE (an Excellent -Breakfast Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of cold roast pork, -pepper and salt to taste, 1 dessertspoonful -of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a -very small bunch of savoury herbs, 2 -blades of pounded mace, a little nutmeg, -½ teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; -good strong gravy, sufficient to fill the -mould. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut, but do not chop, -the pork into fine pieces, and allow ¼ lb. -of fat to each pound of lean. Season -with pepper and salt; pound well the -spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, -herbs, and lemon-peel, and mix the -whole nicely together. Put it into a -mould, fill up with good strong well-flavoured -gravy, and bake rather more -than one hour. When cold, turn it out -of the mould. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -1 hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from October to -March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of a pig’s head, -after the chops are taken off, make most -excellent pork cheese.</p> - - -<h3>PORK CUTLETS, or Chops.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Loin of pork, pepper -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cutlets -from a delicate loin of pork, bone -and trim them neatly, and cut away the -greater portion of the fat. Season them -with pepper; place the gridiron on the -fire; when quite hot, lay on the chops, -and broil them for about ¼ hour, turning -them 3 or 4 times; and be particular -that they are <i>thoroughly</i> done, but not -dry. Dish them, sprinkle over a little -fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato -sauce, sauce piquante, or pickled gherkins, -a few of which should be laid round -the dish as a garnish. <i>Time.</i>—About ¼ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. for -chops. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 6 for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from October to -March.</p> - - -<h3>PORK CUTLETS, or Chops.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Loin, or fore-loin, of -pork, egg and bread-crumbs, salt and -pepper to taste; to every tablespoonful -of bread-crumbs allow ½ teaspoonful of -minced sage; clarified butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the cutlets from a loin, or fore-loin, -of pork; trim them the same as mutton -cutlets, and scrape the top part of the -bone. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle -with bread-crumbs, with which have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> -been mixed minced sage and a seasoning -of pepper and salt; drop a little clarified -butter on them, and press the crumbs -well down. Put the frying-pan on the -fire, put in some lard; when this is hot, -lay in the cutlets, and fry them a light -brown on both sides. Take them out, -put them before the fire to dry the -greasy moisture from them, and dish -them on mashed potatoes. Serve with -them any sauce that may be preferred; -such as tomato sauce, sauce piquante, -sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins. -<i>Time.</i>—From 15 to 20 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. for chops. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -6 cutlets for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of roast loin of -pork may be dressed in the same -manner.</p> - - -<h3>PORK CUTLETS.</h3> - -<p>[<span class="smcap">Cold Meat Cookery.</span>] <i>Ingredients.</i>—The -remains of cold roast loin of pork, -1 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, ½ pint of gravy, pepper and -salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar -and mustard. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the pork into -nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the -fat, and chop the onions. Put the butter -into a stewpan, lay in the cutlets and -chopped onions, and fry a light brown; -then add the remaining ingredients, -simmer gently for 5 or 7 minutes, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—5 to 7 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March.</p> - - -<h3>PORK, Roast Griskin of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 282px;"> -<img src="images/illus-260a.jpg" width="282" height="154" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SPARE-RIB OF PORK.</div> -</div> -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pork; a little powdered -sage. <i>Mode.</i>—As this joint frequently -comes to table hard and dry, particular -care should be taken that it is well -basted. Put it down to a bright fire, -and flour it. About 10 minutes before -taking it up, sprinkle over some powdered -sage; make a little gravy in the -dripping-pan, strain it over the meat, -and serve with a tureen of apple sauce. -This joint will be done in far less time -than when the skin is left on, consequently, -should have the greatest attention -that it be not dried up. <i>Time.</i>—Griskin -of pork weighing 6 lbs., 1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 226px;"> -<img src="images/illus-260b.jpg" width="226" height="86" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">GRISKIN OF PORK.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A spare-rib of pork is roasted -in the same manner as above, and would -take 1½ hour for one weighing about -6 lbs.</p> - - -<h3>PORK, Hashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -roast pork, 2 onions, 1 teaspoonful of -flour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 -cloves, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, ½ pint -of gravy, pepper and salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Chop the onions and fry them -of a nice brown; cut the pork into thin -slices, season them with pepper and salt, -and add these to the remaining ingredients. -Stew gently for about ½ hour, -and serve garnished with sippets of -toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the meat, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March.</p> - - -<h3>PORK, Boiled Leg of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Leg of pork; salt. <i>Mode.</i>—For -boiling, choose a small, compact, -well-filled leg, and rub it well with salt; -let it remain in pickle for a week or -ten days, turning and rubbing it every -day. An hour before dressing it, put it -into cold water for an hour, which improves -the colour. If the pork is purchased -ready salted, ascertain how long -the meat has been in pickle, and soak -it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, -with sufficient cold water to cover it; -let it gradually come to a boil, and remove -the scum as it rises. Simmer it -very gently until tender, and do not -allow it to boil fast, or the knuckle will -fall to pieces before the middle of the -leg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips -may be boiled with the pork, some -of which should be laid round the dish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span> -as a garnish. A well-made pease-pudding -is an indispensable accompaniment. -<i>Time.</i>—A leg of pork weighing -8 lbs., 3 hours after the water boils, and -to be simmered very gently. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The liquor in which a leg of -pork has been boiled makes excellent -pea-soup.</p> - - -<h3>PORK, Roast Leg of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Leg of pork, a little, -oil, sage and onion stuffing. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -a small leg of pork, and -score the skin across in narrow strips, -about ¼ inch -apart. Cut a -slit in the -knuckle, -loosen the -skin, and fill -it with a sage-and-onion -stuffing. -Brush the joint over with a little salad-oil -(this makes the crackling crisper, and -a better colour), and put it down to a -bright, clear fire, not too near, as that -would cause the skin to blister. Baste -it well, and serve with a little gravy -made in the dripping-pan, and do not -omit to send to table with it a tureen of -well-made apple sauce. <i>Time.</i>—A leg -of pork weighing 8 lbs., about 3 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 223px;"> -<img src="images/illus-261a.jpg" width="223" height="115" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST LEG OF PORK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PORK, Leg of, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>This joint, which is such a favourite -one with many people, is easy to carve. -The knife -should be carried -sharply -down to the -bone, clean -through the -crackling, in -the direction -of the line 1 to -2. Sage and -onion and apple sauce are usually sent -to table with this dish,—sometimes the -leg of pork is stuffed,—and the guests -should be asked if they will have either -or both. A frequent plan, and we -think a good one, is now pursued, of -sending sage and onion to table separately -from the joint, as it is not everybody -to whom the flavour of this stuffing -is agreeable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 204px;"> -<img src="images/illus-261b.jpg" width="204" height="119" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">LEG OF PORK.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The other dishes of pork do -not call for any special remarks as to -their carving or helping.</p> - - -<h3>PORK, Roast Loin of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 231px;"> -<img src="images/illus-261c.jpg" width="231" height="89" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FORE LOIN OF PORK.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pork; a little salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Score the skin in strips rather -more than ¼ inch apart, and place the -joint at a good distance from the fire, on -account of the crackling, which would -harden before the meat would be heated -through, were it placed too near. If -very lean, it should be rubbed over with -a little salad oil, and kept well basted all -the time it is at the fire. Pork should -be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry; -and be careful never to send it to table -the least underdone, as nothing is more -unwholesome and disagreeable than -under-dressed white meats. Serve with -apple sauce and a little gravy made in -the dripping-pan. A stuffing of sage -and onion may be made separately, and -baked in a flat dish: this method is -better than putting it in the meat, as -many persons have so great an objection -to the flavour. <i>Time.</i>—A loin of pork -weighing 5 lbs., about 2 hours: allow -more time should it be very fat. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"> -<img src="images/illus-261d.jpg" width="237" height="84" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">HIND LOIN OF PORK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PORK, to Pickle.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of saltpetre; salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—As pork does not keep long -without being salted, cut it into pieces -of a suitable size as soon as the pig is -cold. Rub the pieces of pork well with -salt, and put them into a pan with a -sprinkling of it between each piece: as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span> -it melts on the top, strew on more. -Lay a coarse cloth over the pan, a board -over that, and a weight on the board, -to keep the pork down in the brine. If -excluded from the air, it will continue -good for nearly 2 years. <i>Average cost</i>, -10<i>d.</i> per lb. for the prime parts. <i>Seasonable.</i>—The -best time for pickling meat is -late in the autumn.</p> - - -<h3>PORK, Pickled, to Boil.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Pork; water. <i>Mode.</i>—Should -the pork be very salt, let it remain -in water about 2 hours before it is -dressed; put it into a saucepan with -sufficient cold water to cover it, let it -gradually come to a boil, then gently -simmer until quite tender. Allow ample -time for it to cook, as nothing is more -disagreeable than underdone pork, and -when boiled fast, the meat becomes -hard. This is sometimes served with -boiled poultry and roast veal, instead of -bacon: when tender, and not over salt, -it will be found equally good. <i>Time.</i>—A -piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs., -1¼ hour; 4 lbs., rather more than 2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. for the -primest parts. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PORK PIES (Warwickshire Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For the crust, 5 lbs. of -lard to 14 lbs. of flour; milk, and water. -For filling the pies, to every 3 lbs. of -meat allow 1 oz. of salt, 2¼ oz. of pepper, -a small quantity of cayenne, 1 pint of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub into the flour a portion -of the lard; the remainder put with -sufficient milk and water to mix the -crust, and boil this gently for ¼ hour. -Pour it boiling on the flour, and knead -and beat it till perfectly smooth. Now -raise the crust in either a round or -oval form, cut up the pork into pieces -the size of a nut, season it in the above -proportion, and press it compactly into -the pie, in alternate layers of fat and -lean, and pour in a small quantity of -water; lay on the lid, cut the edges -smoothly round, and pinch them together. -Bake in a brick oven, which -should be slow, as the meat is very solid. -Very frequently, an inexperienced cook -finds much difficulty in raising the -crust. She should bear in mind that it -must not be allowed to get cold, or it -will fall immediately: to prevent this, -the operation should be performed as -near the fire as possible. As considerable -dexterity and expertness are necessary -to raise the crust with the hand -only, a glass bottle or small jar may be -placed in the middle of the paste, and -the crust moulded on this; but be particular -that it is kept warm the whole -time. <i>Sufficient.</i>—The proportions for 1 -pie are 1 lb. of flour and 3 lbs. of meat. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to March.</p> - - -<h3>PORK PIES, Little Raised.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of flour, ½ lb. of -butter, ½ lb. of mutton suet, salt and -white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of the neck -of pork, 1 dessertspoonful of powdered -sage. <i>Mode.</i>—Well dry the flour, mince -the suet, and put these with the butter -into a saucepan, to be made hot, and add -a little salt. When melted, mix it up -into a stiff paste, and put it before the -fire with a cloth over it until ready to -make up; chop the pork into small -pieces, season it with white pepper, salt, -and powdered sage; divide the paste -into rather small pieces, raise it in a -round or oval form, fill with the meat, -and bake in a brick oven. These pies -will require a fiercer oven than those in -the preceding recipe, as they are made -so much smaller, and consequently do -not require so soaking a heat. <i>Time.</i>—If -made small, about 1½ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to March.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, -2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ditto of -raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful -of lemon-juice, ½ teaspoonful of grated -nutmeg, hot lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the potatoes, -and beat them up lightly with a -fork, but do not use a spoon, as that -would make them heavy. Beat the eggs -well, leaving out one of the whites; add -the other ingredients, and beat all together -for at least 20 minutes, or until -the batter is extremely light. Put plenty -of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop -a tablespoonful of the batter at a time -into it, and fry the fritters a nice brown. -Serve them with the following sauce:—A -glass of sherry mixed with the strained -juice of a lemon, and sufficient white -sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. -Warm these ingredients, and serve the -sauce separately in a tureen. The fritters -should be neatly dished on a white -d’oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span> -over them. They should be well drained -on a piece of blotting-paper before -the fire previously to being dished. -<i>Time.</i>—From 6 to 8 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO PASTY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of rump-steak or -mutton cutlets, pepper and salt to taste, -1/3 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. of -butter, mashed potatoes. <i>Mode.</i>—Place -the meat, cut in small pieces, at the -bottom of the pan; season it with pepper -and salt, and add the gravy and -butter broken into small pieces. Put on -the perforated plate, with its valve-pipe -screwed on, and fill up the whole space -to the top of the tube with nicely-mashed -potatoes mixed with a little milk, and -finish the surface of them in any ornamental -manner. If carefully baked, the -potatoes will be covered with a delicate -brown crust, retaining all the savoury -steam rising from the meat. Send it to -table as it comes from the oven, with a -napkin folded round it. <i>Time.</i>—40 to 60 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 290px;"> -<img src="images/illus-263a.jpg" width="290" height="164" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">POTATO-PASTY PAN.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>POTATO PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of mashed potatoes, -2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, ¼ pint of milk, -3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, ¼ saltspoonful -of salt, the juice and rind of 1 small -lemon, 2 oz. of sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -sufficient potatoes to make ½ lb. when -mashed; add to these the butter, eggs, -milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; -mince the lemon-peel very finely, and -beat all the ingredients well together. -Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, -and bake for rather more than -½ hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded -almonds, and increase the quantity of -eggs and butter. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour, or -rather longer. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO RISSOLES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Mashed potatoes, salt -and pepper to taste; when liked, a very -little minced parsley, egg, and bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil and mash the -potatoes; add a seasoning of pepper -and salt, and, when liked, a little minced -parsley. Roll the potatoes into small -balls, cover them with egg and bread-crumbs, -and fry in hot lard for about 10 -minutes; let them drain before the fire, -dish them on a napkin, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes to fry the rissoles. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"> -<img src="images/illus-263b.jpg" width="237" height="48" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">POTATO RISSOLES.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The flavour of these rissoles -may be very much increased by adding -finely-minced tongue or ham, or even -chopped onions, when these are liked.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO SALAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, -4 tablespoonfuls of tarragon or -plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, -pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful -of minced parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -potatoes into slices about ½ inch in thickness; -put these into a salad-bowl with -oil and vinegar in the above proportion; -season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful -of minced parsley; stir the salad well, -that all the ingredients may be thoroughly -incorporated, and it is ready to -serve. This should be made two or -three hours before it is wanted for table. -Anchovies, olives, or pickles may be -added to this salad, as also slices of cold -beef, fowl, or turkey. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO SNOW.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes, salt, and water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose large white potatoes, as -free from spots as possible; boil them in -their skins in salt and water until perfectly -tender; drain and <i>dry them thoroughly</i> -by the side of the fire, and peel -them. Put a hot dish before the fire, -rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve -on to this dish; do not touch them afterwards,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span> -or the flakes will fall, and serve -as hot as possible. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour -to boil the potatoes. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> -per bushel. <i>Sufficient</i>,—6 potatoes for -3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of mealy potatoes, -boiled or steamed very dry, pepper and -salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—When -the potatoes are boiled, mash them -smoothly, that no lumps remain, and -gradually put them to the boiling stock; -pass it through a sieve, season, and simmer -for 5 minutes. Skim well, and serve -with fried bread. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for -8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of shin of beef, -1 lb. of potatoes, 1 onion, ½ a pint of -peas, 2 oz. of rice, 2 heads of celery, -pepper and salt to taste, 3 quarts of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the beef into thin -slices, chop the potatoes and onion, and -put them into a stewpan with the water, -peas, and rice. Stew gently till the -gravy is drawn from the meat; strain it -off, take out the beef, and pulp the other -ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put -the pulp back into the soup, cut up the -celery in it, and simmer till this is tender. -Season, and serve with fried bread cut -into it. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -4<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for 12 persons.</p> - - -<h3>POTATO SOUP (very Economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 middle-sized potatoes -well pared, a thick slice of bread, 6 leeks -peeled and cut into thin slices as far as -the white extends upwards from the -roots, a teacupful of rice, a teaspoonful -of salt, and half that of pepper, and 2 -quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—The water -must be completely boiling before anything -is put into it; then add the whole -of the ingredients at once, with the exception -of the rice, the salt, and the -pepper. Cover, and let these come to a -brisk boil; put in the others, and let -the whole boil slowly for an hour, or till -all the ingredients are thoroughly done, -and their several juices extracted and -mixed. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -3<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -large potatoes, as much of a size -as possible; wash them in lukewarm -water, and scrub them well, for the -browned skin of a baked potato is by -many persons considered the better part -of it. Put them into a moderate oven, -and bake them -for about two -hours, turning -them three or -four times whilst -they are cooking. -Serve them in a -napkin immediately they are done, as, if -kept a long time in the oven, they have -a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may -also be roasted before the fire, in an -American oven; but when thus cooked, -they must be done very slowly. Do not -forgot to send to table with them a piece -of cold butter. <i>Time.</i>—Large potatoes, -in a hot oven, 1½ hour to 2 hours; in a -cool oven, 2 to 2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -4<i>s.</i> per bushel. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 2 to -each person. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but not good just before and whilst new -potatoes are in season.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 198px;"> -<img src="images/illus-264.jpg" width="198" height="55" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BAKED POTATOES SERVED -IN NAPKIN.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>POTATOES, to Boil.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 or 12 potatoes; to -each ½ gallon of water allow 1 heaped -tablespoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -potatoes of an equal size, pare them, -take out all the eyes and specks, and as -they are peeled, throw them into cold -water. Put them into a saucepan, with -sufficient <i>cold</i> water to cover them, with -salt in the above proportion, and let -them <i>boil gently</i> until tender. Ascertain -when they are done by thrusting a fork -in them, and take them up the moment -they feel soft through; for if they are -left in the water afterwards, they become -waxy or watery. Drain away the water, -put the saucepan by the side of the fire, -with the lid partially uncovered, to allow -the steam to escape, and let the potatoes -get thoroughly dry, and do not allow -them to get burnt. Their superfluous -moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes, -if a good sort, should be perfectly mealy -and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality -and size, that it is difficult to give the -exact time for boiling; they should be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span> -attentively watched, and probed with a -fork, to ascertain when they are cooked. -Send them to table quickly, and very hot, -and with an opening in the cover of the -dish, that a portion of the steam may -evaporate, and not fall back on the potatoes. -<i>Time.</i>—Moderate-sized old potatoes, -15 to 20 minutes, after the water -boils; large ones, ½ hour to 35 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> per bushel. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but not good just before and whilst new -potatoes are in season.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—To keep potatoes hot, after -draining the water from them, put a -folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) -on the top of them, keeping the -saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This -will absorb the moisture, and keep them -hot some time without spoiling.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, to Boil in their -Jackets.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 or 12 potatoes; to -each ½ gallon of water, allow 1 heaped -tablespoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—To obtain -this wholesome and delicious vegetable -cooked in perfection, it should be boiled -and sent to table with the skin on. In -Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of -potatoes is better understood than in any -country, they are always served so. -Wash the potatoes well, and if necessary, -use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove -the dirt from them; and, if possible, -choose the potatoes so that they -may all be as nearly the same size as -possible. When thoroughly cleansed, -fill the saucepan half full with them, and -just cover the potatoes with cold water -salted in the above proportion: they are -more quickly boiled with a small quantity -of water, and, besides, are more -savoury than when drowned in it. -Bring them to boil, then draw the pan -to the side of the fire, and let them -simmer gently until tender. Ascertain -when they are done by probing them -with a fork; then pour off the water, -uncover the saucepan, and let the potatoes -dry by the side of the fire, taking -care not to let them burn. Peel them -quickly, put them in a very hot vegetable-dish, -either with or without a napkin, -and serve very quickly. After potatoes -are cooked, they should never be -entirely covered up, as the steam, instead -of escaping, falls down on them, -and makes them watery and insipid. -In Ireland they are usually served up -with the skins on, and a small plate is -placed by the side of each guest. <i>Time.</i>—Moderate-sized -potatoes, with their -skins on, 20 to 25 minutes after the -water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes -to ¾ hour, or longer; 5 minutes to dry -them. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> per bushel. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all -the year, but not good just before and -whilst new potatoes are in season.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, New, to Boil.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes; to each ½ gallon -of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Do not have the -potatoes dug long before they are -dressed, as they are never good when -they have been out of the ground some -time. Well wash them, rub off the -skins with a coarse cloth, and put them -into <i>boiling</i> water salted in the above -proportion. Let them boil until tender; -try them with a fork, and when done, -pour the water away from them; let -them stand by the side of the fire with -the lid of the saucepan partially uncovered, -and when the potatoes are thoroughly -dry, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, -with a piece of butter the -size of a walnut; pile the potatoes over -this, and serve. If the potatoes are too -old to have the skin rubbed off, boil -them in their jackets; drain, peel, and -serve them as above, with a piece of -butter placed in the midst of them. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ to ½ hour, according to the -size. <i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 3 lbs. for 5 or -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in May and June, -but may be had, forced, in March.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, Fried (French -Fashion).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes, hot butter or -clarified dripping, salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as -nearly the same size as possible; make -some butter or dripping <i>hot</i> in a frying-pan; -put in the potatoes, and fry them -on both sides until <i>nearly</i> cooked. Now -take the potatoes out of the fat, make -the fat <i>quite boiling</i>, then throw in the -potatoes for a minute or two until sufficiently -done. The immersion of the -vegetable in the grease a second time -after it is partially cooked, causes it to -puff or “gonfler,” as the French say, -which is the desired appearance for -properly-dressed fried potatoes to possess.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> -When they are crisp and done, -take them up, place them on a cloth -before the fire to drain the grease from -them, and serve very hot, after sprinkling -them with salt. These are delicious -with rump-steak, and, in France, are -frequently served thus as a breakfast -dish. The remains of cold potatoes may -also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, -but the slices must be cut a little -thicker. <i>Time.</i>—Sliced raw potatoes, -5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> per bushel. <i>Sufficient</i>,—6 -sliced potatoes for 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, a German Method of -Cooking.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 to 10 middling-sized -potatoes, 3 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls -of flour, ½ pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls -of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -butter and flour into a stewpan; stir -over the fire until the butter is of a nice -brown colour, and add the broth and -vinegar; peel and cut the potatoes into -long thin slices, lay them in the gravy, -and let them simmer gently until tender, -which will be in from 10 to 15 minutes, -and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered -with the potatoes is an improvement. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, à la Maître d’Hôtel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes, salt and water; -to every 6 potatoes allow 1 tablespoonful -of minced parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper -and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of -gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the potatoes clean, and -boil them in salt and water; when they -are done, drain them, let them cool; -then peel and cut the potatoes into thick -slices: if these are too thin, they would -break in the sauce. Put the butter into -a stewpan with the pepper, salt, gravy, -and parsley; mix these ingredients well -together, put in the potatoes, shake them -two or three times, that they may be -well covered with the sauce, and, when -quite hot through, squeeze in the lemon-juice, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour to -boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them -to heat in the sauce. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> -per bushel. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, Mashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes; to every lb. of -mashed potatoes allow 1 oz. of butter, 2 -tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the potatoes in their skins; -when done, drain them, and let them get -thoroughly dry by the side of the fire; -then peel them, and, as they are peeled, -put them into a clean saucepan, and with -a <i>large fork</i> beat them to a light paste; -add butter, milk, and salt in the above -proportion, and stir all the ingredients -well over the fire. When thoroughly -hot, dish them lightly, and draw the -fork backwards over the potatoes to -make the surface rough, and serve. -When dressed in this manner, they may -be browned at the top with a salamander, -or before the fire. Some cooks press the -potatoes into moulds, then turn them -out, and brown them in the oven: this -is a pretty mode of serving, but it makes -them heavy. In whatever way they are -sent to table, care must be taken to have -them quite free from lumps. <i>Time.</i>—From -½ to ¾ hour to boil the potatoes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> per bushel. <i>Sufficient</i>,—1 -lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, Very Thin-mashed, -or, Purée de Pommes de Terre.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of mashed -potatoes allow ¼ pint of good broth or -stock, 2 oz. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the -potatoes, well drain them, and pound -them smoothly in a mortar, or beat them -up with a fork; add the stock or broth, -and rub the potatoes through a sieve. -Put the purée into a very clean saucepan -with the butter; stir it well over -the fire until thoroughly hot, and it will -then be ready to serve. A purée should -be rather thinner than mashed potatoes, -and is a delicious accompaniment to -delicately broiled mutton cutlets. Cream -or milk may be substituted for the broth -when the latter is not at hand. A casserole -of potatoes, which is often used for -ragoûts instead of rice, is made by mashing -potatoes rather thickly, placing them -on a dish, and making an opening in the -centre. After having browned the potatoes -in the oven, the dish should be -wiped clean, and the ragoût or fricassée -poured in. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour to boil -the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm the -purée. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> per bushel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 lb. of cooked potatoes -for 3 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, how to use Cold.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold potatoes; -to every lb. allow 2 tablespoonfuls -of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, -1 oz. of buttermilk. <i>Mode.</i>—Mash the -potatoes with a fork until perfectly free -from lumps; stir in the other ingredients, -and add sufficient milk to moisten -them well; press the potatoes into a -mould, and bake in a moderate oven -until nicely brown, which will be in from -20 minutes to ½ hour. Turn them out -of the mould, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes to ½ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>POTATOES, to Steam.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Potatoes; boiling water. -<i>Mode.</i>—This mode of cooking potatoes is -now much in vogue, particularly where -they are wanted on a large scale, it being -so very convenient. Pare the potatoes, -throw them into cold water as they are -peeled, then put them into a steamer. -Place the steamer over a saucepan of -boiling water, and steam the potatoes -from 20 to 40 minutes, according to the -size and sort. When a fork goes easily -through them, they are done; then -take them up, dish, and serve very -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—20 to 40 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> per bushel. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -2 large potatoes to each person. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year, but not so good -whilst new potatoes are in season.</p> - - -<h3>POULET AUX CRESSONS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A fowl, a large bunch of -water-cresses, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, -¼ pint of gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Truss and -roast a fowl by recipe, taking care that -it is nicely frothed and brown. Wash -and dry the water-cresses, pick them -nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer -on a dish. Sprinkle over a little salt -and the above proportion of vinegar; -place over these the fowl, and pour over -it the gravy. A little gravy should be -served in a tureen. When not liked, -the vinegar may be omitted. <i>Time.</i>—From -½ to 1 hour, according to size. -<i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POULET À LA MARENGO.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large fowl, 4 tablespoonfuls -of salad oil, 1 tablespoonful of -flour, 1 pint of stock or water, about 28 -mushroom-buttons, salt and pepper to -the taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered -sugar, a very small piece of garlic. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the fowl into 8 or 10 pieces, -put them with the oil into a stewpan, -and brown them over a moderate fire; -dredge in the above proportion of flour, -when that is brown, pour in the stock -or water, let it simmer very slowly for -rather more than ½ an hour, and skim -off the fat as it rises to the top; add the -mushrooms, season with pepper, salt, -garlic, and sugar; take out the fowl, -which arrange pyramidically on a dish, -with the inferior joints at the bottom. -Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly -over the fire, keeping it stirred until -sufficiently thick to adhere to the back -of the spoon; pour over the fowl, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 50 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or -4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>POUND CAKE.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 209px;"> -<img src="images/illus-267.jpg" width="209" height="87" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">POUND CAKE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of butter, 1¼ lb. of -flour, 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lb. of -currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. of candied peel, ½ oz. -of citron, ½ oz. of sweet almonds; when -liked, a little pounded mace. <i>Mode.</i>—Work -the butter to a cream; dredge in -the flour; add the sugar, currants, candied -peel, which should be cut into neat -slices, and the almonds, which should be -blanched and chopped, and mix all these -well together; -whisk the eggs, -and let them be -thoroughly -blended with the -dry ingredients. -Beat the cake well for 20 minutes, and put -it into a round tin, lined at the bottom and -sides with a strip of white buttered paper. -Bake it from 1½ to 2 hours, and let the -oven be well heated when the cake is -first put in, as, if this is not the case, -the currants will all sink to the bottom -of it. To make this preparation light, -the yolks and whites of the eggs should -be beaten separately, and added separately -to the other ingredients. A glass -of wine is sometimes added to the mixture; -but this is scarcely necessary, as -the cake will be found quite rich enough -without it. <i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours. <i>Ave-</i>*<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> -<i>rage cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—The above -quantity divided in two will make two -nice-sized cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PRAWN SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Two quarts of fish stock, -two pints of prawns, the crumb of a -French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom -ketchup to taste, one blade of mace, one-fourth -pint of vinegar, a little lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pick out the tails of the -prawns, put the bodies in a stewpan -with 1 blade of mace, ¼ pint of vinegar, -and the same quantity of water; stew -them for ¼ hour, and strain off the liquor. -Put the fish stock into a stewpan; add -the strained liquor, pound the prawns -with the crumb of a roll moistened with -a little of the soup, rub them through a -tammy, and mix them by degrees with -the soup; add ketchup or anchovy sauce -to taste with a little lemon-juice. When -it is well cooked, put in a few picked -prawns; let them get thoroughly hot, -and serve. If not thick enough, put in a -little butter and flour. <i>Time.</i>—Hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This can be thickened with -tomatoes, and vermicelli served in it, -which makes it a very tasteful soup.</p> - - -<h3>PRAWNS, to Dress.</h3> - -<p>Cover a dish with a large cup reversed, -and over that lay a small white napkin. -Arrange the prawns on it in the form of -a pyramid, and garnish with plenty of -parsley. Sometimes prawns are stuck -into a lemon cut in half the long way, -and garnished with parsley.</p> - - -<h3>PRESERVES.</h3> - -<p>From the nature of vegetable substances, -and chiefly from their not passing -so rapidly into the putrescent state -as animal bodies, the mode of preserving -them is somewhat different, although the -general principles are the same. All -the means of preservation are put in -practice occasionally for fruits and the -various parts of vegetables, according to -the nature of the species, the climate, -the uses to which they are applied, &c. -Some are dried, as nuts, raisins, sweet -herbs, &c.; others are preserved by -means of sugar, such as many fruits -whose delicate juices would be lost by -drying; some are preserved by means -of vinegar, and chiefly used as condiments -or pickles; a few also by salting, -as French beans; while others are preserved -in spirits. We have, however, in -this place to treat of the best methods -of preserving fruits. Fruit is a most -important item in the economy of health; -the epicurean can scarcely be said to -have any luxuries without it; therefore, -as it is so invaluable, when we cannot -have it fresh, we must have it preserved. -It has long been a desideratum to preserve -fruits by some cheap method, yet -by such as would keep them fit for the -various culinary purposes, as making -tarts and other similar dishes. The expense -of preserving them with sugar is a -serious objection; for, except the sugar -be used in considerable quantities, the -success is very uncertain. Sugar also -overpowers and destroys the sub-acid -taste so desirable in many fruits: those -which are preserved in this manner are -chiefly intended for the dessert. Fruits -intended for preservation should be -gathered in the morning, in dry weather, -with, the morning sun upon them, if possible; -they will then have their fullest -flavour, and keep in good condition -longer than when gathered at any other -time. Until fruit can be used, it should -be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or a -refrigerator. In an ice-house it will remain -fresh and plump for several days. -Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather -will soon be mildewed, and be of no service -for preserves.</p> - -<p>Having secured the first and most important -contribution to the manufacture -of preserves—the fruit, the next consideration -is the preparation of the syrup -in which the fruit is to be suspended; -and this requires much care. In the -confectioner’s art there is a great nicety -in proportioning the degree of concentration -of the syrup very exactly to each -particular case; and he knows this by -signs, and expresses it by certain technical -terms. But to distinguish these properly -requires very great attention and considerable -experience. The principal -thing to be acquainted with is the fact, -that, in proportion as the syrup is longer -boiled, its water will become evaporated, -and its consistency will be thicker. Great -care must be taken in the management -of the fire, that the syrup does not boil -over, and that the boiling is not carried -to such an extent as to burn the sugar.</p> - -<p>The first degree or consistency is called -<i>the thread</i>, which is subdivided into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> -little and great thread. If you dip the -finger into the syrup and apply it to the -thumb, the tenacity of the syrup will, -on separating the finger and thumb, -afford a thread, which shortly breaks: -this is the little thread. If the thread, -from the greater tenacity, and, consequently, -greater strength of the syrup, -admits of a greater extension of the -finger and thumb, it is called the great -thread. There are half-a-dozen other -terms and experiments for testing the -various thickness of the boiling sugar -towards the consistency called <i>caramel</i>; -but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs -to the confectioner. A solution of sugar -prepared by dissolving two parts of -double-refined sugar (the best sugar is -the most economical for preserves) in -one of water, and boiling this a little, -affords a syrup of the right degree of -strength, and which neither ferments -nor crystallizes. This appears to be the -degree called <i>smooth</i> by the confectioners, -and is proper to be used for the purposes -of preserves. The syrup employed -should sometimes be clarified, which is -done in the following manner:—Dissolve -2 lbs. of loaf sugar in a pint of water; -add to this solution the white of an egg, -and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan -upon the fire with the solution; stir it -with a wooden spatula, and when it begins -to swell and boil up, throw in some cold -water or a little oil to damp the boiling; -for, as it rises suddenly, if it should boil -over, it would take fire, being of a very -inflammable nature. Let it boil up -again; then take it off, and remove carefully -the scum that has risen. Boil the -solution again, throw in a little more -cold water, remove the scum, and so on -for three or four times successively; then -strain it. It is considered to be sufficiently -boiled when some taken up in a -spoon pours out like oil.</p> - -<p>Although sugar passes so easily into -the state of fermentation, and is, in fact, -the only substance capable of undergoing -the vinous stage of that process, yet it -will not ferment at all if the quantity be -sufficient to constitute a very strong -syrup: hence, syrups are used to preserve -fruits and other vegetable substances -from the changes they would -undergo if left to themselves. Before -sugar was in use, honey was employed to -preserve many vegetable productions, -though this substance has now given -way to the juice of the sugar-cane.</p> - -<p>The fruits that are the most fit for -preservation in syrup are apricots, -peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, -plums of all kinds, and pears. As an -example, take some apricots not too -ripe, make a small slit at the stem end, -and push out the stone; simmer them -in water till they are softened and about -half done, and afterwards throw them -into cold water. When they have cooled, -take them out and drain them. Put the -apricots into the preserving-pan with -sufficient syrup to cover them; let them -boil up three or four times, and then -skim them; remove them from the fire, -pour them into an earthen pan, and let -them cool till next day. Boil them up -three days successively, skimming each -time, and they will then be finished and -in a fit state to be put into pots for use. -After each boiling, it is proper to examine -into the state of the syrup when -cold; if too thin, it will bear additional -boiling; if too thick, it may be lowered -with more syrup of the visual standard. -The reason why the fruit is emptied out -of the preserving-pan into an earthen -pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts -upon the copper, of which the preserving-pans -are usually made. From this example -the process of preserving fruits -by syrup will be easily comprehended. -The first object is to soften the fruit by -blanching or boiling it in water, in order -that the syrup by which it is preserved -may penetrate through its substance.</p> - -<p>Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, -lose much of their peculiar and delicate -flavour, as, for instance, pineapples; -and this inconvenience may, in some instances, -be remedied by preserving them -without heat. Cut the fruit in slices -about one-fifth of an inch thick, strew -powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch -thick on the bottom of a jar, and put the -slices on it. Put more sugar on this, -and then another layer of the slices, and -so on till the jar is full. Place the jar -with the fruit up to the neck in boiling -water, and keep it there till the sugar is -completely dissolved, which may take -half-an-hour, removing the scum as it -rises. Lastly, tie a wet bladder over -the mouth of the jar, or cork and wax -it.</p> - -<p>Any of the fruits that have been preserved -in syrup may be converted into -dry preserves, by first draining them -from the syrup, and then drying them in -a stove or very moderate oven, adding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span> -to them a quantity of powdered loaf-sugar, -which will gradually penetrate -the fruit, while the fluid parts of the -fruit gently evaporate. They should be -dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and -turned every six or eight hours, fresh -powdered sugar being sifted over them -every time they are turned. Afterwards, -they are to be kept in a dry situation, in -drawers or boxes. Currants and cherries -preserved whole in this manner, in -bunches, are extremely elegant, and have -a fine flavour. In this way it is, also, -that orange and lemon chips are preserved.</p> - -<p>Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes -are of the same nature, and are now in -very general request. They are prepared -without difficulty, by attending to a very -few directions; they are somewhat expensive, -but may be kept without spoiling -for a considerable time. Marmalades -and jams differ little from each other: -they are preserves of a half-liquid consistency, -made by boiling the pulp of -fruits, and sometimes part of the rinds, -with sugar. The appellation of marmalade -is applied to those confitures which -are composed of the firmer fruits, as -pineapples or the rinds of oranges; -whereas jams are made of the more -juicy berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, -currants, mulberries, &c. Fruit -pastes are a kind of marmalades, consisting -of the pulp of fruits, first evaporated -to a proper consistency, and afterwards -boiled with sugar. The mixture -is then poured into a mould, or spread -on sheets of tin, and subsequently dried -in the oven or stove till it has acquired -the state of a paste. From a sheet of -this paste, strips may be cut and formed -into any shape that may be desired, as -knots, rings, &c. Jams require the -same care and attention in the boiling -as marmalade; the slightest degree of -burning communicates a disagreeable -empyreumatic taste, and if they are not -boiled sufficiently, they will not keep. -That they may keep, it is necessary not -to be sparing of sugar.</p> - -<p>In all the operations for preserve-making, -when the preserving-pan is -used, it should not be placed on the -fire, but on a trivet, unless the jam be -made on a hot plate, when this is not -necessary. If the pan be placed close on -to the fire, the preserve is very liable -to burn, and the colour and flavour be -consequently spoiled.</p> - -<p>Fruit jellies are compounds of the -juices of fruits combined with sugar, -concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency -that the liquid, upon cooling, -assumes the form of a tremulous jelly.</p> - -<p>Before fruits are candied, they must -first be boiled in syrup, after which they -are taken out and dried on a stove, or -before the fire; the syrup is then to be -concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, -and the fruit dipped in it, and again laid -on the stove to dry and candy; they are -then to be put into boxes, and kept -dry.</p> - -<p>Conserves consist of fresh vegetable -matters beat into a uniform mass with -refined sugar, and they are intended to -preserve the virtues and properties of -recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or -fruits, unaltered, and as near as possible -to what they were when fresh gathered, -and to give them an agreeable taste.</p> - -<p>The last to be mentioned, but not the -least important preparation of fruit, is -the compôte, which can be made at the -moment of need, and with much less -sugar than would be ordinarily put to -preserves. Compôtes are very wholesome -things, suitable to most stomachs -which cannot accommodate themselves -to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar. -They are the happy medium—far better -than ordinary stewed fruit.</p> - - -<h3>PTARMIGAN, the, or White -Grouse.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 351px;"> -<img src="images/illus-270.jpg" width="351" height="244" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">THE PTARMIGAN.</div> -</div> - -<p>This bird is nearly the same size as -red grouse, and is fond of lofty situations, -where it braves the severest -weather, and is found in most parts of -Europe, as well as in Greenland. At -Hudson’s Bay they appear in such multitudes -that so many as sixty or seventy -are frequently taken at once in a net.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span> -As they are as tame as chickens, this is -done without difficulty. Buffon says that -the ptarmigan avoids the solar heat, and -prefers the frosts of the summits of the -mountains; for, as the snow melts on -the sides of the mountains, it ascends -till it gains the top, where it makes a -hole, and burrows in the snow. In -winter, it flies in flocks, and feeds on -the wild vegetation of the hills, which -imparts to its flesh a bitter, but not -altogether an unpalatable taste. It is -dark-coloured, has something of the -flavour of the hare, and is greatly relished -and much sought after by some sportsmen.</p> - - -<h3>PTARMIGAN, to Dress the.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 birds; butter, -flour, fried bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—The -ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young -and tender, are exceedingly fine eating, -and should be kept as long as possible, -to be good. Pluck, draw, and truss -them in the same manner as grouse, and -roast them before a brisk fire. Flour -and froth them nicely, and serve on -buttered toast, with a tureen of brown -gravy. Bread sauce, when liked, may -be sent to table with them, and fried -bread-crumbs substituted for the toasted -bread. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 -for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from the beginning -of February to the end of -April.</p> - - -<h3>PTARMIGAN, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>Ptarmigan, being much of the same -size, and trussed in the same manner, -as the red bird, may be carved in the -manner described, in Partridge and -Grouse carving.</p> - - -<h3><a id="PUDDINGS"></a>PUDDING, Alma.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of fresh butter, -½ lb. of powdered sugar, ½ lb. of flour, -¼ lb. of currants, 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the butter to a thick cream, strew in, by -degrees, the sugar, and mix both these -well together; then dredge the flour in -gradually, add the currants, and moisten -with the eggs, which should be well -beaten. When all the ingredients are -well stirred and mixed, butter a mould -that will hold the mixture exactly, tie it -down with a cloth, put the pudding into -boiling water, and boil for 5 hours; when -turned out, strew some powdered sugar -over it, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—6 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Aunt Nelly’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -treacle, ½ lb. of suet, the rind and juice -of 1 lemon, a few strips of candied lemon-peel, -3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Chop the suet finely; mix it -with the flour, treacle, lemon-peel minced, -and candied lemon-peel; add the cream, -lemon-juice, and 2 well-beaten eggs; beat -the pudding well, put it into a buttered -basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil -from 3½ to 4 hours. <i>Time.</i>—3½ to 4 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time, but more suitable for a winter -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, a Bachelor’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 oz. of grated bread, -4 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of apples, 2 oz. -of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of essence -of lemon, a little grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, -core, and mince the apples very -finely, sufficient, when minced, to make -4 oz.; add to these the currants, which -should be well washed, the grated bread, -and sugar; whisk the eggs, beat these -up with the remaining ingredients, and, -when all is thoroughly mixed, put the -pudding into a buttered basin, tie it -down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours. -<i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from August to March.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Bakewell (very Rich).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of puff-paste, 5 -eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, ¼ lb. of butter, -1 oz. of almonds, jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Cover a -dish with thin paste, and put over this a -layer of any kind of jam, ½ inch thick; -put the yolks of 5 eggs into a basin with -the white of 1, and beat these well; add -the sifted sugar, the butter, which should -be melted, and the almonds, which should -be well pounded; beat all together until -well mixed, then pour it into the dish -over the jam, and bake for an hour in a -moderate oven. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Bakewell.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ pint of bread-crumbs, -1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span> -3 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, -jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the bread-crumbs at -the bottom of a pie-dish, then over them -a layer of jam of any kind that may be -preferred; mix the milk and eggs together; -add the sugar, butter, and -pounded almonds; beat all well together; -pour it into the dish, and bake -in a moderate oven for 1 hour. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Baroness (Author’s -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of suet, ¾ lb. of -raisins weighed after being stoned, ¾ lb. -of flour, ½ pint of milk, ¼ saltspoonful of -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare the suet, by carefully -freeing it from skin, and chop it -finely; stone the raisins, and cut them -in halves, and mix both these ingredients -with the salt and flour; moisten the -whole with the above proportion of milk, -stir the mixture well, and tie the pudding -in a floured cloth, which has been -previously wrung out in boiling water. -Put the pudding into a saucepan of boiling -water, and let it boil, without ceasing, -4½ hours. Serve with plain sifted -sugar only, a little of which may be -sprinkled over the pudding. <i>Time.</i>—4½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter, -when fresh fruit is not obtainable.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This pudding the editress cannot -too highly recommend. The recipe -was kindly given to her family by a lady -who bore the title here prefixed to it; -and with all who have partaken of it, it -is an especial favourite. Nothing is of -greater consequence, in the above directions, -than attention to the time of boiling, -which should never be <i>less</i> than that -mentioned.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Royal Coburg.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of new milk, 6 oz. -of flour, 6 oz. of sugar, 6 oz. of butter, -6 oz. of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and -grated nutmeg to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the flour to a smooth batter with the -milk, add the remaining ingredients -<i>gradually</i>, and when well mixed, put -it into four basins or moulds half full; -bake for ¾ hour, turn the puddings out -on a dish, and serve with wine sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Cold.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, -sugar to taste, a little grated lemon-rind, -2 oz. of raisins, 4 tablespoonfuls -of marmalade, a few slices of sponge -cake. <i>Mode.</i>—Sweeten the milk with -lump sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, -and stir to this the eggs, which -should be well whisked; line a buttered -mould with the raisins, stoned and cut -in half; spread the slices of cake with -the marmalade, and place them in the -mould; then pour in the custard, tie -the pudding down with paper and a -cloth, and boil gently for 1 hour: when -cold, turn it out, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, College.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of bread-crumbs, -6 oz. of finely-chopped suet, ¼ lb. of -currants, a few thin slices of candied -peel, 3 oz. of sugar, ¼ nutmeg, 3 eggs, -4 tablespoonfuls of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the bread-crumbs into a basin; add -the suet, currants, candied peel, sugar, -and nutmeg, grated, and stir these ingredients -until they are thoroughly -mixed. Beat up the eggs, moisten the -pudding with these, and put in the -brandy; beat well for a few minutes, -then form the mixture into round balls -or egg-shaped pieces; fry these in hot -butter or lard, letting them stew in it -until thoroughly done, and turn them -two or three times, till of a fine light -brown; drain them on a piece of blotting-paper -before the fire; dish, and -serve with wine sauce. <i>Time.</i>—15 to -20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 puddings. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Comarques (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls -of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered -sugar, rind of 1 lemon, ½ pint of cream, -different kinds of preserve. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the whites and yolks of the eggs -separately, and put them into different -basins; stir the flour, sugar, and lemon-peel -into the yolks; whip the cream -very thick and put it on a sieve to -harden. Then add it, with the whites of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span> -the eggs, to the other ingredients, and -pour the mixture into little deep saucers -just before putting into the oven. Bake -about ½ an hour. When they are taken -out, a very thin layer of different kinds -of preserve should be put upon each, and -they should be piled one above another. -A little whipped cream placed here and -there on the pudding as a garnish would -be found to improve the appearance of -this dish. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ an hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or -5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Delhi.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 large apples, a little -grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced -lemon-peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls of -sugar, 6 oz. of currants, ¾ lb. of suet -crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, core, and cut the -apples into slices; put them into a -saucepan with the nutmeg, lemon-peel, -and sugar, stew them over the fire till -soft; then have ready the above quantity -of crust, roll it out thin, spread the -apples over the paste, sprinkle over the -currants, roll the pudding up, closing -the ends properly, tie it in a floured -cloth, and boil for 2 hours. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 -or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—August to -March.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Empress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of rice, 2 oz. of -butter, 3 eggs, jam, sufficient milk to -soften the rice. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the rice -in the milk until very soft; then add -the butter, boil it for a few minutes -after the latter ingredient is put in, and -set it by to cool. Well beat the eggs, -stir these in, and line a dish with puff-paste; -put over this a layer of rice, then -a thin layer of any kind of jam, then -another layer of rice, and proceed in this -manner until the dish is full; and bake -in a moderate oven for ¾ hour. This -pudding may be eaten hot or cold; if -the latter, it will be much improved by -having a boiled custard poured over it. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Exeter (Very Rich).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 oz. of bread-crumbs, -4 oz. of sago, 7 oz. of finely-chopped -suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, the rind of -½ lemon, ¼ pint of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls -of cream, 4 small sponge-cakes, -2 oz. of ratafias, ½ lb. of jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the bread-crumbs into a basin with -the sago, suet, sugar, minced lemon-peel, -rum, and 4 eggs; stir these ingredients -well together, then add 3 more -eggs and the cream, and let the mixture -be well beaten. Then butter a mould, -strew in a few bread-crumbs, and cover -the bottom with a layer of ratafias; then -put in a layer of the mixture, then a -layer of sliced sponge-cake spread -thickly with any kind of jam; then add -some ratafias, then some of the mixture -and sponge-cake, and so on until the -mould is full, taking care that a layer of -the mixture is on the top of the pudding. -Bake in a good oven from ¾ to 1 hour, -and serve with the following sauce:—Put -3 tablespoonfuls of black-currant -jelly into a stewpan, add 2 glasses of -sherry, and when warm, turn the pudding -out of the mould, pour the sauce -over it, and serve hot. <i>Time.</i>—From 1 -to 1¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING-PIES, Folkestone.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of -ground rice, 3 oz. of butter, ¼ lb. of -sugar, flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf, -6 eggs, puff-paste, currants. <i>Mode.</i>—Infuse -2 laurel or bay leaves, or the -rind of ½ lemon in the milk, and when -it is well flavoured, strain it, and add -the rice; boil these for ¼ hour, stirring -all the time; then take them off the -fire, stir in the butter, sugar, and eggs, -and let these latter be well beaten before -they are added to the other ingredients; -when nearly cold, line some -patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with the -custard, strew over each a few currants, -and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a -moderate oven. <i>Time.</i>—20 to 25 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to fill a dozen patty-pans. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, German.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 teaspoonfuls of flour, -1 teaspoonful of arrowroot, 1 pint of -milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, the -rind of ½ lemon, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the milk with -the lemon-rind until well flavoured; then -strain it, and mix with it the flour, arrowroot,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span> -butter, and sugar. Boil these -ingredients for a few minutes, keeping -them well stirred; then take them off -the fire and mix with them the eggs, -yolks and whites, beaten separately and -added separately. Boil some sugar to -candy; line a mould with this, put in the -brandy, then the mixture; tie down -with a cloth, and boil for rather more -than 1 hour. When turned out, the -brandy and sugar make a nice sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Half-Pay.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of suet, ¼ lb. of -currants, ¼ lb. of raisins, ¼ lb. of flour, -¼ lb. of bread-crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls -of treacle, ½ pint of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the suet finely; mix with it the currants, -which should be nicely washed and dried, -the raisins, which should be stoned, the -flour, bread-crumbs, and treacle; moisten -with the milk, beat up the ingredients -until all are thoroughly mixed, put them -into a buttered basin, and boil the pudding -for 3½ hours. <i>Time.</i>—3½ hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Herodotus.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of bread-crumbs, ½ -lb. of good figs, 6 oz. of suet, 6 oz. of -moist sugar, ½ saltspoonful of salt, 3 -eggs, nutmeg to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince -the suet and figs very finely; add the -remaining ingredients, taking care that -the eggs are well whisked; beat the -mixture for a few minutes, put it into a -buttered mould, tie it down with a -floured cloth, and boil the pudding for 5 -hours. Serve with wine sauce. <i>Time.</i>—5 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Hunter’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of -currants, 1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of bread-crumbs, -½ lb. of moist sugar, 8 eggs, 1 -tablespoonful of flour, ¼ lb. of mixed -candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 -drops of essence of lemon, 10 drops of -essence of almonds, ½ nutmeg, 2 blades -of mace, 6 cloves. <i>Mode.</i>—Stone and -shred the raisins rather small, chop the -suet finely, and rub the bread until all -lumps are well broken; pound the spice -to powder, cut the candied peel into thin -shreds, and mix all these ingredients well -together, adding the sugar. Beat the -eggs to a strong froth, and as they are -beaten, drop into them the essence of -lemon and essence of almonds; stir these -to the dry ingredients, mix well, and add -the brandy. Tie the pudding firmly in a -cloth, and boil it for 6 hours at the least -7 or 8 hours would be still better for it. -Serve with boiled custard, melted red-currant -jelly, or brandy sauce. <i>Time.</i>—6 to 8 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 9 or 10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Manchester (to eat -Cold).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of grated bread, ½ -pint of milk, a strip of lemon-peel, 4 -eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, -puff-paste, jam, 3 tablespoonfuls of -brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Flavour the milk with -lemon-peel, by infusing it in the milk for -½ hour; then strain it on to the bread-crumbs, -and boil it for 2 or 3 minutes; -add the eggs, leaving out the whites of -2, the butter, sugar, and brandy; stir all -these ingredients well together; cover a -pie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom -put a thick layer of any kind of -jam; pour the above mixture, cold, on -the jam, and bake the pudding for an -hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted -sugar sprinkled over. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Mansfield.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 -pint of milk, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, 2 -tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped -suet, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, ½ lb. -of currants, ½ teaspoonful of grated -nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. -<i>Mode.</i>—Slice the roll very thin, and -pour upon it a pint of boiling milk; let -it remain closely covered for ¼ hour, then -beat it up with a fork, and sweeten with -moist sugar; stir in the chopped suet, -flour, currants, and nutmeg. Mix these -ingredients well together, moisten with -the eggs, brandy, and cream; beat the -mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, put it into a -buttered dish or mould, and bake in a -moderate oven for 1¼ hour. Turn it out, -strew sifted sugar over, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—1¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Marlborough.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, ¼ lb. of -powdered lump sugar, 4 eggs, puff-paste, -a layer of any kind of jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered -sugar, whisk the eggs, and add -these to the other ingredients. When -these are well mixed, line a dish with -puff-paste, spread over a layer of any -kind of jam that may be preferred, pour -in the mixture, and bake the pudding -for rather more than ½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Military.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of suet, ½ lb. of -bread-crumbs, ½ lb. of moist sugar, the -rind and juice of 1 large lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the suet finely, mix it with the -bread-crumbs and sugar, and mince the -lemon-rind and strain the juice; stir -these into the other ingredients, mix well, -and put the mixture into small buttered -cups, and bake for rather more than ¼ -hour; turn them out on the dish, and -serve with lemon-sauce. The above ingredients -may be made into small balls, -and boiled for about ½ hour; they should -then be served with the same sauce as -when baked. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Monday’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -plum-pudding, brandy, custard made -with 5 eggs to every pint of milk. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the remains of a <i>good</i> cold -plum-pudding into finger-pieces, soak -them in a little brandy, and lay them -cross-barred in a mould until full. Make -a custard with the above proportion of -milk and eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg -or lemon-rind; fill up the mould -with it; tie it down with a cloth, and -boil or steam it for an hour. Serve with -a little of the custard poured over, to -which has been added a tablespoonful of -brandy. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the pudding, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Nesselrode (a fashionable -Iced Pudding—Carême’s -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—40 chestnuts, 1 lb. of -sugar, flavouring of vanilla, 1 pint of -cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of -Maraschino, 1 oz. of candied citron, 2 -oz. of currants, 2 oz. of stoned raisins, -½ pint of whipped cream, 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch -the chestnuts in the boiling -water, remove the husks, and pound -them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, -adding a few spoonfuls of syrup. Then -rub them through a fine sieve, and mix -them in a basin with a pint of syrup -made from 1 lb. of sugar, clarified, and -flavoured with vanilla, 1 pint of cream, -and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixture -over a slow fire, stirring it <i>without -ceasing</i>, and just as it begins to boil, take -it off and pass it through a tammy. -When it is cold, put it into a freezing-pot, -adding the Maraschino, and make the -mixture set; then add the sliced citron, -the currants, and stoned raisins (these -two latter should be soaked the day previously -in Maraschino and sugar pounded -with vanilla); the whole thus mingled, -add a plateful of whipped cream mixed -with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a -froth with a little syrup. When the -pudding is perfectly frozen, put it into a -pineapple-shaped mould; close the lid, -place it again in the freezing-pan, covered -over with pounded ice and saltpetre, and -let it remain until required for table; -then turn the pudding out, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—½ hour to freeze the mixture, -<i>Seasonable</i> from October to February.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Paradise.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 eggs, 3 apples, ¼ lb. -of bread-crumbs, 3 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of -currants, salt and grated nutmeg to -taste, the rind of ½ lemon, ½ wineglassful -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare, core, and -mince the apples into small pieces, and -mix them with the other dry ingredients; -beat up the eggs, moisten the mixture -with these, and beat it well; stir in the -brandy, and put the pudding into a -buttered mould; tie it down with a -cloth, boil for 1½ hour, and serve with -sweet sauce. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Pease.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of split peas, -2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, pepper and salt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span> -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the peas to soak -over night, in rain-water, and float off -any that are worm-eaten or discoloured. -Tie them loosely in a clean cloth, leaving -a little room for them to swell, and put -them on to boil in cold rain-water, allowing -2½ hours after the water has simmered -up. When the peas are tender, take -them up and drain; rub them through a -colander with a wooden spoon; add the -butter, eggs, pepper, and salt; beat all -well together for a few minutes, until -the ingredients are well incorporated; -then tie them tightly in a floured cloth; -boil the pudding for another hour, turn -it on to the dish, and serve very hot. -This pudding should always be sent to -table with boiled leg of pork, and is an -exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled -beef. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours to boil the peas, -tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hour for the -pudding. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -September to March.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Quickly-Made.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, ½ lb. of -sifted sugar, ¼ lb. of flour, 1 pint of milk, -5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -the milk hot; stir in the butter, -and let it cool before the other ingredients -are added to it; then stir in the -sugar, flour, and eggs, which should be -well whisked, and omit the whites of 2; -flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, -and beat the mixture well. Butter some -small cups, rather more than half fill -them; bake from 20 minutes to ½ hour, -according to the size of the puddings, -and serve with fruit, custard or wine-sauce, -a little of which may be poured -over them. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 puddings. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Somersetshire.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 eggs, their weight in -flour, pounded sugar and butter, flavouring -of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, -or essence of vanilla. <i>Mode.</i>—Carefully -weigh the various ingredients, by placing -on one side of the scales the eggs, and -on the other the flour; then the sugar, -and then the butter. Warm the butter, -and with the hands beat it to a cream; -gradually dredge in the flour and pounded -sugar, and keep stirring and beating the -mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly -smooth. Then add the eggs, -which should be well whisked, and either -of the above flavourings that may be -preferred; butter some small cups, -rather more than half fill them, and -bake in a brisk oven for about ½ hour. -Turn them out, dish them on a napkin, -and serve custard or wine-sauce with -them. A pretty little supper-dish may -be made of these puddings cold, by cutting -out a portion of the inside with the -point of a knife, and putting into the -cavity a little whipped cream or delicate -preserve, such as apricot, greengage, or -very bright marmalade. The paste for -these puddings requires a great deal of -mixing, as the more it is beaten, the -better will the puddings be. When -served cold, they are usually called <i>gâteaux -à la Madeleine</i>. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 -puddings. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, Vicarage.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of flour, ¼ lb. of -chopped suet, ¼ lb. of currants, ¼ lb. of -raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, -½ teaspoonful of ground ginger, ½ saltspoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all the -ingredients into a basin, having previously -stoned the raisins, and washed, -picked, and dried the currants; mix -well with a clean knife; dip the pudding-cloth -into boiling water, wring it out, -and put in the mixture. Have ready a -saucepan of boiling water, plunge in the -pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn -it out on the dish, and serve with sifted -sugar. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable -for a winter pudding.</p> - - -<h3>PUDDING, West-Indian.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of cream, ¼ lb. of -loaf-sugar, ½ lb. of Savoy or sponge-cakes, -8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green -ginger. <i>Mode.</i>—Crumble down the cakes, -put them into a basin, and pour over -them the cream, which should be previously -sweetened and brought to the -boiling-point; cover the basin, well beat -the eggs, and when the cream is soaked -up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange -the ginger round it, pour in the pudding -carefully, and tie it down with a cloth; -steam or boil it slowly for 1½ hour, and -serve with the syrup from the ginger, -which should be warmed, and poured -over the pudding. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, -2<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span></p> - - -<h3><a id="PUDDING_Yorkshire"></a>PUDDING, Yorkshire, to serve -with hot Roast Beef.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of milk, 6 <i>large</i> -tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour -into a basin with the salt, and stir -gradually to this enough milk to make -it into a stiff batter. When this is perfectly -smooth, and all the lumps are well -rubbed down, add the remainder of the -milk and the eggs, which should be well -beaten. Beat the mixture for a few -minutes, and pour it into a shallow tin, -which has been previously well rubbed -with beef dripping. Put the pudding -into the oven, and bake it for an hour; -then, for another ½ hour, place it under -the meat, to catch a little of the gravy -that flows from it. Cut the pudding -into small square pieces, put them on a -hot dish, and serve. If the meat is -baked, the pudding may at once be -placed under it, resting the meat on -a small three-cornered stand. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 223px;"> -<img src="images/illus-277.jpg" width="223" height="69" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">YORKSHIRE PUDDING.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>PUFF-PASTE RINGS, or Puits -d’Amour.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste (<i>see</i> <a href="#PASTE_Puff">Paste</a>), the -white of an egg, sifted loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -some good puff-paste by recipe; -roll it out to the thickness of about -¼ inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, -stamp out as many pieces as may -be required; then work the paste up -again, and roll it out to the same thickness, -and with a <i>smaller</i> cutter, stamp -out sufficient pieces to correspond with -the larger ones. Again stamp out the -centre of these smaller rings; brush -over the others with the white of an egg, -place a small ring on the top of every -large circular piece of paste, egg over -the tops, and bake from 15 to 20 minutes. -Sift over sugar, put them back in the -oven to colour them; then fill the rings -with preserve of any bright colour. Dish -them high on a napkin, and serve. So -many pretty dishes of pastry may be -made by stamping puff-paste out with -fancy cutters, and filling the pieces, when -baked, with jelly or preserve, that our -space will not allow us to give a separate -recipe for each of them; but as they are -all made from one paste, and only the -shape and garnishing varied, perhaps it -is not necessary, and by exercising a -little ingenuity, variety may always be -obtained. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, -stars, shamrocks, rings, &c., are the -most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry. -<i>Time.</i>—15 to 25 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -with ½ lb. of paste, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 -dishes of pastry. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>PUMPKIN, Preserved.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each lb. of pumpkin -allow 1 lb. of roughly pounded loaf -sugar, 1 gill of lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Obtain -a good sweet pumpkin; halve it, -take out the seeds, and pare off the -rind; cut it into neat slices, or into -pieces about the size of a five-shilling -piece. Weigh the pumpkin, put the -slices in a pan or deep dish in layers, -with the sugar sprinkled between them; -pour the lemon-juice over the top, and -let the whole remain for 2 or 3 days. -Boil altogether, adding ½ pint of water -to every 3 lbs. of sugar used, until the -pumpkin becomes tender; then turn -the whole into a pan, where let it remain -for a week; then drain off the -syrup, boil it until it is quite thick; -skim, and pour it, boiling, over the -pumpkin. A little bruised ginger and -lemon-rind, thinly pared, may be boiled -in the syrup to flavour the pumpkin. -<i>Time.</i>—From ½ to ¾ hour to boil the -pumpkin tender. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> to -7<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> in September -and October; but better when made in -the latter month, as the pumpkin is then -quite ripe.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—-Vegetable marrows are very -good prepared in the same manner, but -are not quite so rich.</p> - - -<h3>PUNCH, to make Hot.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of rum, ½ pint of -brandy, ¼ lb. of sugar, 1 large lemon, ½ -teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pint of boiling -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the sugar over the -lemon until it has absorbed all the -yellow part of the skin, then put the -sugar into a punchbowl; add the lemon-juice -(free from pips), and mix these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span> -two ingredients well together. Pour -over them the boiling water, stir well -together, add the rum, brandy, and -nutmeg; mix thoroughly, and the punch -will be ready to serve. It is very important -in making good punch that all -the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated; -and to insure success, the processes -of mixing must be diligently -attended to. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow a quart -for 4 persons; but this information must -be taken <i>cum grano salis</i>; for the capacities -of persons for this kind of beverage -are generally supposed to vary -considerably.</p> - - -<h3>QUAILS, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Quails, butter, toast. -<i>Mode.</i>—These birds keep good several -days, and should be roasted without -drawing. Truss them in the same manner -as woodcocks; roast them before a -clear fire, keep them well basted, and -serve on toast. <i>Time.</i>—About 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost.</i>—Seldom bought. -<i>Sufficient</i>, 2 for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from -October to December.</p> - - -<h3>QUAILS.</h3> - -<p>Quails, being trussed and served like -Woodcock, may be similarly carved.</p> - - -<h3>QUINCE JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of juice -allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare -and slice the quinces, and put them -into a preserving-pan with sufficient -water to float them. Boil them until -tender, and the fruit is reduced to a -pulp; strain off the clear juice, and to -each pint allow the above proportion of -loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar -together for about ¾ hour; remove all -the scum as it rises, and if the jelly appears -firm when a little is poured on a -plate, it is done. The residue left on the -sieve will answer to make a common -marmalade, for immediate use, by boiling -it with ½ lb. of common sugar to -every lb. of pulp. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours to -boil the quinces in water; ¾ hour to boil -the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i> -per lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -October.</p> - - -<h3>QUINCE MARMALADE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of quince -pulp allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice -the quinces into a preserving-pan, -adding sufficient water for them to float; -place them on the fire to stew, until -reduced to a pulp, keeping them stirred -occasionally from the bottom, to prevent -their burning; then pass the pulp -through a hair sieve, to keep back the -skin and seeds. Weigh the pulp, and to -each lb. add lump sugar in the above -proportion, broken very small. Place -the whole on the fire, and keep it well -stirred from the bottom of the pan with -a wooden spoon, until reduced to a marmalade, -which may be known by dropping -a little on a cold plate, when, if it -jellies, it is done. Put it into jars whilst -hot; let it cool, and cover with pieces of -oiled paper cut to the size of the mouths -of the jars. The tops of them may be -afterwards covered with pieces of bladder, -or tissue-paper brushed over on both -sides with the white of an egg. <i>Time.</i>—3 -hours to boil the quinces without the -sugar; ¾ hour to boil the pulp with the -sugar. <i>Average cost</i>, from 8<i>d.</i> to 9<i>d.</i> per -lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 pint of -sliced quinces for a lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> -in August, September, and October.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT, Boiled.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 245px;"> -<img src="images/illus-278.jpg" width="245" height="98" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED RABBIT.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Rabbit; water. <i>Mode.</i>—For -boiling, choose rabbits with smooth -and sharp claws, as that denotes they are -young: should these be blunt and -rugged, the ears dry and tough, the -animal is old. After emptying and -skinning it, wash it well in cold water, -and let it soak for about ¼ hour in warm -water, to draw out the blood. Bring -the head round to the side, and fasten it -there by means of a skewer run through -that and the body. Put the rabbit into -sufficient hot water to cover it, let it -boil very gently until tender, which will -be in from ½ to ¾ hour, according to its -size and age. Dish it, and smother it -either with onion, mushroom, or liver-sauce, -or parsley-and-butter; the former -is, however, generally preferred to any -of the last-named sauces. When liver-sauce -is preferred, the liver should be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span> -boiled for a few minutes, and minced -very finely, or rubbed through a sieve -before it is added to the sauce. <i>Time.</i>—A -very young rabbit, ½ hour; a large one, -¾ hour; an old one, 1 hour or longer. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -September to February.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT, Curried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, -3 onions, 1 pint of stock, 1 tablespoonful -of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, -1 tablespoonful of mushroom powder, -the juice of ½ lemon, ½ lb. of rice. <i>Mode.</i>—Empty, -skin, and wash the rabbit -thoroughly, and cut it neatly into joints. -Put it into a stewpan with the butter -and sliced onions, and let them acquire a -nice brown colour, but do not allow -them to blacken. Pour in the stock, -which should be boiling; mix the curry -powder and flour smoothly with a little -water, add it to the stock, with the -mushroom powder, and simmer gently -for rather more than ½ hour; squeeze in -the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre -of a dish, with an edging of boiled rice -all round. Where economy is studied, -water may be substituted for the stock; -in this case, the meat and onions must be -very nicely browned. A little sour apple -and rasped cocoa-nut stewed with the -curry will be found a great improvement. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, flour, dripping, -1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced -shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom -ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the rabbit into -neat joints, and flour them well; -make the dripping boil in a frying-pan, -put in the rabbit, and fry it a nice brown. -Have ready a very hot dish, put in the -butter, shalot, and ketchup; arrange -the rabbit pyramidically on this, and -serve as quickly as possible. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to February.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The rabbit may be brushed over -with egg, and sprinkled with bread-crumbs, -and fried as above. When -cooked in this manner, make a gravy in -the pan, and pour it round, but not over -the pieces of rabbit.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT, à la Minute.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, ¼ lb. of butter, -salt and pepper to taste, 2 blades of -pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 -tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 2 -teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of -sherry, 1 pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Empty, -skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, -and cut it into joints. Put the butter -into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit; -add salt, pepper, and pounded mace, -and let it cook until three parts done; -then put in the remaining ingredients, -and boil for about 10 minutes; it will -then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare -may be dressed in the same manner. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 35 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -September to February.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, a few slices of -ham, salt and white pepper to taste, -2 blades of pounded mace, ½ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg, a few forcemeat balls, -3 hard-boiled eggs, ½ pint of gravy, puff -crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the rabbit (which -should be young), remove the breastbone, -and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, -slices of ham, forcemeat balls, and hard -eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each -layer with pepper, salt, pounded mace, -and grated nutmeg. Pour in about ½ -pint of water, cover with crust, and bake -in a well-heated oven for about 1½ hour. -Should the crust acquire too much -colour, place a piece of paper over it to -prevent it from burning. When done, -pour in at the top, by means of the hole -in the middle of the crust, a little good -gravy, which may be made of the breast- and -leg-bones of the rabbit, and 2 or 3 -shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, -and spices. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to February.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The liver of the rabbit may be -boiled, minced, and mixed with the -forcemeat balls, when the flavour is -liked.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT OR HARE, Ragoût of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls -of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2 oz. of butter, -a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and -salt to taste, 2 slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span> -1 glass of port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the -onions, and put them into a stewpan -with the flour and butter; place the pan -near the fire, stir well as the butter -melts, till the onions become a rich -brown colour, and add, by degrees, a -little water or gravy till the mixture is -of the consistency of cream. Cut some -thin slices of bacon; lay in these with -the rabbit, cut into neat joints; add a -seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon -and bay-leaf, and let the whole simmer -until tender. Pour in the port wine, -give one boil, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About -½ hour to simmer the rabbit. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -September to February.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT, Roast or Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, forcemeat, -buttered paper, sausage-meat. <i>Mode.</i>—Empty, -skin, and thoroughly wash the -rabbit; wipe it dry, line the inside with -sausage-meat and forcemeat, and to -which has been added the minced liver. -Sew the stuffing inside, skewer back the -head between the shoulders, cut off the -fore-joints of the shoulders and legs, -bring them close to the body, and secure -them by means of a skewer. Wrap the -rabbit in buttered paper, and put it -down to a bright clear fire; keep it well -basted and a few minutes before it is -done remove the paper, flour and froth -it, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. -Take out the skewers, and serve with -brown gravy and red-currant jelly. To -bake the rabbit, proceed in the same -manner as above; in a good oven, it will -take about the same time as roasting. -<i>Time.</i>—A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a -large one about ¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -February.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;"> -<img src="images/illus-280.jpg" width="239" height="69" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST RABBIT.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>RABBIT SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 large rabbits, or 3 -small ones; a faggot of savoury herbs, -½ head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 -blade of mace, salt and white pepper to -taste, a little pounded mace, ½ pint of -cream, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, -the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the soup with -the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and -keep the nice pieces for a dish or <i>entrée</i>. -Put them into warm water, and draw -the blood; when quite clean, put them -into a stewpan, with a faggot of herbs, -and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal -stock or water. Simmer slowly till done -through, add the three quarts of water, -and boil for an hour. Take out the -rabbit, pick the meat from the bones, -covering it up to keep it white; put the -bones back in the liquor, add the vegetables, -and simmer for two hours; skim -and strain, and let it cool. Now pound -the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of -the eggs, and the crumb of the roll previously -soaked; rub it through a tammy, -and gradually add it to the strained -liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix -arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream -(say 2 dessertspoonfuls), and stir in the -soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This -soup must be very white, and instead of -thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour, -vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled -in a little stock, and put in five minutes -before serving. <i>Time.</i>—Nearly 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to March. <i>Sufficient</i> for -10 persons.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, 2 large onions, -6 cloves, 1 small teaspoonful of chopped -lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, -thickening of butter and flour, 1 large -tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the rabbit into small joints; -put them into a stewpan, add the onions -sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. -Pour in sufficient water to cover -the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly -done, drop in a few forcemeat balls, to -which has been added the liver, finely -chopped. Thicken the gravy with flour -and butter, put in the ketchup, give one -boil, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more -than ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to February.</p> - - -<h3>RABBIT STEWED, Larded.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 rabbit, a few strips of -bacon, rather more than 1 pint of good -broth or stock, a bunch of savoury -herbs, salt and pepper to taste, thickening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span> -of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry. -<i>Mode.</i>—Well wash the rabbit, cut it into -quarters, lard them with slips of bacon, -and fry them; then put them into a -stewpan with the broth, herbs, and a -seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer -gently until the rabbit is tender, then -strain the gravy, thicken it with butter -and flour, add the sherry, let it boil, -pour it over the rabbit, and serve. -Garnish with slices of cut lemon. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September to -February.</p> - - -<h3>RABBITS, Stewed in Milk.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 very young rabbits, -not nearly half grown; 1½ pint of milk, -1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of -flour, a little salt and cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls -of the milk, and when this is -well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up -the rabbits into joints, put them into a -stewpan, with the milk and other ingredients, -and simmer them <i>very gently</i> -until quite tender. Stir the contents -from time to time, to keep the milk -smooth and prevent it from burning. -½ hour will be sufficient for the cooking -of this dish. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from September -to February.</p> - - -<h3>RABBITS, to carve.</h3> - -<p>In carving a boiled rabbit, let the -knife be drawn on each side of the backbone, -the whole length of the rabbit, as -shown by the dotted line 3 to 4: thus -the rabbit will be in three parts. Now -let the back be divided into two equal -parts in the direction of the line from 1 -to 2; then let the leg be taken off, as -shown by the line 5 to 6, and the -shoulder, as shown by the line 7 to 8. -This, in our opinion, is the best -plan to carve a rabbit, although there -are other modes which are preferred by -some.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 215px;"> -<img src="images/illus-281a.jpg" width="215" height="82" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED RABBIT.</div> -</div> - -<p>A roast rabbit is rather differently -trussed from one that is meant to be -boiled; but the carving is nearly similar, -as will be seen by the cut. The back should -be divided into as many pieces as it will -give, and the legs and shoulders can then -be disengaged in the same manner as -those of the boiled animal.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 229px;"> -<img src="images/illus-281b.jpg" width="229" height="61" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST RABBIT.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>RAISED PIE, of Poultry or Game.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow ½ lb of butter, ½ pint of water, the -yolks of 2 eggs, ½ teaspoonful of salt -(these are for the crust); 1 large fowl or -pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, a -few slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, -seasoning of nutmeg, allspice, pepper -and salt, gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a stiff -short crust with the above proportion of -butter, flour, water, and eggs, and work -it up very smoothly; butter a raised-pie -mould, and line it with paste. Previously -to making the crust, bone the fowl, or -whatever bird is intended to be used, lay -it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and -season the inside well with pounded -mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; then -spread over it a layer of forcemeat, then -a layer of seasoned veal, and then one of -ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, -and roll the fowl over, making -the skin meet at the back. Line the pie -with forcemeat, put in the fowl, and fill -up the cavities with slices of seasoned -veal, and ham, and forcemeat; wet the -edges of the pie, put on the cover, pinch -the edges together with the paste-pincers, -and decorate it with leaves; -brush it over with beaten yolk of egg, -and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. -In the mean time, make a good strong -gravy from the bones, pour it through -a funnel into the hole at the top; cover -this hole with a small leaf, and the pie, -when cold, will be ready for use. Let it -be remembered that the gravy must be -considerably reduced before it is poured -into the pie, as, when cold, it should -form a firm jelly, and not be the least -degree in a liquid state. This recipe is -suitable for all kinds of poultry or game, -using one or more birds, according to -the size of the pie intended to be made;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> -but the birds must always be boned. -Truffles, mushrooms, &c., added to this -pie, make it much nicer; and, to enrich -it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or -game with thin strips of bacon. This -method of forming raised pies in a mould -is generally called a <i>timbale</i>, and has the -advantage of being more easily made -than one where the paste is raised by -the hands; the crust, besides, being -eatable. <i>Time.</i>—Large pie, 4 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i>, with -poultry, all the year; with game, from -September to March.</p> - - -<h3>RAISED PIE, of Veal and Ham.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, -a few slices of bacon or ham, seasoning -of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, -forcemeat, 2 lbs. of hot-water paste, ½ -pint of good strong gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—To -raise the crust for a pie with the hands -is a very difficult task, and can only be -accomplished by skilled and experienced -cooks. The process should be seen to -be satisfactorily learnt, and plenty of -practice given to the making of raised -pies, as by that means only will success -be insured. Make a hot-water paste by -recipe, and from the mass raise the pie -with the hands; if this cannot be accomplished, -cut out pieces for the top and -bottom, and a long piece for the sides; -fasten the bottom and side-piece together -by means of egg, and pinch the edges -well together; then line the pie with -forcemeat, put in a layer of veal, and a -plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper, -nutmeg, and allspice; for, let it be remembered, -these pies taste very insipid -unless highly seasoned. Over the seasoning -place a layer of sliced bacon or -cooked ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, -veal seasoning, and bacon, and so -on until the meat rises to about an inch -above the paste; taking care to finish -with a layer of forcemeat, to fill all the -cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat -firmly and compactly. Brush the top -edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on -the cover, press the edges, and pinch -them round with paste-pincers. Make a -hole in the middle of the lid, and ornament -the pie with leaves, which should -be stuck on with the white of an egg; then -brush it all over with the beaten yolk of -an egg, and bake the pie in an oven -with a soaking heat from 3 to 4 hours. -To ascertain when it is done, run a sharp-pointed -knife or skewer through the hole -at the top into the middle of the pie, -and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficiently -baked. Have ready about ½ pint -of very strong gravy, pour it through a -funnel into the hole at the top, stop up -the hole with a small leaf of baked -paste, and put the pie away until wanted -for use. Should it acquire too much -colour in the baking, cover it with white -paper, as the crust should not in the -least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, -truffles, and many other ingredients, -may be added to enrich the flavour of -these pies, and the very fleshy parts of -the meat may be larded. These pies are -more frequently served cold than hot, -and form excellent dishes for cold -suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the -pie is sometimes carefully removed, -leaving the perfect edges, and the top -decorated with square pieces of very -bright aspic jelly: this has an exceedingly -pretty effect. <i>Time.</i>—About 4 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a very large pie. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 288px;"> -<img src="images/illus-282.jpg" width="288" height="179" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">RAISED PIE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>RAISIN CHEESE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of raisins, -allow ½ lb. of loaf sugar; pounded -cinnamon and cloves to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Stone -the raisins; put them into a -stewpan with the sugar, cinnamon, and -cloves, and let them boil for 1½ hour, -stirring all the time. Let the preparation -cool a little, pour it into a glass -dish, and garnish with strips of candied -lemon-peel and citron. This will remain -good some time, if kept in a dry place. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 -lb. for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RAISIN PUDDING, Boiled. (Plain -and Economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -stoned raisins, ½ lb. of chopped suet, ½<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> -saltspoonful of salt, milk. <i>Mode.</i>—After -having stoned the raisins and chopped -the suet finely, mix them with the flour, -add the salt, and when these dry ingredients -are thoroughly mixed, moisten -the pudding with sufficient milk to make -it into a rather stiff paste. Tie it up in -a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, -and boil for 4 hours: serve with sifted -sugar. This pudding may also be made -in a long shape, the same as a rolled jam-pudding, -and will not require quite so -long boiling;—2½ hours would then be -quite sufficient. <i>Time.</i>—Made round, 4 -hours; in a long shape, 2½ hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 or 9 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>RAISIN PUDDING, Baked. (Plain -and Economical.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ¾ lb. of -stoned raisins, ½ lb. of suet, a pinch of -salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, -milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the suet finely; -stone the raisins and cut them in halves; -mix these with the suet, add the salt, -sugar, and grated nutmeg, and moisten -the whole with sufficient milk to make it -of the consistency of thick batter. Put -the pudding into a pie-dish, and bake -for 1½ hour, or rather longer. Turn it -out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over, -and serve. This is a very plain recipe, -and suitable where there is a family of -children. It, of course, can be much -improved by the addition of candied peel, -currants, and rather a larger proportion -of suet: a few eggs would also make the -pudding richer. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>RAMAKINS, to serve with the -Cheese Course.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of Cheshire cheese, -¼ lb. of Parmesan cheese, ¼ lb. of fresh -butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a -small roll; pepper, salt, and pounded -mace to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the crumb -of the roll in milk for 5 minutes; strain, -and put it into a mortar; add the cheese, -which should be finely scraped, the -butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, -and pound these ingredients well -together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, -mix them with the paste, and put it into -small pans or saucers, which should not -be more than half filled. Bake them -from 10 to 12 minutes, and serve them -very hot and very quickly. This batter -answers equally well for macaroni after -it is boiled tender. <i>Time.</i>—10 or 12 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>RAMAKINS PASTRY, to serve -with the Cheese Course.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any pieces of very good -light puff-paste, Cheshire, Parmesan, or -Stilton cheese. <i>Mode.</i>—The remains or -odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, -&c., answer for making these little dishes. -Gather up the pieces of paste, roll it out -evenly, and sprinkle it with grated cheese -of a nice flavour. Fold the paste in three, -roll it out again, and sprinkle more cheese -over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with -a paste-cutter shape it in any way that -may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a -brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes, dish -them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. -The appearance of this dish may be very -much improved by brushing the ramakins -over with the yolk of egg before they are -placed in the oven. Where expense is not -objected to, Parmesan is the best kind -of cheese to use for making this dish. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -with ½ lb. of paste, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RASPBERRY CREAM.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus-283.jpg" width="300" height="199" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">RASPBERRY-CREAM MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ pint of milk, ¾ pint of -cream, 1½ oz. of isinglass, raspberry -jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of -brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the milk, cream, -and isinglass together for ¼ hour, or -until the latter is melted, and strain it -through a hair sieve into a basin. Let it -cool a little; then add to it sufficient -raspberry jelly, which, when melted, -would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till the -ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not -sufficiently sweet, add a little pounded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span> -sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture -well until nearly cold, put it into a -well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool -place till perfectly set. Raspberry jam -may be substituted for the jelly; but -must be melted, and rubbed through a -sieve, to free it from seeds: in summer, -the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, -by slightly mashing it with a wooden -spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the -juice that flows from the fruit should -then be used for mixing with the cream. -If the colour should not be very good, a -few drops of prepared cochineal may be -added to improve its appearance. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour to boil the cream and isinglass. -<i>Average cost</i>, with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, -and the best isinglass, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -fill a quart mould with fresh fruit in July. -<i>Seasonable</i>, with jelly, at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Strawberry cream may be made -in precisely the same manner, substituting -strawberry jam or jelly for the -raspberry.</p> - - -<h3>RASPBERRY JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of raspberries -allow 1 lb. of sugar, ¼ pint of red-currant -juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the fruit for -this preserve be gathered in fine weather, -and used as soon after it is picked as -possible. Take off the stalks, put the -raspberries into a preserving-pan, break -them well with a wooden spoon, and let -them boil for ¼ hour, keeping them well -stirred. Then add the currant-juice -and sugar, and boil again for ½ hour. -Skim the jam well after the sugar is -added, or the preserve will not be clear. -The addition of the currant-juice is a -very great improvement to this preserve, -as it gives it a piquant taste, which the -flavour of the raspberries seems to require. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to simmer the -fruit without the sugar; ½ hour after it -is added. <i>Average cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> -per lb. pot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow about 1 -pint of fruit to fill a 1 lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> -in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>RASPBERRY JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each pint of juice -allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Let -the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite -ripe, and picked from the stalks; put -them into a large jar, after breaking the -fruit a little with a wooden spoon, and -place this jar, covered, in a saucepan of -boiling water. When the juice is well -drawn, which will be in from ¾ to 1 hour, -strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve -or cloth; measure the juice, and to every -pint allow the above proportion of loaf -sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a -preserving-pan, place it over the fire, and -boil gently until the jelly thickens when -a little is poured on a plate; carefully -remove all the scum as it rises, pour the -jelly into small pots, cover down, and -keep in a dry place. This jelly answers -for making raspberry cream, and for -flavouring various sweet dishes, when, in -winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 hour to draw the juice. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 9<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—From 3 pints to 2 quarts of -fruit should yield 1 pint of juice. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -should be made in July or -August.</p> - - -<h3>RASPBERRY VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 3 pints of the -best vinegar allow 4½ pints of freshly-gathered -raspberries; to each pint of -liquor allow 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, -1 wineglassful of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Let -the raspberries be freshly gathered, pick -them from the stalks, and put 1½ pint of -them into a stone jar; pour 3 pints of -the best vinegar over them, and let them -remain for 24 hours; then strain the -liquor over another 1½ pint of fresh raspberries. -Let them remain another 24 -hours, and the following day repeat the -process for the third time; then drain -off the liquor without pressing, and pass -it through a jelly-bag (previously wetted -with plain vinegar) into a stone jar. Add -to every pint of the liquor 1 lb. of -pounded loaf sugar; stir them together, -and, when the sugar is dissolved, cover -the jar, set it upon the fire in a saucepan -of boiling water, and let it boil for an -hour, removing the scum as fast as it -rises; add to each pint a glass of brandy, -bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an -excellent drink in cases of fevers and -colds: it should be diluted with cold -water, according to the taste or requirement -of the patient. <i>Time.</i>—To be -boiled 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per -pint. <i>Sufficient</i> to make 2 quarts. <i>Seasonable.</i>—-Make -this in July or August, -when raspberries are most plentiful.</p> - - -<h3>RATAFIAS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of sweet almonds, -¼ lb. of bitter ones, ¾ lb. of sifted loaf<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span> -sugar, the white of 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Blanch, -skin, and dry the almonds, and -pound them in a mortar with the white -of an egg; stir in the sugar, and gradually -add the remaining whites of eggs, -taking care that they are very thoroughly -whisked. Drop the mixture, through a -small biscuit syringe, on to cartridge-paper, -and bake the cakes from 10 to 12 -minutes in rather a quick oven. A -very small quantity should be dropped on -the paper to form one cake, as the mixture -spreads; when baked, the ratifias -should be about the size of a large button. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 12 minutes.—<i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - - -<h3>RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce -(Mons. Ude’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of cavice, 1 -teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful -of Reading sauce, a piece of butter -the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of -thick Béchamel, 1 tablespoonful of -minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls of -cream; salt and pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Scald -the parsley, mince the leaves -very fine, and add to it all the other ingredients; -after mixing the whole -together thoroughly, the sauce will be -ready for use. <i>Average cost</i>, for this -quantity, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>REMOULADE, or French Salad-Dressing.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, ½ tablespoonful -of made mustard, salt and cayenne to -taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 -tablespoonful of tarragon or plain vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil 3 eggs quite hard for -about ¼ hour, put them into cold water, -and let them remain in it for a few -minutes; strip off the shells, put the -yolks in a mortar, and pound them very -smoothly; add to them, very gradually, -the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, -keeping all well stirred and rubbed down -with the back of a wooden spoon. Put -in the oil drop by drop, and when this is -thoroughly mixed with the other ingredients, -add the yolk of a raw egg, -and stir well, when it will be ready for -use. This sauce should not be curdled; -and to prevent this, the only way is to -mix a little of everything at a time, and -not to cease stirring. The quantities of -oil and vinegar may be increased or -diminished according to taste, as many -persons would prefer a smaller proportion -of the former ingredient.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Green Remoulade</span> is made by using -tarragon vinegar instead of plain, and -colouring with a little parsley-juice. -Harvey’s sauce, or Chili vinegar, may -be added at pleasure. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to -boil the eggs. <i>Average cost</i>, for this -quantity, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a salad made -for 4 or 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>RHUBARB JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of rhubarb -allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar, the rind of ½ -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Wipe the rhubarb perfectly -dry, take off the string or peel, -and weigh it; put it into a preserving-pan, -with sugar in the above proportion; -mince the lemon-rind very finely, add it -to the other ingredients, and place the -preserving-pan by the side of the fire; -keep stirring to prevent the rhubarb -from burning, and when the sugar is -well dissolved, put the pan more over -the fire, and let the jam boil until it is -done, taking care to keep it well skimmed -and stirred with a wooden or silver spoon. -Pour it into pots, and cover down with -oiled and egged papers. <i>Time.</i>—If the -rhubarb is young and tender, ¾ hour, -reckoning from the time it simmers -equally; old rhubarb, 1¼ to 1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> to 7<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb -to fill a lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> from -February to May.</p> - - -<h3>RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, -to resemble Scotch Marmalade.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, -6 oranges, 1½ lb. of loaf sugar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel the oranges; remove as -much of the white pith as possible, -divide them, and take out the pips; -slice the pulp into a preserving-pan, add -the rind of half the oranges cut into thin -strips, and the loaf sugar, which should -be broken small. Peel the rhubarb, cut -it into thin pieces, put it to the oranges, -and stir altogether over a gentle fire -until the jam is done. Remove all the -scum as it rises, put the preserve into -pots, and, when cold, cover down. -Should the rhubarb be very old, stew -it alone for ¼ hour before the other -ingredients are added. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per -lb. pot. <i>Seasonable</i> from February to -May.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>RHUBARB PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, -¼ lb. of moist sugar, ¾ lb. of suet-crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make a suet-crust with -¾ lb. of flour, and line a buttered basin -with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, -and, if old, string it—that is so say, -pare off the outside skin. Cut it into -inch lengths, fill the basin with it, put in -the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch -the edges of the pudding together, tie -over it a floured cloth, put it into boiling -water, and boil from 2 to 2½ hours. Turn -it out of the basin, and serve with a jug -of cream and sifted sugar. <i>Time.</i>—2 to -2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -February to May.</p> - - -<h3>RHUBARB TART.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of puff-paste, about -5 sticks of large rhubarb, ¼ lb. of moist -sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a puff-crust; line -the edges of a deep pie-dish with it, and -wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into -pieces about 1 inch long. Should it be -old and tough, string it—that is to say, -pare off the outside skin. Pile the fruit -high in the dish, as it shrinks very much -in the cooking; put in the sugar, cover -with crust, ornament the edges, and -bake the tart in a well-heated oven from -½ to ¾ hour. If wanted very nice, brush -it over with the white of an egg beaten -to a stiff froth, then sprinkle on it some -sifted sugar, and put it in the oven just -to set the glaze: this should be done -when the tart is nearly baked. A small -quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of -the peel minced, are by many persons -considered an improvement to the flavour -of rhubarb tart. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from February to May.</p> - - -<h3>RHUBARB WINE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 5 lbs. of rhubarb -pulp allow 1 gallon of cold spring -water; to every gallon of liquor allow 3 -lbs. of loaf sugar, ½ oz. of isinglass, the -rind of 1 lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Gather the -rhubarb about the middle of May; wipe -it with a wet cloth, and, with a mallet, -bruise it in a large wooden tub or other -convenient means. When reduced to a -pulp, weigh it, and to every 5 lbs. add 1 -gallon of cold spring water; let these remain -for 3 days, stirring 3 or 4 times a -day; and on the fourth day, press the -pulp through a hair sieve; put the liquor -into a tub, and to every gallon put 3 lbs. -of loaf sugar; stir in the sugar until it is -quite dissolved, and add the lemon-rind; -let the liquor remain, and, in 4, 5, or 6 -days, the fermentation will begin to subside, -and a crust or head will be formed, -which should be skimmed off, or the -liquor drawn from it, when the crust -begins to crack or separate. Put the -wine into a cask, and if, after that, it -ferments, rack it off into another cask, -and in a fortnight stop it down. If the -wine should have lost any of its original -sweetness, add a little more loaf sugar, -taking care that the cask is full. Bottle -it off in February or March, and in the -summer it should be fit to drink. It will -improve greatly by keeping; and, should -a very brilliant colour be desired, add a -little currant-juice. <i>Seasonable.</i> Make -this about the middle of May.</p> - - -<h3>RICE BISCUITS, or Cakes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every ½ lb. of rice-flour, -allow ¼ lb. of pounded lump sugar, -¼ lb. of butter, 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the butter to a cream, stir in the rice-flour -and pounded sugar, and moisten -the whole with the eggs, which should -be previously well beaten. Roll out the -paste, shape it with a round paste-cutter -into small cakes, and bake them from 12 -to 18 minutes in a very slow oven. <i>Time.</i>—12 -to 18 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make about 18 cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE BLANCMANGE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. -of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter, -1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, -essence of almonds or vanilla, or -laurel-leaves. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix the rice to a -smooth batter with about ½ pint of the -milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, -with the sugar, butter, and whichever -of the above flavourings may be -preferred; bring the milk to the boiling-point, -quickly stir in the rice, and let it -boil for about 10 minutes, or until it -comes easily away from the saucepan, -keeping it well stirred the whole time. -Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; -pour in the rice, and let it get perfectly -set, when it should turn out quite easily; -garnish it with jam, or pour round a -compôte of any kind of fruit, just before<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span> -it is sent to table. This blancmange is -better for being made the day before it -is wanted, as it then has time to become -firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, -steep 3 of them in the milk, and -take them out before the rice is added: -about 8 drops of essence of almonds, or -from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, -would be required to flavour the above -proportion of milk. <i>Time.</i>—From 10 to -15 minutes to boil the rice. <i>Average cost</i>, -9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill a quart mould. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE BREAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of rice allow -4 lbs. of wheat flour, nearly 3 tablespoonfuls -of yeast, ¼ oz. of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the rice in water until it is quite tender; -pour off the water, and put the rice, before -it is cold, to the flour. Mix these -well together with the yeast, salt, and -sufficient warm water to make the whole -into a smooth dough; let it rise by the -side of the fire, then form it into loaves, -and bake them from 1½ to 2 hours, according -to their size. If the rice is boiled -in milk instead of water, it makes very -delicious bread or cakes. When boiled -in this manner, it may be mixed with -the flour without straining the liquid -from it. <i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours.</p> - - -<h3>RICE, Buttered.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of rice, 1½ pint of -milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, -grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash and pick the rice, drain, -and put it into a saucepan with the milk; -let it swell gradually, and, when tender, -pour off the milk; stir in the butter, -sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, -when the butter is thoroughly melted, -and the whole is quite hot, serve. After -the milk is poured off, be particular that -the rice does not burn: to prevent this, -do not cease stirring it. <i>Time.</i>—About -¾ hour to swell the rice. <i>Average cost</i>, -7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE CAKE.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 132px;"> -<img src="images/illus-287a.jpg" width="132" height="155" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CAKE-MOULD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of ground rice, ½ -lb. of flour, ½ lb. of loaf sugar, 9 eggs, -20 drops of essence of lemon, or the -rind of one lemon, ¼ lb. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate -the whites from the yolks of -the eggs; whisk them both well, and -add to the latter the butter beaten to a -cream. Stir in the flour, -rice, and lemon (if the -rind is used it must be -very finely minced), and -beat the mixture well; -then add the whites of -the eggs, beat the cake -again for some time, put -it into a buttered mould -or tin, and bake it for -nearly 1½ hour. It may -be flavoured with essence of almonds, -when this is preferred. <i>Time.</i>—Nearly -1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE, SAVOURY CASSEROLE -OF; or Rice Border, for Ragoûts, -Fricassées, &c. (An -Entrée.)</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 215px;"> -<img src="images/illus-287b.jpg" width="215" height="75" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">CASSEROLE OF RICE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of rice, 3 pints of -weak stock or broth, 2 slices of fat ham, -1 teaspoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—A casserole -of rice, when made in a mould, is -not such a difficult operation as when it -is moulded by the hand. It is an elegant -and inexpensive entrée, as the -remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl, may -be served as -ragoûts, fricassées, -&c., -inclosed in the -casserole. It -requires great -nicety in its -preparation, the principal thing to attend -to being the boiling of the rice, as, if -this is not sufficiently cooked, the casserole, -when moulded, will have a rough -appearance, which would entirely spoil -it. After having washed the rice in two -or three waters, drain it well, and put it -into a stewpan with the stock, ham, and -salt; cover the pan closely, and let the -rice gradually swell over a slow fire, occasionally -stirring, to prevent its sticking. -When it is quite soft, strain it, pick out -the pieces of ham, and, with the back of -a large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a -perfectly smooth paste. Then well -grease a mould (moulds are made purposely -for rice borders), and turn it upside -down for a minute or two, to drain -away the fat, should there be too much; -put some rice all round the bottom -and sides of it; place a piece of soft -bread in the middle, and cover it with -rice; press it in equally with the spoon,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> -and let it cool. Then dip the mould into -hot water, turn the casserole carefully on -to a dish, mark where the lid is to be -formed on the top, by making an incision -with the point of a knife about an inch -from the edge all round, and put it into -a <i>very hot</i> oven. Brush it over with a -little clarified butter, and bake about ½ -hour, or rather longer; then carefully -remove the lid, which will be formed by -the incision having been made all round, -and remove the bread, in small pieces, -with the point of a penknife, being careful -not to injure the casserole. Fill the -centre with the ragoût or fricassée, -which should be made thick; put on the -cover, glaze it, place it in the oven to set -the glaze, and serve as hot as possible. -The casserole should not be emptied too -much, as it is liable to crack from the -weight of whatever is put in; and, in -baking it, let the oven be very hot, or -the casserole will probably break. <i>Time.</i>—About -¾ hour to swell the rice. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 2 moderate-sized casseroles. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE, SWEET CASSEROLE OF -(an Entremets).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of rice, 3 pints of -milk, sugar to taste, flavouring of bitter -almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 -eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—This is made in precisely -the same manner as a savoury casserole, -only substituting the milk and sugar for -the stock and salt. Put the milk into a -stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter -almonds to flavour it well; then add the -rice, which should be washed, picked, -and drained, and let it swell gradually -in the milk over a slow fire. When it is -tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and -yolks of eggs; butter a mould, press in -the rice, and proceed in exactly the same -manner as in preceding recipe. When -the casserole is ready, fill it with a compôte -of any fruit that may be preferred, -or with melted apricot-jam, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—From ¾ to 1 hour to swell the -rice, ½ to ¾ hour to bake the casserole. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the compôte or -jam, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 2 casseroles. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE CROQUETTES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of rice, 1 quart of -milk, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring -of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, -egg and bread-crumbs, hot lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the rice, milk, and sugar into -a saucepan, and let the former gradually -swell over a gentle fire until all the milk -is dried up; and just before the rice is -done, stir in a few drops of essence of -any of the above flavourings. Let the -rice get cold; then form it into small -round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, -sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and -fry them in boiling lard for about 10 -minutes, turning them about, that they -may get equally browned. Drain the -greasy moisture from them, by placing -them on a cloth in front of the fire for a -minute or two; pile them on a white -d’oyley, and send them quickly to table. -A small piece of jam is sometimes introduced -into the middle of each croquette, -which adds very much to the flavour of -this favourite dish. <i>Time.</i>—From ¾ to 1 -hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes -to fry the croquettes. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 7 or 8 croquettes. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE FRITTERS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of -milk, 3 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter, -6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Swell the rice in the milk, with -the sugar and butter, over a slow fire -until it is perfectly tender, which will be -in about ¾ hour. When the rice is done, -strain away the milk, should there be -any left, and mix with it the marmalade -and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole -over the fire until the eggs are set; then -spread the mixture on a dish to the -thickness of about ½ inch, or rather -thicker. When it is perfectly cold, cut -it into long strips, dip them in a batter -the same as for apple fritters, and fry -them a nice brown. Dish them on a -white d’oyley, strew sifted sugar over, -and serve quickly. <i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour -to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes -to fry the fritters. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> to make 7 or 8 fritters. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE-MILK.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 tablespoonfuls of rice, -1 quart of milk, sugar to taste; when -liked, a little grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Well -wash the rice, put it into a saucepan -with the milk, and simmer gently -until the rice is tender, stirring it from -time to time to prevent the milk from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span> -burning; sweeten it, add a little grated -nutmeg, and serve. This dish is also -very suitable and wholesome for children; -it may be flavoured with a little -lemon-peel, and a little finely-minced -suet may be boiled with it, which renders -it more strengthening and more wholesome. -Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, -and macaroni, may all be dressed in the -same manner. <i>Time.</i>—From ¾ to 1 hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 small teacupful of rice, -4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, -2 oz. of beef marrow, ¼ lb. of currants, -2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, -¼ lb. of sugar, the rind of ½ lemon. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the lemon-rind and milk -into a stewpan, and let it infuse till the -milk is well flavoured with the lemon; -in the mean time, boil the rice until -tender in water, with a very small quantity -of salt, and, when done, let it be -thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs, -stir to them the milk, which should -be strained, the butter, marrow, currants, -and remaining ingredients; add -the rice, and mix all well together. Line -the edges of the dish with puff-paste, -put in the pudding, and bake for about -¾ hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel -may be added at pleasure, or Sultana -raisins may be substituted for the currants. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> for a winter pudding, when -fresh fruits are not obtainable.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Baked (Plain -and Economical; a nice Pudding -for Children).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 teacupful of rice, 2 -tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1 quart of -milk, ½ oz. of butter or two small tablespoonfuls -of chopped suet, ½ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the -rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, -pour in the milk, and stir these ingredients -well together; then add the -butter cut up into very small pieces, or, -instead of this, the above proportion of -finely-minced suet; grate a little nutmeg -over the top, and bake the pudding, in a -<i>moderate</i> oven, from 1½ to 2 hours. As -the rice is not previously cooked, care -must be taken that the pudding be very -slowly baked, to give plenty of time for -the rice to swell, and for it to be very -thoroughly done. <i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -children. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Plain Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of rice. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, -allowing room for the rice to swell, and -put it into a saucepan of cold water; -boil it gently for two hours, and if, after -a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely, -take the rice up and tighten the cloth. -Serve with sweet melted butter, or cold -butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, -or marmalade, any of which accompaniments -are suitable for plain boiled rice. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours after the water boils. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of rice, 1½ pint of -new milk, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, ½ saltspoonful -of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls -of moist sugar, flavouring to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Stew the rice very gently in the -above proportion of new milk, and, -when it is tender, pour it into a basin; -stir in the butter, and let it stand to -cool; then beat the eggs, add these to -the rice with the sugar, salt, and any -flavouring that may be approved, such -as nutmeg, powdered cinnamon, grated -lemon-peel, essence of bitter-almonds, or -vanilla. When all is well stirred, put -the pudding into a buttered basin, tie it -down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling -water, and boil for 1¼ hour. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Boiled (with -Dried or Fresh Fruit; a nice -Dish for the Nursery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of rice, 1 pint of -any kind of fresh fruit that may be preferred, -or ½ lb of raisins or currants. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, -allowing room for it to swell, and put it -into a saucepan of cold water; let it boil -for an hour, then take it up, untie the -cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it up again -tolerably tight, and put it into the water -for the remainder of the time. Boil for -another hour, or rather longer, and serve -with sweet sauce if made with dried fruit, -and with plain sifted sugar if made with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span> -fresh fruit. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour to boil the -rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or longer, -afterwards. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 children. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This pudding is very good -made with apples; they should be pared, -cored, and cut into thin slices.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, French, or Gâteau -de Riz.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every ¼ lb. of rice -allow 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1 -lemon, ½ teaspoonful of salt, sugar to -taste, 4 oz. of butter, 6 eggs, bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk into a -stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let it -infuse for ½ hour, or until the former is -well flavoured; then take out the peel, -have ready the rice washed, picked, and -drained; put it into the milk, and let it -gradually swell over a very slow fire. -Stir in the butter, salt, and sugar, and, -when properly sweetened, add the yolks -of the eggs, and then the whites, both of -which should be well beaten, and added -separately to the rice. Butter a mould, -strew in some fine bread-crumbs, and let -them be spread equally over it; then -carefully pour in the rice, and bake the -pudding in a <i>slow</i> oven for 1 hour. Turn -it out of the mould, and garnish the dish -with preserved cherries, or any bright-coloured -jelly or jam. This pudding -would be exceedingly nice flavoured with -essence of vanilla. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to 1 hour -for the rice to swell; to be baked 1 hour -in a slow oven. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Baked or Boiled -Ground.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls -of ground rice, sugar to taste, -4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, -bitter-almonds or bay-leaf. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -1½ pint of the milk into a stewpan -with any of the above flavourings, and -bring it to the boiling point, and, with -the other ½ pint of milk, mix the ground -rice to a smooth batter; strain the boiling -milk to this, and stir over the fire -until the mixture is tolerably thick; -then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, -and when nearly or quite cold -sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, -which should be previously well beaten, -with a little salt. Put the pudding into -a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a -cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and -boil for 1½ hour. For a baked pudding, -proceed in precisely the same manner, -only using half the above proportion of -ground rice, with the same quantity of -all the other ingredients: an hour will -bake the pudding in a moderate oven. -Stewed fruit, or preserves, or marmalade, -may be served with either the boiled or -baked pudding, and will be found an -improvement. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour to boil, -1 hour to bake. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDING, Iced.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of -milk, ½ lb. of sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, -1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the rice into a stewpan, with -the milk and sugar, and let these simmer -over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently -soft to break up into a smooth -mass, and should the milk dry away too -much, a little more may be added. Stir -the rice occasionally, to prevent its burning, -then beat it to a smooth mixture; -add the yolks of the eggs, which should -be well whisked, and the vanilla (should -this flavouring not be liked, essence of -bitter almonds may be substituted for -it); put this rice custard into the freezing-pot, -and proceed as directed in the -recipe for <a href="#ICED-PUDDING">Iced Pudding</a>. When wanted -for table, turn the pudding out of the -mould, and pour over the top and round -it a compôte of oranges, or any other -fruit that may be preferred, taking care -that the flavouring in the pudding harmonizes -well with the fruit that is -served with it. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to freeze -the mixture. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; exclusive -of the compôte, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable.</i>—Served -all the year round.</p> - - -<h3>RICE PUDDINGS, Miniature.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of rice, 1½ pint of -milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, sugar -to taste, flavouring of lemon-peel, bitter -almonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied -peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the rice swell -in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire, -putting with it a strip of lemon-peel; -stir to it the butter and the other ½ pint -of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then -add the well-beaten eggs, and a few drops -of essence of almonds or essence of vanilla, -whichever may be preferred; butter<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span> -well some small cups or moulds, line -them with a few pieces of candied peel -sliced very thin, fill them three parts -full, and bake for about 40 minutes; turn -them out of the cups on to a white d’oyley, -and serve with sweet sauce. The -flavouring and candied peel might be -omitted, and stewed fruit or preserve -served instead, with these puddings. -<i>Time.</i>—40 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 puddings. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE SNOWBALLS (A Pretty -Dish for Juvenile Suppers).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of -milk, flavouring of essence of almonds, -sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the rice in the milk, with sugar -and a flavouring of essence of almonds, -until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, -a little more milk, should it dry -away too much. When the rice is quite -soft, put it into teacups, or <i>small</i> round -jars, and let it remain until cold; then -turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, -pour over a custard, and on the top of -each ball place a small piece of bright-coloured -preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel -or vanilla may be boiled with the rice -instead of the essence of almonds, when -either of these is preferred; but the -flavouring of the custard must correspond -with that of the rice. <i>Time.</i>—About -¾ hour to swell the rice in the -milk. <i>Average cost</i>, with the custard, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 children. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE SOUFFLÉ.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 tablespoonfuls of -ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, -pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of -lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, or -anything that may be preferred, a piece -of butter the size of a walnut. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix -the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls -of the milk quite smoothly, and put -it into a saucepan with the remainder of -the milk and butter, and keep stirring it -over the fire for about ¼ hour, or until -the mixture thickens. Separate the -yolks from the whites of the eggs, beat -the former in a basin, and stir to them -the rice and sufficient pounded sugar to -sweeten the soufflé; but add this latter -ingredient as sparingly as possible, as -the less sugar there is used the lighter -will be the soufflé. Mow whisk the -whites of the eggs to a stiff froth or -snow; mix them with the other preparation, -and pour the whole into a soufflé-dish, -and put it instantly into the oven; -bake it about ½ hour in a moderate oven, -take it out, hold a salamander or hot -shovel over the top, sprinkle sifted sugar -over it, and send the soufflé to table in -the dish it was baked in, either with a -napkin pinned round, or inclosed in a -more ornamental dish. The excellence -of this fashionable dish entirely depends -on the proper whisking of the whites of -the eggs, the manner of baking, and the -expedition with which it is sent to table. -Soufflés should be served <i>instantly</i> from -the oven, or they will sink, and be -nothing more than an ordinary pudding. -<i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 oz. of Patna rice, salt, -cayenne, and mace, 2 quarts of white -stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Throw the rice into -boiling water, and let it boil until -tender; then pour it into a sieve, and -allow it to drain well. Now add it to the -stock boiling, and allow it to simmer a -few minutes; season to taste. Serve -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - - -<h3>RICE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of rice, the yolks -of 4 eggs, ½ a pint of cream, rather -more than two quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the rice in the stock, and rub -half of it through a tammy; put the -stock in the stewpan, add all the rice, -and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Beat -the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the -cream (previously boiled), and strain -through a hair sieve; take the soup off -the fire, add the eggs and cream, stirring -frequently. Heat it gradually, stirring -all the time; but do not let it boil, or -the eggs will curdle. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the -year.</p> - - -<h3>RICE for Curries, &c., Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of rice, water, salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pick, wash, and soak the rice in -plenty of cold water; then have ready a -saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span> -into it, and keep it boiling quickly, with -the lid uncovered, until it is tender, but -not soft. Take it up, drain it, and put -it on a dish before the fire to dry; do -not handle it much with a spoon, but -shake it about a little with two forks, -that it may all be equally dried, and -strew over it a little salt. It is now -ready to serve, and may be heaped -lightly on a dish by itself, or be laid -round the dish as a border, with a curry -or fricassee in the centre. Some cooks -smooth the rice with the back of a -spoon, and then brush it over with the -yolk of an egg, and set it in the oven to -colour; but the rice, well boiled, white, -dry, and with every grain distinct, is by -far the more preferable mode of dressing -it. During the process of boiling, the -rice should be attentively watched, that -it be not overdone, as, if this is the case, -it will have a mashed and soft appearance. -<i>Time.</i>—15 to 25 minutes, according -to the quality of the rice. <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a large dish of -curry. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RICE, To Boil, for Curries, &c. -(Soyer’s Recipe.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of the best Carolina -rice, 2 quarts of water, 1½ oz. of -butter, a little salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the -rice well in two waters; make 2 quarts -of water boiling, and throw the rice into -it; boil it until three-parts done, then -drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom -and sides of a stewpan, put in the rice, -place the lid on tightly, and set it by the -side of the fire, until the rice is perfectly -tender, occasionally shaking the pan to -prevent its sticking. Prepared thus, -every grain should be separate and white. -Either dish it separately, or place it -round the curry as a border. <i>Time.</i>—15 -to 25 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 2 moderate-sized curries. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ROASTING, Memoranda in.</h3> - -<p>The management of the fire is a point -of primary importance in roasting. A -radiant fire throughout the operation is -absolutely necessary to insure a good -result. When the article to be dressed -is thin and delicate, the fire may be -small; but when the joint is large the -fire must fill the grate. Meat must never -be put down before a hollow or exhausted -fire, which may soon want recruiting; -on the other hand, if the heat of the fire -become too fierce, the meat must be -removed to a considerable distance till -it has somewhat abated. Some cooks -always fail in roasting, though they succeed -in nearly everything else. A -French writer on the culinary art says -that anybody can learn how to cook, -but one must be born a roaster. According -to Liebig, beef or mutton cannot -be said to be sufficiently roasted, until -it has acquired throughout the whole -mass a temperature of 158°. But poultry -may be well cooked when the inner parts -have attained a temperature of 130° to -140°. This depends on the greater -amount of blood which beef and mutton -contain, the colouring matter of blood -not being coagulable under 158°.</p> - - -<h3>ROLLS, Excellent.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow 1 oz. of butter, ¼ pint of milk, -a large teaspoonful of yeast, a little salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Warm the butter in the milk, -add to it the yeast and salt, and mix -these ingredients well together. Put the -flour into a pan, stir in the above ingredients, -and let the dough rise, covered -in a warm place. Knead it well, make -it into rolls, let them rise again for a few -minutes, and bake in a quick oven. -Richer rolls may be made by adding 1 -or 2 eggs and a larger proportion of -butter, and their appearance improved -by brushing the tops over with yolk of -egg or a little milk. <i>Time.</i>—1 lb. of -flour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 -minutes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 292px;"> -<img src="images/illus-292.jpg" width="292" height="87" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROLLS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>ROLLS, Hot.</h3> - -<p>This dish, although very unwholesome -and indigestible, is nevertheless a -great favourite, and eaten by many -persons. As soon as the rolls come from -the baker’s, they should be put into the -oven, which, in the early part of the -morning, is sure not to be very hot; and -the rolls must not be buttered until -wanted. When they are quite hot, -divide them lengthwise into three; put -some thin flakes of good butter between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span> -the slices, press the rolls together, and -put them in the oven for a minute or -two, but not longer, or the butter would -oil; take them out of the oven, spread -the butter equally over, divide the rolls -in half, and put them on to a very hot -clean dish, and send them instantly to -table.</p> - - -<h3>ROLLS, Fluted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste, the white of -an egg, sifted sugar, jelly or preserve. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make some good puff-paste -(trimmings answer very well for little -dishes of this sort); roll it out to the -thickness of ¼ inch, and with a round fluted -paste-cutter stamp out as many round -pieces as may be required; brush over -the upper side with the white of an egg; -roll up the pieces, pressing the paste -lightly together where it joins; place -the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake -for about ¼ hour. A few minutes before -they are done, brush them over with the -white of an egg; strew over sifted sugar, -put them back in the oven; and when -the icing is firm and of a pale brown -colour, they are done. Place a strip of -jelly or preserve across each roll, dish -them high on a napkin, and serve cold. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour before being iced; 5 to -10 minutes after. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—½ lb. of puff-paste for 2 -dishes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>ROUX, Brown, a French Thickening -for Gravies and Sauces.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of butter, 9 oz. of -flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Melt the butter in a stewpan -over a slow fire, and dredge in, very -gradually, the flour; stir it till of a light-brown -colour—to obtain this do it very -slowly, otherwise the flour will burn and -impart a bitter taste to the sauce it is -mixed with. Pour it in a jar, and keep -it for use: it will remain good some time. -<i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>ROUX, White, for thickening -White Sauces.</h3> - -<p>Allow the same proportions of butter -and flour as in the preceding recipe, -and proceed in the same manner as for -brown roux, but do not keep it on the -fire too long, and take care not to let it -colour. This is used for thickening white -sauce. Pour it into a jar to use when -wanted. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—A dessertspoonful will thicken -a pint of gravy.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Besides the above, sauces may -be thickened with potato flour, ground -rice, baked flour, arrowroot, &c.: the -latter will be found far preferable to the -ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice -of bread, toasted and added to gravies, -answers the two purposes of thickening -and colouring them.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Steaks, butter or clarified -dripping. <i>Mode.</i>—Although broiling is -a far superior method of cooking steaks -to frying them, yet, when the cook is not -very expert, the latter mode may be -adopted; and, when properly done, the -dish may really look very inviting, and -the flavour be good. The steaks should -be cut rather thinner than for broiling, -and with a small quantity of fat to each. -Put some butter or clarified dripping -into a frying-pan; let it get quite hot, -then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently -until done, which will be in -about 8 minutes, or rather more, should -the steaks be very thick. Serve on a -very hot dish, in which put a small piece -of butter and a tablespoonful of ketchup, -and season with pepper and salt. They -should be sent to table quickly, as when -cold the steaks are entirely spoiled. -<i>Time.</i>—8 minutes for a medium-sized -steak, rather longer for a very thick one. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> all -the year, but not good in summer, as the -meat cannot hang to get tender.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Where much gravy is liked, -make it in the following manner:—As -soon as the steaks are done, dish them, -pour a little boiling water into the frying-pan, -add a seasoning of pepper and salt, -a small piece of butter, and a tablespoonful -of Harvey’s sauce or mushroom ketchup. -Hold the pan over the fire for a -minute or two, just let the gravy simmer, -then pour on the steak, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><a id="RUMP-STEAK_AND_KIDNEY_PUDDING"></a>RUMP-STEAK AND KIDNEY -PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of rump-steak, -2 kidneys, seasoning to taste of salt and -black pepper, suet crust made with milk -(<i>see</i> <a href="#PASTE_Common">Pastry</a>), in the proportion of 6 oz. of -suet to each 1 lb. of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -some tender rump-steak (that which -has been hung a little time), and divide -it into pieces about an inch square, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span> -cut each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the -dish with crust made with suet and flour -in the above proportion, leaving a small -piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then -cover the bottom with a portion of the -steak and a few pieces of kidney; season -with salt and pepper (some add a little -flour to thicken the gravy, but it is not -necessary), and then add another layer -of steak, kidney, and seasoning. Proceed -in this manner till the dish is full, when -pour in sufficient water to come within -2 inches of the top of the basin. Moisten -the edges of the crust, cover the pudding -over, press the two crusts together, that -the gravy may not escape, and turn up -the overhanging paste. Wring out a -cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up -the pudding; put it into boiling water, -and let it boil for at least 4 hours. If -the water diminishes, always replenish -with some hot in a jug, as the pudding -should be kept covered all the time, and -not allowed to stop boiling. When the -cloth is removed, cut out a round piece -in the top of the crust, to prevent the -pudding bursting, and send it to table in -the basin, either in an ornamental dish, -or with a napkin pinned round it. Serve -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—For a pudding with -2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but more suitable in winter.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Rump-steak pudding may be -very much enriched by adding a few -oysters or mushrooms. In Sussex, the -inhabitants are noted for their savoury -puddings, which are usually made in the -manner just described. It differs from -the general way of making them, as the -meat is cut up into very small pieces -and the basin is differently shaped, resembling -a very large saucer: on trial, -this pudding will be found far nicer, and -more full of gravy, than when laid in -large pieces in the dish.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK AND OYSTER -SAUCE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 dozen oysters, ingredients -for oyster sauce, 2 lb. of rump-steak, -seasoning to taste of pepper and -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the oyster sauce, -and when that is ready, put it by -the side of the fire, but do not let -it keep boiling. Have the steaks cut -of an equal thickness, broil them over a -very clear fire, turning them often, that -the gravy may not escape. In about 8 -minutes they will be done, when put -them on a very hot dish; smother with -the oyster sauce, and the remainder send -to table in a tureen. Serve quickly. -<i>Time.</i>—About 8 to 10 minutes, according -to the thickness of the steak. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to April.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK or BEEF-STEAK, -Broiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Steaks, a piece of butter -the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 1 -tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup -or Harvey’s sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—As -the success of a good broil so much -depends on the state of the fire, see that -it is bright and clear, and perfectly free -from smoke, and do not add any fresh -fuel just before you require to use the -gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the -fire, put on the gridiron for a few minutes, -to get thoroughly hot through; -rub it with a piece of fresh suet, to prevent -the meat from sticking, and lay on -the steaks, which should be cut of an -equal thickness, about ¾ of an inch, or -rather thinner, and level them by beating -them as <i>little</i> as possible with a rolling -pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs -(if these are not at hand, stick a -fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy -escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes -they will be done. Have ready a very -hot dish, into which put the ketchup, -and, when liked, a little minced shalot; -dish up the steaks, rub them over with -butter, and season with pepper and salt. -The exact time for broiling steaks must -be determined by taste, whether they -are liked underdone or well done; more -than 10 minutes for a steak -¾ inch in thickness, we think, would -spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. -Great expedition is necessary in sending -broiled steaks to table; and, to have -them in perfection, they should not be -cooked till everything else prepared for -dinner has been dished up, as their excellence -entirely depends on their being -served very hot. Garnish with scraped -horseradish, or slices of cucumber. -Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other -sauces, are frequent accompaniments to -rump-steak, but true lovers of this -English dish generally reject all additions -but pepper and salt. <i>Time.</i>—8 to 10<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span> -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow ½ lb. to each person; -if the party consist entirely of gentlemen, -¾ lb. will not be too much. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but not good in the -height of summer, as the meat cannot -hang long enough to be tender.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of rump-steak, -seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and -black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of -an egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the steaks cut -from a rump that has hung a few days, -that they may be tender, and be particular -that every portion is perfectly -sweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about -3 inches long and 2 wide, allowing a -<i>small</i> piece of fat to each piece of lean, -and arrange the meat in layers in a pie-dish. -Between each layer sprinkle a -seasoning of salt, pepper, and, when -liked, a few grains of cayenne. Fill the -dish sufficiently with meat to support -the crust, and to give it a nice raised -appearance when baked, and not to -look flat and hollow. Pour in sufficient -water to half fill the dish, and -border it with paste (<i>see</i> <a href="#PASTE_Common">Pastry</a>); brush -it over with a little water, and put -on the cover; slightly press down the -edges with the thumb, and trim off close -to the dish. Ornament the pie with -leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape -that fancy may direct, brush it over -with the beaten yolk of an egg; make a -hole in the top of the crust, and bake in -a hot oven for about 1½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—In -a hot oven, 1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -for this size, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or -8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK PUDDING, -Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, not -quite 1 pint of milk, salt to taste, 1½ lb. -of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the steaks into nice -square pieces, with a small quantity of -fat, and the kidney divide into small -pieces. Make a batter of flour, eggs, -and milk in the above proportion; lay -a little of it at the bottom of a pie-dish; -then put in the steaks and kidney, which -should be well seasoned with pepper and -salt, and pour over the remainder of the -batter, and bake for 1½ hour in a brisk -but not fierce oven. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK, Rolled, Roasted, -and Stuffed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of rump-steak, -forcemeat, pepper and salt to taste, -clarified butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the steaks -cut rather thick from a well-hung -rump of beef, and sprinkle over them a -seasoning of pepper and salt. Make -a forcemeat; spread it over <i>half</i> of -the steak; roll it up, bind and -skewer it firmly, that the forcemeat -may not escape, and roast it before a -nice clear fire for about 1½ hour, or rather -longer, should the roll be very large -and thick. Keep it constantly basted -with butter, and serve with brown -gravy, some of which must be poured -round the steak, and the remainder -sent to table in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but best in winter.</p> - - -<h3>RUMP-STEAK WITH FRIED -POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX -POMMES-DE-TERRE (à la -Mode Française).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lb. of steak, 8 potatoes, -¼ lb. of butter, salt and pepper to -taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter into a frying or -sauté pan, set it over the fire, and let it -get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes -into long thin slices; put them into the -hot butter, and fry them till of a nice -brown colour. Now broil the steaks over -a bright clear fire, turning them frequently, -that every part may be equally -done: as they should not be thick, -5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs -and seasoning in the butter the potatoes -were fried in, pour it under the steak, -and place the fried potatoes round, as a -garnish. To have this dish in perfection, -a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should -be used, as the meat is generally so much -more tender than that of the rump, and -the steaks should be cut about 1/3 of an -inch in thickness. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to -broil the steaks, and about the same time -to fry the potatoes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year; but not so good in -warm weather, as the meat cannot hang -to get tender.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>RUMP- or BEEF-STEAK, Stewed -(an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 2 lbs. of beef or -rump steak, 3 onions, 2 turnips, 3 carrots, -2 or 3 oz. of butter, ½ pint of water, -1 teaspoonful of salt, ½ do. of pepper, -1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful -of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the steaks -cut tolerably thick and rather lean; -divide them into convenient-sized pieces, -and fry them in the butter a nice brown -on both sides. Cleanse and pare the -vegetables, cut the onions and carrots -into thin slices, and the turnips into -dice, and fry these in the same fat that -the steaks were done in. Put all into a -saucepan, add ½ pint of water, or rather -more should it be necessary, and simmer -very gently for 2½ or 3 hours; when -nearly done, skim well, add salt, pepper, -and ketchup in the above proportions, -and thicken with a tablespoonful of -flour mixed with 2 of cold water. Let it -boil up for a minute or two after the -thickening is added, and serve. When -a vegetable-scoop is at hand, use it to -cut the vegetables in fanciful shapes; -and tomato, Harvey’s sauce, or walnut-liquor -may be used to flavour the gravy. -It is less rich if stewed the previous day, -so that the fat may be taken off when -cold; when wanted for table, it will -merely require warming through. -<i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RUSKS, to make (Suffolk Recipe).</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 198px;"> -<img src="images/illus-296.jpg" width="198" height="59" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">RUSKS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of flour -allow 2 oz. of butter, ¼ pint of milk, -2 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful -of yeast. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk and -butter into a saucepan, and keep shaking -it round until the latter is melted. Put -the flour into a basin with the sugar, -mix these well -together, and -beat the eggs. -Stir them with -the yeast to the -milk and butter, -and with this liquid work the flour into -a smooth dough. Cover a cloth over the -basin, and leave the dough to rise by the -side of the fire; then knead it, and divide -it into 12 pieces; place them in a -brisk oven, and bake for about 20 minutes. -Take the rusks out, break them -in half, and then set them in the oven -to get crisp on the other side. When -cold, they should be put into tin canisters -to keep them dry; and if intended -for the cheese course, the sifted -sugar should be omitted. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes -to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to -render them crisp after being divided. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 2 -dozen rusks. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>RUSKS, Italian.</h3> - -<p>A stale Savoy or lemon cake may be -converted into very good rusks in the -following manner. Cut the cake into -slices, divide each slice in two; put them -on a baking-sheet, in a slow oven, and -when they are of a nice brown and quite -hard, they are done. They should be -kept in a closed tin canister in a dry -place, to preserve their crispness.</p> - - -<h3>SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, -for Geese, Ducks, and Pork.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, -¼ lb. of bread-crumbs, 1½ oz. of -butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel the onions, put them into -boiling water, let them simmer for 5 minutes -or rather longer, and just before -they are taken out, put in the sage-leaves -for a minute or two to take off -their rawness. Chop both these very -fine, add the bread, seasoning, and -butter, and work the whole together -with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing -will be ready for use. It should be -rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves -should be very finely chopped. -Many cooks do not parboil the onions in -the manner just stated, but merely use -them raw. The stuffing then, however, -is not nearly so mild, and, to many -tastes, its strong flavour would be very -objectionable. When made for goose, -a portion of the liver of the bird, simmered -for a few minutes and very finely -minced, is frequently added to this stuffing; -and where economy is studied, the -egg may be dispensed with. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 5 minutes to simmer -the onions. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 goose, or a pair -of ducks.</p> - - -<h3>SAGO PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls -of sago, the rind of ½ lemon,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span> -3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1½ oz. of butter, -grated nutmeg, puff-paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, -place it by the side of the fire, and -let it remain until the milk is well flavoured -with the lemon; then strain it, -mix with it the sago and sugar, and -simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let -the mixture cool a little, and stir to it -the eggs, which should be well beaten, -and the butter. Line the edges of a pie-dish -with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, -grate a little nutmeg over the top, -and bake from ¾ to 1 hour. <i>Time.</i>—¾ to -1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The above pudding may be -boiled instead of baked; but then allow -2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil -the pudding in a buttered basin from 1¼ -to 1¾ hour.</p> - - -<h3>SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET -PUDDINGS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 tablespoonful of sago, -1/3 pint of water, ¼ pint of port or sherry, -the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, -sugar to taste; when the flavour is liked, -a little pounded cinnamon. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the sago in two or three waters; -then put it into a saucepan, with the -water and lemon-peel; let it simmer gently -by the side of the fire for 10 minutes, then -take out the lemon-peel, add the remaining -ingredients, give one boil, and serve. -Be particular to strain the lemon-juice -before adding it to the sauce. This, on -trial, will be found a delicious accompaniment -to various boiled puddings, -such as those made of bread, raisins, -rice, &c. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SAGO SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts -of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash the sago in -boiling water, add it, by degrees, to -the boiling stock, and simmer till the -sago is entirely dissolved, and forms a -sort of jelly. <i>Time.</i>—Nearly an hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up -with a little cream, previously boiled, and -added at the moment of serving, much -improves this soup.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 heads of celery, 1 pint -of French beans, lettuce, and endive. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the celery and beans separately -until tender, and cut the celery -into pieces about 2 inches long. Put -these into a salad-bowl or dish; pour over -either of the salad dressings, and garnish -the dish with a little lettuce finely -chopped, blanched endive, or a few tufts -of boiled cauliflower. This composition, -if less agreeable than vegetables in their -raw state, is more wholesome; for salads, -however they may be compounded, when -eaten uncooked, prove to some people -indigestible. Tarragon, chervil, burnet, -and boiled onion, may be added to the -above salad with advantage, as also -slices of cold meat, poultry, or fish. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—From July to October.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 teaspoonful of mixed -mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded -sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls -of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of -vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the mixed mustard into a -salad-bowl with the sugar, and add the -oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and -mixing all these ingredients well together. -Proceed in this manner with the -milk and vinegar, which must be added -very <i>gradually</i>, or the sauce will curdle. -Put in the seasoning, when the mixture -will be ready for use. If this dressing -is properly made, it will have a soft -creamy appearance, and will be found -very delicious with crab, or cold fried -fish (the latter cut into dice), as well as -with salads. In mixing salad dressings, -the ingredients cannot be added <i>too -gradually</i>, or <i>stirred too much</i>. <i>Average -cost</i>, for this quantity, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -a small salad.</p> - -<p>This recipe can be confidently recommended -by the editress, to whom it was -given by an intimate friend noted for -her salads.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of -mixed mustard, ¼ teaspoonful of white -pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, -salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, -vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the eggs until -hard, which will be in about ¼ hour or -20 minutes; put them into cold water, -take off the shells, and pound the yolks -in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then -add all the other ingredients, except -the vinegar, and stir them well until<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span> -the whole are thoroughly incorporated -one with the other. Pour in sufficient -vinegar to make it of the consistency -of cream, taking care to add but little -at a time. The mixture will then be -ready for use. <i>Average cost</i>, for this -quantity, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a moderate-sized -salad.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The whites of the eggs, cut -into rings, will serve very well as a -garnishing to the salad.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of -salad oil, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, -¼ teaspoonful of salt, ½ teaspoonful of -pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, -6 tablespoonfuls of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Prepare -and mix the ingredients by the -preceding recipe, and be very particular -that the whole is well stirred.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In making salads, the vegetables, -&c., should never be added to the -sauce very long before they are wanted -for table; the dressing, however, may -always be prepared some hours before -required. Where salads are much in -request, it is a good plan to bottle off -sufficient dressing for a few days’ consumption, -as, thereby, much time and -trouble are saved. If kept in a cool -place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days.</p> - -<p><i>Poetic Recipe for Salad.</i>—The Rev. -Sydney Smith’s recipe.</p> - - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">“Two large potatoes, pass’d through kitchen sieve,</div> -<div class="verse">Smoothness and softness to the salad give:</div> -<div class="verse">Of mordent mustard add a single spoon,</div> -<div class="verse">Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;</div> -<div class="verse">But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,</div> -<div class="verse">To add a double quantity of salt:</div> -<div class="verse">Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,</div> -<div class="verse">And twice with vinegar procured from ‘town;’</div> -<div class="verse">True flavour needs it, and your poet begs,</div> -<div class="verse">The pounded yellow of two well-boil’d eggs.</div> -<div class="verse">Let onion’s atoms lurk within the bowl,</div> -<div class="verse">And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;</div> -<div class="verse">And, lastly, in the flavour’d compound toss</div> -<div class="verse">A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.</div> -<div class="verse">Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat,</div> -<div class="verse">’Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat.</div> -<div class="verse">Back to the world he’d turn his weary soul,</div> -<div class="verse">And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl.”</div> -</div></div></div> - - -<h3>SALAD, French.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Lettuces; a little chopped -burnet. To every 4 tablespoonfuls of -oil allow 1½ of either Tarragon or plain -<i>French vinegar</i>; 1 saltspoonful of salt, -½ saltspoonful of pepper. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the lettuces, shake them in a cloth, and -cut them into inch lengths. Put the -lettuce into a salad-bowl, sprinkle over -the chopped burnet, and mix these well -together. Put the salt and pepper into -the salad-spoon, moisten with the vinegar, -disperse this amongst the salad, pour the -oil over, and mix the whole well together -for at least five minutes, when the preparation -will be ready for table. This is -the very simple and expeditious mode of -preparing a salad generally adopted by -our French neighbours, who are so noted -for the delicious manner in which they -dress their bowl. Success will not be -obtained if the right vinegar is not procured, -therefore we advise our friends -who wish to excel in making a French -salad to procure a bottle of the best -French vinegar, flavoured with Tarragon -or not as the taste may dictate. Those -persons living in or near London, can -purchase the vinegar of Messrs. Crosse -& Blackwell, Soho Square, at whose establishment -the quality of this important -ingredient in a salad can be relied on. -<i>Time.</i>—To be stirred at least 5 minutes -after all the ingredients are put in. -<i>Sufficient.</i> Allow 2 moderate-sized -lettuces for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i> -Plentiful in summer, but scarce and -dear during the winter season.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD, Fresh Fruit (A Dessert -Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Mode.</i>—Fruit salads are made by -stripping the fruit from the stalks, piling -it on a dish, and sprinkling over it finely -pounded sugar. They may be made of -strawberries, raspberries, currants, or -any of these fruits mixed; peaches also -make a very good salad. After the sugar -is sprinkled over, about 6 large tablespoonfuls -of wine or brandy, or 3 tablespoonfuls -of liqueur, should be poured in -the middle of the fruit; and, when the -flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon -may be added. In helping the -fruit, it should be lightly stirred, that -the wine and sugar may be equally distributed. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—1½ pint of fruit, -with 3 oz. of pounded sugar, for 4 or 5 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in summer.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD, Red Cabbage.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A small red cabbage, 2 -teaspoonfuls of salt, ½ pint of vinegar, 3 -teaspoonfuls of oil, a small quantity of -cayenne pepper. <i>Mode.</i>—Take off the -outside leaves of a fresh red cabbage,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span> -and cut the remainder very finely into -small thin slices. Mix with the cabbage -the above salad ingredients, and let it -remain for two days, when it will be fit -for use. This salad will keep very well -for a few days. The quantity of the -ingredients may of course be a little -varied, according to taste. <i>Time.</i>—2 -days. <i>Average cost</i>, from 2<i>d.</i> to 3<i>d.</i> -each. <i>Seasonable</i> in July and August.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD, Summer.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 208px;"> -<img src="images/illus-299.jpg" width="208" height="136" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SALAD IN BOWL.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lettuces, 2 handfuls of -mustard-and-cress, 10 young radishes, a -few slices of cucumber. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the -herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad, -and, if at all stale or dead-looking, let -them lie in water for an hour or two, -which will very much refresh them. -Wash and -carefully pick -them over, -remove any -decayed or -worm-eaten -leaves, and -drain them -thoroughly -by swinging -them gently in a clean cloth. With a -silver knife, cut the lettuces into small -pieces, and the radishes and cucumbers -into thin slices; arrange all these ingredients -lightly on a dish, with the -mustard-and-cress, and pour under, but -not over the salad, either of the salad -dressings, and do not stir it up until it is -to be eaten. It may be garnished with -hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, sliced -cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, -and many other things that -taste will always suggest to make a pretty -and elegant dish. In making a good -salad, care must be taken to have the -herbs freshly gathered, and <i>thoroughly -drained</i> before the sauce is added to -them, or it will be watery and thin. -Young spring onions, cut small, are by -many persons considered an improvement -to salads; but, before these are -added, the cook should always consult -the taste of her employer. Slices of cold -meat or poultry added to a salad make a -convenient and quickly-made summer -luncheon-dish; or cold fish, flaked, -will also be found exceedingly nice, -mixed with it. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> for a -salad for 5 or 6 persons; but more expensive -when the herbs are forced. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from May to September.</p> - - -<h3>SALAD, Winter.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Endive, mustard-and-cress, -boiled beetroot, 3 or 4 hard-boiled -eggs, celery. <i>Mode.</i>—The above ingredients -form the principal constituents -of a winter salad, and may be converted -into a very pretty dish, by nicely contrasting -the various colours, and by -tastefully garnishing it. Shred the celery -into thin pieces, after having carefully -washed and cut away all worm-eaten -pieces; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress -free from grit, and arrange -these high in the centre of a salad-bowl -or dish; garnish with the hard-boiled -eggs and beetroot, both of which should -be cut in slices; and pour into the dish, -but not over the salad, either of the salad -dressings. Never dress a salad long -before it is required for table, as, by -standing, it loses its freshness and pretty -crisp and light appearance; the sauce, -however, may always be prepared a few -hours beforehand, and when required to -use, the herbs laid lightly over it. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> for a salad for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the end of September to March.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON (à la Genévése).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 slices of salmon, 2 -chopped shalots, a little parsley, a small -bunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, -pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, -4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, ½ pint of -white stock, thickening of butter and -flour, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, -the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the -bottom of a stewpan over with butter, -and put in the shalots, herbs, bay-leaves, -carrots, mace, and seasoning; -stir them for 10 minutes over a clear -fire, and add the Madeira or sherry; -simmer gently for ½ hour, and strain -through a sieve over the fish, which stew -in this gravy. As soon as the fish is -sufficiently cooked, take away all the -liquor, except a little to keep the salmon -moist, and put it into another stewpan; -add the stock, thicken with butter and -flour, and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, -cayenne, and salt; lay the salmon -on a hot dish, pour over it part of the -sauce, and serve the remainder in a -tureen. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span> -for this quantity, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 or 5 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of salt to each -gallon of water,—sufficient water to -cover the fish. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale and clean -the fish, and be particular that no blood -is left inside; lay it in the fish-kettle with -sufficient cold water to cover it, adding -salt in the above proportion. Bring it -quickly to a boil, take off all the scum, -and let it simmer gently till the fish is -done, which will be when the meat separates -easily from the bone. Experience -alone can teach the cook to fix the time -for boiling fish; but it is especially to be -remembered, that it should never be -under-dressed, as then nothing is more -unwholesome. Neither let it remain in -the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, -as that would render it insipid, watery, -and colourless. Drain it, and if not -wanted for a few minutes, keep it warm -by means of warm cloths laid over it. -Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut -lemon and parsley, and send lobster or -shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter to -table with it. A dish of dressed cucumber -usually accompanies this fish. <i>Time.</i>—8 -minutes to each lb. for large thick -salmon; 6 minutes for thin fish. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient</i>, ½ lb., or rather less, for -each person. <i>Seasonable</i> from April to -August.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Cut lemon should be put on -the table with this fish; and a little of -the juice squeezed over it is regarded by -many persons as a most agreeable addition. -Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs, -considered especially adapted -to be served with salmon.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Choose Salmon.</span>—To be good, -the belly should be firm and thick, -which may readily be ascertained by feeling -it with the thumb and finger. The -circumstance of this fish having <i>red</i> gills, -though given as a standing rule in most -cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, -is not at all to be relied on, as this -quality can be easily given them by -art.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 slices of salmon, ¼ lb. -butter, ½ teaspoonful of chopped parsley, -1 shalot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Lay the salmon -in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter -over it, and add the other ingredients, -rubbing a little of the seasoning into the -fish; baste it frequently; when done, -take it out and drain for a minute or -two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce -over it, and serve. Salmon dressed in -this way, with tomato sauce, is very -delicious. <i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from April to -August.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, Collared.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A piece of salmon, say -3 lb., a high seasoning of salt, pounded -mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, -3 bay-leaves. <i>Mode.</i>—Split the fish; -scale, bone, and wash it thoroughly -clean; wipe it, and rub in the seasoning -inside and out; roll it up, and bind -firmly; lay it in a kettle, cover it with -vinegar and water (1/3 vinegar, in proportion -to the water); add the bay-leaves -and a good seasoning of salt and -whole pepper, and simmer till done. Do -not remove the lid. Serve with melted -butter or anchovy sauce. For preserving -the collared fish, boil up the -liquor in which it was cooked, and add -a little more vinegar. Pour over when -cold. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour, or rather more.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, Crimped.</h3> - -<p>Salmon is frequently dressed in this -way at many fashionable tables, but -must be very fresh, and cut into slices -2 or 3 inches thick. Lay these in cold -salt and water for 1 hour; have ready -some boiling water, salted, and well -skimmed; put in the fish, and simmer -gently for ¼ hour, or rather more; should -it be very thick, garnish the same as -boiled salmon, and serve with the same -sauces. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour, more or less, -according to size.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Never use vinegar with salmon, -as it spoils the taste and colour of the -fish.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, Curried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any remains of boiled -salmon, ¾ pint of strong or medium -stock, 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, -1 teaspoonful of Harvey’s sauce, -1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. of -butter, the juice of ½ lemon, cayenne -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span> -onions into small pieces, and fry them of -a pale brown in the butter; add all the -ingredients but the salmon, and simmer -gently till the onion is tender, occasionally -stirring the contents; cut the salmon -into small square pieces, carefully take -away all skin and bone, lay it in the -stewpan, and let it gradually heat through; -but do not allow it to boil long. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -cold fish, 9<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SALMON CUTLETS.</h3> - -<p>Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season -them with pepper and salt; butter a -sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a -separate piece, with their ends twisted; -broil gently over a clear fire, and serve -with anchovy or caper sauce. When -higher seasoning is required, add a few -chopped herbs and a little spice. <i>Time.</i>—5 -to 10 minutes.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, Pickled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salmon, ½ oz. of whole -pepper, ½ oz. of whole allspice, 1 teaspoonful -of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal -quantities of vinegar and the liquor in -which the fish was boiled. <i>Mode.</i>—After -the fish comes from table, lay it in a -nice dish with a cover to it, as it should -be excluded from the air, and take away -the bone; boil the liquor and vinegar -with the other ingredients for 10 minutes, -and let it stand to get cold; pour it over -the salmon, and in 12 hours this will be -fit for the table. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, Potted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salmon, pounded mace, -cloves, and pepper to taste; 3 bay-leaves, -¼ lb. butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin the salmon, -and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a -cloth (water would spoil it); cut it into -square pieces, which rub with salt; let -them remain till thoroughly drained, -then lay them in a dish with the other -ingredients, and bake. When quite -done, drain them from the gravy, press -into pots for use, and, when cold, pour -over it clarified butter. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, to Cure.</h3> - -<p>This process consists in splitting the -fish, rubbing it with salt, and then putting -it in to pickle in tubs provided for -the purpose. Here it is kept for about -six weeks, when it is taken out, pressed -and packed in casks, with layers of salt.</p> - - -<h3>SALMON, to Help.</h3> - -<p>First run the knife quite down to the -bone, along the side of the fish, from -<i>a</i> to <i>b</i>, and also from <i>c</i> to <i>d</i>. Then help -the thick part lengthwise, that is, in the -direction of the lines from <i>a</i> to <i>b</i>; and -the thin part breadthwise, that is, in the -direction of the lines from <i>e</i> to <i>f</i>, as -shown in the engraving. A slice of the -thick part should always be accompanied -by a smaller piece of the thin from the -belly, where lies the fat of the fish.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 345px;"> -<img src="images/illus-301.jpg" width="345" height="181" alt="diagram of salmon sliced" /> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Many persons, in carving -salmon, make the mistake of slicing -the thick part of this fish in the opposite -direction to that we have stated; and -thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the -beauty of its appearance is destroyed.</p> - - -<h3>SALSIFY, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salsify; to each ½ gallon -of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of -salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of -lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Scrape the roots -gently, so as to strip them only of their -outside peel; cut them into pieces about -4 inches long, and, as they are peeled, -throw them into water with which has -been mixed a little lemon-juice, to prevent -their discolouring. Put them into -boiling water, with salt, butter, and -lemon-juice in the above proportion, and -let them boil rapidly until tender; try -them with a fork; and, when it penetrates -easily, they are done. Drain the -salsify, and serve with a good white sauce -or French melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—30 to -50 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This vegetable may be also -boiled, sliced, and fried in batter of a -nice brown. When crisp and a good -colour, they should be served with fried -parsley in the centre of the dish, and a -little fine salt sprinkled over the salsify.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SANDWICHES, Victoria.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs; their weight in -pounded sugar, butter, and flour; ¼ saltspoonful -of salt, a layer of any kind of -jam or marmalade. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the -butter to a cream; dredge in the flour -and pounded sugar; stir these ingredients -well together, and add the eggs, -which should be previously thoroughly -whisked. When the mixture has been -well beaten for about 10 minutes, butter -a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the -batter, and bake it in a moderate oven -for 20 minutes. Let it cool, spread one -half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, -place over it the other half of the -cake, press the pieces slightly together, -and then cut it into long finger-pieces; -pile them in cross-bars, on a glass dish, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3><a id="SAUCES"></a>SAUCES, General Remarks upon.</h3> - -<p>The preparation and appearance of -sauces and gravies are of the highest -consequence, and in nothing does the -talent and taste of the cook more display -itself. Their special adaptability to the -various viands they are to accompany -cannot be too much studied, in order -that they may harmonize and blend with -them as perfectly, so to speak, as does a -pianoforte accompaniment with the voice -of the singer.</p> - -<p>The general basis of most gravies and -some sauces is the same stock as that -used for soups; and, by the employment -of these, with, perhaps, an additional -slice of ham, a little spice, a few herbs, -and a slight flavouring from some cold -sauce or ketchup, very nice gravies may -be made for a very small expenditure. -A milt (either of a bullock or sheep), the -shank-end of mutton that has already -been dressed, and the necks and feet of -poultry may all be advantageously used -for gravy, where much is not required. -It may, then, be established as a rule, -that there exists no necessity for good -gravies to be expensive, and that there -is no occasion, as many would have the -world believe, to buy ever so many pounds -of fresh meat, in order to furnish an ever -so little quantity of gravy.</p> - -<p>Brown sauces, generally speaking, -should scarcely be so thick as white -sauces; and it is well to bear in mind, -that all those which are intended to mask -the various dishes of poultry or meat, -should be of a sufficient consistency to -slightly adhere to the fowls or joints -over which they are poured. For browning -and thickening sauces, &c., browned -flour may be properly employed.</p> - -<p>Sauces should possess a decided character; -and whether sharp or sweet, -savoury or plain, they should carry out -their names in a distinct manner, although, -of course, not so much flavoured -as to make them too piquant on the one -hand, or too mawkish on the other.</p> - -<p>Gravies and sauces should be sent to -table very hot; and there is all the more -necessity for the cook to see to this -point, as, from their being usually served -in small quantities, they are more liable -to cool quickly than if they were in a -larger body. Those sauces, of which -cream or eggs form a component part, -should be well stirred, as soon as those -ingredients are added to them, and must -never be allowed to boil; as, in that case, -they would instantly curdle.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE à L’AURORE, for Trout, -Soles, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The spawn of 1 lobster, -1 oz. of butter, ½ pint of Béchamel, the -juice of ½ lemon, a high seasoning of salt -and cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Take the spawn -and pound it in a mortar with the -butter, until quite smooth, and work it -through a hair sieve. Put the Béchamel -into a stewpan, add the pounded spawn, -the lemon-juice, which must be strained, -and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and -salt; let it just simmer, but do not allow -it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of -the sauce will be spoiled. A small spoonful -of anchovy essence may be added at -pleasure. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a pair of large soles. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE à la MATELOTE, for Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of Espagnole, 3 -onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom -ketchup, ½ glass of port wine, a bunch -of sweet herbs, ½ bay-leaf, salt and -pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries of -allspice, a little liquor in which the fish -has been boiled, lemon-juice, and anchovy -sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice and fry the -onions of a nice brown colour, and put -them into a stewpan with the Espagnole, -ketchup, wine, and a little liquor in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span> -which the fish has been boiled. Add the -seasoning, herbs, and spices, and simmer -gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the -whole time; strain it through a fine hair -sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy -sauce, and pour it over the fish. This -sauce may be very much enriched by -putting in a few small quenelles, or forcemeat -balls made of fish, and also glazed -onions or mushrooms. These, however, -should not be added to the matelote till -it is dished. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This sauce originally took its -name as being similar to that which the -French sailor (<i>matelot</i>) employed as a -relish to the fish he caught and ate. In -some cases cider and perry were substituted -for the wine. The Norman <i>matelotes</i> -were very celebrated.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE ALLEMANDE,or German -Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of sauce tournée, -the yolks of 2 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir -to it the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which -have been previously strained. Let it -just simmer, but not boil, or the eggs -will curdle; and after they are added to -the sauce, it must be stirred without -ceasing. This sauce is a general favourite, -and is used for many made dishes. -<i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a -Store Sauce).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Green walnuts. To every -pint of juice, 1 lb. of anchovies, 1 drachm -of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm -of Jamaica ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To -every pint of the boiled liquor, ½ pint of -vinegar, ¼ pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls -of soy. <i>Mode.</i>—Pound the -walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the -juice through a strainer, and let it stand -to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and to -every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, -and cloves in the above proportion. Boil -all these together till the anchovies are -dissolved, then strain the juice again, put -in the shalots (8 to every pint), and boil -again. To every pint of the boiled liquor -add vinegar, wine, and soy, in the above -quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork -well and seal the corks. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this sauce from the beginning to -the middle of July, when walnuts are in -perfection for sauces and pickling. -<i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> for a quart.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Benton (to serve with -Hot or Cold Roast Beef).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 tablespoonful of -scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of -made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded -sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. -<i>Mode.</i>—Grate or scrape the horseradish -very fine, and mix it with the other ingredients, -which must be all well blended -together; serve in a tureen. With cold -meat, this sauce is a very good substitute -for pickles. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -2<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Mango Chetney, Bengal -Recipe for Making.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of moist sugar, -¾ lb. of salt, ¼ lb. of garlic, ¼ lb. of -onions, ¾ lb. of powdered ginger, ¼ lb. of -dried chilies, ¾ lb. of mustard-seed, ¾ lb. -of stoned raisins, 2 bottles of best -vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples. -<i>Mode.</i>—The sugar must be made into -syrup; the garlic, onions, and ginger be -finely pounded in a mortar; the mustard-seed -be washed in cold vinegar, and -dried in the sun; the apples be peeled, -cored, and sliced, and boiled in a bottle -and a half of the vinegar. When all this -is done, and the apples are quite cold, -put them into a large pan, and gradually -mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients, -including the remaining half-bottle -of vinegar. It must be well stirred -until the whole is thoroughly blended, -and then put into bottles for use. Tie a -piece of wet bladder over the mouths of -the bottles, after they are well corked. -This chetney is very superior to any -which can be bought, and one trial will -prove it to be delicious.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This recipe was given by a -native to an English lady, who had long -been a resident in India, and who, since -her return to her native country, has -become quite celebrated amongst her -friends for the excellence of this Eastern -relish.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Bread (to serve with Roast -Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of milk, ¾ lb. of -the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion; -pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span> -taste; 1 oz. of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel and -quarter the onion, and simmer it in the -milk till perfectly tender. Break the -bread, which should be stale, into small -pieces, carefully picking out any hard or -side pieces; put it in a very clean saucepan, -strain the milk over it, cover it up, -and let it remain for an hour to soak. -Now beat it up with a fork very smoothly, -add a seasoning of pounded mace, -cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. of butter; -give the whole one boil, and serve. To -enrich this sauce, a small quantity of -cream may be added just before sending -it to table. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 1¾ hour. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to serve with a turkey, pair of -fowls, or brace of partridges.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Bread (to serve with Roast -Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Giblets of poultry, ¾ lb. -of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion, -12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt -to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or -melted butter, 1 pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the giblets, with the head, neck, -legs, &c., into a stewpan; add the onion, -pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than -1 pint of water. Let this simmer for an -hour, when strain the liquor over the -bread, which should be previously grated -or broken into small pieces. Cover up -the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by -the side of the fire; then beat the sauce -up with a fork until no lumps remain, -and the whole is nice and smooth. Let it -boil for 3 or 4 minutes; keep stirring it -until it is rather thick; when add 3 tablespoonfuls -of good melted butter or cream, -and serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—2¼ hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Christopher North’s, for -Meat or Game.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 glass of port wine, 2 -tablespoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce, 1 dessertspoonful -of mushroom ketchup, ditto -of pounded white sugar, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon juice, ½ teaspoonful of cayenne -pepper, ditto of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix all the -ingredients thoroughly together, and -beat the sauce gradually, by placing the -vessel in which it is made in a saucepan -of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, -and serve directly it is ready. This -sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep -good for a fortnight, and will be found -excellent.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Dutch, for Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ teaspoonful of flour, -2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, -4 tablespoonfuls of water, the yolks -of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon; salt to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all the ingredients, -except the lemon-juice, into a stewpan; -set it over the fire, and keep continually -stirring. When it is sufficiently thick, -take it off, as it should not boil. If, -however, it happens to curdle, strain the -sauce through a tammy, add the lemon-juice, -and serve. Tarragon vinegar may -be used instead of plain, and, by many, -is considered far preferable. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This sauce may be poured hot -over salad, and left to get quite cold, -when it should be thick, smooth, and -somewhat stiff. Excellent salads may be -made of hard eggs, or the remains of -salt fish flaked nicely from the bone, by -pouring over a little of the above mixture -when hot, and allowing it to cool.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Green Dutch, or Hollandaise -Verte.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 tablespoonfuls of -Béchamel, seasoning to taste of salt and -cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, -the juice of ½ a lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -Béchamel into a saucepan with the -seasoning, and bring it to a boil. Make -a green colouring by pounding some -parsley in a mortar, and squeezing all the -juice from it. Let this just simmer, -when add it to the sauce. A moment -before serving, put in the lemon-juice, -but not before; for otherwise the sauce -would turn yellow, and its appearance -be thus spoiled. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Epicurean, for Steaks, -Chops, Gravies, or Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ pint of walnut ketchup, -¼ pint of mushroom ditto, 2 tablespoonfuls -of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of -port wine; ¼ oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. -of shalots, ¼ oz. of cayenne, ¼ oz. of -cloves, ¾ pint of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the whole of the ingredients into a bottle, -and let it remain for a fortnight in a -warm place, occasionally shaking up the -contents. Strain, and bottle off for use. -This sauce will be found an agreeable -addition to gravies, hashes, stews, &c. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Genévése, for Salmon, -Trout, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 small carrot, a small -faggot of sweet herbs, including parsley, -1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), -1 bay-leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of -mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry, -1½ pint of white stock, thickening of -butter and flour, the juice of half a -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the onion and -carrot into small rings, and put them -into a stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, -bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; add -the butter, and simmer the whole very -gently over a slow fire until the onion is -quite tender. Pour in the stock and -sherry, and stew slowly for 1 hour, when -strain it off into a clean saucepan. Now -make a thickening of butter and flour, -put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire -until perfectly smooth and mellow, add -the lemon-juice, give one boil, when it -will be ready for table. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per -pint. <i>Sufficient</i>, half this quantity for -two slices of salmon.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Green, for Green Geese or -Ducklings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ pint of sorrel-juice, -1 glass of sherry, ½ pint of green gooseberries, -1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, -1 oz. of fresh butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the -gooseberries in water until they are quite -tender; mash them and press them -through a sieve; put the pulp into a -saucepan with the above ingredients; -simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve -very hot. <i>Time.</i>—3 or 4 minutes.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—We have given this recipe as -a sauce for green geese, thinking that -some of our readers might sometimes -require it; but, at the generality of -fashionable tables, it is now seldom or -never served.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Indian Chetney.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 oz. of sharp, sour -apples, pared and cored; 8 oz. of tomatoes, -8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown sugar, -8 oz. of stoned raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne, -4 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of garlic, -2 oz. of shalots, 3 quarts of vinegar, -1 quart of lemon juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the apples in small square pieces, and -add to them the other ingredients. Mix -the whole well together, and put in a -well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm -place, and stir every day for a month, -taking care to put on the lid after this -operation; strain, but do not squeeze it -dry; store it away in clean jars or -bottles for use, and the liquor will serve -as an excellent sauce for meat or fish. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this sauce when tomatoes -are in full season, that is, from the -beginning of September to the end of -October.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Italian (Brown).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few chopped mushrooms -and shalots, ½ pint of stock, ½ glass -of Madeira, the juice of ½ lemon, ½ teaspoonful -of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful -of chopped parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, -shalots, and Madeira, and stew -gently for ¼ hour, then add the remaining -ingredients, and let them just boil. -When the sauce is done enough, put it -in another stewpan, and warm it in a -<i>bain marie</i>. The mushrooms should not -be chopped long before they are wanted, -as they will then become black. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a small dish.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Italian (White).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of white stock, -2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, -1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, -1 slice of ham, minced very fine; ¼ pint -of Béchamel; salt to taste, a few -drops of garlic vinegar, ½ teaspoonful of -pounded sugar, a squeeze of lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the shalots and mushrooms -into a stewpan with the stock and -ham, and simmer very gently for ½ hour, -when add the Béchamel. Let it just boil -up, and then strain it through a tammy; -season with the above ingredients, and -serve very hot. If this sauce should not -have retained a nice white colour, a little -cream may be added. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 10<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for a moderate-sized dish.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—To preserve the colour of the -mushrooms after pickling, throw them -into water to which a little lemon-juice -has been added.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Leamington (an Excellent -Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, -Hashes, Soups, &c.—Author’s -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Walnuts. To each quart -of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts of vinegar,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span> -1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, -2 oz. of shalots, ¾ oz. of garlic, ½ pint of -port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Be very particular in -choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear -in the market; for they are more -easily bruised before they become hard -and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to -a pulp, strew some salt over them, and -let them remain thus for two or three -days, occasionally stirring and moving -them about. Press out the juice, and -to <i>each quart</i> of walnut-liquor allow the -above proportion of vinegar, soy, cayenne, -shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound -each ingredient separately in a mortar, -then mix them well together, and store -away for use in small bottles. The corks -should be well sealed. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -sauce should be made as soon as walnuts -are obtainable, from the beginning to the -middle of July.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Maître d’Hôtel (Hot), to -serve with Calf’s Head, Boiled -Eels, and different Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 slice of minced ham, a -few poultry-trimmings, 2 shalots, 1 clove -of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, ¾ pint of water, 2 oz. -of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, -1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley; -salt, pepper, and cayenne, to taste; -the juice of ½ large lemon, ¼ teaspoonful -of pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Put at the -bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, -and over it the poultry-trimmings (if -these are not at hand, veal should be -substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and -bay-leaf. Pour in the water, and let the -whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until -the liquor is reduced to a full ½ pint. -Then strain this gravy, put it in another -saucepan, make a thickening of butter -and flour in the above proportions, and -stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, -until it is perfectly smooth and rather -thick, care being taken that the butter -does not float on the surface. Skim well, -add the remaining ingredients, let the -sauce gradually heat, but do not allow -it to boil. If this sauce is intended -for an entrée, it is necessary to make -it of a sufficient thickness, so that -it may adhere to what it is meant to -cover. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Sufficient</i> for re-warming -the remains of ½ calf’s head, -or a small dish of cold flaked turbot, -cod, &c.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Maigre Maître d’Hôtel -(Hot.—Made without Meat).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of melted butter, -1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley, -salt and pepper to taste, the juice of -½ large lemon; when liked, 2 minced -shalots. <i>Mode.</i>—Make ½ pint of melted -butter, stir in the above ingredients, and -let them just boil; when it is ready to -serve. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per pint.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, -Roast Meat, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of butter, 1 small -carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small bunch of savoury -herbs, including parsley, ½ a bay-leaf, -2 slices of lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, -1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, -4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, ½ pint of -stock, 1 small lump of sugar, ¼ saltspoonful -of cayenne, salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -into a stewpan the butter, with the -carrots and shalots, both of which must -be cut into small slices; add the herbs, -bay-leaf, spices, and ham (which must be -minced rather finely), and let these ingredients -simmer over a slow fire, until -the bottom of the stewpan is covered -with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with -a wooden spoon, and put in the remaining -ingredients. Simmer very gently for -¼ hour, skim off every particle of fat, -strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve -very hot. Care must be taken that this -sauce be not made too acid, although it -should possess a sharpness indicated by -its name. Of course the above quantity -of vinegar may be increased or diminished -at pleasure, according to taste. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for a medium-sized dish of cutlets. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, a Good, for Various -Boiled Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, ¼ lb. of -pounded sugar, a wineglassful of brandy -or rum. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the butter to a -cream, until no lumps remain; add the -pounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir -once or twice until the whole is thoroughly -mixed, and serve. This sauce may either -be poured round the pudding or served -in a tureen, according to the taste or -fancy of the cook or mistress. <i>Average<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span> -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> for this quantity. <i>Sufficient</i> for -a pudding.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Plum-Pudding.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 wineglassful of brandy, -2 oz. of very fresh butter, 1 glass of Madeira, -pounded sugar to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the pounded sugar in a basin, with -part of the brandy and the butter; let it -stand by the side of the fire until it is -warm and the sugar and butter are dissolved; -then add the rest of the brandy, -with the Madeira. Either pour it over -the pudding, or serve in a tureen. This -is a very rich and excellent sauce. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> for this quantity. -<i>Sufficient</i> for a pudding made for 6 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Quin’s, an Excellent Fish -Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of walnut pickle, -½ pint of port wine, 1 pint of mushroom -ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen -shalots, ¼ pint of soy, ½ teaspoonful of -cayenne. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all the ingredients -into a saucepan, having previously -chopped the shalots and anchovies very -small; simmer for 15 minutes, strain, -and, when cold, bottle off for use; the -corks should be well sealed to exclude -the air. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Reading.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2½ pints of walnut pickle, -1½ oz. of shalots, 1 quart of spring water, -¾ pint of Indian soy, ½ oz. of bruised -ginger, ½ oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of -mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, ½ oz. of cayenne, -¼ oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves. -<i>Mode.</i>—Bruise the shalots in a mortar, -and put them in a stone jar with the -walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, -and let it boil until reduced to 2 pints. -Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients -except the bay-leaves, taking -care that they are well bruised, so that -the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; -put this also before the fire, and let it -boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When -the contents of both jars are sufficiently -cooked, mix them together, stirring them -well as you mix them, and submit them -to a slow boiling for ½ hour; cover closely, -and let them stand 24 hours in a cool -place; then open the jar and add the -bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer -closed down, when strain through a -flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. -The above quantities will make ½ gallon. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 3 hours. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -sauce may be made at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Robert, for Steaks, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, -1 teaspoonful of flour, 4 tablespoonfuls of -gravy or stock, salt and pepper to taste, -1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful -of vinegar, the juice of ½ lemon. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter into a stewpan, -set it on the fire, and, when browning, -throw in the onions, which must be cut -into small slices. Fry them brown, but -do not burn them; add the flour, shake -the onions in it, and give the whole -another fry. Put in the gravy and -seasoning, and boil it gently for 10 -minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, -vinegar, and lemon-juice; give it -one boil, and pour round the steaks, or -whatever dish the sauce has been prepared -for. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for about 2 lbs. of steak. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This sauce will be found an excellent -accompaniment to roast goose, -pork, mutton cutlets, and various other -dishes.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Soyer’s, for Plum-Pudding.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 3 eggs, -1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar, 1 gill -of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, -2 small wineglassfuls of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate -the yolks from the whites of -3 eggs, and put the former into a stewpan; -add the sugar, milk, and grated -lemon-rind, and stir over the fire until -the mixture thickens; but do <i>not</i> allow -it to <i>boil</i>. Put in the brandy; let the -sauce stand by the side of the fire, to -get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve -in a boat or tureen separately, or pour it -over the pudding. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, a Good, for Steaks.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 oz. of whole black -pepper, ½ oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of salt, -½ oz. grated horseradish, ½ oz. of pickled -shalots, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup or -walnut pickle. <i>Mode.</i>—Pound all the -ingredients finely in a mortar, and put<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span> -them into the ketchup or walnut-liquor. -Let them stand for a fortnight, when -strain off the liquor and bottle for use. -Either pour a little of the sauce over the -steaks, or mix it in the gravy. <i>Seasonable.</i>—This -can be made at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—In using a jar of pickled walnuts, -there is frequently left a large -quantity of liquor. This should be converted -into a sauce like the above, and -will be found a very useful relish.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Sweet, for Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of melted butter -made with milk, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded -sugar, flavouring of grated lemon-rind or -cinnamon. <i>Mode.</i>—Make ½ pint of melted -butter, omitting any salt; stir in the -sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, -nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon, and -serve. Previously to making the melted -butter, the milk can be flavoured with -bitter almonds, by infusing about half a -dozen of them in it for about ½ hour; -the milk should then be strained before -it is added to the other ingredients. -This simple sauce may be served for -children with rice, batter, or bread pudding. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 15 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 or 7 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Sweet, for Venison.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A small jar of red-currant -jelly, 1 glass of port wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the above ingredients into a stewpan, -set them over the fire, and, when -melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It -should not be allowed to boil. <i>Time.</i>—5 -minutes to melt the jelly. <i>Average cost</i>, -for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i></p> - - -<h3>SAUCE, Tournée.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of white stock, -thickening of flour and butter, or white -roux, a faggot of savoury herbs, including -parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green -onions. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the stock into a -stewpan with the herbs, onions, and -mushrooms, and let it simmer very -gently for about ½ hour; stir in sufficient -thickening to make it of a proper consistency; -let it boil for a few minutes, -then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. -This sauce, with the addition of a little -cream, is now frequently called velouté. -<i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, for this -quantity, 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If poultry trimmings are at -hand, the stock should be made of these. -The above sauce should not be made -too thick, as it does not then admit of -the fat being nicely removed.</p> - - -<h3>SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 glass of port wine, -1 tablespoonful of Leamington sauce, -1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, -1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 slice of -lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, -1 blade of mace, cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -all the ingredients into a stewpan, -set it over the fire, and let it simmer for -about 5 minutes; then strain and serve -the sauce in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes, -<i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, 8<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGE-MEAT, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 1 lb. of lean -pork, add ¾ lb. of fat bacon, ½ oz. of salt, -1 saltspoonful of pepper, ¼ teaspoonful of -grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced -parsley. <i>Mode.</i>—Remove from the pork -all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop it -finely with the bacon; add the remaining -ingredients, and carefully mix altogether. -Pound it well in a mortar, make it into -convenient-sized cakes, flour these, and -fry them a nice brown for about 10 -minutes. This is a very simple method -of making sausage-meat, and on trial -will prove very good, its great recommendation -being, that it is so easily -made. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to March.</p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING -FOR TURKEYS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. -of fat pork, both weighed after being -chopped (beef-suet may be substituted -for the latter), 2 oz. of bread-crumbs, -1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 -blade of pounded mace, salt and pepper -to taste, 1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the meat -and fat very finely, mix with them the -other ingredients, taking care that the -whole is thoroughly incorporated. Moisten -with the egg, and the stuffing will be -ready for use. Equal quantities of this -stuffing and forcemeat will be found to -answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, -&c., in the latter, impart a very -delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. -As preparations, however, like stuffings -and forcemeats, are matters to be decided<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span> -by individual palates, they must be -left, to a great extent, to the discrimination -of the cook, who should study her -employer’s taste in this as in every other -respect. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a small turkey.</p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGE OR MEAT ROLLS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of puff-paste, sausage-meat, -the yolk of 1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -1 lb. of puff-paste; roll it out -to the thickness of about ½ inch, or -rather less, and divide it into 8, 10, -or 12 squares, according to the size -the rolls are intended to be. Place -some sausage-meat on one-half of each -square, wet the edges of the paste, -and fold it over the meat; slightly -press the edges together, and trim -them neatly with a knife. Brush the -rolls over with the yolk of an egg, and -bake them in a well-heated oven for -about ½ hour, or longer should they be -very large. The remains of cold chicken -and ham, minced and seasoned, as also -cold veal or beef, make very good -rolls. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour, or longer if the -rolls are large. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient.</i>—1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 -rolls. <i>Seasonable</i>, with sausage-meat, -from September to March or April.</p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGES, Beef.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of suet -allow 2 lbs. of lean beef, seasoning to -taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices. -<i>Mode.</i>—Clear the suet from skin, and -chop that and the beef as finely as -possible; season with pepper, salt, and -spices, and mix the whole well together. -Make it into flat cakes, and -fry of a nice brown. Many persons -pound the meat in a mortar after it is -chopped; but this is not necessary -when the meat is minced finely. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGES, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sausages: a small piece -of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Prick the sausages -with a fork (this prevents them from -bursting), and put them into a frying-pan -with a small piece of butter. Keep -moving the pan about, and turn the -sausages 3 or 4 times. In from 10 -to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently -cooked, unless they are <i>very -large</i>, when a little more time should -be allowed for them. Dish them with -or without a piece of toast under them, -and serve very hot. In some counties, -sausages are boiled and served on toast. -They should be plunged into boiling -water, and simmered for about 10 or -12 minutes. <i>Time.</i>—10 to 12 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Good -from September to March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 228px;"> -<img src="images/illus-309.jpg" width="228" height="67" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FRIED SAUSAGES.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Sometimes, in close warm -weather, sausages very soon turn sour; -to prevent this, put them in the oven -for a few minutes with a small piece -of butter to keep them moist. When -wanted for table, they will not require -so long frying as uncooked sausages.</p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGES, Pork (Author’s Oxford -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of pork, fat and -lean, without skin or gristle; 1 lb. of lean -veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, ½ lb. of bread-crumbs, -the rind of ½ lemon, 1 small -nutmeg, 6 sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful -of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, ½ teaspoonful -of savory, ½ teaspoonful of -marjoram. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the pork, -veal, and suet finely together, add the -bread-crumbs, lemon-peel (which should -be well minced), and a small nutmeg -grated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves -very finely; add these with the -remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, -and when thoroughly mixed, -either put the meat into skins, or, when -wanted for table, form it into little -cakes, which should be floured and -fried. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for about 30 moderate-sized -sausages. <i>Seasonable</i> from October -to March.</p> - - -<h3>SAUSAGES, Veal.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal quantities of fat -bacon and lean veal; to every lb. of -meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced-sage, -salt and pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop -the meat and bacon finely, and -to every lb. allow the above proportion -of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning -of pepper and salt, mix the -whole well together, make it into flat -cakes, and fry a nice brown. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SAVOY CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The weight of 4 eggs in -pounded loaf sugar, the weight of 7 in -flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence -of almonds, or orange-flower -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Break the 7 eggs, putting -the yolks into one basin and the -whites into another. Whisk the former, -and mix with them the sugar, the grated -lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to -taste; heat them well together, and add -the whites of the eggs, whisked to a -froth. Put in the flour by degrees, -continuing to beat the mixture for ¼ -hour, butter a mould, pour in the cake, -and bake it from 1¼ to 1½ hour. This is -a very nice cake for desert, and may be -iced for a supper table, or cut into slices -and spread with jam, which converts -it into sandwiches. <i>Time.</i>—1¼ to 1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 cake. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SEA-BREAM, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 bream. Seasoning to -taste of salt, pepper, and cayenne; ¼ lb. -of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Well wash the -bream, but do not remove the scales, -and wipe away all moisture with a nice -dry cloth. Season it inside and out -with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay -it in a baking-dish. Place the butter, -in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake -for rather more than ½ an hour. To -stuff this fish before baking, will be -found a great improvement. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than ½ an hour. <i>Seasonable</i> -in summer.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This fish may be broiled over -a nice clear fire, and served with a -good brown gravy or white sauce, or it -may be stewed in wine.</p> - - -<h3>SEA-KALE, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow one heaped tablespoonful of salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Well wash the kale, cut away -any worm-eaten pieces, and tie it into -small bunches; put it into <i>boiling</i> -water, salted in the above proportion, -and let it boil -quickly until tender. -Take it out, -drain, untie the -bunches, and -serve with plain -melted butter or -white sauce, a little of which may be -poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also -be parboiled and stewed in good brown -gravy: it will then take about ½ hour -altogether. <i>Time.</i>—15 minutes; when -liked very thoroughly done, allow an -extra 5 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, in full -season, 9<i>d.</i> per basket. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -12 heads for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from February to June.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 201px;"> -<img src="images/illus-310.jpg" width="201" height="55" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED SEA-KALE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>SEED BISCUITS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of -sifted sugar, ¼ lb. of butter, ½ oz. of -caraway seeds, 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat -the butter to a cream; stir in the flour, -sugar, and caraway seeds; and when -these ingredients are well mixed, add -the eggs, which should be well whisked. -Roll out the paste, with a round cutter -shape out the biscuits, and bake them in -a moderate oven from 10 to 15 minutes. -The tops of the biscuits may be brushed -over with a little milk or the white of an -egg, and then a little sugar strewn over. -<i>Time.</i>—10 or 15 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 3 dozen biscuits. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SEED-CAKE, Common.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ quartern of dough, -¼ lb. of good dripping, 6 oz. of moist -sugar, ½ oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg. -<i>Mode.</i>—If the dough is sent in from the -bakers, put it in a basin covered with a -cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. -Then with a wooden spoon beat the -dripping to a liquid; add it, with the -other ingredients, to the dough, and -beat it until everything is very thoroughly -mixed. Put it into a buttered -tin, and bake the cake for rather more -than 2 hours. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SEED-CAKE, a Very Good.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, -¾ lb. of sifted sugar, pounded mace and -grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, -¾ oz. of caraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of -brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the butter to a -cream; dredge in the flour; add the -sugar, mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, -and mix these ingredients well together. -Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, -and beat the cake again for 10 minutes. -Put it into a tin lined with buttered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span> -paper, and bake it from 1½ to 2 hours. -This cake would be equally nice made -with currants, and omitting the caraway -seeds. <i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SEMOLINA PUDDING, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of semolina, 1½ pint -of milk, ¼ lb. of sugar, 12 bitter almonds, -3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Flavour -the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing -them in it by the side of the fire -for about ½ hour; then strain it, and mix -with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. -Stir these ingredients over the fire for a -few minutes; then take them off, and -gradually mix in the eggs, which should -be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line -the edges with puff-paste, put in the -pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven -from 40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard -sauce or stewed fruit, a little of -which may be poured over the pudding. -<i>Time.</i>—40 to 50 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SEMOLINA SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts -of boiling stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Drop the semolina -into the boiling stock, and keep -stirring, to prevent its burning. Simmer -gently for half an hour, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ -an hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per quart, -or 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year.</p> - - -<h3>SEPTEMBER—BILLS OF -FARE.</h3> - - -<p>Dinner for 18 Persons.</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>First Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/menu13.jpg" width="284" height="233" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Julienne Soup, -removed by -Brill & Shrimp Sauce. - -Red Mullet & Italian Sauce. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Fried Eels. - -Giblet Soup, -removed by -Salmon and Lobster -Sauce. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Entrées.</i></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;"> -<img src="images/menu13b.jpg" width="286" height="190" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Lamb Cutlets and -French Beans. - -Fillets of Chicken -and Truffles. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Oysters au Gratin. - -Sweetbreads and -Tomato Sauce. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/menu13c.jpg" width="285" height="250" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Saddle of Mutton. - -Veal-and-Ham Pie. - -Chickens à la Béchamel. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Braised Goose. - -Broiled Ham, -garnished with -Cauliflowers. - -Fillet of Veal. -</p> - - -<div class="center"><i>Third Course.</i></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"> -<img src="images/menu13d.jpg" width="283" height="292" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<div class="center">Dessert and Ices.</div> - -<p class="courses"> -Custards. - -Partridges, -removed by -Plum-pudding. - -Apple Tart. - -Compôte of Greengages. - -Noyeau Jelly. - -Vase of -Flowers. - -Lemon Cream. - -Pastry Sandwiches. - -Plum Tart. - -Grouse & Bread Sauce, -removed by -Nesselrode Pudding. - -Custards. -</p> - - - -<h3>Dinner for 12 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Mock-turtle soup; soup -à la Jardinière; salmon and lobster -sauce; fried whitings; stewed eels. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Veal cutlets; scalloped oysters; -curried fowl; grilled mushrooms. <i>Second -Course.</i>—Haunch of mutton; boiled -calf’s head à la Béchamel; braised ham; -roast fowls aux Cressons. <i>Third Course.</i>—Leveret; -grouse; cabinet pudding, -iced pudding; compôte of plums; damson<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span> -tart; cream; fruit jelly; prawns; -lobster salad. Dessert and ices.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 8 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Flemish soup; turbot, -garnished with fried smelts; red mullet -and Italian sauce. <i>Entrées.</i>—Tendrons -de veau and truffles; lamb cutlets and -sauce piquante. <i>Second Course.</i>—Loin -of veal à la Béchamel; roast haunch of -venison; braised ham; grouse pie; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast hare; -plum tart; whipped cream; punch jelly; -compôte of damsons; marrow pudding; -dessert.</p> - - -<h3>Dinner for 6 persons.</h3> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Game soup; crimped -skate; slices of salmon à la genévése. -<i>Entrées.</i>—-Fricasseed sweetbreads; savoury -rissoles. <i>Second Course.</i>—Sirloin -of beef and horseradish sauce; boiled leg -of mutton and caper sauce; vegetables. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast partridges; charlotte -Russe; apricots and rice; fruit -jelly; cabinet pudding; dessert.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>First Course.</i>—Thick gravy soup; -fillets of turbot à la crême; stewed eels. -<i>Entrées.</i>—Vol-au-vent of lobster; salmi -of grouse. <i>Second Course.</i>—Haunch of -venison; rump of beef à la Jardinière; -hare, boned and larded, with mushrooms. -<i>Third Course.</i>—Roast grouse; apricot -blancmange; compôte of peaches; plum-tart; -custards; plum-pudding; dessert.</p> - - -<h3>SEPTEMBER, Plain Family Dinners -for.</h3> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast -ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish -sauce, French beans, and potatoes. -3. Greengage pudding, vanilla cream.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Crimped skate and crab -sauce. 2. Cold beef and salad, small -veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow -and white sauce.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Fried soles, melted -butter. 2. Bowled fowls, parsley-and-butter; -bacon-cheek, garnished with -French beans; beef rissoles, made from -remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and -cream.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Boiled round of beef, -carrots, turnips, and suet dumplings; -marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons -and rice.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Vegetable soup, made -from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. -Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef -and salad. 3. Apple pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, -made from cold beef; veal -cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Irish stew, rump-steaks -and oyster-sauce. 2. Somersetshire -dumplings.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Sunday.</i>—1. Fried filleted soles and -anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg of mutton, -brown onion sauce, French beans, and -potatoes; half calf’s head, tongue, and -brains. 3. Plum-tart; custards, in glasses.</p> - -<p><i>Monday.</i>—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. -2. Calf’s head à la maître d’hôtel, from -remains of cold head; boiled brisket of -beef and vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit -and baked rice pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Tuesday.</i>—1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; -boiled bacon, garnished with -tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from -remains of mutton of Sunday. 2. Baked -plum-pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Wednesday.</i>—1. Boiled knuckle of veal -and rice, turnips, potatoes; small ham, -garnished with French beans. 2. Baked -apple pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Thursday.</i>—1. Brill and shrimp sauce. -2. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant -jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. -3. Scalloped oysters, instead -of pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Friday.</i>—1. Small roast loin of -mutton; the remains of hare, jugged; -vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. -Damson pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday.</i>—1. Rump-steaks, broiled, -and oyster-sauce, mashed potatoes; -veal-and-ham pie,—the ham may be cut -from that boiled on Wednesday, if not -all eaten cold for breakfast. 2. Lemon -pudding.</p> - - -<h3>SEPTEMBER, Things in Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Fish.</i>—Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, -lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, -skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait.</p> - -<p><i>Meat.</i>—Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.</p> - -<p><i>Poultry.</i>—Chickens, ducks, fowls, -geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, -teal, turkeys.</p> - -<p><i>Game.</i>—Black-cock, buck venison, -grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants.</p> - -<p><i>Vegetables.</i>—Artichokes, asparagus, -beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots, celery, -lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, -potatoes, salads, sea-kale, sprouts, tomatoes, -turnips, vegetable marrows,—various -herbs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Fruit.</i>—Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, -grapes, melons, morella cherries, -mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, -plums, quinces, walnuts.</p> - - -<h3>SHAD, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 shad, oil, pepper, and -salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale, empty and wash -the fish carefully, and make two or three -incisions across the back. Season it with -pepper and salt, and let it remain in oil -for ½ hour. Broil it on both sides over a -clear fire, and serve with caper sauce. -This fish is much esteemed by the French, -and by them is considered excellent. -<i>Time.</i>—Nearly 1 hour. <i>Average cost.</i>—Seldom -bought. <i>Seasonable</i> from April -to June.</p> - - -<h3>SHEEP’S BRAINS, en Matelote -(an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 sheep’s brains, vinegar, -salt, a few slices of bacon, 1 small onion, -2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient -stock or weak broth to cover the -brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, -matelote sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Detach the -brains from the head without breaking -them, and put them into a pan of warm -water; remove the skin, and let them -remain for two hours. Have ready a -saucepan of boiling water, add a little -vinegar and salt, and put in the brains. -When they are quite firm, take them -out and put them into very cold water. -Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in a stewpan, -put in the brains, the onion stuck with -2 cloves, the parsley, and a good seasoning -of pepper and salt; cover with -stock, or weak broth, and boil them -gently for about 25 minutes. Have -ready some croûtons; arrange these in -the dish alternately with the brains, -and cover with a matelote sauce, to -which has been added the above proportion -of lemon-juice. <i>Time.</i>—25 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SHEEP’S FEET or TROTTERS -(Soyer’s Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 feet, ¼ lb. of beef or -mutton suet, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 2 bay-leaves, -2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, -¼ oz. of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of -flour, 2½ quarts of water, ¼ lb. of fresh -butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful -of flour, ¼ teaspoonful of pepper, a -little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 -lemon, 1 gill of milk, the yolks of 2 -eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the feet cleaned, -and the long bone extracted from them. -Put the suet into a stewpan, with the -onions and carrot sliced, the bay-leaves, -thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these -simmer for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoonfuls -of flour and the water, and -keep stirring till it boils; then put in -the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours, -or until perfectly tender, and take them -and lay them on a sieve. Mix together, -on a plate, with the back of a spoon, -butter, salt, flour (1 teaspoonful), pepper, -nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, -and put the feet, with a gill of milk, -into a stewpan. When very hot, add -the butter, &c., and stir continually till -melted. Now mix the yolks of 2 eggs -with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk; stir this -to the other ingredients, keep moving -the pan over the fire continually for a -minute or two, but do not allow it to -boil after the eggs are added. Serve in -a very hot dish, and garnish with croûtons, -or sippets of toasted bread. <i>Time.</i>—3 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>SHEEP’S HEAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 sheep’s head, sufficient -water to cover it, 3 carrots, 3 -turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a -small bunch of parsley, 1 teaspoonful of -pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, ¼ lb. of -Scotch oatmeal. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean the head -well, and let it soak in warm water for -2 hours, to get rid of the blood; put it -into a saucepan, with sufficient cold -water to cover it, and when it boils, -add the vegetables, peeled and sliced, -and the remaining ingredients; before -adding the oatmeal, mix it to a smooth -batter with a little of the liquor. Keep -stirring till it boils up; then shut the -saucepan closely, and let it stew gently -for 1½ or 2 hours. It may be thickened -with rice or barley, but oatmeal is preferable. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ to 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SHORTBREAD, Scotch.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of -butter, ¼ lb. of pounded loaf sugar, ½ oz. -of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, -a few strips of candied orange-peel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span> -<i>Mode.</i>—Beat the butter to a cream, -gradually dredge in the flour, and add -the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet -almonds, which should be blanched and -cut into small pieces. Work the paste -until it is quite smooth, and divide it -into six pieces. Put each cake on a -separate piece of paper, roll the paste -out square to the thickness of about an -inch, and pinch it upon all sides. Prick -it well, and ornament with one or two -strips of candied orange-peel. Put the -cakes into a good oven, and bake them -from 25 to 30 minutes. <i>Time.</i>—25 to 30 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 6 cakes. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 265px;"> -<img src="images/illus-314.jpg" width="265" height="72" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SHORTBREAD.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Where the flavour of the caraway -seeds is disliked, omit them, and -add rather a larger proportion of candied -peel.</p> - - -<h3>SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various -Kinds of Fish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1/3 pint of melted butter, -¼ pint of picked shrimps, cayenne to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Make the melted butter -very smoothly, shell the shrimps (sufficient -to make ¼ pint when picked), and -put them into the butter; season with -cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, -but do not allow it to boil. When liked, -a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be -added. <i>Time.</i>—1 minute to simmer. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or 4 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS, to Boil.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Prawns should be -very red, and have no spawn under the -tail; much depends on their freshness -and the way in which they are cooked. -Throw them into boiling water, salted as -above, and keep them boiling for about -7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done -in the same way; but less time must be -allowed. It may easily be known when -they are done by their changing colour. -Care should be taken that they are not -over-boiled, as they then become tasteless -and indigestible. <i>Time.</i>—Prawns, -about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, prawns, 2<i>s.</i> per -lb.; shrimps, 6<i>d.</i> per pint. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year.</p> - - -<h3>SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS, Buttered.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of picked prawns -or shrimps, ¾ pint of stock, thickening -of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and -nutmeg to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the -prawns or shrimps, and put them in a -stewpan with the stock; add a thickening -of butter and flour; season, and -simmer gently for 3 minutes. Serve on -a dish garnished with fried bread or -toasted sippets. Cream sauce may be -substituted for the gravy. <i>Time.</i>—3 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SHRIMPS, Potted.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of shelled shrimps, -¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 blade of pounded -mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a -little nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Have ready a -pint of picked shrimps, and put them, -with the other ingredients, into a stewpan; -let them heat gradually in the -butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into -small pots, and when cold, cover with -melted butter, and carefully exclude the -air. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to soak in the butter. -<i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i></p> - - -<h3>SKATE, to choose.</h3> - -<p>This fish should be chosen for its firmness, -breadth, and thickness, and should -have a creamy appearance. When -crimped, it should not be kept longer -than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped -fish soon become sour. Thornback is -often substituted for skate, but is very -inferior in quality to the true skate.</p> - - -<h3>SKATE, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse and skin -the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with -sufficient water to cover it, salted in the -above proportion. Let it simmer very -gently till done; then dish it on a hot -napkin, and serve with shrimp, lobster, -or caper sauce. <i>Time.</i>—According to -size, from ½ to 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -April.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SKATE, Crimped.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean, skin, and cut -the fish into slices, which roll and tie -round with string. Have ready some -water highly salted, put in the fish, and -boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the -string, dish on a hot napkin, and serve -with the same sauces as above. Skate -should never be eaten out of season, as -it is liable to produce diarrhœa and other -diseases. It may be dished without a -napkin, and the sauce poured over. -<i>Time.</i>—About 20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -4<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from August to -April.</p> - - -<h3>SKATE, With Caper Sauce (à la -Française).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 slices of skate, ½ -pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of salt, ½ teaspoonful -of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small -bunch of parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 -sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover -the fish. <i>Mode.</i>—Put in a fish-kettle all -the above ingredients, and simmer the -skate in them till tender. When it is -done, skin it neatly, and pour over it -some of the liquor in which it has been -boiling. Drain it, put it on a hot dish, -pour over it caper sauce, and send -some of the latter to table in a tureen. -<i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Seasonable</i> from August to April.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Skate may also be served with -onion sauce, or parsley and butter.</p> - - -<h3>SKATE, Small, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Skate, sufficient vinegar -to cover them, salt and pepper to taste, -1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, -the juice of ½ lemon, hot dripping. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse the skate, lay them in a -dish, with sufficient vinegar to cover -them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, -and lemon-juice, and let the fish -remain in this pickle for ½ hour. Then -drain them well, flour them, and fry of -a nice brown, in hot dripping. They -may be served either with or without -sauce. Skate is not good if dressed too -fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, -therefore, be kept for a day, but not -long enough to produce a disagreeable -smell. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to April.</p> - - -<h3>SMELTS.</h3> - -<p>When good, this fish is of a fine -silvery appearance, and when alive, -their backs are of a dark brown shade, -which, after death, fades to a light fawn. -They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, -resembling that of a cucumber.</p> - - -<h3>SMELTS, to Bake.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 smelts, bread-crumbs, -¼ lb. of fresh butter, 2 blades of pounded -mace; salt and cayenne to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash, -and dry the fish thoroughly in -a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a -flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine -bread-crumbs, and place little pieces of -butter all over them. Season and bake -for 15 minutes. Just before serving, -add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish -with fried parsley and cut lemon. -<i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> per -dozen. <i>Seasonable</i> from October to May. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SMELTS, to Fry.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Egg and bread-crumbs, -a little flour; boiling lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Smelts -should be very fresh, and not -washed more than is necessary to clean -them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly -flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle -over with very fine bread-crumbs, and -put them into boiling lard. Fry of a -nice pale brown, and be careful not to -take off the light roughness of the -crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. -Dry them before the fire on a drainer, -and serve with plain melted butter. -This fish is often used as a garnishing. -<i>Time.</i>—5 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> per -dozen. <i>Seasonable</i> from October to May.</p> - - -<h3>SNIPES, to Dress.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 195px;"> -<img src="images/illus-315.jpg" width="195" height="81" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST SNIPE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Snipes, butter, flour, -toast. <i>Mode.</i>—These, like woodcocks, -should be dressed without being drawn. -Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss -them with the head under the wing, -having previously skinned that and the -neck. Twist the legs at the first joint, -press the feet -upon the thighs, -and pass a skewer -through these -and the body. -Place four on a -skewer, tie them on to the jack or spit, -and roast before a clear fire for about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span> -¼ hour. Put some pieces of buttered -toast into the dripping-pan to catch the -trails; flour and froth the birds nicely, -dish the pieces of toast with the snipes -on them, and pour round, but not over -them, a little good brown gravy. They -should be sent to table very hot and -expeditiously, or they will not be worth -eating. <i>Time.</i>—About ¼ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> the brace. <i>Sufficient.</i>—4 -for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from November -to February.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Ortolans are trussed and dressed -in the same manner.</p> - - -<h3>SNIPES, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>One of these small but delicious birds -may be given, whole, to a gentleman; -but, in helping a lady, -it will be better to cut -them quite through the -centre, from 1 to 2, -completely dividing -them into equal and like portions, and -put only one half on the plate.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 138px;"> -<img src="images/illus-316.jpg" width="138" height="66" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SNIPE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>SNOW-CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of <i>tous-les-mois</i>, ¼ lb. -of white pounded sugar, ¼ lb. of fresh -or washed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of -1 lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the butter to a -cream; then add the egg, previously well -beaten, and then the other ingredients; -if the mixture is not light, add another -egg, and beat for ¼ hour, until it turns -white and light. Line a flat tin, with -raised edges, with a sheet of buttered -paper; pour in the cake, and put it into -the oven. It must be rather slow, and -the cake not allowed to brown at all. If -the oven is properly heated, 1 to 1¼ hour -will be found long enough to bake it. Let -it cool a few minutes, then with a clean -sharp knife cut it into small square pieces, -which should be gently removed to a large -flat dish to cool before putting away. -This will keep for several weeks. <i>Time.</i>—1 -to 1¼ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SNOW-CAKE (a genuine Scotch -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of arrowroot, ½ lb. -of pounded white sugar, ½ lb. of butter, -the whites of 6 eggs; flavouring to taste, -of essence of almonds, or vanilla, or -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the butter to a -cream; stir in the sugar and arrowroot -gradually, at the same time beating the -mixture. Whisk the whites of the eggs -to a stiff froth, add them to the other ingredients, -and beat well for 20 minutes. -Put in whichever of the above flavourings -may be preferred; pour the cake -into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it -in a moderate oven from 1 to 1½ hour. -<i>Time.</i>—1 to 1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, with -the best Bermuda arrowroot, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; -with St. Vincent ditto, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to make a moderate-sized cake. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SODA-BISCUITS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -pounded loaf sugar, ¼ lb. of fresh butter, -2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate -of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the flour (which -should be perfectly dry) into a basin; -rub in the butter, add the sugar, and -mix these ingredients well together. -Whisk the eggs, stir them into the -mixture, and beat it well, until everything -is well incorporated. Quickly stir -in the soda, roll the paste out until it is -about ½ inch thick, cut it into small -round cakes with a tin cutter, and bake -them from 12 to 18 minutes in rather a -brisk oven. After the soda is added, -great expedition is necessary in rolling -and cutting out the paste, and in putting -the biscuits <i>immediately</i> into the oven, -or they will be heavy. <i>Time.</i>—12 to 18 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -make about 3 dozen cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SODA-BREAD.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every 2 lbs. of flour -allow 1 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful -of salt, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate -of soda, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of -cold milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the tartaric acid -and salt be reduced to the finest possible -powder; then mix them well with the -flour. Dissolve the soda in the milk, -and pour it several times from one basin -to another, before adding it to the flour. -Work the whole quickly into a light -dough, divide it into 2 loaves, and put -them into a well-heated oven immediately, -and bake for an hour. Sour -milk or buttermilk may be used, but -then a little less acid will be needed. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour.</p> - - -<h3>SODA-CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of butter, 1 lb. of -flour, ½ lb. of currants, ½ lb. of moist<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[317]</a></span> -sugar, 1 teacupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful -of carbonate of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub -the butter into the flour, add the -currants and sugar, and mix these ingredients -well together. Whisk the eggs -well, stir them to the flour, &c., with the -milk, in which the soda should be previously -dissolved, and beat the whole up -together with a wooden spoon or beater. -Divide the dough into two pieces, put -them into buttered moulds or cake-tins, -and bake in a moderate oven for nearly -an hour. The mixture must be extremely -well beaten up, and not allowed to stand -after the soda is added to it, but must be -placed in the oven immediately. Great -care must also be taken that the cakes -are quite done through, which may be -ascertained by thrusting a knife into the -middle of them: if the blade looks bright -when withdrawn, they are done. If the -tops acquire too much colour before the -inside is sufficiently baked, cover them -over with a piece of clean white paper, -to prevent them from burning. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -to make 2 small cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLE OR COD PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold boiled -sole or cod, seasoning to taste of pepper, -salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters -to each lb. of fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of -white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened -with flour, puff paste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clear -the fish from the bones, lay it in a -pie-dish, and between each layer put a -few oysters and a little seasoning; add -the stock, and, when liked, a small quantity -of butter; cover with puff paste, and -bake for ½ hour. Boil the cream with -sufficient flour to thicken it; pour in the -pie, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i> for this quantity, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, to Choose.</h3> - -<p>This fish should be both thick and firm. -If the skin is difficult to be taken off, -and the flesh looks grey, it is good.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 soles, ¼ lb. of butter, -egg, and bread-crumbs, minced parsley, -1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne -and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean, skin, -and well wash the fish, and dry them -thoroughly in a cloth. Brush them -over with egg, sprinkle with bread-crumbs -mixed with a little minced parsley, -lay them in a large flat baking-dish, -white side uppermost; or if it will not -hold the two soles, they may each be -laid on a dish by itself; but they must -not be put one on the top of the other. -Melt the butter, and pour it over the -whole, and bake for 20 minutes. Take a -portion of the gravy that flows from the -fish, add the wine, lemon-juice, and -seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it -<i>under</i> the fish, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per -pair. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse and wash -the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do -not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with -sufficient cold water to cover it, salted -in the above proportion. Let it gradually -come to a boil, and keep it simmering -for a few minutes, according to -the size of the fish. Dish it on a hot -napkin after well draining it, and garnish -with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or -lobster sauce, and plain melted butter, -are usually sent to table with this dish. -<i>Time.</i>—After the water boils, 7 minutes -for a middling-sized sole. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per pair. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 middling-sized -sole for two persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Boiled or Fried, to Help.</h3> - -<p>The usual way of helping this fish is -to cut it right through, bone and all, -distributing it in nice and not too large -pieces. A moderately-sized sole will be -sufficient for three slices; namely, the -head, middle, and tail. The guests -should be asked which of these they -prefer. A small one will only give two -slices. If the sole is very large, the -upper side may be raised from the bone, -and then divided into pieces; and the -under side afterwards served in the same -way.</p> - -<p>In helping Filleted Soles, one fillet is -given to each person.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Filleted, à l’Italienne.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 soles; salt, pepper, -and grated nutmeg to taste; egg and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[318]</a></span> -bread-crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 -lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin, and carefully wash -the soles, separate the meat from the -bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. -Brush them over with white of egg, -sprinkle with bread-crumbs and seasoning, -and put them in a baking-dish. -Place small pieces of butter over the -whole, and bake for ½ hour. When they -are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a -lemon over them, and serve on a dish, -with Italian sauce (<i>see</i> <a href="#SAUCES">Sauces</a>) poured -over. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -from 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per pair. <i>Sufficient</i> for -4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at anytime.</p> - -<p>Whiting may be dressed in the same -manner, and will be found very delicious.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Fricasseed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 middling-sized soles, -1 small one, ½ teaspoonful of chopped -lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, a little grated bread; salt, pepper, -and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. -butter, ½ pint of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls -of port wine, cayenne and -lemon-juice to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Fry the -soles of a nice brown, and drain them -well from fat. Take all the meat from -the small sole, chop it fine, and mix -with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, -and seasoning; work altogether, with -the yolk of an egg and the butter; make -this into small balls, and fry them. -Thicken the gravy with a dessertspoonful -of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, -and lemon-juice; lay in the 2 soles and -balls; let them simmer gently for 5 -minutes; serve hot, and garnish with -cut lemon. <i>Time.</i>—10 minutes to fry the -soles. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, 3<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Fried Filleted.</h3> - -<p>Soles for filleting should be large, as -the flesh can be more easily separated -from the bones, and there is less waste. -Skin and wash the fish, and raise the -meat carefully from the bones, and divide -it into nice handsome pieces. The -more usual way is to roll the fillets, after -dividing each one in two pieces, and -either bind them round with twine, or -run a small skewer through them. Brush -over with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs; -fry them as directed in the -foregoing recipe, and garnish with fried -parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty -dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant -mode of dressing soles, as they look -much better than when fried whole. Instead -of rolling the fillets, they may be -cut into square pieces, and arranged in -the shape of a pyramid on the dish. -<i>Time.</i>—About 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -from 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per pair. <i>Sufficient</i>, 2 -large soles for 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 middling-sized soles, -hot lard or clarified dripping, egg, and -bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Skin and carefully -wash the soles, and cut off the fins, -wipe them very dry, and let them remain -in the cloth until it is time to dress them. -Have ready some fine bread-crumbs and -beaten egg; dredge the soles with a little -flour, brush them over with egg, and -cover with bread-crumbs. Put them in -a deep pan, with plenty of clarified dripping -or lard (when the expense is not objected -to, oil is still better) heated, so -that it may neither scorch the fish nor -make them sodden. When they are sufficiently -cooked on one side, turn them -carefully, and brown them on the other: -they may be considered ready when a -thick smoke rises. Lift them out carefully, -and lay them before the fire on a -reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb -the fat. Particular attention should be -paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable -than greasy fish: this may be always -avoided by dressing them in good time, -and allowing a few minutes for them to -get thoroughly crisp, and free from greasy -moisture. Dish them on a hot napkin, -garnish with cut lemon and fried parsley, -and send them to table with shrimp sauce -and plain melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes for large soles; less time for -small ones. <i>Average cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> -per pair. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, with Mushrooms.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of milk, 1 pint of -water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. salt, a little -lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse the soles, but do not -skin them, and lay them in a fish-kettle, -with the milk, water, butter, salt, and -lemon-juice. Bring them gradually to -boil, and let them simmer very gently<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[319]</a></span> -till done, which will be in about 7 minutes. -Take them up, drain them well on a cloth, -put them on a hot dish, and pour over -them a good mushroom sauce. (<i>See</i> -<a href="#SAUCES">Sauces</a>.) <i>Time.</i>—After the water boils, -7 minutes. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SOLES, with Cream Sauce.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 soles; salt, cayenne, -and pounded mace to taste; the juice of -½ lemon, salt and water, ½ pint of cream. -<i>Mode.</i>—Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, -and divide each fillet in 2 pieces; lay -them in cold salt and water, which bring -gradually to a boil. When the water -boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately -clean stewpan, and cover with the -cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very -gently for ten minutes, and, just before -serving, put in the lemon-juice. The -fillets may be rolled, and secured by -means of a skewer; but this is not so -economical a way of dressing them, as -double the quantity of cream is required. -<i>Time.</i>—10 minutes in the cream. <i>Average -cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per pair. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p>This will be found a most delicate -and delicious dish.</p> - - -<h3>SOUFFLÉ, to make.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 heaped tablespoonfuls -of potato-flour, rice-flour, arrowroot, or -tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of -butter the size of a walnut, sifted sugar -to taste, ¼ saltspoonful of salt flavouring. -<i>Mode.</i>—Mix the potato-flour, or whichever -one of the above ingredients is used, -with a little of the milk; put it into a -saucepan, with the remainder of the -milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient -pounded sugar to sweeten the whole -nicely. Stir these ingredients over the -fire until the mixture thickens; then -take it off the fire, and let it cool a little. -Separate the whites from the yolks of -the eggs, beat the -latter, and stir -them into the -soufflé batter. Now -whisk the whites of -the eggs to the -firmest possible -froth, for on this depends the excellence -of the dish; stir them to the other ingredients, -and add a few drops of essence -of any flavouring that may be preferred; -such as vanilla, lemon, orange, ginger, -&c. &c. Pour the batter into a soufflé-dish, -put it immediately into the oven, -and bake for about ½ hour; then take -it out, put the dish into another more -ornamental one, such as is made for the -purpose; hold a salamander or hot -shovel over the soufflé, strew it with -sifted sugar, and send it instantly to -table. The secret of making a soufflé -well, is to have the eggs well whisked, -but particularly the whites, the oven not -too hot, and to send it to table the -moment it comes from the oven. If the -soufflé be ever so well made, and it is -allowed to stand before being sent to -table, its appearance and goodness will -be entirely spoiled. Soufflés may be flavoured -in various ways, but must be -named accordingly. Vanilla is one of the -most delicate and recherché flavourings -that can be used for this very fashionable -dish. <i>Time.</i>—About ½ hour in the oven; -2 or 3 minutes to hold the salamander -over. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 -or 4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 177px;"> -<img src="images/illus-319.jpg" width="177" height="90" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SOUFFLÉ-PAN.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>SOUPS, General Directions for -Making.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lean, juicy Beef, Mutton, and -Veal</span> form the basis of all good soups; -therefore it is advisable to procure those -pieces which afford the richest succulence, -and such as are fresh-killed. -Stale meat renders soups bad, and fat is -not well adapted for making them. The -principal art in composing good rich -soup is so to proportion the several -ingredients that the flavour of one shall -not predominate over another, and that -all the articles of which it is composed -shall form an agreeable whole. Care -must be taken that the roots and herbs -are perfectly well cleaned, and that the -water is proportioned to the quantity of -meat and other ingredients, allowing a -quart of water to a pound of meat for -soups, and half that quantity for gravies. -In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing -or simmering is absolutely necessary. -It may be remarked, moreover, that a -really good soup can never be made but -in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps, -greater wholesomeness is obtained by an -occasional exposure to the air. Soups -will, in general, take from four to six -hours doing, and <i>are much better prepared -the day before they are wanted</i>. When -the soup is cold, the fat may be easily<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[320]</a></span> -and completely removed; and in pouring -it off, care must be taken not to disturb -the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, -which are so fine that they will escape -through a sieve. A very fine hair-sieve -or cloth is the best strainer; and if the -soup is strained while it is hot, let the -tamis or cloth be previously soaked in -cold water. Clear soups must be perfectly -transparent, and thickened soups -about the consistency of cream. To -obtain a really clear and transparent -soup, it is requisite to continue skimming -the liquor until there is not a particle of -scum remaining, this being commenced -immediately after the water is added to -the meat. To thicken and give body to -soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, -arrowroot, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour -and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal are -used. A piece of boiled beef pounded -to a pulp, with a bit of butter and flour, -and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually -incorporated with the soup, will be found -an excellent addition. When soups and -gravies are kept from day to day in hot -weather, they should be warmed up -every day, put into fresh-scalded pans -or tureens, and placed in a cool larder. -In temperate weather, every other day -may be sufficient. Stock made from -meat only keeps good longer than that -boiled with vegetables, the latter being -liable to turn the mixture sour, particularly -in very warm weather.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Various Herbs and Vegetables</span> are -required for the purpose of making soups -and gravies. Of these the principal are,—Scotch -barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, -oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, -rice, vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, -mushroom or mushroom-ketchup, -champignons, parsnips, carrots, -beetroot, turnips, garlic, shalots, and -onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter -and flour till they are browned, and then -rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to -heighten the colour and flavour of brown -soups and sauces, and form the basis of -many of the fine relishes furnished by -the cook. The older and drier the onion, -the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, -cucumber, or burnet vinegar; celery or -celery seed pounded. The latter, though -equally strong, does not impart the delicate -sweetness of the fresh vegetable; -and when used as a substitute, its flavour -should be corrected by the addition -of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, -common thyme, lemon thyme, orange -thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, -mint, winter savoury, and basil. As -fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, -and its fine flavour is soon lost, -the best way of preserving the extract is -by pouring wine on the fresh leaves.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">For the Seasoning of Soups</span>, bay-leaves, -tomato, tarragon, chervil, burnet, -allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, -clove, mace, black and white pepper, essence -of anchovy, lemon peel and juice, -and Seville orange juice, are all taken. -The latter imparts a finer flavour than -the lemon, and the acid is much -milder. These materials, with wine, -mushroom ketchup, Harvey’s sauce, -tomato sauce, combined in various proportions, -are, with other ingredients, -manipulated into an almost endless variety -of excellent soups and gravies. -Soups, which are intended to constitute -the principal part of a meal, certainly -ought not to be flavoured like sauces, -which are only designed to give a relish -to some particular dish.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP-MAKING, the Chemistry -and Economy of.</h3> - -<p>Stock being the basis of all meat -soups, and, also, of all the principal -sauces, it is essential to the success of -these culinary operations, to know the -most complete and economical method -of extracting, from a certain quantity -of meat, the best possible stock, or broth. -The theory and philosophy of this process -we will, therefore, explain, and then -proceed to show the practical course to -be adopted.</p> - -<p>As all meat is principally composed of -fibres, fat, gelatine, osmazome, and -albumen, it is requisite to know that the -fibres are inseparable, constituting almost -all that remains of the meat after it has -undergone a long boiling.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fat</span> is dissolved by boiling; but as it -is contained in cells covered by a very -fine membrane, which never dissolves, -a portion of it always adheres to the -fibres. The other portion rises to the -surface of the stock, and is that which -has escaped from the cells which were -not whole, or which have burst by boiling.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Gelatine</span> is soluble; it is the basis -and the nutritious portion of the stock. -When there is an abundance of it, it -causes the stock, when cold, to become -a jelly.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Osmazome</span> is soluble even when cold<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[321]</a></span> -and is that part of the meat which gives -flavour and perfume to the stock. The -flesh of old animals contains more <i>osmazome</i> -than that of young ones. Brown -meats contain more than white, and the -former make the stock more fragrant. -By roasting meat, the osmazome appears -to acquire higher properties; so, by -putting the remains of roast meats into -your stock-pot, you obtain a better -flavour.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Albumen</span> is of the nature of the white -of eggs; it can be dissolved in cold or -tepid water, but coagulates when it is -put into water not quite at the boiling-point. -From this property in albumen, -it is evident that if the meat is put into -the stock-pot when the water boils, or -after this is made to boil up quickly, -the albumen, in both cases, hardens. In -the first it rises to the surface, in the -second it remains in the meat, but in -both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome -from dissolving; and hence a thin -and tasteless stock will be obtained. It -ought to be known, too, that the coagulation -of the albumen in the meat -always takes place, more or less, according -to the size of the piece, as the parts -farthest from the surface always acquire -<i>that degree</i> of heat which congeals it -before entirely dissolving it.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bones</span> ought always to form a component -part of the stock-pot. They are -composed of an earthy substance,—to -which they owe their solidity,—of gelatine, -and a fatty fluid, something like -marrow. <i>Two ounces</i> of them contain as -much gelatine as <i>one pound</i> of meat; -but in them, this is so incased in the -earthy substance, that boiling-water can -dissolve only the surface of whole bones. -By breaking them, however, you can -dissolve more, because you multiply their -surfaces; and by reducing them to powder -or paste, you can dissolve them -entirely; but you must not grind them -dry. We have said that gelatine forms -the basis of stock; but this, though very -nourishing, is entirely without taste; -and to make the stock savoury, it must -contain <i>osmazome</i>. Of this, bones do not -contain a particle; and that is the -reason why stock made entirely of them -is not liked; but when you add meat to -the broken or pulverized bones, the -osmazome contained in it makes the stock -sufficiently savoury.</p> - -<p>In concluding this part of our subject, -the following condensed hints and directions -should be attended to in the -economy of soup-making:—</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Beef makes the best Stock</span>; veal -stock has less colour and taste; whilst -mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy -smell, far from agreeable, unless the -meat has been previously roasted or -broiled. Fowls add very little to the -flavour of stock, unless they be old and -fat. Pigeons, when they are old, add -the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or -partridge is also a great improvement. -From the freshest meat the best stock is -obtained.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">If the Meat be Boiled</span> solely to -make stock, it must be cut up into the -smallest possible pieces; but, generally -speaking, if it is desired to have good -stock and a piece of savoury meat as -well, it is necessary to put a rather -large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient -for two or three days, during which -time the stock will keep well in all -weathers. Choose the freshest meat, -and have it cut as thick as possible; for -if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look -well, and will be very soon spoiled by the -boiling.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Never wash Meat</span>, as it deprives its -surface of all its juices; separate it from -the bones, and tie it round with tape, so -that its shape may be preserved, then -put it into the stock-pot, and for each -pound of meat, let there be one pint of -water; press it down with the hand, to -allow the air, which it contains, to -escape, and which often raises it to the -top of the water.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Put the Stock-pot on a Gentle -Fire</span>, so that it may heat gradually. The -albumen will first dissolve, afterwards -coagulate; and as it is in this state lighter -than the liquid, it will rise to the surface, -bringing with it all its impurities. -It is this which makes <i>the scum</i>. The -rising of the hardened albumen has the -same effect in clarifying stock as the -white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be -said that the more scum there is, the -clearer will be the stock. Always take -care that the fire is very regular.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Remove the Scum</span> when it rises -thickly, and do not let the stock boil, -because then one portion of the scum -will be dissolved, and the other go to the -bottom of the pot; thus rendering it -very difficult to obtain a clear broth. -If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary -to add cold water in order to -make the scum rise; but if the fire is too<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[322]</a></span> -large at first, it will then be necessary -to do so.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">When the Stock is well Skimmed</span>, -and begins to boil, put in salt and vegetables, -which to every 3 lbs. of meat -should consist of three carrots, two -turnips, one parsnip, a few leeks, and a -little celery. You can add, according to -taste, a piece of cabbage, two or three -cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. -The latter gives a very agreeable flavour -to the stock. If burnt onion be added, it -ought, according to the advice of a famous -French <i>chef</i>, to be tied in a little bag: -without this precaution, the colour of -the stock is liable to be clouded.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">By this time</span> we will now suppose -that you have chopped the bones which -were separated from the meat, and those -which were left from the roast meat of -the day before. Remember, as was -before pointed out, that the more these -are broken, the more gelatine you will -have. The best way to break them up -is to pound them roughly in an iron -mortar, adding, from time to time, a -little water, to prevent them getting -heated. It is a great saving thus to -make use of the bones of meat, which, -in too many English families, we fear, -are entirely wasted; for it is certain, as -previously stated, that two ounces of -bone contain as much gelatine (which is -the nutritive portion of stock) as one -pound of meat. In their broken state -tie them up in a bag, and put them in -the stock-pot; adding the gristly parts -of cold meat, and trimmings, which can -be used for no other purpose. If, to -make up the weight, you have received -from the butcher a piece of mutton or -veal, broil it slightly over a clear fire -before putting it in the stock-pot, and be -very careful that it does not contract the -least taste of being smoked or burnt.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Add now the Vegetables</span>, which, to -a certain extent, will stop the boiling of -the stock. Wait, therefore, till it -simmers well up again, then draw it to -the side of the fire, and keep it gently -simmering till it is served, preserving, as -before said, your fire always the same. -Cover the stock-pot well, to prevent -evaporation; do not fill it up, even if you -take out a little stock, unless the meat is -exposed; in which case a little boiling water -may be added, but only enough to -cover it. After six hours’ slow and -gentle simmering, the stock is done; -and it should not be continued on the -fire longer than is necessary, or it will -tend to insipidity.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—It is on a good stock, or first -good broth and sauce, that excellence in -cookery depends. If the preparation -of this basis of the culinary art is intrusted -to negligent or ignorant persons, -and the stock is not well skimmed, but -indifferent results will be obtained. -The stock will never be clear; and when -it is obliged to be clarified, it is deteriorated -both in quality and flavour. In -the proper management of the stock-pot -an immense deal of trouble is saved, -inasmuch as one stock, in a small dinner, -serves for all purposes. Above all -things, the greatest economy, consistent -with excellence, should be practised, -and the price of everything which enters -the kitchen correctly ascertained. The -<i>theory</i> of this part of Household Management -may appear trifling, but its practice -is extensive, and therefore it requires -the best attention.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of any kind of meat, -any trimmings or odd pieces; 2 onions, -2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split -peas, pepper and salt to taste, 4 quarts -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat and -vegetables in slices, add to them the rice -and peas, season with pepper and salt. -Put the whole in a jar, fill up with the -water, cover very closely, and bake for -4 hours. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -2½<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 10 or 12 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This will be found a very cheap -and wholesome soup, and will be convenient -in those cases where baking is more -easily performed than boiling.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Brilla.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of shin of beef, -3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large sprig of thyme, -2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and -pepper to taste, 4 quarts water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take the beef, cut off all the -meat from the bone, in nice square -pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. -Strain the liquor, let it cool, and take -off the fat; then put the pieces of meat -in the cold liquor; cut small the carrots, -turnips, and celery; chop the onions, -add them with the thyme and seasoning, -and simmer till the meat is tender. If -not brown enough, colour it with browning. -<i>Time.</i>—6 hours. <i>Average cost</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[323]</a></span> -5<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 10 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Chantilly.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of young green -peas, a small bunch of parsley, 2 young -onions, 2 quarts of medium stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the peas till quite tender, with -the parsley and onions; then rub them -through a sieve, and pour the stock to -them. Do not let it boil after the peas -are added, or you will spoil the colour. -Serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from -June to the end of August. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Cold peas pounded in a mortar, -with a little stock added to them, make -a very good soup in haste.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Calf’s-head.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ of calf’s head, 1 onion -stuck with cloves, a very small bunch of -sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and -white pepper to taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, -3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts of -white stock, or pot-liquor, or water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Rub the head with salt, soak it -for 6 hours, and clean it thoroughly, -put it in the stewpan, and cover it with -the stock, or pot-liquor, or water, adding -the onion and sweet herbs. When well -skimmed and boiled for 1½ hour, take -out the head, and skim and strain the -soup. Mix the rice-flour with the -ketchup, thicken the soup with it, and -simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the -head into pieces about two inches long, -and simmer them in the soup till the -meat and fat are quite tender. Season -with white pepper and mace finely -pounded, and serve very hot. When -the calf’s head is taken out of the soup, -cover it up or it will discolour. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per quart, -with stock. <i>Seasonable</i> from May to -October. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Forcemeat balls can be added, -and the soup may be flavoured with a -little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or -Madeira. The bones from the head may -be stewed down again, with a few fresh -vegetables, and it will make a very good -common stock.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Cantatrice. (An Excellent -Soup, very Beneficial for the -Voice.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredient.</i>—3 oz. of sago, ½ pint of -cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 lump of -sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf -(if liked), 2 quarts of medium stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Having -washed the sago in boiling -water, let it be gradually added to -the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for ½ -hour, when it should be well dissolved. -Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to -them the boiling cream; stir these -quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. -Do not let the soup boil, or the -eggs will curdle. <i>Time.</i>—40 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This is a soup, the principal -ingredients of which, sago and eggs, -have always been deemed very beneficial -to the chest and throat. In various -quantities, and in different preparations, -these have been partaken of by the principal -singers of the day, including the -celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny -Lind, and, as they have always avowed, -with considerable advantage to the voice, -in singing.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Crécy.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, -1 cut lettuce, and chervil; 2 oz. butter, -1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French -rolls, half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of -medium stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the vegetables -with the butter in the stewpan, -and let them simmer 5 minutes; then -add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, -and stew gently for half an hour. Now -fill it up with the remainder of the stock, -let it boil another hour, and put in the -crumb of the rolls. When well soaked, -rub all through a tammy. Have ready -the rice boiled; pour the soup over this, -and serve. <i>Time.</i>—1¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all -the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Flamande (Flemish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 turnip, 1 small carrot, -½ head of celery, 6 green onions shred -very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, ¼ -pint of asparagus cut small, ¼ pint of -peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, ½ -pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of -sugar, 2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the vegetables in the butter to stew -gently for an hour with a teacupful of -stock; then add the remainder of the -stock, and simmer for another hour. -Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix -with the cream (previously boiled), and -strain through a hair sieve. Take the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[324]</a></span> -soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c., to it -and keep stirring it well. Bring it almost -to boiling point, but do not leave off -stirring, or the eggs will curdle. Season -with salt, and add the sugar. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> from May to August. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Flamande (Flemish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 onions, 5 heads of -celery, 10 moderate-sized potatoes, 3 oz. -butter, ½ pint of water, ½ pint of cream, -2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the -onions, celery, and potatoes, and put -them with the butter and water into a -stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then -fill up the stewpan with stock, and boil -gently till the potatoes are done, which -will be in about an hour. Rub all -through a tammy, and add the cream -(previously boiled). Do not let it boil -after the cream is put in. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> from September to May. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This soup can be made with -water instead of stock.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, a Good Family.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Remains of a cold tongue, -2 lbs. of shin of beef, any cold pieces of -meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, -2 onions, 1 parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 -quarts of water, ½ teacupful of rice; salt -and pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Put all -the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer -gently for 4 hours, or until all the goodness -is drawn from the meat. Strain -off the soup, and let it stand to get cold. -The kernels and soft parts of the tongue -must be saved. When the soup is wanted -for use, skim off all the fat, put in the -kernels and soft parts of the tongue, -slice in a small quantity of fresh carrot, -turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetables -are tender, and serve with toasted -bread. <i>Time.</i>—5 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -3<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 12 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Hessian.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Half an ox’s head, 1 pint -of split peas, 8 carrots, 6 turnips, 6 -potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 -bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt -to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, -4 cloves, the crumb of a French -roll, 6 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean -the head, rub it with salt and water, and -soak it for 5 hours in warm water. -Simmer it in the water till tender, put -it into a pan and let it cool; skim off all -the fat; take out the head, and add the -vegetables cut up small, and the peas -which have been previously soaked; -simmer them without the meat, till they -are done enough to pulp through a sieve. -Put in the seasoning, with the pieces of -meat cut up; give one boil, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 16 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—An excellent hash or <i>ragoût</i> can -be made by cutting up the nicest parts -of the head, thickening and seasoning -more highly a little of the soup, and -adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls -of ketchup.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Portable.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 knuckles of veal, 3 -shins of beef, 1 large faggot of herbs, 2 -bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, -3 carrots, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves, a -teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to -cover all the ingredients. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -the marrow from the bones; put all the -ingredients in a stock-pot, and simmer -slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat -be not done to rags; strain it off, and put -it in a very cool place; take off all the -fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, -by setting it over a sharp fire, but be -particular that it does not burn; boil it -fast and uncovered for 8 hours, and keep -it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, and -set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan -of boiling water, place the dish in -it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, -and when the soup is thick and ropy, it -is done. Form it into little cakes by -pouring a small quantity on to the bottom -of cups or basins; when cold, turn them -out on a flannel to dry. Keep them from -the air in tin canisters. <i>Average cost</i> -of this quantity, 16<i>s.</i></p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Soup can be made in 5 minutes -with this, by dissolving a small piece, -about the size of a walnut, in a pint of -warm water, and simmering for 2 minutes. -Vermicelli, macaroni, or other -Italian pastes, may be added.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Prince of Wales’s.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 turnips, 1 lump of -sugar, 2 spoonfuls of strong veal stock, -salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[325]</a></span> -of very bright stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel the -turnips, and with a cutter cut them in -balls as round as possible, but very small. -Put them in the stock, which must be -very bright, and simmer till tender. -Add the veal stock and seasoning. -Have little pieces of bread cut round, -about the size of a shilling; moisten -them with stock; put them into a tureen -and pour the soup over without shaking, -for fear of crumbling the bread, which -would spoil the appearance of the soup, -and make it look thick. <i>Time.</i>—2 hours. -<i>Seasonable</i> in the winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for -8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Regency.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The bones and remains -of any cold game such as of pheasants, -partridges, &c.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, -1 head of celery, 1 turnip, ¼ lb. of pearl -barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, -¼ pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of -medium or common stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Place -the bones or remains of game in -the stewpan, with the vegetables sliced; -pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 -hours; skim off all the fat, and strain it. -Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3 -waters before putting it to the soup; -finish simmering in the soup, and when -the barley is done, take out half, and -pound the other half with the yolks of -the eggs. When you have finished -pounding, rub it through a clean tammy, -add the cream, and salt if necessary; -give one boil, and serve very hot, putting -in the barley that was taken out first. -<i>Time.</i>—2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per -quart, if made with medium stock, or 6<i>d.</i> -per quart, with common stock. <i>Seasonable</i> -from September to March. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Reine.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 large fowl, 1 oz. of -sweet almonds, the crumb of 1½ French -roll, ½ pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 -small lump of sugar, 2 quarts of good -white veal stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the fowl -gently in the stock till quite tender, -which will be in about an hour, or rather -more; take out the fowl, pull the meat -from the bones, and put it into a mortar -with the almonds, and pound very fine. -When beaten enough, put the meat back -in the stock, with the crumb of the rolls, -and let it simmer for an hour; rub it -through a tammy, add the sugar, ½ pint -of cream that has boiled, and, if you -prefer, cut the crust of the roll into -small round pieces, and pour the soup -over it, when you serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours, or rather more. <i>Average cost</i>, -2<i>s.</i> 7<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all the -year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—All white soups should be -warmed in a vessel placed in another of -boiling water.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Reine (Economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any remains of roast -chickens, ½ teacupful of rice, salt and -pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -all the white meat and pound it -with the rice, which has been slightly -cooked, but not too much. When it is all -well pounded, dilute with the stock, and -pass through a sieve. This soup should -neither be too clear nor too thick. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If stock is not at hand, put -the chicken-bones in water, with an -onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade -of mace, pepper and salt, and stew for 3 -hours.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, à la Solferino (Sardinian -Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 eggs, ½ pint of cream, -2 oz. of fresh butter, salt and pepper to -taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts -of bouillon. <i>Mode.</i>—Beat the eggs, put -them into a stewpan, and add the cream, -butter, and seasoning; stir in as much -flour as will bring it to the consistency -of dough; make it into balls, either -round or egg-shaped, and fry them in -butter; put them in the tureen, and pour -the boiling bouillon over them. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This recipe was communicated -to the Editress by an English gentleman, -who was present at the battle of Solferino, -on June 24, 1859, and who was -requested by some of Victor Emmanuel’s -troops, on the day before the battle, -to partake of a portion of their <i>potage.</i> -He willingly enough consented, and -found that these clever campaigners had -made a palatable dish from very easily-procured -materials. In sending the -recipe for insertion in this work, he has, -however, Anglicised, and somewhat, he -thinks, improved it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[326]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Spring, or Potage Printanier.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ a pint of green peas, -if in season, a little chervil, 2 shredded -lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of -parsley, 2 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 -eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste, -2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put in a clean stewpan -the chervil, lettuces, onions, parsley, -and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let -them simmer till tender. Season with -salt and pepper; when done, strain off -the vegetables, and put two-thirds of -the liquor they were boiled in to the -stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs -with the other third, give it a toss over -the fire, and at the moment of serving, -add this, with the vegetables which you -strained off, to the soup. <i>Time.</i>—¾ of -an hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> from May to October. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Stew.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, -5 turnips, ¾ lb. of rice, a large bunch of -parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and -salt, 2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the -beef up in small pieces, add the other -ingredients, and boil gently for 2½ hours. -Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great -improvement. <i>Time.</i>—2½ hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in -winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Stew.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of beef, mutton, or -pork; ½ pint of split peas, 4 turnips, 8 -potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 -oz. of rice, 2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the meat in small pieces, as also the -vegetables, and add them, with the -peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 -hours; thicken with the oatmeal, boil -for another ¼ hour, stirring all the time, -and season with pepper and salt. <i>Time.</i>—3¼ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This soup may be made of the -liquor in which tripe has been boiled, by -adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Stew, of Salt Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Any pieces of salt beef -or pork, say 2 lbs.; 4 carrots, 4 parsnips, -4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of -oatmeal or ground rice, seasoning of salt -and pepper, 2 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the meat small, add the water, -and let it simmer for 2¾ hours. Now add -the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; -season, and boil for 1 hour. Thicken -with the oatmeal, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> per quart -without the meat. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 6 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If rice is used instead of oatmeal, -put it in with the vegetables.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, Useful for Benevolent Purposes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—An ox-cheek, any pieces -of trimmings of beef, which may be -bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few -bones, any pot-liquor the larder may -furnish, ¼ peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large -bunch of herbs, ½ lb. of celery (the outside -pieces, or green tops, do very well); -½ lb. of carrots, ½ lb. of turnips, ½ lb. of -coarse brown sugar, ½ a pint of beer, 4 -lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley; ½ -lb. of salt, 1 oz. of black pepper, a few -raspings, 10 gallons of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Divide -the meat in small pieces, break -the bones, put them in a copper, with -the 10 gallons of water, and stew for -half an hour. Cut up the vegetables, -put them in with the sugar and beer, and -boil for 4 hours. Two hours before the -soup is wanted, add the rice and raspings, -and keep stirring till they are well -mixed in the soup, which simmer gently. -If the liquor boils away a little, fill up -with water. <i>Time.</i>—6½ hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1½<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - - -<h3>SOUP, White.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of sweet almonds, -¼ lb. of cold veal or poultry, a thick slice -of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, -1 blade of mace, pounded, ¾ pint -of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled -eggs, 2 quarts of white stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Reduce -the almonds in a mortar to -a paste, with a spoonful of water, -and add to them the meat, which -should be previously pounded with the -bread. Beat all together, and add the -lemon-peel, very finely chopped, and -the mace. Pour the boiling stock on -the whole, and simmer for an hour. -Rub the eggs in the cream, put in the -soup, bring it to a boil, and serve immediately. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> all -the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—-A more economical white soup -may be made by using common veal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[327]</a></span> -stock, and thickening with rice, flour, -and milk. Vermicelli should be served -with it. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - - -<h3>SPINACH, to Boil (English Mode).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 -heaped tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 oz. of -of butter, pepper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick -the spinach carefully, and see that no -stalks or weeds are left amongst it; -wash it in several waters, and, to prevent -it being gritty, act in the following -manner:—Have ready two large pans or -tubs filled with water; put the spinach -into one of these, and thoroughly wash it; -then, <i>with the hands</i>, take out the spinach, -and put it into the <i>other tub</i> of -water (by this means all the grit will be -left at the-bottom of the tub); wash -it again, and -should it not -be perfectly -free from dirt, -repeat the process. -Put it -into a very large saucepan, with about -½ pint of water, just sufficient to keep -the spinach from burning, and the above -proportion of salt. Press it down frequently -with a wooden spoon, that it -may be done equally; and when it has -boiled for rather more than 10 minutes, -or until it is perfectly tender, drain it in -a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop -it finely. Put the spinach into a clean -stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning -of pepper; stir the whole over the fire -until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, -and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, -5 minutes to warm with the butter. -<i>Average cost</i> for the above quantity, 8<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Spring -spinach from March to July; -winter spinach from November to March.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 204px;"> -<img src="images/illus-327.jpg" width="204" height="55" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SPINACH GARNISHED WITH -CROÛTONS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, -or lemon-juice may also be added to -enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are -also frequently served with spinach: they -should be placed on the top of it, and -it should be garnished with sippets of -toasted bread.</p> - - -<h3>SPINACH dressed with Cream, à -la Française.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 -tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 oz. of butter, 8 -tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful -of pounded sugar, a very little -grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil and drain -the spinach; chop it fine, and put it into -a stewpan with the butter; stir it over -a gentle fire, and, when the butter has -dried away, add the remaining ingredients, -and simmer for about 5 minutes. -Previously to pouring in the cream, boil it -first, in case it should curdle. Serve on -a hot dish, and garnish either with -sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 minutes to boil -the spinach; 10 minutes to stew with the -cream. <i>Average cost</i> for the above quantity, -8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Spring spinach from March -to July; winter spinach from November -to March.</p> - - -<h3>SPINACH, French Mode of Dressing.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 pailfuls of spinach, -2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 oz. of butter, -1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls -of good gravy; when liked, a very little -grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick, wash, -and boil the spinach, and when tender, -drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from -the water that hangs about it. Chop it -very fine, put the butter into a stewpan, -and lay the spinach over that; stir it -over a gentle fire, and dredge in the -flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil -<i>quickly</i> for a few minutes, that it may -not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg -is liked, grate some to the spinach, -and when thoroughly hot, and the gravy -has dried away a little, serve. Garnish -the dish with sippets of toasted bread. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 minutes to boil the -spinach; 10 minutes to simmer in the -gravy. <i>Average cost</i> for the above quantity, -8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Spring spinach from March -to July; winter spinach from October to -February.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—For an <i>entremets</i> or second-course -dish, spinach dressed by the above -recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; -it should then be turned out quickly, and -served immediately.</p> - - -<h3>SPINACH-GREEN, for Colouring -various Dishes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 handfuls of spinach. -<i>Mode.</i>—Pick and wash the spinach free -from dirt, and pound the leaves in a -mortar to extract the juice; then press -it through a hair sieve, and put the juice -into a small stewpan or jar. Place this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[328]</a></span> -in a bain marie, or saucepan of boiling -water, and let it set. Watch it closely, -as it should not boil; and, as soon as it -is done, lay it in a sieve, so that all the -water may drain from it, and the green -will then be ready for colouring. If -made according to this recipe, the -spinach-green will be found far superior -to that boiled in the ordinary way.</p> - - -<h3>SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—As much spinach as, -when boiled, will half fill a vegetable-dish, -2 quarts of very clear medium stock. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make the cooked spinach into -balls the size of an egg, and slip them -into the soup-tureen. This is a very -elegant soup, the green of the spinach -forming a pretty contrast to the brown -gravy. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>s.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> from October -to June.</p> - - -<h3>SPONGE-CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The weight of 8 eggs in -pounded loaf sugar, the weight of 5 in -flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful -of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the eggs into -one side of the scale, and take the weight -of 8 in pounded loaf sugar, and the -weight of 5 in good <i>dry</i> flour. Separate -the yolks from the whites of the eggs; -beat the former, put them into a saucepan -with the sugar, and let them remain -over the fire until <i>milk-warm</i>, keeping -them well stirred. Then put them into -a basin, add the grated lemon-rind -mixed with the brandy, and stir these -well together, dredging in the flour -very gradually. -Whisk the -whites of the -eggs to a very -stiff froth, stir -them to the -flour, &c., and -beat the cake -well for ¼ hour. -Put it into a buttered mould strewn with -a little fine-sifted sugar, and bake the -cake in a quick oven for 1½ hour. Care -must be taken that it is put into the -oven immediately, or it will not be light. -The flavouring of this cake may he varied -by adding a few drops of essence of almonds -instead of the grated lemon-rind. -<i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 1 cake. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 198px;"> -<img src="images/illus-328.jpg" width="198" height="122" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SPONGE-CAKE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>SPONGE-CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of loaf sugar, not -quite ¼ pint of water, 5 eggs, 1 lemon, ½ -lb. of flour, ¼ teaspoonful of carbonate of -soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the sugar and water -together until they form a thick syrup; -let it cool a little, then pour it to the -eggs, which should be previously well -whisked; and after the eggs and syrup -are mixed together, continue beating -them for a few minutes. Grate the -lemon-rind, mix the carbonate of soda -with the flour, and stir these lightly to -the other ingredients; then add the -lemon-juice, and, when the whole is -thoroughly mixed, pour it into a buttered -mould, and bake in rather a quick oven -for rather more than 1 hour. The remains -of sponge or Savoy cakes answer -very well for trifles, light puddings, &c.; -and a very stale one (if not mouldy) -makes an excellent tipsy cake. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make 1 cake. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SPONGE-CAKES, Small.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The weight of 5 eggs in -flour, the weight of 8 in pounded loaf -sugar; flavouring to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Let -the flour be perfectly dry, and the sugar -well pounded and sifted. Separate the -whites from the yolks of the eggs, and -beat the latter up with the sugar; then -whisk the whites until they become -rather stiff, and mix them with the yolks, -but do not stir them more than is just -necessary to mingle the ingredients well -together. Dredge in the flour by degrees, -add the flavouring; butter the -tins well, pour in the batter, sift a little -sugar over the cakes, and bake them in -rather a quick oven, but do not allow -them to take too much colour, as they -should be rather pale. Remove them -from the tins before they get cold, and -turn them on their faces, where let them -remain until quite cold, when store them -away in a closed tin canister or wide-mouthed -glass bottle. <i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 -minutes in a quick oven. <i>Average cost</i>, -1<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SPRATS.</h3> - -<p>Sprats should be cooked very fresh, -which can be ascertained by their bright -and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry; -fasten them in rows by a skewer run<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[329]</a></span> -through the eyes; dredge with flour, and -broil them on a gridiron over a nice clear -fire. The gridiron should be rubbed -with suet. Serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—3 -or 4 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to March.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Choose Sprats.</span>—Choose these -from their silvery appearance, as the -brighter they are, so are they the -fresher.</p> - - -<h3>SPRATS, Dried.</h3> - -<p>Dried sprats should be put into a -basin, and boiling water poured over -them; they may then be skinned and -served, and this will be found a much -better way than boiling them.</p> - - -<h3>SPRATS, Fried in Batter.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 eggs, flour, bread-crumbs; -seasoning of salt and pepper to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Wipe the sprats, and -dip them in a batter made of the above -ingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve -very hot, and garnish with fried parsley. -Sprats may be baked like herrings.</p> - - -<h3>SPROUTS, to Boil Young.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of water -allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a -<i>very small</i> piece of soda. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick -away all the dead leaves, and wash the -greens well in cold water; drain them in -a colander, and put them into fast-boiling -water, with salt and soda in the above -proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, -with the lid uncovered, until tender; and -the moment they are done, take them -up, or their colour will be spoiled; when -well drained, serve. The great art in -cooking greens properly, and to have -them a good colour, is to put them into -<i>plenty of fast-boiling</i> water, to let them -boil very quickly, and to take them up -the moment they become tender. <i>Time.</i>—Brocoli -sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; -young greens, 10 to 12 minutes; sprouts, -12 minutes, after the water boils. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Sprouts -of various kinds may -be had all the year.</p> - - -<h3>STEW, Irish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 lbs. of the loin or neck -of mutton, 5 lbs. of potatoes, 5 large -onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather -more than 1 pint of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Trim -off some of the fat of the above -quantity of loin or neck of mutton, and -cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. -Pare and halve the potatoes, and cut the -onions into thick slices. Put a layer of -potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, -then a layer of mutton and onions, and -season with pepper and salt; proceed in -this manner until the stewpan is full, -taking care to have plenty of vegetables -at the top. Pour in the water, and let it -stew very gently for 2½ hours, keeping -the lid of the stewpan closely shut the -<i>whole</i> time, and occasionally shaking the -preparation to prevent its burning. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, for this quantity, -2<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable for a winter dish.</p> - - -<h3>STEW, Irish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 lbs. of the breast -of mutton, 1½ pint of water, salt and -pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large -onions. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the mutton into a -stewpan with the water and a little salt, -and let it stew gently for an hour; cut -the meat into small pieces, skim the fat -from the gravy, and pare and slice the -potatoes and onions. Put all the ingredients -into the stewpan, in layers, first a -layer of vegetables, then one of meat, -and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and -salt between each layer; cover closely, -and let the whole stew very gently for -1 hour, or rather more, shaking it frequently -to prevent its burning. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than 2 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—Suitable for a winter dish.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Irish stew may be prepared in -the same manner as above, but baked in -a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours -or rather more in a moderate oven will -be sufficient time to bake it.</p> - - -<h3>STILTON CHEESE.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 252px;"> -<img src="images/illus-329.jpg" width="252" height="183" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">STILTON CHEESE.</div> -</div> - -<p>Stilton cheese, or British Parmesan, as -it is sometimes called, is generally preferred -to all other cheeses by those whose -authority -few will dispute. -Those -made in -May or June -are usually -served at -Christmas; -or, to be in -prime order, -should be -kept from -10 to 12 months, or even longer. An -artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[330]</a></span> -sometimes produced by inserting a small -piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture -at the top. From 3 weeks to a -month is sufficient time to ripen the -cheese. An additional flavour may also -be obtained by scooping out a piece from -the top, and pouring therein port, sherry, -Madeira, or old ale, and letting the -cheese absorb these for two or three -weeks. But that cheese is the finest -which is ripened without any artificial -aid, is the opinion of those who are -judges in these matters. In serving a -Stilton cheese, the top of it should be cut -off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of -white paper, with a frill at the top, -pinned round. When the cheese goes -from table, the lid should be replaced.</p> - - -<h3><a id="STOCKS"></a>STOCKS for all kinds of Soups -(Rich Strong Stock).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of shin of beef, -4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, ¼ lb. of good lean -ham; any poultry trimmings; 2 oz. of -butter; 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 turnips (the -latter should be omitted in summer, lest -they ferment), 1 head of celery, a few -chopped mushrooms, when obtainable; -1 tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not -forgetting parsley; 1½ oz. of salt, 3 lumps -of sugar, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, -3 small blades of mace, 4 quarts of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Line a delicately clean stewpan -with the ham cut in thin broad slices, -carefully trimming off all its rusty fat; -cut up the beef and veal in pieces about -3 inches square, and lay them on the -ham; set it on the stove, and draw it -down, and stir frequently. When the -meat is equally browned, put in the beef -and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, -and pour in the cold water. Skim well, -and occasionally add a little cold water, -to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite -clear; then put in all the other ingredients, -and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. -Do not let it come to a brisk boil, that -the stock be not wasted, and that its -colour may be preserved. Strain through -a very fine hair sieve, or cloth, and the -stock will be fit for use. <i>Time.</i>—5 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - - -<h3>STOCK, Economical.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The liquor in which a -joint of meat has been boiled, say -4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or -poultry, shank-bones, &c., roast-beef -bones, any pieces the larder may furnish; -vegetables, spices, and the same -seasoning as in the foregoing recipe. -<i>Mode.</i>—Let all the ingredients simmer -gently for 6 hours, taking care to skim -carefully at first. Strain it off, and put -by for use. <i>Time.</i>—6 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 3<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - - -<h3>STOCK, Medium.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of shin of beef, or -4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, or 2 lbs. of -each; any bones, trimmings of poultry, -or fresh meat, ¼ lb. of lean bacon or -ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each -stuck with 3 cloves; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, -1 head of celery, 3 lumps of sugar, 2 oz. -of salt, ½ a teaspoonful of whole pepper, -1 large blade of mace, 1 bunch of savoury -herbs, 4 quarts and ½ pint of cold water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the meat and bacon or -ham into pieces of about 3 inches square; -rub the butter on the bottom of the -stewpan; put in ½ a pint of water, the -meat, and all the other ingredients. -Cover the stewpan, and place it on a -sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. -When the bottom of the pan becomes -covered with a pale, jelly-like -substance, add the 4 quarts of cold water, -and simmer very gently for 5 hours. -As we have said before, do not let it boil -quickly. Remove every particle of scum -whilst it is doing, and strain it through -a fine hair sieve. This stock is the basis -of most of the soups mentioned in this -dictionary, and will be found quite strong -enough for ordinary purposes. <i>Time.</i>—5½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - - -<h3>STOCK, To Clarify.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The whites of 2 eggs, -½ pint of water, 2 quarts of stock. -<i>Mode.</i>—Supposing that by some accident -the soup is not quite clear, and that its -quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of -2 eggs, carefully separated from their -yolks, whisk them well together with -the water, and add gradually the 2 quarts -of boiling stock, still whisking. Place -the soup on the fire, and when boiling -and well skimmed, whisk the eggs with -it till nearly boiling again; then draw -it from the fire, and let it settle, until -the whites of the eggs become separated. -Pass through a fine cloth, and the soup -should be clear.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The rule is, that all clear soups -should be of a light straw-colour, and -should not savour too strongly of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[331]</a></span> -meat; and that all white or brown thick -soups should have no more consistency -than will enable them to adhere slightly -to the spoon when hot. All <i>purées</i> -should be somewhat thicker.</p> - - -<h3>STOCK, White (to be used in the -preparation of White Soups).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, -any poultry trimmings, 4 slices of lean -ham, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, -12 white peppercorns, 2 oz. of salt, -1 blade of mace, a bunch of herbs, 1 oz. -butter, 4 quarts of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the veal, and put it with the bones -and trimmings of poultry, and the ham, -into the stewpan, which has been rubbed -with the butter. Moisten with ½ a pint -of water, and simmer till the gravy begins -to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of -water and the remainder of the ingredients; -simmer for 5 hours. After skimming -and straining it carefully through -a very fine hair sieve, it will be ready -for use. <i>Time.</i>—5½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -9<i>d.</i> per quart.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When stronger stock is desired, -double the quantity of veal, or put -in an old fowl. The liquor in which a -young turkey has been boiled, is an -excellent addition to all white stock or -soups.</p> - - -<h3>STOCK, Consommé or White, for -many Sauces.</h3> - -<p>Consommé is made precisely in the -same manner as white stock, and, for -ordinary purposes, will be found quite -good enough. When, however, a stronger -stock is desired, either put in half the -quantity of water, or double that of the -meat. This is a very good foundation -for all white sauces.</p> - - -<h3>STRAWBERRY JAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit -allow ½ pint of red-currant juice, 1¼ lb. -of loaf sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Strip the currants -from the stalks, put them into a -jar; place this jar in a saucepan of boiling -water, and simmer until the juice -is well drawn from the fruit; strain the -currants, measure the juice, put it into -a preserving pan, and add the sugar. -Select well-ripened but sound strawberries; -pick them from the stalks, and -when the sugar is dissolved in the currant-juice, -put in the fruit. Simmer the -whole over a moderate fire, from ½ to ¾ -hour, carefully removing the scum as it -rises. Stir the jam only enough to prevent -it from burning at the bottom of -the pan, as the fruit should be preserved -as whole as possible. Put the -jam into jars, and when cold, cover -down. <i>Time.</i>—½ to ¾ hour, reckoning -from the time the jam simmers all over. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 7<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> per lb. pot. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—12 pints of strawberries will -make 12 lbs. of jam. <i>Seasonable</i> in June -and July.</p> - - -<h3>STRAWBERRY JELLY.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Strawberries, pounded -sugar; to every pint of juice allow 1¼ oz. -of isinglass. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick the strawberries, -put them into a pan, squeeze -them well with a wooden spoon, add -sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them -nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, -that the juice may be extracted; then -add ½ pint of water to every pint of -juice. Strain the strawberry-juice and -water through a bag; measure it, and -to every pint allow 1¼ oz. of isinglass, -melted and clarified in ¼ pint of water. -Mix this with the juice; put the jelly -into a mould, and set the mould in ice. -A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice -improves the flavour of the -jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it -must be well strained before it is put -to the other ingredients, or it will make -the jelly muddy. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour to -draw the juice. <i>Average cost</i>, with the -best isinglass, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1½ pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in June, July, and August.</p> - - -<h3>STRAWBERRIES and CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of picked -strawberries allow 1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. -of finely-pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Pick -the stalks from the fruit, place it on -a glass dish, sprinkle over it pounded -sugar, and slightly stir the strawberries, -that they may all be equally sweetened; -pour the cream over the top, and serve. -Devonshire cream, when it can be obtained, -is exceedingly delicious for this -dish; and, if very thick indeed, may -be diluted with a little thin cream or -milk. <i>Average cost</i> for this quantity, -with cream at 1<i>s.</i> per pint, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 2 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in June -and July.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[332]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>STRAWBERRIES, Preserved in -Wine.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every quart bottle -allow ¼ lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar; -sherry or Madeira. <i>Mode.</i>—Let the fruit -be gathered in fine weather, and used as -soon as picked. Have ready some perfectly -dry glass bottles, and some nice -soft corks or bungs. Pick the stalks -from the strawberries, drop them into -the bottles, sprinkling amongst them -pounded sugar in the above proportion, -and when the fruit reaches to the neck of -the bottle, fill up with sherry or Madeira. -Cork the bottles down with new corks, -and dip them into melted resin. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in June or July.</p> - - -<h3>STRAWBERRIES, to Preserve -Whole.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of fruit -allow 1½ lb. of good loaf sugar, 1 pint of -red-currant juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose the -strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large -sort and of a good colour. Pick off the -stalks, lay the strawberries in a dish, -and sprinkle over them half the quantity -of sugar, which must be finely pounded. -Shake the dish gently, that the sugar -may be equally distributed and touch -the under-side of the fruit, and let it -remain for 1 day. Then have ready the -currant-juice, drawn as for red-currant -jelly; boil it with the remainder of the -sugar until it forms a thin syrup, and -in this simmer the strawberries and -sugar, until the whole is sufficiently -jellied. Great care must be taken not to -stir the fruit roughly, as it should be -preserved as whole as possible. Strawberries -prepared in this manner are very -good served in glasses and mixed with -thin cream. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour to 20 minutes -to simmer the strawberries in the -syrup. <i>Seasonable</i> in June and July.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 223px;"> -<img src="images/illus-332a.jpg" width="223" height="107" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OPEN TART.</div> -</div> - -<h3>STRAWBERRY, Open Tart of, or -any other Kind of Preserve.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Trimmings of puff-paste, -any kind of jam. <i>Mode.</i>—Butter a tart-pan -of the shape shown in the engraving, -roll out the paste to the thickness of ½ -an inch, and line the pan with it; prick -a few holes at the bottom with a fork, -and bake the tart in a brisk oven from -10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a -little; then fill it with preserve, place a -few stars or leaves on it, which have -been previously cut out of the paste and -baked, and the tart is ready for table. -By making it in this manner, both the -flavour and colour of the jam are preserved, -which would otherwise be lost, -were it baked in the oven on the paste; -and, besides, so much jam is not required. -<i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 min. <i>Average -cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 tart for 3 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;"> -<img src="images/illus-332b.jpg" width="239" height="125" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">OPEN-TART MOULD.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>STURGEON, Baked.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 small sturgeon, salt -and pepper to taste, 1 small bunch of -herbs, the juice of ½ lemon, ¼ lb. of -butter, 1 pint of white wine. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse -the fish thoroughly, skin it, and -split it along the belly without separating -it; have ready a large baking-dish, in -which lay the fish, sprinkle over the -seasoning and herbs very finely minced, -and moisten it with the lemon-juice and -wine. Place the butter in small pieces -over the whole of the fish, put it in the -oven, and baste frequently; brown it -nicely, and serve with its own gravy. -<i>Time.</i>—Nearly 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> -to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from August -to March.</p> - - -<h3>STURGEON, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Veal stuffing, buttered -paper, the tail-end of a sturgeon. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse -the fish, bone and skin it; -make a nice veal stuffing (<i>see</i> <a href="#FORCEMEATS">Forcemeats</a>), -and fill it with the part where the bones -came from; roll it in buttered paper, -bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet -of veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven -before a clear fire. Serve with good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[333]</a></span> -brown gravy, or plain melted butter. -<i>Time.</i>—About 1 hour. <i>Average costs</i>, -1<i>s.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to March.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Sturgeon maybe plainly boiled, -and served with Dutch sauce. The fish -is very firm, and requires long boiling.</p> - - -<h3>SUET PUDDING, to serve with -Roast Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of -finely-chopped suet, ½ saltspoonful of -salt, ½ saltspoonful of pepper, ½ pint of -milk or water. <i>Mode.</i>—Chop the suet -very finely, after freeing it from skin, -and mix it well with the flour; add the -salt and pepper (this latter ingredient -may be omitted if the flavour is not liked), -and make the whole into a smooth paste -with the above proportion of milk or -water. Tie the pudding in a floured -cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, -and boil from 2½ to 3 hours. To enrich -it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for some of -the milk or water, and increase the proportion -of suet. <i>Time.</i>—2½ to 3 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When there is a joint roasting -or baking, this pudding may be boiled in -a long shape, and then cut into slices a -few minutes before dinner is served; -these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan -for a minute or two, and then -browned before the fire. Most children -like this accompaniment to roast-meat.</p> - - -<h3>SUGAR, to Boil, to Caramel.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of lump -sugar allow 1 gill of spring water. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the sugar and water together very -quickly over a clear fire, skimming it -very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep -it boiling until the sugar snaps when a -little of it is dropped in a pan of cold -water. If it remains hard, the sugar has -attained the right degree; then squeeze -in a little lemon-juice, and let it remain -an instant on the fire. Set the pan into -another of cold water, and the caramel -is then ready for use. The insides of -well-oiled moulds are often ornamented -with this sugar, which with a fork should -be spread over them in fine threads or -network. A dish of light pastry, tastefully -arranged, looks very pretty with -this sugar spun lightly over it.</p> - - -<h3>SUPPERS.</h3> - -<p>Much may be done in the arrangement -of a supper-table, at a very small -expense, provided <i>taste</i> and <i>ingenuity</i> are -exercised. The colours and flavours of -the various dishes should contrast nicely; -there should be plenty of fruit and -flowers on the table, and the room should -be well lighted. We have endeavoured -to show how the various dishes may be -placed; but of course these little matters -entirely depend on the length and width -of the table used, on individual taste, -whether the tables are arranged round -the room, whether down the centre, -with a cross one at the top, or whether -the supper is laid in two separate rooms, -&c., &c. The garnishing of the dishes -has also much to do with the appearance -of a supper-table. Hams and tongues -should be ornamented with cut vegetable -flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut -in dice, and all the dishes garnished -sufficiently to be in good taste without -looking absurd. The eye, in fact, should -be as much gratified as the palate. Hot -soup is now often served at suppers, but -is not placed on the table. The servants -fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, -and then hand them to the guests: when -these plates are removed, the business of -supper commences.</p> - -<p>Where small rooms and large parties -necessitate having a standing supper, -many things enumerated in the following -bill of fare may be placed on the buffet. -Dishes for these suppers should be selected -which may be eaten standing -without any trouble. The following list -may, perhaps, assist our readers in the -arrangement of a buffet for a standing -supper.</p> - -<p>Beef, ham, and tongue-sandwiches, -lobster and oyster-patties, sausage-rolls, -meat-rolls, lobster-salad, dishes of fowls, -the latter <i>all cut up</i>; dishes of sliced -ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and galantine -of veal; various jellies, blancmanges, -and creams; custards in glasses, -compôtes of fruit, tartlets of jam, and -several dishes of small fancy pastry; -dishes of fresh fruit, bon-bons, sweetmeats, -two or three sponge-cakes, a few -plates of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented -with vases of fresh or artificial -flowers. The above dishes are quite sufficient -for a standing supper; where -more are desired, a supper must then be -laid and arranged in the usual manner.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[334]</a></span></p> - - -<h3 class="center">SUPPER, BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL, FOR 60 PERSONS -(for Winter).</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/illus-334.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="menu" /> -</div> - -<p class="courses"> -<span class="smcap">Boar’s Head</span> -garnished with Aspic Jelly. -Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. - -Fruited Jelly. Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe. - -Small Ham, garnished. - -Small Pastry. Biscuits. - -Iced Savoy Cake. - -Vanilla Cream. Epergne, with Fruit. Fruited Jelly. - -Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. - -Prawns. Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Sauce. Prawns. - -Biscuits. Small Pastry. - -Tongue, ornamented. - -Custards, in glasses. Trifle, ornamented. Custards, in glasses. - -Raised Chicken Pie. - -Tipsy Cake. - -Fruited Jelly. Swiss Cream. - -Roast Pheasant. - -Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. - -Meringues. Epergne, with Fruit. Meringues. - -Galantine of Veal. - -Raspberry Cream. Fruited Jelly. - -Tipsy Cake. - -Small Pastry. Biscuits. - -Raised Game Pie. - -Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. - -Custards, in glasses. Trifle, ornamented. Custards, in glasses. - -Tongue, ornamented. - -Prawns. Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Sauce. Prawns. - -Biscuits. Small Pastry. - -—— - -EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. - -—— -Fruited Jelly. Iced Savoy Cake. Blancmange. - -Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. - -Small Ham, garnished. - -Mayonnaise of Fowl. - -Charlotte Russe. Fruited Jelly. - -Larded Capon. -</p> -<div class="blockquot"> -<p><i>Note.</i>—When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Julienne may be -selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers, Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, -Wines, and Liqueurs will be required. Punch à la Romaine may also be added to the -list of beverages.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[335]</a></span></p> - -<h3 class="center">SUPPER, BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL,</h3> - -<p class="center">Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding or Christening -Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July),</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/illus-335.jpg" width="600" height="757" alt="menu" /> -</div> -<p class="courses"> -Dish of Lobster, cut up. Tongue. - -3 Compôtes of Fruit. - -Ribs of Lamb. Veal-and-Ham Pie. - -20 Small Dishes of various Summer Fruits. - -Two Roast Fowls. - -4 Blancmanges, to be placed down the table. - -3 Dishes of Small Pastry. - -Mayonnaise of Salmon. - -Charlotte Russe à la Vanille. Lobster Salad. Epergne, with Flowers. Lobster Salad. Savoy Cake. - -Mayonnaise of Trout. - -Tongue, garnished. - -Dish of Lobster, cut up. - -Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. - -Pigeon Pie. Collared Eel. - -3 English Pines. - -Ham. - -Raised Pie. - -Lobster Salad. Two Roast Fowls. Lobster Salad. - -Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. - -Mayonnaise of Salmon. - -Dish of Lobster, cut up. - -3 Fruit Tarts. - -Larded Capon. Epergne, with Flowers. Boar’s Head. Pigeon Pie. - -Mayonnaise of Trout. - -Tongue. - -Lobster Salad. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Lobster Salad. - -Raised Pie. - -Ham, decorated. - -Dish of Lobster, cut up. - -3 Cheesecakes. - -Pigeon Pie. Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. Dish of Lobster, cut up. - -4 Jellies, to be placed down the table. - -Two Roast Fowls. - -Mayonnaise of Salmon. - -Charlotte Russe à la Vanille. - -Veal and Ham Pie. - -Dish of Lobster, cut up. Savoy Cake. Lobster Salad. Epergne, with Flowers. Lobster Salad. - -Mayonnaise of Trout. - -Dish of Lobster, cut up. - -Tongue, garnished. - -Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. - -Collared Eel. -</p> -<div class="blockquot"> -<p><i>Note.</i>—The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes as they should be placed -on the table; they should be arranged with the large and high dishes down the centre, and -the spaces filled up with the smaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking care that the flavours and -colours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort come together. This bill of fare may -be made to answer three or four purposes, placing a wedding cake or christening cake in the -centre on a high stand, if required for either of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobster -salads, &c. &c., should be kept in reserve to replenish those that are most likely to be eaten -first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef should be placed on the buffet, as being something -substantial for the gentlemen of the party to partake of. Besides the articles enumerated in -the bill of fare, biscuits and wafers will be required, cream-and-water ices, tea, coffee, wines, -liqueurs, soda-water, ginger-beer, and lemonade.</p> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[336]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SWEETBREADS, Baked (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 sweetbreads, egg and -bread-crumbs, oiled butter, 3 slices of -toast, brown gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -large white sweetbreads; put them into -warm water to draw out the blood, and -to improve their colour; let them remain -for rather more than 1 hour; then put -them into boiling water, and allow them -to simmer for about 10 minutes, which -renders them firm. Take them up, drain -them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with -bread-crumbs; dip them in egg again, -and then into more bread-crumbs. Drop -on them a little oiled butter, and put the -sweetbreads into a moderately-heated -oven, and let them bake for nearly ¾ -hour. Make 3 pieces of toast; place the -sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, -but not over them, a good brown gravy. -<i>Time.</i>—To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 -minutes, baked 40 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> to 5<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for an entrée. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—In full season from May to -August.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 248px;"> -<img src="images/illus-336.jpg" width="248" height="73" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SWEETBREADS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>SWEETBREADS, Fried (à la -Maître d’Hôtel), an Entrée.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 sweetbreads, egg and -bread-crumbs, ¼ lb. of butter, salt and -pepper to taste, rather more than ½ pint -of maître-d’hôtel sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Soak -the sweetbreads in warm water for an -hour; then boil them for 10 minutes; -cut them in slices, egg and bread-crumb -them, season with pepper and salt, and -put them into a frying-pan, with the -above proportion of butter. Keep turning -them until done, which will be in -about 10 minutes; dish them, and pour -over them a maître-d’hôtel sauce. The -dish may be garnished with slices of cut -lemon. <i>Time.</i>—To soak 1 hour, to be -boiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> to 5<i>s.</i>, according -to the season. <i>Sufficient</i> for an -entrée. <i>Seasonable.</i>—In full season from -May to August.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The egg and bread-crumb may -be omitted, and the slices of sweetbread -dredged with a little flour instead, and a -good gravy may be substituted for the -maître-d’hôtel sauce. This is a very -simple method of dressing them.</p> - - -<h3>SWEETBREADS, Stewed (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of -white stock, thickening of butter and -flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon-juice, 1 blade of -pounded mace, white pepper and salt to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Soak the sweetbreads in -warm water for 1 hour, and boil them for -10 minutes; take them out, put them -into cold water for a few minutes; lay -them in a stewpan with the stock, and -simmer them gently for rather more than -½ hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy -with a little butter and flour; let it boil -up, add the remaining ingredients, allow -the sauce to get quite <i>hot</i>, but <i>not boil</i>, -and pour it over the sweetbreads. <i>Time.</i>—To -soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, -stewed rather more than ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 1<i>s.</i> to 5<i>s.</i>, according -to the season. <i>Sufficient</i> for an entrée. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—In full season from May to -August.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A few mushrooms added to this -dish, and stewed with the sweetbreads, -will be found an improvement.</p> - - -<h3>SWEETBREADS, Lambs’, larded, -and Asparagus (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 sweetbreads, ½ -pint of veal stock, white pepper and salt -to taste, a small bunch of green onions, -1 blade of pounded mace, thickening of -butter and flour, 2 eggs, nearly ½ pint of -cream, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, -a very little grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Soak -the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, -and put them into a saucepan with sufficient -boiling water to cover them, and -let them simmer for 10 minutes; then -take them out and put them into cold -water. Now lard them, lay them in a -stewpan, add the stock, seasoning, onions, -mace, and a thickening of butter and -flour, and stew gently for ¼ hour or 20 -minutes. Beat up the egg with the -cream, to which add the minced parsley -and a very little grated nutmeg. Put -this to the other ingredients; stir it well -till quite hot, but do not let it boil after -the cream is added, or it will curdle. -Have ready some asparagus-tops, boiled; -add these to the sweetbreads, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—Altogether ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[337]</a></span> -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—3 -sweetbreads for 1 entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> -from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>SWEETBREADS, another Way -to Dress (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Sweetbreads, egg and -bread-crumbs, ½ pint of gravy, ½ glass of -sherry. <i>Mode.</i>—Soak the sweetbreads in -water for an hour, and throw them into -boiling water to render them firm. Let -them stew gently for about ¼ hour, take -them out and put them into a cloth to -drain all the water from them. Brush -them over with egg, sprinkle them with -bread-crumbs, and either brown them in -the oven or before the fire. Have ready -the above quantity of gravy, to which -add ½ glass of sherry; dish the sweetbreads, -pour the gravy under them, and -garnish with water-cresses. <i>Time.</i>—Rather -more than ½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i>—3 -sweetbreads for 1 entrée. <i>Seasonable</i>, -from Easter to Michaelmas.</p> - - -<h3>SYLLABUB.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of sherry or white -wine, ½ grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, -1½ pint of milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the wine -into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and -plenty of pounded sugar, and milk into -it the above proportion of milk from the -cow. Clouted cream may be laid on the -top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg -and sugar; and a little brandy may be -added to the wine before the milk is put -in. In some counties, cider is substituted -for the wine: when this is used, -brandy must always be added. Warm -milk may be poured on from a spouted -jug or teapot; but it must be held very -high. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>SYLLABUBS, Whipped.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of cream, ¼ -pint of sherry, half that quantity -of brandy, the juice of ½ lemon, a -little grated nutmeg, 3 oz. of pounded -sugar, whipped cream the same as for -trifle. <i>Mode.</i>—Mix all the ingredients -together, put the syllabub into glasses, -and over the top of them heap a little -whipped cream, made in the same manner -as for trifle. Solid syllabub is made by -whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff -froth, and putting it in the glasses, without -the whipped cream at the top. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to fill -8 or 9 glasses. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3><a id="SYRUP"></a>SYRUP for Jellies, to Clarify.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every quart of water -allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar; the white of -1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the sugar and water -into a stewpan; set it on the fire, and, -when the sugar is dissolved, add the -white of the egg, whipped up with a little -water. Whisk the whole well together, -and simmer very gently until it has -thrown up all the scum. Take this off -as it rises, strain the syrup through a fine -sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it -for use.</p> - - -<h3>TAPIOCA PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of tapioca, 1 quart -of milk, 2 oz. of butter, ¼ lb. of sugar, -4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated -lemon-rind, or bitter almonds. <i>Mode.</i>—Wash -the tapioca, and let it stew -gently in the milk by the side of the -fire for ¼ hour, occasionally stirring it; -then let it cool a little; mix with it the -butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be -wall beaten, and flavour with either of -the above ingredients, putting in about -12 drops of the essence of almonds or -vanilla, whichever is preferred. Butter -a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; -put in the pudding, and bake in a -moderate oven for an hour. If the pudding -is boiled, add a little more tapioca, -and boil it in a buttered basin 1½ hour. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour to bake, 1½ hour to boil. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TAPIOCA SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts -of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the tapioca into -cold stock, and bring it gradually to a -boil. Simmer gently till tender, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 1 hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>TARTLETS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Trimmings of puff-paste, -any jam or marmalade that may be preferred. -<i>Mode.</i>—Roll out the paste to -the thickness of about ½ inch; butter -some small round patty-pans, line them -with it, and cut off the superfluous paste<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[338]</a></span> -close to the edge of the pan. Put a -small piece of bread into each tartlet -(this is to keep -them in shape), -and bake in a -brisk oven for -about 10 minutes, -or rather -longer. When -they are done, -and are of a nice -colour, take the pieces of bread out -carefully, and replace them by a spoonful -of jam or marmalade. Dish them -high on a white d’oyley, piled high in -the centre, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> each. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 -lb. of paste will make 2 dishes -of tartlets. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 202px;"> -<img src="images/illus-338.jpg" width="202" height="108" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">DISH OF TARTLETS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>TARTLETS, Polish.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Puff-paste, the white of -an egg, pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Roll -some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it -into 2½-inch squares; brush each square -over with the white of an egg, then fold -down the corners, so that they all meet -in the middle of each piece of paste; -slightly press the two pieces together, -brush them over with the egg, sift over -sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for -about ¼ hour. When they are done, -make a little hole in the middle of the -paste, and fill it up with apricot jam, -marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile -them high in the centre of a dish, on a -napkin, and garnish with the same preserve -the tartlets are filled with. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour or 20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -with ½ lb. of puff-paste, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for -2 dishes of pastry. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—It should be borne in mind, -that, for all dishes of small pastry, such -as the preceding, trimmings of puff-paste, -left from larger tarts, answer as -well as making the paste expressly.</p> - - -<h3>TEA, to make.</h3> - -<p>There is very little art in making -good tea; if the water is boiling, and -there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, -the beverage will almost invariably be -good. The old-fashioned plan of allowing -a teaspoonful to each person, and -one over, is still practised. Warm the -teapot with boiling water; let it remain -for two or three minutes for the vessel -to become thoroughly hot, then pour it -away. Put in the tea, pour in from ½ -to ¾ pint of <i>boiling</i> water, close the lid, -and let it stand for the tea to draw -from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the -pot with water. The tea will be quite -spoiled unless made with water that is -actually <i>boiling</i>, as the leaves will not -open, and the flavour not be extracted -from them; the beverage will consequently -be colourless and tasteless,—in -fact, nothing but tepid water. Where -there is a very large party to make tea -for, it is a good plan to have two teapots, -instead of putting a large quantity -of tea into one pot; the tea, besides, -will go farther. When the infusion has -been once completed, the addition of -fresh tea adds very little to the strength; -so, when more is required, have the -pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, -and fresh tea made in the usual manner. -Economists say that a few grains of carbonate -of soda, added before the boiling -water is poured on the tea, assist to -draw out the goodness; if the water is -very hard, perhaps it is a good plan, -as the soda softens it; but care must -be taken to use this ingredient sparingly, -as it is liable to give the tea a -soapy taste if added in too large a -quantity. For mixed tea, the usual -proportion is four spoonfuls of black to -one of green; more of the latter when -the flavour is very much liked; but strong -green tea is highly pernicious, and should -never be partaken of too freely. <i>Time.</i>—2 -minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 -minutes to draw the strength from the -tea. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow 1 teaspoonful to -each person.</p> - - -<h3>TEA-CAKES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of flour, ½ teaspoonful -of salt, ¼ lb. of butter or lard, -1 egg, a piece of German yeast the size -of a walnut, warm milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the -flour (which should be perfectly dry) into -a basin; mix with it the salt, and rub in -the butter or lard; then beat the egg -well, stir to it the yeast, and add these -to the flour with as much warm milk as -will make the whole into a smooth paste, -and knead it well. Let it rise near the -fire, and, when well risen, form it into -cakes; place them on tins, let them rise -again for a few minutes before putting -them into the oven, and bake from ¼ to -½ hour in a moderate oven. These are -very nice with a few currants and a little -sugar added to the other ingredients,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[339]</a></span> -they should be put in after the butter is -rubbed in. These cakes should be buttered, -and eaten hot as soon as baked; -but, when stale, they are very nice split -and toasted; or, if dipped in milk, or -even water, and covered with a basin in -the oven till hot, they will be almost -equal to new. <i>Time.</i>—¼ to ½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make -8 tea-cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TEA-CAKES, to toast.</h3> - -<p>Cut each tea-cake into three or four -slices, according to its thickness; toast -them on both sides before a nice clear -fire, and as each slice is done, spread it -with butter on -both sides. -When a cake is -toasted, pile the -slices one on the -top of the other, cut them into quarters, -put them on a very hot plate, and send -the cakes immediately to table. As -they are wanted, send them in hot, one -or two at a time, as, if allowed to -stand, they spoil, unless kept in a muffin-plate -over a basin of boiling water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 209px;"> -<img src="images/illus-339.jpg" width="209" height="65" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">TEA-CAKES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>TEAL, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Teal, butter, a little -flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose fat, plump birds, -after the frost has set in, as they are -generally better flavoured; truss them -in the same manner as wild duck; roast -them before a brisk fire, and keep them -well basted. Serve with brown or orange -gravy, water-cresses, and a cut lemon. -The remains of teal make excellent hash. -<i>Time.</i>—From 9 to 15 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> each; but seldom bought. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 -for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from -October to February.</p> - - -<h3>TEAL.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Teal</span>, being of the same character as -widgeon and wild duck, may be treated, -in carving, in the same style.</p> - - -<h3>TENCH, Matelot of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of stock, ½ pint of -port wine, 1 dozen button onions, a few -mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades of -mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of -minced parsley, thyme, 1 shalot, 2 anchovies, -1 teacupful of stock, flour, 1 dozen -oysters, the juice of ½ lemon; the number -of tench, according to size. <i>Mode.</i>—Scale -and clean the tench, cut them into -pieces, and lay them in a stewpan; add -the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, -herbs, and mace, and simmer gently for -½ hour. Put into another stewpan all -the remaining ingredients but the oysters -and lemon-juice, and boil slowly for -10 minutes, when add the strained liquor -from the tench, and keep stirring it over -the fire until somewhat reduced. Rub it -through a sieve, pour it over the tench -with the oysters, which must be previously -scalded in their own liquor, -squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve. -Garnish with croûtons. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> from October to June.</p> - - -<h3>TENCH, Stewed with Wine.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of stock, ½ pint of -Madeira or sherry, salt and pepper to -taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter -and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean and crimp the -tench, carefully lay it in a stewpan with -the stock, wine, salt and pepper, and -bay-leaf, let it stew gently for ½ hour; -then take it out, put it on a dish, and -keep hot. Strain the liquor, and thicken -it with butter and flour kneaded together, -and stew for 5 minutes. If not -perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a -tammy, add a very little cayenne, and -pour over the fish. Garnish with balls of -veal forcemeat. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than -½ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from October to June.</p> - - -<h3>TENDRONS DE VEAU, Stewed -(an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The gristles from 2 -breasts of veal, white stock, 1 faggot of -savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, -4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of -lemon-peel. <i>Mode.</i>—The <i>tendrons</i> or -gristles, which are found round the front -of a breast of veal, are now very frequently -served as an entrée, and when -well dressed, make a nice and favourite -dish. Detach the gristles from the bone, -and cut them neatly out, so as not to -spoil the joint for roasting or stewing. -Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient -stock to cover them; add the herbs, -mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon, -and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 -hours. They should be stewed until a -fork will enter the meat easily. Take -them up, drain them, strain the gravy, -boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze -the meat. Dish the <i>tendrons</i> in a circle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[340]</a></span> -with croûtons fried of a nice colour -placed between each; and put mushroom -sauce, or a purée of green peas or tomatoes, -in the middle. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 1 entrée. <i>Seasonable.</i>—With -peas, from June to August.</p> - - -<h3>TENDRONS DE VEAU (an -Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The gristles from 2 -breasts of veal, white stock, 1 faggot of -savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, -4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of -lemon-peel, egg and bread-crumbs, 2 -tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, -salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls -of sherry, the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls -of cream. <i>Mode.</i>—After removing -the gristles from a breast of veal, -stew them for 4 hours, as in the preceding -recipe, with stock, herbs, mace, -cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. -When perfectly tender, lift them out and -remove any bones or hard parts remaining. -Put them between two dishes, with -a weight on the top, and when cold, cut -them into slices. Brush these over with -egg, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, and fry -a pale brown. Take ½ pint of the gravy -they were boiled in, add 2 tablespoonfuls -of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of -salt and pepper, the sherry, and the yolk -of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls -of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire -until it thickens; when it is on the -<i>point of boiling</i>, dish the tendrons in a -circle, and pour the sauce in the middle. -Tendrons are dressed in a variety of -ways,—with sauce à l’Espagnole, vegetables -of all kinds: when they are served -with a purée, they should always be -glazed. <i>Time.</i>—4½ hours. <i>Average cost.</i>—Usually -bought with breast of veal. -<i>Sufficient</i> for an entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - - -<h3>TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE -(an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Half a calf’s head, or -the remains of a cold boiled one; rather -more than 1 pint of good white stock, 1 -glass of sherry or Madeira, cayenne and -salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons -(when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 -gherkins, 8 quenelles, or forcemeat balls, -12 crayfish, 12 croûtons. <i>Mode.</i>—Half -a calf’s head is sufficient to make a good -entrée, and if there are any remains of a -cold one left from the preceding day, it -will answer very well for this dish. After -boiling the head until tender, remove -the bones, and cut the meat into neat -pieces; put the stock into a stewpan, -add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and -cayenne; fry the mushrooms in butter -for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the -gravy. Boil this quickly until somewhat -reduced; then put in the yolks of the -hard-boiled eggs <i>whole</i>, and the whites -cut in small pieces, and the gherkins -chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, -add these, with the slices of -head, to the other ingredients, and let the -whole get thoroughly hot, <i>without boiling</i>. -Arrange the pieces of head as high in -the centre of the dish as possible; pour -over them the ragoût, and garnish with -the crayfish and croûtons placed alternately. -A little of the gravy should -also be served in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—About -½ hour to reduce the stock. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the calf’s head, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>TIPSY CAKE.</h3> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 193px;"> -<img src="images/illus-340.jpg" width="193" height="233" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">TIPSY CAKE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 moulded sponge or -Savoy cake, sufficient sweet wine or -sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of -brandy, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 pint -of rich custard. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure a cake -that is three or four days old,—either -sponge, Savoy, or rice answering for the -purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottom -of the cake level, to make it stand firm -in the dish; make a small hole in the -centre, and pour -in and over the -cake sufficient -sweet wine or -sherry, mixed with -the above proportion -of brandy, to -soak it nicely. -When the cake -is well soaked, -blanch and cut -the almonds into -strips, stick them -all over the cake, -and pour round it -a good custard, made by our recipe, -allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint -of milk. The cakes are sometimes -crumbled and soaked, and a whipped -cream heaped over them, the same as -for trifles. <i>Time.</i>—About 2 hours to soak -the cake. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 dish. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[341]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>TIPSY CAKE, an easy way of -making.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 stale small sponge-cakes, -raisin wine, ½ lb. of jam, 1 pint of -custard (<i>see</i> <a href="#CUSTARDS_Boiled">Custard</a>). <i>Mode.</i>—Soak the -sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on -this account they should be cheaper), in -a little raisin wine; arrange them on a -deep glass dish in four layers, putting a -layer of jam between each, and pour -round them a pint of custard, made by -recipe, decorating the top with cut preserved-fruit. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours to soak the -cakes. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 dish. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of flour, 1 pint of -milk, 3 eggs, butter, a few slices of cold -mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 kidneys. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make a smooth batter of -flour, milk, and eggs in the above proportion; -butter a baking-dish, and pour -in the batter. Into this place a few -slices of cold mutton, previously well -seasoned, and the kidneys, which should -be cut into rather small pieces; bake -about 1 hour, or rather longer, and send -it to table in the dish it was baked in. -Oysters or mushrooms may be substituted -for the kidneys, and will be found exceedingly -good. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more -than 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of -the cold meat, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Homely -but Savoury Dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of rump-steak, -1 sheep’s kidney, pepper and salt to -taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of -milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, ½ saltspoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the -steak and kidney into convenient-sized -pieces, and put them into a pie-dish, -with a good seasoning of salt and pepper; -mix the flour with a small quantity of -milk at first, to prevent its being lumpy; -add the remainder, and the 3 eggs, which -should be well beaten; put in the salt, -stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and -pour it over the steak. Place it in a -tolerably brisk oven immediately, and -bake for 1½ hour. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of cold beef, rather -underdone, may be substituted for the -steak, and, when liked, the smallest possible -quantity of minced onion or shalot -may be added.</p> - - -<h3>TOAST, to make Dry.</h3> - -<p>To make dry toast properly, a great -deal of attention is required; much more, -indeed, than people generally suppose. -Never use new bread for making any -kind of toast, as it eats heavy, and, -besides, is very extravagant. Procure a -loaf of household bread about two days -old; cut off as many slices as may be -required, not quite ¼ inch in thickness; -trim off the crusts and ragged edges, put -the bread on a toasting-fork, and hold it -before a very clear fire. Move it backwards -and forwards until the bread is -nicely coloured; then turn it and toast -the other side, and do not place it so near -the fire that it blackens. Dry toast should -be more gradually made than buttered -toast, as its great beauty consists in its -crispness, and this cannot be attained -unless the process is slow and the bread -is allowed gradually to colour. It should -never be made long before it is wanted, -as it soon becomes tough, unless placed -on the fender in front of the fire. As -soon as each piece is ready, it should be -put into a rack, or stood upon its edges, -and sent quickly to table.</p> - - -<h3>TOAST, to make Hot Buttered.</h3> - -<p>A loaf of household bread about two -days old answers for making toast better -than cottage bread, the latter not being -a good shape, and too crusty for the purpose. -Cut as many nice even slices as -may be required, rather more than ¼ inch -in thickness, and toast them before a -very bright fire, without allowing the -bread to blacken, which spoils the appearance -and flavour of all toast. When -of a nice colour on both sides, put it on a -hot plate; divide some good butter into -small pieces, place them on the toast, set -this before the fire, and when the butter -is just beginning to melt, spread it lightly -over the toast. Trim off the crust and -ragged edges, divide each round into 4 -pieces, and send the toast quickly to -table. Some persons cut the slices of -toast across from corner to corner, so -making the pieces of a three-cornered -shape. Soyer recommends that each -slice should be cut into pieces as soon as -it is buttered, and when all are ready,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[342]</a></span> -that they should be piled lightly on the -dish they are intended to be served on. -He says that by cutting through 4 or 5 -slices at a time, all the butter is squeezed -out of the upper ones, while the bottom -one is swimming in fat liquid. It is -highly essential to use good butter for -making this dish.</p> - - -<h3>TOAST-AND-WATER.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A slice of bread, 1 quart -of boiling water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut a slice -from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is -better than anything else for the purpose), -toast it of a nice brown on every -side, but <i>do not allow it to burn or blacken</i>. -Put it into a jug, pour the boiling water -over it, cover it closely, and let it remain -until cold. When strained, it will be -ready for use. Toast-and-water should -always be made a short time before it is -required, to enable it to get cold: if -drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is -an exceedingly disagreeable beverage. -If, as is sometimes the case, this drink is -wanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread -into a jug, and only just cover it with the -boiling water; when this is cool, cold water -may be added in the proportion required, -the toast-and-water strained; it will then -be ready for use, and is more expeditiously -prepared than by the above method.</p> - - -<h3>TOAST SANDWICHES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Thin cold toast, thin -slices of bread-and-butter, pepper and -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Place a very thin -piece of cold toast between 2 slices of -thin bread-and-butter in the form of a -sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepper -and salt. This sandwich may be varied -by adding a little pulled meat, or very -fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and -in any of these forms will be found very -tempting to the appetite of an invalid.</p> - - -<h3>TOFFEE, Everton.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of powdered loaf -sugar, 1 teacupful of water, ¼ lb. of -butter, 6 drops of essence of lemon. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the water and sugar into a -brass pan, and beat the butter to a cream. -When the sugar is dissolved, add the -butter, and keep stirring the mixture -over the fire until it sets, when a little is -poured on to a buttered dish; and just -before the toffee is done, add the essence -of lemon. Butter a dish or tin, pour on -it the mixture, and when cool, it will -easily separate from the dish. Butter-Scotch, -an excellent thing for coughs, -is made with brown, instead of white -sugar, omitting the water, and flavoured -with ½ oz. of powdered ginger. It is -made in the same manner as toffee. -<i>Time.</i>—18 to 35 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to make a lb. of toffee.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATO SAUCE for Keeping -(Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every quart of tomato-pulp -allow 1 pint of cayenne vinegar, -¾ oz. of shalots, ¾ oz. of garlic, peeled -and cut in slices; salt to taste. To every -six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of soy, 1 pint -of anchovy-sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Gather the -tomatoes quite ripe; bake them in a -slow oven till tender; rub them through -a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add -cayenne vinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, -in the above proportion; boil the whole -together till the garlic and shalots are -quite soft; then rub it through a sieve, -put it again into a saucepan, and, to -every six quarts of the liquor, add 1 pint -of soy and the same quantity of anchovy-sauce, -and boil altogether for about 20 -minutes; bottle off for use, and carefully -seal or resin the corks. This will keep -good for 2 or 3 years, but will be fit for -use in a week. A useful and less expensive -sauce may be made by omitting the -anchovy and soy. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 1 -hour. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this from the -middle of September to the end of October.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATO SAUCE for Keeping -(Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 dozen tomatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls -of the best powdered ginger, -1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic -chopped fine, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, -1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a -small quantity of cayenne may be substituted -for this). <i>Mode.</i>—Choose ripe -tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and -stand them in a cool oven until quite -tender; when cold, take the skins and -stalks from them, mix the pulp with the -liquor which is in the jar, but do not -strain it; add all the other ingredients, -mix well together, and put it into well-sealed -bottles. Stored away in a cool, -dry place, it will keep good for years. -It is ready for use as soon as made, but -the flavour is better after a week or two. -Should it not appear to keep, turn it -out, and boil it up with a little additional<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[343]</a></span> -ginger and cayenne. For immediate use, -the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed -bottle with a little of the different -ingredients, and they will be found -very nice for hashes or stews. <i>Time.</i>—4 -or 5 hours in a <i>cool</i> oven. <i>Seasonable</i> -from the middle of September to the end -of October.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATO SAUCE for Keeping -(Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 dozen tomatoes; to -every pound of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint -of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of -shalot, 2 oz. of salt, 1 large green capsicum, -½ teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickled -gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of -common vinegar, and the juice of 6 lemons. -<i>Mode.</i>—Choose the tomatoes -when quite ripe and red; put them in a -jar with a cover to it, and bake them till -tender. The better way is to put them -in the oven overnight, when it will not -be too hot, and examine them in the -morning to see if they are tender. Do -not allow them to remain in the oven -long enough to break them; but they -should be sufficiently soft to skin nicely -and rub through the sieve. Measure the -pulp, and to each pound of pulp add the -above proportion of vinegar and other -ingredients, taking care to chop very fine -the garlic, shalot, capsicum, onion, and -gherkins. Boil the whole together till -everything is tender; then again rub it -through a sieve, and add the lemon-juice. -Now boil the whole again till it becomes -as thick as cream, and keep continually -stirring; bottle it when quite cold, cork -well, and seal the corks. If the flavour -of garlic and shalot is very much disliked, -diminish the quantities. <i>Time.</i>—Bake -the tomatoes in a <i>cool</i> oven all night. -<i>Seasonable</i> from the middle of September -to the end of October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A quantity of liquor will flow -from the tomatoes, which must be put -through the sieve with the rest. Keep it -well stirred whilst on the fire, and use a -wooden spoon.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATO SAUCE, Hot, to serve -with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, -1 clove, 1 blade of mace, salt and cayenne -to taste, ¼ pint of gravy or stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the -juice and seeds out; put them in a stewpan -with all the ingredients, and let them -simmer <i>gently</i> until the tomatoes are -tender enough to pulp; rub the whole -through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, -and serve. The shalots and spices may -be omitted when their flavour is objected -to. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour, or rather more, to -simmer the tomatoes. <i>Average cost</i>, for -this quantity, 1<i>s.</i> <i>In full season</i> in September -and October.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATOES, Baked (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper -and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, bread-crumbs. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take off the stalks -from the tomatoes; cut them into thick -slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; -add a plentiful seasoning of pepper -and salt, and butter in the above proportion; -cover the whole with bread-crumbs; -drop over these a little clarified -butter; bake in a moderate oven from -20 minutes to ½ hour, and serve very hot. -This vegetable dressed as above, is an -exceedingly nice accompaniment to all -kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead -of being cut in slices, may be baked -whole; but they will take rather longer -time to cook. <i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to ½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 9<i>d.</i> -per basket. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in August, September, and -October; but may be had, forced, much -earlier.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATOES, Baked (another -Mode).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Some bread-crumbs, a -little butter, onion, cayenne, and salt. -<i>Mode.</i>—Bake the tomatoes whole, then -scoop out a small hole at the top; fry -the bread-crumbs, onion, &c., and fill the -holes with this as high up as possible; -then brown the tomatoes with a salamander, -or in an oven, and take care that -the skin does not break.</p> - - -<h3>TOMATOES, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 tomatoes, pepper and -salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls -of vinegar. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice the -tomatoes into a <i>lined</i> saucepan; season -them with pepper and salt, and place -small pieces of butter on them. Cover -the lid down closely, and stew from 20 to -25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are -perfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir -two or three times, and serve with any -kind of roast meat, with which they will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[344]</a></span> -be found a delicious accompaniment. -<i>Time.</i>—20 to 25 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, -in full season, 9<i>d.</i> per basket. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -August to October; but may be had, -forced, much earlier.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 208px;"> -<img src="images/illus-344.jpg" width="208" height="47" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">STEWED TOMATOES.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>TOMATOES, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 tomatoes, about ½ pint -of good gravy, thickening of butter and -flour, cayenne and salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -out the stalks of the tomatoes; -put them into a wide stewpan, pour over -them the above proportion of good brown -gravy, and stew gently until they are -tender, occasionally <i>carefully</i> turning -them, that they may be equally done. -Thicken the gravy with a little butter -and flour worked together on a plate; -let it just boil up after the thickening is -added, and serve. If it be at hand, -these should be served on a silver or -plated vegetable-dish. <i>Time.</i>—20 to 25 -minutes, very gentle stewing. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 9<i>d.</i> per basket. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -in August, September, and October; -but may be had, forced, much earlier.</p> - - -<h3>TONGUE, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 tongue, a bunch of savoury -herbs, water. <i>Mode.</i>—In choosing -a tongue, ascertain how long it has been -dried or pickled, and select one with a -smooth skin, which denotes its being -young and tender. If a dried one, and -rather hard, soak it at least for 12 hours -previous to cooking it; if, however, it is -fresh from the pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be -sufficient for it to remain in soak. Put -the tongue into a stewpan with plenty of -cold water and a bunch of savoury herbs; -let it gradually come to a boil, skim well, -and simmer very gently until tender. -Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts -of cauliflowers or Brussels sprouts, and -serve. Boiled tongue is frequently sent -to table with boiled poultry, instead of -ham, and is, by many persons, preferred. -If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it down to -a piece of board by sticking a fork through -the root, and another through the top, to -straighten it. When cold, glaze it, and -put a paper ruche round the root, and -garnish with tufts of parsley. <i>Time.</i>—A -large smoked tongue, 4 to 4½ hours; a -small one, 2½ to 3 hours. A large unsmoked -tongue, 3 to 3½ hours; a small -one, 2 to 2½ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, for a -moderate-sized tongue, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TONGUES, to Cure.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For a tongue of 7 lbs., -1 oz. of saltpetre, ½ oz. of black pepper, -4 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of juniper berries, -6 oz. of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub the above -ingredients well into the tongue, and let -it remain in the pickle for 10 days or a -fortnight; then drain it, tie it up in -brown paper, and have it smoked for -about 20 days over a wood fire; or it -may be boiled out of this pickle. <i>Time.</i>—From -10 to 14 days to remain in the -pickle; to be smoked 24 days. <i>Average -cost</i>, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—If not wanted immediately, the -tongue will keep 3 or 4 weeks without -being too salt; then it must not be -rubbed, but only turned in the pickle.</p> - - -<h3>TONGUES, to Cure.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—9 lbs. of salt, 8 oz. of -sugar, 9 oz. of powdered saltpetre. <i>Mode.</i>—Rub -the above ingredients well into -the tongues, and keep them in this -curing mixture for 2 months, turning -them every day. Drain them from the -pickle, cover with brown paper, and have -them smoked for about 3 weeks. <i>Time.</i>—The -tongues to remain in pickle 2 -months; to be smoked 3 weeks. <i>Sufficient.</i>—The -above quantity of brine sufficient -for 12 tongues, of 5 lbs. each. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TONGUE, to Pickle and Dress a, -to Eat Cold.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of salt, 2 oz. of bay-salt, -1 oz. of saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse -sugar; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste; -butter, common crust of flour and water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Lay the tongue for a fortnight in -the above pickle, turn it every day, and -be particular that the spices are well -pounded; put it into a small pan just -large enough to hold it, place some pieces -of butter on it, and cover with a common -crust. Bake in a slow oven until so -tender that a straw would penetrate it;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[345]</a></span> -take off the skin, fasten it down to a -piece of board by running a fork through -the root, and another through the tip, at -the same time straightening it and putting -it into shape. When cold, glaze it, -put a paper ruche round the root, which -is generally very unsightly, and garnish -with tufts of parsley. <i>Time.</i>—From 3 -to 4 hours in a slow oven, according to -size. <i>Average cost</i>, for a medium-sized -uncured tongue, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>TREACLE PUDDING, Rolled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of suet crust, ¼ lb. -of treacle, ½ teaspoonful of grated ginger. -<i>Mode.</i>—Make, with 1 lb. of flour, a suet -crust by our given recipe, roll it out to -the thickness of ½ inch, and spread the -treacle equally over it, leaving a small -margin where the paste joins; close the -ends securely, tie the pudding in a -floured cloth, plunge it into boiling -water, and boil for 2 hours. We have -inserted this pudding, being economical, -and a favourite one with children; it is, -of course, only suitable for a nursery, or -very plain family dinner. Made with a -lard instead of a suet crust, it would be -very nice baked, and would be sufficiently -done in from 1½ to 2 hours. -<i>Time.</i>—Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked -pudding, 1½ to 2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TRIFLE, to make a.</h3> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 203px;"> -<img src="images/illus-345.jpg" width="203" height="231" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">TRIFLE.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—For the whip, 1 pint of -cream, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the -white of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry -or raisin wine. For the trifle, 1 pint of -custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of -milk; 6 small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of -sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen -ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the -grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of raspberry -or strawberry jam, ½ pint of sherry -or sweet wine, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy.</p> - -<p><i>Mode.</i>—The whip to lay over the top -of the trifle should be made the day before -it is required for table, as the flavour is -better, and it is much more solid than -when prepared the same day. Put into -a large bowl the pounded sugar, the -whites of the eggs, which should be -beaten to a stiff froth, a glass of sherry -or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk -these ingredients well in a cool place, -and take off the froth with a skimmer as -fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to -drain; continue the whisking till there -is sufficient of the whip, which must be -put away in a -cool place to -drain. The next -day, place the -sponge-cakes, -macaroons, and -ratafias at the -bottom of a trifle-dish; -pour over -them ½ pint of -sherry or sweet -wine, mixed with -6 tablespoonfuls -of brandy, and, -should this proportion -of wine not be found quite sufficient, -add a little more, as the cakes -should be well soaked. Over the cakes -pat the grated lemon-rind, the sweet -almonds, blanched and cut into strips, -and a layer of raspberry or strawberry -jam. Make a good custard, by recipe, -using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of -milk, and let this cool a little; then -pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip -being made the day previously, and the -trifle prepared, there remains nothing -to do now but heap the whip lightly over -the top: this should stand as high as -possible, and it may be garnished with -strips of bright currant jelly (see illustration), -crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; -the small coloured comfits are sometimes -used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, -but they are now considered rather old-fashioned. -<i>Average cost</i>, with cream at -1<i>s.</i> per pint, 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 trifle. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TRIFLE, Indian.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 quart of milk, the rind -of ½ large lemon, sugar to taste, 5 heaped -tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. of sweet -almonds, ½ pint of custard.</p> - -<p><i>Mode.</i>—Boil the milk and lemon-rind -together until the former is well flavoured; -take out the lemon-rind and stir in the -rice-flour, which should first be moistened -with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf -sugar to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently -for about 5 minutes, and keep the mixture -stirred; take it off the fire, let it -cool a <i>little</i>, and pour it into a glass dish. -When cold, cut the rice out in the form -of a star, or any other shape that may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[346]</a></span> -preferred; take out the spare rice, and -fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch -and cut the almonds into strips; stick -them over the trifle, and garnish it with -pieces of bright-coloured jelly, or preserved -fruits, or candied citron. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes -after the rice is added. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 1 trifle. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>TRIPE, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Tripe, onion sauce, milk -and water. <i>Mode.</i>—Ascertain that the -tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleaned -and dressed. Cut away the coarsest fat, -and boil it in equal proportions of milk -and water for ¾ hour. Should the tripe -be entirely undressed, more than double -that time should be allowed for it. Have -ready some onion sauce, made by our -given recipe, dish the tripe, smother it -with the sauce, and the remainder send -to table in a tureen. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour; for -undressed tripe, from 2½ to three hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Tripe may be dressed in a -variety of ways: it may be cut in pieces -and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with -mushrooms, or cut into collops, sprinkled -with minced onion and savoury herbs, -and fried a nice brown in clarified butter.</p> - - -<h3>TROUT, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 middling-sized trout, -½ onion cut in thin slices, a little parsley, -2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, -a little thyme, salt and pepper to taste, -1 pint of medium stock, 1 glass of port -wine, thickening of butter and flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the fish very clean, and -wipe it quite dry. Lay it in a stewpan, -with all the ingredients but the butter -and flour, and simmer gently for ½ -hour, or rather more, should not the fish -be quite done. Take it out, strain the -gravy, add the thickening, and stir it -over a sharp fire for 5 minutes; pour it -over the trout, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—According -to size, ½ hour or more. <i>Average -cost.</i>—Seldom bought. <i>Seasonable</i> -from May to September, and fatter from -the middle to the end of August than at -any other time. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -Trout may be served with anchovy or -caper sauce, baked in buttered paper, or -fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed à -la Genévése is extremely delicate; for -this proceed the same as with salmon.</p> - - -<h3>TRUFFLES, to Dress, with Champagne.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—12 fine black truffles, a -few slices of fat bacon, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, -2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, -including parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 -blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of -champagne, ½ pint of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Carefully -select the truffles, reject those -that have a musty smell, and wash them -well with a brush, in cold water only, -until perfectly clean. Put the bacon -into a stewpan, with the truffles and the -remaining ingredients; simmer these -gently for an hour, and let the whole cool -in the stewpan. When to be served, re-warm -them, and drain them on a clean -cloth; then arrange them on a delicately -white napkin, that it may contrast as -strongly as possible with the truffles, and -serve. The trimmings of truffles are -used to flavour gravies, stock, sauces, -&c.; and are an excellent addition to -ragoûts, made dishes of fowl, &c. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. -<i>Average cost.</i>—Not often -bought in this country. <i>Seasonable</i> from -November to March.</p> - - -<h3>TRUFFLES A L’ITALIENNE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful -of minced parsley, 1 minced shalot, -salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, -2 tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy, -the juice of ½ lemon, cayenne to taste. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the truffles and cut them -into slices about the size of a penny-piece; -put them into a frying-pan, with -the parsley, shalot, salt, pepper, and 1 -oz. of butter; stir them over the fire, -that they may all be equally done, which -will be in about 10 minutes, and drain off -some of the butter; then add a little -more fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of -good gravy, the juice of ½ lemon, and a -little cayenne; stir over the fire until the -whole is on the point of boiling, when -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost.</i>—Not often bought in this -country. <i>Seasonable</i> from November to -March.</p> - - -<h3>TRUFFLES, Italian Mode of -Dressing.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 truffles, ¼ pint of -salad-oil, pepper and salt to taste, 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[347]</a></span> -tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very -little finely minced garlic, 2 blades of -pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. -<i>Mode.</i>—After cleansing and brushing -the truffles, cut them into thin slices, -and put them in a baking-dish, on a -seasoning of oil, pepper, salt, parsley, -garlic, and mace in the above proportion. -Bake them for nearly an hour, and, just -before serving, add the lemon-juice, and -send them to table very hot. <i>Time.</i>—Nearly -1 hour. <i>Average cost.</i>—Not often -bought in this country. <i>Seasonable</i> from -November to March.</p> - - -<h3>TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Truffles, buttered paper. -<i>Mode.</i>—Select some fine truffles; cleanse -them, by washing them in several waters -with a brush, until not a particle of sand -or grit remains on them; wrap each -truffle in buttered paper, and bake in -a hot oven for quite an hour; take off the -paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them -in a hot napkin. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour. <i>Average -cost.</i>—Not often bought in this country. -<i>Seasonable</i> from November to March.</p> - - -<h3>TURBOT.</h3> - -<p>In choosing turbot see that it is thick, -and of a yellowish white; for if of a -bluish tint, it is not good. The turbot-kettle, -as will be seen by our cut, is made -differently from ordinary fish kettles, it -being less deep, whilst it is wider, and -more pointed at the sides; thus exactly -answering to the shape of the fish which -it is intended should be boiled in it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 289px;"> -<img src="images/illus-347.jpg" width="289" height="108" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">TURBOT-KETTLE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>TURBOT, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 oz. of salt to each gallon -of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose a middling-sized -turbot; for they are invariably the -most valuable: if very large, the meat -will be tough and thready. Three or -four hours before dressing, soak the fish -in salt and water to take off the slime; -then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a -knife make an incision down the middle -of the back, to prevent the skin of the -belly from cracking. Rub it over with -lemon, and be particular not to cut off -the fins. Lay the fish in a very clean -turbot-kettle, with sufficient cold water -to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. -Let it gradually come to a boil, -and skim very carefully; keep it gently -simmering, and on no account let it boil -fast, as the fish would have a very -unsightly appearance. When the meat -separates easily from the bone, it is -done; then take it out, let it drain well, -and dish it on a hot napkin. Rub a little -lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle -it over the fish, and garnish with tufts of -parsley and cut lemon. Lobster or shrimp -sauce, and plain melted butter, should be -sent to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—After -the water boils, about ½ hour for a -large turbot; middling size, about 20 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>,—large turbot, -from 10<i>s.</i> to 12<i>s.</i>; middling size, from -12<i>s.</i> to 15<i>s.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time. -<i>Sufficient</i>, 1 middling-sized turbot for -8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>TURBOT, to Help.</h3> - -<p>First run the fish-slice down the thickest -part of the fish lengthwise, quite -through to the bone, and then cut handsome -and regular slices across the fish -until all the meat on the upper side -is helped. When the carver has removed -all the meat from the upper side of the -fish, the backbone should be raised, put -on one side of the dish, and the under -side helped as the upper.</p> - - -<h3>TURBOT À LA CREME.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. of butter, 4 -tablespoonfuls of cream; salt, cayenne, -and pounded mace to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Clear -away all skin and bone from the flesh of -the turbot, which should be done when -it comes from table, as it causes less -waste when trimmed hot. Cut the flesh -into nice square pieces, as equally as -possible; put into a stewpan the butter, -let it melt, and add the cream and -seasoning; let it just simmer for one -minute, but not boil. Lay in the fish to -warm, and serve it garnished with -croûtons or a paste border. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The remains of cold salmon may -be dressed in this way, and the above -mixture may be served in a <i>vol-au-vent</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[348]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>TURBOT, Baked Fillets of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -turbot, lobster sauce left from the preceding -day, egg, and bread-crumbs; -cayenne and salt to taste; minced parsley, -nutmeg, lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—After -having cleared the fish from all skin and -bone, divide it into square pieces of an -equal size; brush them over with egg, -sprinkle with bread-crumbs mixed with a -little minced parsley and seasoning. Lay -the fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient -butter to baste with. Bake for ¼ hour, -and do not forget to keep them well -moistened with the butter. Put a little -lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the -cold lobster sauce; make it hot, and pour -over the fish, which must be well drained -from the butter. Garnish with parsley -and cut lemon. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ -hour. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Cold turbot thus warmed in the -remains of lobster sauce will be found -much nicer than putting the fish again -in water.</p> - - -<h3>TURBOT A L’ITALIENNE, -Fillets of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -turbot, Italian sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Clear -the fish carefully from the bone, and -take away all skin, which gives an unpleasant -flavour to the sauce. Make the -sauce hot, lay in the fish to warm -through, but do not let it boil. Garnish -with croûtons. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year.</p> - - -<h3>TURBOT, or other Large Fish, -Garnish for.</h3> - -<p>Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it -into small pyramids with flat tops, and -on the top of each pyramid put rather -more than a tablespoonful of white of -egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this, -sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine -raspings of a dark colour. Arrange -these on the napkin round the fish, one -green and one brown alternately.</p> - - -<h3>TURBOT AU GRATIN.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Remains of cold turbot, -béchamel (<i>see</i> <a href="#SAUCES">Sauces</a>), bread-crumbs, -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the flesh of the -turbot into small dice, carefully freeing -it from all skin and bone. Put them -into a stewpan, and moisten with 4 or 5 -tablespoonfuls of béchamel. Let it get -thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to -boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, -cover with finely-grated bread-crumbs, -and place small pieces of butter over -the top. Brown it in the oven, or with a -salamander. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, ½ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>TURKEY, Boiled.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 264px;"> -<img src="images/illus-348.jpg" width="264" height="115" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">BOILED TURKEY.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Turkey; forcemeat. -<i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Hen turkeys are -preferable for boiling, on account of their -whiteness and tenderness, and one of -moderate size should be selected, as a -large one is not suitable for this mode of -cooking. They should not be dressed -until they have been killed 3 or 4 days, -as they will neither look white, nor will -they be tender. Pluck the bird, carefully -draw, and singe it with a piece -of white paper; wash it inside and out, -and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. -Cut off the head and neck, draw the -strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut -off the legs at the first joint; draw the -legs into the body, fill the breast with -forcemeat; run a skewer through the -wing and the middle joint, of the leg, -quite into the leg and wing on the opposite -side; break the breastbone, and -make the bird look as round and as compact -as possible. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the turkey -into sufficient <i>hot</i> water to cover it; let it -come to a boil, then carefully remove all -the scum: if this is attended to, there is -no occasion to boil the bird in a floured -cloth; but it should be well covered with -the water. Let it simmer very gently for -about 1½ hour to 1¾ hour, according to the -size, and serve with either white, celery, -oyster,or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter, -a little of which should be poured -over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, -tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany -this dish; and when oyster sauce -is served, the turkey should be stuffed -with oyster forcemeat. <i>Time.</i>—A small -turkey, 1½ hour; a large one, 1¾ hour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[349]</a></span> -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each, but -more expensive at Christmas, on account -of the great demand. <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or -8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from December to -February.</p> - - -<h3>TURKEY, Croquettes of (Cold -Meat Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -turkey; to every ½ lb. of meat allow 2 oz. -of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, -1 tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of 2 -eggs, egg and bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—The -smaller pieces, that will not do for a -fricassée or hash, answer very well for -this dish. Mince the meat finely with -ham or bacon in the above proportion; -make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, -well seasoning it; mince the shalots, put -them into a stewpan with the butter, add -the flour; mix well, then put in the -mince, and about ½ pint of the gravy -made from the bones. (The proportion -of the butter must be increased or diminished -according to the quantity of -mince.) When just boiled, add the yolks -of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool, -and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover -the croquettes with egg and bread-crumbs, -and fry them a delicate brown. -Put small pieces of parsley-stems for -stalks, and serve with rolled bacon cut -very thin. <i>Time.</i>—8 minutes to fry the -croquettes. <i>Seasonable</i> from December -to February.</p> - - -<h3>TURKEY, Fricasseed (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -or boiled turkey; a strip of lemon-peel, -a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper -and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 4 -tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an -egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut some nice slices from -the remains of a cold turkey, and put the -bones and trimmings into a stewpan, -with the lemon-peel, herbs, onion, pepper, -salt, and the water; stew for an -hour, strain the gravy, and lay in the -pieces of turkey. When warm through, -add the cream and the yolk of an egg; -stir it well round, and, when getting -thick, take out the pieces, lay them on a -hot dish, and pour the sauce over. -Garnish the fricassée with sippets of -toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, -cut into small pieces, may be put into -the sauce; if the former, it must be -boiled first. <i>Time.</i>—1 hour to make the -gravy. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the -cold turkey, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from December -to February.</p> - - -<h3>TURKEY, Hashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -turkey, 1 onion, pepper and salt to taste, -rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, -1 turnip, 1 blade of mace, a bunch -of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of -mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of -port wine, thickening of butter and -flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the turkey into neat -joints; the best pieces reserve for the -hash, the inferior joints and trimmings -put into a stewpan with an onion cut in -slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, -mace, herbs, and water in the above -proportion; simmer these for an hour, -then strain the gravy, thicken it with -butter and flour, flavour with ketchup -and port wine, and lay in the pieces of -turkey to warm through; if there is any -stuffing left, put that in also, as it so -much improves the flavour of the gravy. -When it boils, serve, and garnish the -dish with sippets of toasted bread. -<i>Time.</i>—1 hour to make the gravy. <i>Seasonable</i> -from December to February.</p> - - -<h3>TURKEY, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Turkey; forcemeat. -<i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Choose cock -turkeys by their short spurs and black -legs, in which case they are young; if -the spurs are long, and the legs pale and -rough, they are old. If the bird has -been long killed, the eyes will appear -sunk and the feet very dry; but, if fresh, -the contrary will be the case. Middling-sized -fleshy turkeys are by many persons -considered superior to those of an -immense growth, as they are, generally -speaking, much more tender. They -should never be dressed the same day -they are killed; but, in cold weather, -should hang at least 8 days; if the weather -is mild, 4 or 5 days will be found -sufficient. Carefully pluck the bird, -singe it with white paper, and wipe it -thoroughly with a cloth; draw it, preserve -the liver and gizzard, and be particular -not to break the gall-bag, as no -washing will remove the bitter taste it -imparts where it once touches. Wash it -<i>inside</i> well, and wipe it thoroughly dry -with a cloth; the <i>outside</i> merely requires<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[350]</a></span> -nicely wiping, as we have just stated. -Cut off the neck close to the back, but -leave enough of the crop-skin to turn -over; break the leg-bone close below the -knee, draw out the strings from the -thighs, and flatten the breastbone to -make it look plump. Have ready a -forcemeat; fill the breast with this, and, -if a trussing-needle is used, sew the neck -over to the back; if a needle is not at -hand, a skewer will answer the purpose. -Run a skewer through the pinion and -thigh into the body to the pinion and -thigh on the other side, and press the -legs as much as possible between the -breast and the side-bones, and put the -liver under one pinion and the gizzard -under the other. Pass a string across -the back of the bird, catch it over the -points of the skewer, tie it in the centre -of the back, and be particular that the -turkey is very firmly trussed. This may -be more easily accomplished with a -needle and twine than with skewers. -<i>Mode.</i>—Fasten a sheet of buttered paper -on to the breast of the bird, put it down -to a bright fire, at some little distance <i>at -first</i> (afterwards draw it nearer), and keep -it well basted the whole of the time it is -cooking. About ¼ hour before serving, -remove the paper, dredge the turkey -lightly with flour, and put a piece of -butter into the basting-ladle; as the -butter melts, baste the bird with it. -When of a nice brown and well frothed, -serve with a tureen of good brown gravy -and one of bread sauce. Fried sausages -are a favourite addition to roast turkey; -they make a pretty garnish, besides -adding very much to the flavour. -When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat -balls should be placed round the -dish as a garnish. Turkey may also be -stuffed with sausage-meat, and a chestnut -forcemeat with the chestnut sauce -is, by many persons, very much esteemed -as an accompaniment to this favourite -dish. <i>Time.</i>—Small turkey, 1½ hour; -moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs., 2 -hours; large turkey, 2½ hours, or longer. -<i>Average cost</i>, from 10<i>s.</i> to 12<i>s.</i>, but expensive -at Christmas, on account of the -great demand. <i>Sufficient.</i>—A moderate-sized -turkey for 7 or 8 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from December to February.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 248px;"> -<img src="images/illus-350a.jpg" width="248" height="110" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST TURKEY.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>TURKEY, Roast.</h3> - -<p>A noble dish is a turkey, roast or -boiled. A Christmas dinner, with the -middle-classes of this empire, would -scarcely be a Christmas dinner without -its turkey; and we can hardly imagine -an object of greater envy than is presented -by a respected portly pater-familias -carving, at the season devoted to -good cheer and genial charity, his own -fat turkey, and carving it well. The -only art consists, as in the carving of a -goose, in getting from the breast as many -fine slices as possible; and all must have -remarked the very great difference in -the large number of people whom a good -carver will find slices for, and the comparatively -few that a bad carver will -succeed in serving. As we have stated -in both the carving of a duck and goose, -the carver should commence cutting -slices to the wing, from 2 to 3, and then -proceed upwards towards the ridge of -the breastbone: this is not the usual -plan, but, in practice, will be found the -best. The breast is the only part which -is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs -being very seldom cut off and eaten at -table: they are usually removed to the -kitchen, where they are taken off, as here -marked, to appear only in a form which -seems to have a special attraction at a -bachelor’s supper-table,—we mean devilled: -served in this way, they are especially -liked and relished. A boiled turkey -is carved in the same manner as -when roasted.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 238px;"> -<img src="images/illus-350b.jpg" width="238" height="100" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST TURKEY.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>TURKEY POULTS, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Turkey poult; butter. -<i>Choosing and Trussing.</i>—Choose a plump -bird, and truss it in the following manner:—After -it has been carefully plucked, -drawn, and singed, skin the neck, and -fasten the head under the wing; turn the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[351]</a></span> -legs at the first joint, and bring the feet -close to the thighs, as a woodcock should -be trussed, <i>and do not stuff it</i>. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -it down to a bright fire, keep it well -basted, and at first place a piece of paper -on the breast to prevent its taking too -much colour. About 10 minutes before -serving, dredge it lightly with flour, and -baste well; when nicely frothed, send it -to table immediately, with a little gravy -in the dish, and some in a tureen. If at -hand, a few water-cresses may be placed -round the turkey as a garnish, or it may -be larded. <i>Time.</i>—About 1 hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 7<i>s.</i> to 8<i>s.</i> each. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—In full season -from June to October.</p> - - -<h3>TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable -Dish at Christmas).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 quarts of medium stock, -the remains of a cold roast turkey, 2 oz. -of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper -to taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey’s -sauce or mushroom ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -up the turkey in small pieces, and -put it in the stock; let it simmer slowly -until the bones are quite clean. Take -the bones out, and work the soup through -a sieve; when cool, skim well. Mix the -rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a -little of the soup; add it with the seasoning -and sauce, or ketchup. Give one -boil, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—4 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> at -Christmas. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Instead of thickening this soup, -vermicelli or macaroni may be served -in it.</p> - - -<h3>TURNIP SOUP</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 oz. of butter, 9 good-sized -turnips, 4 onions, 2 quarts of stock, -seasoning to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Melt the -butter in the stewpan, but do not let -it boil; wash, drain, and slice the turnips -and onions very thin; put them in the -butter, with a teacupful of stock, and -stew very gently for an hour. Then add -the remainder of the stock, and simmer -another hour. Rub it through a tammy, -put it back into the stewpan, but do not -let it boil. Serve very hot. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to March. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—By adding a little cream, this -soup will be much improved.</p> - - -<h3>TURNIPS, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Turnips; to each ½ -gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful -of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare the -turnips, and, should they be very large, -divide them into quarters; but, unless -this is the case, let them be cooked whole. -Put them into a saucepan of boiling -water, salted in the above proportion, -and let them boil gently until tender. -Try them with a fork, and, when done, -take them up in a colander; let them -thoroughly drain, and serve. Boiled -turnips are usually sent to table with -boiled mutton, but are infinitely nicer -when mashed than served whole: unless -nice and young, they are scarcely worth -the trouble of dressing plainly as above. -<i>Time.</i>—Old turnips, ¾ to 1¼ hour; young -ones, about 18 to 20 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per bunch. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow a -bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—May be had all the year; -but in spring only useful for flavouring -gravies, &c.</p> - -<p>TURNIPS, German Mode of -Cooking.</p> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—8 large turnips, 3 oz. of -butter, pepper and salt to taste, rather -more than ½ pint of weak stock or broth, -1 tablespoonful of flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the -turnips, after having pared and cut them -into dice, and season them with pepper -and salt. Toss them over the fire for a few -minutes, then add the broth, and simmer -the whole gently till the turnips are -tender. Brown the above proportion of -flour with a little butter; add this to the -turnips, let them simmer another 5 -minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is -usually sent to table with this vegetable, -and may be cooked with the turnips -by placing it in the midst of them: the -meat would then be very delicious, as, -there being so little liquid with the turnips, -it would almost be steamed, and, -consequently, very tender. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per bunch. -<i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—May -be had all the year.</p> - - -<h3>TURNIPS, Mashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—10 or 12 large turnips; -to each ½ gallon of water allow 1 heaped -tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, -cayenne or white paper to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[352]</a></span> -the turnips, quarter them, and put -them into boiling water, salted in the -above proportion; boil them until tender; -then drain them in a colander, and -squeeze them as dry as possible by -pressing them with the back of a large -plate. When quite free from water, rub -the turnips with a wooden spoon through -the colander, and put them into a very -clean saucepan; add the butter, white -pepper, or cayenne, and, if necessary, a -little salt. Keep stirring them over the -fire until the butter is well mixed with -them, and the turnips are thoroughly -hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or -milk added after the turnips are pressed -through the colander, is an improvement -to both the colour and flavour of this -vegetable. <i>Time.</i>—From ½ to ¾ hour to -boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warm -them through. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per -bunch. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. -<i>Seasonable.</i>—May be had all the year; but -in early spring only good for flavouring -gravies.</p> - - -<h3>TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE. -(An Entremets, or to be served -with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. of -butter, ½ pint of white sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel -and cut the turnips in the shape of -pears or marbles; boil them in salt and -water, to which has been added a little -butter, until tender; then take them out, -drain, arrange them on a dish, and pour -over the white sauce made by either -of the recipes, and to which has been -added a small lump of sugar. In winter, -when other vegetables are scarce, this -will be found a very good and pretty-looking -dish: when approved, a little -mustard may be added to the sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour to boil the turnips. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per bunch. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 1 side dish. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter.</p> - - -<h3>VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, -to serve with Puddings.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 -oz. of sugar, 10 drops of essence of vanilla. -<i>Mode.</i>—Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; -stir these ingredients well together, and -flavour them with essence of vanilla, -regulating the proportion of this latter -ingredient by the strength of the essence, -the size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture -into a small jug, place this jug in a saucepan -of boiling water, and stir the sauce -<i>one way</i> until it thickens; but do not -allow it to boil, or it will instantly -curdle. Serve in a boat or tureen separately, -with plum, bread, or any kind of -dry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds -or lemon-rind may be substituted for the -vanilla, when they are more in accordance -with the flavouring of the pudding with -which the sauce is intended to be served. -<i>Time.</i>—To be stirred in the jug from 8 -to 10 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 4 or 5 persons.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Baked (Cold Meat Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ lb. of cold roast veal, a -few slices of bacon, 1 pint of bread-crumbs, -½ pint of good veal gravy, ½ -teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 blade -of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to -taste, 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince finely the -veal and bacon; add the bread-crumbs, -gravy, and seasoning, and stir these -ingredients well together. Beat up the -eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the -whole well together, put into a dish, and -bake from ¾ to 1 hour. When liked, a -little good gravy may be served in a -tureen as an accompaniment. <i>Time.</i>—from -¾ to 1 hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the cold meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 3 or -4 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Roast Breast of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Veal; a little flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the veal, well wipe it, and -dredge it with flour; put it down to a -bright fire, not too near, as it should not -be scorched. Baste it plentifully until -done; dish it, pour over the meat some -good melted butter, and send to table -with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut -lemon. <i>Time.</i>—From 1½ to 2 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March -to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Breast of, to Carve.</h3> - -<p>The carving of a breast of veal is not -dissimilar to that of a fore-quarter of -lamb, when the shoulder has been taken -off. The breast of veal consists of two -parts,—the rib-bones and the gristly -brisket. These two parts should first be -separated by sharply passing the knife -in the direction of the lines 1, 2; when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[353]</a></span> -they are entirely divided, the rib-bones -should be carved in the direction of the -lines 5 to 6; and the brisket can be -helped by cutting pieces in the direction -3 to 4. The carver should ask the -guests whether they have a preference -for the brisket or ribs; and if there be -a sweetbread served with the dish, as -it often is with roast breast of veal, -each person should receive a piece.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;"> -<img src="images/illus-353.jpg" width="291" height="106" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">BREAST OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VEAL, Stewed Breast of, and Peas.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Breast of veal, 2 oz. of -butter, a bunch of savoury herbs, including -parsley; 2 blades of pounded -mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6 young onions, -1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, ¼ teaspoonful -of pepper, 1 teaspoonful of -salt, thickening of butter and flour, -2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls -of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful of -lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom -ketchup, green peas. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the breast in half, after removing the -bone underneath, and divide the meat -into convenient-sized pieces. Put the -butter into a frying-pan, lay in the pieces -of veal, and fry until of a nice brown colour. -Now place these in a stewpan with -the herbs, mace, cloves, onions, lemon-peel, -allspice, and seasoning; pour over -them just sufficient boiling water to -cover the meat; well close the lid, and -let the whole simmer very gently for -about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy -as is required, thicken it with butter and -flour, add the remaining ingredients, -skim well, let it simmer for about -10 minutes, then pour it over the meat. -Have ready some green peas, boiled -separately; sprinkle these over the veal, -and serve. It may be garnished with -forcemeat balls, or rashers of bacon -curled and fried. Instead of cutting up -the meat, many persons prefer it dressed -whole;—in that case it should be half-roasted -before the water, &c. are put to -it. <i>Time.</i>—2¼ hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8½<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, à la Bourgeoise (Excellent).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or -neck of veal, 10 or 12 young carrots, a -bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean -bacon, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 bunch -of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to -taste, a few new potatoes, 1 pint of -green peas. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the veal into -cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings -into a stewpan with a little butter; lay -in the cutlets and fry them a nice brown -colour on both sides. Add the bacon, -carrots, onions, spice, herbs, and seasoning; -pour in about a pint of boiling -water, and stew gently for 2 hours on a -very slow fire. When done, skim off -the fat, take out the herbs, and flavour -the gravy with a little tomato sauce -and ketchup. Have ready the peas and -potatoes, boiled <i>separately</i>; put them -with the veal, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from June -to August with peas;—rather earlier -when these are omitted.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish -for a Picnic).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few slices of cold roast -veal, a few slices of cold ham, 2 hard-boiled -eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced -parsley, a little pepper, good gravy. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut off all the brown outside from -the veal, and cut the eggs into slices. -Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, -eggs, and parsley in layers, with a little -pepper between each, and when the -mould is full, get some <i>strong</i> stock, and -fill up the shape. Bake for ½ hour, and -when cold, turn it out. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Curried (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold roast -veal, 4 onions, 2 apples sliced, 1 tablespoonful -of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful -of flour, ½ pint of broth or water, -1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. <i>Mode.</i>—Slice -the onions and apples, and fry -them in a little butter; then take them -out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and -fry these of a pale brown; add the curry-powder -and flour, put in the onion, -apples, and a little broth or water, and -stew gently till quite tender; add the -lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[354]</a></span> -boiled rice. The curry may be ornamented -with pickles, capsicums, and -gherkins, arranged prettily on the top. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of the meat, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from March -to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL CUTLETS (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—About 3 lbs. of the prime -part of the leg of veal, egg and bread-crumbs, -3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury -herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a -small piece of butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the -veal cut into slices about ¾ of an inch in -thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, -level the meat with a cutlet-bat or -rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, -and brush them -over with egg. -Sprinkle with -bread-crumbs, -with which have -been mixed -minced herbs -and a seasoning -of pepper and -salt, and press -the crumbs -down. Fry them of a delicate brown in -fresh lard or butter, and be careful not -to burn them. They should be very -thoroughly done, but not dry. If the -cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered -for a few minutes at a good distance from -the fire, after they have acquired a good -colour: by this means, the meat will be -done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, -keep them hot, and make a gravy in the -pan as follows:—Dredge in a little flour, -add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, -brown it, then pour as much boiling -water as is required over it, season with -pepper and salt, add a little lemon-juice, -give one boil, and pour it over the cutlets. -They should be garnished with -slices of broiled bacon, and a few forcemeat -balls will be found a very excellent -addition to this dish. <i>Time.</i>—For cutlets -of a moderate thickness, about 12 -minutes; if very thick, allow more time. -<i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 206px;"> -<img src="images/illus-354.jpg" width="206" height="139" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">VEAL CUTLETS.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Veal cutlets may be merely -floured and fried of a nice brown: the -gravy and garnishing should be the same -as in the preceding recipe. They may -also be cut from the loin or neck, as -shown in the engraving.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL CUTLETS, Broiled, à la -Italienne (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Neck of veal, salt and -pepper to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, bread-crumbs, -½ pint of Italian sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the veal into cutlets, flatten and -trim them nicely; powder over them a -little salt and pepper; brush them over -with the yolk of an egg, dip them into -bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, -and, afterwards, in the bread-crumbs -again; boil or fry them over a clear fire, -that they may acquire a good brown -colour. Arrange them in the dish alternately -with rashers of broiled ham, and -pour the sauce (made by recipe for Italian -sauce, <a href="#Page_305">p. 305</a>) in the middle. <i>Time.</i>—10 -to 15 minutes, according to the thickness -of the cutlets. <i>Average cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL CUTLETS, à la Maintenon -(an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, -egg and bread-crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls -of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper -to taste, a little grated nutmeg. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the cutlets about ¾ inch in thickness, -flatten them, and brush them over -with the yolk of an egg; dip them into -bread-crumbs and minced herbs, season -with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, -and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered -paper. Broil them, and send them to -table with melted butter or a good gravy. -<i>Time.</i>—From 15 to 18 minutes. <i>Average -cost</i>, 10<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 -persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Fillet of, au Béchamel -(Cold Meat Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A small fillet of veal, 1 -pint of béchamel sauce, a few bread-crumbs, -clarified butter. <i>Mode.</i>—A fillet -of veal that has been roasted the preceding -day will answer very well for this -dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, -leaving a good margin round, from which -to cut nice slices, and if there should be -any cracks in the veal, fill them up with -forcemeat. Mince finely the meat that -was taken out, mixing with it a little of -the forcemeat to flavour, and stir to it -sufficient béchamel to make it of a -proper consistency. Warm the veal in -the oven for about an hour, taking care -to baste it well, that it may not be dry;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[355]</a></span> -put the mince in the place where the -meat was taken out, sprinkle a few -bread-crumbs over it, and drop a little -clarified butter on the bread-crumbs; -put it into the oven for ¼ hour to brown, -and pour béchamel round the sides of -the dish. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether 1½ hour. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Roast Fillet of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Veal, forcemeat, melted -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the fillet cut according -to the size required; take out -the bone, and after raising the skin from -the meat, put under the flap a nice forcemeat. -Prepare sufficient of this, as there -should be some left to eat cold, and to -season and flavour a mince if required. -Skewer and bind the veal up in a -round form; dredge well with flour, -put it down at some distance from -the fire at first, and baste continually. -About ½ hour before serving, draw -it nearer the fire, that it may acquire -more colour, as the outside should be of -a rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, -remove the skewers, which replace by a -silver one; pour over the joint some -good melted butter, and serve with -either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. -Never omit to send a cut lemon to table -with roast veal. <i>Time.</i>—A fillet of veal -weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours. <i>Average -cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 9 or -10 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 248px;"> -<img src="images/illus-355a.jpg" width="248" height="114" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FILLET OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VEAL, Fillet of.</h3> - -<p>The carving of this joint is similar to -that of a round of beef. Slices, not too -thick, in the -direction of the -line 1 to 2 are -cut; and the -only point to be -careful about is, -that the veal be -<i>evenly</i> carved. -Between the flap -and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and -a small portion of this should be served -to every guest. The persons whom the -host wishes most to honour should be -asked if they like the delicious brown -outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly -relished.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 196px;"> -<img src="images/illus-355b.jpg" width="196" height="99" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FILLET OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VEAL, Stewed Fillet of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A small fillet of veal, -forcemeat, thickening of butter and flour, -a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, -2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades -of pounded mace, ½ glass of sherry. -<i>Mode.</i>—If the whole of the leg is purchased, -take off the knuckle to stew, and -also the square end, which will serve for -cutlets or pies. Remove the bone, and -fill the space with a forcemeat. Roll and -skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers -at the bottom of a stewpan to prevent -the meat from sticking, and cover the -veal with a little weak stock. Let it -simmer very <i>gently</i> until tender, as the -more slowly veal is stewed, the better. -Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it -with lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white -pepper; give one boil, and pour it over -the meat. The skewers should be removed, -and replaced by a silver one, and -the dish garnished with slices of cut -lemon. <i>Time.</i>—A fillet of veal weighing -6 lbs., 3 hours’ very gentle stewing. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March -to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Fricandeau of (an Entrée).</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 280px;"> -<img src="images/illus-355c.jpg" width="280" height="168" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A piece of the fat side of -a leg of veal (about 3 lbs.), lardoons, -2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of -savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded -mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, -pepper to taste, a few slices of fat bacon, -1 pint of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—The veal for a -fricandeau should be of the best quality, -or it will not be good. It may be known -by the meat being white and not thready. -Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[356]</a></span> -table, then at one stroke of the knife, -cut off as much as is required, for a -fricandeau with an uneven surface never -looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp -knife make two or three slits in the -middle, that it may taste more of the -seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat -bacon, as lean gives a red colour to the -fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and -put these, with the herbs and spices, -in the <i>middle</i> of a stewpan, with a few -slices of bacon at the top: these should -form a sort of mound in the centre for -the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau -over the bacon, sprinkle over it a -little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock -to cover the bacon, &c., without touching -the veal. Let it gradually come to a -boil; then put it over a slow and equal -fire, and let it <i>simmer very</i> gently for -about 2½ hours, or longer should it be -very large. Baste it frequently with the -liquor, and a short time before serving, -put it into a brisk oven, to make the -bacon firm, which otherwise would break -when it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, -keep it hot, skim off the fat from the -liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, -with which glaze the fricandeau, and -serve with a purée of whatever vegetable -happens to be in season—spinach, sorrel, -asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c. <i>Time.</i>—2½ -hours. If very large, allow more -time. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for an entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Fricandeau of (more economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The best end of a neck -of veal (about 2½ lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, -2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, -2 blades of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little -whole white pepper, a few slices of fat -bacon. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut away the lean part -of the best end of a neck of veal with a -sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. -Put the bones in with a little water, -which will serve to moisten the fricandeau; -they should stew about 1½ hour. -Lard the veal, proceed in the same way -as in the preceding recipe, and be careful -that the gravy does not touch the -fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 -hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel, -spinach, or with a little gravy in the -dish. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for an entrée. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When the prime part of the -leg is cut off, it spoils the whole; consequently, -to use this for a fricandeau -is rather extravagant. The best end of -the neck answers the purpose nearly or -quite as well.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, to Carve a Knuckle of.</h3> - -<p>The engraving, showing the dotted -line from 1 to 2, -sufficiently indicates -the direction -which -should be given -to the knife in -carving this dish. -The best slices -are those from -the thickest part -of the knuckle, that is, outside the line -1 to 2.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 193px;"> -<img src="images/illus-356.jpg" width="193" height="129" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">KNUCKLE OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VEAL, to Ragoût a Knuckle of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Knuckle of veal, pepper -and salt to taste, flour, 1 onion, 1 head of -celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of -savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, -thickening of butter and flour, a few -young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of tomato -sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the -juice of ½ lemon. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat -from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, -season with pepper and salt, and dredge -them with flour. Fry them in a little -butter of a pale brown, and put them -into a stewpan with the bone (which -should be chopped in several places); -add the celery, herbs, mace, and carrots; -pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, -and let it simmer very gently for 2 hours -over a slow but clear fire. Take out the -slices of meat and carrots, strain and -thicken the gravy with a little butter -rolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, -give one boil, put back the meat -and carrots, let these get hot through, -and serve. When in season, a few green -peas, <i>boiled separately</i>, and added to this -dish at the moment of serving, would be -found a very agreeable addition. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> to 6<i>d.</i> per -lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Stewed Knuckle of, and -Rice.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, -2 blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful of salt, -½ lb. of rice. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the knuckle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[357]</a></span> -cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, -that it may be just large enough to be -eaten the same day it is dressed, as cold -boiled veal is not a particularly tempting -dish. Break the shank-bone, wash it -clean, and put the meat into a stewpan -with sufficient water to cover it. Let -it gradually come to a boil, put in the -salt, and remove the scum as fast as it -rises. When it has simmered gently for -about ¾ hour, add the remaining ingredients, -and stew the whole gently for -2¼ hours. Put the meat into a deep -dish, pour over it the rice, &c., and send -boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley -and butter to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—A -knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours’ -gentle stewing. <i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> to 6<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> -<img src="images/illus-357a.jpg" width="284" height="133" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">KNUCKLE OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Macaroni, instead of rice, -boiled with the veal, will be found good; -or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, -and the veal sent to table smothered -in parsley and butter.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Roast Loin of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Veal; melted butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Paper the kidney fat; roll in -and skewer the flap, which makes the -joint a good shape; dredge it well with -flour, and put it down to a bright fire. -Should the loin be very large, skewer -the kidney back for a time to roast -thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a -short time before serving, remove the -paper from the kidney, and allow it to -acquire a nice brown colour, but it should -not be burnt. Have ready some melted -butter, put it into the dripping-pan after -it is emptied of its contents, pour it over -the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish -with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls, -and send to table with it boiled bacon, -ham, pickled pork, or pig’s cheek. <i>Time.</i>—A -large loin, 3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, -9½<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 264px;"> -<img src="images/illus-357b.jpg" width="264" height="114" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">LOIN OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A piece of toast should be -placed under the kidneys when the veal -is dished.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Loin of, au Béchamel -(Cold Meat Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Loin of veal, ½ teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel, rather more -than ½ pint of béchamel or white sauce, -<i>Mode.</i>—A loin of veal which has come -from table with very little taken off, -answers well for this dish. Cut off -the meat from the inside, mince it, and -mix with it some minced lemon-peel; -put it into sufficient béchamel to warm -it through. In the mean time, wrap -the joint in buttered paper, and place it -in the oven to warm. When thoroughly -hot, dish the mince, place the loin above -it, and pour over the remainder of the -béchamel. <i>Time.</i>—1½ hour to warm the -meat in the oven. <i>Seasonable</i> from March -to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Loin of, à la Daube.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The chump end of a loin -of veal, forcemeat, a few slices of bacon, -a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of -mace, ½ teaspoonful of whole white -pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, -5 or 6 green onions. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut off -the chump from a loin of veal, and take -out the bone; fill the cavity with forcemeat, -tie it up tightly, and lay it in -a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, -and cover the veal with a few slices of -bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, -and onions, and stock or water; cover -the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and -simmer for 2 hours, shaking the stewpan -occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, -and onions; reduce the gravy, if not -already thick enough, to a glaze, with -which glaze the meat, and serve with -tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce. -<i>Time.</i>—2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per -lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 or 5 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, to Carve Loin of.</h3> - -<p>As is the case with a loin of mutton, -the careful jointing of a loin of veal is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[358]</a></span> -more than half the battle in carving -it. If the butcher be negligent in -this matter, he should be admonished; -for there is -nothing more -annoying or irritating -to an -inexperienced -carver than to -be obliged to -turn his knife -in all directions -to find the exact place where it should -be inserted in order to divide the bones. -When the jointing is properly performed, -there is little difficulty in carrying the -knife down in the direction of the line -1 to 2. To each guest should be given -a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, -which lie underneath, and are considered -great delicacies.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 210px;"> -<img src="images/illus-358.jpg" width="210" height="108" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">LOIN OF VEAL.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VEAL, Minced, with Béchamel -Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery, very -good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of a fillet of -veal, 1 pint of béchamel sauce, ½ teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat -balls. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut—but do not -<i>chop</i>—a few slices of cold roast veal as -finely as possible, sufficient to make -rather more than 1 lb., weighed after -being minced. Make the above proportion -of béchamel, by recipe; add the -lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let -the whole gradually warm through. -When it is at the point of simmering, -dish it, and garnish with forcemeat -balls and fried sippets of bread. <i>Time.</i>—To -simmer 1 minute. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the cold meat, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Minced (more economical).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold -roast fillet or loin of veal, rather more -than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, ½ teaspoonful -of minced lemon-peel, salt and -white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded -mace, 2 or 3 young carrots, a faggot of -sweet herbs, thickening of butter and -flour, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 -tablespoonfuls of cream or milk. <i>Mode.</i>—Take -about 1 lb. of veal, and should -there be any bones, dredge them with -flour, and put them into a stewpan with -the brown outside, and a few meat trimmings, -add rather more than a pint of -water, the onion cut in slices, lemon-peel, -seasoning, mace, carrots, and -herbs; simmer these well for rather -more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. -Rub a little flour into some butter; add -this to the gravy, set it on the fire, and, -when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal -finely by <i>cutting</i>, and not chopping it; -put it in the gravy; let it get warmed -through gradually; add the lemon-juice -and cream, and, when it is on the point -of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with -sippets of toasted bread and slices of -bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat -balls may also be added. If more -lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, -put a little very finely minced to the veal, -after it is warmed in the gravy. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour to make the gravy. <i>Average -cost</i>, exclusive of the cold meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Minced, and Macaroni (a -pretty side or corner dish).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of minced cold roast -veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1 tablespoonful of -gravy, pepper and salt to taste, ¼ teaspoonful -of grated nutmeg, ¼ lb. of -bread-crumbs, ¼ lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 -eggs to bind, a small piece of butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut some nice slices from a cold -fillet of veal, trim off the brown outside, -and mince the meat finely with the above -proportion of ham: should the meat be -very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. -Season highly with pepper and salt, add -the grated nutmeg and bread-crumbs, -and mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 -eggs well beaten, which should bind the -mixture and make it like forcemeat. In -the mean time, boil the macaroni in salt -and water, and drain it; butter a mould, -put some of the macaroni at the bottom -and sides of it, in whatever form is liked; -mix the remainder with the forcemeat, -fill the mould up to the top, put a plate -or small dish on it, and steam for ½ hour. -Turn it out carefully, and serve with good -gravy poured round, but not over, the -meat. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, -exclusive of the cold meat, 10<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—To make a variety, boil some -carrots and turnips separately in a little -salt and water; when done, cut them -into pieces about ⅛ inch in thickness; -butter an oval mould, and place these in -it, in white and red stripes alternately,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[359]</a></span> -at the bottom and sides. Proceed as -in the foregoing recipe, and be very -careful in turning it out of the mould.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Moulded Minced (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of cold roast veal, a -small slice of bacon, 1/3 teaspoonful of -minced lemon-peel, ½ onion chopped -fine, salt, pepper, and pounded mace to -taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, -1 egg. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the meat very -fine, after removing from it all skin and -outside pieces, and chop the bacon; -mix these well together, adding the -lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and -toast. When all the ingredients are -thoroughly incorporated, beat up an egg, -with which bind the mixture. Butter a -shape, put in the meat, and bake for ¾ -hour; turn it out of the mould carefully, -and pour round it a good brown gravy. -A sheep’s head dressed in this manner is -an economical and savoury dish. <i>Time.</i>—¾ -hour. <i>Average</i> cost, exclusive of the -meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Braised Neck of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The best end of the neck -of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.), bacon, 1 tablespoonful -of minced parsley, salt, pepper, -and grated nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, -2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not -obtainable, use the seed), ½ glass of -sherry, thickening of butter and flour, -lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace. -<i>Mode.</i>—Prepare the bacon for larding, -and roll it in minced parsley, salt, pepper, -and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put -it into a stewpan with a few slices of -lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, -and celery; and do not quite cover it -with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, -or until it is quite tender; strain off the -liquor; stir together over the fire, in a -stewpan, a little flour and butter until -brown; lay the veal in this, the upper -side to the bottom of the pan, and let -it remain till it is a nice brown colour. -Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan -as much gravy as is required, boil it -up, skim well, add the wine, pounded -mace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 -minutes, pour it over the meat, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—Rather more than 2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Roast Neck of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Veal, melted butter, -forcemeat balls. <i>Mode.</i>—Have the veal -cut from the best end of the neck; -dredge it with flour, and put it down to -a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; -dish it, pour over it some melted butter, -and garnish the dish with fried forcemeat -balls; send to table with a cut -lemon. The scrag may be boiled or -stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, -or parsley and butter. <i>Time.</i>—About -2 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> per lb. -<i>Sufficient.</i>—4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few thin slices of cold -fillet of veal, a few thin slices of bacon, -forcemeat, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls -of cream, puff-crust. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -thin slices from a fillet of veal, -place on them thin slices of bacon, and -over them a layer of forcemeat, made by -recipe, with an additional seasoning of -shalot and cayenne; roll them tightly, -and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the -gravy and cream, cover with a puff-crust, -and bake for 1 to 1½ hour: should -the pie be very large, allow 2 hours. -The pieces of rolled veal should be about -3 inches in length, and about 3 inches -round. <i>Time.</i>—Moderate-sized pie, 1 to -1½ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 -or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham, pepper -and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of -minced savoury herbs, 2 blades of -pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of -gravy. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut the cutlets into -square pieces, and season them with -pepper, salt, and pounded mace; put -them in a pie-dish with the savoury -herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of -lean bacon or ham placed at the top: -if possible, this should be previously -cooked, as undressed bacon makes the -veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour -in a little water, cover with crust, ornament -it in any way that is approved; -brush it over with the yolk of an egg, -and bake in a well-heated oven for about -1½ hour. Pour in a good gravy after -baking, which is done by removing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[360]</a></span> -top ornament, and replacing it after the -gravy is added. <i>Time.</i>—About 1½ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or -6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL AND HAM PIE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 lbs. of veal cutlets, ½ -lb. of boiled ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of -minced savoury herbs, ¼ teaspoonful of -grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded -mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of -lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 -hard-boiled eggs, ½ pint of water, nearly -½ pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust. -<i>Mode.</i>—Cut the veal into nice square -pieces, and put a layer of them at the -bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these -a portion of the herbs, spices, seasoning, -lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut -in slices; cut the ham very thin, and put -a layer of this in. Proceed in this -manner until the dish is full, so arranging -it that the ham comes at the top. Lay a -puff paste on the edge of the dish, and -pour in about ½ pint of water; cover with -crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it -over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in -a well-heated oven for 1 to 1½ hour, or -longer, should the pie be very large. -When it is taken out of the oven, pour in -at the top, through a funnel, nearly ½ pint -of strong gravy: this should be made sufficiently -good that, when cold, it may cut -in a firm jelly. This pie may be very -much enriched by adding a few mushrooms, -oysters, or sweetbreads; but it -will be found very good without any of -the last-named additions. <i>Time.</i>—1½ -hour, or longer, should the pie be very -large. <i>Average cost</i>, 3<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 5 -or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> from March to -October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Potted (for Breakfast).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every lb. of veal -allow ¼ lb. of ham, cayenne and pounded -mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter; -clarified butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince the veal -and ham together as finely as possible, -and pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, -pounded mace, and fresh butter in the -above proportion. When reduced to a -perfectly smooth paste, press it into -potting-pots, and cover with clarified -butter. If kept in a cool place, it will -remain good some days. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Ragoût of Cold (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of cold veal, -1 oz. of butter, ½ pint of gravy, thickening -of butter and flour, pepper and salt -to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 -tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 -tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful -of lemon-juice, forcemeat balls. -<i>Mode.</i>—Any part of veal will make this -dish. Cut the meat into nice-looking -pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. -of butter, and fry a light brown; add -the gravy (hot water may be substituted -for this), thicken with a little butter and -flour, and stew gently about ¼ hour; -season with pepper, salt, and pounded -mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and -lemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. -Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls -and fried rashers of bacon. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether -½ hour. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive -of cold meat, 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—The above recipe may be varied, -by adding vegetables, such as peas, -cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in -slices, a dozen or two of green gooseberries -(not seedy), all of which should -be fried a little with the meat, and then -stewed in the gravy.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few slices of cold roast -veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, 1 -tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful -of minced savoury herbs, 1 -blade of pounded mace, a very little -grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, -2 eggs well beaten, bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Mince -the veal very finely with a little -ham or bacon; add the parsley, herbs, -spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste -with an egg; form into balls or cones; -brush these over with egg, sprinkle with -bread-crumbs, and fry a rich brown. -Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the -dish with fried parsley. <i>Time.</i>—About -10 minutes to fry the rissoles. <i>Seasonable</i> -from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat -Cookery).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of a cold -fillet of veal, egg and bread-crumbs, a -few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -a few slices from a cold fillet of veal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[361]</a></span> -½ inch thick; rub them over with egg; -lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each -piece of veal; brush these with the egg, -and over this spread the forcemeat -thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg -and bread-crumb them, and fry them a -rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce -or brown gravy. <i>Time.</i>—10 to 15 minutes -to fry the rolls. <i>Seasonable</i> from -March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed -Shoulder of.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A shoulder of veal, a -few slices of ham or bacon, forcemeat, 3 -carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to -taste, a faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades -of pounded mace, water, thickening of -butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Bone the joint -by carefully detaching the meat from -the blade-bone on one side, and then on -the other, being particular not to pierce -the skin; then cut the bone from the -knuckle, and take it out. Fill the cavity -whence the bone was taken with -a forcemeat. Roll and bind the veal up -tightly; put it into a stewpan with the -carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and -mace; pour in just sufficient water to -cover it, and let it stew <i>very gently</i> for -about 5 hours. Before taking it up, try -if it is properly done by thrusting a -larding-needle in it: if it penetrates -easily, it is sufficiently cooked. Strain -and skim the gravy, thicken with butter -and flour, give one boil, and pour it -round the meat. A few young carrots -may be boiled and placed round the dish -as a garnish, and, when in season, green -peas should always be served with this -dish. <i>Time.</i>—5 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 7<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 or 9 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> from March to October.</p> - - -<h3>VEAL, Stewed with Peas, Young -Carrots, and New Potatoes.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or -neck of veal, 15 young carrots, a few -green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 -new potatoes, a bunch of savoury herbs, -pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful -of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato -sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom -ketchup. <i>Mode.</i>—Dredge the -meat with flour, and roast or bake it for -about ¾ hour: it should acquire a nice -brown colour. Put the meat into a -stewpan with the carrots, onions, potatoes, -herbs, pepper, and salt; pour over -it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and -stew gently for 2 hours. Take out the -meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, -skim off all the fat from the gravy, and -flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato -sauce, and mushroom ketchup, in the -above proportion. Have ready a pint of -green peas boiled <i>separately</i>; put these -with the meat, pour over it the gravy, -and serve. The dish may be garnished -with a few forcemeat balls. The meat, -when preferred, may be cut into chops, -and floured and fried instead of being -roasted; and any part of veal dressed in -this way will be found extremely savoury -and good. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours. -<i>Average cost</i>, 9<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 6 -or 7 persons. <i>Seasonable</i>, with peas, -from June to August.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE MARROW, Boiled.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 197px;"> -<img src="images/illus-361.jpg" width="197" height="54" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">VEGETABLE MARROW -ON TOAST.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To each ½ gallon of -water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of -salt; vegetable marrows. <i>Mode.</i>—Have -ready a saucepan of boiling water, salted -in the above proportion; put in the -marrows after peeling them, and boil -them until quite tender. Take them up -with a slice, -halve, and, -should they be -very large, quarter -them. Dish -them on toast, -and send to -table with them a tureen of molted -butter, or, in lieu of this, a small pat of -salt butter. Large vegetable marrows -may be preserved throughout the winter -by storing them in a dry place; when -wanted for use, a few slices should be -cut and boiled in the same manner as -above; but, when once begun, the marrow -must be eaten quickly, as it keeps -but a short time after it is cut. Vegetable -marrows are also very delicious -mashed: they should be boiled, then -drained, and mashed smoothly with a -wooden spoon. Heat them in a saucepan, -add a seasoning of salt and pepper, -and a small piece of butter, and dish -with a few sippets of toasted broad -placed round as a garnish. <i>Time.</i>—Young -vegetable marrows, 10 to 20 minutes; -old ones, ½ to ¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>s.</i> per dozen. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow -1 moderate-sized marrow -for each person. <i>Seasonable</i> in July,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[362]</a></span> -August, and September; but may be -preserved all the winter.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE MARROW, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—3 medium-sized vegetable -marrows, egg and bread-crumbs, -hot lard. <i>Mode.</i>—Peel, and boil the -marrows until tender in salt and water; -then drain them and cut them in quarters, -and take out the seeds. When thoroughly -drained, brush the marrows over -with egg, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs; -have ready some hot lard, fry -the marrow in this, and, when of a nice -brown, dish; sprinkle over a little salt -and pepper, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—About -½ hour to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to -fry it. <i>Average cost</i>, in full season, 1<i>s.</i> -per dozen. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 persons. -<i>Seasonable</i> in July, August, and September.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE MARROWS IN -WHITE SAUCE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 or 5 moderate-sized -marrows, ½ pint of white sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare -the marrows; cut them in halves, -and shape each half at the top in a -point, leaving -the bottom -end flat for it -to stand upright -in the -dish. Boil -the marrows -in salt and -water until tender; take them up very -carefully, and arrange them on a hot -dish. Have ready ½ pint of white -sauce; pour this over the marrows, and -serve. <i>Time.</i>—From 15 to 20 minutes -to boil the marrows. <i>Average cost</i>, in -full season, 1<i>s.</i> per dozen. <i>Sufficient</i> for -5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> in July, -August, and September.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 232px;"> -<img src="images/illus-362.jpg" width="232" height="75" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 young vegetable marrows, -or more, if very small, ½ pint of -cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 -quarts of white stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Pare and -slice the marrows, and put them in the -stock boiling. When done almost to a -mash, press them through a sieve, and -at the moment of serving, add the -boiling cream and seasoning. <i>Time.</i>—1 -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> in summer. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of -parsnip, 10 oz. of potato, cut into thin -slices; 1¼ oz. of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls -of flour, a teaspoonful of made mustard, -salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of -2 eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of -water. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the vegetables in -the water 2½ hours; stir them often, and -if the water boils away too quickly, add -more, as there should be 2 quarts of -soup when done. Mix up in a basin the -butter and flour, mustard, salt, and -pepper, with a teacupful of cold water; -stir in the soup, and boil 10 minutes. -Have ready the yolks of the eggs in the -tureen; pour on, stir well, and serve. -<i>Time.</i>—3 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Equal quantities of -onions, carrots, turnips; ¼ lb. of butter, -a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of -celery, a faggot of herbs, salt and pepper -to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered -sugar, 2 quarts of common stock or -boiling water. Allow ¾ lb. of vegetables -to 2 quarts of stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up -the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash -and drain them well, and put them in -the stewpan with the butter and powdered -sugar. Toss the whole over a -sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do not let -them brown, or you will spoil the flavour -of the soup. When done, pour the -stock or boiling water on them; add the -bread, celery, herbs, and seasoning; -stew for 3 hours; skim well and strain -it off. When ready to serve, add a -little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, -and flavour with a spoonful of Harvey’s -sauce, or a little ketchup. <i>Time.</i>—3½ -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 6<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for -8 persons.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP. -(<i>Good and Cheap, made without Meat.</i>)</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or -2 if very large; 2 carrots, 2 onions; if -obtainable, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of -celery, 1 large slice of bread, 1 small -saltspoonful of salt, ¼ saltspoonful of -ground black pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of -Harvey’s sauce, 6 quarts of water. -<i>Mode.</i>—Peel the vegetables, and cut<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[363]</a></span> -them up into small pieces; toast the -bread rather brown, and put all into -a stewpan with the water and seasoning. -Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is -reduced to a pulp, and pass it through a -sieve in the same way as pea-soup, -which it should resemble in consistence; -but it should be a dark brown colour. -Warm it up again when required; put -in the Harvey’s sauce, and, if necessary, -add to the flavouring. <i>Time.</i>—3 hours, -or rather more. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>d.</i> per -quart. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 16 persons.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—This recipe was forwarded to -the Editress by a lady in the county of -Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended.</p> - - -<h3>VEGETABLES, Cut for Soups, &c.</h3> - -<p>The annexed engraving represents a -cutter for shaping vegetables for soups, -ragoûts, stews, -&c.; carrots and -turnips being the -usual vegetables -for which this -utensil is used. -Cut the vegetables -into slices about -¼ inch in thickness, -stamp them -out with the -cutter, and boil them for a few minutes -in salt and water, until tender. Turnips -should be cut in rather thicker slices -than carrots, on account of the former -boiling more quickly to a pulp than the -latter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 181px;"> -<img src="images/illus-363a.jpg" width="181" height="145" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">VEGETABLE-CUTTER.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VENISON, Hashed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The remains of roast -venison, its own or mutton gravy, -thickening of butter and flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut -the meat from the bones in neat -slices, and, if there is sufficient of its -own gravy left, put the meat into this, -as it is preferable to any other. Should -there not be enough, put the bones and -trimmings into a stewpan, with about a -pint of mutton gravy; let them stew -gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. -Put a little flour and butter into the -stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then -add the strained gravy, and give it a -boil up; skim and strain again, and, -when a little cool, put in the slices of -venison. Place the stewpan by the side -of the fire, and, when on the point of -simmering, serve: do not allow it to -boil, or the meat will be hard. Send -red-currant jelly to table with it. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, -1½ hour. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Buck -venison, from June to Michaelmas; -doe venison, from November to the end -of January.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—A small quantity of Harvey’s -sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may be -added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients -must, however, be used very sparingly, -or they will overpower the flavour -of the venison.</p> - - -<h3>VENISON, Roast Haunch of.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 383px;"> -<img src="images/illus-363b.jpg" width="383" height="125" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Venison, coarse flour-and-water -paste, a little flour. <i>Mode.</i>—Choose -a haunch with clear, bright, and -thick fat, and the cleft of the hoof smooth -and close; the greater quantity of fat -there is, the better quality will the meat -be. As many people object to venison -when it has too much <i>haut goût</i>, ascertain -how long it has been kept, by running -a sharp skewer into the meat close -to the bone: when this is withdrawn, its -sweetness can be judged of. With care -and attention, it will keep good a fortnight, -unless the weather is very mild. -Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it -with clean cloths till not the least -damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered -ginger or pepper, as a preventive -against the fly. When required for use, -wash it in warm water, and <i>dry</i> it <i>well</i> -with a cloth; butter a sheet of white -paper, put it over the fat, lay a coarse -paste, about ½ inch in thickness, over -this, and then a sheet or two of strong -paper. Tie the whole firmly on to the -haunch with twine, and put the joint -down to a strong close fire; baste the -venison immediately, to prevent the -paper and string from burning, and continue -this operation, without intermission, -the whole of the time it is cooking. -About 20 minutes before it is done, carefully -remove the paste and paper, dredge -the joint with flour, and baste well with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[364]</a></span> -<i>butter</i> until it is nicely frothed, and of a -nice pale-brown colour; garnish the -knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper, -and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured -gravy, in a tureen, and currant -jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port, -wine, and serve that also in a tureen. -As the principal object in roasting venison -is to preserve the fat, the above is -the best mode of doing so where expense -is not objected to; but, in ordinary -cases, the paste may be dispensed with, -and a double paper placed over the roast -instead: it will not require so long -cooking without the paste. Do not -omit to send very hot plates to table, as -the venison fat so soon freezes: to be -thoroughly enjoyed by epicures, it -should be eaten on hot-water plates. -The neck and shoulder may be roasted -in the same manner. <i>Time.</i>—A large -haunch of buck venison, with the paste, -4 to 5 hours; haunch of doe venison, 3¼ -to 3¾ hours. Allow less time without -the paste. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> to 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 18 persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Buck -venison in greatest perfection -from June to Michaelmas; doe -venison from November to the end of -January.</p> - - -<h3>VENISON, to Carve Haunch of.</h3> - -<p>Here is a grand dish for a knight of -the carving-knife to exercise his skill -upon, and, what will be pleasant for -many to know, there is but little difficulty -in the performance. An incision -being made completely down to the -bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, -the gravy will then be able easily to flow; -when slices, not too thick, should be cut -along the haunch, as indicated by the -line 4 to 3; that end of the joint marked -3 having been turned towards the carver, -so that he may have a more complete -command over the joint. Although -some epicures affect to believe that some -parts of the haunch are superior to -others, yet we doubt if there is any -difference between the slices cut above -and below the line. It should be borne -in mind to serve each guest with a portion -of fat; and the most expeditious -carver will be the best carver, as, like -mutton, venison soon begins to chill, -when it loses much of its charm.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 332px;"> -<img src="images/illus-364.jpg" width="332" height="97" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">HAUNCH OF VENISON.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VENISON, Stewed.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A shoulder of venison, a -few slices of mutton fat, 2 glasses of -port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, -1½ pint of weak stock or gravy, ½ teaspoonful -of whole pepper, ½ teaspoonful -of whole allspice. <i>Mode.</i>—Hang the -venison till tender; take out the bone, -flatten the meat with a rolling-pin, and -place over it a few slices of mutton fat, -which have been previously soaked for 2 -or 3 hours in port wine; sprinkle these -with a little fine allspice and pepper, -roll the meat up, and bind and tie it -securely. Put it into a stewpan with -the bone and the above proportion of -weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, -black pepper, and port wine; cover the -lid down closely, and simmer, very -gently, from 3½ to 4 hours. When quite -tender, take off the tape, and dish the -meat; strain the gravy over it, and send -it to table with red currant jelly. Unless -the joint is very fat, the above is -the best mode of cooking it. <i>Time.</i>—3½ -to 4 hours. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> to -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per lb. <i>Sufficient</i> for 10 or 12 -persons. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Buck venison, -from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, -from November to the end of January.</p> - - -<h3>VERMICELLI PUDDING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 oz. of vermicelli, 1½ -pint of milk, ½ pint of cream, 3 oz. of -butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil -the vermicelli in the milk until it is -tender; then stir in the remaining ingredients, -omitting the cream, if not obtainable. -Flavour the mixture with grated -lemon-rind, essence of bitter almonds, -or vanilla; butter a pie-dish; line the -edges with puff-paste, put in the pudding, -and bake in a moderate oven for -about ¾ hour. <i>Time.</i>—¾ hour. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> without cream. <i>Sufficient</i> -for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> at -any time.</p> - - -<h3>VERMICELLI SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of bacon, stuck -with cloves; ½ oz. of butter, worked up -in flour; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[365]</a></span> -2 oz. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of -white stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the stock, -bacon, butter, and fowl, into the stewpan, -and stew for ¾ of an hour. Take -the vermicelli, add it to a little of the -stock, and set it on the fire, till it is -quite tender. When the soup is ready, -take out the fowl and bacon, and put -the bacon on a dish. Skim the soup as -clean as possible; pour it, with the vermicelli, -over the fowl. Cut some bread -thin, put in the soup, and serve. <i>Time.</i>—2 -hours. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of -the fowl and bacon, 10<i>d.</i> per quart. -<i>Seasonable</i> in winter. <i>Sufficient</i> for 4 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>VERMICELLI SOUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of vermicelli, 2 -quarts of clear gravy stock. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; -simmer very gently for ½ an hour, and -stir frequently. <i>Time.</i>—½ an hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> per quart. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year. <i>Sufficient</i> for 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>VOL-AU-VENT (an Entrée).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ to 1 lb. of puff-paste, -fricasseed chickens, rabbits, ragoûts, or -the remains of cold fish, flaked and -warmed in thick white sauce. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -from ¾ to 1 lb. of puff-paste, -taking care that it is very evenly rolled -out each time, to ensure its rising properly; -and if the paste is not extremely -light, and put into a good hot oven, this -cannot be accomplished, and the <i>vol-au-vent</i> -will look very badly. Roll out the -paste to the thickness of about 1½ inch, -and, with a -fluted cutter, -stamp it out -to the desired -shape, either -round or oval, -and, with the -point of a small -knife, make a -slight incision in the paste all round the -top, about an inch from the edge, which, -when baked, forms the lid. Put the -<i>vol-au-vent</i> into a good brisk oven, and -keep the door shut for a few minutes -after it is put in. Particular attention -should be paid to the heating of the -oven, for the paste <i>cannot</i> rise without a -tolerable degree of heat. When of a -nice colour, without being scorched, -withdraw it from the oven, instantly -remove the cover where it was marked, -and detach all the soft crumb from the -centre: in doing this, be careful not to -break the edges of the <i>vol-au-vent</i>; but -should they look thin in places, stop -them with small flakes of the inside -paste, stuck on with the white of an egg. -This precaution is necessary to prevent -the fricassee or ragoût from bursting the -case, and so spoiling the appearance of -the dish. Fill the <i>vol-au-vent</i> with a -rich mince, or fricassee, or ragoût, or the -remains of cold fish flaked and warmed -in a good white sauce, and do not make -them very liquid, for fear of the gravy -bursting the crust: replace the lid, and -serve. To improve the appearance of -the crust, brush it over with the yolk -of an egg <i>after</i> it has risen properly. -<i>Time.</i>—¾ hour to bake the <i>vol-au-vent</i>. -<i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of the interior, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 215px;"> -<img src="images/illus-365a.jpg" width="215" height="106" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">VOL-AU-VENT.</div> -</div> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Small <i>vol-au-vents</i> may be made -like those -shown in the -engraving, -and filled with -minced veal, -chicken, &c. -They should -be made of -the same paste as the larger ones, and -stamped out with a small fluted cutter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 224px;"> -<img src="images/illus-365b.jpg" width="224" height="96" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>VOL-AU-VENT OF FRESH -STRAWBERRIES, WITH -WHIPPED CREAM.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of puff-paste, 1 -pint of freshly-gathered strawberries, -sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped -cream. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a <i>vol-au-vent</i> case, -only not quite so large nor so high as for -a savoury one. When nearly done, -brush the paste over with the white of -an egg, then sprinkle on it some pounded -sugar, and put it back in the oven to set -the glaze. Remove the interior, or soft -crumb, and, at the moment of serving, -fill it with the strawberries, which should -be picked, and broken up with sufficient -sugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a -few spoonfuls of whipped cream on the -top and serve. <i>Time.</i>—½ hour to 40 -minutes to bake the <i>vol-au-vent</i>. <i>Average -cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 <i>vol-au-vent</i>. -<i>Seasonable</i> in June and July.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[366]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>VOL-AU-VENT, Sweet, of Plums, -Apples, or any other Fresh -Fruit.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¾ lb. of puff-paste, about -1 pint of fruit compôte. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -½ lb. of puff-paste, taking care to bake -it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up -nicely and make it look light. Have -ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup -of which must be boiled down until very -thick; fill the <i>vol-au-vent</i> with this, and -pile it high in the centre; powder a little -sugar over it, and put it back in the -oven to glaze, or use a salamander for -the purpose: the <i>vol-au-vent</i> is then -ready to serve. It may be made with -any fruit that is in season, such as -rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants, -cherries, apples, &c.; but care must be -taken not to have the syrup too thin, for -fear of its breaking through the crust. -<i>Time.</i>—½ hour to 40 minutes to bake the -<i>vol-au-vent</i>. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of -the compôte, 1<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 1 entremets.</p> - - -<h3>WAFERS, Geneva.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 eggs, 3 oz. butter, 3 oz. -flour, 3 oz. pounded sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Well -whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, -and stir to them the butter, which should -be beaten to a cream; add the flour and -sifted sugar gradually, and then mix all -well together. Butter a baking-sheet, -and drop on it a teaspoonful of the -mixture at a time, leaving a space between -each. Bake in a cool oven; watch -the pieces of paste, and, when half done, -roll them up like wafers, and put in a -small wedge of bread or piece of wood, -to keep them in shape. Return them -to the oven until crisp. Before serving, -remove the bread, put a spoonful of -preserve in the widest end, and fill up -with whipped cream. This is a very -pretty and ornamental dish for the -supper-table, and is very nice and easily -made. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether from 20 to -25 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, exclusive of -the preserve and cream, 7<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a nice-sized dish. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>WALNUT KETCHUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—100 walnuts, 1 handful -of salt, 1 quart of vinegar, ¼ oz. of mace, -¼ oz. of nutmeg, ¼ oz. of cloves, ¼ oz. of -ginger, ¼ oz. of whole black pepper, a -small piece of horseradish, 20 shalots, -¼ lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine. -<i>Mode.</i>—Procure the walnuts at the time -you can run a pin through them, -slightly bruise, and put them into a jar -with the salt and vinegar; let them stand -8 days, stirring every day; then drain -the liquor from them, and boil it, with -the above ingredients, for about ½ hour. -It may be strained or not, as preferred, -and, if required, a little more vinegar or -wine can be added, according to taste. -When bottled well, seal the corks. <i>Time.</i>—½ -hour. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this from -the beginning to the middle of July, -when walnuts are in perfection for -pickling purposes.</p> - - -<h3>WALNUT KETCHUP.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ sieve of walnut-shells, -2 quarts of water, salt, ½ lb. of shalots, -1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of -whole pepper, 1 oz. of garlic. <i>Mode.</i>—Put -the walnut-shells into a pan, with -the water, and a large quantity of salt; -let them stand for 10 days, then break -the shells up in the water, and let it -drain through a sieve, putting a heavy -weight on the top to express the juice; -place it on the fire, and remove all scum -that may arise. Now boil the liquor -with the shalots, cloves, mace, pepper, -and garlic, and let all simmer till the -shalots sink; then put the liquor into a -pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork -closely. It should stand 6 months before -using: should it ferment during that -time, it must be again boiled and skimmed. -<i>Time.</i>—About ¾ hour. <i>Seasonable</i> in -September, when the walnut-shells are -obtainable.</p> - - -<h3>WALNUTS, to have Fresh -throughout the Season.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of water -allow 1 teaspoonful of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—Place -the walnuts in the salt and water -for 24 hours at least; then take them -out, and rub them dry. Old nuts may -be freshened in this manner; or walnuts, -when first picked, may be put into -an earthen pan with salt sprinkled -amongst them, and with damped hay -placed on the top of them, and then -covered down with a lid. They must -be well wiped before they are put on -table. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Should be stored -away in September or October.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[367]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>WALNUTS, Pickled (very Good).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—100 walnuts, salt and -water. To each quart of vinegar allow -2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, -1 oz. of bruised ginger. <i>Mode.</i>—Procure -the walnuts while young; be -careful they are not woody, and prick -them well with a fork; prepare a strong -brine of salt and water (4 lbs. of salt to -each gallon of water), into which put -the walnuts, letting them remain 9 days, -and changing the brine every third day; -drain them off, put them on a dish, -place it in the sun until they become -perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3 -days; have ready dry jars, into which -place the walnuts, and do not quite fill -the jars. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover -them, for 10 minutes, with spices in the -above proportion, and pour it hot over -the walnuts, which must be quite covered -with the pickle; tie down with -bladder, and keep in a dry place. -They will be fit for use in a month, and -will keep good 2 or 3 years. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make this -from the beginning to the middle of July, -before the walnuts harden.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—When liked, a few shalots may -be added to the vinegar, and boiled -with it.</p> - - -<h3>WATER SOUCHY.</h3> - -<p>Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders -are considered the best fish for this dish. -For the souchy, put some water into a -stewpan with a bunch of chopped parsley, -some roots, and sufficient salt to -make it brackish. Let these simmer for -1 hour, and then stew the fish in this -water. When they are done, take them -out to drain, have ready some finely-chopped -parsley, and a few roots cut -into slices of about one inch thick and -an inch in length. Put the fish in a -tureen or deep dish, strain the liquor -over them, and add the minced parsley -and roots. Serve with brown bread and -butter.</p> - - -<h3>WHEATEARS, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Wheatears; fresh butter. -<i>Mode.</i>—After the birds are picked, -gutted, and cleaned, truss them like -larks, put them down to a quick fire, and -baste them well with fresh butter. When -done, which will be in about 20 minutes, -dish them on fried bread-crumbs, and -garnish the dish with slices of lemon. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> from -July to October.</p> - - -<h3>WHISKEY CORDIAL.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 lb. of ripe white currants, -the rind of 2 lemons, ¼ oz. of -grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. -of lump sugar. <i>Mode.</i>—Strip the currants -from the stalks; put them into a -large jug; add the lemon-rind, ginger, -and whiskey; cover the jug closely, and -let it remain covered for 24 hours. Strain -through a hair-sieve, add the lump sugar, -and let it stand 12 hours longer; then -bottle, and cork well. <i>Time.</i>—To stand -24 hours before being strained; 12 hours -after the sugar is added. <i>Seasonable.</i>—Make -this in July.</p> - - -<h3>WHITEBAIT, to Dress.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A little flour, hot lard, -seasoning of salt. <i>Mode.</i>—This fish -should be put into iced water as soon as -bought, unless they are cooked immediately. -Drain them from the water in -a colander, and have ready a nice clean -dry cloth, over which put 2 good handfuls -of flour. Toss in the whitebait, -shake them lightly in the cloth, and -put them in a wicker-sieve to take away -the superfluous flour. Throw them into -a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, -and let them fry till of a whitey-brown -colour. Directly they are done, they -must be taken out, and laid before the -fire for a minute or two on a sieve reversed, -covered with blotting-paper to -absorb the fat. Dish them on a hot -napkin, arrange the fish very high in the -centre, and sprinkle a little salt over the -whole. <i>Time.</i>—3 minutes. <i>Seasonable</i> -from April to August.</p> - - -<h3><a id="WHITE_SAUCE_Good"></a>WHITE SAUCE, Good.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of white stock, ½ -pint of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, -salt to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Have ready a -delicately-clean saucepan, into which put -the stock, which should be well flavoured -with vegetables, and rather savoury; -mix the flour smoothly with the cream, -add it to the stock, season with a little -salt, and boil all these ingredients very -gently for about 10 minutes, keeping -them well stirred the whole time, as this -sauce is very liable to burn. <i>Time.</i>—10 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for a pair of fowls. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[368]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>WHITE SAUCE, Made without -Meat.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of butter, 2 small -onions, 1 carrot, ½ a small teacupful of -flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne -to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Cut up the onions and -carrot very small, and put them into a -stewpan with the butter; simmer them -till the butter is nearly dried up; then -stir in the flour, and add the milk; boil -the whole gently until it thickens, strain -it, season with salt and cayenne, and it -will be ready to serve. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour. -<i>Average cost</i>, 5<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a pair of -fowls. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple -and Inexpensive Method).</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ pint of milk, 1½ oz. of -rice, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 1 small blade -of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to -taste. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the milk with the -lemon-peel and rice until the latter is -perfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel -and pound the milk and rice together; -put it back into the stewpan to -warm, add the mace and seasoning, give -it one boil, and serve. This sauce should -be of the consistency of thick cream. -<i>Time.</i>—About 1½ hour to boil the rice. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a pair of -fowls. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>WHITING, Boiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—¼ lb. of salt to each -gallon of water. <i>Mode.</i>—Cleanse the fish, -but do not skin them; lay them in a fish-kettle, -with sufficient cold water to cover -them, and salt in the above proportion. -Bring them gradually to a boil, and -simmer gently for about 5 minutes, or -rather more should the fish be very large. -Dish them on a hot napkin, and garnish -with tufts of parsley. Serve with anchovy -or caper sauce, and plain melted -butter. <i>Time.</i>—After the water boils, -5 minutes. <i>Average cost</i> for small whitings, -4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> all the year, -but best from October to March. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 -small whiting for each person.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">To Choose Whiting.</span>—Choose for the -firmness of its flesh, and the silvery hue -of its appearance.</p> - - -<h3>WHITING, Broiled.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Salt and water; flour. -<i>Mode.</i>—Wash the whiting in salt and -water, wipe them thoroughly, and let -them remain in the cloth to absorb all -moisture. Flour them well, and broil -over a very clear fire. Serve with <i>maître -d’hôtel</i> sauce, or plain melted butter (<i>see</i> -<a href="#SAUCES">Sauces</a>). Be careful to preserve the -liver, as by some it is considered very -delicate. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes for a small -whiting. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but best from October -to March. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 small whiting -for each person.</p> - - -<h3>WHITING, &c.</h3> - -<p>Whiting, pike, haddock, and other -fish, when of a sufficiently large size, -may be carved in the same manner as -salmon. When small, they may be cut -through, bone and all, and helped in -nice pieces, a middling-sized whiting -serving for two slices.</p> - - -<h3>WHITING, Fried.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Egg and bread-crumbs, -a little flour, hot lard, or clarified dripping. -<i>Mode.</i>—Take off the skin, clean, -and thoroughly wipe the fish free from -all moisture, as this is most essential, in -order that the egg and bread-crumbs -may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in -the mouth by means of a small skewer, -brush the fish over with egg, dredge -with a little flour, and cover with bread-crumbs. -Fry them in hot lard or clarified -dripping of a nice colour, and serve -them on a napkin, garnished with fried -parsley. Send them to table with shrimp -sauce and plain melted butter. <i>Time.</i>—-About -6 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year, but best from -October to March. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 small -whiting for each person.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i>—Large whitings may be filleted, -rolled, and served as fried filleted soles. -Small fried whitings are frequently used -for garnishing large boiled fish, such as -turbot, cod, &c.</p> - - -<h3>WHITING AU GRATIN, or -BAKED WHITING.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—4 whiting, butter, 1 -tablespoonful of minced parsley, a few -chopped mushrooms when obtainable; -pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg to taste; -butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, -bread-crumbs. <i>Mode.</i>—Grease the bottom -of a baking-dish with butter, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[369]</a></span> -over it strew some minced parsley and -mushrooms. Scale, empty, and wash -the whitings, and wipe them thoroughly -dry, carefully preserving the livers. Lay -them in the dish, sprinkle them with -bread-crumbs and seasoning, adding a -little grated nutmeg, and also a little -more minced parsley and mushrooms. -Place small pieces of butter over the -whiting, moisten with the wine, and bake -for 20 minutes in a hot oven. If there -should be too much sauce, reduce it by -boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes, -and pour under the fish. Serve with a -cut lemon, and no other sauce. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> each. -<i>Seasonable</i> all the year, but best from -October to March. <i>Sufficient.</i>—This -quantity for 4 or 5 persons.</p> - - -<h3>WHITING AUX FINES -HERBES.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 bunch of sweet herbs -chopped very fine; butter. <i>Mode.</i>—Clean -and skin the fish, fasten the tails -in the mouths, and lay them in a baking-dish. -Mince the herbs very fine, strew -them over the fish, and place small pieces -of butter over; cover with another dish, -and let them simmer in a Dutch oven -for ¼ hour or 20 minutes. Turn the fish -once or twice, and serve with the sauce -poured over. <i>Time.</i>—¼ hour or 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> each. <i>Seasonable</i> -all the year, but best from October -to March. <i>Sufficient.</i>—1 small whiting -for each person.</p> - - -<h3>WIDGEON, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Widgeons, a little flour, -butter. <i>Mode.</i>—These are trussed in -the same manner as wild duck, but must -not be kept so long before they are -dressed. Put them down to a brisk fire; -flour, and baste them continually with -butter, and, when browned and nicely -frothed, send them to table hot and -quickly. Serve with brown gravy, or -orange gravy, and a cut lemon. <i>Time.</i>—¼ -hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes. -<i>Average cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> each: but seldom -bought. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 for a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> -from October to February.</p> - - -<h3>WIDGEON.</h3> - -<p>Widgeon may be carved in the same -way as described in regard to wild -duck.</p> - - -<h3>WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE -FOR PUDDINGS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1 pint of melted butter, -3 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar; -1 <i>large</i> wineglassful of port or sherry, or -¾ of a <i>small</i> glassful of brandy. <i>Mode.</i>—Make -½ pint of melted butter, omitting -the salt; then stir in the sugar and -wine or spirit in the above proportion, -and bring the sauce to the point of -boiling. Serve in a boat or tureen separately, -and, if liked, pour a little of it -over the pudding. To convert this into -punch sauce, add to the sherry and -brandy a small wineglassful of rum and -the juice and grated rind of ½ lemon. -Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Curaçoa, -substituted for the brandy, make excellent -sauces. <i>Time.</i>—Altogether, 15 -minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 8<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> -for 6 or 7 persons.</p> - - -<h3>WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ pint of sherry, ¼ pint -of water, the yolks of 5 eggs, 2 oz. of -pounded sugar, ½ teaspoonful of minced -lemon-peel, a few pieces of candied citron -cut thin. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate the yolks -from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, -and put them into a very clean saucepan -(if at hand, a lined one is best); add all -the other ingredients, place them over a -sharp fire, and keep stirring until the -sauce begins to thicken; then take it -off and serve. If it is allowed to boil, it -will be spoiled, as it will immediately -curdle. <i>Time.</i>—To be stirred over the -fire 3 or 4 minutes; but it must not boil. -<i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for a large -pudding; allow half this quantity for a -moderate-sized one. <i>Seasonable</i> at any -time.</p> - - -<h3>WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS, -Excellent.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 -teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of pounded -sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, ¼ saltspoonful -of salt, ½ pint of sherry or Madeira. -<i>Mode.</i>—Put the butter and flour into a -saucepan, and stir them over the fire -until the former thickens; then add the -sugar, salt, and wine, and mix these ingredients -well together. Separate the -yolks from the whites of 4 eggs; beat up -the former, and stir them briskly to the -sauce; let it remain over the fire until it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[370]</a></span> -is on the point of simmering; but do not -allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. -This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, -or bread puddings; but should be served -separately, and not poured over the -pudding. <i>Time.</i>—From 5 to 7 minutes -to thicken the butter; about 5 minutes -to stir the sauce over the fire. <i>Average -cost</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> for 7 or 8 -persons.</p> - - -<h3>WINE, to Mull.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—To every pint of wine -allow 1 large cupful of water, sugar, and -spice to taste. <i>Mode.</i>—In making preparations -like the above, it is very difficult -to give the exact proportions of -ingredients like sugar and spice, as what -quantity might suit one person would be -to another quite distasteful. Boil the -spice in the water until the flavour is -extracted, then add the wine and sugar, -and bring the whole to the boiling-point, -when serve with strips of crisp dry toast, -or with biscuits. The spices usually used -for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, -and cinnamon or mace. Any kind -of wine may be mulled, but port and -claret are those usually selected for the -purpose; and the latter requires a very -large proportion of sugar. The vessel -that the wine is boiled in must be delicately -clean, and should be kept exclusively -for the purpose. Small tin warmers -may be purchased for a trifle, which are -more suitable than saucepans, as, if the -latter are not scrupulously clean, they -will spoil the wine, by imparting to it a -very disagreeable flavour. These warmers -should be used for no other purposes.</p> - - -<h3>WOODCOCK, Roast.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—Woodcocks; butter, -flour, toast. <i>Mode.</i>—Woodcocks should -not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures, -considered a great delicacy. Pluck, -and wipe them well outside; truss them -with the legs close to the body, and the -feet pressing upon the thighs; skin the -neck and head, and bring the beak -round under the wing. Place some slices -of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the -trails, allowing a piece of toast for each -bird. Roast before a clear fire from 15 -to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, -and flour and froth them nicely. When -done, dish the pieces of toast with the -birds upon them, and pour round a very -little gravy; send some more to table in -a tureen. These are most delicious birds -when well cooked; but they should not -be kept too long: when the feathers -drop, or easily come out, they are fit for -for table. <i>Time.</i>—When liked underdone, -15 to 20 minutes; if liked well -done, allow an extra 5 minutes. <i>Average -cost.</i>—Seldom bought. <i>Sufficient.</i>—2 for -a dish. <i>Seasonable</i> from November to -February.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 253px;"> -<img src="images/illus-370a.jpg" width="253" height="110" alt="drawing" /> -<div class="caption">ROAST WOODCOCK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>WOODCOCK.</h3> - -<p>This bird, like a partridge, may be -carved by cutting it exactly into two -like portions, or made into three helpings, -as described -in carving partridge. -The backbone -is considered -the tit-bit of a -woodcock, and by -many the thigh is -also thought a great delicacy. This bird -is served in the manner advised by -Brillat Savarin, in connection with the -pheasant, viz., on toast which has received -its drippings whilst roasting; and -a piece of this toast should invariably -accompany each plate.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 180px;"> -<img src="images/illus-370b.jpg" width="180" height="90" alt="diagram" /> -<div class="caption">WOODCOCK.</div> -</div> - - -<h3>WOODCOCK, SCOTCH.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—A few slices of hot -buttered toast; allow 1 anchovy to each -slice. For the sauce,—¼ pint of cream, -the yolks of 3 eggs. <i>Mode.</i>—Separate -the yolks from the whites of the eggs; -beat the former, stir to them the cream, -and bring the sauce to the boiling-point, -but do not allow it to boil, or it will -curdle. Have ready some hot buttered -toast, spread with anchovies pounded to -a paste; pour a little of the hot sauce on -the top, and serve very hot and very -quickly. <i>Time.</i>—5 minutes to make the -sauce hot. <i>Sufficient.</i>—Allow ½ slice to -each person. <i>Seasonable</i> at any time.</p> - - -<h3>YEAST-CAKE.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ lb. of flour, ½ lb. of -butter, ½ pint of milk, 1½ tablespoonful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[371]</a></span> -of good yeast, 3 eggs, ¾ lb. of currants, -½ lb. of white moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied -peel. <i>Mode.</i>—Put the milk and butter -into a saucepan, and shake it round over -a fire until the butter is melted, but do -not allow the milk to get very hot. Put -the flour into a basin, stir to it the milk -and butter, the yeast and eggs, which -should be well beaten, and form the -whole into a smooth dough. Let it stand -in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to -rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the -currants, sugar, and candied peel cut -into thin slices. When all the ingredients -are thoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized -cake-tins with buttered paper, -which should be about six inches higher -than the tin; pour in the mixture, let it -stand to rise again for another ½ hour, -and then bake the cakes in a brisk oven -for about 1½ hour. If the tops of them -become too brown, cover them with -paper until they are done through. A -few drops of essence of lemon, or a little -grated nutmeg, may be added when the -flavour is liked. <i>Time.</i>—From 1¼ to 1½ -hour. <i>Average cost</i>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>Sufficient</i> to -make 2 moderate-sized cakes. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>YEAST-DUMPLINGS.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—½ quartern of dough, -boiling water. <i>Mode.</i>—Make a very light -dough as for bread, using to mix it, milk, -instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 -dumplings; plunge them into boiling -water, and boil them for 20 minutes. -Serve the instant they are taken up, as -they spoil directly, by falling and becoming -heavy; and in eating them do -not touch them with a knife, but tear -them apart with two forks. They may -be eaten with meat gravy, or cold butter -and sugar; and if not convenient to make -the dough at home, a little from the -baker’s answers as well, only it must be -placed for a few minutes near the fire, in -a basin with a cloth over it, to let it rise -again before it is made into dumplings. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes. <i>Average cost</i>, 4<i>d.</i> -<i>Sufficient</i> for 5 or 6 persons. <i>Seasonable</i> -at any time.</p> - - -<h3>YEAST, to Make, for Bread.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—1½ oz. of hops, 3 quarts -of water, 1 lb. of bruised malt, ½ pint of -yeast. <i>Mode.</i>—Boil the hops in the -water for 20 minutes; let it stand for -about 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. of -bruised malt prepared as for brewing. -Let the mixture stand covered till about -lukewarm; then put in not quite ½ pint -of yeast; keep it warm, and let it work -3 or 4 hours; then put it into small ½-pint -bottles (ginger-beer bottles are the -best for the purpose), cork them well, -and tie them down. The yeast is now -ready for use; it will keep good for a -few weeks, and 1 bottle will be found -sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour. When required -for use, boil 3 lbs. of potatoes -without salt, mash them in the same -water in which they were boiled, and -rub them through a colander. Stir in -about ½ lb. of flour; then put in the -yeast, pour it in the middle of the flour, -and let it stand warm on the hearth all -night, and in the morning let it be quite -warm when it is kneaded. The bottles -of yeast require very careful opening, as -it is generally exceedingly ripe. <i>Time.</i>—20 -minutes to boil the hops and water, -the yeast to work 3 or 4 hours. <i>Sufficient.</i>—½ -pint sufficient for 18 lbs. of -flour.</p> - - -<h3>YEAST, Kirkleatham.</h3> - -<p><i>Ingredients.</i>—2 oz. of hops, 4 quarts of -water, ½ lb. of flour, ½ pint of yeast. -<i>Mode.</i>—Boil the hops and water for 20 -minutes; strain, and mix with the liquid -½ lb. of flour and not quite ½ pint of -yeast. Bottle it up, and tie the corks -down. When wanted for use, boil potatoes -according to the quantity of bread -to be made (about 3 lbs. are sufficient for -about a peck of flour); mash them, add -to them ½ lb. of flour, and mix about -½ pint of the yeast with them; let this -mixture stand all day, and lay the bread -to rise the night before it is wanted. -<i>Time.</i>—20 minutes to boil the hops and -water. <i>Sufficient.</i>—½ pint of this yeast -sufficient for a peck of flour, or rather -more.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="center">FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> An American writer says he has followed -this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c., in the -place of carp, and can recommend all these -also, with a quiet conscience. Any fish, indeed, -may be used with success.</p></div></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[372]</a><br /><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[373]</a></span></p> - -<div class="bbox2"> - -<h2>Asque ad Finem.</h2> - - -<p class="drop-cap">HER hand has lost its cunning—the firm, true hand that wrote -these <i>formulæ</i>, and penned the information contained in this -little book. Cold in the silent tomb lie the once nimble, useful -fingers,—now nerveless, unable for anything, and ne’er to do work -more in this world! Exquisite palate, unerring judgment, sound -common sense, refined tastes,—all these had the dear Lady who has -gone ere her youth had scarcely come. But four times seven years -were all she passed in this world; and since the day she became -wedded wife—now nearly nine years past—her greatest, chiefest -aims were to provide for the comfort and pleasure of those she loved -and had around her, and to employ her best faculties for the use -of her sisters, Englishwomen generally. Her surpassing affection -and devotion led her to find her happiness in aiding, with all her -heart and soul, the Husband whom she richly blessed and honoured -with her abounding love.</p> - -<p>Her Works speak for themselves; and, although taken from -this world in the very height of health and strength, and in the -early days of womanhood, she felt that satisfaction—so great to all -who strive with good intent and warm will—of knowing herself -regarded with respect and gratitude,</p> - -<p>Her labours are ended here; in a purer atmosphere she dwells; -and may be, in the land beyond the skies, she has nobler work to -accomplish. Her plans for the future cannot be wholly carried out: -her Husband knew them all, and will diligently devote himself to -their execution, as far as may be. The remembrance of her wishes,—always -for the private and public welfare,—and the companionship -of her two little boys,—too young to know the virtues of their good -Mother,—this memory, this presence, will nerve the Father, left -alone, to continue to do his duty: in which he will follow the -example of his Wife, for her duty no woman has ever better accomplished -than the late</p> - -<div class="center"> -<b>Isabella Mary Beeton.</b><br /> -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[374]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/illus-end.jpg" width="350" height="249" alt="THE END." /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[375]</a></span></p> - - - -<div class="bbox"> -<h2>BEETON’S ONE SHILLING HOUSEHOLD BOOKS,</h2> - -<p class="center"><i>Coloured and other Illustrations, Cloth Wrappers.</i></p> - - -<ul class="booklist"><li><span class="smcap">British Song Birds.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">British Song and Talking Birds.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">The Parrot Tribes, the Hawks, and Owls.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Birds’ Nests and Eggs; Taxidermy</span> (Bird Stuffing).</li> -<li><span class="smcap">Poultry and Pigeons.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Dogs and Cats.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Rabbits, Hares, Hedgehogs, Squirrels, Mice, Tortoises.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Bees, Silkworms, Inhabitants of the Aquarium, Ferns.</span></li> -</ul> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 190px;"> -<img src="images/doubleline.jpg" width="190" height="12" alt="double-line" /> -</div> - - -<h2>VALUABLE WORKS of REFERENCE for FAMILIES.</h2> - - -<p class="center">————————————<br /> -Price 15<i>s.</i>, demy 8vo, half roan; 18<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, half calf, with -Maps and Illustrations,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>BEETON’S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL -INFORMATION.</i> Complete, A to Z. -Comprising Geography, Biography, History, Mythology, -Biblical Knowledge, Chronology, with the Pronunciation -of every Proper Name.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><i>“The ‘Dictionary of Universal Information’ just -published by Mr. S. O. Beeton, supplies a desideratum -much and widely felt—that of a comprehensive yet -portable dictionary of proper names. The ‘Encyclopædia -Britannica,’ the ‘English Encyclopædia,’ and -the other great digests of human knowledge, in consequence -of their high price, are accessible only to a -few. In such works no special provision is made for -supplying short and comprehensive information regarding -individual words, arranged in their alphabetical -order, of the kind most likely to be required by -the great mass of general readers. Mr. Beeton to -some extent enters a new field in devoting a Dictionary -exclusively to proper names in Geography, History, -Biography, Mythology, Bible Knowledge, and -Chronology. In these pages condensation has been in -every way sought after, and we know of no work -which supplies more information at a smaller cost.”</i>—<span class="smcap">The -Times.</span></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Uniform with the above, demy 8vo, price 15<i>s.</i>, half -roan; 18<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> half calf, numerous Illustrations,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>BEETON’S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL -INFORMATION.</i> A to Z. Comprising -a Complete Summary of the Moral, Mathematical, -Physical, and Natural Sciences; A Plain Description -of the Arts; an Interesting Synopsis of Literary -Knowledge, with the Etymology and Pronunciation -of every Leading Term.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><i>“Mr. Beeton has published quite a library of -general knowledge and information, and his books -of reference contain as much as many more elaborate -works, though published at half the price, -and with less than half the pretence.”</i>—<span class="smcap">Saturday -Review.</span></p></div> - - -<p class="center">One Thousand Illustrations, price 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, half-bound,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE SELF-AID CYCLOPÆDIA -FOR SELF-TAUGHT STUDENTS.</i> Comprising -General Drawing; Architectural, Mechanical, and -Engineering Drawing; Ornamental Drawing and -Design; Mechanics and Mechanism; the Steam -Engine. By <span class="smcap">Robert Scott Burn</span>, F.S.A.E., -&c., Author of “Lessons of My Farm,” &c. 690 pp., -demy 8vo.</p></div> - -<p>⁂ <i>One of the most useful and one of the cheapest -books ever published.</i></p> - - -<p class="center">Price 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, post 8vo, half roan,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>BEETON’S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL -BIOGRAPHY.</i> Being the Lives of -Eminent Persons of all Times, with the Pronunciation -of every Name.</p></div> - - -<p class="center"><b>New and Useful Book for Schools, -Families, and Self-Learners.</b><br /> - -Second Edition, just ready, price 5<i>s.</i>, half bound,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY -DIFFICULTIES IN READING, WRITING, -and SPEAKING THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE; -or, Hard Words Made Easy.</i> A Complete -Epitome of valuable Explanations and Definitions of -Difficult English and Foreign Words, Phrases, and -Expressions, with the Correct Pronunciation of each -word. By <span class="smcap">Edward Shelton</span>, Author of “The -Historical Finger-Post;” Assistant Editor of “The -Dictionary of Daily Wants,” “Hints and Helps for -Every-Day Emergencies,” &c. 364 pp., crown 8vo.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><i>“The value of this work is not to be over-estimated, -and we may safely recommend our readers -to put themselves in possession of a copy of it.”</i>—<span class="smcap">Cambridge -Chronicle And University Journal.</span></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Just Ready, New Edition, carefully Revised, with all -the Recent Discoveries and Improvements,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>MILNER AND PETERMANN’S -DESCRIPTIVE ATLAS.</i> Being a Series of Maps -Illustrative of Astronomy and Physical and Political -Geography, with descriptive letterpress by the Rev. -<span class="smcap">Thomas Milner</span>, M.A., F.R.G.S., Author of -“The Gallery of Nature,” &c., &c. The Maps of -Physical and Political Geography constructed, or -carefully revised and corrected, by <span class="smcap">Augustus -Petermann</span>, F.R.G.S., Honorary and Corresponding -Member of the Geographical Societies of -Berlin and Frankfort.</p></div> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="prices"> -<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"><i><small>s.</small> </i></td><td align="right"><i><small>d.</small></i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Imperial 4to</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right"> 0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ditto, ditto, half-bound, Russia </td><td align="right"> 35</td><td align="right"> 0</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>⁂ <i>The Atlas—“encyclopædic” in its character—embraces -the three distinct divisions of Astronomy -and of Physical and Political Geography. In its present -form it represents by Engravings, Maps, and -Letterpress, the General Phenomena of the Planetary -and Stellar Universe, the Physical Constitution and -Features of the Globe, and the Artificial Distribution -of its surface into States, with Details respecting their -Internal Economy and External Relations—thus -forming the most comprehensive Atlas hitherto published.</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[376]</a></span></p></div> - - -<p class="center">New and Cheaper Edition, with Additional New -Words,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>WEBSTER’S UNIVERSAL PRONOUNCING -and DEFINING DICTIONARY -OF THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE.</i> Condensed -from <span class="smcap">Noah Webster’s</span> large Work, with numerous -Synonyms, carefully discriminated, by <span class="smcap">Chauncey -A. Goodrich</span>, D.D., Professor in Yale College. -To which are added “Walker’s Key” to the -Pronunciation of Classical and Scriptural Proper -Names; a Vocabulary of Modern Geographical -Names, Phrases and Quotations from the Ancient -and Modern Languages; Abbreviations used in -Writing, Printing, &c. 634 pp.</p></div> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="prices"> -<tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="right"> <i><small>s.</small></i></td><td align="right"> <i><small>d.</small></i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Royal 8vo, half-bound</td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Strongly bound in Russia, marble edges </td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ditto, ditto, half Russia, ditto</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ditto, ditto, calf, gilt, ditto</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ditto, ditto, half calf, ditto</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>⁂ <i>This comprehensive work is beautifully printed -on good paper, in a clear and distinct type, in double -columns, and has had the benefit of revision to the -present time.</i></p> - -<p>“<i>This Dictionary is one which must commend itself -to every intelligent reader, containing, as it does, -all the recently-adopted words in common use up to -the end of last year. Let us add, it is carefully and -well printed, and very cheap; and having said so -much, we feel assured that further commendation is -unnecessary. It is good, useful, and cheap.</i>”—<span class="smcap">Liverpool -Mail.</span></p></div> - - -<p class="center"><b>Webster’s Shilling Dictionary for the -Million.</b><br /> - -Original Edition, 130th Thousand.</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>WEBSTER’S (NOAH) PRONOUNCING -DICTIONARY of the ENGLISH LANGUAGE.</i> -Royal 16mo, cloth boards.</p></div> - - -<p class="center"><b>The Cheapest English Dictionary ever -published.</b></p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>WEBSTER’S (NOAH) IMPROVED -PRONOUNCING DICTIONARY OF THE ENGLISH -LANGUAGE.</i> Condensed and adapted to -English Orthography and Usage, with Additions -from various accredited sources. By <span class="smcap">Charles -Robson</span>. To which are added Accentuated Lists -of Scriptural, Classical, and Modern Geographical -Proper Names. Fcap. 4to, cloth, lettered, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>⁂ <i>This carefully-revised edition of Webster’s great -work was undertaken, at considerable outlay, by the -late David Bogue, and embraces all the best points of -the English and American authorities. It must -supersede Johnson, Walker, Smart, Worcester, and -its other predecessors. It is admirably adapted for -school use.</i></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Ready this day, fcap. 8vo, half-bound, price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>WEBSTER’S PEOPLE’S PORTABLE -DICTIONARY of the ENGLISH LANGUAGE.</i> -Condensed and adapted to the English -Orthography and Usages, with Additions from -various sources. By <span class="smcap">Chas. Robson</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>⁂ <i>“Webster’s People’s Portable Dictionary” has -been compiled on a more comprehensive scale than a -mere pocket dictionary, and will therefore be found -more useful in the counting-house and in the -family, whilst it is not too bulky for tourists and -railway travellers.</i></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Just Ready,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>GERMAN-ENGLISH and ENGLISH-GERMAN -DICTIONARY</i>; to which is added a -<span class="smcap">Pocket Companion for Travellers</span>, containing -a Collection of Conversations, a Geographical -Vocabulary, and a Table of Coins, &c., by Dr. <span class="smcap">F. E. -Feller</span>. Eighth edition. Thick 32mo, half-bound, -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p></div> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 190px;"> -<img src="images/doubleline.jpg" width="190" height="12" alt="double-line" /> -</div> - - -<h2>POPULAR EDUCATIONAL WORKS.</h2> - - -<p class="center">One Hundredth Thousand.</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE ILLUSTRATED WEBSTER -SPELLING BOOK.</i> Demy 8vo, embellished with -upwards of 250 splendid Engravings, by <span class="smcap">Gilbert</span>, -<span class="smcap">Harvey</span>, <span class="smcap">Dalziel</span>, and other eminent Artists, 128 -pp., new and accented type, upon the principle of -“Webster’s Dictionary of the English Language.”</p></div> - - -<ul class="booklist"> -<li>Cloth, gilt lettered, 1<i>s.</i></li> -<li>Ditto, ditto, coloured, extra cloth, gilt edges, 2<i>s.</i></li> -<li>Ditto, ditto, coloured, cloth, sprinkled edges, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></li> -</ul> - - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE ILLUSTRATED WEBSTER -READER.</i> Containing Two Hundred Lessons on -General Subjects, suited to the capacity of Young -Learners, with Explanatory Introduction and Questions -for Examination, on the plan of Noah Webster, -the Lexicographer. Embellished with numerous -first-rate Engravings from designs by Eminent English -and Foreign Artists. Demy 8vo, 160 pp., cloth, -gilt-back and side, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Just Ready, New and Revised Edition, price 2<i>s.</i>,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE ILLUSTRATED DRAWING -BOOK</i>; comprising a complete Introduction to -Drawing and Perspective; with Instructions for -Etching on Copper or Steel, &c., &c. By <span class="smcap">Robert -Scott Burn</span>. Illustrated with above 300 Subjects -for Study in every branch of Art. Demy 8vo, cloth.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>⁂ <i>This extremely popular and useful “Drawing -Book” has been thoroughly revised by the Author, -and many new Illustrations are added, thus rendering -the</i> <span class="smcap">Third Edition</span> <i>the most perfect Handbook -of Drawing for Schools and Students.</i></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Now Ready, New Edition, Revised by the Author, -price 2<i>s.</i>,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>ARCHITECTURAL, ENGINEERING, -and MECHANICAL DRAWING BOOK.</i> -By <span class="smcap">R. S. Burn</span>. With 300 Engravings. Demy 8vo, -cloth.</p></div> - - -<p class="center"><b>New Work on Ornament and Design.</b><br /> - -Recently published, price 2<i>s.</i>, New Edition,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>ORNAMENTAL DRAWING AND -ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN.</i> With Notes, Historical -and Practical. By <span class="smcap">Robert Scott Burn</span>, -Author of “The Illustrated Drawing Book,” &c., -&c., with nearly 300 Engravings of Interior and -Exterior Decorations for Churches, Houses, &c., -&c. Demy 8vo. cloth, gilt.</p></div> - - -<p class="center">Now Ready, price 2<i>s.</i>,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE STEAM ENGINE; Its History -and Mechanism</i>, being Descriptions and Illustrations -of the Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine -Engine. By <span class="smcap">R. S. Burn</span>. Demy 8vo, 144 pp.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>⁂ <i>A most perfect compendium of anything appertaining -to the Steam Engine. Mr. Burn treats his -subject in a thoroughly practical and popular manner, -so that he who runs may read, and also understand.</i></p></div> - - -<p class="center">New and Revised Edition,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>MECHANICS AND MECHANISM.</i> -By <span class="smcap">Robert Scott Burn</span>. With about 250 Illustrations. -Demy 8vo, cloth, 2<i>s.</i></p> -</div> -</div> - - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[377]</a></span></p> -<div class="bbox"> -<h2>HOUSEHOLD AND REFERENCE BOOKS,<br /> - -<small>PUBLISHED BY</small><br /> - -WARD, LOCK, AND TYLER.</h2> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 190px;"> -<img src="images/doubleline.jpg" width="190" height="12" alt="double-line" /> -</div> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p>Price 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> post 8vo, half roan; 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> half calf, -with beautifully Coloured Plates, and upwards of -300 other Engravings,</p> - -<p><i>MRS. BEETON’S BOOK of HOUSEHOLD -MANAGEMENT.</i> New Edition. 95th -Thousand. Revised, Corrected, and Enlarged. -With entirely new Coloured Cookery Plates, showing -the Modern Modes of Serving Dishes.</p></div> - - -<p class="center">Price 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> post 8vo, cloth; 5<i>s.</i> half calf, numerous -Illustrations,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>MRS. BEETON’S DICTIONARY of -EVERY-DAY COOKERY.</i> Containing a Collection -of valuable Recipes, alphabetically arranged, -Bills of Fare for all Seasons, &c., &c.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p><i>This forms the first volume of the “All About It” -series.</i></p></div> - - -<p class="center">Price 1<i>s.</i>, linen cover,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE ENGLISHWOMAN’S COOKERY -BOOK.</i> One Hundred and Tenth Thousand. -By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Isabella Beeton</span>. Being a Collection -of Economical Recipes, taken from her -“Book of Household Management.” Amply Illustrated -by a large number of appropriate and useful -Engravings.</p> - -<p><i>BEETON’S HOUSE AND HOME -BOOKS.</i> Post 8vo, numerous Engravings, printed -cloth wrappers, price 1<i>s.</i> each.</p></div> - -<p class="center">Just Ready.</p> - -<div class="hangsection2"> - -<p>1. <i>HOW TO MANAGE HOUSE AND SERVANTS, -and Make the Most of your Means</i>; -with Remarks on the Duties of Domestic Servants.</p> - -<p>2. <i>THE MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN IN -HEALTH and SICKNESS</i>; with Plain Directions -for the Treatment of the Diseases of Infancy -and Childhood.</p> - -<p>3. <i>HOW TO DINE, DINNERS, and DINING</i>; -with Bills of Fare for all the Year to please Everybody; -together with the best Recipes for Sauces, -Pickles, Gravies, and Forcemeats.</p> - -<p>4. <i>POULTRY AND GAME</i>; How to Cook and -Carve, with General Observations when in and -when out of Season. Coloured Plate.</p> - -<p>5. <i>PUDDINGS AND PASTRY</i>; the best way to -Make and to Serve up. Coloured Plate.</p> - -<p>6. <i>MEATS</i>; How to Select, How to Cook, and How -to Carve, and what to do with them when Cold. -Coloured Plate.</p> - -<p>7. <i>FISH AND SOUPS</i>; The Best Way to Cook, -and How to Serve. Coloured Plate.</p> - -<p>8. <i>VEGETABLES</i>; How they should be Cooked -and Served Up; with General Observations on -Bread and Biscuit Baking, the Dairy, &c.</p> - -<p>9. <i>PRESERVES and CONFECTIONERY</i>; How -to Make Ices, Jellies, Creams, Jams, Omelettes, -Custards, &c. Coloured Plate.</p></div> - -<div class="hangsection"> -<p>Uniform with “Household Management,” price 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> -post 8vo, half roan, Illustrated; half calf, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>,</p> - - - -<p><i>BEETON’S BOOK OF GARDEN -MANAGEMENT</i>; Comprising valuable Information -on Laying-out and Planting Gardens; Fruit, -Flower, and Garden Management, Greenhouses, -Decorative Gardens, &c.</p> - -<p>Uniform with “Household Management,” price 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, -post 8vo, half roan; 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, half calf; Coloured -Plates, and many Illustrations,</p> - -<p><i>BEETON’S BOOK of HOME PETS</i>; -Showing How to Rear and Manage, in Sickness and -in Health.</p></div> - - -<p class="center">Price 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, post 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, many Illustrations, -Coloured Plates,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>BEETON’S BOOK OF BIRDS</i>; -with Full Particulars How to Manage them under all -circumstances, and Information on Nests, Eggs, -Stuffing and Mounting, &c., &c.</p> - -<p>Uniform with the “Book of Birds,” price 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, post -8vo, cloth, gilt edges, Coloured Plates, and numerous -Illustrations,</p> - -<p><i>BEETON’S BOOK OF POULTRY -AND DOMESTIC ANIMALS</i>; with useful Information -on their Management; together with Remarks -on Ferns, the Aquarium, &c., &c.</p></div> - - -<p class='center'>New Edition, just ready, crown 8vo, half bound, price -3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE MOTHER’S RESOURCE -BOOK</i>; Comprising Self-Discipline of the Expectant -Mother; General Management during Infancy and -Childhood; also Children’s Complaints; Children’s -Cookery: Children’s Clothing; Children’s Amusements; -Children’s Physical Development; Children’s -Education; and Children’s Moral Training. The -whole classified and arranged upon an entirely new -plan, and Illustrated with several Engravings.</p></div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><i>This really reliable book contains a rich store of -information, comprising instructions for every emergency -likely to arise in the management of children; -including their nurture, early education, clothing, -ailments, amusements, &c.</i></p></div> - - -<p class='center'>Now ready, price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, half-bound; ditto, boards, -linen wrapper, 2<i>s.</i>,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>THE DOMESTIC MEDICAL -GUIDE FOR FAMILIES, CLERGYMEN, EMIGRANTS, -and SEA CAPTAINS</i>; giving the -best Advice, in the absence of a Physician or Surgeon, -in cases of Accident or Sudden Illness; with -full Directions as to the Quantity of Medicine to be -taken, &c., &c.; to which is appended, Advice on -the Preservation of Health, &c., &c. By <span class="smcap">Jabez -Hogg</span>, M.R.C.S., &c., &c. Post 8vo.</p></div> - - -<p class="center">Just Published, price 2<i>s.</i>, linen boards,</p> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>HOUSEHOLD HINTS; or, How to -Make Home Happy</i>, with 500 Odds and Ends Worth -Remembering. By <span class="smcap">W. Jones</span>, F.S.A. 320 pp., -fcap. 8vo.</p></div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[378]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="bbox"> -<h2>WARD, LOCK, & TYLER’S USEFUL BOOKS.</h2> - -<p class="center">ONE SHILLING EACH.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 190px;"> -<img src="images/doubleline.jpg" width="190" height="12" alt="double-line" /> -</div> - -<div class="hangsection"> - -<p><i>ETIQUETTE, POLITENESS, and -GOOD BREEDING.</i> Embracing all Forms and -Ceremonies in the Etiquette of Marriage, Christenings, -Morning and Evening Parties, Letters of Introduction, -Dinner Parties, Recognitions, Entertainment -of Visitors, Balls, Concerts, Ceremonial Visits, -Dress, Manners, Salutations, Leave-takings, and a -variety of Model Letters.</p> - -<p><i>MARINE BOTANY and SEA-SIDE -OBJECTS.</i> Embracing every feature of interest -connected with this delightful Sea-side Recreation, -and Illustrated with many charming Specimens.</p> - -<p><i>WILD FLOWERS.</i> Showing Where -to Gather Them; How to Preserve Them; their -Uses and Seasons for Flowering, and their Medicinal -Uses. Illustrated with many beautiful Specimens.</p> - -<p><i>BRITISH FERNS AND MOSSES</i>; -describing their Haunts and Habits, their Forms and -Uses, with numerous Pictorial Representations.</p> - -<p><i>ECONOMICAL COOKERY BOOK -FOR HOUSEWIVES, COOKS, and MAIDS OF -ALL WORK</i>; with Hints to the Mistress and Servant. -By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Warren</span>, of the “Ladies’ Treasury,” -&c.</p> - -<p><i>THE BEST METHOD OF DOING -COMMON THINGS</i>; being Four Hundred Valuable -Original Household Recipes and Practical -Hints and Directions.</p> - -<p><i>THE CLERK’S INSTRUCTOR and -MANUAL.</i> With Useful Instruction on Business -Matters and Private Conduct.</p> - -<p><i>THE HORSE:</i> How to Choose Him, -How to Use Him, with Hints and Cautions to Purchasers.</p> - -<p><i>HEALTH; or, The Art of Self-Management.</i> -With a Treatise on the Turkish Bath, Bathing, -&c.</p> - -<p><i>HINTS AND HELPS</i> for Emergencies, -Accidents, Pecuniary Embarrassments, and -Legal Difficulties.</p> - -<p><i>THE MOTHER’S MEDICAL -ADVISER</i>, and Guide for Emergencies, with Practical -Directions for Diet, Clothing, and General Management.</p> - -<p><i>HINTS ON ELOCUTION and PUBLIC -SPEAKING.</i> By <span class="smcap">C. W. Smith</span>, Author of -“Common Blunders.”</p> - -<p><i>THE PRACTICAL LETTER-WRITER</i>, -with Hints and Rules for Epistolary Correspondence, -by Precept and Example.</p> - -<p><i>THE FAMILY COOKERY BOOK</i>, -containing all necessary Directions for preparing -Stylish, Medium, and Plain Dinners, &c., &c.</p> - -<p><i>THE FLOWER GARDEN and KITCHEN -GARDEN.</i> Practical Instructions for the -Management of Flowers, Shrubs, Culinary Vegetables, -&c.</p> - -<p><i>HOW TO MANAGE A FRUIT, -FLOWER, and KITCHEN GARDEN</i>, with Useful -Information upon Seeds, Manures, Planting, -Grafting, Budding, Greenhouses, Plants, &c.</p> - -<p><i>THE HOUSEKEEPER’S MANUAL -OF ENGLISH COOKERY</i>—Preserving—Pickling—Confectionery -and Bread Making—Brewing and -British Wine Making; with other Information most -useful to Large and Small Families.</p> - -<p><i>HOW TO STUDY ASTRONOMY, -GEOLOGY, and MINERALOGY WITH PLEASURE -and PROFIT.</i> A Popular Exposition of -the Modern Discoveries in these most interesting -Sciences.</p></div> - - -<div class="center">—————————<br /> -N.B.—<span class="smcap">Ward, Lock, and Tyler’s Complete Catalogue</span> gratis on application, -or free by post for One Stamp.<br /> - -—————————<br /> - - -LONDON:<br /> -<b>WARD, LOCK, and TYLER, Warwick House, Paternoster Row;</b><br /> -AND 107, DORSET STREET, SALISBURY SQUARE.<br /> -</div> -</div> -<hr class="full" /> -<div class="tnote"><div class="center"> -<b>Transcriber’s Notes:</b></div> - -<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired. In the original when soufflé -is in all capitals or small captials, the accent is missing although it often appears -in the recipe itself with the accent. Assuming the editor simply didn’t own -the capital with an acute accent, it has been added to all instances to -make searching more consistent. This was true of all accented characters -such as for Béchamel.</p> - -<p>Wherever possible varied hyphenation was eliminated for consistency in searching. -Type-setting was made consistent across recipes. For example all uses of monetary -initials were italicized to follow the form used in the majority.</p> - -<p>In the notes below, an asterisk indicates a space or smudge in the original -text.</p> - -<p>Page 6, “made” changed to “may” (may be made merely)</p> - -<p>Page 20, “croûtone” changed to “croûtons” (croûtons; vegetables. 3)</p> - -<p>Page 23, “2*” changed to “24” (24 hours, not forgetting)</p> - -<p>Page 23, “Berberris” changed to “Berberis” (Berberis vulgaris)</p> - -<p>Page 70, “Entremet” changed to “Entremets” (Sweet Entremets)</p> - -<p>Page 71, “Melilotos” changed to “Melilotus” (Melilotus officinalis)</p> - -<p>Page 71, a repeated heading of “CHEESE.” was removed from the top of the paragraph -beginning “In families where much cheese” due to the presence of the same heading -on page 70.</p> - -<p>Page 73, “dots” changed to “pots” (pots, pour over them)</p> - -<p>Page 105, “Coucombres” changed to “Concombres” (Poulets aux Concombres)</p> - -<p>Page 105, “Tomatos” changed to “Tomatoes” (Tomatoes, Green Peas)</p> - -<p>Page 118, “Jardinère” changed to “Jardinière” (beef à la Jardinière)</p> - -<p>Page 119, “surloin” changed to “sirloin” (2. Roast sirloin of)</p> - -<p>Page 150, “engthwise” changed to “lengthwise” (lengthwise, and make a)</p> - -<p>Page 167, “perferred” changed to “preferred” (that may be preferred)</p> - -<p>Page 179, “itme” changed to “time” (<i>Seasonable</i> at any -time)</p> - -<p>Page 189, “th*” changed to “the” (custard over the hot)</p> - -<p>Page 189, “have” changed to “has” (If it has -a transparent)</p> - -<p>Page 203, “clarirified” changed to “clairified” (juice of 1 lemon, -clarified)</p> - -<p>Page 207, “*e” changed to “be” (should be carried sharply)</p> - -<p>Page 207, “3 to 4” changed to “5 to 6” (direction of 3 to 4 and 5 to 6)</p> - -<p>Page 218, “Campôte” changed to “Compôte” (Compôte of Plums)</p> - -<p>Page 218, “Créci” changed to “Crécy” (soup à la Crécy)</p> - -<p>Page 220, “flour” changed to “flower” (of vanilla, orange-flower)</p> - -<p>Page 246, “littel” changed to “little” (cayenne to taste, a little)</p> - -<p>Page 247, “t**” changed to “the” (Put into a basin the)</p> - -<p>Page 274, “then” changed to “thin” (Slice the roll very thin)</p> - -<p>Page 278, “**ear” changed to “clear” (clear fire, keep them)</p> - -<p>Page 282, “candid” changed to “candied” (with strips of candied)</p> - -<p>Page 294, “from 1 to” removed from phrase “more than from 1 to 10 -minutes” as it didn’t make sense in context (than 10 minutes for a -steak)</p> - -<p>Page 295, “gentleman” changed to “gentlemen” (consist entirely of -gentlemen)</p> - -<p>Page 301, “into” changed to “in to” (it in to pickle in)</p> - -<p>Page 306, “flower” changed to “flour” (and flour in the above)</p> - -<p>Page 321, “gelantine” changed to “gelatine” (much gelatine as)</p> - -<p>Page 326, word “<i>Mode.</i>—” added to text to match rest of format -(<i>Mode.</i>—Put in a clean stewpan)</p> - -<p>Page 336, “emon” changed to “lemon” (slices of cut -lemon)</p> - -<p>Page 336, “broiled” changed to “boiled” to match recipe instructions -(boiled 10 minutes, to be)</p> - -<p>Page 347, “I2” changed to “12” (to 12<i>s.</i>; middling)</p> - -<p>Page 348, “fish” changed to “flesh” (Cut the flesh of the -turbot)</p> - -<p>Page 349, “roas” changed to “roast” (remains of cold roast)</p> - -<p>Page 350, “tim*” changed to “time” (whole of the time it is)</p> - -<p>Page 350, “e*ving” changed to “serving” (¼ hour before serving)</p> - -<p>Page 369, “ozs.” changed to “oz.” (of 5 eggs, 2 oz. of)</p> -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mrs. Beeton's Dictionary of Every-Day -Cookery, by Isabella Mary Beeton - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY *** - -***** This file should be named 50191-h.htm or 50191-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/1/9/50191/ - -Produced by Malcolm Farmer, Emmy and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - - -</pre> - -</body> -</html> |