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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portola, by Zoeth S. Eldredge
+
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+Title: The March of Portolá
+
+Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge
+
+Release Date: January, 2004  [EBook #4978]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on April 7, 2002]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: Latin-1
+ 
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE MARCH OF PORTOLA ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by David A. Schwan <davidsch@earthlink.net>.
+
+
+
+The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco
+
+
+
+by
+Zoeth S. Eldredge
+
+
+
+-
+
+
+
+The Log of the San Carlos
+
+and
+
+Original Documents Translated and Annotated
+
+
+
+by
+E. J. Molera
+
+
+
+Published by the Reception Committee of The California Promotion
+Committee
+
+
+
+This Book is published with the approval and endorsement of the
+Executive Committee of the Portolá Festival.
+
+
+
+The March of Portolá
+
+and
+
+The Log of the San Carlos
+
+
+
+San Francisco
+
+-
+
+"Serene, indifferent of fate,
+Thou sittest at the Western Gate;
+
+Upon thy heights so lately won,
+Still slant the banners of the sun;
+
+Thou seest the white seas strike their tents,
+O warder of two continents,
+
+And scornful of the peace that flies,
+Thy angry winds and sullen skies,
+
+Thou drawest all things, small or great,
+To thee beside the Western Gate."
+
+
+
+Table of Contents
+
+-
+
+Introduction
+The March of Portolá and Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco
+Data regarding Portolá after he left California
+Letter of the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga
+Causes that led to the Expedition of the San Carlos
+Log of the San Carlos
+Report of the Commander of the San Carlos
+Description of the Bay of San Francisco
+Report of the Pilot of the San Carlos
+
+
+
+Illustrations
+
+The March to Monterey (Frontispiece)
+Carrying the Sick
+Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco
+Departure of the San Carlos from La Paz
+Facsimile of signature of Governor Portolá
+First Survey and Map of the Bay of San Francisco
+
+
+
+Introduction
+
+In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives of
+heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record of
+Spanish exploration in America. To those of us who have come into
+possession of the fair land opened up by them, the story of their
+travels and adventures have the most profound interest. The account of
+the expedition of Portolá has never been properly presented. Many
+writers have touched on it, and H. H. Bancroft, in his History of
+California, gives a brief digest of Crespi's diary. Most writers on
+California history have drawn on Palou's Vida del V. P. F. Junipero
+Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and without looking further,
+have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We have endeavored in this
+sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the conditions which
+preceded and led up to the occupation of California.
+
+The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific
+was early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but
+small respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World
+between Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated
+expeditions into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two
+ships to look in Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea,
+one of which bore the significant name of California. The voyage of
+Francis Drake, 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay he
+proclaimed the sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New
+Albion. Two hundred years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver
+explored the coast of California down to thirty degrees of north
+latitude (Ensenada de Todos Santos), which, he says, "is the
+southernmost limit of New Albion, as discovered by Sir Francis Drake, or
+New California, as the Spaniards frequently call it." Even after the
+occupation and settlement by the Spaniards, so feeble were their
+establishments that, as Vancouver reports to the Admiralty, it would
+take but a small force to wrest from Spain this most valuable
+possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain presaged the time
+when her hold upon America would be loosened, the standard of individual
+heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of Portolá and of Anza
+rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The California explorer did
+not, it is true, have to fight his way through hordes of fierce natives.
+The California Indians, as a rule, received the white adventurers
+gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as they had to offer,
+but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were but a poor lot.
+In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea swarming with fish, a
+soil capable of growing every character of foodstuff, these miserable
+natives lived in a chronic state of starvation.
+
+As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portolá upholds
+the best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon
+the character of the leader. Pánfilo de Narváez landed on the coast of
+Florida in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men
+and forty horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the
+previous June, and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida,
+only four lived to reach civilization - the rest perished. That is but
+one example of incompetent leadership. When Portolá organized his
+expedition for the march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his
+soldiers were ill from scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick
+list numbered nineteen men, including the governor and Rivera, his chief
+officer. Sixteen men had to be carried, and to three, in extremis, the
+viaticum was administered; but he brought them all through, and returned
+to San Diego without the loss of a man.
+
+There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and
+the other by Alférez Costansó. There is, besides, a diary of Junípero
+Serra of the march from Velicatá to San Diego Bay, a translation of
+which is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902.
+It is of small value to the student of history. There is a diary by
+Portolá, quoted by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by
+Bancroft. These we have not seen. There are letters from Francisco
+Palou, Juan Crespi and Miguel Costansó, printed in Out West for January
+1902. The diary of Father Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la
+Nueva California. Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San
+Francisco, 1874. The diary of Miguel Costansó is in the Sutro library.
+It has never been printed. It is prefaced by an historical narrative, a
+poor translation of which was published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, and
+a better one by Chas. F. Lummis in Out West, June-July, 1901. In
+Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California, Vol. II,
+Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of documents of the Sutro collection
+are printed, with translations by George Butler Griffin. These relate to
+the explorations of the California coast by ships from the Philippines,
+the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some letters of Junípero Serra, and
+diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to the northern coast in 1774.
+
+The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original
+documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful
+survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by
+the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions
+and language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted
+are Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva
+California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C.
+Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties
+of Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The
+Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on
+the Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of
+the Geographical Society of the Pacific.
+
+In view of the forthcoming Portolá Festival, The California Promotion
+Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its
+members to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement
+of California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life
+and character of Portolá, the committee has been enabled, through the
+efforts of one of its members, to have careful search made among the
+archives of Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of
+Mexico, and of Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet,
+concerning Portolá, we have received other documents of the utmost
+importance to the history of San Francisco: a chronicle of the events
+following the discovery of the Bay.
+
+By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the
+northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the year
+1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the
+commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos,
+under Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. To
+Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San
+Francisco, while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north.
+Bodega discovered the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his
+name as it is usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft
+(History of California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his
+short and incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate
+that neither map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is
+with pleasure we are permitted to present to the public these important
+documents, now printed for the first time, and only regret that the
+shortness of time allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later
+some minor corrections.
+
+We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don José
+Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San
+Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan
+Manuel de Ayala.
+
+Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He
+entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made
+Alférez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alférez de Navio, June 15, 1769;
+Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776;
+and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782.
+
+When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala
+was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz in
+August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by
+Viceroy Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner
+Sonora. The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the
+commander of the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad.
+Ayala was ordered to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to San
+Blas with the unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days
+later.
+
+In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New
+Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and
+until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In
+August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the
+San Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to
+Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal
+order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of
+his services to California. He died December 30, 1797.
+
+
+
+Zoeth S. Eldredge,
+E. J. Molera,
+Charles H. Crocker,
+
+San Francisco, August, 1909. - Committee.
+
+
+
+The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco
+
+by
+
+Zoeth S. Eldredge.
+
+
+
+The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement
+of California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to
+save the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of a
+monarch solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political
+exigencies of the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil
+governors sink into insignificance and become mere executives of the
+priestly will, while the heroic efforts of Junípero Serra to convert the
+natives, his courage in the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his
+unwearied devotion, make him the impelling factor in the colonization of
+California.
+
+Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into
+California strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of
+Fray Francisco Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junípero, that
+all historians turn for the account of the occupation. Fray Palou
+details the glorious life of the leader with whom he toiled; he
+eulogizes the worthy priest, the ardent missionary, as he passed up and
+down the length of the land, founding missions, planting the vine, the
+olive, and the fruit tree in a land whose inhabitants had often suffered
+from hunger; giving aid and comfort to the sick and weary and
+consolation to the dying. Indeed, the pictures of the padres are
+fascinating. The infant establishments planted by the church grew rich
+and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the administration of the
+priests and so generous their hospitality, that life in California in
+the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost dolce far
+niente existence.
+
+Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junípero drawn by Palou, the
+careful investigator will find that the impelling factor in the
+occupation of California was stern military necessity, not missionary
+zeal. From the time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the
+Pacific up to forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery,
+but more than two hundred years had passed and she had done nothing
+towards making good this right by settlement. The country was open to
+colonization by any nation strong enough to maintain and protect its
+colonies.
+
+Before relating the story of Portolá's march, let us consider for a
+moment the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other
+European nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it
+necessary to occupy the country.
+
+When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent
+his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his
+grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable
+route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from
+Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones,
+thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward,
+following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made a
+landfall on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape
+Mendocino. A sail of two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of
+California and New Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco.
+This route was charted by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for
+nearly three centuries was the one followed by the galleons of Spain
+sailing from Manila to Acapulco. The voyage across the Pacific was a
+long one and ships in distress were obliged to put about and make for
+Japan. A harbor on the coast of California in which ships could find
+shelter and repair damages was greatly desired. A survey of the unknown
+coasts of the South Sea, as it was called, was ordered, and it was also
+suggested that the explorations be extended beyond the forty-second
+degree of north latitude, it being held that the coast was a part of the
+same continent as that of China, or only separated therefrom by the
+narrow strait of Anian, which was believed to open in latitude
+forty-two.
+
+Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California
+was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by
+his chief pilot, Bartolomé Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as far
+north as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the
+entrance to the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible
+storms in San Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died.
+Ferrelo took command and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in
+honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain.
+
+On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden
+Hinde, took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's
+Bay. He took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth,
+and named it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain
+Fletcher writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have
+some affinity with our own country." It was in this place and at this
+time that the first English service was held in America, by Master
+Francis Fletcher, chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in
+Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, commemorates the event.
+
+Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship,
+supplied himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the
+Southeast Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the
+25th sailed across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good
+Hope.
+
+In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was
+directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather
+would permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land
+and the harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all
+that he accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he
+accomplished anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude
+37° 30' (Pillar Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that
+the mountains[1] were without snow, and that there were many indications
+of rivers, bays, and havens along the coast.
+
+In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermeñon, a Portuguese sailor in the service
+of Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of
+Gali. In an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San
+Agustin. It is supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was
+beached in Drake's Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a
+boat, called a viroco, and in this the ship's company of more than
+seventy persons continued the homeward voyage. The little vessel reached
+Puerto de Navidad in safety, and here the commander and part of the
+company left it in charge of the pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of
+ten men, who brought it into Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; a
+most remarkable voyage of nearly twenty-five hundred miles by
+shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded into an open boat. With the
+loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the California coast by laden
+ships from the Philippines came to an end.
+
+Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis
+de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to
+the exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of
+the land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at the
+expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and
+trade, together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually
+given to the pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for
+the expedition were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader
+and his partners in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the
+courts. Before a decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge
+ordered the other partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to
+begin the voyage to the Californias within three months. Under this
+order, Vizcaino applied to Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission
+to make the journey. This was the condition of affairs when, on October
+5, 1596, Velasco was relieved and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zúñiga y
+Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took command. At Velasco's request, Zúñiga
+made a careful examination of all matters pertaining to the expedition
+to the Californias, and the result was not favorable to Vizcaino. The
+new viceroy did not think that an enterprise which might involve results
+of such vast importance should be entrusted to the leadership of a
+person of such obscure position and limited capital. He also doubted if
+Vizcaino had the resolution and capacity necessary for so great an
+undertaking, and it appeared to him that if disorders should arise among
+his men through lack of discipline, or if the natives of the country to
+which he was going should repel him, the repute and royal authority of
+the king would be in danger. On the other hand, there was the decision
+of the court, the concession of the viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino
+had already been at expense in the matter. Zúñiga communicated his
+doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his perplexity, submitted the
+question to a theologian and a jurist, selected as the viceroy writes,
+from the number of those whose opinions were entitled to the greatest
+consideration. Their decision was that the concession of the viceroy had
+the force of an agreement and contract; that what was at first a favor
+had become a right, and that, as the captain had manifested no
+incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact could not be
+varied. The audiencia[2], before whom Zúñiga also laid the matter, was
+of like opinion. In view, therefore, of the length to which the affair
+had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul the contract but to do all
+in his power to insure the success of the expedition. That Vizcaino's
+soldiers might respect and esteem him, the viceroy clothed him with
+authority and showed him the greatest honor. He required Vizcaino to
+furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories of the ships and
+lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails and tackle, the
+number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, ammunition, and all
+other property, and he instructed the royal officers at Acapulco that
+the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was fully provided
+with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of the people.
+The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zúñiga's report, ordered him to
+cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for the
+expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino had
+sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six
+hundred tons; the San José, a smaller ship, under command of Captain
+Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in
+March, 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast of
+Colima, where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this
+point the watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that
+Vizcaino complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the
+conduct of his soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape
+Corrientes, thence northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan.
+From Mazatlan he bore west-northwest across the Gulf of California and
+landed in a large bay which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as the
+Bay of Cerralbo. From here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named
+because of the peaceful character of the Indians, who received him
+hospitably with presents of fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is
+supposed, the place where Jimenez, the discoverer of California, lost
+his life in 1533, and where Córtez planted his ill-fated colony two
+years later. In entering the bay, the flagship ran on a shoal, and they
+were obliged to cut away her masts and lighten her of her cargo of
+provisions, a great part of which was wet and lost. Here Vizcaino landed
+and built a stockade fort, and leaving the dismantled flagship and the
+married men of his company under command of his lieutenant, Figueroa, he
+sailed on October 3rd, with the San José and the lancha and eighty men
+to explore the gulf. He encountered severe storms which separated his
+vessels, and not having proper discipline among his men, had trouble
+with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen men were lost by
+the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back to La Paz, where
+his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their comrades,
+demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions was
+running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the lancha,
+he sent them back, and with the San José and forty of the more
+adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the
+headwaters of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong
+north winds, and only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then
+yielding to the demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles
+of Mazatlan.
+
+The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, but
+he made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land
+double the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its
+seas abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds,
+in quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea;
+while in the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the
+northwest, were people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and
+silver ornaments, cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the
+country (turkeys), and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told him
+- not only in one place but in many. He desired permission to make
+another voyage, and as the late expedition had exhausted his own
+resources, asked that he be granted thirty-five thousand dollars from
+the royal treasury and outfitting for his ships. These advances he
+agreed to repay from the first gain received by him during the voyage.
+He also asked, on behalf of those who accompanied him, that the
+countries brought by him into subjection to the crown be given to them
+encomienda for five lives[3]; that they be made gentlemen and granted
+all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that other gentlemen enjoy,
+not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in Spain. For these and
+for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with five ships,
+equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, arms and
+ammunition, provisions, etc. - all things necessary for the voyage. He
+would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones and
+valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish taken,
+and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make
+discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take
+possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements,
+build forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one
+hundred leagues.
+
+Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as
+he had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council
+decided that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zúñiga
+favored Don Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council
+ordered that Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all
+necessary funds; it granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, and
+that the discoverers should have all the privileges of gentlemen
+throughout the Indies. It also granted other minor privileges and boons
+asked for. Vizcaino was made captain-general of the expedition, and
+sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, with orders to explore the coasts of
+the Californias from Cape San Lucas to Cape Mendocino, or as far north
+as latitude forty-two. His ships were the San Diego, flagship, the Santo
+Tomas, under Toríbio Gomez de Corvan, the Tres Reyes, a small fragata or
+tender, under Alférez Martin Aguilar, and a barcolongo for exploring
+rivers and bays[4]. The chief pilot of the expedition was Francisco
+Bolaños who had been one of the pilots with Cermeñon on the lost San
+Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites looked after the spiritual needs of
+the adventurers. The story of this second voyage of Vizcaino is well
+known. On the 10th of November, they were in the Bay of San Diego, which
+Vizcaino named for San Diego de Alcalá, whose day, November 14th, they
+spent in the bay, ignoring the name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo
+sixty years before. Later in the month he entered and named San Pedro
+bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, it
+was. He also named the islands still known as Santa Catalina and San
+Clemente. He next sailed through and named the Canal de Santa Barbara,
+which saint's day, December 4th, was observed while in the channel, and
+also named Isla de Santa Barbara and Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta
+de la Concepcion, which he named[5], Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a
+thick fog, which lifting on December 14th, revealed to the voyagers the
+lofty coast range usually sighted by the ships coming from the
+Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a river flowing from high
+hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To the mountains he gave
+the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of the Saint whose day
+(December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the stream he named Rio
+del Cármelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. Rounding a high wooded
+point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he dropped anchor in Monterey
+bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found the much desired harbor of
+refuge, and he named it for his patron, the Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino
+made the most of his discovery, and in a letter to the king, written in
+Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602[6], he gives a most glowing description
+of the bay, which is, at best, but an open roadstead. The Indians, as
+usual, told him of large cities in the interior, which they invited him
+to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. His provisions were almost gone,
+his men were sick with scurvy, of which many had died, and putting the
+most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he sent her to Acapulco for aid,
+and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the flagship and fragata, for the
+north. A storm soon separated the vessels and they did not see each
+other again until they met in the harbor of Acapulco. Vizcaino was told
+by the pilot, Bolaños, that Cermeñon had left in Drake's Bay a large
+quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he entered the bay on
+January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or cargo. He did not
+land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did not appear, he
+became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of her. On the
+13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. This was
+followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in
+latitude forty-two - the limit of his instructions - with Cape Blanco in
+sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, "towards
+Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six of his
+men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, where
+he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him,
+forty-two had died.
+
+In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied
+and provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He
+directed that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition.
+His orders were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan,
+whence he returned in 1613, and died three years later.
+
+For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the
+pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued
+to make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail
+down the coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge
+was established and no attempt was made to colonize the country.
+
+At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his
+possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection.
+Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had
+crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska,
+and their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into
+more southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was
+ready to turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The
+Family Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had
+aroused the ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved
+to demand an explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack
+her at home and abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was
+time for humbling the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet
+caused Pitt's resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power
+with vigor and arrogance unabated.
+
+On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree
+expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had
+established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de
+Portolá, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed
+governor of the Californias  and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five
+dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to
+dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the
+Franciscans.
+
+The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the
+northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take
+effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger of
+invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a
+person of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out so
+great an undertaking, Don José de Galvez, visitador-general of the
+kingdom and member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services
+and volunteered to go to Lower California and effect the organization
+and equipment of the expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and
+Galvez set out from the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on
+the coast of New Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken
+by a courier from the viceroy bringing orders just received from the
+court directing that a maritime expedition should be at once dispatched
+to Monterey and that port fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas on
+the 16th of May, 1768, the señor visitador laid before them the
+situation and the wishes of the king. He stated that on the exterior or
+occidental coasts of the Californias, Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas
+on the south to the Rio de los Reyes[7] in 43 degrees, though the only
+portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up to 30° 30'.[8] The civilized
+or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon - people of
+reason) did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, including
+the families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those of the
+miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to establish
+themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, they might
+fortify themselves there before the government could receive notice of
+it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New Spain
+there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built in
+San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small
+tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications
+between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted
+all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign
+invasion. All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present the
+commandant of the department and the army officers and pilots who
+chanced to be there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the
+San Carlos and San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships,
+while Galvez proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of
+supplies and provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid
+under contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions
+to be established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule
+herd; for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition by
+one by land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long
+sea-voyage should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don Gaspar
+de Portolá, volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named
+commander-in-chief. Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the
+presidio of Loreto, was appointed second in command. The troops were
+composed of forty cavalrymen from the presidio of Loreto in Lower
+California, under Rivera, and twenty-five infantrymen of the compania
+franca of Catalonia, under Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial
+troops were joined thirty Christian Indians from the missions, armed
+with bows and arrows. These were intended for the land expedition. The
+mission of Santa Maria, the northernmost mission on the peninsula, was
+the rendezvous of the land forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded
+with provisions for the land expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay
+of San Luis Gonzaga, the nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria,
+whither also went by land the troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the
+herd of every sort. Finding insufficient pasturage for the cattle at
+Santa Maria, they advanced to Velicatá, some thirty miles distant, and
+here was assembled the land expedition. In addition to the officers
+named, Don Miguel Costansó, ensign of royal engineers, was ordered to
+join the expedition as cosmographer and diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was
+appointed physician. To minister to the soldiers and take charge of the
+missions to be established in the new land, the following missionary
+priests, all of the college of San Fernando in Mexico, were named to
+accompany the expedition. Fray Junípero Serra, appointed president of
+the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, Fray Fernando Parron,
+Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez.
+
+On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was
+loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junípero Serra sang mass
+aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and the
+standards. The visitador named the Señor San José patron of the
+expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those
+about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans
+of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alférez
+Miguel Costansó, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The
+ship was commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy;
+the mate was Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two boys,
+four cooks, and two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's company -
+sixty-two in all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and sailed
+on the 10th. Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas - chief of the
+military expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of the
+soldiers on land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey[9]. On
+the 15th of February, Father Junípero performed like offices for the San
+Antonio, and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan Perez,
+"of the navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino and
+Gomez, some carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the sailors,
+made some ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The rendezvous was
+San Diego bay, where all were to meet.
+
+The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division,
+under Rivera, started from Velicatá March 24th, and the second, under
+command of the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre
+Crespi, Pilotin (Mate) Jose Cañizares. Twenty-five soldados de
+cuera[10], three muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians - forty-two
+men. With the governor marched Junípero Serra, fifteen soldados de
+cuera, under Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers
+and Indians - forty-four in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being
+Easter Sunday, Junípero established the Mission of San Fernando with
+Fray Miguel de la Campa as Minister. For the succor and relief of the
+forces, both sea and land, Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he
+named in honor of the protector of the expedition, the San Jose, and
+loading her with supplies and provisions, sent her with orders to meet
+the expedition at Monterey. She was lost at sea.
+
+There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles
+through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junípero's diary lies
+before me[11]; it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, the
+Indians they met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, etc.;
+no course, no distances traveled, or other like information necessary to
+an understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he is not to be
+compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight of the sea
+at the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was by the sea
+until they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San Diego, their
+Indian allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the Diegueños, whom
+they began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally lot. They
+thronged the camp and became a perfect nuisance with their begging and
+stealing. They begged from Junípero his robe and from the governor his
+cuera, waistcoat, breeches, and all he had on. One of them succeeding in
+inducing Junípero to take off his spectacles to show them to him and as
+soon as he got them in his hands made off with them, causing the priest
+a thousand difficulties to recover them. On the 27th of June Sergeant
+Ortega, with his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and announced to the
+anxious camp the proximity of the governor. Rivera sent ten of his
+soldiers with fresh horses back with Ortega, and Portolá, in advance of
+his command, reached the camp June 29th, and the entire division
+arrived, June 30th, in good order and condition, forty-six days from
+Velicatá.
+
+Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other
+divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the
+placid waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more
+formidable than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when on
+the 11th of April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and
+dropped her anchor not far from the point where now the ferry boat for
+Coronado leaves the slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at
+the rendezvous. No attempt was made to land, for they were alone and
+dread scurvy had them in its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's
+company were sick. On the 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La
+Paz, with her company in even worse condition. All were sick, some had
+died, and only four sailors remained on their feet, aided in working the
+ship by such of the soldiers as were able to help. She had been driven
+far out of her course; had found herself short of water, and had to put
+into the island of Cedros to supply herself, and it was with the
+greatest difficulty she reached the bay of San Diego. The first thing to
+be done was to find good water and to minister to the sick. For this
+purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro Fages, Don Miguel Costansó,
+and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five men-soldiers, sailors, etc.,
+all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding up the shore, found, by
+direction of some Indians, a river of good mountain water at a distance
+of three leagues to the northeast. Moving their ships as near as they
+could, they prepared on the beach a camp, which they surrounded with a
+parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted two cannon. Within they made
+two large hospital tents from the sails and awnings of the ships, and
+set up the tents of the officers and priests. Then they transferred the
+sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, and the list of those
+able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The difficulties of their
+situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines and food had been
+consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the surgeon,
+himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand anxieties
+some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as the
+others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun burned
+them by day - alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, two or
+three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which had
+been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight
+soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of
+the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the
+care of the sick.
+
+There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of
+the fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none
+were discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At
+length, on the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on
+the beach that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and
+armed as they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera,
+fifty days from Velicatá, without the loss of a man or having a sick
+one; but they were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour
+left and were issuing two tortillas[12] per day to each man. Great was
+the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's
+force. It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This
+was done, and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known as
+"Old Town," where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. The
+surgeon, Pedro Prat, devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths
+continued, until of the ninety and more who had sailed from La Paz,
+two-thirds were laid under the sand of Punta de los Muertos[13]. It was
+now thought best to send one of the packets to San Blas to inform the
+viceroy and the visitador of the state of the expedition, and it was
+feared that if this were longer delayed, the ship would be unable to put
+to sea for lack of mariners. The San Antonio was selected for this
+purpose, and was prepared for sea, but as she was about to sail, the
+camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by the arrival of Portolá and the
+second division, sound in body, and with 163 mules laden with
+provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of the condition of
+affairs, and desirous that the señor visitador's orders concerning the
+sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain Vila of the San
+Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that he might pursue
+the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's officers,
+boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was not a
+sailor among the men offered by Portolá, he declined to go to sea under
+such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on
+board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight
+men only for a crew.
+
+The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to
+Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season
+should expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra
+closed by snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the
+sierras covered with snow on their arrival in April.
+
+On the 14th of July, Portolá began his march to Monterey, distant one
+hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega,
+with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan
+volunteers - all that could travel, Ensign Costansó, the priests, Crespi
+and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the missions
+of Lower California, and two servants - sixty-four in all. Both Fages
+and Costansó were sick with scurvy, but joined the command
+notwithstanding. The personnel of this expedition contains some of the
+best known names in California. Portolá, the first governor; Rivera,
+comandante of California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on
+the Colorado in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773,
+governor, 1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the
+Golden Gate and of Carquines Strait[14]; lieutenant and brevet captain,
+comandante of the presidio of San Diego, of Santa Barbara, and of
+Monterey; founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara and of the missions
+of San Juan Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the rank and file
+were men whose names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who gave his name
+to Amador county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of Governor
+Alvarado; José Raimundo Carrillo, later alférez, lieutenant, and
+captain, comandante of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and
+of San Diego, and founder of the great Carrillo family; José Antonio
+Yorba, sergeant of Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that
+name and grantee of the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota,
+José Ignacio Oliveras, José Maria Soberanes, and others.
+
+At San Diego, Portolá left the sick under the care of the faithful
+surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the
+San Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junípero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and
+Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California
+Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them a
+sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads[15] of
+provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portolá expedition started,
+Junípero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San Diego
+de Alcalá, the first mission established in Alta California. The deaths
+continued, and before Portolá's return in January, eight soldiers, four
+sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about twenty
+persons at the camp.
+
+We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship,
+San Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have seen,
+was lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San
+Antonio, the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, took
+with him one hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he
+concluded, to last him for six months.
+
+On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with six
+or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected the
+camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was
+frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante,
+with Fages, Costansó, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia
+volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with
+spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers;
+these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of
+pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers.
+The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the
+spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada).
+
+The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive
+and defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) and
+the adarga (shield)[16]. The first, being made in the form of a coat
+without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses of dressed
+deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very short range.
+The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on the left
+arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his horse
+against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used a
+species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with
+a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to
+cover the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding
+through the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms
+were the lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback,
+the broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costansó, who was
+an officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor
+of the presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they
+were men capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and
+active; "and it is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen
+in the world, and among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the
+service of the king."[17]
+
+It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train
+through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones.
+It was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next,
+and the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be
+traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be had.
+The distance made was from two to four leagues[18], and the command
+rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue caused
+by the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the wandering
+off of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costansó says that
+one of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their caballada
+(horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a country
+they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most
+incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover a
+coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any of
+these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many
+leagues, precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without
+any human effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense
+toil to gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled,
+remain of no service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the
+Spaniards made their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more
+fertile and pleasing as they progressed northward.
+
+The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became
+the Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the
+pretty valley where later was established the mission of San Luis Rey.
+They called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards
+transferred to a mission forty miles north of this place. The command
+rested here, July 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San
+Onofre), whose base they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it
+seemed to threaten their advance, but by keeping close to the shore,
+they held their way, and on the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of
+water running through a mesa at the foot of a sierra, whence looking
+across the sea, they could descry Santa Catalina Island. This was San
+Juan Capistrano, and here they rested on the 25th. On the 28th they
+reached the Santa Ana river, near the present town of that name; a
+violent shock of earthquake which they experienced caused them to name
+the river Jesus de los Temblores[19]. July 30th and 31st they were in
+the San Gabriel valley, which they called San Miguel, and on August 1st
+they rested near the site of the present city of Los Angeles. The stop
+this day, in addition to the needed rest and the necessity for
+exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers and people of the
+expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciúncula.[20] The priests
+said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon the
+soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with which
+the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles
+river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra
+Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula[21]. Passing up the river, they
+went through the cañon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they
+called Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos - Valley of St. Catherine
+of the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa
+Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo cañon, they came to the Santa
+Clara river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th.
+Portolá named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor
+of the saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days,
+by easy jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th
+at the first rancheria[22] of the Channel Indians. It being the vespers
+of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Señora, Portolá named the village
+La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed houses of
+clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. These
+Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and very
+skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles.
+Portolá thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de
+Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission
+of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them
+kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made
+boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with
+cords and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each.
+The next four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th,
+at a large laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was
+the site of the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere
+were large populous rancherías of the Indians, and everywhere they were
+received in the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than
+they could eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of
+a large lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was a
+large ranchería, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon.
+Portolá gave to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherías de
+Mescaltitan - The Contiguous Rancherías of Mescaltitan. The name of
+Mescaltitan is still attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly
+drained and contains some of the finest walnut groves in California. On
+the 28th, they turned Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place
+called by them Paraje de los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five
+miles beyond, preserves the name. On the 30th they crossed a large
+river, which they named the Santa Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose
+day it was. This is now the Santa Inez, so called from the mission of
+that name, established on its bank in 1804. Passing northward along the
+beach, a sharp spur of the sierra jutting out at Point Sal turned them
+inland through the little pass followed by the Southern Pacific Coast
+Line, and they came, on September 10th, to a large lake in the northwest
+corner of Santa Barbara county, to which was given the name of Laguna
+Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. Three leagues beyond, they camped at
+a lake named by Costansó, Laguna Redonda, but which the soldiers called
+El Oso Flaco - The Thin Bear - and it is still known by that name. Here
+Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and ten of the soldiers complained of
+sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on the 4th reached the mouth of
+the San Luis cañon. Here they were hospitably received by the chief of a
+large ranchería, whose appearance caused the soldiers to apply to him
+the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor hanging from his neck.
+Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the soldiers applied to
+the chief, his ranchería, and to the cañon leading up to San Luis
+Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many cases the
+good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint has
+been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount
+Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying
+qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow cañon
+of San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and
+city of San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the
+Sierra de Santa Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley,
+whence the march to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the
+west and followed the Cañada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which
+they called El Estero de San Serafin. The Cañada de los Osos[23], still
+so called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears,
+one of which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls.
+Another wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their
+lives.
+
+The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came to
+a point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa
+Lucia. This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars,
+blocks the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three
+thousand feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portolá
+sent out the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the
+mountains. During the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way
+into the sierra through San Carpóforo cañon, and on the 16th the command
+moved up the steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on
+either side. It is impossible to follow their route through this rugged
+mountain range with any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and
+painful. On the 20th, they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the
+north, and from its summit the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea of
+mountains, "presenting," writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor
+travelers worn out with the fatigue of the journey." The cold was
+beginning to be severe, and many of the men were suffering from scurvy
+and unfit for service, which increased the hardship for all; yet they
+did not falter but pressed bravely on, and on the 26th emerged from the
+mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they named the Cañada del Palo
+Caido[24] (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and camped on the Salinas river,
+which they christened Rio de San Elizario. From now on the march is an
+easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea.
+
+On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the
+Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see it.
+They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of
+Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably
+that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the
+voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno.
+The governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part
+of the coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers,
+explored the coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the
+very port they were seeking, while Portolá, with Costansó, Crespi, and
+five soldiers, climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada,
+the northern point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore
+northwest at a distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south a
+hill ran out into the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be
+wooded with pines. They recognized the one on the north as the Punta de
+Año Nuevo and that on the south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two
+lay the great ensenada[25], with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid
+down in the coast pilot (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the
+famous port of Monterey?
+
+They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit
+they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was
+continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between
+it and another point to the south (Point Cármelo) was a small ensenada,
+where a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into an
+estero; that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they
+were obliged to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra
+which compelled them to leave the coast on the 16th of September.
+
+Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of
+officers to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday,
+October 4th, the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid
+the matter before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of
+provisions, the seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the
+excessive burden of labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care of
+the animals, and continual explorations, and to the lateness of the
+season. In view of these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of
+Monterey could not be found where it was said to be, each person present
+was called upon to express freely his opinion.
+
+Costansó spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37°; they had only
+reached 36° 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37° 30', so as
+either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for going
+up to 37° or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish
+themselves somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go
+forward and put his trust in God. If they found the desired port of
+Monterey and therein the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If
+Monterey did not appear, they would find a place for a settlement; but
+if it should be the will of God that all were to perish, they would have
+discharged their duty to God and man in laboring until death in their
+endeavor to accomplish the enterprise on which they had been sent. To
+this decision all agreed, and signed their names to the compact.
+
+Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and
+locate camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of
+October, the march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of
+their limbs. Each night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they
+were put into hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried
+in the mode of travel used by the women of Andalusia[26]. The march was
+slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last
+extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to
+three, who were thought to be dying.
+
+On this day they crossed the Rio del Pájaro, which they named because of
+a great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which
+measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of
+the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were
+preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the
+approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on
+hand, gave the river the name La Señora Santa Ana, but again the saint
+was ignored, and the river is known as the Pájaro (Bird). On the 17th
+they crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the
+present city of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Año Nuevo,
+and camped at the entrance of the cañon of Waddell creek. They
+recognized Point Año Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno,
+and Crespi estimated that it was one league distant from the camp. With
+good water and fuel, the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both
+Portolá and Rivera were now added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables
+had given out and the rations were reduced to five tortillas of bran and
+flour per day. Crespi named the camp San Luis Beltran, while the
+soldiers called it La Cañada de Salud. On the 23d, they again moved
+forward, passing Punta de Año Nuevo and, traveling two leagues, camped
+probably on Gazos creek, where was a large Indian ranchería, whose
+inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which was about opposite
+Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan Nepomuceno[27]. The
+next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San
+Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an
+epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw
+their end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea
+seemed to relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers
+began to be less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de
+los Cursos, and Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable
+to travel on the 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th,
+they pressed forward. The next stop was Purisima creek, two short
+leagues distant, but the way was rough, and the pioneers had to make
+roads across three arroyos where the descents were steep and difficult
+for the transportation of the invalids. On the bank of the stream was an
+Indian ranchería, apparently deserted. The Spaniards took possession of
+the huts, but soon came running forth with cries of "las pulgas! las
+pulgas![28]" They preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called
+the camp Ranchería de las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the
+28th they camped on Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon
+Bay. They named the camp El Llano de los Ansares - The Plain of the Wild
+Geese - and Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the
+command was ill; the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food
+very short. They contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it
+rained heavily and Portolá, who was very ill, decided to rest on the
+29th. On Monday, October 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and
+Pillar Point were noted but no names given. Several deep arroyos were
+crossed, some of which required the building of bridges to get the
+animals over. They proceeded up the shore until a barrier of rock
+confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in a rincon (corner)
+formed by the sierra and. sheltered from the north wind they camped
+while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over the
+Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they
+named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and
+other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta del
+Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the
+Montara fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers
+had prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and
+at ten o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the
+exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous
+sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them,
+bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing in
+the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea,
+rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left,
+west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally
+along the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what
+appeared to be the mouth of an inlet. There could be not mistake. The
+distant point was the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahía ó
+Puerto de San Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in
+their hearts they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the
+San Pedro valley[29] at the foot of the Montara mountains.
+
+Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind
+but would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To
+settle the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine
+the country as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to
+report, while the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta
+de las Almejas del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the
+two names of the camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp
+in San Pedro valley.
+
+The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass
+some of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They
+climbed the mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall
+reported that they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense
+estero or arm of the sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as
+the eye could reach, stretching to the southeast; that they had seen
+some beautiful plains thickly covered with trees, while the many columns
+of smoke rising over them showed that they were well stocked with Indian
+villages. This story confirmed them in the belief that they were at the
+Port of San Francisco, and that the estero described was that spoken of
+by Cabrera Bueno, the mouth of which they imagined they had seen from
+the Montara mountains[30]. They were now satisfied that Ortega would be
+unable to reach Point Reyes, and that three days was not sufficient time
+to go around the head of such an estero. The exploring party returned in
+the night of November 3d, discharging their fire-arms as they
+approached. They reported that they found themselves obstructed by
+immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily far back into the land[31],
+but what caused their rejoicing was that they understood from the signs
+of the Indians that at two days journey from where they were there was a
+port in which a ship was anchored. On this announcement, some thought
+that they were at the port of Monterey, and that the supply ship San
+Jose or the San Carlos was waiting for them. Crespi says that if they
+were not in Monterey, they were certainly in San Francisco.
+
+On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in
+whose honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in
+the Port of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que
+Dios guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this
+little valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father
+San Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded
+on the nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, in
+better spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their
+march at one o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up
+the beach, they turned into the mountains on their right, and from the
+summit beheld the immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into
+the Cañada de San Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and
+traveling two leagues camped in the cañada at the foot of a hill, very
+green with low brush, and having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next
+two days they traveled down the cañada, coasting the estero, which they
+could not see for the low hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the
+pleasant land with its groves of oak, redwood (palo colorado), and
+madroño. They saw the tracks of many deer and also of bears. The Indians
+met them with friendly offers of black tamales and atole, which were
+gladly received by the half-starved Spaniards. They begged the strangers
+to go to their rancherías, but the governor excused himself, saying that
+he must go forward, and dismissed them with presents of beads and
+trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end of the cañada, which suddenly
+turned to the east, and saw that the estero[32] was finished in a
+spacious valley. To the cañada they gave the name of San Francisco[33].
+Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep
+arroyo, whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately
+into the estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site
+of Stanford University[34].
+
+Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route,
+Portolá now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four days
+in which to explore the country and find the port containing the
+supply-ship.
+
+Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the
+neighboring rancherías, set out after noon on November 7th and returned
+in the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port
+or ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the
+Indians had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could
+not be in advance. They also reported that the country they had seen
+towards the north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for
+the reason that the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, were
+hostile and would dispute the passage. They said that they had
+encountered another immense estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait),
+which also ran far inland and connected with the one on the southeast,
+and that to double it would take many leagues of travel[35].
+
+During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were
+compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much
+suffering from indigestion and fever.
+
+Portolá called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the
+best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point
+of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which
+they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the
+command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by the
+route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of
+Pines at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild
+geese which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the
+coast. The following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of
+Pines and camped in the cañada of the Cármelo, where was plenty of wood
+and good water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor
+sent ten soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian
+pioneers, who undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with
+instructions to thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the
+Port of Monterey was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa
+Lucia.
+
+The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They
+were tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and
+they reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that
+the mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was
+no passage along the shore.
+
+Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa
+Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a
+station for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence
+they make a landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all
+winds * * * and is thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of
+gentle disposition, peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like
+that of Castile, and hemp, and cotton,"[36] etc.
+
+The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port,
+protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the Rio
+Cármelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but
+lagunillas; "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile,
+who raised flax and hemp and cotton?" Costansó says that in their entire
+journey, they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people more
+wild and savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is not
+strange that Portolá failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada,
+Vizcaino's Famoso Puerte de Monterey.
+
+The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply
+was almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the
+Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on
+December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found
+the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding
+it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen
+half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming
+excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited
+free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all
+might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, the
+junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the
+provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the
+mules for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better
+to divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San
+Diego. Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented
+difficulties. The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the
+governor announced his determination. They would return to San Diego at
+once, he said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the
+whole expedition would be lost.
+
+A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of
+December 9th, delaying the march.
+
+On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before
+leaving Cármelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the
+shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig;
+at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a bottle
+and buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the
+expedition, its commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the
+channel of Santa Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage of
+the Santa Lucia mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point
+Reyes, etc.
+
+"The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros
+intervened which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go
+around, and other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of
+provisions), made it necessary for us to return, believing that the Port
+of Monterey might perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and
+thinking that we might have passed it without observing it. We left the
+estero of San Francisco on our return on the 11th of November. We passed
+the Punta de Año Nuevo on the 19th of said month, and reached the second
+time this Port and Ensenada de Pinos on the 27th of the same."
+
+It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for
+the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it,
+their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows the
+latitude at various points as observed by Costansó. It requests the
+commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them,
+should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of
+the expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible,
+that the expedition might sight and obtain succor from them.
+
+The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half,
+and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another
+cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they
+ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming.
+They killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and
+on the 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers
+stole flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided the
+remainder among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a
+mudhole near San Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it was
+a feast day[37]. On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here,
+among the Channel Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were
+over, and the health of the command improved daily. Instead of following
+up the Santa Clara river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, into
+the San Fernando valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river,
+crossed the Santa Ana, January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24,
+1770, with the command in good health and without the loss of a man,
+"with the merit of having been compelled to eat the flesh of male and
+female mules, and with not having found the Port of Monterey, which we
+judged to have been filled up by the great sand dunes which were in the
+place where we had expected to find it."[38]
+
+Portolá found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had
+died, and Junípero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy.
+No tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a
+careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicatá
+in case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be
+exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of
+March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure,
+very much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera
+was sent to Velicatá with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to
+bring up the cattle and supplies that had been left there.
+
+After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a sail
+appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to
+prevent the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, and
+Portolá prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of
+Monterey. Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of
+the search were related to him, that the place where they erected the
+second cross was the long-lost Port of Monterey.
+
+On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junípero,
+Costansó, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th,
+Portolá set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven
+soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego
+was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers
+Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as
+guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with
+supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle.
+
+Portolá followed the same route that he took on the retreat from
+Monterey, and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de
+Pinos, near the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place
+for the camp, Portolá took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and
+went to the cross to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found
+around the cross a ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which
+were decked with feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them,
+while at the foot of the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As
+Portolá, Fages, and Crespi walked along the beach and looked out over
+the bay and noted its calm and placid waters, with its swimming seals
+and spouting whales, they broke forth with one voice, "This is the Port
+of Monterey which we have sought. It is exactly as reported by Sebastian
+Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."[39]
+
+Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Cármelo, Portolá
+ordered the expedition to Cármelo Bay by direct line, while he, with
+Fages and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it
+well covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a
+ship. They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress
+Point), and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they
+awaited the arrival of the San Antonio.
+
+On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made
+signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had
+dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors
+to be a most famous port.
+
+On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where,
+in 1602, Vizcaino's Cármelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de
+Portolá, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition,
+Fray Junípero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the
+San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with
+the crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father
+president chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the
+musical deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns of
+the San Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the
+conclusion of the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portolá, governor
+of the Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his
+majesty Don Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of
+San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the
+first presidio and second mission in California.
+
+In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portolá now
+delivered to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command
+of the new establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San
+Blas, and California knew him no more.
+
+
+
+[1] Sierra de Santa Lucia.
+
+[2] Audiencia, the highest judicial body.
+
+[3] The system of encomienda conferred feudal rights upon the
+discoverers. The Indians became vassals of Spanish lords.
+
+[4] Vizcaino says he set out on the discovery of the coast of the South
+Sea with two ships, a lancha, and a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small
+vessel having no deck and but one mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas
+calls the vessel a fragata. A barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long
+open boat.
+
+[5] The second voyage of Vizcaino is of particular interest to
+Californians for the reason that the names given by him to the various
+geographical features of the coast still remain. The particulars of the
+first voyage are taken largely from the publications of the Southern
+California Historical Society of documents in the Sutro collection.
+
+[6] Sutro Col. Pub. Southern California Hist. Socy.
+
+[7] Prof. George Davidson identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River
+in 42° 25'.
+
+[8] About Cape San Quintin, the latitude of their northernmost mission.
+
+[9] Instruccion qua ha de observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro
+Pages, 5 enero de 1769. Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish
+Archives of California.
+
+[10] So-called from the cuera, a leathern jacket worn by them as a
+defensive armor.
+
+[11] Out West. March-July, 1902.
+
+[12] Pancakes.
+
+[13] Dead Men's Point. The name has disappeared from the modern maps,
+but is found on all of the old ones. It is the foot of H street where
+the cars for the Coronado ferry turn on to the wharf.
+
+[14] I am well aware that this claim will be disputed by one whose study
+of original documents and power of analysis make him perhaps the
+greatest authority on early California History; but I am nevertheless
+prepared to maintain my position.
+
+[15] Carga, 275 lbs.
+
+[16] Hence the presidial soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so
+distinguished from soldiers of the regular army.
+
+[17] Diario Historico de los viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte
+de la California. Ms. Original in Sutro Library.
+
+[18] The league is the Spanish league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles.
+
+[19] They also gave it the name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th,
+they had just observed.
+
+[20] Sometimes called the Grand Pardon of Assisi - the great indulgence
+of the Franciscans. Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church of
+Our Lady of the Angeles of Porciúncula, it was, by apostolic indult,
+expanded to accompany the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is
+enough for him to erect an altar and that altar will be to him St. Mary
+of the Angels, and he will there find the Porciúncula of the
+revelations. Whoso confesses and receives the sacrament in the church of
+Porciúncula is granted plenary remission of his sins in this world and
+the next. This indulgence is only for August 2nd - that is, from the
+afternoon of August 1st until sunset of August 2nd.
+
+[21] It is to this incident that the city of Los Angeles owes its name.
+The full baptismal name of the city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los
+Angeles - Our Lady the Queen of the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by
+royal order, the second pueblo established in California.
+
+[22] Ranchería is the name given to an Indian village or town.
+
+[23] The Valley of the Bears.
+
+[24] The diarists applied the word cañada to either a cañon or an open
+valley.
+
+[25] The word ensenada, much used by the Spanish explorers, means a
+bight or open roadstead, not an enclosed and protected bay.
+
+[26] "Transportar en Xamus al Modo que cominan las mujeres en
+Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California, ii. 181.
+
+[27] The names given on this portion of the route have all disappeared,
+but are here given as a suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad.
+
+[28] The Fleas.
+
+[29] It must be borne in mind that what they called the Bay or Port of
+San Francisco was that stretch of water reaching from Point Reyes to
+Point San Pedro and later known as the Gulf of the Farallones.
+
+[30] Professor George Davidson says that what was seen by Portolá from
+the Montara mountains was the break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep
+narrow valley which runs straight from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay,
+fourteen miles.
+
+[31] The Golden Gate and Bay of San Francisco.
+
+[32] The Bay of San Francisco continued to be called the "Estero," until
+some time after Colonel Anza established the presidio and mission of San
+Francisco in 1776.
+
+[33] The present name, Cañada de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov.
+30, 1714.
+
+[34] On November, 1774, Rivera came up the peninsula on an exploring
+expedition and on the spot where he had camped with the first expedition
+in 1769, he planted a cross to mark the place for a mission. In March,
+1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, coming to select sites for the
+Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, notes this cross on the bank of
+the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San Francisquito creek), about one
+hundred paces above the great redwood tree, and says the plan for a
+mission there was abandoned because the creek was dry in summer. I note
+this explanation because an excellent authority has located Portolá's
+camp on Redwood creek.
+
+[35] I give to Ortega the credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the
+Straits of Carquinez. The testimony seems sufficient to me.
+
+[36] Vizcaino to the King, May 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern
+California, Vol. ii, Part 1.
+
+[37] On the day of the Holy Innocents it was not possible to say mass.
+We are sorry for it, because it is the only feast day in all the journey
+up to the present that we have been without mass. We are stuck in a mud
+hole and are unable to move from the place where we are all wet through,
+and it is not possible to make a journada to a plain that is dry for
+this is bubbling up water - Crespi, Diario.
+
+[38] Crespi: Diario.
+
+[39] Palou: Noticias de la Nueva California.
+
+
+
+Data Regarding Don Gaspar de Portolá After He Left California
+
+by
+E. J. Molera
+
+
+
+Portolá and Costansó sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to the
+viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costansó remained in the
+capital and took part in several engineering works, among others, the
+map of the Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted
+by the writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portolá's further history,
+has so far discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's return
+to the capital was followed by promotion from Captain to
+Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as
+Governor of Puebla, February 23, 1777.
+
+In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio
+covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portolá's
+taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state:
+
+"Possession of Governor Portolá."
+
+"In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal
+title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his
+Majesty to Señor Don Gaspar de Portolá, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal
+Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor,
+and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said
+title has been forwarded."
+
+"The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in
+his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from the
+king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its
+contents and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel
+Don Gaspar de Portolá be given possession of said office, and for that
+purpose, said noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him
+to this hail of sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having
+certified to his identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the
+office of Governor, doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the poor
+with excessive taxes; to keep and cause to be kept, the rights,
+privileges, royal decrees and ordinances, etc."
+
+"Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal
+justice, by which the act of possession was completed."
+
+In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portolá as
+Governor of Puebla.
+
+That in the year 1779, Portolá was still Governor of Puebla is proved by
+two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular
+official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the
+death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith;
+the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portolá, dated April 17th, 1779.
+
+
+
+Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving an
+Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos,
+Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco.
+Document Obtained from the Archives of the Indies, Seville.
+
+
+
+"My Dear Sir:"
+
+"By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal
+packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don
+Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor
+of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th
+inst. at San Blas."
+
+"In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made
+by this officer and his pilot, Don José Cañizares, your Excellency will
+see, in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained
+gives knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities
+that is has to invernate[40] vessels. The docility and gentle manners of
+the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the utility of
+the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing this
+land."
+
+"The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms
+everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water,
+wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is
+rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey."
+
+"He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the
+merit of the pilot, Don José Cañizares, in discharging the commission
+entrusted to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve
+to that of the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency
+that you remind His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful
+that the Department of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made
+has always shown the same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the one
+just finished with such advantage to the service, because of the
+information and knowledge he has shown in the discharge of his duty."
+
+"For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as
+Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such
+important work."
+
+"That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish."
+
+"Exm°. Sr."
+
+"Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands,"
+
+"Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua."
+
+"Mexico, November 26th, 1775. "
+"To His Excellency
+Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga."
+
+
+
+[40] Invernate - to winter.
+
+
+
+Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by Sea
+to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of
+California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco.
+
+
+
+Father Junípero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages
+the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and
+notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico
+to lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego in
+the mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in
+Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773.
+
+Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he
+considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but
+little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official
+business, had not an outside incident given them force.
+
+Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg,
+communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring
+the coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the
+newspapers of the Russian capital[41]. This news with the corroborating
+proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts of April 11th and
+September 23, 1773.
+
+The result of this information was to give a better organization to the
+maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California.
+It was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco;
+that better means of communication be established between San Diego and
+Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the
+Russians had made settlements on the coast of California.
+
+
+
+[41] Manuel Orozco y Berra, Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an
+Mexico, Anales del Ministerio de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo
+VI, p. 269. Documents in the Archives of the Indies, Seville.
+
+
+
+The Log of the San Carlos
+
+Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece)
+
+Under Command of
+
+Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel de Ayala
+
+From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco
+
+-
+
+The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a
+Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at
+Seville, Spain[42].
+
+-
+
+
+
+On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de
+Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in
+the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to
+the west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don
+Bruno de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don
+Juan de la Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command
+of the packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manríque, was
+sick and unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited
+until the morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which
+carried his predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board
+to follow the frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the
+expedition, Don Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar
+and provisions which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck
+where they were liable to be damaged.
+
+At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the
+wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela
+Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in sight
+of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the
+southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds
+and calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable
+progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain
+some water to replace that which had been consumed[43]. The pilot could
+not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On April
+2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day he
+came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on
+board the governor of California[44]. From the Concepcion Ayala obtained
+six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious accident happened to
+the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, he had a number of
+loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they could not injure
+anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the bullet entering
+the commander's foot between the second and third toes, coming out under
+the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed.
+
+On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about
+two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about
+twelve leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress
+northward was very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch
+to calk the launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great
+damage was done. On the same day indications of land were noted and some
+whales were seen, which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On
+the following day they saw some seals, which, according to the sailors,
+was the second sign of land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which,
+they say, is proof positive of land being near. On the same day land was
+sighted at 4 p. m.; the North Farallones of San Francisco were seen to
+the north and Point Año Nuevo to the southeast. At 7 p. m., the South
+Farallones were seen at a distance of about two leagues to the
+northeast. The variation of the needle was observed and found to be 13°
+E.
+
+Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Año
+Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At
+noon the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36° 58'.
+At 3 p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could
+not be seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at 5
+p. m. they saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The
+variation of the needle was observed and found to be 12° 58' E. They had
+some difficulty in finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy
+bottom.
+
+On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail
+and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast.
+
+Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which
+time he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails
+and repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under
+water at the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half
+yards.
+
+He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco.
+
+-
+
+Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36°° 33',
+longitude 16° 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San
+Francisco, July 26, 1775.
+
+That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a
+contrary direction.
+
+On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the
+range of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction[45]. At
+noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13° distant five miles; at 3 p.
+m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Año Nuevo came
+in sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant.
+From July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of
+contrary winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was
+seen to the east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was
+found to be Point Año Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view
+bearing north 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was
+considered to be Point Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the
+San Carlos steered west-southwest and continued in that course until 8
+a. m. of the 4th, when the bearing was changed to the north-northeast.
+At noon the sun's altitude was taken and the latitude was found to be
+37° 11', and longitude 17° 51' W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th,
+the southernmost Farallon of the Port of San Francisco was seen to the
+northwest, distant about eight leagues. The land to the north was Point
+Reyes, bearing 4° W., distant about fourteen leagues. At half past
+eleven, considering the coast was near, the course was changed to the
+south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of August 5th, when it was changed again
+to the north-northeast 5° north to bring the ship at sunrise to the
+point it was at sunset of the day before. At 5 a. m. four of the
+Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north-northwest, distant
+four leagues. Point Año Nuevo was southeast 1/4 east from twelve to
+fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4° east, distant three
+leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala lowered the
+launch, and in it Pilot Cañizares was sent with ten men to search for an
+anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. At 9 a. m. a
+strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at eleven it was
+observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which convinced the
+commander that it was due to the tide, and this was confirmed by the
+soundings; in entering the port, as on the first occasion, the tide was
+going out, and on the second one the tide was coming in. The altitude of
+the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the utmost care, and the
+latitude was found to be 37° 42' and the longitude 17° 14' W. of San
+Blas. At this time Point Año Nuevo was about fourteen leagues distant to
+the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, distant four
+leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four leagues. The
+wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to the
+north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and bottom
+found at sixteen brazas[46] of mud and sand mixed, and distant from the
+mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at fifteen brazas,
+with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was continued and the
+bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The current was so
+great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a strong wind
+from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed them to go
+not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the current
+must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The swiftness
+of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and that night
+was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this was done
+with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it
+necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging
+might give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with a
+20-lb. lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either
+in the channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was
+realized that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike
+bottom. They continued thus until they were one league inside the mouth
+of the bay and a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind
+suddenly stopped. Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards
+the mouth, an anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast to
+the big mast so that if it did not catch the bottom it would not be
+lost. It was found that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made
+ready to drop in case the big one should drag. When the wind stopped and
+the current ceased, the vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas,
+with sandy bottom[47].
+
+At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset
+the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not
+come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the
+entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable
+harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he
+attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were
+such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried
+him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor
+he had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired
+out, made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out,
+with the same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw
+the packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in
+reaching her.
+
+At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which was
+to the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had
+sufficient water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of
+shelter then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing
+his anchor in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to
+the east, although the wind came from the landward which was about two
+leagues from the harbor[48]. He called this harbor "Carmeita," because
+in it was a rock resembling a friar of that order. There was in its
+vicinity an Indian village, the inhabitants of which came out from their
+huts and cried out and made signs for the vessel to go near them. As the
+sailors were taking soundings and came near the shore, the Indians
+erected a pole, at the top of which was a large number of feathers. The
+sailors having no orders to answer them, remained at a distance from the
+shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, that the sailors were afraid of
+them, endeavored to assure them by dropping their bows to the ground,
+and after describing a circle in the air with the arrows stuck them in
+the sand. The launch came on board again, and soon after, the Indians,
+from a point of land near the vessel, talked to the sailors with loud
+cries, and although their voices were heard distinctly, they could not
+be understood for want of an interpreter. At 9 the launch was sent again
+to another harbor to the north, which seemed to be better sheltered and
+to have better anchorage[49]. It was so, and when the launch returned at
+10, the pilot stated that he found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas,
+and the bottom was sticky with mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards
+the place examined, but a strong current prevented her reaching it. It
+was then decided to anchor in fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they
+stayed there all night, during which time the vessel moved on account of
+the bad quality of the anchors.
+
+On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and
+fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and
+the bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided
+to go to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary
+to return to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling
+to the men with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch
+with the priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must
+not molest the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for
+which purpose the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and
+ordered them to observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians
+showed fight they could easily return to the launch, where four armed
+men must always remain to protect the retreat. It is true that from the
+day when intercourse was first had with the Indians, it was seen how
+affable and hospitable they were, showing the greatest desire for the
+Spaniards to go to their village, where, they said, they could eat and
+sleep. They had already prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from
+their corn, and tomales of the same. During the time the Spaniards were
+with the Indians, they found that the latter repeated the Spanish words
+with great facility, and by signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go
+on board the packet boat, but the Indians, also by signs, signified that
+until the Spaniards should visit their village, they could not go on
+board. After a little while the Spaniards returned to the boat and the
+Indians disappeared.
+
+On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the
+bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report.
+
+On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near
+Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places
+were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island,
+which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter
+even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of
+the abundance of those birds that were on it.
+
+On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of
+water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don José
+de Cañizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a
+few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot,
+Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find
+the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send to
+San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but
+explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51].
+
+On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where
+they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to
+ask for bread in Spanish.
+
+From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay of
+San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don José de Cañizares was
+instructed to make his report and the map of the bay.
+
+On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage,
+but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had
+carried the vessel.
+
+From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the
+rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place
+on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day.
+
+In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox
+in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till
+October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on
+November 6th of the same year.
+
+
+
+[42] This is a summary of the document. A full translation would be too
+tedious for a work of this kind.
+
+[43] On the Tres Marias Islands.
+
+[44] Don Pedro Fages. Commandante of California, who had been recalled.
+
+[45] Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July
+24th. That was to make the sailing fit the Bancroft theories.
+
+[46] Braza - Fathom: Six feet.
+
+[47] Ayala anchored inside Port Point - the Presidio anchorage.
+
+[48] Richardson's Bay.
+
+[49] Angel Island.
+
+[50] Alcatraz  - Pelican
+
+[51] The Southern portion of the bay.
+
+
+
+Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San
+Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the
+Examination of the Port of San Francisco
+
+
+
+Your Excellency: - I have finished the orders under which I took command
+of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November
+6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco.
+
+Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination,
+together with the pilot, Don José Cañizares' report of his examination
+and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will,
+notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of
+San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from
+Cape Horn.
+
+After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor of
+Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo
+and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July
+27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived
+on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting
+by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that
+pertains to this matter.
+
+It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony
+that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh
+water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is
+healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in
+Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port,
+and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many
+advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians
+around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle
+in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several
+times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so that
+from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their
+behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit;
+the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language.
+
+There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us,
+enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was ordered
+of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my
+predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was
+possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken
+by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer
+of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don
+Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I
+remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the
+reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was
+convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d by
+the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel
+Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am
+satisfied that Don José Cañizares executed with his usual ability
+everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency
+(in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long
+as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed
+such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I
+found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty.
+
+On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I
+considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no
+wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring
+the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me
+to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and
+again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I
+noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because
+the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before had
+warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, I
+determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on the
+19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came
+October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my
+foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency.
+
+I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years.
+
+San Blas, November 9, 1775.
+
+Juan Manuel de Ayala.
+
+To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli.
+
+
+
+Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco
+
+Situated in Latitude 37° 53' North, Longitude 17° 10' West of San Blas
+
+by
+Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala
+
+
+
+Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude
+37° 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with
+two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three
+white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs
+north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five
+submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56],
+ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called
+Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest one
+a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient to
+accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom, but because
+it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the west-southwest.
+The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where a copious creek
+empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This harbor, with the one
+inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has been found very good,
+with the prevailing winds from the south to the northwest.
+
+From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are seen,
+distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a
+sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve
+leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to
+the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, this
+is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs
+east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the
+third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a low
+point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called
+Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth
+of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in
+a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three small
+rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter any
+vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and
+broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which
+and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San
+José, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this
+famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or
+leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos
+Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless
+the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the
+shores of San José Point.
+
+To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67]
+is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides the
+water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor,
+especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island
+where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of the
+island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a
+pistol-shot of the shore.
+
+To the east-northeast of Point San José there is a sheltered harbor,
+landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where
+water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no
+current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I
+consider, it one of the best anchorages.
+
+Once Points San José and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to
+leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any
+place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid
+is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its
+branches three miles.
+
+This report was made to me by Pilot Don José Cañizares, to whom I
+entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick.
+
+
+
+[52] Pt. San Pedro.
+
+[53] That is: Pt. Almejas or Pt. San Pedro.
+
+[54] Barranca: The dictionary definition is a ravine or gulch, but it
+also means a high bluff or cliff and in that sense is used by these
+explorers.
+
+[55] i. e.: from Pt. Almejas.
+
+[56] Cliff Rouse Rocks.
+
+[57] Punta del Angel de la Guarda - Point Lobos.
+
+[58] Seal Rocks.
+
+[59] Bakers Beach.
+
+[60]  Lobos Creek.
+
+[61] i. e.: Inside of Point San Jose - Fort Point.
+
+[62] Tamalpais
+
+[63] Point Bonita. The present name was given it in 1776.
+
+[64] Golden Gate Strait.
+
+[65] i. e.: The outer harbor; outside of the Golden Gate.
+
+[66] Lime Point.
+
+[67] Angel Island.
+
+[68] The Presidio anchorage.
+
+
+
+Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map
+
+-
+
+Report of the Pilot Don José de Cañizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala
+
+-
+
+Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the
+Indies at Seville.
+
+
+
+Dear Captain: - During the four times that I made reconnaissance of
+this Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and
+north-northeast what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the
+north-northeast of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay
+running in a direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance
+between the points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore
+line is about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore
+there are three small islands, forming between them and the shore a
+narrow passage of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all
+surrounded with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak,
+but at a distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems
+to be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with
+submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient
+water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its
+being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and
+anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current,
+which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69].
+
+North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where
+there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south
+ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes to
+another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight
+leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided
+into two channels, - one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to
+the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large
+harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's
+distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the
+northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about
+one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a
+large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the
+channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having
+three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a
+low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division made
+by the hills[74].  The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs
+directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the
+hills through a cañon that runs in the same direction.
+
+All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it is
+not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees,
+excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the
+southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect.
+Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water,
+and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not
+difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account
+of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its
+shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in
+the cañon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and
+a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a ranchería
+of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy
+anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me for
+that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was
+useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes
+(amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting
+them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time,
+noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and
+retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with
+good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many
+others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some
+scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they
+caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing
+with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than
+the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in
+this northern part.
+
+Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a
+harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and
+sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland
+ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called
+it Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of
+that saint[76].
+
+To the southeast of this port[77] the cañon continues, until it joins
+the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three leagues
+in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay[78] with a depth
+of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers[79] empty and
+take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the same as
+in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is the
+largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has
+many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in
+very low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their
+mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza.
+This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second
+occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on
+the bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than
+the Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult to
+obtain wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is
+covered with trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers,
+and impossible of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the
+north of Angel Island. To the southeast of said island following the
+estero is as follows:
+
+To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is
+another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth
+of the channel in two[80], through which the sea enters to a distance of
+about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some parts, one,
+two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its width
+ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not over
+two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a point,
+a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry[81]. In every part there are
+seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, bunches of tule,
+and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, since they are
+in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for three leagues
+inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the weather that
+strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against the strong
+current from the north.
+
+The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has
+in its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of thick
+redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough,
+navigable only by launches[82], and on the coast two harbors[83] where
+vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian village,
+rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better places
+for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance.
+
+All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed,
+and sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the
+reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as
+proof of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter
+of Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775.
+
+José de Cañizares.
+
+
+
+[69] This is the body of water between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt.
+Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. The high farallon is Red Rock.
+
+[70] The rocks are The Sisters and The Brothers.
+
+[71] San Pablo Bay.
+
+[72] Napa Slough. The marsh was evidently under water, and island number
+one, with Mare Island, made one long island.
+
+[73] Codo - 1 1/2 feet.
+
+[74] Mare Island. The division of the hills or cañon is Carquines
+Strait.
+
+[75] Carquines Straits.
+
+[76] The Assumption of the Virgin - August 15th. It is Southampton bay.
+
+[77] That is, from Puerto de la Asumpta.
+
+[78] Suisun Bay.
+
+[79] The Sacramento and San Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto
+Dulce - Freshwater Port.
+
+[80] Yerba Buena or Goat Island. Cañizaries marked it on the map (c) for
+isla do Alcatraces, but that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of
+the entry in the Log under date of August 12, with the map will show.
+
+[81] Oakland and Berkeley tide flats.
+
+[82] Islais creek.
+
+[83] Yerba Buena cove and Mission bay.
+
+
+
+Index of Places
+
+
+
+Acapulco
+Alcatraz Island
+Almejas, El Rincon de las
+Almejas, Punta del
+Angel Island
+Angel Point
+Año Nuevo, Punta de
+Arroyo de San Francisco
+Arroyo Seco
+Baker's Beach
+Barranca
+Ballenas Bay
+Bonita, Point
+Brazas
+California, Baja
+California, Gulf of
+Cañada
+Cañada do los Osos
+Cañada do San Andres
+Cármelo, Pt
+Cármelo, bay
+Cármelo, Rio del
+Carquines, strait
+Cerralbo, Bay of
+Codo
+Columbia river
+Concepcion, Laguna de la
+Concepcion, Point
+Diegueños
+Drake's Bay
+El Buchon
+El Oso Flaco
+Ensenada
+Farallones de San Francisco
+Farallones, Gulf of
+Florida
+Fort Point
+Golden Gate
+Golden Gate, strait
+Guadalupe, lake
+Islais creek
+Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de
+La Paz, Bay of
+La Paz, port of
+Lime Point
+Lobos creek
+Loreto, presidio of
+Los Angeles, City of
+Los Angeles, river
+Napa slough
+Mare Island
+Mendocino, Cape
+Mescaltitan
+Mission bay
+Montara mountains
+Monterey, Bay of
+Monterey, Port of
+Monterey, presidio and mission of
+Muertos, Punta de los
+Navidad, Puerto de
+Oakland Flats
+Pájaro, Rio del
+Pedernales, Point
+Philippine Islands
+Pilar Point
+Pinos, Punta de
+Porciúncula, Indulgence
+Puerto Dulce
+Punta del Angel de la Guarda
+Presidio anchorage
+Ranchería
+Reyes, Punta de los
+Reyes, Rio de los
+Richardson's bay
+Red Rock
+Ross, Fort
+San Blas
+San Buenaventura, mission of
+San Carlos, Point
+San Clemente, island
+San Corpóforo, cañon
+San Diego
+San Diego, bay
+San Diego, Founding of mission
+San Diego, presidio of
+San EIizario, Rio de
+San Fernando, valley
+San Francisco, Bahia ó Puerto de
+San Francisco, Bay of
+San Francisco, Port of
+San Francisco, creek
+San Gabriel, valley
+San Joaquin river
+San Jose, Point
+San Juan Capistrano, mission of
+San Lorenzo, Rio de
+San Luis Obispo
+San Luis Rey, mission of
+San Miguel (island)
+San Nicolas, Isla de
+San Pablo bay
+San Pedro bay
+San Pedro Point
+San Pedro valley
+Santa Ana, Rio de
+Santa Barbara Channel
+Santa Barbara Isla de
+Santa Barbara presidio of
+Santa Catalina, island
+Santa Clara, river
+Santa Inez, river
+Santa Lucia, Sierra de
+Santa Maria, mission of
+Santa Rosa, river
+Santa Susana, Sierra de
+Sacramento, river
+Sal, Point
+Salines, river
+Santiago, Point
+Seal Rocks
+Suisun bay
+Tamalpais, mountain
+The Brothers (rocks)
+The Sisters (rocks)
+Tomales bay
+Velicatá
+Yerba Buena cove
+
+
+
+Index of Persons
+
+
+
+Aguilar, Martin
+Aguirre, Juan B.
+Alvarado, Juan Bautista
+Amador, Pedro
+Anza, Juan Bautista de
+Arriaga, Julian de
+Ayala, Juan Manuel
+Bancroft, H. H.
+Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la
+Bolaños, Francisco
+Bucareli, Antonio Maria
+Bueno, Cabrera
+Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues
+Cañizares, José
+Carrillo, José Raimundo
+Cermeñon, Sebastian
+Coronado, Francisco Vasquez
+Cortes, Hernando
+Corvan, Toribio Gomez de
+Costansó, Miguel
+Cota, Pablo de
+Crespi, Juan
+Davidson, George
+De Gali, Francisco
+De Soto, Hernando
+Drake, Francis
+Estorace, Jorge
+Fages, Pedro
+Ferrelo, Bartolomé
+Figueroa, Rodriga de
+Fletcher, Francis
+Galvez, José de
+Gomez, Fray Francisco
+Griffin, George Butler
+Heceta, Bruno de
+Jiminez (Fortun)
+Laut, Agnes C.
+Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de
+Lummis, Chas. F.
+Maldonado, Gabriel
+Manrique, Miguel
+Mendoza, Antonio de
+Monterey, Conde de
+Morgana, Juan de
+Oliveros, José Ignacio
+Ortega, José Francisco
+Palou, Fray Francisco
+Perez, Juan
+Parron, Fray Fernando
+Pino, Miguel del
+Portolá, Gaspar de
+Prat, Pedro
+Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de
+Salcedo, Felipe
+Serra, Fray Junípero
+Soberanes, José Maria
+Vancouver, Captain George
+Velasco, Luis de
+Vila, Vicente
+Vizcaino, Fray Juan
+Vizcaino, Sebastian
+Yorba, José Antonio
+Zúñiga y Asevedo, Gaspar de
+
+
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