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diff --git a/4978-h/4978-h.htm b/4978-h/4978-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ac3a67 --- /dev/null +++ b/4978-h/4978-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3738 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The March of Portolá and the Discovery Of The Bay Of San Francisco, by + Zoeth S. Eldredge + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The March of Portolá + and, The Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents + Translated and Annotated + +Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +Release Date: March 20, 2009 [EBook #4978] +Last Updated: January 26, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + </h1> + <h2> + By Zoeth S. Eldredge + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + Log of the San Carlos and<br /> Original Documents Translated and Annotated + </h1> + <h2> + By E. J. Molera + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h5> + Published by the Reception Committee <br />of The California Promotion + Committee <br /><br /> This Book is published with the approval and <br />endorsement + of the Executive Committee of the Portolá Festival. + </h5> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <b>San Francisco</b> + </pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Serene, indifferent of fate, + Thou sittest at the Western Gate; + + Upon thy heights so lately won, + Still slant the banners of the sun; + + Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, + O warder of two continents, + + And scornful of the peace that flies, + Thy angry winds and sullen skies, + + Thou drawest all things, small or great, + To thee beside the Western Gate." + </pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_INTR"> Introduction </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE + BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLÁ AFTER HE + LEFT CALIFORNIA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to + Send an Expedition by </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander + of the Packet Boat San </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> Description of the Newly-discovered Port of + San Francisco </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, + with Map </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> Index of Persons </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> FOOTNOTES </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Introduction + </h2> + <p> + In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives of + heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record of Spanish + exploration in America. To those of us who have come into possession of + the fair land opened up by them, the story of their travels and adventures + have the most profound interest. The account of the expedition of Portolá + has never been properly presented. Many writers have touched on it, and H. + H. Bancroft, in his History of California, gives a brief digest of + Crespi's diary. Most writers on California history have drawn on Palou's + Vida del V. P. F. Junipero Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and + without looking further, have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We + have endeavored in this sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the + conditions which preceded and led up to the occupation of California. + </p> + <p> + The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific was + early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but small + respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World between + Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated expeditions + into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two ships to look in + Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea, one of which bore + the significant name of California. The voyage of Francis Drake, + 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay he proclaimed the + sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New Albion. Two hundred + years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver explored the coast of + California down to thirty degrees of north latitude (Ensenada de Todos + Santos), which, he says, "is the southernmost limit of New Albion, as + discovered by Sir Francis Drake, or New California, as the Spaniards + frequently call it." Even after the occupation and settlement by the + Spaniards, so feeble were their establishments that, as Vancouver reports + to the Admiralty, it would take but a small force to wrest from Spain this + most valuable possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain + presaged the time when her hold upon America would be loosened, the + standard of individual heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of + Portolá and of Anza rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The + California explorer did not, it is true, have to fight his way through + hordes of fierce natives. The California Indians, as a rule, received the + white adventurers gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as + they had to offer, but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were + but a poor lot. In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea + swarming with fish, a soil capable of growing every character of + foodstuff, these miserable natives lived in a chronic state of starvation. + </p> + <p> + As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portolá upholds the + best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon the + character of the leader. Pánfilo de Narváez landed on the coast of Florida + in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men and forty + horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the previous June, + and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida, only four lived to + reach civilization—the rest perished. That is but one example of + incompetent leadership. When Portolá organized his expedition for the + march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his soldiers were ill from + scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick list numbered nineteen men, + including the governor and Rivera, his chief officer. Sixteen men had to + be carried, and to three, in extremis, the viaticum was administered; but + he brought them all through, and returned to San Diego without the loss of + a man. + </p> + <p> + There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and + the other by Alférez Costansó. There is, besides, a diary of Junípero + Serra of the march from Velicatá to San Diego Bay, a translation of which + is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902. It is of + small value to the student of history. There is a diary by Portolá, quoted + by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by Bancroft. These we + have not seen. There are letters from Francisco Palou, Juan Crespi and + Miguel Costansó, printed in Out West for January 1902. The diary of Father + Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California. Documentos + para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San Francisco, 1874. The diary of + Miguel Costansó is in the Sutro library. It has never been printed. It is + prefaced by an historical narrative, a poor translation of which was + published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, and a better one by Chas. F. Lummis + in Out West, June-July, 1901. In Publications of the Historical Society of + Southern California, Vol. II, Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of + documents of the Sutro collection are printed, with translations by George + Butler Griffin. These relate to the explorations of the California coast + by ships from the Philippines, the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some + letters of Junípero Serra, and diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to + the northern coast in 1774. + </p> + <p> + The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original + documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful + survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by + the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions and + language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted are + Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva + California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C. + Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties of + Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The + Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on the + Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of the + Geographical Society of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + In view of the forthcoming Portolá Festival, The California Promotion + Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its members + to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement of + California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life and + character of Portolá, the committee has been enabled, through the efforts + of one of its members, to have careful search made among the archives of + Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of Mexico, and of + Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet, concerning Portolá, we + have received other documents of the utmost importance to the history of + San Francisco: a chronicle of the events following the discovery of the + Bay. + </p> + <p> + By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the + northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the year + 1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the + commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos, under + Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. To + Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San Francisco, + while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north. Bodega discovered + the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his name as it is + usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft (History of + California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his short and + incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate that neither + map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is with pleasure we + are permitted to present to the public these important documents, now + printed for the first time, and only regret that the shortness of time + allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later some minor + corrections. + </p> + <p> + We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don José + Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San + Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan Manuel + de Ayala. + </p> + <p> + Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He + entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made + Alférez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alférez de Navio, June 15, 1769; + Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776; + and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782. + </p> + <p> + When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala + was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz in + August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by Viceroy + Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner Sonora. + The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the commander of + the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad. Ayala was ordered + to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to San Blas with the + unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days later. + </p> + <p> + In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New + Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and + until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In + August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the San + Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to + Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal + order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of his + services to California. He died December 30, 1797. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Zoeth S. Eldredge, + E. J. Molera, + Charles H. Crocker, + + San Francisco, August, 1909.—Committee. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + </h2> + <h3> + By Zoeth S. Eldredge + </h3> + <p> + The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement of + California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to save + the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of a monarch + solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political exigencies of + the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil governors sink into + insignificance and become mere executives of the priestly will, while the + heroic efforts of Junípero Serra to convert the natives, his courage in + the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his unwearied devotion, make him + the impelling factor in the colonization of California. + </p> + <p> + Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into California + strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of Fray Francisco + Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junípero, that all historians + turn for the account of the occupation. Fray Palou details the glorious + life of the leader with whom he toiled; he eulogizes the worthy priest, + the ardent missionary, as he passed up and down the length of the land, + founding missions, planting the vine, the olive, and the fruit tree in a + land whose inhabitants had often suffered from hunger; giving aid and + comfort to the sick and weary and consolation to the dying. Indeed, the + pictures of the padres are fascinating. The infant establishments planted + by the church grew rich and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the + administration of the priests and so generous their hospitality, that life + in California in the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost + dolce far niente existence. + </p> + <p> + Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junípero drawn by Palou, the careful + investigator will find that the impelling factor in the occupation of + California was stern military necessity, not missionary zeal. From the + time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the Pacific up to + forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery, but more than two + hundred years had passed and she had done nothing towards making good this + right by settlement. The country was open to colonization by any nation + strong enough to maintain and protect its colonies. + </p> + <p> + Before relating the story of Portolá's march, let us consider for a moment + the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other European + nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it necessary to + occupy the country. + </p> + <p> + When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent + his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his + grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable + route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from + Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones, + thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward, + following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made a landfall + on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape Mendocino. A sail of + two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of California and New + Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco. This route was charted + by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for nearly three centuries was + the one followed by the galleons of Spain sailing from Manila to Acapulco. + The voyage across the Pacific was a long one and ships in distress were + obliged to put about and make for Japan. A harbor on the coast of + California in which ships could find shelter and repair damages was + greatly desired. A survey of the unknown coasts of the South Sea, as it + was called, was ordered, and it was also suggested that the explorations + be extended beyond the forty-second degree of north latitude, it being + held that the coast was a part of the same continent as that of China, or + only separated therefrom by the narrow strait of Anian, which was believed + to open in latitude forty-two. + </p> + <p> + Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California + was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by his + chief pilot, Bartolomé Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as far north + as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the entrance to + the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible storms in San + Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died. Ferrelo took command + and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in honor of Don Antonio de + Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden Hinde, + took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's Bay. He + took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, and named + it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain Fletcher + writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have some affinity + with our own country." It was in this place and at this time that the + first English service was held in America, by Master Francis Fletcher, + chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in Golden Gate Park, + San Francisco, commemorates the event. + </p> + <p> + Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship, supplied + himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the Southeast + Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the 25th sailed + across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good Hope. + </p> + <p> + In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was + directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather would + permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land and the + harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all that he + accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he accomplished + anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude 37° 30' (Pillar + Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that the mountains<a + href="#linknote-1" name="linknoteref-1" id="linknoteref-1"><small>1</small></a> + were without snow, and that there were many indications of rivers, bays, + and havens along the coast. + </p> + <p> + In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermeñon, a Portuguese sailor in the service of + Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of Gali. In + an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San Agustin. It is + supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was beached in Drake's + Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a boat, called a viroco, + and in this the ship's company of more than seventy persons continued the + homeward voyage. The little vessel reached Puerto de Navidad in safety, + and here the commander and part of the company left it in charge of the + pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of ten men, who brought it into + Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; a most remarkable voyage of nearly + twenty-five hundred miles by shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded + into an open boat. With the loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the + California coast by laden ships from the Philippines came to an end. + </p> + <p> + Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis + de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to the + exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of the + land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at the + expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and trade, + together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually given to the + pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for the expedition + were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader and his partners + in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the courts. Before a + decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge ordered the other + partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to begin the voyage to + the Californias within three months. Under this order, Vizcaino applied to + Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission to make the journey. This was + the condition of affairs when, on October 5, 1596, Velasco was relieved + and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zúñiga y Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took + command. At Velasco's request, Zúñiga made a careful examination of all + matters pertaining to the expedition to the Californias, and the result + was not favorable to Vizcaino. The new viceroy did not think that an + enterprise which might involve results of such vast importance should be + entrusted to the leadership of a person of such obscure position and + limited capital. He also doubted if Vizcaino had the resolution and + capacity necessary for so great an undertaking, and it appeared to him + that if disorders should arise among his men through lack of discipline, + or if the natives of the country to which he was going should repel him, + the repute and royal authority of the king would be in danger. On the + other hand, there was the decision of the court, the concession of the + viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino had already been at expense in the + matter. Zúñiga communicated his doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his + perplexity, submitted the question to a theologian and a jurist, selected + as the viceroy writes, from the number of those whose opinions were + entitled to the greatest consideration. Their decision was that the + concession of the viceroy had the force of an agreement and contract; that + what was at first a favor had become a right, and that, as the captain had + manifested no incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact + could not be varied. The audiencia<a href="#linknote-2" + name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a>, before whom + Zúñiga also laid the matter, was of like opinion. In view, therefore, of + the length to which the affair had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul + the contract but to do all in his power to insure the success of the + expedition. That Vizcaino's soldiers might respect and esteem him, the + viceroy clothed him with authority and showed him the greatest honor. He + required Vizcaino to furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories + of the ships and lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails + and tackle, the number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, + ammunition, and all other property, and he instructed the royal officers + at Acapulco that the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was + fully provided with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of + the people. The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zúñiga's report, + ordered him to cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for + the expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino + had sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six + hundred tons; the San José, a smaller ship, under command of Captain + Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in March, + 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast of Colima, + where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this point the + watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that Vizcaino + complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the conduct of his + soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape Corrientes, thence + northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan. From Mazatlan he bore + west-northwest across the Gulf of California and landed in a large bay + which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as the Bay of Cerralbo. From + here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named because of the peaceful + character of the Indians, who received him hospitably with presents of + fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is supposed, the place where Jimenez, + the discoverer of California, lost his life in 1533, and where Córtez + planted his ill-fated colony two years later. In entering the bay, the + flagship ran on a shoal, and they were obliged to cut away her masts and + lighten her of her cargo of provisions, a great part of which was wet and + lost. Here Vizcaino landed and built a stockade fort, and leaving the + dismantled flagship and the married men of his company under command of + his lieutenant, Figueroa, he sailed on October 3rd, with the San José and + the lancha and eighty men to explore the gulf. He encountered severe + storms which separated his vessels, and not having proper discipline among + his men, had trouble with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen + men were lost by the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back + to La Paz, where his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their + comrades, demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions + was running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the + lancha, he sent them back, and with the San José and forty of the more + adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the headwaters + of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong north winds, and + only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then yielding to the + demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles of Mazatlan. + </p> + <p> + The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, but he + made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land double + the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its seas + abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds, in + quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea; while in + the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the northwest, were + people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and silver ornaments, + cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the country (turkeys), + and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told him—not only in one + place but in many. He desired permission to make another voyage, and as + the late expedition had exhausted his own resources, asked that he be + granted thirty-five thousand dollars from the royal treasury and + outfitting for his ships. These advances he agreed to repay from the first + gain received by him during the voyage. He also asked, on behalf of those + who accompanied him, that the countries brought by him into subjection to + the crown be given to them encomienda for five lives<a href="#linknote-3" + name="linknoteref-3" id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a>; that they be + made gentlemen and granted all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that + other gentlemen enjoy, not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in + Spain. For these and for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with + five ships, equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, + arms and ammunition, provisions, etc.—all things necessary for the + voyage. He would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones + and valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish + taken, and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make + discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take + possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements, build + forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one hundred + leagues. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as he + had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council decided + that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zúñiga favored Don + Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council ordered that + Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all necessary funds; it + granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, and that the discoverers + should have all the privileges of gentlemen throughout the Indies. It also + granted other minor privileges and boons asked for. Vizcaino was made + captain-general of the expedition, and sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, + with orders to explore the coasts of the Californias from Cape San Lucas + to Cape Mendocino, or as far north as latitude forty-two. His ships were + the San Diego, flagship, the Santo Tomas, under Toríbio Gomez de Corvan, + the Tres Reyes, a small fragata or tender, under Alférez Martin Aguilar, + and a barcolongo for exploring rivers and bays<a href="#linknote-4" + name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a>. The chief + pilot of the expedition was Francisco Bolaños who had been one of the + pilots with Cermeñon on the lost San Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites + looked after the spiritual needs of the adventurers. The story of this + second voyage of Vizcaino is well known. On the 10th of November, they + were in the Bay of San Diego, which Vizcaino named for San Diego de + Alcalá, whose day, November 14th, they spent in the bay, ignoring the + name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo sixty years before. Later in the + month he entered and named San Pedro bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of + Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, it was. He also named the islands + still known as Santa Catalina and San Clemente. He next sailed through and + named the Canal de Santa Barbara, which saint's day, December 4th, was + observed while in the channel, and also named Isla de Santa Barbara and + Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta de la Concepcion, which he named<a + href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a>, + Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a thick fog, which lifting on December + 14th, revealed to the voyagers the lofty coast range usually sighted by + the ships coming from the Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a + river flowing from high hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To + the mountains he gave the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of + the Saint whose day (December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the + stream he named Rio del Cármelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. + Rounding a high wooded point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he + dropped anchor in Monterey bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found + the much desired harbor of refuge, and he named it for his patron, the + Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino made the most of his discovery, and in a + letter to the king, written in Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602<a + href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a>, + he gives a most glowing description of the bay, which is, at best, but an + open roadstead. The Indians, as usual, told him of large cities in the + interior, which they invited him to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. + His provisions were almost gone, his men were sick with scurvy, of which + many had died, and putting the most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he + sent her to Acapulco for aid, and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the + flagship and fragata, for the north. A storm soon separated the vessels + and they did not see each other again until they met in the harbor of + Acapulco. Vizcaino was told by the pilot, Bolaños, that Cermeñon had left + in Drake's Bay a large quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he + entered the bay on January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or + cargo. He did not land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did + not appear, he became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of + her. On the 13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. + This was followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in + latitude forty-two—the limit of his instructions—with Cape + Blanco in sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, + "towards Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six + of his men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, + where he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him, + forty-two had died. + </p> + <p> + In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied and + provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He directed + that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition. His orders + were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan, whence he + returned in 1613, and died three years later. + </p> + <p> + For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the + pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued to + make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail down the + coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge was + established and no attempt was made to colonize the country. + </p> + <p> + At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his + possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection. + Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had + crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska, and + their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into more + southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was ready to + turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The Family + Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had aroused the + ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved to demand an + explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack her at home and + abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was time for humbling + the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet caused Pitt's + resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power with vigor and + arrogance unabated. + </p> + <p> + On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree + expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had + established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de + Portolá, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed + governor of the Californias and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five + dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to + dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the + Franciscans. + </p> + <p> + The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the + northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take + effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger of + invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a person + of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out so great an + undertaking, Don José de Galvez, visitador-general of the kingdom and + member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services and volunteered + to go to Lower California and effect the organization and equipment of the + expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and Galvez set out from + the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on the coast of New + Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken by a courier from + the viceroy bringing orders just received from the court directing that a + maritime expedition should be at once dispatched to Monterey and that port + fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas on the 16th of May, 1768, the + señor visitador laid before them the situation and the wishes of the king. + He stated that on the exterior or occidental coasts of the Californias, + Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas on the south to the Rio de los Reyes<a + href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + in 43 degrees, though the only portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up + to 30° 30'.<a href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> + The civilized or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon—people + of reason) did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, + including the families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those + of the miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to + establish themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, + they might fortify themselves there before the government could receive + notice of it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New + Spain there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built + in San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small + tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications + between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted + all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign invasion. + All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present the commandant + of the department and the army officers and pilots who chanced to be + there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the San Carlos and + San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships, while Galvez + proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of supplies and + provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid under + contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions to be + established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule herd; + for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition by one by + land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long sea-voyage + should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don Gaspar de Portolá, + volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named commander-in-chief. + Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the presidio of Loreto, was + appointed second in command. The troops were composed of forty cavalrymen + from the presidio of Loreto in Lower California, under Rivera, and + twenty-five infantrymen of the compania franca of Catalonia, under + Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial troops were joined thirty + Christian Indians from the missions, armed with bows and arrows. These + were intended for the land expedition. The mission of Santa Maria, the + northernmost mission on the peninsula, was the rendezvous of the land + forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded with provisions for the land + expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay of San Luis Gonzaga, the + nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria, whither also went by land the + troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the herd of every sort. Finding + insufficient pasturage for the cattle at Santa Maria, they advanced to + Velicatá, some thirty miles distant, and here was assembled the land + expedition. In addition to the officers named, Don Miguel Costansó, ensign + of royal engineers, was ordered to join the expedition as cosmographer and + diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was appointed physician. To minister to the + soldiers and take charge of the missions to be established in the new + land, the following missionary priests, all of the college of San Fernando + in Mexico, were named to accompany the expedition. Fray Junípero Serra, + appointed president of the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, + Fray Fernando Parron, Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was + loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junípero Serra sang mass + aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and the + standards. The visitador named the Señor San José patron of the + expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those + about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans + of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alférez Miguel + Costansó, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The ship was + commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy; the mate was + Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two boys, four cooks, and + two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's company—sixty-two in + all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and sailed on the 10th. + Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas—chief of the military + expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of the soldiers on + land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey<a href="#linknote-9" + name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a>. On the 15th + of February, Father Junípero performed like offices for the San Antonio, + and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan Perez, "of the + navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino and Gomez, some + carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the sailors, made some + ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The rendezvous was San Diego bay, + where all were to meet. + </p> + <p> + The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division, under + Rivera, started from Velicatá March 24th, and the second, under command of + the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre Crespi, Pilotin + (Mate) Jose Cañizares. Twenty-five soldados de cuera<a href="#linknote-10" + name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a>, three + muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians—forty-two men. With the + governor marched Junípero Serra, fifteen soldados de cuera, under Sergeant + Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers and Indians—forty-four + in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being Easter Sunday, Junípero + established the Mission of San Fernando with Fray Miguel de la Campa as + Minister. For the succor and relief of the forces, both sea and land, + Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he named in honor of the protector + of the expedition, the San Jose, and loading her with supplies and + provisions, sent her with orders to meet the expedition at Monterey. She + was lost at sea. + </p> + <p> + There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles + through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junípero's diary lies + before me<a href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a>; + it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, the Indians they + met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, etc.; no course, no + distances traveled, or other like information necessary to an + understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he is not to be + compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight of the sea at + the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was by the sea until + they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San Diego, their Indian + allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the Diegueños, whom they + began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally lot. They thronged the + camp and became a perfect nuisance with their begging and stealing. They + begged from Junípero his robe and from the governor his cuera, waistcoat, + breeches, and all he had on. One of them succeeding in inducing Junípero + to take off his spectacles to show them to him and as soon as he got them + in his hands made off with them, causing the priest a thousand + difficulties to recover them. On the 27th of June Sergeant Ortega, with + his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and announced to the anxious camp the + proximity of the governor. Rivera sent ten of his soldiers with fresh + horses back with Ortega, and Portolá, in advance of his command, reached + the camp June 29th, and the entire division arrived, June 30th, in good + order and condition, forty-six days from Velicatá. + </p> + <p> + Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other + divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the placid + waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more formidable + than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when on the 11th of + April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and dropped her anchor + not far from the point where now the ferry boat for Coronado leaves the + slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at the rendezvous. No + attempt was made to land, for they were alone and dread scurvy had them in + its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's company were sick. On the + 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La Paz, with her company in + even worse condition. All were sick, some had died, and only four sailors + remained on their feet, aided in working the ship by such of the soldiers + as were able to help. She had been driven far out of her course; had found + herself short of water, and had to put into the island of Cedros to supply + herself, and it was with the greatest difficulty she reached the bay of + San Diego. The first thing to be done was to find good water and to + minister to the sick. For this purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro + Fages, Don Miguel Costansó, and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five + men-soldiers, sailors, etc., all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding + up the shore, found, by direction of some Indians, a river of good + mountain water at a distance of three leagues to the northeast. Moving + their ships as near as they could, they prepared on the beach a camp, + which they surrounded with a parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted + two cannon. Within they made two large hospital tents from the sails and + awnings of the ships, and set up the tents of the officers and priests. + Then they transferred the sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, + and the list of those able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The + difficulties of their situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines + and food had been consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the + surgeon, himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand + anxieties some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as + the others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun + burned them by day—alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, + two or three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which + had been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight + soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of + the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the + care of the sick. + </p> + <p> + There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of the + fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none were + discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At length, on + the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on the beach + that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and armed as + they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera, fifty days + from Velicatá, without the loss of a man or having a sick one; but they + were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour left and were + issuing two tortillas<a href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12" + id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> per day to each man. Great was + the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's force. + It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This was done, + and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known as "Old Town," + where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. The surgeon, Pedro Prat, + devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths continued, until of the ninety + and more who had sailed from La Paz, two-thirds were laid under the sand + of Punta de los Muertos<a href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" + id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a>. It was now thought best to send + one of the packets to San Blas to inform the viceroy and the visitador of + the state of the expedition, and it was feared that if this were longer + delayed, the ship would be unable to put to sea for lack of mariners. The + San Antonio was selected for this purpose, and was prepared for sea, but + as she was about to sail, the camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by + the arrival of Portolá and the second division, sound in body, and with + 163 mules laden with provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of + the condition of affairs, and desirous that the señor visitador's orders + concerning the sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain + Vila of the San Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that + he might pursue the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's + officers, boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was + not a sailor among the men offered by Portolá, he declined to go to sea + under such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on + board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight + men only for a crew. + </p> + <p> + The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to + Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season should + expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra closed by + snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the sierras + covered with snow on their arrival in April. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th of July, Portolá began his march to Monterey, distant one + hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega, + with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan + volunteers—all that could travel, Ensign Costansó, the priests, + Crespi and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the + missions of Lower California, and two servants—sixty-four in all. + Both Fages and Costansó were sick with scurvy, but joined the command + notwithstanding. The personnel of this expedition contains some of the + best known names in California. Portolá, the first governor; Rivera, + comandante of California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on + the Colorado in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773, + governor, 1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the + Golden Gate and of Carquines Strait<a href="#linknote-14" + name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a>; + lieutenant and brevet captain, comandante of the presidio of San Diego, of + Santa Barbara, and of Monterey; founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara + and of the missions of San Juan Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the + rank and file were men whose names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who + gave his name to Amador county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of + Governor Alvarado; José Raimundo Carrillo, later alférez, lieutenant, and + captain, comandante of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and of + San Diego, and founder of the great Carrillo family; José Antonio Yorba, + sergeant of Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that name and + grantee of the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota, José Ignacio + Oliveras, José Maria Soberanes, and others. + </p> + <p> + At San Diego, Portolá left the sick under the care of the faithful + surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the San + Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junípero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and + Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California + Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them a + sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads<a + href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> + of provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portolá expedition + started, Junípero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San + Diego de Alcalá, the first mission established in Alta California. The + deaths continued, and before Portolá's return in January, eight soldiers, + four sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about + twenty persons at the camp. + </p> + <p> + We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship, San + Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have seen, was + lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San Antonio, + the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, took with him one + hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he concluded, to last + him for six months. + </p> + <p> + On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with six + or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected the + camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was + frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante, with + Fages, Costansó, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia + volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with + spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers; + these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of + pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers. + The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the + spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada). + </p> + <p> + The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive and + defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) and the + adarga (shield)<a href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" + id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a>. The first, being made in the + form of a coat without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses + of dressed deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very + short range. The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on + the left arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his + horse against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used + a species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with + a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to cover + the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding through + the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms were the + lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback, the + broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costansó, who was an + officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor of the + presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they were men + capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and active; "and it + is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen in the world, and + among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the service of the king."<a + href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17" id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> + </p> + <p> + It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train + through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones. It + was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next, and + the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be + traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be had. + The distance made was from two to four leagues<a href="#linknote-18" + name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a>, and the + command rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue + caused by the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the + wandering off of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costansó says + that one of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their + caballada (horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a + country they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most + incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover a + coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any of + these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many leagues, + precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without any human + effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense toil to + gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled, remain of no + service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the Spaniards made + their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more fertile and + pleasing as they progressed northward. + </p> + <p> + The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became the + Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the pretty + valley where later was established the mission of San Luis Rey. They + called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards transferred to + a mission forty miles north of this place. The command rested here, July + 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San Onofre), whose base + they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it seemed to threaten their + advance, but by keeping close to the shore, they held their way, and on + the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of water running through a mesa at + the foot of a sierra, whence looking across the sea, they could descry + Santa Catalina Island. This was San Juan Capistrano, and here they rested + on the 25th. On the 28th they reached the Santa Ana river, near the + present town of that name; a violent shock of earthquake which they + experienced caused them to name the river Jesus de los Temblores<a + href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a>. + July 30th and 31st they were in the San Gabriel valley, which they called + San Miguel, and on August 1st they rested near the site of the present + city of Los Angeles. The stop this day, in addition to the needed rest and + the necessity for exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers + and people of the expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciúncula.<a + href="#linknote-20" name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> + The priests said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon + the soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with + which the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles + river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra Señora + de Los Angeles de Porciúncula<a href="#linknote-21" name="linknoteref-21" + id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a>. Passing up the river, they went + through the cañon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they called + Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos—Valley of St. Catherine of + the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa + Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo cañon, they came to the Santa Clara + river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th. Portolá + named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor of the + saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days, by easy + jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th at the + first rancheria<a href="#linknote-22" name="linknoteref-22" + id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> of the Channel Indians. It being + the vespers of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Señora, Portolá named + the village La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed + houses of clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. + These Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and + very skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles. + Portolá thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de + Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission + of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them + kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made + boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with cords + and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each. The next + four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th, at a large + laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was the site of + the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere were large + populous rancherías of the Indians, and everywhere they were received in + the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than they could + eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of a large + lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was a large + ranchería, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon. Portolá gave + to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherías de Mescaltitan—The + Contiguous Rancherías of Mescaltitan. The name of Mescaltitan is still + attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly drained and contains + some of the finest walnut groves in California. On the 28th, they turned + Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place called by them Paraje de + los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five miles beyond, preserves the + name. On the 30th they crossed a large river, which they named the Santa + Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose day it was. This is now the Santa + Inez, so called from the mission of that name, established on its bank in + 1804. Passing northward along the beach, a sharp spur of the sierra + jutting out at Point Sal turned them inland through the little pass + followed by the Southern Pacific Coast Line, and they came, on September + 10th, to a large lake in the northwest corner of Santa Barbara county, to + which was given the name of Laguna Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. + Three leagues beyond, they camped at a lake named by Costansó, Laguna + Redonda, but which the soldiers called El Oso Flaco—The Thin Bear—and + it is still known by that name. Here Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and + ten of the soldiers complained of sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on + the 4th reached the mouth of the San Luis cañon. Here they were hospitably + received by the chief of a large ranchería, whose appearance caused the + soldiers to apply to him the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor + hanging from his neck. Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the + soldiers applied to the chief, his ranchería, and to the cañon leading up + to San Luis Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many + cases the good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint + has been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount + Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying + qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow cañon of + San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and city of + San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the Sierra de Santa + Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley, whence the march + to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the west and followed the + Cañada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which they called El Estero de + San Serafin. The Cañada de los Osos<a href="#linknote-23" + name="linknoteref-23" id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a>, still so + called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears, one of + which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls. Another + wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their lives. + </p> + <p> + The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came to a + point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa Lucia. + This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars, blocks + the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three thousand + feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portolá sent out + the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the mountains. During + the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way into the sierra + through San Carpóforo cañon, and on the 16th the command moved up the + steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on either side. It is + impossible to follow their route through this rugged mountain range with + any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and painful. On the 20th, + they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the north, and from its summit + the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea of mountains, "presenting," + writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor travelers worn out with the + fatigue of the journey." The cold was beginning to be severe, and many of + the men were suffering from scurvy and unfit for service, which increased + the hardship for all; yet they did not falter but pressed bravely on, and + on the 26th emerged from the mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they + named the Cañada del Palo Caido<a href="#linknote-24" name="linknoteref-24" + id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and + camped on the Salinas river, which they christened Rio de San Elizario. + From now on the march is an easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the + Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see it. + They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of + Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably + that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the + voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno. The + governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part of the + coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers, explored the + coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the very port they + were seeking, while Portolá, with Costansó, Crespi, and five soldiers, + climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada, the northern + point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore northwest at a + distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south a hill ran out into + the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be wooded with pines. They + recognized the one on the north as the Punta de Año Nuevo and that on the + south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two lay the great ensenada<a + href="#linknote-25" name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a>, + with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid down in the coast pilot + (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the famous port of Monterey? + </p> + <p> + They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit + they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was + continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between it + and another point to the south (Point Cármelo) was a small ensenada, where + a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into an estero; + that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they were obliged + to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra which compelled + them to leave the coast on the 16th of September. + </p> + <p> + Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of officers + to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday, October 4th, + the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid the matter + before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of provisions, the + seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the excessive burden of + labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care of the animals, and + continual explorations, and to the lateness of the season. In view of + these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of Monterey could not + be found where it was said to be, each person present was called upon to + express freely his opinion. + </p> + <p> + Costansó spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37°; they had only + reached 36° 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37° 30', so as + either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for going up + to 37° or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish themselves + somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go forward and put + his trust in God. If they found the desired port of Monterey and therein + the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If Monterey did not appear, + they would find a place for a settlement; but if it should be the will of + God that all were to perish, they would have discharged their duty to God + and man in laboring until death in their endeavor to accomplish the + enterprise on which they had been sent. To this decision all agreed, and + signed their names to the compact. + </p> + <p> + Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and locate + camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of October, the + march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of their limbs. Each + night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they were put into + hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried in the mode of + travel used by the women of Andalusia<a href="#linknote-26" + name="linknoteref-26" id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a>. The march + was slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last + extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to + three, who were thought to be dying. + </p> + <p> + On this day they crossed the Rio del Pájaro, which they named because of a + great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which + measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of + the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were + preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the + approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on + hand, gave the river the name La Señora Santa Ana, but again the saint was + ignored, and the river is known as the Pájaro (Bird). On the 17th they + crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the present city + of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Año Nuevo, and camped at + the entrance of the cañon of Waddell creek. They recognized Point Año + Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno, and Crespi estimated + that it was one league distant from the camp. With good water and fuel, + the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both Portolá and Rivera were now + added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables had given out and the rations + were reduced to five tortillas of bran and flour per day. Crespi named the + camp San Luis Beltran, while the soldiers called it La Cañada de Salud. On + the 23d, they again moved forward, passing Punta de Año Nuevo and, + traveling two leagues, camped probably on Gazos creek, where was a large + Indian ranchería, whose inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which + was about opposite Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan + Nepomuceno<a href="#linknote-27" name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a>. + The next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San + Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an + epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw their + end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea seemed to + relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers began to be + less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de los Cursos, and + Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable to travel on the + 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th, they pressed forward. + The next stop was Purisima creek, two short leagues distant, but the way + was rough, and the pioneers had to make roads across three arroyos where + the descents were steep and difficult for the transportation of the + invalids. On the bank of the stream was an Indian ranchería, apparently + deserted. The Spaniards took possession of the huts, but soon came running + forth with cries of "las pulgas! las pulgas!<a href="#linknote-28" + name="linknoteref-28" id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a>" They + preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called the camp Ranchería de + las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the 28th they camped on + Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon Bay. They named the + camp El Llano de los Ansares—The Plain of the Wild Geese—and + Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the command was ill; + the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food very short. They + contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it rained heavily and + Portolá, who was very ill, decided to rest on the 29th. On Monday, October + 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and Pillar Point were noted but no + names given. Several deep arroyos were crossed, some of which required the + building of bridges to get the animals over. They proceeded up the shore + until a barrier of rock confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in + a rincon (corner) formed by the sierra and sheltered from the north wind + they camped while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over + the Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they + named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and + other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta del + Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the Montara + fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers had + prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and at ten + o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the + exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous + sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them, + bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing in + the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea, + rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left, + west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally along + the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what appeared to + be the mouth of an inlet. There could be no mistake. The distant point was + the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahía ó Puerto de San + Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in their hearts + they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the San Pedro + valley<a href="#linknote-29" name="linknoteref-29" id="linknoteref-29"><small>29</small></a> + at the foot of the Montara mountains. + </p> + <p> + Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind but + would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To settle + the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine the country + as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to report, while + the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta de las Almejas + del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the two names of the + camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp in San Pedro + valley. + </p> + <p> + The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass some + of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They climbed the + mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall reported that + they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense estero or arm of the + sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as the eye could reach, + stretching to the southeast; that they had seen some beautiful plains + thickly covered with trees, while the many columns of smoke rising over + them showed that they were well stocked with Indian villages. This story + confirmed them in the belief that they were at the Port of San Francisco, + and that the estero described was that spoken of by Cabrera Bueno, the + mouth of which they imagined they had seen from the Montara mountains<a + href="#linknote-30" name="linknoteref-30" id="linknoteref-30"><small>30</small></a>. + They were now satisfied that Ortega would be unable to reach Point Reyes, + and that three days was not sufficient time to go around the head of such + an estero. The exploring party returned in the night of November 3d, + discharging their fire-arms as they approached. They reported that they + found themselves obstructed by immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily + far back into the land<a href="#linknote-31" name="linknoteref-31" + id="linknoteref-31"><small>31</small></a>, but what caused their rejoicing + was that they understood from the signs of the Indians that at two days + journey from where they were there was a port in which a ship was + anchored. On this announcement, some thought that they were at the port of + Monterey, and that the supply ship San Jose or the San Carlos was waiting + for them. Crespi says that if they were not in Monterey, they were + certainly in San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in whose + honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in the Port + of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que Dios + guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this little + valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father San + Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded on the + nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, in better + spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their march at one + o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up the beach, they + turned into the mountains on their right, and from the summit beheld the + immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into the Cañada de San + Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and traveling two leagues + camped in the cañada at the foot of a hill, very green with low brush, and + having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next two days they traveled down + the cañada, coasting the estero, which they could not see for the low + hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the pleasant land with its groves of + oak, redwood (palo colorado), and madroño. They saw the tracks of many + deer and also of bears. The Indians met them with friendly offers of black + tamales and atole, which were gladly received by the half-starved + Spaniards. They begged the strangers to go to their rancherías, but the + governor excused himself, saying that he must go forward, and dismissed + them with presents of beads and trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end + of the cañada, which suddenly turned to the east, and saw that the estero<a + href="#linknote-32" name="linknoteref-32" id="linknoteref-32"><small>32</small></a> + was finished in a spacious valley. To the cañada they gave the name of San + Francisco<a href="#linknote-33" name="linknoteref-33" id="linknoteref-33"><small>33</small></a>. + Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep arroyo, + whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately into the + estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site of Stanford + University<a href="#linknote-34" name="linknoteref-34" id="linknoteref-34"><small>34</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route, + Portolá now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four days in + which to explore the country and find the port containing the supply-ship. + </p> + <p> + Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the + neighboring rancherías, set out after noon on November 7th and returned in + the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port or + ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the Indians + had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could not be in + advance. They also reported that the country they had seen towards the + north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for the reason that + the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, were hostile and would + dispute the passage. They said that they had encountered another immense + estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait), which also ran far inland and + connected with the one on the southeast, and that to double it would take + many leagues of travel<a href="#linknote-35" name="linknoteref-35" + id="linknoteref-35"><small>35</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were + compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much + suffering from indigestion and fever. + </p> + <p> + Portolá called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the + best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point + of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which + they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the + command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by the + route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of Pines + at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild geese + which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the coast. The + following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of Pines and + camped in the cañada of the Cármelo, where was plenty of wood and good + water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor sent ten + soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian pioneers, who + undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with instructions to + thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the Port of Monterey + was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa Lucia. + </p> + <p> + The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They were + tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and they + reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that the + mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was no + passage along the shore. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa + Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a station + for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence they make a + landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all winds * * * and is + thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of gentle disposition, + peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like that of Castile, and + hemp, and cotton,"<a href="#linknote-36" name="linknoteref-36" + id="linknoteref-36"><small>36</small></a> etc. + </p> + <p> + The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port, + protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the Rio + Cármelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but lagunillas; + "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile, who raised + flax and hemp and cotton?" Costansó says that in their entire journey, + they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people more wild and + savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is not strange that + Portolá failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada, Vizcaino's Famoso + Puerte de Monterey. + </p> + <p> + The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply was + almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the + Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on + December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found + the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding + it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen + half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming + excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited + free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all + might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, the + junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the + provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the mules + for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better to + divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San Diego. + Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented difficulties. + The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the governor + announced his determination. They would return to San Diego at once, he + said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the whole + expedition would be lost. + </p> + <p> + A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of + December 9th, delaying the march. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before + leaving Cármelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the + shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig; + at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a bottle and + buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the expedition, its + commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the channel of Santa + Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage of the Santa Lucia + mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point Reyes, etc. + </p> + <p> + "The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros intervened + which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go around, and + other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of provisions), made + it necessary for us to return, believing that the Port of Monterey might + perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and thinking that we might have + passed it without observing it. We left the estero of San Francisco on our + return on the 11th of November. We passed the Punta de Año Nuevo on the + 19th of said month, and reached the second time this Port and Ensenada de + Pinos on the 27th of the same." + </p> + <p> + It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for + the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it, + their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows the + latitude at various points as observed by Costansó. It requests the + commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them, + should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of the + expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible, that the + expedition might sight and obtain succor from them. + </p> + <p> + The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half, + and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another + cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they + ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming. They + killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and on the + 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers stole + flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided the remainder + among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a mudhole near San + Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it was a feast day<a + href="#linknote-37" name="linknoteref-37" id="linknoteref-37"><small>37</small></a>. + On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here, among the Channel + Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were over, and the health + of the command improved daily. Instead of following up the Santa Clara + river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, into the San Fernando + valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river, crossed the Santa Ana, + January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24, 1770, with the command in + good health and without the loss of a man, "with the merit of having been + compelled to eat the flesh of male and female mules, and with not having + found the Port of Monterey, which we judged to have been filled up by the + great sand dunes which were in the place where we had expected to find + it."<a href="#linknote-38" name="linknoteref-38" id="linknoteref-38"><small>38</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Portolá found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had + died, and Junípero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy. No + tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a + careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicatá in + case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be + exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of + March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure, very + much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera was + sent to Velicatá with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to bring up + the cattle and supplies that had been left there. + </p> + <p> + After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a sail + appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to prevent + the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, and Portolá + prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of Monterey. + Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of the search + were related to him, that the place where they erected the second cross + was the long-lost Port of Monterey. + </p> + <p> + On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junípero, + Costansó, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th, + Portolá set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven + soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego + was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers + Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as + guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with + supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle. + </p> + <p> + Portolá followed the same route that he took on the retreat from Monterey, + and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de Pinos, near + the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place for the camp, + Portolá took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and went to the cross + to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found around the cross a + ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which were decked with + feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them, while at the foot of + the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As Portolá, Fages, and Crespi + walked along the beach and looked out over the bay and noted its calm and + placid waters, with its swimming seals and spouting whales, they broke + forth with one voice, "This is the Port of Monterey which we have sought. + It is exactly as reported by Sebastian Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."<a + href="#linknote-39" name="linknoteref-39" id="linknoteref-39"><small>39</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Cármelo, Portolá + ordered the expedition to Cármelo Bay by direct line, while he, with Fages + and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it well + covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a ship. + They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress Point), + and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they awaited + the arrival of the San Antonio. + </p> + <p> + On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made + signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had + dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors to + be a most famous port. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where, + in 1602, Vizcaino's Cármelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de + Portolá, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition, + Fray Junípero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the + San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with the + crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father president + chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the musical + deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns of the San + Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the conclusion of + the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portolá, governor of the + Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his majesty Don + Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of San Carlos de + Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the first presidio and + second mission in California. + </p> + <p> + In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portolá now delivered + to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command of the new + establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San Blas, and + California knew him no more. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLÁ AFTER HE LEFT CALIFORNIA + </h2> + <h3> + By E. J. Molera + </h3> + <p> + Portolá and Costansó sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to the + viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costansó remained in the capital + and took part in several engineering works, among others, the map of the + Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted by the + writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portolá's further history, has so far + discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's return to the + capital was followed by promotion from Captain to Lieutenant-Colonel in + the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as Governor of Puebla, + February 23, 1777. + </p> + <p> + In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio + covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portolá's + taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state: + </p> + <p> + "Possession of Governor Portolá." + </p> + <p> + "In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal + title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his + Majesty to Señor Don Gaspar de Portolá, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal + Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor, + and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said title + has been forwarded." + </p> + <p> + "The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in + his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from the + king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its contents + and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel Don Gaspar de + Portolá be given possession of said office, and for that purpose, said + noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him to this hail of + sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having certified to his + identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the office of Governor, + doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the poor with excessive taxes; + to keep and cause to be kept, the rights, privileges, royal decrees and + ordinances, etc." + </p> + <p> + "Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal justice, + by which the act of possession was completed." + </p> + <p> + In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portolá as + Governor of Puebla. + </p> + <p> + That in the year 1779, Portolá was still Governor of Puebla is proved by + two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular + official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the + death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith; + the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portolá, dated April 17th, 1779. + </p> + <p> + Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving an + Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos, + Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. Document Obtained + from the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + </p> + <p> + "My Dear Sir:" + </p> + <p> + "By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal + packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don + Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor + of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th + inst. at San Blas." + </p> + <p> + "In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made by + this officer and his pilot, Don José Cañizares, your Excellency will see, + in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained gives + knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities that is + has to invernate<a href="#linknote-40" name="linknoteref-40" + id="linknoteref-40"><small>40</small></a> vessels. The docility and gentle + manners of the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the + utility of the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing + this land." + </p> + <p> + "The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms + everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water, + wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is + rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey." + </p> + <p> + "He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the merit + of the pilot, Don José Cañizares, in discharging the commission entrusted + to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve to that of + the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency that you remind + His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful that the Department + of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made has always shown the + same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the one just finished with + such advantage to the service, because of the information and knowledge he + has shown in the discharge of his duty." + </p> + <p> + "For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as + Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such + important work." + </p> + <p> + "That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish." + </p> + <p> + "Exm°. Sr." + </p> + <p> + "Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands," + </p> + <p> + "Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua." + </p> + <p> + "Mexico, November 26th, 1775." + </p> + <p> + "To His Excellency Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by + </h2> + <p> + Sea to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of + California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Father Junípero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages + the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and + notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico to + lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego in the + mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in + Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773. + </p> + <p> + Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he + considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but + little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official + business, had not an outside incident given them force. + </p> + <p> + Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg, + communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring the + coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the + newspapers of the Russian capital<a href="#linknote-41" + name="linknoteref-41" id="linknoteref-41"><small>41</small></a>. This news + with the corroborating proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts + of April 11th and September 23, 1773. + </p> + <p> + The result of this information was to give a better organization to the + maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California. It + was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco; that + better means of communication be established between San Diego and + Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the + Russians had made settlements on the coast of California. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS + </h2> + <h3> + Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece) + </h3> + <p> + Under Command of Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel + de Ayala + </p> + <p> + From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco + </p> + <p> + The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a + Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at + Seville, Spain<a href="#linknote-42" name="linknoteref-42" + id="linknoteref-42"><small>42</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de + Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in + the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to the + west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don Bruno + de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan de la + Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command of the + packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manríque, was sick and + unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited until the + morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which carried his + predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board to follow the + frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the expedition, Don + Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar and provisions + which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck where they were + liable to be damaged. + </p> + <p> + At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the + wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela + Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in sight + of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the + southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds and + calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable + progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain some + water to replace that which had been consumed<a href="#linknote-43" + name="linknoteref-43" id="linknoteref-43"><small>43</small></a>. The pilot + could not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On + April 2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day + he came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on + board the governor of California<a href="#linknote-44" + name="linknoteref-44" id="linknoteref-44"><small>44</small></a>. From the + Concepcion Ayala obtained six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious + accident happened to the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, + he had a number of loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they + could not injure anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the + bullet entering the commander's foot between the second and third toes, + coming out under the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about + two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about twelve + leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress northward was + very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch to calk the + launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great damage was done. + On the same day indications of land were noted and some whales were seen, + which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On the following day they + saw some seals, which, according to the sailors, was the second sign of + land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which, they say, is proof positive + of land being near. On the same day land was sighted at 4 p. m.; the North + Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north and Point Año Nuevo to + the southeast. At 7 p. m., the South Farallones were seen at a distance of + about two leagues to the northeast. The variation of the needle was + observed and found to be 13° E. + </p> + <p> + Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Año + Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At noon + the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36° 58'. At 3 + p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could not be + seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at 5 p. m. they + saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The variation of the + needle was observed and found to be 12° 58' E. They had some difficulty in + finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy bottom. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail + and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast. + </p> + <p> + Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which time + he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails and + repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under water at + the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half yards. + </p> + <p> + He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36°° 33', + longitude 16° 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San + Francisco, July 26, 1775. + </p> + <p> + That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a + contrary direction. + </p> + <p> + On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the range + of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction<a + href="#linknote-45" name="linknoteref-45" id="linknoteref-45"><small>45</small></a>. + At noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13° distant five miles; at 3 p. + m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Año Nuevo came in + sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant. From + July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of contrary + winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was seen to the + east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was found to be Point + Año Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view bearing north 1/4 + northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was considered to be Point + Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the San Carlos steered + west-southwest and continued in that course until 8 a. m. of the 4th, when + the bearing was changed to the north-northeast. At noon the sun's altitude + was taken and the latitude was found to be 37° 11', and longitude 17° 51' + W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th, the southernmost Farallon of the + Port of San Francisco was seen to the northwest, distant about eight + leagues. The land to the north was Point Reyes, bearing 4° W., distant + about fourteen leagues. At half past eleven, considering the coast was + near, the course was changed to the south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of + August 5th, when it was changed again to the north-northeast 5° north to + bring the ship at sunrise to the point it was at sunset of the day before. + At 5 a. m. four of the Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the + north-northwest, distant four leagues. Point Año Nuevo was southeast 1/4 + east from twelve to fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4° east, + distant three leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala + lowered the launch, and in it Pilot Cañizares was sent with ten men to + search for an anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. + At 9 a. m. a strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at + eleven it was observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which + convinced the commander that it was due to the tide, and this was + confirmed by the soundings; in entering the port, as on the first + occasion, the tide was going out, and on the second one the tide was + coming in. The altitude of the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the + utmost care, and the latitude was found to be 37° 42' and the longitude + 17° 14' W. of San Blas. At this time Point Año Nuevo was about fourteen + leagues distant to the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, + distant four leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four + leagues. The wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to + the north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and + bottom found at sixteen brazas<a href="#linknote-46" name="linknoteref-46" + id="linknoteref-46"><small>46</small></a> of mud and sand mixed, and + distant from the mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at + fifteen brazas, with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was + continued and the bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The + current was so great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a + strong wind from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed + them to go not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the + current must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The + swiftness of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and + that night was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this + was done with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it + necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging might + give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with a 20-lb. + lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either in the + channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was realized + that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike bottom. They + continued thus until they were one league inside the mouth of the bay and + a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind suddenly stopped. + Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards the mouth, an + anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast to the big mast so + that if it did not catch the bottom it would not be lost. It was found + that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made ready to drop in case the + big one should drag. When the wind stopped and the current ceased, the + vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas, with sandy bottom<a + href="#linknote-47" name="linknoteref-47" id="linknoteref-47"><small>47</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset + the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not + come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the + entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable + harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he + attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were + such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried + him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor he + had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired out, + made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out, with the + same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw the + packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in + reaching her. + </p> + <p> + At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which was to + the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had sufficient + water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of shelter + then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing his anchor + in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to the east, + although the wind came from the landward which was about two leagues from + the harbor<a href="#linknote-48" name="linknoteref-48" id="linknoteref-48"><small>48</small></a>. + He called this harbor "Carmeita," because in it was a rock resembling a + friar of that order. There was in its vicinity an Indian village, the + inhabitants of which came out from their huts and cried out and made signs + for the vessel to go near them. As the sailors were taking soundings and + came near the shore, the Indians erected a pole, at the top of which was a + large number of feathers. The sailors having no orders to answer them, + remained at a distance from the shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, + that the sailors were afraid of them, endeavored to assure them by + dropping their bows to the ground, and after describing a circle in the + air with the arrows stuck them in the sand. The launch came on board + again, and soon after, the Indians, from a point of land near the vessel, + talked to the sailors with loud cries, and although their voices were + heard distinctly, they could not be understood for want of an interpreter. + At 9 the launch was sent again to another harbor to the north, which + seemed to be better sheltered and to have better anchorage<a + href="#linknote-49" name="linknoteref-49" id="linknoteref-49"><small>49</small></a>. + It was so, and when the launch returned at 10, the pilot stated that he + found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas, and the bottom was sticky with + mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards the place examined, but a strong + current prevented her reaching it. It was then decided to anchor in + fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they stayed there all night, during + which time the vessel moved on account of the bad quality of the anchors. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and + fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and the + bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided to go + to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary to return + to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling to the men + with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch with the + priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must not molest + the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for which purpose + the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and ordered them to + observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians showed fight they + could easily return to the launch, where four armed men must always remain + to protect the retreat. It is true that from the day when intercourse was + first had with the Indians, it was seen how affable and hospitable they + were, showing the greatest desire for the Spaniards to go to their + village, where, they said, they could eat and sleep. They had already + prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from their corn, and tomales of + the same. During the time the Spaniards were with the Indians, they found + that the latter repeated the Spanish words with great facility, and by + signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go on board the packet boat, but + the Indians, also by signs, signified that until the Spaniards should + visit their village, they could not go on board. After a little while the + Spaniards returned to the boat and the Indians disappeared. + </p> + <p> + On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the + bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near + Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places were + found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, which + was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter even + for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"<a href="#linknote-50" + name="linknoteref-50" id="linknoteref-50"><small>50</small></a> on account + of the abundance of those birds that were on it. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of + water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don José + de Cañizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a few + days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, Don + Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find the + party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send to San + Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but explored an + estero which enters the land about twelve leagues<a href="#linknote-51" + name="linknoteref-51" id="linknoteref-51"><small>51</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where + they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to ask + for bread in Spanish. + </p> + <p> + From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay of San + Francisco continued, and first pilot Don José de Cañizares was instructed + to make his report and the map of the bay. + </p> + <p> + On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, + but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had + carried the vessel. + </p> + <p> + From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the + rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place on + that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day. + </p> + <p> + In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox in + good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till + October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on + November 6th of the same year. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San + </h2> + <p> + Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the + Examination of the Port of San Francisco + </p> + <p> + Your Excellency:—I have finished the orders under which I took + command of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, + November 6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San + Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, + together with the pilot, Don José Cañizares' report of his examination and + the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, + notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of San + Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from Cape + Horn. + </p> + <p> + After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor of + Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo and + making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July 27th, I + started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived on the + night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting by + myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that + pertains to this matter. + </p> + <p> + It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony that + offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh water, + wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is healthful and + free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in Monterey, because + the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, and once inside the + harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many advantages is to be added + the best: and this is that the heathen Indians around this port are so + constant in their good friendship and so gentle in their manners, that I + received them with pleasure on board several times, and I had the sailors + frequently visit with them on land; so that from the first to the last + day, they remained the same in their behavior. This made me present them + with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; the last they learned to ask for + clearly in our language. + </p> + <p> + There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, + enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was ordered of + me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my predecessor, Don + Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was possible we might + find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken by Captain Don Juan + de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer of another small land + expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don Fernando de Rivera, made me. + I did not see either of them while I remained in that port, but I did not, + on that account, postpone the reconnaissance. I could not do all of this + in person, because I was convalescing from a serious wound in my right + foot, received April 3d by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel + pistol, which Don Miguel Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. + Notwithstanding this, I am satisfied that Don José Cañizares executed with + his usual ability everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to + Your Excellency (in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), + that as long as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, + but showed such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my + troubles I found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my + duty. + </p> + <p> + On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I + considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no + wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring the + rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me to + enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and again + tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I noticed + in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because the + rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before had warned + me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, I determined to + pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on the 19th. At this port + I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came October 7th, and I left + for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my foot, but always desirous + to obey Your Excellency. + </p> + <p> + I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years. + </p> + <p> + San Blas, November 9, 1775. + </p> + <p> + Juan Manuel de Ayala. + </p> + <p> + To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco + </h2> + <h3> + Situated in Latitude 37° 53' North, Longitude 17° 10' West of San Blas + </h3> + <p> + By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala + </p> + <p> + Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas<a + href="#linknote-52" name="linknoteref-52" id="linknoteref-52"><small>52</small></a>, + latitude 37° 42', the following is to be seen: First that it<a + href="#linknote-53" name="linknoteref-53" id="linknoteref-53"><small>53</small></a> + is large, with two red barrancas<a href="#linknote-54" + name="linknoteref-54" id="linknoteref-54"><small>54</small></a>, and + second, that to the north there are three white rocks at a stone's throw<a + href="#linknote-55" name="linknoteref-55" id="linknoteref-55"><small>55</small></a>. + From that point the coast runs north-northeast, forming a small harbor in + which there are five submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some + white barrancas<a href="#linknote-56" name="linknoteref-56" + id="linknoteref-56"><small>56</small></a>, ending in a sloping bill which + top, to the north, is what is called Angel Point<a href="#linknote-57" + name="linknoteref-57" id="linknoteref-57"><small>57</small></a>. This has + near it several rocks<a href="#linknote-58" name="linknoteref-58" + id="linknoteref-58"><small>58</small></a>, the furtherest one a gunshot + distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient to accommodate any + vessel<a href="#linknote-59" name="linknoteref-59" id="linknoteref-59"><small>59</small></a>, + not only on account of its bottom, but because it is sheltered from all + winds excepting those from the west-southwest. The middle of this harbor + is to the northwest, where a copious creek empties<a href="#linknote-60" + name="linknoteref-60" id="linknoteref-60"><small>60</small></a>; the point + runs northeast 1/4 east. This harbor, with the one inside of it, which I + called San Jose<a href="#linknote-61" name="linknoteref-61" + id="linknoteref-61"><small>61</small></a>, has been found very good, with + the prevailing winds from the south to the northwest. + </p> + <p> + From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are seen, + distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a sugar-loaf. + To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve leagues, a + mountain<a href="#linknote-62" name="linknoteref-62" id="linknoteref-62"><small>62</small></a> + is seen which ends in a low point. According to the records of Sebastian + Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, this is the one called Point + Reyes. From this point the coast runs east-southeast in the shape of a + half-moon, open to all winds of the third quarter and ending in two + barrancas at the foot of which a low point comes out with two submerged + rocks. This point was called Santiago<a href="#linknote-63" + name="linknoteref-63" id="linknoteref-63"><small>63</small></a>, and, with + one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth of the channel of the + entrance of the port<a href="#linknote-64" name="linknoteref-64" + id="linknoteref-64"><small>64</small></a>. Following this shore in a + northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three small + rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter any vessel. + This harbor<a href="#linknote-65" name="linknoteref-65" id="linknoteref-65"><small>65</small></a> + ends on the north with a large, steep, and broken point, at the foot of + which there is a white farallon to which and to the point I gave the name + of San Carlos<a href="#linknote-66" name="linknoteref-66" + id="linknoteref-66"><small>66</small></a>, and with Point San José, which + is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this famous port. It + is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or leaves this port + must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos Point, because in + this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless the rudder, but + must take the middle of the channel or sail near the shores of San José + Point. + </p> + <p> + To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island<a + href="#linknote-67" name="linknoteref-67" id="linknoteref-67"><small>67</small></a> + is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides the + water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, + especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island where + water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of the island is + such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a pistol-shot of the + shore. + </p> + <p> + To the east-northeast of Point San José there is a sheltered harbor, + landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where + water and some wood are to be found<a href="#linknote-68" + name="linknoteref-68" id="linknoteref-68"><small>68</small></a>. In this + harbor there is no current, and for that reason, and because it is so near + the point I consider, it one of the best anchorages. + </p> + <p> + Once Points San José and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to + leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any + place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid is + the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its + branches three miles. + </p> + <p> + This report was made to me by Pilot Don José Cañizares, to whom I + entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map + </h2> + <p> + Report of the Pilot Don José de Cañizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala + </p> + <p> + Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the + Indies at Seville. + </p> + <p> + Dear Captain:—During the four times that I made reconnaissance of + this Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast + what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast of + Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a direction + north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the points + forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is about two + and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are three small + islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage of shallow + water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded with hills with + few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a distance to the + west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to be pines. In the middle + of this bay is standing a high farallon with submerged rocks around it. On + the northeast of it there is sufficient water for anchorage, as is shown + on the map. There is no doubt of its being good anchorage for vessels, + provided they have good cables and anchors, for they are subject to great + stress because of the current, which at this point, cannot be less than + four miles an hour<a href="#linknote-69" name="linknoteref-69" + id="linknoteref-69"><small>69</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where + there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south + ones<a href="#linknote-70" name="linknoteref-70" id="linknoteref-70"><small>70</small></a> + form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes to another bay<a + href="#linknote-71" name="linknoteref-71" id="linknoteref-71"><small>71</small></a> + more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight leagues, its shape a + perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided into two channels,—one, + on the side of the southwest coast, turns to the northwest at about the + distance of a mile and ends in two large harbors which are situated in the + same shore at about four league's distance from the mouth that + communicates with the first bay; from the northwest point of the furthest + harbor to the north of it, distant about one and a half leagues, in + turning a point to the west-northwest, a large body of water<a + href="#linknote-72" name="linknoteref-72" id="linknoteref-72"><small>72</small></a> + is seen, which I did not examine because the channel which leads to it is + extremely limited, its depth not having three codos<a href="#linknote-73" + name="linknoteref-73" id="linknoteref-73"><small>73</small></a> of water; + from here to the east-northeast follows a low-lying island, just above the + water level, ending in a division made by the hills<a href="#linknote-74" + name="linknoteref-74" id="linknoteref-74"><small>74</small></a>. The other + channel, which is roomy and deep, runs directly in a northeast direction + till it reaches the division of the hills through a cañon that runs in the + same direction. + </p> + <p> + All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it is + not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, + excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the + southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. + Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, + and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not + difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account of + the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its shore, I + did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in the cañon, + which is to the northeast, there is a channel<a href="#linknote-75" + name="linknoteref-75" id="linknoteref-75"><small>75</small></a> a mile and + a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a ranchería of + about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy + anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me for + that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was useful + to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes (amongst + them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting them four + times and found them always as friendly as the first time, noticing in + them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and retirement in the + women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with good will what is + given them, without being impertinent, as are many others I have seen + during the conquest. This Indian village has some scows or canoes, made of + tule, so well constructed and woven that they caused me great admiration. + Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing with two-ended oars with such + speed that I found they went faster than the launch. These were the only + Indians with whom I had communication in this northern part. + </p> + <p> + Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a + harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and + sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland + ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called it + Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of that + saint<a href="#linknote-76" name="linknoteref-76" id="linknoteref-76"><small>76</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + To the southeast of this port<a href="#linknote-77" name="linknoteref-77" + id="linknoteref-77"><small>77</small></a> the cañon continues, until it + joins the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three + leagues in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay<a + href="#linknote-78" name="linknoteref-78" id="linknoteref-78"><small>78</small></a> + with a depth of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers<a + href="#linknote-79" name="linknoteref-79" id="linknoteref-79"><small>79</small></a> + empty and take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the + same as in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is + the largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has + many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in very + low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their + mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. + This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second + occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on the + bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than the + Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult to obtain + wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is covered with + trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, and impossible + of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the north of Angel + Island. To the southeast of said island following the estero is as + follows: + </p> + <p> + To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is + another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth of + the channel in two<a href="#linknote-80" name="linknoteref-80" + id="linknoteref-80"><small>80</small></a>, through which the sea enters to + a distance of about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some + parts, one, two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its + width ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not + over two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a + point, a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry<a href="#linknote-81" + name="linknoteref-81" id="linknoteref-81"><small>81</small></a>. In every + part there are seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, + bunches of tule, and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, + since they are in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for + three leagues inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the + weather that strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against + the strong current from the north. + </p> + <p> + The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has in + its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of thick + redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, navigable + only by launches<a href="#linknote-82" name="linknoteref-82" + id="linknoteref-82"><small>82</small></a>, and on the coast two harbors<a + href="#linknote-83" name="linknoteref-83" id="linknoteref-83"><small>83</small></a> + where vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian + village, rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better + places for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance. + </p> + <p> + All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, and + sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the + reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as proof + of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter of + Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775. + </p> + <p> + José de Cañizares. + </p> + <p> + Index of Places + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Acapulco + Alcatraz Island + Almejas, El Rincon de las + Almejas, Punta del + Angel Island + Angel Point + Año Nuevo, Punta de + Arroyo de San Francisco + Arroyo Seco + Baker's Beach + Barranca + Ballenas Bay + Bonita, Point + Brazas + California, Baja + California, Gulf of + Cañada + Cañada do los Osos + Cañada do San Andres + Cármelo, Pt + Cármelo, bay + Cármelo, Rio del + Carquines, strait + Cerralbo, Bay of + Codo + Columbia river + Concepcion, Laguna de la + Concepcion, Point + Diegueños + Drake's Bay + El Buchon + El Oso Flaco + Ensenada + Farallones de San Francisco + Farallones, Gulf of + Florida + Fort Point + Golden Gate + Golden Gate, strait + Guadalupe, lake + Islais creek + Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de + La Paz, Bay of + La Paz, port of + Lime Point + Lobos creek + Loreto, presidio of + Los Angeles, City of + Los Angeles, river + Napa slough + Mare Island + Mendocino, Cape + Mescaltitan + Mission bay + Montara mountains + Monterey, Bay of + Monterey, Port of + Monterey, presidio and mission of + Muertos, Punta de los + Navidad, Puerto de + Oakland Flats + Pájaro, Rio del + Pedernales, Point + Philippine Islands + Pilar Point + Pinos, Punta de + Porciúncula, Indulgence + Puerto Dulce + Punta del Angel de la Guarda + Presidio anchorage + Ranchería + Reyes, Punta de los + Reyes, Rio de los + Richardson's bay + Red Rock + Ross, Fort + San Blas + San Buenaventura, mission of + San Carlos, Point + San Clemente, island + San Corpóforo, cañon + San Diego + San Diego, bay + San Diego, Founding of mission + San Diego, presidio of + San Elizario, Rio de + San Fernando, valley + San Francisco, Bahia ó Puerto de + San Francisco, Bay of + San Francisco, Port of + San Francisco, creek + San Gabriel, valley + San Joaquin river + San Jose, Point + San Juan Capistrano, mission of + San Lorenzo, Rio de + San Luis Obispo + San Luis Rey, mission of + San Miguel (island) + San Nicolas, Isla de + San Pablo bay + San Pedro bay + San Pedro Point + San Pedro valley + Santa Ana, Rio de + Santa Barbara Channel + Santa Barbara Isla de + Santa Barbara presidio of + Santa Catalina, island + Santa Clara, river + Santa Inez, river + Santa Lucia, Sierra de + Santa Maria, mission of + Santa Rosa, river + Santa Susana, Sierra de + Sacramento, river + Sal, Point + Salines, river + Santiago, Point + Seal Rocks + Suisun bay + Tamalpais, mountain + The Brothers (rocks) + The Sisters (rocks) + Tomales bay + Velicatá + Yerba Buena cove +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Index of Persons + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Aguilar, Martin + Aguirre, Juan B. + Alvarado, Juan Bautista + Amador, Pedro + Anza, Juan Bautista de + Arriaga, Julian de + Ayala, Juan Manuel + Bancroft, H. H. + Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la + Bolaños, Francisco + Bucareli, Antonio Maria + Bueno, Cabrera + Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues + Cañizares, José + Carrillo, José Raimundo + Cermeñon, Sebastian + Coronado, Francisco Vasquez + Cortes, Hernando + Corvan, Toribio Gomez de + Costansó, Miguel + Cota, Pablo de + Crespi, Juan + Davidson, George + De Gali, Francisco + De Soto, Hernando + Drake, Francis + Estorace, Jorge + Fages, Pedro + Ferrelo, Bartolomé + Figueroa, Rodriga de + Fletcher, Francis + Galvez, José de + Gomez, Fray Francisco + Griffin, George Butler + Heceta, Bruno de + Jiminez (Fortun) + Laut, Agnes C. + Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de + Lummis, Chas. F. + Maldonado, Gabriel + Manrique, Miguel + Mendoza, Antonio de + Monterey, Conde de + Morgana, Juan de + Oliveros, José Ignacio + Ortega, José Francisco + Palou, Fray Francisco + Perez, Juan + Parron, Fray Fernando + Pino, Miguel del + Portolá, Gaspar de + Prat, Pedro + Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de + Salcedo, Felipe + Serra, Fray Junípero + Soberanes, José Maria + Vancouver, Captain George + Velasco, Luis de + Vila, Vicente + Vizcaino, Fray Juan + Vizcaino, Sebastian + Yorba, José Antonio + Zúñiga y Asevedo, Gaspar de +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + FOOTNOTES: + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ Sierra de Santa Lucia.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ Audiencia, the highest + judicial body.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ The system of encomienda + conferred feudal rights upon the discoverers. The Indians became vassals + of Spanish lords.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Vizcaino says he set out on + the discovery of the coast of the South Sea with two ships, a lancha, and + a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small vessel having no deck and but one + mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas calls the vessel a fragata. A + barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long open boat.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ The second voyage of + Vizcaino is of particular interest to Californians for the reason that the + names given by him to the various geographical features of the coast still + remain. The particulars of the first voyage are taken largely from the + publications of the Southern California Historical Society of documents in + the Sutro collection.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ Sutro Col. Pub. Southern + California Hist. Socy.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ Prof. George Davidson + identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River in 42° 25'.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ About Cape San Quintin, the + latitude of their northernmost mission.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ Instruccion qua ha de + observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro Pages, 5 enero de 1769. + Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish Archives of California.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ So-called from the cuera, + a leathern jacket worn by them as a defensive armor.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ Out West. March-July, + 1902.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ Pancakes.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ Dead Men's Point. The + name has disappeared from the modern maps, but is found on all of the old + ones. It is the foot of H street where the cars for the Coronado ferry + turn on to the wharf.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ I am well aware that this + claim will be disputed by one whose study of original documents and power + of analysis make him perhaps the greatest authority on early California + History; but I am nevertheless prepared to maintain my position.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ Carga, 275 lbs.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ Hence the presidial + soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so distinguished from soldiers + of the regular army.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ Diario Historico de los + viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte de la California. Ms. Original + in Sutro Library.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ The league is the Spanish + league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ They also gave it the + name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th, they had just observed.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ Sometimes called the + Grand Pardon of Assisi—the great indulgence of the Franciscans. + Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church of Our Lady of the + Angeles of Porciúncula, it was, by apostolic indult, expanded to accompany + the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is enough for him to erect + an altar and that altar will be to him St. Mary of the Angels, and he will + there find the Porciúncula of the revelations. Whoso confesses and + receives the sacrament in the church of Porciúncula is granted plenary + remission of his sins in this world and the next. This indulgence is only + for August 2nd—that is, from the afternoon of August 1st until + sunset of August 2nd.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ It is to this incident + that the city of Los Angeles owes its name. The full baptismal name of the + city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los Angeles—Our Lady the Queen of + the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by royal order, the second pueblo + established in California.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ Ranchería is the name + given to an Indian village or town.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ The Valley of the Bears.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ The diarists applied the + word cañada to either a cañon or an open valley.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ The word ensenada, much + used by the Spanish explorers, means a bight or open roadstead, not an + enclosed and protected bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ "Transportar en Xamus al + Modo que cominan las mujeres en Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la + Nueva California, ii. 181.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ The names given on this + portion of the route have all disappeared, but are here given as a + suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ The Fleas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-29" id="linknote-29"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#linknoteref-29">return</a>)<br /> [ It must be borne in mind + that what they called the Bay or Port of San Francisco was that stretch of + water reaching from Point Reyes to Point San Pedro and later known as the + Gulf of the Farallones.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-30" id="linknote-30"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#linknoteref-30">return</a>)<br /> [ Professor George Davidson + says that what was seen by Portolá from the Montara mountains was the + break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep narrow valley which runs straight + from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay, fourteen miles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-31" id="linknote-31"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#linknoteref-31">return</a>)<br /> [ The Golden Gate and Bay + of San Francisco.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-32" id="linknote-32"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#linknoteref-32">return</a>)<br /> [ The Bay of San Francisco + continued to be called the "Estero," until some time after Colonel Anza + established the presidio and mission of San Francisco in 1776.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-33" id="linknote-33"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#linknoteref-33">return</a>)<br /> [ The present name, Cañada + de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov. 30, 1714.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-34" id="linknote-34"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 34 (<a href="#linknoteref-34">return</a>)<br /> [ On November, 1774, Rivera + came up the peninsula on an exploring expedition and on the spot where he + had camped with the first expedition in 1769, he planted a cross to mark + the place for a mission. In March, 1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, + coming to select sites for the Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, + notes this cross on the bank of the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San + Francisquito creek), about one hundred paces above the great redwood tree, + and says the plan for a mission there was abandoned because the creek was + dry in summer. I note this explanation because an excellent authority has + located Portolá's camp on Redwood creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-35" id="linknote-35"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#linknoteref-35">return</a>)<br /> [ I give to Ortega the + credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the Straits of Carquinez. The + testimony seems sufficient to me.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-36" id="linknote-36"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 36 (<a href="#linknoteref-36">return</a>)<br /> [ Vizcaino to the King, May + 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern California, Vol. ii, Part 1.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-37" id="linknote-37"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 37 (<a href="#linknoteref-37">return</a>)<br /> [ On the day of the Holy + Innocents it was not possible to say mass. We are sorry for it, because it + is the only feast day in all the journey up to the present that we have + been without mass. We are stuck in a mud hole and are unable to move from + the place where we are all wet through, and it is not possible to make a + journada to a plain that is dry for this is bubbling up water—Crespi, + Diario.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-38" id="linknote-38"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 38 (<a href="#linknoteref-38">return</a>)<br /> [ Crespi: Diario.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-39" id="linknote-39"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 39 (<a href="#linknoteref-39">return</a>)<br /> [ Palou: Noticias de la + Nueva California.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-40" id="linknote-40"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 40 (<a href="#linknoteref-40">return</a>)<br /> [ Invernate—to + winter.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-41" id="linknote-41"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 41 (<a href="#linknoteref-41">return</a>)<br /> [ Manuel Orozco y Berra, + Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an Mexico, Anales del Ministerio + de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo VI, p. 269. Documents in the + Archives of the Indies, Seville.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-42" id="linknote-42"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 42 (<a href="#linknoteref-42">return</a>)<br /> [ This is a summary of the + document. A full translation would be too tedious for a work of this + kind.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-43" id="linknote-43"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 43 (<a href="#linknoteref-43">return</a>)<br /> [ On the Tres Marias + Islands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-44" id="linknote-44"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 44 (<a href="#linknoteref-44">return</a>)<br /> [ Don Pedro Fages. + Commandante of California, who had been recalled.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-45" id="linknote-45"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 45 (<a href="#linknoteref-45">return</a>)<br /> [ Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., + says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July 24th. That was to make the sailing + fit the Bancroft theories.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-46" id="linknote-46"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 46 (<a href="#linknoteref-46">return</a>)<br /> [ Braza—Fathom: Six + feet.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-47" id="linknote-47"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 47 (<a href="#linknoteref-47">return</a>)<br /> [ Ayala anchored inside + Port Point—the Presidio anchorage.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-48" id="linknote-48"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 48 (<a href="#linknoteref-48">return</a>)<br /> [ Richardson's Bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-49" id="linknote-49"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 49 (<a href="#linknoteref-49">return</a>)<br /> [ Angel Island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-50" id="linknote-50"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 50 (<a href="#linknoteref-50">return</a>)<br /> [ Alcatraz—Pelican] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-51" id="linknote-51"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 51 (<a href="#linknoteref-51">return</a>)<br /> [ The Southern portion of + the bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-52" id="linknote-52"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 52 (<a href="#linknoteref-52">return</a>)<br /> [ Pt. San Pedro.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-53" id="linknote-53"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 53 (<a href="#linknoteref-53">return</a>)<br /> [ That is: Pt. Almejas or + Pt. San Pedro.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-54" id="linknote-54"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 54 (<a href="#linknoteref-54">return</a>)<br /> [ Barranca: The dictionary + definition is a ravine or gulch, but it also means a high bluff or cliff + and in that sense is used by these explorers.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-55" id="linknote-55"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 55 (<a href="#linknoteref-55">return</a>)<br /> [ i. e.: from Pt. Almejas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-56" id="linknote-56"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 56 (<a href="#linknoteref-56">return</a>)<br /> [ Cliff Rouse Rocks.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-57" id="linknote-57"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 57 (<a href="#linknoteref-57">return</a>)<br /> [ Punta del Angel de la + Guarda—Point Lobos.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-58" id="linknote-58"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 58 (<a href="#linknoteref-58">return</a>)<br /> [ Seal Rocks.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-59" id="linknote-59"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 59 (<a href="#linknoteref-59">return</a>)<br /> [ Bakers Beach.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-60" id="linknote-60"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 60 (<a href="#linknoteref-60">return</a>)<br /> [ Lobos Creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-61" id="linknote-61"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 61 (<a href="#linknoteref-61">return</a>)<br /> [ i. e.: Inside of Point + San Jose—Fort Point.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-62" id="linknote-62"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 62 (<a href="#linknoteref-62">return</a>)<br /> [ Tamalpais] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-63" id="linknote-63"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 63 (<a href="#linknoteref-63">return</a>)<br /> [ Point Bonita. The present + name was given it in 1776.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-64" id="linknote-64"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 64 (<a href="#linknoteref-64">return</a>)<br /> [ Golden Gate Strait.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-65" id="linknote-65"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 65 (<a href="#linknoteref-65">return</a>)<br /> [ i. e.: The outer harbor; + outside of the Golden Gate.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-66" id="linknote-66"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 66 (<a href="#linknoteref-66">return</a>)<br /> [ Lime Point.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-67" id="linknote-67"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 67 (<a href="#linknoteref-67">return</a>)<br /> [ Angel Island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-68" id="linknote-68"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 68 (<a href="#linknoteref-68">return</a>)<br /> [ The Presidio anchorage.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-69" id="linknote-69"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 69 (<a href="#linknoteref-69">return</a>)<br /> [ This is the body of water + between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt. Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. + The high farallon is Red Rock.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-70" id="linknote-70"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 70 (<a href="#linknoteref-70">return</a>)<br /> [ The rocks are The Sisters + and The Brothers.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-71" id="linknote-71"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 71 (<a href="#linknoteref-71">return</a>)<br /> [ San Pablo Bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-72" id="linknote-72"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 72 (<a href="#linknoteref-72">return</a>)<br /> [ Napa Slough. The marsh + was evidently under water, and island number one, with Mare Island, made + one long island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-73" id="linknote-73"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 73 (<a href="#linknoteref-73">return</a>)<br /> [ Codo—1 1/2 feet.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-74" id="linknote-74"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 74 (<a href="#linknoteref-74">return</a>)<br /> [ Mare Island. The division + of the hills or cañon is Carquines Strait.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-75" id="linknote-75"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 75 (<a href="#linknoteref-75">return</a>)<br /> [ Carquines Straits.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-76" id="linknote-76"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 76 (<a href="#linknoteref-76">return</a>)<br /> [ The Assumption of the + Virgin—August 15th. It is Southampton bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-77" id="linknote-77"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 77 (<a href="#linknoteref-77">return</a>)<br /> [ That is, from Puerto de + la Asumpta.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-78" id="linknote-78"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 78 (<a href="#linknoteref-78">return</a>)<br /> [ Suisun Bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-79" id="linknote-79"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 79 (<a href="#linknoteref-79">return</a>)<br /> [ The Sacramento and San + Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto Dulce—Freshwater Port.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-80" id="linknote-80"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 80 (<a href="#linknoteref-80">return</a>)<br /> [ Yerba Buena or Goat + Island. Cañizaries marked it on the map (c) for isla do Alcatraces, but + that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of the entry in the Log + under date of August 12, with the map will show.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-81" id="linknote-81"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 81 (<a href="#linknoteref-81">return</a>)<br /> [ Oakland and Berkeley tide + flats.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-82" id="linknote-82"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 82 (<a href="#linknoteref-82">return</a>)<br /> [ Islais creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-83" id="linknote-83"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 83 (<a href="#linknoteref-83">return</a>)<br /> [ Yerba Buena cove and + Mission bay.] + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. 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