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diff --git a/4978-8.txt b/4978-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..07d47f8 --- /dev/null +++ b/4978-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2974 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The March of Portolá + and, The Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents + Translated and Annotated + +Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +Posting Date: March 20, 2009 [EBook #4978] +Release Date: January, 2004 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan + + + + + + + +THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + + +By Zoeth S. Eldredge + + + + + +Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents Translated and Annotated + + +By E. J. Molera + + + +Published by the Reception Committee of The California Promotion +Committee + + + +This Book is published with the approval and endorsement of the +Executive Committee of the Portolá Festival. + + + +The March of Portolá + +and + +The Log of the San Carlos + + + + San Francisco + + + "Serene, indifferent of fate, + Thou sittest at the Western Gate; + + Upon thy heights so lately won, + Still slant the banners of the sun; + + Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, + O warder of two continents, + + And scornful of the peace that flies, + Thy angry winds and sullen skies, + + Thou drawest all things, small or great, + To thee beside the Western Gate." + + + +Table of Contents + + + Introduction + The March of Portolá and Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + Data regarding Portolá after he left California + Letter of the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga + Causes that led to the Expedition of the San Carlos + Log of the San Carlos + Report of the Commander of the San Carlos + Description of the Bay of San Francisco + Report of the Pilot of the San Carlos + + + +Illustrations + + The March to Monterey (Frontispiece) + Carrying the Sick + Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + Departure of the San Carlos from La Paz + Facsimile of signature of Governor Portolá + First Survey and Map of the Bay of San Francisco + + + + +Introduction + +In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives +of heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record +of Spanish exploration in America. To those of us who have come into +possession of the fair land opened up by them, the story of their +travels and adventures have the most profound interest. The account +of the expedition of Portolá has never been properly presented. Many +writers have touched on it, and H. H. Bancroft, in his History of +California, gives a brief digest of Crespi's diary. Most writers on +California history have drawn on Palou's Vida del V. P. F. Junipero +Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and without looking further, +have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We have endeavored in +this sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the conditions which +preceded and led up to the occupation of California. + +The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific +was early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but +small respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World +between Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated +expeditions into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two +ships to look in Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea, +one of which bore the significant name of California. The voyage of +Francis Drake, 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay +he proclaimed the sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New +Albion. Two hundred years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver +explored the coast of California down to thirty degrees of north +latitude (Ensenada de Todos Santos), which, he says, "is the +southernmost limit of New Albion, as discovered by Sir Francis Drake, +or New California, as the Spaniards frequently call it." Even after +the occupation and settlement by the Spaniards, so feeble were their +establishments that, as Vancouver reports to the Admiralty, it +would take but a small force to wrest from Spain this most valuable +possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain presaged the time +when her hold upon America would be loosened, the standard of individual +heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of Portolá and of Anza +rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The California explorer did +not, it is true, have to fight his way through hordes of fierce natives. +The California Indians, as a rule, received the white adventurers +gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as they had to offer, +but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were but a poor lot. +In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea swarming with fish, +a soil capable of growing every character of foodstuff, these miserable +natives lived in a chronic state of starvation. + +As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portolá upholds +the best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon +the character of the leader. Pánfilo de Narváez landed on the coast of +Florida in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men +and forty horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the +previous June, and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida, +only four lived to reach civilization--the rest perished. That is +but one example of incompetent leadership. When Portolá organized his +expedition for the march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his +soldiers were ill from scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick +list numbered nineteen men, including the governor and Rivera, his chief +officer. Sixteen men had to be carried, and to three, in extremis, the +viaticum was administered; but he brought them all through, and returned +to San Diego without the loss of a man. + +There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and +the other by Alférez Costansó. There is, besides, a diary of Junípero +Serra of the march from Velicatá to San Diego Bay, a translation of +which is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902. +It is of small value to the student of history. There is a diary by +Portolá, quoted by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by +Bancroft. These we have not seen. There are letters from Francisco +Palou, Juan Crespi and Miguel Costansó, printed in Out West for January +1902. The diary of Father Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la +Nueva California. Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San +Francisco, 1874. The diary of Miguel Costansó is in the Sutro library. +It has never been printed. It is prefaced by an historical narrative, a +poor translation of which was published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, +and a better one by Chas. F. Lummis in Out West, June-July, 1901. In +Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California, Vol. II, +Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of documents of the Sutro collection +are printed, with translations by George Butler Griffin. These relate to +the explorations of the California coast by ships from the Philippines, +the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some letters of Junípero Serra, and +diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to the northern coast in 1774. + +The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original +documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful +survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by +the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions +and language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted +are Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva +California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C. +Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties +of Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The +Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on +the Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of +the Geographical Society of the Pacific. + +In view of the forthcoming Portolá Festival, The California Promotion +Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its +members to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement +of California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life +and character of Portolá, the committee has been enabled, through the +efforts of one of its members, to have careful search made among the +archives of Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of +Mexico, and of Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet, +concerning Portolá, we have received other documents of the utmost +importance to the history of San Francisco: a chronicle of the events +following the discovery of the Bay. + +By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the +northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the +year 1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the +commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos, +under Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. +To Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San +Francisco, while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north. +Bodega discovered the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his +name as it is usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft +(History of California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his +short and incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate +that neither map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is +with pleasure we are permitted to present to the public these important +documents, now printed for the first time, and only regret that the +shortness of time allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later +some minor corrections. + +We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don José +Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San +Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan +Manuel de Ayala. + +Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He +entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made +Alférez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alférez de Navio, June 15, 1769; +Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776; +and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782. + +When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala +was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz +in August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by +Viceroy Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner +Sonora. The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the +commander of the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad. +Ayala was ordered to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to +San Blas with the unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days +later. + +In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New +Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and +until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In +August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the +San Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to +Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal +order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of +his services to California. He died December 30, 1797. + + Zoeth S. Eldredge, + E. J. Molera, + Charles H. Crocker, + + San Francisco, August, 1909.--Committee. + + + + + +THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + +By Zoeth S. Eldredge + + +The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement +of California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to +save the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of +a monarch solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political +exigencies of the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil +governors sink into insignificance and become mere executives of the +priestly will, while the heroic efforts of Junípero Serra to convert the +natives, his courage in the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his +unwearied devotion, make him the impelling factor in the colonization of +California. + +Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into +California strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of +Fray Francisco Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junípero, +that all historians turn for the account of the occupation. Fray +Palou details the glorious life of the leader with whom he toiled; he +eulogizes the worthy priest, the ardent missionary, as he passed up and +down the length of the land, founding missions, planting the vine, the +olive, and the fruit tree in a land whose inhabitants had often +suffered from hunger; giving aid and comfort to the sick and weary +and consolation to the dying. Indeed, the pictures of the padres are +fascinating. The infant establishments planted by the church grew rich +and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the administration of the +priests and so generous their hospitality, that life in California in +the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost dolce far +niente existence. + +Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junípero drawn by Palou, the +careful investigator will find that the impelling factor in the +occupation of California was stern military necessity, not missionary +zeal. From the time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the +Pacific up to forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery, +but more than two hundred years had passed and she had done nothing +towards making good this right by settlement. The country was open to +colonization by any nation strong enough to maintain and protect its +colonies. + +Before relating the story of Portolá's march, let us consider for a +moment the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other +European nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it +necessary to occupy the country. + +When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent +his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his +grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable +route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from +Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones, +thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward, +following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made +a landfall on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape +Mendocino. A sail of two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of +California and New Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco. +This route was charted by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for +nearly three centuries was the one followed by the galleons of Spain +sailing from Manila to Acapulco. The voyage across the Pacific was a +long one and ships in distress were obliged to put about and make for +Japan. A harbor on the coast of California in which ships could find +shelter and repair damages was greatly desired. A survey of the unknown +coasts of the South Sea, as it was called, was ordered, and it was also +suggested that the explorations be extended beyond the forty-second +degree of north latitude, it being held that the coast was a part of +the same continent as that of China, or only separated therefrom by +the narrow strait of Anian, which was believed to open in latitude +forty-two. + +Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California +was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by +his chief pilot, Bartolomé Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as +far north as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the +entrance to the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible +storms in San Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died. +Ferrelo took command and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in +honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. + +On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden +Hinde, took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's +Bay. He took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, +and named it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain +Fletcher writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have +some affinity with our own country." It was in this place and at this +time that the first English service was held in America, by Master +Francis Fletcher, chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in +Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, commemorates the event. + +Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship, +supplied himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the +Southeast Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the +25th sailed across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good +Hope. + +In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was +directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather +would permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land +and the harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all +that he accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he +accomplished anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude +37° 30' (Pillar Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that +the mountains[1] were without snow, and that there were many indications +of rivers, bays, and havens along the coast. + +In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermeñon, a Portuguese sailor in the service +of Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of +Gali. In an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San +Agustin. It is supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was +beached in Drake's Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a +boat, called a viroco, and in this the ship's company of more than +seventy persons continued the homeward voyage. The little vessel reached +Puerto de Navidad in safety, and here the commander and part of the +company left it in charge of the pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of +ten men, who brought it into Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; +a most remarkable voyage of nearly twenty-five hundred miles by +shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded into an open boat. With the +loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the California coast by laden +ships from the Philippines came to an end. + +Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis +de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to +the exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of +the land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at +the expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and +trade, together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually +given to the pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for +the expedition were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader +and his partners in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the +courts. Before a decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge +ordered the other partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to +begin the voyage to the Californias within three months. Under this +order, Vizcaino applied to Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission +to make the journey. This was the condition of affairs when, on October +5, 1596, Velasco was relieved and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zúñiga y +Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took command. At Velasco's request, Zúñiga +made a careful examination of all matters pertaining to the expedition +to the Californias, and the result was not favorable to Vizcaino. The +new viceroy did not think that an enterprise which might involve results +of such vast importance should be entrusted to the leadership of a +person of such obscure position and limited capital. He also doubted +if Vizcaino had the resolution and capacity necessary for so great an +undertaking, and it appeared to him that if disorders should arise among +his men through lack of discipline, or if the natives of the country to +which he was going should repel him, the repute and royal authority of +the king would be in danger. On the other hand, there was the decision +of the court, the concession of the viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino +had already been at expense in the matter. Zúñiga communicated his +doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his perplexity, submitted the +question to a theologian and a jurist, selected as the viceroy writes, +from the number of those whose opinions were entitled to the greatest +consideration. Their decision was that the concession of the viceroy had +the force of an agreement and contract; that what was at first a +favor had become a right, and that, as the captain had manifested no +incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact could not be +varied. The audiencia[2], before whom Zúñiga also laid the matter, was +of like opinion. In view, therefore, of the length to which the affair +had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul the contract but to do all +in his power to insure the success of the expedition. That Vizcaino's +soldiers might respect and esteem him, the viceroy clothed him with +authority and showed him the greatest honor. He required Vizcaino to +furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories of the ships and +lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails and tackle, the +number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, ammunition, and all +other property, and he instructed the royal officers at Acapulco that +the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was fully provided +with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of the people. +The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zúñiga's report, ordered him +to cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for the +expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino +had sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six +hundred tons; the San José, a smaller ship, under command of Captain +Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in +March, 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast +of Colima, where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this +point the watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that +Vizcaino complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the +conduct of his soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape +Corrientes, thence northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan. +From Mazatlan he bore west-northwest across the Gulf of California and +landed in a large bay which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as +the Bay of Cerralbo. From here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named +because of the peaceful character of the Indians, who received him +hospitably with presents of fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is +supposed, the place where Jimenez, the discoverer of California, lost +his life in 1533, and where Córtez planted his ill-fated colony two +years later. In entering the bay, the flagship ran on a shoal, and +they were obliged to cut away her masts and lighten her of her cargo of +provisions, a great part of which was wet and lost. Here Vizcaino landed +and built a stockade fort, and leaving the dismantled flagship and the +married men of his company under command of his lieutenant, Figueroa, he +sailed on October 3rd, with the San José and the lancha and eighty men +to explore the gulf. He encountered severe storms which separated his +vessels, and not having proper discipline among his men, had trouble +with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen men were lost by +the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back to La Paz, where +his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their comrades, +demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions was +running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the +lancha, he sent them back, and with the San José and forty of the +more adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the +headwaters of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong +north winds, and only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then +yielding to the demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles +of Mazatlan. + +The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, +but he made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land +double the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its +seas abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds, +in quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea; +while in the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the +northwest, were people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and +silver ornaments, cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the +country (turkeys), and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told +him--not only in one place but in many. He desired permission to +make another voyage, and as the late expedition had exhausted his own +resources, asked that he be granted thirty-five thousand dollars from +the royal treasury and outfitting for his ships. These advances he +agreed to repay from the first gain received by him during the voyage. +He also asked, on behalf of those who accompanied him, that the +countries brought by him into subjection to the crown be given to them +encomienda for five lives[3]; that they be made gentlemen and granted +all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that other gentlemen enjoy, +not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in Spain. For these +and for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with five ships, +equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, arms and +ammunition, provisions, etc.--all things necessary for the voyage. +He would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones and +valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish taken, +and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make +discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take +possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements, +build forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one +hundred leagues. + +Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as +he had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council +decided that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zúñiga +favored Don Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council +ordered that Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all +necessary funds; it granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, +and that the discoverers should have all the privileges of gentlemen +throughout the Indies. It also granted other minor privileges and boons +asked for. Vizcaino was made captain-general of the expedition, and +sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, with orders to explore the coasts of +the Californias from Cape San Lucas to Cape Mendocino, or as far north +as latitude forty-two. His ships were the San Diego, flagship, the Santo +Tomas, under Toríbio Gomez de Corvan, the Tres Reyes, a small fragata +or tender, under Alférez Martin Aguilar, and a barcolongo for exploring +rivers and bays[4]. The chief pilot of the expedition was Francisco +Bolaños who had been one of the pilots with Cermeñon on the lost San +Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites looked after the spiritual needs +of the adventurers. The story of this second voyage of Vizcaino is well +known. On the 10th of November, they were in the Bay of San Diego, which +Vizcaino named for San Diego de Alcalá, whose day, November 14th, they +spent in the bay, ignoring the name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo +sixty years before. Later in the month he entered and named San Pedro +bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, +it was. He also named the islands still known as Santa Catalina and San +Clemente. He next sailed through and named the Canal de Santa Barbara, +which saint's day, December 4th, was observed while in the channel, and +also named Isla de Santa Barbara and Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta +de la Concepcion, which he named[5], Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a +thick fog, which lifting on December 14th, revealed to the voyagers +the lofty coast range usually sighted by the ships coming from the +Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a river flowing from high +hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To the mountains he gave +the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of the Saint whose day +(December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the stream he named Rio +del Cármelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. Rounding a high wooded +point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he dropped anchor in Monterey +bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found the much desired harbor of +refuge, and he named it for his patron, the Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino +made the most of his discovery, and in a letter to the king, written in +Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602[6], he gives a most glowing description +of the bay, which is, at best, but an open roadstead. The Indians, as +usual, told him of large cities in the interior, which they invited him +to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. His provisions were almost gone, +his men were sick with scurvy, of which many had died, and putting the +most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he sent her to Acapulco for +aid, and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the flagship and fragata, for +the north. A storm soon separated the vessels and they did not see each +other again until they met in the harbor of Acapulco. Vizcaino was told +by the pilot, Bolaños, that Cermeñon had left in Drake's Bay a large +quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he entered the bay on +January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or cargo. He did not +land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did not appear, +he became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of her. On the +13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. This +was followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in +latitude forty-two--the limit of his instructions--with Cape Blanco in +sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, "towards +Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six of his +men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, +where he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him, +forty-two had died. + +In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied +and provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He +directed that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition. +His orders were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan, +whence he returned in 1613, and died three years later. + +For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the +pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued +to make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail +down the coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge +was established and no attempt was made to colonize the country. + +At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his +possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection. +Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had +crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska, +and their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into +more southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was +ready to turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The +Family Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had +aroused the ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved +to demand an explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack +her at home and abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was +time for humbling the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet +caused Pitt's resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power +with vigor and arrogance unabated. + +On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree +expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had +established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de +Portolá, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed +governor of the Californias and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five +dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to +dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the +Franciscans. + +The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the +northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take +effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger +of invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a +person of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out +so great an undertaking, Don José de Galvez, visitador-general of the +kingdom and member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services +and volunteered to go to Lower California and effect the organization +and equipment of the expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and +Galvez set out from the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on +the coast of New Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken +by a courier from the viceroy bringing orders just received from the +court directing that a maritime expedition should be at once dispatched +to Monterey and that port fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas +on the 16th of May, 1768, the señor visitador laid before them the +situation and the wishes of the king. He stated that on the exterior or +occidental coasts of the Californias, Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas +on the south to the Rio de los Reyes[7] in 43 degrees, though the only +portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up to 30° 30'.[8] The civilized +or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon--people of reason) +did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, including the +families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those of the +miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to establish +themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, they might +fortify themselves there before the government could receive notice +of it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New Spain +there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built in +San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small +tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications +between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted +all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign +invasion. All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present +the commandant of the department and the army officers and pilots who +chanced to be there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the +San Carlos and San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships, +while Galvez proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of +supplies and provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid +under contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions +to be established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule +herd; for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition +by one by land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long +sea-voyage should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don +Gaspar de Portolá, volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named +commander-in-chief. Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the +presidio of Loreto, was appointed second in command. The troops were +composed of forty cavalrymen from the presidio of Loreto in Lower +California, under Rivera, and twenty-five infantrymen of the compania +franca of Catalonia, under Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial +troops were joined thirty Christian Indians from the missions, armed +with bows and arrows. These were intended for the land expedition. The +mission of Santa Maria, the northernmost mission on the peninsula, was +the rendezvous of the land forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded +with provisions for the land expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay +of San Luis Gonzaga, the nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria, +whither also went by land the troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the +herd of every sort. Finding insufficient pasturage for the cattle at +Santa Maria, they advanced to Velicatá, some thirty miles distant, and +here was assembled the land expedition. In addition to the officers +named, Don Miguel Costansó, ensign of royal engineers, was ordered to +join the expedition as cosmographer and diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was +appointed physician. To minister to the soldiers and take charge of the +missions to be established in the new land, the following missionary +priests, all of the college of San Fernando in Mexico, were named to +accompany the expedition. Fray Junípero Serra, appointed president of +the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, Fray Fernando Parron, +Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez. + +On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was +loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junípero Serra sang mass +aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and +the standards. The visitador named the Señor San José patron of the +expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those +about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans +of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alférez +Miguel Costansó, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The +ship was commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy; +the mate was Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two +boys, four cooks, and two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's +company--sixty-two in all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and +sailed on the 10th. Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas--chief of +the military expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of +the soldiers on land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey[9]. +On the 15th of February, Father Junípero performed like offices for +the San Antonio, and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan +Perez, "of the navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino +and Gomez, some carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the +sailors, made some ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The +rendezvous was San Diego bay, where all were to meet. + +The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division, +under Rivera, started from Velicatá March 24th, and the second, under +command of the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre +Crespi, Pilotin (Mate) Jose Cañizares. Twenty-five soldados de +cuera[10], three muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians--forty-two men. +With the governor marched Junípero Serra, fifteen soldados de cuera, +under Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers and +Indians--forty-four in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being Easter +Sunday, Junípero established the Mission of San Fernando with Fray +Miguel de la Campa as Minister. For the succor and relief of the forces, +both sea and land, Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he named in +honor of the protector of the expedition, the San Jose, and loading +her with supplies and provisions, sent her with orders to meet the +expedition at Monterey. She was lost at sea. + +There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles +through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junípero's diary lies +before me[11]; it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, +the Indians they met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, +etc.; no course, no distances traveled, or other like information +necessary to an understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he +is not to be compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight +of the sea at the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was +by the sea until they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San +Diego, their Indian allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the +Diegueños, whom they began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally +lot. They thronged the camp and became a perfect nuisance with their +begging and stealing. They begged from Junípero his robe and from the +governor his cuera, waistcoat, breeches, and all he had on. One of them +succeeding in inducing Junípero to take off his spectacles to show +them to him and as soon as he got them in his hands made off with them, +causing the priest a thousand difficulties to recover them. On the 27th +of June Sergeant Ortega, with his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and +announced to the anxious camp the proximity of the governor. Rivera sent +ten of his soldiers with fresh horses back with Ortega, and Portolá, +in advance of his command, reached the camp June 29th, and the entire +division arrived, June 30th, in good order and condition, forty-six days +from Velicatá. + +Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other +divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the +placid waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more +formidable than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when +on the 11th of April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and +dropped her anchor not far from the point where now the ferry boat for +Coronado leaves the slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at +the rendezvous. No attempt was made to land, for they were alone and +dread scurvy had them in its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's +company were sick. On the 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La +Paz, with her company in even worse condition. All were sick, some had +died, and only four sailors remained on their feet, aided in working the +ship by such of the soldiers as were able to help. She had been driven +far out of her course; had found herself short of water, and had to +put into the island of Cedros to supply herself, and it was with the +greatest difficulty she reached the bay of San Diego. The first thing +to be done was to find good water and to minister to the sick. For this +purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro Fages, Don Miguel Costansó, +and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five men-soldiers, sailors, etc., +all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding up the shore, found, by +direction of some Indians, a river of good mountain water at a distance +of three leagues to the northeast. Moving their ships as near as they +could, they prepared on the beach a camp, which they surrounded with a +parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted two cannon. Within they made +two large hospital tents from the sails and awnings of the ships, and +set up the tents of the officers and priests. Then they transferred the +sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, and the list of those +able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The difficulties of their +situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines and food had been +consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the surgeon, +himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand anxieties +some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as the +others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun burned +them by day--alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, two or +three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which had +been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight +soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of +the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the +care of the sick. + +There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of +the fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none +were discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At +length, on the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on +the beach that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and +armed as they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera, +fifty days from Velicatá, without the loss of a man or having a sick +one; but they were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour +left and were issuing two tortillas[12] per day to each man. Great +was the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's +force. It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This +was done, and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known +as "Old Town," where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. +The surgeon, Pedro Prat, devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths +continued, until of the ninety and more who had sailed from La Paz, +two-thirds were laid under the sand of Punta de los Muertos[13]. It was +now thought best to send one of the packets to San Blas to inform the +viceroy and the visitador of the state of the expedition, and it was +feared that if this were longer delayed, the ship would be unable to +put to sea for lack of mariners. The San Antonio was selected for this +purpose, and was prepared for sea, but as she was about to sail, the +camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by the arrival of Portolá and +the second division, sound in body, and with 163 mules laden with +provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of the condition of +affairs, and desirous that the señor visitador's orders concerning the +sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain Vila of the San +Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that he might +pursue the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's officers, +boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was not a +sailor among the men offered by Portolá, he declined to go to sea under +such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on +board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight +men only for a crew. + +The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to +Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season +should expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra +closed by snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the +sierras covered with snow on their arrival in April. + +On the 14th of July, Portolá began his march to Monterey, distant one +hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega, +with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan +volunteers--all that could travel, Ensign Costansó, the priests, Crespi +and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the missions +of Lower California, and two servants--sixty-four in all. Both Fages and +Costansó were sick with scurvy, but joined the command notwithstanding. +The personnel of this expedition contains some of the best known names +in California. Portolá, the first governor; Rivera, comandante of +California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on the Colorado +in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773, governor, +1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the Golden Gate +and of Carquines Strait[14]; lieutenant and brevet captain, comandante +of the presidio of San Diego, of Santa Barbara, and of Monterey; +founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara and of the missions of San Juan +Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the rank and file were men whose +names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who gave his name to Amador +county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of Governor Alvarado; José +Raimundo Carrillo, later alférez, lieutenant, and captain, comandante +of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and of San Diego, and +founder of the great Carrillo family; José Antonio Yorba, sergeant of +Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that name and grantee of +the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota, José Ignacio Oliveras, +José Maria Soberanes, and others. + +At San Diego, Portolá left the sick under the care of the faithful +surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the +San Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junípero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and +Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California +Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them +a sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads[15] of +provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portolá expedition started, +Junípero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San Diego +de Alcalá, the first mission established in Alta California. The deaths +continued, and before Portolá's return in January, eight soldiers, four +sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about twenty +persons at the camp. + +We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship, +San Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have +seen, was lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San +Antonio, the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, +took with him one hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he +concluded, to last him for six months. + +On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with +six or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected +the camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was +frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante, +with Fages, Costansó, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia +volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with +spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers; +these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of +pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers. +The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the +spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada). + +The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive +and defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) +and the adarga (shield)[16]. The first, being made in the form of a coat +without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses of dressed +deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very short range. +The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on the left +arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his horse +against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used a +species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with +a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to +cover the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding +through the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms +were the lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback, +the broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costansó, who was +an officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor +of the presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they +were men capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and +active; "and it is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen +in the world, and among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the +service of the king."[17] + +It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train +through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones. +It was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next, +and the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be +traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be +had. The distance made was from two to four leagues[18], and the command +rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue caused by +the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the wandering off +of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costansó says that one +of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their caballada +(horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a country +they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most +incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover +a coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any +of these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many +leagues, precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without +any human effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense +toil to gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled, +remain of no service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the +Spaniards made their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more +fertile and pleasing as they progressed northward. + +The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became +the Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the +pretty valley where later was established the mission of San Luis +Rey. They called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards +transferred to a mission forty miles north of this place. The command +rested here, July 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San +Onofre), whose base they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it +seemed to threaten their advance, but by keeping close to the shore, +they held their way, and on the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of +water running through a mesa at the foot of a sierra, whence looking +across the sea, they could descry Santa Catalina Island. This was San +Juan Capistrano, and here they rested on the 25th. On the 28th they +reached the Santa Ana river, near the present town of that name; a +violent shock of earthquake which they experienced caused them to name +the river Jesus de los Temblores[19]. July 30th and 31st they were in +the San Gabriel valley, which they called San Miguel, and on August 1st +they rested near the site of the present city of Los Angeles. The +stop this day, in addition to the needed rest and the necessity for +exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers and people of the +expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciúncula.[20] The priests +said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon the +soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with which +the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles +river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra +Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula[21]. Passing up the river, they +went through the cañon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they +called Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos--Valley of St. Catherine +of the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa +Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo cañon, they came to the Santa +Clara river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th. +Portolá named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor +of the saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days, +by easy jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th +at the first rancheria[22] of the Channel Indians. It being the vespers +of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Señora, Portolá named the village +La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed houses +of clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. These +Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and very +skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles. +Portolá thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de +Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission +of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them +kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made +boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with +cords and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each. +The next four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th, +at a large laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was +the site of the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere +were large populous rancherías of the Indians, and everywhere they were +received in the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than +they could eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of +a large lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was +a large ranchería, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon. +Portolá gave to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherías +de Mescaltitan--The Contiguous Rancherías of Mescaltitan. The name of +Mescaltitan is still attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly +drained and contains some of the finest walnut groves in California. On +the 28th, they turned Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place +called by them Paraje de los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five +miles beyond, preserves the name. On the 30th they crossed a large +river, which they named the Santa Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose +day it was. This is now the Santa Inez, so called from the mission of +that name, established on its bank in 1804. Passing northward along the +beach, a sharp spur of the sierra jutting out at Point Sal turned them +inland through the little pass followed by the Southern Pacific Coast +Line, and they came, on September 10th, to a large lake in the northwest +corner of Santa Barbara county, to which was given the name of Laguna +Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. Three leagues beyond, they camped at +a lake named by Costansó, Laguna Redonda, but which the soldiers called +El Oso Flaco--The Thin Bear--and it is still known by that name. Here +Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and ten of the soldiers complained of +sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on the 4th reached the mouth of +the San Luis cañon. Here they were hospitably received by the chief of +a large ranchería, whose appearance caused the soldiers to apply to him +the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor hanging from his neck. +Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the soldiers applied +to the chief, his ranchería, and to the cañon leading up to San Luis +Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many cases the +good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint has +been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount +Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying +qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow cañon +of San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and +city of San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the +Sierra de Santa Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley, +whence the march to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the +west and followed the Cañada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which +they called El Estero de San Serafin. The Cañada de los Osos[23], still +so called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears, +one of which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls. +Another wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their +lives. + +The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came +to a point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars, +blocks the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three +thousand feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portolá +sent out the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the +mountains. During the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way +into the sierra through San Carpóforo cañon, and on the 16th the command +moved up the steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on +either side. It is impossible to follow their route through this rugged +mountain range with any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and +painful. On the 20th, they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the +north, and from its summit the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea +of mountains, "presenting," writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor +travelers worn out with the fatigue of the journey." The cold was +beginning to be severe, and many of the men were suffering from scurvy +and unfit for service, which increased the hardship for all; yet they +did not falter but pressed bravely on, and on the 26th emerged from +the mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they named the Cañada del Palo +Caido[24] (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and camped on the Salinas river, +which they christened Rio de San Elizario. From now on the march is an +easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea. + +On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the +Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see +it. They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of +Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably +that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the +voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno. +The governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part +of the coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers, +explored the coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the +very port they were seeking, while Portolá, with Costansó, Crespi, and +five soldiers, climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada, +the northern point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore +northwest at a distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south +a hill ran out into the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be +wooded with pines. They recognized the one on the north as the Punta de +Año Nuevo and that on the south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two +lay the great ensenada[25], with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid +down in the coast pilot (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the +famous port of Monterey? + +They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit +they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was +continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between +it and another point to the south (Point Cármelo) was a small ensenada, +where a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into +an estero; that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they +were obliged to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra +which compelled them to leave the coast on the 16th of September. + +Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of +officers to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday, +October 4th, the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid +the matter before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of +provisions, the seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the +excessive burden of labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care +of the animals, and continual explorations, and to the lateness of the +season. In view of these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of +Monterey could not be found where it was said to be, each person present +was called upon to express freely his opinion. + +Costansó spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37°; they had only +reached 36° 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37° 30', so as +either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for +going up to 37° or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish +themselves somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go +forward and put his trust in God. If they found the desired port of +Monterey and therein the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If +Monterey did not appear, they would find a place for a settlement; but +if it should be the will of God that all were to perish, they would have +discharged their duty to God and man in laboring until death in their +endeavor to accomplish the enterprise on which they had been sent. To +this decision all agreed, and signed their names to the compact. + +Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and +locate camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of +October, the march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of +their limbs. Each night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they +were put into hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried +in the mode of travel used by the women of Andalusia[26]. The march +was slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last +extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to +three, who were thought to be dying. + +On this day they crossed the Rio del Pájaro, which they named because +of a great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which +measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of +the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were +preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the +approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on +hand, gave the river the name La Señora Santa Ana, but again the saint +was ignored, and the river is known as the Pájaro (Bird). On the 17th +they crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the +present city of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Año +Nuevo, and camped at the entrance of the cañon of Waddell creek. They +recognized Point Año Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno, +and Crespi estimated that it was one league distant from the camp. With +good water and fuel, the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both +Portolá and Rivera were now added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables +had given out and the rations were reduced to five tortillas of bran +and flour per day. Crespi named the camp San Luis Beltran, while the +soldiers called it La Cañada de Salud. On the 23d, they again moved +forward, passing Punta de Año Nuevo and, traveling two leagues, camped +probably on Gazos creek, where was a large Indian ranchería, whose +inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which was about opposite +Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan Nepomuceno[27]. The +next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San +Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an +epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw +their end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea +seemed to relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers +began to be less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de +los Cursos, and Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable +to travel on the 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th, +they pressed forward. The next stop was Purisima creek, two short +leagues distant, but the way was rough, and the pioneers had to make +roads across three arroyos where the descents were steep and difficult +for the transportation of the invalids. On the bank of the stream was an +Indian ranchería, apparently deserted. The Spaniards took possession +of the huts, but soon came running forth with cries of "las pulgas! las +pulgas![28]" They preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called +the camp Ranchería de las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the +28th they camped on Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon +Bay. They named the camp El Llano de los Ansares--The Plain of the Wild +Geese--and Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the +command was ill; the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food +very short. They contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it +rained heavily and Portolá, who was very ill, decided to rest on the +29th. On Monday, October 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and +Pillar Point were noted but no names given. Several deep arroyos were +crossed, some of which required the building of bridges to get the +animals over. They proceeded up the shore until a barrier of rock +confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in a rincon (corner) +formed by the sierra and sheltered from the north wind they camped +while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over the +Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they +named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and +other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta +del Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the +Montara fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers +had prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and +at ten o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the +exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous +sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them, +bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing +in the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea, +rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left, +west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally +along the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what +appeared to be the mouth of an inlet. There could be no mistake. The +distant point was the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahía ó +Puerto de San Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in +their hearts they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the +San Pedro valley[29] at the foot of the Montara mountains. + +Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind +but would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To +settle the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine +the country as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to +report, while the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta +de las Almejas del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the +two names of the camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp +in San Pedro valley. + +The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass +some of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They +climbed the mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall +reported that they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense +estero or arm of the sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as +the eye could reach, stretching to the southeast; that they had seen +some beautiful plains thickly covered with trees, while the many columns +of smoke rising over them showed that they were well stocked with Indian +villages. This story confirmed them in the belief that they were at the +Port of San Francisco, and that the estero described was that spoken of +by Cabrera Bueno, the mouth of which they imagined they had seen from +the Montara mountains[30]. They were now satisfied that Ortega would be +unable to reach Point Reyes, and that three days was not sufficient time +to go around the head of such an estero. The exploring party returned +in the night of November 3d, discharging their fire-arms as they +approached. They reported that they found themselves obstructed by +immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily far back into the land[31], +but what caused their rejoicing was that they understood from the signs +of the Indians that at two days journey from where they were there was +a port in which a ship was anchored. On this announcement, some thought +that they were at the port of Monterey, and that the supply ship San +Jose or the San Carlos was waiting for them. Crespi says that if they +were not in Monterey, they were certainly in San Francisco. + +On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in +whose honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in +the Port of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que +Dios guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this +little valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father +San Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded +on the nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, +in better spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their +march at one o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up +the beach, they turned into the mountains on their right, and from the +summit beheld the immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into +the Cañada de San Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and +traveling two leagues camped in the cañada at the foot of a hill, very +green with low brush, and having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next +two days they traveled down the cañada, coasting the estero, which they +could not see for the low hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the +pleasant land with its groves of oak, redwood (palo colorado), and +madroño. They saw the tracks of many deer and also of bears. The Indians +met them with friendly offers of black tamales and atole, which were +gladly received by the half-starved Spaniards. They begged the strangers +to go to their rancherías, but the governor excused himself, saying +that he must go forward, and dismissed them with presents of beads and +trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end of the cañada, which suddenly +turned to the east, and saw that the estero[32] was finished in a +spacious valley. To the cañada they gave the name of San Francisco[33]. +Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep +arroyo, whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately +into the estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site +of Stanford University[34]. + +Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route, +Portolá now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four +days in which to explore the country and find the port containing the +supply-ship. + +Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the +neighboring rancherías, set out after noon on November 7th and returned +in the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port +or ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the +Indians had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could +not be in advance. They also reported that the country they had seen +towards the north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for +the reason that the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, +were hostile and would dispute the passage. They said that they had +encountered another immense estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait), +which also ran far inland and connected with the one on the southeast, +and that to double it would take many leagues of travel[35]. + +During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were +compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much +suffering from indigestion and fever. + +Portolá called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the +best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point +of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which +they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the +command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by +the route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of +Pines at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild +geese which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the +coast. The following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of +Pines and camped in the cañada of the Cármelo, where was plenty of wood +and good water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor +sent ten soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian +pioneers, who undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with +instructions to thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the +Port of Monterey was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. + +The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They +were tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and +they reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that +the mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was +no passage along the shore. + +Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a +station for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence +they make a landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all +winds * * * and is thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of +gentle disposition, peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like +that of Castile, and hemp, and cotton,"[36] etc. + +The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port, +protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the +Rio Cármelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but +lagunillas; "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile, +who raised flax and hemp and cotton?" Costansó says that in their entire +journey, they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people +more wild and savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is +not strange that Portolá failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada, +Vizcaino's Famoso Puerte de Monterey. + +The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply +was almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the +Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on +December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found +the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding +it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen +half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming +excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited +free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all +might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, +the junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the +provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the +mules for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better +to divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San +Diego. Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented +difficulties. The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the +governor announced his determination. They would return to San Diego +at once, he said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the +whole expedition would be lost. + +A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of +December 9th, delaying the march. + +On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before +leaving Cármelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the +shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig; +at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a +bottle and buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the +expedition, its commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the +channel of Santa Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage +of the Santa Lucia mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point +Reyes, etc. + +"The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros +intervened which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go +around, and other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of +provisions), made it necessary for us to return, believing that the +Port of Monterey might perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and +thinking that we might have passed it without observing it. We left the +estero of San Francisco on our return on the 11th of November. We passed +the Punta de Año Nuevo on the 19th of said month, and reached the second +time this Port and Ensenada de Pinos on the 27th of the same." + +It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for +the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it, +their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows +the latitude at various points as observed by Costansó. It requests the +commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them, +should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of +the expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible, +that the expedition might sight and obtain succor from them. + +The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half, +and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another +cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they +ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming. +They killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and +on the 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers +stole flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided +the remainder among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a +mudhole near San Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it +was a feast day[37]. On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here, +among the Channel Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were +over, and the health of the command improved daily. Instead of following +up the Santa Clara river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, +into the San Fernando valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river, +crossed the Santa Ana, January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24, +1770, with the command in good health and without the loss of a man, +"with the merit of having been compelled to eat the flesh of male and +female mules, and with not having found the Port of Monterey, which we +judged to have been filled up by the great sand dunes which were in the +place where we had expected to find it."[38] + +Portolá found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had +died, and Junípero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy. +No tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a +careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicatá +in case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be +exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of +March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure, +very much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera +was sent to Velicatá with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to +bring up the cattle and supplies that had been left there. + +After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a +sail appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to +prevent the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, +and Portolá prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of +Monterey. Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of +the search were related to him, that the place where they erected the +second cross was the long-lost Port of Monterey. + +On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junípero, +Costansó, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th, +Portolá set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven +soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego +was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers +Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as +guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with +supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle. + +Portolá followed the same route that he took on the retreat from +Monterey, and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de +Pinos, near the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place +for the camp, Portolá took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and +went to the cross to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found +around the cross a ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which +were decked with feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them, +while at the foot of the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As +Portolá, Fages, and Crespi walked along the beach and looked out over +the bay and noted its calm and placid waters, with its swimming seals +and spouting whales, they broke forth with one voice, "This is the Port +of Monterey which we have sought. It is exactly as reported by Sebastian +Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."[39] + +Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Cármelo, Portolá +ordered the expedition to Cármelo Bay by direct line, while he, with +Fages and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it +well covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a +ship. They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress +Point), and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they +awaited the arrival of the San Antonio. + +On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made +signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had +dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors +to be a most famous port. + +On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where, +in 1602, Vizcaino's Cármelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de +Portolá, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition, +Fray Junípero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the +San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with +the crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father +president chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the +musical deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns +of the San Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the +conclusion of the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portolá, governor +of the Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his +majesty Don Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of +San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the +first presidio and second mission in California. + +In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portolá now +delivered to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command +of the new establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San +Blas, and California knew him no more. + + + + + + +DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLÁ AFTER HE LEFT CALIFORNIA + +By E. J. Molera + + +Portolá and Costansó sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to +the viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costansó remained in the +capital and took part in several engineering works, among others, the +map of the Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted +by the writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portolá's further history, +has so far discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's +return to the capital was followed by promotion from Captain to +Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as +Governor of Puebla, February 23, 1777. + +In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio +covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portolá's +taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state: + +"Possession of Governor Portolá." + +"In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal +title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his +Majesty to Señor Don Gaspar de Portolá, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal +Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor, +and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said +title has been forwarded." + +"The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in +his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from +the king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its +contents and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel +Don Gaspar de Portolá be given possession of said office, and for that +purpose, said noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him +to this hail of sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having +certified to his identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the +office of Governor, doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the +poor with excessive taxes; to keep and cause to be kept, the rights, +privileges, royal decrees and ordinances, etc." + +"Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal +justice, by which the act of possession was completed." + +In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portolá as +Governor of Puebla. + +That in the year 1779, Portolá was still Governor of Puebla is proved by +two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular +official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the +death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith; +the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portolá, dated April 17th, 1779. + + + +Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving +an Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos, +Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. Document +Obtained from the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + + + +"My Dear Sir:" + +"By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal +packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don +Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor +of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th +inst. at San Blas." + +"In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made +by this officer and his pilot, Don José Cañizares, your Excellency will +see, in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained +gives knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities +that is has to invernate[40] vessels. The docility and gentle manners +of the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the utility +of the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing this +land." + +"The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms +everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water, +wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is +rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey." + +"He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the +merit of the pilot, Don José Cañizares, in discharging the commission +entrusted to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve +to that of the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency +that you remind His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful +that the Department of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made +has always shown the same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the +one just finished with such advantage to the service, because of the +information and knowledge he has shown in the discharge of his duty." + +"For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as +Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such +important work." + +"That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish." + +"Exm°. Sr." + +"Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands," + +"Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua." + +"Mexico, November 26th, 1775." + +"To His Excellency Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga." + + + + + +Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by +Sea to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of +California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco. + + +Father Junípero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages +the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and +notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico +to lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego +in the mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in +Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773. + +Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he +considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but +little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official +business, had not an outside incident given them force. + +Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg, +communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring +the coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the +newspapers of the Russian capital[41]. This news with the corroborating +proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts of April 11th and +September 23, 1773. + +The result of this information was to give a better organization to the +maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California. +It was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco; +that better means of communication be established between San Diego +and Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the +Russians had made settlements on the coast of California. + + + + + +THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS + +Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece) + +Under Command of Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel +de Ayala + +From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco + + +The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a +Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at +Seville, Spain[42]. + + +On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de +Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in +the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to +the west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don +Bruno de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don +Juan de la Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command +of the packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manríque, was +sick and unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited +until the morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which +carried his predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board +to follow the frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the +expedition, Don Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar +and provisions which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck +where they were liable to be damaged. + +At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the +wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela +Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in +sight of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the +southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds +and calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable +progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain +some water to replace that which had been consumed[43]. The pilot could +not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On April +2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day he +came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on +board the governor of California[44]. From the Concepcion Ayala obtained +six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious accident happened to +the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, he had a number of +loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they could not injure +anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the bullet entering +the commander's foot between the second and third toes, coming out under +the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed. + +On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about +two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about +twelve leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress +northward was very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch +to calk the launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great +damage was done. On the same day indications of land were noted and some +whales were seen, which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On +the following day they saw some seals, which, according to the sailors, +was the second sign of land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which, +they say, is proof positive of land being near. On the same day land was +sighted at 4 p. m.; the North Farallones of San Francisco were seen to +the north and Point Año Nuevo to the southeast. At 7 p. m., the +South Farallones were seen at a distance of about two leagues to the +northeast. The variation of the needle was observed and found to be 13° +E. + +Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Año +Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At +noon the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36° 58'. +At 3 p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could +not be seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at +5 p. m. they saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The +variation of the needle was observed and found to be 12° 58' E. They had +some difficulty in finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy +bottom. + +On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail +and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast. + +Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which +time he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails +and repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under +water at the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half +yards. + +He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco. + + +Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36°° 33', +longitude 16° 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San +Francisco, July 26, 1775. + +That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a +contrary direction. + +On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the +range of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction[45]. At +noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13° distant five miles; at 3 p. +m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Año Nuevo came +in sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant. +From July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of +contrary winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was +seen to the east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was +found to be Point Año Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view +bearing north 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was +considered to be Point Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the +San Carlos steered west-southwest and continued in that course until 8 +a. m. of the 4th, when the bearing was changed to the north-northeast. +At noon the sun's altitude was taken and the latitude was found to be +37° 11', and longitude 17° 51' W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th, +the southernmost Farallon of the Port of San Francisco was seen to the +northwest, distant about eight leagues. The land to the north was Point +Reyes, bearing 4° W., distant about fourteen leagues. At half past +eleven, considering the coast was near, the course was changed to the +south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of August 5th, when it was changed again +to the north-northeast 5° north to bring the ship at sunrise to the +point it was at sunset of the day before. At 5 a. m. four of the +Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north-northwest, distant +four leagues. Point Año Nuevo was southeast 1/4 east from twelve to +fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4° east, distant three +leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala lowered the +launch, and in it Pilot Cañizares was sent with ten men to search for an +anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. At 9 a. m. a +strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at eleven it was +observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which convinced the +commander that it was due to the tide, and this was confirmed by the +soundings; in entering the port, as on the first occasion, the tide was +going out, and on the second one the tide was coming in. The altitude +of the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the utmost care, and the +latitude was found to be 37° 42' and the longitude 17° 14' W. of San +Blas. At this time Point Año Nuevo was about fourteen leagues distant +to the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, distant four +leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four leagues. +The wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to the +north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and bottom +found at sixteen brazas[46] of mud and sand mixed, and distant from the +mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at fifteen brazas, +with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was continued and the +bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The current was so +great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a strong wind +from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed them to go +not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the current +must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The swiftness +of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and that night +was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this was +done with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it +necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging +might give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with +a 20-lb. lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either +in the channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was +realized that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike +bottom. They continued thus until they were one league inside the +mouth of the bay and a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind +suddenly stopped. Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards +the mouth, an anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast +to the big mast so that if it did not catch the bottom it would not +be lost. It was found that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made +ready to drop in case the big one should drag. When the wind stopped +and the current ceased, the vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas, +with sandy bottom[47]. + +At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset +the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not +come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the +entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable +harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he +attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were +such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried +him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor +he had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired +out, made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out, +with the same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw +the packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in +reaching her. + +At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which +was to the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had +sufficient water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of +shelter then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing +his anchor in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to +the east, although the wind came from the landward which was about two +leagues from the harbor[48]. He called this harbor "Carmeita," because +in it was a rock resembling a friar of that order. There was in its +vicinity an Indian village, the inhabitants of which came out from their +huts and cried out and made signs for the vessel to go near them. As +the sailors were taking soundings and came near the shore, the Indians +erected a pole, at the top of which was a large number of feathers. The +sailors having no orders to answer them, remained at a distance from the +shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, that the sailors were afraid of +them, endeavored to assure them by dropping their bows to the ground, +and after describing a circle in the air with the arrows stuck them in +the sand. The launch came on board again, and soon after, the Indians, +from a point of land near the vessel, talked to the sailors with loud +cries, and although their voices were heard distinctly, they could not +be understood for want of an interpreter. At 9 the launch was sent again +to another harbor to the north, which seemed to be better sheltered and +to have better anchorage[49]. It was so, and when the launch returned at +10, the pilot stated that he found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas, +and the bottom was sticky with mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards +the place examined, but a strong current prevented her reaching it. It +was then decided to anchor in fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they +stayed there all night, during which time the vessel moved on account of +the bad quality of the anchors. + +On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and +fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and +the bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided +to go to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary +to return to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling +to the men with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch +with the priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must +not molest the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for +which purpose the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and +ordered them to observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians +showed fight they could easily return to the launch, where four armed +men must always remain to protect the retreat. It is true that from the +day when intercourse was first had with the Indians, it was seen how +affable and hospitable they were, showing the greatest desire for the +Spaniards to go to their village, where, they said, they could eat and +sleep. They had already prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from +their corn, and tomales of the same. During the time the Spaniards were +with the Indians, they found that the latter repeated the Spanish words +with great facility, and by signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go +on board the packet boat, but the Indians, also by signs, signified that +until the Spaniards should visit their village, they could not go on +board. After a little while the Spaniards returned to the boat and the +Indians disappeared. + +On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the +bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report. + +On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near +Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places +were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, +which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter +even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of +the abundance of those birds that were on it. + +On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of +water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don José +de Cañizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a +few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, +Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find +the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send +to San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but +explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51]. + +On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where +they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to +ask for bread in Spanish. + +From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay +of San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don José de Cañizares was +instructed to make his report and the map of the bay. + +On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, +but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had +carried the vessel. + +From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the +rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place +on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day. + +In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox +in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till +October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on +November 6th of the same year. + + + + + +Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San +Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the +Examination of the Port of San Francisco + + +Your Excellency:--I have finished the orders under which I took command +of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November +6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco. + +Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, +together with the pilot, Don José Cañizares' report of his examination +and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, +notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of +San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from +Cape Horn. + +After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor +of Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo +and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July +27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived +on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting +by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that +pertains to this matter. + +It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony +that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh +water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is +healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in +Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, +and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many +advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians +around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle +in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several +times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so +that from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their +behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; +the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language. + +There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, +enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was +ordered of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my +predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was +possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken +by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer +of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don +Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I +remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the +reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was +convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d +by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel +Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am +satisfied that Don José Cañizares executed with his usual ability +everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency +(in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long +as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed +such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I +found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty. + +On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I +considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no +wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring +the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me +to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and +again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I +noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because +the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before +had warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, +I determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on +the 19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came +October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my +foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency. + +I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years. + +San Blas, November 9, 1775. + +Juan Manuel de Ayala. + +To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli. + + + + +Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco + +Situated in Latitude 37° 53' North, Longitude 17° 10' West of San Blas + +By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala + + +Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude +37° 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with +two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three +white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs +north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five +submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56], +ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called +Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest +one a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient +to accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom, +but because it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the +west-southwest. The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where +a copious creek empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This +harbor, with the one inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has +been found very good, with the prevailing winds from the south to the +northwest. + +From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are +seen, distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a +sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve +leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to +the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, +this is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs +east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the +third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a +low point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called +Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth +of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in +a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three +small rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter +any vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and +broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which +and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San +José, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this +famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or +leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos +Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless +the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the +shores of San José Point. + +To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67] +is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides +the water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, +especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island +where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of +the island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a +pistol-shot of the shore. + +To the east-northeast of Point San José there is a sheltered harbor, +landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where +water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no +current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I +consider, it one of the best anchorages. + +Once Points San José and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to +leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any +place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid +is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its +branches three miles. + +This report was made to me by Pilot Don José Cañizares, to whom I +entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick. + + + + + +Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map + + +Report of the Pilot Don José de Cañizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala + + +Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the +Indies at Seville. + + + +Dear Captain:--During the four times that I made reconnaissance of this +Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast +what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast +of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a +direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the +points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is +about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are +three small islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage +of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded +with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a +distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to +be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with +submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient +water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its +being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and +anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current, +which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69]. + +North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where +there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south +ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes +to another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight +leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided +into two channels,--one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to +the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large +harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's +distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the +northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about +one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a +large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the +channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having +three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a +low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division +made by the hills[74]. The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs +directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the +hills through a cañon that runs in the same direction. + +All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it +is not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, +excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the +southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. +Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, +and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not +difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account +of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its +shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in +the cañon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and +a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a ranchería +of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy +anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me +for that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was +useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes +(amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting +them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time, +noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and +retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with +good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many +others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some +scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they +caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing +with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than +the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in +this northern part. + +Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a +harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and +sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland +ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called +it Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of +that saint[76]. + +To the southeast of this port[77] the cañon continues, until it joins +the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three leagues +in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay[78] with a depth +of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers[79] empty and +take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the same as +in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is the +largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has +many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in +very low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their +mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. +This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second +occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on +the bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than +the Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult +to obtain wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is +covered with trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, +and impossible of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the +north of Angel Island. To the southeast of said island following the +estero is as follows: + +To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is +another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth +of the channel in two[80], through which the sea enters to a distance of +about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some parts, one, +two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its width +ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not over +two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a point, +a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry[81]. In every part there are +seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, bunches of tule, +and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, since they are +in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for three leagues +inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the weather that +strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against the strong +current from the north. + +The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has +in its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of +thick redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, +navigable only by launches[82], and on the coast two harbors[83] where +vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian village, +rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better places +for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance. + +All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, +and sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the +reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as +proof of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter +of Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775. + +José de Cañizares. + + + +Index of Places + + Acapulco + Alcatraz Island + Almejas, El Rincon de las + Almejas, Punta del + Angel Island + Angel Point + Año Nuevo, Punta de + Arroyo de San Francisco + Arroyo Seco + Baker's Beach + Barranca + Ballenas Bay + Bonita, Point + Brazas + California, Baja + California, Gulf of + Cañada + Cañada do los Osos + Cañada do San Andres + Cármelo, Pt + Cármelo, bay + Cármelo, Rio del + Carquines, strait + Cerralbo, Bay of + Codo + Columbia river + Concepcion, Laguna de la + Concepcion, Point + Diegueños + Drake's Bay + El Buchon + El Oso Flaco + Ensenada + Farallones de San Francisco + Farallones, Gulf of + Florida + Fort Point + Golden Gate + Golden Gate, strait + Guadalupe, lake + Islais creek + Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de + La Paz, Bay of + La Paz, port of + Lime Point + Lobos creek + Loreto, presidio of + Los Angeles, City of + Los Angeles, river + Napa slough + Mare Island + Mendocino, Cape + Mescaltitan + Mission bay + Montara mountains + Monterey, Bay of + Monterey, Port of + Monterey, presidio and mission of + Muertos, Punta de los + Navidad, Puerto de + Oakland Flats + Pájaro, Rio del + Pedernales, Point + Philippine Islands + Pilar Point + Pinos, Punta de + Porciúncula, Indulgence + Puerto Dulce + Punta del Angel de la Guarda + Presidio anchorage + Ranchería + Reyes, Punta de los + Reyes, Rio de los + Richardson's bay + Red Rock + Ross, Fort + San Blas + San Buenaventura, mission of + San Carlos, Point + San Clemente, island + San Corpóforo, cañon + San Diego + San Diego, bay + San Diego, Founding of mission + San Diego, presidio of + San Elizario, Rio de + San Fernando, valley + San Francisco, Bahia ó Puerto de + San Francisco, Bay of + San Francisco, Port of + San Francisco, creek + San Gabriel, valley + San Joaquin river + San Jose, Point + San Juan Capistrano, mission of + San Lorenzo, Rio de + San Luis Obispo + San Luis Rey, mission of + San Miguel (island) + San Nicolas, Isla de + San Pablo bay + San Pedro bay + San Pedro Point + San Pedro valley + Santa Ana, Rio de + Santa Barbara Channel + Santa Barbara Isla de + Santa Barbara presidio of + Santa Catalina, island + Santa Clara, river + Santa Inez, river + Santa Lucia, Sierra de + Santa Maria, mission of + Santa Rosa, river + Santa Susana, Sierra de + Sacramento, river + Sal, Point + Salines, river + Santiago, Point + Seal Rocks + Suisun bay + Tamalpais, mountain + The Brothers (rocks) + The Sisters (rocks) + Tomales bay + Velicatá + Yerba Buena cove + + + + +Index of Persons + + + Aguilar, Martin + Aguirre, Juan B. + Alvarado, Juan Bautista + Amador, Pedro + Anza, Juan Bautista de + Arriaga, Julian de + Ayala, Juan Manuel + Bancroft, H. H. + Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la + Bolaños, Francisco + Bucareli, Antonio Maria + Bueno, Cabrera + Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues + Cañizares, José + Carrillo, José Raimundo + Cermeñon, Sebastian + Coronado, Francisco Vasquez + Cortes, Hernando + Corvan, Toribio Gomez de + Costansó, Miguel + Cota, Pablo de + Crespi, Juan + Davidson, George + De Gali, Francisco + De Soto, Hernando + Drake, Francis + Estorace, Jorge + Fages, Pedro + Ferrelo, Bartolomé + Figueroa, Rodriga de + Fletcher, Francis + Galvez, José de + Gomez, Fray Francisco + Griffin, George Butler + Heceta, Bruno de + Jiminez (Fortun) + Laut, Agnes C. + Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de + Lummis, Chas. F. + Maldonado, Gabriel + Manrique, Miguel + Mendoza, Antonio de + Monterey, Conde de + Morgana, Juan de + Oliveros, José Ignacio + Ortega, José Francisco + Palou, Fray Francisco + Perez, Juan + Parron, Fray Fernando + Pino, Miguel del + Portolá, Gaspar de + Prat, Pedro + Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de + Salcedo, Felipe + Serra, Fray Junípero + Soberanes, José Maria + Vancouver, Captain George + Velasco, Luis de + Vila, Vicente + Vizcaino, Fray Juan + Vizcaino, Sebastian + Yorba, José Antonio + Zúñiga y Asevedo, Gaspar de + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[Footnote 1: Sierra de Santa Lucia.] + +[Footnote 2: Audiencia, the highest judicial body.] + +[Footnote 3: The system of encomienda conferred feudal rights upon the +discoverers. The Indians became vassals of Spanish lords.] + +[Footnote 4: Vizcaino says he set out on the discovery of the coast of the South +Sea with two ships, a lancha, and a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small +vessel having no deck and but one mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas +calls the vessel a fragata. A barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long +open boat.] + +[Footnote 5: The second voyage of Vizcaino is of particular interest to +Californians for the reason that the names given by him to the various +geographical features of the coast still remain. The particulars of the +first voyage are taken largely from the publications of the Southern +California Historical Society of documents in the Sutro collection.] + +[Footnote 6: Sutro Col. Pub. Southern California Hist. Socy.] + +[Footnote 7: Prof. George Davidson identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River +in 42° 25'.] + +[Footnote 8: About Cape San Quintin, the latitude of their northernmost mission.] + +[Footnote 9: Instruccion qua ha de observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro +Pages, 5 enero de 1769. Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish +Archives of California.] + +[Footnote 10: So-called from the cuera, a leathern jacket worn by them as a +defensive armor.] + +[Footnote 11: Out West. March-July, 1902.] + +[Footnote 12: Pancakes.] + +[Footnote 13: Dead Men's Point. The name has disappeared from the modern maps, +but is found on all of the old ones. It is the foot of H street where +the cars for the Coronado ferry turn on to the wharf.] + +[Footnote 14: I am well aware that this claim will be disputed by one whose +study of original documents and power of analysis make him perhaps the +greatest authority on early California History; but I am nevertheless +prepared to maintain my position.] + +[Footnote 15: Carga, 275 lbs.] + +[Footnote 16: Hence the presidial soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so +distinguished from soldiers of the regular army.] + +[Footnote 17: Diario Historico de los viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte +de la California. Ms. Original in Sutro Library.] + +[Footnote 18: The league is the Spanish league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles.] + +[Footnote 19: They also gave it the name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th, they +had just observed.] + +[Footnote 20: Sometimes called the Grand Pardon of Assisi--the great indulgence +of the Franciscans. Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church +of Our Lady of the Angeles of Porciúncula, it was, by apostolic indult, +expanded to accompany the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is +enough for him to erect an altar and that altar will be to him St. +Mary of the Angels, and he will there find the Porciúncula of the +revelations. Whoso confesses and receives the sacrament in the church of +Porciúncula is granted plenary remission of his sins in this world and +the next. This indulgence is only for August 2nd--that is, from the +afternoon of August 1st until sunset of August 2nd.] + +[Footnote 21: It is to this incident that the city of Los Angeles owes its name. +The full baptismal name of the city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los +Angeles--Our Lady the Queen of the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by +royal order, the second pueblo established in California.] + +[Footnote 22: Ranchería is the name given to an Indian village or town.] + +[Footnote 23: The Valley of the Bears.] + +[Footnote 24: The diarists applied the word cañada to either a cañon or an open +valley.] + +[Footnote 25: The word ensenada, much used by the Spanish explorers, means a +bight or open roadstead, not an enclosed and protected bay.] + +[Footnote 26: "Transportar en Xamus al Modo que cominan las mujeres en +Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California, ii. 181.] + +[Footnote 27: The names given on this portion of the route have all disappeared, +but are here given as a suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad.] + +[Footnote 28: The Fleas.] + +[Footnote 29: It must be borne in mind that what they called the Bay or Port of +San Francisco was that stretch of water reaching from Point Reyes to +Point San Pedro and later known as the Gulf of the Farallones.] + +[Footnote 30: Professor George Davidson says that what was seen by Portolá from +the Montara mountains was the break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep +narrow valley which runs straight from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay, +fourteen miles.] + +[Footnote 31: The Golden Gate and Bay of San Francisco.] + +[Footnote 32: The Bay of San Francisco continued to be called the "Estero," until +some time after Colonel Anza established the presidio and mission of San +Francisco in 1776.] + +[Footnote 33: The present name, Cañada de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov. +30, 1714.] + +[Footnote 34: On November, 1774, Rivera came up the peninsula on an exploring +expedition and on the spot where he had camped with the first expedition +in 1769, he planted a cross to mark the place for a mission. In March, +1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, coming to select sites for the +Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, notes this cross on the bank +of the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San Francisquito creek), about one +hundred paces above the great redwood tree, and says the plan for a +mission there was abandoned because the creek was dry in summer. I note +this explanation because an excellent authority has located Portolá's +camp on Redwood creek.] + +[Footnote 35: I give to Ortega the credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the +Straits of Carquinez. The testimony seems sufficient to me.] + +[Footnote 36: Vizcaino to the King, May 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern +California, Vol. ii, Part 1.] + +[Footnote 37: On the day of the Holy Innocents it was not possible to say mass. +We are sorry for it, because it is the only feast day in all the journey +up to the present that we have been without mass. We are stuck in a mud +hole and are unable to move from the place where we are all wet through, +and it is not possible to make a journada to a plain that is dry for +this is bubbling up water--Crespi, Diario.] + +[Footnote 38: Crespi: Diario.] + +[Footnote 39: Palou: Noticias de la Nueva California.] + +[Footnote 40: Invernate--to winter.] + +[Footnote 41: Manuel Orozco y Berra, Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an +Mexico, Anales del Ministerio de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo +VI, p. 269. Documents in the Archives of the Indies, Seville.] + +[Footnote 42: This is a summary of the document. A full translation would be too +tedious for a work of this kind.] + +[Footnote 43: On the Tres Marias Islands.] + +[Footnote 44: Don Pedro Fages. Commandante of California, who had been recalled.] + +[Footnote 45: Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July +24th. That was to make the sailing fit the Bancroft theories.] + +[Footnote 46: Braza--Fathom: Six feet.] + +[Footnote 47: Ayala anchored inside Port Point--the Presidio anchorage.] + +[Footnote 48: Richardson's Bay.] + +[Footnote 49: Angel Island.] + +[Footnote 50: Alcatraz--Pelican] + +[Footnote 51: The Southern portion of the bay.] + +[Footnote 52: Pt. San Pedro.] + +[Footnote 53: That is: Pt. Almejas or Pt. San Pedro.] + +[Footnote 54: Barranca: The dictionary definition is a ravine or gulch, but it +also means a high bluff or cliff and in that sense is used by these +explorers.] + +[Footnote 55: i. e.: from Pt. Almejas.] + +[Footnote 56: Cliff Rouse Rocks.] + +[Footnote 57: Punta del Angel de la Guarda--Point Lobos.] + +[Footnote 58: Seal Rocks.] + +[Footnote 59: Bakers Beach.] + +[Footnote 60: Lobos Creek.] + +[Footnote 61: i. e.: Inside of Point San Jose--Fort Point.] + +[Footnote 62: Tamalpais] + +[Footnote 63: Point Bonita. The present name was given it in 1776.] + +[Footnote 64: Golden Gate Strait.] + +[Footnote 65: i. e.: The outer harbor; outside of the Golden Gate.] + +[Footnote 66: Lime Point.] + +[Footnote 67: Angel Island.] + +[Footnote 68: The Presidio anchorage.] + +[Footnote 69: This is the body of water between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt. +Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. The high farallon is Red Rock.] + +[Footnote 70: The rocks are The Sisters and The Brothers.] + +[Footnote 71: San Pablo Bay.] + +[Footnote 72: Napa Slough. The marsh was evidently under water, and island number +one, with Mare Island, made one long island.] + +[Footnote 73: Codo--1 1/2 feet.] + +[Footnote 74: Mare Island. The division of the hills or cañon is Carquines +Strait.] + +[Footnote 75: Carquines Straits.] + +[Footnote 76: The Assumption of the Virgin--August 15th. It is Southampton bay.] + +[Footnote 77: That is, from Puerto de la Asumpta.] + +[Footnote 78: Suisun Bay.] + +[Footnote 79: The Sacramento and San Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto +Dulce--Freshwater Port.] + +[Footnote 80: Yerba Buena or Goat Island. Cañizaries marked it on the map (c) for +isla do Alcatraces, but that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of +the entry in the Log under date of August 12, with the map will show.] + +[Footnote 81: Oakland and Berkeley tide flats.] + +[Footnote 82: Islais creek.] + +[Footnote 83: Yerba Buena cove and Mission bay.] + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ *** + +***** This file should be named 4978-8.txt or 4978-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/9/7/4978/ + +Produced by David A. 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