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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/4978-8.txt b/4978-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..07d47f8 --- /dev/null +++ b/4978-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2974 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The March of Portolá + and, The Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents + Translated and Annotated + +Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +Posting Date: March 20, 2009 [EBook #4978] +Release Date: January, 2004 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan + + + + + + + +THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + + +By Zoeth S. Eldredge + + + + + +Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents Translated and Annotated + + +By E. J. Molera + + + +Published by the Reception Committee of The California Promotion +Committee + + + +This Book is published with the approval and endorsement of the +Executive Committee of the Portolá Festival. + + + +The March of Portolá + +and + +The Log of the San Carlos + + + + San Francisco + + + "Serene, indifferent of fate, + Thou sittest at the Western Gate; + + Upon thy heights so lately won, + Still slant the banners of the sun; + + Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, + O warder of two continents, + + And scornful of the peace that flies, + Thy angry winds and sullen skies, + + Thou drawest all things, small or great, + To thee beside the Western Gate." + + + +Table of Contents + + + Introduction + The March of Portolá and Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + Data regarding Portolá after he left California + Letter of the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga + Causes that led to the Expedition of the San Carlos + Log of the San Carlos + Report of the Commander of the San Carlos + Description of the Bay of San Francisco + Report of the Pilot of the San Carlos + + + +Illustrations + + The March to Monterey (Frontispiece) + Carrying the Sick + Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + Departure of the San Carlos from La Paz + Facsimile of signature of Governor Portolá + First Survey and Map of the Bay of San Francisco + + + + +Introduction + +In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives +of heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record +of Spanish exploration in America. To those of us who have come into +possession of the fair land opened up by them, the story of their +travels and adventures have the most profound interest. The account +of the expedition of Portolá has never been properly presented. Many +writers have touched on it, and H. H. Bancroft, in his History of +California, gives a brief digest of Crespi's diary. Most writers on +California history have drawn on Palou's Vida del V. P. F. Junipero +Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and without looking further, +have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We have endeavored in +this sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the conditions which +preceded and led up to the occupation of California. + +The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific +was early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but +small respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World +between Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated +expeditions into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two +ships to look in Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea, +one of which bore the significant name of California. The voyage of +Francis Drake, 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay +he proclaimed the sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New +Albion. Two hundred years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver +explored the coast of California down to thirty degrees of north +latitude (Ensenada de Todos Santos), which, he says, "is the +southernmost limit of New Albion, as discovered by Sir Francis Drake, +or New California, as the Spaniards frequently call it." Even after +the occupation and settlement by the Spaniards, so feeble were their +establishments that, as Vancouver reports to the Admiralty, it +would take but a small force to wrest from Spain this most valuable +possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain presaged the time +when her hold upon America would be loosened, the standard of individual +heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of Portolá and of Anza +rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The California explorer did +not, it is true, have to fight his way through hordes of fierce natives. +The California Indians, as a rule, received the white adventurers +gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as they had to offer, +but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were but a poor lot. +In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea swarming with fish, +a soil capable of growing every character of foodstuff, these miserable +natives lived in a chronic state of starvation. + +As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portolá upholds +the best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon +the character of the leader. Pánfilo de Narváez landed on the coast of +Florida in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men +and forty horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the +previous June, and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida, +only four lived to reach civilization--the rest perished. That is +but one example of incompetent leadership. When Portolá organized his +expedition for the march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his +soldiers were ill from scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick +list numbered nineteen men, including the governor and Rivera, his chief +officer. Sixteen men had to be carried, and to three, in extremis, the +viaticum was administered; but he brought them all through, and returned +to San Diego without the loss of a man. + +There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and +the other by Alférez Costansó. There is, besides, a diary of Junípero +Serra of the march from Velicatá to San Diego Bay, a translation of +which is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902. +It is of small value to the student of history. There is a diary by +Portolá, quoted by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by +Bancroft. These we have not seen. There are letters from Francisco +Palou, Juan Crespi and Miguel Costansó, printed in Out West for January +1902. The diary of Father Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la +Nueva California. Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San +Francisco, 1874. The diary of Miguel Costansó is in the Sutro library. +It has never been printed. It is prefaced by an historical narrative, a +poor translation of which was published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, +and a better one by Chas. F. Lummis in Out West, June-July, 1901. In +Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California, Vol. II, +Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of documents of the Sutro collection +are printed, with translations by George Butler Griffin. These relate to +the explorations of the California coast by ships from the Philippines, +the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some letters of Junípero Serra, and +diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to the northern coast in 1774. + +The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original +documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful +survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by +the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions +and language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted +are Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva +California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C. +Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties +of Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The +Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on +the Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of +the Geographical Society of the Pacific. + +In view of the forthcoming Portolá Festival, The California Promotion +Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its +members to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement +of California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life +and character of Portolá, the committee has been enabled, through the +efforts of one of its members, to have careful search made among the +archives of Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of +Mexico, and of Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet, +concerning Portolá, we have received other documents of the utmost +importance to the history of San Francisco: a chronicle of the events +following the discovery of the Bay. + +By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the +northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the +year 1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the +commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos, +under Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. +To Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San +Francisco, while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north. +Bodega discovered the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his +name as it is usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft +(History of California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his +short and incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate +that neither map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is +with pleasure we are permitted to present to the public these important +documents, now printed for the first time, and only regret that the +shortness of time allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later +some minor corrections. + +We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don José +Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San +Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan +Manuel de Ayala. + +Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He +entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made +Alférez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alférez de Navio, June 15, 1769; +Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776; +and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782. + +When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala +was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz +in August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by +Viceroy Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner +Sonora. The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the +commander of the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad. +Ayala was ordered to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to +San Blas with the unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days +later. + +In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New +Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and +until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In +August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the +San Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to +Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal +order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of +his services to California. He died December 30, 1797. + + Zoeth S. Eldredge, + E. J. Molera, + Charles H. Crocker, + + San Francisco, August, 1909.--Committee. + + + + + +THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + +By Zoeth S. Eldredge + + +The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement +of California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to +save the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of +a monarch solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political +exigencies of the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil +governors sink into insignificance and become mere executives of the +priestly will, while the heroic efforts of Junípero Serra to convert the +natives, his courage in the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his +unwearied devotion, make him the impelling factor in the colonization of +California. + +Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into +California strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of +Fray Francisco Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junípero, +that all historians turn for the account of the occupation. Fray +Palou details the glorious life of the leader with whom he toiled; he +eulogizes the worthy priest, the ardent missionary, as he passed up and +down the length of the land, founding missions, planting the vine, the +olive, and the fruit tree in a land whose inhabitants had often +suffered from hunger; giving aid and comfort to the sick and weary +and consolation to the dying. Indeed, the pictures of the padres are +fascinating. The infant establishments planted by the church grew rich +and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the administration of the +priests and so generous their hospitality, that life in California in +the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost dolce far +niente existence. + +Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junípero drawn by Palou, the +careful investigator will find that the impelling factor in the +occupation of California was stern military necessity, not missionary +zeal. From the time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the +Pacific up to forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery, +but more than two hundred years had passed and she had done nothing +towards making good this right by settlement. The country was open to +colonization by any nation strong enough to maintain and protect its +colonies. + +Before relating the story of Portolá's march, let us consider for a +moment the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other +European nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it +necessary to occupy the country. + +When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent +his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his +grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable +route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from +Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones, +thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward, +following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made +a landfall on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape +Mendocino. A sail of two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of +California and New Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco. +This route was charted by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for +nearly three centuries was the one followed by the galleons of Spain +sailing from Manila to Acapulco. The voyage across the Pacific was a +long one and ships in distress were obliged to put about and make for +Japan. A harbor on the coast of California in which ships could find +shelter and repair damages was greatly desired. A survey of the unknown +coasts of the South Sea, as it was called, was ordered, and it was also +suggested that the explorations be extended beyond the forty-second +degree of north latitude, it being held that the coast was a part of +the same continent as that of China, or only separated therefrom by +the narrow strait of Anian, which was believed to open in latitude +forty-two. + +Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California +was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by +his chief pilot, Bartolomé Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as +far north as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the +entrance to the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible +storms in San Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died. +Ferrelo took command and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in +honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. + +On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden +Hinde, took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's +Bay. He took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, +and named it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain +Fletcher writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have +some affinity with our own country." It was in this place and at this +time that the first English service was held in America, by Master +Francis Fletcher, chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in +Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, commemorates the event. + +Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship, +supplied himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the +Southeast Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the +25th sailed across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good +Hope. + +In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was +directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather +would permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land +and the harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all +that he accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he +accomplished anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude +37° 30' (Pillar Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that +the mountains[1] were without snow, and that there were many indications +of rivers, bays, and havens along the coast. + +In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermeñon, a Portuguese sailor in the service +of Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of +Gali. In an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San +Agustin. It is supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was +beached in Drake's Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a +boat, called a viroco, and in this the ship's company of more than +seventy persons continued the homeward voyage. The little vessel reached +Puerto de Navidad in safety, and here the commander and part of the +company left it in charge of the pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of +ten men, who brought it into Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; +a most remarkable voyage of nearly twenty-five hundred miles by +shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded into an open boat. With the +loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the California coast by laden +ships from the Philippines came to an end. + +Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis +de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to +the exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of +the land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at +the expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and +trade, together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually +given to the pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for +the expedition were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader +and his partners in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the +courts. Before a decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge +ordered the other partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to +begin the voyage to the Californias within three months. Under this +order, Vizcaino applied to Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission +to make the journey. This was the condition of affairs when, on October +5, 1596, Velasco was relieved and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zúñiga y +Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took command. At Velasco's request, Zúñiga +made a careful examination of all matters pertaining to the expedition +to the Californias, and the result was not favorable to Vizcaino. The +new viceroy did not think that an enterprise which might involve results +of such vast importance should be entrusted to the leadership of a +person of such obscure position and limited capital. He also doubted +if Vizcaino had the resolution and capacity necessary for so great an +undertaking, and it appeared to him that if disorders should arise among +his men through lack of discipline, or if the natives of the country to +which he was going should repel him, the repute and royal authority of +the king would be in danger. On the other hand, there was the decision +of the court, the concession of the viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino +had already been at expense in the matter. Zúñiga communicated his +doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his perplexity, submitted the +question to a theologian and a jurist, selected as the viceroy writes, +from the number of those whose opinions were entitled to the greatest +consideration. Their decision was that the concession of the viceroy had +the force of an agreement and contract; that what was at first a +favor had become a right, and that, as the captain had manifested no +incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact could not be +varied. The audiencia[2], before whom Zúñiga also laid the matter, was +of like opinion. In view, therefore, of the length to which the affair +had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul the contract but to do all +in his power to insure the success of the expedition. That Vizcaino's +soldiers might respect and esteem him, the viceroy clothed him with +authority and showed him the greatest honor. He required Vizcaino to +furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories of the ships and +lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails and tackle, the +number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, ammunition, and all +other property, and he instructed the royal officers at Acapulco that +the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was fully provided +with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of the people. +The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zúñiga's report, ordered him +to cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for the +expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino +had sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six +hundred tons; the San José, a smaller ship, under command of Captain +Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in +March, 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast +of Colima, where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this +point the watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that +Vizcaino complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the +conduct of his soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape +Corrientes, thence northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan. +From Mazatlan he bore west-northwest across the Gulf of California and +landed in a large bay which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as +the Bay of Cerralbo. From here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named +because of the peaceful character of the Indians, who received him +hospitably with presents of fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is +supposed, the place where Jimenez, the discoverer of California, lost +his life in 1533, and where Córtez planted his ill-fated colony two +years later. In entering the bay, the flagship ran on a shoal, and +they were obliged to cut away her masts and lighten her of her cargo of +provisions, a great part of which was wet and lost. Here Vizcaino landed +and built a stockade fort, and leaving the dismantled flagship and the +married men of his company under command of his lieutenant, Figueroa, he +sailed on October 3rd, with the San José and the lancha and eighty men +to explore the gulf. He encountered severe storms which separated his +vessels, and not having proper discipline among his men, had trouble +with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen men were lost by +the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back to La Paz, where +his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their comrades, +demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions was +running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the +lancha, he sent them back, and with the San José and forty of the +more adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the +headwaters of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong +north winds, and only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then +yielding to the demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles +of Mazatlan. + +The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, +but he made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land +double the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its +seas abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds, +in quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea; +while in the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the +northwest, were people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and +silver ornaments, cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the +country (turkeys), and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told +him--not only in one place but in many. He desired permission to +make another voyage, and as the late expedition had exhausted his own +resources, asked that he be granted thirty-five thousand dollars from +the royal treasury and outfitting for his ships. These advances he +agreed to repay from the first gain received by him during the voyage. +He also asked, on behalf of those who accompanied him, that the +countries brought by him into subjection to the crown be given to them +encomienda for five lives[3]; that they be made gentlemen and granted +all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that other gentlemen enjoy, +not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in Spain. For these +and for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with five ships, +equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, arms and +ammunition, provisions, etc.--all things necessary for the voyage. +He would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones and +valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish taken, +and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make +discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take +possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements, +build forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one +hundred leagues. + +Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as +he had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council +decided that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zúñiga +favored Don Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council +ordered that Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all +necessary funds; it granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, +and that the discoverers should have all the privileges of gentlemen +throughout the Indies. It also granted other minor privileges and boons +asked for. Vizcaino was made captain-general of the expedition, and +sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, with orders to explore the coasts of +the Californias from Cape San Lucas to Cape Mendocino, or as far north +as latitude forty-two. His ships were the San Diego, flagship, the Santo +Tomas, under Toríbio Gomez de Corvan, the Tres Reyes, a small fragata +or tender, under Alférez Martin Aguilar, and a barcolongo for exploring +rivers and bays[4]. The chief pilot of the expedition was Francisco +Bolaños who had been one of the pilots with Cermeñon on the lost San +Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites looked after the spiritual needs +of the adventurers. The story of this second voyage of Vizcaino is well +known. On the 10th of November, they were in the Bay of San Diego, which +Vizcaino named for San Diego de Alcalá, whose day, November 14th, they +spent in the bay, ignoring the name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo +sixty years before. Later in the month he entered and named San Pedro +bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, +it was. He also named the islands still known as Santa Catalina and San +Clemente. He next sailed through and named the Canal de Santa Barbara, +which saint's day, December 4th, was observed while in the channel, and +also named Isla de Santa Barbara and Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta +de la Concepcion, which he named[5], Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a +thick fog, which lifting on December 14th, revealed to the voyagers +the lofty coast range usually sighted by the ships coming from the +Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a river flowing from high +hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To the mountains he gave +the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of the Saint whose day +(December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the stream he named Rio +del Cármelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. Rounding a high wooded +point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he dropped anchor in Monterey +bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found the much desired harbor of +refuge, and he named it for his patron, the Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino +made the most of his discovery, and in a letter to the king, written in +Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602[6], he gives a most glowing description +of the bay, which is, at best, but an open roadstead. The Indians, as +usual, told him of large cities in the interior, which they invited him +to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. His provisions were almost gone, +his men were sick with scurvy, of which many had died, and putting the +most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he sent her to Acapulco for +aid, and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the flagship and fragata, for +the north. A storm soon separated the vessels and they did not see each +other again until they met in the harbor of Acapulco. Vizcaino was told +by the pilot, Bolaños, that Cermeñon had left in Drake's Bay a large +quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he entered the bay on +January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or cargo. He did not +land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did not appear, +he became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of her. On the +13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. This +was followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in +latitude forty-two--the limit of his instructions--with Cape Blanco in +sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, "towards +Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six of his +men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, +where he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him, +forty-two had died. + +In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied +and provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He +directed that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition. +His orders were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan, +whence he returned in 1613, and died three years later. + +For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the +pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued +to make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail +down the coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge +was established and no attempt was made to colonize the country. + +At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his +possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection. +Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had +crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska, +and their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into +more southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was +ready to turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The +Family Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had +aroused the ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved +to demand an explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack +her at home and abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was +time for humbling the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet +caused Pitt's resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power +with vigor and arrogance unabated. + +On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree +expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had +established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de +Portolá, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed +governor of the Californias and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five +dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to +dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the +Franciscans. + +The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the +northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take +effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger +of invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a +person of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out +so great an undertaking, Don José de Galvez, visitador-general of the +kingdom and member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services +and volunteered to go to Lower California and effect the organization +and equipment of the expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and +Galvez set out from the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on +the coast of New Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken +by a courier from the viceroy bringing orders just received from the +court directing that a maritime expedition should be at once dispatched +to Monterey and that port fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas +on the 16th of May, 1768, the señor visitador laid before them the +situation and the wishes of the king. He stated that on the exterior or +occidental coasts of the Californias, Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas +on the south to the Rio de los Reyes[7] in 43 degrees, though the only +portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up to 30° 30'.[8] The civilized +or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon--people of reason) +did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, including the +families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those of the +miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to establish +themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, they might +fortify themselves there before the government could receive notice +of it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New Spain +there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built in +San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small +tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications +between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted +all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign +invasion. All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present +the commandant of the department and the army officers and pilots who +chanced to be there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the +San Carlos and San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships, +while Galvez proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of +supplies and provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid +under contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions +to be established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule +herd; for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition +by one by land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long +sea-voyage should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don +Gaspar de Portolá, volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named +commander-in-chief. Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the +presidio of Loreto, was appointed second in command. The troops were +composed of forty cavalrymen from the presidio of Loreto in Lower +California, under Rivera, and twenty-five infantrymen of the compania +franca of Catalonia, under Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial +troops were joined thirty Christian Indians from the missions, armed +with bows and arrows. These were intended for the land expedition. The +mission of Santa Maria, the northernmost mission on the peninsula, was +the rendezvous of the land forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded +with provisions for the land expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay +of San Luis Gonzaga, the nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria, +whither also went by land the troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the +herd of every sort. Finding insufficient pasturage for the cattle at +Santa Maria, they advanced to Velicatá, some thirty miles distant, and +here was assembled the land expedition. In addition to the officers +named, Don Miguel Costansó, ensign of royal engineers, was ordered to +join the expedition as cosmographer and diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was +appointed physician. To minister to the soldiers and take charge of the +missions to be established in the new land, the following missionary +priests, all of the college of San Fernando in Mexico, were named to +accompany the expedition. Fray Junípero Serra, appointed president of +the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, Fray Fernando Parron, +Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez. + +On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was +loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junípero Serra sang mass +aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and +the standards. The visitador named the Señor San José patron of the +expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those +about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans +of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alférez +Miguel Costansó, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The +ship was commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy; +the mate was Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two +boys, four cooks, and two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's +company--sixty-two in all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and +sailed on the 10th. Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas--chief of +the military expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of +the soldiers on land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey[9]. +On the 15th of February, Father Junípero performed like offices for +the San Antonio, and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan +Perez, "of the navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino +and Gomez, some carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the +sailors, made some ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The +rendezvous was San Diego bay, where all were to meet. + +The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division, +under Rivera, started from Velicatá March 24th, and the second, under +command of the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre +Crespi, Pilotin (Mate) Jose Cañizares. Twenty-five soldados de +cuera[10], three muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians--forty-two men. +With the governor marched Junípero Serra, fifteen soldados de cuera, +under Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers and +Indians--forty-four in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being Easter +Sunday, Junípero established the Mission of San Fernando with Fray +Miguel de la Campa as Minister. For the succor and relief of the forces, +both sea and land, Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he named in +honor of the protector of the expedition, the San Jose, and loading +her with supplies and provisions, sent her with orders to meet the +expedition at Monterey. She was lost at sea. + +There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles +through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junípero's diary lies +before me[11]; it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, +the Indians they met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, +etc.; no course, no distances traveled, or other like information +necessary to an understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he +is not to be compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight +of the sea at the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was +by the sea until they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San +Diego, their Indian allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the +Diegueños, whom they began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally +lot. They thronged the camp and became a perfect nuisance with their +begging and stealing. They begged from Junípero his robe and from the +governor his cuera, waistcoat, breeches, and all he had on. One of them +succeeding in inducing Junípero to take off his spectacles to show +them to him and as soon as he got them in his hands made off with them, +causing the priest a thousand difficulties to recover them. On the 27th +of June Sergeant Ortega, with his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and +announced to the anxious camp the proximity of the governor. Rivera sent +ten of his soldiers with fresh horses back with Ortega, and Portolá, +in advance of his command, reached the camp June 29th, and the entire +division arrived, June 30th, in good order and condition, forty-six days +from Velicatá. + +Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other +divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the +placid waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more +formidable than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when +on the 11th of April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and +dropped her anchor not far from the point where now the ferry boat for +Coronado leaves the slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at +the rendezvous. No attempt was made to land, for they were alone and +dread scurvy had them in its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's +company were sick. On the 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La +Paz, with her company in even worse condition. All were sick, some had +died, and only four sailors remained on their feet, aided in working the +ship by such of the soldiers as were able to help. She had been driven +far out of her course; had found herself short of water, and had to +put into the island of Cedros to supply herself, and it was with the +greatest difficulty she reached the bay of San Diego. The first thing +to be done was to find good water and to minister to the sick. For this +purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro Fages, Don Miguel Costansó, +and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five men-soldiers, sailors, etc., +all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding up the shore, found, by +direction of some Indians, a river of good mountain water at a distance +of three leagues to the northeast. Moving their ships as near as they +could, they prepared on the beach a camp, which they surrounded with a +parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted two cannon. Within they made +two large hospital tents from the sails and awnings of the ships, and +set up the tents of the officers and priests. Then they transferred the +sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, and the list of those +able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The difficulties of their +situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines and food had been +consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the surgeon, +himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand anxieties +some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as the +others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun burned +them by day--alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, two or +three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which had +been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight +soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of +the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the +care of the sick. + +There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of +the fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none +were discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At +length, on the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on +the beach that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and +armed as they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera, +fifty days from Velicatá, without the loss of a man or having a sick +one; but they were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour +left and were issuing two tortillas[12] per day to each man. Great +was the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's +force. It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This +was done, and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known +as "Old Town," where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. +The surgeon, Pedro Prat, devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths +continued, until of the ninety and more who had sailed from La Paz, +two-thirds were laid under the sand of Punta de los Muertos[13]. It was +now thought best to send one of the packets to San Blas to inform the +viceroy and the visitador of the state of the expedition, and it was +feared that if this were longer delayed, the ship would be unable to +put to sea for lack of mariners. The San Antonio was selected for this +purpose, and was prepared for sea, but as she was about to sail, the +camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by the arrival of Portolá and +the second division, sound in body, and with 163 mules laden with +provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of the condition of +affairs, and desirous that the señor visitador's orders concerning the +sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain Vila of the San +Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that he might +pursue the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's officers, +boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was not a +sailor among the men offered by Portolá, he declined to go to sea under +such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on +board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight +men only for a crew. + +The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to +Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season +should expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra +closed by snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the +sierras covered with snow on their arrival in April. + +On the 14th of July, Portolá began his march to Monterey, distant one +hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega, +with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan +volunteers--all that could travel, Ensign Costansó, the priests, Crespi +and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the missions +of Lower California, and two servants--sixty-four in all. Both Fages and +Costansó were sick with scurvy, but joined the command notwithstanding. +The personnel of this expedition contains some of the best known names +in California. Portolá, the first governor; Rivera, comandante of +California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on the Colorado +in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773, governor, +1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the Golden Gate +and of Carquines Strait[14]; lieutenant and brevet captain, comandante +of the presidio of San Diego, of Santa Barbara, and of Monterey; +founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara and of the missions of San Juan +Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the rank and file were men whose +names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who gave his name to Amador +county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of Governor Alvarado; José +Raimundo Carrillo, later alférez, lieutenant, and captain, comandante +of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and of San Diego, and +founder of the great Carrillo family; José Antonio Yorba, sergeant of +Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that name and grantee of +the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota, José Ignacio Oliveras, +José Maria Soberanes, and others. + +At San Diego, Portolá left the sick under the care of the faithful +surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the +San Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junípero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and +Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California +Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them +a sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads[15] of +provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portolá expedition started, +Junípero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San Diego +de Alcalá, the first mission established in Alta California. The deaths +continued, and before Portolá's return in January, eight soldiers, four +sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about twenty +persons at the camp. + +We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship, +San Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have +seen, was lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San +Antonio, the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, +took with him one hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he +concluded, to last him for six months. + +On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with +six or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected +the camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was +frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante, +with Fages, Costansó, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia +volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with +spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers; +these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of +pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers. +The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the +spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada). + +The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive +and defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) +and the adarga (shield)[16]. The first, being made in the form of a coat +without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses of dressed +deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very short range. +The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on the left +arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his horse +against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used a +species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with +a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to +cover the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding +through the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms +were the lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback, +the broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costansó, who was +an officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor +of the presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they +were men capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and +active; "and it is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen +in the world, and among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the +service of the king."[17] + +It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train +through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones. +It was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next, +and the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be +traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be +had. The distance made was from two to four leagues[18], and the command +rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue caused by +the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the wandering off +of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costansó says that one +of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their caballada +(horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a country +they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most +incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover +a coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any +of these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many +leagues, precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without +any human effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense +toil to gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled, +remain of no service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the +Spaniards made their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more +fertile and pleasing as they progressed northward. + +The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became +the Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the +pretty valley where later was established the mission of San Luis +Rey. They called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards +transferred to a mission forty miles north of this place. The command +rested here, July 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San +Onofre), whose base they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it +seemed to threaten their advance, but by keeping close to the shore, +they held their way, and on the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of +water running through a mesa at the foot of a sierra, whence looking +across the sea, they could descry Santa Catalina Island. This was San +Juan Capistrano, and here they rested on the 25th. On the 28th they +reached the Santa Ana river, near the present town of that name; a +violent shock of earthquake which they experienced caused them to name +the river Jesus de los Temblores[19]. July 30th and 31st they were in +the San Gabriel valley, which they called San Miguel, and on August 1st +they rested near the site of the present city of Los Angeles. The +stop this day, in addition to the needed rest and the necessity for +exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers and people of the +expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciúncula.[20] The priests +said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon the +soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with which +the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles +river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra +Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula[21]. Passing up the river, they +went through the cañon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they +called Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos--Valley of St. Catherine +of the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa +Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo cañon, they came to the Santa +Clara river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th. +Portolá named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor +of the saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days, +by easy jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th +at the first rancheria[22] of the Channel Indians. It being the vespers +of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Señora, Portolá named the village +La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed houses +of clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. These +Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and very +skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles. +Portolá thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de +Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission +of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them +kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made +boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with +cords and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each. +The next four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th, +at a large laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was +the site of the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere +were large populous rancherías of the Indians, and everywhere they were +received in the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than +they could eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of +a large lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was +a large ranchería, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon. +Portolá gave to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherías +de Mescaltitan--The Contiguous Rancherías of Mescaltitan. The name of +Mescaltitan is still attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly +drained and contains some of the finest walnut groves in California. On +the 28th, they turned Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place +called by them Paraje de los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five +miles beyond, preserves the name. On the 30th they crossed a large +river, which they named the Santa Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose +day it was. This is now the Santa Inez, so called from the mission of +that name, established on its bank in 1804. Passing northward along the +beach, a sharp spur of the sierra jutting out at Point Sal turned them +inland through the little pass followed by the Southern Pacific Coast +Line, and they came, on September 10th, to a large lake in the northwest +corner of Santa Barbara county, to which was given the name of Laguna +Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. Three leagues beyond, they camped at +a lake named by Costansó, Laguna Redonda, but which the soldiers called +El Oso Flaco--The Thin Bear--and it is still known by that name. Here +Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and ten of the soldiers complained of +sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on the 4th reached the mouth of +the San Luis cañon. Here they were hospitably received by the chief of +a large ranchería, whose appearance caused the soldiers to apply to him +the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor hanging from his neck. +Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the soldiers applied +to the chief, his ranchería, and to the cañon leading up to San Luis +Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many cases the +good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint has +been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount +Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying +qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow cañon +of San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and +city of San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the +Sierra de Santa Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley, +whence the march to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the +west and followed the Cañada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which +they called El Estero de San Serafin. The Cañada de los Osos[23], still +so called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears, +one of which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls. +Another wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their +lives. + +The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came +to a point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars, +blocks the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three +thousand feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portolá +sent out the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the +mountains. During the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way +into the sierra through San Carpóforo cañon, and on the 16th the command +moved up the steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on +either side. It is impossible to follow their route through this rugged +mountain range with any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and +painful. On the 20th, they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the +north, and from its summit the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea +of mountains, "presenting," writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor +travelers worn out with the fatigue of the journey." The cold was +beginning to be severe, and many of the men were suffering from scurvy +and unfit for service, which increased the hardship for all; yet they +did not falter but pressed bravely on, and on the 26th emerged from +the mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they named the Cañada del Palo +Caido[24] (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and camped on the Salinas river, +which they christened Rio de San Elizario. From now on the march is an +easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea. + +On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the +Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see +it. They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of +Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably +that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the +voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno. +The governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part +of the coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers, +explored the coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the +very port they were seeking, while Portolá, with Costansó, Crespi, and +five soldiers, climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada, +the northern point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore +northwest at a distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south +a hill ran out into the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be +wooded with pines. They recognized the one on the north as the Punta de +Año Nuevo and that on the south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two +lay the great ensenada[25], with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid +down in the coast pilot (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the +famous port of Monterey? + +They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit +they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was +continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between +it and another point to the south (Point Cármelo) was a small ensenada, +where a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into +an estero; that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they +were obliged to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra +which compelled them to leave the coast on the 16th of September. + +Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of +officers to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday, +October 4th, the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid +the matter before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of +provisions, the seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the +excessive burden of labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care +of the animals, and continual explorations, and to the lateness of the +season. In view of these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of +Monterey could not be found where it was said to be, each person present +was called upon to express freely his opinion. + +Costansó spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37°; they had only +reached 36° 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37° 30', so as +either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for +going up to 37° or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish +themselves somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go +forward and put his trust in God. If they found the desired port of +Monterey and therein the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If +Monterey did not appear, they would find a place for a settlement; but +if it should be the will of God that all were to perish, they would have +discharged their duty to God and man in laboring until death in their +endeavor to accomplish the enterprise on which they had been sent. To +this decision all agreed, and signed their names to the compact. + +Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and +locate camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of +October, the march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of +their limbs. Each night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they +were put into hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried +in the mode of travel used by the women of Andalusia[26]. The march +was slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last +extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to +three, who were thought to be dying. + +On this day they crossed the Rio del Pájaro, which they named because +of a great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which +measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of +the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were +preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the +approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on +hand, gave the river the name La Señora Santa Ana, but again the saint +was ignored, and the river is known as the Pájaro (Bird). On the 17th +they crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the +present city of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Año +Nuevo, and camped at the entrance of the cañon of Waddell creek. They +recognized Point Año Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno, +and Crespi estimated that it was one league distant from the camp. With +good water and fuel, the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both +Portolá and Rivera were now added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables +had given out and the rations were reduced to five tortillas of bran +and flour per day. Crespi named the camp San Luis Beltran, while the +soldiers called it La Cañada de Salud. On the 23d, they again moved +forward, passing Punta de Año Nuevo and, traveling two leagues, camped +probably on Gazos creek, where was a large Indian ranchería, whose +inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which was about opposite +Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan Nepomuceno[27]. The +next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San +Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an +epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw +their end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea +seemed to relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers +began to be less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de +los Cursos, and Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable +to travel on the 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th, +they pressed forward. The next stop was Purisima creek, two short +leagues distant, but the way was rough, and the pioneers had to make +roads across three arroyos where the descents were steep and difficult +for the transportation of the invalids. On the bank of the stream was an +Indian ranchería, apparently deserted. The Spaniards took possession +of the huts, but soon came running forth with cries of "las pulgas! las +pulgas![28]" They preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called +the camp Ranchería de las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the +28th they camped on Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon +Bay. They named the camp El Llano de los Ansares--The Plain of the Wild +Geese--and Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the +command was ill; the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food +very short. They contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it +rained heavily and Portolá, who was very ill, decided to rest on the +29th. On Monday, October 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and +Pillar Point were noted but no names given. Several deep arroyos were +crossed, some of which required the building of bridges to get the +animals over. They proceeded up the shore until a barrier of rock +confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in a rincon (corner) +formed by the sierra and sheltered from the north wind they camped +while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over the +Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they +named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and +other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta +del Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the +Montara fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers +had prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and +at ten o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the +exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous +sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them, +bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing +in the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea, +rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left, +west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally +along the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what +appeared to be the mouth of an inlet. There could be no mistake. The +distant point was the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahía ó +Puerto de San Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in +their hearts they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the +San Pedro valley[29] at the foot of the Montara mountains. + +Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind +but would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To +settle the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine +the country as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to +report, while the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta +de las Almejas del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the +two names of the camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp +in San Pedro valley. + +The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass +some of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They +climbed the mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall +reported that they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense +estero or arm of the sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as +the eye could reach, stretching to the southeast; that they had seen +some beautiful plains thickly covered with trees, while the many columns +of smoke rising over them showed that they were well stocked with Indian +villages. This story confirmed them in the belief that they were at the +Port of San Francisco, and that the estero described was that spoken of +by Cabrera Bueno, the mouth of which they imagined they had seen from +the Montara mountains[30]. They were now satisfied that Ortega would be +unable to reach Point Reyes, and that three days was not sufficient time +to go around the head of such an estero. The exploring party returned +in the night of November 3d, discharging their fire-arms as they +approached. They reported that they found themselves obstructed by +immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily far back into the land[31], +but what caused their rejoicing was that they understood from the signs +of the Indians that at two days journey from where they were there was +a port in which a ship was anchored. On this announcement, some thought +that they were at the port of Monterey, and that the supply ship San +Jose or the San Carlos was waiting for them. Crespi says that if they +were not in Monterey, they were certainly in San Francisco. + +On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in +whose honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in +the Port of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que +Dios guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this +little valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father +San Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded +on the nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, +in better spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their +march at one o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up +the beach, they turned into the mountains on their right, and from the +summit beheld the immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into +the Cañada de San Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and +traveling two leagues camped in the cañada at the foot of a hill, very +green with low brush, and having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next +two days they traveled down the cañada, coasting the estero, which they +could not see for the low hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the +pleasant land with its groves of oak, redwood (palo colorado), and +madroño. They saw the tracks of many deer and also of bears. The Indians +met them with friendly offers of black tamales and atole, which were +gladly received by the half-starved Spaniards. They begged the strangers +to go to their rancherías, but the governor excused himself, saying +that he must go forward, and dismissed them with presents of beads and +trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end of the cañada, which suddenly +turned to the east, and saw that the estero[32] was finished in a +spacious valley. To the cañada they gave the name of San Francisco[33]. +Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep +arroyo, whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately +into the estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site +of Stanford University[34]. + +Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route, +Portolá now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four +days in which to explore the country and find the port containing the +supply-ship. + +Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the +neighboring rancherías, set out after noon on November 7th and returned +in the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port +or ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the +Indians had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could +not be in advance. They also reported that the country they had seen +towards the north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for +the reason that the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, +were hostile and would dispute the passage. They said that they had +encountered another immense estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait), +which also ran far inland and connected with the one on the southeast, +and that to double it would take many leagues of travel[35]. + +During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were +compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much +suffering from indigestion and fever. + +Portolá called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the +best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point +of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which +they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the +command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by +the route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of +Pines at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild +geese which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the +coast. The following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of +Pines and camped in the cañada of the Cármelo, where was plenty of wood +and good water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor +sent ten soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian +pioneers, who undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with +instructions to thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the +Port of Monterey was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. + +The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They +were tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and +they reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that +the mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was +no passage along the shore. + +Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a +station for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence +they make a landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all +winds * * * and is thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of +gentle disposition, peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like +that of Castile, and hemp, and cotton,"[36] etc. + +The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port, +protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the +Rio Cármelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but +lagunillas; "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile, +who raised flax and hemp and cotton?" Costansó says that in their entire +journey, they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people +more wild and savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is +not strange that Portolá failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada, +Vizcaino's Famoso Puerte de Monterey. + +The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply +was almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the +Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on +December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found +the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding +it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen +half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming +excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited +free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all +might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, +the junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the +provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the +mules for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better +to divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San +Diego. Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented +difficulties. The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the +governor announced his determination. They would return to San Diego +at once, he said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the +whole expedition would be lost. + +A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of +December 9th, delaying the march. + +On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before +leaving Cármelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the +shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig; +at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a +bottle and buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the +expedition, its commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the +channel of Santa Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage +of the Santa Lucia mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point +Reyes, etc. + +"The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros +intervened which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go +around, and other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of +provisions), made it necessary for us to return, believing that the +Port of Monterey might perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and +thinking that we might have passed it without observing it. We left the +estero of San Francisco on our return on the 11th of November. We passed +the Punta de Año Nuevo on the 19th of said month, and reached the second +time this Port and Ensenada de Pinos on the 27th of the same." + +It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for +the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it, +their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows +the latitude at various points as observed by Costansó. It requests the +commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them, +should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of +the expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible, +that the expedition might sight and obtain succor from them. + +The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half, +and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another +cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they +ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming. +They killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and +on the 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers +stole flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided +the remainder among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a +mudhole near San Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it +was a feast day[37]. On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here, +among the Channel Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were +over, and the health of the command improved daily. Instead of following +up the Santa Clara river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, +into the San Fernando valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river, +crossed the Santa Ana, January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24, +1770, with the command in good health and without the loss of a man, +"with the merit of having been compelled to eat the flesh of male and +female mules, and with not having found the Port of Monterey, which we +judged to have been filled up by the great sand dunes which were in the +place where we had expected to find it."[38] + +Portolá found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had +died, and Junípero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy. +No tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a +careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicatá +in case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be +exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of +March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure, +very much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera +was sent to Velicatá with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to +bring up the cattle and supplies that had been left there. + +After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a +sail appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to +prevent the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, +and Portolá prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of +Monterey. Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of +the search were related to him, that the place where they erected the +second cross was the long-lost Port of Monterey. + +On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junípero, +Costansó, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th, +Portolá set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven +soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego +was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers +Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as +guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with +supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle. + +Portolá followed the same route that he took on the retreat from +Monterey, and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de +Pinos, near the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place +for the camp, Portolá took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and +went to the cross to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found +around the cross a ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which +were decked with feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them, +while at the foot of the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As +Portolá, Fages, and Crespi walked along the beach and looked out over +the bay and noted its calm and placid waters, with its swimming seals +and spouting whales, they broke forth with one voice, "This is the Port +of Monterey which we have sought. It is exactly as reported by Sebastian +Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."[39] + +Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Cármelo, Portolá +ordered the expedition to Cármelo Bay by direct line, while he, with +Fages and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it +well covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a +ship. They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress +Point), and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they +awaited the arrival of the San Antonio. + +On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made +signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had +dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors +to be a most famous port. + +On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where, +in 1602, Vizcaino's Cármelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de +Portolá, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition, +Fray Junípero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the +San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with +the crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father +president chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the +musical deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns +of the San Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the +conclusion of the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portolá, governor +of the Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his +majesty Don Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of +San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the +first presidio and second mission in California. + +In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portolá now +delivered to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command +of the new establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San +Blas, and California knew him no more. + + + + + + +DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLÁ AFTER HE LEFT CALIFORNIA + +By E. J. Molera + + +Portolá and Costansó sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to +the viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costansó remained in the +capital and took part in several engineering works, among others, the +map of the Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted +by the writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portolá's further history, +has so far discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's +return to the capital was followed by promotion from Captain to +Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as +Governor of Puebla, February 23, 1777. + +In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio +covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portolá's +taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state: + +"Possession of Governor Portolá." + +"In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal +title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his +Majesty to Señor Don Gaspar de Portolá, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal +Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor, +and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said +title has been forwarded." + +"The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in +his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from +the king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its +contents and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel +Don Gaspar de Portolá be given possession of said office, and for that +purpose, said noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him +to this hail of sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having +certified to his identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the +office of Governor, doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the +poor with excessive taxes; to keep and cause to be kept, the rights, +privileges, royal decrees and ordinances, etc." + +"Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal +justice, by which the act of possession was completed." + +In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portolá as +Governor of Puebla. + +That in the year 1779, Portolá was still Governor of Puebla is proved by +two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular +official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the +death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith; +the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portolá, dated April 17th, 1779. + + + +Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving +an Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos, +Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. Document +Obtained from the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + + + +"My Dear Sir:" + +"By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal +packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don +Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor +of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th +inst. at San Blas." + +"In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made +by this officer and his pilot, Don José Cañizares, your Excellency will +see, in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained +gives knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities +that is has to invernate[40] vessels. The docility and gentle manners +of the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the utility +of the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing this +land." + +"The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms +everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water, +wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is +rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey." + +"He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the +merit of the pilot, Don José Cañizares, in discharging the commission +entrusted to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve +to that of the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency +that you remind His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful +that the Department of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made +has always shown the same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the +one just finished with such advantage to the service, because of the +information and knowledge he has shown in the discharge of his duty." + +"For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as +Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such +important work." + +"That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish." + +"Exm°. Sr." + +"Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands," + +"Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua." + +"Mexico, November 26th, 1775." + +"To His Excellency Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga." + + + + + +Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by +Sea to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of +California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco. + + +Father Junípero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages +the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and +notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico +to lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego +in the mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in +Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773. + +Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he +considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but +little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official +business, had not an outside incident given them force. + +Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg, +communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring +the coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the +newspapers of the Russian capital[41]. This news with the corroborating +proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts of April 11th and +September 23, 1773. + +The result of this information was to give a better organization to the +maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California. +It was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco; +that better means of communication be established between San Diego +and Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the +Russians had made settlements on the coast of California. + + + + + +THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS + +Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece) + +Under Command of Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel +de Ayala + +From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco + + +The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a +Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at +Seville, Spain[42]. + + +On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de +Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in +the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to +the west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don +Bruno de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don +Juan de la Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command +of the packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manríque, was +sick and unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited +until the morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which +carried his predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board +to follow the frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the +expedition, Don Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar +and provisions which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck +where they were liable to be damaged. + +At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the +wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela +Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in +sight of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the +southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds +and calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable +progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain +some water to replace that which had been consumed[43]. The pilot could +not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On April +2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day he +came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on +board the governor of California[44]. From the Concepcion Ayala obtained +six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious accident happened to +the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, he had a number of +loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they could not injure +anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the bullet entering +the commander's foot between the second and third toes, coming out under +the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed. + +On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about +two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about +twelve leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress +northward was very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch +to calk the launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great +damage was done. On the same day indications of land were noted and some +whales were seen, which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On +the following day they saw some seals, which, according to the sailors, +was the second sign of land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which, +they say, is proof positive of land being near. On the same day land was +sighted at 4 p. m.; the North Farallones of San Francisco were seen to +the north and Point Año Nuevo to the southeast. At 7 p. m., the +South Farallones were seen at a distance of about two leagues to the +northeast. The variation of the needle was observed and found to be 13° +E. + +Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Año +Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At +noon the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36° 58'. +At 3 p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could +not be seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at +5 p. m. they saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The +variation of the needle was observed and found to be 12° 58' E. They had +some difficulty in finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy +bottom. + +On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail +and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast. + +Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which +time he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails +and repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under +water at the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half +yards. + +He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco. + + +Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36°° 33', +longitude 16° 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San +Francisco, July 26, 1775. + +That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a +contrary direction. + +On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the +range of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction[45]. At +noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13° distant five miles; at 3 p. +m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Año Nuevo came +in sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant. +From July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of +contrary winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was +seen to the east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was +found to be Point Año Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view +bearing north 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was +considered to be Point Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the +San Carlos steered west-southwest and continued in that course until 8 +a. m. of the 4th, when the bearing was changed to the north-northeast. +At noon the sun's altitude was taken and the latitude was found to be +37° 11', and longitude 17° 51' W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th, +the southernmost Farallon of the Port of San Francisco was seen to the +northwest, distant about eight leagues. The land to the north was Point +Reyes, bearing 4° W., distant about fourteen leagues. At half past +eleven, considering the coast was near, the course was changed to the +south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of August 5th, when it was changed again +to the north-northeast 5° north to bring the ship at sunrise to the +point it was at sunset of the day before. At 5 a. m. four of the +Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north-northwest, distant +four leagues. Point Año Nuevo was southeast 1/4 east from twelve to +fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4° east, distant three +leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala lowered the +launch, and in it Pilot Cañizares was sent with ten men to search for an +anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. At 9 a. m. a +strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at eleven it was +observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which convinced the +commander that it was due to the tide, and this was confirmed by the +soundings; in entering the port, as on the first occasion, the tide was +going out, and on the second one the tide was coming in. The altitude +of the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the utmost care, and the +latitude was found to be 37° 42' and the longitude 17° 14' W. of San +Blas. At this time Point Año Nuevo was about fourteen leagues distant +to the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, distant four +leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four leagues. +The wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to the +north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and bottom +found at sixteen brazas[46] of mud and sand mixed, and distant from the +mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at fifteen brazas, +with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was continued and the +bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The current was so +great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a strong wind +from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed them to go +not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the current +must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The swiftness +of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and that night +was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this was +done with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it +necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging +might give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with +a 20-lb. lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either +in the channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was +realized that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike +bottom. They continued thus until they were one league inside the +mouth of the bay and a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind +suddenly stopped. Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards +the mouth, an anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast +to the big mast so that if it did not catch the bottom it would not +be lost. It was found that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made +ready to drop in case the big one should drag. When the wind stopped +and the current ceased, the vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas, +with sandy bottom[47]. + +At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset +the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not +come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the +entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable +harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he +attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were +such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried +him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor +he had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired +out, made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out, +with the same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw +the packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in +reaching her. + +At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which +was to the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had +sufficient water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of +shelter then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing +his anchor in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to +the east, although the wind came from the landward which was about two +leagues from the harbor[48]. He called this harbor "Carmeita," because +in it was a rock resembling a friar of that order. There was in its +vicinity an Indian village, the inhabitants of which came out from their +huts and cried out and made signs for the vessel to go near them. As +the sailors were taking soundings and came near the shore, the Indians +erected a pole, at the top of which was a large number of feathers. The +sailors having no orders to answer them, remained at a distance from the +shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, that the sailors were afraid of +them, endeavored to assure them by dropping their bows to the ground, +and after describing a circle in the air with the arrows stuck them in +the sand. The launch came on board again, and soon after, the Indians, +from a point of land near the vessel, talked to the sailors with loud +cries, and although their voices were heard distinctly, they could not +be understood for want of an interpreter. At 9 the launch was sent again +to another harbor to the north, which seemed to be better sheltered and +to have better anchorage[49]. It was so, and when the launch returned at +10, the pilot stated that he found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas, +and the bottom was sticky with mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards +the place examined, but a strong current prevented her reaching it. It +was then decided to anchor in fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they +stayed there all night, during which time the vessel moved on account of +the bad quality of the anchors. + +On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and +fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and +the bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided +to go to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary +to return to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling +to the men with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch +with the priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must +not molest the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for +which purpose the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and +ordered them to observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians +showed fight they could easily return to the launch, where four armed +men must always remain to protect the retreat. It is true that from the +day when intercourse was first had with the Indians, it was seen how +affable and hospitable they were, showing the greatest desire for the +Spaniards to go to their village, where, they said, they could eat and +sleep. They had already prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from +their corn, and tomales of the same. During the time the Spaniards were +with the Indians, they found that the latter repeated the Spanish words +with great facility, and by signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go +on board the packet boat, but the Indians, also by signs, signified that +until the Spaniards should visit their village, they could not go on +board. After a little while the Spaniards returned to the boat and the +Indians disappeared. + +On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the +bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report. + +On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near +Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places +were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, +which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter +even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of +the abundance of those birds that were on it. + +On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of +water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don José +de Cañizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a +few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, +Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find +the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send +to San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but +explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51]. + +On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where +they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to +ask for bread in Spanish. + +From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay +of San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don José de Cañizares was +instructed to make his report and the map of the bay. + +On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, +but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had +carried the vessel. + +From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the +rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place +on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day. + +In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox +in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till +October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on +November 6th of the same year. + + + + + +Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San +Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the +Examination of the Port of San Francisco + + +Your Excellency:--I have finished the orders under which I took command +of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November +6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco. + +Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, +together with the pilot, Don José Cañizares' report of his examination +and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, +notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of +San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from +Cape Horn. + +After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor +of Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo +and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July +27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived +on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting +by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that +pertains to this matter. + +It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony +that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh +water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is +healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in +Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, +and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many +advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians +around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle +in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several +times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so +that from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their +behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; +the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language. + +There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, +enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was +ordered of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my +predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was +possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken +by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer +of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don +Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I +remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the +reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was +convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d +by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel +Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am +satisfied that Don José Cañizares executed with his usual ability +everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency +(in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long +as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed +such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I +found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty. + +On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I +considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no +wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring +the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me +to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and +again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I +noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because +the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before +had warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, +I determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on +the 19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came +October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my +foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency. + +I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years. + +San Blas, November 9, 1775. + +Juan Manuel de Ayala. + +To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli. + + + + +Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco + +Situated in Latitude 37° 53' North, Longitude 17° 10' West of San Blas + +By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala + + +Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude +37° 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with +two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three +white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs +north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five +submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56], +ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called +Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest +one a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient +to accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom, +but because it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the +west-southwest. The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where +a copious creek empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This +harbor, with the one inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has +been found very good, with the prevailing winds from the south to the +northwest. + +From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are +seen, distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a +sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve +leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to +the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, +this is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs +east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the +third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a +low point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called +Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth +of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in +a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three +small rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter +any vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and +broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which +and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San +José, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this +famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or +leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos +Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless +the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the +shores of San José Point. + +To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67] +is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides +the water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, +especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island +where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of +the island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a +pistol-shot of the shore. + +To the east-northeast of Point San José there is a sheltered harbor, +landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where +water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no +current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I +consider, it one of the best anchorages. + +Once Points San José and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to +leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any +place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid +is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its +branches three miles. + +This report was made to me by Pilot Don José Cañizares, to whom I +entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick. + + + + + +Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map + + +Report of the Pilot Don José de Cañizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala + + +Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the +Indies at Seville. + + + +Dear Captain:--During the four times that I made reconnaissance of this +Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast +what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast +of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a +direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the +points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is +about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are +three small islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage +of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded +with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a +distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to +be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with +submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient +water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its +being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and +anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current, +which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69]. + +North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where +there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south +ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes +to another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight +leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided +into two channels,--one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to +the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large +harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's +distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the +northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about +one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a +large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the +channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having +three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a +low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division +made by the hills[74]. The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs +directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the +hills through a cañon that runs in the same direction. + +All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it +is not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, +excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the +southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. +Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, +and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not +difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account +of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its +shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in +the cañon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and +a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a ranchería +of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy +anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me +for that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was +useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes +(amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting +them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time, +noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and +retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with +good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many +others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some +scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they +caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing +with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than +the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in +this northern part. + +Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a +harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and +sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland +ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called +it Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of +that saint[76]. + +To the southeast of this port[77] the cañon continues, until it joins +the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three leagues +in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay[78] with a depth +of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers[79] empty and +take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the same as +in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is the +largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has +many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in +very low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their +mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. +This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second +occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on +the bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than +the Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult +to obtain wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is +covered with trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, +and impossible of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the +north of Angel Island. To the southeast of said island following the +estero is as follows: + +To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is +another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth +of the channel in two[80], through which the sea enters to a distance of +about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some parts, one, +two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its width +ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not over +two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a point, +a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry[81]. In every part there are +seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, bunches of tule, +and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, since they are +in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for three leagues +inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the weather that +strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against the strong +current from the north. + +The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has +in its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of +thick redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, +navigable only by launches[82], and on the coast two harbors[83] where +vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian village, +rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better places +for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance. + +All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, +and sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the +reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as +proof of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter +of Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775. + +José de Cañizares. + + + +Index of Places + + Acapulco + Alcatraz Island + Almejas, El Rincon de las + Almejas, Punta del + Angel Island + Angel Point + Año Nuevo, Punta de + Arroyo de San Francisco + Arroyo Seco + Baker's Beach + Barranca + Ballenas Bay + Bonita, Point + Brazas + California, Baja + California, Gulf of + Cañada + Cañada do los Osos + Cañada do San Andres + Cármelo, Pt + Cármelo, bay + Cármelo, Rio del + Carquines, strait + Cerralbo, Bay of + Codo + Columbia river + Concepcion, Laguna de la + Concepcion, Point + Diegueños + Drake's Bay + El Buchon + El Oso Flaco + Ensenada + Farallones de San Francisco + Farallones, Gulf of + Florida + Fort Point + Golden Gate + Golden Gate, strait + Guadalupe, lake + Islais creek + Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de + La Paz, Bay of + La Paz, port of + Lime Point + Lobos creek + Loreto, presidio of + Los Angeles, City of + Los Angeles, river + Napa slough + Mare Island + Mendocino, Cape + Mescaltitan + Mission bay + Montara mountains + Monterey, Bay of + Monterey, Port of + Monterey, presidio and mission of + Muertos, Punta de los + Navidad, Puerto de + Oakland Flats + Pájaro, Rio del + Pedernales, Point + Philippine Islands + Pilar Point + Pinos, Punta de + Porciúncula, Indulgence + Puerto Dulce + Punta del Angel de la Guarda + Presidio anchorage + Ranchería + Reyes, Punta de los + Reyes, Rio de los + Richardson's bay + Red Rock + Ross, Fort + San Blas + San Buenaventura, mission of + San Carlos, Point + San Clemente, island + San Corpóforo, cañon + San Diego + San Diego, bay + San Diego, Founding of mission + San Diego, presidio of + San Elizario, Rio de + San Fernando, valley + San Francisco, Bahia ó Puerto de + San Francisco, Bay of + San Francisco, Port of + San Francisco, creek + San Gabriel, valley + San Joaquin river + San Jose, Point + San Juan Capistrano, mission of + San Lorenzo, Rio de + San Luis Obispo + San Luis Rey, mission of + San Miguel (island) + San Nicolas, Isla de + San Pablo bay + San Pedro bay + San Pedro Point + San Pedro valley + Santa Ana, Rio de + Santa Barbara Channel + Santa Barbara Isla de + Santa Barbara presidio of + Santa Catalina, island + Santa Clara, river + Santa Inez, river + Santa Lucia, Sierra de + Santa Maria, mission of + Santa Rosa, river + Santa Susana, Sierra de + Sacramento, river + Sal, Point + Salines, river + Santiago, Point + Seal Rocks + Suisun bay + Tamalpais, mountain + The Brothers (rocks) + The Sisters (rocks) + Tomales bay + Velicatá + Yerba Buena cove + + + + +Index of Persons + + + Aguilar, Martin + Aguirre, Juan B. + Alvarado, Juan Bautista + Amador, Pedro + Anza, Juan Bautista de + Arriaga, Julian de + Ayala, Juan Manuel + Bancroft, H. H. + Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la + Bolaños, Francisco + Bucareli, Antonio Maria + Bueno, Cabrera + Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues + Cañizares, José + Carrillo, José Raimundo + Cermeñon, Sebastian + Coronado, Francisco Vasquez + Cortes, Hernando + Corvan, Toribio Gomez de + Costansó, Miguel + Cota, Pablo de + Crespi, Juan + Davidson, George + De Gali, Francisco + De Soto, Hernando + Drake, Francis + Estorace, Jorge + Fages, Pedro + Ferrelo, Bartolomé + Figueroa, Rodriga de + Fletcher, Francis + Galvez, José de + Gomez, Fray Francisco + Griffin, George Butler + Heceta, Bruno de + Jiminez (Fortun) + Laut, Agnes C. + Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de + Lummis, Chas. F. + Maldonado, Gabriel + Manrique, Miguel + Mendoza, Antonio de + Monterey, Conde de + Morgana, Juan de + Oliveros, José Ignacio + Ortega, José Francisco + Palou, Fray Francisco + Perez, Juan + Parron, Fray Fernando + Pino, Miguel del + Portolá, Gaspar de + Prat, Pedro + Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de + Salcedo, Felipe + Serra, Fray Junípero + Soberanes, José Maria + Vancouver, Captain George + Velasco, Luis de + Vila, Vicente + Vizcaino, Fray Juan + Vizcaino, Sebastian + Yorba, José Antonio + Zúñiga y Asevedo, Gaspar de + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[Footnote 1: Sierra de Santa Lucia.] + +[Footnote 2: Audiencia, the highest judicial body.] + +[Footnote 3: The system of encomienda conferred feudal rights upon the +discoverers. The Indians became vassals of Spanish lords.] + +[Footnote 4: Vizcaino says he set out on the discovery of the coast of the South +Sea with two ships, a lancha, and a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small +vessel having no deck and but one mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas +calls the vessel a fragata. A barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long +open boat.] + +[Footnote 5: The second voyage of Vizcaino is of particular interest to +Californians for the reason that the names given by him to the various +geographical features of the coast still remain. The particulars of the +first voyage are taken largely from the publications of the Southern +California Historical Society of documents in the Sutro collection.] + +[Footnote 6: Sutro Col. Pub. Southern California Hist. Socy.] + +[Footnote 7: Prof. George Davidson identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River +in 42° 25'.] + +[Footnote 8: About Cape San Quintin, the latitude of their northernmost mission.] + +[Footnote 9: Instruccion qua ha de observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro +Pages, 5 enero de 1769. Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish +Archives of California.] + +[Footnote 10: So-called from the cuera, a leathern jacket worn by them as a +defensive armor.] + +[Footnote 11: Out West. March-July, 1902.] + +[Footnote 12: Pancakes.] + +[Footnote 13: Dead Men's Point. The name has disappeared from the modern maps, +but is found on all of the old ones. It is the foot of H street where +the cars for the Coronado ferry turn on to the wharf.] + +[Footnote 14: I am well aware that this claim will be disputed by one whose +study of original documents and power of analysis make him perhaps the +greatest authority on early California History; but I am nevertheless +prepared to maintain my position.] + +[Footnote 15: Carga, 275 lbs.] + +[Footnote 16: Hence the presidial soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so +distinguished from soldiers of the regular army.] + +[Footnote 17: Diario Historico de los viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte +de la California. Ms. Original in Sutro Library.] + +[Footnote 18: The league is the Spanish league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles.] + +[Footnote 19: They also gave it the name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th, they +had just observed.] + +[Footnote 20: Sometimes called the Grand Pardon of Assisi--the great indulgence +of the Franciscans. Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church +of Our Lady of the Angeles of Porciúncula, it was, by apostolic indult, +expanded to accompany the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is +enough for him to erect an altar and that altar will be to him St. +Mary of the Angels, and he will there find the Porciúncula of the +revelations. Whoso confesses and receives the sacrament in the church of +Porciúncula is granted plenary remission of his sins in this world and +the next. This indulgence is only for August 2nd--that is, from the +afternoon of August 1st until sunset of August 2nd.] + +[Footnote 21: It is to this incident that the city of Los Angeles owes its name. +The full baptismal name of the city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los +Angeles--Our Lady the Queen of the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by +royal order, the second pueblo established in California.] + +[Footnote 22: Ranchería is the name given to an Indian village or town.] + +[Footnote 23: The Valley of the Bears.] + +[Footnote 24: The diarists applied the word cañada to either a cañon or an open +valley.] + +[Footnote 25: The word ensenada, much used by the Spanish explorers, means a +bight or open roadstead, not an enclosed and protected bay.] + +[Footnote 26: "Transportar en Xamus al Modo que cominan las mujeres en +Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California, ii. 181.] + +[Footnote 27: The names given on this portion of the route have all disappeared, +but are here given as a suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad.] + +[Footnote 28: The Fleas.] + +[Footnote 29: It must be borne in mind that what they called the Bay or Port of +San Francisco was that stretch of water reaching from Point Reyes to +Point San Pedro and later known as the Gulf of the Farallones.] + +[Footnote 30: Professor George Davidson says that what was seen by Portolá from +the Montara mountains was the break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep +narrow valley which runs straight from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay, +fourteen miles.] + +[Footnote 31: The Golden Gate and Bay of San Francisco.] + +[Footnote 32: The Bay of San Francisco continued to be called the "Estero," until +some time after Colonel Anza established the presidio and mission of San +Francisco in 1776.] + +[Footnote 33: The present name, Cañada de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov. +30, 1714.] + +[Footnote 34: On November, 1774, Rivera came up the peninsula on an exploring +expedition and on the spot where he had camped with the first expedition +in 1769, he planted a cross to mark the place for a mission. In March, +1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, coming to select sites for the +Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, notes this cross on the bank +of the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San Francisquito creek), about one +hundred paces above the great redwood tree, and says the plan for a +mission there was abandoned because the creek was dry in summer. I note +this explanation because an excellent authority has located Portolá's +camp on Redwood creek.] + +[Footnote 35: I give to Ortega the credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the +Straits of Carquinez. The testimony seems sufficient to me.] + +[Footnote 36: Vizcaino to the King, May 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern +California, Vol. ii, Part 1.] + +[Footnote 37: On the day of the Holy Innocents it was not possible to say mass. +We are sorry for it, because it is the only feast day in all the journey +up to the present that we have been without mass. We are stuck in a mud +hole and are unable to move from the place where we are all wet through, +and it is not possible to make a journada to a plain that is dry for +this is bubbling up water--Crespi, Diario.] + +[Footnote 38: Crespi: Diario.] + +[Footnote 39: Palou: Noticias de la Nueva California.] + +[Footnote 40: Invernate--to winter.] + +[Footnote 41: Manuel Orozco y Berra, Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an +Mexico, Anales del Ministerio de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo +VI, p. 269. Documents in the Archives of the Indies, Seville.] + +[Footnote 42: This is a summary of the document. A full translation would be too +tedious for a work of this kind.] + +[Footnote 43: On the Tres Marias Islands.] + +[Footnote 44: Don Pedro Fages. Commandante of California, who had been recalled.] + +[Footnote 45: Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July +24th. That was to make the sailing fit the Bancroft theories.] + +[Footnote 46: Braza--Fathom: Six feet.] + +[Footnote 47: Ayala anchored inside Port Point--the Presidio anchorage.] + +[Footnote 48: Richardson's Bay.] + +[Footnote 49: Angel Island.] + +[Footnote 50: Alcatraz--Pelican] + +[Footnote 51: The Southern portion of the bay.] + +[Footnote 52: Pt. San Pedro.] + +[Footnote 53: That is: Pt. Almejas or Pt. San Pedro.] + +[Footnote 54: Barranca: The dictionary definition is a ravine or gulch, but it +also means a high bluff or cliff and in that sense is used by these +explorers.] + +[Footnote 55: i. e.: from Pt. Almejas.] + +[Footnote 56: Cliff Rouse Rocks.] + +[Footnote 57: Punta del Angel de la Guarda--Point Lobos.] + +[Footnote 58: Seal Rocks.] + +[Footnote 59: Bakers Beach.] + +[Footnote 60: Lobos Creek.] + +[Footnote 61: i. e.: Inside of Point San Jose--Fort Point.] + +[Footnote 62: Tamalpais] + +[Footnote 63: Point Bonita. The present name was given it in 1776.] + +[Footnote 64: Golden Gate Strait.] + +[Footnote 65: i. e.: The outer harbor; outside of the Golden Gate.] + +[Footnote 66: Lime Point.] + +[Footnote 67: Angel Island.] + +[Footnote 68: The Presidio anchorage.] + +[Footnote 69: This is the body of water between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt. +Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. The high farallon is Red Rock.] + +[Footnote 70: The rocks are The Sisters and The Brothers.] + +[Footnote 71: San Pablo Bay.] + +[Footnote 72: Napa Slough. The marsh was evidently under water, and island number +one, with Mare Island, made one long island.] + +[Footnote 73: Codo--1 1/2 feet.] + +[Footnote 74: Mare Island. The division of the hills or cañon is Carquines +Strait.] + +[Footnote 75: Carquines Straits.] + +[Footnote 76: The Assumption of the Virgin--August 15th. It is Southampton bay.] + +[Footnote 77: That is, from Puerto de la Asumpta.] + +[Footnote 78: Suisun Bay.] + +[Footnote 79: The Sacramento and San Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto +Dulce--Freshwater Port.] + +[Footnote 80: Yerba Buena or Goat Island. Cañizaries marked it on the map (c) for +isla do Alcatraces, but that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of +the entry in the Log under date of August 12, with the map will show.] + +[Footnote 81: Oakland and Berkeley tide flats.] + +[Footnote 82: Islais creek.] + +[Footnote 83: Yerba Buena cove and Mission bay.] + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ *** + +***** This file should be named 4978-8.txt or 4978-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/9/7/4978/ + +Produced by David A. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/4978-8.zip b/4978-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4293bae --- /dev/null +++ b/4978-8.zip diff --git a/4978-h.zip b/4978-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5feda2b --- /dev/null +++ b/4978-h.zip diff --git a/4978-h/4978-h.htm b/4978-h/4978-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ac3a67 --- /dev/null +++ b/4978-h/4978-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3738 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The March of Portolá and the Discovery Of The Bay Of San Francisco, by + Zoeth S. Eldredge + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The March of Portolá + and, The Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents + Translated and Annotated + +Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +Release Date: March 20, 2009 [EBook #4978] +Last Updated: January 26, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + </h1> + <h2> + By Zoeth S. Eldredge + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + Log of the San Carlos and<br /> Original Documents Translated and Annotated + </h1> + <h2> + By E. J. Molera + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h5> + Published by the Reception Committee <br />of The California Promotion + Committee <br /><br /> This Book is published with the approval and <br />endorsement + of the Executive Committee of the Portolá Festival. + </h5> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <b>San Francisco</b> + </pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Serene, indifferent of fate, + Thou sittest at the Western Gate; + + Upon thy heights so lately won, + Still slant the banners of the sun; + + Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, + O warder of two continents, + + And scornful of the peace that flies, + Thy angry winds and sullen skies, + + Thou drawest all things, small or great, + To thee beside the Western Gate." + </pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_INTR"> Introduction </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE + BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLÁ AFTER HE + LEFT CALIFORNIA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to + Send an Expedition by </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander + of the Packet Boat San </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> Description of the Newly-discovered Port of + San Francisco </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, + with Map </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> Index of Persons </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> FOOTNOTES </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Introduction + </h2> + <p> + In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives of + heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record of Spanish + exploration in America. To those of us who have come into possession of + the fair land opened up by them, the story of their travels and adventures + have the most profound interest. The account of the expedition of Portolá + has never been properly presented. Many writers have touched on it, and H. + H. Bancroft, in his History of California, gives a brief digest of + Crespi's diary. Most writers on California history have drawn on Palou's + Vida del V. P. F. Junipero Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and + without looking further, have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We + have endeavored in this sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the + conditions which preceded and led up to the occupation of California. + </p> + <p> + The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific was + early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but small + respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World between + Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated expeditions + into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two ships to look in + Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea, one of which bore + the significant name of California. The voyage of Francis Drake, + 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay he proclaimed the + sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New Albion. Two hundred + years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver explored the coast of + California down to thirty degrees of north latitude (Ensenada de Todos + Santos), which, he says, "is the southernmost limit of New Albion, as + discovered by Sir Francis Drake, or New California, as the Spaniards + frequently call it." Even after the occupation and settlement by the + Spaniards, so feeble were their establishments that, as Vancouver reports + to the Admiralty, it would take but a small force to wrest from Spain this + most valuable possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain + presaged the time when her hold upon America would be loosened, the + standard of individual heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of + Portolá and of Anza rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The + California explorer did not, it is true, have to fight his way through + hordes of fierce natives. The California Indians, as a rule, received the + white adventurers gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as + they had to offer, but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were + but a poor lot. In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea + swarming with fish, a soil capable of growing every character of + foodstuff, these miserable natives lived in a chronic state of starvation. + </p> + <p> + As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portolá upholds the + best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon the + character of the leader. Pánfilo de Narváez landed on the coast of Florida + in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men and forty + horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the previous June, + and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida, only four lived to + reach civilization—the rest perished. That is but one example of + incompetent leadership. When Portolá organized his expedition for the + march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his soldiers were ill from + scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick list numbered nineteen men, + including the governor and Rivera, his chief officer. Sixteen men had to + be carried, and to three, in extremis, the viaticum was administered; but + he brought them all through, and returned to San Diego without the loss of + a man. + </p> + <p> + There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and + the other by Alférez Costansó. There is, besides, a diary of Junípero + Serra of the march from Velicatá to San Diego Bay, a translation of which + is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902. It is of + small value to the student of history. There is a diary by Portolá, quoted + by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by Bancroft. These we + have not seen. There are letters from Francisco Palou, Juan Crespi and + Miguel Costansó, printed in Out West for January 1902. The diary of Father + Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California. Documentos + para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San Francisco, 1874. The diary of + Miguel Costansó is in the Sutro library. It has never been printed. It is + prefaced by an historical narrative, a poor translation of which was + published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, and a better one by Chas. F. Lummis + in Out West, June-July, 1901. In Publications of the Historical Society of + Southern California, Vol. II, Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of + documents of the Sutro collection are printed, with translations by George + Butler Griffin. These relate to the explorations of the California coast + by ships from the Philippines, the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some + letters of Junípero Serra, and diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to + the northern coast in 1774. + </p> + <p> + The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original + documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful + survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by + the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions and + language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted are + Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva + California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C. + Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties of + Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The + Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on the + Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of the + Geographical Society of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + In view of the forthcoming Portolá Festival, The California Promotion + Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its members + to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement of + California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life and + character of Portolá, the committee has been enabled, through the efforts + of one of its members, to have careful search made among the archives of + Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of Mexico, and of + Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet, concerning Portolá, we + have received other documents of the utmost importance to the history of + San Francisco: a chronicle of the events following the discovery of the + Bay. + </p> + <p> + By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the + northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the year + 1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the + commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos, under + Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. To + Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San Francisco, + while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north. Bodega discovered + the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his name as it is + usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft (History of + California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his short and + incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate that neither + map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is with pleasure we + are permitted to present to the public these important documents, now + printed for the first time, and only regret that the shortness of time + allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later some minor + corrections. + </p> + <p> + We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don José + Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San + Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan Manuel + de Ayala. + </p> + <p> + Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He + entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made + Alférez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alférez de Navio, June 15, 1769; + Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776; + and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782. + </p> + <p> + When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala + was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz in + August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by Viceroy + Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner Sonora. + The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the commander of + the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad. Ayala was ordered + to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to San Blas with the + unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days later. + </p> + <p> + In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New + Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and + until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In + August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the San + Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to + Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal + order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of his + services to California. He died December 30, 1797. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Zoeth S. Eldredge, + E. J. Molera, + Charles H. Crocker, + + San Francisco, August, 1909.—Committee. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE MARCH OF PORTOLÁ AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + </h2> + <h3> + By Zoeth S. Eldredge + </h3> + <p> + The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement of + California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to save + the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of a monarch + solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political exigencies of + the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil governors sink into + insignificance and become mere executives of the priestly will, while the + heroic efforts of Junípero Serra to convert the natives, his courage in + the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his unwearied devotion, make him + the impelling factor in the colonization of California. + </p> + <p> + Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into California + strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of Fray Francisco + Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junípero, that all historians + turn for the account of the occupation. Fray Palou details the glorious + life of the leader with whom he toiled; he eulogizes the worthy priest, + the ardent missionary, as he passed up and down the length of the land, + founding missions, planting the vine, the olive, and the fruit tree in a + land whose inhabitants had often suffered from hunger; giving aid and + comfort to the sick and weary and consolation to the dying. Indeed, the + pictures of the padres are fascinating. The infant establishments planted + by the church grew rich and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the + administration of the priests and so generous their hospitality, that life + in California in the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost + dolce far niente existence. + </p> + <p> + Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junípero drawn by Palou, the careful + investigator will find that the impelling factor in the occupation of + California was stern military necessity, not missionary zeal. From the + time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the Pacific up to + forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery, but more than two + hundred years had passed and she had done nothing towards making good this + right by settlement. The country was open to colonization by any nation + strong enough to maintain and protect its colonies. + </p> + <p> + Before relating the story of Portolá's march, let us consider for a moment + the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other European + nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it necessary to + occupy the country. + </p> + <p> + When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent + his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his + grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable + route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from + Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones, + thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward, + following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made a landfall + on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape Mendocino. A sail of + two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of California and New + Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco. This route was charted + by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for nearly three centuries was + the one followed by the galleons of Spain sailing from Manila to Acapulco. + The voyage across the Pacific was a long one and ships in distress were + obliged to put about and make for Japan. A harbor on the coast of + California in which ships could find shelter and repair damages was + greatly desired. A survey of the unknown coasts of the South Sea, as it + was called, was ordered, and it was also suggested that the explorations + be extended beyond the forty-second degree of north latitude, it being + held that the coast was a part of the same continent as that of China, or + only separated therefrom by the narrow strait of Anian, which was believed + to open in latitude forty-two. + </p> + <p> + Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California + was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by his + chief pilot, Bartolomé Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as far north + as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the entrance to + the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible storms in San + Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died. Ferrelo took command + and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in honor of Don Antonio de + Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden Hinde, + took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's Bay. He + took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, and named + it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain Fletcher + writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have some affinity + with our own country." It was in this place and at this time that the + first English service was held in America, by Master Francis Fletcher, + chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in Golden Gate Park, + San Francisco, commemorates the event. + </p> + <p> + Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship, supplied + himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the Southeast + Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the 25th sailed + across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good Hope. + </p> + <p> + In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was + directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather would + permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land and the + harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all that he + accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he accomplished + anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude 37° 30' (Pillar + Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that the mountains<a + href="#linknote-1" name="linknoteref-1" id="linknoteref-1"><small>1</small></a> + were without snow, and that there were many indications of rivers, bays, + and havens along the coast. + </p> + <p> + In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermeñon, a Portuguese sailor in the service of + Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of Gali. In + an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San Agustin. It is + supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was beached in Drake's + Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a boat, called a viroco, + and in this the ship's company of more than seventy persons continued the + homeward voyage. The little vessel reached Puerto de Navidad in safety, + and here the commander and part of the company left it in charge of the + pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of ten men, who brought it into + Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; a most remarkable voyage of nearly + twenty-five hundred miles by shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded + into an open boat. With the loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the + California coast by laden ships from the Philippines came to an end. + </p> + <p> + Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis + de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to the + exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of the + land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at the + expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and trade, + together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually given to the + pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for the expedition + were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader and his partners + in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the courts. Before a + decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge ordered the other + partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to begin the voyage to + the Californias within three months. Under this order, Vizcaino applied to + Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission to make the journey. This was + the condition of affairs when, on October 5, 1596, Velasco was relieved + and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zúñiga y Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took + command. At Velasco's request, Zúñiga made a careful examination of all + matters pertaining to the expedition to the Californias, and the result + was not favorable to Vizcaino. The new viceroy did not think that an + enterprise which might involve results of such vast importance should be + entrusted to the leadership of a person of such obscure position and + limited capital. He also doubted if Vizcaino had the resolution and + capacity necessary for so great an undertaking, and it appeared to him + that if disorders should arise among his men through lack of discipline, + or if the natives of the country to which he was going should repel him, + the repute and royal authority of the king would be in danger. On the + other hand, there was the decision of the court, the concession of the + viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino had already been at expense in the + matter. Zúñiga communicated his doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his + perplexity, submitted the question to a theologian and a jurist, selected + as the viceroy writes, from the number of those whose opinions were + entitled to the greatest consideration. Their decision was that the + concession of the viceroy had the force of an agreement and contract; that + what was at first a favor had become a right, and that, as the captain had + manifested no incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact + could not be varied. The audiencia<a href="#linknote-2" + name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a>, before whom + Zúñiga also laid the matter, was of like opinion. In view, therefore, of + the length to which the affair had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul + the contract but to do all in his power to insure the success of the + expedition. That Vizcaino's soldiers might respect and esteem him, the + viceroy clothed him with authority and showed him the greatest honor. He + required Vizcaino to furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories + of the ships and lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails + and tackle, the number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, + ammunition, and all other property, and he instructed the royal officers + at Acapulco that the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was + fully provided with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of + the people. The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zúñiga's report, + ordered him to cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for + the expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino + had sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six + hundred tons; the San José, a smaller ship, under command of Captain + Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in March, + 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast of Colima, + where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this point the + watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that Vizcaino + complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the conduct of his + soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape Corrientes, thence + northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan. From Mazatlan he bore + west-northwest across the Gulf of California and landed in a large bay + which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as the Bay of Cerralbo. From + here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named because of the peaceful + character of the Indians, who received him hospitably with presents of + fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is supposed, the place where Jimenez, + the discoverer of California, lost his life in 1533, and where Córtez + planted his ill-fated colony two years later. In entering the bay, the + flagship ran on a shoal, and they were obliged to cut away her masts and + lighten her of her cargo of provisions, a great part of which was wet and + lost. Here Vizcaino landed and built a stockade fort, and leaving the + dismantled flagship and the married men of his company under command of + his lieutenant, Figueroa, he sailed on October 3rd, with the San José and + the lancha and eighty men to explore the gulf. He encountered severe + storms which separated his vessels, and not having proper discipline among + his men, had trouble with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen + men were lost by the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back + to La Paz, where his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their + comrades, demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions + was running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the + lancha, he sent them back, and with the San José and forty of the more + adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the headwaters + of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong north winds, and + only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then yielding to the + demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles of Mazatlan. + </p> + <p> + The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, but he + made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land double + the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its seas + abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds, in + quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea; while in + the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the northwest, were + people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and silver ornaments, + cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the country (turkeys), + and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told him—not only in one + place but in many. He desired permission to make another voyage, and as + the late expedition had exhausted his own resources, asked that he be + granted thirty-five thousand dollars from the royal treasury and + outfitting for his ships. These advances he agreed to repay from the first + gain received by him during the voyage. He also asked, on behalf of those + who accompanied him, that the countries brought by him into subjection to + the crown be given to them encomienda for five lives<a href="#linknote-3" + name="linknoteref-3" id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a>; that they be + made gentlemen and granted all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that + other gentlemen enjoy, not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in + Spain. For these and for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with + five ships, equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, + arms and ammunition, provisions, etc.—all things necessary for the + voyage. He would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones + and valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish + taken, and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make + discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take + possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements, build + forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one hundred + leagues. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as he + had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council decided + that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zúñiga favored Don + Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council ordered that + Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all necessary funds; it + granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, and that the discoverers + should have all the privileges of gentlemen throughout the Indies. It also + granted other minor privileges and boons asked for. Vizcaino was made + captain-general of the expedition, and sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, + with orders to explore the coasts of the Californias from Cape San Lucas + to Cape Mendocino, or as far north as latitude forty-two. His ships were + the San Diego, flagship, the Santo Tomas, under Toríbio Gomez de Corvan, + the Tres Reyes, a small fragata or tender, under Alférez Martin Aguilar, + and a barcolongo for exploring rivers and bays<a href="#linknote-4" + name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a>. The chief + pilot of the expedition was Francisco Bolaños who had been one of the + pilots with Cermeñon on the lost San Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites + looked after the spiritual needs of the adventurers. The story of this + second voyage of Vizcaino is well known. On the 10th of November, they + were in the Bay of San Diego, which Vizcaino named for San Diego de + Alcalá, whose day, November 14th, they spent in the bay, ignoring the + name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo sixty years before. Later in the + month he entered and named San Pedro bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of + Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, it was. He also named the islands + still known as Santa Catalina and San Clemente. He next sailed through and + named the Canal de Santa Barbara, which saint's day, December 4th, was + observed while in the channel, and also named Isla de Santa Barbara and + Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta de la Concepcion, which he named<a + href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a>, + Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a thick fog, which lifting on December + 14th, revealed to the voyagers the lofty coast range usually sighted by + the ships coming from the Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a + river flowing from high hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To + the mountains he gave the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of + the Saint whose day (December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the + stream he named Rio del Cármelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. + Rounding a high wooded point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he + dropped anchor in Monterey bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found + the much desired harbor of refuge, and he named it for his patron, the + Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino made the most of his discovery, and in a + letter to the king, written in Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602<a + href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a>, + he gives a most glowing description of the bay, which is, at best, but an + open roadstead. The Indians, as usual, told him of large cities in the + interior, which they invited him to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. + His provisions were almost gone, his men were sick with scurvy, of which + many had died, and putting the most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he + sent her to Acapulco for aid, and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the + flagship and fragata, for the north. A storm soon separated the vessels + and they did not see each other again until they met in the harbor of + Acapulco. Vizcaino was told by the pilot, Bolaños, that Cermeñon had left + in Drake's Bay a large quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he + entered the bay on January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or + cargo. He did not land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did + not appear, he became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of + her. On the 13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. + This was followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in + latitude forty-two—the limit of his instructions—with Cape + Blanco in sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, + "towards Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six + of his men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, + where he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him, + forty-two had died. + </p> + <p> + In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied and + provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He directed + that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition. His orders + were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan, whence he + returned in 1613, and died three years later. + </p> + <p> + For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the + pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued to + make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail down the + coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge was + established and no attempt was made to colonize the country. + </p> + <p> + At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his + possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection. + Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had + crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska, and + their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into more + southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was ready to + turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The Family + Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had aroused the + ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved to demand an + explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack her at home and + abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was time for humbling + the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet caused Pitt's + resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power with vigor and + arrogance unabated. + </p> + <p> + On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree + expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had + established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de + Portolá, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed + governor of the Californias and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five + dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to + dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the + Franciscans. + </p> + <p> + The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the + northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take + effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger of + invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a person + of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out so great an + undertaking, Don José de Galvez, visitador-general of the kingdom and + member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services and volunteered + to go to Lower California and effect the organization and equipment of the + expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and Galvez set out from + the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on the coast of New + Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken by a courier from + the viceroy bringing orders just received from the court directing that a + maritime expedition should be at once dispatched to Monterey and that port + fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas on the 16th of May, 1768, the + señor visitador laid before them the situation and the wishes of the king. + He stated that on the exterior or occidental coasts of the Californias, + Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas on the south to the Rio de los Reyes<a + href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + in 43 degrees, though the only portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up + to 30° 30'.<a href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> + The civilized or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon—people + of reason) did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, + including the families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those + of the miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to + establish themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, + they might fortify themselves there before the government could receive + notice of it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New + Spain there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built + in San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small + tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications + between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted + all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign invasion. + All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present the commandant + of the department and the army officers and pilots who chanced to be + there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the San Carlos and + San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships, while Galvez + proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of supplies and + provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid under + contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions to be + established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule herd; + for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition by one by + land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long sea-voyage + should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don Gaspar de Portolá, + volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named commander-in-chief. + Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the presidio of Loreto, was + appointed second in command. The troops were composed of forty cavalrymen + from the presidio of Loreto in Lower California, under Rivera, and + twenty-five infantrymen of the compania franca of Catalonia, under + Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial troops were joined thirty + Christian Indians from the missions, armed with bows and arrows. These + were intended for the land expedition. The mission of Santa Maria, the + northernmost mission on the peninsula, was the rendezvous of the land + forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded with provisions for the land + expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay of San Luis Gonzaga, the + nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria, whither also went by land the + troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the herd of every sort. Finding + insufficient pasturage for the cattle at Santa Maria, they advanced to + Velicatá, some thirty miles distant, and here was assembled the land + expedition. In addition to the officers named, Don Miguel Costansó, ensign + of royal engineers, was ordered to join the expedition as cosmographer and + diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was appointed physician. To minister to the + soldiers and take charge of the missions to be established in the new + land, the following missionary priests, all of the college of San Fernando + in Mexico, were named to accompany the expedition. Fray Junípero Serra, + appointed president of the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, + Fray Fernando Parron, Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was + loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junípero Serra sang mass + aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and the + standards. The visitador named the Señor San José patron of the + expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those + about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans + of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alférez Miguel + Costansó, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The ship was + commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy; the mate was + Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two boys, four cooks, and + two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's company—sixty-two in + all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and sailed on the 10th. + Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas—chief of the military + expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of the soldiers on + land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey<a href="#linknote-9" + name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a>. On the 15th + of February, Father Junípero performed like offices for the San Antonio, + and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan Perez, "of the + navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino and Gomez, some + carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the sailors, made some + ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The rendezvous was San Diego bay, + where all were to meet. + </p> + <p> + The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division, under + Rivera, started from Velicatá March 24th, and the second, under command of + the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre Crespi, Pilotin + (Mate) Jose Cañizares. Twenty-five soldados de cuera<a href="#linknote-10" + name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a>, three + muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians—forty-two men. With the + governor marched Junípero Serra, fifteen soldados de cuera, under Sergeant + Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers and Indians—forty-four + in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being Easter Sunday, Junípero + established the Mission of San Fernando with Fray Miguel de la Campa as + Minister. For the succor and relief of the forces, both sea and land, + Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he named in honor of the protector + of the expedition, the San Jose, and loading her with supplies and + provisions, sent her with orders to meet the expedition at Monterey. She + was lost at sea. + </p> + <p> + There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles + through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junípero's diary lies + before me<a href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a>; + it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, the Indians they + met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, etc.; no course, no + distances traveled, or other like information necessary to an + understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he is not to be + compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight of the sea at + the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was by the sea until + they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San Diego, their Indian + allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the Diegueños, whom they + began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally lot. They thronged the + camp and became a perfect nuisance with their begging and stealing. They + begged from Junípero his robe and from the governor his cuera, waistcoat, + breeches, and all he had on. One of them succeeding in inducing Junípero + to take off his spectacles to show them to him and as soon as he got them + in his hands made off with them, causing the priest a thousand + difficulties to recover them. On the 27th of June Sergeant Ortega, with + his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and announced to the anxious camp the + proximity of the governor. Rivera sent ten of his soldiers with fresh + horses back with Ortega, and Portolá, in advance of his command, reached + the camp June 29th, and the entire division arrived, June 30th, in good + order and condition, forty-six days from Velicatá. + </p> + <p> + Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other + divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the placid + waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more formidable + than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when on the 11th of + April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and dropped her anchor + not far from the point where now the ferry boat for Coronado leaves the + slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at the rendezvous. No + attempt was made to land, for they were alone and dread scurvy had them in + its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's company were sick. On the + 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La Paz, with her company in + even worse condition. All were sick, some had died, and only four sailors + remained on their feet, aided in working the ship by such of the soldiers + as were able to help. She had been driven far out of her course; had found + herself short of water, and had to put into the island of Cedros to supply + herself, and it was with the greatest difficulty she reached the bay of + San Diego. The first thing to be done was to find good water and to + minister to the sick. For this purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro + Fages, Don Miguel Costansó, and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five + men-soldiers, sailors, etc., all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding + up the shore, found, by direction of some Indians, a river of good + mountain water at a distance of three leagues to the northeast. Moving + their ships as near as they could, they prepared on the beach a camp, + which they surrounded with a parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted + two cannon. Within they made two large hospital tents from the sails and + awnings of the ships, and set up the tents of the officers and priests. + Then they transferred the sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, + and the list of those able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The + difficulties of their situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines + and food had been consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the + surgeon, himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand + anxieties some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as + the others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun + burned them by day—alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, + two or three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which + had been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight + soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of + the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the + care of the sick. + </p> + <p> + There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of the + fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none were + discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At length, on + the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on the beach + that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and armed as + they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera, fifty days + from Velicatá, without the loss of a man or having a sick one; but they + were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour left and were + issuing two tortillas<a href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12" + id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> per day to each man. Great was + the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's force. + It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This was done, + and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known as "Old Town," + where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. The surgeon, Pedro Prat, + devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths continued, until of the ninety + and more who had sailed from La Paz, two-thirds were laid under the sand + of Punta de los Muertos<a href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" + id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a>. It was now thought best to send + one of the packets to San Blas to inform the viceroy and the visitador of + the state of the expedition, and it was feared that if this were longer + delayed, the ship would be unable to put to sea for lack of mariners. The + San Antonio was selected for this purpose, and was prepared for sea, but + as she was about to sail, the camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by + the arrival of Portolá and the second division, sound in body, and with + 163 mules laden with provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of + the condition of affairs, and desirous that the señor visitador's orders + concerning the sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain + Vila of the San Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that + he might pursue the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's + officers, boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was + not a sailor among the men offered by Portolá, he declined to go to sea + under such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on + board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight + men only for a crew. + </p> + <p> + The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to + Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season should + expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra closed by + snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the sierras + covered with snow on their arrival in April. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th of July, Portolá began his march to Monterey, distant one + hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega, + with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan + volunteers—all that could travel, Ensign Costansó, the priests, + Crespi and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the + missions of Lower California, and two servants—sixty-four in all. + Both Fages and Costansó were sick with scurvy, but joined the command + notwithstanding. The personnel of this expedition contains some of the + best known names in California. Portolá, the first governor; Rivera, + comandante of California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on + the Colorado in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773, + governor, 1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the + Golden Gate and of Carquines Strait<a href="#linknote-14" + name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a>; + lieutenant and brevet captain, comandante of the presidio of San Diego, of + Santa Barbara, and of Monterey; founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara + and of the missions of San Juan Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the + rank and file were men whose names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who + gave his name to Amador county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of + Governor Alvarado; José Raimundo Carrillo, later alférez, lieutenant, and + captain, comandante of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and of + San Diego, and founder of the great Carrillo family; José Antonio Yorba, + sergeant of Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that name and + grantee of the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota, José Ignacio + Oliveras, José Maria Soberanes, and others. + </p> + <p> + At San Diego, Portolá left the sick under the care of the faithful + surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the San + Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junípero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and + Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California + Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them a + sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads<a + href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> + of provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portolá expedition + started, Junípero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San + Diego de Alcalá, the first mission established in Alta California. The + deaths continued, and before Portolá's return in January, eight soldiers, + four sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about + twenty persons at the camp. + </p> + <p> + We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship, San + Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have seen, was + lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San Antonio, + the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, took with him one + hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he concluded, to last + him for six months. + </p> + <p> + On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with six + or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected the + camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was + frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante, with + Fages, Costansó, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia + volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with + spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers; + these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of + pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers. + The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the + spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada). + </p> + <p> + The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive and + defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) and the + adarga (shield)<a href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" + id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a>. The first, being made in the + form of a coat without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses + of dressed deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very + short range. The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on + the left arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his + horse against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used + a species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with + a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to cover + the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding through + the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms were the + lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback, the + broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costansó, who was an + officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor of the + presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they were men + capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and active; "and it + is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen in the world, and + among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the service of the king."<a + href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17" id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> + </p> + <p> + It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train + through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones. It + was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next, and + the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be + traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be had. + The distance made was from two to four leagues<a href="#linknote-18" + name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a>, and the + command rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue + caused by the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the + wandering off of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costansó says + that one of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their + caballada (horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a + country they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most + incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover a + coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any of + these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many leagues, + precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without any human + effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense toil to + gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled, remain of no + service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the Spaniards made + their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more fertile and + pleasing as they progressed northward. + </p> + <p> + The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became the + Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the pretty + valley where later was established the mission of San Luis Rey. They + called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards transferred to + a mission forty miles north of this place. The command rested here, July + 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San Onofre), whose base + they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it seemed to threaten their + advance, but by keeping close to the shore, they held their way, and on + the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of water running through a mesa at + the foot of a sierra, whence looking across the sea, they could descry + Santa Catalina Island. This was San Juan Capistrano, and here they rested + on the 25th. On the 28th they reached the Santa Ana river, near the + present town of that name; a violent shock of earthquake which they + experienced caused them to name the river Jesus de los Temblores<a + href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a>. + July 30th and 31st they were in the San Gabriel valley, which they called + San Miguel, and on August 1st they rested near the site of the present + city of Los Angeles. The stop this day, in addition to the needed rest and + the necessity for exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers + and people of the expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciúncula.<a + href="#linknote-20" name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> + The priests said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon + the soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with + which the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles + river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra Señora + de Los Angeles de Porciúncula<a href="#linknote-21" name="linknoteref-21" + id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a>. Passing up the river, they went + through the cañon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they called + Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos—Valley of St. Catherine of + the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa + Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo cañon, they came to the Santa Clara + river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th. Portolá + named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor of the + saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days, by easy + jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th at the + first rancheria<a href="#linknote-22" name="linknoteref-22" + id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> of the Channel Indians. It being + the vespers of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Señora, Portolá named + the village La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed + houses of clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. + These Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and + very skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles. + Portolá thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de + Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission + of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them + kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made + boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with cords + and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each. The next + four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th, at a large + laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was the site of + the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere were large + populous rancherías of the Indians, and everywhere they were received in + the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than they could + eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of a large + lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was a large + ranchería, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon. Portolá gave + to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherías de Mescaltitan—The + Contiguous Rancherías of Mescaltitan. The name of Mescaltitan is still + attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly drained and contains + some of the finest walnut groves in California. On the 28th, they turned + Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place called by them Paraje de + los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five miles beyond, preserves the + name. On the 30th they crossed a large river, which they named the Santa + Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose day it was. This is now the Santa + Inez, so called from the mission of that name, established on its bank in + 1804. Passing northward along the beach, a sharp spur of the sierra + jutting out at Point Sal turned them inland through the little pass + followed by the Southern Pacific Coast Line, and they came, on September + 10th, to a large lake in the northwest corner of Santa Barbara county, to + which was given the name of Laguna Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. + Three leagues beyond, they camped at a lake named by Costansó, Laguna + Redonda, but which the soldiers called El Oso Flaco—The Thin Bear—and + it is still known by that name. Here Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and + ten of the soldiers complained of sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on + the 4th reached the mouth of the San Luis cañon. Here they were hospitably + received by the chief of a large ranchería, whose appearance caused the + soldiers to apply to him the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor + hanging from his neck. Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the + soldiers applied to the chief, his ranchería, and to the cañon leading up + to San Luis Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many + cases the good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint + has been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount + Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying + qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow cañon of + San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and city of + San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the Sierra de Santa + Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley, whence the march + to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the west and followed the + Cañada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which they called El Estero de + San Serafin. The Cañada de los Osos<a href="#linknote-23" + name="linknoteref-23" id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a>, still so + called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears, one of + which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls. Another + wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their lives. + </p> + <p> + The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came to a + point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa Lucia. + This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars, blocks + the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three thousand + feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portolá sent out + the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the mountains. During + the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way into the sierra + through San Carpóforo cañon, and on the 16th the command moved up the + steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on either side. It is + impossible to follow their route through this rugged mountain range with + any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and painful. On the 20th, + they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the north, and from its summit + the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea of mountains, "presenting," + writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor travelers worn out with the + fatigue of the journey." The cold was beginning to be severe, and many of + the men were suffering from scurvy and unfit for service, which increased + the hardship for all; yet they did not falter but pressed bravely on, and + on the 26th emerged from the mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they + named the Cañada del Palo Caido<a href="#linknote-24" name="linknoteref-24" + id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and + camped on the Salinas river, which they christened Rio de San Elizario. + From now on the march is an easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the + Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see it. + They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of + Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably + that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the + voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno. The + governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part of the + coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers, explored the + coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the very port they + were seeking, while Portolá, with Costansó, Crespi, and five soldiers, + climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada, the northern + point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore northwest at a + distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south a hill ran out into + the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be wooded with pines. They + recognized the one on the north as the Punta de Año Nuevo and that on the + south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two lay the great ensenada<a + href="#linknote-25" name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a>, + with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid down in the coast pilot + (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the famous port of Monterey? + </p> + <p> + They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit + they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was + continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between it + and another point to the south (Point Cármelo) was a small ensenada, where + a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into an estero; + that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they were obliged + to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra which compelled + them to leave the coast on the 16th of September. + </p> + <p> + Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of officers + to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday, October 4th, + the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid the matter + before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of provisions, the + seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the excessive burden of + labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care of the animals, and + continual explorations, and to the lateness of the season. In view of + these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of Monterey could not + be found where it was said to be, each person present was called upon to + express freely his opinion. + </p> + <p> + Costansó spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37°; they had only + reached 36° 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37° 30', so as + either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for going up + to 37° or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish themselves + somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go forward and put + his trust in God. If they found the desired port of Monterey and therein + the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If Monterey did not appear, + they would find a place for a settlement; but if it should be the will of + God that all were to perish, they would have discharged their duty to God + and man in laboring until death in their endeavor to accomplish the + enterprise on which they had been sent. To this decision all agreed, and + signed their names to the compact. + </p> + <p> + Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and locate + camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of October, the + march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of their limbs. Each + night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they were put into + hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried in the mode of + travel used by the women of Andalusia<a href="#linknote-26" + name="linknoteref-26" id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a>. The march + was slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last + extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to + three, who were thought to be dying. + </p> + <p> + On this day they crossed the Rio del Pájaro, which they named because of a + great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which + measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of + the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were + preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the + approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on + hand, gave the river the name La Señora Santa Ana, but again the saint was + ignored, and the river is known as the Pájaro (Bird). On the 17th they + crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the present city + of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Año Nuevo, and camped at + the entrance of the cañon of Waddell creek. They recognized Point Año + Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno, and Crespi estimated + that it was one league distant from the camp. With good water and fuel, + the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both Portolá and Rivera were now + added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables had given out and the rations + were reduced to five tortillas of bran and flour per day. Crespi named the + camp San Luis Beltran, while the soldiers called it La Cañada de Salud. On + the 23d, they again moved forward, passing Punta de Año Nuevo and, + traveling two leagues, camped probably on Gazos creek, where was a large + Indian ranchería, whose inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which + was about opposite Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan + Nepomuceno<a href="#linknote-27" name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a>. + The next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San + Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an + epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw their + end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea seemed to + relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers began to be + less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de los Cursos, and + Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable to travel on the + 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th, they pressed forward. + The next stop was Purisima creek, two short leagues distant, but the way + was rough, and the pioneers had to make roads across three arroyos where + the descents were steep and difficult for the transportation of the + invalids. On the bank of the stream was an Indian ranchería, apparently + deserted. The Spaniards took possession of the huts, but soon came running + forth with cries of "las pulgas! las pulgas!<a href="#linknote-28" + name="linknoteref-28" id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a>" They + preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called the camp Ranchería de + las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the 28th they camped on + Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon Bay. They named the + camp El Llano de los Ansares—The Plain of the Wild Geese—and + Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the command was ill; + the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food very short. They + contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it rained heavily and + Portolá, who was very ill, decided to rest on the 29th. On Monday, October + 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and Pillar Point were noted but no + names given. Several deep arroyos were crossed, some of which required the + building of bridges to get the animals over. They proceeded up the shore + until a barrier of rock confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in + a rincon (corner) formed by the sierra and sheltered from the north wind + they camped while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over + the Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they + named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and + other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta del + Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the Montara + fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers had + prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and at ten + o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the + exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous + sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them, + bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing in + the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea, + rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left, + west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally along + the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what appeared to + be the mouth of an inlet. There could be no mistake. The distant point was + the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahía ó Puerto de San + Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in their hearts + they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the San Pedro + valley<a href="#linknote-29" name="linknoteref-29" id="linknoteref-29"><small>29</small></a> + at the foot of the Montara mountains. + </p> + <p> + Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind but + would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To settle + the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine the country + as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to report, while + the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta de las Almejas + del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the two names of the + camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp in San Pedro + valley. + </p> + <p> + The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass some + of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They climbed the + mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall reported that + they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense estero or arm of the + sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as the eye could reach, + stretching to the southeast; that they had seen some beautiful plains + thickly covered with trees, while the many columns of smoke rising over + them showed that they were well stocked with Indian villages. This story + confirmed them in the belief that they were at the Port of San Francisco, + and that the estero described was that spoken of by Cabrera Bueno, the + mouth of which they imagined they had seen from the Montara mountains<a + href="#linknote-30" name="linknoteref-30" id="linknoteref-30"><small>30</small></a>. + They were now satisfied that Ortega would be unable to reach Point Reyes, + and that three days was not sufficient time to go around the head of such + an estero. The exploring party returned in the night of November 3d, + discharging their fire-arms as they approached. They reported that they + found themselves obstructed by immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily + far back into the land<a href="#linknote-31" name="linknoteref-31" + id="linknoteref-31"><small>31</small></a>, but what caused their rejoicing + was that they understood from the signs of the Indians that at two days + journey from where they were there was a port in which a ship was + anchored. On this announcement, some thought that they were at the port of + Monterey, and that the supply ship San Jose or the San Carlos was waiting + for them. Crespi says that if they were not in Monterey, they were + certainly in San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in whose + honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in the Port + of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que Dios + guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this little + valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father San + Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded on the + nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, in better + spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their march at one + o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up the beach, they + turned into the mountains on their right, and from the summit beheld the + immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into the Cañada de San + Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and traveling two leagues + camped in the cañada at the foot of a hill, very green with low brush, and + having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next two days they traveled down + the cañada, coasting the estero, which they could not see for the low + hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the pleasant land with its groves of + oak, redwood (palo colorado), and madroño. They saw the tracks of many + deer and also of bears. The Indians met them with friendly offers of black + tamales and atole, which were gladly received by the half-starved + Spaniards. They begged the strangers to go to their rancherías, but the + governor excused himself, saying that he must go forward, and dismissed + them with presents of beads and trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end + of the cañada, which suddenly turned to the east, and saw that the estero<a + href="#linknote-32" name="linknoteref-32" id="linknoteref-32"><small>32</small></a> + was finished in a spacious valley. To the cañada they gave the name of San + Francisco<a href="#linknote-33" name="linknoteref-33" id="linknoteref-33"><small>33</small></a>. + Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep arroyo, + whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately into the + estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site of Stanford + University<a href="#linknote-34" name="linknoteref-34" id="linknoteref-34"><small>34</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route, + Portolá now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four days in + which to explore the country and find the port containing the supply-ship. + </p> + <p> + Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the + neighboring rancherías, set out after noon on November 7th and returned in + the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port or + ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the Indians + had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could not be in + advance. They also reported that the country they had seen towards the + north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for the reason that + the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, were hostile and would + dispute the passage. They said that they had encountered another immense + estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait), which also ran far inland and + connected with the one on the southeast, and that to double it would take + many leagues of travel<a href="#linknote-35" name="linknoteref-35" + id="linknoteref-35"><small>35</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were + compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much + suffering from indigestion and fever. + </p> + <p> + Portolá called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the + best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point + of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which + they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the + command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by the + route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of Pines + at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild geese + which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the coast. The + following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of Pines and + camped in the cañada of the Cármelo, where was plenty of wood and good + water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor sent ten + soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian pioneers, who + undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with instructions to + thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the Port of Monterey + was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa Lucia. + </p> + <p> + The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They were + tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and they + reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that the + mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was no + passage along the shore. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa + Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a station + for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence they make a + landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all winds * * * and is + thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of gentle disposition, + peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like that of Castile, and + hemp, and cotton,"<a href="#linknote-36" name="linknoteref-36" + id="linknoteref-36"><small>36</small></a> etc. + </p> + <p> + The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port, + protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the Rio + Cármelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but lagunillas; + "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile, who raised + flax and hemp and cotton?" Costansó says that in their entire journey, + they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people more wild and + savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is not strange that + Portolá failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada, Vizcaino's Famoso + Puerte de Monterey. + </p> + <p> + The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply was + almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the + Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on + December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found + the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding + it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen + half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming + excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited + free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all + might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, the + junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the + provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the mules + for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better to + divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San Diego. + Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented difficulties. + The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the governor + announced his determination. They would return to San Diego at once, he + said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the whole + expedition would be lost. + </p> + <p> + A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of + December 9th, delaying the march. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before + leaving Cármelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the + shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig; + at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a bottle and + buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the expedition, its + commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the channel of Santa + Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage of the Santa Lucia + mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point Reyes, etc. + </p> + <p> + "The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros intervened + which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go around, and + other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of provisions), made + it necessary for us to return, believing that the Port of Monterey might + perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and thinking that we might have + passed it without observing it. We left the estero of San Francisco on our + return on the 11th of November. We passed the Punta de Año Nuevo on the + 19th of said month, and reached the second time this Port and Ensenada de + Pinos on the 27th of the same." + </p> + <p> + It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for + the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it, + their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows the + latitude at various points as observed by Costansó. It requests the + commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them, + should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of the + expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible, that the + expedition might sight and obtain succor from them. + </p> + <p> + The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half, + and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another + cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they + ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming. They + killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and on the + 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers stole + flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided the remainder + among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a mudhole near San + Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it was a feast day<a + href="#linknote-37" name="linknoteref-37" id="linknoteref-37"><small>37</small></a>. + On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here, among the Channel + Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were over, and the health + of the command improved daily. Instead of following up the Santa Clara + river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, into the San Fernando + valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river, crossed the Santa Ana, + January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24, 1770, with the command in + good health and without the loss of a man, "with the merit of having been + compelled to eat the flesh of male and female mules, and with not having + found the Port of Monterey, which we judged to have been filled up by the + great sand dunes which were in the place where we had expected to find + it."<a href="#linknote-38" name="linknoteref-38" id="linknoteref-38"><small>38</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Portolá found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had + died, and Junípero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy. No + tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a + careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicatá in + case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be + exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of + March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure, very + much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera was + sent to Velicatá with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to bring up + the cattle and supplies that had been left there. + </p> + <p> + After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a sail + appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to prevent + the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, and Portolá + prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of Monterey. + Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of the search + were related to him, that the place where they erected the second cross + was the long-lost Port of Monterey. + </p> + <p> + On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junípero, + Costansó, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th, + Portolá set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven + soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego + was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers + Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as + guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with + supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle. + </p> + <p> + Portolá followed the same route that he took on the retreat from Monterey, + and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de Pinos, near + the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place for the camp, + Portolá took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and went to the cross + to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found around the cross a + ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which were decked with + feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them, while at the foot of + the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As Portolá, Fages, and Crespi + walked along the beach and looked out over the bay and noted its calm and + placid waters, with its swimming seals and spouting whales, they broke + forth with one voice, "This is the Port of Monterey which we have sought. + It is exactly as reported by Sebastian Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."<a + href="#linknote-39" name="linknoteref-39" id="linknoteref-39"><small>39</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Cármelo, Portolá + ordered the expedition to Cármelo Bay by direct line, while he, with Fages + and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it well + covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a ship. + They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress Point), + and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they awaited + the arrival of the San Antonio. + </p> + <p> + On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made + signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had + dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors to + be a most famous port. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where, + in 1602, Vizcaino's Cármelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de + Portolá, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition, + Fray Junípero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the + San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with the + crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father president + chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the musical + deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns of the San + Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the conclusion of + the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portolá, governor of the + Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his majesty Don + Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of San Carlos de + Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the first presidio and + second mission in California. + </p> + <p> + In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portolá now delivered + to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command of the new + establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San Blas, and + California knew him no more. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLÁ AFTER HE LEFT CALIFORNIA + </h2> + <h3> + By E. J. Molera + </h3> + <p> + Portolá and Costansó sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to the + viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costansó remained in the capital + and took part in several engineering works, among others, the map of the + Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted by the + writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portolá's further history, has so far + discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's return to the + capital was followed by promotion from Captain to Lieutenant-Colonel in + the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as Governor of Puebla, + February 23, 1777. + </p> + <p> + In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio + covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portolá's + taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state: + </p> + <p> + "Possession of Governor Portolá." + </p> + <p> + "In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal + title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his + Majesty to Señor Don Gaspar de Portolá, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal + Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor, + and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said title + has been forwarded." + </p> + <p> + "The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in + his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from the + king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its contents + and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel Don Gaspar de + Portolá be given possession of said office, and for that purpose, said + noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him to this hail of + sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having certified to his + identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the office of Governor, + doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the poor with excessive taxes; + to keep and cause to be kept, the rights, privileges, royal decrees and + ordinances, etc." + </p> + <p> + "Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal justice, + by which the act of possession was completed." + </p> + <p> + In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portolá as + Governor of Puebla. + </p> + <p> + That in the year 1779, Portolá was still Governor of Puebla is proved by + two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular + official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the + death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith; + the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portolá, dated April 17th, 1779. + </p> + <p> + Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving an + Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos, + Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. Document Obtained + from the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + </p> + <p> + "My Dear Sir:" + </p> + <p> + "By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal + packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don + Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor + of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th + inst. at San Blas." + </p> + <p> + "In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made by + this officer and his pilot, Don José Cañizares, your Excellency will see, + in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained gives + knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities that is + has to invernate<a href="#linknote-40" name="linknoteref-40" + id="linknoteref-40"><small>40</small></a> vessels. The docility and gentle + manners of the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the + utility of the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing + this land." + </p> + <p> + "The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms + everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water, + wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is + rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey." + </p> + <p> + "He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the merit + of the pilot, Don José Cañizares, in discharging the commission entrusted + to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve to that of + the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency that you remind + His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful that the Department + of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made has always shown the + same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the one just finished with + such advantage to the service, because of the information and knowledge he + has shown in the discharge of his duty." + </p> + <p> + "For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as + Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such + important work." + </p> + <p> + "That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish." + </p> + <p> + "Exm°. Sr." + </p> + <p> + "Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands," + </p> + <p> + "Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua." + </p> + <p> + "Mexico, November 26th, 1775." + </p> + <p> + "To His Excellency Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by + </h2> + <p> + Sea to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of + California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Father Junípero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages + the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and + notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico to + lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego in the + mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in + Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773. + </p> + <p> + Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he + considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but + little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official + business, had not an outside incident given them force. + </p> + <p> + Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg, + communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring the + coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the + newspapers of the Russian capital<a href="#linknote-41" + name="linknoteref-41" id="linknoteref-41"><small>41</small></a>. This news + with the corroborating proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts + of April 11th and September 23, 1773. + </p> + <p> + The result of this information was to give a better organization to the + maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California. It + was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco; that + better means of communication be established between San Diego and + Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the + Russians had made settlements on the coast of California. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS + </h2> + <h3> + Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece) + </h3> + <p> + Under Command of Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel + de Ayala + </p> + <p> + From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco + </p> + <p> + The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a + Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at + Seville, Spain<a href="#linknote-42" name="linknoteref-42" + id="linknoteref-42"><small>42</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de + Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in + the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to the + west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don Bruno + de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan de la + Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command of the + packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manríque, was sick and + unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited until the + morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which carried his + predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board to follow the + frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the expedition, Don + Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar and provisions + which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck where they were + liable to be damaged. + </p> + <p> + At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the + wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela + Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in sight + of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the + southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds and + calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable + progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain some + water to replace that which had been consumed<a href="#linknote-43" + name="linknoteref-43" id="linknoteref-43"><small>43</small></a>. The pilot + could not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On + April 2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day + he came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on + board the governor of California<a href="#linknote-44" + name="linknoteref-44" id="linknoteref-44"><small>44</small></a>. From the + Concepcion Ayala obtained six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious + accident happened to the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, + he had a number of loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they + could not injure anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the + bullet entering the commander's foot between the second and third toes, + coming out under the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about + two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about twelve + leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress northward was + very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch to calk the + launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great damage was done. + On the same day indications of land were noted and some whales were seen, + which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On the following day they + saw some seals, which, according to the sailors, was the second sign of + land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which, they say, is proof positive + of land being near. On the same day land was sighted at 4 p. m.; the North + Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north and Point Año Nuevo to + the southeast. At 7 p. m., the South Farallones were seen at a distance of + about two leagues to the northeast. The variation of the needle was + observed and found to be 13° E. + </p> + <p> + Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Año + Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At noon + the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36° 58'. At 3 + p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could not be + seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at 5 p. m. they + saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The variation of the + needle was observed and found to be 12° 58' E. They had some difficulty in + finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy bottom. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail + and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast. + </p> + <p> + Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which time + he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails and + repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under water at + the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half yards. + </p> + <p> + He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36°° 33', + longitude 16° 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San + Francisco, July 26, 1775. + </p> + <p> + That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a + contrary direction. + </p> + <p> + On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the range + of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction<a + href="#linknote-45" name="linknoteref-45" id="linknoteref-45"><small>45</small></a>. + At noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13° distant five miles; at 3 p. + m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Año Nuevo came in + sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant. From + July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of contrary + winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was seen to the + east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was found to be Point + Año Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view bearing north 1/4 + northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was considered to be Point + Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the San Carlos steered + west-southwest and continued in that course until 8 a. m. of the 4th, when + the bearing was changed to the north-northeast. At noon the sun's altitude + was taken and the latitude was found to be 37° 11', and longitude 17° 51' + W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th, the southernmost Farallon of the + Port of San Francisco was seen to the northwest, distant about eight + leagues. The land to the north was Point Reyes, bearing 4° W., distant + about fourteen leagues. At half past eleven, considering the coast was + near, the course was changed to the south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of + August 5th, when it was changed again to the north-northeast 5° north to + bring the ship at sunrise to the point it was at sunset of the day before. + At 5 a. m. four of the Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the + north-northwest, distant four leagues. Point Año Nuevo was southeast 1/4 + east from twelve to fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4° east, + distant three leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala + lowered the launch, and in it Pilot Cañizares was sent with ten men to + search for an anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. + At 9 a. m. a strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at + eleven it was observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which + convinced the commander that it was due to the tide, and this was + confirmed by the soundings; in entering the port, as on the first + occasion, the tide was going out, and on the second one the tide was + coming in. The altitude of the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the + utmost care, and the latitude was found to be 37° 42' and the longitude + 17° 14' W. of San Blas. At this time Point Año Nuevo was about fourteen + leagues distant to the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, + distant four leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four + leagues. The wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to + the north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and + bottom found at sixteen brazas<a href="#linknote-46" name="linknoteref-46" + id="linknoteref-46"><small>46</small></a> of mud and sand mixed, and + distant from the mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at + fifteen brazas, with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was + continued and the bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The + current was so great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a + strong wind from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed + them to go not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the + current must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The + swiftness of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and + that night was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this + was done with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it + necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging might + give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with a 20-lb. + lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either in the + channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was realized + that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike bottom. They + continued thus until they were one league inside the mouth of the bay and + a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind suddenly stopped. + Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards the mouth, an + anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast to the big mast so + that if it did not catch the bottom it would not be lost. It was found + that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made ready to drop in case the + big one should drag. When the wind stopped and the current ceased, the + vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas, with sandy bottom<a + href="#linknote-47" name="linknoteref-47" id="linknoteref-47"><small>47</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset + the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not + come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the + entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable + harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he + attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were + such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried + him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor he + had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired out, + made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out, with the + same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw the + packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in + reaching her. + </p> + <p> + At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which was to + the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had sufficient + water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of shelter + then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing his anchor + in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to the east, + although the wind came from the landward which was about two leagues from + the harbor<a href="#linknote-48" name="linknoteref-48" id="linknoteref-48"><small>48</small></a>. + He called this harbor "Carmeita," because in it was a rock resembling a + friar of that order. There was in its vicinity an Indian village, the + inhabitants of which came out from their huts and cried out and made signs + for the vessel to go near them. As the sailors were taking soundings and + came near the shore, the Indians erected a pole, at the top of which was a + large number of feathers. The sailors having no orders to answer them, + remained at a distance from the shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, + that the sailors were afraid of them, endeavored to assure them by + dropping their bows to the ground, and after describing a circle in the + air with the arrows stuck them in the sand. The launch came on board + again, and soon after, the Indians, from a point of land near the vessel, + talked to the sailors with loud cries, and although their voices were + heard distinctly, they could not be understood for want of an interpreter. + At 9 the launch was sent again to another harbor to the north, which + seemed to be better sheltered and to have better anchorage<a + href="#linknote-49" name="linknoteref-49" id="linknoteref-49"><small>49</small></a>. + It was so, and when the launch returned at 10, the pilot stated that he + found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas, and the bottom was sticky with + mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards the place examined, but a strong + current prevented her reaching it. It was then decided to anchor in + fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they stayed there all night, during + which time the vessel moved on account of the bad quality of the anchors. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and + fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and the + bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided to go + to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary to return + to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling to the men + with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch with the + priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must not molest + the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for which purpose + the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and ordered them to + observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians showed fight they + could easily return to the launch, where four armed men must always remain + to protect the retreat. It is true that from the day when intercourse was + first had with the Indians, it was seen how affable and hospitable they + were, showing the greatest desire for the Spaniards to go to their + village, where, they said, they could eat and sleep. They had already + prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from their corn, and tomales of + the same. During the time the Spaniards were with the Indians, they found + that the latter repeated the Spanish words with great facility, and by + signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go on board the packet boat, but + the Indians, also by signs, signified that until the Spaniards should + visit their village, they could not go on board. After a little while the + Spaniards returned to the boat and the Indians disappeared. + </p> + <p> + On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the + bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near + Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places were + found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, which + was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter even + for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"<a href="#linknote-50" + name="linknoteref-50" id="linknoteref-50"><small>50</small></a> on account + of the abundance of those birds that were on it. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of + water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don José + de Cañizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a few + days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, Don + Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find the + party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send to San + Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but explored an + estero which enters the land about twelve leagues<a href="#linknote-51" + name="linknoteref-51" id="linknoteref-51"><small>51</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where + they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to ask + for bread in Spanish. + </p> + <p> + From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay of San + Francisco continued, and first pilot Don José de Cañizares was instructed + to make his report and the map of the bay. + </p> + <p> + On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, + but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had + carried the vessel. + </p> + <p> + From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the + rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place on + that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day. + </p> + <p> + In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox in + good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till + October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on + November 6th of the same year. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San + </h2> + <p> + Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the + Examination of the Port of San Francisco + </p> + <p> + Your Excellency:—I have finished the orders under which I took + command of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, + November 6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San + Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, + together with the pilot, Don José Cañizares' report of his examination and + the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, + notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of San + Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from Cape + Horn. + </p> + <p> + After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor of + Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo and + making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July 27th, I + started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived on the + night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting by + myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that + pertains to this matter. + </p> + <p> + It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony that + offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh water, + wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is healthful and + free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in Monterey, because + the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, and once inside the + harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many advantages is to be added + the best: and this is that the heathen Indians around this port are so + constant in their good friendship and so gentle in their manners, that I + received them with pleasure on board several times, and I had the sailors + frequently visit with them on land; so that from the first to the last + day, they remained the same in their behavior. This made me present them + with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; the last they learned to ask for + clearly in our language. + </p> + <p> + There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, + enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was ordered of + me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my predecessor, Don + Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was possible we might + find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken by Captain Don Juan + de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer of another small land + expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don Fernando de Rivera, made me. + I did not see either of them while I remained in that port, but I did not, + on that account, postpone the reconnaissance. I could not do all of this + in person, because I was convalescing from a serious wound in my right + foot, received April 3d by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel + pistol, which Don Miguel Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. + Notwithstanding this, I am satisfied that Don José Cañizares executed with + his usual ability everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to + Your Excellency (in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), + that as long as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, + but showed such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my + troubles I found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my + duty. + </p> + <p> + On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I + considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no + wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring the + rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me to + enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and again + tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I noticed + in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because the + rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before had warned + me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, I determined to + pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on the 19th. At this port + I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came October 7th, and I left + for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my foot, but always desirous + to obey Your Excellency. + </p> + <p> + I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years. + </p> + <p> + San Blas, November 9, 1775. + </p> + <p> + Juan Manuel de Ayala. + </p> + <p> + To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco + </h2> + <h3> + Situated in Latitude 37° 53' North, Longitude 17° 10' West of San Blas + </h3> + <p> + By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala + </p> + <p> + Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas<a + href="#linknote-52" name="linknoteref-52" id="linknoteref-52"><small>52</small></a>, + latitude 37° 42', the following is to be seen: First that it<a + href="#linknote-53" name="linknoteref-53" id="linknoteref-53"><small>53</small></a> + is large, with two red barrancas<a href="#linknote-54" + name="linknoteref-54" id="linknoteref-54"><small>54</small></a>, and + second, that to the north there are three white rocks at a stone's throw<a + href="#linknote-55" name="linknoteref-55" id="linknoteref-55"><small>55</small></a>. + From that point the coast runs north-northeast, forming a small harbor in + which there are five submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some + white barrancas<a href="#linknote-56" name="linknoteref-56" + id="linknoteref-56"><small>56</small></a>, ending in a sloping bill which + top, to the north, is what is called Angel Point<a href="#linknote-57" + name="linknoteref-57" id="linknoteref-57"><small>57</small></a>. This has + near it several rocks<a href="#linknote-58" name="linknoteref-58" + id="linknoteref-58"><small>58</small></a>, the furtherest one a gunshot + distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient to accommodate any + vessel<a href="#linknote-59" name="linknoteref-59" id="linknoteref-59"><small>59</small></a>, + not only on account of its bottom, but because it is sheltered from all + winds excepting those from the west-southwest. The middle of this harbor + is to the northwest, where a copious creek empties<a href="#linknote-60" + name="linknoteref-60" id="linknoteref-60"><small>60</small></a>; the point + runs northeast 1/4 east. This harbor, with the one inside of it, which I + called San Jose<a href="#linknote-61" name="linknoteref-61" + id="linknoteref-61"><small>61</small></a>, has been found very good, with + the prevailing winds from the south to the northwest. + </p> + <p> + From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are seen, + distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a sugar-loaf. + To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve leagues, a + mountain<a href="#linknote-62" name="linknoteref-62" id="linknoteref-62"><small>62</small></a> + is seen which ends in a low point. According to the records of Sebastian + Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, this is the one called Point + Reyes. From this point the coast runs east-southeast in the shape of a + half-moon, open to all winds of the third quarter and ending in two + barrancas at the foot of which a low point comes out with two submerged + rocks. This point was called Santiago<a href="#linknote-63" + name="linknoteref-63" id="linknoteref-63"><small>63</small></a>, and, with + one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth of the channel of the + entrance of the port<a href="#linknote-64" name="linknoteref-64" + id="linknoteref-64"><small>64</small></a>. Following this shore in a + northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three small + rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter any vessel. + This harbor<a href="#linknote-65" name="linknoteref-65" id="linknoteref-65"><small>65</small></a> + ends on the north with a large, steep, and broken point, at the foot of + which there is a white farallon to which and to the point I gave the name + of San Carlos<a href="#linknote-66" name="linknoteref-66" + id="linknoteref-66"><small>66</small></a>, and with Point San José, which + is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this famous port. It + is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or leaves this port + must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos Point, because in + this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless the rudder, but + must take the middle of the channel or sail near the shores of San José + Point. + </p> + <p> + To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island<a + href="#linknote-67" name="linknoteref-67" id="linknoteref-67"><small>67</small></a> + is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides the + water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, + especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island where + water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of the island is + such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a pistol-shot of the + shore. + </p> + <p> + To the east-northeast of Point San José there is a sheltered harbor, + landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where + water and some wood are to be found<a href="#linknote-68" + name="linknoteref-68" id="linknoteref-68"><small>68</small></a>. In this + harbor there is no current, and for that reason, and because it is so near + the point I consider, it one of the best anchorages. + </p> + <p> + Once Points San José and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to + leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any + place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid is + the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its + branches three miles. + </p> + <p> + This report was made to me by Pilot Don José Cañizares, to whom I + entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map + </h2> + <p> + Report of the Pilot Don José de Cañizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala + </p> + <p> + Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the + Indies at Seville. + </p> + <p> + Dear Captain:—During the four times that I made reconnaissance of + this Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast + what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast of + Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a direction + north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the points + forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is about two + and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are three small + islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage of shallow + water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded with hills with + few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a distance to the + west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to be pines. In the middle + of this bay is standing a high farallon with submerged rocks around it. On + the northeast of it there is sufficient water for anchorage, as is shown + on the map. There is no doubt of its being good anchorage for vessels, + provided they have good cables and anchors, for they are subject to great + stress because of the current, which at this point, cannot be less than + four miles an hour<a href="#linknote-69" name="linknoteref-69" + id="linknoteref-69"><small>69</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where + there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south + ones<a href="#linknote-70" name="linknoteref-70" id="linknoteref-70"><small>70</small></a> + form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes to another bay<a + href="#linknote-71" name="linknoteref-71" id="linknoteref-71"><small>71</small></a> + more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight leagues, its shape a + perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided into two channels,—one, + on the side of the southwest coast, turns to the northwest at about the + distance of a mile and ends in two large harbors which are situated in the + same shore at about four league's distance from the mouth that + communicates with the first bay; from the northwest point of the furthest + harbor to the north of it, distant about one and a half leagues, in + turning a point to the west-northwest, a large body of water<a + href="#linknote-72" name="linknoteref-72" id="linknoteref-72"><small>72</small></a> + is seen, which I did not examine because the channel which leads to it is + extremely limited, its depth not having three codos<a href="#linknote-73" + name="linknoteref-73" id="linknoteref-73"><small>73</small></a> of water; + from here to the east-northeast follows a low-lying island, just above the + water level, ending in a division made by the hills<a href="#linknote-74" + name="linknoteref-74" id="linknoteref-74"><small>74</small></a>. The other + channel, which is roomy and deep, runs directly in a northeast direction + till it reaches the division of the hills through a cañon that runs in the + same direction. + </p> + <p> + All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it is + not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, + excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the + southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. + Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, + and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not + difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account of + the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its shore, I + did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in the cañon, + which is to the northeast, there is a channel<a href="#linknote-75" + name="linknoteref-75" id="linknoteref-75"><small>75</small></a> a mile and + a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a ranchería of + about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy + anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me for + that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was useful + to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes (amongst + them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting them four + times and found them always as friendly as the first time, noticing in + them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and retirement in the + women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with good will what is + given them, without being impertinent, as are many others I have seen + during the conquest. This Indian village has some scows or canoes, made of + tule, so well constructed and woven that they caused me great admiration. + Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing with two-ended oars with such + speed that I found they went faster than the launch. These were the only + Indians with whom I had communication in this northern part. + </p> + <p> + Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a + harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and + sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland + ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called it + Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of that + saint<a href="#linknote-76" name="linknoteref-76" id="linknoteref-76"><small>76</small></a>. + </p> + <p> + To the southeast of this port<a href="#linknote-77" name="linknoteref-77" + id="linknoteref-77"><small>77</small></a> the cañon continues, until it + joins the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three + leagues in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay<a + href="#linknote-78" name="linknoteref-78" id="linknoteref-78"><small>78</small></a> + with a depth of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers<a + href="#linknote-79" name="linknoteref-79" id="linknoteref-79"><small>79</small></a> + empty and take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the + same as in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is + the largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has + many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in very + low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their + mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. + This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second + occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on the + bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than the + Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult to obtain + wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is covered with + trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, and impossible + of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the north of Angel + Island. To the southeast of said island following the estero is as + follows: + </p> + <p> + To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is + another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth of + the channel in two<a href="#linknote-80" name="linknoteref-80" + id="linknoteref-80"><small>80</small></a>, through which the sea enters to + a distance of about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some + parts, one, two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its + width ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not + over two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a + point, a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry<a href="#linknote-81" + name="linknoteref-81" id="linknoteref-81"><small>81</small></a>. In every + part there are seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, + bunches of tule, and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, + since they are in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for + three leagues inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the + weather that strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against + the strong current from the north. + </p> + <p> + The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has in + its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of thick + redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, navigable + only by launches<a href="#linknote-82" name="linknoteref-82" + id="linknoteref-82"><small>82</small></a>, and on the coast two harbors<a + href="#linknote-83" name="linknoteref-83" id="linknoteref-83"><small>83</small></a> + where vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian + village, rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better + places for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance. + </p> + <p> + All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, and + sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the + reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as proof + of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter of + Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775. + </p> + <p> + José de Cañizares. + </p> + <p> + Index of Places + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Acapulco + Alcatraz Island + Almejas, El Rincon de las + Almejas, Punta del + Angel Island + Angel Point + Año Nuevo, Punta de + Arroyo de San Francisco + Arroyo Seco + Baker's Beach + Barranca + Ballenas Bay + Bonita, Point + Brazas + California, Baja + California, Gulf of + Cañada + Cañada do los Osos + Cañada do San Andres + Cármelo, Pt + Cármelo, bay + Cármelo, Rio del + Carquines, strait + Cerralbo, Bay of + Codo + Columbia river + Concepcion, Laguna de la + Concepcion, Point + Diegueños + Drake's Bay + El Buchon + El Oso Flaco + Ensenada + Farallones de San Francisco + Farallones, Gulf of + Florida + Fort Point + Golden Gate + Golden Gate, strait + Guadalupe, lake + Islais creek + Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de + La Paz, Bay of + La Paz, port of + Lime Point + Lobos creek + Loreto, presidio of + Los Angeles, City of + Los Angeles, river + Napa slough + Mare Island + Mendocino, Cape + Mescaltitan + Mission bay + Montara mountains + Monterey, Bay of + Monterey, Port of + Monterey, presidio and mission of + Muertos, Punta de los + Navidad, Puerto de + Oakland Flats + Pájaro, Rio del + Pedernales, Point + Philippine Islands + Pilar Point + Pinos, Punta de + Porciúncula, Indulgence + Puerto Dulce + Punta del Angel de la Guarda + Presidio anchorage + Ranchería + Reyes, Punta de los + Reyes, Rio de los + Richardson's bay + Red Rock + Ross, Fort + San Blas + San Buenaventura, mission of + San Carlos, Point + San Clemente, island + San Corpóforo, cañon + San Diego + San Diego, bay + San Diego, Founding of mission + San Diego, presidio of + San Elizario, Rio de + San Fernando, valley + San Francisco, Bahia ó Puerto de + San Francisco, Bay of + San Francisco, Port of + San Francisco, creek + San Gabriel, valley + San Joaquin river + San Jose, Point + San Juan Capistrano, mission of + San Lorenzo, Rio de + San Luis Obispo + San Luis Rey, mission of + San Miguel (island) + San Nicolas, Isla de + San Pablo bay + San Pedro bay + San Pedro Point + San Pedro valley + Santa Ana, Rio de + Santa Barbara Channel + Santa Barbara Isla de + Santa Barbara presidio of + Santa Catalina, island + Santa Clara, river + Santa Inez, river + Santa Lucia, Sierra de + Santa Maria, mission of + Santa Rosa, river + Santa Susana, Sierra de + Sacramento, river + Sal, Point + Salines, river + Santiago, Point + Seal Rocks + Suisun bay + Tamalpais, mountain + The Brothers (rocks) + The Sisters (rocks) + Tomales bay + Velicatá + Yerba Buena cove +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Index of Persons + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Aguilar, Martin + Aguirre, Juan B. + Alvarado, Juan Bautista + Amador, Pedro + Anza, Juan Bautista de + Arriaga, Julian de + Ayala, Juan Manuel + Bancroft, H. H. + Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la + Bolaños, Francisco + Bucareli, Antonio Maria + Bueno, Cabrera + Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues + Cañizares, José + Carrillo, José Raimundo + Cermeñon, Sebastian + Coronado, Francisco Vasquez + Cortes, Hernando + Corvan, Toribio Gomez de + Costansó, Miguel + Cota, Pablo de + Crespi, Juan + Davidson, George + De Gali, Francisco + De Soto, Hernando + Drake, Francis + Estorace, Jorge + Fages, Pedro + Ferrelo, Bartolomé + Figueroa, Rodriga de + Fletcher, Francis + Galvez, José de + Gomez, Fray Francisco + Griffin, George Butler + Heceta, Bruno de + Jiminez (Fortun) + Laut, Agnes C. + Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de + Lummis, Chas. F. + Maldonado, Gabriel + Manrique, Miguel + Mendoza, Antonio de + Monterey, Conde de + Morgana, Juan de + Oliveros, José Ignacio + Ortega, José Francisco + Palou, Fray Francisco + Perez, Juan + Parron, Fray Fernando + Pino, Miguel del + Portolá, Gaspar de + Prat, Pedro + Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de + Salcedo, Felipe + Serra, Fray Junípero + Soberanes, José Maria + Vancouver, Captain George + Velasco, Luis de + Vila, Vicente + Vizcaino, Fray Juan + Vizcaino, Sebastian + Yorba, José Antonio + Zúñiga y Asevedo, Gaspar de +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + FOOTNOTES: + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ Sierra de Santa Lucia.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ Audiencia, the highest + judicial body.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ The system of encomienda + conferred feudal rights upon the discoverers. The Indians became vassals + of Spanish lords.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Vizcaino says he set out on + the discovery of the coast of the South Sea with two ships, a lancha, and + a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small vessel having no deck and but one + mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas calls the vessel a fragata. A + barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long open boat.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ The second voyage of + Vizcaino is of particular interest to Californians for the reason that the + names given by him to the various geographical features of the coast still + remain. The particulars of the first voyage are taken largely from the + publications of the Southern California Historical Society of documents in + the Sutro collection.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ Sutro Col. Pub. Southern + California Hist. Socy.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ Prof. George Davidson + identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River in 42° 25'.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ About Cape San Quintin, the + latitude of their northernmost mission.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ Instruccion qua ha de + observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro Pages, 5 enero de 1769. + Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish Archives of California.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ So-called from the cuera, + a leathern jacket worn by them as a defensive armor.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ Out West. March-July, + 1902.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ Pancakes.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ Dead Men's Point. The + name has disappeared from the modern maps, but is found on all of the old + ones. It is the foot of H street where the cars for the Coronado ferry + turn on to the wharf.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ I am well aware that this + claim will be disputed by one whose study of original documents and power + of analysis make him perhaps the greatest authority on early California + History; but I am nevertheless prepared to maintain my position.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ Carga, 275 lbs.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ Hence the presidial + soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so distinguished from soldiers + of the regular army.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ Diario Historico de los + viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte de la California. Ms. Original + in Sutro Library.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ The league is the Spanish + league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ They also gave it the + name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th, they had just observed.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ Sometimes called the + Grand Pardon of Assisi—the great indulgence of the Franciscans. + Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church of Our Lady of the + Angeles of Porciúncula, it was, by apostolic indult, expanded to accompany + the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is enough for him to erect + an altar and that altar will be to him St. Mary of the Angels, and he will + there find the Porciúncula of the revelations. Whoso confesses and + receives the sacrament in the church of Porciúncula is granted plenary + remission of his sins in this world and the next. This indulgence is only + for August 2nd—that is, from the afternoon of August 1st until + sunset of August 2nd.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ It is to this incident + that the city of Los Angeles owes its name. The full baptismal name of the + city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los Angeles—Our Lady the Queen of + the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by royal order, the second pueblo + established in California.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ Ranchería is the name + given to an Indian village or town.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ The Valley of the Bears.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ The diarists applied the + word cañada to either a cañon or an open valley.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ The word ensenada, much + used by the Spanish explorers, means a bight or open roadstead, not an + enclosed and protected bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ "Transportar en Xamus al + Modo que cominan las mujeres en Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la + Nueva California, ii. 181.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ The names given on this + portion of the route have all disappeared, but are here given as a + suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ The Fleas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-29" id="linknote-29"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#linknoteref-29">return</a>)<br /> [ It must be borne in mind + that what they called the Bay or Port of San Francisco was that stretch of + water reaching from Point Reyes to Point San Pedro and later known as the + Gulf of the Farallones.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-30" id="linknote-30"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#linknoteref-30">return</a>)<br /> [ Professor George Davidson + says that what was seen by Portolá from the Montara mountains was the + break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep narrow valley which runs straight + from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay, fourteen miles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-31" id="linknote-31"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#linknoteref-31">return</a>)<br /> [ The Golden Gate and Bay + of San Francisco.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-32" id="linknote-32"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#linknoteref-32">return</a>)<br /> [ The Bay of San Francisco + continued to be called the "Estero," until some time after Colonel Anza + established the presidio and mission of San Francisco in 1776.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-33" id="linknote-33"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#linknoteref-33">return</a>)<br /> [ The present name, Cañada + de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov. 30, 1714.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-34" id="linknote-34"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 34 (<a href="#linknoteref-34">return</a>)<br /> [ On November, 1774, Rivera + came up the peninsula on an exploring expedition and on the spot where he + had camped with the first expedition in 1769, he planted a cross to mark + the place for a mission. In March, 1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, + coming to select sites for the Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, + notes this cross on the bank of the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San + Francisquito creek), about one hundred paces above the great redwood tree, + and says the plan for a mission there was abandoned because the creek was + dry in summer. I note this explanation because an excellent authority has + located Portolá's camp on Redwood creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-35" id="linknote-35"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#linknoteref-35">return</a>)<br /> [ I give to Ortega the + credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the Straits of Carquinez. The + testimony seems sufficient to me.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-36" id="linknote-36"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 36 (<a href="#linknoteref-36">return</a>)<br /> [ Vizcaino to the King, May + 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern California, Vol. ii, Part 1.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-37" id="linknote-37"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 37 (<a href="#linknoteref-37">return</a>)<br /> [ On the day of the Holy + Innocents it was not possible to say mass. We are sorry for it, because it + is the only feast day in all the journey up to the present that we have + been without mass. We are stuck in a mud hole and are unable to move from + the place where we are all wet through, and it is not possible to make a + journada to a plain that is dry for this is bubbling up water—Crespi, + Diario.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-38" id="linknote-38"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 38 (<a href="#linknoteref-38">return</a>)<br /> [ Crespi: Diario.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-39" id="linknote-39"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 39 (<a href="#linknoteref-39">return</a>)<br /> [ Palou: Noticias de la + Nueva California.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-40" id="linknote-40"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 40 (<a href="#linknoteref-40">return</a>)<br /> [ Invernate—to + winter.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-41" id="linknote-41"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 41 (<a href="#linknoteref-41">return</a>)<br /> [ Manuel Orozco y Berra, + Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an Mexico, Anales del Ministerio + de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo VI, p. 269. Documents in the + Archives of the Indies, Seville.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-42" id="linknote-42"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 42 (<a href="#linknoteref-42">return</a>)<br /> [ This is a summary of the + document. A full translation would be too tedious for a work of this + kind.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-43" id="linknote-43"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 43 (<a href="#linknoteref-43">return</a>)<br /> [ On the Tres Marias + Islands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-44" id="linknote-44"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 44 (<a href="#linknoteref-44">return</a>)<br /> [ Don Pedro Fages. + Commandante of California, who had been recalled.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-45" id="linknote-45"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 45 (<a href="#linknoteref-45">return</a>)<br /> [ Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., + says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July 24th. That was to make the sailing + fit the Bancroft theories.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-46" id="linknote-46"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 46 (<a href="#linknoteref-46">return</a>)<br /> [ Braza—Fathom: Six + feet.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-47" id="linknote-47"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 47 (<a href="#linknoteref-47">return</a>)<br /> [ Ayala anchored inside + Port Point—the Presidio anchorage.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-48" id="linknote-48"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 48 (<a href="#linknoteref-48">return</a>)<br /> [ Richardson's Bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-49" id="linknote-49"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 49 (<a href="#linknoteref-49">return</a>)<br /> [ Angel Island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-50" id="linknote-50"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 50 (<a href="#linknoteref-50">return</a>)<br /> [ Alcatraz—Pelican] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-51" id="linknote-51"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 51 (<a href="#linknoteref-51">return</a>)<br /> [ The Southern portion of + the bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-52" id="linknote-52"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 52 (<a href="#linknoteref-52">return</a>)<br /> [ Pt. San Pedro.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-53" id="linknote-53"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 53 (<a href="#linknoteref-53">return</a>)<br /> [ That is: Pt. Almejas or + Pt. San Pedro.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-54" id="linknote-54"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 54 (<a href="#linknoteref-54">return</a>)<br /> [ Barranca: The dictionary + definition is a ravine or gulch, but it also means a high bluff or cliff + and in that sense is used by these explorers.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-55" id="linknote-55"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 55 (<a href="#linknoteref-55">return</a>)<br /> [ i. e.: from Pt. Almejas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-56" id="linknote-56"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 56 (<a href="#linknoteref-56">return</a>)<br /> [ Cliff Rouse Rocks.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-57" id="linknote-57"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 57 (<a href="#linknoteref-57">return</a>)<br /> [ Punta del Angel de la + Guarda—Point Lobos.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-58" id="linknote-58"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 58 (<a href="#linknoteref-58">return</a>)<br /> [ Seal Rocks.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-59" id="linknote-59"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 59 (<a href="#linknoteref-59">return</a>)<br /> [ Bakers Beach.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-60" id="linknote-60"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 60 (<a href="#linknoteref-60">return</a>)<br /> [ Lobos Creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-61" id="linknote-61"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 61 (<a href="#linknoteref-61">return</a>)<br /> [ i. e.: Inside of Point + San Jose—Fort Point.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-62" id="linknote-62"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 62 (<a href="#linknoteref-62">return</a>)<br /> [ Tamalpais] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-63" id="linknote-63"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 63 (<a href="#linknoteref-63">return</a>)<br /> [ Point Bonita. The present + name was given it in 1776.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-64" id="linknote-64"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 64 (<a href="#linknoteref-64">return</a>)<br /> [ Golden Gate Strait.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-65" id="linknote-65"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 65 (<a href="#linknoteref-65">return</a>)<br /> [ i. e.: The outer harbor; + outside of the Golden Gate.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-66" id="linknote-66"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 66 (<a href="#linknoteref-66">return</a>)<br /> [ Lime Point.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-67" id="linknote-67"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 67 (<a href="#linknoteref-67">return</a>)<br /> [ Angel Island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-68" id="linknote-68"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 68 (<a href="#linknoteref-68">return</a>)<br /> [ The Presidio anchorage.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-69" id="linknote-69"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 69 (<a href="#linknoteref-69">return</a>)<br /> [ This is the body of water + between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt. Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. + The high farallon is Red Rock.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-70" id="linknote-70"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 70 (<a href="#linknoteref-70">return</a>)<br /> [ The rocks are The Sisters + and The Brothers.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-71" id="linknote-71"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 71 (<a href="#linknoteref-71">return</a>)<br /> [ San Pablo Bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-72" id="linknote-72"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 72 (<a href="#linknoteref-72">return</a>)<br /> [ Napa Slough. The marsh + was evidently under water, and island number one, with Mare Island, made + one long island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-73" id="linknote-73"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 73 (<a href="#linknoteref-73">return</a>)<br /> [ Codo—1 1/2 feet.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-74" id="linknote-74"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 74 (<a href="#linknoteref-74">return</a>)<br /> [ Mare Island. The division + of the hills or cañon is Carquines Strait.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-75" id="linknote-75"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 75 (<a href="#linknoteref-75">return</a>)<br /> [ Carquines Straits.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-76" id="linknote-76"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 76 (<a href="#linknoteref-76">return</a>)<br /> [ The Assumption of the + Virgin—August 15th. It is Southampton bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-77" id="linknote-77"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 77 (<a href="#linknoteref-77">return</a>)<br /> [ That is, from Puerto de + la Asumpta.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-78" id="linknote-78"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 78 (<a href="#linknoteref-78">return</a>)<br /> [ Suisun Bay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-79" id="linknote-79"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 79 (<a href="#linknoteref-79">return</a>)<br /> [ The Sacramento and San + Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto Dulce—Freshwater Port.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-80" id="linknote-80"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 80 (<a href="#linknoteref-80">return</a>)<br /> [ Yerba Buena or Goat + Island. Cañizaries marked it on the map (c) for isla do Alcatraces, but + that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of the entry in the Log + under date of August 12, with the map will show.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-81" id="linknote-81"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 81 (<a href="#linknoteref-81">return</a>)<br /> [ Oakland and Berkeley tide + flats.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-82" id="linknote-82"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 82 (<a href="#linknoteref-82">return</a>)<br /> [ Islais creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-83" id="linknote-83"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 83 (<a href="#linknoteref-83">return</a>)<br /> [ Yerba Buena cove and + Mission bay.] + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portolá, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The March of Portola + and, The Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents + Translated and Annotated + +Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +Posting Date: March 20, 2009 [EBook #4978] +Release Date: January, 2004 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLA *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan + + + + + + + +THE MARCH OF PORTOLA AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + + +By Zoeth S. Eldredge + + + + + +Log of the San Carlos and Original Documents Translated and Annotated + + +By E. J. Molera + + + +Published by the Reception Committee of The California Promotion +Committee + + + +This Book is published with the approval and endorsement of the +Executive Committee of the Portola Festival. + + + +The March of Portola + +and + +The Log of the San Carlos + + + + San Francisco + + + "Serene, indifferent of fate, + Thou sittest at the Western Gate; + + Upon thy heights so lately won, + Still slant the banners of the sun; + + Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, + O warder of two continents, + + And scornful of the peace that flies, + Thy angry winds and sullen skies, + + Thou drawest all things, small or great, + To thee beside the Western Gate." + + + +Table of Contents + + + Introduction + The March of Portola and Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + Data regarding Portola after he left California + Letter of the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga + Causes that led to the Expedition of the San Carlos + Log of the San Carlos + Report of the Commander of the San Carlos + Description of the Bay of San Francisco + Report of the Pilot of the San Carlos + + + +Illustrations + + The March to Monterey (Frontispiece) + Carrying the Sick + Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + Departure of the San Carlos from La Paz + Facsimile of signature of Governor Portola + First Survey and Map of the Bay of San Francisco + + + + +Introduction + +In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives +of heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record +of Spanish exploration in America. To those of us who have come into +possession of the fair land opened up by them, the story of their +travels and adventures have the most profound interest. The account +of the expedition of Portola has never been properly presented. Many +writers have touched on it, and H. H. Bancroft, in his History of +California, gives a brief digest of Crespi's diary. Most writers on +California history have drawn on Palou's Vida del V. P. F. Junipero +Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and without looking further, +have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We have endeavored in +this sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the conditions which +preceded and led up to the occupation of California. + +The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific +was early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but +small respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World +between Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated +expeditions into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two +ships to look in Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea, +one of which bore the significant name of California. The voyage of +Francis Drake, 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay +he proclaimed the sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New +Albion. Two hundred years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver +explored the coast of California down to thirty degrees of north +latitude (Ensenada de Todos Santos), which, he says, "is the +southernmost limit of New Albion, as discovered by Sir Francis Drake, +or New California, as the Spaniards frequently call it." Even after +the occupation and settlement by the Spaniards, so feeble were their +establishments that, as Vancouver reports to the Admiralty, it +would take but a small force to wrest from Spain this most valuable +possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain presaged the time +when her hold upon America would be loosened, the standard of individual +heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of Portola and of Anza +rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The California explorer did +not, it is true, have to fight his way through hordes of fierce natives. +The California Indians, as a rule, received the white adventurers +gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as they had to offer, +but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were but a poor lot. +In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea swarming with fish, +a soil capable of growing every character of foodstuff, these miserable +natives lived in a chronic state of starvation. + +As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portola upholds +the best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon +the character of the leader. Panfilo de Narvaez landed on the coast of +Florida in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men +and forty horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the +previous June, and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida, +only four lived to reach civilization--the rest perished. That is +but one example of incompetent leadership. When Portola organized his +expedition for the march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his +soldiers were ill from scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick +list numbered nineteen men, including the governor and Rivera, his chief +officer. Sixteen men had to be carried, and to three, in extremis, the +viaticum was administered; but he brought them all through, and returned +to San Diego without the loss of a man. + +There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and +the other by Alferez Costanso. There is, besides, a diary of Junipero +Serra of the march from Velicata to San Diego Bay, a translation of +which is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902. +It is of small value to the student of history. There is a diary by +Portola, quoted by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by +Bancroft. These we have not seen. There are letters from Francisco +Palou, Juan Crespi and Miguel Costanso, printed in Out West for January +1902. The diary of Father Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la +Nueva California. Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San +Francisco, 1874. The diary of Miguel Costanso is in the Sutro library. +It has never been printed. It is prefaced by an historical narrative, a +poor translation of which was published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, +and a better one by Chas. F. Lummis in Out West, June-July, 1901. In +Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California, Vol. II, +Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of documents of the Sutro collection +are printed, with translations by George Butler Griffin. These relate to +the explorations of the California coast by ships from the Philippines, +the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some letters of Junipero Serra, and +diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to the northern coast in 1774. + +The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original +documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful +survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by +the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions +and language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted +are Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva +California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C. +Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties +of Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The +Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on +the Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of +the Geographical Society of the Pacific. + +In view of the forthcoming Portola Festival, The California Promotion +Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its +members to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement +of California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life +and character of Portola, the committee has been enabled, through the +efforts of one of its members, to have careful search made among the +archives of Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of +Mexico, and of Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet, +concerning Portola, we have received other documents of the utmost +importance to the history of San Francisco: a chronicle of the events +following the discovery of the Bay. + +By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the +northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the +year 1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the +commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos, +under Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. +To Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San +Francisco, while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north. +Bodega discovered the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his +name as it is usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft +(History of California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his +short and incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate +that neither map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is +with pleasure we are permitted to present to the public these important +documents, now printed for the first time, and only regret that the +shortness of time allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later +some minor corrections. + +We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don Jose +Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San +Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan +Manuel de Ayala. + +Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He +entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made +Alferez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alferez de Navio, June 15, 1769; +Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776; +and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782. + +When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala +was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz +in August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by +Viceroy Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner +Sonora. The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the +commander of the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad. +Ayala was ordered to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to +San Blas with the unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days +later. + +In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New +Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and +until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In +August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the +San Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to +Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal +order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of +his services to California. He died December 30, 1797. + + Zoeth S. Eldredge, + E. J. Molera, + Charles H. Crocker, + + San Francisco, August, 1909.--Committee. + + + + + +THE MARCH OF PORTOLA AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO + +By Zoeth S. Eldredge + + +The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement +of California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to +save the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of +a monarch solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political +exigencies of the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil +governors sink into insignificance and become mere executives of the +priestly will, while the heroic efforts of Junipero Serra to convert the +natives, his courage in the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his +unwearied devotion, make him the impelling factor in the colonization of +California. + +Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into +California strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of +Fray Francisco Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junipero, +that all historians turn for the account of the occupation. Fray +Palou details the glorious life of the leader with whom he toiled; he +eulogizes the worthy priest, the ardent missionary, as he passed up and +down the length of the land, founding missions, planting the vine, the +olive, and the fruit tree in a land whose inhabitants had often +suffered from hunger; giving aid and comfort to the sick and weary +and consolation to the dying. Indeed, the pictures of the padres are +fascinating. The infant establishments planted by the church grew rich +and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the administration of the +priests and so generous their hospitality, that life in California in +the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost dolce far +niente existence. + +Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junipero drawn by Palou, the +careful investigator will find that the impelling factor in the +occupation of California was stern military necessity, not missionary +zeal. From the time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the +Pacific up to forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery, +but more than two hundred years had passed and she had done nothing +towards making good this right by settlement. The country was open to +colonization by any nation strong enough to maintain and protect its +colonies. + +Before relating the story of Portola's march, let us consider for a +moment the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other +European nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it +necessary to occupy the country. + +When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent +his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his +grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable +route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from +Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones, +thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward, +following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made +a landfall on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape +Mendocino. A sail of two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of +California and New Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco. +This route was charted by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for +nearly three centuries was the one followed by the galleons of Spain +sailing from Manila to Acapulco. The voyage across the Pacific was a +long one and ships in distress were obliged to put about and make for +Japan. A harbor on the coast of California in which ships could find +shelter and repair damages was greatly desired. A survey of the unknown +coasts of the South Sea, as it was called, was ordered, and it was also +suggested that the explorations be extended beyond the forty-second +degree of north latitude, it being held that the coast was a part of +the same continent as that of China, or only separated therefrom by +the narrow strait of Anian, which was believed to open in latitude +forty-two. + +Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California +was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by +his chief pilot, Bartolome Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as +far north as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the +entrance to the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible +storms in San Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died. +Ferrelo took command and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in +honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. + +On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden +Hinde, took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's +Bay. He took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, +and named it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain +Fletcher writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have +some affinity with our own country." It was in this place and at this +time that the first English service was held in America, by Master +Francis Fletcher, chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in +Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, commemorates the event. + +Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship, +supplied himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the +Southeast Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the +25th sailed across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good +Hope. + +In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was +directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather +would permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land +and the harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all +that he accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he +accomplished anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude +37 deg. 30' (Pillar Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that +the mountains[1] were without snow, and that there were many indications +of rivers, bays, and havens along the coast. + +In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermenon, a Portuguese sailor in the service +of Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of +Gali. In an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San +Agustin. It is supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was +beached in Drake's Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a +boat, called a viroco, and in this the ship's company of more than +seventy persons continued the homeward voyage. The little vessel reached +Puerto de Navidad in safety, and here the commander and part of the +company left it in charge of the pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of +ten men, who brought it into Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; +a most remarkable voyage of nearly twenty-five hundred miles by +shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded into an open boat. With the +loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the California coast by laden +ships from the Philippines came to an end. + +Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis +de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to +the exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of +the land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at +the expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and +trade, together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually +given to the pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for +the expedition were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader +and his partners in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the +courts. Before a decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge +ordered the other partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to +begin the voyage to the Californias within three months. Under this +order, Vizcaino applied to Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission +to make the journey. This was the condition of affairs when, on October +5, 1596, Velasco was relieved and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zuniga y +Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took command. At Velasco's request, Zuniga +made a careful examination of all matters pertaining to the expedition +to the Californias, and the result was not favorable to Vizcaino. The +new viceroy did not think that an enterprise which might involve results +of such vast importance should be entrusted to the leadership of a +person of such obscure position and limited capital. He also doubted +if Vizcaino had the resolution and capacity necessary for so great an +undertaking, and it appeared to him that if disorders should arise among +his men through lack of discipline, or if the natives of the country to +which he was going should repel him, the repute and royal authority of +the king would be in danger. On the other hand, there was the decision +of the court, the concession of the viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino +had already been at expense in the matter. Zuniga communicated his +doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his perplexity, submitted the +question to a theologian and a jurist, selected as the viceroy writes, +from the number of those whose opinions were entitled to the greatest +consideration. Their decision was that the concession of the viceroy had +the force of an agreement and contract; that what was at first a +favor had become a right, and that, as the captain had manifested no +incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact could not be +varied. The audiencia[2], before whom Zuniga also laid the matter, was +of like opinion. In view, therefore, of the length to which the affair +had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul the contract but to do all +in his power to insure the success of the expedition. That Vizcaino's +soldiers might respect and esteem him, the viceroy clothed him with +authority and showed him the greatest honor. He required Vizcaino to +furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories of the ships and +lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails and tackle, the +number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, ammunition, and all +other property, and he instructed the royal officers at Acapulco that +the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was fully provided +with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of the people. +The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zuniga's report, ordered him +to cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for the +expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino +had sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six +hundred tons; the San Jose, a smaller ship, under command of Captain +Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in +March, 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast +of Colima, where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this +point the watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that +Vizcaino complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the +conduct of his soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape +Corrientes, thence northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan. +From Mazatlan he bore west-northwest across the Gulf of California and +landed in a large bay which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as +the Bay of Cerralbo. From here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named +because of the peaceful character of the Indians, who received him +hospitably with presents of fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is +supposed, the place where Jimenez, the discoverer of California, lost +his life in 1533, and where Cortez planted his ill-fated colony two +years later. In entering the bay, the flagship ran on a shoal, and +they were obliged to cut away her masts and lighten her of her cargo of +provisions, a great part of which was wet and lost. Here Vizcaino landed +and built a stockade fort, and leaving the dismantled flagship and the +married men of his company under command of his lieutenant, Figueroa, he +sailed on October 3rd, with the San Jose and the lancha and eighty men +to explore the gulf. He encountered severe storms which separated his +vessels, and not having proper discipline among his men, had trouble +with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen men were lost by +the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back to La Paz, where +his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their comrades, +demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions was +running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the +lancha, he sent them back, and with the San Jose and forty of the +more adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the +headwaters of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong +north winds, and only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then +yielding to the demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles +of Mazatlan. + +The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, +but he made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land +double the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its +seas abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds, +in quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea; +while in the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the +northwest, were people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and +silver ornaments, cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the +country (turkeys), and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told +him--not only in one place but in many. He desired permission to +make another voyage, and as the late expedition had exhausted his own +resources, asked that he be granted thirty-five thousand dollars from +the royal treasury and outfitting for his ships. These advances he +agreed to repay from the first gain received by him during the voyage. +He also asked, on behalf of those who accompanied him, that the +countries brought by him into subjection to the crown be given to them +encomienda for five lives[3]; that they be made gentlemen and granted +all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that other gentlemen enjoy, +not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in Spain. For these +and for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with five ships, +equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, arms and +ammunition, provisions, etc.--all things necessary for the voyage. +He would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones and +valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish taken, +and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make +discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take +possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements, +build forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one +hundred leagues. + +Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as +he had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council +decided that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zuniga +favored Don Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council +ordered that Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all +necessary funds; it granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, +and that the discoverers should have all the privileges of gentlemen +throughout the Indies. It also granted other minor privileges and boons +asked for. Vizcaino was made captain-general of the expedition, and +sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, with orders to explore the coasts of +the Californias from Cape San Lucas to Cape Mendocino, or as far north +as latitude forty-two. His ships were the San Diego, flagship, the Santo +Tomas, under Toribio Gomez de Corvan, the Tres Reyes, a small fragata +or tender, under Alferez Martin Aguilar, and a barcolongo for exploring +rivers and bays[4]. The chief pilot of the expedition was Francisco +Bolanos who had been one of the pilots with Cermenon on the lost San +Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites looked after the spiritual needs +of the adventurers. The story of this second voyage of Vizcaino is well +known. On the 10th of November, they were in the Bay of San Diego, which +Vizcaino named for San Diego de Alcala, whose day, November 14th, they +spent in the bay, ignoring the name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo +sixty years before. Later in the month he entered and named San Pedro +bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, +it was. He also named the islands still known as Santa Catalina and San +Clemente. He next sailed through and named the Canal de Santa Barbara, +which saint's day, December 4th, was observed while in the channel, and +also named Isla de Santa Barbara and Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta +de la Concepcion, which he named[5], Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a +thick fog, which lifting on December 14th, revealed to the voyagers +the lofty coast range usually sighted by the ships coming from the +Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a river flowing from high +hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To the mountains he gave +the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of the Saint whose day +(December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the stream he named Rio +del Carmelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. Rounding a high wooded +point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he dropped anchor in Monterey +bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found the much desired harbor of +refuge, and he named it for his patron, the Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino +made the most of his discovery, and in a letter to the king, written in +Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602[6], he gives a most glowing description +of the bay, which is, at best, but an open roadstead. The Indians, as +usual, told him of large cities in the interior, which they invited him +to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. His provisions were almost gone, +his men were sick with scurvy, of which many had died, and putting the +most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he sent her to Acapulco for +aid, and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the flagship and fragata, for +the north. A storm soon separated the vessels and they did not see each +other again until they met in the harbor of Acapulco. Vizcaino was told +by the pilot, Bolanos, that Cermenon had left in Drake's Bay a large +quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he entered the bay on +January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or cargo. He did not +land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did not appear, +he became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of her. On the +13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. This +was followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in +latitude forty-two--the limit of his instructions--with Cape Blanco in +sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, "towards +Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six of his +men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, +where he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him, +forty-two had died. + +In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied +and provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He +directed that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition. +His orders were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan, +whence he returned in 1613, and died three years later. + +For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the +pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued +to make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail +down the coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge +was established and no attempt was made to colonize the country. + +At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his +possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection. +Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had +crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska, +and their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into +more southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was +ready to turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The +Family Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had +aroused the ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved +to demand an explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack +her at home and abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was +time for humbling the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet +caused Pitt's resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power +with vigor and arrogance unabated. + +On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree +expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had +established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de +Portola, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed +governor of the Californias and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five +dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to +dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the +Franciscans. + +The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the +northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take +effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger +of invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a +person of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out +so great an undertaking, Don Jose de Galvez, visitador-general of the +kingdom and member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services +and volunteered to go to Lower California and effect the organization +and equipment of the expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and +Galvez set out from the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on +the coast of New Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken +by a courier from the viceroy bringing orders just received from the +court directing that a maritime expedition should be at once dispatched +to Monterey and that port fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas +on the 16th of May, 1768, the senor visitador laid before them the +situation and the wishes of the king. He stated that on the exterior or +occidental coasts of the Californias, Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas +on the south to the Rio de los Reyes[7] in 43 degrees, though the only +portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up to 30 deg. 30'.[8] The civilized +or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon--people of reason) +did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, including the +families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those of the +miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to establish +themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, they might +fortify themselves there before the government could receive notice +of it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New Spain +there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built in +San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small +tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications +between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted +all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign +invasion. All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present +the commandant of the department and the army officers and pilots who +chanced to be there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the +San Carlos and San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships, +while Galvez proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of +supplies and provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid +under contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions +to be established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule +herd; for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition +by one by land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long +sea-voyage should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don +Gaspar de Portola, volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named +commander-in-chief. Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the +presidio of Loreto, was appointed second in command. The troops were +composed of forty cavalrymen from the presidio of Loreto in Lower +California, under Rivera, and twenty-five infantrymen of the compania +franca of Catalonia, under Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial +troops were joined thirty Christian Indians from the missions, armed +with bows and arrows. These were intended for the land expedition. The +mission of Santa Maria, the northernmost mission on the peninsula, was +the rendezvous of the land forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded +with provisions for the land expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay +of San Luis Gonzaga, the nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria, +whither also went by land the troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the +herd of every sort. Finding insufficient pasturage for the cattle at +Santa Maria, they advanced to Velicata, some thirty miles distant, and +here was assembled the land expedition. In addition to the officers +named, Don Miguel Costanso, ensign of royal engineers, was ordered to +join the expedition as cosmographer and diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was +appointed physician. To minister to the soldiers and take charge of the +missions to be established in the new land, the following missionary +priests, all of the college of San Fernando in Mexico, were named to +accompany the expedition. Fray Junipero Serra, appointed president of +the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, Fray Fernando Parron, +Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez. + +On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was +loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junipero Serra sang mass +aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and +the standards. The visitador named the Senor San Jose patron of the +expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those +about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans +of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alferez +Miguel Costanso, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The +ship was commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy; +the mate was Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two +boys, four cooks, and two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's +company--sixty-two in all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and +sailed on the 10th. Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas--chief of +the military expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of +the soldiers on land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey[9]. +On the 15th of February, Father Junipero performed like offices for +the San Antonio, and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan +Perez, "of the navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino +and Gomez, some carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the +sailors, made some ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The +rendezvous was San Diego bay, where all were to meet. + +The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division, +under Rivera, started from Velicata March 24th, and the second, under +command of the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre +Crespi, Pilotin (Mate) Jose Canizares. Twenty-five soldados de +cuera[10], three muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians--forty-two men. +With the governor marched Junipero Serra, fifteen soldados de cuera, +under Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers and +Indians--forty-four in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being Easter +Sunday, Junipero established the Mission of San Fernando with Fray +Miguel de la Campa as Minister. For the succor and relief of the forces, +both sea and land, Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he named in +honor of the protector of the expedition, the San Jose, and loading +her with supplies and provisions, sent her with orders to meet the +expedition at Monterey. She was lost at sea. + +There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles +through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junipero's diary lies +before me[11]; it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, +the Indians they met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, +etc.; no course, no distances traveled, or other like information +necessary to an understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he +is not to be compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight +of the sea at the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was +by the sea until they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San +Diego, their Indian allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the +Dieguenos, whom they began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally +lot. They thronged the camp and became a perfect nuisance with their +begging and stealing. They begged from Junipero his robe and from the +governor his cuera, waistcoat, breeches, and all he had on. One of them +succeeding in inducing Junipero to take off his spectacles to show +them to him and as soon as he got them in his hands made off with them, +causing the priest a thousand difficulties to recover them. On the 27th +of June Sergeant Ortega, with his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and +announced to the anxious camp the proximity of the governor. Rivera sent +ten of his soldiers with fresh horses back with Ortega, and Portola, +in advance of his command, reached the camp June 29th, and the entire +division arrived, June 30th, in good order and condition, forty-six days +from Velicata. + +Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other +divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the +placid waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more +formidable than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when +on the 11th of April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and +dropped her anchor not far from the point where now the ferry boat for +Coronado leaves the slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at +the rendezvous. No attempt was made to land, for they were alone and +dread scurvy had them in its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's +company were sick. On the 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La +Paz, with her company in even worse condition. All were sick, some had +died, and only four sailors remained on their feet, aided in working the +ship by such of the soldiers as were able to help. She had been driven +far out of her course; had found herself short of water, and had to +put into the island of Cedros to supply herself, and it was with the +greatest difficulty she reached the bay of San Diego. The first thing +to be done was to find good water and to minister to the sick. For this +purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro Fages, Don Miguel Costanso, +and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five men-soldiers, sailors, etc., +all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding up the shore, found, by +direction of some Indians, a river of good mountain water at a distance +of three leagues to the northeast. Moving their ships as near as they +could, they prepared on the beach a camp, which they surrounded with a +parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted two cannon. Within they made +two large hospital tents from the sails and awnings of the ships, and +set up the tents of the officers and priests. Then they transferred the +sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, and the list of those +able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The difficulties of their +situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines and food had been +consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the surgeon, +himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand anxieties +some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as the +others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun burned +them by day--alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, two or +three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which had +been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight +soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of +the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the +care of the sick. + +There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of +the fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none +were discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At +length, on the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on +the beach that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and +armed as they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera, +fifty days from Velicata, without the loss of a man or having a sick +one; but they were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour +left and were issuing two tortillas[12] per day to each man. Great +was the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's +force. It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This +was done, and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known +as "Old Town," where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. +The surgeon, Pedro Prat, devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths +continued, until of the ninety and more who had sailed from La Paz, +two-thirds were laid under the sand of Punta de los Muertos[13]. It was +now thought best to send one of the packets to San Blas to inform the +viceroy and the visitador of the state of the expedition, and it was +feared that if this were longer delayed, the ship would be unable to +put to sea for lack of mariners. The San Antonio was selected for this +purpose, and was prepared for sea, but as she was about to sail, the +camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by the arrival of Portola and +the second division, sound in body, and with 163 mules laden with +provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of the condition of +affairs, and desirous that the senor visitador's orders concerning the +sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain Vila of the San +Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that he might +pursue the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's officers, +boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was not a +sailor among the men offered by Portola, he declined to go to sea under +such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on +board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight +men only for a crew. + +The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to +Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season +should expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra +closed by snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the +sierras covered with snow on their arrival in April. + +On the 14th of July, Portola began his march to Monterey, distant one +hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega, +with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan +volunteers--all that could travel, Ensign Costanso, the priests, Crespi +and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the missions +of Lower California, and two servants--sixty-four in all. Both Fages and +Costanso were sick with scurvy, but joined the command notwithstanding. +The personnel of this expedition contains some of the best known names +in California. Portola, the first governor; Rivera, comandante of +California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on the Colorado +in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773, governor, +1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the Golden Gate +and of Carquines Strait[14]; lieutenant and brevet captain, comandante +of the presidio of San Diego, of Santa Barbara, and of Monterey; +founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara and of the missions of San Juan +Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the rank and file were men whose +names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who gave his name to Amador +county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of Governor Alvarado; Jose +Raimundo Carrillo, later alferez, lieutenant, and captain, comandante +of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and of San Diego, and +founder of the great Carrillo family; Jose Antonio Yorba, sergeant of +Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that name and grantee of +the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota, Jose Ignacio Oliveras, +Jose Maria Soberanes, and others. + +At San Diego, Portola left the sick under the care of the faithful +surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the +San Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junipero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and +Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California +Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them +a sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads[15] of +provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portola expedition started, +Junipero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San Diego +de Alcala, the first mission established in Alta California. The deaths +continued, and before Portola's return in January, eight soldiers, four +sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about twenty +persons at the camp. + +We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship, +San Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have +seen, was lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San +Antonio, the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, +took with him one hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he +concluded, to last him for six months. + +On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with +six or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected +the camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was +frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante, +with Fages, Costanso, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia +volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with +spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers; +these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of +pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers. +The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the +spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada). + +The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive +and defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) +and the adarga (shield)[16]. The first, being made in the form of a coat +without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses of dressed +deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very short range. +The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on the left +arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his horse +against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used a +species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with +a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to +cover the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding +through the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms +were the lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback, +the broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costanso, who was +an officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor +of the presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they +were men capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and +active; "and it is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen +in the world, and among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the +service of the king."[17] + +It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train +through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones. +It was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next, +and the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be +traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be +had. The distance made was from two to four leagues[18], and the command +rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue caused by +the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the wandering off +of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costanso says that one +of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their caballada +(horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a country +they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most +incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover +a coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any +of these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many +leagues, precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without +any human effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense +toil to gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled, +remain of no service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the +Spaniards made their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more +fertile and pleasing as they progressed northward. + +The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became +the Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the +pretty valley where later was established the mission of San Luis +Rey. They called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards +transferred to a mission forty miles north of this place. The command +rested here, July 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San +Onofre), whose base they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it +seemed to threaten their advance, but by keeping close to the shore, +they held their way, and on the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of +water running through a mesa at the foot of a sierra, whence looking +across the sea, they could descry Santa Catalina Island. This was San +Juan Capistrano, and here they rested on the 25th. On the 28th they +reached the Santa Ana river, near the present town of that name; a +violent shock of earthquake which they experienced caused them to name +the river Jesus de los Temblores[19]. July 30th and 31st they were in +the San Gabriel valley, which they called San Miguel, and on August 1st +they rested near the site of the present city of Los Angeles. The +stop this day, in addition to the needed rest and the necessity for +exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers and people of the +expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciuncula.[20] The priests +said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon the +soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with which +the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles +river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra +Senora de Los Angeles de Porciuncula[21]. Passing up the river, they +went through the canon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they +called Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos--Valley of St. Catherine +of the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa +Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo canon, they came to the Santa +Clara river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th. +Portola named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor +of the saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days, +by easy jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th +at the first rancheria[22] of the Channel Indians. It being the vespers +of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Senora, Portola named the village +La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed houses +of clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. These +Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and very +skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles. +Portola thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de +Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission +of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them +kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made +boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with +cords and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each. +The next four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th, +at a large laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was +the site of the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere +were large populous rancherias of the Indians, and everywhere they were +received in the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than +they could eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of +a large lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was +a large rancheria, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon. +Portola gave to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherias +de Mescaltitan--The Contiguous Rancherias of Mescaltitan. The name of +Mescaltitan is still attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly +drained and contains some of the finest walnut groves in California. On +the 28th, they turned Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place +called by them Paraje de los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five +miles beyond, preserves the name. On the 30th they crossed a large +river, which they named the Santa Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose +day it was. This is now the Santa Inez, so called from the mission of +that name, established on its bank in 1804. Passing northward along the +beach, a sharp spur of the sierra jutting out at Point Sal turned them +inland through the little pass followed by the Southern Pacific Coast +Line, and they came, on September 10th, to a large lake in the northwest +corner of Santa Barbara county, to which was given the name of Laguna +Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. Three leagues beyond, they camped at +a lake named by Costanso, Laguna Redonda, but which the soldiers called +El Oso Flaco--The Thin Bear--and it is still known by that name. Here +Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and ten of the soldiers complained of +sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on the 4th reached the mouth of +the San Luis canon. Here they were hospitably received by the chief of +a large rancheria, whose appearance caused the soldiers to apply to him +the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor hanging from his neck. +Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the soldiers applied +to the chief, his rancheria, and to the canon leading up to San Luis +Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many cases the +good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint has +been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount +Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying +qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow canon +of San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and +city of San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the +Sierra de Santa Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley, +whence the march to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the +west and followed the Canada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which +they called El Estero de San Serafin. The Canada de los Osos[23], still +so called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears, +one of which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls. +Another wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their +lives. + +The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came +to a point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars, +blocks the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three +thousand feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portola +sent out the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the +mountains. During the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way +into the sierra through San Carpoforo canon, and on the 16th the command +moved up the steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on +either side. It is impossible to follow their route through this rugged +mountain range with any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and +painful. On the 20th, they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the +north, and from its summit the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea +of mountains, "presenting," writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor +travelers worn out with the fatigue of the journey." The cold was +beginning to be severe, and many of the men were suffering from scurvy +and unfit for service, which increased the hardship for all; yet they +did not falter but pressed bravely on, and on the 26th emerged from +the mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they named the Canada del Palo +Caido[24] (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and camped on the Salinas river, +which they christened Rio de San Elizario. From now on the march is an +easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea. + +On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the +Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see +it. They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of +Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably +that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the +voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno. +The governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part +of the coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers, +explored the coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the +very port they were seeking, while Portola, with Costanso, Crespi, and +five soldiers, climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada, +the northern point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore +northwest at a distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south +a hill ran out into the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be +wooded with pines. They recognized the one on the north as the Punta de +Ano Nuevo and that on the south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two +lay the great ensenada[25], with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid +down in the coast pilot (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the +famous port of Monterey? + +They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit +they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was +continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between +it and another point to the south (Point Carmelo) was a small ensenada, +where a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into +an estero; that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they +were obliged to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra +which compelled them to leave the coast on the 16th of September. + +Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of +officers to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday, +October 4th, the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid +the matter before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of +provisions, the seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the +excessive burden of labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care +of the animals, and continual explorations, and to the lateness of the +season. In view of these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of +Monterey could not be found where it was said to be, each person present +was called upon to express freely his opinion. + +Costanso spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37 deg.; they had only +reached 36 deg. 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37 deg. 30', so as +either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for +going up to 37 deg. or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish +themselves somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go +forward and put his trust in God. If they found the desired port of +Monterey and therein the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If +Monterey did not appear, they would find a place for a settlement; but +if it should be the will of God that all were to perish, they would have +discharged their duty to God and man in laboring until death in their +endeavor to accomplish the enterprise on which they had been sent. To +this decision all agreed, and signed their names to the compact. + +Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and +locate camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of +October, the march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of +their limbs. Each night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they +were put into hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried +in the mode of travel used by the women of Andalusia[26]. The march +was slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last +extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to +three, who were thought to be dying. + +On this day they crossed the Rio del Pajaro, which they named because +of a great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which +measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of +the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were +preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the +approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on +hand, gave the river the name La Senora Santa Ana, but again the saint +was ignored, and the river is known as the Pajaro (Bird). On the 17th +they crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the +present city of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Ano +Nuevo, and camped at the entrance of the canon of Waddell creek. They +recognized Point Ano Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno, +and Crespi estimated that it was one league distant from the camp. With +good water and fuel, the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both +Portola and Rivera were now added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables +had given out and the rations were reduced to five tortillas of bran +and flour per day. Crespi named the camp San Luis Beltran, while the +soldiers called it La Canada de Salud. On the 23d, they again moved +forward, passing Punta de Ano Nuevo and, traveling two leagues, camped +probably on Gazos creek, where was a large Indian rancheria, whose +inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which was about opposite +Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan Nepomuceno[27]. The +next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San +Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an +epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw +their end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea +seemed to relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers +began to be less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de +los Cursos, and Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable +to travel on the 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th, +they pressed forward. The next stop was Purisima creek, two short +leagues distant, but the way was rough, and the pioneers had to make +roads across three arroyos where the descents were steep and difficult +for the transportation of the invalids. On the bank of the stream was an +Indian rancheria, apparently deserted. The Spaniards took possession +of the huts, but soon came running forth with cries of "las pulgas! las +pulgas![28]" They preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called +the camp Rancheria de las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the +28th they camped on Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon +Bay. They named the camp El Llano de los Ansares--The Plain of the Wild +Geese--and Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the +command was ill; the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food +very short. They contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it +rained heavily and Portola, who was very ill, decided to rest on the +29th. On Monday, October 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and +Pillar Point were noted but no names given. Several deep arroyos were +crossed, some of which required the building of bridges to get the +animals over. They proceeded up the shore until a barrier of rock +confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in a rincon (corner) +formed by the sierra and sheltered from the north wind they camped +while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over the +Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they +named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and +other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta +del Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the +Montara fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers +had prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and +at ten o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the +exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous +sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them, +bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing +in the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea, +rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left, +west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally +along the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what +appeared to be the mouth of an inlet. There could be no mistake. The +distant point was the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahia o +Puerto de San Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in +their hearts they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the +San Pedro valley[29] at the foot of the Montara mountains. + +Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind +but would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To +settle the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine +the country as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to +report, while the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta +de las Almejas del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the +two names of the camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp +in San Pedro valley. + +The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass +some of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They +climbed the mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall +reported that they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense +estero or arm of the sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as +the eye could reach, stretching to the southeast; that they had seen +some beautiful plains thickly covered with trees, while the many columns +of smoke rising over them showed that they were well stocked with Indian +villages. This story confirmed them in the belief that they were at the +Port of San Francisco, and that the estero described was that spoken of +by Cabrera Bueno, the mouth of which they imagined they had seen from +the Montara mountains[30]. They were now satisfied that Ortega would be +unable to reach Point Reyes, and that three days was not sufficient time +to go around the head of such an estero. The exploring party returned +in the night of November 3d, discharging their fire-arms as they +approached. They reported that they found themselves obstructed by +immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily far back into the land[31], +but what caused their rejoicing was that they understood from the signs +of the Indians that at two days journey from where they were there was +a port in which a ship was anchored. On this announcement, some thought +that they were at the port of Monterey, and that the supply ship San +Jose or the San Carlos was waiting for them. Crespi says that if they +were not in Monterey, they were certainly in San Francisco. + +On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in +whose honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in +the Port of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que +Dios guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this +little valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father +San Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded +on the nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, +in better spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their +march at one o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up +the beach, they turned into the mountains on their right, and from the +summit beheld the immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into +the Canada de San Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and +traveling two leagues camped in the canada at the foot of a hill, very +green with low brush, and having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next +two days they traveled down the canada, coasting the estero, which they +could not see for the low hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the +pleasant land with its groves of oak, redwood (palo colorado), and +madrono. They saw the tracks of many deer and also of bears. The Indians +met them with friendly offers of black tamales and atole, which were +gladly received by the half-starved Spaniards. They begged the strangers +to go to their rancherias, but the governor excused himself, saying +that he must go forward, and dismissed them with presents of beads and +trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end of the canada, which suddenly +turned to the east, and saw that the estero[32] was finished in a +spacious valley. To the canada they gave the name of San Francisco[33]. +Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep +arroyo, whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately +into the estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site +of Stanford University[34]. + +Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route, +Portola now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four +days in which to explore the country and find the port containing the +supply-ship. + +Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the +neighboring rancherias, set out after noon on November 7th and returned +in the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port +or ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the +Indians had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could +not be in advance. They also reported that the country they had seen +towards the north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for +the reason that the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, +were hostile and would dispute the passage. They said that they had +encountered another immense estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait), +which also ran far inland and connected with the one on the southeast, +and that to double it would take many leagues of travel[35]. + +During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were +compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much +suffering from indigestion and fever. + +Portola called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the +best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point +of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which +they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the +command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by +the route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of +Pines at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild +geese which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the +coast. The following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of +Pines and camped in the canada of the Carmelo, where was plenty of wood +and good water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor +sent ten soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian +pioneers, who undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with +instructions to thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the +Port of Monterey was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. + +The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They +were tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and +they reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that +the mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was +no passage along the shore. + +Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a +station for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence +they make a landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all +winds * * * and is thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of +gentle disposition, peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like +that of Castile, and hemp, and cotton,"[36] etc. + +The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port, +protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the +Rio Carmelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but +lagunillas; "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile, +who raised flax and hemp and cotton?" Costanso says that in their entire +journey, they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people +more wild and savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is +not strange that Portola failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada, +Vizcaino's Famoso Puerte de Monterey. + +The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply +was almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the +Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on +December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found +the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding +it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen +half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming +excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited +free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all +might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, +the junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the +provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the +mules for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better +to divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San +Diego. Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented +difficulties. The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the +governor announced his determination. They would return to San Diego +at once, he said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the +whole expedition would be lost. + +A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of +December 9th, delaying the march. + +On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before +leaving Carmelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the +shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig; +at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a +bottle and buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the +expedition, its commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the +channel of Santa Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage +of the Santa Lucia mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point +Reyes, etc. + +"The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros +intervened which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go +around, and other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of +provisions), made it necessary for us to return, believing that the +Port of Monterey might perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and +thinking that we might have passed it without observing it. We left the +estero of San Francisco on our return on the 11th of November. We passed +the Punta de Ano Nuevo on the 19th of said month, and reached the second +time this Port and Ensenada de Pinos on the 27th of the same." + +It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for +the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it, +their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows +the latitude at various points as observed by Costanso. It requests the +commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them, +should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of +the expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible, +that the expedition might sight and obtain succor from them. + +The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half, +and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another +cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they +ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming. +They killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and +on the 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers +stole flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided +the remainder among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a +mudhole near San Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it +was a feast day[37]. On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here, +among the Channel Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were +over, and the health of the command improved daily. Instead of following +up the Santa Clara river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, +into the San Fernando valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river, +crossed the Santa Ana, January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24, +1770, with the command in good health and without the loss of a man, +"with the merit of having been compelled to eat the flesh of male and +female mules, and with not having found the Port of Monterey, which we +judged to have been filled up by the great sand dunes which were in the +place where we had expected to find it."[38] + +Portola found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had +died, and Junipero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy. +No tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a +careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicata +in case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be +exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of +March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure, +very much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera +was sent to Velicata with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to +bring up the cattle and supplies that had been left there. + +After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a +sail appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to +prevent the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, +and Portola prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of +Monterey. Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of +the search were related to him, that the place where they erected the +second cross was the long-lost Port of Monterey. + +On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junipero, +Costanso, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th, +Portola set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven +soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego +was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers +Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as +guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with +supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle. + +Portola followed the same route that he took on the retreat from +Monterey, and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de +Pinos, near the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place +for the camp, Portola took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and +went to the cross to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found +around the cross a ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which +were decked with feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them, +while at the foot of the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As +Portola, Fages, and Crespi walked along the beach and looked out over +the bay and noted its calm and placid waters, with its swimming seals +and spouting whales, they broke forth with one voice, "This is the Port +of Monterey which we have sought. It is exactly as reported by Sebastian +Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."[39] + +Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Carmelo, Portola +ordered the expedition to Carmelo Bay by direct line, while he, with +Fages and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it +well covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a +ship. They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress +Point), and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they +awaited the arrival of the San Antonio. + +On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made +signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had +dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors +to be a most famous port. + +On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where, +in 1602, Vizcaino's Carmelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de +Portola, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition, +Fray Junipero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the +San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with +the crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father +president chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the +musical deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns +of the San Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the +conclusion of the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portola, governor +of the Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his +majesty Don Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of +San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the +first presidio and second mission in California. + +In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portola now +delivered to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command +of the new establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San +Blas, and California knew him no more. + + + + + + +DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLA AFTER HE LEFT CALIFORNIA + +By E. J. Molera + + +Portola and Costanso sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to +the viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costanso remained in the +capital and took part in several engineering works, among others, the +map of the Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted +by the writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portola's further history, +has so far discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's +return to the capital was followed by promotion from Captain to +Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as +Governor of Puebla, February 23, 1777. + +In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio +covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portola's +taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state: + +"Possession of Governor Portola." + +"In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal +title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his +Majesty to Senor Don Gaspar de Portola, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal +Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor, +and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said +title has been forwarded." + +"The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in +his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from +the king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its +contents and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel +Don Gaspar de Portola be given possession of said office, and for that +purpose, said noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him +to this hail of sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having +certified to his identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the +office of Governor, doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the +poor with excessive taxes; to keep and cause to be kept, the rights, +privileges, royal decrees and ordinances, etc." + +"Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal +justice, by which the act of possession was completed." + +In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portola as +Governor of Puebla. + +That in the year 1779, Portola was still Governor of Puebla is proved by +two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular +official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the +death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith; +the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portola, dated April 17th, 1779. + + + +Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving +an Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos, +Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. Document +Obtained from the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + + + +"My Dear Sir:" + +"By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal +packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don +Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor +of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th +inst. at San Blas." + +"In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made +by this officer and his pilot, Don Jose Canizares, your Excellency will +see, in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained +gives knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities +that is has to invernate[40] vessels. The docility and gentle manners +of the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the utility +of the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing this +land." + +"The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms +everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water, +wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is +rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey." + +"He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the +merit of the pilot, Don Jose Canizares, in discharging the commission +entrusted to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve +to that of the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency +that you remind His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful +that the Department of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made +has always shown the same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the +one just finished with such advantage to the service, because of the +information and knowledge he has shown in the discharge of his duty." + +"For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as +Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such +important work." + +"That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish." + +"Exm deg.. Sr." + +"Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands," + +"Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua." + +"Mexico, November 26th, 1775." + +"To His Excellency Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga." + + + + + +Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by +Sea to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of +California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco. + + +Father Junipero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages +the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and +notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico +to lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego +in the mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in +Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773. + +Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he +considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but +little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official +business, had not an outside incident given them force. + +Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg, +communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring +the coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the +newspapers of the Russian capital[41]. This news with the corroborating +proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts of April 11th and +September 23, 1773. + +The result of this information was to give a better organization to the +maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California. +It was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco; +that better means of communication be established between San Diego +and Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the +Russians had made settlements on the coast of California. + + + + + +THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS + +Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece) + +Under Command of Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel +de Ayala + +From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco + + +The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a +Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at +Seville, Spain[42]. + + +On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de +Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in +the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to +the west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don +Bruno de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don +Juan de la Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command +of the packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manrique, was +sick and unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited +until the morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which +carried his predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board +to follow the frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the +expedition, Don Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar +and provisions which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck +where they were liable to be damaged. + +At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the +wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela +Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in +sight of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the +southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds +and calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable +progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain +some water to replace that which had been consumed[43]. The pilot could +not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On April +2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day he +came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on +board the governor of California[44]. From the Concepcion Ayala obtained +six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious accident happened to +the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, he had a number of +loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they could not injure +anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the bullet entering +the commander's foot between the second and third toes, coming out under +the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed. + +On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about +two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about +twelve leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress +northward was very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch +to calk the launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great +damage was done. On the same day indications of land were noted and some +whales were seen, which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On +the following day they saw some seals, which, according to the sailors, +was the second sign of land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which, +they say, is proof positive of land being near. On the same day land was +sighted at 4 p. m.; the North Farallones of San Francisco were seen to +the north and Point Ano Nuevo to the southeast. At 7 p. m., the +South Farallones were seen at a distance of about two leagues to the +northeast. The variation of the needle was observed and found to be 13 deg. +E. + +Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Ano +Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At +noon the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36 deg. 58'. +At 3 p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could +not be seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at +5 p. m. they saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The +variation of the needle was observed and found to be 12 deg. 58' E. They had +some difficulty in finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy +bottom. + +On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail +and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast. + +Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which +time he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails +and repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under +water at the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half +yards. + +He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco. + + +Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36 deg. deg. 33', +longitude 16 deg. 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San +Francisco, July 26, 1775. + +That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a +contrary direction. + +On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the +range of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction[45]. At +noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13 deg. distant five miles; at 3 p. +m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Ano Nuevo came +in sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant. +From July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of +contrary winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was +seen to the east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was +found to be Point Ano Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view +bearing north 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was +considered to be Point Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the +San Carlos steered west-southwest and continued in that course until 8 +a. m. of the 4th, when the bearing was changed to the north-northeast. +At noon the sun's altitude was taken and the latitude was found to be +37 deg. 11', and longitude 17 deg. 51' W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th, +the southernmost Farallon of the Port of San Francisco was seen to the +northwest, distant about eight leagues. The land to the north was Point +Reyes, bearing 4 deg. W., distant about fourteen leagues. At half past +eleven, considering the coast was near, the course was changed to the +south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of August 5th, when it was changed again +to the north-northeast 5 deg. north to bring the ship at sunrise to the +point it was at sunset of the day before. At 5 a. m. four of the +Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north-northwest, distant +four leagues. Point Ano Nuevo was southeast 1/4 east from twelve to +fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4 deg. east, distant three +leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala lowered the +launch, and in it Pilot Canizares was sent with ten men to search for an +anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. At 9 a. m. a +strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at eleven it was +observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which convinced the +commander that it was due to the tide, and this was confirmed by the +soundings; in entering the port, as on the first occasion, the tide was +going out, and on the second one the tide was coming in. The altitude +of the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the utmost care, and the +latitude was found to be 37 deg. 42' and the longitude 17 deg. 14' W. of San +Blas. At this time Point Ano Nuevo was about fourteen leagues distant +to the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, distant four +leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four leagues. +The wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to the +north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and bottom +found at sixteen brazas[46] of mud and sand mixed, and distant from the +mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at fifteen brazas, +with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was continued and the +bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The current was so +great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a strong wind +from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed them to go +not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the current +must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The swiftness +of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and that night +was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this was +done with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it +necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging +might give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with +a 20-lb. lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either +in the channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was +realized that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike +bottom. They continued thus until they were one league inside the +mouth of the bay and a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind +suddenly stopped. Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards +the mouth, an anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast +to the big mast so that if it did not catch the bottom it would not +be lost. It was found that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made +ready to drop in case the big one should drag. When the wind stopped +and the current ceased, the vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas, +with sandy bottom[47]. + +At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset +the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not +come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the +entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable +harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he +attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were +such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried +him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor +he had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired +out, made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out, +with the same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw +the packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in +reaching her. + +At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which +was to the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had +sufficient water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of +shelter then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing +his anchor in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to +the east, although the wind came from the landward which was about two +leagues from the harbor[48]. He called this harbor "Carmeita," because +in it was a rock resembling a friar of that order. There was in its +vicinity an Indian village, the inhabitants of which came out from their +huts and cried out and made signs for the vessel to go near them. As +the sailors were taking soundings and came near the shore, the Indians +erected a pole, at the top of which was a large number of feathers. The +sailors having no orders to answer them, remained at a distance from the +shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, that the sailors were afraid of +them, endeavored to assure them by dropping their bows to the ground, +and after describing a circle in the air with the arrows stuck them in +the sand. The launch came on board again, and soon after, the Indians, +from a point of land near the vessel, talked to the sailors with loud +cries, and although their voices were heard distinctly, they could not +be understood for want of an interpreter. At 9 the launch was sent again +to another harbor to the north, which seemed to be better sheltered and +to have better anchorage[49]. It was so, and when the launch returned at +10, the pilot stated that he found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas, +and the bottom was sticky with mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards +the place examined, but a strong current prevented her reaching it. It +was then decided to anchor in fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they +stayed there all night, during which time the vessel moved on account of +the bad quality of the anchors. + +On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and +fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and +the bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided +to go to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary +to return to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling +to the men with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch +with the priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must +not molest the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for +which purpose the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and +ordered them to observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians +showed fight they could easily return to the launch, where four armed +men must always remain to protect the retreat. It is true that from the +day when intercourse was first had with the Indians, it was seen how +affable and hospitable they were, showing the greatest desire for the +Spaniards to go to their village, where, they said, they could eat and +sleep. They had already prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from +their corn, and tomales of the same. During the time the Spaniards were +with the Indians, they found that the latter repeated the Spanish words +with great facility, and by signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go +on board the packet boat, but the Indians, also by signs, signified that +until the Spaniards should visit their village, they could not go on +board. After a little while the Spaniards returned to the boat and the +Indians disappeared. + +On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the +bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report. + +On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near +Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places +were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, +which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter +even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of +the abundance of those birds that were on it. + +On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of +water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don Jose +de Canizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a +few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, +Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find +the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send +to San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but +explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51]. + +On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where +they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to +ask for bread in Spanish. + +From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay +of San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don Jose de Canizares was +instructed to make his report and the map of the bay. + +On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, +but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had +carried the vessel. + +From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the +rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place +on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day. + +In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox +in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till +October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on +November 6th of the same year. + + + + + +Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San +Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the +Examination of the Port of San Francisco + + +Your Excellency:--I have finished the orders under which I took command +of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November +6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco. + +Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, +together with the pilot, Don Jose Canizares' report of his examination +and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, +notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of +San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from +Cape Horn. + +After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor +of Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo +and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July +27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived +on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting +by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that +pertains to this matter. + +It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony +that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh +water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is +healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in +Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, +and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many +advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians +around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle +in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several +times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so +that from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their +behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; +the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language. + +There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, +enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was +ordered of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my +predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was +possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken +by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer +of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don +Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I +remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the +reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was +convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d +by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel +Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am +satisfied that Don Jose Canizares executed with his usual ability +everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency +(in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long +as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed +such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I +found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty. + +On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I +considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no +wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring +the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me +to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and +again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I +noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because +the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before +had warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, +I determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on +the 19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came +October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my +foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency. + +I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years. + +San Blas, November 9, 1775. + +Juan Manuel de Ayala. + +To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli. + + + + +Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco + +Situated in Latitude 37 deg. 53' North, Longitude 17 deg. 10' West of San Blas + +By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala + + +Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude +37 deg. 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with +two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three +white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs +north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five +submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56], +ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called +Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest +one a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient +to accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom, +but because it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the +west-southwest. The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where +a copious creek empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This +harbor, with the one inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has +been found very good, with the prevailing winds from the south to the +northwest. + +From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are +seen, distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a +sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve +leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to +the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, +this is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs +east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the +third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a +low point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called +Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth +of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in +a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three +small rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter +any vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and +broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which +and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San +Jose, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this +famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or +leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos +Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless +the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the +shores of San Jose Point. + +To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67] +is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides +the water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, +especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island +where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of +the island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a +pistol-shot of the shore. + +To the east-northeast of Point San Jose there is a sheltered harbor, +landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where +water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no +current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I +consider, it one of the best anchorages. + +Once Points San Jose and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to +leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any +place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid +is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its +branches three miles. + +This report was made to me by Pilot Don Jose Canizares, to whom I +entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick. + + + + + +Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map + + +Report of the Pilot Don Jose de Canizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala + + +Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the +Indies at Seville. + + + +Dear Captain:--During the four times that I made reconnaissance of this +Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast +what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast +of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a +direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the +points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is +about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are +three small islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage +of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded +with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a +distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to +be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with +submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient +water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its +being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and +anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current, +which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69]. + +North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where +there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south +ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes +to another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight +leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided +into two channels,--one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to +the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large +harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's +distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the +northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about +one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a +large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the +channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having +three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a +low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division +made by the hills[74]. The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs +directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the +hills through a canon that runs in the same direction. + +All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it +is not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, +excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the +southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. +Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, +and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not +difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account +of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its +shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in +the canon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and +a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a rancheria +of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy +anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me +for that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was +useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes +(amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting +them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time, +noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and +retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with +good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many +others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some +scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they +caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing +with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than +the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in +this northern part. + +Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a +harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and +sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland +ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called +it Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of +that saint[76]. + +To the southeast of this port[77] the canon continues, until it joins +the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three leagues +in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay[78] with a depth +of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers[79] empty and +take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the same as +in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is the +largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has +many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in +very low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their +mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. +This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second +occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on +the bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than +the Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult +to obtain wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is +covered with trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, +and impossible of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the +north of Angel Island. To the southeast of said island following the +estero is as follows: + +To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is +another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth +of the channel in two[80], through which the sea enters to a distance of +about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some parts, one, +two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its width +ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not over +two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a point, +a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry[81]. In every part there are +seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, bunches of tule, +and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, since they are +in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for three leagues +inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the weather that +strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against the strong +current from the north. + +The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has +in its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of +thick redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, +navigable only by launches[82], and on the coast two harbors[83] where +vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian village, +rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better places +for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance. + +All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, +and sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the +reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as +proof of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter +of Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775. + +Jose de Canizares. + + + +Index of Places + + Acapulco + Alcatraz Island + Almejas, El Rincon de las + Almejas, Punta del + Angel Island + Angel Point + Ano Nuevo, Punta de + Arroyo de San Francisco + Arroyo Seco + Baker's Beach + Barranca + Ballenas Bay + Bonita, Point + Brazas + California, Baja + California, Gulf of + Canada + Canada do los Osos + Canada do San Andres + Carmelo, Pt + Carmelo, bay + Carmelo, Rio del + Carquines, strait + Cerralbo, Bay of + Codo + Columbia river + Concepcion, Laguna de la + Concepcion, Point + Dieguenos + Drake's Bay + El Buchon + El Oso Flaco + Ensenada + Farallones de San Francisco + Farallones, Gulf of + Florida + Fort Point + Golden Gate + Golden Gate, strait + Guadalupe, lake + Islais creek + Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de + La Paz, Bay of + La Paz, port of + Lime Point + Lobos creek + Loreto, presidio of + Los Angeles, City of + Los Angeles, river + Napa slough + Mare Island + Mendocino, Cape + Mescaltitan + Mission bay + Montara mountains + Monterey, Bay of + Monterey, Port of + Monterey, presidio and mission of + Muertos, Punta de los + Navidad, Puerto de + Oakland Flats + Pajaro, Rio del + Pedernales, Point + Philippine Islands + Pilar Point + Pinos, Punta de + Porciuncula, Indulgence + Puerto Dulce + Punta del Angel de la Guarda + Presidio anchorage + Rancheria + Reyes, Punta de los + Reyes, Rio de los + Richardson's bay + Red Rock + Ross, Fort + San Blas + San Buenaventura, mission of + San Carlos, Point + San Clemente, island + San Corpoforo, canon + San Diego + San Diego, bay + San Diego, Founding of mission + San Diego, presidio of + San Elizario, Rio de + San Fernando, valley + San Francisco, Bahia o Puerto de + San Francisco, Bay of + San Francisco, Port of + San Francisco, creek + San Gabriel, valley + San Joaquin river + San Jose, Point + San Juan Capistrano, mission of + San Lorenzo, Rio de + San Luis Obispo + San Luis Rey, mission of + San Miguel (island) + San Nicolas, Isla de + San Pablo bay + San Pedro bay + San Pedro Point + San Pedro valley + Santa Ana, Rio de + Santa Barbara Channel + Santa Barbara Isla de + Santa Barbara presidio of + Santa Catalina, island + Santa Clara, river + Santa Inez, river + Santa Lucia, Sierra de + Santa Maria, mission of + Santa Rosa, river + Santa Susana, Sierra de + Sacramento, river + Sal, Point + Salines, river + Santiago, Point + Seal Rocks + Suisun bay + Tamalpais, mountain + The Brothers (rocks) + The Sisters (rocks) + Tomales bay + Velicata + Yerba Buena cove + + + + +Index of Persons + + + Aguilar, Martin + Aguirre, Juan B. + Alvarado, Juan Bautista + Amador, Pedro + Anza, Juan Bautista de + Arriaga, Julian de + Ayala, Juan Manuel + Bancroft, H. H. + Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la + Bolanos, Francisco + Bucareli, Antonio Maria + Bueno, Cabrera + Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues + Canizares, Jose + Carrillo, Jose Raimundo + Cermenon, Sebastian + Coronado, Francisco Vasquez + Cortes, Hernando + Corvan, Toribio Gomez de + Costanso, Miguel + Cota, Pablo de + Crespi, Juan + Davidson, George + De Gali, Francisco + De Soto, Hernando + Drake, Francis + Estorace, Jorge + Fages, Pedro + Ferrelo, Bartolome + Figueroa, Rodriga de + Fletcher, Francis + Galvez, Jose de + Gomez, Fray Francisco + Griffin, George Butler + Heceta, Bruno de + Jiminez (Fortun) + Laut, Agnes C. + Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de + Lummis, Chas. F. + Maldonado, Gabriel + Manrique, Miguel + Mendoza, Antonio de + Monterey, Conde de + Morgana, Juan de + Oliveros, Jose Ignacio + Ortega, Jose Francisco + Palou, Fray Francisco + Perez, Juan + Parron, Fray Fernando + Pino, Miguel del + Portola, Gaspar de + Prat, Pedro + Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de + Salcedo, Felipe + Serra, Fray Junipero + Soberanes, Jose Maria + Vancouver, Captain George + Velasco, Luis de + Vila, Vicente + Vizcaino, Fray Juan + Vizcaino, Sebastian + Yorba, Jose Antonio + Zuniga y Asevedo, Gaspar de + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[Footnote 1: Sierra de Santa Lucia.] + +[Footnote 2: Audiencia, the highest judicial body.] + +[Footnote 3: The system of encomienda conferred feudal rights upon the +discoverers. The Indians became vassals of Spanish lords.] + +[Footnote 4: Vizcaino says he set out on the discovery of the coast of the South +Sea with two ships, a lancha, and a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small +vessel having no deck and but one mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas +calls the vessel a fragata. A barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long +open boat.] + +[Footnote 5: The second voyage of Vizcaino is of particular interest to +Californians for the reason that the names given by him to the various +geographical features of the coast still remain. The particulars of the +first voyage are taken largely from the publications of the Southern +California Historical Society of documents in the Sutro collection.] + +[Footnote 6: Sutro Col. Pub. Southern California Hist. Socy.] + +[Footnote 7: Prof. George Davidson identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River +in 42 deg. 25'.] + +[Footnote 8: About Cape San Quintin, the latitude of their northernmost mission.] + +[Footnote 9: Instruccion qua ha de observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro +Pages, 5 enero de 1769. Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish +Archives of California.] + +[Footnote 10: So-called from the cuera, a leathern jacket worn by them as a +defensive armor.] + +[Footnote 11: Out West. March-July, 1902.] + +[Footnote 12: Pancakes.] + +[Footnote 13: Dead Men's Point. The name has disappeared from the modern maps, +but is found on all of the old ones. It is the foot of H street where +the cars for the Coronado ferry turn on to the wharf.] + +[Footnote 14: I am well aware that this claim will be disputed by one whose +study of original documents and power of analysis make him perhaps the +greatest authority on early California History; but I am nevertheless +prepared to maintain my position.] + +[Footnote 15: Carga, 275 lbs.] + +[Footnote 16: Hence the presidial soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so +distinguished from soldiers of the regular army.] + +[Footnote 17: Diario Historico de los viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte +de la California. Ms. Original in Sutro Library.] + +[Footnote 18: The league is the Spanish league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles.] + +[Footnote 19: They also gave it the name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th, they +had just observed.] + +[Footnote 20: Sometimes called the Grand Pardon of Assisi--the great indulgence +of the Franciscans. Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church +of Our Lady of the Angeles of Porciuncula, it was, by apostolic indult, +expanded to accompany the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is +enough for him to erect an altar and that altar will be to him St. +Mary of the Angels, and he will there find the Porciuncula of the +revelations. Whoso confesses and receives the sacrament in the church of +Porciuncula is granted plenary remission of his sins in this world and +the next. This indulgence is only for August 2nd--that is, from the +afternoon of August 1st until sunset of August 2nd.] + +[Footnote 21: It is to this incident that the city of Los Angeles owes its name. +The full baptismal name of the city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los +Angeles--Our Lady the Queen of the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by +royal order, the second pueblo established in California.] + +[Footnote 22: Rancheria is the name given to an Indian village or town.] + +[Footnote 23: The Valley of the Bears.] + +[Footnote 24: The diarists applied the word canada to either a canon or an open +valley.] + +[Footnote 25: The word ensenada, much used by the Spanish explorers, means a +bight or open roadstead, not an enclosed and protected bay.] + +[Footnote 26: "Transportar en Xamus al Modo que cominan las mujeres en +Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California, ii. 181.] + +[Footnote 27: The names given on this portion of the route have all disappeared, +but are here given as a suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad.] + +[Footnote 28: The Fleas.] + +[Footnote 29: It must be borne in mind that what they called the Bay or Port of +San Francisco was that stretch of water reaching from Point Reyes to +Point San Pedro and later known as the Gulf of the Farallones.] + +[Footnote 30: Professor George Davidson says that what was seen by Portola from +the Montara mountains was the break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep +narrow valley which runs straight from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay, +fourteen miles.] + +[Footnote 31: The Golden Gate and Bay of San Francisco.] + +[Footnote 32: The Bay of San Francisco continued to be called the "Estero," until +some time after Colonel Anza established the presidio and mission of San +Francisco in 1776.] + +[Footnote 33: The present name, Canada de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov. +30, 1714.] + +[Footnote 34: On November, 1774, Rivera came up the peninsula on an exploring +expedition and on the spot where he had camped with the first expedition +in 1769, he planted a cross to mark the place for a mission. In March, +1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, coming to select sites for the +Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, notes this cross on the bank +of the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San Francisquito creek), about one +hundred paces above the great redwood tree, and says the plan for a +mission there was abandoned because the creek was dry in summer. I note +this explanation because an excellent authority has located Portola's +camp on Redwood creek.] + +[Footnote 35: I give to Ortega the credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the +Straits of Carquinez. The testimony seems sufficient to me.] + +[Footnote 36: Vizcaino to the King, May 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern +California, Vol. ii, Part 1.] + +[Footnote 37: On the day of the Holy Innocents it was not possible to say mass. +We are sorry for it, because it is the only feast day in all the journey +up to the present that we have been without mass. We are stuck in a mud +hole and are unable to move from the place where we are all wet through, +and it is not possible to make a journada to a plain that is dry for +this is bubbling up water--Crespi, Diario.] + +[Footnote 38: Crespi: Diario.] + +[Footnote 39: Palou: Noticias de la Nueva California.] + +[Footnote 40: Invernate--to winter.] + +[Footnote 41: Manuel Orozco y Berra, Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an +Mexico, Anales del Ministerio de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo +VI, p. 269. Documents in the Archives of the Indies, Seville.] + +[Footnote 42: This is a summary of the document. A full translation would be too +tedious for a work of this kind.] + +[Footnote 43: On the Tres Marias Islands.] + +[Footnote 44: Don Pedro Fages. Commandante of California, who had been recalled.] + +[Footnote 45: Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July +24th. That was to make the sailing fit the Bancroft theories.] + +[Footnote 46: Braza--Fathom: Six feet.] + +[Footnote 47: Ayala anchored inside Port Point--the Presidio anchorage.] + +[Footnote 48: Richardson's Bay.] + +[Footnote 49: Angel Island.] + +[Footnote 50: Alcatraz--Pelican] + +[Footnote 51: The Southern portion of the bay.] + +[Footnote 52: Pt. San Pedro.] + +[Footnote 53: That is: Pt. Almejas or Pt. San Pedro.] + +[Footnote 54: Barranca: The dictionary definition is a ravine or gulch, but it +also means a high bluff or cliff and in that sense is used by these +explorers.] + +[Footnote 55: i. e.: from Pt. Almejas.] + +[Footnote 56: Cliff Rouse Rocks.] + +[Footnote 57: Punta del Angel de la Guarda--Point Lobos.] + +[Footnote 58: Seal Rocks.] + +[Footnote 59: Bakers Beach.] + +[Footnote 60: Lobos Creek.] + +[Footnote 61: i. e.: Inside of Point San Jose--Fort Point.] + +[Footnote 62: Tamalpais] + +[Footnote 63: Point Bonita. The present name was given it in 1776.] + +[Footnote 64: Golden Gate Strait.] + +[Footnote 65: i. e.: The outer harbor; outside of the Golden Gate.] + +[Footnote 66: Lime Point.] + +[Footnote 67: Angel Island.] + +[Footnote 68: The Presidio anchorage.] + +[Footnote 69: This is the body of water between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt. +Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. The high farallon is Red Rock.] + +[Footnote 70: The rocks are The Sisters and The Brothers.] + +[Footnote 71: San Pablo Bay.] + +[Footnote 72: Napa Slough. The marsh was evidently under water, and island number +one, with Mare Island, made one long island.] + +[Footnote 73: Codo--1 1/2 feet.] + +[Footnote 74: Mare Island. The division of the hills or canon is Carquines +Strait.] + +[Footnote 75: Carquines Straits.] + +[Footnote 76: The Assumption of the Virgin--August 15th. It is Southampton bay.] + +[Footnote 77: That is, from Puerto de la Asumpta.] + +[Footnote 78: Suisun Bay.] + +[Footnote 79: The Sacramento and San Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto +Dulce--Freshwater Port.] + +[Footnote 80: Yerba Buena or Goat Island. Canizaries marked it on the map (c) for +isla do Alcatraces, but that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of +the entry in the Log under date of August 12, with the map will show.] + +[Footnote 81: Oakland and Berkeley tide flats.] + +[Footnote 82: Islais creek.] + +[Footnote 83: Yerba Buena cove and Mission bay.] + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The March of Portola, by +Zoeth S. Eldredge and E. J. Molera + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MARCH OF PORTOLA *** + +***** This file should be named 4978.txt or 4978.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/9/7/4978/ + +Produced by David A. 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Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The March of Portolá + +Author: Zoeth S. Eldredge + +Release Date: January, 2004 [EBook #4978] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on April 7, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: Latin-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE MARCH OF PORTOLA *** + + + + +This eBook was produced by David A. Schwan <davidsch@earthlink.net>. + + + +The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + + + +by +Zoeth S. Eldredge + + + +- + + + +The Log of the San Carlos + +and + +Original Documents Translated and Annotated + + + +by +E. J. Molera + + + +Published by the Reception Committee of The California Promotion +Committee + + + +This Book is published with the approval and endorsement of the +Executive Committee of the Portolá Festival. + + + +The March of Portolá + +and + +The Log of the San Carlos + + + +San Francisco + +- + +"Serene, indifferent of fate, +Thou sittest at the Western Gate; + +Upon thy heights so lately won, +Still slant the banners of the sun; + +Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, +O warder of two continents, + +And scornful of the peace that flies, +Thy angry winds and sullen skies, + +Thou drawest all things, small or great, +To thee beside the Western Gate." + + + +Table of Contents + +- + +Introduction +The March of Portolá and Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco +Data regarding Portolá after he left California +Letter of the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga +Causes that led to the Expedition of the San Carlos +Log of the San Carlos +Report of the Commander of the San Carlos +Description of the Bay of San Francisco +Report of the Pilot of the San Carlos + + + +Illustrations + +The March to Monterey (Frontispiece) +Carrying the Sick +Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco +Departure of the San Carlos from La Paz +Facsimile of signature of Governor Portolá +First Survey and Map of the Bay of San Francisco + + + +Introduction + +In the annals of adventure, there are no more thrilling narratives of +heroic perseverance in the performance of duty than the record of +Spanish exploration in America. To those of us who have come into +possession of the fair land opened up by them, the story of their +travels and adventures have the most profound interest. The account of +the expedition of Portolá has never been properly presented. Many +writers have touched on it, and H. H. Bancroft, in his History of +California, gives a brief digest of Crespi's diary. Most writers on +California history have drawn on Palou's Vida del V. P. F. Junipero +Serra and Noticias de la Nueva California, and without looking further, +have accepted the ecclesiastical narrative. We have endeavored in this +sketch to give, in a clear and concise form, the conditions which +preceded and led up to the occupation of California. + +The importance of California in relation to the control of the Pacific +was early recognized by the great European powers, some of whom had but +small respect for the Bull of Pope Alexander VI dividing the New World +between Spain and Portugal. England, France, and Russia sent repeated +expeditions into the Pacific. In 1646 the British Admiralty sent two +ships to look in Hudson's Bay for a northwest passage to the South Sea, +one of which bore the significant name of California. The voyage of +Francis Drake, 1577-1580, was a private venture, but at Drake's Bay he +proclaimed the sovereignty of Elizabeth, and named the country New +Albion. Two hundred years later (1792-1793) Captain George Vancouver +explored the coast of California down to thirty degrees of north +latitude (Ensenada de Todos Santos), which, he says, "is the +southernmost limit of New Albion, as discovered by Sir Francis Drake, or +New California, as the Spaniards frequently call it." Even after the +occupation and settlement by the Spaniards, so feeble were their +establishments that, as Vancouver reports to the Admiralty, it would +take but a small force to wrest from Spain this most valuable +possession. But though the growing feebleness of Spain presaged the time +when her hold upon America would be loosened, the standard of individual +heroism was not lowered, and the achievements of Portolá and of Anza +rank with those of De Soto and Coronado. The California explorer did +not, it is true, have to fight his way through hordes of fierce natives. +The California Indians, as a rule, received the white adventurers +gladly, and entertained them with such hospitality as they had to offer, +but the Indians north of the Santa Barbara Channel were but a poor lot. +In a country abounding in game of all kinds, a sea swarming with fish, a +soil capable of growing every character of foodstuff, these miserable +natives lived in a chronic state of starvation. + +As in heroic qualities, so also in skill and judgment, Portolá upholds +the best traditions of Spain. The success of an expedition depends upon +the character of the leader. Pánfilo de Narváez landed on the coast of +Florida in April, 1528, with a well-equipped army of three hundred men +and forty horses, just half the force he sailed with from Spain the +previous June, and of the three hundred men whom he led into Florida, +only four lived to reach civilization - the rest perished. That is but +one example of incompetent leadership. When Portolá organized his +expedition for the march from San Diego Bay to Monterey, many of his +soldiers were ill from scurvy, and at one time on the march the sick +list numbered nineteen men, including the governor and Rivera, his chief +officer. Sixteen men had to be carried, and to three, in extremis, the +viaticum was administered; but he brought them all through, and returned +to San Diego without the loss of a man. + +There are two full diaries of this expedition, one by Father Crespi and +the other by Alférez Costansó. There is, besides, a diary of Junípero +Serra of the march from Velicatá to San Diego Bay, a translation of +which is printed in Out West magazine (Los Angeles), March-July, 1902. +It is of small value to the student of history. There is a diary by +Portolá, quoted by Bancroft, and a Fragmento by Ortega, also used by +Bancroft. These we have not seen. There are letters from Francisco +Palou, Juan Crespi and Miguel Costansó, printed in Out West for January +1902. The diary of Father Crespi is printed in Palou's Noticias de la +Nueva California. Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, re-printed San +Francisco, 1874. The diary of Miguel Costansó is in the Sutro library. +It has never been printed. It is prefaced by an historical narrative, a +poor translation of which was published by Dalrymple, London, 1790, and +a better one by Chas. F. Lummis in Out West, June-July, 1901. In +Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California, Vol. II, +Part 1, Los Angeles, 1891, a number of documents of the Sutro collection +are printed, with translations by George Butler Griffin. These relate to +the explorations of the California coast by ships from the Philippines, +the two voyages of Vizcaino, with some letters of Junípero Serra, and +diaries of the voyage of the Santiago to the northern coast in 1774. + +The sketch here submitted is the result of much study of original +documents, and the route of the expedition is laid down after careful +survey of the physical geography where possible, and in other cases, by +the contoured maps of the Geological Survey, following the directions +and language as given by the diarists. Among the printed books consulted +are Palou's Vida del Padre Junipero Serra and his Noticias de la Nueva +California, above noted. The Conquest of the Great Northwest, Agnes C. +Laut, New York, 1908; History of California by H. H. Bancroft; Treaties +of Navigation, Cabrera Bueno, Translation, Dalrymple, London, 1790; The +Discovery of San Francisco Bay, George Davidson, and Francis Drake on +the Northwest Coast of America in 1579, the same author; Proceedings of +the Geographical Society of the Pacific. + +In view of the forthcoming Portolá Festival, The California Promotion +Committee, through its Reception Committee, appointed three of its +members to compile a history of the first expedition for the settlement +of California. In the endeavor to obtain further knowledge of the life +and character of Portolá, the committee has been enabled, through the +efforts of one of its members, to have careful search made among the +archives of Madrid, of the India Office at Saville, of the City of +Mexico, and of Puebla, and while we have little to show, as yet, +concerning Portolá, we have received other documents of the utmost +importance to the history of San Francisco: a chronicle of the events +following the discovery of the Bay. + +By royal edict, a maritime expedition for the exploration of the +northwestern coasts of America sailed from San Blas early in the year +1775. This consisted of the frigate Santiago, under the +commander-in-chief, Don Bruno de Heceta; the packet boat San Carlos, +under Lieutenant Ayala, and schooner Sonora, under Lieutenant Bodega. To +Lieutenant Ayala was assigned the exploration of the Bay of San +Francisco, while the Santiago and the Sonora sailed for the north. +Bodega discovered the Bay which bears his name, and Heceta (to spell his +name as it is usually written) discovered the Columbia River. Bancroft +(History of California), in giving Palou's Vida as authority for his +short and incorrect account of Ayala's survey, says: "It is unfortunate +that neither map nor diary of this earliest survey is extant." It is +with pleasure we are permitted to present to the public these important +documents, now printed for the first time, and only regret that the +shortness of time allowed for their study may perhaps necessitate later +some minor corrections. + +We have also received from the Minister of Marine of Spain, Don José +Ferrano, under date of July 14, 1909, a drawing of the paquebot, San +Carlos, together with the record of her gallant commander, Don Juan +Manuel de Ayala. + +Ayala was born in Osuna, Andalucia, on the 28th of December, 1745. He +entered the Marine Corps on the 19th of September, 1760, and was made +Alférez de Fragata, October 10, 1767; Alférez de Navio, June 15, 1769; +Teniente de Fragata, April 28, 1774; Teniente de Navio, February, 1776; +and Capitan de Fragata, December 21, 1782. + +When the order for the exploration of the northern coast was made, Ayala +was one of the officers assigned to the work. He arrived in Vera Cruz in +August, 1774, proceeded to the City of Mexico, and was ordered by +Viceroy Bucareli to San Blas, where he was given command of the schooner +Sonora. The squadron under Heceta had hardly got under way, when the +commander of the San Carlos, Don Miguel Manrique, suddenly went mad. +Ayala was ordered to the command of the packet-boat, and returned to San +Blas with the unfortunate officer, to follow the squadron a few days +later. + +In December, 1775, Ayala conducted a reconnaissance on the coast of New +Spain, and at its conclusion was placed in command of the Santiago, and +until October, 1778, served the new establishments of California. In +August, 1779, he was sent to the Philippine Islands in command of the +San Carlos, returning to San Blas in 1781. In July, 1784, he returned to +Spain, and on March 14, 1785, was retired, at his own request, the royal +order granting him full pay as captain of frigate in consideration of +his services to California. He died December 30, 1797. + + + +Zoeth S. Eldredge, +E. J. Molera, +Charles H. Crocker, + +San Francisco, August, 1909. - Committee. + + + +The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco + +by + +Zoeth S. Eldredge. + + + +The popular mind accepts the oft-repeated statement that the settlement +of California was due to the pious zeal of a devoted priest, eager to +save the souls of the heathen, supplemented by the paternal care of a +monarch solicitous for the welfare of his subjects. The political +exigencies of the day are forgotten; military commanders and civil +governors sink into insignificance and become mere executives of the +priestly will, while the heroic efforts of Junípero Serra to convert the +natives, his courage in the face of danger, his sublime zeal, and his +unwearied devotion, make him the impelling factor in the colonization of +California. + +Nor is the popular conception that the church led the way into +California strange, when we understand that it is to the writings of +Fray Francisco Palou, friend, disciple, and successor of Junípero, that +all historians turn for the account of the occupation. Fray Palou +details the glorious life of the leader with whom he toiled; he +eulogizes the worthy priest, the ardent missionary, as he passed up and +down the length of the land, founding missions, planting the vine, the +olive, and the fruit tree in a land whose inhabitants had often suffered +from hunger; giving aid and comfort to the sick and weary and +consolation to the dying. Indeed, the pictures of the padres are +fascinating. The infant establishments planted by the church grew rich +and powerful, but so wise and gentle was the administration of the +priests and so generous their hospitality, that life in California in +the first quarter of the nineteenth century was an almost dolce far +niente existence. + +Radiant as is the priestly figure of Junípero drawn by Palou, the +careful investigator will find that the impelling factor in the +occupation of California was stern military necessity, not missionary +zeal. From the time of Cabrillo, Spain had claimed the coasts of the +Pacific up to forty-two degrees north latitude by right of discovery, +but more than two hundred years had passed and she had done nothing +towards making good this right by settlement. The country was open to +colonization by any nation strong enough to maintain and protect its +colonies. + +Before relating the story of Portolá's march, let us consider for a +moment the situation of California in its relation to Spain and other +European nations, and we will then understand why Spain found it +necessary to occupy the country. + +When Legaspi completed the conquest of the Philippines in 1565, he sent +his flagship, the San Pedro, back to New Spain under command of his +grandson, Felipe Salcedo, with orders to survey and chart a practicable +route for ships returning from the Islands. The San Pedro sailed from +Cebu, June 1, 1565, and took her course east-northeast to the Ladrones, +thence northward to latitude thirty-eight, thence sailing eastward, +following the Kuroshiwo, the Black Current of Japan, they made a +landfall on the coast of California about the latitude of Cape +Mendocino. A sail of two thousand five hundred miles down the coasts of +California and New Spain brought the voyagers to the port of Acapulco. +This route was charted by the priests on board the San Pedro, and for +nearly three centuries was the one followed by the galleons of Spain +sailing from Manila to Acapulco. The voyage across the Pacific was a +long one and ships in distress were obliged to put about and make for +Japan. A harbor on the coast of California in which ships could find +shelter and repair damages was greatly desired. A survey of the unknown +coasts of the South Sea, as it was called, was ordered, and it was also +suggested that the explorations be extended beyond the forty-second +degree of north latitude, it being held that the coast was a part of the +same continent as that of China, or only separated therefrom by the +narrow strait of Anian, which was believed to open in latitude +forty-two. + +Up to this time the only exploration of the northern coast of California +was that of Juan Rodrigues Cabrillo, and continued after his death by +his chief pilot, Bartolomé Ferrelo, in 1542-1543. Cabrillo sailed as far +north as Fort Ross, anchored in the Gulf of the Farallones, off the +entrance to the Golden Gate, and then sought refuge from the terrible +storms in San Miguel Island, Santa Barbara Channel, where he died. +Ferrelo took command and sailed up to Cape Mendocino, which he named in +honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, first viceroy of New Spain. + +On the 17th of June, 1579, Francis Drake, in command of the Golden +Hinde, took refuge in the bay under Point Reyes, now known as Drake's +Bay. He took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, +and named it New Albion, because of the white cliffs which, Chaplain +Fletcher writes, "lie towards the sea," and also "that it might have +some affinity with our own country." It was in this place and at this +time that the first English service was held in America, by Master +Francis Fletcher, chaplain to Francis Drake. The "Prayer Book Cross" in +Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, commemorates the event. + +Drake remained in this bay thirty-seven days, refitted his ship, +supplied himself with wood and water, and sailed on July 23d to the +Southeast Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on the +25th sailed across the Pacific for England by way of the Cape of Good +Hope. + +In 1585, Captain Francisco de Gali, sailing for the Philippines, was +directed to sail, on the return voyage, as far north as the weather +would permit, and on reaching the coast of California, examine the land +and the harbors on his way homeward, make maps of all, and report all +that he accomplished. It does not appear from Gali's report that he +accomplished anything in particular. He reached the coast in latitude +37° 30' (Pillar Point), and noted that the land was high and fair; that +the mountains[1] were without snow, and that there were many indications +of rivers, bays, and havens along the coast. + +In 1594, Captain Sebastian Cermeñon, a Portuguese sailor in the service +of Spain, sailed for the Philippines with orders similar to those of +Gali. In an attempt to survey the coast, he lost his ship, the San +Agustin. It is supposed she struck on one of the Farallones and was +beached in Drake's Bay. From the trunk of a tree they constructed a +boat, called a viroco, and in this the ship's company of more than +seventy persons continued the homeward voyage. The little vessel reached +Puerto de Navidad in safety, and here the commander and part of the +company left it in charge of the pilot, Juan de Morgana, with a crew of +ten men, who brought it into Acapulco on the 31st of January, 1596; a +most remarkable voyage of nearly twenty-five hundred miles by +shipwrecked, sick, and hungry men, crowded into an open boat. With the +loss of the San Agustin, explorations of the California coast by laden +ships from the Philippines came to an end. + +Sometime prior to the summer of 1595, the viceroy of New Spain, Don Luis +de Velasco, entered into an agreement with certain persons looking to +the exploration of the coasts of the Californias and the settlement of +the land. The consideration for this undertaking, which was to be at the +expense of the adventurers, was the privilege of pearl fishing and +trade, together with all the honors, favors, and exemptions usually +given to the pacifiers and settlers of new provinces. Preparations for +the expedition were under way, when a dispute arose between the leader +and his partners in the enterprise, and the matter was carried into the +courts. Before a decision was reached, the leader died, and the judge +ordered the other partners, among whom was one Sebastian Vizcaino, to +begin the voyage to the Californias within three months. Under this +order, Vizcaino applied to Viceroy Velasco, and received his permission +to make the journey. This was the condition of affairs when, on October +5, 1596, Velasco was relieved and a new viceroy, Don Gaspar de Zúñiga y +Azevedo, Count of Monterey, took command. At Velasco's request, Zúñiga +made a careful examination of all matters pertaining to the expedition +to the Californias, and the result was not favorable to Vizcaino. The +new viceroy did not think that an enterprise which might involve results +of such vast importance should be entrusted to the leadership of a +person of such obscure position and limited capital. He also doubted if +Vizcaino had the resolution and capacity necessary for so great an +undertaking, and it appeared to him that if disorders should arise among +his men through lack of discipline, or if the natives of the country to +which he was going should repel him, the repute and royal authority of +the king would be in danger. On the other hand, there was the decision +of the court, the concession of the viceroy, and the fact that Vizcaino +had already been at expense in the matter. Zúñiga communicated his +doubts to the former viceroy, who, in his perplexity, submitted the +question to a theologian and a jurist, selected as the viceroy writes, +from the number of those whose opinions were entitled to the greatest +consideration. Their decision was that the concession of the viceroy had +the force of an agreement and contract; that what was at first a favor +had become a right, and that, as the captain had manifested no +incapacity and had been guilty of no offense, the compact could not be +varied. The audiencia[2], before whom Zúñiga also laid the matter, was +of like opinion. In view, therefore, of the length to which the affair +had gone, the viceroy resolved not to annul the contract but to do all +in his power to insure the success of the expedition. That Vizcaino's +soldiers might respect and esteem him, the viceroy clothed him with +authority and showed him the greatest honor. He required Vizcaino to +furnish him with complete memorandums and inventories of the ships and +lanchas he intended to take with him, with their sails and tackle, the +number of people, and the provisions for them, arms, ammunition, and all +other property, and he instructed the royal officers at Acapulco that +the expedition must not be permitted to sail until it was fully provided +with everything necessary for the voyage and the safety of the people. +The Council of the Indies, on receiving Zúñiga's report, ordered him to +cancel Vizcaino's commission and select another leader for the +expedition, but before this order could reach the viceroy, Vizcaino had +sailed. The expedition consisted of the flagship San Francisco, six +hundred tons; the San José, a smaller ship, under command of Captain +Rodrigo de Figueroa, and a lancha. Vizcaino sailed from Acapulco in +March, 1596. His first stop was at the port of Calagua on the coast of +Colima, where he took on some of his people and stores, and to this +point the watchful viceroy sent a personal representative to see that +Vizcaino complied with all of his requirements, and to report on the +conduct of his soldiers. From here Vizcaino sailed northwest to Cape +Corrientes, thence northerly to the Islands of San Juan de Mazatlan. +From Mazatlan he bore west-northwest across the Gulf of California and +landed in a large bay which he named San Felipe, afterwards known as the +Bay of Cerralbo. From here he went to La Paz bay, which he so named +because of the peaceful character of the Indians, who received him +hospitably with presents of fish, game, and fruits. This was, it is +supposed, the place where Jimenez, the discoverer of California, lost +his life in 1533, and where Córtez planted his ill-fated colony two +years later. In entering the bay, the flagship ran on a shoal, and they +were obliged to cut away her masts and lighten her of her cargo of +provisions, a great part of which was wet and lost. Here Vizcaino landed +and built a stockade fort, and leaving the dismantled flagship and the +married men of his company under command of his lieutenant, Figueroa, he +sailed on October 3rd, with the San José and the lancha and eighty men +to explore the gulf. He encountered severe storms which separated his +vessels, and not having proper discipline among his men, had trouble +with the Indians of the coast, during which nineteen men were lost by +the overturning of the ship's long boat. He turned back to La Paz, where +his men, disheartened by the storms and the loss of their comrades, +demanded to be returned to New Spain. His stock of provisions was +running low, and putting the disaffected on the flagship and the lancha, +he sent them back, and with the San José and forty of the more +adventurous of the men, again sailed, on October 28th, for the +headwaters of the gulf. For sixty-six days he battled against strong +north winds, and only succeeded in reaching latitude twenty-nine; then +yielding to the demands of his men, he sailed for the port of the Isles +of Mazatlan. + +The results of the expedition did not add to Vizcaino's reputation, but +he made a most glowing report of his discoveries. He told of a land +double the extent of New Spain and in situation much preferable; its +seas abounding in pearls of excellent quality and in fish of all kinds, +in quantity greater than was contained in any other discovered sea; +while in the interior of the land, some twenty days' journey to the +northwest, were people who lived in towns, wore clothes, had gold and +silver ornaments, cloaks of cotton, maize and provisions, fowls of the +country (turkeys), and of Castile (chickens); thus the Indians told him +- not only in one place but in many. He desired permission to make +another voyage, and as the late expedition had exhausted his own +resources, asked that he be granted thirty-five thousand dollars from +the royal treasury and outfitting for his ships. These advances he +agreed to repay from the first gain received by him during the voyage. +He also asked, on behalf of those who accompanied him, that the +countries brought by him into subjection to the crown be given to them +encomienda for five lives[3]; that they be made gentlemen and granted +all the favors, exemptions, and liberties that other gentlemen enjoy, +not only in the provinces of the Indies but also in Spain. For these and +for other favors asked, Vizcaino agreed to sail with five ships, +equipped with proper artillery, one hundred and fifty men, arms and +ammunition, provisions, etc. - all things necessary for the voyage. He +would pay the king one-fifth part of all gold, precious stones and +valuable mineral substances obtained, one-tenth part of the fish taken, +and one-twentieth part of the salt obtained. He also agreed to make +discovery of the whole ensenada and gulf of the Californias, take +possession of the land in the name of his majesty, make settlements, +build forts, and explore the country inland for a distance of one +hundred leagues. + +Vizcaino's rose-colored report did not deceive the authorities, but as +he had the necessary outfit and had had some experience, the Council +decided that he was the best man to head the expedition, though Zúñiga +favored Don Gabriel Maldonado, of Saville, for commander. The Council +ordered that Vizcaino be supplied from the royal treasury with all +necessary funds; it granted the boon of encomienda for three lives, and +that the discoverers should have all the privileges of gentlemen +throughout the Indies. It also granted other minor privileges and boons +asked for. Vizcaino was made captain-general of the expedition, and +sailed from Acapulco May 5, 1602, with orders to explore the coasts of +the Californias from Cape San Lucas to Cape Mendocino, or as far north +as latitude forty-two. His ships were the San Diego, flagship, the Santo +Tomas, under Toríbio Gomez de Corvan, the Tres Reyes, a small fragata or +tender, under Alférez Martin Aguilar, and a barcolongo for exploring +rivers and bays[4]. The chief pilot of the expedition was Francisco +Bolaños who had been one of the pilots with Cermeñon on the lost San +Agustin. Three barefooted Carmelites looked after the spiritual needs of +the adventurers. The story of this second voyage of Vizcaino is well +known. On the 10th of November, they were in the Bay of San Diego, which +Vizcaino named for San Diego de Alcalá, whose day, November 14th, they +spent in the bay, ignoring the name, San Miguel, given it by Cabrillo +sixty years before. Later in the month he entered and named San Pedro +bay, for Saint Peter, bishop of Alexandria, whose day, November 26th, it +was. He also named the islands still known as Santa Catalina and San +Clemente. He next sailed through and named the Canal de Santa Barbara, +which saint's day, December 4th, was observed while in the channel, and +also named Isla de Santa Barbara and Isla de San Nicolas. Passing Punta +de la Concepcion, which he named[5], Vizcaino sailed up the coast in a +thick fog, which lifting on December 14th, revealed to the voyagers the +lofty coast range usually sighted by the ships coming from the +Philippines. Four leagues beyond they saw a river flowing from high +hills through a beautiful valley to the sea. To the mountains he gave +the name of Sierra de la Santa Lucia, in honor of the Saint whose day +(December 13th) they had just celebrated, and the stream he named Rio +del Cármelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars. Rounding a high wooded +point, which he named Punta de los Pinos, he dropped anchor in Monterey +bay, December 16th, 1602. Here Vizcaino found the much desired harbor of +refuge, and he named it for his patron, the Conde de Monterey. Vizcaino +made the most of his discovery, and in a letter to the king, written in +Monterey Bay, December 28, 1602[6], he gives a most glowing description +of the bay, which is, at best, but an open roadstead. The Indians, as +usual, told him of large cities in the interior, which they invited him +to visit, but Vizcaino could not tarry. His provisions were almost gone, +his men were sick with scurvy, of which many had died, and putting the +most helpless on board the Santo Tomas, he sent her to Acapulco for aid, +and sailed, January 3, 1603, with the flagship and fragata, for the +north. A storm soon separated the vessels and they did not see each +other again until they met in the harbor of Acapulco. Vizcaino was told +by the pilot, Bolaños, that Cermeñon had left in Drake's Bay a large +quantity of wax and several chests of silk, and he entered the bay on +January 8th to see if any vestiges remained of ship or cargo. He did not +land, but awaited the arrival of the fragata. As she did not appear, he +became uneasy, and sailed the next morning in search of her. On the +13th, a violent gale from the southeast drove him northward. This was +followed by a dense fog, and when it lifted, he found himself in +latitude forty-two - the limit of his instructions - with Cape Blanco in +sight, "and the trend of the coast line onward," he writes, "towards +Japan and Great China, which are but a short run away." Only six of his +men were now able to keep the deck, and he bore away for Acapulco, where +he arrived March 21, 1603. Of the company that sailed with him, +forty-two had died. + +In 1606, Philip III, King of Spain, ordered that Monterey be occupied +and provision made there to succor and refit the Philippine ships. He +directed that to Vizcaino should be given the command of the expedition. +His orders were not carried out and Vizcaino sailed instead for Japan, +whence he returned in 1613, and died three years later. + +For over one hundred and sixty years, no steps were taken for the +pacification and settlement of Alta California. The galleons continued +to make their yearly voyages to the Philippines, and returning, sail +down the coast within sight of the fair land; but no harbor of refuge +was established and no attempt was made to colonize the country. + +At last the Spanish king began to realize that if he would retain his +possessions in America, some action was necessary for their protection. +Spanish sovereignty in the Pacific was threatened. The Russians had +crossed Bering Sea, had established themselves on the coast of Alaska, +and their hunters were extending their pursuit of the sea otter into +more southern waters. England had wrested Canada from France and was +ready to turn her attention to the American possessions of Spain. The +Family Compact of the Bourbon princes of France, Spain, and Italy had +aroused the ire of Pitt, then at the zenith of his fame, and he resolved +to demand an explanation from Spain, and, failing to receive it, attack +her at home and abroad before she was prepared, declaring that it was +time for humbling the whole house of Bourbon. A check in the cabinet +caused Pitt's resignation, but in 1766 he was again restored to power +with vigor and arrogance unabated. + +On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of Spain issued his famous decree +expelling the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions. This society had +established a number of missions in Lower California, and Don Gaspar de +Portolá, a captain of dragoons of the Regiment of Spain, was appointed +governor of the Californias and sailed from Tepic with twenty-five +dragoons, twenty-five infantry, and fourteen Franciscan friars to +dispossess the Jesuits and turn the California missions over to the +Franciscans. + +The king having been warned of the advance of the Russians upon the +northern coasts of California, ordered the viceroy of New Spain to take +effective measures to guard that part of his dominions from danger of +invasion and insult. While the viceroy was casting about to find a +person of sufficient importance and ability to organize and carry out so +great an undertaking, Don José de Galvez, visitador-general of the +kingdom and member of the Council of the Indies, offered his services +and volunteered to go to Lower California and effect the organization +and equipment of the expedition. His services were eagerly accepted, and +Galvez set out from the City of Mexico, April 9, 1768, for San Blas, on +the coast of New Galicia. Before arriving at that port, he was overtaken +by a courier from the viceroy bringing orders just received from the +court directing that a maritime expedition should be at once dispatched +to Monterey and that port fortified. Convening the Junta at San Blas on +the 16th of May, 1768, the señor visitador laid before them the +situation and the wishes of the king. He stated that on the exterior or +occidental coasts of the Californias, Spain claimed from Cape San Lucas +on the south to the Rio de los Reyes[7] in 43 degrees, though the only +portion occupied was from Cape San Lucas up to 30° 30'.[8] The civilized +or Christian portion of the community (gente de razon - people of +reason) did not, he said, number more than four hundred souls, including +the families of the soldiers of the garrison of Loreto and those of the +miners in the south; that if foreigners of any nation were to establish +themselves in the celebrated ports of San Diego and Monterey, they might +fortify themselves there before the government could receive notice of +it. In all the Sea of the South that washes the shores of New Spain +there were no other vessels than the two packet-boats recently built in +San Blas, the San Carlos and the San Antonio, and two others of small +tonnage which served the Jesuit missionaries in their communications +between California and the coast of Sonora. In these few ships consisted +all the maritime forces which could have been opposed to foreign +invasion. All this Galvez laid before the Junta, there being present the +commandant of the department and the army officers and pilots who +chanced to be there. It was resolved to send an expedition by sea in the +San Carlos and San Antonio, and orders were made to prepare the ships, +while Galvez proceeded to the peninsula to attend to the gathering of +supplies and provisions. All the missions of Lower California were laid +under contribution of vestments and sacred vessels for the new missions +to be established, also dried fruits, wine, oil, riding horses and mule +herd; for Galvez had decided to supplement the maritime expedition by +one by land, lest the infinite risks and dangers attending a long +sea-voyage should render the attempt abortive. The governor, Don Gaspar +de Portolá, volunteered to lead the expedition, and he was named +commander-in-chief. Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncado, captain of the +presidio of Loreto, was appointed second in command. The troops were +composed of forty cavalrymen from the presidio of Loreto in Lower +California, under Rivera, and twenty-five infantrymen of the compania +franca of Catalonia, under Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages. To the presidial +troops were joined thirty Christian Indians from the missions, armed +with bows and arrows. These were intended for the land expedition. The +mission of Santa Maria, the northernmost mission on the peninsula, was +the rendezvous of the land forces, and from Loreto four lighters loaded +with provisions for the land expedition were sent up the gulf to the bay +of San Luis Gonzaga, the nearest point to the mission of Santa Maria, +whither also went by land the troops, muleteers, and vaqueros, with the +herd of every sort. Finding insufficient pasturage for the cattle at +Santa Maria, they advanced to Velicatá, some thirty miles distant, and +here was assembled the land expedition. In addition to the officers +named, Don Miguel Costansó, ensign of royal engineers, was ordered to +join the expedition as cosmographer and diarist, and Don Pedro Prat was +appointed physician. To minister to the soldiers and take charge of the +missions to be established in the new land, the following missionary +priests, all of the college of San Fernando in Mexico, were named to +accompany the expedition. Fray Junípero Serra, appointed president of +the missions of Alta California, Fray Juan Crespi, Fray Fernando Parron, +Fray Juan Vizcaino, and Fray Francisco Gomez. + +On the 6th of January, 1769, at the port of La Paz, the San Carlos was +loaded and ready for sea. The venerable Father Junípero Serra sang mass +aboard her, and with other devotional exercises blessed the ship and the +standards. The visitador named the Señor San José patron of the +expedition, and in a fervent exhortation, kindled the spirits of those +about to sail. These were Don Pedro Fages, with his twenty-five Catalans +of the 1st batallion 2d regiment, Voluntarios de Cataluna, Alférez +Miguel Costansó, Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Padre Fernando Parron. The +ship was commanded by Don Vicente Vila, lieutenant of the royal navy; +the mate was Don Jorge Estorace, and twenty-three sailors, two boys, +four cooks, and two blacksmiths made up the rest of the ship's company - +sixty-two in all. They embarked on the night of January 9th and sailed +on the 10th. Galvez appointed Fages gefe de las armas - chief of the +military expedition at sea, and instructed him to retain command of the +soldiers on land until the arrival of the governor at Monterey[9]. On +the 15th of February, Father Junípero performed like offices for the San +Antonio, and she sailed the same day under command of Don Juan Perez, +"of the navigation of the Philippines," carrying Frays Vizcaino and +Gomez, some carpenters, blacksmiths, and cooks, that, with the sailors, +made some ninety persons, all told, on both ships. The rendezvous was +San Diego bay, where all were to meet. + +The land expedition was divided into two parts. The first division, +under Rivera, started from Velicatá March 24th, and the second, under +command of the governor, started May 15th. With Rivera were Padre +Crespi, Pilotin (Mate) Jose Cañizares. Twenty-five soldados de +cuera[10], three muleteers, and eleven Christian Indians - forty-two +men. With the governor marched Junípero Serra, fifteen soldados de +cuera, under Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega, two servants, muleteers +and Indians - forty-four in all. The previous day, May 14, 1769, being +Easter Sunday, Junípero established the Mission of San Fernando with +Fray Miguel de la Campa as Minister. For the succor and relief of the +forces, both sea and land, Galvez built, at San Blas, a ship which he +named in honor of the protector of the expedition, the San Jose, and +loading her with supplies and provisions, sent her with orders to meet +the expedition at Monterey. She was lost at sea. + +There is very little of interest in this march of some two hundred miles +through a barren country to the bay of San Diego. Junípero's diary lies +before me[11]; it is a dreary recital of small incidents of the march, the +Indians they met, the barrancas they crossed, with pious comments, etc.; +no course, no distances traveled, or other like information necessary to +an understanding of the route and country. As a diarist, he is not to be +compared with Crespi. On June 20th they came first in sight of the sea +at the Ensenada de Todos Santos; thence their journey was by the sea +until they came to the rendezvous. As they drew near to San Diego, their +Indian allies began to desert, evidently in fear of the Diegueños, whom +they began to meet in numbers and who proved a rascally lot. They +thronged the camp and became a perfect nuisance with their begging and +stealing. They begged from Junípero his robe and from the governor his +cuera, waistcoat, breeches, and all he had on. One of them succeeding in +inducing Junípero to take off his spectacles to show them to him and as +soon as he got them in his hands made off with them, causing the priest +a thousand difficulties to recover them. On the 27th of June Sergeant +Ortega, with his scouts, pushed on to San Diego and announced to the +anxious camp the proximity of the governor. Rivera sent ten of his +soldiers with fresh horses back with Ortega, and Portolá, in advance of +his command, reached the camp June 29th, and the entire division +arrived, June 30th, in good order and condition, forty-six days from +Velicatá. + +Let us anticipate their arrival and ascertain the fate of the other +divisions of the expedition. For more than a century and a half the +placid waters of San Diego bay had lain undisturbed by any craft more +formidable than the tule rafts (balsas de enea) of the natives, when on +the 11th of April, 1769, a silent ship slowly entered the bay and +dropped her anchor not far from the point where now the ferry boat for +Coronado leaves the slip. It was the San Antonio, the first arrival at +the rendezvous. No attempt was made to land, for they were alone and +dread scurvy had them in its grip. Two had died, and most of the ship's +company were sick. On the 29th, the San Carlos arrived, 110 days from La +Paz, with her company in even worse condition. All were sick, some had +died, and only four sailors remained on their feet, aided in working the +ship by such of the soldiers as were able to help. She had been driven +far out of her course; had found herself short of water, and had to put +into the island of Cedros to supply herself, and it was with the +greatest difficulty she reached the bay of San Diego. The first thing to +be done was to find good water and to minister to the sick. For this +purpose there landed, on May 1st, Don Pedro Fages, Don Miguel Costansó, +and Don Jorge Estorace, with twenty-five men-soldiers, sailors, etc., +all who were able to do duty, and, proceeding up the shore, found, by +direction of some Indians, a river of good mountain water at a distance +of three leagues to the northeast. Moving their ships as near as they +could, they prepared on the beach a camp, which they surrounded with a +parapet of earth and fascines, and mounted two cannon. Within they made +two large hospital tents from the sails and awnings of the ships, and +set up the tents of the officers and priests. Then they transferred the +sick. The labor was immense, for all were sick, and the list of those +able to perform duty daily grew smaller. The difficulties of their +situation were very great. Nearly all the medicines and food had been +consumed during the long voyage, and Don Pedro Prat, the surgeon, +himself sick with scurvy, sought in the fields with a thousand anxieties +some healing herbs, of which he himself was in as sore need as the +others. The cold made itself felt with vigor at night and the sun burned +them by day - alternations which made the sick suffer cruelly, two or +three of them dying every day, until the whole sea expedition which had +been composed of more than ninety men, found itself reduced to eight +soldiers and as many sailors in a state to attend to the safeguarding of +the ships, the working of the launches, the custody of the camp, and the +care of the sick. + +There was no news whatever of the land divisions. The neighborhood of +the fort was diligently searched for tracks of a horse herd, but none +were discovered. They did not know what to think of this delay. At +length, on the 14th of May, the Indians gave notice to some soldiers on +the beach that from the direction of the south men mounted on horses and +armed as they, were coming. It was the first land division under Rivera, +fifty days from Velicatá, without the loss of a man or having a sick +one; but they were on half rations; they had only three sacks of flour +left and were issuing two tortillas[12] per day to each man. Great was +the rejoicing in the camp of the sick over the arrival of Rivera's +force. It was now resolved to remove the camp near to the river. This +was done, and a new camp established on a hill in what is now known as +"Old Town," where a stockade was made and the cannon mounted. The +surgeon, Pedro Prat, devoted himself to the sick, but the deaths +continued, until of the ninety and more who had sailed from La Paz, +two-thirds were laid under the sand of Punta de los Muertos[13]. It was +now thought best to send one of the packets to San Blas to inform the +viceroy and the visitador of the state of the expedition, and it was +feared that if this were longer delayed, the ship would be unable to put +to sea for lack of mariners. The San Antonio was selected for this +purpose, and was prepared for sea, but as she was about to sail, the +camp was thrown into an ecstasy of joy by the arrival of Portolá and the +second division, sound in body, and with 163 mules laden with +provisions. The governor promptly informed himself of the condition of +affairs, and desirous that the señor visitador's orders concerning the +sea expedition should be carried out, offered to Captain Vila of the San +Carlos sixteen men of his command to work the ship, that he might pursue +the voyage to Monterey. As Vila had lost all his ship's officers, +boatswain, storekeeper, coxswain of the launch, and there was not a +sailor among the men offered by Portolá, he declined to go to sea under +such conditions. All the available sailors were therefore placed on +board the San Antonio, and she sailed for San Blas, June 8th, with eight +men only for a crew. + +The governor now proceeded to organize his force for the march to +Monterey. He determined to move at once, lest the advancing season +should expose them to the danger of having the passes of the sierra +closed by snow, as even at San Diego those who came by sea reported the +sierras covered with snow on their arrival in April. + +On the 14th of July, Portolá began his march to Monterey, distant one +hundred and fifty-nine leagues. His force consisted of Sergeant Ortega, +with twenty-seven soldados de cuera under Rivera, Fages with six Catalan +volunteers - all that could travel, Ensign Costansó, the priests, Crespi +and Gomez, seven muleteers, fifteen Christian Indians from the missions +of Lower California, and two servants - sixty-four in all. Both Fages +and Costansó were sick with scurvy, but joined the command +notwithstanding. The personnel of this expedition contains some of the +best known names in California. Portolá, the first governor; Rivera, +comandante of California from 1773 to 1777, killed in the Yuma revolt on +the Colorado in 1781; Fages, first comandante of California, 1769-1773, +governor, 1782-1790; Ortega, pathfinder, explorer, discoverer of the +Golden Gate and of Carquines Strait[14]; lieutenant and brevet captain, +comandante of the presidio of San Diego, of Santa Barbara, and of +Monterey; founder of the presidio of Santa Barbara and of the missions +of San Juan Capistrano and San Buenaventura. Among the rank and file +were men whose names are not less known: Pedro Amador, who gave his name +to Amador county; Juan Bautista Alvarado, grandfather of Governor +Alvarado; José Raimundo Carrillo, later alférez, lieutenant, and +captain, comandante of the presidio of Monterey, of Santa Barbara, and +of San Diego, and founder of the great Carrillo family; José Antonio +Yorba, sergeant of Catalonia volunteers, founder of the family of that +name and grantee of the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana; Pablo de Cota, +José Ignacio Oliveras, José Maria Soberanes, and others. + +At San Diego, Portolá left the sick under the care of the faithful +surgeon, Prat, and a guard of ten cuera soldiers; Captain Vila of the +San Carlos, with a few seamen; Frays Junípero Serra, Juan Vizcaino, and +Fernando Parron, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and a few Lower California +Indians, some forty persons in all. The governor also left with them a +sufficient number of horses and mules and about sixty loads[15] of +provisions. On July 16th, two days after the Portolá expedition started, +Junípero founded, with appropriate ceremonies, the mission of San Diego +de Alcalá, the first mission established in Alta California. The deaths +continued, and before Portolá's return in January, eight soldiers, four +sailors, one servant, and eight Indians died, leaving but about twenty +persons at the camp. + +We will now follow the governor. Relying somewhat on the supply ship, +San Jose, which was to meet him at Monterey, but which, as we have seen, +was lost at sea, and also on the supplies to be brought by the San +Antonio, the governor, knowing the uncertainties of a sea voyage, took +with him one hundred mules loaded with provisions, sufficient, he +concluded, to last him for six months. + +On the march the following order was observed. Sergeant Ortega, with six +or eight soldiers, went in advance, laid out the route, selected the +camping place, and cleared the way of hostile Indians by whom he was +frequently surrounded. At the head of the column rode the comandante, +with Fages, Costansó, the two priests, and an escort of six Catalonia +volunteers; next came the sappers and miners, composed of Indians, with +spades, mattocks, crowbars, axes, and other implements used by pioneers; +these were followed by the main body divided into four bands of +pack-animals, each with its muleteers and a guard of presidial soldiers. +The last was the rear guard, commanded by Captain Rivera, convoying the +spare horses and mules (caballada y mulada). + +The presidial soldiers were provided with two kinds of arms, offensive +and defensive. The defensive consisted of the cuera (leather jacket) and +the adarga (shield)[16]. The first, being made in the form of a coat +without sleeves, was composed of six or seven thicknesses of dressed +deer skins impervious to the Indian arrows, except at very short range. +The adarga was of two thicknesses of raw bulls-hide, borne on the left +arm, and so managed by the trooper as to defend himself and his horse +against the arrows and spears of the Indians; in addition, they used a +species of apron of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with +a fall to each side of the horse down to the stirrup, wide enough to +cover the thigh and a leg of the horseman, and protect him when riding +through the brush. This apron was called the armas. Their offensive arms +were the lance, which they managed with great dexterity on horseback, +the broadsword, and a short musket, carried in a case. Costansó, who was +an officer of the regular army, bears testimony to the unceasing labor +of the presidial soldiers of California on this march, and says they +were men capable of enduring much fatigue, obedient, resolute, and +active; "and it is not too much to say that they are the best horsemen +in the world, and among the best soldiers who gain their bread in the +service of the king."[17] + +It must be understood that the marches of these troops with such a train +through an unknown country and by unused paths, could not be long ones. +It was necessary to explore the land one day for the march of the next, +and the camp for the day was sometimes regulated by the distance to be +traveled to the next place where water, fuel, and pastures could be had. +The distance made was from two to four leagues[18], and the command +rested every four days, more or less, according to the fatigue caused +by the roughness of the road, the toil of the pioneers, the wandering +off of the beasts, or the necessities of the sick. Costansó says that +one of their greatest difficulties was in the control of their caballada +(horse-herd), without which the journey could not be made. In a country +they do not know, horses frighten themselves by night in the most +incredible manner. To stampede them, it is enough for them to discover a +coyote or fox. The flight of a bird, the dust flung by the wind-any of +these are capable of terrifying them and causing them to run many +leagues, precipitating themselves over barrancas and precipices, without +any human effort availing to restrain them. Afterwards it costs immense +toil to gather them again, and those that are not killed or crippled, +remain of no service for some time. In the form and manner stated, the +Spaniards made their marches, traversing immense lands, which grew more +fertile and pleasing as they progressed northward. + +The expedition followed practically the route which afterwards became +the Camino Real. Its fourth jornada (day's journey) brought it to the +pretty valley where later was established the mission of San Luis Rey. +They called it San Juan Capistrano, but that name was afterwards +transferred to a mission forty miles north of this place. The command +rested here, July 19th. Resuming the march on the 20th, the sierra (San +Onofre), whose base they were skirting, drew so near the sea that it +seemed to threaten their advance, but by keeping close to the shore, +they held their way, and on the 24th they encamped on a fine stream of +water running through a mesa at the foot of a sierra, whence looking +across the sea, they could descry Santa Catalina Island. This was San +Juan Capistrano, and here they rested on the 25th. On the 28th they +reached the Santa Ana river, near the present town of that name; a +violent shock of earthquake which they experienced caused them to name +the river Jesus de los Temblores[19]. July 30th and 31st they were in +the San Gabriel valley, which they called San Miguel, and on August 1st +they rested near the site of the present city of Los Angeles. The stop +this day, in addition to the needed rest and the necessity for +exploration, was to give opportunity for the soldiers and people of the +expedition to gain the great indulgence of Porciúncula.[20] The priests +said mass and the sacrament was administered. In the afternoon the +soldiers went to hunt and brought in an antelope (barrendo), with which +the land seemed to abound. The next day they crossed the Los Angeles +river by the site of the present city, and named it Rio de Nuestra +Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula[21]. Passing up the river, they +went through the cañon and came into the San Fernando valley, which they +called Valle de Santa Catalina de los Encinos - Valley of St. Catherine +of the Oaks. Five days they spent in the valley, and crossing the Santa +Susana mountains, perhaps by the Tapo cañon, they came to the Santa +Clara river near the site of Camulos, and there rested, August 9th. +Portolá named the river Santa Clara, which name it still bears, in honor +of the saint, whose day, August 12th, was observed by them. Five days, +by easy jornadas, they traveled down the river, and arrived on the 14th +at the first rancheria[22] of the Channel Indians. It being the vespers +of the feast of La Asuncion de Nuestra Señora, Portolá named the village +La Asuncion. It contained about thirty large, well-constructed houses of +clay and rushes, and each house held three or four families. These +Indians were of good size, well-formed, active, industrious, and very +skillful in constructing boats, wooden bowls, and other articles. +Portolá thought this pueblo must be the one named by Cabrillo, Pueblo de +Canoas (Pueblo of the Boats). This was the site selected for the mission +of San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. The natives received them +kindly, gave them an abundance of food, and showed them their well-made +boats, twenty-four feet long, made of pine boards tied together with +cords and covered with asphaltum, and capable of carrying ten men each. +The next four days they followed the beach and camped, on August 18th, +at a large laguna, called by them La Laguna de la Concepcion. This was +the site of the future presidio and mission of Santa Barbara. Everywhere +were large populous rancherías of the Indians, and everywhere they were +received in the most hospitable manner and provided with more food than +they could eat. The next stop was three leagues beyond, on the shore of +a large lagoon and marsh, containing a good-sized island on which was a +large ranchería, while four others lined the banks of the lagoon. +Portolá gave to this group the name In Mediaciones de las Rancherías de +Mescaltitan - The Contiguous Rancherías of Mescaltitan. The name of +Mescaltitan is still attached to the island, though the marsh is mostly +drained and contains some of the finest walnut groves in California. On +the 28th, they turned Point Concepcion and camped just north at a place +called by them Paraje de los Pedernales. Point Pedernales, about five +miles beyond, preserves the name. On the 30th they crossed a large +river, which they named the Santa Rosa, in honor of that saint, whose +day it was. This is now the Santa Inez, so called from the mission of +that name, established on its bank in 1804. Passing northward along the +beach, a sharp spur of the sierra jutting out at Point Sal turned them +inland through the little pass followed by the Southern Pacific Coast +Line, and they came, on September 10th, to a large lake in the northwest +corner of Santa Barbara county, to which was given the name of Laguna +Larga, now known as Guadalupe Lake. Three leagues beyond, they camped at +a lake named by Costansó, Laguna Redonda, but which the soldiers called +El Oso Flaco - The Thin Bear - and it is still known by that name. Here +Sergeant Ortega was taken ill, and ten of the soldiers complained of +sore feet. They rested on the 3d, and on the 4th reached the mouth of +the San Luis cañon. Here they were hospitably received by the chief of a +large ranchería, whose appearance caused the soldiers to apply to him +the name of "El Buchon," he having a large tumor hanging from his neck. +Father Crespi did not approve of the name which the soldiers applied to +the chief, his ranchería, and to the cañon leading up to San Luis +Obispo, and he named the village San Ladislao. As in so many cases the +good father was unable to make the name he gave stick, the saint has +been ignored, but Point Buchon, just above Point Harford and Mount +Buchon, otherwise known as Bald Knob, bear witness to the staying +qualities of the tumor on the chief's neck. Passing up the narrow cañon +of San Luis creek, they camped at or near the site of the mission and +city of San Luis Obispo. From here, instead of proceeding over the +Sierra de Santa Lucia by the Cuesta pass into the upper Salinas valley, +whence the march to Monterey would have been easy, they turned to the +west and followed the Cañada de los Osos to the sea at Morro Bay, which +they called El Estero de San Serafin. The Cañada de los Osos[23], still +so called, they named because of a fight with some very fierce bears, +one of which they succeeded in killing after it had received nine balls. +Another wounded the mules, and the hunters with difficulty saved their +lives. + +The travelers now marched up the coast until, on the 13th, they came to +a point where further progress was disputed by the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. This was where a spur from the sierra terminating in Mount Mars, +blocks the passage by the beach and presents a bold front, rising three +thousand feet from the water. Camping at the foot of the sierra, Portolá +sent out the explorers under Rivera to find a passage through the +mountains. During the 14th and 15th, the pioneers labored to open a way +into the sierra through San Carpóforo cañon, and on the 16th the command +moved up the steep and narrow gulch, with inaccessible mountains on +either side. It is impossible to follow their route through this rugged +mountain range with any degree of accuracy. Their progress was slow and +painful. On the 20th, they toiled up an exceedingly high ridge to the +north, and from its summit the Spaniards looked upon a boundless sea of +mountains, "presenting," writes Crespi, "a sad prospect to us poor +travelers worn out with the fatigue of the journey." The cold was +beginning to be severe, and many of the men were suffering from scurvy +and unfit for service, which increased the hardship for all; yet they +did not falter but pressed bravely on, and on the 26th emerged from the +mountains by the Arroyo Seco, which they named the Cañada del Palo +Caido[24] (Valley of the Fallen Tree), and camped on the Salinas river, +which they christened Rio de San Elizario. From now on the march is an +easy one down the Salinas valley to the sea. + +On the last day of September, the command halted near the mouth of the +Salinas river, within sound of the ocean, though they could not see it. +They were persuaded that they were not far from the desired port of +Monterey and that the mountain range they had crossed was unquestionably +that of the Santa Lucia, described by Torquemada in his history of the +voyage of Vizcaino, and shown on the chart of the pilot Cabrera Bueno. +The governor ordered the explorers to go out and ascertain on what part +of the coast they were. On the morrow, Rivera, with eight soldiers, +explored the coast to the southward, marching along the shore of the +very port they were seeking, while Portolá, with Costansó, Crespi, and +five soldiers, climbed a hill from whose top they saw a great ensenada, +the northern point of which extended a long way into the sea, and bore +northwest at a distance of eight maritime leagues, while on the south a +hill ran out into the sea in the form of a point, and appeared to be +wooded with pines. They recognized the one on the north as the Punta de +Año Nuevo and that on the south as Punta de Pinos, while between the two +lay the great ensenada[25], with its dreary sand dunes. This was as laid +down in the coast pilot (derretero) of Cabrera Bueno, but where was the +famous port of Monterey? + +They thought that perhaps they had passed Monterey in the great circuit +they had made through the mountain ranges. For three days the search was +continued. Rivera reported that south of the Point of Pines and between +it and another point to the south (Point Cármelo) was a small ensenada, +where a stream of water came down from the mountains and emptied into an +estero; that beyond this the coast was so high and impenetrable they +were obliged to turn back, and he believed that it was the same sierra +which compelled them to leave the coast on the 16th of September. + +Much perplexed by these reports, the governor called a council of +officers to deliberate as to the best course to pursue. On Wednesday, +October 4th, the council met and after hearing mass, the commander laid +the matter before them. He set forth the shortness of their store of +provisions, the seventeen men on the sick list, unfit for duty, the +excessive burden of labor imposed on the rest in sentinel duty, care of +the animals, and continual explorations, and to the lateness of the +season. In view of these circumstances, and of the fact that the port of +Monterey could not be found where it was said to be, each person present +was called upon to express freely his opinion. + +Costansó spoke first; Vizcaino had put Monterey in 37°; they had only +reached 36° 42'; they should not fail to explore up to 37° 30', so as +either to find the port or decide it did not exist. Fages was for going +up to 37° or a little more. Rivera thought they should establish +themselves somewhere. Then the resolute commander determined to go +forward and put his trust in God. If they found the desired port of +Monterey and therein the supply-ship San Jose, all would be well. If +Monterey did not appear, they would find a place for a settlement; but +if it should be the will of God that all were to perish, they would have +discharged their duty to God and man in laboring until death in their +endeavor to accomplish the enterprise on which they had been sent. To +this decision all agreed, and signed their names to the compact. + +Ortega and his scouts were now dispatched to lay out the route and +locate camping places for several days in advance, and on the 7th of +October, the march was resumed. Sixteen sick men had now lost use of +their limbs. Each night they were rubbed with oil, and each morning they +were put into hammocks swung between two mules, tandem, and thus carried +in the mode of travel used by the women of Andalusia[26]. The march was +slow and painful. Some of the sick were believed to be in the last +extremity, and on October 8th, the holy viaticum was administered to +three, who were thought to be dying. + +On this day they crossed the Rio del Pájaro, which they named because of +a great bird the Indians had killed and stuffed with straw, and which +measured seven feet and four inches from the tip of one wing to that of +the other. It was thought to be a royal eagle, and that the natives were +preparing it for some ceremony when they were frightened away by the +approach of the Spaniards. Crespi, who still had a supply of saints on +hand, gave the river the name La Señora Santa Ana, but again the saint +was ignored, and the river is known as the Pájaro (Bird). On the 17th +they crossed and named the Rio de San Lorenzo, at the site of the +present city of Santa Cruz. On the 20th they were at Punta de Año Nuevo, +and camped at the entrance of the cañon of Waddell creek. They +recognized Point Año Nuevo from the description given by Cabrera Bueno, +and Crespi estimated that it was one league distant from the camp. With +good water and fuel, the command rested here the 21st and 22d. Both +Portolá and Rivera were now added to the sick list. Meat and vegetables +had given out and the rations were reduced to five tortillas of bran and +flour per day. Crespi named the camp San Luis Beltran, while the +soldiers called it La Cañada de Salud. On the 23d, they again moved +forward, passing Punta de Año Nuevo and, traveling two leagues, camped +probably on Gazos creek, where was a large Indian ranchería, whose +inhabitants received them kindly. This camp, which was about opposite +Pigeon Point, they named Casa Grande, also San Juan Nepomuceno[27]. The +next jornada was a long one of four leagues, and their camp was on San +Gregoria creek. It began to rain and the command was prostrated by an +epidemic of diarrhoea which spared no one. They now thought they saw +their end, but the contrary appeared to be the case. The diarrhoea +seemed to relieve the scurvy, and the swollen limbs of the sufferers +began to be less painful. They named the camp Vane de los Soldados de +los Cursos, and Crespi applied the name of Santo Domingo to it. Unable +to travel on the 25th and 26th, but resuming the march October 27th, +they pressed forward. The next stop was Purisima creek, two short +leagues distant, but the way was rough, and the pioneers had to make +roads across three arroyos where the descents were steep and difficult +for the transportation of the invalids. On the bank of the stream was an +Indian ranchería, apparently deserted. The Spaniards took possession of +the huts, but soon came running forth with cries of "las pulgas! las +pulgas![28]" They preferred to camp in the open. The soldiers called +the camp Ranchería de las Pulgas, while Crespi named it San Ibon. On the +28th they camped on Pilarcitos creek, site of Spanish town or Half Moon +Bay. They named the camp El Llano de los Ansares - The Plain of the Wild +Geese - and Crespi called it San Simon y San Judas. Every man in the +command was ill; the medicines were nearly gone and the supply of food +very short. They contemplated killing some of the mules. That night it +rained heavily and Portolá, who was very ill, decided to rest on the +29th. On Monday, October 30th, they moved forward. Half Moon Bay and +Pillar Point were noted but no names given. Several deep arroyos were +crossed, some of which required the building of bridges to get the +animals over. They proceeded up the shore until a barrier of rock +confronted them and disputed the passage. Here in a rincon (corner) +formed by the sierra and. sheltered from the north wind they camped +while Ortega and his men were sent out to find a passage over the +Montara mountains. A little stream furnished them with water and they +named the camp El Rincon de las Almejas, on account of the mussels and +other shell fish they found on the rocks. Crespi calls it La Punta del +Angel Custodia. The site of the camp is about a mile north of the +Montara fog signal. By noon of the next day, October 31st, the pioneers +had prepared a passage over the bold promontory of Point San Pedro, and +at ten o'clock in the morning the company set out on the trail of the +exploradores and made their painful way to the summit. Here a wondrous +sight met their eyes and quickened their flagging spirits. Before them, +bright and beautiful, was spread a great ensenada, its waters dancing in +the sunlight. Far to the northwest a point reached out into the sea, +rising abruptly before them, high above the ocean. Further to the left, +west-northwest, were seen six or seven white Farallones and finally +along the shore northward they discerned the white cliffs and what +appeared to be the mouth of an inlet. There could be not mistake. The +distant point was the Punta de los Reyes and before them lay the Bahía ó +Puerto de San Francisco. The saint had been good to them and with joy in +their hearts they made the steep and difficult descent and camped in the +San Pedro valley[29] at the foot of the Montara mountains. + +Some of the company thought they had left the Port of Monterey behind +but would not believe they had reached the Port of San Francisco. To +settle the matter, the governor ordered Ortega and his men to examine +the country as far as Point Reyes, giving them three days in which to +report, while the command remained in camp in the Vallecito de la Punta +de las Almejas del Angel de la Guarda, as Crespi calls it, combining the +two names of the camp of October 30th and transferring them to the camp +in San Pedro valley. + +The next day, Thursday, November 2nd, being All Souls day, after mass +some of the soldiers asked permission to go and hunt for deer. They +climbed the mountains east of the camp and returning after nightfall +reported that they had seen from the top of the mountain an immense +estero or arm of the sea, which thrust itself into the land as far as +the eye could reach, stretching to the southeast; that they had seen +some beautiful plains thickly covered with trees, while the many columns +of smoke rising over them showed that they were well stocked with Indian +villages. This story confirmed them in the belief that they were at the +Port of San Francisco, and that the estero described was that spoken of +by Cabrera Bueno, the mouth of which they imagined they had seen from +the Montara mountains[30]. They were now satisfied that Ortega would be +unable to reach Point Reyes, and that three days was not sufficient time +to go around the head of such an estero. The exploring party returned in +the night of November 3d, discharging their fire-arms as they +approached. They reported that they found themselves obstructed by +immense estuaries which ran extraordinarily far back into the land[31], +but what caused their rejoicing was that they understood from the signs +of the Indians that at two days journey from where they were there was a +port in which a ship was anchored. On this announcement, some thought +that they were at the port of Monterey, and that the supply ship San +Jose or the San Carlos was waiting for them. Crespi says that if they +were not in Monterey, they were certainly in San Francisco. + +On Saturday, November 4th, being the day of San Carlos Borromeo, in +whose honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in +the Port of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que +Dios guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this +little valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father +San Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded +on the nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and, in +better spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their +march at one o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up +the beach, they turned into the mountains on their right, and from the +summit beheld the immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into +the Cañada de San Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and +traveling two leagues camped in the cañada at the foot of a hill, very +green with low brush, and having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next +two days they traveled down the cañada, coasting the estero, which they +could not see for the low hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the +pleasant land with its groves of oak, redwood (palo colorado), and +madroño. They saw the tracks of many deer and also of bears. The Indians +met them with friendly offers of black tamales and atole, which were +gladly received by the half-starved Spaniards. They begged the strangers +to go to their rancherías, but the governor excused himself, saying that +he must go forward, and dismissed them with presents of beads and +trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end of the cañada, which suddenly +turned to the east, and saw that the estero[32] was finished in a +spacious valley. To the cañada they gave the name of San Francisco[33]. +Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep +arroyo, whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately +into the estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site +of Stanford University[34]. + +Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route, +Portolá now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four days +in which to explore the country and find the port containing the +supply-ship. + +Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the +neighboring rancherías, set out after noon on November 7th and returned +in the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port +or ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the +Indians had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could +not be in advance. They also reported that the country they had seen +towards the north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for +the reason that the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition, were +hostile and would dispute the passage. They said that they had +encountered another immense estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait), +which also ran far inland and connected with the one on the southeast, +and that to double it would take many leagues of travel[35]. + +During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were +compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much +suffering from indigestion and fever. + +Portolá called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the +best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point +of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which +they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the +command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by the +route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of +Pines at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild +geese which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the +coast. The following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of +Pines and camped in the cañada of the Cármelo, where was plenty of wood +and good water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor +sent ten soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian +pioneers, who undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with +instructions to thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the +Port of Monterey was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. + +The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They +were tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and +they reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that +the mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was +no passage along the shore. + +Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa +Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a +station for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence +they make a landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all +winds * * * and is thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of +gentle disposition, peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like +that of Castile, and hemp, and cotton,"[36] etc. + +The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port, +protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the Rio +Cármelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but +lagunillas; "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile, +who raised flax and hemp and cotton?" Costansó says that in their entire +journey, they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people more +wild and savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is not +strange that Portolá failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada, +Vizcaino's Famoso Puerte de Monterey. + +The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply +was almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the +Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on +December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found +the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding +it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen +half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming +excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited +free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all +might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass, the +junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the +provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the +mules for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better +to divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San +Diego. Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented +difficulties. The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the +governor announced his determination. They would return to San Diego at +once, he said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the +whole expedition would be lost. + +A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of +December 9th, delaying the march. + +On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before +leaving Cármelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the +shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig; +at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a bottle +and buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the +expedition, its commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the +channel of Santa Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage of +the Santa Lucia mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point +Reyes, etc. + +"The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros +intervened which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go +around, and other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of +provisions), made it necessary for us to return, believing that the Port +of Monterey might perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and +thinking that we might have passed it without observing it. We left the +estero of San Francisco on our return on the 11th of November. We passed +the Punta de Año Nuevo on the 19th of said month, and reached the second +time this Port and Ensenada de Pinos on the 27th of the same." + +It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for +the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it, +their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows the +latitude at various points as observed by Costansó. It requests the +commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them, +should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of +the expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible, +that the expedition might sight and obtain succor from them. + +The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half, +and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another +cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they +ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming. +They killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and +on the 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers +stole flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided the +remainder among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a +mudhole near San Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it was +a feast day[37]. On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here, +among the Channel Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were +over, and the health of the command improved daily. Instead of following +up the Santa Clara river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains, into +the San Fernando valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river, +crossed the Santa Ana, January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24, +1770, with the command in good health and without the loss of a man, +"with the merit of having been compelled to eat the flesh of male and +female mules, and with not having found the Port of Monterey, which we +judged to have been filled up by the great sand dunes which were in the +place where we had expected to find it."[38] + +Portolá found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had +died, and Junípero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy. +No tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a +careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicatá +in case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be +exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of +March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure, +very much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera +was sent to Velicatá with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to +bring up the cattle and supplies that had been left there. + +After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a sail +appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to +prevent the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies, and +Portolá prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of +Monterey. Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of +the search were related to him, that the place where they erected the +second cross was the long-lost Port of Monterey. + +On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junípero, +Costansó, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th, +Portolá set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven +soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego +was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers +Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as +guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with +supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle. + +Portolá followed the same route that he took on the retreat from +Monterey, and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de +Pinos, near the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place +for the camp, Portolá took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and +went to the cross to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found +around the cross a ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which +were decked with feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them, +while at the foot of the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As +Portolá, Fages, and Crespi walked along the beach and looked out over +the bay and noted its calm and placid waters, with its swimming seals +and spouting whales, they broke forth with one voice, "This is the Port +of Monterey which we have sought. It is exactly as reported by Sebastian +Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."[39] + +Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Cármelo, Portolá +ordered the expedition to Cármelo Bay by direct line, while he, with +Fages and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it +well covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a +ship. They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress +Point), and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they +awaited the arrival of the San Antonio. + +On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made +signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had +dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors +to be a most famous port. + +On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where, +in 1602, Vizcaino's Cármelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de +Portolá, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition, +Fray Junípero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the +San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with +the crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father +president chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the +musical deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns of +the San Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the +conclusion of the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portolá, governor +of the Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his +majesty Don Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of +San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the +first presidio and second mission in California. + +In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portolá now +delivered to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command +of the new establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San +Blas, and California knew him no more. + + + +[1] Sierra de Santa Lucia. + +[2] Audiencia, the highest judicial body. + +[3] The system of encomienda conferred feudal rights upon the +discoverers. The Indians became vassals of Spanish lords. + +[4] Vizcaino says he set out on the discovery of the coast of the South +Sea with two ships, a lancha, and a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small +vessel having no deck and but one mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas +calls the vessel a fragata. A barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long +open boat. + +[5] The second voyage of Vizcaino is of particular interest to +Californians for the reason that the names given by him to the various +geographical features of the coast still remain. The particulars of the +first voyage are taken largely from the publications of the Southern +California Historical Society of documents in the Sutro collection. + +[6] Sutro Col. Pub. Southern California Hist. Socy. + +[7] Prof. George Davidson identifies the Rio de los Reyes as Rogue River +in 42° 25'. + +[8] About Cape San Quintin, the latitude of their northernmost mission. + +[9] Instruccion qua ha de observer el Teniente de Infanteria. Dn Pedro +Pages, 5 enero de 1769. Provincial State Papers; i, 38.9, Ms. Spanish +Archives of California. + +[10] So-called from the cuera, a leathern jacket worn by them as a +defensive armor. + +[11] Out West. March-July, 1902. + +[12] Pancakes. + +[13] Dead Men's Point. The name has disappeared from the modern maps, +but is found on all of the old ones. It is the foot of H street where +the cars for the Coronado ferry turn on to the wharf. + +[14] I am well aware that this claim will be disputed by one whose study +of original documents and power of analysis make him perhaps the +greatest authority on early California History; but I am nevertheless +prepared to maintain my position. + +[15] Carga, 275 lbs. + +[16] Hence the presidial soldiers were called Soldados de Cuera and so +distinguished from soldiers of the regular army. + +[17] Diario Historico de los viages de Mar y de tierra hichos al norte +de la California. Ms. Original in Sutro Library. + +[18] The league is the Spanish league of 5,000 varas. 2.63 miles. + +[19] They also gave it the name of Santa Ana, whose day, July 26th, +they had just observed. + +[20] Sometimes called the Grand Pardon of Assisi - the great indulgence +of the Franciscans. Originally granted to St. Francis for the Church of +Our Lady of the Angeles of Porciúncula, it was, by apostolic indult, +expanded to accompany the child of St. Francis wherever he may be. It is +enough for him to erect an altar and that altar will be to him St. Mary +of the Angels, and he will there find the Porciúncula of the +revelations. Whoso confesses and receives the sacrament in the church of +Porciúncula is granted plenary remission of his sins in this world and +the next. This indulgence is only for August 2nd - that is, from the +afternoon of August 1st until sunset of August 2nd. + +[21] It is to this incident that the city of Los Angeles owes its name. +The full baptismal name of the city is Nuestra Senora La Reina de los +Angeles - Our Lady the Queen of the Angels. It was founded in 1781, by +royal order, the second pueblo established in California. + +[22] Ranchería is the name given to an Indian village or town. + +[23] The Valley of the Bears. + +[24] The diarists applied the word cañada to either a cañon or an open +valley. + +[25] The word ensenada, much used by the Spanish explorers, means a +bight or open roadstead, not an enclosed and protected bay. + +[26] "Transportar en Xamus al Modo que cominan las mujeres en +Andalucia," Crespi: Palou's Noticias de la Nueva California, ii. 181. + +[27] The names given on this portion of the route have all disappeared, +but are here given as a suggestion to the Ocean Shore Railroad. + +[28] The Fleas. + +[29] It must be borne in mind that what they called the Bay or Port of +San Francisco was that stretch of water reaching from Point Reyes to +Point San Pedro and later known as the Gulf of the Farallones. + +[30] Professor George Davidson says that what was seen by Portolá from +the Montara mountains was the break in the Ballenos cliffs, a deep +narrow valley which runs straight from Ballenos bay to Tomales bay, +fourteen miles. + +[31] The Golden Gate and Bay of San Francisco. + +[32] The Bay of San Francisco continued to be called the "Estero," until +some time after Colonel Anza established the presidio and mission of San +Francisco in 1776. + +[33] The present name, Cañada de San Andres, was given by Rivera, Nov. +30, 1714. + +[34] On November, 1774, Rivera came up the peninsula on an exploring +expedition and on the spot where he had camped with the first expedition +in 1769, he planted a cross to mark the place for a mission. In March, +1776, Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, coming to select sites for the +Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, notes this cross on the bank of +the Arroyo de San Francisco (now San Francisquito creek), about one +hundred paces above the great redwood tree, and says the plan for a +mission there was abandoned because the creek was dry in summer. I note +this explanation because an excellent authority has located Portolá's +camp on Redwood creek. + +[35] I give to Ortega the credit of discovering the Golden Gate and the +Straits of Carquinez. The testimony seems sufficient to me. + +[36] Vizcaino to the King, May 23, 1603. Pub. Hist. Socy. of Southern +California, Vol. ii, Part 1. + +[37] On the day of the Holy Innocents it was not possible to say mass. +We are sorry for it, because it is the only feast day in all the journey +up to the present that we have been without mass. We are stuck in a mud +hole and are unable to move from the place where we are all wet through, +and it is not possible to make a journada to a plain that is dry for +this is bubbling up water - Crespi, Diario. + +[38] Crespi: Diario. + +[39] Palou: Noticias de la Nueva California. + + + +Data Regarding Don Gaspar de Portolá After He Left California + +by +E. J. Molera + + + +Portolá and Costansó sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to the +viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costansó remained in the +capital and took part in several engineering works, among others, the +map of the Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted +by the writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portolá's further history, +has so far discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's return +to the capital was followed by promotion from Captain to +Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as +Governor of Puebla, February 23, 1777. + +In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio +covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portolá's +taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state: + +"Possession of Governor Portolá." + +"In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal +title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his +Majesty to Señor Don Gaspar de Portolá, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal +Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor, +and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said +title has been forwarded." + +"The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in +his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from the +king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its +contents and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel +Don Gaspar de Portolá be given possession of said office, and for that +purpose, said noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him +to this hail of sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having +certified to his identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the +office of Governor, doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the poor +with excessive taxes; to keep and cause to be kept, the rights, +privileges, royal decrees and ordinances, etc." + +"Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal +justice, by which the act of possession was completed." + +In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portolá as +Governor of Puebla. + +That in the year 1779, Portolá was still Governor of Puebla is proved by +two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular +official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the +death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith; +the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portolá, dated April 17th, 1779. + + + +Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving an +Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos, +Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. +Document Obtained from the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + + + +"My Dear Sir:" + +"By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal +packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don +Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor +of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th +inst. at San Blas." + +"In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made +by this officer and his pilot, Don José Cañizares, your Excellency will +see, in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained +gives knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities +that is has to invernate[40] vessels. The docility and gentle manners of +the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the utility of +the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing this +land." + +"The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms +everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water, +wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is +rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey." + +"He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the +merit of the pilot, Don José Cañizares, in discharging the commission +entrusted to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve +to that of the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency +that you remind His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful +that the Department of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made +has always shown the same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the one +just finished with such advantage to the service, because of the +information and knowledge he has shown in the discharge of his duty." + +"For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as +Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such +important work." + +"That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish." + +"Exm°. Sr." + +"Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands," + +"Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua." + +"Mexico, November 26th, 1775. " +"To His Excellency +Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga." + + + +[40] Invernate - to winter. + + + +Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by Sea +to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of +California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco. + + + +Father Junípero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages +the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and +notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico +to lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego in +the mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in +Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773. + +Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he +considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but +little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official +business, had not an outside incident given them force. + +Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg, +communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring +the coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the +newspapers of the Russian capital[41]. This news with the corroborating +proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts of April 11th and +September 23, 1773. + +The result of this information was to give a better organization to the +maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California. +It was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco; +that better means of communication be established between San Diego and +Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the +Russians had made settlements on the coast of California. + + + +[41] Manuel Orozco y Berra, Apuntes Airs. la Historia de la Geografia an +Mexico, Anales del Ministerio de Formento de la Republica Mexicana Tomo +VI, p. 269. Documents in the Archives of the Indies, Seville. + + + +The Log of the San Carlos + +Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece) + +Under Command of + +Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel de Ayala + +From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco + +- + +The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a +Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at +Seville, Spain[42]. + +- + + + +On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de +Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in +the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to +the west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don +Bruno de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don +Juan de la Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command +of the packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manríque, was +sick and unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited +until the morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which +carried his predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board +to follow the frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the +expedition, Don Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar +and provisions which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck +where they were liable to be damaged. + +At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the +wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela +Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in sight +of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the +southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds +and calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable +progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain +some water to replace that which had been consumed[43]. The pilot could +not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On April +2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day he +came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on +board the governor of California[44]. From the Concepcion Ayala obtained +six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious accident happened to +the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, he had a number of +loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they could not injure +anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the bullet entering +the commander's foot between the second and third toes, coming out under +the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed. + +On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about +two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about +twelve leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress +northward was very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch +to calk the launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great +damage was done. On the same day indications of land were noted and some +whales were seen, which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On +the following day they saw some seals, which, according to the sailors, +was the second sign of land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which, +they say, is proof positive of land being near. On the same day land was +sighted at 4 p. m.; the North Farallones of San Francisco were seen to +the north and Point Año Nuevo to the southeast. At 7 p. m., the South +Farallones were seen at a distance of about two leagues to the +northeast. The variation of the needle was observed and found to be 13° +E. + +Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Año +Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At +noon the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36° 58'. +At 3 p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could +not be seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at 5 +p. m. they saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The +variation of the needle was observed and found to be 12° 58' E. They had +some difficulty in finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy +bottom. + +On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail +and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast. + +Ayala remained in the harbor of Monterey till July 26th, during which +time he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails +and repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under +water at the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half +yards. + +He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco. + +- + +Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36°° 33', +longitude 16° 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San +Francisco, July 26, 1775. + +That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a +contrary direction. + +On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the +range of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction[45]. At +noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13° distant five miles; at 3 p. +m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Año Nuevo came +in sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant. +From July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of +contrary winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was +seen to the east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was +found to be Point Año Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view +bearing north 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was +considered to be Point Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the +San Carlos steered west-southwest and continued in that course until 8 +a. m. of the 4th, when the bearing was changed to the north-northeast. +At noon the sun's altitude was taken and the latitude was found to be +37° 11', and longitude 17° 51' W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th, +the southernmost Farallon of the Port of San Francisco was seen to the +northwest, distant about eight leagues. The land to the north was Point +Reyes, bearing 4° W., distant about fourteen leagues. At half past +eleven, considering the coast was near, the course was changed to the +south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of August 5th, when it was changed again +to the north-northeast 5° north to bring the ship at sunrise to the +point it was at sunset of the day before. At 5 a. m. four of the +Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north-northwest, distant +four leagues. Point Año Nuevo was southeast 1/4 east from twelve to +fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4° east, distant three +leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala lowered the +launch, and in it Pilot Cañizares was sent with ten men to search for an +anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. At 9 a. m. a +strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at eleven it was +observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which convinced the +commander that it was due to the tide, and this was confirmed by the +soundings; in entering the port, as on the first occasion, the tide was +going out, and on the second one the tide was coming in. The altitude of +the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the utmost care, and the +latitude was found to be 37° 42' and the longitude 17° 14' W. of San +Blas. At this time Point Año Nuevo was about fourteen leagues distant to +the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, distant four +leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four leagues. The +wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to the +north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and bottom +found at sixteen brazas[46] of mud and sand mixed, and distant from the +mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at fifteen brazas, +with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was continued and the +bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The current was so +great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a strong wind +from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed them to go +not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the current +must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The swiftness +of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and that night +was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this was done +with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it +necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging +might give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with a +20-lb. lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either +in the channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was +realized that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike +bottom. They continued thus until they were one league inside the mouth +of the bay and a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind +suddenly stopped. Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards +the mouth, an anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast to +the big mast so that if it did not catch the bottom it would not be +lost. It was found that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made +ready to drop in case the big one should drag. When the wind stopped and +the current ceased, the vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas, +with sandy bottom[47]. + +At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset +the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not +come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the +entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable +harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he +attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were +such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried +him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor +he had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired +out, made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out, +with the same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw +the packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in +reaching her. + +At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which was +to the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had +sufficient water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of +shelter then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing +his anchor in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to +the east, although the wind came from the landward which was about two +leagues from the harbor[48]. He called this harbor "Carmeita," because +in it was a rock resembling a friar of that order. There was in its +vicinity an Indian village, the inhabitants of which came out from their +huts and cried out and made signs for the vessel to go near them. As the +sailors were taking soundings and came near the shore, the Indians +erected a pole, at the top of which was a large number of feathers. The +sailors having no orders to answer them, remained at a distance from the +shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, that the sailors were afraid of +them, endeavored to assure them by dropping their bows to the ground, +and after describing a circle in the air with the arrows stuck them in +the sand. The launch came on board again, and soon after, the Indians, +from a point of land near the vessel, talked to the sailors with loud +cries, and although their voices were heard distinctly, they could not +be understood for want of an interpreter. At 9 the launch was sent again +to another harbor to the north, which seemed to be better sheltered and +to have better anchorage[49]. It was so, and when the launch returned at +10, the pilot stated that he found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas, +and the bottom was sticky with mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards +the place examined, but a strong current prevented her reaching it. It +was then decided to anchor in fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they +stayed there all night, during which time the vessel moved on account of +the bad quality of the anchors. + +On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and +fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and +the bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided +to go to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary +to return to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling +to the men with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch +with the priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must +not molest the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for +which purpose the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and +ordered them to observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians +showed fight they could easily return to the launch, where four armed +men must always remain to protect the retreat. It is true that from the +day when intercourse was first had with the Indians, it was seen how +affable and hospitable they were, showing the greatest desire for the +Spaniards to go to their village, where, they said, they could eat and +sleep. They had already prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from +their corn, and tomales of the same. During the time the Spaniards were +with the Indians, they found that the latter repeated the Spanish words +with great facility, and by signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go +on board the packet boat, but the Indians, also by signs, signified that +until the Spaniards should visit their village, they could not go on +board. After a little while the Spaniards returned to the boat and the +Indians disappeared. + +On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the +bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report. + +On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near +Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places +were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, +which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter +even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of +the abundance of those birds that were on it. + +On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of +water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don José +de Cañizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a +few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, +Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find +the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send to +San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but +explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51]. + +On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where +they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to +ask for bread in Spanish. + +From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay of +San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don José de Cañizares was +instructed to make his report and the map of the bay. + +On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, +but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had +carried the vessel. + +From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the +rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place +on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day. + +In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox +in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till +October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on +November 6th of the same year. + + + +[42] This is a summary of the document. A full translation would be too +tedious for a work of this kind. + +[43] On the Tres Marias Islands. + +[44] Don Pedro Fages. Commandante of California, who had been recalled. + +[45] Bancroft. Hist. of Cal., says Ayala sailed from Monterey, July +24th. That was to make the sailing fit the Bancroft theories. + +[46] Braza - Fathom: Six feet. + +[47] Ayala anchored inside Port Point - the Presidio anchorage. + +[48] Richardson's Bay. + +[49] Angel Island. + +[50] Alcatraz - Pelican + +[51] The Southern portion of the bay. + + + +Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San +Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the +Examination of the Port of San Francisco + + + +Your Excellency: - I have finished the orders under which I took command +of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November +6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco. + +Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, +together with the pilot, Don José Cañizares' report of his examination +and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, +notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of +San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from +Cape Horn. + +After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor of +Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo +and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July +27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived +on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting +by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that +pertains to this matter. + +It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony +that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh +water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is +healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in +Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, +and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many +advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians +around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle +in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several +times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so that +from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their +behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; +the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language. + +There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, +enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was ordered +of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my +predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was +possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken +by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer +of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don +Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I +remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the +reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was +convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d by +the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel +Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am +satisfied that Don José Cañizares executed with his usual ability +everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency +(in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long +as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed +such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I +found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty. + +On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I +considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no +wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring +the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me +to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and +again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I +noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because +the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before had +warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, I +determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on the +19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came +October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my +foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency. + +I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years. + +San Blas, November 9, 1775. + +Juan Manuel de Ayala. + +To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli. + + + +Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco + +Situated in Latitude 37° 53' North, Longitude 17° 10' West of San Blas + +by +Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala + + + +Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude +37° 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with +two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three +white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs +north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five +submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56], +ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called +Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest one +a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient to +accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom, but because +it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the west-southwest. +The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where a copious creek +empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This harbor, with the one +inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has been found very good, +with the prevailing winds from the south to the northwest. + +From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are seen, +distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a +sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve +leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to +the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, this +is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs +east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the +third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a low +point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called +Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth +of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in +a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three small +rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter any +vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and +broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which +and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San +José, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this +famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or +leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos +Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless +the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the +shores of San José Point. + +To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67] +is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides the +water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, +especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island +where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of the +island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a +pistol-shot of the shore. + +To the east-northeast of Point San José there is a sheltered harbor, +landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where +water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no +current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I +consider, it one of the best anchorages. + +Once Points San José and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to +leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any +place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid +is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its +branches three miles. + +This report was made to me by Pilot Don José Cañizares, to whom I +entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick. + + + +[52] Pt. San Pedro. + +[53] That is: Pt. Almejas or Pt. San Pedro. + +[54] Barranca: The dictionary definition is a ravine or gulch, but it +also means a high bluff or cliff and in that sense is used by these +explorers. + +[55] i. e.: from Pt. Almejas. + +[56] Cliff Rouse Rocks. + +[57] Punta del Angel de la Guarda - Point Lobos. + +[58] Seal Rocks. + +[59] Bakers Beach. + +[60] Lobos Creek. + +[61] i. e.: Inside of Point San Jose - Fort Point. + +[62] Tamalpais + +[63] Point Bonita. The present name was given it in 1776. + +[64] Golden Gate Strait. + +[65] i. e.: The outer harbor; outside of the Golden Gate. + +[66] Lime Point. + +[67] Angel Island. + +[68] The Presidio anchorage. + + + +Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map + +- + +Report of the Pilot Don José de Cañizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala + +- + +Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the +Indies at Seville. + + + +Dear Captain: - During the four times that I made reconnaissance of +this Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and +north-northeast what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the +north-northeast of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay +running in a direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance +between the points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore +line is about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore +there are three small islands, forming between them and the shore a +narrow passage of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all +surrounded with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, +but at a distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems +to be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with +submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient +water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its +being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and +anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current, +which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69]. + +North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where +there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south +ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes to +another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight +leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided +into two channels, - one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to +the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large +harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's +distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the +northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about +one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a +large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the +channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having +three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a +low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division made +by the hills[74]. The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs +directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the +hills through a cañon that runs in the same direction. + +All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it is +not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, +excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the +southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. +Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, +and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not +difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account +of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its +shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in +the cañon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and +a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a ranchería +of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy +anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me for +that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was +useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes +(amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting +them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time, +noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and +retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with +good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many +others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some +scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they +caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing +with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than +the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in +this northern part. + +Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a +harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and +sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland +ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called +it Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of +that saint[76]. + +To the southeast of this port[77] the cañon continues, until it joins +the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three leagues +in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay[78] with a depth +of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers[79] empty and +take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the same as +in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is the +largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has +many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in +very low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their +mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. +This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second +occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on +the bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than +the Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult to +obtain wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is +covered with trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, +and impossible of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the +north of Angel Island. To the southeast of said island following the +estero is as follows: + +To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is +another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth +of the channel in two[80], through which the sea enters to a distance of +about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some parts, one, +two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its width +ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not over +two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a point, +a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry[81]. In every part there are +seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, bunches of tule, +and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, since they are +in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for three leagues +inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the weather that +strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against the strong +current from the north. + +The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has +in its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of thick +redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, +navigable only by launches[82], and on the coast two harbors[83] where +vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian village, +rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better places +for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance. + +All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, +and sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the +reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as +proof of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter +of Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775. + +José de Cañizares. + + + +[69] This is the body of water between Pt. San Pedro, Pt. San Pablo, Pt. +Richmond and Tiburon Peninsula. The high farallon is Red Rock. + +[70] The rocks are The Sisters and The Brothers. + +[71] San Pablo Bay. + +[72] Napa Slough. The marsh was evidently under water, and island number +one, with Mare Island, made one long island. + +[73] Codo - 1 1/2 feet. + +[74] Mare Island. The division of the hills or cañon is Carquines +Strait. + +[75] Carquines Straits. + +[76] The Assumption of the Virgin - August 15th. It is Southampton bay. + +[77] That is, from Puerto de la Asumpta. + +[78] Suisun Bay. + +[79] The Sacramento and San Joaquin. Suisun Bay was long known as Puerto +Dulce - Freshwater Port. + +[80] Yerba Buena or Goat Island. Cañizaries marked it on the map (c) for +isla do Alcatraces, but that evidently was a mistake, as a comparison of +the entry in the Log under date of August 12, with the map will show. + +[81] Oakland and Berkeley tide flats. + +[82] Islais creek. + +[83] Yerba Buena cove and Mission bay. + + + +Index of Places + + + +Acapulco +Alcatraz Island +Almejas, El Rincon de las +Almejas, Punta del +Angel Island +Angel Point +Año Nuevo, Punta de +Arroyo de San Francisco +Arroyo Seco +Baker's Beach +Barranca +Ballenas Bay +Bonita, Point +Brazas +California, Baja +California, Gulf of +Cañada +Cañada do los Osos +Cañada do San Andres +Cármelo, Pt +Cármelo, bay +Cármelo, Rio del +Carquines, strait +Cerralbo, Bay of +Codo +Columbia river +Concepcion, Laguna de la +Concepcion, Point +Diegueños +Drake's Bay +El Buchon +El Oso Flaco +Ensenada +Farallones de San Francisco +Farallones, Gulf of +Florida +Fort Point +Golden Gate +Golden Gate, strait +Guadalupe, lake +Islais creek +Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de +La Paz, Bay of +La Paz, port of +Lime Point +Lobos creek +Loreto, presidio of +Los Angeles, City of +Los Angeles, river +Napa slough +Mare Island +Mendocino, Cape +Mescaltitan +Mission bay +Montara mountains +Monterey, Bay of +Monterey, Port of +Monterey, presidio and mission of +Muertos, Punta de los +Navidad, Puerto de +Oakland Flats +Pájaro, Rio del +Pedernales, Point +Philippine Islands +Pilar Point +Pinos, Punta de +Porciúncula, Indulgence +Puerto Dulce +Punta del Angel de la Guarda +Presidio anchorage +Ranchería +Reyes, Punta de los +Reyes, Rio de los +Richardson's bay +Red Rock +Ross, Fort +San Blas +San Buenaventura, mission of +San Carlos, Point +San Clemente, island +San Corpóforo, cañon +San Diego +San Diego, bay +San Diego, Founding of mission +San Diego, presidio of +San EIizario, Rio de +San Fernando, valley +San Francisco, Bahia ó Puerto de +San Francisco, Bay of +San Francisco, Port of +San Francisco, creek +San Gabriel, valley +San Joaquin river +San Jose, Point +San Juan Capistrano, mission of +San Lorenzo, Rio de +San Luis Obispo +San Luis Rey, mission of +San Miguel (island) +San Nicolas, Isla de +San Pablo bay +San Pedro bay +San Pedro Point +San Pedro valley +Santa Ana, Rio de +Santa Barbara Channel +Santa Barbara Isla de +Santa Barbara presidio of +Santa Catalina, island +Santa Clara, river +Santa Inez, river +Santa Lucia, Sierra de +Santa Maria, mission of +Santa Rosa, river +Santa Susana, Sierra de +Sacramento, river +Sal, Point +Salines, river +Santiago, Point +Seal Rocks +Suisun bay +Tamalpais, mountain +The Brothers (rocks) +The Sisters (rocks) +Tomales bay +Velicatá +Yerba Buena cove + + + +Index of Persons + + + +Aguilar, Martin +Aguirre, Juan B. +Alvarado, Juan Bautista +Amador, Pedro +Anza, Juan Bautista de +Arriaga, Julian de +Ayala, Juan Manuel +Bancroft, H. H. +Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la +Bolaños, Francisco +Bucareli, Antonio Maria +Bueno, Cabrera +Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues +Cañizares, José +Carrillo, José Raimundo +Cermeñon, Sebastian +Coronado, Francisco Vasquez +Cortes, Hernando +Corvan, Toribio Gomez de +Costansó, Miguel +Cota, Pablo de +Crespi, Juan +Davidson, George +De Gali, Francisco +De Soto, Hernando +Drake, Francis +Estorace, Jorge +Fages, Pedro +Ferrelo, Bartolomé +Figueroa, Rodriga de +Fletcher, Francis +Galvez, José de +Gomez, Fray Francisco +Griffin, George Butler +Heceta, Bruno de +Jiminez (Fortun) +Laut, Agnes C. +Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de +Lummis, Chas. F. +Maldonado, Gabriel +Manrique, Miguel +Mendoza, Antonio de +Monterey, Conde de +Morgana, Juan de +Oliveros, José Ignacio +Ortega, José Francisco +Palou, Fray Francisco +Perez, Juan +Parron, Fray Fernando +Pino, Miguel del +Portolá, Gaspar de +Prat, Pedro +Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de +Salcedo, Felipe +Serra, Fray Junípero +Soberanes, José Maria +Vancouver, Captain George +Velasco, Luis de +Vila, Vicente +Vizcaino, Fray Juan +Vizcaino, Sebastian +Yorba, José Antonio +Zúñiga y Asevedo, Gaspar de + + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE MARCH OF PORTOLA *** + +This file should be named 8marc10.txt or 8marc10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8marc11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8marc10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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