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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:07:02 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:07:02 -0700 |
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diff --git a/old/48924-8.txt b/old/48924-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0c45e57 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/48924-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1391 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Joseph Pennell's pictures of the Panama +Canal, by Joseph Pennell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Joseph Pennell's pictures of the Panama Canal + Reproductions of a series of lithographs made by him on + the Isthmus of Panama, January--March 1912, together with + impressions and notes by the artist + +Author: Joseph Pennell + +Release Date: May 10, 2015 [EBook #48924] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES OF THE PANAMA CANAL *** + + + + +Produced by Christian Boissonnas and The Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + + JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES + OF THE PANAMA CANAL + + FOURTH EDITION + + + + + JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES + OF THE PANAMA CANAL + + REPRODUCTIONS OF A SERIES OF + LITHOGRAPHS MADE BY HIM ON THE + ISTHMUS OF PANAMA, JANUARY--MARCH, + 1912, TOGETHER WITH IMPRESSIONS + AND NOTES BY THE ARTIST + + [Illustration: ++ Decorative image.] + + PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON + J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY + 1913 + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY JOSEPH PENNELL + + PUBLISHED, SEPTEMBER, 1912 + + + PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY + AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS + PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A. + + + + + TO + J. B. BISHOP + + SECRETARY OF THE ISTHMIAN + CANAL COMMISSION + + WHO + + MADE IT POSSIBLE + FOR ME TO DRAW + THESE LITHOGRAPHS + + AND + + WHO WAS ALSO GOOD + ENOUGH TO ACCEDE + TO MY REQUEST AND + READ AND CORRECT + THE PROOFS FOR ME + + + + +INTRODUCTION--MY LITHOGRAPHS OF THE PANAMA CANAL + + +The idea of going to Panama to make lithographs of the Canal was mine. +I suggested it, and the _Century Magazine_ and _Illustrated London +News_ offered to print some of the drawings I might make. + +Though I suggested the scheme a couple of years ago, it was not until +January, 1912, that I was able to go--and then I was afraid it was too +late--afraid the work was finished and that there would be nothing to +see, for photographs taken a year or eighteen months before, showed +some of the locks built and their gates partly in place. + +Still I started, and after nearly three weeks of voyaging found, +one January morning, the Isthmus of Panama ahead of the steamer, a +mountainous country, showing deep valleys filled with mist, like snow +fields, as I have often seen them from Montepulciano looking over Lake +Thrasymene, in Italy. Beyond were higher peaks, strange yet familiar, +Japanese prints, and as we came into the harbor the near hills and +distant mountains were silhouetted with Japanese trees and even the +houses were Japanese, and when we at length landed, the town was full +of character reminiscent of Spain, yet the local character came out +in the Cathedral, the tower of which--a pyramid--was covered with a +shimmering, glittering mosaic of pearl oyster shells. The people, not +Americans, were primitive, and the children, mostly as in Spain, were +not bothered with clothes. + +I followed my instinct, which took me at once to the great swamp near +the town of Mount Hope, where so many of De Lesseps' plans lie buried. +Here are locomotives, dredges, lock-gates, huge bulks of iron, great +wheels, nameless, shapeless masses--half under water, half covered with +vines--the end of a great work. I came back to Colon by the side of +the French Canal, completed and working up to, I believe, Gatun Lock +and Dam, and spent the afternoon in the American town, every house +Japanese in feeling, French or American in construction, screened with +black wire gauze, divided by white wood lines--most decorative--and all +shaded by a forest of palms. Through these wandered well-made roads, +and on them were walking and driving well-made Americans. There were +no mosquitoes, no flies, no smells, none of the usual adjuncts of a +tropical town. + +At the end of the town was a monument, a nondescript Columbus, facing +nowhere, at his feet an Indian; but it seemed to me, if any monument +was wanted at Colon, it should be a great light-house or a great statue +towering aloft in the harbor, a memorial to the men who, French and +American, have made the Canal. + +Next day I started across the Continent to Panama, for I learned +the Government headquarters were there, and, until I had seen the +officials, I did not know if I should be allowed to work or even stay +on the Isthmus. But at Gatun I got off the train, determining to do +all I could before I was stopped--as I was quite sure I should be. I +saw the tops of the locks only a few hundred yards away, and, turning +my back on the stunning town piled up on the hillside, walked over to +them; from a bridge bearing a sign that all who used it did so at their +own risk I looked down into a yawning gulf stretching to right and +left, the bottom filled with crowds of tiny men and tiny trains--all in +a maze of work; to the right the gulf reached to a lake, to the left +to mighty gates which mounted from the bottom to my feet. Overhead, +huge iron buckets flew to and fro, great cranes raised or lowered huge +masses of material. As I looked, a bell rang, the men dropped their +tools, and lines of little figures marched away, or climbed wooden +stairs and iron ladders to the surface. The engines whistled, the +buckets paused, everything stopped instantly, save that from the depths +a long chain came quickly up, and clinging to the end of it, as Cellini +would have grouped them, were a dozen men--a living design--the most +decorative motive I have ever seen in the Wonder of Work. I could not +have imagined it, and in all the time I was on the Isthmus I never saw +it but once again. For a second only they were posed, and then the huge +crane swung the group to ground and the design fell to pieces as they +dropped off. + +Across the bridge was a telephone station and beyond and below it the +great approaches to the locks along which electric locomotives will +draw the ships that pass through. There was a subject, and I tackled it +at once. In the distance the already filling lake--among islands, but +the highland still above the water, dotting it, crowned with palms and +strange trees; dredgers slowly moved, native canoes paddled rapidly, +over all hovered great birds. To the right was the long line of the +French Canal, almost submerged, stretching to the distance, against +which, blue and misty and flat, were strange-shaped mountains, outlined +with strange-shaped trees. Bridges like those of Hiroshigi connected +island with island or with the mainland. It was perfect, the apotheosis +of the Wonder of Work, and as I looked the whole rocked as with an +earthquake--and then another. I was dragged into the hut as showers of +stones rattled on the roof as blast after blast went off near by. Soon +people in authority came up--I supposed to stop me; instead it was only +to show pleasure that I found their work worth drawing. These men were +all Americans, all so proud of their part in the Canal, and so strong +and healthy--most of them trained and educated, I knew as soon as they +opened their mouths--the greatest contrast to the crowd on the steamer, +who now were all tamely following a guide and listening to what they +could neither understand nor see during their only day ashore. These +engineers and workmen are the sort of Americans worth knowing, and +yet I did not see any golf links at Gatun. The day was spent in that +telephone box and on the Spillway of the Dam--a semicircle of cyclopean +concrete, backed by a bridge finer than Hokusai ever imagined, yet +built to carry the huge engines that drag the long trains of dirt and +rock across it, to make the dam. The dam, to me, was too big and too +vague to draw. And all this is the work of my countrymen, and they are +so proud of their work. Yet the men who have done this great work will +tell you that we owe much to the French, and that if the engineers and +the Commission at Panama had not the Government, with unlimited men +and money, behind them, and the discoveries in sanitary science of +which the French were ignorant, we, too, would have failed. They tell +you, and show you how, the French worked on the Canal right across the +Isthmus, and we are carrying out the great project they were unable to +complete. And we have won the admiration of the world. + +The sanitary problem is solved, but they tell you under the French, +fever carried off a man for every tie that was laid on the Panama +Railroad. This is a legend, but a true story is, that the French cared +so little for their lives that with every shipload of machinery came +boxes of champagne, and those who received them asked their friends +to dinner--finished the bottles--and were buried in the empty box in +the morning. Now there is no fever in the Canal Zone, but there is +plenty of drink in and outside of it, but, I am told, "indulged in with +wonderful moderation." I certainly never saw an American under the +influence of it. + +In the evening a ride of two hours took me over the thirty miles to +Panama--one of the last passengers over the old line of the Panama +Railway, now buried under the waters of the growing lake. From the +railroad I saw for the first time the primeval forest, the tropical +jungle, which I had never believed in, never believed that it could +not be penetrated save with an axe or a machete; but it is so, and the +richness of it, the riot of it, the variety of it, is incredible and +endless. The train puffed along, in that time-taking fashion of the +tropics I should soon be familiar with, passing points of view I made +notes of, for first impressions are for me always the best, and one +trip like this gives me more ideas than days of personal pointing out. +Finally Panama was reached in the dark; all I saw was a great hill lit +up with rows of lights, one above the other, in the night. + +The day had not been hot, the sky was not blue or black--it was white, +and filled with white clouds, though they were dark against it. There +was no glare--and I had forgotten my sketching umbrella; but I never +needed it. So far as I know, there is always a breeze--it is never +really hot in the day--and as soon as the sun sets the trade wind +rises--if it has not been blowing all day--and I could always sleep +at night. It is all so unlike other hot countries--but, then, Panama +is unlike other places: the sun rises and sets in the Pacific, and +the city of Panama, though on the Pacific, is east of Colon, on the +Atlantic. + +There was not a smell, or a mosquito, or a fly on Ancon Hill, but over +it all was the odor of petroleum, with which the streams and marshes of +the whole zone are sprayed almost daily; and this has made the Canal +and saved the workers. + +Next morning I went to the Administration Building and presented my +letters, though I did not know if I should be allowed to draw. But it +seemed that everything had been arranged for me by the Commission, who, +it also seemed, had been doing nothing for weeks but waiting my coming. +I was clothed, fed, taken about in motor cars and steam launches, given +passes on the railroad, and finally turned loose to go where I wanted +and draw what I liked--and if anything happened or did not happen I was +just to telephone to headquarters. + +The following day, donning my khaki, which I wore only once, and +pocketing my pass and some oranges, I started for the locks at Pedro +Miguel--pronounced, in American, Peter Megil, just as Miraflores is +called Millflowers. We were all down, had breakfast, and off in the +train--a jim-crow one--before the sun was up, and at Pedro Miguel +station I found myself one of a horde of niggers, Greeks, Hindoos, +Slovaks, Spaniards, Americans and engineers, bound for the lock, half a +mile away. Here I went down to the bottom to get a drawing of the great +walls that lead up to the great gates, now nearly finished. I had come +at exactly the right time. These walls are surmounted with great arches +and buttresses--the most decorative subject, the most stupendous motive +I have ever seen--almost too great to draw. Unlike my experiences of a +lifetime at other Government works, I was asked for no permit. I was +allowed to go where I wanted, draw what I liked; when any attention was +paid to me, it was to ask what I was working for--give me a glass of +ice water--precious, out of the breeze at the bottom of a lock--offer +to get me a photograph or make one, to suggest points of view, or tell +me to clear out when a blast was to be fired. And the interest of these +Americans in my work and in their work was something I had never seen +before. A man in huge boots, overalls and ragged shirt, an apology for +a hat, his sleeves up to his shoulders, proved himself in a minute +a graduate of a great school of engineering, and proved as well his +understanding of the importance of the work I was trying to do, and his +regret that most painters could not see the splendid motives all about; +and the greatest compliment I ever received came from one of these men, +who told me my drawings "would work." + +Day after day it was the same--everything, including government hotels +and labor trains, open to me. The only things to look out for were the +blasts, the slips of dirt in the cut, and the trains, which rushed and +switched about without any reference to those who might get in front +of them. If one got run over, as was not usual; or blown up, which +was unusual; or malaria, which few escaped among the workmen, there +were plenty of hospitals, lots of nurses and sufficient doctors. Each +railroad switch was attended by a little darkey with a big flag; of +one of whom it was said he was seen to be asleep, with his head on +the rails one day. The engineer of an approaching dirt train actually +pulled up, and he was kicked awake and asked why he was taking a nap +there. The boy replied he was "'termined no train go by, boss, widout +me knowin' it"; and of another who, awaking suddenly and seeing half +a train past his switch, pulled it open and wrecked all the trains, +tracks and switches within a quarter of a mile; or the third, a +Jamaican, a new hand, who, being told he was not to let a train go by, +promptly signalled a locomotive to come on, and when he was hauled up, +smilingly said: "Dat wan't no train wat yer tole me to stop; dat's a +enjine." + +Drawing had other interesting episodes connected with it, as when +I sat at work in Culebra Cut the leading man of a file of niggers, +carrying on his head a wooden box, would approach, stop beside me and +look at the drawing. As I happened to look up I would notice the box +was labelled, _Explosives, Highly dangerous_. Then, with his hands in +his pockets, he and the rest of the gang would stumble along over the +half-laid ties, slippery boulders and through the mud, trying to avoid +the endless trains and balance the boxes on their heads at the same +time. I must say, when I read the legend on the box the sensation was +peculiar. They tell you, too, that when President Taft came down to the +Cut all dynamiting gangs were ordered out; but one gang of blacks was +forgotten, and as the train with the President and Colonel Goethals in +it passed, the leader cheered so hard that he dropped his box, which +somehow didn't go off. It was interesting, too, when one had been +working steadily for some time, to find oneself surrounded, on getting +up, by little flags, to announce that the whole place had been mined +and should not be approached; or to find oneself entangled in a network +of live wires ready to touch off the blasts from hundreds of yards +away, and to remember that I was behind a boulder about to be blown to +pieces, and might be overlooked; or to be told I had better get out, as +they were ready to blast, after a white man had got done chucking from +one rock, to a black man on another, sticks of melanite, as the easiest +way of getting them to him; or ramming in, with long poles, charges so +big that trains, steam shovels and tracks had to be moved to keep them +from being "shot up." I always kept out of the way as far as possible +after the day at Bas Obispo when, standing some hundreds of yards from +a blast watching the effect of showers of rocks falling like shells in +the river, I heard wild yells, and, looking up, saw a rock as big as a +foot-ball sailing toward me. I have heard one can see shells coming and +dodge them. I know now that this is so, though I had to drop everything +and roll to do it. But I don't like it; and accidents do happen, and +there are hospitals all across the Isthmus with men, to whom accidents +have happened, in them. But nothing happened to me. I did not get +malaria or fever, or bitten or run over. I was very well all the +time--and I walked in the sun and worked in the sun, and sat in the +swamps and the bottoms of locks and at the edge of the dam, and nothing +but drawings happened; but I should not advise others to try these +things, nor to get too near steam shovels, which "pick up anything, +from an elephant to a red-bug," but sometimes drop a ton rock; nor play +around near track-lifters and dirt-train emptiers--for the things are +small respecters of persons. But most people do not get hurt, and I +never met anyone who wanted to leave; and I believe the threat to send +the men home broke the only strike on the Canal. + +I did not go to Panama to study engineering--which I know nothing +about; or social problems--which I had not time to master; or Central +American politics--which we are in for; but to draw the Canal as it is, +and the drawings are done. + +I was there at the psychological moment, and am glad I went. It +is not my business to answer the question: When will the Canal be +opened?--though they say it will be open within a year. + +Will the dam stand? Those who have built it say so. + +Which is better, a sea level or a lock? The lock canal is built. + +I did not bother myself about these things, nor about lengths and +breadths and heights and depths. I went to see and draw the Canal, +and during all the time I was there I was afforded every facility for +seeing the construction of the Panama Canal, and from my point of +view it is the most wonderful thing in the world; and I have tried to +express this in my drawings at the moment before it was opened, for +when it is opened, and the water turned in, half the amazing masses of +masonry will be beneath the waters on one side and filled in with earth +on the other, and the picturesqueness will have vanished. The Culebra +Cut will be finer, and from great steamers passing through the gorge, +worth going 15,000 miles, as I have done, to see. But I saw it at the +right time, and have tried to show what I saw. And it is American--the +work of my countrymen. + + JOSEPH PENNELL + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS BEGIN WITH COLON AND PROCEED IN REGULAR SEQUENCE +ACROSS THE ISTHMUS TO PANAMA. + + I COLON: THE AMERICAN QUARTER + + II MOUNT HOPE + + III GATUN: DINNER TIME + + IV AT THE BOTTOM OF GATUN LOCK + + V THE GUARD GATE, GATUN + + VI APPROACHES TO GATUN LOCK + + VII END OF THE DAY: GATUN LOCK + + VIII THE JUNGLE: THE OLD RAILROAD FROM THE NEW + + IX THE NATIVE VILLAGE + + X THE AMERICAN VILLAGE + + XI THE CUT AT BAS OBISPO + + XII IN THE CUT AT LAS CASCADAS + + XIII THE CUT FROM CULEBRA + + XIV STEAM SHOVEL AT WORK IN THE CULEBRA CUT + + XV THE CUT: LOOKING TOWARD CULEBRA + + XVI THE CUT AT PARAISO + + XVII THE CUT LOOKING TOWARD ANCON HILL + + XVIII LAYING THE FLOOR OF PEDRO MIGUEL LOCK + + XIX THE GATES OF PEDRO MIGUEL + + XX THE WALLS OF PEDRO MIGUEL + + XXI BUILDING MIRAFLORES LOCK + + XXII CRANES: MIRAFLORES LOCK + + XXIII WALLS OF MIRAFLORES LOCK + + XXIV OFFICIAL ANCON + + XXV FROM ANCON HILL + + XXVI THE CATHEDRAL, PANAMA + + XXVII THE CITY OF PANAMA FROM THE TIVOLI HOTEL, ANCON + + XXVIII THE MOUTH OF THE CANAL FROM THE SEA + + + + +I COLON: THE AMERICAN QUARTER + + +The city of Colon is divided into two quarters--the native, or +Panamanian, and the American. The former is picturesque, but has +nothing to do with the Canal and is some distance from it. The Canal +cannot be seen from the city. The American quarter, in which the Canal +employees live, stands on the sea shore, and is made up of bungalows, +shops, hotels, hospitals--all that goes to make up a city--save +saloons. All are built of wood, painted white, and completely screened +with wire gauze, rusted black by the dampness, a protection from +mosquitoes and other beasts, bugs and vermin. Raised on concrete +supports mostly with long, gently sloping roofs, and buried in a forest +of palms, the town, the first the visitor will see, seems absolutely +Japanese, is very pictorial and full of character. The design, I +believe, of the houses was made by the American engineers or +architects. + +Very few of the higher Canal officers live at Colon, which is the +Atlantic seaport of the Isthmus, the eastern mouth of the Canal, though +Colon is west of Panama--such is the geography of the country. + +The mouth of the Canal will be fortified; breakwaters and light-houses +are being built. + +For authorities on fortification it may be interesting to state that +the forts will be so situated that the locks will be completely out +of range of an enemy's guns. Personally I am not a believer in wars +or navies. If my theories were practised there would be no need for +fortifications. + +[Illustration] + + + + +II MOUNT HOPE + + +Near Mount Hope, which--for the French--should be called the Slough of +Despond, or the Lake of Despair, is a huge swamp about a mile or so +from Colon, on the left bank of the French Canal, seen on the right of +the lithograph. This swamp is now filled with all sorts of abandoned +French machinery. Dredges, locomotives, and even what seem to be lock +gates, show amid the palms in the distance. Huge American cranes for +raising this French material--which the American engineers have made +use of--and discharging cargo from the ships in the French Canal--which +is here finished and in use--loom over the swamp, the banks of which +are lined with piers and workshops full of life--a curious contrast to +the dead swamp in which not a mosquito lives, nor a smell breathes. + +[Illustration] + + + + +III GATUN: DINNER TIME + + +Between Mount Hope and Gatun is much more of the swamp and much more +abandoned machinery, but the Canal is not to be seen from the railroad, +or any evidence of it, till the train stops at the station of Old +Gatun, with its workmen's dwellings crowning the hillside. I regret +I made no drawing of these, so picturesquely perched. At the station +of Gatun--the first time I stopped--I saw the workmen--in decorative +fashion--coming to the surface for dinner. The lithograph was made from +a temporary bridge spanning the locks and looking toward Colon. The +great machines on each side of the locks are for mixing and carrying +to their place, in huge buckets, the cement and concrete, of which the +locks are built. The French Canal is in the extreme distance, now used +by our engineers. + +[Illustration] + + + + +IV AT THE BOTTOM OF GATUN LOCK + + +There is a flight of three double locks at Gatun by which ships will be +raised eighty-five feet to the level of Gatun Lake. From the gates of +the upper lock--the nearest to the Pacific--they will sail across the +now-forming lake some miles (about twenty, I believe) to the Culebra +Cut; through this, nine miles long, they will pass, and then descend by +three other flights of locks, at Pedro Miguel and Miraflores, to the +Pacific, which is twenty feet higher, I believe, than the Atlantic. +The great height, eighty-five feet, was agreed upon so as to save +excavation in the Cut and time in completion--one of those magnificent +labor-saving devices of the moment--which I, not being an engineer, see +no necessity for--having waited four hundred years for the Canal, we +might, as an outsider, it seems to me, have waited four more years and +got rid of a number of the locks, even if it cost more money. + +The lithograph made in the middle lock shows the gates towering on +either side. These gates were covered, when I made the drawing, with +their armor plates. The lower parts, I was told, are to be filled with +air, and the gates, worked by electricity, will virtually float. The +scaffolding is only temporary, and so is the opening at the bottom and +the railroad tracks, which were filled up and discarded while I was +there. So huge are the locks--the three, I think, a mile long, each +one thousand feet between the gates, and about ninety feet deep--that, +until the men knock off, there scarce seems anyone around. + +[Illustration] + + + + +V THE GUARD GATE, GATUN + + +There is a safety gate in each lock, to protect, in case of accident, +the main lock gate, just suggested, with the figures working at the +armor-plate facing, on the extreme right. Beyond are the outer walls +and approaches of the upper lock, and beyond these, but unseen, the +lake. At the bottom is the railroad and the temporary opening shown +in the previous drawing. The scale, the immensity of the whole may be +judged by the size of the engines and figures. I have never seen such a +magnificent arrangement of line, light and mass, and yet those were the +last things the engineers thought of. But great work is great art, and +always was and will be. This is the Wonder of Work. + +[Illustration] + + + + +VI APPROACHES TO GATUN LOCK + + +These huge arches, only made as arches to save concrete and to break +the waves of the lake, are mightier than any Roman aqueduct, and more +pictorial, yet soon they will be hidden almost to the top by the waters +of the lake. Electric locomotives will run out to the farthest point, +and from it, tow the ships into the lock. Beyond is Gatun Lake, and +to the right the lines of the French Canal and Chagres River stretch +to the horizon. Even while I was on the Isthmus the river and canal +disappeared forever before the waters of the rapidly rising flood. All +evidence of the French work beyond Gatun has vanished under water. I +did not draw the Dam or the Spillway simply because I could not find a +subject to draw, or could not draw it. + +[Illustration] + + + + +VII END OF THE DAY--GATUN LOCK + + +This was another subject I saw as the men stopped work in the evening. +On the left is the stairway which most of them use, and on both sides +are iron ladders which a few climb. The semicircular openings are for +mooring the ships. + +[Illustration] + + + + +VIII THE JUNGLE + +THE OLD RAILROAD FROM THE NEW + + +While I was on the Isthmus the old line from Gatun to the Culebra Cut +at Bas Obispo was abandoned, owing to the rising waters of the lake, +which will soon cover towns, and swamps, and hills, and forests. This +drawing was made looking across the lake near Gatun, with the dam in +the distance, and I have tried to show the rich riot of the jungle. +Below, on the old road, is a steam shovel digging dirt. The little +islands, charming in line, are little hills still showing above the +waters of the forming lake. + +[Illustration] + + + + +IX THE NATIVE VILLAGE + + +This lithograph was made on the new line, which discovered to the +visitor primitive Panama, its swamps, jungles and native villages; but, +owing to Colonel Gorgas, native no longer, as they are odorless and +clean; but the natives, with their transformation, seem to prefer to +the palm-leaf roof, corrugated iron and tin, and abandoned freight cars +to live in. The huts are mostly built on piles near the rivers. In the +background can be seen the strange-shaped mountains and strange-shaped +trees. The white tree--I don't know its name--with the bushy top has +no bark, and is not dead, but puts out leaves, Mrs. Colonel Gaillard +tells me, in summer; and she also tells me the jungle is full of the +most wonderful orchids, birds, snakes, monkeys and natives, and offered +to take me to see them. I saw her splendid collection of orchids at +Culebra, through the luxuriance of which Colonel Gaillard says he has +to hew his way with a machete every morning to breakfast, so fast do +plants grow on the Isthmus. Advantage of this rapidity of jungle growth +has been taken to bind together the completed parts of the surface of +the dam, which are covered with so much vegetation that I could not +tell Nature's work from that of the engineers. + +[Illustration] + + + + +X THE AMERICAN VILLAGE + + +These are scattered all across the Continent, hemmed in by the tropical +jungle or placed on the high, cool hill. In all there is, first, the +news-stand at the station; then, the hotel--really restaurants--where +on one side the Americans "gold employees" dine for thirty cents, +better than they could for a dollar at home--and more decently; men, +women and children. On the other, in a separate building, usually, +the "silver employees" foreigners; and there are separate dining and +sleeping places and cars for negroes, even on workmen's trains. The +Indian has the sense and pride to live his own life down there, apart, +as at home in India. There are many in the Zone. + +The head men in each of these towns have their own houses; the lesser +lights share double ones; and I believe the least of all, bunks; but +these matters didn't interest me, nor did sanitary conditions or social +evils or advantages. + +There are also clubs, I believe, social centres, mothers' meetings, +churches, art galleries and museums on the Isthmus, but I never saw +them. I was after picturesqueness. Still, it is no wonder, under +present conditions, that I never found a man who wanted to +"go home"--and some hadn't been home for seven years, and dreaded +going--and rightly. The Canal Zone is the best governed section of the +United States. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XI THE CUT AT BAS OBISPO + + +The Culebra Cut commences near Bas Obispo--from this place--where +the Chagres River enters Gatun Lake, the cut extends for nine miles, +to Pedro Miguel. All between here and Gatun will be under water. The +drawing was made at the bottom of the cut, and the various levels on +which the excavations are made may be seen. The dirt trains, one above +the other, are loading up from the steam shovels on each side of the +old river bed in the centre. The machinery for shifting tracks and +unloading trains is wonderful, but not very picturesque. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XII IN THE CUT AT LAS CASCADAS + + +This drawing shows the cut and gives from above some idea of the +different levels on which the work is carried out. It is on some of +these levels that slides have occurred and wrecked the work. The +slides move slowly, not like avalanches, but have caused endless +complications; but Colonel Gaillard, the engineer in charge, believes +he will triumph over all his difficulties--which include even a small +volcano--there is a newspaper story--but no earthquakes. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XIII THE CUT FROM CULEBRA + + +At this point the cut is far the deepest at the continental divide, and +here the French did their greatest work, and here this is recorded by +the United States on a placque high up on the left-hand bare mountain +face of Gold Hill. The drawing was made looking towards Pedro Miguel. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XIV STEAM SHOVEL AT WORK IN THE CULEBRA CUT + + +This beast, as they say down there, "can pick up anything from an +elephant to a red-bug"--the smallest thing on the Isthmus. They also +say the shovel "would look just like Teddy if it only had glasses." It +does the work of digging the Canal and filling the trains, and does it +amazingly--under the amazing direction of its amazing crews. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XV THE CUT--LOOKING TOWARD CULEBRA + + +This is the most pictorial as well as the most profound part of +the cut. Culebra, the town, is high above--some of it has fallen +in--on the edge in the distance--on the left. The white tower is an +observatory from near which the lithograph No. XIII of the cut was +made. The drawing is looking toward the Atlantic. The engineer of the +dirt train--the smoke of which is so black because the engines burn +oil--climbed up to see what I was at, and incidentally told me he was +paid $3,600 a year, had a house free and two months' holiday. It is +scarcely wonderful he has little interest in home, but the greatest +pride in "our canal," and his only hope was to be "kept on the job" and +run an electric locomotive for the rest of his life. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XVI THE CUT AT PARAISO + + +At this point the old railroad crosses the Canal bed, and there is +a splendid view in both directions. This is looking toward the same +mountains as in the previous drawing, early in the morning. The +mountains are covered with long lines of mist, under which nestles +the American-Japanese town of Paraiso. The new line of railroad never +crosses the Canal, but passes behind the mountain on the right. The +scheme of having it follow the Canal through Culebra Cut has been +abandoned, owing to the slides. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XVII THE CUT LOOKING TOWARD ANCON HILL + + +This is the view toward the Pacific from the same spot in the full +stress of work. The Pedro Miguel locks are in the distance, beyond is +Ancon Hill, dominating Panama, miles farther on; and to the right, +between the hills, but miles still farther, beyond Miraflores lock, the +Pacific. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XVIII LAYING THE FLOOR OF PEDRO MIGUEL LOCK + + +This is the most monumental piece of work on the Canal, and the most +pictorial. The huge approaches, quite different in form from Gatun--for +all the locks have character, and the character of their builders--are +only arches to save concrete. Here were men enough laying the concrete +floor--others swarming over the gates not yet covered with their armor +plate. Beyond is the lock just shown between the gates. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XIX THE GATES OF PEDRO MIGUEL + + +This is the same lock nearer the gates, and shows the great length of +it from gate to gate and something of its building and construction, +from my point of view. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XX THE WALLS OF PEDRO MIGUEL + + +This was drawn from the opposite end of the lock and the great side +walls topped with their concrete-making crenellations and cranes are +seen. In the foreground, on the left, is one of the side openings for +emptying the water from one lock to another--for all the locks are +double, side by side, and ships will not have to wait until a lock is +empty, as is usual, before they can enter, but, as one empties, the +same water partly fills the one beside it, and so steamers will pass +without waiting. Two or three small vessels can go through at the same +time, as well as the largest with room to spare. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXI BUILDING MIRAFLORES LOCK + + +This lock, the nearest the Pacific, is again quite different and is the +work of a civil engineer, Mr. Williamson, and not of army officers, +like the rest. Between the two forces, I believe, the most fierce +harmony exists. The drawing shows the two locks side by side, the great +cranes--they are different, too--towering above. All the ground here +will be filled by a small lake between this lock and Pedro Miguel. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXII CRANES--MIRAFLORES LOCK + + +These great cranes travel to and fro, and as I drew the nearest I found +the lines changing, but thought there was something wrong with me. +So huge were they, and so silently and solemnly did they move, that +I could not believe they were moving. This is the Pacific end of the +lock--the last on the Canal. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXIII WALLS OF MIRAFLORES LOCK + + +The only wall in March of the approach to Miraflores may be contrasted +with the similar subject No. XX--Pedro Miguel. + +Much as there was to be done in March, the engineer, Mr. Williamson, +had no doubt it would be finished this fall; for as fast as the other +locks were completed, men and machines were to be put on this. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXIV OFFICIAL ANCON + + +Amid these royal palm groves work and live many of the members of the +Isthmian Canal Commission--the rest are on the high hill at Culebra. +To the secretary, Mr. J. B. Bishop, and to his family, I am endlessly +indebted for endless help while on the Zone. + +Ancon is a perfect Japanese town--built by Americans--and the interiors +of the houses here and at Culebra are as delightful as their owners are +charming--and I know of what I speak. The large building against the +ocean is the Administration Office of the Isthmian Canal Commission. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXV FROM ANCON HILL + + +A road winds up Ancon Hill, passing the official residences and the +hospitals, finally reaching a terrace bordered with royal palms. Below +to the left is the Tivoli Hotel, and still lower and farther away, the +city, while the Pacific fills the distance. This is the most beautiful +spot I saw on the Isthmus. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXVI THE CATHEDRAL, PANAMA + + +The Cathedral, one of a number of churches in the city of Panama, +stands in a large square. The feeling of all these, with their richly +decorated façades and long, unbroken side walls, is absolutely +Spanish--but the interiors are far more bare--much more like Italian +churches. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXVII THE CITY OF PANAMA FROM THE TIVOLI HOTEL, ANCON + + +From the wing of the Government hotel in which I stayed I looked out +over the city of Panama to the Pacific. If this city were in Spain, or +if even a decent description of it were in a European guide-book, the +hordes of Americans who go to the Canal would rave over it. As it is, +not many of them (not being told) ever see it, though there are few +towns in Europe with more character. But I regret to say my countrymen +don't know what they are looking at, or what to look at, till they have +a guide-book, courier or tout to tell them. The Government provides, I +am told, a Harvard graduate to perform the latter function, and sends +out daily an observation car across the Continent. + +The two strange, flat-topped mountains, miles out at sea, are to be +fortified, and they are so far from shore, and the locks so far inland, +as to be out of range--as well as out of sight--of modern guns and +gunners. + +[Illustration] + + + + +XXVIII THE MOUTH OF THE CANAL FROM THE SEA + + +This drawing was made from the channel which leads out to the Pacific +Ocean. The mouth of the Canal is on the left in the flat space between +the mountains; on the right of this, the dark mass on the edge of the +water is the docks and harbors; then comes the great, towering Ancon +Hill, one side all dug out in terraces for dirt, much of which goes to +fill in the outside of locks, which, however, will work before they are +filled in. And for what other purposes the War Department are going to +use this Gibraltar they alone know. The other side, a mass of palms +shelters the houses of the officials, and at the foot of the hill, to +the right, Panama--as beautiful as Naples or Tangier, yet hardly a +tourist knows it; and--well, the Government is not running a tourist +agency. + +The breakwater, which will connect the fortified islands miles away +with the mainland, is just started in the centre. This is the first and +last view of Panama--and of the greatest work of modern times, the work +of the greatest engineers of all time. + + JOSEPH PENNELL + +[Illustration] + + + + +Life of James McNeill Whistler + +BY ELIZABETH R. AND JOSEPH PENNELL + + +The Pennells have thoroughly revised the material in their Authorized +Life and added much new matter, which for lack of space they were +unable to incorporate in the elaborate two-volume edition now out of +print. Fully illustrated with 96 plates reproduced from Whistler's +works, more than half reproduced for first time. + + +Crown 8vo., fifth and revised edition. + +Whistler binding, deckle edge. + +$3.50 net. + +Three quarters grain levant, $7.50 net. + + + + + +----------------------------------------------------------------- + + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. | + | | + | Duplicated section headings have been omitted. | + | | + | Italicized words are surrounded by underline characters, | + | _like this_. | + | | + | [++] indicates a caption added by the transcriber. | + +------------------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Joseph Pennell's pictures of the +Panama Canal, by Joseph Pennell + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES OF THE PANAMA CANAL *** + +***** This file should be named 48924-8.txt or 48924-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/8/9/2/48924/ + +Produced by Christian Boissonnas and The Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Joseph Pennell's pictures of the Panama Canal + Reproductions of a series of lithographs made by him on + the Isthmus of Panama, January--March 1912, together with + impressions and notes by the artist + +Author: Joseph Pennell + +Release Date: May 10, 2015 [EBook #48924] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES OF THE PANAMA CANAL *** + + + + +Produced by Christian Boissonnas and The Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p class="ac larger">JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES<br /> +OF THE PANAMA CANAL</p> + +<p class="ac smaller">FOURTH EDITION</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<h1> +<span class="sc">Joseph Pennell's Pictures<br /> +of the Panama Canal</span></h1> + +<p class="ac"> +REPRODUCTIONS OF A SERIES OF<br /> +LITHOGRAPHS MADE BY HIM ON THE<br /> +ISTHMUS OF PANAMA, JANUARY—MARCH,<br /> +1912, TOGETHER WITH IMPRESSIONS<br /> +AND NOTES BY THE ARTIST</p> + +<div class="p6"> + <div class="figcenter"><a name="i003.jpg" id="i003.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i003.jpg" + alt="" /> + </div> +</div> + +<p class="ac p6"> +PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON<br /> +<span class="larger">J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY</span><br /> +1913</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p class="ac smaller"> +COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY JOSEPH PENNELL<br /> +<br /> +PUBLISHED, SEPTEMBER, 1912</p> + +<p class="ac p6 xx-smaller">PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY<br /> +AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS<br /> +PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p class="ac"> +TO<br /> +<span class="larger">J. B. BISHOP</span><br /> +<br /> +SECRETARY OF THE ISTHMIAN<br /> +CANAL COMMISSION<br /> +<br /> +<span class="larger">WHO</span><br /> +<br /> +MADE IT POSSIBLE<br /> +FOR ME TO DRAW<br /> +THESE LITHOGRAPHS<br /> +<br /> +<span class="larger">AND</span><br /> +<br /> +WHO WAS ALSO GOOD<br /> +ENOUGH TO ACCEDE<br /> +TO MY REQUEST AND<br /> +READ AND CORRECT<br /> +THE PROOFS FOR ME<br /> +</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION_MY_LITHOGRAPHS_OF_THE_PANAMA_CANAL" + id="INTRODUCTION_MY_LITHOGRAPHS_OF_THE_PANAMA_CANAL"></a> + <span class="smaller">INTRODUCTION—MY LITHOGRAPHS OF THE PANAMA + CANAL</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THE idea of going to Panama to make lithographs of the Canal +was mine. I suggested it, and the <i>Century Magazine</i> and <i>Illustrated +London News</i> offered to print some of the drawings I might +make.</p> + +<p>Though I suggested the scheme a couple of years ago, it was not +until January, 1912, that I was able to go—and then I was afraid +it was too late—afraid the work was finished and that there would +be nothing to see, for photographs taken a year or eighteen months +before, showed some of the locks built and their gates partly in place.</p> + +<p>Still I started, and after nearly three weeks of voyaging found, +one January morning, the Isthmus of Panama ahead of the steamer, +a mountainous country, showing deep valleys filled with mist, like +snow fields, as I have often seen them from Montepulciano looking +over Lake Thrasymene, in Italy. Beyond were higher peaks, +strange yet familiar, Japanese prints, and as we came into the +harbor the near hills and distant mountains were silhouetted with +Japanese trees and even the houses were Japanese, and when we +at length landed, the town was full of character reminiscent of Spain, +yet the local character came out in the Cathedral, the tower of which—a +pyramid—was covered with a shimmering, glittering mosaic of +pearl oyster shells. The people, not Americans, were primitive, and +the children, mostly as in Spain, were not bothered with clothes.</p> + +<p>I followed my instinct, which took me at once to the great +swamp near the town of Mount Hope, where so many of De Lesseps' +plans lie buried. Here are locomotives, dredges, lock-gates, huge +bulks of iron, great wheels, nameless, shapeless masses—half under +water, half covered with vines—the end of a great work. I came +back to Colon by the side of the French Canal, completed and +working up to, I believe, Gatun Lock and Dam, and spent the afternoon +in the American town, every house Japanese in feeling, French +or American in construction, screened with black wire gauze, divided +by white wood lines—most decorative—and all shaded by a forest of +palms. Through these wandered well-made roads, and on them were +walking and driving well-made Americans. There were no mosquitoes, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +no flies, no smells, none of the usual adjuncts of a tropical town.</p> + +<p>At the end of the town was a monument, a nondescript +Columbus, facing nowhere, at his feet an Indian; but it seemed to +me, if any monument was wanted at Colon, it should be a great +light-house or a great statue towering aloft in the harbor, a memorial +to the men who, French and American, have made the Canal.</p> + +<p>Next day I started across the Continent to Panama, for I learned +the Government headquarters were there, and, until I had seen the +officials, I did not know if I should be allowed to work or even stay +on the Isthmus. But at Gatun I got off the train, determining to do +all I could before I was stopped—as I was quite sure I should be. I +saw the tops of the locks only a few hundred yards away, and, turning +my back on the stunning town piled up on the hillside, walked +over to them; from a bridge bearing a sign that all who used it did +so at their own risk I looked down into a yawning gulf stretching +to right and left, the bottom filled with crowds of tiny men and tiny +trains—all in a maze of work; to the right the gulf reached to a +lake, to the left to mighty gates which mounted from the bottom to +my feet. Overhead, huge iron buckets flew to and fro, great cranes +raised or lowered huge masses of material. As I looked, a bell rang, +the men dropped their tools, and lines of little figures marched away, +or climbed wooden stairs and iron ladders to the surface. The engines +whistled, the buckets paused, everything stopped instantly, save that +from the depths a long chain came quickly up, and clinging to the +end of it, as Cellini would have grouped them, were a dozen men—a +living design—the most decorative motive I have ever seen in the +Wonder of Work. I could not have imagined it, and in all the time +I was on the Isthmus I never saw it but once again. For a second +only they were posed, and then the huge crane swung the group to +ground and the design fell to pieces as they dropped off.</p> + +<p>Across the bridge was a telephone station and beyond and below +it the great approaches to the locks along which electric locomotives +will draw the ships that pass through. There was a subject, +and I tackled it at once. In the distance the already filling lake—among +islands, but the highland still above the water, dotting it, +crowned with palms and strange trees; dredgers slowly moved, native +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +canoes paddled rapidly, over all hovered great birds. To the right +was the long line of the French Canal, almost submerged, stretching +to the distance, against which, blue and misty and flat, were +strange-shaped mountains, outlined with strange-shaped trees. +Bridges like those of Hiroshigi connected island with island or with +the mainland. It was perfect, the apotheosis of the Wonder of Work, +and as I looked the whole rocked as with an earthquake—and then +another. I was dragged into the hut as showers of stones rattled +on the roof as blast after blast went off near by. Soon people in +authority came up—I supposed to stop me; instead it was only to show +pleasure that I found their work worth drawing. These men were all +Americans, all so proud of their part in the Canal, and so strong and +healthy—most of them trained and educated, I knew as soon as they +opened their mouths—the greatest contrast to the crowd on the +steamer, who now were all tamely following a guide and listening to +what they could neither understand nor see during their only day +ashore. These engineers and workmen are the sort of Americans +worth knowing, and yet I did not see any golf links at Gatun. The +day was spent in that telephone box and on the Spillway of the Dam—a +semicircle of cyclopean concrete, backed by a bridge finer than +Hokusai ever imagined, yet built to carry the huge engines that drag +the long trains of dirt and rock across it, to make the dam. The dam, +to me, was too big and too vague to draw. And all this is the work +of my countrymen, and they are so proud of their work. Yet the +men who have done this great work will tell you that we owe much +to the French, and that if the engineers and the Commission at +Panama had not the Government, with unlimited men and money, +behind them, and the discoveries in sanitary science of which the +French were ignorant, we, too, would have failed. They tell you, +and show you how, the French worked on the Canal right across the +Isthmus, and we are carrying out the great project they were unable +to complete. And we have won the admiration of the world.</p> + +<p>The sanitary problem is solved, but they tell you under the +French, fever carried off a man for every tie that was laid on the +Panama Railroad. This is a legend, but a true story is, that the +French cared so little for their lives that with every shipload of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +machinery came boxes of champagne, and those who received them +asked their friends to dinner—finished the bottles—and were buried +in the empty box in the morning. Now there is no fever in the +Canal Zone, but there is plenty of drink in and outside of it, but, I +am told, "indulged in with wonderful moderation." I certainly +never saw an American under the influence of it.</p> + +<p>In the evening a ride of two hours took me over the thirty +miles to Panama—one of the last passengers over the old line of the +Panama Railway, now buried under the waters of the growing lake. +From the railroad I saw for the first time the primeval forest, the +tropical jungle, which I had never believed in, never believed that it +could not be penetrated save with an axe or a machete; but it is so, +and the richness of it, the riot of it, the variety of it, is incredible and +endless. The train puffed along, in that time-taking fashion of the +tropics I should soon be familiar with, passing points of view I +made notes of, for first impressions are for me always the best, +and one trip like this gives me more ideas than days of personal +pointing out. Finally Panama was reached in the dark; all I saw +was a great hill lit up with rows of lights, one above the other, in +the night.</p> + +<p>The day had not been hot, the sky was not blue or black—it was +white, and filled with white clouds, though they were dark against it. +There was no glare—and I had forgotten my sketching umbrella; but +I never needed it. So far as I know, there is always a breeze—it is +never really hot in the day—and as soon as the sun sets the trade +wind rises—if it has not been blowing all day—and I could always +sleep at night. It is all so unlike other hot countries—but, then, +Panama is unlike other places: the sun rises and sets in the Pacific, +and the city of Panama, though on the Pacific, is east of Colon, on +the Atlantic.</p> + +<p>There was not a smell, or a mosquito, or a fly on Ancon Hill, +but over it all was the odor of petroleum, with which the streams +and marshes of the whole zone are sprayed almost daily; and this +has made the Canal and saved the workers.</p> + +<p>Next morning I went to the Administration Building and presented +my letters, though I did not know if I should be allowed to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +draw. But it seemed that everything had been arranged for me by +the Commission, who, it also seemed, had been doing nothing for +weeks but waiting my coming. I was clothed, fed, taken about in +motor cars and steam launches, given passes on the railroad, and +finally turned loose to go where I wanted and draw what I liked—and +if anything happened or did not happen I was just to telephone +to headquarters.</p> + +<p>The following day, donning my khaki, which I wore only once, +and pocketing my pass and some oranges, I started for the locks at +Pedro Miguel—pronounced, in American, Peter Megil, just as +Miraflores is called Millflowers. We were all down, had breakfast, +and off in the train—a jim-crow one—before the sun was up, and at +Pedro Miguel station I found myself one of a horde of niggers, Greeks, +Hindoos, Slovaks, Spaniards, Americans and engineers, bound for +the lock, half a mile away. Here I went down to the bottom to get +a drawing of the great walls that lead up to the great gates, now +nearly finished. I had come at exactly the right time. These walls +are surmounted with great arches and buttresses—the most decorative +subject, the most stupendous motive I have ever seen—almost +too great to draw. Unlike my experiences of a lifetime at +other Government works, I was asked for no permit. I was allowed +to go where I wanted, draw what I liked; when any attention was paid +to me, it was to ask what I was working for—give me a glass of ice +water—precious, out of the breeze at the bottom of a lock—offer to +get me a photograph or make one, to suggest points of view, or +tell me to clear out when a blast was to be fired. And the interest of +these Americans in my work and in their work was something I +had never seen before. A man in huge boots, overalls and ragged +shirt, an apology for a hat, his sleeves up to his shoulders, proved +himself in a minute a graduate of a great school of engineering, and +proved as well his understanding of the importance of the work I +was trying to do, and his regret that most painters could not see the +splendid motives all about; and the greatest compliment I ever received +came from one of these men, who told me my drawings +"would work."</p> + +<p>Day after day it was the same—everything, including government +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +hotels and labor trains, open to me. The only things to look out for +were the blasts, the slips of dirt in the cut, and the trains, which +rushed and switched about without any reference to those who might +get in front of them. If one got run over, as was not usual; or +blown up, which was unusual; or malaria, which few escaped +among the workmen, there were plenty of hospitals, lots of nurses +and sufficient doctors. Each railroad switch was attended by a little +darkey with a big flag; of one of whom it was said he was seen to be +asleep, with his head on the rails one day. The engineer of an +approaching dirt train actually pulled up, and he was kicked awake +and asked why he was taking a nap there. The boy replied he was +"'termined no train go by, boss, widout me knowin' it"; and of +another who, awaking suddenly and seeing half a train past his +switch, pulled it open and wrecked all the trains, tracks and switches +within a quarter of a mile; or the third, a Jamaican, a new hand, +who, being told he was not to let a train go by, promptly signalled +a locomotive to come on, and when he was hauled up, smilingly said: +"Dat wan't no train wat yer tole me to stop; dat's a enjine."</p> + +<p>Drawing had other interesting episodes connected with it, as +when I sat at work in Culebra Cut the leading man of a file of niggers, +carrying on his head a wooden box, would approach, stop beside +me and look at the drawing. As I happened to look up I would notice +the box was labelled, <i>Explosives, Highly dangerous</i>. Then, with his +hands in his pockets, he and the rest of the gang would stumble along +over the half-laid ties, slippery boulders and through the mud, trying +to avoid the endless trains and balance the boxes on their heads at the +same time. I must say, when I read the legend on the box the sensation +was peculiar. They tell you, too, that when President Taft +came down to the Cut all dynamiting gangs were ordered out; but +one gang of blacks was forgotten, and as the train with the President +and Colonel Goethals in it passed, the leader cheered so hard that he +dropped his box, which somehow didn't go off. It was interesting, +too, when one had been working steadily for some time, to find oneself +surrounded, on getting up, by little flags, to announce that the +whole place had been mined and should not be approached; or to +find oneself entangled in a network of live wires ready to touch off +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +the blasts from hundreds of yards away, and to remember that I was +behind a boulder about to be blown to pieces, and might be overlooked; +or to be told I had better get out, as they were ready to blast, +after a white man had got done chucking from one rock, to a black +man on another, sticks of melanite, as the easiest way of getting them +to him; or ramming in, with long poles, charges so big that trains, steam +shovels and tracks had to be moved to keep them from being "shot +up." I always kept out of the way as far as possible after the +day at Bas Obispo when, standing some hundreds of yards from +a blast watching the effect of showers of rocks falling like shells in +the river, I heard wild yells, and, looking up, saw a rock as big as a +foot-ball sailing toward me. I have heard one can see shells coming +and dodge them. I know now that this is so, though I had to drop +everything and roll to do it. But I don't like it; and accidents do +happen, and there are hospitals all across the Isthmus with men, to +whom accidents have happened, in them. But nothing happened +to me. I did not get malaria or fever, or bitten or run over. I was +very well all the time—and I walked in the sun and worked in the +sun, and sat in the swamps and the bottoms of locks and at the edge +of the dam, and nothing but drawings happened; but I should not +advise others to try these things, nor to get too near steam shovels, +which "pick up anything, from an elephant to a red-bug," but sometimes +drop a ton rock; nor play around near track-lifters and dirt-train +emptiers—for the things are small respecters of persons. But +most people do not get hurt, and I never met anyone who wanted +to leave; and I believe the threat to send the men home broke the +only strike on the Canal.</p> + +<p>I did not go to Panama to study engineering—which I know +nothing about; or social problems—which I had not time to master; +or Central American politics—which we are in for; but to draw the +Canal as it is, and the drawings are done.</p> + +<p>I was there at the psychological moment, and am glad I went. +It is not my business to answer the question: When will the Canal +be opened?—though they say it will be open within a year.</p> + +<p>Will the dam stand? Those who have built it say so.</p> + +<p>Which is better, a sea level or a lock? The lock canal is built.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> + +<p>I did not bother myself about these things, nor about lengths +and breadths and heights and depths. I went to see and draw the +Canal, and during all the time I was there I was afforded every +facility for seeing the construction of the Panama Canal, and from +my point of view it is the most wonderful thing in the world; and I +have tried to express this in my drawings at the moment before it +was opened, for when it is opened, and the water turned in, half +the amazing masses of masonry will be beneath the waters on one +side and filled in with earth on the other, and the picturesqueness will +have vanished. The Culebra Cut will be finer, and from great +steamers passing through the gorge, worth going 15,000 miles, as I +have done, to see. But I saw it at the right time, and have tried to +show what I saw. And it is American—the work of my countrymen.</p> + +<p class="ar"> +<span class="sc">Joseph Pennell</span><br /> +</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<div class="chapter"></div> +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<p><span class="sc">The Illustrations begin with Colon and proceed in +regular sequence across the Isthmus to Panama.</span></p> + +<table id="ILLUSTRATIONS" summary="ILLUSTRATIONS"> + <tr> + <td class="c1">I</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#I_COLON_THE_AMERICAN_QUARTER"> + Colon: The American Quarter</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">II</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#II_MOUNT_HOPE">Mount Hope</a> + </span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">III</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#III_GATUN_DINNER_TIME"> + Gatun: Dinner Time</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">IV</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#IV_AT_THE_BOTTOM_OF_GATUN_LOCK"> + At the Bottom of Gatun Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">V</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#V_THE_GUARD_GATE_GATUN"> + The Guard Gate, Gatun</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">VI</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#VI_APPROACHES_TO_GATUN_LOCK"> + Approaches to Gatun Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">VII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#VII_END_OF_THE_DAY_GATUN_LOCK"> + End of the Day: Gatun Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">VIII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"> + <a href="#VIII_THE_JUNGLE">The Jungle: The Old Railroad from the New + </a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">IX</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#IX_THE_NATIVE_VILLAGE"> + The Native Village</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">X</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#X_THE_AMERICAN_VILLAGE"> + The American Village</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XI</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XI_THE_CUT_AT_BAS_OBISPO"> + The Cut at Bas Obispo</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XII_IN_THE_CUT_AT_LAS_CASCADAS"> + In the Cut at Las Cascadas</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XIII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XIII_THE_CUT_FROM_CULEBRA"> + The Cut from Culebra</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XIV</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"> + <a href="#XIV_STEAM_SHOVEL_AT_WORK_IN_THE_CULEBRA_CUT"> + Steam Shovel at Work in the Culebra Cut</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XV</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XV_THE_CUT_LOOKING_TOWARD_CULEBRA"> + The Cut: Looking Toward Culebra</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XVI</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XVI_THE_CUT_AT_PARAISO"> + The Cut at Paraiso</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XVII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XVII_THE_CUT_LOOKING_TOWARD_ANCON_HILL"> + The Cut Looking Toward Ancon Hill</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XVIII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"> + <a href="#XVIII_LAYING_THE_FLOOR_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL_LOCK"> + Laying the Floor of Pedro Miguel Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XIX</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XIX_THE_GATES_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL"> + The Gates of Pedro Miguel</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XX</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XX_THE_WALLS_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL"> + The Walls of Pedro Miguel</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXI</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXI_BUILDING_MIRAFLORES_LOCK"> + Building Miraflores Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXII_CRANES_MIRAFLORES_LOCK"> + Cranes: Miraflores Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXIII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXIII_WALLS_OF_MIRAFLORES_LOCK"> + Walls of Miraflores Lock</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXIV</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXIV_OFFICIAL_ANCON"> + Official Ancon</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXV</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXV_FROM_ANCON_HILL"> + From Ancon Hill</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXVI</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXVI_THE_CATHEDRAL_PANAMA"> + The Cathedral, Panama</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXVII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"> +<a href="#XXVII_THE_CITY_OF_PANAMA">The City of Panama from the Tivoli + Hotel, Ancon</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="c1">XXVIII</td> + <td class="c2"><span class="sc"><a href="#XXVIII_THE_MOUTH_OF_THE_CANAL"> + The Mouth of the Canal from the Sea</a></span></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<h2><a name="I_COLON_THE_AMERICAN_QUARTER" id="I_COLON_THE_AMERICAN_QUARTER"></a> + <span class="smaller">I<br /> COLON: THE AMERICAN QUARTER</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THE city of Colon is divided into two quarters—the +native, or Panamanian, and the American. The former +is picturesque, but has nothing to do with the Canal and is +some distance from it. The Canal cannot be seen from the +city. The American quarter, in which the Canal employees +live, stands on the sea shore, and is made up of bungalows, +shops, hotels, hospitals—all that goes to make up a city—save +saloons. All are built of wood, painted white, and completely +screened with wire gauze, rusted black by the dampness, +a protection from mosquitoes and other beasts, bugs +and vermin. Raised on concrete supports mostly with long, +gently sloping roofs, and buried in a forest of palms, the +town, the first the visitor will see, seems absolutely Japanese, +is very pictorial and full of character. The design, +I believe, of the houses was made by the American engineers +or architects.</p> + +<p>Very few of the higher Canal officers live at Colon, which +is the Atlantic seaport of the Isthmus, the eastern mouth +of the Canal, though Colon is west of Panama—such is the +geography of the country.</p> + +<p>The mouth of the Canal will be fortified; breakwaters +and light-houses are being built.</p> + +<p>For authorities on fortification it may be interesting to +state that the forts will be so situated that the locks will be +completely out of range of an enemy's guns. Personally I +am not a believer in wars or navies. If my theories were +practised there would be no need for fortifications.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i019.jpg" id="i019.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i019.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<h2><a name="II_MOUNT_HOPE" id="II_MOUNT_HOPE"></a> + <span class="smaller">II<br /> MOUNT HOPE</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_n.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">NEAR Mount Hope, which—for the French—should be +called the Slough of Despond, or the Lake of Despair, +is a huge swamp about a mile or so from Colon, on the left +bank of the French Canal, seen on the right of the lithograph. +This swamp is now filled with all sorts of abandoned +French machinery. Dredges, locomotives, and even +what seem to be lock gates, show amid the palms in the +distance. Huge American cranes for raising this French +material—which the American engineers have made use +of—and discharging cargo from the ships in the French +Canal—which is here finished and in use—loom over the +swamp, the banks of which are lined with piers and +workshops full of life—a curious contrast to the dead swamp +in which not a mosquito lives, nor a smell breathes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i023.jpg" id="i023.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i023.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + +<h2><a name="III_GATUN_DINNER_TIME" id="III_GATUN_DINNER_TIME"></a> + <span class="smaller">III<br /> GATUN: DINNER TIME</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_b.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">BETWEEN Mount Hope and Gatun is much more of +the swamp and much more abandoned machinery, but +the Canal is not to be seen from the railroad, or any evidence +of it, till the train stops at the station of Old Gatun, with +its workmen's dwellings crowning the hillside. I regret I +made no drawing of these, so picturesquely perched. At +the station of Gatun—the first time I stopped—I saw the +workmen—in decorative fashion—coming to the surface +for dinner. The lithograph was made from a temporary +bridge spanning the locks and looking toward Colon. The +great machines on each side of the locks are for mixing +and carrying to their place, in huge buckets, the cement +and concrete, of which the locks are built. The French +Canal is in the extreme distance, now used by our engineers.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i027.jpg" id="i027.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i027.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="IV_AT_THE_BOTTOM_OF_GATUN_LOCK" + id="IV_AT_THE_BOTTOM_OF_GATUN_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">IV<br /> AT THE BOTTOM OF GATUN LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THERE is a flight of three double locks at Gatun by which +ships will be raised eighty-five feet to the level of Gatun +Lake. From the gates of the upper lock—the nearest to +the Pacific—they will sail across the now-forming lake +some miles (about twenty, I believe) to the Culebra Cut; +through this, nine miles long, they will pass, and then descend +by three other flights of locks, at Pedro Miguel and +Miraflores, to the Pacific, which is twenty feet higher, I believe, +than the Atlantic. The great height, eighty-five feet, +was agreed upon so as to save excavation in the Cut and +time in completion—one of those magnificent labor-saving +devices of the moment—which I, not being an engineer, see +no necessity for—having waited four hundred years for the +Canal, we might, as an outsider, it seems to me, have +waited four more years and got rid of a number of the locks, +even if it cost more money.</p> + +<p>The lithograph made in the middle lock shows the gates +towering on either side. These gates were covered, when +I made the drawing, with their armor plates. The lower +parts, I was told, are to be filled with air, and the gates, +worked by electricity, will virtually float. The scaffolding is +only temporary, and so is the opening at the bottom and the +railroad tracks, which were filled up and discarded while I +was there. So huge are the locks—the three, I think, a mile +long, each one thousand feet between the gates, and about +ninety feet deep—that, until the men knock off, there scarce +seems anyone around.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i031.jpg" id="i031.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i031.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="V_THE_GUARD_GATE_GATUN" id="V_THE_GUARD_GATE_GATUN"></a> + <span class="smaller">V<br /> THE GUARD GATE, GATUN</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THERE is a safety gate in each lock, to protect, in case +of accident, the main lock gate, just suggested, with +the figures working at the armor-plate facing, on the extreme +right. Beyond are the outer walls and approaches +of the upper lock, and beyond these, but unseen, the lake. +At the bottom is the railroad and the temporary opening +shown in the previous drawing. The scale, the immensity +of the whole may be judged by the size of the engines and +figures. I have never seen such a magnificent arrangement +of line, light and mass, and yet those were the last things +the engineers thought of. But great work is great art, and +always was and will be. This is the Wonder of Work.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i035.jpg" id="i035.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i035.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="VI_APPROACHES_TO_GATUN_LOCK" id="VI_APPROACHES_TO_GATUN_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">VI<br /> APPROACHES TO GATUN LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THESE huge arches, only made as arches to save concrete +and to break the waves of the lake, are mightier +than any Roman aqueduct, and more pictorial, yet soon they +will be hidden almost to the top by the waters of the lake. +Electric locomotives will run out to the farthest point, and +from it, tow the ships into the lock. Beyond is Gatun Lake, +and to the right the lines of the French Canal and Chagres +River stretch to the horizon. Even while I was on the +Isthmus the river and canal disappeared forever before the +waters of the rapidly rising flood. All evidence of the +French work beyond Gatun has vanished under water. I +did not draw the Dam or the Spillway simply because I +could not find a subject to draw, or could not draw it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i039.jpg" id="i039.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i039.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="VII_END_OF_THE_DAY_GATUN_LOCK" + id="VII_END_OF_THE_DAY_GATUN_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">VII<br /> END OF THE DAY—GATUN LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS was another subject I saw as the men stopped +work in the evening. On the left is the stairway which +most of them use, and on both sides are iron ladders which +a few climb. The semicircular openings are for mooring +the ships.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i043.jpg" id="i043.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i043.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="VIII_THE_JUNGLE" id="VIII_THE_JUNGLE"></a> + <span class="smaller">VIII<br /> THE JUNGLE<br /> + THE OLD RAILROAD FROM THE NEW</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_w.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">WHILE I was on the Isthmus the old line from Gatun +to the Culebra Cut at Bas Obispo was abandoned, +owing to the rising waters of the lake, which will soon cover +towns, and swamps, and hills, and forests. This drawing +was made looking across the lake near Gatun, with the +dam in the distance, and I have tried to show the rich riot +of the jungle. Below, on the old road, is a steam shovel +digging dirt. The little islands, charming in line, are little +hills still showing above the waters of the forming lake.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i047.jpg" id="i047.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i047.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + +<h2><a name="IX_THE_NATIVE_VILLAGE" id="IX_THE_NATIVE_VILLAGE"></a> + <span class="smaller">IX<br /> THE NATIVE VILLAGE</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS lithograph was made on the new line, which discovered +to the visitor primitive Panama, its swamps, +jungles and native villages; but, owing to Colonel Gorgas, +native no longer, as they are odorless and clean; but the +natives, with their transformation, seem to prefer to the palm-leaf +roof, corrugated iron and tin, and abandoned freight +cars to live in. The huts are mostly built on piles near the +rivers. In the background can be seen the strange-shaped +mountains and strange-shaped trees. The white tree—I +don't know its name—with the bushy top has no bark, +and is not dead, but puts out leaves, Mrs. Colonel Gaillard +tells me, in summer; and she also tells me the jungle is full +of the most wonderful orchids, birds, snakes, monkeys and +natives, and offered to take me to see them. I saw her +splendid collection of orchids at Culebra, through the +luxuriance of which Colonel Gaillard says he has to hew his +way with a machete every morning to breakfast, so fast do +plants grow on the Isthmus. Advantage of this rapidity of +jungle growth has been taken to bind together the completed +parts of the surface of the dam, which are covered +with so much vegetation that I could not tell Nature's work +from that of the engineers.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i051.jpg" id="i051.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i051.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="X_THE_AMERICAN_VILLAGE" id="X_THE_AMERICAN_VILLAGE"></a> + <span class="smaller">X<br /> THE AMERICAN VILLAGE</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THESE are scattered all across the Continent, hemmed in +by the tropical jungle or placed on the high, cool +hill. In all there is, first, the news-stand at the station; +then, the hotel—really restaurants—where on one side the +Americans "gold employees" dine for thirty cents, better than +they could for a dollar at home—and more decently; men, +women and children. On the other, in a separate building, +usually, the "silver employees" foreigners; and there are +separate dining and sleeping places and cars for negroes, +even on workmen's trains. The Indian has the sense +and pride to live his own life down there, apart, as at +home in India. There are many in the Zone.</p> + +<p>The head men in each of these towns have their own +houses; the lesser lights share double ones; and I believe +the least of all, bunks; but these matters didn't interest +me, nor did sanitary conditions or social evils or advantages.</p> + +<p>There are also clubs, I believe, social centres, mothers' +meetings, churches, art galleries and museums on the +Isthmus, but I never saw them. I was after picturesqueness. +Still, it is no wonder, under present conditions, that I +never found a man who wanted to "go home"—and some +hadn't been home for seven years, and dreaded going—and +rightly. The Canal Zone is the best governed section +of the United States.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i055.jpg" id="i055.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i055.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XI_THE_CUT_AT_BAS_OBISPO" id="XI_THE_CUT_AT_BAS_OBISPO"></a> + <span class="smaller">XI<br /> THE CUT AT BAS OBISPO</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THE Culebra Cut commences near Bas Obispo—from +this place—where the Chagres River enters Gatun Lake, +the cut extends for nine miles, to Pedro Miguel. All between +here and Gatun will be under water. The drawing +was made at the bottom of the cut, and the various levels +on which the excavations are made may be seen. The dirt +trains, one above the other, are loading up from the steam +shovels on each side of the old river bed in the centre. The +machinery for shifting tracks and unloading trains is wonderful, +but not very picturesque.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i059.jpg" id="i059.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i059.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XII_IN_THE_CUT_AT_LAS_CASCADAS" + id="XII_IN_THE_CUT_AT_LAS_CASCADAS"></a> + <span class="smaller">XII<br /> IN THE CUT AT LAS CASCADAS</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS drawing shows the cut and gives from above some +idea of the different levels on which the work is carried +out. It is on some of these levels that slides have occurred +and wrecked the work. The slides move slowly, not like +avalanches, but have caused endless complications; but +Colonel Gaillard, the engineer in charge, believes he will +triumph over all his difficulties—which include even a small +volcano—there is a newspaper story—but no earthquakes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i063.jpg" id="i063.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i063.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XIII_THE_CUT_FROM_CULEBRA" id="XIII_THE_CUT_FROM_CULEBRA"></a> + <span class="smaller">XIII<br /> THE CUT FROM CULEBRA</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_a.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">AT this point the cut is far the deepest at the continental +divide, and here the French did their greatest work, and +here this is recorded by the United States on a placque high +up on the left-hand bare mountain face of Gold Hill. The +drawing was made looking towards Pedro Miguel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i067.jpg" id="i067.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i067.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XIV_STEAM_SHOVEL_AT_WORK_IN_THE_CULEBRA_CUT" + id="XIV_STEAM_SHOVEL_AT_WORK_IN_THE_CULEBRA_CUT"></a> + <span class="smaller">XIV<br /> STEAM SHOVEL AT WORK IN THE CULEBRA CUT</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS beast, as they say down there, "can pick up +anything from an elephant to a red-bug"—the smallest +thing on the Isthmus. They also say the shovel "would +look just like Teddy if it only had glasses." It does the +work of digging the Canal and filling the trains, and does it +amazingly—under the amazing direction of its amazing +crews.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i071.jpg" id="i071.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i071.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XV_THE_CUT_LOOKING_TOWARD_CULEBRA" + id="XV_THE_CUT_LOOKING_TOWARD_CULEBRA"></a> + <span class="smaller">XV<br /> THE CUT—LOOKING TOWARD CULEBRA</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS is the most pictorial as well as the most profound +part of the cut. Culebra, the town, is high above—some +of it has fallen in—on the edge in the distance—on +the left. The white tower is an observatory from near which +the lithograph No. XIII of the cut was made. The drawing +is looking toward the Atlantic. The engineer of the dirt +train—the smoke of which is so black because the engines +burn oil—climbed up to see what I was at, and incidentally +told me he was paid $3,600 a year, had a house free and two +months' holiday. It is scarcely wonderful he has little interest +in home, but the greatest pride in "our canal," and +his only hope was to be "kept on the job" and run an +electric locomotive for the rest of his life.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i075.jpg" id="i075.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i075.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XVI_THE_CUT_AT_PARAISO" id="XVI_THE_CUT_AT_PARAISO"></a> + <span class="smaller">XVI<br /> THE CUT AT PARAISO</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_a.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">AT this point the old railroad crosses the Canal bed, and +there is a splendid view in both directions. This is +looking toward the same mountains as in the previous +drawing, early in the morning. The mountains are covered +with long lines of mist, under which nestles the American-Japanese +town of Paraiso. The new line of railroad never +crosses the Canal, but passes behind the mountain on the +right. The scheme of having it follow the Canal through +Culebra Cut has been abandoned, owing to the slides.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i079.jpg" id="i079.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i079.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XVII_THE_CUT_LOOKING_TOWARD_ANCON_HILL" + id="XVII_THE_CUT_LOOKING_TOWARD_ANCON_HILL"></a> + <span class="smaller">XVII<br /> THE CUT LOOKING TOWARD ANCON HILL</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS is the view toward the Pacific from the same spot in +the full stress of work. The Pedro Miguel locks are +in the distance, beyond is Ancon Hill, dominating Panama, +miles farther on; and to the right, between the hills, but +miles still farther, beyond Miraflores lock, the Pacific.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i083.jpg" id="i083.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i083.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XVIII_LAYING_THE_FLOOR_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL_LOCK" + id="XVIII_LAYING_THE_FLOOR_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">XVIII<br /> LAYING THE FLOOR OF PEDRO MIGUEL LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS is the most monumental piece of work on the Canal, +and the most pictorial. The huge approaches, quite +different in form from Gatun—for all the locks have character, +and the character of their builders—are only arches +to save concrete. Here were men enough laying the concrete +floor—others swarming over the gates not yet covered +with their armor plate. Beyond is the lock just shown between +the gates.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i087.jpg" id="i087.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i087.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XIX_THE_GATES_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL" + id="XIX_THE_GATES_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL"></a> + <span class="smaller">XIX<br /> THE GATES OF PEDRO MIGUEL</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS is the same lock nearer the gates, and shows the +great length of it from gate to gate and something of its +building and construction, from my point of view.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i091.jpg" id="i091.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i091.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XX_THE_WALLS_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL" + id="XX_THE_WALLS_OF_PEDRO_MIGUEL"></a> + <span class="smaller">XX<br /> THE WALLS OF PEDRO MIGUEL</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS was drawn from the opposite end of the lock and +the great side walls topped with their concrete-making +crenellations and cranes are seen. In the foreground, on +the left, is one of the side openings for emptying the water +from one lock to another—for all the locks are double, side +by side, and ships will not have to wait until a lock is empty, +as is usual, before they can enter, but, as one empties, the +same water partly fills the one beside it, and so steamers will +pass without waiting. Two or three small vessels can go +through at the same time, as well as the largest with room +to spare.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i095.jpg" id="i095.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i095.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXI_BUILDING_MIRAFLORES_LOCK" + id="XXI_BUILDING_MIRAFLORES_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXI<br /> BUILDING MIRAFLORES LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS lock, the nearest the Pacific, is again quite different +and is the work of a civil engineer, Mr. Williamson, +and not of army officers, like the rest. Between the two +forces, I believe, the most fierce harmony exists. The drawing +shows the two locks side by side, the great cranes—they +are different, too—towering above. All the ground here +will be filled by a small lake between this lock and Pedro +Miguel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i099.jpg" id="i099.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i099.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXII_CRANES_MIRAFLORES_LOCK" id="XXII_CRANES_MIRAFLORES_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXII<br /> CRANES—MIRAFLORES LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THESE great cranes travel to and fro, and as I drew the +nearest I found the lines changing, but thought there +was something wrong with me. So huge were they, and so +silently and solemnly did they move, that I could not believe +they were moving. This is the Pacific end of the lock—the +last on the Canal.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i103.jpg" id="i103.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i103.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXIII_WALLS_OF_MIRAFLORES_LOCK" + id="XXIII_WALLS_OF_MIRAFLORES_LOCK"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXIII<br /> WALLS OF MIRAFLORES LOCK</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THE only wall in March of the approach to Miraflores +may be contrasted with the similar subject No. XX—Pedro +Miguel.</p> + +<p>Much as there was to be done in March, the engineer, +Mr. Williamson, had no doubt it would be finished this +fall; for as fast as the other locks were completed, men +and machines were to be put on this.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i107.jpg" id="i107.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i107.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXIV_OFFICIAL_ANCON" id="XXIV_OFFICIAL_ANCON"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXIV<br /> OFFICIAL ANCON</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_a.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">AMID these royal palm groves work and live many of the +members of the Isthmian Canal Commission—the rest +are on the high hill at Culebra. To the secretary, Mr. J. B. +Bishop, and to his family, I am endlessly indebted for endless +help while on the Zone.</p> + +<p>Ancon is a perfect Japanese town—built by Americans—and +the interiors of the houses here and at Culebra are +as delightful as their owners are charming—and I know of +what I speak. The large building against the ocean is the +Administration Office of the Isthmian Canal Commission.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i111.jpg" id="i111.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i111.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXV_FROM_ANCON_HILL" id="XXV_FROM_ANCON_HILL"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXV<br /> FROM ANCON HILL</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_a.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">A ROAD winds up Ancon Hill, passing the official residences +and the hospitals, finally reaching a terrace +bordered with royal palms. Below to the left is the Tivoli +Hotel, and still lower and farther away, the city, while the +Pacific fills the distance. This is the most beautiful spot I +saw on the Isthmus.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i115.jpg" id="i115.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i115.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXVI_THE_CATHEDRAL_PANAMA" id="XXVI_THE_CATHEDRAL_PANAMA"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXVI<br /> THE CATHEDRAL, PANAMA</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THE Cathedral, one of a number of churches in the city +of Panama, stands in a large square. The feeling of all +these, with their richly decorated façades and long, unbroken +side walls, is absolutely Spanish—but the interiors are far +more bare—much more like Italian churches.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i119.jpg" id="i119.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i119.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXVII_THE_CITY_OF_PANAMA" id="XXVII_THE_CITY_OF_PANAMA"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXVII<br /> + THE CITY OF PANAMA FROM THE TIVOLI HOTEL, ANCON</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_f.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">FROM the wing of the Government hotel in which I +stayed I looked out over the city of Panama to the Pacific. +If this city were in Spain, or if even a decent description +of it were in a European guide-book, the hordes of Americans +who go to the Canal would rave over it. As it is, not +many of them (not being told) ever see it, though there +are few towns in Europe with more character. But I +regret to say my countrymen don't know what they are +looking at, or what to look at, till they have a guide-book, +courier or tout to tell them. The Government provides, +I am told, a Harvard graduate to perform the latter +function, and sends out daily an observation car across the +Continent.</p> + +<p>The two strange, flat-topped mountains, miles out at sea, +are to be fortified, and they are so far from shore, and +the locks so far inland, as to be out of range—as well as out +of sight—of modern guns and gunners.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i123.jpg" id="i123.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i123.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="XXVIII_THE_MOUTH_OF_THE_CANAL" id="XXVIII_THE_MOUTH_OF_THE_CANAL"></a> + <span class="smaller">XXVIII<br /> THE MOUTH OF THE CANAL FROM THE SEA</span></h2> + +<div> + <img class="drop-cap" src="images/initial_t.jpg" alt="" /> +</div> +<p class="drop-cap">THIS drawing was made from the channel which leads +out to the Pacific Ocean. The mouth of the Canal is +on the left in the flat space between the mountains; on the +right of this, the dark mass on the edge of the water is the +docks and harbors; then comes the great, towering Ancon +Hill, one side all dug out in terraces for dirt, much of which +goes to fill in the outside of locks, which, however, will work +before they are filled in. And for what other purposes the +War Department are going to use this Gibraltar they alone +know. The other side, a mass of palms shelters the houses +of the officials, and at the foot of the hill, to the right, Panama—as +beautiful as Naples or Tangier, yet hardly a tourist +knows it; and—well, the Government is not running a tourist +agency.</p> + +<p>The breakwater, which will connect the fortified islands +miles away with the mainland, is just started in the centre. +This is the first and last view of Panama—and of the greatest +work of modern times, the work of the greatest engineers +of all time.</p> + +<p class="ar"> +<span class="sc">Joseph Pennell</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i127.jpg" id="i127.jpg"></a> + <img src="images/i127.jpg" + alt="" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + +<div class="bbox"> +<p class="ac larger">Life of James +McNeill Whistler</p> + +<p class="ac"><span class="sc">By Elizabeth R. and Joseph Pennell</span></p> + +<hr class="ad" /> + +<p>The Pennells have thoroughly +revised the material in their +Authorized Life and added much +new matter, which for lack of +space they were unable to incorporate +in the elaborate two-volume +edition now out of +print. Fully illustrated with +96 plates reproduced from +Whistler's works, more than half +reproduced for first time.</p> + +<hr class="ad" /> + +<div class="ac"> +<span class="smaller">Crown 8vo., fifth and revised edition.<br /> +Whistler binding, deckle edge.<br /> +$3.50 net.</span></div> +<div class="ac xx-smaller">Three quarters grain levant, $7.50 net.</div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<div class="chapter"></div> +<div class="transnote"> + +<h3>Transcriber's Note:</h3> + + <ul> + <li>Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note.</li> +<li>Duplicated section headings have been omitted.</li> + </ul> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Joseph Pennell's pictures of the +Panama Canal, by Joseph Pennell + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOSEPH PENNELL'S PICTURES OF THE PANAMA CANAL *** + +***** This file should be named 48924-h.htm or 48924-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/8/9/2/48924/ + +Produced by Christian Boissonnas and The Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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